guide to rural wales - south powys

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F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna

Looking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop? www.findsomewhere.co.uk

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LOCATOR MAP

ADVERTISERS AND PLACES OF INTEREST

POWYS

MERTHYRBLAENAU GWENT

C E R E D I G I O N

Pontrilas

Willersley

Weobley

Pembridge

Peterchurch

Whitney-on-Wye

EwyasHarold

Clun

Aston-on-Clun

Llanvetherine

Three Cocks

Talgarth

LlangamarchWells

Llanfihangel-nant-Melan

Bwlch

Erwood

Llangynidr

Newbridge on Wye

Beulah

Llangors

GlasburyPumsaint

Llangadog

Sennybridge

Crugybar

Llanwrda

BrynamanAbercraf

Glyn-Neath

Walton

Dolfor

Whitton

CwmystwythYsbytyYstwyth

Devil'sBridge

Pontrhydfendigaid

Ponterwyd

Llanbister

Pant-y-dwr

ElanVillage

New Radnor

LydburyNorth

Newcastle

BlaenDyryn

Pwllgloyw

LlanwrtydWells

Pentre-llwyn-llwyd

Alltmawr

Lower Chapel

UpperChapel

Cynghordy

Crai

Trecastle

Twynllanan

Lledrod

Newchurch

LlanbadarnFynydd

Tylwch

BleddfaAdforton

NewInvention

HoptonHeath

Titley

Turnastone

Crossgates

Nantmel

Llandinam

PantMawr

Myddfai

Cilycwm

Maerdy

Libanus

Defynnog

Glyntawe

Acton

Llanthony

Ystalyfera

Pontardawe

Hirwaun

New Tredegar

Kington

Ebbw Vale

Tredegar

Brecon

Hay-on-Wye

Tregaron

r

Gwaun-Cae-Gurwen

Llandovery

Blaenavon

Crickhowell

Brynmawr

BuilthWells

Presteigne

Knighton

LlandrindodWells

Llandeilo

Llangurig

Llanidloes

Rhayader

Abergavenny

MerthyrTydfil

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Accommodation, Food and Drink2| Tower House Gallery, Knighton pg 8

3| The Knighton Hotel, Knighton pg 9

4| Bryn Heulog Guest House, Llanfairwaterdine pg 10

5| Radnorshire Arms Hotel, Presteigne pg 11

6| Swan At Hay, Hay on Wye pg 13

7| Old Black Lion, Hay on Wye pg 14

10| The Granary Cafe Restaurant, Hay on Wye pg 17

11| Holly Bush Inn and Campsite, Llanigon pg 18

12| River Cafe and B&B at Glasbury, Glasbury on Wye pg 18

13| Pilgrims Tea Rooms, Brecon pg 24

14| Alltybrain Farm Cottages, Llandefaelog Fach,

nr Brecon pg 25

15| Pwllgloyw Arms, Pwllgloyw, nr Brecon pg 25

17| The Courtroom Café, Crickhowell pg 29

19| Hall Farm Barn, Llangenny, nr Crickhowell pg 33

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At one time the southern part of the county

of Powys was best known for its four spa

towns, Llandrindod Wells, Builth Wells,

Llangammarch Wells and Llanwrtyd Wells.

Today, the lure of sulphurous waters has lost

much of its appeal but all four of them

retain a charm and elegance that seems to be

an intrinsic characteristic of spa towns

everywhere. Surrounding these elegant towns

is a varied countryside ranging from the

bulky Cambrian Mountains in the west to

fertile farmland in the east. Close to

Rhayader are the spectacular reservoirs and

dams that make up the scenic Elan Valley.

Built at the end of the 19th century to supply

water to the West Midlands, the reservoirs are

a great feat of Victorian engineering, and the

surrounding hills are home to one of

Britain’s rarest and most beautiful birds – the

red kite.

Further south lies the Brecon Beacons

National Park, which takes its name from the

distinctively shaped sandstone mountains of

the Brecon Beacons. Two other ranges lie

South Powys & Brecon Beacons

within the park’s 519 square miles. To the

east of the Brecon Beacons rise the

interlocking peaks of the Black Mountains,

which stretch to the English border; to the

west is Black Mountain, which, though its

name is singular, refers to an unpopulated

range of barren, smooth-humped peaks. One

of the area’s most impressive natural features

lies underground – the largest complex of

underground caverns in northern Europe can

be explored just outside Craig-y-Nos.

