foodies of new england winter 2015

Winter 2015

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Fruit ChallengeFruit ChallengeThe Best Chefs, Their Favorite Fruits, Extraordinary Creations!

Gluten Free Pizza Exploring Farmers Markets More Than Just Produce

Hunt Road Berry Farm A Labor of Love

The History of...Juniper Berries

Nestled on 600 acres of New England country-side, Salem Cross Inn offers seasonal menus with traditional fare alongside what todays dining public is looking for. Incorporating heirloom vegetables and herbs grown in our own gardens, and locally raised beef, everything is prepared fresh daily.

Experience the ever popular Fireplace Feasts where prime rib is roasted using an antique roasting jack in the fieldstone fireplace in this 18th century farmhouse.

Visit our website to learn more about our Drovers Roasts, Farmers Dinners, Christmas Memories Dinner Theater, New England weddings and other family events.

260 West Main Street West Brookfield, MA 01585 508.867.2345 www.salemcrossinn.com

Experience New England Dining at its Best

Photo: Heidi Finn

Experience New England Dining at its Best POMpari PickinsCreated especially for you by Foodies Barista Adam Gerhart

1 oz Campari1 oz POM juice 1/2 oz Apple CiderPOM seers

Combine Campari, POM, and cider in shaker, toss and strain over ice in a snifter and garnish with POM seeds.

Bold, passionate and completely unique, Campari makes a dry and refreshing cocktail that can be enjoyed anytime. Hand-crafted according to the same secret family recipe invented in Italy in 1860, Campari is a one-of-a-kind, refreshing spirit.

Feel the passion.

redpassion

Visit us at: www.campari.com Like us on Facebook at: facebook.com/campari

Banquets, Catering, In-Home Chef

Table 3 Restaurant Group has the perfect setting for your wedding, shower, family reunion, private party, or business meeting. Located in idyllic Sturbridge, Massachusetts, Table 3 has several options to choose from

including our newest post and beam function venue for groups up to 125 people. Whether its a catered event or one of our three locations, our experienced staff will coordinate everything to perfection, making sure your event is

special and memorable. All of the items on our menus are carefully selected and prepared by our executive chef to ensure the finest quality for your guests. Visit us at T3Chefs.com to learn more or call us at 774-241-8450.

CHEFS CATERINGTABLE 3 RESTAURANT GROUP420 Main Street Sturbridge, MA 01566 774.241.8450 T3Chefs.com

Contributors

Publisher: Mercury Media & Entertainment, LLC

Managing Editor: Domenic Mercurio

Contributing Editors: Julie Grady Thomas Jodie Lynn Boduch Christopher Dufault

Director of Social Media: Jodie Lynn Boduch

Much Ado Marketing

Writers and Contributors: Matt Webster, Alina Eisenhauer, Ellen Allard,

Adam Gerhart, Elaine Pusateri Cowan, Jodie Lynn Boduch, Peggy Bridges, Ryan Maloney, Christopher Rovezzi,

Christine Whipple, Sandy Lashin-Curewitz, David Kmetz, Brad Schwarzenbach,

Stacy Horowitz, Matt Jones, Jeff Cutler, Tom Verde, Sarah Connell, Honee Hess, Briana Palma

Professional Photography: Scott Erb & Donna Dufault

Erb PhotographyArt Director: Rick Bridges Richard Bridges Design

Website: Jodie Lynn Boduch

Much Ado MarketingAccount Manager:

Carol AdlesteinFoodies of New England Magazine

Box 380 Sturbridge MA 01566

[email protected]@erbphoto.com

[email protected]

[email protected]

All content 2014, Mercury Media Entertainment All Rights Reserved Printed in USA

Foodies of New England assumes no financial responsibility for errors in advertisements. No portion of Foodies of New England, advertising or editorial, may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written permission of the publisher.

The information contained in this publication is believed to be accurate, however the publisher does not guarantee its accuracy. The opinions expressed by others within this publication are not necessarily those of the publisher or its employees.

By accepting advertising neither Foodies of New England nor Mercury Media Entertainment is endorsing or guaranteeing the quality of service or products within those advertisements. Every effort is made to ensure that the advertisements come from repu-table companies, however we cannot take responsibility for how an advertiser deals with the public.

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Winter 2015

Foodies of New England 5

6 Foodies of New England

F e a t u r e s

14Fruit ChallengeThe Best Chefs Using Their Favorite Fruit

44Cooking Up a Career; Part IIInterview with Culinary Student Joan Mary Jablonoski

52Spencer Trappist AleAmericas First & Only Trappist Brew

62Glass FruitCreating Fruit at 2200 Degrees

64Hunt Road Berry Farm A Labor of Love

72Farmers MarketsMore Than Just Produce

90Team Chef CompetitionStudent Chefs In-Training

108Lord Jeffrey InnInspired Local Cuisine

116The Fruits of New EnglandA Fall Classic

124Hot PotA Universal Language

14

52

64

72

Contents

Cover: IPA & Peach BBQ Sauce from Cask & Vine in Derry, NH


D e p a r t m e n t s

48History of...Juniper Berries

58Gluten FreePizza!

70Pasta (and Life): 101Play With Your Food

86Food for ThoughtSpecialty Salsas

98Healthy at HomeOne Part Asparagus, Two Parts Inspiration

112Sweet SensationsTomatoes - Not Just A Summer Fruit

114Brew ReviewWeihenstephan Hefeweiss

120Whiskey-Under Loch & KeyDrink Now! For The End is Rye!

126Wines of DistinctionFlama dOr

128Liberating LibationsRefreshing Fruit Cocktails

48

98

120

86

4 Old Stagecoach Road Sturbridge, MA 01566 508.347.3645www.finelineswood.com

Let Fine Lines help you fall in love with your kitchen. Well convert your kitchen into a beautifully and sensibly-crafted focal point of your home. Fine Lines has the vision, experience, and abilities to make your dream a reality!

Ask about our unique cutting and serving boards!

Like us on Facebook www.facebook.com/finelineswood

...feel the difference

Rich, Warm & Inviting...


Yes, we did it. We went

ahead and threw down

the culinary gauntlet.

We asked some of New

Englands best chefs to

pick their favorite regional

fruits and create something

extraordinary and they

did it.

This Land is Foodies Land

L e t t e r f r o m t h e e d i t o r

Indeed, they responded to the New England Fruit Challenge, in spades. Be amazed by the creations of Chefs Kristin and Matthew Gennuso from Chez Pascal in Providence, or check out Chef Michele Ragussis Season 8 Food Network Star finalist and recently featured on NBCs hit show, Food Fighters - from The Pearl in Rockland, Maine. Also in the lineup, Chef Toby Hill from Brewster Fish House on the Cape, Chef George Craft from Derry, New Hampshires Cask & Vine, and finally, Chef Allen Granberg from Belllas Bistro in Putnam, Connecticut.

As if that werent enough, weve lined the delightful pages of this issue with a small handful of New Englands ever-expanding presence of farmers markets. Youll delve into the best farmers markets we could find in Massachusetts, Ver-mont and Connecticut, with related features that include a one-night stay at The Lord Jeffrey Inn in Amherst, complete with a walking trip to the local Farmers Market accompanied by Executive Chef, Dino Giordano.

Other delightful features youll not want to miss include an expos on the Tan-tasqua Regional High Schools Team Chef competition, which spotlights the schools culinary department as well as its finest young chef-to-be culinary stu-dents in full competition. Speaking of up-and-coming chefs be sure you check out Tom Verdes Cooking Up a Career series, Part II, which showcases the life and experiences of culinary students on their way to gastronomic greatness.

Then, for you foodies who are looking for more than just a food experience, stop for a refreshing (and spiritual) encounter the Trappist Brewery in Spencer, Massa-chusetts, which features craft brews so delicious and marvelously created, youll swear the brewers had a little extra help - from above.

Apropos of our New England Fruit Challenge and farmers market themes, San-dy Curewitz takes you on a Fall Fruit Picking tour. After, let Peggy Bridges take you out to meet Jim the Berry Guy, at Hunt Road Berry Farm in West Brookfield, Massachusetts.

Fruit, fruit and more fruit! Even when its not real, it still looks delicious! says Honee Hess, executive director of the Worcester Center for Crafts in Worcester, Massachusetts, as she describes the beautiful monumentally-sized, blown-glass fruit creations of glass artist Stephanie Chubbuck.

Of course, no issue of Foodies of New England magazine would ever be complete without the stylish and informative musings of our regular department staff, includ-ing Jodie Boduchs History Of (Juniper Berries), Ellen Allards Gluten Free Pizza, Peg Bridges Food for Thought (a myriad of fruit-based salsas), Alina Eisenhauers Sweet Sensations, Matt Websters Brew Review, Elaine Cowans Healthy at Home, Ryan Maloneys Whiskey Under Loch & Key, Adam Gerharts Liberating Libations, Chris Rovezzis Pasta (and life): 101, and FNE publisher Domenic Mercurios Wines of Distinction.

continued on page 12


Happy autumn, Foodies! As you venture out to ex-perience in reality - the joys within our pages, were confident youll be reminded of the many reasons why we live in a true foodie paradise New England. Enjoy your good fortune of being a true foodie of New England.

