gastro magazine winter 2015

THE MAGAZINE FROM THE AWARD WINNING PUB AND RESTAURANT GROUP

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Set sail with P&O Cruises for an epicurean escape at seaPAGE 54

Why street food is starting a kitchen revolution in the UKPAGE 49

The WI celebrates 100 years ghting the good grub ght PAGE 71

Maritime meals

GOURMETGUERRILLAS

CENTENARYCUISINE

How the TV cook has put a fresh spin on healthy eatingHow the TV cook has put a fresh spin on healthy eating

LORRAINE PASCALE

We meet...

TENtop celeb chefs in Kent, Sussex & Surrey PAGE 81

INTRODUCING

THE MAGAZINE FROM THE AWARD WINNING PUB AND RESTAURANT GROUP

GASTROGASTROGASTROGASTROGASTROGASTRO

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Season's Greetings from Rencraft

Designers and makers of handmade kitchens

Please call for a brochure or visit our showrooms

Unit 9, Chart Farm, Seal Chart Sevenoaks, Kent TN 15 OES Tel 01732 762682

81 Calverley Road Tunbridge Wells, KentTNl 2UY Tel: 01892 520730 www.rencraft.co.uk

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GASTROWELCOME

Whatll it be, then?W owwhere have the last three months gone! Weve had an exciting and busy time lately; weve nished

all the beer and music festivals for the year and we had the grand opening of our eighth site, The Blue Ball in Walton-on-the-Hill, Surrey.

The pub looks amazing, and youd never believe it had been closed for over two years. It has put us through our paces since the doors opened! Clearly, the great and the good of Walton-on-the-Hill have taken the pub back into their hearts. Thank you all for your support.

Also, you have to watch this space, as we have our eye on another site ngers crossed well be telling all in the New Year. We have lots of pictures of The Blue Ball on page 32, while our new manager is featured in this edition as well, talking about his favourite dish, moules and frites.

Despite the weather being very wet, it hasnt dampened our spirits through the summer months. Our new smokehouse is producing some mouth-watering dishes and has proven a real success and great addition to the menu at The Little Brown Jug. The chefs are also sending out some cracking smoked foods to the sister pubs, so all can share the goodies on o er.

We interview the gorgeous model and TV cook Lorraine Pascale (dont tell Mrs W&H, but I do fancy her!) about some of her favourite dishes, and also my other food heroes, the wonderful ladies of the WI. We have some great features for this edition, including some essential cooking tips on page 58, what wines to pair with what dishes over the festive period and some alternative Christmas dishes on page 68.

As Im writing this, the sun is shining and theres a clear blue sky for once, but I have to mention Christmas! Get in early for Christmas and New Year parties and check out our set menus online Im

sure there will be plenty of dishes to take your fancy. And dont forget Burns Night in January, a great evening to lift your sprits after the post-Christmas blues.

If youre uber organised and already thinking of what to buy your loved ones, we have a feature in the magazine that may helpor, of course, you can always treat them with one of our W&H gift cards.

I hope you enjoy our winter edition of Gastro. Im o to the pub!

Cheers,Brian Keeley Whiting MD

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49 BRITISH STREETFOODRevolutions in the air all over the United Kingdom

43 LONG MAN BREWERYLocal boys are making good beer in the heart of Sussex

20 LORRAINE PASCALEThis TV cook is putting her own twist on healthy eating

09 FRONT OF HOUSECatch up on all the latest updatesand news stories

10 DISCOVER W&HIntroducing our award-winning pubs and restaurants.

14 FOOD FOR THOUGHTThe seasons best culinary products and experiences

17 W&H EVENTSKey dates to remember over the coming months

27 MEET THE YOUNG GUNSSay hello to the apprentices who are cooking up a storm

32 SOCIAL SNAPSHOTSThe great and the good turn up for our latest pub launch

58 W&H COOKING GUIDETricks and techniques that will help you in your kitchen

60 FLAVOURS OF THE MONTHSFresh tips and produce for you to savour this winter

63 WINE PAIRINGSFind out the best ways to create heavenly matches

40 MY FAVOURITE DISHTry your hand at this top pick from the W&H menu

47 FOODIE FACTSHEETTantalising trivia to see you through the festive season

68 GASTRO AT HOMEHeres a di erent spin on a traditional Christmas lunch

54 MARITIME MEALSJoin us on a celebrity food cruise through the Atlantic

unch

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EditorFrederick Latty [email protected]

Design and Production ManagerLee [email protected]

Graphic DesignerEmma [email protected]

Publishing Design ManagerXela [email protected]

Production Co-ordinatorLauren [email protected]

Account ManagerAnna [email protected]

Editorial DirectorRichard [email protected]

Commercial DirectorNick [email protected]

Contributors:Cover image: Myles NewPhil GloverCraig MatthewsSarah BondSam YardleyJason AldenZara PriceJonny GibsonMichael McHughPete Sheppard

ONE MEDIA AND CREATIVE UK LTD16 Lonsdale Gardens,Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN1 1NU01892 779 650 www.one-media.co

Whiting & Hammond Gastro Magazine is owned by Whiting & Hammond Ltd and published/distributed by One Media and Creative UK Ltd. All rights reserved. The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owner or publisher. All prices are correct at the time of going to print. Neither the publisher nor the owner can accept responsibility for any errors or omissions relating to advertising or editorial. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written consent from the publisher. No responsibility is taken for unsolicited materials or the return of these materials whilst in transit.

8686EVERY DAYTOGETHERBrighton couple

ties knot in classic Stanmer

House style 81 LOCAL

CELEBRITY CHEFS

Its not just produce thats well-known where we live

71 RAISING AGENTSWhy the WI is celebrating in style this year

77 FARMERS MARKETSWe explore the delights of some terri c stalls in Lewes

78 YULETIDE MENUSHave yourself a merry little Christmas at a W&H venue

89 TOOLS OF THE TRADEEssential gastronomic apps to help you cook like a pro

92 GOURMET GADGETSPresent ideas for the whole family come December 25

98 CONTACT DETAILSAll the names and numbers youll need to get in touch

The Gastro team

35 WELLS ON A PLATETake a trip to the royal spa town of Tunbridge Wellsunch

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Olivia now thinks the hardest part of making the perfect fondant is taking the perfect photo.

Create absolute fondant perfection every time w ith Lakel and's exclusive Fail-Safe Fondant Dessert Kit. See how easy Olivia found it at lakeland.co.uk/olivia

Your local Tun bridge Wells store 7-9 Monson Road TN I I LS Tel: 0 1892 529 699

LAKELAND online I mobile I in store

WINNING STREAK For the second year in a row, Whiting & Hammond has been named Best Small Group Pubs and Bars Employer in the acclaimed Best Employers in Hospitality Awards 2015. The prestigious industry awards were held at Lancaster London, and the award was collected by MD Brian Whiting and HR assistant Lisa Mordan. The Farm @ Friday Street in Eastbourne was also Highly Commended in the recent Tourism South East Beautiful South Awards for Tourism Pub of the Year.www.bestemployersinhospitality.com

To keep up to date with the latest W&H news, visit www.whitingandhammond.co.ukf Like us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/whitingandhammond t Follow us on Twitter @Whiting_Hammond

BBQ BASH The Little Brown Jug in Chiddingstone Causeway was proud to open up its marvellous new smokehouse this summer, which offered a delicious barbecue menu to visitors in the garden, with delights coming fresh from the smoker.www.thelittlebrownjug.co.uk

BURN, BABY, BURNJanuary 25 sees the annual event of Burns Night brought to life at the Whiting & Hammond pubs across Kent, Sussex and Surrey. Each venue has its own offerings, but you can expect to be entertained by pipers galore, taste some wonderful haggis and traditional Scottish fare and perhaps even get stuck into some whiskey sampling. Contact your nearest pub for further details.www.whitingandhammond.co.uk/events

Our round-up of the latest happenings from the world of

FRONT OF HOUSE

GASTRONEWS

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PRIVATE DININGThe Mark Cross in East Sussex ran an in-house competition for those lling in feedback forms. The lucky winners were Mr and Mrs Lea, who won a dinner for six, cooked in the comfort of their own home by the groups executive chef, James Palmer-Rosser and comprising a delicious six-course tasting menu with wines matched to each course.www.themarkcross.co.uk

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GASTRO OUR PUBS

Introducing our award-winning pubs and restaurants

OUR PUBS

Discover

THE BLUE BALLWalton-on-the-Hill, Surrey

The latest addition to the W&H family is a little further a eld than our usual heartland, but we were keen to spread our wings and expand into Surrey. The Blue Ball was the perfect choice for an eighth pub; having been closed for more than two years, it was in a sad old way, but we couldnt wait to get it up and running once more.

