emulsifiers for skin care

7/30/2019 Emulsifiers for Skin Care

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Emulsi rs rSki C rA lic ti s


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Emulsi rs r Ski C r A lic ti sThe majority of Skin Care products and a very signicant percentage of toiletry products are emulsions. The basic componenthese formulations are emulsiers, emollients and consistency enhancers. Additional value can be given to these formulationsincluding active ingredients with specic dermatological effects. The selection of these components determines the success oformulation. The chosen emulsier is not only crucial for the stability of an emulsion, but has also a large impact on consiste

skin feel and care properties of a formulation. Emulsiers have a wide range of applications in cosmetic products. They are uscreams, lotions, sprays and foams that can be of the oil-in-water (O/W) or the water-in-oil (W/O) type.

This brochure will help facilitate the selection of the Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care emulsier that is most suitable fodesired application.

T HLB Syst mAn emulsion is a dispersion of droplets of a non-miscible liquid in a continuous phase. The polar (hydrophilic) aqueous phasethe non-polar (lipophilic) oil phase of an emulsion cannot be combined in a stable and homogenous way without a surface-acadditive.

Emulsiers are interfacially active substances that reduce the interfacial tension between the oil and the water phase. The emulsiis adsorbed at the interface, giving a lm between both phases, which prevents coalescence of neighbouring droplets. Due to amphiphilic structure, the polar part of the emulsier has an afnity to the water phase and the non-polar part of the emulsiethe oil phase.

Emulsiers can be dened according to their hydrophilic/lipophilic characteristics. In W.C. Grifn proposed the H(Hydrophile Lipophile Balance) system in which non-ionic surfactants have been classied on a scale from to . Emulwith a strong lipophilic character have low HLB values between to and tend to form W/O emulsions. Emulsiers of the range of to are hydrophilic and prove most suitable for O/W emulsions. HLB values from to are most favourabsolubilization.

Figure : HLB System according to W. C. Grifn

HLB Value Use as

. Antifoaming agent W/O emulsier Wetting agent O/W emulsier

Wash active substance Solubilizer for aqueous systems


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T M l cul r W ig tAnother important basic property of emulsiers is their molecular weight, the most noticeable impact is the heat stability of W/Oemulsions. Increasing the molecular weight of W/O emulsiers increases the heat stability of W/O emulsions. Experimental workon emulsions show that the highest stability of W/O emulsions could be obtained by using polymeric, polyfunctional emulsiersuch as ABIL EM (Cetyl PEG/PPG- / Dimethicone) and ISOLAN PDI (Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl- Dimer Dilinoleate).

As shown in the graph (Figure ), emulsions based on ISOLAN PDI are stable up to C. By using ABIL EM as an emulsierit is possible to produce cosmetic formulations with a heat stability up to C. The stabilizing potential of the organic, lomolecular weight W/O emulsiers TEGIN OV (Glyceryl Oleate) and ISOLAN GI (Polyglyceryl- Isostearate) is lower (onlyup to C).

The high emulsion stabilizing effect of ABIL EM and ISOLAN PDI is most likely due to the strong adsorption on the interfacewhich results from its amphiphilic, polymeric structure. This is an advantage over the monofunctional partial esters which hamolecular weights between and .

Figure : Emulsion stability in correlation to the molecular weight of the emulsier

M l cul r w ig t (g/m l)

60

50

40

30

U p p e r l i m i t o f s t a b i l i t y ( o C )

100 500 1000 5000 10000

ABIL EM

ISOLAN PDI

ISOLAN GI

TEGIN OV


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A lic ti sWith Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care emulsiers, either oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions can be preparedAlso some specic emulsion types such as triple emulsions or water-in-silicone emulsions can be formulated. Depending on theemulsier different application forms can be realized: creams, lotions, sprayable emulsions and impregnating liquids for wet wipes.

Typical elds of application encompass body and skin care, sun care, after sun treatment, decorative cosmetics and deodoranantiperspirants.

Emulsi rs L dscThe landscape in Figure should provide the cosmetic formulator a use-oriented overview of W/O and O/W emulsiers.A representative selection of emulsiers are characterized according to their properties:

The averaged theoretical molecular weight in g/mol is plotted on the y-axis. The HLB value on a scale from to is plottethe x-axis. W/O emulsiers have a low HLB value between to . Emulsiers of the HLB range of to are suitable for including cationic emulsion.