Domenic Mercurio, Jr.Editor/Publisher

Vanilla MagnificoCreated especially for you by Foodies Barista Adam Gerhart

2 oz Frangelico2 scoops Vanilla bean ice creamMuddled Pecans Fresh Nutmeg

1. Combine Frangelico, ice cream and muddled pecans2. Shake vigorously3. Strain over a little scoop of ice cream in a martini glass4. Garnish with crushed pecans and fresh ground nutmeg.

Frangelico is a traditional hazelnut liqueur - enjoyed neat, over ice, with coffee or in a wide variety of stylish cocktails.

Try Frangelico for yourself and see why its the Irresistable Hazelnut Taste

Visit us at: www.frangelico.com orLike us on Facebook at: facebook.com/Frangelico

Irresistable Hazelnut Taste


Yes, we did it. We threw down the gauntlet. The challenge was issued, and the chefs of New England responded.

The challenge: Make the foodies of New England proud by building your best savory or sweet creation using one indigenous

New England fruit.

Written by Domenic D. Mercurio, Jr.Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

The Sweetness of the New England

Fruit Challenge


Now, the hard part: In order to deliver the most eye-popping masterpieces to our Foodies fans, we scoured the New England culinary landscape in search of chefs from each state worthy of the challenge. What we came up with was a short list of nothing less than culinary ninjas.

Throughout the ensuing pages, youll be dazzled by the litany of knife-wielding, veggie-chopping, steak-sear-ing, sauce-simmering, and pastry-pinching gastronomic geniuses that weve uncovered for your education and amusement.

Its not easy finding the best-of-the-best in each New England state; in fact, its down-right exhausting to try to uncover that one chef, that one creative mastermind, that one unique maverick, that one relentless renegade that can pull out all the stops and deliver the goods to our foodie fans.

But, after hours of research, investigation, hunting, and screening, weve found the optimal line-up of supremely capable culinarians to grace our colorful pages with the re-sults of their masterfully imaginative images of epicurean excellence.

Our chefs include Kristin and Matthew Gennuso from Providences Chez Pascal, who created a Summer Melon Salad with sea salty feta, black olives and spicy grilled squid.

Were happily featuring Chef Michele Ragussis Sea-son 8 Food Network Star finalist and recently featured on NBCs hit show, Food Fighters - from The Pearl in Rock-land, Maine. Shes given us a delectably savory seared duck breast in a blueberry port sauce.

Also in the lineup, Chef Toby Hill from Brewster Fish House on the Cape, who prepared Pan Seared Foie Gras with house made mascarpone, pickled cranberry compote, and waffles.

Be sure not to miss Chef George Craft from Derry, New Hampshires Cask & Vine, who wowed our foodies panel-ists with a braised pork cheek with peaches served three ways: Peach Chutney, Jalapeno Peach Gastrique, and IPA Peach Barbecue Sauce. Served with aged Vermont ched-dar polenta and roasted Brussels sprouts. Now, that gives just peachy new meaning.

And finally, Chef Allen Granberg from Bellas Bistro in Putnam, Connecticut, who thrills us with his Grilled Striped Bass over a sweet potato hash and drizzled with a beach plum reduction over vegetable ash goat cheese.

Get ready, foodies. No, dont just get ready be ready. Be sure youre prepared, locked and loaded, comfortable, situated, focused, alert, free from distraction, completely and entirely able and ready to encounter and absorb the en-suing creations to which our chefs have given artistic birth. Yes, be ready, foodies for here here are your rewards for


In order to deliver the most eye-popping masterpieces to our Foodies fans, we scoured the New England culinary landscape in search of chefs from each state worthy of the challenge.

patiently awaiting yet another issue of New Englands food magazine, New Englands culinary chronicle, New Englands elaborate ensemble of epicurean excellence this, indeed, is your food magazine, foodies.

So wait no longer, and be free to unleash all of your sens-es. Let your eyes widen as you flip page after glorious page, scanning one captivating image after another, your retinas expanding in size, your imagination gushing over how in-credible the creations truly must be in reality. Go ahead, we give you permission - allow your olfactory senses to trigger your brains intuition as to just how wonderful our chefs creations actually could taste, should you have fork in hand. Yes, itll be okay - we assure you to delve into your food magazine, New England, and relish in your Foodies of New England.FNE.


S

Written by Jeff Cutler Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

International Style Cuisine with a Local Flair -

Chez Pascal

Speaking with Chef Matt Gennuso, you can feel his passion for food.

Hes been cooking since he was 16, and even as a restaurant owner,

Gennuso prefers to be on the line every night. Preparing meals for his

guests and being creative with ingredients is what drives him. In fact,

with the increasing emphasis on locally-sourced ingredients, Gennuso

finds new ways to be creative every day.


Summer Melon Salad with sea salty feta, black olives and grilled spicy squid


Establishing himself and building his skills in places like Oakland, New York, Boston, and Holland, Gennuso came well-prepared when he and his wife Kristin bought Chez Pascal 11 years ago. While the food is still internation-ally influenced, most items on the menu focus on local, seasonal food. To that end, Gennusos dish for The New Eng-land Fruit Challenge relies heavily on summer melon.

Plentiful in Rhode Island during sum-mer months, melons bring a sweet simplicity to many dishes. But Chef Gennuso chose melons for the charac-teristics they dont have.

I chose melons for no other reason than they pose a challenge as far as uti-lizing on the savory side, he said.

As you can see from his recipe for Summer Melon Salad, the other ingre-dients and preparation complement the dish so that melons contribute nicely to the final product.

Using local foods in menu and meal prep isnt new to Gennuso. Hes been focused on connecting with the local

suppliers no matter where hes worked. At Chez Pascal specifically, he and Kristin have worked hand-in-hand with the community to build great-tasting dishes.

Its something we have always done, its something we believe in for many reasons, said Gennuso. It (working with local/seasonal foods) makes you appreciate what you have when its in season. A great example is asparagus: we will have it for about a month or so locallythen thats it. We wont see if for another year. Its harder as a cook but I believe thats really what makes cooking seasonally and locally is about. Get it while you can then its gone.

Hes also proud of Rhode Islands role in helping restaurants succeed. There are all types of foods within a short drive, so Gennuso can stock his kitchen or find just what hes looking for quickly. And its all fresh because its local. He says the overwhelming abundance of locally-grown produce, raised meats, and seafood only add to what is al-ready a great restaurant community.

The variety of foods and seasonal na-ture of many items keeps the staff and Gennuso on their toes. They have to remain creative because the ingredients available fresh changes every three or four months.

There might be a little challenge to keeping his staff focused and the food consistent, but he finds a way. Part of the process is challenging himself.

If I dont keep on top of things cu-linarily, people will get bored with our place and go somewhere else, said Gennuso. If you get complacent you run the risk of getting stale, thats when you start to lose customers.

Just looking at the menu, you see a three-course tasting menu, selections of fish, poultry, meat and vegetarian, and much more. From marinated beets with sea salty feta, pecans & creamy rose hip dressing on the appetizer menu to a slow-roasted half duck with parsnip pure, wilted greens and a golden raisin compote on the dinner menu, Gennuso has given flair and flavor to some old favorites.

Summer Melon Salad with Sea Salty Feta, Black Olives and Grilled Spicy Squid

Serves 4

Ingredients:4 slices Crenshaw melon 4 slices honeydew melon4 slices seedless watermelon4 slices musk melon1 Tbsp minced shallots3 Tbsp champagne vinegar3 Tbsp honey1 tsp dijon mustard1/8 cup olive oilPinch chopped mintPinch chopped thymeSalt and black peppers1/2 lb arugula1/8 cup crumbled feta16 oil-cured black olives pitted and roughly chopped1 lb fresh squid tubes, butterflied1 Tbsp Harissa paste1 tsp fresh lemon juice

1 tsp olive oil

Directions: In a small mixing bowl add your minced shallots, then cover with the champagne vinegar and the honey. Next add your mustard, mix to incorporate then slowly whisk in your oil. Once the oil has been incorporated add in your herbs and season with salt and pepper. Reserve until needed.

Marinate your squid with the Harissa paste, lemon juice and olive oil and refrigerate till ready to grill. Dont allow to marinate more than 2 hours.

Place cut melons into a mixing bowl and lightly dress with vinaigrette. Arrange on 4 plates being sure to separate the different varieties of melons. Season with salt and pepper then sprinkle the melons with the olives and feta. Using the same bowl place the arugula in and lightly dress with your vinaigrette. Place squid on very hot grill for no more than two minutes they will curl and thats ok but try to get a good char on them. Remove from the grill and slice into thin rings, arrange the cut squid onto the melons then using the arugula that you have tossed with your vinaigrette place a little pile on each plate. Serve at once.

And the menu is always being tweaked. Ultimately, variety is truly in his blood. From the dish he lists as a favoritebucatini allamatricianato the wurst kitchen they run.