Working closely alongside Star Pubs, we brought the site back to life with an extension, a top-of-the-range kitchen on the rst oor and three magni cent huts in the garden, which are also available at The Little Brown Jug and The Kings Head, for alfresco dining all year around.

A combined budget of 750,000 enabled us to reopen the doors in August 2015, carrying forward the true Whiting & Hammond style and ethos of providing fresh, locally sourced produce and a top selection of ales in the pubs food and drink o ering.

So, what are you waiting for? Book a table, pull up a chair and enjoy some W&H hospitality at The Blue Ball a great place to meet, eat and drink in a relaxed, informal, but well-run setting.

www.theblueball.co.uk www.facebook.com/TheBlueBallTadworth @TheBlueBall_

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Introducing our award-winning pubs and restaurants

THE CHASER INNShipbourne, Kent www.thechaser.co.uk

www.facebook.com/TheChaserInn @thechaserinn

THE LITTLE BROWN JUGChiddingstone Causeway, Kent www.thelittlebrownjug.co.uk www.facebook.com/littlebrown.jug.52 @LittleBrownJug1

THE MARK CROSS INNMark Cross, East Sussex www.themarkcross.co.uk www.facebook.com/TheMarkCross @TheMarkCross

THE FARM @ FRIDAY STREETEastbourne, East Sussex www.farmfridaystreet.com www.facebook.com/farm.fridaystreet @farmfridayst

THE CRICKETERS INNMeopham, Kent www.thecricketersinn.co.uk www.facebook.com/cricketers.inn @Cricketers_Inn

STANMER HOUSEBrighton, East Sussex www.stanmerhouse.co.uk www.facebook.com/StanmerHouse @StanmerHouse

THE KINGS HEADBessels Green, Kent www.kingsheadbesselsgreen.co.uk www.facebook.com/kingsheadbg @Kings_Head_BG

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doNES lJRITAIN creative kitchen solutions

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[email protected] www.jonesbritain.co.uk

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Upper High Street, Heathfield, East Sussex TN21 8NB Tel: 01435 866 435

Kbsa the home specialists asscxiation

iZE!iir:." APPROVED

GASTROGRUB GUIDE

If youve always wanted to experience a wider taste of the UK and Europe, Back-Roads Touring specialises in small groups and tailor-made journeys. Their gastronomic experiences allow you to enjoy authentic, locally sourced cuisine, dine at iconic restaurants and indulge in food and wine tastings with local producers. Winter tours are priced from 965 per person and include Ireland: The Emerald Isle, Austria: A Winter Wonderland and Bavaria and the Romantic Back-Road.www.backroadstouring.com

For a cookery school like no other, why not pay a visit to Four Gables Food Academy? The vibrant foodie hub is nestled in the sleepy countryside of Ashtead, Surrey and set on chef patron David Gillotts smallholding. Here, a high-tech, professional kitchen provides the ideal backdrop for a range of absorbing courses, such as Fabulous Fish, Brilliant Baking and Dinner Party Delights. All courses cost 130 and can be booked at www.fourgablesfoodacademy.com

The aircraft R.A.F MK1 practice cluster bomb is a breath-taking, one-of-a-kind drinks cabi-net. Standing at more than eight feet tall and weighing in at over 600 pounds, this mirror polished gem has a distinctively authentic Deco

aesthetic and is steeped in history. Gleaming aluminium and steel covers a stunningly crafted interior, while the potent fusion of industrial heritage and high-end master craftsmanship makes the 60,500 price tag

worth each and every penny.www.touchedinteriors.co.uk

Six of the best culinary products and experiences to look forward to over the coming months

thoughtThe gear

The courseThe trip

Food for

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Celebrity chef James Martin is back with more than 70 recipes to satisfy your sweet tooth. Sweet is packed with contemporary treats and desserts, from French lemon cake, chocolate tart and baked apple charlotte, to walnut macaroon layer gateau with coffee cream. Whether youre in the mood for a simple bake or a show-stopping nale to your Christmas dinner, this stunning selection is out now and can be yours for 15 from www.waterstones.com

Head to Penshurst Place on Saturday December 5 for a Christmas farmers market that will get you in the festive spirit. Local meats and cheeses will be on offer, as well as decorations for the big day, plus you can order your roasting joints and collect them nearer the time. The market runs from 9.30am to 12pm and is the perfect opportunity to load up on gourmet gifts for the whole family.www.penshurstplace.com

This stylish cutlery wall clock is the ideal item to add the nishing touches to any newly decorated kitchen. Instead of displaying the hours of the day on the clock face, each hour is marked by either a fork or a spoon, while the hour hand is a miniature fork and a knife acts as the minute hand. Priced at 16.99, it looks brilliant and makes a great present for budding chefs. www.thegiftoasis.com

Head to Penshurst Place on Saturday December 5 for a Christmas farmers market that will get you in the festive spirit. Local meats and cheeses will be on offer, as well as decorations for the big day, plus you can order your roasting joints and collect them nearer the time. The market runs from 9.30am to 12pm and is the perfect opportunity to load up on gourmet gifts for the whole family.www.penshurstplace.com

thought

The market

The book

The accessory

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Events by

EVENTdBRITISH SAUSAGE WEEKNovember 2 to 8 O O O O O O O OPHEASANT WEEK November 16 to 22 O O O O ODOGGY BRUNCH SATURDAYNovember 28 OFESTIVE FOREST POPUP CHRISTMAS EXPERIENCENovember 23 to January 3

OCHRISTMAS PARTIESDecember 1 to 24 O O O O O O O OCHRISTMAS DAYDecember 25 O O O O O O O ONEW YEARS EVEDecember 31 O O O O O ONATIONAL SOUP MONTHJanuary 1 to 31 O O O O OFARMHOUSE BREAKFAST WEEKJanuary 24 to 30

O O O O OBURNS NIGHTJanuary 25 O O O O O O O O

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See whats on at a glance at all of our venues

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GASTROEVENTS

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our service continues with a strong focus on customer satisfaction.

Offices are 24 hour operated and deliveries are 6 days a week.

www.iaharris.co.uk Tel: 020 7622 7176 Fax: 020 7622 7687

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GASTRO LORRAINE PASCALE

It takes a dash of courage and a dollop of drive to completely reinvent yourself; particularly when youre posing for Sports Illustrated and brushing shoulders with the likes of Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell in the midst of a ourishing modelling career. But thats exactly what Lorraine Pascale did when she decided to ditch the catwalk glamour of Paris, New York and Milan for the art of gastronomy in London.

Indeed, before becoming the household name she is today, the now 42-year-old celebrity cook rst cut her culinary teeth at Leiths School of Food and Wine and The University of West London. Embarking on a year-long diploma and subsequent degree, she quickly fell in love with food and drink, immersing herself in everything from microbiology, to strategic hospitality management and patisserie.

It was mainly going to Leiths and The University of West London that got me really passionate about it. It was amazing and so much fun learning all that stu . It was great to nally nd something that I really enjoyed doing and that I could carry on doing and get better and better at.

Lorraine was born in Hackney, East London and given up for adoption at birth, when she went into foster care and was raised by adoptive parents Audrey and Roger Woodward in Buckinghamshire. But in spite of a turbulent upbringing, a passion for good food was always at its heart.

My dad is a fantastic cook and makes delicious Italian food. He inspired me to cook and my mum would cook delicious food as well; Ive always eaten a lot and used to be called hollow legs.

Following her foster parents divorce and another stint in the social care system, Lorraine won a charity funded scholarship to a boarding school in North Devon, before leaving home for Australia to begin her modelling career. A further six years living in New York saw her marry Polish musician Count Kaz Balinski-Jundzill, with whom she had her daughter Ella in 1996, before their separation and eventual divorce.

It wasnt long, however, before itchy feet and a desire to be more grounded for her daughter saw Lorraine move back to London with new ambitions and fresh ideas on where to take her career. Dabbling in an eclectic range of vocations in the wake of her runway shows, the TV star rst tried her hand at interior design, car mechanics and hypnosis, before carving her niche in the world of food and drink.