Perhaps because the population here has

always been sparse, there are few buildings of

special note. A major exception is Brecon

Cathedral, “half church of God and half

castle against the Welsh”. Museums of

particular interest include the National Cycle

Collection in Llandrindod Wells, and

bookworms will surely find irresistible a visit

to Hay-on-Wye, the ‘second-hand book capital

of the world’. Equally, aficionados of

eccentric sports will be drawn to Llanwrtyd

Wells in August for the annual World Bog

Snorkelling Championship.

Activities

1| Llandrindod Wells Victorian Festival,

Llandrindod Wells pg 4


Antiques and Restoration

16| Trecastle Antiques and Salvage Centre, Trecastle pg 28

Arts and Crafts

2| Tower House Gallery, Knighton pg 8

8| The Hay Makers, Hay on Wye pg 15

9| Number Two, Hay on Wye pg 16


Fashions


Gifts9| Number Two, Hay on Wye pg 16

Home and Garden



Jewellery


Places of Interest

1| Llandrindod Wells Victorian Festival,

Llandrindod Wells pg 4


Specialist Food and Drink Shops

8| Welsh Venison Centre, Bwlch, nr Crickhowell pg 31

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Llandrindod Wells

A Old Parish Church of Llandrindod

E Bailey Einion E Abercamlo Bog

I Victorian Festival D Radnor Forest

A Parish Church of the Holy Trinity

B Radnorshire Museum

B National Cycle Collection C Castell Collen

C Heart of Wales Line D Rock Park

The most elegant of the spa towns of mid-

Wales, Llandrindod Wells is still a popular

place that has retained much of its Victorian

and Edwardian character and architecture. It

was only a scattering of cottages and two

churches until 1749 when the first hotel was

built here. It had several hundred rooms and

its facilities included hairdressers, milliners

and glovers. There was a billiards room and

large function rooms for balls and assemblies.

And visitors could also sample the spa

waters, which had been known about since

Roman times.

But it was not until the coming of the

Central Wales Railway in 1866, along with the

Victorians’ enthusiasm for taking the waters

that Llandrindod Wells really developed into a

spa town. At the peak of the town’s prosperity

some 80,000 visitors a year came to take the

Llandrindod Wells

Victorian Festival

Victorian Festival Office, Wadham House,Middleton Street, Llandrindod Wells,Powys LD1 5DGTel: 01597 823441e-mail : [email protected]: www.vicfest.co.uk

Each year Llandrindod Wells hosts a Victorian

festival. Held in the last full week of August

before the Bank Holiday, this popular festival is going from strength to strength and has

now become one of the premier Victorian festivals in Britain today. As Llandrindod was a

thriving spa resort in the Victorian era it is natural to base the festival on the Victorian

theme. The town’s unspoilt architecture provides a perfect backdrop to the celebrations and,

on Temple Gardens, there is an ideal venue for the many different types of street

entertainment provided free for the visitors and townsfolk throughout the day.

The aim of the festival is to provide a family fun festival and to cater for all ages and

tastes, whilst keeping to a Victorian theme. Attracting some 40,000 visitors to a town that

has a population of only 5,000 is no mean feat, but the apparent ease with which it is done

is largely due to the transformation achieved in the town’s reversion to the Victorian era.

The effect of horses and carriages, Victorian window displays and the townspeople and

some visitors sporting a whole range of appropriate costumes creates an atmosphere, the

effect of which is nothing short of miraculous.

At the end of the nine days, the proceedings are closed in the grandest of manners with

the moving torchlight procession and fireworks display over the lake - a spectacle not to be

missed.

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waters in an attempt to obtain relief from

ailments ranging from gout, rheumatism and

anaemia to diabetes, dyspepsia and liver

trouble. Special baths and heat and massage

treatments were also available.

The most famous of the individual spas in

Llandrindod during its heyday, Rock Park is a

typically well laid out Victorian park where

visitors coming to the town would take a walk

between their treatments. With particularly

fine tree planting and shrubbery, the park is

still a very pleasant place.

