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edible

Special Flood IssueIowa Farmers Markets come Back CSAs Face Big Recovery

Voices from the field

Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods, Season by Season Summer 20

Numbe

Member of Edible Communit

Iowa River Valley

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3/32EDIBLEiowa.COM Summer 2008

ContentsSummer 2008

4 Grist for the Mill

7 Notable Edibles

8 Edible ImbibablesApples and the Art of Sutliff Ciderby Kurt Michael Friese

10 Are you going to San

Francisco?The First Continental Culinary Congresswants youby Brian Halweil

13 MarketWatch:Farmers Markets Salvage a wet seasonby Eugenia E. Gratto

15 Voices from the FieldThe View from the Westby Denise OBrien

16 Voices From the Field

Grinnell Heritage Farmby Andrew Dunham

19 Voices From the FieldColumbus Junctionby Mallory Smith

22 Iowa s Small FarmersResilient to the Endby Brian Morelli

24 Enduring Edibles:The Gerst Family Holds Its Ownby Criss Roberts

26 A Not So Rainy Dayfor One Step at a Time Gardensby Dave Murphy

28 Edible EndeavorsCSAs Show Staminaby Michael Knock

30 Advertiser Directory

on the coverFlooded Farm by Kurt Michael FrieseLooking for Corn

Photo by Criss Roberts

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edible

iowa river

valley

PUBLISHER

Wendy Wasserman

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Kurt Michael Friese

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Criss Roberts

CONTRIBUTORSAndrew DunhamEugenia E. Gratto

Brian HalweilMichael Knock

Brian MorelliDave Murphy

Denise OBrienMelissa PetersenMallory Smith

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Joy Anderson

Andrew Dunham

Carole Topalian

CONTACT US

Edible Iowa River Valley

22 Riverview Drive NEIowa City, Iowa 52240-7973

Telephone: [email protected]

CUSTOMER SERVICE

Edible Iowa River Valleytakes pride inproviding its subscribers with fast,

friendly service.Subscribe Give a Gift Buy an Ad

319.400.2526 [email protected]

Edible Iowa River Valley is published quar-terly by River Valley Press, LLC. All rightsreserved. Subscription rate is $32 annually.Call 319.400.2526 to inquire about adver-tising rates and deadlines or email

[email protected]. No part of thispublication may be used without writtenpermission by the publisher. 2008. Everyeffort is made to avoid errors, misspellings,and omissions. If, however, an error comesto your attention, please accept our sincereapologies and notify us. Thank you.

gristfor the millDear Eater,

Our last issue greeted you with all the fond, hopeful expectations of spring following a harrowing wi

ter. Little did we know that Iowas biggest weather challenges still lay ahead as weeks of drenching rai

would soak nearly every corner of the state.

Our intent for the summer was to bring you an issue dedicated to the wonderful foods along the rou

of the 36th annual RAGBRAI (for the uninitiated, thats the Registers Annual Great Bicycle Ride

Across Iowa), and to bring it to you in mid July. As all of us in Iowa have learned though, Mother Na

ture had other plans, and her plans take precedence.

So in this edition ofEdible, we take anin-depth look at the flooding and its

long-term effects. Voices from the

Field is a special section featuring

three compelling narratives about this

years severe weather. Youll hear from

farmers Andrew Dunham and

Denise OBrien, as well as Iowa

Buy Fresh, Buy Local program

coordinator Mallory Smith.

Regular contributors BrianMorelli, Michael Knock, Criss

Roberts and Dave Murphy also have flood tales for us,

and youll learn ways you can help get Iowas local, sustainable food system back

on its feet.

In happier news, guest contributor Brian Halweil will invite you to the first Continental Culinary

Congress, when Slow Food Nation convenes in San Francisco in late August. Youll also meet Sutliff

Ciders Scott Ervin, whose cider will be highlighted at this impressive gathering.

The ripple effects of the flooding will be felt throughout all our lives for months and years to come.

Here at Edible, some 80 percent of our advertisers were affected either directly or indirectly, especial

places like Hancher Auditorium in Iowa City and Blend and Zins in Cedar Rapids, who as of when went to press, were still awaiting word of when, or even if, they would be reopening. Our thoughts a

with them all, as well as our heartfelt gratitude to them for their continued patronage.

That gratitude extends to our readership as well, for the warm welcome you gave us when we launch

Edibleeight issues ago, and for your continued support not only of us, but of our advertisers. Weshould all be justifiably proud of the way our community has taken care of its own during these trou

bled times. Thank you, Iowa.

With Relish,

Kurt & Wendy

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SUBSCRIBE TODAY

Photocopy this form and send withpayment payable to:

Edible Iowa River Valley22 Riverview Drive NE

Iowa City, IA 52240

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Address

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notable edibles

Field to Family

Celebrates Seven Years in Iowa City

This year marks the seventh annual Field to Family festival in Iowa City.

For nearly two weeks in September, the Johnson County Local Food Al-

liance will offer a series of tours, demonstrations, lectures and other specialevents in celebration of local foods. Field to Family opens on Thursday,

September 4, with the Field to Family Benefit Culinary Walk, a tasty way to

stroll through some of Iowa Citys best restaurants. The festival ends on Sat-

urday, September 20, with a full day of workshops sessions about how to

culture, jam, can, and dehydrate as well as other ways to preserve some of

Iowas best summer flavors for the long winter.

For a complete schedule of events for the two week span, go to

www.JCLFA.org

Fairfield Art Walk

is All Things Local in September

The 1st Fridays Art Walk is a monthly celebration of Fairfields artistic and

entrepreneurial spirit and has been dubbed the Iowa Tourism Event of the

Year. On September 5, 1st Fridays takes on the all things local theme with a

focus on local food, sustainable agriculture, and environmental awareness.

