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Cosy up for winter food www.food-mag.co.uk Devon’s favourite food magazine Slow cooked COMFORT FOOD things to do this November • making toffee apples • growing garlic • eating at Dukes and The Hoops Inn November 2010 Issue 40 free Make a gourmet Christmas pud WE’VE GOT THE GIDLEIGH PARK RECIPE! Win! a hamper and luxury winter break FOODIE CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE Other lovely stuff:

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fantastic Magazine on the best of Devon

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Cosy up for winter

foodwww.food-mag.co.uk

Devon’s favourite food magazine

Cosy up for winterSlow cooked

COMFORT FOOD

things to do this November • making toffee

apples • growing garlic • eating at Dukes and The Hoops Inn

Nov

embe

r 20

10Is

sue

40

free

Make a gourmet Christmas pud

WE’VE GOT THE GIDLEIGH PARK RECIPE!

Win! a hamper and

luxury winter break

FOODIE CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE

Other lovely stuff:

Devon Nov10 Cover.indd 1 13/10/2010 09:28:46

2 | www.food-mag.co.uk

RHS GardenROSEMOOR

www.rhs.org.uk/rosemoor

RHS Garden ROSEMOOR

Great Torrington Devon EX38 8PH

RosemoorChristmas Food FairSunday 5 December

Festive Treats and gastronomic goodies

Delicious Christmas Lunches

Served every Tuesday and Thursday starting on the

7 December.

Christmas Party NightFriday 17 December

Bored of the usual Christmas Party Venue then why not join us

and celebrate Christmas.

Contact us for further details on 01805 626 821

MOVE BETWEEN THE RELAXED RESTAURANT AND BUZZY BAR.

CHOOSE FROM MENUS THAT INCLUDE TAPAS TO SHARE, PAELLA, SEAFOOD PLATTERS AND FILLED ITALIAN BREADS, FROM LUNCH ‘TIL LATE.

SINK INTO LEATHER SOFAS WITH SPECIALITY COFFEE AND CAKE FROM OUR PATISSERIE.

ENJOY CHAMPAGNE BY THE GLASS AND CLASSIC COCKTAILS.

HEAR LIVE JAZZ, BLUES, ACOUSTIC SETS AND DJS ON THURSDAY

L I L I C O ’ ST A P A S L O U N G E & B A R

01271 372933 W W W. L I L I C O S . C O . U K

BRIDGE BUILDINGS, BARNSTAPLE

EX32 8LS

Devon Nov10 S1.indd 2 13/10/2010 09:33:42

www.food-mag.co.uk | 3

Win!a Darts Farm Luxury West

Country HamperA lucky reader could enjoy the best

local food and drink this Christmas by winning a top-notch Darts Farm Luxury West

Country Hamper. Darts Farm near Exeter is an award-winning farm shop, food and

lifestyle shopping destination, with one of the widest selections of food and drink

from producers from the West Country and around the world. The hamper is bursting with favourite local artisan produce, from

Georgie Porgie’s Christmas puddings to award-winning local wine. If you aren’t lucky

enough to be one of the winners, you can buy this hamper and others at Darts Farm or

order them through the Darts website.

Q. Which fruit is traditionally put in children’s stockings at Christmas?

www.dartsfarm.co.uk

Win!How to enter

To enter any or all of the competitions, simply email the answers to [email protected] by November 30, 2010.

See page 5 for terms and conditions.

Win!A gourmet getaway at Combe House Hotel in Somerset

Need a spot of relaxation before the Christmas rush starts? Combe House Hotel in rural Somerset is offering you the chance to escape! Tucked away in the heart of the Quantock Hills, the hotel sits in a peaceful wooded valley, and the idyllic setting is made all the richer by the fantastic food available, with lots of ingredients sourced from

the fields and seas of Somerset and Devon. If this sounds like the perfect pre-Christmas getaway to you, you’ll be pleased to know that we have a two-night stay for two people to be won. The winners will be treated to a three course dinner in the restaurant and a beauty treatment of their choice. To be in with a chance of winning this relaxing break, simply answer the following question.

Q. What does “combe” in a place name mean?

www.combehouse.co.uk

Win!

Win!A gourmet getaway at Combe House Hotel in Somerset

Devon Nov10 S1.indd 3 13/10/2010 14:40:51

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Roaring Fire!(or three)

The only gastro pub on the North Devon/Cornish border. Find us on the A39 ‘twixt Bideford and Clovelly, for lunch, dinner and accommodation. T: 01237 451222 e: [email protected]

www.hoopsinn.co.uk

200 Wines, Cask Ales, AA Rosette Food, 100+ Car Park and a

Award-Winning Gastro PubThe Hoops Inn

Tel: 01803 837180 Email: [email protected] Sandquay Road, Dartmouth, Devon TQ6 9PH.

www.wild�rebistro.com

The best views in Dartmouth served with the �nest Devon ingredients.

3 Teign Street, Teignmouth, TQ14 8EA. Tel: 01626 775321Email: [email protected]

Open for coffees, lunch & dinner seven days a weekDelicious food freshly prepared in-house using the finest

seasonal ingredients brought direct from the pastures and seas of Devon.

Sunday lunch £9.95* * *

Function room available for private parties of up to 30, no extra fee

* * *Christmas Party Menus for Christmas Day

and New Years Eve

see www.theowlandpussycat.co.uk for more information

Devon Nov10 S1.indd 4 13/10/2010 14:40:55

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Meet the food team

Editorial director: Jo ReesFeatures editor: Stef Fox AdcockSales director: Nick CooperRegional client managers: Abbey Allen, Natalie Roberts, Catherine FarinhaPublishing director: Kevin WhitchurchPublishing manager: Oz Flanagan

ContributorsSusy Atkins, Ismay Atkins, Rob Flemming, Helena Murch.

PhotographySalt Media, Eblex, Istock/Creativeye99, Istock/Steven Aja, Istock/YinYang, Istock/Donna Poole, Istock/Ellen Moran, Istock/Nicoolay, Istock/Alan Hewitt, Istock/Joan Vicent Cantó Roig, Istock/Carla Guastella, Istock/Elena Moiseeva, Istock/Oliver Suckling, Istock/Robyn Mackenzie, Istock/MiquelMunill, Istock/Somatuscani, Istock/Quavondo, Istock/Joanne Green, Istock/Eric Hood, Istock/Oksana Struk, Istock/By_nicholas, Istock/Wayne Langley, Istock/Amy Jussel, Istock/Carrie Bottomley, Istock/Enviromantic, Istock/Gaffera, Istock/Alex Potemkin, Istock/Felinda, Istock/Daniel76, Istock/Tuomas Kujansuu, Istock/Nicolas Hansen, Istock/Levesquec, Istock/Juanmonino, Istock/Andy Green, Istock/Lew Robertson, Istock/Foodandwinephotography, Istock/ShyMan, Istock/Bochkarev Photography, Istock/John Pavel, Istock/Elisabeth Coelfen, Istock/Tamara Kulikova.

Thanks to our advertisers for supporting the magazine that supports the local food industry.

Published by Salt Media Ltd, 5 Cross Street, Barnstaple, Devon, EX31 1BA. Tel. 01271 859299.

www.saltmedia.co.uk

Copyright: the contents of this magazine are fully protected by copyright and may not be reproduced without permission.

Disclaimer: while every effort has been made to ensure that adverts, details and articles appear correctly, food cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of this publication. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor.

Competition terms and conditions: the Darts Farm hamper will be delivered to the winner’s home address. Darts Farm will need at least three days’ notice of the desired delivery date. All items in the hamper are subject to availability and will be substituted with an item of the same or higher quality and value if unavailable. In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all food competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by email. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competition is open to UK residents only, except employees and families of Salt Media Ltd. or the competition sponsors, or anyone professionally linked with the competition. Only one entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. Salt Media Ltd accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity relating to this competition, and to have their email address passed to the competition partner for marketing purposes. We don’t sell our list of names. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition of food. The judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability.

Competition winners: in the last issue the competition winners were Geoffrey Cooke and Nichola Jones.

Advertise in food

food magazines are the leading food and drink publications in the South West, with editions for Devon, Cornwall, and Bristol, Bath and Somerset. There are ten magazines per year, published by Salt Media.

To advertise in Devon please call:Abby Allen on 07827 487156 or email: [email protected]

To advertise across all three editions of food please call: Nick Charles on 07795 084327 or email: [email protected]

WelcomeNovember 2010

www.food-mag.co.uk

Find food magazine on

food magazine is also on

Follow us at: www.twitter.com/food_mag

food is printed on paper from environmentally-managed forests. Please recycle it, or better still, pass it on.

Abbey

WelcomeTHE PERFECT

10Welcome to our new

10 issues-per-year

frequency W e were overwhelmed

by your response to our competition to win a slow

cooker last year. Since then we’ve been waiting for winter in order to do a feature on slow cooking, with lots of lovely wintery recipes that would be terrific to come home to. I hope you enjoy it.

‘The steamy, cinnamon-scented day spent keeping

the water topped up, signals the start of the festive season’

When it comes to slow cooking though, nothing trumps the time it takes to cook the Christmas pud – up to ten hours steaming in total. However the stirring, the wishes, and the steamy cinnamon-scented day spent keeping the water topped up - signals the start of the festive season. It’s a tradition I love keeping each year. If you’ve never made your own Christmas pud, take a look at our recipe feature; I hope it inspires you to make 2010 the year you start a new tradition of your own. Good luck with the festive prep, and catch you in December with some fabulous recipes for entertaining.

Jo Rees, editor Join the new food reader club and

each month we’ll email you seasonal

recipes, news and foodie tips.

Just go to the website: www.food-mag.co.uk

Devon Nov10 S1.indd 5 13/10/2010 14:40:57

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Our experienced chefs are

passionate about using the

very best, locally sourced

ingredients; from flappingly

fresh seafood and perfectly

butchered meats, to

meltingly moreish pastries

and crisp, young seasonal

vegetables - a dedication

to quality that has to be

sampled to be believed.

We look forward to

welcoming you soon.

Great British Pub Awards 2009 - Best Dining Pub South WestHall and Woodhouse - Best Food Pub 2009The Wheelwright Inn, Swan Hill Road, Colyford, Devon EX24 6QQ(01297) 552585 www.wheelwright-inn.co.uk

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3 Win! A Christmas hamper from Darts Farm, and a relaxing gourmet break in Somerset.

8 To start What’s hot right now.

11 6 things to do this November

13 This season ... get creative with toffee apples.

15 Eating out We visit Dukes in Sidmouth and The Hoops Inn near Bideford.

18 Slow foodSlow cooking is back!

26 Cook like a pro-chef Recipes from @Angela’s, and Harry’s in Exeter.

30 Sweet centrepiece Make your own Christmas pud.

36 All I want for Christmas ...Get stuck into our foodie Christmas gift guide.

43 5 minute guide... to creating a kitchen using local materials.

44 Gourmet gardenerGrowing garlic.

47 food reader club48 Source it

49 Super markets

50 foodfileFi Daly of Prince Hall Hotel on Dartmoor.

ContentsNovember 2010

COVERSTORY 18

13

Recipes from @Angela’s, and

36 All I want for Christmas ...Get stuck into our foodie

43 5 minute guide

36

30

‘If people really don’t want

to be apart from their dog, they can even have their dinner served in the lounge.’ Fi Daly, ofPrince Hall Hotel

50

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one minutePROFESSIONAL

CHEF

Clive Leonard

‘This season there’s always an abundance

of root vegetables. Parsnips are great with

a roast, so here’s a tip on how to make yours extra

crunchy. Heat some oil on a tray in the oven, par-boil the parsnips,

drain, season, and lightly coat in semolina. Then return to the oven,

turning twice until golden brown.’

