fall 2004 muir heritage land trust newsletter
TRANSCRIPT
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The following article is condensed
from the October 2004 issue of
Bay Nature magazine.
Not willing to give up its secretseasily, the land is unpolished andthe trail less traveled by. It holds
deep and interconnected stories of humantoil and Californias history. Long ago, itdrew many wanderers from far-away reaches,some by wagon on the Emigrant Trail,others by long ocean voyages. Placing footto earth here connects you to their history.
The journey ended for these settlerswhere you will begin yourson theFranklin Ridge.The area begins at Mt.Wanda, part of the John Muir NationalHistoric Site in Martinez, and extendsnorthwest for some ten miles towardsHercules.The Dutra Loop Trail lies ontwo Land Trust properties, Dutra Ranchand Sky Ranch.
The Dutra Loop Trail begins onContra Costa County Feeder Trail #1, awide, dirt path that was once a stagecoachroad used to transport travelers betweenMartinez and Richmond.Youll travel forabout a mile uphill through grasslandsdotted with oaks and shrubs.
Past the Sky Ranch kiosk, the trailsleft fork rises to the top of a 1,000-foot
high peakthe highest on theranch. A bench invites you tostop and take in the sweepingvista beginning in the northwestwith the Napa Valley, movingsouthward to the CarquinezStrait and Mount Diablo.Tothe south, the highest ridgeof Briones Regional Park
lines the horizon.The nearby tree-covered
ridge to the northwest is theFernandez property, open spacethat the Muir Heritage Land
Trust is now raising money to purchase.Looking down and to the east, the belltower of John Muirs Victorian mansion sitsamong the treetops.On a very clear day, thesnow-covered Sierra might just be visible.
This open, oak-studded landscape,typical of the Bay Areas inner coastal hills,
is prime ranch land. Nearly 200 years ofcattle ranching have greatly influenced thehuman and natural history of the area.Even today the hoof-etched ridges in thehills announce their presence.
Ranching proved very successful forthose early pioneers. According to MaeFisher Purcells florid account in the Historyof Contra Costa County,Cattle was thewedge which opened the way to prestige,grandiloquence and opulence not thereto-fore dreamed of by the dons, land granteesand owners of huge acreages.
Ranchers often owned thousands ofcattle apiece, and the animals wanderedunimpeded. Owners would round themup only for the annual rodeos,wherecattlemen and their families would gatherfrom a 50-mile radius.The larger rodeoscounted 300 or more people and upwardsof 30,000 head of cattle.
Cattle ranching began in the FranklinRidge when Don Ignacio Martinez appliedfor a Spanish land grant of 17,000 acres in
continued on page 3
A U T U M N 2 0 0 4
InsideExecutive Directors Repor
Staff Update:
Meet Linus Eukel
MHLTs 15th Anniversary
Point San Pablo PeninsulaOpen Space
Stewardship Update
New MHLT Products
Autumn Hikes
Back Page: Save the Date!Annual Meeting Nov.1
But in every
walk with
Nature one
receives far morethan he seeks.
JOHN MUIR
Open Space newsM U I R HE R I T A G E LA N D T R U S T
The Dutra Ranch Loop TrailBy Sherida Bush
STEPHEN
JOSEPH
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The Muir Heritage Land Trusts 15th Anniversary celebration was a huge success!Many thanks to all of you who helped make it possible, including all our sponsors andspecial guests, Gary Bogue and Doug McConnell.The Land Trusts Outreach Committeetripled the funds raised from last years dinner, and provided a wonderful evening at thesame time.
I want to extend a special thanks to both Senator Tom Torlakson and Assemblyman
Joe Canciamilla, for joining us at the Celebration, and for all their help securing statefunding for the Fernandez Ranch acquisition.
