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  • 8/3/2019 Fall 2004 Muir Heritage Land Trust Newsletter

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    The following article is condensed

    from the October 2004 issue of

    Bay Nature magazine.

    Not willing to give up its secretseasily, the land is unpolished andthe trail less traveled by. It holds

    deep and interconnected stories of humantoil and Californias history. Long ago, itdrew many wanderers from far-away reaches,some by wagon on the Emigrant Trail,others by long ocean voyages. Placing footto earth here connects you to their history.

    The journey ended for these settlerswhere you will begin yourson theFranklin Ridge.The area begins at Mt.Wanda, part of the John Muir NationalHistoric Site in Martinez, and extendsnorthwest for some ten miles towardsHercules.The Dutra Loop Trail lies ontwo Land Trust properties, Dutra Ranchand Sky Ranch.

    The Dutra Loop Trail begins onContra Costa County Feeder Trail #1, awide, dirt path that was once a stagecoachroad used to transport travelers betweenMartinez and Richmond.Youll travel forabout a mile uphill through grasslandsdotted with oaks and shrubs.

    Past the Sky Ranch kiosk, the trailsleft fork rises to the top of a 1,000-foot

    high peakthe highest on theranch. A bench invites you tostop and take in the sweepingvista beginning in the northwestwith the Napa Valley, movingsouthward to the CarquinezStrait and Mount Diablo.Tothe south, the highest ridgeof Briones Regional Park

    lines the horizon.The nearby tree-covered

    ridge to the northwest is theFernandez property, open spacethat the Muir Heritage Land

    Trust is now raising money to purchase.Looking down and to the east, the belltower of John Muirs Victorian mansion sitsamong the treetops.On a very clear day, thesnow-covered Sierra might just be visible.

    This open, oak-studded landscape,typical of the Bay Areas inner coastal hills,

    is prime ranch land. Nearly 200 years ofcattle ranching have greatly influenced thehuman and natural history of the area.Even today the hoof-etched ridges in thehills announce their presence.

    Ranching proved very successful forthose early pioneers. According to MaeFisher Purcells florid account in the Historyof Contra Costa County,Cattle was thewedge which opened the way to prestige,grandiloquence and opulence not thereto-fore dreamed of by the dons, land granteesand owners of huge acreages.

    Ranchers often owned thousands ofcattle apiece, and the animals wanderedunimpeded. Owners would round themup only for the annual rodeos,wherecattlemen and their families would gatherfrom a 50-mile radius.The larger rodeoscounted 300 or more people and upwardsof 30,000 head of cattle.

    Cattle ranching began in the FranklinRidge when Don Ignacio Martinez appliedfor a Spanish land grant of 17,000 acres in

    continued on page 3

    A U T U M N 2 0 0 4

    InsideExecutive Directors Repor

    Staff Update:

    Meet Linus Eukel

    MHLTs 15th Anniversary

    Point San Pablo PeninsulaOpen Space

    Stewardship Update

    New MHLT Products

    Autumn Hikes

    Back Page: Save the Date!Annual Meeting Nov.1

    But in every

    walk with

    Nature one

    receives far morethan he seeks.

    JOHN MUIR

    Open Space newsM U I R HE R I T A G E LA N D T R U S T

    The Dutra Ranch Loop TrailBy Sherida Bush

    STEPHEN

    JOSEPH

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    The Muir Heritage Land Trusts 15th Anniversary celebration was a huge success!Many thanks to all of you who helped make it possible, including all our sponsors andspecial guests, Gary Bogue and Doug McConnell.The Land Trusts Outreach Committeetripled the funds raised from last years dinner, and provided a wonderful evening at thesame time.

    I want to extend a special thanks to both Senator Tom Torlakson and Assemblyman

    Joe Canciamilla, for joining us at the Celebration, and for all their help securing statefunding for the Fernandez Ranch acquisition.