Zena’s Restaurant1 Market Street,

Barnstaple, EX31 1BX.Tel. 01271 378844.

www.zenasrestaurant.com

... and so do you, by the sound of it. Lakeland is reporting that sales of bakeware have more than doubled over the past two years, and that decorating and icing products are up by a whopping 70% year on year. Go bakers!

baking

The Angel in Dartmouth has been acquired by the high � ying 10 in 8 group and will re-open in January with a new chef under its original name, The Carved Angel.

Tuk tuk in It’s hard to imagine a more knowledgeable and inspiring

guide to Thai food than David Thompson, so we’re excited that he’s followed up his acclaimed Thai Food with a new tome. Thai Street Food, with its spicy recipes and vibrant photography, is the perfect antidote to winter gloom. food readers can order a copy at the special price of

£30, including free p&p (rrp £40). Call 01903 828503 and quote code CON83.

to start

Devon Nov10 S2.indd 8 13/10/2010 13:55:12

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Colonel’s CurryColonel Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert created the first authentic Anglo-Indian curry powder in 1878, whilst serving in the Indian army in Madras. Devon spice company Chiman’s has just released the exact original spice blend. www.chimans.co.uk

Totnes Good Food SundayTotnes is fast on its way to having one of the biggest food markets in the county. Launched in June, the Totnes Good Food Sunday market is an “open market” - the only criteria for inclusion is quality. You’ll find around 35

terrific regular traders from the South West including Super Salads (pictured with selling their gourmet micro-greens), Red Peach Patisserie, Woodfruit Mushrooms, Smokey Joe Sauces, Dartmouth Smokehouse and Jamie at Home cookware. Upcoming dates: November 21 and December 19.www.totnesgoodfood.co.uk

food newsCombe House in Gittisham near Honiton has been named 2010 Devon Hotel of the Year at the Devon Tourism Awards. As the winner, Combe House has been automatically fast-tracked into the South West Tourism Excellence Awards which will be announced this month, and then possibly on to the national Enjoy England awards in spring 2011. Proprietors Ken and Ruth Hunt (pictured above, far left and far right) praised the efforts of their staff in winning the award: ‘This unexpected honour for our small, country house hotel reflects back on our wonderful, welcoming, happy and hard working team,’ said Ken. • Top West Country butchers Gerald David & Family has opened a new shop at Countryman’s Choice Farm Shop, next to Endsleigh Garden Centre in Cadleigh Park, Ivybridge. • Browns Hotel in Tavistock has launched a new dining venue: The Library. The top-end restaurant has been designed to provide an extra special dining experience with top levels of service and high-quality fine dining from Browns’ exec chef John Hooker, who has achieved two AA rosettes and many other accolades during his career. • Hot off the press! The Jack in the Green at Rockbeare has been named one of the UK’s Top 100 Restaurants. The restaurant was placed at 52nd – a remarkable leap from 80th last year. We’ll report on the other local inclusions in the December issue. • New research from the Fair Food Campaign for Making Local Food Work has shown that consumers are becoming more concerned about how their food is produced. It found that a fair price for consumer and producer is what people consider to be fair, and that 78% of consumers recognised the importance of supporting farmers and local producers. • Consumers are bewildered by terms used on food packaging, a survey has found. The culprits include: lactose-free; low GI; free range; fair trade; sustainably-sourced; and farm assured. 76% of those who took part in the study said they’d like to see clearer explanations on product packaging, and 32% admitted to not buying products that used terms they didn’t understand.

Send your food news to:

[email protected]

Devon’s winemakers are expecting the harvest of the

decade this year. Yearlstone Vineyard is predicted to pick between 15-20 tonnes of grapes, Pebblebed around 30-40 tonnes, and Manstree 20 tonnes, as a result of the warm early summer; great news after last year’s poor pickings. The 2010 vintage will be available next spring.

food � nd

Devon’s winemakersexpecting the harvest of the

decade this year. Yearlstone Vineyard is predicted to pick between 15-20 tonnes of grapes, Pebblebed around 30-40 tonnes, and Manstree 20 tonnes, as a result of the warm early summer; great news after last year’s poor pickings. The 2010 vintage will be available next spring.

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The Arundell Arms Hotel & Restaurant, [email protected]

01566 784666 www.arundellarms.co.uk

Trusham, Teign Valley, Newton Abbot, Devon, TQ13 0NR Tel: 01626 853694 Email: reservations@vanillapod-cridfordinn.comwww.vanillapod-cridfordinn.com

RESTAURANT

@

The

CridfordInn

The Cridford Inn and Vanilla Pod Restaurantis nestled in the beautiful Teign Valley, in thevillage of Trusham, just minutes from the A38.

The Vanilla Pod Restaurant in a warm, stylish and friendly environment. The bar has an extensive menu, daily specialsand a good choice of beers and ales. Accommodation is also available.

CHRISTMAS DAY, CHRISTMAS PARTY & NEW YEARS EVE MENUSnow available at www.vanillapod-cridfordinn.com

T h e S e a h o r s eS e a f o o d R e S Ta u R a n T

01803 835147www.seahorserestaurant.co.uk

f ish so fresh tomorrow’s are still in the sea

photography by chris terry

01803 832800www.rockfishdevon.co.uk

a great menu for all the family includes fried & grilled fish, local crabmeat, jellied eels, prawn cocktails and plenty more

A warm RockFish welcome awaits you with the best fish in Blighty!

8 South Embankment, Dartmouth, TQ6 9BH

The best in local seafood cooked over a charcoal fire. Lunch menu | Daily specials | Great wine list

Our courtesy launch, Pearlfisher, is available to collect you across the river or from your boat, please advise when booking

5 South Embankment, Dartmouth, TQ6 9BH

SEAFOOD & CHIPS

Devon Nov10 S2.indd 10 13/10/2010 13:55:33

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LEARN CAKE DECORATINGMake your Christmas cake extra gorgeous this year with some new-found decorating skills. National Trust property Knightshayes Court is holding a Christmas cake decorating event on November 26. www.nationaltrust.org.uk

CELEBRATE SILVER DARLINGS THE CLOVELLY HERRING FESTIVAL TAKES PLACE ON NOVEMBER 21, FROM 10AM-4PM AT THE HARBOUR. GO TO SEE TRADITIONAL FISHING NETS BEING MADE AND KIPPERS AND BLOATERS BEING SMOKED, AND FOR HERRING SPECIALITIES, LOCAL CIDER AND SHANTY SINGING.www.clovelly.co.uk

6Things to do this November

VISIT THE MICHAELMAS FAIR Powderham Castle near Exeter is holding a Michaelmas Fair on November 4, from 10am–3pm. There’ll be a food and gift fair inside the castle with treats such as paté, turkish delight, organic meat and Christmas cakes and puddings, as well as clothes, china, books and garden gifts on offer. £3 entry. www.powderham.co.uk

GET THE KIDS

CREATING Arlington Court in North Devon

is holding a kids Christmas Cookery drop-in workshop on

November 14, from 11am-3pm. Kids can take home whatever

they make. £2 per child.

www.nationaltrust.org.uk

MAKE YOUR CRANBERRY SAUCE

STEAL A MARCH ON THE FESTIVE PREPARATIONS BY MAKING YOUR

CRANBERRY SAUCE NOW AND FREEZING IT, READY FOR DECEMBER.

ESCAPE TO THE COUNTRYGitcombe House Country Cottages and Leisure Spa near Totnes is holding its annual Celebration of Food and Wine on November 12-13. The weekend starts with an informal tasting at Sharpham Vineyard, and is followed on the Saturday by a five-course supper at Ashburton Cookery School, cooked by James Knight-Pacheco of BBC’s The Restaurant, and hosted by Susy Atkins. www.gitcombe.co.uk

Things to do this November

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Whatever it is you’rE after,there’s a Fiat 500 for everyone.

Yes, of course

What areyou after?

Fiat, the car brand with the lowest average CO2 emissions in Europe*. Fuel consumption fi gures for the Fiat 500 1.2 Pop mpg (l/100km) and CO2 emissions: Urban 49.6 (5.7), Extra Urban 65.7 (4.3), and Combined 58.9 (4.8). CO2 emissions 113 g/km. Terms & Conditions apply. Retail customers only. Not available in conjunction with any other offer. With Fiat i-Deal you have the option to return the vehicle and not pay the final payment, subject to the vehicle not having exceeded an agreed annual mileage (10,000 in this example) and being in good condition. Offer subject to status. A guarantee or indemnity may be required. Fiat Financial Services, PO Box 108, Leeds LS27 0WU. October to December offer. Prices correct at time of printing. Offer may be varied and withdrawn at any time. Subject to availability. *Source: JATO Dynamics. Based on volume-weighted average CO2 emissions (g/km) of the best selling brands in Europe, 1st half year 2010.

On the Road Price £9,465

Customer Deposit £500

Balance Financed £8,965

36 Monthly Payments £159

Optional Final Payment £3,877(inc option fee of £285)

Total Amount Payable £10,101

Excess Mileage Chargeover 10,000 p.a. 6p per mile

TYPICAL 3.2% APR

Fiat 500 1.2 Pop

R O U N D S W E L L F I ATL A U D E R L A N E , R O U N D S W E L L B U S I N E S S P A R K ,B A R N S TA P L E E X 3 1 3 TA T E L : 0 1 2 7 1 3 3 5 4 0 0

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This season... get creative with toffee apples Everyone loves a toffee apple on Bonfire Night. Make them more

interesting and grown-up, by replacing the lolly sticks with

strong twigs. We’ve also been experimenting with ornate forks,

which look rather fabulous. Granny’s fancy fish forks are perfect

for this - drag them out of the back of the cupboard

this November.

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Registered charity No. 205846.

Near Barnstaple, just off the A39. November to January, free entry to tea-room, shop and garden. Book your event on 01271 850296

www.nationaltrust.org.uk/arlington

Christmas at Arlington Court Wind in the Willows in Wintertime Saturdays and Sundays, 5 November to 19 December, 11am-3pm Enter the world of Ratty, Moley, Badger and Mr Toad on a special trail. Find secret hiding places, visit Toad Hall and Mr Toad's latest crazy collection: carriages! £1 per trail, plus winter admission, see website.

How to create a Christmas feast from the past Saturday 13 November, 11am-4pm See a demonstration of a traditional winter feast, eat and enjoy, then create an historic dessert yourself. Inspiration for your Christmas cooking. £20pp booking essential.

Victorian Christmas Fair Saturday 4 and Sunday 5 December 11am-3pm Old-fashioned festive fun, with special guests Mr Toad, Moley, Ratty and Badger and Father Christmas too. The house decorated for Christmas, brass band and more, craft tent and food court. Special 'Pay what you think it was worth' event.

OPEN 7 DAYS FOR LUNCH AND DINNER.FANTASTIC HOME-COOKED MENUPERFECT ALESWELL-STOCKED BARTEMPTING WINE LISTWOOD BURNERPOOL ROOMTRADITIONAL PUB GAMES.

01271 890 240www.kingsarmsgeorgeham.co.ukThe King’s ArmsChapel Street, Georgeham, North Devon EX33 1JJFind the Village Carpark opposite, entrance just across from Newbery Road Garage.

........and hospitality

Genuine hospitality.

Reeds Restaurant at SWALLOWS EAVES HOTEL

Swallows Eaves H�el, Swan Hill Road, Colyford

www.swallowseaves.co.uk Please call 01297 553184 to book a table

We are

taking

bookings

for private

Christmas

functions

now.