The evening will include tastings of local produce, pies, breads and other

treats. Kids can go to a petting zoo, paint a pumpkin or catch a pony ride or

hay ride. There will be music, raffles, prizes, local vendors, and demonstra-

tions galoreall local all night.

FairfieldArtWalk.com or 641.472.6177

Six Farms, Six Miles, Six Hours

On Sunday, October 5, pack sturdy shoes, a water bottle, and a lot of stam

ina for the Second Annual Farm Crawl. On that day, from 11 am to 5 pm

six family farms in Marion and Lucas counties are hosting coordinated op

house events along a six-mile route about an hour south of Des Moines.Temptations along the Farm Crawl trail include goat cheese tasting at Re-

icharts Dairy Air, apple picking at Schneider Orchards, pig racing at Dan

Farm and pumpkin picking at Pierces Pumpkin Patch. You can also meet

the folks at Blue Gate Farm, or learn more about sustainable land reclama

tion methods at Coyote Run Farm. All in all, a great day in the country,

even if you end up crawling home to the city.

FarmCrawl.com or 641.203.0758

Wear Your Locally Grown

Heart on Your Chest

Locally Grown Clothing, a popular item at the Des Moines Farmers Mar-

ket, is the brainchild of Des Moines entrepreneur Fred Scott. The line of

shirts and other wearables feature a variety of prominent landmarks,

recognizable symbols, and state outlines, each with the trademarked logo

and phrase locally grown. Kids get their own look with Locally Grown

Kids Geardesigns especially suited for the next generation of farmers m

ket shoppers and local food lovers. Locally Grown Clothing is Iowan

through and through designed and printed at SMASH in Des Moines.

LocallyGrownClothing.com

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When floodwaters raged through the Cedar River Valley this season, they did not reach the Sutliff

Cider Mill directly. They did, however, leave a scar. The areas historic claim to famethe scenic

Sutliff Bridgewas washed out, leaving behind a lonely half span reaching out from the west bank

the Cedar River.

Undeterred, Sutliff Cider owner Scott Ervin continued to follow his passion: artisan-crafted ciders

whose ingredient list on the label is a thing of beauty. It reads, simply, Apples.

Hard Cider is an ancient drink, produced for centuries as a way to preserve the annual apple harves

Historically, it was also thought of as a safe alternative to drinking waterwhich was often full of

pathogens that caused illness. In 18th and 19th century America, it was the beverage of choice. In fa

John Chapman, long the stuff of grade school legend as Johnny Appleseedthe simple country bo

spreading joy by spreading appleswas in truth a land speculator and master cider maker taking ad

vantage of laws that gave him claim to lands where he had planted an orchard.

Today cider does not enjoy the popularity it once had, but those who do enjoy it are passionate.

Ervin is chief among them. He crafts his ciders from 100 percent fresh-pressed juice, never from

concentrate, and uses primarily Jonathan, Gala, Macintosh and Cortland apples. Currently he buys

most of his apples from nearby Iowan orchards, but some come from as far as Wisconsin. Ervin also

has his own small orchard, which is just coming into production. His old style rack and cloth pres

helps the flavors stay true to their origin. In this method, several layers of milled apple pulp are buil

up in cloths separated by wooden racks to aid juice flow.

To taste the ciders straight from the barrel, before carbonation, is to wonder whether these are

ciders or wine. The golden color strikes the eye immediately as Ervin pulls his pipette from the to

of the barrel. The nose has the character of a fine Alsatian Riesling: tart apple of course, but also

mineral and herb. On the palate, a depth of character not found in lesser, more commercial ver-

sions of hard cider.

Ervin has been hard at work this summer renovating his 19th century barn into a top-flight tastin

room. He hopes it will be in full operation this fall. In July however, it got a test run, as Sutliff

Cider played host to the 15,000 bicycle riders that flowed right past it on their way from North

8 Summer 2008 EDIBLEiowa.COM

Edible Imbibables:

Apples and the Art ofSutliff Cider

Story and Photosby Kurt Michael Friese

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When the motley horde of salmon smokers, cheese mavens, boutique win

makers, chutney canners, counterculture chefs, guerrilla gardeners, food

gurus and plain old citizens interested in the cosmic change happening to

Americas diet, descends on San Francisco this Labor Day for Slow Food

Nation, it will be a watershed moment in our nations history.

Group it with the march on Washington, Woodstock, the Seattle WTO

protest and other comings together that formed inflection points in the n

tions collective consciousness. Because in the age of food activism, what w

put in our mouths doesnt just sate and please. Its our thrice-daily chance

affect the world around us.

Its the first continental culinary congress, says Gary Nabhan, the Arizo

anthropologist whos been talking about the pleasures of eating local since

before most locavores were even born. When he stopped by the Slow Foo

Nation office recently, he flashed back nearly four decades to the atmos-

phere of the first Earth Day headquarters, complete with boundless intern

tireless brainstorming and sincere faith that we can change the world.

Theres no doubt it will be a good party. The citys Civic Center will be

stocked with aisles of cheeses, olives, wines, breads and honeysmostly li

tle known and beautifully made, but all crafted in the USA. From Buffalo

Flying Bison Brewery beers to Colorado bison jerky, from Mississippi sala

to Texas mozzarella, from Carolina pumpkin chip preserves to Royal Hawian honey, this land was made for you and me.

The legendary Ferry Plaza farmers market will offer an even more exhaus-

tive selection of California foods than usual, from dried Blenheim apricot

to salumi to nut butters of every persuasion. Restaurants from the Mission

to the Haight will feature menus that resonate with the event. Slow on th

Go will sample the citys ethnic eats, from Vietnamese bahn mi sandwiche

to tacos with free-range pork. A banquet for 500 diners will celebrate the

solidarity between rural and urban, farmer and eater.