The colors differentiate the emulsiers by their chemistry.Silicone based emulsiers ( ) are depicted in orange andvegetablebased products ( ) are colored in grey.Vegetable based, PEG-free emulsiers ( ) appear in green color. The deep purplecolor corresponds tocationic emulsiers ( ).

The different shapes represent the physical form of the emulsier. The circle visualises a liquid emulsier, square shape stands fsolid emulsier and the triangle indicates a pasty material.

The table also contains information for which application creams, lotions and sprays which emulsier is best suited for. Furtherit informs which emulsiers have already been certied by ECOCERT the leading independent international environmenorganization based in France. It is currently the largest environmental control and certication organization in Europe and it woin different countries all over the world. ECOCERT follows ISO Guide (EN ).

Our ECOCERT approved product list besides emulsiers can also be found at our webpage:www.evonik.com/personal-care

Molecular weight HLB value Chemistry Physical form Application form ECOCERT approved


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20000

10000

1000

500 M o l e c u l a r w e i g h t [ g / m o l

]

= silic b s d = v g t bl b s d= v g t bl b s d, PEG- r = c ti ic

17

14

11

10

8

12

19

18

20

1513

6

4

5

2

1

37

16

9

5 10 15 20

Figure : Emulsiers Landscape

No. Trade Name Application form ECOCERT approved

ABIL EM X X ABIL WE X X ABIL EM X X ISOLAN GPS X X X ISOLAN PDI X X ISOLAN GI X X

ABIL Care X X X AXOL C X X X X TEGO Care CG X X X X

TEGO Care X X X TEGO Care PS X X X TEGIN Pellets X X X TEGINACID C X TEGINACID H X X TEGO Care X X TEGO Care LTP X X X X TEGO Emulprot X X X

VARISOFT TA X X TEGO Care CE X X VARISOFT PATC X X

Cr m L ti S r y

HLB v lu

= liquid= s lid= st


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Emulsi rs r W/O Emulsi sDespite the fact that oil-in-water emulsions still dominate the cosmetic market, water-in-oil emulsions are favored when a greaemolliency is desired in Night Creams, Nappy/Diaper Rash emulsions or All Weather Creams.

Ev ik G ldsc midt P rs l C r Emulsi rs

The excellent stabilizing potential of the polymeric and polyfunctional organosilicone emulsiers combined with their speapplication properties (excellent spreading and lm forming, skin feel) gives them an essential role in many cosmetic formulatio

ABIL EM and ABIL WE are suitable for the preparation of Multiple Emulsions of the water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) typeor the oil-in-water-in-oil (O/W/O) type. One of the most interesting possibilities of these triple emulsions is the gradual release water-soluble or oil-soluble active ingredients from the internal phase.

The importance of natural, PEG-free raw materials for skin care cosmetics has strongly increased. Polyglycerol esters and glucoseesters of natural fatty acids are the emulsiers of choice for W/O emulsions when good application properties linked with htemperature stability and exibility of phase-volume ratio is afforded. ISOLAN GI is especially suitable for W/O creams. Thewell-known emulsier ISOLAN PDI is used in a wide range of applications such as creams and lotions in Skin Care. ISOLAN GPSis especially designed for the formulation of low viscous W/O lotions with very low oil phase content (down to %).

Vegetable based, PEG-free emulsiers

ISOLAN PDI (Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl- Dimer Dilinoleate) ISOLAN GI (Polyglyceryl- Isostearate) ISOLAN GPS (Polyglyceryl- Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate)

Organosilicone emulsiers

ABIL EM (Cetyl PEG/PPG- / Dimethicone) ABIL WE (Polyglyceryl- Isostearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG- / Dimethicone, Hexyl Laurate) ABIL EM (Bis-PEG/PPG- / Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane)


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Fi lds A lic tiB dy d F ci l C rStable Body and Facial Care products can be formulated with all Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care W/O emulsiers. Therefothe choice of emulsiers for specic applications depends on the desired properties of a formulation (e.g. stability, viscosity, skifeel), on the desired processing and on the type of chemical structure of the emulsier a formulator wants to use.

B by C rBaby Care formulations should provide a good protection of the baby skin combined with a high caring effect and a rich skin feAs green and natural products the vegetable based, PEG-free polyglycerol/glucose esters of the ISOLAN family are recommendableemulsiers for Baby Care applications. Baby Creams and Nappy Rash Creams based on ISOLAN PDI and ISOLAN GI impart arich skin feel and are compatible with active ingredients. With ISOLAN PDI the formulation of W/O lotions with a brilliant whiteappearance, good caring properties and a rich skin feel is possible.