Devon Nov10 S2.indd 14 13/10/2010 13:55:54

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When head chef Darren Smith put sand eels on the menu, he thought the dish might make an occassional appearence as a “special of the day”. But Dukes’ clientele liked the miniscule fried fish so much that they’re now firmly at the top of the list of starters. The notation underneath the entry reads: ‘Better than whitebait’. Fighting talk ...

A pebble’s throw from the gently curving beach, Dukes nestles between two hotels also owned by the Seward family, who have been in Sidmouth for generations. To add to the history, the restaurant is housed in a Grade II listed building, part of which was once St Peter’s Chapel. But while antiquity lends character, the feeling is contemporary with a touch of chic and the religion is definitely food.

Naturally, fish features strongly on a menu that covers both traditional and modern cuisine. Fresh cod is offered either breaded or coated in the lightest of batters, accompanied by a purée of mushy peas with

just a hint of mint. The delectable char-grilled thresher shark, however, perches neatly on a Greek style salad, dressed with an aged balsamic vinaigrette; flavours which complement each other perfectly.

If fish doesn’t suit the mood, choose a steak or guinea fowl supreme, filled with apricot farce, served with roasted vegetables, fondant potato and a rich reduction sauce.

The wine list is sound and very reasonably priced, the service excellent, friendly and professional. Dukes should certainly not be missed but go there hungry; the portions are generous. RF

The Esplanade, Sidmouth, EX10 8AR.Tel. 01395 513320. www.hotels-sidmouth.co.uk/dukes-hotel-sidmouth.asp

Eating outWhere to go this season

Dukes

Sample menu

StartersChicken, apricot and

pistachio nut loaf wrapped in filo pastry

and served with red onion jam, £6

Crayfish cocktail with cocktail sauce and

granary bread, £6.50

MainsPan-roasted supreme of Cornish hake on niçoise

style salad with herb dressing, £14.95

Pan-fried pork loin steak with caramelised

apple, vegetable and puy lentil casserole, and rich cider sauce, £11.95

Baked pepper filled with Cornish Yarg, dates and

sunkissed tomatoes, served with roasted vegetables, fondant potato and tomato

coulis, £9.75

PudsChocolate truffle

served with stewed raspberries, £4.95

Crème brûlée, glazed and served with a

tuille biscuit £4.95

food

REVIEWS

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Sample menuStartersChargrilled bread with hummus, olives and pesto, £4.95

Twice-baked goats’ cheese soufflé with celery and pickled walnut salad, £6.95

MainsBeer battered local fish with handcut chips, pea purée and charred lemon, £10.95

Pan-roasted chicken breast with baby potato cake, mushroom ragout, herb oil and fresh spinach, £14.95

PudsDark chocolate tart with pistachio cream, £5.95

Steamed syrup sponge with cinnamon clotted cream, £5.95

Where else we’re eatingWe’re taking advantage of the “Two courses for £12” lunch deal at The Golden Lion in Sidmouth this November, as it finishes at the end of the month. Top of the hit list are the wild mushrooms picked by French chef-patron Franky, and game such as venison pie, braised pheasant, and woodcock. Winter puds are back in season, with sticky ginger pudding and lemon brioche. www.goldenliontipton.co.uk

Terra Madre at Broomhill Art Hotel near Barnstaple has embraced the slow food movement with gusto and is making fantastic sourdough bread in its woodfired oven, air-drying and curing its own salami and chorizo, and slow cooking honey mustard bacon for six hours. A smart, newly designed dining room (pictured) sets off the rustic, Med-inspired home cooking. www.broomhillart.co.uk

The Hoops Inn

Eating outWhere to go this season

Now, you know that here at food we strive to avoid clichés like the plague - but it’s hard to resist mentioning “phoenix” and “fire” when it comes to The Hoops Inn. Though its thatch was flambéed to a cinder 18 months ago, owners Gerry and Dee Goodwin got the inn back on its feet within two and a half months, and they’ve now instigated a complete regeneration of its food offerings. Everything here is being very properly done: stocks take three days of prep, and microwaves are cobweb-covered. ‘There’s no “ping and zing” here,’ says Gerry proudly.

Key to this has been the appointment of its dynamic new head chef, James Stephens, who has brought his experience of working in top-end restaurants in the South East. Good sourcing is central to all his dishes, as is pricing, and keeping his customers coming back: ‘Here, I can go out on the boat and see

the guys catching the fish, meet the farmer and see his cattle. You don’t have to mess around too much with good produce, and seasonal food costs less - which we can pass on to our diners.’

The new bar menu is made up of pub classics with “gastro” touches - caesar salad comes nicely arranged, with a poached duck egg and parmesan crisp - whilst the refined restaurant dishes let a top-quality ingredient shine alongside a few simple embellishments: think crispy rolled belly pork on top of creamy mash, with cider sauce and seasonal kale.

It seems that The Hoops is back on top form - and ready to soar. SFA

Horns Cross, near Bideford, EX39 5DL.Tel. 01237 451222. www.hoopsinn.co.uk

food

REVIEWS

Devon Nov10 S2.indd 16 13/10/2010 13:56:05

www.food-mag.co.uk | 17

FRESHLY MADE HAND-STRETCHED CIABATTA PIZZAS

HANDMADE PASTADELICIOUS LOCAL INGREDIENTS LUNCH-TIME SANDWICHES AND

SNACK-SIZE PIZZAS, PLUS MORE.

PIZZA PASTA GRILL30 CAEN STREET, BRAUNTON, NORTH DEVON. EX33 1AA

www.theriversidebraunton.co.uk | 01271 813 633

FAMILIES AND CHILDREN WELCOME, CHECK THE WEBSITE OR CALL US FOR DETAILS OF OUR PROGRAMME

OF COMMUNITY-CENTRED ACTIVITIES.

We are proud to donate 5% of our children’s menu price to local schools.

UNO NON PUO PENSARE BENE, AMARE BENE, DORMIRE BENE, SE

NON HA MANGIATO BENE.ONE CANNOT LOVE WELL, THINK WELL, SLEEP WELL,

IF ONE HASN’T EATEN WELL.VIRGINIA WOOLF

Christmas Lunch at the Fermoy’s Caféfrom 1st December to the 23rd December between 12-2pm (excluding Saturdays)main course £8.50 (smaller appetite £5.99)main course with pudding plus a regular tea or coffee £12.50 (smaller appetite £10.50)

Book a table in advance and we will decorate it for you, give you crackers to pull and treat you to full waitress service (available Monday to Friday only). When you book for 4 or more persons we’ll include a FREE box of chocolates! An extended lunch is available to 3pm If you book a party of 10 or more people.

We’re supporting the Make-A-Wish Foundation this Christmas

Book a table in advance and we will decorate it for you, give you crackers to pull and

for 4 or more persons we’ll include a FREE box of chocolates! An extended lunch is

exclusive

Christmas Shopping

EveningFriday 3rd December

6pm - 9pm

Tickets £5 per adult

phone for details

Fermoy's Garden Centre & Farm Shop on ThE A381 nEwTon AbboT To ToTnES RoAD

open 9am to 5.30pm except Sunday 10am to 4pm Cafe opens 9.30am on Sundays (01803) 813504

F i n e F o o dP r e p a r e d w i t h p a s s i o n a n d f l a i r

James serves modern European cuisine, lovingly prepared from the finest local produce.

Make Christmas special this year, see our website for our pre-Christmas par ty, Christmas Day lunch and New Year’s Eve dinner menus.

Tel : 01271 370123www.jamesduckett.co.uk

T h e S t r a n d , B a r n s t a p l e , E X 3 1 1 E U

Devon Nov10 S2.indd 17 13/10/2010 13:56:09

Devon Nov10 S3.indd 18 13/10/2010 13:59:08

Slow Slow Slow food food food

Slow cooking is back with a vengeance, with modern slow cookers turning raw ingredients into dinners you’ll love tucking into this winter. Recipes by Kathryn Hawkins.

1.Rinse and drain the beans. Put them in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Boil rapidly for 10 minutes. Drain well and put in the slow cooker dish.

2.Peel the onion and garlic, and chop finely. Wash and pat dry the lamb and cut into 2cm thick cubes. Remove the skin or casing from the sausage or chorizo and cut into small pieces. Chop the tomatoes and set aside.

3.Heat the oil in a frying pan until hot, and fry the onion, garlic, lamb, and sausage, stirring for 5 minutes, until browned all over. Stir into the beans, along with the chopped tomatoes, herbs, wine and hot stock. Season well. Cover with the lid, switch the cooker on to low and cook for about 7 hours until very tender.

4. Just before the end of the cooking time, pre-heat the grill to its hottest setting. Line the grill tray with foil and spread the breadcrumbs on the foil evenly. Grill for about 1 minute, turning halfway, until lightly toasted and crisp.

5. To serve, spoon the cassoulet on to warm serving plates and sprinkle with the crisp breadcrumbs and chopped parsley. Serve immediately.

LamBcaSSoULeTa hearty French classic ideally suited to the slow cooker, as it’s cooked for seven hours. Use cubed pork or small chicken joints or pieces if preferred.

Serves 4

Dried haricot beans 250g, soaked overnightOnion 1 largeGarlic 3 clovesLean lamb 500g Garlic sausage or chorizo 175g Ripe tomatoes 225gOlive oil 2 tbspFresh thyme and marjoram a few sprigsBay leaf 1Dry white wine 150mlChicken stock 600ml, hot Salt and freshly ground pepperFresh white breadcrumbs 6 tbsp Parsley  2 tbsp, freshly chopped

www.food-mag.co.uk | 19

Devon Nov10 S3.indd 19 13/10/2010 13:59:16

1.Put the slow cooker on high to preheat for 20 minutes while you prepare the chowder. (Check in your manufacturer’s instructions that this is ok.)

2.Peel and chop the onion. Melt the butter in a frying pan until bubbling and gently fry the onion with the curry paste for 5 minutes. Stir in the rice and cook for a further minute. Set aside.

3.Pour the hot stock into the slow cooker dish and mix in the rice and pan juices. Add the bay leaf. Cover with the lid and cook for 30 minutes. Add the fish fillets and frozen peas, re-cover and cook for a further 30 minutes until the rice is tender and the fish flakes easily. Discard the bay leaf.

4. To serve, stir in the cream, taste and season. Ladle into warm serving bowls and sprinkle with extra black pepper if you like. Garnish with fresh coriander and serve with crusty bread.

Smoked haddock and rice chowder

This has all the flavours of the classic breakfast dish kedgeree, and the mild curried flavour blends perfectly with smoked fish.

Serves 4

Onion 1 mediumButter  25g

Mild curry paste 1 tbspEasy-cook white rice 100g

Fish stock 900ml, hotBay leaf 1

Smoked haddock fillets 250g

Frozen peas 225g Single cream 4 tbsp

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Fresh coriander a few sprigs to garnish

Crusty bread to serve

20 | www.food-mag.co.uk

Devon Nov10 S3.indd 20 13/10/2010 13:59:22

www.food-mag.co.uk | 21

Cook’s NoteFOR A HEALTHIER

VERSION, OMIT THE CREAM

Devon Nov10 S3.indd 21 13/10/2010 13:59:42

22 | www.food-mag.co.uk

Cook’s Note

THIS RECIPE CALLS

FOR METHI, OR DRIED

FENUGREEK LEAVES. THE

FRAGRANCE IS TYPICALLY

OF CURRY POWDER.

IF UNAVAILABLE, USE

2 TSP OF MILD CURRY

POWDER INSTEAD

Devon Nov10 S3.indd 22 13/10/2010 14:00:17

1.Put the slow cooker on high to preheat for 20 minutes (check in your manufacturer’s instructions that this is ok) while you prepare the rice by putting it in a sieve and rinsing under cold running water. Drain well and set aside.