Today, the face of books and series like Baking Made Easy and How to Be a Better Cook is a bestselling author, television personality and all-round champion of healthy eating and living, as demonstrated in her most recent project. Taking favourite recipes and giving them a refreshing, nutritious twist, Eating Well Made Easy provides a snapshot of Lorraines own day-to-day eating

Since breaking out with her debut book and TV series in 2011, former model Lorraine Pascale has become something of a poster girl for healthy eating. We chat exclusively to the celebrity cook about her latest project and why creating delicious dishes from scratch at home neednt be a chore

A MODEL COOK

Lorraine Pascale...

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Photography by Myles New

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habits for readers to try at home.The inspiration behind it is that its

the way I actually eat, so the food I eat every day is what you see in the book. Most of the time you just want a recipe thats going to be quick, reasonably priced and thats going to actually work.

Delectable highlights include peanut butter and banana mu ns, no-cook chocolate espresso cheesecake squares and beetroot risotto with feta cheese and mint, illustrating a wealth of sweet and savoury dishes that are as simple as they are satisfying. But the books real strength lies in its ability to transform everyday foods into truly show stopping meals.

I quite often make the fruit berry tarts with vanilla cashew cream; theyre quite easy and look stunning and really impressive, so theyre great ones to make. I love the leek, aubergine and chickpea tagine

The inspiration behind it is that its the way I actually eat, so the food I eat every day is what you see in the book. Most of the time you just want a recipe thats going to be quick, reasonably priced and thats going to actually work

with cashew nuts and apricots, and have the cinnamon protein pancakes a lot.

Despite her best e orts, though, it would seem that eating well might not be as easy as shed once hoped. As food prices continue to soar, its becoming increasingly di cult for the average Brit to a ord the local, seasonal ingredients required to whip up a wholesome family meal.

Theres a lot of work to do, mainly in price, because to eat healthy can sometimes be very expensive, and its much easier to go and get a bag of crisps


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unfortunately. Local food isnt sustainable in the UK, as we dont have enough space to sustain ourselves.

Nonetheless, Lorraine continues to do her bit to promote a better way of living, eating and nourishing mind, body and soul through keeping t and staying active. Which isnt to say she doesnt have something of a sweet tooth herself, of course; rather than make the move into restaurants, she opened her own patisserie, Ellas Bakehouse (later renamed the Cupcake Bakehouse), in Covent Garden, and has judged hit shows like Holiday Baking Championship in the US.

Elsewhere, her philanthropic activities have seen her draw on her own childhood experiences to become a patron of TACT (The Adolescent and Childrens Trust), which is the UKs largest charity and voluntary agency providing fostering and adoption services. In addition to being made the Governments rst fostering ambassador, she even lmed a documentary, Fostering and Me, for BBC Two, which saw her reunited with her original surrogate parents.

Its really important, especially if youre in the public eye, to give something back, and seeing as my history was fostering and adoption, I thought it was a really good charity to be with. Its a great feeling, as it helps other people and also helps you feel like youre doing something good.

But while cooking shows and books will no doubt remain her bread and butter, Lorraine is also keen to adopt a more DIY approach, joining the social media revolution and broadcasting a range of tutorials and master classes from the comfort of her own desktop. Not only does this ensure she keeps up with the most recent trends, but it also gives her the chance to bring her food instantly and directly to online fans and followers.

Im moving a lot into YouTube at the moment; its real, its current and I think its brilliant. Id like to focus on doing that and bring lots of interesting, current recipes into peoples homes. Im doing a whole series of videos for students, which I lm myself, because my daughters just gone to university, so some tasty recipes for students that are quick and not just pasta!

Well, if her latest book is anything to go by, penniless pupils around the country will soon be doing away with Pot Noodles in favour of far more appetising alternatives. But thats the thing about Lorraine Pascale; shes no stranger to shaking things up and trying something new. All it takes is a dash of courage and a dollop of drive.

Lorraine Pascales Eating Well Made Easy: Deliciously healthy recipes for everyone, every day is available now, priced 20, from HarperCollins. To learn more about Lorraine and try her latest recipes, visit www.lorrainepascale.com



Serves 4

SWEET POTATO, CAVOLO NERO AND ROSEMARY MEATBALL HASH WITH

POACHED EGGS

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Theres no rigid formula to this dish. Its a good recipe guideline to use up whatever you may have in the fridge. The meat can even be omitted altogether and replaced with tempeh or tofu if you fancy a veggie dish, or the sweet potato swapped for regular potato or squash. Spring onions or leeks can take the place of the red onion, while cauli ower, broccoli, cabbage or even shredded Brussels sprouts can easily replace the cavolo nero.

INGREDIENTS4 medium sweet potatoes (about 300g each), cut into bite-sized cubes (skin on or off)1 large red onion, cut into wedges3tbsp olive oil300g sausage meat or turkey or chicken mince6 sage leaves, nely choppedLeaves from 1 sprig of fresh rosemary, nely chopped (about 1tsp)75g cavolo nero or kale, woody stems removed, very nely sliced8 free-range eggs1tbsp white wine vinegarSea salt and freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONSPreheat the oven to 200C (fan 180C), 400F, gas mark 6. Scatter the sweet potato and onion on a

large baking tray. Drizzle over two tablespoons of the oil and season. Roast for 40 minutes, occasionally tossing them about.

Meanwhile, put the meat of your choice in a bowl. Add the herbs, season well and mix everything together until well combined. With clean, damp hands, shape the mixture into eight even-sized balls (about the size of a golf ball). Pop them on a plate as you go, then cover and chill until you need to cook them.

Once the sweet potatoes have been cooking for about 25 minutes, put a large frying pan with the remaining oil over a medium heat. Cook the meatballs for six to eight minutes, turning regularly, until golden and almost cooked through. Remove the sweet potatoes from the oven, scatter over the cavolo nero or kale and nestle the meatballs in. Return to bake for the remaining time, until the potatoes are soft and beginning to char, the greens lightly cooked and meatballs cooked through.

Meanwhile, poach the eggs. Divide the hash between four plates. Use a slotted spoon to scoop the eggs from the water and arrange two eggs on top of each serving. Serve at once.

Lorraine Pascale At a Glance

Born: Hackney, East London, November 17 1972Nationality: British

Occupation: Television presenter, publisher, cook, model

Years active: 1989 to presentHeight: 5 10.5

Books: 6TV series: 8Marriages: 1Children: 1


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GASTROAPPRENTICE CHEFS

CONNOR GOBLEThe Little Brown Jug, Chiddingstone Causeway

How did you get involved with W&H?I started working for Whiting & Hammond two years ago as a kitchen porter. I left school last year and was offered the apprenticeship scheme at The Little Brown Jug. I enjoyed the vibe of the kitchen and the fast pace, so jumped at the chance to learn some new skills and see if I could be good enough to be a chef.

Has your apprenticeship been a valuable experience?With the help of my tutor Ben, who sets me tasks and comes to see me every two weeks, and the hands-on approach from the kitchen, Ive developed into what I am today. Being part of the team and being allowed to create new dishes has given me a huge insight into the industry

and I now know that this is where I want to be.

Who are some of your biggest in uences?Ive always been inspired by watching the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Jamie Oliver on television, and by the chefs at work in the kitchen. My family has also encouraged me to cook over the years.

Whats your signature dish?I dont have a favourite dish to cook; at this stage in my apprenticeship, Im constantly learning and creating new dishes every week.

Any plans for the future?I hope to stay with Whiting & Hammond for the foreseeable future, then eventually have the opportunity to travel, learning about cuisine from other countries. One day I would like to think I could be a head chef and have a kitchen of my own.

Here at Whiting & Hammond, were passionate about bringing young, aspiring chefs into our industry through apprenticeships and training programmes. We introduce some of the budding cooks who are earning their stripes with us at the start of bright, promising careers in the kitchen

Meet theYoung Guns

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GASTROAPPRENTICE CHEFS

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LAURA EVESThe Cricketers Inn, Meopham

Tell us about your backgroundAfter spending the past four years working in typically branded restaurants, I decided that I wanted to be able to have more of an input in creating dishes. Unfortunately, this isnt so easy in brand restaurants, so I decided to branch out and discovered where I work now.

