Fashion and apparel designing

Introduction

Current trend is the key word of fashion. An individual style can also be a fashion when it is related to the current

trend. Everyone has their own style according to their own choice but it cannot be a fashion when it is not related to the

present trend. The train of fashion neither ends nor it waits for anyone. This cycle run continuously whether you get it

on, accept it or not. Where a fashion end from there a new one starts. More popular fashion sustains for long time and

some others were too short due to lack of popularity and people’s acceptability. Sustainability and appearance of

fashion depends on culture, norms, values and so on. It changes when people get fatigue with. Moreover change of

season has a great impact on fashion development. Designing of fashion is a creative thing and the sector of fashion

designing is versatile too. A major part of fashion includes apparel designing. Live and materialistic accessories

support the fashion trend always and also help a person to be more trendy and fashionable.

Fashion is a general term for a popular style or practice, especially in clothing, footwear, accessories, makeup, body

piercing or furniture. "Fashion" refers to an idiosyncratic; however, often-habitual trend in a look and dress up of a

person, as well as to establish styles in behavior. "Fashion" usually is the newest creations made by designers and are

bought by only a few numbers of people; however, often those "fashions" are translated into more well-known or

current trends.

Fashion design is the art of the application of design and aesthetics or natural beauty to clothing and accessories.

Fashion design is influenced by cultural and social norms, and has varied over time and place. Fashion designers work

in a number of ways in designing the cloths and accessories. Some designers working alone and several of them are in

a group. They attempt to satisfy consumer desire for aesthetically designed clothing and due to the time boundary to

bring a garment onto the market they must have to anticipate the consumer desire.

Designer Karl Lagerfield said, “Fashion is a train that waits for nobody. Get it on or it’s gone.”

As early as 1600, Shakespeare wrote that ―fashion wears out more apparel than the man‖.

Principal & Elements of Fashion Design There are five different principles of fashion design and four different elements that apply to these principles.

The five principles are emphasis, rhythm, unit, balance and scale and proportion. The four different elements

are texture, color, line and form. Think of the principles as the directions for fashion and then the elements as

the ingredients used to achieve the principle. Each design will incorporate all of these different principles, as

it is only through a cohesive usage of all principles and elements that a successful and eye-catching design is

created.

Emphasis and Color The principle emphasis refers to the part of the design to which the eye is instantly drawn. This emphasis

element can be anything. Many times, the element of color is used for emphasis, as contrasting colors in a

design produces a lot of emphasis on that item that is contrasting. Color is a very important element as

everyone has their own favorite color. Color is also frequently used to express a specific mood.

Rhythm The rhythm principle refers to using items repeatedly. This can be repeating the same shape in the design,

repeating lines or details to form a pattern or repeating colors. Many times, a designer's complete collection

will have a specific rhythm as all the pieces are related in a similar way, such as using the same silhouette or

a specific color in all of the designs.

Texture The element of texture refers to the fabric being used. Fabric will feel a specific texture against the skin. The

texture also refers to how a fabric drapes. Using the proper fabric for a design is very important, as different

fabrics have different textures and will act in different ways. Texture in fashion refers to the properties held

and sensations caused by the external surface of an attire, either received through viewing or the sense of

touch.

Well, to be frank, it IS all about texture. A design with no texture is boring, dull, it’s not exiting, it’s not

flattering. It’s all about texture! Okay, a design without texture is difficult, they all use fabrics, doi! But it has

to be exiting! Mohair, marbled cotton tulle, leather, linen, lace, lamé, bouclé, cloqué, yarn, python, illusion,

iridescent, wool, and chiffon. All of this woven, twisted and patched together, that’s textuer!

Proportion, Scale and Balance The principle of proportion and scale ties into the balance principle. The proportion of a design is important

to achieve balance. A person would look very funny with an oversized head, just as a dress would look odd if

it had huge sleeves. These two elements, the head and the sleeves, are out of proportion with the rest of the

look. It is important to make all designs to scale so that the proportion of each piece is correct. Proportion

also refers to balance as a design can be symmetrical or asymmetrical. Asymmetrical balance can be quite

striking, but each piece needs to be properly proportioned or a person will look lopsided.