2.Peel and finely chop the onion. Deseed and finely chop the chilli. Put the mustard, cumin, and coriander seeds in a frying pan and dry-fry for 2 to 3 minutes to toast until slightly golden. Remove from the heat and grind using a pestle and mortar. Add the cardamom pods and crush lightly to split the casings.

3.Melt the better in a frying pan until bubbling hot, and stir-fry the onions and chilli with the spices for 5 minutes until lightly golden. Remove from the heat and stir in the methi and salt.

4.Put the rice in the slow cooker dish and stir in the spiced onion mixture. Pour over 600ml (1 pt) of hot water, cover with the lid and cook for 45 minutes. Stir in the frozen peas, re-cover and cook for a further 30 minutes until tender. Meanwhile, put the cashew nuts in a frying pan and toast as above for 3-4 minutes until lightly golden. Set aside.

5. To serve, fork the mixture through, adding the chopped coriander until well mixed. Discard the cardamom pods and spoon on to warm serving plates. Sprinkle with the cashew nuts and serve with a tomato, red onion, and cucumber salad.

LIGhTLY SPIced indian-STYLe PiLaFThere’s a bit of preparation involved with this dish, but once it’s in the slow cooker all you have to do is sit back and wait.

Serves 4

Easy-cook basmati rice 300g Onion 1, largeMild green chilli 1Mustard seeds, cumin seeds and coriander seeds 2 tsp of eachCardamom pods 6Butter 50gMethi (dried fenugreek leaves) 3 tbsp(see cook’s note)

Salt 1 tspFrozen peas 200gUnsalted cashew nuts 100gCoriander 4 tbsp, freshly chopped Tomato, red onion and cucumber salad to serve

Winter warmers are what’s called for when it comes to these slow cooked dishes, says Susy Atkins.

There are earthy, hearty flavours running through this issue’s recipes, each dish calling out for a fairly big, full-flavoured wine, red or white, but one with a rounded texture. Winter warmers, in other words. The lamb cassoulet is the most wine-friendly of all the dishes. Partner it with a peppery Rhone red, a well-balanced Tuscan wine like fine chianti classico, or, back in southern France, a subtly spicy corbieres or fitou. The savoury, mellow flavours of traditional European reds work much better than the fruit-driven, more jammy New World styles in this instance.

Cheers!

LesDouze2008,MontTauch,fitou,France(Majestic,£7.99)A lovely blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre that has produced a spicy, peppery red with plenty of cassis and plum fruit, but a mellow, smooth finish. Delectable with lamb casseroles, especially the cassoulet.

The “douze”, by the way, refers to the 12 growers who put their grapes into the mix!

Read more from Susy in The Sunday Telegraph and

Delicious magazine. 

Put the slow cooker on high to preheat for 20 minutes (check in your manufacturer’s instructions that this is ok) while you prepare the rice by putting it in a sieve and rinsing under cold running water. Drain well and set aside.

Peel and finely chop the onion. Deseed and finely chop the chilli. Put the mustard, cumin, and coriander seeds in a frying pan and dry-fry for 2 to 3 minutes to toast until slightly golden. Remove from the heat and grind using a pestle and mortar. Add the cardamom pods and crush lightly

Melt the better in a frying pan until bubbling hot, and stir-fry the onions and chilli with the spices for 5 minutes until lightly golden. Remove from the heat and stir in the

Put the rice in the slow cooker dish and stir in the spiced onion mixture. Pour over 600ml (1 pt) of hot water, cover with the lid and cook for 45 minutes. Stir in the frozen peas,

to serve Cheers!

LesDouze2008,MontTauch,fitou,France(Majestic,£7.99)A lovely blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre that has produced a spicy, peppery red with plenty of cassis and plum fruit, but a mellow, smooth finish. Delectable with lamb casseroles, especially the cassoulet.

The “douze”, by the way, refers to the 12 growers who put

SusyRECOMMENDS

Susy Atkins’

Drinking partners

www.food-mag.co.uk | 23

Devon Nov10 S3.indd 23 13/10/2010 14:00:30

1.Peel the potatoes and cut into ½cm cubes. Peel and finely chop the onion. De-seed and slice the peppers and chillies.

2.Melt the butter with the oil in a large frying pan until hot and bubbling and stir-fry all the prepared vegetables for 5 minutes. Transfer the vegetables to the slow cooker dish.

3.Quarter the tomatoes and mix into the vegetables, along with the kidney beans, cumin, paprika and plenty of seasoning. Cover with the lid, switch the cooker on to low and leave to cook overnight or for up to 9 hours.

4. To serve, stir the hash well. Pile on to warm serving plates, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve immediately.

BeaNYVeGeTaBLe haShGet your taste buds up and running in the morning with this zingy concoction of vegetables and spices.

Serves 4Potatoes 450g

general-purposeOnion 1

Green pepper 1Red pepper 1

Red or green chillies 2Butter 25g

Vegetable oil 2 tbspRipe tomatoes 350g

Pinto or kidney beans 400g can, drained and rinsed

Ground cumin 1 tspPaprika 1 tsp

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook’s NoteIF YOU LIKE EGGS FOR BREAKFAST, SERVE THIS DISH TOPPED WITH A FRIED OR POACHED EGG

24 | www.food-mag.co.uk

Devon Nov10 S3.indd 24 13/10/2010 14:00:48

HowslowcookersworkSlow cookers have a thermostatically controlled electric heating element which maintains a relatively low temperature for many hours, allowing the cook to leave the cooker unattended.

Whichmodel?You can buy slow cookers in different styles and sizes to suit your needs and budget. Generally the sizes range from the 2 litre models which are ideal for two people, 4 litre models for four people and 6 litre cookers for six. You’ll find slow cookers in oval or round shapes – the former is best for pot roasts and the latter for casseroles and similar dishes. There is also a range of complexity from a technical point of view, with basic models having low, medium, high, and keep-warm settings, whilst the more advanced digital versions have pre-programming options and can perform multiple operations such as ‘two hours on high, followed by two hours on low’.

Reader offer If you’ve got the slow

cooking obsession

and would like more

fabulous recipes,

tips and technical

information,

Real Slow Cooking by

Kathryn Hawkins is a

must-read. food readers

can buy it at the special

price of £7.99, which

is 20% off the RRP of

£9.99, and includes free

post and packing. To

order it, go to the New

Holland Publishers

website: www.

newhollandpublishers.

com and put in the

promotional code

“Slow Cooking” at the

checkout. Offer closes

on December 1, 2010.

5 minute guide toslow cooking5 minute guide toslow cooking5 minute guide toslow cooking5 minute guide to

Slow cookers first became popular in the US in the 1970s, and the trend was soon picked up over here, along with the fashion for pressure cooking. Modern slow cookers work in the same way as the original ceramic models, but have more changeable temperature controls which has led to a greater range of recipes.

disadvantagesofslowcooking

1.A slow cooker can’t brown foods, so in some dishes, meats are best quickly browned off before being put into the slow cooker, to make them look and taste more appetising. Crock-Pot sells a sauté slow cooker (pictured) which has a pot that can be put onto the hob to do the browning first.

2.Large pieces of meat are best cooked on high for an hour or two before the other ingredients are added, as the cooker will take too long to cook the meat thoroughly otherwise.

LONG LIVE THE

SLOW COOKER!

Benefi tstothehomecook

1.It’s great putting raw ingredients into the slow cooker in the morning and coming home to a ready cooked, hot dinner at the end of the day.

2.You can use cheap cuts of meat which need longer cooking to become tender.

3.Slow cookers use less energy than many conventional forms of cooking.

4.You won’t end up with a steam-filled kitchen, and there’s less washing up to do.

www.food-mag.co.uk | 25

Devon Nov10 S3.indd 25 13/10/2010 14:01:07

From Richard Valder

of @Angela’s in Exeter who

says, ‘This is one of our

most popular dishes - it has all the classic elements that

go well with pork.’ Honeyroastedtenderloinof

localporkwithapple,sageandcalvadoscream

1.Pre-heat the oven to 230°c/gm8. Using a melon baller, round out marbles of the apples and place into a bowl. You will need six apple marbles per portion. Then add the calvados and cider.

2.Clean the sage and chop finely and add to the bowl with the apples. The apples need to be allowed to soak for three hours to allow the flavours to seep together.

3.Heat a shallow pan with olive oil and coat the pork tenderloin in honey, then place in the pan and seal the meat until it’s golden.

4.When sealed, add the apple marbles with a little of the calvados, sage and cider marinade. Then roast them all together in

the oven for 10 minutes. You’ll know the meat is cooked when it’s firm to the touch and the juices run clear.

5.Remove the meat from the pan and allow it to rest. With the apple mix left in the pan, add the remaining calvados, cider and sage. Then add the cream, and reduce again. Then taste and adjust the seasoning.

6. Slice the pork tenderloin and serve with the sauce, placing the apples around the plate.

@Angelas 38 New Bridge Street, Exeter, EX4 3AH. Tel. 01392 499038.  www.angelasrestaurant.co.uk

Cook like a pro-chefRecipes from Devon’s top kitchens

Serves 4

Pork tenderloins 2, cut trimmed and cut into 200g

whole piecesExtra virgin olive oil 50ml

Local honey 100ml Cider 100ml

Braeburn apples 4Fresh sage 50gCalvados 50ml

Whipping cream 200ml

A perfect supper party

dish for winter

26 | www.food-mag.co.uk

Devon Nov10 S3.indd 26 13/10/2010 14:01:11

From Adam Little of Harry’s Restaurant and Grill Bar in Exeter who says, ‘Mussels are at their peak now, and you don’t get any more local than these, straight from the River Exe.’

RiverExemusselscookedincider

1. Scrub the mussels thoroughly and remove the beards. Discard any with open shells that do not open when sharply tapped.

2.Melt the butter in a pan that’s large enough to hold the mussels. Add the chopped shallot and garlic and cook gently for 3-4 minutes to soften.

3. Turn the heat up high and add the mussels. Then quickly pour the cider over the mussels and cover with a tight fitted lid. Cook for 4-5 minutes, shaking the pan frequently and giving them a occasional stir.

4. Drain the mussels in a colander over a bowl to catch all the liquor. Return the liquor to the stove in a pan and reduce it by half. Then add the cream, bring to the boil and season with salt and pepper.

5.Divide the mussels into bowls, discarding any that didn’t open. Add the chopped parsley to the sauce and pour over the mussels.

Harry’s Restaurant and Grill Bar 86 Longbrook Street, Exeter, EX4 6AP. Tel. 01392 202234.  www.harrys-exeter.co.uk

Serves 4

River Exe mussels 2kgButter 1 tbsp

Banana shallot 1, finely chopped

Garlic cloves 2, crushedCider 400ml

Double cream 100mlChopped parsley 2 tbsp

Salt and pepper

www.food-mag.co.uk | 27

Devon Nov10 S3.indd 27 13/10/2010 14:01:12

28 | www.food-mag.co.uk

Registered charity No. 205846.

01579 352717

The Edgcumbe, Cotehele Quay, near Saltash, PL12 6TA Fresh, locally sourced, seasonal food served in a unique setting overlooking the River Tamar. All the quality you expect from the National Trust - but in the evening! Evening opening Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights from 7pm. Booking essential on

evening time

Christopher Piper Wines

CPW1 SILVER STREET, OTTERY ST MARY, DEVON. EX11 1DB

Please visit our shop or website

Tel: 01404 814139Email: [email protected]

www.christopherpiperwines.co.uk

CPW

Over 2000 di�erent �ne and quality wines from all over the world

Established over 30 years

Shippers and Merchants to the Trade and Private Customers

“An independent wine merchant for the independently minded”

@Angela’s Restaurant,

38 New Bridge Street

Exeter, EX4 3AH

01392 499038 www.angelasrestaurant.co.uk

Michelin Guide 2010

Recommended in

‘… the village re aurant in the heart of Exeter’

… for people who are passionate about food

Husband and wife team, Richard and Angela, have created a warm and soothing environment ideal for enjoying with friends or spoiling that someone special. Serving simply exquisite food made from the freshest, highest quality, local produce, they understand the properties of the fish or meat they are working with and the aromas that will best enhance the individual dishes. Though only in their third year, it is these qualities that have won @Angela’s several accolades including a recommendation in the Michelin Guide for the second year running.