Su C rPleasant light and silky Sun Care creams and lotions with low fatting properties can be formulated with the organosiliconeemulsiers ABIL EM and ABIL WE . Sun Care emulsions with a high SPF can be formulated based on ABIL EM and

ABIL

WE due to their compatibility with high amounts of organic and inorganic UV lters. The high hydrophobicity and tgood stabilizing potential of these emulsiers allow the formulation of waterproof Sun Care products.

D c r tiv C sm ticsThe organosilicone emulsiers ABIL EM , ABIL EM and ABIL WE are the ideal emulsiers for light make-up formulations.In Decorative Cosmetics like foundations often high contents of silicone oils are used. While ABIL EM is mainly recommendedfor W/Si emulsions, ABIL EM is known to give excellent stabilities in W/O as well as in W/Si formulations. Therefore mixturesof ABIL EM and ABIL EM have often proved to be favorable in Decorative Cosmetics. ABIL EM and ABIL WE arealso known to be excellent emulsiers to obtain waterproof make-up and foundation formulations.

D d r ts/A ti rs ir tsABIL EM plays a key role in the formulation of water-in-silicone emulsions for the application Deodorants/Antiperspirants.Depending on the composition of the water-in-silicone formulation clear emulsions (gels) or white emulsions with a silky soft feelincan be obtained.

Antiperspirant formulations based on ABIL EM provide fast release of the active with a high shelf stability for the emulsion.The fast release of AP-active from ABIL EM based emulsions has been proven in tests.


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Additi l B tsSki F lParticular light and silky W/O creams and lotions with a soft, dry, non-sticky skin feel and low fatting properties can be formulwith the organosilicone emulsiers of the ABIL family. Especially ABIL EM is known to provide an elegant silky softcharacter to emulsions.

For the formulation of emulsions with a particular rich skin feel as desired for Night Creams, All Weather Creams or Baby Cr we recommend to use the ISOLAN polyglycerol esters such as ISOLAN GI and ISOLAN PDI.

W/O Lotions with a pleasant very light, non-oily skin feel can be obtained using ISOLAN GPS.

E c ll t H t/Fr z St bilityAs shown in Figure , the heat stability of W/O emulsions is signicantly improved by using polymeric, polyfunctional emulswith a high molecular weight. The best available option to formulate emulsions with an excellent heat stability (depending on formulation up to + C) is therefore the organosilicone emulsier ABIL EM .

As a PEG-free, vegetable based alternative to ABIL EM the polymeric polyglycerol ester ISOLAN PDI is recommended.Depending on the formulation a heat stability up to + C can be reached.

With both emulsiers freeze stabilities of - C can be obtained. A high emulsion stabilizing effect is also given with ISOLAN GPS.

C ld Pr c ssi gWorking with wax-free formulations in a cold emulsication process is becoming more and more important for mass-market Wlotions. Since the Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care emulsiers ABIL EM , ABIL WE , ABIL EM , ISOLAN PDI andISOLAN GPS are liquid, they are well suited for such cold processed formulations. As stabilizer Zinc Stearate proved to be meffective.

Emulsi rs r O/W Emulsi sWorldwide, the type of emulsion most often produced and used is of the oil-in-water variety. O/W emulsions include the mocommon types of cosmetic creams and lotions, as well as sprayable emulsions and impregnating liquids.

Ev ik G ldsc midt P rs l C r Emulsi rs

The silicone based, liquid product ABIL Care combines the characteristics of an O/W emulsier with an added value concerningthe velvety skin feel which can be obtained in emulsions based upon it.

Organosilicone Emulsier

ABIL Care (Bis-PEG/PPG- / PEG/PPG- / Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)


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Vegetable based, PEG-free Emulsiers

AXOL C (Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) TEGO Care CG (Cetearyl Glucoside) TEGO Care LTP (Sorbitan Laurate, Polyglyceryl- Laurate, Dilauryl Citrate) TEGO Care (Polyglyceryl- Methylglucose Distearate)

TEGO

Care PS (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) TEGO Emulprot (Sodium Citrate, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Xanthan Gum, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum,Magnesium Stearate)

TEGIN Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate SE)

These green and PEG-free emulsiers have application in all possible types of O/W formulations.