Lines The element of the style lines refers to the outline or silhouette of the design. There are many accessories and

items that can be used to create different lines. One very well known example of a line is the A-line. The A-

line can use belts or fitted waists. From the waist, the skirt flares out creating an "A" shape.

Lines in Clothing

Structural uses include Seams, darts, shirring, silhouette, edges of collars, lapels, pockets, belts,sleeves,

hems, openings, pleats, gathers, tucks, draping

Decorative uses included braid, rickrack, piping, rows of buttons, insertions, binding, lace edgings, ribbon,

soutache, topstitching, faggoting, ruffles, fringe, linear, embroidery, beading or fabric patterns such as

plaid,stripes, herringbones, checks, zigzags

A clothing line is a collection of different clothes and looks created by a designer or group of designers

called a clothing line, hence the Kardashian sister's collection "dash" or Sara Jessica Parker's line "Bitten"

Unity The principle of unity refers to all elements of the design being in harmony. A design that has unity will have

a sense of completeness while one that does not achieve unity will leave the viewer wondering if the design

is finished. Many times, accessories can be used to add unit to a design.

Shape and Form The element of shape and form refers to the visual element of the design. This is one of the first things that a

person notices with a design. The form refers to the designs or garments complete shape. The main goal of

the shape is to complement or fit a specific body type. The shape and form can emphasize specific areas of

the body while downplaying other less desirable areas. The shape tends to change depending on the current

trends.

Four basic elements of fashion design Four basic elements of fashion design are important in the design of any garment or fashion accessory.

Recognizing what the various elements may mean as far as their importance in making up a flattering

garment can sometimes help to women when they are choosing clothing or accessories.

1. Color Color is very important in fashion design, and there are many different color schemes that work well. A

quilter's color wheel shows compatible color combinations and can be useful when a woman is trying to

determine if certain separates or accessories will go with others in her wardrobe. In fashion, neutral colors

play a big role because they can be worn with anything, making them good wardrobe-building colors. Dark

colors can make a woman look thinner and thus look taller, a desirable effect for petite women. Because of

differences in complexion and hair color, some colors will flatter certain women and not others. To make this

design element work hard, a woman should know and wear her most flattering colors, and avoid colors that

don't look good on her.

2. Silhouette In other types of design, shape and form are considered elements; in fashion design, shape and form amount

to the silhouette of a garment and/or a fashion accessory item. Popular silhouettes in fashion change over

time. For example, in the early 1900s, the ideal silhouette consisted of a pigeon-breasted figure with the bust

jutting forward and the hips thrust backward. In the 1920s, a boyish, flat-chested shape was favored. A

garment's shape or cut has a great deal to do with whether or not a particular clothing item flatters the person

who is wearing it. Today's most desirable silhouette is an hourglass shape.

3. Line There are many instances of lines in fashion design. The creation of a garment means that there will be seam

lines to hold fabric sections together, the outline of a garment's silhouette is another line, and lines in the

fabric, which make up various patterns, must also be considered. Lines in any of these cases can be straight

or curved. Seam lines and lines in patterns that run vertically will flatter a petite woman more than horizontal

lines. Asymmetrical lines, such as chevron-striped fabric in a garment can also be flattering to a short

woman, depending on their placement.

4. Texture Texture is another element of fashion design. Fabric or other materials, such as trims and findings for

clothing and accessories, can have a variety of textures, all of which can affect the look of a garment or

fashion accessory. The weave and texture of a fabric have an impact on the way it drapes, which, in turn,

affects the way a garment looks when it is worn.

TEXTURES FOR DIFFERENT PRODUCTS

Designing clothes, it is important that the fabric texture should

produce a pleasant and comfortable feel to the skin.

Designing bags the texture can vary from soft, slightly rough ,

uneven texture for the aesthetic look .

Designing for kid’s clothes and accessory should be absolutely soft,

and comfortable to baby skin.

