FA S HI O N FR A ME W OR K SE R I E S

Toe-Up Sock Lesson by Arenda Holladay

Tn each iss11e, the "Fashion Framework series" will help you explore basic elements of pattern make-up - things to know before yo11 knit. Each article in this series will provide a "lesson" for n basic 1ype of garment. The lesson will describe in detail aspecls of !he garme111 m1d provide a basic pattern and show ways to alter the standard partem to customize the garment. The lesson for this iss11e is toe-11p socks.

ABOUT TOE-UP SOCKS

There are two basic ways to knit a sock; beginning a t the cuff and working down to the toe or from the toe to the cuff. There arc ad­

vantages to both methods and a later article in this series will discuss

cuff down socks with heel gussets. This article will cover the process

of knitting a sock toe-up with short row heels. The lesson provides

the steps fo r knitt ing a simple ribbed cuff sock but pa tterns are also provided for more complicated designs.

12 Cast On • August -October 2009

The major advantage to knitting a sock from the toe-up is that it

can be tried on as you work on it and you do not have to worry

about running out of yarn before you fin ish the foot. If you run

short, the cuff doesn't have to be as long.

Components

The basic components of a sock are the toe, instep, sole, heel and

cuff. When you look at a sock pattern, check to see how the toe and

heel are shaped as this affects not only how the sock is kn it but also

how the sock fi ts. For example, some find heel flaps and gussets

bulky. Check to see if the sti tch pattern is on the instep (top part

of the sock from the toe to the ankle) as well as the cuff. Consider

if the stitch pattern o n the cuff is clastic enough to sl ide over the

heel and instep when putting it o n and if it will fit comfortably on

the calf. It is no secret tha t the size of people's calves can vary. Socks

should be fun to knit but they should also fit the recipient.

Const ruction

There are several ways to cast on for a toe-up sock. Some patterns

call for a provisional cast on where the stitches are kept "l ive'~ This

requires a Kitchener closing which many knitters dread. Others

call for the Eastern o r Figure 8 cast on but this lesson wi ll use Judy

Becker's Judy's Magic Cast-On found in the Spring 2006 issue of

K.nitty.com.

It is no coincidence that the popularity of knitting socks toe-up has

occurred since the publication of Priscilla Gibson-Robert's Simple Socks: Plain and Fancy which features short row heels. Although it

is possible to usc a heel llap or afterthought heel, most patterns spec­

ify short row heels.

Another thing to consider when knitting toe-up is the elasticity of

the bind off. The standard bind off is too tight fo r the cuff. There

arc alternative bind off techn iques which provide a looser edge.

Yarn Considerations

Walk in to any yarn store or search a web site fo r "sock yarn" and you

will be amazed by your choices. Before selecting a yarn consider the

fiber type. Socks made from LOO% wool may not wear as well or may

req uire hand washing. I have learned from experience that socks knit

with wool blends last longer. To be on the safe side when working

with IOOo/o wools, you may wan t to reinforce the heels and toes. I

have found sil k li ke Splendor or Elegance (available in needlepoint

stores) works well.

Another factor to consider is the pattern of the yarn. Most kn itters

I know are inimediatcly drawn to variegated yarns. The stripi ng

and pool ing of colors may detract from a sock with an intricate

pattern. For example, a plain color yarn works best for the Wasp

Wings pa ttern which fo llows. Variegated or multicolored yarn

works well for a simple sock like the ribbed socks in the lesson.

Some patterns are enhanced by mult icolored yarns. The sli pped

stitches used in the Lattice socks can add interest to the stripes.

Patterns like Monkey Socks designed by Cookie A which have

Stockinette stitches next to reverse Stockinette st itches often work

well with variegated yarns. If you arc a member of Ravelry, you

may want to search there for a part icula r sock pattern or yarn be­

fore committing the time to the project.

One of the problems with variegated ya rns or yarns like Noro sock

yarns is that the color pattern is disrupted on the instep when the

heel is worked. The instep is generally the most visible part of the

sock. To avoid this, I pull the yarn from the center or another ball

of yarn to work the heel. This guarantees that the color pattern is

maintained on the instep.