AXOL C is a food grade emulsier which is based on natural raw materials. By using AXOL C Pellets it is possible to producecosmetic formulations with a wide range of consistencies from lotions to creams. Depending on the composition even ediblemulsions can be prepared. AXOL C is supplied in pellets and powder form. For the hot processing of O/W emulsions theuse of AXOL C Pellets is suggested due to better processing.

Different to other alkyl glucoside emulsiers on the market, TEGO Care CG has an extremely high content of active matter(> %). It forms stable emulsions at very low usage concentrations ( . %) without the need for a co-emulsier. Due to thlow content of consistency enhancers in the product a wide range of compositions with different viscosity levels can be easiformulated. When processing it is recommended to add TEGO Care CG to the water phase.

With TEGO Care and TEGO Care PS the cosmetic formulator is given the opportunity to formulate a broad spectrum of cosmetic creams and lotions based on raw materials from a natural basis. These PEG-free methylglucose esters form O/W emulsionwith a bright white appearance and pleasant application properties.

TEGIN Pellets is a commonly used emulsier based on vegetable raw materials. In Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH developthis O/W emulsier which is suitable for the processing of stable creams and lotions from pH . to . .

TEGO Care LTP is a versatile, liquid PEG-free emulsier based on vegetable raw materials suitable for the formulation of O/Wemulsions. It is especially of interest for the cold processing of lotions and sprays at room temperature and for the hot processing creams. Emulsions based on TEGO Care LTP can be prepared with standard production processes using a homogenizer, but incases where no homogenizer is available in production, TEGO Care LTP can also be used for the preparation of O/W lotions usingintense stirring instead of a homogenization step.

TEGO Emulprot is a new generation of emulsier and texturizer that is close to nature. It is a milk and sugar based, PEG-fre

emulsier which is produced by a biotechnological process. The product is available as a powder and suitable for hot processinTEGO Emulprot is especially suitable for Green Natural O/W emulsions for the application Facial, Body Care and Baby Care.

These green emulsiers are all approved by Ecocert.


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One outstanding property of the TEGINACID products is their stability in acid or weakly alkaline formulations (pH valuebetween . and . ). While TEGINACID C is mainly suitable for the formulation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical creams, thmain applications of TEGINACID H are O/W lotions.

TEGO Care is especially of interest for the processing of low cost mass market O/W emulsions. Creams and lotions containTEGO Care show improved compatibility with higher concentrations of electrolytes.

Creams and lotions formulated with the cationic vegetable based emulsiers of the VARISOFT family provide a specic non-oily

skin feel which might be favorable in formulations with higher lipid loadings. The specic properties of these formulations areto the cationic character of the emulsier molecule. Because of this cationic character, stabilisation of the formulations with Carbothickeners is not favourable. However, these emulsiers are well compatible with all type of classical consistency enhancers.

Fi lds A lic ti

B dy d F ci l C rEmulsiers forFacial Care applications should ideally be natural and mild products that provide some additional benets to faciaskin. These aspects are met when using the emulsier TEGO Care . In a publication of Henkel On the Choice of O/WEmulsiers for Use in Skin Care Products for Sensitive Skin TEGO Care was in-vivo tested as a very mild emulsier.Moisturizing properties as measured by corneometer have also been determined [ ]. TEGO Care can be seen as an excellent

emulsier for Facial Care applications. Furthermore TEGO Care CG and TEGO Care PS are also good emulsiers withmoisturizing properties for Facial Care lotions and creams.

Consumers expectHand Care products to be easily spread, quickly absorbed and to possess a lasting caring effect. In additionhand cream should be difcult to wash off, i.e. it should not re-emulsify immediate on contact with water.

Cationic Emulsiers

VARISOFT TA (Distearyldimonium Chloride) VARISOFT PATC (Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) TEGO Care CE (Cetearyl alcohol (and) Palmitamidopropyltrimoniumchloride)

Vegetable based Emulsiers

TEGINACID C (Ceteareth- ) TEGINACID H (Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteth- ) TEGO Care (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG- Stearate)


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TEGIN Pellets is the most commonly used emulsier in Hand Care products. Also TEGINACID C plays an important role as wellapproved emulsier in Hand Care creams. Combining TEGIN Pellets or TEGINACID C with TEGO Care and/or TEGO Care PSin Hand Care formulations often yields additional benets such as improved water resistance or additional moisturizing properties

Body Care lotions for the low cost mass market can be formulated on the basis of the PEG-free emulsiers AXOL C andTEGO Care LTP. By using different types of emulsiers a specic type of skin feel of the Body Care product can be obtained (s

section Additional Benets: Skin Feel).