Who inspired you to take up cooking?While nding myself inspired by

Heston Blumenthals whacky creations and Gordon Ramsays passionate temper, my real inspiration for cooking would be my dad. As a kid, I grew up with my dad being the main cook of the household and found myself joining in with him. Thats when I discovered my passion for food.

Any favourite dishes to make?I love Italian food and really enjoy the simplicity of cooking

How has your apprenticeship aided your progression?Working with Whiting & Hammond as an apprentice has helped me develop myself as a chef and discover many ways of cooking.

What are your hopes going forward?I would like to see myself as a more developed chef in the future, with more knowledge and experience, then perhaps run my own kitchen.

Were always on the lookout for young, passionate and enthusiastic apprentice chefs to join our growing team. To nd out more about how

you can become a part of the W&H family and help build the future of our industry, head to www.whitingandhammond.co.uk/vacancies


STEEN SCHLEIMANN MADSENStanmer House, Brighton

Whats your background?Im originally from Denmark and currently study here in England. Ive always found food and cooking very fascinating.

Does anyone in particular inspire your cooking?My biggest in uences are most de nitely my grandmother and my mother.

Do you have a favourite dish?I enjoy learning to cook new dishes mostly. I have to say that Frikadeller

(pan-fried meat dumplings) with parsley sauce and Danish rice pudding have a special place in my heart.

Have there been many highlights from your apprenticeship?Stanmer House and Whiting & Hammond have been very patient and co-operative with everything. Working at Stanmer has without a doubt taught me a lot, not just about cooking, but also about personal skills that I can use in the industry.

And your aims for the future?I want to become a really good chef within the next few years and use everything I learn here.

WINTER15 | 29

TOM SHARPThe Farm @ Friday Street, Eastbourne

Why did you want to become a chef?Ive always had an interest in food, ever since being in secondary school and doing a BTEC. It has always been something I knew I could expand on in the future and learn to love.

Who are some of your cooking heroes?My biggest inspiration is de nitely Heston Blumenthal and the way he can take a dish so simple and make it look so unique and out of this world; his knowledge of food is amazing and beyond belief. Another great chef I look up to is someone called Jason Howard from London. He isnt very well-known or famous, but you only have to look at the quality of the food he produces to see why he can be a big in uence on someone.

Whats your favourite dish to cook?Beef stroganoff.

Is your apprenticeship a big part of your development?I personally feel that playing such

an important role in the kitchen has helped me grow up a lot more and really knuckle down on what needs to be achieved in order to reach my goals. If I look at myself from when I started my apprenticeship to where I am now, a lot has changed and its all positive. It has been a very challenging experience so far, but Ive managed to get through it and look forward to working my way up in the kitchen and learning more every day.

Wheres it all heading for you?My main goal is to eventually have my own restaurant. I would love to own a real standout restaurant in an overseas city like New York, so that it could bring in large crowds of customers from all over the world. I know this is a very far-fetched ambition at the moment, but I can only accomplish it by carrying on doing what Im doing and trying to expand my knowledge of food even further.



PENS HURST FINE FOODS LTD

From dairy products, to dry stores and fresh bread, to the weird

and wonderful, we've been supplying Whiting & Hammond and many other

great venues for over 20 years by sourcing only the best produce

and specialist ingredients from local farms and producers

For a full product list please call 01892 664044

Established in 1986, Larkins Brewery was founded by the Dockerty family, who bought the plant from the former Royal

Tunbridge Wells Brewery. Since the move to Larkins Farm in 198 7, the production of three regular brews

and Porter in the winter months has steadily increased. Larkins supplies

around 70 free houses within a radius of 20 miles.

Proud Supplier to Whiting & Hammond

Larkins Brewery, Hampkins Hill Road, Chiddingstone,

Eden bridge, Kent TN8 7BB

01892 870 328 www.larkinsbreweryco.uk

WINTER15 | 31

Releasing cash from property to pay off an outstanding mortgage, undertake essential home renovations or buy a dream holiday is a good solution to financial challenges but only if you take personalised advice, according to a Tunbridge Wells independent equity release specialist.

Jan Bull, head of 55+ Equity Release, believes that people who could really benefit from taking advantage of equity release packages are being put off by ill-informed scaremongering in the national press.

There is a wide range of products and financial packages on the market, and mistakes can be made if people do not make the right choices for their circumstances and their families, she

says. Equity release products are not one-size-fits-all, off-the-shelf solutions.

Unfortunately, many people are facing significant financial pressures when they start researching equity release. That pressure can lead to snap decisions, which may not be the wisest in the long run.

For further information, please contact Jan Bull at 55+ Equity Release on 01892 458 780 or [email protected]

www.55plusequityrelease.com

Jans top tips for everyone thinking of taking advantage of equity release financial products include:

Whenever possible, involve families and everyone with a longer-term financial interest in the property

Products are available alongside lifetime mortgages so that not all people have to see balances increase. Some lenders allow mortgage interest to be paid, or overpaid, so that the debt reduces over time

Check out the interest rates. These vary between lenders, depending on the type of mortgage on offer. They can range from below 5% fixed for life to around 7% fixed for life

Before committing to an equity release product, work through the illustration of the mortgage plan with an independent equity release adviser and with a solicitor. This will clarify what the roll-up interest will be and the conditions for any early repayment charges

Discuss how circumstances may change in the future. For example, if you go into care, the mortgage has to be repaid. This is the same for residential mortgages, where a fixed rate product has been taken and not specific to equity release

There arent necessarily any early repayment charges though. If someone moves home, the mortgage is portable to the new property (subject to the property being approved) and some lenders dont make any early repayment charges after a fixed period

At 55+ Equity Release in Tunbridge Wells, youll find all the information needed about the different types of equity release available and the costs associated with equity release schemes. Specialist adviser and lifetime mortgage broker Jan Bull reveals some handy hints that could help

Jans top tips for successful equity release

GASTRO ADVERTORIAL

W&H_Iss11_Winter15_Advertorial_55plus Equity Release.indd 31 20/10/2015 11:39

Theres been much to celebrate at Whiting & Hammond in recent months. The great and the good of Walton-on-the-Hill, Surrey attended the opening of our eighth pub, The Blue Ball, while over at The Mark Cross in East Sussex, the 10th edition of Gastro magazine was unveiled to suppliers, advertisers and supporters, who marked this special occasion with

drinks and canaps. These two landmarks coincided perfectly, drawing attention to the hard work put in by everyone at W&H over the past year, and highlighting our success in watching the brand go from strength to strength with fresh and exciting initiatives

Theres been much to celebrate at Whiting & Hammond in recent months. The great and Theres been much to celebrate at Whiting & Hammond in recent months. The great and the good of Walton-on-the-Hill, Surrey attended the opening of our eighth pub, The Blue Ball, while over at The Mark Cross in East Sussex, the 10th edition of Gastro magazine was unveiled to suppliers, advertisers and supporters, who marked this special occasion with

drinks and canaps. These two landmarks coincided perfectly, drawing attention to the hard work put in by everyone at W&H over the past year, and highlighting our success in watching the brand go from strength to strength with fresh and exciting initiatives

W&H_Iss11_Winter15_SocialSnapshot.indd 32 20/10/2015 12:13

GASTROSOCIAL

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W&H_Iss11_Winter15_SocialSnapshot.indd 33 20/10/2015 12:13

Untitled-4 2 15/10/2015 14:18

Find us at your local W&H pub

refreshing, crisp soft drink with all natural ingredients and low sugar #BrighterSide

E facebook.com/drinkzeo ~ @drinkzeo drinkzeo.com

Gourmets in the South East wont want to miss a visit to

Tunbridge Wells, where the picturesque Pantiles boasts a wealth of food

and drink culture to sink your teeth into.

From the farmers markets to the food

festivals, we shine a light on why the

town has become a culinary wonder of

the Weald

T here can be few destinations in Kent that boast a food and drink scene as buoyant as that of Tunbridge Wells. From its discovery by Lord North in 1606, to its reputation as a popular spa destination in the Georgian and Victorian eras, the town has ourished to become one of the regions most desirable locations, thanks in no small part to its vibrant gastronomic landscape.

Today, Tunbridge Wells is known far and wide as a beacon of multicultural cuisine. There are more than 220 eateries available throughout the area, not to mention two weekly farmers

markets and food festivals every year, which showcase the very best produce the Garden of England and beyond has to offer.