Restaurant&WineBar

1 Market Street, Barnstaple, Devon, EX31 1BX01271 378844 www.zenasrestaurant.com

With it’s understated elegance, Mediterranean courtyard and superb cuisine, you’ll be so glad you discovered Zena’s

Open for breakfast, hot and cold drinks and light lunches Tuesday to Saturday Open Thursday to Saturday evenings (last orders 9pm) Inspirational cuisine using the finest, freshest ingredients Perfect for pre-theatre dinner (from 5pm onwards)

Proud to serve Britain for over 165 yearsWelcomes into the family

New Co-operative stores unveiled across

The South West

8294 Coop Food Mag Advert_168x245mm.indd 3 6/7/10 13:36:44Devon Nov10 S3.indd 28 13/10/2010 14:01:15

www.food-mag.co.uk | 29

Proud to serve Britain for over 165 yearsWelcomes into the family

New Co-operative stores unveiled across

The South West

8294 Coop Food Mag Advert_168x245mm.indd 3 6/7/10 13:36:44Devon Nov10 S3.indd 29 13/10/2010 14:01:19

30 | www.food-mag.co.uk

Sweet centrepiece The festive lunch deserves a pud to be proud of, so make 2010 the year you make your own. After all, it’s the

blazing star of the show.

Devon Nov10 S4.indd 30 13/10/2010 14:35:27

www.food-mag.co.uk | 31

This makes enough for a 1.2 litre

Mason Cash bowl (No.30), or a 2 pint basin.

Raisins 300gCurrants 300gSultanas 300g

White breadcrumbs 150gPlain flour 150g

Dark brown sugar 150gMixed peel 40g

Baking powder ½ tspEggs 2

Chopped suet 300gSalt ½ tsp

Lemon juice of ½Nutmeg grated

Ground ginger ¼ tspSherry 25gBrandy 25g

Milk

Gidleigh Park’s Gourmet Christmas pudding Even if you're not having Christmas lunch at Devon’s top

restaurant Gidleigh Park, you can still add a little wow factor

by making the Gidleigh pud. The recipe has been kindly shared

with us by two-Michelin-starred, executive head chef of Gidleigh,

Michael Caines MBE, who says: ‘Make your pudding as soon as

you can, to allow the alcohol to work its magic!’

1. In a large bowl combine all of the dry ingredients together, then mix in the eggs, lemon juice, sherry and brandy, adding milk to obtain the correct consistency - when you hit the spoon on the side of the bowl it should come off easily.

2. Pour the mixture into the pudding basin.

3. Cover each basin with a circle of grease-proof paper and cover with a tea cloth on top. Tie some string around the rim of the bowl to hold the cloth in place and bring the corners up to create “rabbit ears”. Alternatively you could make a string handle (see picture) to help you lift the basin out of the hot steaming saucepan.

4. Steam for 7-8 hours by placing the pudding bowl on a trivet in a tray of water and covering to create a steam bath.

5. Leave the pudding to cool, then refresh the papers and store somewhere cool and dark until Christmas Day.

6. Re-heat when needed by steaming for a further 2 hours.

7. Serve with cognac sauce and clotted cream.

Michael Caines MBE, who says: ‘Make your pudding as soon as

you can, to allow the alcohol to work its magic!’

Cost conscious

cooking

Making your own

Christmas pud could

save you money this

year, with the cost

of puddings likely

to rise as a result of

poor fruit harvests

in Turkey and the

Middle East. If you

are making your

own, buying fruit in

bulk and splitting

with friends could

make sense.

to obtain the correct consistency - when you hit the spoon on the side of the bowl it

Pour the mixture into the pudding basin.

Cover each basin with a circle of grease-proof paper and cover with a tea cloth on top. Tie some string around the rim of the bowl to hold the cloth in place and bring

Alternatively you could make a string handle (see picture) to help you lift the basin out of

Steam for 7-8 hours by placing the

5. 5. Leave the pudding to cool, then refresh the papers and store somewhere cool and

are making your

own, buying fruit in

bulk and splitting

with friends could

make sense.

DON’TFORGET

STIR UP SUNDAY

ON NOVEMBER

21

Devon Nov10 S4.indd 31 13/10/2010 14:35:55

32 | www.food-mag.co.uk

Beefy beginningsBeef and mutton were main ingredients in frumenty, the 14th century porridge containing dried fruit, wine and spices that evolved into the pudding we eat today. This forerunner was eaten as a fasting meal in preparation for the Christmas festivities, but by 1595 the Elizabethans had come to their culinary senses. They ditched the meat, thickened the pudding with eggs and breadcrumbs, added beer or spirits, and renamed it plum pudding. By 1650 it had become the customary Christmas dessert, but soon after the Puritans banned it for being indulgent and pagan in origin. King George I re-established it as part of the Christmas meal, having tasted and enjoyed it. By Victorian times Christmas puddings had become pretty similar to the dark, rich mix of dried fruit, nuts, alcohol, eggs, suet or butter, flour and sometimes breadcrumbs that’s eaten today, with Eliza Acton publishing a recipe in 1845, followed by Mrs Beeton.

Custom-madeWith such a long history it’s no surprise that so many traditions surround the Christmas pudding, with most being Christian in origin. One superstition says that the pudding should be made with 13 ingredients to represent Jesus and the disciples, whilst another suggests that every member of the family should take turns to stir the pudding with a wooden spoon from east to west, in honour of the wise men. The holly on top represents the crown of thorns and the whole brandy-soaked dish is set alight as a symbol of Jesus’ passion.

A rich history

DON’TFORGET

STIR UP SUNDAY

ON NOVEMBER

21

STIR UP SUNDAY NOVEMBER

Stir up SundayThe Sunday before Advent

is known as "Stir-up Sunday" because of words from the Book of Common

Prayer, and it’s traditionally the day to make your

Christmas pudding. At this time you’re also meant to put a few silver coins into

the mix to bring wealth in the coming year. It’s no wonder the Victorians had

bad teeth.

‘By 1595 the Elizabethans had

come to their culinary senses.’

Devon Nov10 S4.indd 32 13/10/2010 14:36:14

www.food-mag.co.uk | 33

DON’T HAVE TIMETO MAKE YOUR OWN?If you haven’t got the hours spare for all that steaming, then a great alternative is to source a locally made pud, created with quality ingredients and in small batches.

Caribbean ChristmasThe Christmas pud from Feeding Your Imagination is a fruity pudding with a twist, and is beautifully light

in texture, and full of moist fruit, gentle spices and booze. It was inspired by Devon chef Paul Da-Costa-Greave’s Jamaican Aunt Marva

who, whilst sipping the

rum, let him pinch her recipe, and was voted number one pud by The Daily Telegraph. It's also gluten free and suitable for vegetarians. Buy from Devon delis or the website for £9.99. Tel. 0845 6026862. www.chrimbopud.co.uk

twist, and is beautifully light in texture, and full of moist fruit, gentle spices and booze. It was inspired by Devon chef Paul Da-Costa-Greave’s Jamaican Aunt Marva

who, whilst sipping the

rum, let him pinch her recipe, and was voted number one pud by The

Oh, bring us a figgy puddingAward-winning artisan producer Figgy’s Puddings produces premium, traditional, handmade Christmas puddings made with locally sourced O’Hanlon’s Port Stout and ten-year-old Somerset Cider Brandy. The award-winning puddings are matured for several months in Mason Cash ceramic bowls and wrapped in the classic "rabbit-ears" pudding cloths, and need to be gently steamed on the hob or in a steamer on Christmas Day. Available to order online, the puddings come in three different sizes: 400g (£10), 600g (£14) and 1kg (£19). Order by phone or from the website.Tel. 01392 459488. www.figgys.co.uk

?

Caribbean Christmas

Devon Nov10 S4.indd 33 13/10/2010 14:36:32

This Christmas give your leftovers a makeoverThis Christmas don’t let your leftovers go to waste, turn them into something really tasty with the help of our FREE cookbook. Less food waste to landfill, more cash in your pocket.

To get some inspiration visit www.recycledevon.org

Devon Nov10 S4.indd 34 13/10/2010 14:36:33

www.food-mag.co.uk | 35

GET MORE INFO AND RECIPESFor other useful recipes visit: www.recycledevon.org/lovefood

Or for more information on the Don’t let Devon go to waste campaign: Tel. 0845 4502477. Email: [email protected] www.recycledevon.org

The ultimate re-use recipeDevon celeb chef Paul Da-Costa-Greaves has whipped up an easy Christmas

pudding ice cream recipe for Love Christmas hate waste, which turns leftover pud into a fruity ice cream which would be perfect on New Year’s Eve.

Left-over Christmas puddingLeft-over custard

1. Put the Christmas pudding into a suitable bowl and microwave until warm.

2. Add the custard - you’ll need a good half-pint.

3. Mix well and transfer to a plastic container suitable for freezing and place in the freezer for a couple of hours until frozen.

4. Remove and enjoy!

Masterchef Paul Da Costa Greaves has joined forces with Don’t let Devon go to waste to offer some top tips and recipes to make Christmas food go further.

Paul has pulled together a selection of his favourite Christmas ‘recipes with a twist’ for the Love Christmas, Hate Waste campaign. All contain easy waste saving ideas to help combat the estimated 230,000 tonnes of festive food thrown away each year.

From cutting down on peelings by leaving the jackets on roast spuds to recycling extra mincemeat and those satsumas into a Boxing Day bread and butter pudding, Paul, who co-owns The Galley in Topsham, is keen to help Devon families get the most from their cupboards and their wallets.

Paul said: “I’m pleased to join together with Don’t let Devon go to waste in the Love Christmas, Hate Waste campaign to give people ideas on how to reduce food waste with an alternative twist. For example we show you how to make a crunchy topped sprouts dish using leftovers from the Christmas nut selection – so tasty the kids will be asking for more.”

Other recipes include an easy way to create your own gravy and make the most of your turkey leftovers with yummy curries and simple soups.

Paul describes one of his Christmas recipes: “It happens every year, you’ve made such a wonderful job with the main meal that the family can only manage a mouthful of pudding. Don’t bin it – download my online recipe to show you how to make Christmas pudding ice cream. All you need is your left-over pud, some custard and your freezer!”

Save the sprouts and love your leftovers!

Visit www.recycledevon.org and you will be able to sign up to Love Christmas, Hate Waste and get future advice on reducing food waste at Easter, barbecues and summer parties as well as a free book called ‘Eat Well, Waste Less’ by Devon based author Bish Muir. Bish shows that anyone can achieve great results with leftovers by keeping a stock of simple ingredients in the cupboard. The book also contains advice on sell by and use by dates, an a-z of leftover ingredients and how to use them, and quick and easy recipes.

Crunchy topped sprouts (Serves 8)Brussels sprouts sprinkled with a crunchy topping and a hint of lemon, this is a great way to use up some of those Christmas nuts you’ve bought.

Cooking time 30 mins. Preparation time 30 mins.

