1 eClean Magazine

TMGet expert help finding the parts you need.

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Inlet Manifold 3/4”FGH SWV / 1/2”MPTThis allows a destination for the water when you release the spray gun.

Synfilm 68 Royal Purple OilThis proprietary film increases the oil film’s thickness, and the oil film’s tough-ness, both of which help to prevent metal-to-metal contact.

High Limit Switch ½”MPT

Pop Off ValveThis valve is a artificial weak point designed to fail if pressure reaches dangerous levels.

6,000 PSI / 6 GPM

Pressure Washers | Surface Cleaners | Chemicals | Cleaning Supplies | Parts | Pumps & Unloaders | Training

MOD-534 $18.00

1 Gal. SYNFILM68-1G $65.00

Thermoshield Relief ValveInstall this on the head of your pump to keep it from overheating when it is in bypass mode. TSF-514 1/4in $7.99

TSF-538 3/8in $7.99TSF-512 1/2in $7.99

RINLET-11 $11.00

Flow SwitchesPSI 4000 PSI 4500 PSI Temp 176 F 257 FGPM 1 Min./8 Max 1 Min/8 MaxType Vertical Horizontal/VerticalIn/Out 3/8” FNPT 3/8” FNPTVolts 250 250Amps 3 3Cord 47” 47”

ST-5 $35.00 ST-6 $35.00

130°F HLS-101-130 $31.00230°F HLS-101-230 $31.00330°F HLS-101-330 $31.00

Burner Motors079021, 12v Beckett $289.00079613, 12v Beckett $129.00079021, 12v Wayne $159.00079025, 110v/220v $199.00

Racor Fuel Water Separator10 micron filtrationSpin-on convenience1/4” FPT inlet/outletEasy drain sediment bowl

FF1140 $49.00

AC/DC Digital Hour MeterMeasure and record over time the electric power flowing through a circuit. Also features maintenance alerts at 25 or 50 hours.

03-291020 $24.00

Honda GX690 V-Twin 688cc Gas EngineBore x Stroke: 78 X 72 mmDisplacement: 688 cm3Net Power Output: 22.1 hp (16.5 kW) @ 3,600 rpmNet Torque: 35.6 lb-ft (48.3 Nm) @ 2,500 rpmPTO Shaft Rotation: Counter Clockwise (from PTO shaft side)Carburetor: Butterfly Hori-zontal type, two barrel butterfly valve, internal ventStarting System: ElectricLubrication System: Forced lubricationOil Capacity: 2.1 US qt (2.0l)Fuel: Unleaded 86 octane or higherApproximate Weight: 96.8 lbs.

Honda / Briggs & Stratton Mufflers Honda / Briggs & Stratton Oil Filters

15400-PLM-305PE $11.59BS-491056 $8.99BS-492932S $10.59

Briggs & Stratton Alternator15 or 20 AMP

BS-696458 $59.00BS-696579 $64.00

Honda / Briggs & Stratton Air Filters

Honda / Briggs & Stratton Spark Plugs

BS-491055S $4.00BS-796112S $4.00BS-802592S $4.00

FN-175-80B $6.95FN-200-80B $6.95

Atomizing Fuel Burner NozzlesThese nozzles mix fuel and air to turn the fuel into a combustible mist. Designed and dimensioned to deliver a fixed amount of atomized fuel to the combustion chamber within approxi-mately plus or minus 5% of rated capac-ity. They deliver the atomized fuel to the combustion chamber in a uniform spray pattern and spray angle best suited to the requirements of a specific burner.

Power Washer Maintenance SeminarIn this fast paced, half day workshop you will learn how to repair, rebuild and maintain

Power washer pumpsburner systemsElectric and gas motor/engines

Once you begin to repair and maintain your equipment, this class will pay for itself.

“The class was very educational...I have learned so much watching Larry’s videos. Now that I was able to learn from him in person, ask questions and receive such thorough answers, it really put everything into prospective. Larry Hinckley is wonderful and full of knowledge that will get any one far in this industry!”

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Briggs & Stratton Fuel Filter

BS-394358S $4.00BS-691035 $6.99

Click the links for more information

3 eClean Magazine

5

In This Issue:5 A Monthly Checklist to Keep Your Equipment Running

14 Is Your Pressure Washing Business Prepared for the Worst?, by Clyde Hemminger, PowerWash. com

16 PWNA Vendor Profile: Steamericas

18 Registration Opens for 2014 PWNA Convention & Trade Show: Save $75 thru July 31

21 What to Do When Your Pressure Washer Won’t Start, by Paul Horsley

22 Nozzling the Power Washer: How It Works, Why It’s Important, by Pete Beckers, Cleaned by Pete

25 Joseph D. Walters Insurance Announces Power Wash Program Change in California and Texas

26 Cleaning Concrete: Why It’s More Complicated Than You Might Realize, by Len Sutton, Sea to Summit Pressure Washing & Window Cleaning

30 Sales for the Cleaning Agent, by Rick Meehan, Marko Janitorial

32 Extending the Life of Your Plastic Waterfed Pole, by J. Racenstein

34 Annual Maintenance for Pressure Washers, by

Paul Horsley

eClean Magazine is published monthly Publisher: Paul Horsley, paul@ecleanmag.comEditor: Allison Hester, allison@ecleanmag.comSales: Charlie Arnold, charlie@ecleanmag.com

www.eCleanMag.com Issue #25

Box 262, 16 Midlake Blvd S.E. Calgary, Alberta Canada T2X2X7 www.eCleanMag.com

22

EDDM

5 eClean Magazine

Things happen, and pressure washing equipment breaks down – especially for professional cleaning

contractors who put hard hours on their equipment each and every week.

That said, there are things you can do to help keep your equipment running as long and as well as possible. That means keeping your equipment inspected and maintained on schedule.

For this article, we are going to cover an in-depth equipment check that should be performed at least monthly, or after a particularly heavy period of use, or if the equipment was used in an unusually harsh environment.

This is particularly important when you have technicians, besides yourself, who work with your equipment. The more technicians you have, the more likely you’ll run into problems.

Keeping your equipment properly maintained and providing adequate pressure, flow and temperature means fewer hands tinkering with the adjustments in the field. (Not to mention less down time.) Equipment checks also help reduce accidents.

A Monthly Checklist to Keep Your Equipment Running

“Good Planning Always Costs

Less Than Good Reacting”

– Wayne Schmidt

Step 1: Create a Maintenance Report Form and a Maintenance Checklist

This will help you document your equipment checkups, keep track of any problems that need to be fixed, and keep you on schedule. We have provided an example checklist in this article, but you can come up with your own system. Keep your records in a safe place where you won’t spill anything on it.

Step 2: Clean Your EquipmentWorking with a clean machine will make all aspects of your components

easier to see, and help you detect any leaks.

Step 3: Walk through each system step by step.This article provides the basics of what you need to inspect. You should

come up with your own system, however, and you don’t have to follow the order of this guide.

7 eClean Magazine

The Equipment Check

1. Check your water supply. (System should be OFF)

• Make sure your water supply is clean and adequate.

• Check all inlet or inline water filters for debris.

• If you are using a float tank, allow the float tank to fill up and see if the float valve shuts off the water supply to the unit when the proper water level in the float tank is reached.

• Check the float tank for debris.

2. Check the pump oil level. (System should be OFF.)

• Check your records to see when your last oil change occurred. Change the oil if it’s time. Otherwise, proceed below.

• Use either a dipstick or sight glass to visually inspect that your pump has an adequate amount of oil. If it’s low, add more or change the oil.

• Inspect to see if the oil appears milky colored. (This discoloration indicates the oil has been contaminated by water.) If it is milky, change the oil. Then inspect the oil again after several hours of operation. If the oil is still discolored, it’s likely due to the oil seals leaking and they will need to be replaced. Otherwise, the milky oil was probably due to condensation.

• If the oil is low, add more or change the oil.

3. Check your high pressure hose. (System should be OFF.)

• Carefully inspect your hose and look for any cover damage as well as coupling damage.

• If the cover is damaged to the point that reinforcing wire is exposed, remove the hose from service and replace it.

• If the cover is scuffed but no wire is exposed, get a backup hose to keep on hand just in case. (You should always keep a spare hose to keep yourself and your operators safe in case of damage, and also to prevent downtime.)

• Store your hoses properly – preferably using a properly rated hose reel – to reduce damage and prevent accidents.

4. Check your drive belts. (System should be OFF.)

• With your machine turned off (unplugged if electrical), open the cover and check the drive belt tension.