    While we celebrate 15 years of preserving some of Contra Costas most extraordinarylandscapes, the Muir Heritage Land Trust is facing a future that holds significant challenges.The Fernandez Ranch acquisition is our biggest project to date and will become the largestopen space preserve in the West County, in the middle of a wildlife and trail corridor that

    extends from the Carquinez Strait south to Lamorinda.Once acquired, the Fernandez Ranch will require extensive creek restoration and

    management. It will double our land holdings in the Franklin Ridge, putting us up tothe Hercules city limits, and contiguous with East Bay Municipal Utility Districts10,000-acre watershed lands.

    Since the 15th Anniversary, weve been told that both the State Coastal Conservancyand the Wildlife Conservation Board are contributing $1,000,000 each to the FernandezRanch acquisition. Congressman Miller has been able to include an additional $1,000,000for Fernandez Ranch in the proposed federal transportation bill, however there is stilluncertainty whether that bill will be passed this year.

    We will continue to ask for your support as we work through this fall.There aremany events planned including the Horsemans Benefit Ride in September, the DutraRanch dedication in October, and our Annual meeting in November (see page 8 fordetails). Linus Eukel, our new Development Director, will try to meet with as manyof you as he can. Hes a great addition to our small staff.

    Finally, I want to thank all of you who supported the Contra Costa County OpenSpace Measure.While we were unsuccessful in passing the Measure, we were encouraged

    by the approximately 50,000 yes votes.We are looking at a number of alternatives for afuture Measure, but in the meantime, our greatest challenge is to continue to build ourcommunity of land conservation supporters. It is more critical now than ever.

    Thank you!

    MHLT Executive Director

    Executive Di rector s Repor t

    2 M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T R U S T Open Space News 7

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    1823. He brought in breeding stock andsmall herds, turning them loose on hisvast estate. Martinez named his holdingsRancho El Pinole, and they extendedover land that today includes most of theFranklin Ridge, Pinole, Rodeo, Crockett,and Martinez.

    The next wave of settlers to the areabegan in the mid-19th century. Dr. JohnStrentzel, John Muirsfather-in-law, purchasedhis property in 1853.Several miles north,

    James McHarry pur-chased 500 acres in1856 for his cattleranch.Although theylived at opposite endsof the Franklin Ridge,

    the McHarrys, Muirs,and Strentzels all kneweach other.John Muir would come tocall, McHarrys great-granddaughter,Miriam Awenius, said recently. Muirwould ask permission for my grandfathersdaughter Ada to go horseback ridingwith Muirs daughter Wanda.

    Leading from the Sky Ranch peak,the trail winds toward Dutra Ranch.Manuel Dutra emigrated from Portugalto establish his cattle ranch in 1917.The

    trail you walk here was also part of theMartinez-Richmond stagecoach route,and probably John Muirs stomping ground.Its inconceivable that Muirdidntwalkthat land, said Glenn Fuller,Superintendentof the John Muir National Historic Site.He loved tromping in those hills.

    The Muir Heritage Land Trust (MHLT)bought the 159-acre Dutra Ranch earlythis year.The purchase was the linchpinin establishing 660 acres of contiguousopen space, an important corridor for

    wildlife and trail linkages.The FranklinRidge is surrounded by cities, saidMHLT Executive Director Tina Batt.Right now we are fighting to keepmuch of it permanent open space, and Ilike to think we are continuing John Muirswork by setting this land aside as a specialplace for wildlife as well as people.

    Grassland dominates any walk here,and the current state of the grasslands tellsthe tale of ranching history. Before theearly settlers arrived, native perennial

    grasses covered the grasslands of FranklinRidge.These native grasses found itdifficult to compete with the non-nativegrasses spread in part by the cattle, butthey can still be found. Among them arescattered stands of purple needlegrass thatgrow on the Dutra and McHarry ranches.

    The plant grows in small, dense bunchesand may be seen near the trail.

    The grasslandplant communitysupports a robustrodent population,which in turn feedssnakes, mammals,and raptors. In thefall, resident rodentsare preparing forwinter. Among

    them are the dusky-footed woodrat and

    the meadow vole, both busy fortifyingtheir nests.The woodrat makes a nest oftwigs and leaves on the ground or in thetrees, where it stores winter food.Youmay see the voles extensive runwaysthrough the grass to their burrow entrances.

