global launch 2018 tucumã butter
TRANSCRIPT
Aligned with the growing demand for natural solutions to green formulations, Beraca launches its Tucumã Butter, a sustainable, clean and effi cient alternative to silicones in skin care formulations.
Beraca's Tucumã Butter is 100% natural, non-hydrogenated, and lightweight. Together with its natural oil properties and benefi ts, it can be used to promote a silicone-like sensorial feel in health & personal care formulas, with fast absorption and high spreadability, promoting shine and smoothness to formulations.
In addition to the proven cosmetics benefi ts of Beraca's Tucumã Butter, the ingredient is sustainably harvested by amazonian local families, providing positive socio-environmental impacts and an extra source of income for more than 90 families, with direct impact in the lives of approximately 600 people.
ButterTucumã
100% natural alternative to the silicone feel in cosmetic formulations
Tucumã Butter Sensory Profi le
During Application After Application
Tucumã ButterSilicone 200/350Silicone 9040 Tucumã ButterSilicone 200/350Silicone 9040
Oiliness
SpreadabilityGreasiness
Absorption time
Shine
INCI Name: Astrocaryum Vulgare Kernel Oil
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0
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Sensory evaluation panel (20 assesors) comparing Tucumã Butter with Silicone 9040 and Silicone 200/350 during application.
* Statistical signifi cance p<0.05 compared to Silicone 9040
Sensory evaluation panel (20 assesors) comparing Tucumã Butter with Silicone 9040 and Silicone 200/350 2 minutes after application.
* Statistical signifi cance p<0.05 compared to Silicone 9040
Oiliness
Greasiness
Shine
Dry feel Smoothness
Tackiness*
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8
10
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Indications
Skin and hair care products focused on new textures, with exclusive sensorial properties.
Properties
• 100% natural alternative to silicones • Emollient - helps maintain skin’s
moisture balance
• Contains lauric acid - strengthens hair fi ber by protecting it from breakage
• Light texture and non-greasy feel• Fast absorption and high spreadability• Light colour and odorless
Aligned with the growing demand for natural solutions to green formulations, Beraca launches its Tucumã Butter, a sustainable, clean
beraca.com
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GLOBAL LAUNCH 2018
TECHNICAL DATA SHEET:
TUCUMA BUTTER
BERACA presents a wide portfolio composed of fixed oils, butters, scrubs, clays and actives
sustainably sourced from the Brazilian biodiversity. The ingredients sold by the company are
directly related to the work developed by extractive communities throughout Brazil. Through
the Socio-Biodiversity Enhancement Program®, the company connects biodiversity to
thousands of consumers around the world. This means, among other advantages for our
stakeholders, transparency, traceability and innovation, which directly contribute to regional
development and environmental preservation of different biomes in the country.
GENERAL INFORMATION As a member of the Arecaceae family, the Astrocaryum vulgare is a native plant of the Amazonian
region. Tucumã is commonly found in Pará, on solid ground of the Amazonian Forest.
A. vulgare grows near rivers but on non-flooded areas, on solid ground, low vegetable coverage, and
grasslands, and can reach from 10 to 15 m high, with a 10 to 20 cm diameter trunk. It has very thorny
leaves with 6 to 7 m long, and 1 m long bunches.
It has perennial leaves, heliophyte, selective xerophyte, characteristic of the Amazonian rainy solid
ground forest. Tucumã trees produce 2 to 5 fruit bunches per year and each bunch weights between
10 and 30 kg, containing from 200 to 400 fruits, as an average. One kilogram of fruits contains about
90 units. Tucumã flowrishes from August to November and its fruits ripen from the end of November
up to May.
PROPERTIES
Tucumã butter acts as an emollient, rich in lauric acid and myristic. Promotes hydration with rapid
absorption through the skin, in addition to strengthening the hair fiber, protecting it from breakage.
The use of this raw material is indicated for the development of various types of cosmetics, especially
those aimed at new textures. As a natural alternative to the use of silicones, it has unique sensory
properties such as high spreadability and light texture, promoting dry and non-greasy touch to the
skin.
COSMETIC USE • Hair products for all hair types (shampoos, conditioners, masks, combing creams, ampoules,
pomades, finishers, etc.);
• Body and facial products for all skin types (emulsions, lotions, liquid and bar soaps, shower gel, oils,
massage oils, etc.);
• Sunscreens and after sun;
• Makeups in general;
• Men's products (aftershave, shaving cream, etc.).
EFFICACY EVALUATION INTRODUCTION
The sensory profile of a cosmetic product is a key factor in the product identity composition, in its
appearance, and often it directly influences its ability to reach the desired cosmetic effect. For that,
there are bunches of ingredients acting as sensory modifiers, this is, they are able to change a cosmetic
base sensory by promoting “dry touch”, “smoothness”, “high spreadability”, “fast absorption”,
amongst many other features.
Major ingredients in this class are silicones, synthetic compounds widely used in the cosmetic industry.
There are several types of silicones, each one with different sensory attributes, being applied in
formulations for skincare, haircare, sunprotection, and even to care of sensitive skins.