Its basically a take out window inside the restaurant with 16 seats inside for lunch, said Gennuso. We make all our own hot dogs, sausages, pastrami, and so on. Its a house of pork.

For now, Gennuso is concentrating on the end of summer and the start of fall. That can only mean some more innovative and delicious dishes will be on the menu at Chez Pascal very soon.


Chez Pascal 960 Hope Street Providence, RI 02906 401.421.4422 www.chez-pascal.com

Chef Matt Gennuso


Pan-seared foie gras with pickled cranberry compote, house-made mascarpone & buttermilk waffles


M

The Cape Cod Cranberry

Fresh, Contemporary Fare Brought to Life Written by Sarah Connell

Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Many of The Brewster Fish Houses regulars can still remember a time, decades ago, when a small farm stand stood in the restaurants place.

Executive Chef Toby Hill maintains the integrity of The Brewster Fish Houses agricultural roots by continuing to uphold a high standard for

fresh and local produce. Sourcing fruits and vegetables from three Brewster farms, Hill designs and executes seasonal menus that possess both an innovative edge and a charming familiarity. This balance has earned him the praise of everyone on Cape Cod, from the highbrow

vacation set to the loyal locals.


Hill is a respected veteran of the Cape Cod restaurant scene, having earned the edible Cape Cod title of Best Chef in 2011 during his time at Pain DAvignon. Hill speaks with great admiration of Cape Cods culinary network, On the Cape, restaurant owners really have to find their own way in order to maximize three months of the year. It comes down to quality and care; only restaurants that value both of those things will find suc-cess here. Quality and care are appar-ent in every element of The Brewster Fish House, from the tastefully curated wine list to the meticulous execution of each individual plate.

The Brewster Fish House does not accept reservations, but this does not deter serious foodies. Dinner guests should expect to wait over an hour for a table during the summer months. John, The Brewster Fish Houses host for over twenty years, greets patrons with a sense of calm that reverberates throughout the entire establishment. The restaurants atmosphere reflects the tranquility of its authentic beach town surroundings. Stunning pieces of artwork throughout the dining room depict the beaches of Brewster. At the urging of the host, one server humbly admits that she painted a few of the scenes herself. Polished professionals, young families, and old-time residents

sip cold drinks on the patio, all sporting the glow of a day spent seaside. The Brewster Fish House offers an oppor-tunity for unadulterated relaxation that restaurants of its world-class caliber often lack.

Particularly after a day on the bay, Brewster oysters, served raw on the half shell with fresh horseradish and a rose mignonette, are a fitting start to any meal. The fluke ceviche is equally refreshing, served up with red jalape-os, cilantro, watermelon juice, lemon, and apple blossoms. For the heartier

palate, begin with a trio of dry-aged steak tartare deviled eggsdelightfully nostalgic and undeniably on trend.

With careful timing, one can sample The Brewster Fish Houses famed wild striped bass served atop local corn salad with a red verjus. Hill explains that the strictly regulated fishing sea-son limits availability of striped bass on the menu and thus it remains one of his most sought after dishes. One would also be remiss not to indulge in the Sesuit lobster, served with squid ink pasta, smoked oyster mushrooms, pea

Executive Chef Toby Hill


tendrils, sea beans, and crme frache. Hills offerings extend beyond the realm of seafood; in fact, when asked about his favorite item on the menu, Hill shares that he prides himself on his grilled han-gar steak. No meal at The Brewster Fish House is complete without desserttry the chocolate ganache tart served with candied bacon and bourbon gelato.

True to his character, Hills creations are consistently elegant and indisput-ably Cape Cod. When tasked with de-signing a dish that incorporates Capes most iconic fruitthe cranberryChef Hill presents an extraordinary response with pan seared foie gras, served

with house made mascarpone, pick-led cranberry compote, and waffles. The foie gras, as delicate as the cran-berries themselves, proves silky and sumptuous. Hills divine dish manages to pay homage to The Brewster Fish Houses farm stand origins while sub-sequently showcasing his penchant for innovation.

The Brewster Fish House 2208 Main Street Brewster, MA 02631 508.896.7867 www.brewsterfishhouse.com

See recipe on page 27

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2 Gazebos or The Meadow for Your Ceremony 115 Overnight Guest Rooms Outdoor Pool

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Serves 6Ingredients, Mascarpone:1 pint heavy cream1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

Preparation: 1. Bring heavy cream to 185 F in a saucepan.2. Add vinegar, turn off heat, cover and let cool overnight.3. Pour cream mixture into a cheesecloth lined sieve and allow to drain for one hour. 4. Put in a container and refrigerate.Ingredients, Buttermilk Waffles:1 3/4 cups flour2 tablespooons sugar2 teaspoons baking Powder1 teaspoons baking Soda1 teaspoons salt1 cup buttermilk4 ounces butter (melted)2 eggs

Preparation: 1. In a large mixing bowl, combine all the dry ingredients.2. In a smaller mixing bowl, whisk the eggs and milk together and then whisk the wet ingredients into the dry until combined.3. Whisk the melted butter into the batter until combined.4. Place batter in a greased waffle iron and cook until golden brown.Ingredients, Mascarpone:1 pint heavy cream1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

Preparation: 1. Bring heavy cream to 185 F in a saucepan.2. Add vinegar, turn off heat, cover and let cool overnight.3. Pour cream mixture into a cheesecloth lined sieve and allow to drain for one hour. 4. Put in a container and refrigerate.Ingredients, Buttermilk Waffles:1 3/4 cups flour2 tablespooons sugar2 teaspoons baking Powder1 teaspoons baking Soda1 teaspoons salt1 cup buttermilk4 ounces butter (melted)2 eggs

Preparation: 1. In a large mixing bowl, combine all the dry ingredients.2. In a smaller mixing bowl, whisk the eggs and milk together and then whisk the wet ingredients into the dry until combined.3. Whisk the melted butter into the batter until combined.4. Place batter in a greased waffle iron and cook until golden brown.Ingredients, Pickled Cranberry Compote:2 cups apple cider vinegar1 1/2 cups sugar1 tablespoon pickling spice1/2 pound cranberries

Preparation: 1. Combine vinegar, sugar, and pickling spice and bring to a boil.2. Place cranberries in a bowl and pour the boiling liquid over the cranberries through a sieve.3. When cranberries skins crack slightly, remove the cranberries from the liquid, set aside.4. Return the liquid to a saucepan and reduce until thickened.5. Pour back over the cranberries and keep warm.Ingredients, Foie Gras:6 foie gras portions (2-ounce pieces)Kosher salt (to taste)Black pepper (ground; to taste)

Preparation & Plating: 1. Score the foie gras portions and season with salt and pepper.2. In a saut pan on medium heat, sear the foie gras on both sides until the core of the foie gras is just soft.3. Place waffle on a plate, top with mascarpone, spoon cranberries and the liquid onto and around the waffles. Lastly, top with the seared foie gras and serve.

Pan-Seared Foie Gras with Pickled Cranberry Compote, House-made Mascarpone & Buttermilk Waffles


Pork & Peach IPA & Peach bbq sauce


IWritten by Bradley Schwarzenbach


It has become a recurring theme, in these stories I write, that the many unique New England culinary corners I cover seem to be very focused

on defying expectations.

So many chefs to whom I speak are finding inspiration by creatively battling the perception of a staid, unchanging, and predictable

New England palate. And it took George Crafts surprising, bold, and expectation-defying dish to help me finally identify this trend.

Pork & Peach Quite a Pair


When presented with an opportunity to create a fruit-based dish, Craftof Cask & Vine in Derry, New Hampshire immediately went against the grain by choosing peaches.

Challenge AcceptedIts a braised pork cheek with native peaches three ways: peach chutney, jalapeno peach gastrique, and IPA peach barbecue sauce, he said. My upturned eyebrow must have given my thoughts away. You thought I was going to do a dessert, didnt you? he grinned.

Crafts culinary education began by working in chain restaurants in his youth. From there, he realized that there could be more to food and attended the New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vermont. My education was well-balanced, but I definitely gravitated towards fine dining, he said.


Sweet & TartCraft admitted that fruit isnt always a good pair with an entree. It depends on the protein. Fortunately, pork accepts fruits really well. Pork chops and apple-sauce! Pears are good with pork too[but] as a fruit, [peaches] remind me of summer and thats a great memory that I like to bring to my cooking.

The peaches themselves are, indeed, grown locally. Theyre only in season for a month or two but we get them from Massachusetts. Its a short sea-son for peaches in thereJune through Augustand New Englands summer climate is very good for them. Peach trees thrive on a lot of full sun and sandy loam soil. What prevents New England from being a more active peach-grow-ing region is the harsh winter; the brutal cold usually kills any lingering buds and pushes the growing season back into summer.

The dish itself really uses the sweet and tart flavor of peaches, Craft said. The peach brings sweetness; theres heat from the jalapeno; and the pork is just so tender. The cheek is the best meat from the pig, I think. And the slight acidity the fruit brings makes it very well-rounded flavor-wise.