But it will not just be about the food. On the eco-gastronome spectrum

to borrow a term from Slow Food godfather Carlo Petrinithe Americanbrand of Slow Food has always been more eco than gastronome. Perhaps i

because our food traditions, while they do exist, arent quite as deeply roo

as in the Old Country. Perhaps its also because we seek redemption for ou

dysfunctional eating habits. Like the sinner who gets saved, the United

Statesdysfunctional eating habits and allhas in short order assumed a

leadership role in the international movement founded as a counter-offen

sive to the first McDonalds opening in Rome. Americas 15,000 intrepid

members and 150 chapters nationwide represent the largest contingent ou

side of Italy. (The map of these chapters overlaps closely with a certain

Are you goingto San Francisco?

The First ContinentalCulinary Congress wants you

By Brian Halweil

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growing network of local food magazines.) The New York City Slow Food

chapters membership is second only to Romes.

Buoyed by a quickening appetite for good food, this countrys pantry of

farmstead cheeses, craft beers, single batch spirits, heirloom veggies, and

heritage meats rivals and dazzles its counterparts from Europe. American

chapters have organized some of the movements most innovative programs,

often intervening in cases where the U.S. government has faltered. The Edi-

ble Schoolyard project spurred a national debate about what we feed our

kids, while inspiring a parallel effort back in Italy. In the aftermath of Hur-

ricane Katrina, Slow Food USA created the Terra Madre Katrina Relief

Fund with the help of convivia around the nation, to support Gulf of Mex-

ico food communities; recipients ranged from oystermen and shrimpers try-

ing to get their boats back in the water to African-American farmers who

raise forgotten varieties of sweet potatoes to New Orleans chefs struggling to

retain unique Southern cuisines.

Yes, something may be afoot in American eating habits. Locavore was named

word of the year. More people keep chickens than in recent memory. Your kids

school may have installed a salad bar, and it may actually be stocking that salad

bar with organic greens grown nearby.

We are about to birth a new movement, says event organizer Anya Fer-

nald. And the new movement is about connecting plate and planet. Pleas-ure and politics will pleasantly collide, as people taste, but also strategize.

Activists from across the land will gather to sketch out a national holiday for

picnics and sign a mock dream Farm Bill. Chefs from coast to coast will

take station in the Green Kitchen, armed only with mortar and pestle and a

single burner, crafting essential, simple recipes for busy modern people.

Outside the Civic Center, a 15,000-square-foot organic veggie gardena

modern day Victory Garden at a time of soaring food prices, stubborn

hunger, and warhas come to life. Attendees will literally see the abun-

dance that is possible if we want to dig up our lawns, support a family farm,

or plant a seed.

It will be a heavenly overwhelming display of exactly what it means to eat

and live well. But remember, it will also be a sort of call to arms. So grab

your fork and come to the table.

Brian Halweil is the author ofEat Here: Reclaiming Homegrown

Pleasures in a Global Supermarket. He is the editor ofEdible East End

and publisher ofEdible Brooklyn and Edible Manhattan.

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MarketWatch:

Farmers MarketsSalvage

a wet seasonBy Eugenia E. GrattoPhoto by Kurt Michael Friese

During the first 12 weeks of the 2008 market season, the Burlington

Farmers Market moved not once, not twicein fact, not even three times.

Twelve weeks into the season, were averaging a move every two weeks,

said Judy Parks, Burlington Market Master. But the customers have

been outstandingtheyve found us every place weve been.

Parks, who is experiencing a relentlessly challenging first year as a full-timeMarket Master, has been forced to move the market to avoid areas damaged

by the Mississippi River as it curves through town. Once the flooding river

claimed their regular spot at the base of the Great River Bridge, the market

hopped to the Train Depot. From there the floods chased it off first to a

downtown location, then to a Harley Davidson parking lot and eventually

to Crapo Park, a bluff high above town. On August 7, three months after

market season officially opened, the Burlington market was able to operate

in its original location.

Although the flood waters receded from the river bank a few weeks earlier,

getting the site cleared and cleaned, and getting the bathrooms in working

order, delayed the markets homecoming. No one wants to buy food if [the

market] smells like sewer, said Parks. Its got to smell good, and its got to

be clean.

Flooding also displaced Cedar Rapids farmers markets. Although city-run

markets are open each weekday at Noelridge Park, the Cedar Rapids Down-

town District had plans for a larger Saturday market spanning several square

blocks. Last year, the market was open the first Saturday of the month. This

year the schedule was expanded to twice a month in high season. But, the

late June and July dates were washed away, and the market just reopened

again on August 2 to an impressive crowd of 8,500. Only two scheduled

dates remain this season.

Tammy Neumann, Market Master in Iowa City, said both the crops and the

crowds are back at her market, despite the towns record flooding. However,

some vendors are still suffering hard lossesone vendor in particular lost 60

acres of arable land to the flooding, and he will not be able to recover that

land in future years. Even livestock farmers are suffering.

Our grazing fields were flooded. reported Lois Pavelka, who raises lamb and

pork in Solon for market and for some of the regions top restaurants. Even

when they do dry out, we dont want our flocks on them because we dont

know whats been left behind in the ground.

For the Washington market, flood recovery isnt the big problem. Last year

endless winter is. Bob Shepherd, Washingtons Market Master reported that

the rough winter, followed by the cold, damp spring meant planting delays

and fragile crops. [This year offered] optimum conditions for mold on ber

and rain splash spread diseases like tomato early blight, noted Shepherd.

While he is happy that the crowds do keep coming to Washington, his

biggest concern for the markets future is not the weather, but rather the c

of fuel.

The Washington Farmers Market has always been an open market welco

ing all willing to travel and follow the guidelines. This year, most of our

grower/vendor displays originate from inside 35 miles. Market customers

weve attracted [can come] from 65-70 miles away every week. [But] spea

ing with a few of the [vending and shopping] regulars that travel 45+ mile

one way, theyve made a difficult decision to reduce visits to once a month

Shepherd noted with concern. Weve had very large crowds of market

goers, and our Special Events have had great attendance but Im concern

about the fuel effect.