• Test the belt tension between the pulleys by pressing against the top of the belt halfway between the two pulleys. You can determine the proper deflection by measuring the distance between the center points of the two shafts, then multiplying by .016. So, for instance, if the distance is 18 inches, multiply 18 x .016, and you get .288 inches, which is about ¼ inch.

In general, ¼ to ½ inch deflection when pressure is applied is considered acceptable. If the deflection is greater than that, tighten the belts. (Loose belts will cause the slipping.)

• Check the belts for wear, and replace them if wear is noticeable. To do this, locate the slots that are either in the pump mounting rails or plate, or in the frame. Loosen the mounting bolts, then slide the pump until the pump is tightened. If you tighten the belt too much, bearing wear will result. Too loose and the belt will slip.

5. Check Your Fuel Supplies. (Machine should be turned OFF.)

• Check your engine’s fuel and oil levels. Refuel if needed using an approved fuel can.

Always make sure the engine is turned off when refueling.

• Add or change engine oil as needed.• Check your burner’s fuel supply, ensuring

there’s enough fuel in the tank. Make sure you are using the correct type of fuel oil or kerosene or you may damage the pump, which relies on the fuel passing through it for lubrication. Check the burner’s fuel filter bowl (if visible) for debris. Add fuel if needed.

• Check the burner’s fuel filter bowl for water. (Drawing water into the fuel pump can cause the internal fuel pump to rust and eventually fail.)

• Check to make sure the fuel source, tank, and drum are not contaminated with water or debris.

• If you find that anything is contaminated – or the wrong fuel was used – drain and change

8 eClean Magazine

the fuel. To flush the pump, clean the tank, fill it with clean fuel, then connect a different return line, stick it in a separate container and let the system run. The clean fuel will flush the pump and the contaminated fuel will flow out the return line into the new container. Otherwise, the same trash will be flushed back into the fuel tank. Do not flush the pump through the bleed valve.

• Make sure fuel cans are clean.

6. Check for Scale Deposits. (System should be turned OFF)

(See Sidebar to the right for more on scale.)• Remove the discharge quick connect and

check for scale deposits – i.e., the inlet is turning white – around the discharge fitting.

• If scaling is found, you will need to descale, add water pretreatment, or both.

• You can determine the amount of scaling by testing for backpressure from the scale-causing restrictions of the coil. If the pressure rises more than 10% above normal operating, descaling may be necessary.

7. Inspect power cords and wiring for damage. (System should be turned OFF)

• If you use extension cords, carefully check to see that they have operable grounding prongs and the proper plug for the units’ power requirement.

• Replace any cord that appears to be damaged.

• Replace any cords that are ungrounded. • NEVER operate a pressure washer that

appears to have potential electrical problems. • Ensure that any cords you use are

appropriate to meet your equipment’s demands and avoid overheating.

8. Check your safety ground. • Use a multimeter set to measure

continuity, or a test light, and check for continuity between the grounding leg on the equipment plug to exposed metal on the equipment frame.

• Continuity should be registered between these two points. Otherwise, there’s a grounding problem.

• Make sure any electrical cords have

appropriate ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI).

• Do not operate equipment without a ground or with a “suspicious” ground.

• If the circuit breaker trips, make sure the circuit breaker is rated for 20 amps or more (if using a 115V cleaner.

9. Check your nozzles. (System should be turned OFF.)

• With your machine off, inspect all your nozzles for wear or damage, as well as for any obstructions.

A clogged nozzle will create a distorted spray pattern. It will also cause potential problems in the system. However, if your nozzle is clogged, you may have problems in other parts of your system because the same debris that is clogging your nozzle likely clogged other parts of your system first. Sometimes, however, debris in the nozzle is picked up during storage. Debris may also result from worn seals, etc., in the system.

To prevent nozzles from clogging from internal debris, start your system without the

ScaleScale is a common problem, particularly

in areas with hard water, and it wreaks havoc on the coils in hot water systems’ burners.

Scale is created when water heats. Impurities in water, which include calcium, manganese, chloride and silicates – rise out of the water and deposit on the inside of the coil. Scale restricts water flow through the coil. It also insulates, significantly reducing the coil’s efficiency as a heat exchanger, which makes the coil extremely hot, but does not pass that heat on to the water.

Sometimes most of the scale buildup will be made up of deposits from cleaning chemicals rather than mineral deposits. Using a cleaning chemical that reduces buildup as well as softening agents will reduce calcium and silicate deposits.

9 eClean Magazine

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nozzle or with a variable pressure lance set to the lowest possible pressure. This may flush any debris out of the lance before it can clog the nozzle.

Worn nozzles will eventually result in pressure loss as the orifice becomes larger. If you are using a fan nozzle, you will also notice a narrowing spray pattern. NOTE: If you are experiencing a loss in pressure, check your nozzle first for wear BEFORE adjusting your unloader.

• When you clean your nozzles, remove them from your lance first. You can use a suitably-sized probe, pushing from the outside in, to remove debris.

• If lime or chemical scale is present in the nozzle, soak it in descaling solution or replace the nozzle. Scale inside the nozzle may indicate you have scale in other parts of your system as well.

• With the nozzle still removed, flush your system to try to remove any additional debris that may be present.

• Finally, make sure you are using the correctly sized nozzle for your equipment. (See “Nozzling” article by Pete Beckers on page 22)

10. Check for Fluid Leaks. (System should be turned ON)

(Note: You can do this check while your machine is warming up.)

• Check the system’s fluid handling system for leaks by checking all accessible fittings and connections. Do this in a dry area so that leaks will be easier to identify.

• If needed, open the machine’s cover to check for leaks throughout.

• If water is running out from under the float tank, check to make sure the float tank is filled with water by holding the float down and allowing the tank to overfill. Then drain and seal the float so that condition will not reoccur.

• If the float appears to be damaged, the float or float valve assembly may need to be repaired or replaced.

• Look for debris in the float tank. If debris

10 eClean Magazine

is present, clean the tank.• Make sure the float tank cover is in place

and intact.

11. Check your system pressure and unloader operation. (System should be turned ON)

• If you have a pressure gauge, check to see that the output pressure is within 5 to 10 percent of the rated system pressure. If you don’t have a pressure gauge, consider adding one – especially if the unit seems to be running higher or lower than normal.

• Check the system and pump for chattering or vibration, which may indicate an air leak into the system or a water-starved pump. Check for air leaks and that there’s no air in the system. If you have an air leak, you will need to purge the system of air after the problem is corrected.

• If you hear chattering or vibration and there is no air leak, you may have inlet water that is too hot or a stuck check valve.

• If your pressure is too high or too low but

the pump action is normal, you may need an unloader or pressure regulator adjustment. CHECK YOUR NOZZLE FIRST, however, to see if nozzle wear is the cause of the problem.

• Before adjusting your unloader, open and close the trigger gun several times. If you have a pressure gauge, inspect whether or not there is not an excessive pressure spike when you release the trigger.

• If you have a flow-actuated unloader and unloader cycling is noted, either your system flow is not optimum or you have the wrong orifice installed on your unloader.

12. Check for proper chemical delivery. (System should be turned ON)

   Date 

 S or U 

Date Corrected 

 Water Supply        Pump Oil        High Pressure Hose        Drive Belts        Fuel Supply        Scale Deposit        Power Cords        Safety Ground        Nozzles        Fluid Leaks        System Pressure/       Unloader Operation 

     

 Chemical Delivery        Trigger Gun        Spray Lance        Burner Operation        Sooting        Chemical Inventory        

Debris in the chemical delivery system can cause a number of problems in your system, including flow unloader cycling problems in downstream delivery systems, and clogged pump check valves in upstream injection systems.

• While your system is running and the chemical line is in the chemical container, open the chemical valve to see if the chemical flows correctly. You may need to modify the flow by turning the metering valve until an adequate amount of chemical is being delivered.

• If you have a downstream injector, switch to low pressure to deliver the chemical.

• Make sure the chemical line is fully submerged. If it is not fully submerged, you can introduce air into the system and can cause pump problems.

• Check your chemical strainer for debris or clogging. If you don’t have a strainer in your chemical line, you should add one. If your valve shows signs of wear or damage, repair or replace it.

• If you are using a downstream injector, make sure your injector has the correct orifice size. If the orifice is too small, you may experience a higher than normal operating pressure. This affects your ability to clean, and also puts a higher load on your power source.