Ingredients

Brussels sprouts 1.4kg

Salt and ground black pepper

Butter 50g

Chopped nuts 120g, can be mixed, or crack open some of those walnuts (can be put into liquidiser for 10 seconds depending on how crunchy you like it).

Brioche or bread crusts 75g, finely chopped or popped into liquidiser

Lemon 1, grated

Mixed dry herbs 1 pinch

Method

Trim and wash sprouts and if big cut in half, cook in boiling salted water with half the butter for approx 10 minutes or until tender.

Meanwhile melt the rest of butter in heavy based frying pan, fry the nuts & crumbs gently until golden. Remove from heat and stir in lemon rind and pinch of chopped herb.

Drain the sprouts into an oven proof dish, sprinkle over the crumble and grill for few minutes until golden.

Alternatively soften butter in microwave, pop in nuts, crumbs, rind and chopped herbs, mix together and sprinkle on top of the sprouts and grill for a few minutes until golden.

Accepted versions of the logo

Don’t let Devon go to waste

Don’t let Devon go to waste

Don’t let Devon go to waste

Don’t let Devon go to waste

Colour

Reversed

Mono

The leading can be altered

for best fit. Never justify or

range left or right.

Clever Christmas cooksMake that kitchen full of food go further this Christmas, and save money by re-using festive food in clever ways.

Advertorial feature

12tips of ChristmasLet’s face it, we all buy more food than we end up needing at Christmas - but the left-overs don’t have to go to waste. Stick these twelve top tips to your fridge for on-hand ideas on how to re-use extra food in delicious ways.

Christmas cooks

turns leftover pud into a fruity ice cream which would be perfect on

This Christmas give your leftovers a makeoverThis Christmas don’t let your leftovers go to waste, turn them into something really tasty with the help of our FREE cookbook. Less food waste to landfill, more cash in your pocket.

To get some inspiration visit www.recycledevon.org

Heat small amounts of left-over mincemeat in a pan and spoon over ice cream for an alternative Christmas pudding. Stilton can be frozen ready to make cheese sauce to go with seasonal winter veg in January. Freeze left-over gravy to use as a flavourful base for soup at another time. Freeze left-over bread sauce - as long it hasn't been frozen before. It’s great with roasted game birds. Chestnuts are highly perishable. To keep them fresh, put in a plastic bag in the fridge salad box. You can also freeze any that won't be eaten over Christmas. Pile left-over smoked salmon on toasted bagels, spread with cream cheese and sprinkle with lemon juice and black pepper, or mix into scrambled eggs for a Boxing Day breakfast. Delicate puddings can be frozen on a large plastic box lid, with the bottom of the box over the top.

Shops closed and you only have a day old loaf? Hold it very briefly under a running cold tap. Give it a good shake and pop in a hot oven for about ten minutes; it will be as soft and crusty as freshly baked bread. Whip left-over cream before freezing to stop it becoming grainy when thawed.

If you're making your own mince pies, freeze them uncooked so they're on standby - just bake a few at a time when visitors call.

Slice left-over jacket potatoes into wedges and scatter with left-over cheese and strips of bacon, salami or ham. Try a drizzle of pesto or chilli sauce, bake until crispy and serve with salad and pickles. Turn left-over turkey into that great Boxing Day favourite, curry.

Devon Nov10 S4.indd 35 13/10/2010 14:36:45

36 | www.food-mag.co.uk

We've been sourcing some fab gifts and asking local foodies what they’d like in

their stocking this year ...

ALL I

Buy a home baker this gorgeous set of tins, from Mr Oliver’s Jamie At Home

parties - call 0844 871 2010 for details of parties near

you, or to sign up to throw one yourself.£15 for three.

DEAR FATHER CHRISTMAS,Please could you send me a new coffee maker for Christmas? I’d like one of those Nespresso things where I just pop in a little capsule, and Bob's your uncle - the perfect espresso!I really deserve this because it’s always me who has the ‘Coffee now Dear’ job, and I just hate all that time and effort that I could spend doing other things!Yours,Joe Buzzo, Waterside Bistro in Totnes

DEAR FATHER CHRISTMAS,

I hope you’re well. I’ve been working really

hard all year, so I’d love the chance to sit

down with my friends and family and enjoy

everyone’s company.

I’d really appreciate it if this Christmas

you could send a delicious family meal,

prepared, cooked and served for my

friends and family. Ideally, this would be

a homemade winter soup, South Devon

roast beef with all the trimmings, and

to finish the evening off, a wonderful

apple, pear and mixed spice crumble with

homemade Cornish clotted cream ice cream.

Lots of love (and homemade mince pies

for you!),

Jenny Aston, Browns Vibe at Browns Hotel

in Tavistock

I’d really appreciate it if this Christmas

you could send a delicious family meal,

homemade Cornish clotted cream ice cream.

Lots of love (and homemade mince pies

CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE

Devon Nov10 S4.indd 36 13/10/2010 14:36:55

www.food-mag.co.uk | 37

For the mollusc monster in For the mollusc monster in your life - stylish silver-plated

mussel eaters. £29.99 a pair from Orange Tree at Darts Farm near Exeter. www.dartsfarm.co.uk

DEAR FATHER CHRISTMAS,

I’d like a box of cheese please! A mix of Devon faves including Quicke’s cheddar, a Vulscome goats’ cheese, Devon Oke, plus a good oozy brie and some Cropwell Bishop

stilton. Oh, and spicy chutneys from Waterhouse Fayre, if that’s not too greedy.

Many thanks,Jo Rees, editor of food

Fill someone’s heart - and stomach - with festive cheer by giving them a beautifully-wrapped hamper from MC Boutique in Catherdral Yard in Exeter, stuffed full of goodies of your choosing. From £8, with free delivery

within Exeter city centre (delivery can be arranged elsewhere too).www.michaelcaines.com/boutique

These vibrant Elevate kitchen utensils are cleverly designed so the business end doesn’t touch the work surface. Available at good cookware shops and from the Joseph Joseph website.www.josephjoseph.com

Devon Nov10 S4.indd 37 13/10/2010 14:37:18

38 | www.food-mag.co.uk

Laura Santtini has gathered the ingredients from an entire Italian Christmas hamper and squeezed them into one delicious tube. Taste #5 Umami Paste uses the � nest umami-rich Italian ingredients such as parmesan cheese, anchovies, porcini mushrooms and balsamic vinegar. £2.99 from

www.ocado.comwww.laurasanttini.com

DEAR FATHER

CHRISTMAS,I’d love a meal cooked for me - but

please, no turkey. I want a sea bass, big

and wild, simply cooked and served with just

boiled potatoes, a huge green salad and a

chilled bottle of Sharpham Vineyard’s

Madeline Angevine.

I also need a week off to catch it from

a “never been fished before” location.

Somewhere up your way would be fine - just

me, the rod, and a constant supply of corned

beef sandwiches and local Tamar bitter

from Summerskills.

Yours,

Chris Whitehead, executive chef of

Turtley Corn Mill, Bridge at Mountbatten,

Surf n Turf in Plymouth, and

Finnygook in Portwrinkle.

Christmas in a box - these are made from cinnamon bark which embues

the contents with a cinnamon fragrance over time, making them perfect for storing sugar for use in coffee, baking or desserts. £10 each, from www.alsohome.com

CHRISTMAS

GIFT GUIDE

Devon Nov10 S4.indd 38 13/10/2010 14:37:36

www.food-mag.co.uk | 39

These cute � gures on chocolate praline hearts make great little

pressies or place-setting decorations. From £2.35, buy

from Fermoys near Newton Abbot.

www.fermoys.co.uk

Fab,chunky mugs from Le Creuset, £9.50 each. www.lecreuset.co.uk

DEAR FATHER

CHRISTMASI’d like a Christmas party please - a swanky one, with beautiful canapés and a top local mixologist with a mobile bar to create some classic cocktails and festive faves. Thank you!

Stef Fox Adcock, features editor at food

DEAR FATHER CHRISTMAS,I’ve been serving tapas all year to our customers, but what I’d really like is a ticket (or two - I ought to keep Wanda happy) to visit friends in Majorca to eat fresh local Spanish seafood dishes.Chris Smith, chef proprietor of Lilico’s, Barnstaple.

DEAR FATHER CHRISTMAS,

This year, I have some simple but important requests. Please can I

have the following:Truffle arome that’s not too soft.An avocado that’s not too hard.

And a boneless quail from South Devon.

Oh yes, and a sense of humour too!

Cheers,Viv Marshall, head chef at

Kitley House near Yealmpton.

Devon Nov10 S4.indd 39 13/10/2010 14:37:52

40 | www.food-mag.co.uk

NEED MORE GASTRO GIFT IDEAS? Vouchers are a great idea for the foodie in your life.

Ashburton Cookery SchoolAny foodie would be overjoyed to get vouchers for Ashburton

Cookery School - it’s one of the best in the UK, with expert tutors, new high-tech teaching

and cooking facilities, and more than 40 hands-on courses to

choose from. Vouchers are available from £25, and the

cookery school will send a gift pack to you or deliver it direct

to the recipient. You could also send an e-card gift voucher via

email from the website for last-minute pressies.Tel. 0843 2895555.

www.ashburtoncookeryschool.co.uk

The Arundell ArmsKeen fishers, diners, or weekenders would love vouchers to spend at The Arundell Arms in Lifton, which is known as one of the best fishing and hunting hotels in the country. Vouchers can be redeemed against meals in the two AA rosette restaurant, fishing and tuition, or accommodation, and are available in £20, £50 or £100 denominations.Tel. 01566 784666. www.arundellarms.com

Christopher Piper WinesGive someone the excuse to treat themselves to a really good bottle of wine, chosen by them, with a voucher to spend with Devon wine merchant Christopher Piper Wines. Vouchers are available in £10, £25, and £50 denominations, and can be bought and spent on a wide range of wines either online or at the shop in Ottery St Mary. Tel. 01404 814139. www.christopherpiperwines.co.uk

Christopher Piper Wines, 1 Silver Street, Ottery St Mary, Devon, EX11 1DB (01404) 814139

£25This voucher entitles you to £25 worth of Christopher Piper Wines products

Gift Voucher

www.christopherpiperwines.co.uk

Signed

Please enter the code shown below in to thecheckout when making a purchase

Voucher code

Abode ExeterGot to buy for someone fussy (haven’t we all ...)? Vouchers for Abode in Exeter are hugely popular because they can be spent on stays in any Abode hotel, on meals in any Michael Caines restaurant, café or pub, and on goodies in the MC Boutique, and because they can be bought in any denomination from £10 upwards. Buy from the Boutique or main reception desk at Abode in Exeter.www.michaelcaines.com

CHRISTMAS

GIFT GUIDE6

Devon Nov10 S4.indd 40 13/10/2010 14:38:00

www.food-mag.co.uk | 41

Craft Fair - Saturday 20 and Sunday 21 November 11am-4pm: Local hand-made gifts for Christmas. Home-made cakes, scones, chutney and preserves all freshly made in our kitchen. Free entry and free parking Christmas Food Fair - Saturday 4 December 11am - 4pm: A fabulous opportunity to buy local seasonal produce from an array of local suppliers. Why not stock up with quality produce for your Christmas celebrations? Free entry and free parking Bolham, Tiverton, EX16 7RQ 01884 259416 www.nationaltrust.org.uk/knightshayes

Knightshayes Court Craft Fair - Saturday 20 and Sunday 21 November 11am-4pm: Local hand-made gifts for Christmas. Home-made cakes, scones, chutney and preserves all freshly made in our kitchen. Free entry and free parking Christmas Food Fair - Saturday 4 December 11am - 4pm: A fabulous opportunity to buy local seasonal produce from an array of local suppliers. Why not stock up with quality produce for your Christmas celebrations? Free entry and free parking Bolham, Tiverton, EX16 7RQ 01884 259416 www.nationaltrust.org.uk/knightshayes

Registered charity number 205846.