In keeping with Cask & Vines focus on good pairings, Craft recommended his peach and pork cheek be served with Pinot Grigio if drinking wineIl Cava-liere is name-dropped by the chefor a strong IPA if pairing with beer. In the last five years or so, the New Hamp-shire culinary scene has changed a lot and craft beer has been a big part of that. Youre even starting to see New Hampshire microbrews at TGI Fridays!

When pressed on the subject, Craft confessed he created a dish with com-plex flavors and a fruit that was an un-

common choice because he wanted to think outside the norm.

Maybe I just wanted to make it the most complicated, he said with a childish smile.

Cask & Vine 1 East Broadway Derry, NH 03038 603.965.3454 www.caskandvine.com


Executive Chef George Craft

Ingredients:1 lb. poached peaches (coarsely chopped)1 tablespoon canola oil1/4 cup red onion (diced)1 tablespoon garlic (minced)1/2 cup cider vinegar1/8 cup molasses1/4 cup brown sugar6 ounces IPA1/4 cup honey2 cups chipotle ketchupsalt & pepper

Preparation: 1. Over a low simmer, until softened, poach peaches in the following mixture: 1 cup sugar, 1 cup water, 1/4 cup honey. Reserve the liquid for the gastrique recipe below.2. While the peaches are poaching, in a stainless steel pot, sweat the red onion and garlic in oil until softened.3. Add the rest of ingredients and bring to a boil, stirring frequently to prevent burning. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook to desired consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Puree sauce in blender, but use caution if its still hot! Cool and store covered in the fridge for up to one week.

Peach Jalapeno Gastrique2 cups sugar1/2 cup water1 cup reserved poaching liquid1/4 cup cider vinegar1 jalapeno (split)

Preparation: 1. Using a stainless steel pot, gently mix sugar and water. Leave on medium-low heat until sugar is dissolved.2. Turn heat up to medium-high and cook sugar mixture until just before it begins to caramelize.

3. Add liquids and cook until the caramelized sugar dissolves, then bring to a low boil and cook until sauce begins to thicken. Add the jalapeno and remove from heat. Let steep 20 minutes. Strain the sauce and then cool. Store in the fridge until ready to use.

Peach Chutney Ingredients:1 tablespoon butter1/2 tablespoon garlic (minced)1/2 cup red onion (diced)1/2 cup red bell pepper (diced)1 lb. peaches (blanched and diced)1/2 cup sugar1/4 cup champagne vinegar1 teaspoon Chinese five spicesalt & pepper

Preparation: 1. Cook garlic, onion, red peppers in butter until softened. Add remaining ingredients and cook until peaches are softened. Leave chunky or do a quick pulse in a food processor for a finer consistency. Let cool and store in the fridge up to one week.

Braised Pork Cheeks10 lbs. pork cheeksrice flour (for dredging)oilsalt & pepper4 cups white wine1 cup chipotle ketchup1/2 gallon pork stock1 red bell pepper (chopped)1/2 stalk celery (chopped)1 carrot (chopped)4 garlic cloves1 tablespoon fennel seeds (toasted)1 tablespoon black peppercorns2 bay leafsparsley stems2 sprigs rosemary

Preparation: 1. Season and dredge pork cheeks with rice flour and then, in a large rondo, sear all sides in oil until golden brown. Put pork cheeks aside. Deglaze the rondo with white wine, then add ketchup and pork stock. Bring to a boil. Pour mixture over pork cheeks. Cool, cover and let sit over night.2. The next day, add remaining ingredients, cover, and braise in 300F oven until pork cheeks are very tender (about 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours).3. For plating, remove cheeks from braising liquid and brush with peach BBQ sauce. In center of plate, place some aged cheddar polenta and sauted Brussels sprout. Place pork cheeks, then top with peach chutney and drizzle of gastrique.

IPA & Peach BBQ Sauce



Written by David G. KmetzPhotography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Plum Loco-vore

AAnchoring the right corner of a busy block of eateries, shops, and other businesses, Bellas Bistro sits near the epicenter of the happening

downtown buzzfest that is Putnam Main Street. On any summer

weekend, the sidewalks are packed with shoppers, wait staff, cyclists,

musicians and antique hunters of all stripes and ages, searching for that

elusive memento, chatting with friends, enjoying the tunes, or just sharing

a fine casual meal al fresco.


Grilled Striped Bass on sweet potato hash with beach plum reduction over vegetable ash goat cheese


In 2009, Chef Allen Granberg and his wife Carolyn opened Bellas Bistro to-gether. It started as a quaint BYOB es-tablishment with patio dining, and grew to include beer and wine. In 2012, they expanded to a full liquor license, and added a 14-seat bar and full dining room downstairs. They have live enter-tainment on Fridays and Saturdays and often host large functions and dinner parties.

Allen Granberg hails from Northern Virginia and graduated from Johnson & Wales in Providence in 1999. Not con-tent with just that training, Allen pursued a Masters in Italian Cuisine from ICIF (Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners). His schooling was in Asti, Italy, and af-ter that, he served as an apprentice in Torino, Italy in a 2-star Michelin restau-rant before coming home to begin his career.

Upon returning to New England he was quickly appointed Executive Chef at The Restaurant at Union Station in Worcester where he ran the kitchen for four years. After that, he was the Ex-ecutive Chef at Pleasant Valley Country Club in Sutton for three seasons. Allen has also competed at Worcesters Best Chef Competition. Allen creates new menus seasonally and offers nightly specials; there are daily drink features and specials as well. Allens flavor fo-cus on food is Northern Italian cuisine using fresh, local ingredients. Being in New England, he uses a lot of seafood in his cooking (fried oysters, sauteed mussels, ceviche, calamari, etc.), but will also serve boar, duck, lamb ... what-ever is in season.

Allen and his wife, Carolyn Dahlstrom Granberg, from Shrewsbury, MA, met in 2002. Allen is the chef and Carolyn is manager/bartender/server. They have two sons, Bradley 9 and Jack 7, who are very involved in the Bellas family and love to be a part of the business. The family lives in nearby Paxton, MA.

About their choice of Putnam and venue, Carolyn says that We are very

lucky to have chosen to start our busi-ness in Putnam. We saw Putnam as an up-and-coming town and wanted to be a part of it, but still be close to our roots in Worcester. Putnam has re-ally become a destination. The town is sprouting with restaurants, shops, and a great visual and performing arts scene. Our customers have really em-braced our concept over the years and continue to support us as we grow. We have the most amazing regulars. Also, we have the most loyal staff that makes

it a pleasure to come to work and cre-ate every day. That is why we really consider this our Bellas family.

Carolyn continues, We decided to open in a terrible economy, but we were confident about our concept, and that we could create casual, upscale dining experiences for patrons without them having to break the bank. We wanted to bring quality of The North End/Fed-eral Hill/Shrewsbury Street feel to Put-nam in one location. We both have a passion for this business, and knew we

Grilled Striped Bass on Sweet Potato Hash with Beach Plum Reduction Over Vegetable Ash Goat Cheese

Serves 2

Ingredients:

2 10 oz. Striper Steaks:

season with olive oil, sea salt, and cracked pepper

to taste, place on hot grill for 6-8 minutes, each side

Sweet Potato Hash:

2 sweet potato, small diced

1 Anjou pear, small diced

1/2 red onion, small diced

4 oz toasted, broken pecans, toasted (toss lightly

with olive oil, salt and pepper before slightly toasting)

4 leaves fresh sage finely diced

1 tsp vanilla

2 TBS olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Directions: *Toss all ingredients in a bowl, place on sheet pan in the oven at 425 degrees for 15-20 minutes or until sweet potatoes are tender.

Beach Plum Sauce:

10 beach plums cut in half8 oz red wine blend4 oz water1 oz unsalted buttersalt and pepper to taste

Directions:

*In a saut pan, add plums, wine and water. Once it comes to a slow simmer, add butter and keep stirring until butter dissolves. Remove from heat. Sauce is ready to serve but do not serve the seeds on your plate! Enjoy!


have to put in 110% all the time. The first date we went on, Al-len basically described Bellas to me, and we have been working towards it ever since. Now we are here, and its been a great ex-perience. Its not smooth sailing all the time, and we will never be millionaires, but its a passion. Walking through the dining room, patio, and bar, and seeing the smiles on the faces makes it all worth it. Weve built quite a family here with our customers and staff, and its a really good feeling!

Though the working couple is coy about naming farms and food sources they use, when you sit down at a place you can tell within the first few bites whether the food is fresh and/or local. They use local milk, cheese, produce, chicken, fish, and shellfish, and if things arent local as in around the corner, they work to source it as close as possible.

InspirationCarolyn tells about how Chef Allen came up with this dish...

The overall thought for the dish was our being down the Cape and it is something that he would cook for us on vacation: fresh-caught striper from my dads boat, filleted on the beach. Its an end of summer/early fall inspired dish. The sauce is more savory than sweet because of the red wine. Beach plums are native to coastal New England, so he wanted to use a fruit that people may be familiar with but in a different way. It isnt a common combina-tion, but Allen cooks outside the box all the time, and that is what people have come to love and expect from him. Every week, his specials offer something different that you wouldnt think to put together, but works so well. His theory on food is that there is a whole lot out there, and if we arent creating new experiences for people, then whats the point of going out?