A checklist can be as simple as this example: the item checked, the date checked, “S” (Satisfactory) or “U” (Unsatisfactory), and if you have a “U,” the date the problem is corrected.

11 eClean Magazine

NOTE: If your system is chattering, or has low pressure or cavitation, it may be that the chemical valve simply needs to be closed.

13. Check your trigger gun. (System should be turned ON.)

• Check your gun for leaking or damage. • If the gun is leaking out the back or the

handles, you may need to replace the o-ring at the pin or piston assembly.

• If the gun is leaking at the nozzle, you likely have a bad valve ball or seat. NOTE: This can cause the unloader to cycle in and out of bypass – i.e., causing the machine to start and stop even without an operator present. Remove the gun from service until it is repaired.

• If the gun is leaking around the inlet or outlet fittings, this is a hard area to fix. These fittings are hard to remove and it’s best to leave them alone unless necessary. If you need to remove the fittings, clean the threads and tape with Teflon tape before reassembling the gun.

• If the gun appears damaged, the trigger significantly sticks, if it does not shut off properly, or if it’s leaking somewhere other

than the aforementioned back, remove the gun from service until it’s fixed.

• Check your safety lock and ensure it works.• Check the quick coupling that attaches to

hose.• Make sure the trigger gun operates smoothly

and the water flow is regular. • If the gun is leaking around the inlet or

outlet fittings, the cause is likely because someone messed them up while trying to remove the discharge hose or lance improperly by holding onto the gun and trying to unscrew the discharge fitting, in turn loosening the internal gun connection. Instead, when removing a spray lance or discharge hose, it’s best to hold the trigger gun inlet or outlet securely, using two wrenches – one to hold and one to turn. This will keep the gun from leaking.

14. Check the spray lance. (System should be for variable pressure lance check.)

• Inspect the lance to ensure it is not damaged or bent. If it is noticeably bent or damaged, remove it from service.

• If using a variable pressure lance, check its

12 eClean Magazine

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operation by adjusting the pressure from low to high to low several times.

15. Check your burner operation. (System should be turned ON)

• Check how well your burner is heating. With your equipment operating and the thermostat set to its highest temperature below steam mode, check to see if the equipment gets up to its rated temperature and how long it takes.

• See if smoking stops within about a minute or less. If not, there is likely unburned fuel in the combustion chamber which will need to be drained or burned out.

• If there is moderate smoking, you may have an improper air adjustment.

• Open and shut your trigger gun several times to make sure the burner shuts off/restarts quickly and properly. If it does not shut off when the gun is closed, you may have a boiler control problem. Remove the unit from service until the problem is corrected.

• If the burner does not restart promptly after the trigger is relased, you probably have a fuel delivery problem. This

problem can be hard to identify, however, because you may also have air delivery or ignition difficulties.

• If the burner isn’t operating at its top conditions, check the fuel, air and ignitions systems and adjust until it reaches proper operation.

16. Check the heat exchanger for sooting. (System should be OFF.)

Sooting is caused when carbon deposits in fuel do not completely burn, usually due to the insufficient delivery of air needed for proper combustion. Like scale, soot can insulate the coil and cause the water to not heat properly.

• With the burner turned off, look inside the burner stack to see if there are excessive carbon buildup.

• For excessive soot building, desooting – which requires removing the coil and washing it off – is probably needed.

• Sooting is usually caused by a lack of adequate air supply. In general, burners need .9 cubic foot of air for every 100 Btu produced. So, for example, a 195,000 Btu per hour burner needs 1755 feet of air.

• A smoke testing kit can be used to correct problems.

17. Check your chemical inventory.As a final step, this is a smart time to make

sure you have enough chemicals on hand and that they are stored safely with lids secured

.

The information in this article is based off of “The Universal Guide to High Pressure and Steam Cleaner Repair,” which was written and published by Journey Publications , Inc., and is now out of print. The book includes 332 pages packed with information on pressure washer and steam cleaner systems and repair, including a number of charts and illustrations. We have a very small inventory of these books available to purchase through eCleanStore.com for $99.99 + $6 s/h.

Two Keynote Addresses: Friday: Transfer Your Passion to Your Employees - Curt Kempton Saturday: Killing Monsters and Slaying Dragons: Defanging 6 Huge Lies That Threaten To Kill Your Business -- Kevin Dubrosky

18 Educational Sessions• Racking Up Sales at Home Shows and Trade Shows - Jeremy Kiefer

• Pressure Washing 101: New Guys Only - Alex Curry

• 5 Stupid Mistakes That Kill Your Productivity - Steve Stevens

• Cure the 7 Year Business Itch - ’Jersey’ Josh Cronin

• 10 Things Every New Guy Should Know - Tim Fields

• Build an Unstoppable Residential Business - Brennon Williams

• Closing The Deal With PMs And HOAs - Michael Goellar

• Modern Commercial Sales Tactics - David Lionshare Carroll

• Seal n Lock Training - Richard Coletti

• Direct Mail - You’re Still Screwing It Up - Thad Eckhoff

• Pros and Cons of Pure Water Cleaning -Perry Tait

• Professional Wood Restoration -Charlie Soden

• SEO That Won’t Get You Smacked By Google - Anya Curry

• Roof Cleaning Dos and Don’ts - Jack Kramer

• Build a Successful Staining, Sealing, & Restoration Business - David Phillips

• Getting High- Fundamentals of High Rise Cleaning - Jeff Scott

• SoftWashing in the Real World - Micah Kommers

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• At the World Reknowned Opryland Resort

14 eClean Magazine

Is YOUR Pressure Washing Business

Prepared for the Worst?

by Clyde Hemminger, PowerWash.com

How much money will you lose if you have to spend a day waiting on parts to repair your machine? Even if you have

a strict preventative maintenance routine, you will have occasional parts failures, damage or losses. With this in mind we have compiled a list of the items that you should keep in your shop, and on your rig, to minimize costly down time and to better serve your customers.

A trigger gun of your choice. This is an item that will fail or may be damaged that you can’t do without. Having a backup will save you costly down time. We recommend upgrading to an easy pull gun like the YG-5000. These guns feature a trigger that is designed to reduce the amount of energy required to keep the trigger engaged. This will greatly reduce operator fatigue.

Spray wands of the size you most commonly use can come in handy when one is lost, damaged or in case an adjustable wand simply fails. You may want to consider upgrading your standard aluminum wand to a Zinc Plated Insulated Steel Spray Wand. If you are looking for a dual lance variable pressure wand, we recommend the Suttner ST-53.

Spray Nozzles will wear out and can be damaged or lost! Nozzles are available in many different sizes and configurations. We recommend upgrading to a nozzle with a quick coupled connection. These nozzles are easy to change and brightly color coded to make them easy to find in your tool box.

Quick Couplers can fail or be damaged. Spare sockets and plugs of each size should be readily available. Consider upgrading to stainless plugs and sockets for cleaning with corrosive chemicals like V-502. Stainless steel couplers also stand up to rust and surface abrasion better than standard brass couplers.

“O”-Rings can also fail and cause leaks, and they are not all created equal. The best O Rings for chemical applications are made from viton, and O Rings for high temperatures are made from silicone. For general cleaning use, you can›t go wrong with standard black buna.

Unloader Valves can fail at any time. When this happens you are often out of business until it is replaced. When you must replace your unloader valve you should replace it with the same valve that was installed from the factory.

15 eClean Magazine

Pressure Hoses are often damaged and fail during a job. To keep from having to leave the job before it is finished you should always carry a spare hose with you! Pressure hose is available in 1 wire braid for pressure up to 4000 PSI and 2 wire braid for pressure up to 5800 PSI. We recommend non-marking hose if you need to drag your hose across concrete or tile surfaces.

Pressure Relief Valves often fail as they age! Your pressure relief valve is like an artificial weak point. It will pop off if your pressure spikes to prevent a failure in another area like your hose or trigger gun. Keep them in working order to maintain your margin of safety.

Burner Fuel Filters need to be replaced at two-month intervals under normal circumstances, but if you get fuel that is contaminated you may have to change them on a moments notice.

Water Filters often fail due to freeze damage or rough handling. Water filters protect your

system from debris in water that can damage your machine. We recommend the can type water filter, because it has an easy to clean screw off cup.

Burner Transformers, especially the 12 volt variety, can fail without notice. Often they do so when you are on the job. With this in mind you should always be prepared to replace one when needed.