When selecting the ya rns for the socks in this lesson, I tried to select

a range of yarn types. The simple sock is knit with Pagewood Farms

Hand Dyed Sock yarns. The colors do not stripe or pool but provide

a random design. The Lattice socks are knit with Shibui Sock that

has a definite stri ped pattern. The Wasp Wing socks are knit with

Lang Jawoll. This hea thered yarn docs not detract from the pattern.

The Silk \"!asp Wing socks arc knit with a single strand of RedFish

Dyeworks 2/20 Silk.

Needles

You have th ree choices when kn itting socks-double pointed needles,

one long circular needle or two circular needles. Most serious sock

knitters have a definite preference. There are advantages and disad­

vantages to each. Judy's Magic Cast-On is much easier with circular

need les so this lesson recommends a long circular need le. Personally, I prefer double pointed needles so I use a long circular needle for the

toe and then switch need les. If you a rc new to sock knitting, do not

let a more experienced kn itter belittle yo ur needle choice or attempt

to bully you. It is up to each kn itter to find the tools and techniques

they prefer. Even if a pattern specifi es a pa rticular type of needle you

ca11 use the needles you prefer.

SOCK LESSON

T he pattern in this lesson is for simple ribbed socks. There will

be an ex-planation of each step in the construction preceding the

pattern section. Pattern inst ructions are boxed to set them off from

the explanations.

Pat tern Inform ation

T his section provides general in formation yo u need to work the

pattern.

Simple Ribbed Sock

by Arenda Holladay

Yarn Symbol: Super Fine ( I )

Level of Experience: Easy

Sizes: Women's S (M , L)

Finished Measurem ents:

Foot Circumference: 9"

Foot Length: 9 (9 L/2, I 0)"

Cuff: 6 1/2"

Materials:

Pagewood Farms HAND DYED YARN DENALI (4oz/l l3g,

450yds/4 I 1m, 80% Merino Superwash Wool, 20% Nylon ):

I skein Fabulous Fall

Size 2 (2.75mm) 32" (80cm) circular needle or size needed to

obtain correct gauge"

*Once the toe is complete, you may use dp11s for this pattern if you wish Tapestry needle

Cable needle

continued 011 page 14

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Gauge:

In St st, 32 sts & 44 rows= 4"/ I 0 em .

To save lime, take time to check gauge.

Special Abbreviations:

Inc !R- Right slanting lifted increase. Knit in to the purl nub

below the stitch. Then knit the stitch .

lnc l L - Left sla11ting lifted increase. Knit the stitch. Then knit

into the purl nub below the stitch. SSSP - Sli p the next 3 sts

knitwise one at a time to the RH needle; pass them back to

LH needle, place the RH needle behind these three stitches

and purl them together through the back loops.

Preparation - Measuring Gauge

The most importa nt part of the general pattern information is the

descript ion of the expected gauge. Before beginning it is necessary

to knit a gauge swatch even if you a re using the recommended yarn.

Using the recommended needle size and the ya rn, cast on at least 30

stitches and work at least 2" in Stockinette stitch. Since some kni tters

have different gauge when knitting in the round, you may want lo

knit the gauge swatch in the round. (Row gauge is not as impor­

tant for th is pattern.) Block the swatch and measure the width to an

eighth of an inch and note the deci mal measurement on the work­

sheet below. Also note the n umber of stitches you measured. If you

do not take the time to do this, there is no guarantee the garment

will fit.

Gauge Worksheet

Width: 1/8 = .12S 1/4 = .2S

S/8 = .62S 3/4 = .7S

3/8 = .37S

7/8 = .87S

1/2 = .S

Nu mber of Stitches: Don't include the selvedge stitches. Divide the

number of stitches by the width. This gives you the number of

stitches per inch. Do not round orr the number.

N umber of Stitches Per Inch: Multiply the number of stitches by

4. Round this number up or down.

N umber of Stitches in 4": Repeal th is procedure to determine the

row gauge.

Length: 1/8 = .1 2S l/4 = .2S

S/8 = .62S 3/4 = .7S

3/8 = .37S

7/8 = .87S

1/2 = .S

Number of Rows: Don't include the cast on o r bind of{ edge. Divide

the number of rows by the length. This gives you the number of

rows p er inch. Do not rou nd off the number.