While we celebrate 15 years of preserving some of Contra Costas most extraordinarylandscapes, the Muir Heritage Land Trust is facing a future that holds significant challenges.The Fernandez Ranch acquisition is our biggest project to date and will become the largestopen space preserve in the West County, in the middle of a wildlife and trail corridor that
extends from the Carquinez Strait south to Lamorinda.Once acquired, the Fernandez Ranch will require extensive creek restoration and
management. It will double our land holdings in the Franklin Ridge, putting us up tothe Hercules city limits, and contiguous with East Bay Municipal Utility Districts10,000-acre watershed lands.
Since the 15th Anniversary, weve been told that both the State Coastal Conservancyand the Wildlife Conservation Board are contributing $1,000,000 each to the FernandezRanch acquisition. Congressman Miller has been able to include an additional $1,000,000for Fernandez Ranch in the proposed federal transportation bill, however there is stilluncertainty whether that bill will be passed this year.
We will continue to ask for your support as we work through this fall.There aremany events planned including the Horsemans Benefit Ride in September, the DutraRanch dedication in October, and our Annual meeting in November (see page 8 fordetails). Linus Eukel, our new Development Director, will try to meet with as manyof you as he can. Hes a great addition to our small staff.
Finally, I want to thank all of you who supported the Contra Costa County OpenSpace Measure.While we were unsuccessful in passing the Measure, we were encouraged
by the approximately 50,000 yes votes.We are looking at a number of alternatives for afuture Measure, but in the meantime, our greatest challenge is to continue to build ourcommunity of land conservation supporters. It is more critical now than ever.
Thank you!
MHLT Executive Director
Executive Di rector s Repor t
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1823. He brought in breeding stock andsmall herds, turning them loose on hisvast estate. Martinez named his holdingsRancho El Pinole, and they extendedover land that today includes most of theFranklin Ridge, Pinole, Rodeo, Crockett,and Martinez.
The next wave of settlers to the areabegan in the mid-19th century. Dr. JohnStrentzel, John Muirsfather-in-law, purchasedhis property in 1853.Several miles north,
James McHarry pur-chased 500 acres in1856 for his cattleranch.Although theylived at opposite endsof the Franklin Ridge,
the McHarrys, Muirs,and Strentzels all kneweach other.John Muir would come tocall, McHarrys great-granddaughter,Miriam Awenius, said recently. Muirwould ask permission for my grandfathersdaughter Ada to go horseback ridingwith Muirs daughter Wanda.
Leading from the Sky Ranch peak,the trail winds toward Dutra Ranch.Manuel Dutra emigrated from Portugalto establish his cattle ranch in 1917.The
trail you walk here was also part of theMartinez-Richmond stagecoach route,and probably John Muirs stomping ground.Its inconceivable that Muirdidntwalkthat land, said Glenn Fuller,Superintendentof the John Muir National Historic Site.He loved tromping in those hills.
The Muir Heritage Land Trust (MHLT)bought the 159-acre Dutra Ranch earlythis year.The purchase was the linchpinin establishing 660 acres of contiguousopen space, an important corridor for
wildlife and trail linkages.The FranklinRidge is surrounded by cities, saidMHLT Executive Director Tina Batt.Right now we are fighting to keepmuch of it permanent open space, and Ilike to think we are continuing John Muirswork by setting this land aside as a specialplace for wildlife as well as people.
Grassland dominates any walk here,and the current state of the grasslands tellsthe tale of ranching history. Before theearly settlers arrived, native perennial
grasses covered the grasslands of FranklinRidge.These native grasses found itdifficult to compete with the non-nativegrasses spread in part by the cattle, butthey can still be found. Among them arescattered stands of purple needlegrass thatgrow on the Dutra and McHarry ranches.
The plant grows in small, dense bunchesand may be seen near the trail.
The grasslandplant communitysupports a robustrodent population,which in turn feedssnakes, mammals,and raptors. In thefall, resident rodentsare preparing forwinter. Among
them are the dusky-footed woodrat and
the meadow vole, both busy fortifyingtheir nests.The woodrat makes a nest oftwigs and leaves on the ground or in thetrees, where it stores winter food.Youmay see the voles extensive runwaysthrough the grass to their burrow entrances.