Burner High Limit Switches can fail due to extreme pressure spikes, from vibration or from damage. The high limit switch is installed in the flow path after the burner coil to monitor the water temperature as it exits the burner. If the temperature reaches a dangerous level, the switch will fire and the burner will shut off. This important safety device can save your life.

Pressure Switches are most often used to control the fuel solenoid located on the burner fuel pump. They are part of the system that turns the burner off when you release the trigger and stop the water from flowing through the system.

Fuel Solenoid Shut-Off Valves attach to the discharge from the fuel pump and are used to interrupt the flow of fuel to the burner when there is no water flowing through the system. These are commonly used on mobile hot water pressure washers.

The parts mentioned above are based on you having one hot water pressure washer though some of these parts can also be used with cold water washers as well. They aren’t all that you will ever need but they are the most common ones that will fail and cause you to lose time on the job!

Clyde Hemminger is the editor of the PowerWash.com blog. He has a background is multimedia design, and has been working in the pressure washing industry since 2010. The PowerWash.com blog is a resource for pressure washing industry professionals seeking information about business development and equipment advice.

16 eClean Magazine

Steamericas is a distributor of commercial and industrial cleaning products, specializing in vapor steam machines for mobile and in-house applications. It is the first U.S. subsidiary of SJE Corporation – a South Korean manufacturer and distributor of commercial and industrial cleaning equipment.

Specifically, Steamericas distributes the Optima Steamer line of equipment, which can be used in a variety of cleaning markets, particularly where water or wastewater is a problem. “Our equipment is largely used in automotive detailing industries, and it’s been taking the food and beverage industry by storm,” explained Sales and Marketing Specialist Ebony Young. “Also, steam can be used indoors around electrical equipment, which opens the doors to a number of niche applications.”

Why Steam?The Optima steamer can be used in a variety

of popular markets that pressure washing contractors serve, including graffiti removal, mold and gum removal, kitchen cleaning, commercial equipment cleaning, HVAC equipment cleaning, marine cleaning, airplane cleaning and a whole lot more – all while removing stains, deodorizing and sanitizing. The Optima steamer can also be used for cleaning windows.

In many instances, using steam over high pressure water has its advantages:

Less Inventory: Power washing operators have to carry a lot of equipment and chemicals.

Using steam, however, downsizes overhead and uses a fraction of the water and chemical of a pressure washer, and creates zero wastewater runoff. The heat of the steam breaks up most of the soil, grease and grime, which reduces the need for chemicals by up to 90 percent and the use of water by 95 percent.

With the Optima Steamer, you no longer need to lug multiple equipment and chemical bottles and heavy water tanks in limited space of your vehicle.

Minimal Fuel Consumption: The Optima Steamer is very fuel efficient. The Optima’s diesel burner does not idle and only ignites to maintain operating pressure. In other words, after turning on the Optima, the diesel burner is not always firing or consuming fuel. The boiler burner of Optima DMF, DM and DS consumes 1.1 gallons of diesel per hour only if the burner is continuously firing, which is unlikely scenario. Typically, an eight hour continuous operation will require about 2-3

Exhibitors

PWNA Vendor

17 eClean Magazine

gallons of diesel.Less Bureaucracy: With the Optima

Steamer, contractors can avoid the hassles of obtaining a car wash permit, allowing you to run your mobile operation with a simple business license. This means that most all municipalities can be circumvented because the Optima Steamer provides a safe, eco-friendly, total washing system.

In addition, businesses using the Optima Steamer will be exempt from hefty fines or shut-down notices due to improper chemical or wastewater disposal. Contractors also have a way to gain more cleaning contracts.

Fewer Health Risks: The gentle, pure dry vapor steam from the Optima Steamer penetrates the toughest and most delicate surfaces without the use of chemicals. A chemical-free, purified cleaning process will allow you to avoid the health risks of inhaling chemical fumes. And on top of all this, you can stay dry while you wash and detail.

Why Steamericas?The Optima steamers use a dry vapor steam,

which means less water usage than most steam cleaners on the market. That makes it one of the most environmentally friendly cleaners in the industry.

The Optima also comes in a variety of models designed to meet individual contractor needs. With a host of different models, contractors can choose the right machine to fit their specific needs.

Why the PWNA?Last year, Steamericas joined the Power

Washers of North America (PWNA) and participated in the annual convention and trade show. “We wanted to introduce our equipment to the mobile pressure washing market and provide them with an opportunity to experience our equipment, which is likely different from what they’ve used in the past,” Young explained. “We believe that adding a dry vapor steam system can open a world of new opportunities for pressure washing contractors.”

To learn more about Steamericas, visit their website: www.Steamericas.com.

New PWNA MembersJudy Arthur, Wholesale Cleaning Chemicals, LLC

Cal Gordon, Spot On Pressure Washing

Gibran Strachan, Hood Generals

Craig McCloud, Nana Management Services

Barry Armstrong, Armstrong Painting, Inc.

Anthony Chavira, Alarm Security and Contracting Inc.

John Skotidakis, TBA

Julius Dass, TBA

Anthony Martin, TBA

John Craig, Dirty Ducts

Blake Robinson, Dirty Ducts

Doug Odettte, National Fire Control

Mark Busch, Clean Fleet Services

Brenton Adcock, Green Hydroclean

Mike Tucker, Code Blue Power Services

Nigel Nanan, Hot 2 Cold Equipment Engineering Company Limited

Kevin Smith, Michael Smith Duct Cleaning

Michael Rios, H2O Pressure Service

Brian Murphy, North Coast Cleaning Service

18 eClean Magazine

Registration Opens for 2014 PWNA

National Convention & Trade Show

Save $75 Thru July 31

Registration opens July 1 for the 2014 Power Washers of North America (PWNA) National Convention and Trade Show – November 1 through 3 in Orlando – and attendees can save $75 by registering before July 31. “So if you’re already planning on attending, this is a great time to sign up,” said PWNA Executive Director Jackie Gavett.

Vendor booths are already filling up, and the trade show looks to be one of the biggest in PWNA history. “The convention is going to be a great place for people to come and learn, network, meet with vendors face to face, and see equipment in action,” explained PWNA President John Nearon.

Nearon summed up the experience of so many who attended last year’s convention, including Meg Josetti of All Clean Power Washing in Selbyville, Delaware. “My

husband and I both learned more than we had thought possible. It was great to meet so many quality people – from the board members, bigger companies and vendors, to the guys just starting out.”

Another first time attendee, Josh Minx of Southern Clean in Knob Noster, Missouri, decided to attend last year after winning a free PWNA membership through PowerWashCommunity.com. “To be honest, I thought it would be closed group where if you didn’t know people they wouldn’t speak to you. I was way wrong. I spoke with other power washers like I’d known them for years. I felt like I was accepted right off the bat. It was a great event.”

Jerome Kahn of Clean Image, Ltd., in Trinidad will be journeying to the annual convention for the third year in a row. “As a foreigner, when I first joined the PWNA I was a bit skeptical. But as soon as I arrived to the first show, everybody in the PWNA welcomed me, willingly shared information, techniques and even secrets that probably took them year to develop,” he explained. “The PWNA has helped me in every aspect of my business, from the right way to work, chemicals to use, safety equipment to use, and standards to keep at all times. But it also puts me face to face with the major suppliers and players in the industry who

19 eClean Magazine

are always willing to share and help me grow my business.”

The 2014 ConventionThe PWNA Convention will be returning

to the Embassy Suites in Orlando, Florida, for the third year in a row. This decision was largely made due to the exceptional quality of service and hospitality that the hotel has provided at past PWNA events. “We want this to be a family-friendly venue, and Orlando is also a location with plenty for families to do,” Nearon explained. Additionally, the PWNA convention will be running back-to-back with the ISSA/CETA show, which will take place in Orlando from November 4 through 7. “ISSA hosts one of the largest cleaning trade shows in the world, and this is a great opportunity for PWNA attendees who want to attend our show as well walk the ISSA trade show floor.”

The PWNA convention will again offer certification classes in six different areas:

• Flatwork• House Washing• Roof Cleaning• Wood Restoration• Fleet Washing• Environmental

Certification courses range in price from $149 to $395, and $99

of each convention registration can applied toward the certification class of your choice.