Number of Rows Per Inch: Multiply the number of rows by 4. Ro und

this number up or down .

14 Cast On • August - October 2009

N umber of Rows in 4 ": lf you are getting fewer stitches than the

recommended gauge, try using a smaller needle size. lf you are get­

ting more stitches than the recommended gauge, try using a larger

needle size.

Casting on for the Toe

As ment ioned earlier, Judy's Magic Cast-On will be used fo r the

socks. Th is article's bibliography includes additional sources for

this cast on. However, the instructions wi ll guide you th rough this

process. If you are familiar with this technique, CO 16 sts to ea needle and skip to "Shaping the Toe".

C1sting On for the Toe

I. Hold the needles side-by-side pointed towards the left. Place a

slip knot on the top needle. Keep the yarn tail on your index

finger and the working yarn on your thumb (See Illustrat ion I

on page 1S). To make technique easier lo see, the sample is work­

ed in two colors. The pa ler yarn is the ya rn tail, the darker yarn is

the working yarn .)

2. Bring the yarn on your index fi nger (yarn tail) under and over the

bottom needle (Sec Illust ration 2 on page IS) .

3. Bring the yarn on your thumb (working yarn) under and over

the top needle (Sec Illustration 3 on page IS). Repeat Steps 2 and

3 unti l I6 sts have been cast on each needle (Sec Illustration 4 on

page IS).

4. Turn the needles clockwise to the right. The needle with the

working yarn is on the bottom. Let the yarn tail dangle free and

pick up the working yarn. Make sure you have the working yarn

over the yarn tail. Slide the stitches on the bottom needle to the

cable so that the needle is free. (lt is easier to work the stitches

this way.) Knit the stitches on the top needle (See Ill ustration S

on page 15).

S. Turn the needles clockwise to the right. Slide the stitches on the

top needle from the cable back to the needle. Slide the sti tches

on the bottom needle to the cable so that the needle is free. Knit

the stitches on the second needle. You will need to knit these

stitches through the back loops or they will be twisted.

DESIGNER NOTE Shaping the Toe: The toe is shaped by making increases every other row at the right and left on both the top and bottom of the toe. The pattern specifies lifted increases. If you are not familiar with these increases, you can watch videos on Knittinghelp.com. This site calls these increases KLR (right slanting) and KLL (left slanting).

Shaping the Toe

Rnd 1: Turn the needles clockwise to the right and slide the

sti tches o n the top needle from the cable to the needle.

Slide the stitches on the bottom needle to the cable so that the needle is free. Knit the stitches on the top needle. Turn

the needles clockwise to the right and slide the stitches on the

to p needle from the cable to the needle. Slide the sti tches on

the bottom needle to the cable so that the needle is free. Knit

the stitches on the top need I e.

Inc Rnd: Kl , Inc I R, knit to last 2 sts, Inc I L, k I. Adjust the

sts on the needle as described in Rnd I. K l , Inc I R, knit to

last 2 sts, lnclL, k I. Rep Rnd I and Inc Rnd unti l there are

32 sts on ea needle - 64 sts tota l.

Instep and Sole

This sock does not have a pattern stitch on the instep. It is worked

in Stockinette stitch. The only decision you have to make is when

to begin heel shaping which adds about 1 3/4" to the length of the

foot. Another way to determine when to start heel shaping is to try

the sock on. Begin heel shaping when the sock is at your ankle bone.

The other sock patterns in this lesson have sti tch pattern designs on

the instep.

Instep and Sole

Work in pat as est u ntil sock m eas 7 J/4 (7 3/4, 8 l/4)" or

I 3/4" from total desired length.

Shaping the Heel

Short rows shape the heel which is an alternative to the heel flap

and gusset technique used for most socks. This short- row technique

is the basis of Simple Socks: Plain and haney by Priscilla Gibson­

Roberts. The basic technique involves knitting one less stitch at the

end of every row on the heel back and knitting one more stitch at

the base the heel. The result is a heel similar to those found on com­

mercially manufactured socks.

Working a short row heel the first time can be a li ttle confusing. The

sock is worked as usual until the location for the heel. Half of the

total number of stitches ( the top of the foot) is held at the back.