Designing for life style products which might not come in contact of

human body, can be uneven, rough, abrasive. Since uneven textures

creates light to reflect in different angles and giving a creative edge to

the surface.

Textiles, Textures & Fabric

Manipulation

Textile Inspirations - a textiles board focused on textures and fabric

manipulation techniques used for surface creation. Lots of textile

samples, sewing inspiration, draping & pattern cutting examples and

finished creative pieces for fashion design, usually with great use of

stitch, colour and embellishment to create pattern, texture a

dimensional detail.

Fabric Manipulation for fashion design

Couture Sewing Techniques, Couture Techniques, Fabrics Manipulation, Fashion Design, Dresses, Narrow

Pleated, Fabric Manipulation, Drapes, Light Hervé

Art Sculpture, Details Yiqing, Art Inspiration, Fabrics Manipulation, Textiles Art, Construction Textiles,

Couture Sewing, Yiqing Yinfw1213, Fabrics Construction

Fabric Manipulation for fashion design - structured straight row gathering for a decorative 3D textured

effect; creative fabric construction; couture sewing // Yiqing Yin amzing fashion installation work and textile

art sculpture of this genius of fabric manipulation.

World fashion industries:

Today fashion is a global industry, and most of the countries have a fashion

industry. Some countries are major manufacturing centers, notably Indonesia,

Malaysia, Philippines, China, Bangladesh, South Korea, Spain, Germany, Brazil

and India. Five countries have established an international reputation in fashion:

France, Italy, the United Kingdom, the United States, and Japan.

Figure 2: Fashion show, 2010

Movement of Fashion

Fashion cycle:

A fashion cycle is the term used to express the process that a type of fashion goes through and this is where designers

bring back something that was fashionable. The fashion first gains mass acceptance from the consumers and then with

time, the tastes and preferences of the consumers' ebbs, which causes the fashion to lose that acceptance [1]. In short

the way in which fashion changes according to its own way is usually described as a fashion cycle. Typically fashion

cycle is depicted as a bell shaped curve having five stages: introduction, rise in popularity, peak of popularity, decline

in popularity, and rejection stage.

Figure 1: Sequence of changes in fashion cycle.

Introduction of a style:

Designers interpret their research, thinking and creative ideas into appeal including accessories and show their design

for the first time at renowned fashion design centers or at local fashion shows during fashion week. Then offer the new

styles to the public but only few people can afford and accept the new style due to related high price value. This new

style consume high production cost that’s because designers create new designs by working hard, implementing new

ideas again changing elements such as line, shape, color, fabric, and details and their relationship to one another.

This ―latest fashion‖ may not yet be accepted by anyone or may be accepted by a limited number of people. In first

stage of the cycle, fashion implies only style and newness.

Rise in popularity:

In the second phase the new style is accepted ,purchased and worn by few peoples then it can attract the concentration

of many people and also the attention of buyers, dealers, hole-sellers and retailers by the press, media and the public.

Many dealers become interested to invest their money for the new design and for more profit some manufacturer’s

starts to copy it by using less expensive fabric and materials. To suit the needs of their own customers, some designers

may modify the most popular style on the basis of country, domain, religion and other related factors.

Peak of popularity:

When a fashion is at the height of its popularity, many manufacturers duplicate it. There are many versions available at

various price levels. Availability of those products at many price levels is one of the basic causes of its popularity.

Customers want clothes that are in the mainstream of fashion and volume production requires a likelihood of mass

acceptance. When an item survives long time it becomes a classic model.

Decline in popularity:

Demand for the item decrease gradually and consumers begin to look for something new. Consumers no longer willing

to buy them and market may be flooded with new items according to the buyer interest. Retail stores put such

declining styles on sale racks, hoping to make room for new merchandise.

Rejection of a style or obsolescence: People get bored with old one and eagerly want a new look. Though prices are low but people do not want to by them.

In the last phase of the fashion cycle, people are no longer interested, some consumers have already turned to new

looks, thus beginning a new cycle.