    With such abundant food sources,the land provides perfect conditions forraptorsCoopers hawks, red-tailedhawks, northern harriers, white-tailed

    kites, and peregrine falcons. Near duskor even during a daytime darkened byclouds, you might catch a glimpse ofa great horned, barn, or screech owl.

    Less than a mile from the Sky Ranchpeak, youll head downhill to reach theDutra family homesite, now a frequentresting spot for a small herd of cattle.Traces of the familys decades of workingthe land are reduced toa timeworn granary,an old corral, the

    well, a few rustedfarm implements andthree olive trees.Time has vanquishedthe home, the barn,and the windmill.

    Manuel Dutrasgranddaughter,Delores Moneypenny,remembers playing inthe hay barn as a girl, and sleddingdown the dry hills on pieces of cardboard,

    M U I R HERITAGELA N D TR U S T

    P.O.Box 2452

    Martinez, CA 94553925-228-5460 925-372-5460fax

    [email protected]

    www.muirheritagelandtrust.org

    STAFF

    Tina Batt

    Executive Director

    Mary Alice Stadum

    Executive Associate

    Beth Pardieck

    Stewardship Associate

    BOARDOF

    DIRECTORS

    Peter Langley

    Chair

    Nancy Schaefer

    Vice Chair

    Mary Ann Gaebe

    Secretary

    Mark Wilson

    Treasurer

    Dick Awenius

    Joseph Byrne

    Peter Colby

    Ken Fischer

    Sheila Grilli

    Steve PardieckMarj Ross

    Donn Walklet

    Bill Weiner

    EMERITUSBOARD MEMBERS

    Hulet Hornbeck

    Hal Olson

    Jack Telfer

    Everett Turner

    HONORARYBOARD MEMBER

    Jim Cutler

    EDITOR

    Sherida Bush

    NEWSLETTERCONTRIBUTORS

    Tina Batt

    Beth Pardieck

    Mary Alice Stadum

    Jim Cutler

    Newsletter design/editing:

    Public Media Center

    The Dutra Ranch Loop Trail continued from page 1

    M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T R U S T Open Space News 3

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    dodging cow droppings.We decided tosell to the land trust, she explained,becausethe land is our heritage, and because ourchildren, grandchildren, and great grand-children will be able to go up and enjoyit like everyone else.The view is beautiful.

    Rancher Bob Chapman leases the land

    for his cattle, an unusual Angus-Brahmanmix.Their horns look formidable but theanimals are docile. If you meet them, justwalk around them and dont get betweena mother and her calf. Chapman has beenranching in the area for more than 35

    years and loves the life, though its hardwork:Raising cows is 24/7, he said.

    The Muir Heritage Land Trust con-tinues to graze the property to clear outpotential fuel for fires. MHLT StewardshipAssociate Beth Pardieck is leading a proj-

    ect to encourage the regrowth of nativefreshwater marsh plants by fencing offnatural seeps and a stock pond from thecattle. Seasonal creeks, natural springs, andseeps feed the upper reaches of bothFranklin Creek and Rodeo Creek.

    After leaving the homesite, you aresoon cooled by an oak-bay woodland.Although coast live oak is dominant, somestands are mixed with a healthy numberof fragrant California bay trees. In the fall,black oaks and big leaf maples brighten

    the landscape with their fall colors.Nearing the end of the loop, youllpass through a gate back onto Sky Ranch.Along the way the woodland opens up tochaparral and scrub habitat. Coyote brush,chamise and California sagebrush are com-mon, along with poison oak, which in thefall dresses itself with leaves of showy red.

    Cattle ranching continues to influ-ence the Franklin Ridgemostly byhelping preserve it. Descendants of thoseearly ranchers speak of protecting theirfamily lands. Bill Fernandez great grand-father Bernardo left his native Portugal atage 13, sailed around the world, and set-tled in what is now Pinole.The familystill owns 700 acres of the land thatBernardo purchased 150 years ago, andthey plan to sell it to the Muir HeritageLand Trust. Its a prime opportunity toleave a legacy in honor of my greatgrandfather, said Bill Fernandez.[Itsespecially important] with developmentin the county going crazy.