The rest of the stitches form the heel. The heel is shaped by working

one less stitch at the end of every row until the base of the heel is

reached. To eliminate the holes that short rows produce, a yarnover

must be worked at the beginning of every row before the first stitch

is knit or purled. These yarnovers are paired with a stitch. Typical

ya rnovers which encircle the entire needle are too large. Instead, on

purled rows, take the yarn under the right needle and then purl the

first stitch and on kni t rows, take the yarn over the right needle and

then knit the first stitch.

continued on page 16

Illustration I

fllustration 2

lfl ustration 3

Illustration 4

Illustration 5

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continued from page 15

The resulting yarnovers are smaller but they are seated backwards

on the needle. That problem is solved when you pick up the stitches.

The stitches between the yarnover pairs form the base of the heel. If

you have narrow heels, work more short rows.

TECHNICAL TIP Yarnover Pairs: 11 stitches will be between the yarnover/ stitch pairs. There will be 9 yarnover/stitch pairs on the right side and 10 on the left side. Illustration 6 shows these stitches. Note the single stitch at ends, the yarn­over/stitch pairs and the stitches between them.

Shape Heel

Row 1 (RS): K31, leaving the final st on n eedle (this st will be

used to join heel to instep). This is the first short row. Turn .

Row 2 (WS): Work yo at beg of row by placing working yarn

under right needle, p the first st. (There are now three loops

on the right n eedle - the unworked st, the yo and st just p

which fo rms the first pair on this side.) P29, leaving last st on

left needle. This is the second short row. Turn.

Row 3: Work yo at beg of row by placing working yarn over

right needle, k fi rst st. (There a re now three loops on right

needle- the unworked st, the yo, and st just k which fo rms

the fi rst pair on this side. ) Work sts up to yo/st pair. Turn.

Row 4: Work yo beg of row by placing working yarn under

right needle, p sts up to yo/st pair. Turn. Rep Rows 3 & 4, beg

ea row with yo and working one less st ea row until there are

11 sts bet yo/st pairs end on RS. There are 9 st/yo pairs on

righ t side of heel and 10 st/yo pairs on left side of heel.

Illustration 6

Turning the Heel

To turn the heel, each yarnover must be k (or p ) tog with the next

st. Remember, since these yarnovers are not seated properly, they

must be adjusted before making the dec. If the st mount of the yarn­

overs is not reversed, resulting decs will be twisted. For that reason,

it is necessary to rev the st mount of the yarnovers at the end of every

row. This is part of the SSP and SSSP decs. For K2tog and K3tog decs,

16 Cast On ·August - October 2009

sl the yarnovers to right needle as if to p and wi th le ft needle,

return them to the left needle, rev( ing) the st mount. To further re­

duce the possibility of a hole, yarnovers are again worked at each

turn. After the first two rows arc turned, there will be two yarnovers

to be decreased with each stitch .

Th e fi rst two rows of the heel turn are u nique. O nce you have

worked them, the rest of the rows are wor ked exactly the same

way un til all the stitches have been used up. To doubly ensure

that there are no holes, you will continue to make yarnm·ers every

time you turn the work.

TECHNICAL TIP

Decreases: Most knitters find making the SSP/SSSP de-

. creases match the size of the K2tog/K3tog decreases dif­ficult. If you don't stretch out the slipped stitches you can improve their appearance. If you have not worked an SSP/SSSP decrease, go to Knittinghelp.com. There is a video for the SSP decrease which you may find helpful.

Tu rning Heel

Row l (RS): YO, kl2 (up to first yo ). Adjust mount of yo.

K2tog. Turn.

Row 2 (WS): YO, p l3 (up to first yo ). SSP. Turn.

Row 3: YO, kl4 (up to first yo). Adjust mount of two yos one

at a time. K3tog. Turn.

Row 4: YO, p 15 (up to first yo). SSSP. Turn.

Rep Rows 3 & 4, beg ea row with yo and working one ad­

ditional st ea row until al l yos have been worked. At ea turn

on last two turns, work yos at beg of row (used to help close

the gap bet the heel and instep). On last turn, work up to yo

at left side of heel.