With such abundant food sources,the land provides perfect conditions forraptorsCoopers hawks, red-tailedhawks, northern harriers, white-tailed
kites, and peregrine falcons. Near duskor even during a daytime darkened byclouds, you might catch a glimpse ofa great horned, barn, or screech owl.
Less than a mile from the Sky Ranchpeak, youll head downhill to reach theDutra family homesite, now a frequentresting spot for a small herd of cattle.Traces of the familys decades of workingthe land are reduced toa timeworn granary,an old corral, the
well, a few rustedfarm implements andthree olive trees.Time has vanquishedthe home, the barn,and the windmill.
Manuel Dutrasgranddaughter,Delores Moneypenny,remembers playing inthe hay barn as a girl, and sleddingdown the dry hills on pieces of cardboard,
M U I R HERITAGELA N D TR U S T
P.O.Box 2452
Martinez, CA 94553925-228-5460 925-372-5460fax
www.muirheritagelandtrust.org
STAFF
Tina Batt
Executive Director
Mary Alice Stadum
Executive Associate
Beth Pardieck
Stewardship Associate
BOARDOF
DIRECTORS
Peter Langley
Chair
Nancy Schaefer
Vice Chair
Mary Ann Gaebe
Secretary
Mark Wilson
Treasurer
Dick Awenius
Joseph Byrne
Peter Colby
Ken Fischer
Sheila Grilli
Steve PardieckMarj Ross
Donn Walklet
Bill Weiner
EMERITUSBOARD MEMBERS
Hulet Hornbeck
Hal Olson
Jack Telfer
Everett Turner
HONORARYBOARD MEMBER
Jim Cutler
EDITOR
Sherida Bush
NEWSLETTERCONTRIBUTORS
Tina Batt
Beth Pardieck
Mary Alice Stadum
Jim Cutler
Newsletter design/editing:
Public Media Center
The Dutra Ranch Loop Trail continued from page 1
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dodging cow droppings.We decided tosell to the land trust, she explained,becausethe land is our heritage, and because ourchildren, grandchildren, and great grand-children will be able to go up and enjoyit like everyone else.The view is beautiful.
Rancher Bob Chapman leases the land
for his cattle, an unusual Angus-Brahmanmix.Their horns look formidable but theanimals are docile. If you meet them, justwalk around them and dont get betweena mother and her calf. Chapman has beenranching in the area for more than 35
years and loves the life, though its hardwork:Raising cows is 24/7, he said.
The Muir Heritage Land Trust con-tinues to graze the property to clear outpotential fuel for fires. MHLT StewardshipAssociate Beth Pardieck is leading a proj-
ect to encourage the regrowth of nativefreshwater marsh plants by fencing offnatural seeps and a stock pond from thecattle. Seasonal creeks, natural springs, andseeps feed the upper reaches of bothFranklin Creek and Rodeo Creek.
After leaving the homesite, you aresoon cooled by an oak-bay woodland.Although coast live oak is dominant, somestands are mixed with a healthy numberof fragrant California bay trees. In the fall,black oaks and big leaf maples brighten
the landscape with their fall colors.Nearing the end of the loop, youllpass through a gate back onto Sky Ranch.Along the way the woodland opens up tochaparral and scrub habitat. Coyote brush,chamise and California sagebrush are com-mon, along with poison oak, which in thefall dresses itself with leaves of showy red.
Cattle ranching continues to influ-ence the Franklin Ridgemostly byhelping preserve it. Descendants of thoseearly ranchers speak of protecting theirfamily lands. Bill Fernandez great grand-father Bernardo left his native Portugal atage 13, sailed around the world, and set-tled in what is now Pinole.The familystill owns 700 acres of the land thatBernardo purchased 150 years ago, andthey plan to sell it to the Muir HeritageLand Trust. Its a prime opportunity toleave a legacy in honor of my greatgrandfather, said Bill Fernandez.[Itsespecially important] with developmentin the county going crazy.