Despite all the rescheduling, relocating, and recuperating, some of Iowas

farmers markets are reporting record crowds and brisk sales.

[Vendors are] selling out every week, which means people are interested i

buying fresh produce, said Kelly Foss, Market Master for the states bigge

market in Des Moines. During the threat of the flood coming through D

Moines, we did shut down on June 14. That affected us, but we got throu

that and weve been going stronger and stronger every week.

Most Iowa farmers markets will continue their season as scheduled, with

many wrapping up once the first frost hits. Hopefully, this year it wont be

early. Its just been the strangest year, reflects Neumann when thinkingabout her market in Iowa City, It seems like every season weve been expe

encing some kind of devastation.

Eugenia E. Gratto chronicles her adventure in gardening and cooking o

her blog, The Inadvertent Gardener, which can be found at www.TheInad

vertentGardener.com She recently transplanted herself from Iowa City to

Oakland, Calif., where she tells everyone who will listen they have no idea

how good sweet corn can actually be.

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Denise O'Brien, former candidate for Secretary of Agriculture for Iowa

and the founder of the Women, Food & Agriculture Network, is also afarmer in Atlantic. As someone who is committed to Iowa's small farm-

ers, we asked her to tell us what she saw happening to her fellow farmers

as the weather set in, and what she decided to do to help.

Things had been tough during the spring. We

werent able to get the potatoes in on time andgetting any cool weather crops in was nearly

impossible. The cold, wet weather had settled

in and all we could do was wait until it cleared.

From time to time, I would check with my

farmer friends in Linn and Johnson counties

to see how things were with them. I felt very

lucky to have had a tolerable winter compared to what they had gone

through. Ive always wished I were closer to their farms so we could at

least share our lives on a more frequent basis, but after this year, I much

prefer my Western Iowa roots.

I am a weather geek. I spend a fair share of my computer time looking at

radar, clicking on the storm tracks and the animation to see what is coming

and where it is going. My collection of storm pictures this spring has been

phenomenal. It seems like the lows have been centered over our state and

most of the time stationary. When Elywinn Taylor was a regular on WOI

radio, I listened faithfully each week and even called in a time or two.

Its hard to remember when things started to get very serious, but there

was a point in time when it seemed that the wet and cold were here to

stay. The weather pattern was reminding me only too well of the fateful

summer of 1993.

I can pinpoint the day that the reality of the spring hit me full force. It wa

when I heard that a good friends barn had been blown down by gale force

winds. It was the day that a person on the Practical Farmers of Iowa listser

observed some very serious effects of the spring storms and asked the ques

tion: How are things with everyone out there and is there anything we ca

do to help?

The stories started coming little by little as peostarted sharing their experiences and found a sa

place to commiserate with fellow farmers. Stori

like watching the water rise in the pasture for th

fourth or fifth time; having a hoophouse torn

apart by fierce winds; not being able to get the

oats planted, having the first planting of onion

rot and many more. What struck me as I read

these tales of hardship was the writers optimism that things would get bette

and that there were lessons to learn from this powerful weather event that h

torn peoples lives apart. So many farmers I know are teachers by nature and

want to share what happens in order to make things better.

In early June I called Farm Aid to ask if anyone from Iowa had been in

touch with them. The answer was negative and they wondered what was

going on. Soon after a group of people assembled over the phone to make

assessment of situation and decided that there needed to be a disaster relie

fund set up to help those who would slip through the bureaucratic cracks

when it came to assistance.

The Iowa Disaster Relief Fund was set up with Willie Nelson contributing

the first $10,000 to aid farm families. Farmers can download the guidelin

and application, and donors can donate, at the www.IowaFarmRelief.org.

Voices From the Field

The View from the Westby Denise OBrien

Photo by Joy Anderson

The weather pattern wasreminding me only toowell of the fatefulsummer of 1993.

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Grinnell Heritage Farm:A Soggy Situation, But Not Without Hope

Story and photo by Andrew Dunham

In the Autumn, 2007 issue ofEdible Iowa River Valley, writer BrianMorelli met Grinnell farmer Andrew Dunham in his story Grinnells

Grip on Local Food. Although not in the direct path of flooding rivers,the farm was inundated by excessive rains and swelling ground water. Weasked Andrew to tell us about how this seasons severe weather impacted hisbusiness, his customers and his vision for Grinnell Heritage Farm.

Rarely do I get the opportunity to so publicly gripe about the weather, so

when approached to write about the weather difficulties associated with

farming we have faced here in Grinnell over the past nine months, I couldnt

refuse. My wife, Melissa and I own and operate Grinnell Heritage Farm,

Inc, a transitioning-to-organic diversified vegetable operation. I am a fifth-

generation farmer on our 151-year-old family farm, and Ive been farming it

since 2006.

The local foods movement has treated us well. We started 2008 with a

record-breaking 109 subscribers to our CSA program, We had plans to vend

at markets in Iowa City, Cedar Rapids, and Grinnell. We were also plan-

ning to sell directly to seven local institutions and grocers during high sea-

son, including the Mayflower Home (a retirement community in Grinnell),

New Pioneer Co-op, and Grinnell College. We also had visions of putting in

a roadside stand and possibly even making enough money to support our

family from our farm income.

When we were preparing the farm for wintering last year, we were looking

forward to these plans. Our vegetable fields sit at the top of a watershed and

receive no runoff from other places so we had no expectations of excess

moisture. We were just doing the things we normally do once the growing

season ends: such as mulching the garlic and onions, digging root crops, areplacing fence.

Then the autumn rains came, saturating the soils as we went into winter.