B by C rFor O/W formulations in Baby Care Applications green, vegetable based, PEG-free raw materials with a high purity are requesteTEGO Care CG is a natural, highly efcient emulsier of high purity which is therefore perfectly suited for formulating different types of Baby Care emulsions.

Su C rIn Sun Care applications emulsiers are needed that show an excellent compatibility with organic and inorganic UV lterAXOL C is a proven natural emulsier for Sun Care lotions and creams. Many cosmetic Sun Care product lines are based this emulsier. Using the emulsier TEGO Care results in Sun Care formulations with a much higher water resistance than itis usually known from O/W Sun Care products based on classical PEG-containing O/W emulsiers. Cationic emulsions have beeproven to give water resistance properties and to improve the sand repellency of Sun Care products. Especially in combination wiREWOPAL PIB the water resistancy can be increased.

D d r ts/A ti rs ir tsIn roll-on Deodorant/Antiperspirant applications ABIL Care in combination with the co-emulsiers TEGINACID H orTEGO SMO V allows the formulation of low viscous lotions with an excellent light and smoothing perception on the skin.


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S ci l F rms A lic tiS r y bl Emulsi sSprayable emulsions play a role of signicant importance in many segments of the cosmetic market (e.g. Sun Care, After Sun, Care). A prerequisite in formulating sprayable emulsions are stable O/W lotions with a low viscosity. Such low viscous O

emulsions can be also used as a basis for impregnating liquids for wet wipes.O/W sprayable lotions based on the emulsier/consistency enhancer blend TEGINACID H can be produced by the classical hotprocess with standard homogenization equipment. Their resulting viscosity is very low ( mPas)*. Due to the ne drsize, the emulsions show a sufcient long-term stability even with these low viscosities.

The combination of ABIL Care with TEGINACID H provides sprayable lotions (viscosity approx. mPas)* with an improveskin feel compared to emulsions which are only based on ethoxylated emulsiers (velvety-silky, smoothing instead of watery wa dull after feel).

Sprayable emulsions based on a combination of ABIL Care and a hydrophilic co-emulsier such as TEGO SMO V can beobtained by cold processing. These consistency enhancer-free formulations can be stabilized by using polymeric thickeners (eTEGO Carbomers). The viscosity for such sprayable lotions has to be between and mPas* in order to have a glong-term stability. A viscosity of mPas or even higher is not a problem for the spray heads that are available today.

PEG-free, sprayable emulsions on basis of AXOL C can be produced by hot processing via a concentrated emulsion. The emulsionviscosity can vary between and mPas*.

Another possibility to obtain sprayable lotions based on a PEG-free emulsier is the use of TEGO Care CG . CombiningTEGO Care CG with potassium stearate as co-emulsier in a hot process allows the formulation of stable sprayable lotiwith a viscosity between and mPas*.

Stable O/W sprayable lotions can be prepared with TEGO Care LTP in a cold process at room temperature using a homogenizer.TEGO Care LTP should be combined with polymeric stabilizers/thickeners in order to adjust the viscosity and the stability proof the PEG-free emulsions. For the preparation of sprayable emulsions a combination of TEGO Carbomer (INCI: Carbomer)

and TEGO Carbomer ER (INCI: Acrylates/C - Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer) proved to be most effective. The viscoof the nal emulsion should be approx. mPas.

* Brookeld RVT, Spindle , rpm.


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W t Wi sLow viscous O/W emulsions are of interest for many cosmetic applications. Systems of particular interest are impregnating lotiofor the preparation of cosmetic wet wipes. A new technology of P.I.C. (phase inversion concentration) emulsions has been developedThe products are traded under the names TEGO Wipe DE and TEGO Wipe DE PF.

TEGO

Wipe DE and TEGO

Wipe DE PF are unique blends of EO-free emulsiers, a caring cosmetic emollient and signicantamounts of preservatives. The INCI name of TEGO Wipe DE is Diethylhexyl Carbonate, Polyglyceryl- Laurate, Phenoxyethanol,Methylparaben, Dilauryl Citrate, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben and Isobutylparaben. The INCI of TEGO Wipe DE PFis Diethylhexyl Carbonate, Polyglyceryl- Laurate, Phenoxyethanol, Dilauryl Citrate. Both products are liquid concentrateeasy-to-process by dilution with water.