The ranch is still grazed, but remainsgently used and fertile habitat for wildlife,including several special status speciesthe Alameda whipsnake among them.Thewhipsnake has been captured near theFernandez property, and biologists believethe Franklin Ridge is home to the elusive
snake.The fast-moving whipsnake is sootyblack with yellow-orange stripes runningits 5-foot length.The continued survival ofthe whipsnake depends on stemming theloss of habitat and habitat fragmentation.
Some day you may be able to continuefrom this trail to Fernandez Ranch andbeyond on the Bay Area Ridge Trail. Ifthe efforts of the Muir Heritage LandTrust and numerous other agencies aresuccessful, Feeder Trail #1 and the DutraLoop Trail will become part of the Bay
Area Ridge Trail.The trails,the land,the natural resources,
the history of this area are all intertwined.The cattle ranches have been a part ofeach of them.The cattle disrupted andaltered the land long ago, yet have helpedkeep it an island of open space in a sea ofasphalt and stucco.Their imprints in the soiland in history lead us to the preservationof the land, to the creation of a vital openspace corridor for wildlife and for people.
Getting ThereTake Highway 4 to the Alhambra Avenueexit. From the east, turn left (south) ontoAlhambra Avenue, go under the freewaythen turn r ight onto Franklin CanyonRoad. From the west, turn right ontoAlhambra Avenue and then immediatelyright onto Franklin Canyon Road.TakeFranklin Canyon Road about 1 mile toDutra Road, turn left.The trailhead,marked Contra Costa County FeederTrail #1, is about one-tenth of a mile upthe road.Watch for the yellow END signon the left just before the horse stables.Limited parking is available on the trailside of the road.
Sherida Bush named her 10-year editorial business,
RavenScribe Associates ([email protected]), after her
favorite corvid. Shes a former editor at Psychology Today,
and has written for numerous magazines and book
publishers. She has designed and written publications for
the Muir Heritage Land Trust over its 15-year history.
The Muir Her itage Land Trust celebrated the Dutra Ranch
acquisition on October 9 with a dedication on the property.
THE MUIR HERITA
LAND TRUST is please
to announce the appoint
of Linus Eukel as our new
Communications and
Development Director.
Mr. Eukel will be respon
for all aspects of the orga
tions public awareness an
development activities.
He comes to the position
with extensive administra
experience in the public
nonprofit sectors includin
recent positions as
Communications Manag
for the Arts and Culture
Commission of Contra CCounty and as Executive
Director for the Sara She
Mann Dance Co. in San
Francisco. Additional bac
ground includes over 15
in the performing arts as
featured soloist with mus
organizations throughout
United States. His academ
credentials include an A.B
in Music from the Unive
of California at Berkeley
a Master of Music degreefrom the University of N
York. Mr. Eukel is a nativ
of Walnut Creek where h
currently resides with his
Stephanie and their one-
old daughter Olivia Ingeb
STAFF UPDA
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Update: Point San Pablo Peninsula Open SpaceBy Jim Cutler
The views are absolutely spectacular San Francisco,Marin and Contra Costashorelines all shimmer in the distance. Its the Point San Pablo Peninsula, ownedprimarily by Chevron/Texaco, the City of Richmond and the closed Point Molate
Marine Terminal. In addition to the great views, the land retains a surprising variety ofwildlife habitat. The Point Molate property is in the process of being transferred fromfederal ownership to the City of Richmond.
The Muir Heritage Land Trust is coordinating a study of open space and recreationpotential on the Point San Pablo Peninsula. In addition to the Land Trust, funding partnersfor the study include the State Coastal Conservancy, the East Bay Regional Park Districtand the City of Richmond.The study is exploring open space and recreational uses onthe peninsula, including a spur of the San Francisco Bay Trail, that are compatible withthe existing Chevron/Texaco refinery and the reuse of Point Molate being consideredby the City of Richmond.The study should be completed early in 2005.