Decembers early winter snows melted in January and refroze into a thick

sheet of ice winter: killing over 95 percent of our wintering spinach field

and nearly half of our mulched onions. Then, late winter snows covered a

of our vegetable beds and left a snowdrift nearly 10 feet tall north of our

greenhouse. That drift covered our designated leek bed, and since it didnt

melt until early April, our plantings were delayed by four weeks.

In late March, we decided to start seeding transplants in the greenhouse. Be

cause temperatures were record-breakingly low this spring, we had to continheating the greenhouse through mid-May which meant additional heating

bills. In a typical year, we plant onion seedlings and spinach outdoors in mid

April. But this year, we couldnt even get in the field until late-April/early-M

Unusually low temperatures and saturated soil left the wet ground overly

clumpy and compacted soils when tilled. By June 2, we had planted all of o

cucurbits(cucurbitsare members of the cucumber family, including squashmelons, cucumbers, etc.), but the seeds rotted in the ground when it started

raining again. This time for 12 straight days.

Between June 2 and June 24, we got more than 12 inches of rain. When

stopped, we had lost many of our carrots, nearly all of our salad and arugu

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seedings, sweet corn, and many others. Onions and leeks that had been

planted in already wet soils sat in water for days on end during the rains.Our greenhouse flooded with three to five inches of water. We resorted to

running a sump pump for both the fields and the greenhouse. It ran for over

four days and was pumping roughly eight gallons a minute. We also dug

ditches to divert the water. But our early greenhouse tomato plants had al-

ready lost two flower sets each, reducing our greenhouse tomato yield by

over 1200 pounds.

When it was all over in early July, the fields did dry out. But the farm

looked like a moonscape with six acres of once fertile, rich land now ugly,

compacted soil with huge cracks. We have since replanted what we could

and are trying desperately to catch up on weeding. However, our market

and commercial sales have suffered greatly, our CSA boxes look quite differ-ent than we planned, and the roadside stand is being put on hold until next

year. Our county, Poweshiek, has been declared a disaster (as have so many

others) and we have begun filing paperwork with Farm Service Agency to

make us eligible for any federal farm relief package. We are also trying to re-

coup some of our loss through disaster relief programs. This channel is easier

for conventional row crop farmers to navigate than vegetable farmers be-

cause there is federal crop insurance for corn and soybeans and doing the

field mapping and associated paperwork for these big crops is much easier

than for a diversified farm like ours.

Although our expansion plans have been put on hold for this season and

things are looking slightly different than we had planned, well have tocrunch financial numbers this winter to see what we can do for next year. In

the meantime however, we are still very hopeful about the future and at least

our chard is still dry and happy, and more importantly, available for sale!

AsEdible Iowa River Valleywas going into production in late July, Grin-nell Heritage Farms took on another seven inches of rain in less than aweek. This destroyed a bumper, replanted arugula crop, rotted carrots,and allowed weeds to run rampant over beets. Yet, Andrew remained op-timistic. Every farmer has a year like this, he said with almost achuckle. Well make it through.

When asked what can people do to help farmers like him, Andrew

has a simple answer: Buy your CSA share for next year early

preferably before Christmas. This will give farmers like Andrew a

much needed cash infusion and a plan for the growing season. We

are taking care of our CSA members first, Andrew says. They are

our future.

Grinnell Heritage Farm

1933 Penrose Street, Grinnell

641.236.4374 [email protected]

...the farm looked like amoonscape with six acres of once

fertile, rich land now ugly,compacted soil with huge cracks.

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Columbus JunctionBy Mallory Smith

Photo by Joy Anderson

As the statewide coordinator of Iowa's Buy Fresh, Buy Local Campaigns,

Mallory Smith usually offersEdible Iowa River Valleyreaders anoverview of Iowas various local food initiatives. This season, however,

one of the most important stories affecting Iowas local food system was

happening in her backyard.

I call Columbus Junction home. When I say that, I always hope the re-

sponse will be the place with all the great Mexican food? so I can happily

launch into a detailed description of the culinary delights of this unique

southeast Iowa town. Columbus Junction, population 1,900, is home to 13restaurants (five Mexican) and four grocery stores (three Hispanic).

However, for a couple of weeks this June, my association with Columbus

Junction was often met with a gasp.

Columbus Junction was notorious this summer, but it wasnt for tacos. This

is where the Cedar and Iowa Rivers meet, and as the flood waters came, so

did the journalists and politicians. They seemed amazed with what they

found: hundreds of people in a synchronized effort to build a giant levee to

protect the lower portion of town from the raging river. It was an inspiring

example of community spirit.

Sadly, in the end, the makeshift barrier failed, and over two-dozen busi-

nesses and non-profits were flooded, including the towns largest grocery

store, three restaurants, the farmers market site and the senior meal services

distribution center. When a water treatment facility and a connecting well

were closed, a boil order was imposed.

But the same community spirit that was called upon to protect Columbus

Junction one week was enlisted to help with recovery the next week. During

the floods, a make-shift cafeteria was quickly set up for dozens of National

Guard members and volunteers, and the Red Cross organized daily distri-

bution of bottled water and prepared meals.

Now it is several weeks later, and the flood still lingers. For the next 3

months, Columbus Junction residents need to go to Wapello for grocer

The Mexican stores have to readjust their inventory to meet new de-

mands, and the flooded downtown restaurants will take months to re-

open, leaving regulars looking for a place to eat and employees looking

jobs. Indeed, Columbus Junction, which normally has one restaurant fo

every 150 people, needs to do its own cooking, but without the benefit

a big grocery store.

However, the farmers market is back, filling a critical need for fresh food

and economic development. Held every Friday at the Senior Center park

lot, the market was almost exactly in the center of Columbus Junctions

flood zone. After skipping a week, it reopened on June 20th at the Americ

Legion parking lot on the north end of Main Street. The first week featur

only vendors from the west as the bridge to the east was still closed. By th

second week the bridge was open and the five core vendors were back in

place. And now, the market is more popular than ever

Columbus Junction is a small town making it easy to see how things fit

together. The lesson I imagine coming out of this is the same for many

Iowan communities: that the local food system is a vital part of the com

munitysocially, economically and nutritionally. As the song says, yo

dont know what you got til its gone. How fortunate that what was go

can be rebuilt.