    The ranch is still grazed, but remainsgently used and fertile habitat for wildlife,including several special status speciesthe Alameda whipsnake among them.Thewhipsnake has been captured near theFernandez property, and biologists believethe Franklin Ridge is home to the elusive

    snake.The fast-moving whipsnake is sootyblack with yellow-orange stripes runningits 5-foot length.The continued survival ofthe whipsnake depends on stemming theloss of habitat and habitat fragmentation.

    Some day you may be able to continuefrom this trail to Fernandez Ranch andbeyond on the Bay Area Ridge Trail. Ifthe efforts of the Muir Heritage LandTrust and numerous other agencies aresuccessful, Feeder Trail #1 and the DutraLoop Trail will become part of the Bay

    Area Ridge Trail.The trails,the land,the natural resources,

    the history of this area are all intertwined.The cattle ranches have been a part ofeach of them.The cattle disrupted andaltered the land long ago, yet have helpedkeep it an island of open space in a sea ofasphalt and stucco.Their imprints in the soiland in history lead us to the preservationof the land, to the creation of a vital openspace corridor for wildlife and for people.

    Getting ThereTake Highway 4 to the Alhambra Avenueexit. From the east, turn left (south) ontoAlhambra Avenue, go under the freewaythen turn r ight onto Franklin CanyonRoad. From the west, turn right ontoAlhambra Avenue and then immediatelyright onto Franklin Canyon Road.TakeFranklin Canyon Road about 1 mile toDutra Road, turn left.The trailhead,marked Contra Costa County FeederTrail #1, is about one-tenth of a mile upthe road.Watch for the yellow END signon the left just before the horse stables.Limited parking is available on the trailside of the road.

    Sherida Bush named her 10-year editorial business,

    RavenScribe Associates ([email protected]), after her

    favorite corvid. Shes a former editor at Psychology Today,

    and has written for numerous magazines and book

    publishers. She has designed and written publications for

    the Muir Heritage Land Trust over its 15-year history.

    The Muir Her itage Land Trust celebrated the Dutra Ranch

    acquisition on October 9 with a dedication on the property.

    THE MUIR HERITA

    LAND TRUST is please

    to announce the appoint

    of Linus Eukel as our new

    Communications and

    Development Director.

    Mr. Eukel will be respon

    for all aspects of the orga

    tions public awareness an

    development activities.

    He comes to the position

    with extensive administra

    experience in the public

    nonprofit sectors includin

    recent positions as

    Communications Manag

    for the Arts and Culture

    Commission of Contra CCounty and as Executive

    Director for the Sara She

    Mann Dance Co. in San

    Francisco. Additional bac

    ground includes over 15

    in the performing arts as

    featured soloist with mus

    organizations throughout

    United States. His academ

    credentials include an A.B

    in Music from the Unive

    of California at Berkeley

    a Master of Music degreefrom the University of N

    York. Mr. Eukel is a nativ

    of Walnut Creek where h

    currently resides with his

    Stephanie and their one-

    old daughter Olivia Ingeb

    STAFF UPDA

    The Dutra Ranch Loop Trail continued from page 3

    4 M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T R U S T Open Space News 7

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    Update: Point San Pablo Peninsula Open SpaceBy Jim Cutler

    The views are absolutely spectacular San Francisco,Marin and Contra Costashorelines all shimmer in the distance. Its the Point San Pablo Peninsula, ownedprimarily by Chevron/Texaco, the City of Richmond and the closed Point Molate

    Marine Terminal. In addition to the great views, the land retains a surprising variety ofwildlife habitat. The Point Molate property is in the process of being transferred fromfederal ownership to the City of Richmond.

    The Muir Heritage Land Trust is coordinating a study of open space and recreationpotential on the Point San Pablo Peninsula. In addition to the Land Trust, funding partnersfor the study include the State Coastal Conservancy, the East Bay Regional Park Districtand the City of Richmond.The study is exploring open space and recreational uses onthe peninsula, including a spur of the San Francisco Bay Trail, that are compatible withthe existing Chevron/Texaco refinery and the reuse of Point Molate being consideredby the City of Richmond.The study should be completed early in 2005.