Bellas Bistro 83 Main Street Putnam, CT 06260 860.928.7343 www.bellasbistromarket.com


Seared Duck Breast in a Blueberry Port Sauce


W

Blueberries. Theyre the best. Period.

Chef Michele Ragussis draws the line when it comes to the top New England fruit.

Written by Julie Grady ThomasPhotography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Who could ever forget that stunning image from Charlie and the Chocolate Factory: spoiled Violet Beauregarde slowly inflating, her hue

swirling from precious porcelain straight through to very, very blueberry?

Aside from a competitive streak, the champion gum-chewer shares very little in common with Chef Michele Ragussis, unless you count their

undying love for blueberries. Its that very love, specifically for the Maine blueberry (Um, well, theyre just the best) that drove

Michele to showcase the autumn stunner in this years New England Fruit Challenge.


Tremendous things are in store for you!Roald Dahls words ring true, and you might already be expecting that be-cause the name Michele Ragussis is, at this point, very nearly household. You might recognize her from one of her stints on the Food Network (Chopped, 24 Hour Restaurant Battle, Food Net-work Star) or from her own restaurant, The Pearl, located down east in Rock-land, Maine.

After taking over only this year, she has led the quintessential New Eng-land eatery with a particularly high level of gusto and a massive passion for all things beautifully delicious, like the house-made lobster ravioli or the ciop-pino (a fish stew to end all other fish stews, complete with lobster, clams, mussels, fish, scallops, and shrimp).

Did I mention they do brunch as well? Taste the fried green tomato benedict with shrimp and a basil cream sauce or even the grilled asparagus with a crispy soft poached egg served along with

some crab, parmesan, and lemon oil.[The Pearl] really captures what

New England isits got 360-degree views of the ocean; its on Penobscot Bay; its downhome New England food with Greek and Italian flares thrown in; its rustic; its got an old wood oven, she gushed before taking a breath. Its more than that. Its me.

And while you may think that Mi-cheles Italian and Greek heritage reads Brooklyn (she did make a name for her-self there with her first endeavor, Stuft Catering), shes New England all the way.

Its instilled in me, the Connecticut native confessed. The Pearl is sea-sonal, so shes in Maine cheffing for a few months (eat there before Octobers out!), and she wouldnt have it any other way. Other parts of the year, I go where the wind takes me, but from May to Oc-tober I get to do that balls-to-wall res-taurant kitchen kind of thing, then I can jump on my boat with my dogs and go play with the seals. Its great.

Chef & Owner Michele Ragussis


Truer words may not been spoken.Many wonderful surprises await you!This article was a while in the making: twenty-six emails, 4 rescheduled inter-views, and one one-hour delay.

Michele works. Its clear that with such a packed

schedule shes in-demand, but what was instantly refreshing about her was her steely focusher innate ability to give someone else complete and un-divided attention, all but for the occa-sional bark from those aforementioned dogs (Maximus and Clementine), which is something of a rarity in the Age of Ins-tagram, perpetual selfies, and sanitizing filters.

This isnt to say that Michele wasnt effervescent. Her energetic personality was contagious, her voice animated. And, she brings the same amount of dedication and enthusiasm to every-thing she plates, which is exactly why the interview was well worth the wait, just like this super simple seared duck breast in a blueberry port sauce will be.

Its just common sense, really, she said of the dish. Duck goes well with fruit, usually stone fruits, but port and blueberries are the perfect marriage.

Make it. Taste it. Love it. Its the best. Period.

The Pearl Seafood Restaurant & Raw Bar 275 Main Street Rockland, ME 04841 207.594.9889 www.thepearlrockland.com

Duck goes well with fruit, usually stone fruits, but port and blueberries are the perfect marriage.



Which Breast is Best?*What you need to know about duck.Okay, so you might not cook duck everyday.

No big deal. Heres the skinny on this fatty bird.

TasteRich, strong, flavorful. Duck may be one of the fattiest birds you can buy, but dont let that scare you. Its incredibly nutritious with lots of protein, B vitamins, and minerals such as zinc potassium and magnesium. If the high-fat content still scares you, just cut off the skin and the layer of fat underneath. Tah-dah!

There are many different breeds of duckFrench, Englishit seems like every country has their power players, but the important thing to remember is that youre looking for a cut that has soft skin, clear with no tears, bruises, or blemishes.

PreparationBest to have the duck at room tem-perature before it cooks, so remember to take it out of the fridge about 20 minutes before you pop in the oven, on the pan, etc. Just keep it covered and in a cool, dry place.

*Portions of this were sourced from BBC Good Food. For more information, go to http://www.bbcgoodfood.com/glossary/duck.

Seared Duck Breast in a Blueberry Port Sauce

Ingredients:

1 pint Maine blueberries

1 cup veal stock

1 cup port wine

1/2 bunch thyme

1/2 shallot

1 duck breast

Directions: Preheat the oven to 400F.

Mix the blueberries, veal stock, port wine, thyme and shallot together in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer until it reduces by half.

Score the duck breast, then pan-sear it skin-side-down for about four minutes. To finish it off, roast the duck for breast six minutes, until medium rare.

Pour the reduction over the duck and enjoy.

Photos courtesy of paulsrobinsonphotography.com

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Written by Tom Verde Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Part II: Interview with Culinary Student Joan Mary Jablonoski

M

Cooking up a Career

ake no mistake: earning a degree in the culinary arts and sci-ences is as demanding any B.A. or B.S., if not more so. (How many col-lege freshman gather for their first class of the day in a meat locker?) There are exams, labs, late night cramming, and internships. And its not all about making the per-fect radish rose: culinary students study a broad range of subjects from anatomy, biology, and psychology to business, literature, and histo-ry. Some go on to become chefs, while others chose careers in nutri-tion, education, sports training, or business.

In the second of our series on the life of a culinary student, we asked 22 year-old Joan Mary Jablonoski a graduating senior from Johnson & Wales Universitys Culinary Arts program in Providence, Rhode Island about her love of food and her decision to pursue a Bachelor of Science degree in Culinary Nutrition, the first such program in the country. Jablonoski grew up in New Jersey, a middle child in a family of eight chil-dren, which included two (!) sets of twins.


Culinary student Joan Mary Jablonoski

(Dinner at the Jablonoski house, as she recalled, was feeding time at the zoo.) Meals were basic Irish (meat and pota-toes), Italian, and Polish (her grandfa-thers pierogis remain unmatched). Yet at an early age, she knew she was des-tined for a culinary career.

J: Ive always been a foodie. I started helping my mom in the kitchen when I was old enough to hold a knife and not cut myself 7 or 8 years old. While other kids were watching Nickelodeon and Disney Channel, I was glued to the Food Network. I loved being in the kitchen. If I could have, I would have put my bed in there.

FNE: And so when did you seriously consider food as a career and what made you chose Johnson & Wales?

J: I had an uncle who used to come to Rhode Island on business and he first told me about Johnson & Wales when I was in the third grade. By fifth grade, I made my dad a spreadsheet, with the tuition costs and everything, on how I needed to go there. He showed it to me when I left for RI in 2010 to start school.

FNE: Talk about those first couple of years.

J: We have trimesters, with one aca-demic trimester, with math, science, writing the usual core courses. The other trimesters are labs, where you

work in the kitchen. Freshman year, you learn a lot of the fundamentals: the different cuts of meat, how to butcher an animal, the flavors, the seasonings, and you have to follow recipes. Sopho-more year, you use recipes as a guide, but are encouraged to experiment on your own to suit your tastes.

FNE: What steered you to-wards the Culinary Nutrition program?

J: I knew I wanted to get a bachelors

degree instead of just doing a two year associates and becoming a chef. I wanted something more to fall back on. You have to take Nutrition 101 as a core course, and thats where I first began to understand what nutrition was, how it was a lifestyle, and how you could take these awesome dishes, like an alfredo sauce, and completely change them using a third of the fat, but still have them taste the same.



FNE: Describe the curriculum.J: Its pretty comprehensive. We

study dietetics, food science; we learn about different cuisines, like the veg-etarian cuisine. Other dieticians I have met cant believe all the different cours-es involved.

FNE: Was it challenging?J: Oh my gosh, you do a complete

180 from doing what you love, cooking in the kitchen in the labs during your first two years, to taking classes in organic chemistry, biochemistry, microbiology, anatomy and physiology. You have lab reports to write up and youre looking at medical notes. For every hour I spent in class, I spent three to four hours out-side of class doing the work.

FNE: How about the hands-on expe-rience?

J: You have to do an internship, and I think I really hit the internship lottery with mine. I am working at the Miriam Hospitals Cardiac Rehab Center [in Providence] where I am doing fifty-per-cent cooking and fifty-percent nutrition

counseling, which is exactly what I want to do in my career.

FNE: So whats your plan after gradu-ation?