Among the most well-known places to visit is the historic Pantiles. Once a playground for gentry and royalty, the pretty colonnaded walkway is famed for the iron-rich waters of the Chalybeate Spring, which once rivalled the likes of Bath and Brighton and were reputed to cure such ailments as infertility, hangovers and obesity.

Read on...

GASTROSPOTLIGHT

W&H_Iss11_Winter15_Spotlightfinal.indd 35 20/10/2015 12:14

Now, the promenade remains a must-see for both locals and visitors on account of its communal feel and bustling atmosphere. And with a multitude of shops, pubs, restaurants and cafs banding together to form The Association of Pantiles Traders, its perhaps one of the most collaborative foodie districts in Kent, as head trader Matthew Sankey explains.

Its very much now a mixture of retail and food and beverage, he says. Were quite proactive in driving footfall to the area; we run the markets and the food festivals and put on other events, so its a real destination. Theres been a resurgence in the last few years and the place has been given a bit of a makeover, so its on the way up.

For Matthew and his peers, operating at the bottom end of the town is a dream come true. A sense of community permeates each and every venue, who work together to make the thoroughfare as attractive as possible to customers through a variety of events, from the packed-out Jazz on The Pantiles evenings to the equally appealing biannual food festivals.

Working down there is extraordinary, continues Matthew. Were working hand in hand and putting everything on together. Its incredible and quite refreshing because it can get quite lonely running a business, so putting on events is great because youre dealing with likeminded people who are in your industry and in a similar position to you and your company.

Such camaraderie is naturally inspired by a shared passion for providing a strong F&B offering locally (thats food and beverage to the rest of us), but its also about sticking together in the face of larger corporations and restaurant chains setting up shop next door.

The quality of the venues is important, which has improved in the town in general and is driven by competition, Matthew says. The chain restaurants have come in and changed the industry, forcing us to be smarter, more efficient and look at how we operate our businesses, which is a key element. Weve got the advantage of being hands-on

and having a lot more passion.Its this shared vision that has served

The Pantiles and Tunbridge Wells so well until now, as an independent spirit has helped to unify smaller traders throughout the town as a whole. Equally, Kent itself remains an integral part of the story; indeed, the countys natural larder has been instrumental in enabling small businesses to make their marks on the local economy, while ensuring the produce remains front and centre, no matter where it might come from.

Were incredibly lucky being in Kent, because a lot of produce is cultivated here, says Matthew. But that doesnt mean we use it exclusively; its more key that were using locally based wholesale companies.

We need to make sure we keep the local economy thriving, and spending money with independent food and beverage sites is a great way of doing that because well always buy off local people. Its important that were using local suppliers and the best

Read on...

36 | WINTER15


We need to make sure we keep the local

economy thriving, and spending money with independent food and beverage sites is a great way of doing that because well always buy off local people Matthew Sankey


Untitled-4 2 15/10/2015 14:19

Great independent restaurants, pubs and cafs theres great pride taken by these businesses The Pantiles Food Festivals in May and September Two great food markets the Town Hall on the second Saturday of the month and The Pantiles on the rst and third Saturday of the month With plenty of choice, The Pantiles is great for families no main roads and loads of space for little ones to play

Some of the best producers in the UK right on our doorstep, making it sustainable, as well as delicious

Matthew lists his top ve reasons to visit Tunbridge Wells and The Pantiles

WINTER15 | 39

produce from whoevers growing and producing it. It might not be local, but as long as were using local people to source it, thats the important thing.

Another factor that has helped drive the towns footfall is a recent in ux of celebrity chefs, as household names like Rosemary Shrager, Richard Phillips and James Tanner have all made Tunbridge Wells the home of Michelin-starred restaurants and cookery schools alike. But, as Matthew warns, the emphasis needs to remain on local outlets rst and foremost.

Weve got to be careful there, he says. Having people like Rosemary Shrager and Richard Phillips is one thing and great for the town, but having a massive chain like Jamie

Oliver move in is something else. Weve got to make sure we look after our own brands, but thats down to us to make them strong and desirable enough, because if theyre not, others will move in. So, while its great to have these big names wanting to come down to us, we need to make sure we look after ourselves.

If the increasing popularity of the jazz evenings and food festivals is anything to go by, that shouldnt be a problem, as winers and diners from all over continue to be drawn to the areas booming food and drink attractions. And while the competition of larger enterprises might present a challenge, the smaller outlets are continuing to ght the good ght.

Were on the back foot against the Goliaths, but we can provide a better product; we know that and weve proved it time and time again, concludes Matthew. Weve just got to be proactive and get involved, but the most important thing is making sure our products good. We know we cant please everyone, but well give it a damn good try.

Well, Matthew, dish up and get the beers in, because the next rounds on us.

To nd out more about food and drink in Tunbridge Wells and The Pantiles, head to www.visittunbridgewells.com or www.pantilestraders.co.uk

GASTROSPOTLIGHT


GASTRORECIPES

Heres where we feature our teams top choices from the W&H menu for you to try at home. Martin Slocombe,

general manager at The Blue Ball in Walton-on-the-Hill, Surrey, shares his love of shell sh

My favourite dish

Cleaning the musselsWash the mussels under cold running water, but dont scrub the shells, or the colour will transfer to the juices during cooking, giving them an unappetising, grey appearance. If any of the mussels oat, it means theyre not very fresh, so discard them (and ask your shmonger to credit them). Press the shells of any open mussels together with your ngers; if they dont close, discard them. Scrape off any barnacles from the mussels with a sharp knife and pull out the beards, then drain well.

Cooking the onion and herbsOver a medium heat, in a large pan, soften the onion, bay leaves and thyme in the butter for one minute.

Cooking the musselsAdd the mussels and white wine, cover the pan tightly with a lid and cook for four to ve minutes, until the mussels have opened.

Finishing the dishStir in the cream and parsley, then serve in a large dish or four soup plates. Give nger bowls to your guests and lots of good French bread to mop up the wonderful juices.

How to make French friesPrepare the potatoesThe ideal French fries have a crisp, golden exterior and a light, mealy interior. Russet or Idaho potatoes (high-starch potatoes) will give you the best results, although Finnish yellow, Yukon gold, or other all-purpose potatoes will work. Low-starch potatoes, such as round red or white, or new potatoes, are the least preferable.

For four to six servings, start with four medium baking potatoes (or sweet potatoes), or about one to one and a half pounds. Usually the potatoes are peeled, but you can leave the peel on. To prevent peeled potatoes from darkening, immerse them in a bowl of ice water.

The trick for uniform fries is to rst cut the potato into a rectangular shape by cutting off both ends. Next, cut straight down one side to make a at surface. Repeat on the other three sides so you end up with a rectangular potato. Next, cut the potato into 1/4 to 3/8-inch strips. If you prefer, you can cut the potato into thin wedges. Try to cut them so they are about half an inch wide at the widest part of the potato.

Heat the oil for fryingIts important to use an oil suitable for

deep-frying when making fries. Some oils, such as olive and axseed, are not appropriate because they have low smoke points and will smoke, discolour and break down at low temperatures. Oils with a higher smoke point that work well for deep-frying include the likes of canola and peanut.

One of the secrets for deep-frying foods is to keep the fat at a constant high temperature. This is best done by using a heavy, at-bottom pan and a deep-fat thermometer to monitor the oil temperature. In a heavy, deep, three-quart saucepan or fryer, heat oil to 185C (the pan should be no more than half full).

Fry the potatoesPreheat the oven to 150C. Drain the potatoes well and, using paper towels, pat them thoroughly to dry. Fry the potatoes, about one third at a time, until tender in the centres and the edges are crisp and golden; about ve to six minutes, turning once.

Using a slotted spoon, carefully remove the fries from the hot oil and transfer to clean paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt, if desired. Keep the cooked fries warm on a baking pan in the oven while frying remaining potatoes.