Components of fashion:

Chart 1: Major Components that represents fashion

Style:

Style is a particular characteristics or look in apparel. A style may come and go in fashion, but that specific style

always remains that style, weather it is fashion or not. Style mainly depends on the person and may vary from person

to person.

Change:

People get bored with what they have and look for change. So fashion needs changes constantly. One thing is

consistent in fashion and that is change.

Acceptance:

Acceptance is one of the pre-conditions of fashion. For fashion, acceptance is must because there is no fashion if

nobody buys it

Scopes of fashion design:

Fashion designing has a great demand worldwide. Along with creative sketching, the designers travel to fashion &

accessories shows or fabric houses. When most people think about a fashion career, they picture a designer sketching

an idea for a new dress, or a model walking down a runway to show off the latest design. [4].

Following are some regular apparel categories designers’ work with:

Table 1: Category wise area of fashion design

Fashion Marketing, Merchandising and Buying

Fashion Merchandising: A fashion merchandising job description is based around crafting a positive consumer

experience. From choosing what to sell, to deciding how it’s displayed in stores, fashion merchandisers have a

customer-focused approach. They know that presentation counts. Fashion merchandising experts subtly inspire

consumers to see the possibilities in their products.

Fashion Marketing: Fashion marketers are not so subtle. It’s their job to promote fashion. They want to generate

interest in new styles and products. Fashion marketing involves advertising, but it’s more than that. Fashion marketers

have to be on the cutting edge—endorsing the right thing at the right time. They connect the public with the world of

fashion, and they help set trends.

Fashion Buying: Fashion buyers have to be aware of the nuances of trends. They have to anticipate where styles are

going and what will catch on with consumers. Not every new style will make it to the marketplace. Fashion buyers

make decisions about what to sell and how much based on their knowledge of fashion history, market trends and

customer psychology.

Textile design V/S Fashion design

Textile Designer A textile designer creates designs, patterns for fabric and develops fabric structures. The end product of a textile designer is fabric and embellishment of fabrics. Textile designers select yarns, yarn colors and dyes to make new fabric textures, hand feel and finished look. Textile designers do raw material sourcing to production follow up for new development. They give instructions to weavers, knitters how to make the fabric they have designed. Textile designers develop fabrics for clothing, home made up and Carpets.

They not only create new fabric patterns but work with finished fabrics. They select prints to be printed on fabric. They

decide whether a yarn dyed stripe or printed stripe to be develop for fabric. During designing a product they consider

the technical aspects of production friendly and cost effectiveness. Textile designers work in textile manufacturing

companies, textile design firms.

Textile designer develop raw material for Fashion designers.

Fashion Designer

On the other side a fashion designer creates designs and patterns for clothing. Fashion designers also create

designs for footwear and accessories. They imagine a clothing design; sketch it on paper with colors, select

fabrics for the development and finally cut and sew the garment. They normally acquired knowledge on

fabric properties, garment pattern making, Garment Fits and human body shapes.

Fashion designers develop collection for retailers for each

season

Fashion designers source fabric and other accessories for their creations. If required fashion designers seek

help from textile designer for fabric designs what thought in their creations.

Fashion designers work in garment manufacturing companies, apparel buying houses or with buyers, design

firms and film industry.

Designing garment:

Fashion designers work in different ways. Some sketch their ideas on paper, while others drape fabric on a dress form.

When a designer is completely satisfied with the fit of the toile, he or she will consult a professional pattern maker,

who then makes the finished, working version of the pattern out of card or via a computerized system. The pattern

maker's job is very specific and painstaking. The fit of the finished garment depends on their accuracy. Finally, a

sample garment is made up and tested on a model to make sure it is an operational outfit. The fashion designer needs

to meet with a pattern maker and sample maker to figure out if the sketch on paper can be brought to life according its

vision.

Considering Theme for Apparel designing:

Features related to fashion and apparel design:

Shaping, fashionable cut and basic silhouette.

Surface ornamentation and decoration.

Length, width and construction.

Color, pattern, drape and texture of material.

Trimmings and accessories.