When diluting % of TEGO Wipe DE or TEGO Wipe DE PF nely dispersed O/W emulsion can be obtained via amicroemulsion-like phase. Due to the relatively high amount of preservative in TEGO Wipe DE/DE PF additional preservation of the resulting impregnating liquid may not be necessary.

The production process is very simple as no heating and no homogenizer is required. Impregnating liquids made from TEGO Wipe DE/DE PF products have a very ne degree of dispersion absolutely comparable to P.I.T. emulsions based on ethoxylated emulsiewhich leads to good long-term stability.

Additi l B tsSkin FeelWith the ageing population, skin moisturization has become a key attribute to consumers. One way to achieve this effect is to boostthe lipophilic content in formulas. This, however, can impart an unpleasant, unctuous feel to a skin care product.

Cationic emulsion systems based on low irritation, skin friendly emulsiers are now being used to create a unique powdery feelthat can mask higher lipophilic loadings. Cationic emulsiers can be included in moisturizing lotions, facial creams, Sun Care produor shaving creams to give adry, non-oily skin feel combined with good adsorption.


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VARISOFT TA offers the formulator exibility in choosing the stabilizers. Emulsions made with this emulsier are extremlight and absorb quickly to form a matte nish on the skin surface. Emulsions based on VARISOFT PATC have a light after feel butleave the skin with a soft moisturized texture.

Avelvety-silky skin feel combined with a long lastingskin smoothing perception can be obtained by cosmetic emulsions with the

organosilicone emulsier ABIL

Care . As a result of corneometer and FOITS measurements ABIL

Care can be judged ashaving outstanding skin moisturizing and skin smoothing properties.

Lotions and creams formulated with TEGO Care provide acaring, rich skin feel combined with additional moisturizingproperties.

The highly effective alkyl glucoside emulsier TEGO Care CG is known to impart asoft and supple skin feel to O/W creamsand lotions.

P r rm cModern emulsiers should provide a large exibility to the formulator regarding the range of obtainable viscosities (creams, loti

and the range of emulsifyable oil components (emollients of different chemical structure and different polarity). Furthermorsufcient pH range ( . . ) should be accessible for the formulations based on these emulsiers. Additional requirements be the compatibility with electrolytes or with UV lters or other active ingredients.

Such a wide exibility for the formulator is offered by the versatile emulsier TEGO Care , which is known for its excellentcompatibility with active ingredients and signicant amounts of electrolytes within the desired pH range.

In specic formulations like self tanning products containing DHA (Dihydroxyacetone) a pH . is needed. TEGO Care PS canbe recommended for such formulations at low pH values.

In order to obtain even higher electrolyte resistance in O/W formulations, TEGO Care alone or as co-emulsier can provideadditional stability.


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Pr c ssi gThe processing of O/W emulsions at room temperature has several signicant benets. For example, it is no longer necessary toheat the water and oil phase to C. This saves not only considerable amounts of energy, but, as the cooling step is eliminatthe cycle time is reduced as well. Another advantage is that heat-sensitive ingredients, such as biological additives, can be added the emulsions at any point.

The liquid organosilicone emulsier ABIL

Care in combination with the liquid co-emulsier TEGO

SMO V enables coldprocessing of O/W lotions with velvety-silky skin feel.

PEG-free, cold processable lotions can be produced by using a pre-solution of AXOL C . A pre-solution of % of AXOL C can be prepared which has a long time storage stability and which is pumpable at room temperature. This pre-solution can be easiworked into the water phase of the emulsion in a cold process.

Cold processed O/W emulsions can be also obtained with the PEG-free emulsier TEGO Care LTP. This cost effective liquidemulsier is easy-to-use for cold processing of lotions and sprays. The emulsier is able to stabilize O/W lotions with and withoa real homogenization step.

TEGO Wipe DE/TEGO Wipe DE PF allows in a very convenient way to process O/W sprays and lotions at room temperature.The O/W emulsions can be prepared without a homogenizer only using moderate stirring to prepare the emulsion. For theseapplications the addition of polymeric stabilizers such as Carbomer, Xanthan Gum is necessary.

The following diagrams summarize the representative W/O and O/W emulsiers according to their trade name, INCI name,elds of application, usage concentration and the most important properties. The overviews are dedicated to help in selecting thright emulsier for the desired formulation.