Moules marinire and French fries Serves 4-6

Preparation time: 5 minutesCooking time: 5-6 minutes

Moules marinire and French fries (Ingredients pictured below)

1 white onion, nely chopped

2 bay leaves

8 sprigs fresh thyme

Cooking time: 5-6 minutes

15g unsalted butter

100ml dry white wine

2tbsp whipping cream

1.8kg mussels

25g at leaf parsley, picked and roughly chopped

40 | WINTER15

W&H_Iss11_Winter15_MyFavDish.indd 40 20/10/2015 11:59

I fell in love with mussels when I was 15 years old. My father used to take me

to the south of France and we used to sit on the harbour eating fresh

mussels and fries. This is when I decided to join the hospitality trade

years old. My father used to take me

Moules marinire and French fries

Martin Slocombe

WINTER15 | 41

W&H_Iss11_Winter15_MyFavDish.indd 41 20/10/2015 11:59

Untitled-4 2 15/10/2015 14:19

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ESTABLISHED IN NZ. MADE IN EU. oldmoutcider.co.uk for the facts drinkaware.co.uk

GASTRODRINK

WINTER15 | 43

Ale TaleLocal boys make

good beer

Read on

Kent might be famous for its top-notch hops, but theres an equally exciting brewing revolution going on throughout neighbouring East Sussex. We catch up with Jamie Simm of Long Man Brewery in Litlington to nd out why small breweries are becoming big business in the South East and beyond

W&H_Iss11_Winter15_AleTale.indd 43 20/10/2015 11:27

44 | WINTER15

GASTRODRINK

I f youve ever visited the South Downs, chances are youve spotted the iconic Long Man of Wilmington; at 226 feet tall, the imposing image is cut into the steep slope of Windover Hill and remains a major local landmark, as well as one of the largest representations of a human gure anywhere in the world.

Its from this famous monument that Long Man Brewery naturally takes its name. Founded in 2012 by locals Stephen Lees, Duncan Ellis and head brewer Jamie Simm, the award-winning hop house is based in the nearby village of Litlington in the Cuckmere Valley, at the heart of the South Downs National Park.

The Long Man headquarters can be found at Church Farm, where the Ellis family has been overseeing operations for three generations. And with Stephen and Jamies respective experience at beverage suppliers HT White and The Royal Tunbridge Wells Brewery, it has become one of the fastest growing breweries in the South East, where a love of all things local underpins each and every drop of its eclectic range of beers.

Long Man employs in excess of 10 people, the majority of whom live within the Cuckmere Valley; half of the team actually live within the village of Litlington, says Jamie. Theres a real passion for great beer and for the local community within the team and a great calibre of committed sta in the area. East Sussex alone has in excess of 60 breweries, which shows the strength of the industry and the demand in the South East of England for great beers.

Such demand stems from the brewerys use of local ingredients to produce award-winning brews like the seriously hopped American Pale Ale and the ever popular Long Blonde. Certainly, Long Mans success is well-deserved, as the brewery strives to be as self-su cient, sustainable and environmentally friendly as possible.

Each beer we produce is the end result of not trying to reinvent the wheel, but rather to get back to basics and produce consistently high-quality, handcrafted, cask conditioned bitter, continues Jamie. Our identity lies within our commitment to use the

best and most locally sourced ingredients. Without a doubt, recipe formulation is the best part of the job. It perfectly re ects the blend of science and art required to work within this industry.

In addition to using their own barley, which is grown on the downs overlooking Eastbourne, Stephen, Duncan and Jamie ensure that all waste products are used on the surrounding farmland, while waste water is channelled to irrigate crops and spent grain is used to feed livestock. Theyve even ventured into more philanthropic ventures, helping to raise money for the Eastbourne Pier Benevolent Fund with their Craft Pier brew.

But its the locality of East Sussex that remains the star of the show, as a back-to-basics approach throughout the South East has seen breweries like Long Man come to the forefront of the regions beer making industry, coinciding with punters penchants for no-nonsense, good quality ales. To that end, villages like Litlington have made their mark as go-to destinations for the real deal.

In recent times there has been a perfect storm of


WINTER15 | 45

increased demand, a desire for decent beer and a boredom of the mass-produced wet air on o er, Jamie says. In an interesting turn, the British market is now starting to be increasingly in uenced by the American craft scene, and for this reason, among others, the industry is starting to endorse both cask and keg beers.

And the industry starting to take note of smaller breweries too, which have now become major players on the national pub circuit. Today, Long Man supplies more than 80 outlets throughout the UK and has won its fair share of awards, including Europes Best Pale Ale at the

World Beer Awards for its APA, and a recent Silver Medal at the International Beer Challenge for Long Blonde. Pretty impressive for any brewery, let alone one of such independent stature; but, as Jamie concludes, what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in versatility.

Local brewers are perfectly placed to be close to the preferences of the local end consumer and understand their desires, while being agile enough to produce a range of beers and regular guests that cater for the tastes of the most demanding beer connoisseur.

Fast becoming a favourite of local ale drinkers, it would seem that Long Man de nitely ts the bill. And while appealing to regional and national customers might be a balancing act for such a young brewery, business has boomed over its three-year history, meaning ale a cionados can rest assured that these three local boys are certainly in it for the long haul.

CONTACT:Long Man BreweryChurch Farm, Litlington, East Sussex BN26 5RA 01323 871 850 | www.longmanbrewery.com

Whiting & Hammond supports responsible drinking. Visit www.drinkaware.co.uk for the facts about alcohol

SUSSEX PRIDEAmerican Pale Ale (4.8% ABV)

Made using only the choicest US hops, this triple hopped American Pale Ale has a pleasant citrus fruit aroma and characteristic robust bitterness.

Best Bitter (4% ABV)A traditional Sussex best. Perfectly balanced with a complex bittersweet, malty taste, fragrant hops and a characteristic long, smooth nish.

Copper Hop (4.2% ABV)Copper in colour and hoppy by nature; Vienna and Premium British Caramalt provide a balanced backbone for the intense tropical fruit aromas.

Long Blonde (3.8% ABV)A light coloured golden ale with a distinctive hoppy aroma and crisp, clean bitterness on the nish. Smooth, light and refreshing.

Session IPA (3.8% ABV)Brewed using the famous triple C hops, this modern take on a British classic is a highly qua able, straw gold session ale that packs a serious citrus aroma punch!

and Premium British

light and refreshing.

C hops, this modern

hopped American

robust bitterness.

Perfectly balanced

CONTACT:


Untitled-1 1 20/10/2015 12:26

Christmas cashThroughout the UK, an estimated 22billion is spent by households at Christmas time, with the average home splashing out a grand total of 835. Approximately 161 of this is thought to go on food and drink, while the rest is spent on gifts (634), cards, trees and decorations (40).

22 billion= total spend

835= average spend

634= amounton total gifts

= average spend= average spend 6363= amount= amounton total giftson total gifts161

food & drink

Foodie factsheet

Turkey traditionsThe majority of families (76%) around the UK tend to serve up a succulent roast turkey as the centrepiece of their festive meal at Christmas. Last year saw the UK consuming approximately 10million turkeys. The bird was considered a luxury before becoming more readily available in the 1950s.

Sweet speculationMuch superstition surrounds mince pies. While it is considered lucky to eat one on each of the 12 days of Christmas, cutting one with a knife is said to bring bad luck. Mince pies should always be eaten in silence and the mincemeat mixture should be stirred clockwise.

Global gourmetsIn Norway, the festive feast takes place on Christmas Eve, while the Swedish meal consists of caviar, shell sh, cheeses plus cooked and raw sh. Soup, salads, eggs and carp are enjoyed in the Czech Republic and Austrians indulge in braised carp served with a gingerbread and beer sauce.

Pudding powerChristmas pudding is also shrouded in mystery. Supposedly, the dessert should be made with 13 ingredients to represent Jesus and his disciples, while placing a silver coin (traditionally a sixpence, or todays ve pence piece) in the pudding reportedly brings good luck to the person who nds it.

Brussels beginningsDespite being named

after the Belgian capital, Brussels sprouts are thought to originally come from Iran and Afghanistan. There are over 50 varieties of the vegetable, and farmers run 10 times as many harvesters to produce

them in the run-up to Christmas, picking them

from dawn until dusk.

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GASTROFOODTRIVIA

Calorie countersAn average Brit consumes 7,000 calories on Christmas Day. Some 2,265 of these are consumed before Christmas lunch through alcohol and snacking, while the dinner itself accounts for 1,450 and Christmas pudding for 1,174. As a result, we put on 6lbs between Christmas Eve and New Years Day.