Columbus Junction is a smalltown making it easy to see howthings fit together.

8/14/2019 EIRV 2008-08 - Issue #8


8/14/2019 EIRV 2008-08 - Issue #8


Natural disasters have far reaching consequences, and the flood of 2008 is

no different.

Stories of people and survival and ruined homes may be the first thing to

resonate when they think of the flood of 2008. Forty thousand people wereevacuated from 30 Iowa communities, according to the state. But, in an

agriculture-laden state like this one, the stories of water-logged farmland is

just detrimental and just as sad and the reverberating effect may stretch just

as far.

Take central Iowa, for example.

Peter Hoehnle, a project manager for Iowa Valley Resource Conservation

and Development (Iowa Valley RC&D), said 25,000 acres between

Marengo and Belle Plaine were underwater.

That is the heart of our area, he said.

Iowa Valley RC & D, which is based in Main Amana, works to help peop

protect and develop their economic, natural, and social resources in ways

that better their communitys economy, environment and quality of life.

What weve been hearing is that folks are wrapped up with clean up effoand are frustrated with how slow its going, Hoehnle said in reference to

both aid and clean up efforts.

The Iowa Valley RC & D recently welcomed Farm Aid, a national organi

tion that works to support family farmers. Members of Iowa Valley RC &

took Farm Aid representatives on a tour of flooded farm lands in Iowa and

Benton counties. And country music legend Willie Nelson, probably the

best known Farm Aid advocate, contributed $10,000 towards flood relief

He announced this at an event in June.

I think they were impressed by the damage that was done and quite shock

by it, Hoehnle said.

Iowas small farmersResilient to the End

By Brian MorelliPhoto by Kurt Michael Friese

8/14/2019 EIRV 2008-08 - Issue #8


Every bit helps, and the exposure certainly doesnt hurt, but unfortunately

$10,000 is such a small fraction of the damage. Even with an extra $40,000

the organization hopes to raise, it still barely makes a dent. State officials

have estimated that crop damage could hit $3 billion, and poor crops could

put farm families out of business.

In central Iowa, local farmers keep plugging away. The farmers markets in

this stretch of the state have continued. After a several weeks of limited op-

tions and quantities, the supplies appear to have rebounded.

Everything is very late. For example, we were just picking cherries yester-

day and we should have picked them three or four weeks ago, Hoehnle

said in early July.

But Hoehnle knows farmers are resilient.

I think it kind of goes with the territory. Obviously, this is very unusual, but

when you are a farmer this is a risk you take. People are preoccupied by the

flood, but we continue to plan and move forward.

Other parts of the state are finding similar fortunes. In Tama County the

crops could be small this year, but the biggest impact appears to be that pro-

duction is going to be late.

Earl Sievers has a small organic growing operation in Toledo and works for a

grain elevator. Sievers has been touring farms in the Tama County area. The

flooding will likely cause a smaller yield this year, he said, because prior to the

floods there was lots and lots of rain.

In our area here pretty much all of them, Sievers said of who is affected. It

is kind of unfortunate because this is a year where farmers have a chance to

get some good prices, and here they are without a full yield.

They are not going to be able to realize the full benefit.

The saving grace amidst all of the flooding is the high grain

prices, particularly for corn growers. The small crops will

not be quite as devastating for them.

Farmers are seeing a delayed season as the biggest challenge

after the smaller yields,

The big thing was everything was delayed. A lot of the

crops got put in late. That is going to hurt some of the

fields. The things that were planted just kind of sat there.

There was not a lot of sunshine, Sievers said. I think we

are going to see less yield, especially in this area. A lot of

farmers couldnt get to their fields to put things in.

But, it wasnt a total loss, and things are starting to look up,

he said. Just now crops are starting to look a lot better, hesaid in mid July.

Heading east, the attention is a lot more prominent. Flood-

ing in the Cedar Rapids-Iowa City corridor, particularly

downtown Cedar Rapids and roughly one-third of Univer-

sity of Iowa campus were a mainstay on the national news

networks for a few days.

However, farmlands in Johnson and Linn counties fared a

bit better than their urban neighbors and agricultural lands

in other parts of the state.

My understanding is our farmers have fared well. Very few have been af-

fected by flood, said Leah Wilson with Johnson County Local Food Al-

liance. I think it points to the strength of the diversity of the farms to be

able to handle such adverse weather.

Coping with such a crisis is difficult, both during and after. The recovery w

be long and costly. But one thing is for sure, Mother Nature loves Iowas lo-

cally grown foods, and she will hasten their return.

Brian Morelli is a journalist who covers university news for the Iowa CityPress-Citizen. A recent University of Iowa graduate, Morelli has a major in

journalism and minor in political science. Prior to writing, Morelli traveled

for several years primarily in the U.S. and Canada, and he cooked professio

ally at several restaurants across the country. He currently resides in Iowa Ci

with his wife and two children.

The recovery will be long andcostly. But one thing is for sure,

Mother Nature loves Iowas locallgrown foods, and she will hasten

their return.

8/14/2019 EIRV 2008-08 - Issue #8


On the edge of Gerst Familyscornfield in Des Moines

County, is the Mississippi

River, still swollen weeks after

floodwaters covered nearly

17,000 acres of farmland a

few miles north. Behind the

farmhouse, past a picture-per-

fect field of sweet corn, a long

white line of sandbags re-

mains. That sand levee saved

the GerstsFred, Susan,

their seven children and

their160 acre farmfrom

this years deluge.This sum-

mer, even before the devas-

tating flood waters began

receding out of sight, the

Gersts had to take out

hoses to water their crops.

