from ancient egypt to the 20 th century: fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their...

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From Ancient Egypt to the 20 From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th th Century: Century: Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories. times and their stories. Jewelry: A Mirror of Jewelry: A Mirror of its Times” its Times”

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Page 1: From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories. From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen

From Ancient Egypt to the 20From Ancient Egypt to the 20thth Century: Century:Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories.their stories.

From Ancient Egypt to the 20From Ancient Egypt to the 20thth Century: Century:Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories.their stories.

““Jewelry: A Mirror of its Jewelry: A Mirror of its Times”Times”

““Jewelry: A Mirror of its Jewelry: A Mirror of its Times”Times”

Page 2: From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories. From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen

-- An introductory -- An introductory tour d’horizon tour d’horizon of jewelry of jewelry through the ages bythrough the ages by exploring the ways in which jewelry conveys exploring the ways in which jewelry conveys messages about messages about the wearer, such as “I’m powerful,” “I’m the wearer, such as “I’m powerful,” “I’m loved,” “I’m holy,” loved,” “I’m holy,” “ “I’m safe from evil,” or “I’m rich.” I’m safe from evil,” or “I’m rich.” -- Each of these themes is illustrated by slides of -- Each of these themes is illustrated by slides of jewelry from jewelry from ancient times to the present day. ancient times to the present day.

-- An introductory -- An introductory tour d’horizon tour d’horizon of jewelry of jewelry through the ages bythrough the ages by exploring the ways in which jewelry conveys exploring the ways in which jewelry conveys messages about messages about the wearer, such as “I’m powerful,” “I’m the wearer, such as “I’m powerful,” “I’m loved,” “I’m holy,” loved,” “I’m holy,” “ “I’m safe from evil,” or “I’m rich.” I’m safe from evil,” or “I’m rich.” -- Each of these themes is illustrated by slides of -- Each of these themes is illustrated by slides of jewelry from jewelry from ancient times to the present day. ancient times to the present day.

Page 3: From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories. From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen

-- From Pharaonic Egypt down to Roman times when Rome -- From Pharaonic Egypt down to Roman times when Rome becamebecame the ruler of the Mediterranean and Egypt became a Roman the ruler of the Mediterranean and Egypt became a Roman province.province.-- Three thousand years of political turbulence -- coupled with -- Three thousand years of political turbulence -- coupled with astonishing astonishing artistic stability -- produced magnificent jewelry that speaks artistic stability -- produced magnificent jewelry that speaks to us to this day. to us to this day.

-- From Pharaonic Egypt down to Roman times when Rome -- From Pharaonic Egypt down to Roman times when Rome becamebecame the ruler of the Mediterranean and Egypt became a Roman the ruler of the Mediterranean and Egypt became a Roman province.province.-- Three thousand years of political turbulence -- coupled with -- Three thousand years of political turbulence -- coupled with astonishing astonishing artistic stability -- produced magnificent jewelry that speaks artistic stability -- produced magnificent jewelry that speaks to us to this day. to us to this day.

2000 B.C. - 200 B.C.: The Egyptians. 2000 B.C. - 200 B.C.: The Egyptians.

Page 4: From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories. From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen

The splendors of ancient Mediterranean jewelry:The splendors of ancient Mediterranean jewelry: - The enduring elegance of Greece- The enduring elegance of Greece - The vigor of the Scythians north of the Black - The vigor of the Scythians north of the Black SeaSea - The mastery of the Etruscans of the Italian - The mastery of the Etruscans of the Italian peninsulapeninsula - The wealth of Imperial Rome- The wealth of Imperial Rome

Page 5: From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories. From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen

-- The vigorous, beautiful jewelry made in the new barbarian kingdoms that succeeded to the power of the Western Roman Empire as Rome gradually morphed into the earliest beginnings of modern Europe.

Page 6: From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories. From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen

-- The glories of Byzantium, founded in 324 A.D. by Constantine the Great as the New Rome, and which remained the gold standard for wealth and splendor for more than a millennium until finally falling to the Turks in 1453.