The award winning HartnollHotel has two stylish

function rooms and 18beautiful bedrooms

• Licensed for Civil Weddings• Wedding & Conference Facilities

• Style, true hospitality and great food• Open everyday to non residents

for morning coffee, lunch,afternoon tea and dinner

Experience the inspirational cuisine of ourExecutive Chef for lunchtime and evening

dining or for a wonderful Sunday lunch

A Stunning BoutiqueCountry Hotel

www.hartnollhotel.co.uk

hartnoll quarter page ad:hartnoll quarter page ad 2/8/10 08:50 Page 1

Tell 162,225 foodies about your business. Call us today on 01271 859299 or email: [email protected]

www.food-mag.co.uk

IT’S OFFICIALfood is the BIGGEST food magazine in the South West

with 162,225 readers!

Our March/April editions have been independently audited and it’s revealed a circulation of 20,025 (60,075 readers) for the Bristol, Bath and Somerset edition, 20,025 (60,025 readers) for the Devon edition, and 14,025 (42,075 readers) for the Cornwall edition, making it the big banana of South West food magazines.

The big banana

Food audit ad 1.indd 1 18/08/2010 16:11:11

Everhot Cookers, Coaley Mill, Coaley, Dursley,Glos. GL11 5DS www.everhot.co.uk

13 amp electric... flueless and controllable.Available in a range of sizes from 60 to 150cms.Call us on 01453 890018.

Devon Nov10 S4.indd 41 13/10/2010 14:38:03

42 | www.food-mag.co.uk

Exceptional food, freshly prepared daily using locally sourced

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T 01726 874050 · www.thecornwall.com Pentewan Road · Tregorrick · St Austell PL26 7AB

Arboretum ad v3_Layout 1 09/08/2010 09:36 Page 1

Devon Nov10 S5.indd 42 13/10/2010 14:31:17

www.food-mag.co.uk | 43

Talk us through your ideal local kitchen.We supply many of our kitchens with Cornish granite, which works beautifully when polished up for work surfaces. It’s called Cornish Silver Grey Granite, a flecked granite with a very distinct character. There are cheaper versions but man-made granites have a more uniform look – it’s dense and patterned, and there’s nothing else like it.

Often we go into old farmhouses, or Devon longhouses, and they’re lucky enough to still have the original Cornish slate flooring. We can then design them a hand-made kitchen with Cornish granite on top, and the two complement each other beautifully – it’s the same natural colour range and creates a local connection.

Sounds beautiful - but what if we don’t have original slate floors? Delabole in north Cornwall is the biggest open slate quarry in Europe. It’s also probably the best slate in the world – I don’t think there are many people who disagree with me on that. A lot of our customers ask for Cornish slate flooring because it has such a pleasing colour – not like a lot of the really black, gloomy slate you see around.

So, how much does Cornish slate cost?It’s pricey – you pay a premium as it’s such a well-known and respected product. Your average Chinese slate would be £25 per

square metre, whereas Delabole slate is £95 per square yard.

When it comes to the wood, what are the alternatives to hardwoods imported from far-flung lands?We create each kitchen from scratch, so source wood specifically for each project. Often I’ll go to the reclamation yard and spend a few hours walking around and sifting through the timber – and pick out what I think is right for the kitchen in question. At the moment a lot of the reclaimed timber is coming from buildings in London being knocked down for the Olympics. But in the past we’ve made kitchens out of reclaimed timber from the old Freedom Fields Hospital in Plymouth.

Imported woods might be a lot cheaper, but I think our native timbers have a lot more character. English oak and ash are our two good native broadleaf timbers – the grain structure of English oak in particular is lovely to look at, while the cheaper and faster-growing American import is straighter-grained.

Simply WoodThe Showroom, Kilkhampton, near Bude, EX23 9QN. Tel. 01288 321772. www.simplywood.com

5 minute guide to ...Creating a kitchen

from local materials

Everyone is well-versed these days in sourcing local ingredients, but what about the materials that go into the kitchen itself? Ismay Atkins caught up with Mark Trewin of Simply Wood, which creates hand-made kitchens.

At the moment a lot of the reclaimed timber is coming from buildings in London being knocked down for the Olympics.

Devon Nov10 S5.indd 43 13/10/2010 14:31:22

44 | www.food-mag.co.uk

Helena Murch is growing garlic

for cooking and pickling.

GourmetgardenerGrowing good things to eat

Get planting nowFew crops equal garlic in their culinary usefulness, beauty, ease to grow and potential health boosting properties. This autumn I‘ve harvested enough garlic to see us through the year from just three large bulbs of garlic. So for those of you who are garlic lovers - get planting now.

Most advice will suggest buying disease-free bulbs to plant. There are many different varieties, so there is potential to experiment with two, three or more types. If you get stuck then have a go with bought garlic that you use for cooking- it’s a good way to get rid of those cloves that are beginning to sprout. I tend to

save the largest bulbs from the previous year and use these instead of buying

afresh and for the last three years haven’t encountered any problems. Each little clove planted should become a bulb - one of nature’s miracles.

Cultivated garlic ideally requires a sunny open position

on well-draining rich but light soil. It also requires cold conditions to

get going so try to plant before Christmas.

Here’s what to do:

1. Dig over the soil and remove any weeds.

2. Carefully handle each bulb and split into cloves, keeping it in its dry papery jacket.

3. Plant each clove pointy-end-up so that the tip is just beneath the surface, and leave about 10cm between each clove and about two or three times as much distance between rows. Mark the rows so that you can avoid damage to shoots when hoeing.

4. Green shoots will appear and then grow into a plant that resembles a leek. Little attention is required except hoeing away weeds between plants, being careful not to damage shallow roots or bulbs, and removing flowering shoots. Try not to over-water during dry spells, especially near harvest time.

5. The bulbs are ready to dig up the following summer when the outer leaves start to turn yellow and floppy. Check by digging up one of the larger plants first. Gently remove the soil attached to the garlic bulb gently.

6. Leave to dry for a couple of weeks in a dry sunny position and then get creative, bunching them together. You can eat the garlic green without drying - it has a milder flavour. Use throughout the year, and check occasionally for any bulbs that have rotted off.

Happy garlic growing!GG

‘Each little clove

planted should

become a bulb

- one of nature’s

miracles.’

Devon Nov10 S5.indd 44 13/10/2010 14:31:24

www.food-mag.co.uk | 45

Gourmetpickings

GourmetgardenerGrowing good things to eat

‘They look fantastic in a martini.’

A bit of a pickle

If you’re ahead of the game and have harvested garlic this season why not try pickling some?

Peel the cloves and put in a sterilised glass jar. Heat some vinegar in a saucepan and add some sugar, stirring until it dissolves. Red chillis are a great addition, or you may want to add some mustard, celery seeds or chopped red pepper.Cover the garlic cloves with the vinegary mixture and cover with a lid. Then hide them away and try not to eat them for at least three weeks. They make a lovely addition to

a cheese and cracker supper, and look fantastic in a martini.

Personally recommended byAntony Worrall Thompson

Winner of numerous taste awards. A Christmas pudding with a twist. Light and fruity with gentle spices.

NO Suet. Gluten Free. Nut Free.Suitable for Vegetarians.

Voted Number 1 Pud by The Daily Telegraph

For Orders Call 0845 602 6862

All British handmade produce

www.chrimbopud.co.uk | www.feeding-your-imagination.co.uk

or shop online at chrimbopud.co.uk

organic therapeutic chocolate

chrimbo pud

Devon Nov10 S5.indd 45 13/10/2010 14:31:26

46 | www.food-mag.co.uk

01872 573656w w w . t a b l e b h o t e . c o . u k Gluten free, and free from added colour and flavour.

See our website for stockists or buy online.

Delicious, freshly made, gluten free cooking sauces. Home made tasting convenience food in a busy world.

Guest House & RestaurantSampson Barton

www.sampsonbarton.co.uk email: [email protected] Nympton, South Molton, Devon EX37 9TG

A TRADITIONAL 17TH CENTURY LONGHOUSEIN AN IDYLLIC COUNTRYSIDE SETTING

Fabulous food and great hospitality guarantee a memorable evening.

Christmas bookings now being taken. A roaring log fire and oak beams create a wonderful

atmosphere for celebrating the festive period.

Six lovely en-suites available at special Yuletide rates.SEE WEBSITE FOR DETAILS.

WHEN IN SIDMOUTH, DON’T FORGET TO VISIT DUKES...A stylish, informal, Free House on Sidmouth seafront, providing comfortable en-suite accommodation and a relaxed continental atmosphere.

Al fresco eating and drinking • Lovely bedrooms with great sea views

Open daily from 10am • Food served from 12 noon

“The trendiest joint in town!” Anna Shepard, The Times May 2009

E AT … D R I N K … S TAY …

DUKES • THE ESPLANADE • S IDMOUTH • DEVON • EX10 8AR01395 513320 • [email protected] • www.hotels-sidmouth.co.uk

House of Marbles • Bovey Tracey • Devon • 01626 [email protected] • www.houseofmarbles.com

‘Pearl Jam’ by Olly

(Apologies to Mr. Vermeer)

A licensed restaurantserving a heavenly breakfast, superb coffeesand cakes and a huge delicious lunch menu.

The biggest and best cream tea in Devon.Eat in the old ‘dipping sheds’ andadjoining conservatory or you can

lunch al fresco in the games gardenwhilst enjoying the spectacle

of the marble fountain.Our facilities are also available for private functions.

Masses of free parking.Open 9am-5pm Monday to Saturday 10am-5pm Sunday

TheArt of Food & Drink...

Old Pottery RestaurantThe

pearl jam food ad:Layout 1 12/8/10 09:44 Page 1

The busy little farm shop in the town

Red Lion Yard, Okehampton EX20 1AW01837 811 762 / 53915www.hallwoodfreshveg.co.uk

A glorious array of freshly picked seasonal produce direct from our own and other local farms and a scrumptious

range of deli goodies from local artisan food producers.

The Muddiford Inn & RestaurantContemporary Dining in North Devon

The Muddiford Inn serves top-quality, freshly prepared cuisine. Our A la Carte, 'Specials' and Bar Menus change regularly,

using seasonal local produce. We also serve fine Wines and Ales. Sunday lunch is a must. Eat in the 16th Century Inn or large

garden.

Also, we have a children's play area and bouncy castle. Plenty of Al fresco Dining. Child and Dog Friendly.

Reservation advisable.

Now

in

its

succ

essf

ul t

hird

yea

r

01271 850243www.muddifordinn.com | www.muddifordinn.co.uk

email: [email protected], Barnstaple, EX31 4EY

Experience the difference in quality and taste

Love food?

www.food-mag.co.uk

Devon Nov10 S5.indd 46 13/10/2010 14:31:30

www.food-mag.co.uk | 47

Special offer for food readersThe tins usually retail at £23.99 plus P&P for the three, but food readers can buy them at the special price of £19.44, plus receive an additional 10% off anything else ordered when they buy the tins from The Contemporary Home website. Postage and packaging costs £3.99 for unlimited items and is free on orders over £70.

To get this special offer visit:www.tch.net and use the code

MFOODMAGOFFER when you’re purchasing.

SPECIAL

OFFER

food Reader clubBrilliant tins for storing your Christmas baking

This pretty and fun set of vintage-style tins with cupcake, egg and jelly design is just the ticket for keeping all of those mince pies and cakes fresh over Christmas. And they’re so colourful they’ll brighten up a kitchen all on their own. Diameters, approximately: 22cm, 20cm, and 17cm. Height approximately: 9cm, 8.2cm and 7.8cm. Order them today!