We were fighting a flood and

watering at the same time,

Susan said.

Fred also had previous experience

with the Mississippis fury. In

1965, when Fred was 11, he stood by the familys barn, watching the levee

break. The water spilled over a mile of the loamy soil and crested at 21.5

feet that yearfour feet lower than this years record. In 1993, things were

only marginally better when the bad luck of a burst levee in Burlington

took pressure off the river at the Gersts farm and their levee held.

This year, the water climbed higher and higher, lapping at the top of the

levee, and seeping through the bottom. As in 1993, a levee burstthis time

across the river in Gulfport, IL, again rerouting the brunt of the still-climb-ing floodwaters away from the family farm.

As the water continued to rise in mid-June, the family turned from farming

to fighting, letting the weeds take over their fields, leaving the weekly

rounds of farmers markets and produce auctions on hold while they first

cleared out the lower levels of their house, moved the animals and built bar-

riers around their gardens. Then, they spread out into the neighborhood to

helpdoing whatever they could.

Fred was doing more than double duty. In addition to farming, he is a

Commissioner for the local drainage district, a thankless job that consists

in most yearsof sittingthrough bone-dry meeting

In the spring, the drainage

district got an official repor

which said it was unlikely

there would be flooding this

year. By early June, they knew

that was wrong, and soon

thereafter, Fred spent some

nights on levees with flashligh

and neighbors, praying they

would hold.

The Gersts are the second gene

ation to work these 160 acres

north of Burlington. Fred grew

on the farm, planting the corn

and beans in federally approved

rotations.

That changed over the years. Whe

Susan began to rethink the way sh

fed her family, opting for natural a

organic, it forced the family to re-

consider its farming practices. The

chemicals became a last resort.

I had to relearn how to use a culti

tor, Fred said. We farmed for 30 years the traditional way, but we knew in

our hearts it wasnt good.

The Gersts work constantly to make their small farm viable. And its the

sweet corn on which theyve staked their reputation. The Gerst corn is in

such demand that market-goers are known to line up 40-deep for three

hours on the first day it is available. Last year, they had a constant supply

corn from mid-July through October, a bounty which carried them throu

most of the indoor fall market.

I was picking corn in one field and Fred was planting corn [in another],

Susan said of last years corn marathon. I could have killed him.

The Gersts knew that flooding is always a possibility where property boun

aries are marked by rivers. But the chances of flooding like this, during wh

some are now calling a 1000-year flood, are only .001 percent in any give

year. Long odds, and worth the gamble.

Its some of the most productive land in the world, Fred Gerst said. An

you just figure its never gonna flood.

Enduring Edibles:

The Gerst Family holds its ownStory and photo By Criss Roberts

We were fighting a flood andwatering at the same time

8/14/2019 EIRV 2008-08 - Issue #8


But it did.

As floods spilled through Cedar Rapids, Iowa City and Columbus Junction,

south east Iowa started preparing. The Iowa River was causing tremendous

damage upstream. Particularly once the Coralville Reservoir opened its gates

to relieve flooding in Iowa City, and the water was heading south to

Oakville, where the Iowa River meets the Mississippi.

It was Oakville where some of the most emotional flood photos were taken,

hogs stretched out on the steel roofs of submerged buildings or swimming

for their lives. Just before the waters went out of control, donated trucks

hauled pork-stuffed semi-trailers out of the area. While the hog caravan

rolled out, volunteers flowed in from out of state to pack up.

In the scheme of things, the Gersts actually had it easier than most. Sure

they lost their first planting of green beans, to suffocating weeds. And after a

few days of serious weeding the rest of the garden continued producing with

abandon, and now, the Gersts are awash in beans, broccoli, cabbage, and of

course, corn.

Gerst Family Farm

Fred & Susan Gerst

8261 125th Street, Burlington

319.754.4958

Criss Roberts, a Chicago native, married into an Iowa farm family. She

lives in Burlington, where she writes for various publications and websites

about local food.

Freezing corn on the cob

Thanks to the long winter and the wet spring, this years growing sea-

son is a little shorter than usual. One way to keep summer alive is to

preserve sweet corn.

Blanche husked ears in a big pot of boiling water. (Small ears should

boil for 7 minutes, large ones for 11 minutes). Cool immediately in an

ice bath. In a sealed bag, either freeze the corn cob whole, or shave

kernels off for corn niblets.

8/14/2019 EIRV 2008-08 - Issue #8

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8/14/2019 EIRV 2008-08 - Issue #8


Libbey estimates that the farms losses this year could top 15 percent of their

annual yield. Yet she remains optimistic, responding with the care and dili-gence of someone who loves the land and cares about the quality of produce

they deliver to their customers.

Farming isnt a science, its an art, says Libbey, thinking about her lifes

passion. You respond by trying to use some creativity to make things work.

Weve had to start things over in the hoop house or plow beds under, but

you can always make up for it.

One way One Step At A Time Gardens avoided even bigger losses was by

having a diversified crop plan.

Fortunately, CSA [farms] are diversified enough crop-wise that if one

crop doesnt work, then another one can pick up the slack. We try tomake it so our members have enough produce in their basket each week

with plenty of variety.

Unless it rains more, One Step At A Time Gardens has a lot to offer for the

rest of the summer: tomatoes (over 11 varieties including Cherokee Purple,

Big Beefy, Celebrity, Goldie, Brandywine, Aunt Rubys German Green,

Pineapple, Green Zebras and Early Girl), spinach, lots of lettuces, winter

squash, zucchini, sweet beans, yellow beans, sugar snap peas, carrots, gree

onions, green garlic, red garlic, peppers and eggplant, and at least three

types of potatoes.

For Libbey, this season was indeed far from a wash. Maybe this is an oppor

tunity for change, says Libbey, for a major change in our food system. If

there really is a movement in society afoot regarding local foods and buildin

a network for that, then we have to do what we can to support that.