J: The thing thats tricky with Culinary Nutrition is a lot of people either go the registered dietician route and work in hospitals, or into culinary jobs, where you are on a line. I am kind of forging my own path and want to be a chef who has a nutrition degree and can teach

people. My goal in life is to be my own boss. Even if I just end up teaching, I will use my degree everyday, cooking healthy food for myself. Ill always have that knowledge.

NEXT ISSUE . . . we speak with a recent Johnson & Wales graduate who sky-rocketed to an executive chef position at a luxury, seaside Rhode Island inn.

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Enjoy the Moment

Hot Pot Bliss! New Englands latest and greatest Eastern influence is Chaun Shabu. A fabulous new concept brought to you by the owners of Worcesters Baba Sushi, Chaun Shabu specializes in Chinese and Japanese Hot Pot authenticity thats more than 1,000 years old!

Chaun Shabus creators have tirelessly visited the origin of Hot Pot cuisine to bring you the most delicious and healthy recipes, prepared right at your table in a most entertaining fashion! Chaun Shabu also specializes in traditional, authentic Szechuan food.

Join us at Chaun Shabu for an experience that will bring you back for more!

Chaun Shabu True Hot Pot Greatness.

Chuan Shabu Restaurant301 Park Avenue

Worcester, MA 01609508.762.9213

Sunday: 12:00 pm - 10:30pm Monday - Thursday: 11:30 am - 11:00pm

Friday: 11:30am - 12:30am Saturday: 12:00pm - 12:30am


History of ...

Jodie Lynn Boduch, owner of

Much Ado Marketing, serves as

Social Media Director and Staff

Writer for the Foodies team.

Shes an adventurous explorer of

the culinary landscape and enjoys

writing about food. Educated in

both business and history, she has

big plans to put the latter to good

use for this column.

Written by Jodie Lynn Boduch



If youd like to get up close and personal with juniper berries,

head to a gin mill.

Juniper BerriesNo, really. This isnt a slangy directive to head to a bar (intentional pun

notwithstanding). Gin is made from juniper berries, and the name itself is a linguistic derivative of juniper (i.e., genivre, ginepro, and jenever mean juniper in French, Italian, and Dutch, respectively). Yet theres a lot more to juniper berries than playing nice with neutral spirits for the sake of an Aviation cocktail.

Juniper berries taste like Christmas. They arent used in holiday cooking per se, but juniper trees are often called upon to do Christmas tree duties. Potent, piney, and bearing a crisp hint of citrus, juniper berriescocktail party trivia alertarent actually berries. They are purple or dark blue female seed cones that look and taste like berries. (Fruit is one of the themes in this issuesee what I did there?) Native to Europe and now plentiful in North America, juniper berries take two to three years to ripen. Connoisseurs say the best juniper berries come from Macedonia and Albania.

Use Them in Wild Game DishesAfter all that time spent on a tree waiting to ripen, youd think juniper berries would be the epitome of patience in the spice world. Alas, the essential oil that gives them their distinct flavor profile begins to deteriorate as soon as the berries are picked. Lengthy storage will yield tasteless berries, and its best to wait until just before use to crush or ground them in order to preserve flavor.

Similar to clove, a little goes a long way. Juniper berries often make a guest appearance in sauerbraten and stews, but wild game dishes are where theyre an essential cast member, where their pungent flavor balances out gaminess. Native Americans in the Pacific Northwest used them in buffalo dishes, and Europeans and Americans use them in stuffing and as an accent to venison,



duck, and wild boar dishes. For sweets, juniper berriessay, in the form of a glazego well with gingerbread.

Or to Perk Up Your SystemJuniper berries, often used medicinally as a digestive cleanse, give your kidneys a wake-up call. And I mean straight-up juniper, not even gin. The active ingredient in juniper is a di-uretic and stimulates urinary passages, which makes kidneys work overtime. This is a good thing for properly-working kid-neys and may aid in preventing urinary tract infections, but it would be very problematic for those with serious kidney or bladder problems. Pregnant women should also stay away from juniper berries, as they could stimulate contractions.

The antiseptic quality of juniper has made it both historically popular as a purifier of air (burning branches) and wounds (applying a poultice) alike. Its also used topically to relieve coughs and lung congestion and to aid with skin conditions like psoriasis.

Or to Keep Out a WitchIf wild game doesnt appeal to you and you are all set with herbal medicine, then at least consider letting juniper berries help out with your Witch Prevention Program (This may come in handy on Halloween). Juniper is associated with protec-tion. Per Rodales Illustrated Encyclopedia of Herbs, Legend

has it that juniper planted beside the front door will keep out witches; the only way for a witch to get past the plant was by correctly counting its needles. In addition, Tibetans believe juniper incense expels demons, and the Scottish tradition employs it in warding off the evil eye.

A witch and a demon walk into a bar, and writers every-where rejoice at the possibilities for gin and tonic, chartreuse smash, and corpse reviver #2 jokes.

A little taste of Italy, here in New England!

Our authentic Neo-Neapolitan cuisine is made using

only the freshest ingredients. Our pizza is baked in a

brick oven and the high temperature produces a thin

crust that is cooked to perfection.

135 Westboro Road North Grafton, MA 01536 508.839.4900 www.anziosbrickovenpizza.com


Spencer Trappist Ale Americas first and only Trappist Brew Written by Matt Jones Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault


Amongst the most challenging beers in the world to brew are Belgian Trappist ales. This style of brewing

takes passion, virtue and the dedica-tion of a holy quest. Even finding a consistent source for commercially available Trappist ale can be, at times, a trial.

But, perhaps that search just got a little easier.

Out of the way, hidden in Spencer, Massachusetts is the nearly medi-eval monastic enclave of St. Josephs Abbey. For decades, the Abbey has been known for its excellent seasonal fruit preserves, but in early 2014 it released the first and only American-made Trappist Ale.


From Abbey to Trappist BreweryA holy community of dedicated brothers, this magical place is not a destination for visitors. Sadly, its generally closed to the public, but I was fortunate to be invited on a full tour of the modern brewery and to speak with Fr. Isaac Keeley, the brewery director.

Warm, welcoming and enthusiastic about the brewery proj-ect, Brother Isaacs eyes sparkled as he discussed the path the Abbey took, and how the ale came to be. Initially, a single brother expressed an interest in brewing; several Trappist monasteries in Europe brew fine ales (NOTE ON ST. BEN?). As monastic tradition dictates, the monks put it to a vote. The result was the decision to brew a Belgian ale that they could enjoy communally, as well as share with the world.

They spoke with local microbrewers and purveyors of Belgian ales, but soon they were off to Belgium where they consulted with their brothers at Chimay, Westvletern and Ro-chefort. Brother Isaac said it was the Abbey of Sint Sixtus, and the acclaimed Westvleteren ales, that influenced them the most. Beer aficionados in the US will acknowledge that these legendary ales arent always available hereat best, a few cases a year are imported.

After all of their work in Europe, they decided, by an over-whelming majority, to create Americas first Trappist brewery.

Taste TestAt a group tasting prior to visiting the Abbey, without excep-tion, the ale was deemed effervescent, fruity, clean and well rounded with a beautiful head. The taste and the smell sug-gest new honey, orange and coriander, with a hint of birch beer at the back edge. Balancing the sweet delicacy of a Belgian Blonde ale with the round spiciness of a Bavarian Hefeweizen, Spencer Trappist Ale is a triumph of the brewers artistry.

Poured into the correct glasswhich is available to pur-chase from the websitethis ale is subtle and delicious. From the keg, this ale is even more extraordinary with an ad-ditional kiss of hoppiness due to the secondary fermentation.

Traditional ales have four ingredients. The Abbeys ale has water from the local Laurentian water table, North American barley and hops, and one imported ingredient: yeast. Quality of the yeast was one of the brothers greatest concerns. After multiple blind tastings, a strain of yeast was chosen from one of the main Trappist breweries in Belgium; Brother Isaac shyly admitted he couldnt divulge which one.

For now, the brothers produce only one variety of ale with 6.5% alcohol content. However, Brother Isaac mentioned there might be a seasonal 750ml bottling in the works. We can hope for 7% or higher, which would allow for bottle aging.


Until then, fans of the Spencer Brewery will have to enjoy the light, well-balanced signature beer that is amazing by itself, or with food. Paired with soft cheeses, charcuterie, or even a rustic bowl of stew, this beer is heavenly, but the label on the bottle rightly states the ale is best paired with family and friends.

St. Josephs Abbey is located at 167 North Spencer Road, Spencer, MA 01562; the brewery is closed to the public. For more information, to purchase glasses, or to contact the monastery, visit www.spencerbrewery.com.

On the Hunt for Spencer Trappist Ale?

Unlike the preserves, there is no provision to pur-chase the ale directly from the Abbey, as current Massachusetts law dictates distribution and sales are to be handled outside the monastery. However, Spencer Trappist Ale is sold in packs of four at mul-tiple locations in New England, and is even available on tap at a few select locations, such as the Black and White Grille in Spencer.(continued on page 56)


The Tradition Behind Trappist AleTrappist Ale isnt just your average brew. A tradition that began with Catholic Cistercian monasteries in the 1600s, Trappist beer was made and sold to ensure the self-suffi-ciency and sustainability of those very monasteries.