Although sensory benefits given by silicones are highly attractive and justify the large amount of
products containing them, their use is being questioned in terms of their effects on the skin, hair, and
even on the environment. Some silicones are cumulative, since they adhere to hair threads and to the
skin, demanding a larger rinse time and, sometimes stronger surfactants must be used for a complete
product removal. After a continuous use, this may provoke dryness or even mild irritations.
In addition, silicones are inactive in terms of soil and water reactions, besides being not biodegradable.
Thus, whenever silicone-containing products are rinsed, they are transported by water, polluting it
and contributing for rivers and seas pollution.
Therefore, searches after new ingredients that may be alternatives to the silicones use, with the same
sensory features, but showing greater skin health and environment benefits, are highly valuable for
the cosmetic industry.
Beraca, analyzing this scenery, searched the Brazilian biodiversity for an ingredient to meet this
demand. After investigations, evaluating the compared sensory profile of two silicones to wide use in
the market, Beraca is presenting a brand new ingredient, with proved efficacy, as a natural alternative
to the use of silicones.
OBJECTIVE
This study purpose was comparing the sensory profile of TUCUMÃ BUTTER against a commercial
silicone, widely used in the cosmetic market, in order to present the butter as a natural alternative to
the use of silicones.
METHODS
1. Laboratory
The study was carried out in an independent laboratory, the Kosmoscience Ciência & Tecnologia
Cosmética Ltda. Study reference Nr: BC078-18 - R1.
2. Experimental and Treatment Groups
Experimental groups and their respective treatments are reported in Table 1 below.
Table 1. Test products used in the study BC078-18 - R1.
Experimental group Identification
SILICONE 200/350 SILICONE DIMETICONE
TUCUMÃ BUTTER TUCUMÃ BUTTER
During the studies, products were stored under room temperature.
3. Protocol procedure
The descriptive sensory analysis is performed from the evaluation by a skilled sensory panel. In this
study, 20 appraisers (40 ± 9 years), both genders, under controlled temperature (22 ± 2°C) and relative
humidity (55 ± 5%) conditions, were selected for characterizing previously defined sensory features
described in Table 2.
Table 2. Sensory features of test products assessed in the present study.
Feature Definition
During the application
Absorption time Time elapsed in order that the skin starts absorving the product - very
slow to very rapid
Spreadability Easiness to spread/diffuse the product on the skin
Oiliness Oil feel on the skin during and after the product application
Greasiness Grease feel, forming a film on the skin, immediately after the product
application
Shine Intensity of the skin reflected light, immediately after the product
application
After the application
Dry feel Feeling of non oily, non sticky, and no shine on skin
Tackiness Intensity of the product adherence to the skin
Oiliness Oil feel over the skin two minutes after the product application
Greasiness Grease feel, forming a film over the skin two minutes after the product
application
Softness Feeling of “peach skin”
Shine Intensity of the skin reflected light two minutes after the product
application
The evaluation was carried out with a 10-point linear scale, with quantitative references for
Little/Nothing, Medium/Intermediate and High/Intense of each attribute, as showed in Figure 1.
Figure 1. 10 point linear scale and quantitative references for each feature intensity.
Low/Nothing Medium/Intermediate High/Intense
Appraisers were instruct to stop the use of any topic product on their forearmes regions at least 48
hours before the study beginning. On appraisers forearms 5cm diameter circles were marked, on
which 25 μL of each test product were randomly applied. With index and middle fingers, the product
was spread with 15 circular (rotary) movements and constant speed. Appraisers have individually applied each one of the test products in a blind study. Upon each
application, they filled in a questionnaire quantifying attributes and defining the sensory profile. Scores of each attribute were evaluated by the bimodal, non-paired Student t-test, considering a 95%
confidence interval. The softwares Microsoft Office Excel 2010 (Microsoft Corp., USA, 2010) were used
in the data analysis and the GraphPadTM Prism® 6.0 (GraphPad Software, San Diego, Califórnia - USA)
was used in the statistical analysis. RESULTS Graphs 1 and 2 below show averages recorded in the sensory profile evaluation during and after the
TUCUMÃ BUTTER application, respectively.
* Statistical significance p<0.05 compared to SILICONE DIMETICONE.
Graph 1. Graphic representation of average scores obtained during the application of TUCUMÃ BUTTER and
SILICONE DIMETICONE.
* Statistical significance p<0.05 compared to SILICONE DIMETICONE.
Graph 2. Graphic representation of average scores obtained after the application of TUCUMÃ BUTTER and
SILICONE DIMETICONE.
According to results showed in Graphs 1 e 2, scores reached by TUCUMÃ BUTTER and SILICONE
DIMETICONE are statistically equal. Therefore, the butter can be presented as a natural alternative to
the use of this commercial silicone, maintaining the same sensory profile in formulations.
CONCLUSION
From results of the descriptive and comparative sensory analysis of test products, it is possible to see
that TUCUMÃ BUTTER reached results that are statistically equal to those obtained by SILICONE
DIMETICONE in all features evaluated, and thus it may be presented as a natural alternative to the use
of silicones in the improvement of cosmetic textures, and it is able to keep the same sensory profile
given by silicones, besides bringing additional benefits to skincare, haircare, and environment health.
BERACA INGREDIENTES NATURAIS S.A.
Rodovia BR 316, Km 08, Quadra 03, Lote 03
Levilândia - Ananindeua
Pará - Brazil
Phone: +55 (91) 3215-5200