And for Libbey and Landgraf each seasonwith its challenges and re-

wardshelps make that system stronger, one step at a time.

One Step at A Time Gardens

1465 120th Street, Kanawha

641.495.6367 OSTGardens.com

Dave Murphyis a sixth generation Iowan and an advocate for sustain-able agriculture. When not roaming the Iowa countryside, he spends hi

time in Des Moines, Okoboji, and Clear Lake.

Libbey estimates that the farmslosses this year could top 15percent of their annual yield.Yet she remains optimistic...

Photo by One Step at A Time Gardens.

8/14/2019 EIRV 2008-08 - Issue #8


It was the hardest email Mark Armstrong ever had to write.

Armstrong and his wife, Barbara Grant, run Acoustic Farms, a 40-acre farm

two miles east of Springville. As a small operation, they produced peas,

onions, spinach, Swiss chard, lettuce, bok choy, tomatoes, potatoes, squash,and mushrooms for 15 CSA customers in 2007, the first year of Acoustic

Farms Community Service Agriculture program. Things went so well, they

cautiously expanded their list of customers to 20 for 2008.

And then the rains came.

We couldnt get into our fields, Grant explained. The seeds wouldnt ger-

minate because it was too cold. Some came up valiantly, but they would stay

about an inch high.

When the rain stopped, the soil became compactedArmstrong compared

it to cementmaking it hard to replant.

So, in June the couple finally decided to write the email to announce what

Armstrong had been dreading: Acoustic Farms CSA was suspending delivery

of fresh produce.

To write that email that said we couldnt deliver the produce was the hard-

est thing Ive ever done, Armstrong said. It was devastating. It brought

tears to my eyes before I pushed that send button. We probably should have

personally called each and every customer, but I couldnt do that.

Acoustic Farms wasnt alone. Heavy rains washed out crops and roads dis-

rupting CSAs across eastern Iowa and causing some to reduce the amount

of fresh produce that they offer and others to cease distribution entirely.

Even areas that escaped most of the heavy rains have been affected by 200

strange weather patterns. Most of Iowa suffered through a tough winter th

produced record snowfalls and a cooler-than-normal spring. That got cro

off to a slow start.

Germination was very poor from the very beginning, said Denise OBri

who runs a small CSA near Atlantic. The carrots and the lettuce didnt d

very well. We postponed one week of CSA distribution. But its getting b

ter now.

Laura Krouse agreed. Krouse runs Abbe Hills Garden, a CSA for 150 fam

lies near Mt. Vernon. She said that she initially had the same problems as

everyone else: cool temperatures and too much rain. The rains were an e

pecial problem because they eroded away much of her topsoil. Still, her g

den has recovered.

If it lived and it grew, its fabulous Krouse said.

Still, she added, everything in her garden continues to be a few weeks be-

hind. She said that her customers have been very understanding.

In fact, she said thats where the genius of Community Supported Agricu

ture can be seen. The customers who buy shares in CSAs also accept a shain the risk of farming, and a big part of that risk is the weather.

The beauty of the CSA is that customers absorb some of the risk, Krou

said. There is no other way to reduce the risk of farming.

Armstrong and Grant agreed. Both emphasized that their CSA customers

had been incredibly understanding about their decision to suspend produ

deliveries. Still, they said that this year had been frustrating. While some

their cropssweet corn, potatoes, onions, and garlic, for examplelook

good, others are probably lost for the season. They replanted some crops

many as six times, but each time the rains washed them out. Frustration l

that can take a toll on a person.

It knocks the wind out of you, Grant said. You dont get that year back

so its tough.

Im a very upbeat person, Armstrong continued. Barb told me a coupl

of times, you need to get out of the house. Youre getting depressed. Go

out and talk to your friends.

Monetary support for CSAs and other small farmers is out there. Singer

Willie Nelson met with farmers at Tama in late June and pledged the sup

port of Farm Aid to help farmers affected by this seasons weird weather. S

has the Iowa Farm Disaster Relief Coalition, a group of 12 different mid-

western organizations that includes Buy Fresh Buy Local and Edible IowRiver Valley. Slow Food USA has turned its Terra Madre Relief Fund, orinally created to help victims of Hurricane Katrina, toward Heartland flo

relief. Chris Taglia, a resource conservationist with Iowa Valley Resource

Conservation and Development in Main Amana, said farmers should also

talk to their local soil and conservation officers about what additional ass

tance might be available to them.

Non-traditional farmers arent used to going to those offices, Taglia said

They may think they dont qualify. But [this years weather] is going to

have a huge adverse impact on our area. People need to get as much supp

as they can.

Edible Endeavors

CSAsShow Stamina

By Michael KnockPhoto by Carole Topalian

8/14/2019 EIRV 2008-08 - Issue #8


And, for some, there is always the option of replanting again.

Even today, we were debating, Should we replant or not? Grant said. Its

not for lack of seeds. In a way its the disappointment you face. Do we want

to get our hopes up again? Its kind of like falling in love. How many times

do you want to put your heart on the line just to get your hopes dashed?

Still, Grant is hopeful that despite the trials of 2008, theres always next year.

Theres the Thomas Jefferson quote, I may be an old man, but I am always

a young gardener, Grant said. That means, hope. Weve always got to

have hope.

Michael Knockis a lifelong Iowan who grew up learning how to cook

while standing on a kitchen chair at his mother's side. He writes the

weekly food column for the Iowa City Press-Citizen.

The Iowa Farm Disaster Relief Coalition is accepting donations and

relief applications at IowaFarmRelief.org.

Slow Foods Terra Madre Relief Fund is at SlowFoodUSA.org.

8/14/2019 EIRV 2008-08 - Issue #8


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and Visitors Bureau900 1st Ave.

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