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Trade Name INCI Name Properties

Silicone based emulsifier with a high stabilizing potential for emulsions due to itpolymeric and polyfunctional structure

Emulsifier for light creams and lotions with all kinds of oils and with a highCetyl PEG/PPG- / compatibility with active ingredients, e. g. UV filters

ABIL EM Dimethicone Emulsifier for multiple emulsions

Polyglyceryl-Isostearate, Optimally balanced blend of emulsifiers and an emollient, similar to ABIL EM Cetyl PEG/PPG- / Especially suitable for sunscreen emulsions with high sun protection factors andDimethicone, make up formulations

ABIL WE Hexyl Laurate Emulsifier for multiple emulsions

Bis-PEG/PPG- / Silicone based emulsifier for water-in-silicone creams and lotionsDimethicone, Emulsifier for antiperspirant formulations (including clear gels) with excellent

ABIL EM Cyclopentasiloxane delivering of antiperspirant active ingredients

PEG-free emulsifier based on vegetable raw materials especially suitable for thePolyglyceryl- formulation of low viscous W/O lotions with a pleasant, very light and non-oilyDiisostearate/ skin feelPolyhydroxystearate/ Allows the formulation of W/O lotions with a very low content of oil phase

ISOLAN GPS Sebacate (down to %)

Vegetable based emulsifier with high stabilizing potential for emulsions due toDiisostearoyl its polymeric and polyfunctional structurePolyglyceryl- Dimer Emulsifier for elegant W/O emulsions with a brilliant white appearance and

ISOLAN PDI Dilinoleate pleasant application properties

Polyglyceryl- Emulsifier for creams with paraffin oils and with ester oilsISOLAN GI Isostearate Good stability against oxidation

Figure : W/O Emulsiers Overview


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Usage/Concentration Fields of Application

Facial Care Body Care Baby Care Sun Care Decorative Cosmetics Deo/AP

. . %

. . %

. . %

%

. % . . %


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Trade Name INCI Name Properties

Bis-PEG/PPG- /PEG/PPG- /Dimethicone, Silicone based nonionic emulsifier for sprayable emulsions, lotions and creamsCaprylic/Capric Emulsions with a velvety-silky skin feel and long-lasting skin smoothing percepti

ABIL Care Triglyceride Cold processable and easy to handle (liquid and clear down to C)

PEG-free, food grade emulsifier based on vegetable raw materialsGlyceryl Stearate Emulsifier for creams, lotions, sprays and foams

AXOL C Citrate Suitable for cold production of lotions (powder form)

Sugar based, PEG-free emulsifier with a high purity/active matter Emulsifier for natural emulsions

TEGO Care CG Cetearyl Glucoside Additional benefits: soft and supple skin feel, moisturizing

PEG-free emulsifier based on natural renewable raw materialsPolyglyceryl- Emulsifier for creams and lotions with all kinds of oils and with a high compatibiMethylglucose with active ingredients, e. g. UV filters

TEGO Care Distearate Additional benefits: very mild to skin, moisturizing, water resistant sunscreens

Similar to TEGO Care , butMethyl Glucose Stable creams with lower pH values (down to . )

TEGO

Care PS Sesquistearate Higher compatibility with electrolyte-type active ingredients PEG-free emulsifier based on renewable raw materials Stable creams and lotions from pH . .

TEGIN Pellets Glyceryl Stearate SE Additional benefit: moisturizing

Non-ionic emulsifier for cosmetic and pharmaceutic creams (US Pharmakopoeia)TEGINACID C Ceteareth- Creams with all kinds of oils and with a high compatibility with active ingredien

Blend of emulsifier and consistency enhancer for the preparation of lotionsGlyceryl Stearate, Especially suitable for sprayable lotions (wet wipes, sun care, deodorants) as we

TEGINACID H Ceteth- as foaming lotions

Glyceryl Stearate Vegetable based emulsifier for O/W creams and lotions with pleasant(and) PEG- application properties

TEGO Care Stearate Compatible with higher concentrations of electrolytes

Sorbitan Laurate, PEG-free, liquid O/W emulsier easy- to-use for cold processing of lotionsPolyglyceryl- and sprays and for hot processing of creamsLaurate, Dilauryl Able to stabilize O/W lotions prepared in a cold process without a real

TEGO Care LTP Citrate homogenization step

Sodium Citrate,Hydrolyzed MilkProtein, XanthanGum, Cyamopsis,Tetragonoloba(Guar) Gum, A Natural Milk-and-Sugar-Based Emulsier for O/W emulsions

TEGO Emulprot Magnesium Stearate Innovative PEG-free emulsier especially designed for Natural Cosmetic Product