Styling:

For shaping and giving the apparel a fashionable cut basic silhouettes can be used: A-line, H-line, I-line, T-line, V-line,

X-line, Y-line, Bell-line, Balloon-line, Empire-line, Charleston-line, Empire-line, Princess-line etc.

V-Line the accent,

just like with the Y-Line

Balloon –Line

Sleeve

Surface decoration & ornamentation:

Decorative stitches & embroidery:

Design in apparel may be created by using different types of stitch like lock, chain, hand, zigzag stitch etc. The

decorative stitches on sewing machine are a quick and easy way to add embellishment and decorative design to all

sewing projects. As dozens of small stitches are used to complete a decorative stitch so there is a possibility to pucker

and distort stitches. To prevent this

Sew slowly, carefully and slightly loosen the top tension.

Use fine thread in the bobbin which will prevent birds’ nests in the bobbin area.

Use a tear-away or iron-on stabilizer underneath the fabric to provide support.

Various Stitches & Embroidery

Figure 4: Design using various types of stitches, embroidery and accessories

Appliqué & reverse appliqué:

In the context of designing and sewing, an appliqué refers to a needlework technique in which pieces of fabric,

embroidery, or other materials are sewn onto another piece of fabric to create designs, patterns or pictures.

Appliqué Reverse Appliqué

Figure 5: Quilt block in appliqué and reverse appliqué.

In a Reverse appliqué, several layers of material are stitched together, parts of the upper layers are cut away, and the

edges are stitched down. The largest cuts are made in the topmost layer .In case of reverseappliqué applied pieces

basically have their edges folded under, and are then attached by any of the following:

Straight stitch, typically 20-30mm in from the edge.

Satin stitch, all around, overlapping the edge. The patch may be glued or straight stitched on first to ensure

positional stability and a neat edge .

Pleats & Tucks:

Pleat is fold in cloth made by doubling the material upon itself and then pressing or stitching it into place. There are

four kinds of pleats, flat pleats, projecting pleats, accordion pleats and wrinkled pleating.

Tuck is a way of reducing fabric measurements in one or both directions. There are several types of tucks, such as

standard tucks, curved tucks, shell tucks, and slashed tucks.

Piping & bindings:

Binding is a way of neatening a raw edge using a separate length of fabric, usually in a contrasting color. Piping is a

way to emphasize a seam or edge and can add strength to corners that might receive a lot of wear.

For both binding and piping strips of fabric cut on the bias are used as this makes them slightly stretchy. Instruction of

Piping and binding is given below;

Instructions on cutting bias strips

Figure 8: Bias strips and seam line

1. To cut bias strips fold the fabric diagonally as shown in figure 8, so that the straight edge remains parallel to the

selvedge.

2. Press or iron this fold and use this crease as a guide to mark parallel lines for bias strips.

3. To join bias strips place two lengths, right sides together, right angles to each other and stitch.

4. After stitching open out, press seam open and trim off the overlapping edges.

Instructions on binding an edge

Figure 9: Constructions of binding

1. Cut bias strips 4 times the finished width of the binding required.

2. Fold both raw edges to the centre on the back and iron.

3. Open up one side of the binding.

4. Place this side of the binding onto the right side of the fabric raw edge

5. Then stitch along the folding line.

6. Fold the binding over the raw edge to another side (wrong side) of the fabric.

7. Pin and slipstitch the fold of the binding to line of stitches on that side.

Instructions on piping

Figure10: Piping with cord

Piping can be made by covering cord with strips of bias cut fabric. The cord comes in a range of thicknesses and is

readily available from fabric and upholstery stores.

Combination of pleats tucks, piping bindings

Fig-13 represents the katan silk with brocade borders on the bottom and brocade paisley appliqué embroidery on ghera.

The collection is exquisitely stitched with pin tucking and pleating details.

Figure 11: Combination of pleats tucks, piping bindings

Frills & flounces:

Frillsare gathered, ruched, or pleated strip of cloth sewn on at one edge only, as on garments, as ornament, or to give

extra body.