    TODDKIKER

    Thank you to our members, volunteers, silent auctiondonors, supporters and the following sponsors for a successful

    15th Anniversary Celebration:

    The Ross Family

    Shell Oil Products US

    ConocoPhillips

    The Mechanics Bank

    Shapell Industries

    Old Republic Title Co.

    ChevronTexaco

    Tesoro Refining and Marketing

    Holland America Inc.

    East Bay Regional Park District

    NECA-IBEW

    Contra Costa Times

    15TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL GUEST SPEAKERS

    Doug McConnell Gary Bogue AssemblymanJoe Canciamilla

    State Senator Tom Torlaksonwith Tina Batt

    years

    L e t s C e l e b r a t e !

    M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T R U S T 1 5 Y E A R S A N D 1 , 5 0 0 A C R E S P R O T E C T E D

    A Night to Remember

    Guests gather under the stars...

    M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T R U S T Open Space News 5

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    The Alhambra Creek Restoration project is under way at the

    Martinez Adult School.Two years of planning and organizing

    paid off when the Urban Creeks Council staff began work inAugust.The first steps are removing sandbags, non-native

    vegetation and gabions, so we can then reconfigure the creek

    banks and restore native vegetation.The project involves hands-

    on participation by the students of Vicente Martinez Continuing

    Education High School and Briones Independent High School

    and coordination by the many partners: Urban Creeks Council,

    Friends of Alhambra Creek, Martinez Unified School District,

    City of Martinez and Muir Heritage Land Trust.

    GEORGESWANSON

    Eagle Scout Carl Swanson of Martinez designed and built, with

    his fellow scouts, two picnic benches this summer for the Land Trust

    as a community service project.The benches are now in place on

    the Dutra Ranch. Stop by for a picnic with a beautiful view of

    the Carquinez Strait and Contra Costa County. Thanks Carl!

    CATHYPARDIECK

    Las Lomas High School student

    Elizabeth King is presented with an award

    from Stewardship Associate Beth Pardieck forhelping protect the Dutra Ranch. Elizabeth

    and the Save Our Forests Club at Las Lomas

    raised over $1,000 last year toward Dutra

    with campus fundraisers, while teaching fellow

    students about the value of protecting local

    open space. Our thanks to Elizabeth!

    KRISTEN

    VAN

    DAMO

    FTHEURBAN

    CREEKSCO

    UNCIL

    StewardshipUpdate

    6 M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T R U S T Open Space News 7

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    Wear Our Logo with Pride!

    Members enjoyed a beautiful June 12th

    Land Bank hike above the Carquinez Strait led

    by East Bay Regional Park District Assistant

    General Manager, Bob Doyle. BEN

    PEASE

    Fernandez RanchJoin us for special hikes

    October 23 & November 20th

    to the Fernandez Ranch led byExecutive Director Tina Batt.Please call the office at 925-228-5460for reservations and directions.

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    M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T R U S T Open Space News 7

    Autumn Hikes

    STEPHENJOSEPH

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    O.Box2452,MartinezCA94553

    DDRESSSERVICEREQUESTED

    NonprofitOrg

    U.S.Postage

    PAIDDirectMail

    Center

    W H E N :

    Thursday, November 18th, 7:30-9:00 p.m.

    W H E R E :

    Land Trust headquarters,Telfer Building,

    604 Ferry St., 2nd floor, downtown Martinez

    W H AT :

    Executive Director,Tina Batt, will speak

    on the Land Trusts latest acquisition

    the historic 700-acre Fernandez Ranch.

    The Ranch has been in the Fernandezfamily since the late 1800s. Tina will report

    on the Land Trusts progress in fundraising

    for this purchase and provide a photo

    journey of the propertys scenic landscapes.

    Refreshments will be served, including

    delicious wines that local vintners will share

    with our guests.

    RSVP :

    Everyone is welcome and encouraged to

    attend. Please call the Land Trust office,

    925-228-5460, to reserve a space byNovember 12th and for directions.

    Come to MHLTs Annual Meet ing