WINTER15 | 47

W&H_Iss11_Winter15_FoodFacts.indd 47 20/10/2015 11:44

Untitled-4 2 15/10/2015 14:21

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GASTROSTREETFOOD

WINTER15 | 49

KITCHENS OF THE

Farmers markets have always been a big part of the food and drink scene in this part of the world, but now theres something far more radical coming our way. As the street food movement gathers pace, we nd out why gourmet grub is heading out of the restaurants and onto the roadside

Revolution

N owadays, it seems like everywhere you look, good quality food is becoming more readily available up and down the UK. From pop-up restaurants to farmers markets, diners want to know more about their meals, where they come from and how theyre packaged and delivered.

Perhaps even more importantly, people

want their food cheap and they want it now. But far from the quick x titans of Burger King, KFC and McDonalds, the latest fast food fad is something altogether fresher and more exciting, as the street food revolution has taken Britain by storm in recent years.

Following suit from the United States, the street food phenomenon as we know it today aims to take great gastronomic

W&H_Iss11_Winter15_StreetFood.indd 49 20/10/2015 12:16

50 | WINTER15

offerings into the streets by way of mobile food trucks, vans and trailers. A back-to-basics approach is adopted, with roaming chefs setting up shop wherever their wheels take them, serving up more affordable spins on classic recipes without compromising on the quality. Simply put, these innovative purveyors and peddlers are rede ning the way we eat and enjoy our food.

One man whos championing the trend is Richard Johnson. As a food critic for The Independent and The Guardian, as well as a judge on ITVs Taste the Nation and Channel 4s Iron Chef, the award-winning journalist and broadcaster founded the British Street Food Awards in 2010, celebrating the nations traders who are turning traditional dining on its head and bringing something entirely different to the table.

I was pro ling Marco Pierre White in New York, says Richard. Wed been out the night before and woke up on a very sunny New York morning in need of strong coffee and some substantial carbohydrates. We ended up in a park in Manhattan eating the best hotdogs and burgers wed ever tasted, thinking, Why cant we do this at home?

It wasnt long before the new foodie fashion took off on our side of the pond, as local, regional and national vendors

took inspiration from their American

counterparts, adapting recipes to t the landscapes

abundance of fresh, seasonal

produce and catering to the nuances of British

tastes and palates.In a very short

space of time, street

food has gone from being sausages in a can to the cutting edge of food in Britain, Richard continues. Hopefully weve got some of the pizzazz of the Americans their glitz and glamour and the way they present their food in these weird and wonderful vans, trucks and trailers but also more of the integrity of the ingredients that youd nd in the Far East.

Today, street food is eaten by 2.5billion people across the world every day; hardly surprising, as easier travel opportunities and a greater exposure to more exotic cuisines has educated us no end, spurring on a new generation of intrepid eaters to try something new. And with an ever-expanding multiculturalism and the nancial constraints of the recession, its a lucrative industry that has nally been given the opportunity to ourish.

The recession had something to do with kick-starting it, Richard says. People wanted a night out, but were more aware of the constraints. What street food delivered was the drama, the excitement and the theatre, but on an affordable budget.

Lunch shouldnt have to be 100 or a sandwich at your desk; there has to be some other way of eating. The street food that I saw in New York really excited me it was

theatrical, engaging, affordable and excited people about food. As food writers, a big part of our job is to make people care about the food theyre eating.

And its not just big cities like London that are hopping on the bandwagon; the likes of Brighton are embracing the change too, as outdoor events like Street Diner continue to attract adventurous eaters to the Kent and Sussex regions. But while the South Eastern counties might still have a long way to go, the areas bountiful ingredients and popular farmers markets have certainly helped pave the way.

It traditionally works best in larger towns, so we havent seen much country street food, but access to ingredients is vital, and there are such wonderful farming opportunities and so many great producers in Kent and Sussex, explains Richard.

I always trace the beginnings of the street food movement back to farmers markets; that was where the birth of

It wasnt long before the new foodie fashion took off on our side of the pond, as local, regional and national vendors

took inspiration from their American

counterparts, adapting recipes to t the landscapes

abundance of fresh, seasonal

produce and catering to the nuances of British

tastes and palates.In a very short

space of time, street


GASTROSTREETFOOD

WINTER15 | 51

the street food swagger began. It then became about presentation and going into more esoteric vans, trucks and trailers that expressed a bit more about you, allowed you more mobility and became a bit more rock and roll than a trestle table and a tablecloth.

Of course, celebrity chefs and organisations like Love British Food and the Nationwide Caterers Association have helped make consumers aware of whats on offer in our natural larder. For people like Richard, however, its about far more than just the grub on offer that makes street food culture so special.

Increasingly, it has evolved into something much more than food, he says. Its also about the DJs, the entertainment and hanging out together in a festival atmosphere with a big bucket of beer in the middle. Just having food isnt enough anymore theyre more like food raves at the very best.

Indeed, its this sense of community and lifestyle that has made street food stand out. Which isnt to say, of course, that Michelin-starred restaurants and more traditional dining experiences dont still have their place, as theres certainly plenty of room for everyone. But there can be no denying that the skys the limit for the potential of the emerging street food scene.

A big part of what we do is nding the next big thing in street food, because that will often be the next big thing on the high street, says Richard. The high street is really bereft of ideas and street food is such an exciting place to trial new concepts that venture capital is oating above. The joy of street food is that youre not tied in to a restaurant concept; if it doesnt work, you can move on to something else.

If the current climates anything to go by, things are most de nitely looking up for the gourmet guerrillas who are slowly but surely making their voices heard. And with street food nding its way into our supermarkets and shops, it surely wont be long until its as much a part of Britains fast food fabric as takeaways and ready meals, but with a much needed boost to what we put in our trollies.

Theres a de nite trend for street food to go indoors, Richard concludes. Were in the beginnings of talks about how to put the excitement of street food menus into pubs. By working with street food from the very beginning and nding new talent, were able to put traders into restaurants and retail parks. Were nding spaces for street food so that it really does become a revolution rather than just a slogan.

To that end, the popularity of street food is showing no signs of slowing, reaching the hearts and minds of gastronomes all over the country and becoming an integral part of our food economys future. But like any great revolution, this one started in the streets, and thats exactly where its soul will remain.

To nd out about Richard Johnson and British Street Food, head to www.britishstreetfood.co.uk. You can also learn more about street food and the Nationwide Caterers Association by visiting www.streetfood.org.uk or www.ncass.org.uk

Lunch shouldnt have to be 100 or a sandwich at your desk; there has to be some other way of eating. The street food in New York was theatrical, engaging, affordable and excited people about food. As food writers, a big part of our job is to make people care about the food theyre eating


Untitled-2 1 20/10/2015 12:28

It helps people get off bene- ts and into employmentThe low entry costs and little experience required to start a street food business make for great employment opportu-nities. All you really need is a great foodie concept and a savvy sense of self-belief (NCASS do pretty much all the rest for you).

It makes everybody happyStreet food gives entrepre-neurs the opportunity to put their passion into practice as they cook delicious food and put smiles on their punters fac-es. Now thats a rewarding job.

It encourages urban regener-ation in out-of-touch townsStreet food can transform a cold corporate space or a va-cant factory into a thriving mar-ket full of colours, aromas and happy, smiley people. Many places (like Leeds, Frome and

Reigate) are using it to develop their night-time economy, kick-start entrepreneurship and create tourist destinations.

Its a massively supportive communityThe street food community is a tight-knit bunch; traders often bounce ideas off each other and lend a helping hand when its needed. Its a really nice industry to work in.

Its about gourmet food without the price tagDid you know you can get a 5 lunch from the London KERB collective? Delicious (and delightfully priced) food made from sustainable ingre-dients and cooked live keeps the customers coming. Thats real theatre.

The Nationwide Caterers Association gives us its top ve reasons for loving street food

WORD ON THE STREET

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JASO

N AL

DON

Richard Johnson


GASTROTRAVEL

Ever dreamed of setting sail on a luxury cruiser, accompanied by a host of celebrity chefs waiting on you hand and foot? Well, now you can, as P&O Cruises introduce their long-awaited Food Heroes trips aboard the MV Britannia. We join Michael McHugh for some nautical nosh across the Baltic Seanautical nosh across the Baltic Sea

W&H_Iss11_Winter15_Travel.indd 54 20/10/2015 12:21

A startlingly tart apple crumble is my traditionally British dessert as I sail towards Scandinavia and Russia with one of the UKs most venerable old cruise lines. Yet on the MV Britannia, P&Os new agship liner, the familiar dish is turned on its head. The crumble looks like breaded cod and is accompanied by a bowl of mashed potato a sorbet tasting like 100 apples have been crammed into every icy spoonful.