Figure 12: Uses of frills, flounces in skirts, sleeves and marriage gown

Flounces give fluffy looks in apparel, mainly used to furnish an outstanding look in baby, girl and women dresses.

Laces & braids:

A braid is a complex structure or pattern formed by intertwining three or more strands of flexible materials such as

textile fibers, wire or human hair. Lace is an openwork fabric, patterned with open holes in the work, made by machine

or by hand. The holes can be formed via removal of threads or cloth from a previously woven fabric, but more often

open spaces are created as part of the lace fabric.

Dress design stand on lace

Figure 13: Laces and braids utility on fashion designing

Color and other properties of materials:

Use of different colors and various types of fiber, yarn, fabric and finishing can develop a new apparel design. Design

can also be created by varying, length width, number and design of pockets, sleeve, position of sleeve, collar, pockets

etc.

Figure 14: Creation of new design by changing color, texture, and construction of fabric

Trimmings:

Cord is a trimming made by twisting two or more strands together. Interlining is the process of joining or attaching

special fabric in between two components or pattern of any garment to retain the original shape, increase

attractiveness, stiffness etc.Linings, padding, fasteningare also considered as trimmings.Those also have considerable

impact on fashion Designing.

Figure 15: Lining & Interlining

Accessories:

Accessories are often chosen to specifically complement the wearer's look.

Fashion accessories can be loosely categorized into two general areas:

those that are carried

those that are worn

Traditional carried accessories include purses and handbags, hand fans, umbrella sand ceremonial swords. Smart

phones, miniaturized portable music players , earphones and earplugs, and computing devices may also be regarded as

fashion accessories.

Accessories that are worn may include jackets, boots and shoes, cravats, neckties, belts, gloves, muffs, jewelry,

watches, sashes, mufflers, shawls, scarves, socks, and stockings.Hair ornaments include hairpins, hair clips hair sticks,

headbands, and artificial flowers etc.

Sunglasses, colored or shaped contact lenses, and other eyewear are commonly used as fashion accessories.

Handbags, shopping bags, briefcases, courier bags, daypacks, camera bags, and even large backpacks have fashion

implications beyond their use for carrying items. Jewelry is a major subcategory that includes rings, ear rings, nose

pins, tie tacks, necklaces, bracelets, lapel pins, and other wearable adornments.

Some professions have developed special accessories whose distinctive look has later been adopted by others as

fashion statements such as "ten-gallon hats" (cowboys),hardhats (construction workers), fishing vests (fly fishermen),

aviator sunglasses (aircraft pilots), sailor caps (mariners), cargo pants (military and outdoorsmen), and a variety of

athletic shoes from different sports.

Live Accessories: Small pets, including toy dogs, birds, snakes, and chirping crickets have been carried as fashion accessories. Talking

parrots are widely recognized as part of a stereotypical pirate outfit.

Figure 16: Live Accessories

Flowers, in the form of nosegays, boutonnières, corsages, wreaths, bouquets and other forms, have long been used as

living fashion accessories. In addition, beautiful women companions of rich and powerful men have often been

characterized as "arm charms" or "arm candy", and small children have been called the ultimate luxury fashion

accessory.

Ten Most Famous Fashion Designers of All Time: Coco Chanel(French), Donna Karan(New

York), Giorgio Armani(Italian fashion designer), Calvin Klein(New York), Donatella Versace(New York), Ralph

Lauren(Boston) ,Christian Dior(French designer), Tom Ford(Texas), Pierre Cardin(French fashion designer),

Yves Saint Laurent(French fashion designer).

Conclusion:

Fashion may be used to promote a cause, for example, to promote healthy behavior, to raise money for a cancer cure,

to raise money for local charities. One up and coming fashion cause is trash ion which is using trash to make clothes,

jewelry, and other fashion items in order to promote awareness of pollution.

In today’s competitive fashion world fashion design is a very important element for fashion marketing. Shape,

silhouette, and style—these words capture the essence of apparel design. Decisions about shape, silhouette, and style

guide the design development process. Designers and merchandisers give careful consideration to these fundamentals

for even the most basic garments.