The event will also feature several non-certification classes, which are included in the event registration price. The following classes have been confirmed so far:

• Power Washing 101 with Tracy Handl, North American Pressure Wash Outlet

• OSHA Training, Linda Chambers of Soap Warehouse

• Chemical Safety, Linda Chambers of Soap Warehouse

• Nuts & Bolts of Your Business Plan, Vickie Eubanks of South Shore Building Services

• Parking Garage Cleaning & Filtration Systems, Jim Gamble, Nigel Griffith and John Tornabene

• Taking your Business into the Millions – Panel Discussion

The PWNA Convention also includes outdoor demos, two snack and chat roundtable lunches, free cocktail receptions, the trade show, plus a variety of items to be auctioned off or given away. Hydro Tek has already confirmed that they will once again be giving away a skid, with components

20 eClean Magazine

donated by Beckett Burner, General Pump and Kohler Engine.

“The PWNA has always delivered at the conventions for me: from great training, to the products and demos put on by the vendors, to the snack and Chat roundtables that allow me to sit with teachers of my choice to get some deeper insight and information in their field of expertise,” said Kahn. “The million-dollar panel discussion last year which was priceless. Add in the auctions and raffle, and you’ve got the opportunity to win a skid. How much more can you ask for?”

Build the Dream/ Live the Dream

The 2014 PWNA Convention and Trade Show will once again be a continuation of the PWNA theme: Build the Dream/Live the Dream. “The commitment from the PWNA and its board of directors is to provide the tools necessary to responsibly build and sustain your dream business,” explained BOD Member Ty Eubanks.

Building your dream, according to Eubanks, is not just about how much money your business can make, but the quality of your experience in pursuit of this goal. “The PWNA will educate and train members who are motivated to grow their businesses. There is no better way to

accomplish this plan than to attend the upcoming 2014 PWNA convention in Orlando, Florida. At this event, you will be exposed to the top power washing experts from across the country in a casual, interactive, and genuinely helpful atmosphere.”

Eubanks concluded by adding, “One meaningful conversation will be worth the cost of attending. Take the time to work on your business rather than just in your business.

Register by July 31 and SAVE

Registration for the event is now open. The cost of the event is $249 for members, $349 for non-members, both of which include $99 toward the certification class of your choice. Contractors who register by July 31 will SAVE $75. To register, visit www.PWNA.org and click on the convention link.

Room reservations can also now be made by going to https://resweb.passkey.com/Resweb.do?mode=welcome_ei_new&eventID=11611611 or by calling 407-597-4000. Use the Code PWA to receive the PWNA discounted room rate of $119/night plus tax. The cutoff date to receive this discount is October 2, 2014.

To Build & Live the Dream… All you have to

do is SHOW UP!

21 eClean Magazine

Few moments in modern life are as frustrating as the instant a certain piece of relied-on equipment won’t start. For the consumer, this may lead to hours upon hours of customer service calls – or to a new purchase, in extreme cases. For the business owner, however, non-operational equipment can be truly devastating to the bottom line. For this reason, we present the following trouble-shooting guide for an industrial or commercial pressure washer that just won’t start.

Common Reasons Why an Industrial Pressure Washer Won’t Start

For a gas- or diesel-driven industrial pressure washer:

Gearbox, engine or pump has seized. If your engine won’t start because one of these major components is frozen, you will need to discover the faulty part and repair or replace it.

Starter, key switch or solenoid is out of order. It could be that the industrial power washer’s engine isn’t revving up because its starter components are busted. Again, you will need to identify and repair or replace broken parts. Oftentimes, the high-tension wire leading to the spark plug has come slack; you will need to push down on the connector end to make sure the spark plug and wire are in contact.

If the engine sounds like it wants to start, but it won’t actually crank over, check that you have enough fuel and oil in the system.

What to Do When Your

Pressure Washer Won’t Start

Old, corroded fuel may also be to blame. Finally, check the fuel filter, which may be clogged.

For an electric-driven commercial power washer:

Check cord, socket, breaker and plug. A problem in any of these “links” in the electricity chain will result in a non-starting engine.

Thermal overload switch has been tripped. It’s likely that your industrial power washer has an automatic shut-off feature that kicks on when the machine gets too hot. This is meant to preserve your engine. If you are certain that your commercial power washer is cool, you can reset the manual overload. (Beware: Some power washers will automatically restart after they have cooled.)

Kaput power switch. Double check that your power switch is working properly.

Improper water flow at inlet. A commercial power washer needs a certain level of incoming water pressure to operate. Ensure that your inlet has the right level of water pressure.

Electric motor or wiring failure. If none of the above apply, your industrial power washer is probably suffering from a wiring or motor problem. You will need to replace or repair the motor and/or wiring to fix this situation.

Routine maintenance, such as air filter and spark plug replacement, will help keep your industrial power washer humming along problem-free.

by Paul Horsley, Publisher

22 eClean Magazine

We know that a pressure pump is employed to do two functions in the

standard power washer: to pump water, and to put that water under pressure. From there, we get our ratings of psi and gpm.

If, for the sake of argument, we are pushing out 4 gpm @ 4000 psi, we can change one thing here – the pressure. If we have a constant water supply, we will be putting out the 4 gpm no matter what we do. We can take out the nozzle and it will still put out 4 gpm. We can put in a zero degree nozzle and still get the same 4 gpm. As long as the water supply that feeds the pump is up to the output level or greater of the flow rating, we will maintain the same gpm. We can try to put in 8 gallons of water into the pump but it will still only pump out the rated 4 gpm.

An important sidenote: I would like to mention you can change this output on a pump by over-driving or under-driving it. This is achieved by changing the pulleys on the motor and or pump. Over-driving it will turn the pump faster, thus moving more water through the pump. Under-driving the pump will produce less speed, and thus less water will move through it.

That said, in almost every instance, the

water volume or the gpm is static. By changing the nozzle, however, we can change our pressure. I realize that someone out there right now is saying, “Hey, I can change the pressure by screwing out the unloader. That’s all it takes.” While this is true to a certain point, once your unloader is set for maximum output, it should not be touched! I have most of my unloaders set to the maximum output and then I will lock them down inside the knob with a Nilock locking nut, allowing me the capability of turning the knob at maybe a half turn to free up the unloader if it sticks. This way it is tamper resistant if someone walking by turns the knob.

This leaves us only one way to now change the pressure that is being developed in the pump – “nozzling.”

Understanding NozzlingNow for us “house washers,” we would

generally like to have less pressure sometimes, like when we wash vinyl or soft woods as well as paint. How? We use an oversized tip. We can use, say, a #40 or #50. We can have the advantage of changing the fan pattern too.

Getting the cleaning power of a larger stream of water moves that dirt off faster. We are

Nozzling the Power Washer: How It Works, Why It’s Important

by Pete Beckers, Owner of Cleaned by Pete, www.CleanedbyPete.com

23 eClean Magazine

always cleaning with friction – water moving over the dirt particles. The force of the moving water is what really cleans. The fan pattern will not change your pressure but it makes you able to contain the stream for a further reach or to widen it for a larger rinse area.

Let’s look at it this way. On your garden hose, if we block off part of the end of the hose you can make the water squirt out farther. The smaller we make end of the hose, the more pressure it has. A fire nozzle has a relative small hole in comparison to the size of the hose. If we use just the end of the hose, the water comes gushing out but without a lot behind it. Anytime we move up in the nozzle size by enlarging the hole, it will allow us to still have the cleaning power of the volume of water at a lower pressure.

When I first started cleaning, there were not all the shops and supply houses out there. I had a lot of trial and error to find out what worked to lower the pressure. I would use worn out nozzles or would go in and buy a fistful of correct size nozzles and start to drill them a bit larger with a numbered set of drills. Drill it out, try it, and see if it was what we needed.

On a side note, you notice these nozzles wear out sometimes. You think you’re losing pressure in your machine but it could be the water has bored the hole in the nozzle larger. The higher the flow, the more the pressure, the quicker the wear on the nozzle.

Now as we drilled and tested, we would find the hole size “oversized nozzle” that worked for what we were doing. You know when big is too big because it reduces the pressure enough to draw soap or cleaner. Now this is “nozzling” in its simplest form. Simply letting more water flow out the nozzle by making it bigger in diameter and in the process we also soften up its cleaning effect on the surface we need to be more careful with. Surfaces as vinyl, wood, plastic, soft rock or any other substrate that cannot take high pressure. You can use smaller washers for certain jobs that will require less pressure. However, in using less pressure and gallon flow, we also will not be able to reach and clean higher areas as two and

three story houses. Nozzling the large units is what works for us.

Using a Nozzle ChartOur pump should be using a certain size

of nozzle. Let’s just say for this case we are using a #5 nozzle. This is the size of the hole in the nozzle. If we use this #5 nozzle, we will

be putting out our recommended pressure. No matter if we use a 0 degree tip or a 40 degree tip we will be changing the fan pattern but the pressure will remain the same.