TODDKIKER
Thank you to our members, volunteers, silent auctiondonors, supporters and the following sponsors for a successful
15th Anniversary Celebration:
The Ross Family
Shell Oil Products US
ConocoPhillips
The Mechanics Bank
Shapell Industries
Old Republic Title Co.
ChevronTexaco
Tesoro Refining and Marketing
Holland America Inc.
East Bay Regional Park District
NECA-IBEW
Contra Costa Times
15TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL GUEST SPEAKERS
Doug McConnell Gary Bogue AssemblymanJoe Canciamilla
State Senator Tom Torlaksonwith Tina Batt
years
L e t s C e l e b r a t e !
M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T R U S T 1 5 Y E A R S A N D 1 , 5 0 0 A C R E S P R O T E C T E D
A Night to Remember
Guests gather under the stars...
M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T R U S T Open Space News 5
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The Alhambra Creek Restoration project is under way at the
Martinez Adult School.Two years of planning and organizing
paid off when the Urban Creeks Council staff began work inAugust.The first steps are removing sandbags, non-native
vegetation and gabions, so we can then reconfigure the creek
banks and restore native vegetation.The project involves hands-
on participation by the students of Vicente Martinez Continuing
Education High School and Briones Independent High School
and coordination by the many partners: Urban Creeks Council,
Friends of Alhambra Creek, Martinez Unified School District,
City of Martinez and Muir Heritage Land Trust.
GEORGESWANSON
Eagle Scout Carl Swanson of Martinez designed and built, with
his fellow scouts, two picnic benches this summer for the Land Trust
as a community service project.The benches are now in place on
the Dutra Ranch. Stop by for a picnic with a beautiful view of
the Carquinez Strait and Contra Costa County. Thanks Carl!
CATHYPARDIECK
Las Lomas High School student
Elizabeth King is presented with an award
from Stewardship Associate Beth Pardieck forhelping protect the Dutra Ranch. Elizabeth
and the Save Our Forests Club at Las Lomas
raised over $1,000 last year toward Dutra
with campus fundraisers, while teaching fellow
students about the value of protecting local
open space. Our thanks to Elizabeth!
KRISTEN
VAN
DAMO
FTHEURBAN
CREEKSCO
UNCIL
StewardshipUpdate
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Wear Our Logo with Pride!
Members enjoyed a beautiful June 12th
Land Bank hike above the Carquinez Strait led
by East Bay Regional Park District Assistant
General Manager, Bob Doyle. BEN
PEASE
Fernandez RanchJoin us for special hikes
October 23 & November 20th
to the Fernandez Ranch led byExecutive Director Tina Batt.Please call the office at 925-228-5460for reservations and directions.
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M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T R U S T Open Space News 7
Autumn Hikes
STEPHENJOSEPH
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O.Box2452,MartinezCA94553
DDRESSSERVICEREQUESTED
NonprofitOrg
U.S.Postage
PAIDDirectMail
Center
W H E N :
Thursday, November 18th, 7:30-9:00 p.m.
W H E R E :
Land Trust headquarters,Telfer Building,
604 Ferry St., 2nd floor, downtown Martinez
W H AT :
Executive Director,Tina Batt, will speak
on the Land Trusts latest acquisition
the historic 700-acre Fernandez Ranch.
The Ranch has been in the Fernandezfamily since the late 1800s. Tina will report
on the Land Trusts progress in fundraising
for this purchase and provide a photo
journey of the propertys scenic landscapes.
Refreshments will be served, including
delicious wines that local vintners will share
with our guests.
RSVP :
Everyone is welcome and encouraged to
attend. Please call the Land Trust office,
925-228-5460, to reserve a space byNovember 12th and for directions.
Come to MHLTs Annual Meet ing