Devon Nov10 S5.indd 47 13/10/2010 14:31:35

48 | www.food-mag.co.uk

LOCAL PRODUCEBITE ME!Probably the best pies in Devon. Meat pies, savouries, cakes, all from our own recipes using local ingredients where possible. We also offer a full catering and event management service.Cross Park, Copplestone, Devon, EX17 5NW.Tel. 07944 691914.E: [email protected]

COTSWOLD GOLDCotswold Gold Extra Virgin Cold Pressed Rapeseed Oil brings a healthy alternative to cooking with oil that is 100% British grown and produced on our farm in the Cotswolds. Ideal for: frying, dressings, roasting and marinating.Follow us on Twitter and [email protected] (07867 938221)[email protected] (07739 363633)www.cotswoldgold.co.uk

FIGGY’S PUDDINGSAward-winning luxury Christmas Puddings, handmade in Devon to a traditional family recipe. Made using only the finest ingredients including 10-year-old Somerset Cider Brandy and O’Hanlon’s Port Stout from Devon. The perfect choice to complete your festive feasts and also ideal as gifts for your foodie friends and family. Orders taken online or by phone:Tel. 01392 459488www.figgys.co.uk

WINECHRISTOPHER PIPER WINESEstablished in 1979, we are a Devon based, independent wine merchant supplying both trade and the public throughout the UK. Our service begins and ends with quality.1 Silver Street, Ottery St Mary, Devon EX11 1DB.Tel. 01404 814139. E: [email protected] www.christopherpiperwines.co.uk

ELLIS WHARTON WINESOffering a large selection of hand-made “real” wines and spirits produced carefully and sustainably in small quantities by independent growers, including many organic, biodynamic and natural wines. Tastings available instore regularly. National delivery available.St. Andrews Road, Par, Cornwall, PL24 2LX.Tel. 01726 825255.www.ewwines.co.uk

FISH GIBSONS PLAICE FISHMONGERS Devon’s fishmonger of the year supplies locally sourced inshore fish and shellfish from predominantly line caught and sustainable stocks. Local crab and lobsters a speciality. Free home deliveries, free cooking advice and recipe cards in store. Situated in Exeter’s premier independent shopping village.38 Magdalen Road, Exeter, EX24TD. Tel. 01392 495344. www.gibsonsplaice.com

CATERINGADAM’S CUISINEWe use Devon’s best local produce to create fabulous menus designed around your taste and budget. From fine private dining to silver service events for 200 guests.Call Adam Fletcher, private chef, wedding, function and event catering specialist.Tel. 01626 362075 M: 07500 481956.www.adamscuisine.co.uk

SERVICESPERFECT FIT KITCHENSAn affordable, professional kitchen-fitting service, operating within a 30-mile radius of Bideford. The average kitchen will cost less than £800 to fit, and in addition we can arrange for your electrical, plumbing, tiling and flooring work to be carried out. Please call to arrange a free quote.Tel. 01237 429399 or 07595 541513.

ALISON STEVENS & CO Chartered accountants, chartered tax adviser, self assessment tax returns, small business accounts, limited company accounts, personal tax planning, capital gains tax, book-keeping, business development, business start ups, VAT returns, payroll. Free initial consultation. Personal visits if preferred.Tel. 01237 459460.E: [email protected]

BREWER, HARDING & ROWEA high profile Devon law firm, providing a wide range of services for both individuals and businesses. We pride ourselves in being approachable and proactive.Offering honest, straightforward, solid legal advice that is easy to understand.Barnstaple 01271 342271. Exeter 01392 496100.Bideford 01237 472666. Braunton 01271 812033.Ilfracombe 01271 863495.www.bhrlaw.co.uk

To be included call 01271 859182 or email:

[email protected]

The very best local food, drink and services

It’s allin the box

Churchill Way, Northam, North Devon EX39 1NSTel: 01237 477160 Email: [email protected]

www.marshford.co.uk

North Devon’s local veg box companyGreat tasting localorganic produce including organic produce including meat, dairy and a selection meat, dairy and a selection of groceries available from of groceries available from our shop and online

Choose your own selection at our shop with easy parking and friendly sta�!

Devon Nov10 S5.indd 48 13/10/2010 14:31:40

www.food-mag.co.uk | 49

AshburtonEvery Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 9.30am to 3pm,

Tuckers Yard.

BarnstapleMain food market on Fridays,

9am-3pm at the Pannier Market, Town Centre.

Food also available on Tuesday and Saturdays, 9am-3pm.

BidefordSecond and fourth Saturdays from Easter to September, 9am-2pm on

The Quay.

Bovey TraceyFortnightly on Saturdays, 8.30am-

1.30pm at the Town Square.

Bratton FlemingFourth Saturday of each month, 9.30am-12pm at the Village Hall.

BrauntonFourth Saturday of each month, 9.30am-12pm at the Village Hall.

Combe MartinThird Saturday of the month,

9.30am-12pm at the Village Hall.

CreditonFirst Saturday of the month,

10am-1pm at the Town Square.

CullomptonSecond Saturday of the month,

9.30am-12.30pm at Station Road car park.

DartmouthSecond Saturday of the month,

9am-1pm at the Old Market Square.

DawlishFirst Friday of each month at

The Lawn.

Exeter: Every Thursday, 9am-2pm at

Fore Street/South Street.

ExmouthSecond Wednesday of the month at

the Strand Gardens, 9am-1pm.

HartlandFirst Sunday of the month from April

to October at the Parish Hall in The Square.

HeantonSecond Saturday of the month,

9.30am-12.30pm at the Parish Hall.

HonitonThird Thursday of the month,

8.30am-1pm at St Paul’s Church forecourt.

HolsworthyEvery Wednesday at The Square.

IlfracombeFirst Saturday and third Sunday of each month, 10am-12.30pm at the

Lantern on the High Street.

KingsbridgeFirst and third Saturday of the

month, 9am-1pm at the Town Square.

LyntonFirst Saturday of the month, 10am-

12.30pm at the Town Hall.

Newton AbbotEvery Tuesday, 9am-3pm at

Courtenay Street.

KillertonThird Saturday in every month,

10.30am-1.30pm.

OkehamptonThird Saturday of the month 9am-1pm at St James’ Chapel Square.

Ottery St MaryFirst Friday of month, 9am-1pm at Hind Street Car Park. (no market in

January).

PlymouthSecond and fourth Saturday of the

month, 9am-4pm at Sundial, Armada Way.

SeatonUsually every third Friday, 9am-1pm

(check Town Hall notice board for details) at the Town Hall.

South MoltonFourth Saturday of the month, 7am-

1pm at the Pannier Market.

SpreytonFirst Saturday of the month, 10am –

12pm at Spreyton Village Hall.

TavistockSecond and fourth Saturday, 9am-

1pm at Bedford Square.

Go local with food’s list of produce markets in Devonmarketssuper

www.food-mag.co.uk | 49

9.30am-12pm at the Village Hall.

First Saturday of the month, 10am-1pm at the Town Square.

Second Saturday of the month, 9.30am-12.30pm at Station Road car

Second Saturday of the month, 9am-1pm at the Old Market Square.

First Friday of each month at

Every Thursday, 9am-2pm at Fore Street/South Street.

LyntonFirst Saturday of the month, 10am-

12.30pm at the Town Hall.

Newton AbbotEvery Tuesday, 9am-3pm at

Courtenay Street.

TavistockSecond and fourth Saturday, 9am-

1pm at Bedford Square.

Devon Nov10 S5.indd 49 13/10/2010 14:31:54

50 | www.food-mag.co.uk

How did you come to be running a hotel on Dartmoor?I worked in film production in London for 20 years and towards the end was specialising in commercials for food and drink. When I first moved to the South West I opened a guesthouse in Ashburton, and I went on to manage a hotel in Widecombe-in-the-Moor. One day in 2007 the details of Prince Hall Hotel landed on my doorstep – I walked in and that was it, I just had that feeling. Whoever decided to build this house was extraordinary – the setting is fantastic.

What was your vision for the hotel?We wanted to create a friendly ambience in a beautiful location – a real home from home with exceptional service. We’re also very dog-friendly – that’s an important part of our business. Truly dog-friendly hotels are very few and far between. Here, dogs are welcome everywhere in the hotel except the restaurant. And if people really don’t want to be apart from their dog, they can even have their dinner served in the lounge.

What’s on the menu at Prince Hall?My husband Christopher and I have an incredibly strong ethos regarding local seasonal food – everything is prepared from fresh and the menu changes daily. It’s a bit of a cliché now, but we’re serious about it.

We’re surrounded by the most incredible produce: we get beef from our next-door farmer; our butcher is just down the road; and we source fresh, local fish. We know where everything comes from – it’s all traceable. Our head chef Ashley Wright is passionate about it too – you won’t find South African green beans on our menu.

My husband Chris also started our own kitchen garden last year so we have kale, courgettes, herbs,and salad leaves, and we keep our own pigs for bacon, ham and chorizo. What we wanted to do is create a restaurant not just for guests but for locals too – finding somewhere that serves really good food in the middle of Dartmoor is hard.

What are your favourite dishes?Our chef does amazing soups – I love his beetroot velouté with horseradish pannacotta. We also make our own ice cream in all sorts of flavours – we had popcorn ice cream last week. I have a very sweet tooth and soon we’re launching a monthly Dartmoor Pudding Club. After a not-too-filling main course, our chefs will come in with four or five different puddings covered theatrically in great big cloches. Everyone gets to try all the puddings, vote on their favourite and take the winning recipe home.

Prince Hall Hotel Two Bridges, Dartmoor, PL20 6SA. Tel. 01822 890403. www.princehall.co.uk

foodfileFi Daly

Up on the moors, the Prince Hall

Hotel is an idyllic, eight-

room hotel with a name for highly

personalised service – even

pooches are treated royally

– and a menu drawing on

Devon’s fresh produce. Its owner

Fi Daly told Ismay Atkins

about the joys of serving great food right in the middle

of Dartmoor.

‘If people really don’t want to be apart from their

dog, they can even have their

dinner served in the lounge.’

Bite sizedFine dining or pub grub?

It has to be fine dining. I love Gidleigh Park – I go there about

once a year when I get the chance.

Wednesday evening fail-safe dish?

I‘m very lucky as my husband is a self-taught chef – but if I had to cook, it would a comforting

shepherd’s pie.

Secret food vice?

Chocolate in any form.

Happy to never eat again?

Snails – I just don’t get it.

Devon Nov10 S5.indd 50 13/10/2010 14:31:57

www.food-mag.co.uk | 51

foodfileFi Daly

Open Monday – Saturday, 9am-5pm. Closed SundaysTel: 01392 825940 www.bradburysltd.co.ukBradbury’s, Denbury Court, Matford Park, Exeter EX2 8NB

•Devon’s only source for the very latest designer furniture from Germany and Holland

•The south-west’s most dazzling showroom with over 15 roomsets

•Creative kitchen design, project management and installation by experienced specialists

•KBSA and Charter Mark status, so buy with confidence

•Serving satisfied customers for over 11 years

Bradburys. Be inspired.

Devon Nov10 S5.indd 51 13/10/2010 10:53:15

Join us this winter for one of our exclusive gourmet weekendsWith AA award-winning cuisine, unbeatable facilities, and impeccable service and hospitality, it’s no wonder that we are the leading hotel group in the South West.

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Call our reservations today on: 01271 344496 or email: [email protected] www.brendhotels.com

Falmouth01326 313042

North Devon01271 890212

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Devon Nov10 S5.indd 52 13/10/2010 10:53:19