How do I know this? I use a nozzle chart, like the one on the next page.

Before starting, all we need to know is how many gallons per minute your power washer puts out. We don’t care how powerful it is, what size the motor has, what type of pump it has or what brand.

For this example, let’s first say our washer is 4 gpm @ 4000 psi. The only reason I’m noting the psi is you’ll never make more psi than what it is rated at. I cannot put out 5000 psi with a 4000 psi machine, even with a smaller nozzle. The machine will simply bypass water if you size a nozzle too small, which will just overwork your unloader and wear it out faster.

Now we want to clean some vinyl on a home. Do we need 4000 psi, the rating on the washer? No not for vinyl. Let’s say, for example, more like 1000 psi will do the job. Look at the chart and find 1000 psi. Go down till we find our gpm output, which is 4 gpm . Found it? If so, move to the left till you find the first column. You should be on 08 if you want only to use a 1000 psi with a 4 gallon washer you need a #08 nozzle in the fan pattern you wish.

Let’s go again. We want to use 2000 psi for

TIP: If you would like to see what may work for you to help to quickly get a range of what size tip you would like, pick up a #30, #40 and a #50 all in a 0 degree and give them a try. If you draw soap or cleaner downstreaming, you can use that tip shoot soap but you know what range your in for rinsing. Once you find the best size, you then can get into the fan pattern from 5 degrees to 25 degrees and again see what

works for you.

24 eClean Magazine

some cleaning. Go to 2000 psi down to 4 gpm, move to the first column. Wait. There is no 4 gpm. So simply round DOWN to the closest option, which in this case is 3.9 and means you would need a #055. I always go with the smaller number (i.e., round down) since you cannot create more water flow than what you have.

What if we have a 5 gallon output machine? Let’s try it. I want 2500 psi. Again, find the 2500 column. Follow it down until you get as close as you can to 5. There is no 5, so you have the choice of 4.7 or 5.1. Round down (i.e., 4.7) and you should have found a #06 on the far left column. The larger size lets more water pass through giving a softer or less harsh psi.

I now hope you see it is not magic or that hard to use to find what you need for washing. You never have to touch your unloader like some think you do to set psi. You set it at peak psi and use nozzles to control your psi.

Our simple chart was good for training, but let’s go back to washing that vinyl home. I would like to use only 800 psi but our chart does not go down that far. Other charts do though. The same principles as above apply,

it’s just more specific. I wish to add since I have different

machines, my tool box is full of nozzles. I can use the chart this way too. I have a #08.5 nozzle that I may want to use with my 4.5 gpm unit. What will it do? Find the nozzle size in the first column., Move to the right until I find the closest output to 4.5 then up to see what it can do. If my eyes are right, looks to be 1000 psi.

One more try. Let’s say we have a #50, which some like to soap and rinse homes with. Why? What will it put out with an 8 gallon machine? Size 50 in the first column to the output to 8 gpm moving right looks like 7.1 is the closest output, then up, shows 100 psi. That is about twice the psi of an average garden hose “soft washing.” With the chart and a handful of nozzles, you can adjust your washing pressure to most projects. Power to soft washing – it is all in the tips you use.

Play around with larger sized nozzles and find what works for your washer and how you wash. Always go bigger because the bigger you go, the less pressure your washer will develop. You will want the greatest flow without drawing

Nozzle Size

1000 PSI

1500 PSI

2000 PSI

2500 PSI

3000 PSI

3500 PSI

4000 PSI

4500 PSI

5000 PSI

02  1.0  1.2  1.4  1.6  1.7  1.9  2.0  2.1  2.2 025  1.3  1.5  1.8  2.0  2.2  2.3  2.5  2.7  2.8 03  1.5  1.8  2.1  2.4  2.6  2.8  3.0  3.2  3.4 035  1.8  2.1  2.5  2.8  3.0  3.3  3.5  3.7  3.9 04  2.0  2.4  2.8  3.2  3.5  3.7  4.0  4.2  4.5 045  2.3  2.8  3.2  3.6  3.9  4.2  4.5  4.8  5.0 05  2.5  3.1  3.5  4.0  4.3  4.7  5.0  5.3  5.6 055  2.8  3.4  3.9  4.3  4.8  5.1  5.5  5.8  6.1 06  3.0  3.7  4.2  4.7  5.2  5.6  6.0  6.4  6.7 065  3.3  4.0  4.6  5.1  5.6  6.1  6.5  6.9  7.3 07  3.5  4.3  4.9  5.5  6.1  6.5  7.0  7.4  7.8 075  3.8  4.6  5.3  5.9  6.5  7.0  7.5  8.0  8.4 08  4.0  4.9  5.7  6.3  6.9  7.5  8.0  8.5  8.9 085  4.3  5.2  6.0  6.7  7.4  8.0  8.5  9.0  9.5 09  4.5  5.5  6.4  7.1  7.8  8.4  9.0  9.5  10.1 10  5.0  6.1  7.1  7.9  8.7  9.4  10.0  10.6  11.2 

   

25 eClean Magazine

soap. You are fine tuning your machine. What works for another may not be optimal for you.

Never go smaller than your recommended size unless you have a gauge and a special gun with pressure pop-offs to check things out. If you do not, you may need to see your power washing repair shop to set the unloader and find the appropriate size nozzle.

I hope this now makes sense to you. Using nozzles to reduce psi or nozzling as I call it is simple and easy. You need not worry about blasting or harming soft surfaces with an oversized nozzle and a wider fan pattern you can open up your world of clean.

High pressure is good for a few things but controllable psi is far more useful.

I’m a geek when it come to having the right

Joseph D. Walters Insurance Announces Power Wash Program Change in California and Texas

Tom Svrcek and Joseph D. Walters Insurance are pleased to announce a plan change in California and Texas. Effective immediately, there is a positive plan change that allows for bigger and deeper discounts and premium reductions for new contractors in the power washing business.

“While we continue to enhance coverage and rates for our power wash program, we are excited to be able to negotiate better rates in states that are heavily populated and have a bigger base of new contractors needing our exclusive plan,” Tom Svrcek, agency president said. “This enhanced program in California and Texas is unbeatable. The coverages are great and rates have been reduced considerably.”

Amy Vollmer, Marketing Director at Joseph D. Walters Insurance added, “Joe is the guy who pioneered our exclusive plan in 1978. We do business in 47 states and our growth in the last two years has been fantastic. One of the best things that happened in our industry was when Tom and Joe merged their agencies. We get things done because of our huge volume…because size does matter. It’s the size of our agency and continued success of this plan that enables us to continue to take the power washer program to a new level in terms of coverage, eligibility and price. The agents are very excited to be able to help the large pool of new power wash contractors in California and Texas with our new plan we’ve negotiated for them.”

Joseph D. Walters Insurance is a full service independent insurance agency that has been serving the pressure washing insurance industry since 1978. Being a recognized industry leader, they offer an exclusive insurance plan that meets the insurance needs of power washers nationwide. Request more information by calling 1-800-878-3808 or online at www.josephdwalters.com

tools an equipment. Being able to fine tune a power washer to get the best, safest, and most effective use from the water we use helps save this resource.

Water is one of the most precious resources we have. Doing our part to get the best effect from it is “eco friendly” and a no-brainer. Each doing their part, to do what we can to help mother earth out a bit, is what a professional power washer does or should be doing.

Pete Beckers is the owner of Cleaned by Pete (www.CleanedbyPete.com) in Springfield, Missouri. Beckers also has a blog that he writes for pressure washing contractors, which can be found at www.cleanedbypete.blogspot.com

26 eClean Magazine

There are lots of discussions in our industry about how old concrete has to be before you can clean it as well as the

question, “Why am I leaving stripes in it?” As for striping, some people say walk

faster. Some say walk slower. Some talk about choking the ball valve to reduce pressure. Some say switch to 15° tips while some say switch to 25° tips. Some say use 2.5 size orifices and some say use 3.5 size orifices.

It can be very confusing. Which of the above procedures will help prevent striping?

The truth is, any of these can…or none of these can.

While people are going around and around with these solutions as to why they are still leaving stripes on the concrete surface they are trying to clean, there may be another reason they are not thinking about.

While it is very important, first of all, to match the orifice size of the spray nozzles on your surface cleaner to the gallon per minute (GPM) of your machine, many times it may be more important to match the nozzles to the concrete you are trying to clean.