Cetearyl alcohol (and)Palmitamidopropyl- Cationic emulsier system for O/W creams and lotionstrimonium Chloride Provides a powdery skin feel

TEGO Care CE (proposed). Co-Emulsier to alter a formulations sensory prole

Emulsifier based on renewable raw materials for O/W emulsionsDistearyldimonium Emulsions are extremely light and absorb quickly to form a matte finish on the

VARISOFT TA Chloride skin surface

Palmitamidopropyl- Unique, vegetable based emulsifier for creams and lotionsVARISOFT PATC trimonium Chloride Formulations have a light after feel, but leave the skin with a soft moisturized tex

Figure : O/W Emulsiers Overview

Aut rs: Gabriele Polak, Dr. Jrgen Meyer, Anna Howe, Angela PaezGuid li rmul ti s:For further information please visit our homepage: www.evonik.com/personal-care


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Usage/Concentration Fields of Application

Facial Care Body Care Baby Care Sun Care Decorative Cosmetics Deo/AP

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Lit r tur : [ ] G. Kutz, P. Biehl, M. Waldmann-Laue and B. Jackwerth: On the Choice of Oil-in-Water Emulsiers for Use in SkinCare Products for Sensitive Skin, SFW-Journal , ,

[ ] Dietz, Th.: Sprayable Emulsions and Foaming Lotions, SFW-Journal , , [ ] P. Becker, J. Meyer, B. Grning: TEGO Emulprot An Innovative Milk and Sugar Based Emulsier for Natural Skin Care

Concepts, Cosmetic Year Book, July [ ] J. Meyer, P. Allef, H. Ftsch: A Novel PEG-free Emulsier Designed for Formulating W/O Lotions with a Light Skin Feel,

SFW-Journal, November [ ] J. Meyer, G. Polak, R. Scheuermann: Preparing PIC Emulsions with a Very Fine Particle Size, Cosmetic & Toiletries, January


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Evonik Industries AGRellinghauser Strasse 111 45128 EssenGermanyphone +49 201 177-01fax +49 201 177-3475www.evonik.com

Y ur C t ct

H d c Ev ik G ldsc midt GmbH Goldschmidtstrasse 45127 EssenGermanyP.O. Box 45116 Essen

phone +49 201 173-2854 fax +49 201 173-1828

[email protected]/personal-care

Eur Fr c Paris

phone +33 6 864 917 91

S i Granollers phone +34 938 642 178 fax +34 938 642 161

T Br silAm ric s So Paulo phone +55 11 314 641 00 fax +55 11 314 641 31

Asi C iShanghai

phone +86 21 611 910 00 fax +86 21 611 912 64

It ly Pandino (Cr) phone +39 037 3975 221 fax +39 037 3975 260

C d Oakville phone +1 905 336 34 23 fax +1 905 633 75 53

I d si Bekasi Timurphone +62 21 882 83 22

fax +62 21 882 83 21

Gr t Brit iMilton Keynes

phone +44 1908 582 250 fax +44 1908 582 254

M icMexico City

phone + fax +52 555 673 66 49

JTokyophone +81 3 532 387 90fax +81 3 532 387 89

Sc di vi Rungsted, Denmark

phone +45 449 918 00 fax +45 449 901 80

USA Hopewell phone +1 804 541 86 58 fax +1 804 541 86 89

K r Seoul phone +82 2 207 123 00

fax +82 2 785 52 47

For more detailed information or to obtain a brochure which addresses a spe-cic area of interest, please contact theEvonik Goldschmidt Head Ofce in Essen or contact your local representative.

This information and all further technical advice are based on Evonik Goldschmidt GmbHs present knowledgeand experience. However, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH assumes no liability for providing such information and adviceincluding the extent to which such information and advice may relate to existing third party intellectual propertyrights, especially patent rights. In particular, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH disclaims ALL CONDITIONS ANDWARRANTIES, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF FITNESSA PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR MERCHANTABILITY. EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT GMBH SHALL NOT BERESPONSIBLE FOR CONSEQUENTIAL, INDIRECT OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES (INCLUDING LOSS OFPROFITS) OF ANY KIND. Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH reserves the right to make any changes according totechnological progress or further developments. It is the customers responsibility and obligation to carefully inspectand test any incoming goods. Performance of the product(s) described herein should be veried by testing andcarried out only by qualied experts. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to carry out and arrange for anysuch testing. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation, nor an endorsementof any product and does not imply that similar products could not be used. (Status: February, 2008)

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