With celebrity chef Marco Pierre White on board, I feel I could be in a select corner of an English shire, enjoying the fruits of a same-day forage in his

beloved orchard. Hes just one of the kitchen whizzes P&O have recruited for a star-studded line-up of Food Heroes Cruises. Indian cuisine

specialist Atul Kochhar, French master pastry chef Eric

Lanlard, wine expert Olly

Smith and Brit boy

James Martin also host voyages, and some are even prepared to roll up their sleeves and teach passengers in the ships Cookery Club.

Im sailing on Britannia, the largest cruise ship ever built for the British market. The 3,600-passenger monolith is based in Southampton and its Union Jack livery is visible for miles when at sea. It towers over far- ung quays like a piece of oceanic mega-fauna.

Eric Lanlard has joined us for this sailing, creating a gourmet version of that most British of institutions afternoon tea. I munch tender roast beef and horseradish on brioche, marvelling at how the delicate peppery taste of watercress is preserved. Its followed by a cheese clair of Brie and sweet red onion marmalade.

Star of the show is a dark chocolate tear drop, my spoon revealing a centre of oozing Italian Amarena cherry mousse, and I cant help but remark on the clever presentation as I bite into a rose- avoured cake in the form of a lollipop. But I quickly realise that these elaborate dishes are something Id struggle to emulate at home.

Any thoughts of putting down the fork and seriously picking up the spatula are swiftly dispelled during a cookery class with White, of TVs Hells Kitchen fame. He urges novice chefs to relax, by downplaying potential hazards: What is the worst you can do, overcook it or undercook it?

crammed into every icy spoonful.With celebrity chef Marco Pierre White on board, I

feel I could be in a select corner of an English shire, enjoying the fruits of a same-day forage in his

beloved orchard. Hes just one of the kitchen whizzes P&O have recruited for a star-studded line-up of Food Heroes Cruises. Indian cuisine

specialist Atul Kochhar, French master pastry chef Eric

Lanlard, wine expert Olly

Smith and Brit boy

Eric Lanlard has joined us for this sailing, creating a gourmet version of that most British of institutions afternoon tea. I munch tender roast beef and horseradish on brioche, marvelling at how the delicate peppery taste of watercress is preserved. Its followed by a cheese clair of Brie and sweet red onion marmalade.

Star of the show is a dark chocolate tear drop, my spoon revealing a centre of oozing Italian Amarena cherry mousse, and I cant help but remark on the clever presentation as I bite into a rose- avoured cake in the form of a lollipop. But I quickly realise that these elaborate dishes are something Id struggle to emulate at home.

Any thoughts of putting down the fork and seriously picking up the spatula are swiftly dispelled during a cookery class with White, of TVs Hells Kitchen fame. He urges Hells Kitchen fame. He urges Hells Kitchennovice chefs to relax, by downplaying potential hazards: What is the worst you can do, overcook it or undercook it?

Read on

WINTER15 | 55WINTER15WINTER15 | 55



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Continued As I miss the boiling water and

accidentally tip my dry macaroni into a lobster sauce, his words echo in my ears while pupil and teacher lock eyes. The maestro never loses poise, draining the soupy mixture from the uncooked pasta, but I feel the pitying glances of my classmates as I try to hide behind the stove. At least I manage to painstakingly chop an onion, very, very nely, long after fellow students have nished.

Perfection is lots of little things done well, says White, but the three Michelin star-winning chef is also feeling a bit nervous. Hes cooking for a handful of exclusive diners this evening, and confesses to nding the prospect a little daunting, but also intimate and enjoyable: You learn to dissolve your fears on the stove.

The father-of-three says he enjoys nothing more than tending to his apple trees and being out in the countryside. He also loves life at sea, preferring the waves to the city. Im in full agreement as we meander along a fjord outside Stockholm. The boat weaves between small islands with log cabins painted cream, accessible only by water. Jet-skiers play in the wake as the vessel drifts languorously, extending large ripples from its side.

Were soon on our way to St Petersburg, Russias window on the West, which lies on the Baltics eastern extremity. Postcard-perfect classical buildings and Venetian-style canals de ne this former imperial capital. I visit Peterhof, the summer palace of Catherine the Great. Its dripping with gaudy Baroque-style gold ornamentation and chandeliers all recreations, as the original riches were plundered by Nazi troops during the

Second World War. More than 100 rooms were destroyed, but so far only 25 have been restored.

Outside the buildings Gulf of Finland-facing facade is an extravagance matching that of its interior: fountains with two golden, kneeling, half-human, half-beast gures dominate formal gardens, lled with topiary and manicured lawns. They soak me with spray as I elbow through crowds of tourists for a view.

Our day of culture concludes with a ballet evening under the high, stuccoed ceilings of the Grand Palace. The prima ballerina in St Petersburg native Pyotr Tchaikovskys Swan Lake displays perfect timing during dizzyingly long pirouettes, losing herself in the dance. On board Britannia, dancing isnt quite of the same

mesmerising quality. But the mostly middle-to-old-aged passengers happily waltz and shimmy into the small hours at the Crystal Room dancing lounge, as I relax with a drink.

The demographic is tactfully acknowledged by some of the services on o er, including spa treatments for pu y ankles and arthritis, and ship photographers promising soft-focus treatment for customers to make them appear 10 years younger. Yet the buzzing social life on board would make many a 20-something wilt, and the vessel abounds with vigorous 60-year-olds in chinos and polo shirts, pullovers tied over shoulders.

Julian Smith, a soprano saxophonist who you might remember from the 2009 series of Britains Got Talent, plays Ennio Morricones soundtrack to the 1986 lm The Mission, as I stand at the back of a crowded auditorium, surrounded by passengers in their most elegant evening gowns and black-tie out ts.

I then head to dinner in Sindhu, a low-lit and tastefully decorated part of the ship that could be a rajas quarters. A chicken tikka pie in thick pastry combines UK staples with a wild berry compote, providing an original and zingy contrast. A chocolate pudding with a perfectly molten centre follows, coupled with a blood orange sorbet.

Afterwards, I retire to the Crows Nest bar at the front of the ship, which has an impressive menu of London and Plymouth gins, and listen to the piano player. My ambitions to be a gourmet chef may have quickly sunk without a trace, but a holiday spent dining on ne food and even ner views has been nothing short of plain sailing.of plain sailing.

WINTER15 | 57

of plain sailing.of plain sailing.

WINTER15 | 57

GASTROTRAVEL


W ith so much exposure to endless TV programmes nowadays, its no surprise that many of us aspire to be the next Jamie or Nigella when cooking at home. But since there are countless ways of preparing and creating food, keeping them all in check can sometimes get a little overwhelming.

So, if you want to walk the walk, youve rst got to talk the talk, which is why weve put together a gastronomic glossary of terms that every budding chef should have to hand when working their magic in the kitchen.

From basting and blanching to sauting and searing, we guide you through a selection of words youll need to know when cooking up a storm for friends and family. Read on to nd out more and brush up on your foodie phrases

BakingProlonged dry heat is used for baking, which reaches the centre of the food from the surface.

It can be achieved using an oven, hot

ashes or hot stones.

Guide to Cooking Techniques

BastingMany meats can be prepared in their own juices, or a separate sauce or marinade, which is used to coat the meat at various intervals throughout the cooking process.

Bastingprepared in their own

which is used to coat

intervals throughout the cooking

BlanchingThis technique means plunging fruits or vegetables into boiling water for a couple of minutes, before placing them in ice water or under a tap to stop them cooking.

BoilingThe advantages of boiling include retaining maximum colour and nutritive value of vegetables, although it can be time-consuming and result in a loss of soluble vitamins to the water.

58 | WINTER15

GASTROGLOSSARY

Whether you fancy yourself a poaching pro or a baking beginner, its always handy to know your stu in the kitchen. To help you get to grips with the

terminology and techniques, weve rounded up some key de nitions that will equip you with the necessary jargon to survive behind your stove

CoddlingSimilar to poaching, coddling is u

gastro magazine winter 2015

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