Through my 31-year career in bridge and

heavy foundation construction, I poured tons and tons of concrete, which has given me some unique insights on concrete cleaning.

Not All Concrete Is the SameThough all concrete may look the same in

appearance to the eye, in reality, there can be vast differences in the strength or hardness of the concrete you are trying to clean. I will try to give you some understanding of why you may run into striping at one location and not have a problem with it at others. Sometimes even on the same driveway or sidewalk.

Here, we are talking about “concrete.” Some people call it cement, but cement is only an ingredient in concrete, like flour is an ingredient in bread. Concrete is also made up of small aggregate (sand) and larger aggregate (stone). What some call the cream, butter, or paste on the surface of concrete, the actual name for it is grout. Grout is what you get with mixing sand and cement together. Grout has little strength alone without the larger stone, is subject to wear and tear, and can be effected by certain chemicals put on it.

First of all, the cement can make a lot of

Cleaning Concrete: Why It’s more Complicated Than

You Might Realizeby Len Sutton, Sea to Summit Pressure Washing & Window Cleaning, LLC, www.SeatoSummitPressureWashing.com

27 eClean Magazine

difference in the hardness of concrete. The concrete you may encounter can be comprised of natural cement, which is made up of mostly limestone. Natural cement has been around for centuries, but has little strength comparatively to “Portland Cement.” This Portland cement is not a brand name, but an engineered recipe of limestone and other materials for greatly improved cement strength. These materials are blended together, cooked in an oven until they melt and solidify into a hard block, then ground into a fine powder.

Then there is the sand used. Sand adds strength to cement, into the formation of grout, but the kind of sand used can contribute to the variance in the strength of the grout. River sand has smooth surface and doesn’t offer much for the cement to lock onto. Quarry sand has more angular edges and gives the cement a better grip, thus supporting a stronger grout.

Next would be the size and type of aggregate or stone used. If concrete was comprised of only small stone of ½” or smaller, it would still not be very strong. So a larger stone – up to 1 ½” – is blended in. Some concrete specifications require stone up to 3” in diameter to be blended in. Likewise, an angular shaped stone

will yield stronger concrete than the smooth rounded sides of river stone.

That is all pretty basic for the recipe for concrete, but there is also a lot more science that goes into the varying strengths of concrete for whatever the job specifications requires. There are a lot of admixtures that can influence the strength of concrete. One way to make concrete stronger is by adding more Portland Cement to the mixture. Since cement is heavy and expensive, fly-ash, a by-product produced from coal burning power plants, can be added to make concrete stronger without adding a lot more weight to it.

Another admixture would be an air entrainment solution that causes nitrogen or oxygen bubbles to form in the concrete. The reason these air bubbles can have an effect on concrete and the importance of them is these bubbles give a space for concrete to expand into during warm temperatures. Without a place for concrete to expand into, it has to compress into itself and you start to get compression cracking, also called “expansion cracking”. Saw cuts may help, but how many driveways do you see with cuts in them that are still cracking?

28 eClean Magazine

The Role of WaterBefore I talk about some of the other

admixtures, I want to talk about the most common admixture of all used in concrete – water.

Water is needed to hydrate the powdered cement so it can cure back into a solid. There is a very specific amount of water needed to rehydrate cement into the hardness is it capable of, but too much water can have adverse effects on concrete.

Water has volume, and thus takes up space. Take five cubic feet of concrete and add three cubic feet water to it. Now you have eight cubic feet of concrete, theoretically. However, once the water has evaporated out, your diluted concrete may be taking up eight cu.ft. of space, but what you actually have is a much weakened concrete.

I poured over one-and-a-half million cubic yards of concrete in my previous career as bridge and heavy foundation superintendent, so I know how hard it can be place concrete. It is heavy and very difficult to move into the proper place, especially if the mix is dry. So the temptation is to add water until the concrete is fluid enough to practically be self-leveling. However, this is very harmful to the strength of concrete.

This brings me to plasticizers and super plasticizers. These admixtures greatly increase the fluidity and workability of concrete without adding water or compromising the concrete’s strength.

Then there are concrete retarders to extend the time it takes for concrete to begin its initial set. The importance of this will be discussed shortly as well.

How All of This Impacts CleaningSo how does all of this affect the concrete we

are trying to clean? I will start with residential concrete.

Problem #1: Let’s face it, maybe not all, but most homebuilders will only use the minimum strength concrete they can get by with so they can save money. Most home builders will use 2,500 psi strength concrete in sidewalks and driveways

Problem #2: Concrete has a life span of

about 45 minutes from the time it is put into the delivery truck until it is poured in place on the jobsite. After that it begins to undergo its initial curing process. Concrete does not dry out to harden, but it is actually a chemical reaction (i.e., “curing”) that causes concrete to harden. Once this chemical reaction begins, it cannot be stopped and should be rejected, but I have seen many residential contractors leave concrete sitting in the truck for hours and try to prevent it from setting up in the truck – by continually added water to it.

Problem #3: water again. Like I said earlier, concrete is difficult to get into place or leveled, such as in a driveway or sidewalk, so the concrete placing contractor will add water to the mix instead of more costly plasticizers to make it almost self-leveling.

This greatly reduces the strength and hardness of the concrete that can cause it to be not only more susceptible to striping with a surface cleaner but concrete that will soon fail as cracks begin to appear.

Problem #4: Concrete undergoes a curing process to harden and does not dry like some people think it does. Actually, the best way to assure proper curing would be place the concrete under water for 14 days while it is curing. I have flooded many of my pours with water during the curing phase. If flooding was not possible, we covered the fresh concrete with wet burlap mats and then covered that with a wet burlap mat that had a plastic coating on one side called burlene. Even then we had to keep water flowing over the top with pressure washers with the wands being sprayed into air to create a rain like mist or by placing garden sprinklers about on the concrete.

In addition to problem 4, concrete should not be poured unless the temperature is 35 F and rising and will not drop below freezing for five days. If the temperatures threaten to fall below freezing during those first five days, then the concrete needs to be securely covered with thermal blankets. In residential and even some commercial work, I have seen concrete poured well below freezing and left fully exposed to the cold without any protection what so ever.

While it may seem I am picking on

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residential concrete it may be because I am. But they are not always the only offenders. There seems to be no inspectors or proper procedures followed during any part of the processes of pouring residential concrete. Whereas, in some of the better higher end commercial work, concrete placement is usually more tightly controlled.

In my previous line of work, there were inspectors on the job that took samples from every truckload of concrete that showed up on the jobsite. The inspectors checked for the proper water amount, proper amount of air, they also checked the time the concrete was put in the truck and if any of the test failed the truck was rejected and sent back to the plant. However, most concrete dispatchers would usually know a residential contractor or two and would make a call to them to see if they could take the load instead of wasting it in a pit behind the concrete plant.

How Long Should You Wait Before Cleaning?

Concrete is supposed to reach its maximum designed strength in 21 days. That would be

the simple answer to the question of how long does it take for concrete to get hard enough to clean.

It can happen sooner, even as soon as seven days, but you are generally safe after the 21 days if all the right processes were followed. However, since you do not know how the concrete was handled before, during its placement, or how it was cured after its placement, it actually may never reach its full strength or it may take a long time for it to do so. Therefore, be sure to do a test spot in an inconspicuous place.

I hope this helps you have a better understanding about concrete and why there can be no “concrete” answer as to how old concrete has to be before you can clean it with high pressure.

Len Sutton is the owner of Sea to

Summit Pressure Washing and Window Cleaning in South Carolina. To learn more about his company, visit www.SeatoSummitPressureWashing.com.

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Sales for the Cleaning Agent by Rick Meehan, Marko Janitorial,

www.MarkoInc.com

To discuss selling in our World of Clean, we first need an understanding of the act of

purchasing. All of us purchase things in order to survive,

especially food. That’s why we’re labeled “consumers.” Even the most stalwart purchasing agent cannot make better decisions than a mom on a tight budget shopping for clothes for her kids. Both are tough, shrewd, and sometimes even logical in their buying habits. Their decisions are based on series of complex emotional stimuli. Sounds forbidding, doesn’t it?

Let’s put it another way: my wife is cagey when it comes to spending money. She shops for the best price, haggles if possible to get the price down, but never buys junk no matter what the price. There is nothing simplistic about the act of purchasing, yet most cleaning services take a naive approach to selling.

If we rely solely on low prices to sell our services, not only do we lose profits, we lose sales. Buyers seek value for their money. The trick is to convey the value attached to our service in ways buyers will understand. What it boils down to is an emotional appeal!