Page 7: From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories. From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen

-- The 16-- The 16thth Century Renaissance in which the Century Renaissance in which the goldsmith-sculptor reigned supreme, creating tiny goldsmith-sculptor reigned supreme, creating tiny

masterpieces in gold, enamel and gems, and fantastical masterpieces in gold, enamel and gems, and fantastical creations inspired by large, oddly shaped baroque creations inspired by large, oddly shaped baroque

pearls. pearls.

-- The 16-- The 16thth Century Renaissance in which the Century Renaissance in which the goldsmith-sculptor reigned supreme, creating tiny goldsmith-sculptor reigned supreme, creating tiny

masterpieces in gold, enamel and gems, and fantastical masterpieces in gold, enamel and gems, and fantastical creations inspired by large, oddly shaped baroque creations inspired by large, oddly shaped baroque

pearls. pearls.

Page 8: From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories. From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen

-- Significant advances in the art of cutting diamonds produce radical changes in jewelry design.

-- One result is the appearance of exquisite jewels featuring the new, lovely rose cut diamond.

Page 9: From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories. From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen

-- The story of history’s greatest heist: how from September 11th to the 16th, 1792, the French Crown Jewels were stolen from the Garde Meuble over a succession of nights, while the authorities remained utterly – and almost determinedly – oblivious to what was going on.

-- The masterpieces of elegance produced by the 18th century esthetic which emphasized lightness, airiness and delicacy.-- The famous tale of the Queen’s Necklace, one of the 18th century’s greatest scandals – and probably also one of its greatest libels.

Page 10: From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories. From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen

-- The marvels produced by the great Romantic revival that swept both literature and the fine and decorative arts after Napoleon’s fall, notably the beautiful jewels made by the great French Romantic jewelers such as François-Desiré Froment-Meurice.

-- The pomp and splendor of the French First Empire and its obsession with classical themes and motifs.

Page 11: From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories. From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen

- The French Third Republic’s decision (driven by its fears of a - The French Third Republic’s decision (driven by its fears of a monarchical restoration) to auction off the glorious French monarchical restoration) to auction off the glorious French Crown Diamonds in 1887 and how the bulk of these great jewels Crown Diamonds in 1887 and how the bulk of these great jewels ended up in the U.S. after Tiffany’s won a third of them at the ended up in the U.S. after Tiffany’s won a third of them at the auction and rapidly sold them to its super-rich American auction and rapidly sold them to its super-rich American clientele.clientele.

- The plethora of late - The plethora of late 19th century revivalist 19th century revivalist styles, from styles, from Archeological to Archeological to Renaissance, powered by Renaissance, powered by a widening market a widening market growing rich from an growing rich from an expanding economy and expanding economy and constantly looking for constantly looking for something new.something new.

Page 12: From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories. From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen

- The brief period from about - The brief period from about 1890 to roughly 1910 in which 1890 to roughly 1910 in which Lalique revolutionized jewelry Lalique revolutionized jewelry design and made Art Nouveau design and made Art Nouveau jewelry a worldwide rage – even if jewelry a worldwide rage – even if a short-lived one. a short-lived one.

- The brief period from about - The brief period from about 1890 to roughly 1910 in which 1890 to roughly 1910 in which Lalique revolutionized jewelry Lalique revolutionized jewelry design and made Art Nouveau design and made Art Nouveau jewelry a worldwide rage – even if jewelry a worldwide rage – even if a short-lived one. a short-lived one.

Page 13: From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories. From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen

-- Meanwhile, Lalique’s contemporary Fabergé in Russia was making jewelry and objets d’art that looked far more to the past, but whose appeal has endured to the present day, even to the point of fueling a thriving “Fauxbergé” industry.

Page 14: From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories. From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen

-- The great watershed of World War I and the explosion of the Art Deco style onto the worldwide scene with the Exposition des Art Décoratifs in Paris in 1925. -- How the headlong creation of new materials and technologies in the wake of the war both inspired and made possible the striking new departures in color, motifs and materials of Art Deco jewels.

Page 15: From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen hours of dazzling jewels, their times and their stories. From Ancient Egypt to the 20 th Century: Fourteen

-- At first only attempting to imitate “fine” -- At first only attempting to imitate “fine” jewelry, costume jewelry developed into a jewelry, costume jewelry developed into a genuine – and in time, predominantly genuine – and in time, predominantly American – art form during the interwar American – art form during the interwar period and after World War II. period and after World War II.