fixing your sewing machine

7/29/2019 Fixing Your Sewing Machine

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Fixing Your Sewing Machine

The purpose of this guide is to provide some practical and effective things to do when your

sewing machine stopped working.

You will be AMAZED at how often sewing machines arrives at the sewing shop when basic

things were not done properly! Wrong or blunt needle, incorrect threading or lack of oil to name

a few. By following the next 5 steps, your machine should work properly or really needs a visit

to the sewing shop.

So, where do you start?

First, lets check some basic guidelines. No matter what type and make of machine, basic

principles remains the same.

STEP 1: CLEANING AND OILING. Remove the upper thread, bottom bobbin or shuttle and

needle. With the presser foot up, try to run the machine at full speed for one minute. If you hear a

noticeable variation of the speed, your machine may need some oil. If you still have the manual

then follow it. If not, proceed like this: try to remove the top cover if your machine has one. If

not, you should be able to find holes on top of it. Apply only a drop of SEWING MACHINE

OIL (not 3 in 1 oil or any other kind of oil or rust inhibitor). Next, reach the bottom of your

machine. If it is equipped with a base cover, try to remove it to gain access to the

mechanism. After removing any dust, lint, broken needles debris and straight pins, apply a drop

of oil to each moving part. By turning the hand wheel slowly (always towards you for 98% of

them), you will see all the moving parts joints that needs to be oiled. Many parts already have a

small hole especially for oiling. Remember one small drop of oil in each joint is enough! Please

note: If your machine's handwheel turns towards the back like the old White-Rotary, always turn

it the same way!

STEP 2: THE FEED DOGS. With a flat screwdriver, remove the needle plate retained by 2

screws. On some Elna, Pfaff and Bernina models, you will have to remove the bed’s top plate on

which the needle plate is fixed. Some of them are snapped in place and no screws are holding

them. When removed, clean the feed dogs. Try to pass a rag under them and with an old needle

or narrow tool, remove the lint inside the feed channels. Put back the needle plate. If your



machine is equipped with a FEED DROP, be sure the feeds are set at UP position. By turning the

hand wheel (towards you), check to see if the feeds make their movement. While doing this, you

may check also the reverse mechanism to see if the feed dogs moves backward. If the feeds does

not move at all, a major problem occurred, do not go further!

STEP 3: THE UPPER TENSION. Most sewing machine problems are related to the thread

tension. Learn this basic principle right now: the upper tension determines your UNDER stitch.

And the bobbin (bottom) tension determines your UPPER stitch. Unless you are experimented to

dismantle the upper tension unit or if it’s explained in your manual, follow this simple technique.

Dust, lint and pieces of broken thread often stick between the tension discs. This cause a gap

between the tension discs and no pressure is applied to the thread resulting of thread loops

underneath. Take an 8" length of thread and make 3 to 4 knots in it (as pictured below). Thread

your tension system with this piece of thread a few times in all directions. This will remove any

lint residue between the tension discs. Try it for the first time with the presser foot UP and then

with the presser foot DOWN. When the presser foot is down and the tension dial set at number 4,

you should be able to feel a tension when pulling the thread. If so, the upper tension system is

working properly.

STEP 4: THE BOTTOM BOBBIN. Your machine can be equipped with a removable bobbin

case, a drop-in bobbin or a shuttle. First, try to wind a bobbin with the bobbin winder. If you see

a small hole close to the bobbin spindle, apply only a small drop of oil and wipe any excess.

Check also for the condition of the bobbin winder rubber tire. If you can see cracks and worn flat

surfaces, replace it. This very popular item is available at any sewing shop for a dollar or so.

When winding a bobbin, check to see of the thread winds evenly from each side of the bobbin.

Then check the bottom of your bobbin case. Remove any lint pancake. Install your bobbin in it.

By pulling the thread, you should feel a very soft tension on the thread. If not, some clogged lint

may be laying between the small tension spring and the bobbin case itself.



STEP 5: THE SEWING TEST. As simple as it looks, you have made all the basic steps any

repairmen will do on a sewing machine! It’s time now to try it by doing a professional sample.

First, install a BRAND NEW NEEDLE (size 14 if possible). So many troubles are related to the

needle, even if it looks like new, don’t take any chance! Insert the needle the right way. The flatside has to face left, back or right. Refer to your manual. Just in case you have no manual, here

are some tips. The first system is a FRONT LOAD machine (front load means you put the

bobbin/bobbin case IN FRONT of the machine. It can be a front drop in bobbin or a bobbin case

placed under the machine in front of you. On such models, you always insert the needle so the

flat side will face rear of machine. You will thread the needle from FRONT TO REAR. The

other system is the LEFT LOAD machine. On any make (except many Singer machines), the flat

side of the needle shank should face the right side of machine. You will need to thread the needle

from LEFT TO RIGHT. This apply also to the old shuttle Singer 27, 128 and 128 machines and

models 99, 185, 192, 217, 237 and 239.

LEFT LOAD FRONT LOAD

The last system, which includes many Singer models, is also a left load bobbin case but, the flat

side of the needle is facing left. You will need to thread the needle from RIGHT TO LEFT. This

apply to the following Singer models: All Featherweights 221 and 222, all the 15 series and the

201.

Once the needle is inserted correctly, up into the needle clamp as far as it will go, tighten the

needle clamp thumb screw firmly but NEVER with a screwdriver!

You are now ready for a professional test sample. Thread the machine properly with the presser

foot up, leaving a 6 inches length of thread under the foot. Catch the bottom thread by turning the

hand wheel towards you so the needle goes down and up. Be sure both threads are under the footand the upper tension dial set at number 4. Place the stitch length lever/knob at the longest stitch.

Put 2 or 3 layers of regular cotton under the foot. The presser foot down, turn the hand wheel so

the needle goes inside the fabric (completely down). Then run the machine at medium speed for

the first stitch row. Check underneath: the stitch should be identical to the top one. No loops,

only a tight stitch. If any loops are found underneath, raise the upper tension slightly and make a



second stitch row. Try also the reverse stitch a few times while sewing (do not stop to engage the

reverse). The thread should not break. Check also for loops underneath on the stitches made with

the reverse. If everything is good so far, run the machine at full speed making a few stitch rows.

If your machine is equipped with the zigzag, try it. The zigzag stitch should be the same on topand bottom.

Remember this: If your upper thread break instantly, many chances are the needle was inserted in

the wrong position. Or your spool of thread is too old! Here is another tip about old spools of

thread that break often: Put them all in a tight plastic bag for one night outside your house. The

very next morning, this thread will be as fresh as a new spool and will be more resistant to

breakage.

By sewing often with any sewing machine, the oil will always be equilibrated in the upper and

bottom mechanism. Any rubber belts will rejuvenate by moving. The motor carbon accumulation

will stabilize and all the electrical system contacts will have less chance to oxidize. So many

machines needs service for the only reason they were not in operation since many months if not

years. Well like anything else, sewing machines has to run to keep them in great condition.

This guide is intended to be helpful to millions of sewing machines manufactured over the

years. However, many small manufacturers started to produce hundreds of models and

brandnames on a short period of time. It could be possible that some specific informations

(threading, needle position) in this guide does not apply to a specific machine. The best

reference then would be in the original manual.

Of course, there are other considerations about servicing sewing machines, but these basics can

get you started. Thank you for your time and please do not hesitate to e-mail me for any

particular question. I will gladly put over 30 years of sewing machine experience at your

service!

If you’ve enjoyed this guide your vote would be appreciated :-)

Happy Sewing!!

fixing your sewing machine

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