The act of shopping is fraught with emotions, especially if haggling is involved. This means a

buyer’s five senses must come into play during a sales presentation.

Think about the last time you purchased a really great steak at the grocery store. Didn’t you search for the best color on the meat, test the air around the butcher’s counter with your nose to make sure there were no unsavory smells of putrefaction, poke at the plastic wrap to test for tenderness, and listen to the crinkle of the foam tray in your fingers? The only thing you couldn’t do was taste the meat, yet I expect your mouth watered at the thought of doing so! You told yourself, based on the emotional responses from all the other physical sensations, that you needed to buy that meat. Only then did logic take a stand.

At last, it gets down to reasoning. Can you afford it? Should you afford it? After all, a good porterhouse steak is rather expensive. Is it worth the price for that moment of palatability? You savor the taste in your mind, again to make sure you really want it. Sometimes you do, sometimes you don’t.

I’ll bet it’s really hard to put that package back in the meat counter, though. Logic must take over in order to refuse a purchase that in every other way has been decided upon. Your

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must tell yourself firmly, “I can’t afford it…I don’t really need this…I need something else instead…” A good salesperson can identify this final moment of indecision.

Let’s continue with the porterhouse steak example: A good butcher would be watching for signs that a customer might be hesitant. “Putting together a special meal tonight? Need help deciding on the right choice of meat? Ah, planning a special treat for the grill, are you?” Questions like these, empathetic in nature, are designed to keep the customer on track in the final stage of purchasing — making the decision to buy.

In this case, the butcher knows the customer wants a very good steak because he noticed signs of interest (visual scrutiny, fiddling with the package, a furrowed brow). The questions are couched to remind the customer of why she wants the steak. This kind of query must come at that moment of hesitancy, when logic has nearly toppled the idea of making the purchase.

A person’s body language can be most telling, like reading a book. We should watch our clients with an eye toward recognizing signs of stress. Every buyer goes through moments of hesitancy when it comes to spending money. Buying can be stressful, especially when the purchase represents a sizable amount of the cleaning budget — similar to buying a car, house, or even a porterhouse steak! The cost of our services versus the perceived affordability can be painful for our buyer. We should offer relief in the form of justification: if the customer needs what we offer, we must help them justify the purchase.

Selling is a combination of art, science, and religion. Good salespeople are moral in their dealings with others, so they don’t take advantage of a client’s indecision to push services that aren’t really needed. We, owners or salespeople for our cleaning agency, should know our services and capabilities thoroughly, like medical doctors who understand details of anatomy necessary to triage, diagnose, a prescribe remedies for physical maladies.

Finally, a service demonstration should have the qualities of a masterpiece: understandable theme, emotional evocation, and satisfaction through purchase. Yes, even cleaning firms should demonstrate their abilities as a way

of satisfying a prospective client’s desire for justification of monies allocated. We should show what we are capable of, not tell. Otherwise, what we describe about our services goes “in one ear and out the other,” like Mom used to say.

Never let price be the overriding factor in selling services. Allow our firm’s service benefits to be shown to a potential buyer in a manner that brings out the emotions necessary to make the decision to purchase. Be attentive for a prospective buyer’s stressful moment of indecision and help channel that stress into a buying decision using empathetic questions. Know when to shut up; however. Too much input at that final indecisive moment can cause the loss of the sale. The salesperson who talks too much is usually labeled “pushy.” Be helpful instead.

Selling is far more than a simple job; it is a profession that all businesses should embrace. Most cleaning service owners or their salespeople do not approach buyers as professionals though. Like all professionals, we must study to become experts on our services, bone up on sales techniques, observe carefully, listen hard, and demonstrate our capabilities.

When a potential client has greater skills in these areas, it is far easier for the “NO” word to slip out. “The price is too high,” is rarely the true reason for an offer being refused. Negative responses should always be viewed as a desire for more information, rather than a brick wall. If a customer truly wants the service, can afford it, and turns it down, shame on us for not knowing how to close the sale!

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Water-Fed poles are expensive and they do wear over time.

The newer plastic poles that include fiberglass or carbon fibers are getting older and in need of some basic repairs.

The two most common repairs are:1) Loose Clamps2) Clamps that won’t tighten anymore

Loose ClampsThe typical areas of concern are clamps that

pop off.Most often this is caused by the pole itself

when it is lowered as the clamps bang into each other. One clamp hammers away on another eventually hammering the clamp right off the tube.

The common fix is to remove the clamp, clean up the ends and use JB Weld epoxy to reattach the clamp. Remove any excess existing glue from the tube with a small file.

Extending the Life of your Plastic Water-Fed Pole

This picture shows a field repair where black multi purpose tape (duct tape) is used to hold a clamp that has been

hammered loose onto the tube.

Squeeze two similar sized dollops of JB Weld from the

tubes.

Mix them together with a Popsicle stick, or sometimes easier to find a #2 Pencil with the eraser removed

A tube end ready for glueApply a thin coating to the inside of the

clamp and the outside of the tube. Push the tube and clamp together. Let dry overnight before reassembly.

Clamps that no longer tighten.The next most common issue is with clamps

that no longer clamp.The plastic has elongated and the clamp

ears are touching each other so there is no more adjustment allowed to tighten the clamp.

You can see there is plenty of material in

the clamp ears.

The clamp after the repair.

by J. Racenstein, www.JRacenstein.com

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The task is to remove some of the material from the clamp ears to create a larger gap.

This gap between the clamp ears will allow years of adjustment.

The basic tool you need is a Bastard File 8″ long with a tool handle attached. Yes! “Bastard” is really the tool name and it is important to get that file to make the work easier to perform. Metal files will take 3 times as long. I like wooden tool handles for the way they feel.

This file was $10 at True Value with a $3 handle.

If you do a lot of this a Dremel Tool with a fiber cutoff blade 1.5″ in diameter can be used to speed up the task 50%.

The cutoff blade will be able to get 80% of the widening done. The bastard file will be used to finish the gap neatly.

Use the Dremel tool by inserting the fiber

wheel inside the tight gap and work back and forth until you can easily see a wider gap.

The gap you will want will be the width of the Bastard file. So the task is straight forward, simply run the file back and forth inside the gap where the clamp ears meat until it slides easily, in this case I removed about 1/8″ of material from each ear.

Be sure to run the file all the way through to the gap behind the clamp ears as this will allow the ears full movement.

Reassemble your pole, checking the Levers, Screws and Nuts for wear and replacing as necessary.

This fix will add years to the life of your water-fed pole.

J Racenstein & Co. (“JRC”) is a preeminent distributor of window washing supplies, tools and equipment in the U.S. JRC has been in the business for over 99 years and is nationally recognized as the comprehensive solution to the window washing cleaning industry. To learn more, visit www.jracenstein.com.

34 eClean Magazine

Low water pressure, pump vibration or pulsing power level fluctuations – these are classic signs of problems with pressure washers. Pressure washer owners can prevent disrepair by sticking to a few annual maintenance habits. Below are the steps you should take to keep your power washer in tip-top shape.

Before storing for winter: Run a mixture of half anti-freeze, half water through your power washer’s pump before storing away the machine for the winter months. This will prevent breakage due to freezing while also keeping internal mechanisms well-lubricated and ready for springtime use. You should also drain the fuel completely, or add fuel stabilizer.

Cleaning the air filter: The air filter protects the engine by preventing the entry of contaminants such as dust and dirt. It’s wise to clean your air filter after every four hours of work, and you’ll need to change the filter altogether every three months (or after 100 hours of use). There are two basic types of filters: pleated-paper (just replace them; they can’t be cleaned) and foam (clean with dish soap and hot water, wring dry and saturate with engine oil before putting the filter back in the power washer).

Checking the fuel filter: The fuel filter is also important for clean engine operation. Generally, the fuel filter can be removed, cleaned and replaced, but if there is debris blocking the filter’s inner mesh screen then the whole filter must be replaced.

Checking oil levels: Just as a car won’t operate well without proper levels of oil and other fluids, all brands of pressure washer are the same. Check the oil level before each use. In general, the oil should be changed after 50 hours of use, or at least once per season. The same rules apply for the oil levels within the water pump.

Checking screens for blockages: Regularly check for blockages around the water inlet screen and the in-line screen. Rinse away dirt and other debris with water; if the screen is damaged, it must be replaced.

Annual Maintenance for Pressure Washers

by Paul Horsley, Publisher

Next Month

The Wood Issue