Today’s visitors can find out more about

the town’s history at the Radnorshire

Museum in Temple Street where there is a

display of Victorian artefacts, a large

collection of photographs and exhibits on

social history. There’s also a collection of

relics excavated from Castell Collen, a

Roman fort to the northwest of the town

that was occupied from the 1st century

through to the early 4th century and whose

earthworks are clearly detectable today.

Located in the Automobile Palace, a

distinctive Art Deco brick garage topped by

rows of white lions, is the National Cycle

Collection, an exhibition that covers almost

200 years of cycling history through an

amazing collection of more than 200 bicycles

and tricycles. Some date back as far as 1818,

and the collection spans every development

from the hobby horse and bone-shaker to the

high-tech machines of today. Also here are

old photographs and posters, historic

replicas, the Dunlop tyre story and displays

on cycling stars.

Each year in the last full week of August,

Llandrindod Wells hosts a Victorian Festival,

swelling the population of the town from its

resident 5000 to more than 40,000. Horses

and carriages, Victorian window displays,

townspeople and visitors in period garb, all

contribute to the jollity, which culminates in a

torchlight procession and a fireworks display

over the lake. And the Royal Welsh Show, the

largest agricultural show in the UK, is held in

July each year at Llanelwedd, six miles south

of Llandrindod Wells,

There are still two Anglican churches

serving Llandrindod Wells. The Old Parish

Church of Llandrindod (“The Church of

the Holy Trinity”), just outside the town, is

13th-century, though its roof was later

removed to encourage people to attend the

new church in the town. It was rebuilt in 1894.

The Parish Church of the Holy Trinity

within the town was built in 1871, and is a

much larger and grander affair.

Just outside Llandrindod Wells, off the A44

Rhayader road, there is free access to

Abercamlo Bog, 12 acres of wet pasture that

are home to water-loving plants, breeding

birds such as the whinchat and reed bunting,

and butterflies. Not far away, at Ithon gorge, is

Bailey Einion, woodland home to lady fern,

golden saxifrage, pied flycatchers,

woodpeckers and cardinal beetles.

Wales is famous for its amazing little

narrow-gauge railways, but it also has some

full-size trains, too. One of the most popular

tourist lines is the Heart of Wales Line that

runs from Shrewsbury to Swansea, ‘one line

that visits two viaducts, three castles, four spa

towns, five counties, six tunnels and seven

bridges’. Dolau, six miles to the northeast of

Llandrindod Wells, is the best starting point

on the line to walk to the top of Radnor

Forest, the highest point in the old county

of Radnorshire. Llanbister Road and

Llangunllo are nearby request halts ideally

placed for discovering the remoter scenic

delights of the area.

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Around Llandrindod

Wells

ABBEY-CWM-HIR

6 miles N of Llandrindod Wells off the A483

A Cwmhir Abbey A The Hall at Abbey-Cwm-Hir

Standing rather forlornly in the lonely

Clywedog Valley are the scant remains of

Cwmhir Abbey, founded in 1143 by the

Cistercians who had grandiose plans to build

one of the largest churches in Britain. They

planned a nave more than 242ft long – only

the cathedrals of Durham, Winchester and

York have a longer nave. Unfortunately, an

attack by Henry III in 1231 forced them to

abandon their plans. There is a memorial stone

on the altar to Llywelyn the Last that marks,

many believe, the grave of his headless body –

the head had been despatched to London.

Overlooking the abbey ruins is The Hall at

Abbey-Cwm-Hir, which has been described as

one of the finest examples of Victorian Gothic

Revival architecture in Wales. It was built in

1834 and doubled in size in 1869. Paul and

Victoria Humpherston bought the house in

1997 and spent the next 9 years restoring it to

its original splendour, a process recorded in

several TV documentaries. They now personally

conduct visitors around the 52 public rooms

where features such as marble fireplaces, rococo

ceilings, gothic windows, Victorian bell pulls,

stained glass ceilings and Minton Hollins tiled

floors are all still in place. The formal rooms,

the entrance hall, billiards, library, drawing and

dining rooms are particularly noteworthy. There

are various collections on display, amongst them

clocks, phonographs, vintage signs and

packaging, china and vehicles. Outside, the 12

acres of landscaped grounds include 4 terraces,

a walled garden, lake and waterfall.

