B Y J O I M A H O N

Build rich designs with embroidery and appliqué

Layer dimensional appliqués, made from freestanding embroidery designs, on top of a machine-embroidered lace motif stitched on a sheer fabric to create this stunning 3-D effect. When you make

your own lace, you have an unlimited combination of colors and styles to choose from, so you can create an embellishment that coordinates with your fashion fabric perfectly. Purchased lace can be expensive, and purchased lace with dimensional appliqué is even more so. Not only is this technique customizable to your taste and style, it won’t break the bank. Use this technique to create statement sleeves, as in the sample, or a stunning illusion neckline or lace skirt overlay. You are limited only by the embroidery capa-bilities of your machine. Let’s take a look at how to make your own appliqué-embellished lace. If you don’t have an embroidery machine, I’ll explain how to achieve the effect with purchased lace and trim.

Joi Mahon is a designer based in Sioux City, Iowa. DesignerJoi.com

FABRIC REQUIREMENTSFor a truly lacy effect, you need sheer fabric that is strong enough to withstand machine embroidery but soft enough to be comfortable. If the fabric is too delicate, it could cause needle jams or skipped stitches, and the finished design may not be as neat or as long-lasting. Stretch mesh, netting, tulle, and even organza are suitable. If the area to be embellished needs to have give, choose a stretch material, such as stretch mesh. For example, a fitted dress bodice with dimensional lace overlay requires stretch to allow movement.

Pick the materialsThis technique works best with specific garment and fabric types. Some experimentation may be necessary to determine the best materials for your desired look.

SELECT A GARMENT PATTERNStart with a simple pattern with few details so the attention is on the embellishment. Consider where you would like to place the dimensional lace and look for designs that do not have darts or pleats in that area. Sleeves and necklines are a great place to start, but you can use this technique on most parts of a garment.

CHOOSE A LACE DESIGNThe key to success is the embroidered lace background that forms the base of the embellishment. The design should have a delicate, open pattern. If it is too busy, the dimensional appliqué does not have the same impact, and the fabric may not be able to support the stitch density. Look for a design with an outline stitch and minimal fill stitches for best results.

Most designs for lace are available in smaller hoop sizes, which means you can stitch the lace in small sections. If your embroidery machine has a larger hoop, you can use customizing software to combine smaller designs into a single larger design to reduce the number of hoopings.

Determine the design

DIMENSION WITHOUT MACHINE EMBROIDERYIf you do not have an embroidery machine, you can use purchased lace yardage. Some meshes or organzas can be purchased with lace embroidered on them. Use this as the base layer, and find complementary or contrasting premade appliqués to embellish it. Lace or

embroidered yardage or trim may be a good source of appliqué motifs.

Hand-tack or machine-tack each motif on the embroidered background material in the desired layout. Keep appliqués away from the seam allowances.

This technique works in many colors and sizes. As you play with ideas to find what works best for your project, these guidelines can help you plan great dimensional lace designs.

EMBELLISHMENTS

An embroidery motif with light outlines and no fill stitches creates a lacy background that’s soft and supple.

Embroidery design: M17518, EmbLibrary.com

Sleeves, bodices, and even skirts can showcase dimensional lace.

Pattern: author’s original design. Fabric: blouse-weight silk (bodice), Haberman Fabrics, Clawson, Michigan; stretch mesh (sleeves), author’s stash.

Dimensional lace

A P R I L /M AY 2 0 1 9 21www.threadsmagaz ine . com20 T H R E A D S © 2019 The Taunton Press, Inc. No reproduction without permission.

CARE FOR YOUR GARMENT

Because of the added weight of the dimensional embroideries, machine washing can potentially damage or stretch out the garment, even if the fabric can withstand machine washing or drying. I recommend handwashing in cold water and drying the garment flat for best results. You may need to press the embroidery after washing.

EMBELLISHMENTS c o n t i n u e d

Stitch the lace background

ARRANGE THE LACEThe size of the background lace design determines the overall layout on the garment section. Trace the pattern pieces onto the fabric with chalk or other removable marking tool to ensure accurate placement. Apply water-soluble stabilizer and hoop the fabric. Embroider the designs, rehooping as needed.

REMOVE THE STABILIZERWhen the machine has finished embroidering, remove the fabric from the hoop and trim as much stabilizer as possible before soaking the piece in warm water to dissolve the rest. Remove the fabric from the water and pat it dry. Cover the damp fabric with a press cloth and press with an iron on a low setting.

Add depth with embroidered appliquéUse machine embroidery to create the 3-D appliqués. Make sure your chosen embroidery is a freestanding lace design, as a standard embroidered motif will not hold together without a fabric base. Freestanding lace designs begin with a layer of base stitches that support the design without fabric or stabilizer. Hoop wash-away stabilizer to support the freestanding embroidery while it is stitched. If the motif is delicate, add a layer of fine netting in addition to the stabilizer. The netting supports the embroidery

after the stabilizer is washed away. Make as many appliqués as desired to create the design, plus several extras. For this blouse, I made approximately 95 flowers for each sleeve.

Hand- or machine-tack the appliqués to your embroidered lace background, then sew the design according to the directions. Add more appliqués when the piece has been finished, if desired.

Stretch mesh’s translucency provides an airy background to dimensional embellishment.

USE WASH-AWAY STABILIZEROpt for a water-soluble stabilizer for the background lace stitching and dimensional appliqué. Most background lace patterns require medium-weight stabilizer, but test to make sure that the weight is sufficient to ensure even stitching. The dimensional appliqués require heavy-duty stabilizer.

CHOOSE APPLIQUÉ MOTIFSSelect a freestanding embroidery motif to create the appliqués that will be attached to the foundation lace. I like flowers because they go nicely with lace designs and can be modified to suit the feeling I’m going for. You could also create leaves or geometric shapes depending on your aesthetic.

SELECT COLORSStretch mesh comes in many colors, so select a base for the lace that complements or matches your fashion fabric. Next, determine the colors for the embroidered lace foundation and the appliqués. A good rule is to choose three colors: two neutral colors and one bright color that adds contrast to the design. The contrast among colors is important to achieve this technique’s 3-D effect. You can have a large bed of color with smaller, subdued designs layered on top, or the reverse. A monochromatic palette, while beautiful, does not add as much depth and dimension as a design with multiple colors.

Test the embroidery on scrap fabric and the stabilizer before beginning on the fashion fabric. If you have a problem with stitching, adjust the thread tension or stabilizer and try again.

Arrange the dimensional appliqués so that the lace background peeks through.

Contrasting appliqués intensify the 3-D effect.

Arrange the lace embroidery in rows, or play with a more random arrangement.

Embroidery design: author’s original.

22 T H R E A D S © 2019 The Taunton Press, Inc. No reproduction without permission. www.threadsmagaz ine . com

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