In order protect the name and the very specific meth-od of production, only the International Trappist Associa-tion can recognize and authenticate Trappist brews. The three cardinal rules for certification are:

Products must be produced within the walls of the monastery or in its vicinity.

The monastic community determines the policies and provides the means of production, then entire pro-cess of which must be in accordance with the business practices proper to a monastic way of life.

Profits are primarily intended to provide for the needs of monastic community and for outreach to disadvan-taged communities, groups, and individuals.

Currently, there are six monastery breweries in Bel-gium, two in Holland, one in Austria and now one in Spencer, Massachusetts. Cheers to that.

Brother Isaac Keeley


Gluten Free

Ellen Allard, the Gluten Free Diva,

is an over-the-moon enthusiasti-

cally hip and motivational Certified

Holistic Health Coach who helps

clients banish the bloat and

embrace gluten free lifestyle chang-

es that enable them to fall madly in

love with the food that unequivo-

cally loves them back. A graduate

of the Institute for Integrative Nutri-

tion, Ellen is a recipe developer,

food writer, food photographer and

videographer (www.glutenfreediva.

com/blog/.) She passionately

promotes optimal health through

informed food choices and whole

plant-based foods. She loves all

things food and health and is hap-

py to talk to you about the same!

Written by Ellen AllardGluten Free Divawww.glutenfreediva.com


Pizza Pizzazz !Gluten Free Style

Several years ago, when gluten free landed on our culinary map, The Boyn-ton Restaurant in Worcester was one of the first on the scene to offer custom-ers a gustatory gluten free pizza delight. Since then, theyve been consistent in their pizza offerings and I remain a loyal customer. When I have a hankering for pizza, the Boynton is hands-down the place to go.

During a recent mid-summer visit to The Boynton, as its referred to by locals and those who are in the know, I walked into a packed restaurant and added my name to the waiting list. It was a short wait, and worth it. Like I said, Im a fan. There was no way I was leaving. Id already set my mind and stomach on having the pizza.

While I waited for the pizza, I had one of their 9 gluten free beers. NINE!!!!! I mean, come on folks. Nine gluten free beers. Amazing. In my gluten free world, this restaurant gets rock star status. I decided on the Omission Ale. It did not disappoint. I poured it into an icy cold mug and loved every sip of it. I drank half of it before the pizza arrived and I enjoyed the other half with my pizza. The other GF beers they offer include Redbridge, Greens Quest, Greens Endeavor, Dogfish Tweasonale, Omission Lager, Woodchuck Hard Cider, Ace Perry Cider, and Downeast Cider House.

I ordered the GF House Special pizza which has pepperoni, sausage, ham-burger, onions, peppers, and mushrooms topped with their tomato sauce and three cheese blend. The crust is made from a secret blend of gluten-free flours and starches that is free of peanuts, tree nuts, dairy, and casein. The three-cheese blend has dairy, but you can always elect to omit the cheese and my guess is it would still be delicious.

On another visit this past spring, I ordered the Broccoli, Feta & Onion GF pizza to go and I remember eating it like there was no tomorrowwhich is to say I scarfed it down. It features a white peppercorn pizza sauce topped with broccoli, onion, and crumbled feta along with their three cheese blend with just a hint of garlic and basil. I havent had a chance yet to try the Red Hot Chicken which has a white peppercorn pizza sauce topped with spicy grilled chicken strips and topped with a blend of mozzarella and parmesan cheese. That is definitely next on my list.



Things have changed markedly since my foray into the world of gluten-free restaurant dining. Its been 9 years since I was diagnosed with Celiac and went gluten free. Back then, in the golden olden days, youd never find of-ficial gluten-free choices on a menu, let alone a complete-ly dedicated gluten-free menu. Still, I will caution those of you who must be 100% gluten-free compliant to ask questions of your waitstaff (or even the restaurant or kitch-en manager) before you settle on your gluten free choices. Though, honestly, at The Boynton, you wont need to ask anything. They know what theyre doing. I know with ab-solute certainty that my pizza has been carefully prepared to avoid all contact with gluten. On my most recent visit, I was fortunate enough to speak with one of the head chefs and managers of the restaurant, Jayson Hawley, who ex-plained their procedures when it comes to gluten free and cross contamination. He explained that the majority of the time they spend preparing the gluten-free pizza comes when they completely wash down and sanitize their down-stairs prep kitchen before making the gluten free crusts. I tried convincing him to give me the crust ingredients but even this Gluten Free Diva couldnt get him to divulge their secret.

As far as their gluten-free options, The Boynton only guarantees their pizza and catering. But I recently tried Jaysons Caribbean Seasoned Mahi Mahi with Toasted Coconut Quinoa & Fresh Avocado Salsa and I had no reactions from eating thisand it was mouth-wateringly delicious. I would have it again in a heartbeat.

Head Chef Jayson Hawley


Only available at

Most people in the area knew my Grandfather, Julio Colangelo, he

was the friendly grocer with aquick smile and a warm hello.

However, not as many wereaquainted with the driving force

behind his success, that whirlwind behind his success, that whirlwind of nature was (and still is), My

Grandmother, Nicolette. To knowher is to be influenced by her and be

assured your life will never quite be the same again! When we came

up with this unique and un-common sauce for Porco (Italian common sauce for Porco (Italian

for pork), we knew just like Grandma Nicky, it would not be for everyone, but if it is... count yourself among the fortunate!

IntroducingGrandma Nickys

PIG SAUCE

Julios Liquors140 Turnpike Road, Rt. 9EWestborough Shopping Center

Westborough, MA 01581508.366.1942

www.JuliosLiquors.com

If youre looking for someone to cater your event, whether you want the entire menu to be gluten free, or you want the regular menu to also include choices for some of your guests who are gluten free, Jayson is your man. I hired him several years ago to cater a bridal show-er at my house. It totally met my expectations. The food was sensational and the staff was professional. He can do anything from a simple drop-off to a pig roast or a for-mal sit down wedding. His menu is vast and everything Ive eaten that he has prepared has been top-notch and delicious.

I only have two requests of The Boynton. Id like to see them offer their pizza with dairy-free cheese. Daiya would be my choice. It melts and tastes delicious. This would satisfy many who are gluten free and cant have cheese. And for those who are vegan, they could then order the Broccoli, Feta & Onion pizza without the feta and topped with the Daiya cheese. Personally, Id like to also see them offer a GF pizza that included tempeh bacon. Just sayin.

The Boynton gets high marks from me. They were early players in the game and have continued to offer the gluten-free community an extremely high quality, delicious pizza. When you visit, ask for Jayson and tell him the Gluten Free Diva says hello!


Glass Fruit Written by Honee Hess


Creating fruit at 2200 degrees

tephanie Chubbuck working on her monumental cherries, peaches and pears resembles a great chef in the kitchen: she is careful, skillful, and pays meticulous attention to detail in such a way that she

makes her craft look easy.

S Artist Stephanie Chubbuck


Schooled at the Massachusetts Col-lege of Art and now residing in Princ-eton, MA, Stephanie has been creating a body of work that she dubs figurative fruit while she served as an Artist-in-Residence at the Worcester Center for Crafts in Worcester, MA.

A visit with her at the Crafts Centers New Street Glass Studio is at once con-frontational, funny, quixotic, and plea-surableand it is about fruit. Stepha-nie calls her fruit, saucy, humorous, and sometimes even erotic! Each fruit is fashioned with an enclosure device, most notably a zipper. The zipper leads the viewer to sense a fullness of energy and fecundity that needs something to keep it from exploding. In artistic terms, her work borrows its sensibility from surrealism with a generous pinch of 17th century Dutch still life. And, like the chef in the kitchen, Stephanie works with the best ingredients in a well-equipped kitchenthe Worces-ter Center for the Crafts 8,000 square foot glass blowing studio.

The red glass is really special, she said in an interview. It comes from a reduction of gold in the powdered pig-ment I use. We add the pigment in layers. She first produces the fruit in blown glass in the 2200 degree glass furnace and then works with it in its cold

state, away from the furnace, to achieve the cuts.

She uses diamond rotary tools and a dental drill for the cuts. By visually combining the organic [the fruit] with the imposed [the zippers], the soft and the hard, the natural with the commercial, said Stephanie, a conceptual transfor-mation takes place. Just like the chef in the kitchen.

For more information on Stephanie Chubbucks work contact her at [email protected]. The New Street Glass Studio of the Worcester Center for Crafts is lo-cated at 35 B New Street, Worcester, 508.757.1424. For more information about the Artist-in-Residence Program or classes at WCC, see www.worcester-craftcenter.org.

Written by Peggy BridgesPhotography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Hunt Road Berry FarmA labor of love


Nestled in the picturesque rolling hills of West Brookfield in central Massachusetts lies a little gem called the Hunt Road Berry Farm. It is a place for so much more than berries, although the berries are a treat for the taste buds. From the narrow country road on which the farm sits, peach trees can be seen lining the driveway, several neatly planted gardens hold an abundance of tender vegetables, and the entire slope leading away from the farmhouse is covered with carefully cultivated berries under the protection of a walk-in netting structure.