Joining the Heel to the In step

Another potential problem with short row heels occurs when the

heel is joined to the top of the foot. The fi rst and last stitches at the

stitches reserved for the top of the foot may have been stretched as

you worked the heel. If the re is a gap, you may wan t to pick up an

extra stitch in the gap and work a K3tog or SSSK at the join.

Joining Heel t o Top of Foot

Sl yo to next needle with sts for top of foot, k2tog. (If there

is a large gap, it may be necessary to pick up an additional st

in the gap. If so, work K3tog. ) Work up to last st on top of

foot. Sl last st to needle with yo. Work SSK using sl stand yo.

(If there is a large gap, it may be necessary to pick up an ad ­

ditional st in the gap.lf so, work SSSK.)

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Cuff

T he cuff pattern docs not begin immediately after the heel shap­

in g. Work l J/2" in Stockinette stitch so that the cuff begins after

the a nkle bone. lf the recipient of the socks has large calves, you

may want to switch to a larger needle size as wel l.

\

Cuff

Work even in pat as est until sock meas approx 1 1/2'' after

the heel shapi ng. Beg Pat Rnd: K2, p2. Work in pal as est

until cuff meas approx 5 1/2''.

Bind Off

T he traditional BO is too tight for the top of the cuff. It makes

the sock difftcult to put on and uncomfortable to wea r. Chang­

ing to larger needles j ust makes the BO sloppy. The BO used in

this pattern is the invisible BO which is similar to commercially

produced socks. The bibliography provides sources for two other

techniques which provide loose BO edges, backstitch or sewn BO

and dec 130.

Although an invisible BO can be worked on K2P2, it is easier to

work on Kl P1 rib. Since the cuff is K2P2 r ib, you will convert this

to K1Pl rib. To prepare for the BO it is necessary to work 2-4 rows

with slip s titches. On the first (and third) round you kni t the knit

stitches and sl ip the purl stitches with the yarn in front. On the

second (and fourth ) round you purl th e purl stitches and slip the

knit stitches with the yarn in back.

Bind Off

Rnd 1: *K1, place next st on en and hold to front, p1, k st

from en, p l ; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 2: *KJ, bring yarn forward, sl nex t st, bring yarn back;

rep from " to end of rnd. Rnd 3: *SI st, bring yarn forward , pi, move yarn back; rep

from * to end of rnd .

Cut the ya rn. You will need at least three tim es the width of the

piece. Thread the yarn onto a tapestry needle. Adjust the stitches

on the needle so that a knit stitch is the last stitch on the right

needle and a purl stitch is the first stitch on the left needle.

l. Insert the tapestry needle k-wise (or from the left) in the purl

stitch and pull tight.

2. Insert the tapestry needle p-wise (or from the right) into the knit

stitch on the right needle and al the same time into the knit stitch

on the left needle.*

3. Insert the tapestry needle back into the purl st p-wise and let

the first two sti tches d rop from the left needle.

Rep steps I -3 until all sts have been worked.

*After the first time yo u work the steps, step 3 is worked differen t­

ly. Insert the tapestry need le into the knit st just dropped from the

needle. Big lJook of Knitting by Katharina Buss provides excellent

photographs of this technique.

Finish ing

Block if necessary, weave in all yarn tails.

Patterns fo r three other socks begin on page 18. The instructions

for working the toes, heels and bind off are the same as for the

Simple Ribbed Socks.

Bibliography

Judy's Magic Cast-On by Judy Becker

knitty.com/issuespring06/FEATmagiccaston.htnu

vvW\-v.youtube.com/watch?v=TPjH-g_uvgk

Short Row Heels Gibson-Roberts, Priscilla, Simple Socks Plain and Fancy, Nomad

Press, Cedaredge, CO, 2001.

Backs titch Bind Off

Stanley, Montse, Knitter's Handbook, Reader's Digest, Pleasantville,

NY 1993, pgs 89-90.

Decrease Bind Off Stanley, Montse, Knitter's Handbook, Reader's Digest, Pleasantville,

NY l993, pgs 85-86.

Invisible Bind Off

Buss, Katharina, Big Book of Knitting, Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.,

NY, NY, 1996, pgs 46-49.

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