If not for this covering, the seven deli-cious varieties of blueberries as well as raspberries, black raspberries, and blackberries would be lost to the birds who can be heard chirping hap-pily in the nearby trees.

From seeding to weeding, the small, family-run operation uses a truly hands-on approach to farming. They use primarily organic practices and specialize in high-quality pro-duce, which they sell at their farm stand, at local weekly farmers mar-kets in West Brookfield and Brimfield, and to local restaurants. The focus is on the care, color, and taste of the food. Owner Jim DiMaio likes to pick his vegetables in the early stages when they are sweet and tenderand thats why the areas upscale restaurants buy his produce. The beautiful fruits and vegetables from Hunt Road Berry Farm have a reputa-tion throughout the region for having exceptionally rich flavors and vibrant colors.

DiMaio decided to farm because, quite simply, he sincerely loves farm-ing. ,His perspective of work and liv-ing is this: You should do something you enjoy. A conversation with Jim makes it clear that he enjoys his life as a farmer. Having started out as a forester, he has enjoyed working with nature and the outdoors since he was eight years old. He considers himself fortunate to have had a mother who was a strong supporter of his love for the outdoors. Now, many years later, he is able to earn his living do-ing what brings him true fulfillment. What better example is there of success?

Hunt Road Berry Farm 96 Hunt Road West Brookfield, MA 01585 508.867.0508 www.huntroadberryfarm.com


Owner Jim DiMaio

From seeding to weeding, the small, family-run operation uses a truly hands-on approach to farming.


Pasta (and Life): 101

Chef Christopher Rovezzi started in

the restaurant business at age 11

washing pots and pans at his dads

restaurant in Worcester, MA.

When his dad closed the doors to

the original Rovezzis Restaurant it

forced Chris out into the culinary

world to continue his training. He

attributes much of his success to

the 3 years he spent under Chef

Tommaso Garguillo.

Chris re-opened Rovezzis in 2002 in

Sturbridge, MA and has happily pro-

vided the community with his take

on Italian and Medditeranean cuisine

ever since. Chris is a two time winner

of Worcesters Best Chef competi-

tion and also Iron Chef Champion

of 2012. Known for lusty, hearty

dishes that are simply prepared, his

focus lately has been artisinal hand

made pastas.

So much tension and drama surround the culinary world lately. Perhaps its due to the oh-so-ridiculously scripted reality television cooking shows. Per-haps its due to the tremendous pressure placed on chefs to be innovative and cutting edge and to separate themselves as the next out-of-the-box and ahead-of-the-curve gastronomical genius. Or maybe its because so many mothers-in-law instill the fear of God into their daughters-in-law when hand-ing over the 100-year-old family recipe for pot roast that the young lady will be expected to execute perfectly and present to her husband with a constant nagging reminder that its almost as good as mom used to make. Whatever the reasons, one of my ongoing goals as a professional chef is to remove the tension and fear that surrounds the art of cooking.

Just play is a phrase I am constantly telling folks who attend my pasta-making class. Yes...contrary to what millions of moms and dads have drilled into the heads of millions of kids at the family table, I encourage the students to play with their food!

Heres the thing: With pasta, the raw ingredients are inexpensive (just eggs and flour in most cases). So the worst thing that can happen is you throw it away and start againor, in my familys case, our Golden Retriever Callie gets an extra treat.

Ill give you a simple example of how to play and have fun with pasta. A deep fried angel hair nest dusted with sugar is not only fast and easy, its a great example of how pasta can be used in a nontraditional way. Instead of a recipe in this issue, Im suggesting more of a procedure for you to play with. Try it...tweak it... Make it your own. One way to use it is to add crispy texture to a bor-ing dish of ice cream.

For this, youll need a package of dried pasta from the supermarket. Although Ive used angel hair nests, you can experiment with different shapesjust re-member that for this thinner is better. You will also need a table top deep fryer or deep pan with hot oil as a makeshift fryer. The last thing is powdered sugar. You can also add cinnamon, nutmeg, or brown sugar.

Holding one of the pasta nests with kitchen tongs, submerge the pasta in the oil, holding it below the surface until it turns dark brown. Remove from oil and place on paper towels. While still hot, dust the pasta with powdered sugar or whatever sweetener you like. THATS IT! You have just created a crispy, sweet garnish that can be used in any number of applications. If youre like me, youll end up eating it by itself. Its a great snack on its own.

And remember, its not rocket science...its just food. Have a little fun!

Written by Christopher Rovezzi


Play With Your Food (No, Really)



One Stop Shop:

The Canal District Farmers Market Written by Stacy Horowitz


What goes into making a farmers market among the best in the state, you ask? The answer lies in the Canal District Farmers Market in Worcester,

Massachusetts. With fresh produce year-round (including Saturdays), the market is housed in the ever-popular Crompton Collection space

where there is something for the entire family.

For starters, this farmers market goes beyond the usual vegetables, breads, and cheese bit. Looking for something different? Try your hand at the

exotic alpaca wool/yarn, homemade soaps, childrens clothing and acces-sories, jewelry, stationery, candles, and of course, the alpacas themselves.

BEST in FARMERS MARKETS


Everyone always loves it when the alpacas from Plain View Alpacas are at the market, said Katelin Kilgallon, Co-ordinator for the Canal District Farmers Market.

The fun doesnt stop at the alpacasWe have a few food trucks that come

to our market: Wooberry, which is a fro-zen yogurt truck; the Dogfather, a hot dog truck; and Chanterelle To Go, which is a farm-to-table truck. All trucks are lo-cally- based and many use our ingredi-ents from the market or local sources.

On a more traditional level, made-in-Massachusetts berry and cranberry jams take center stage along with the locally-made honey, maple syrup, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, Italian ices, and specialty teas.

Whats the most sought-after item in a market this diverse?Kale is huge now, Kilgallon adds. We always have lots

of it in the fall at the market. Your traditional fall vegetables and fruits are also a huge hit, such as butternut and hubbard squash, apples, fresh cider, and even sugar pumpkins. We also have an excellent microgreen vendor, First Leaves Family Farm, which grows nutritious microgreens to provide you with fresh flavor in a salad, on a protein, or in a green smoothie.

You might think there is an entire staff running the behind-the-scenes of our award-winning pick. Although there are no full-time employees at the marketplace, there are interns and volunteers. Kilgallon manages the retail operations part and

Amy Lynn Chase manages the marketing. Chase is also the owner of the very popular adjacent boutique marketplace, Crompton Collective.

What goes on behind the scenes of a busy farmers market?

I coordinate all the vendors week to week; now we have quite the waiting list for them, said Kilgallon. We do seek out specialty ones if we find something is missing from the market and try to give opportunities for new emerging farms and businesses to get their start We often ask our custom-ers what they want to see, and if we can bring in a vendor to meet their requests, we will. Kilgallon adds she also im-plemented certification so that the market could accept WIC and Senior Coupons.


Some of the vendors provide shares for city dwellers; a fish share via Bay State Fish and a local flower share are weekly favorites. Setting up a market of this size involves having every category of food represented, Kilgallon explains..

I try to keep our market so that one type of good isnt overwhelming. For example, if you have 8 bread vendors, no one will sell anything I regulate how many of each kind of vendor we have, and if theres more of a demand Ill ask a vendor to up their production for the market or seek out an additional vendor.

Since this is Foodies, no interview would be complete without a few farm-ers market dinner suggestions.

Ive made a great panzanella salad with steak for one meal and a grilled red fish with grilled asparagus, tomatoes, and bread for another. While Im enjoy-ing my dinner, I like to have a nice glass of wine that I bought from the market from a local winemaker, Zoll Cellars, said Kilgallon. Of course, its a great place to get breakfast goods, too. In-cluding milknew vendor Stillmans Dairy offers eggnog and flavored milk.

Worried about entertaining the kids while at the market? There is weekly music as well as the occasional chil-drens face painter, horse and wagon tours, tarot card readings, and chair massages. An inside and outside cof-fee lounge is also available for all tired adults.

For all of you amateur farmers mar-kets foodiesstart with buying produce first, since it is the quickest selling item at the Canal District Farmers Market.

Consider this your one stop- shoppingShangri-La!

* All vendors accept cash; most of the vendors accept debit and credit cards as well.


Rutlands Super Market

Vermont Farmers Market Written by Briana Palma


Fifty-two weeks a year, people in Rutland, VT have the opportunity to shop at a true super market. There are no metal shelves stacked high

with big, brand names, but instead, lots of friendly, familiar faces selling homegrown produce and homemade foods.

Established more than two decades ago, the Vermont Farmers Market has become a fixture in the city of Rutland. It operates throughout the year the first market in the state to do so with 100 vendors filling Depot

Park each Saturday during the warm season and a whole host more on a waiting list to join the organization.

BEST in FARMERS MARKETS


A smaller market also takes place on Tuesday afternoons and in the winter: upwards of 70 vendors continue trad-ing weekly at a dedicated space on nearby West Street.

The market, arguably one

foodies of new england winter 2015

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