RHAYADER

6½ miles NW of Llandrindod Wells on the A44

A Rhayader Castle E Gigrin Farm

E Gilfach Farm Nature Reserve F Rebecca Riots

H Welsh Royal Crystal J Wye Valley Walk

Often referred to as the Gateway to the

Lakeland of Wales, Rhayader lies within a loop

of the River Wye at the entrance to the

magnificent Elan Valley, with its impressive

collection of dams and reservoirs. This town,

whose name means ‘Waterfall of the Wye’,

dates back to the 5th century, though the

waterfall all but disappeared with the

construction of a bridge over the river in 1780.

The older part of the town contains a wide

variety of architectural styles ranging from the

17th century Old Swan pub and Ye Olde

Corner Shoppe, through dignified Georgian

buildings and grand Victorian public buildings

such as the Old Police Station and Courthouse.

Throughout the year the town holds regular

markets for sheep, cattle and ponies, and the

May Fair is still held as it was when it doubled

as a hiring fair for farm workers.

Little except some defensive ditches remains

of Rhayader Castle, built here by Rhys ap

Gryffydd in about 1177. More recently,

Rhayader was the scene of some of the

Rebecca Riots protesting against toll gates

The men, who dressed up as women to disguise

Cwmhir Abbey, Abbey-Cwm-Hir

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themselves, earning themselves the nickname

Rebecca’s Daughters, destroyed turnpikes in

protest at the high toll charges. Many tall stories

have grown up around these riots. Some of

them concern Rebecca herself who is said to

have appeared as an old blind woman at the toll

gate and said, “My children, something is in my

way. ” The first gate to be destroyed was at Yr

Efail Wen, where ‘Rebecca’ proved to be a huge

man called Thomas Rees. Many toll gates were

demolished by the protesters until, in 1844, the

remainder were removed legally. Welsh Royal

Crystal is the only manufacturer of hand-

crafted lead crystal tableware and gift items in

Wales. Located just to the east of the town, the

factory takes visitors on a guided tour to watch

the craftsmen at work producing a wide range

of items from stemware to large bowls, with

exclusive Celtic designs that incorporate ancient

Celtic motifs. Glass-blowing demonstrations

take place on certain days and there’s a well-

stocked shop selling Welsh Crystal products at

bargain prices.

Rhayader is at one end of the beautiful

Wye Valley Walk, which follows the river

valley, criss-crossing the border, through

Builth Wells and Hay-on-Wye to Hereford,

Monmouth and Chepstow.

Mid-Wales was home to the last remaining

native Red Kites and thanks to the work of

various conservation bodies today it has the

greatest density and diversity of birds of prey

in southern Britain. Described as “the best

place to see and photograph these striking

birds” Gigrin Farm, on the outskirts of

Rhayader, has regular feeding sessions and also

operates a rehabilitation centre for injured birds.

ELAN VILLAGE

8 miles W of Llandrindod Wells off the B4518

E Elan Valley E Caben Coch

The village is close to the beautiful reservoirs

of the Elan Valley – a string of five dammed

lakes that are together around nine miles long

and were constructed between 1892 and 1903.

Created to supply millions of gallons of water

to Birmingham and the West Midlands, the

first of the dams was opened in 1904 by

Edward VII and Queen Alexandra, and the

final dam, the Claerwen Dam, was finished in

1952. Dubbed the Lakeland of Wales, the five

man-made lakes are surrounded by

magnificent scenery and have become a

popular area for walkers, cyclists and

birdwatchers. The Elan Valley Visitor Centre,

as well as incorporating a tourist information

office, also has an exhibition telling the story

of the building of the reservoirs and lots of

information about the red kite.

Percy Bysshe Shelley visited his cousin

Thomas Grove at Cwm Elan after being

expelled from Oxford for writing a treatise

supporting atheism. Soon after this visit he

eloped with the schoolgirl Harriet Westbrook

and married her in Scotland. They returned

to Wales and for a brief spell in 1812 stayed

at a house called Nantgwyllt. Like Thomas

Grove’s house, it is now submerged under

the waters of Caben Coch reservoir, but

when the water level is low the walls of the

garden can still be seen.

Elan Village itself is comparatively modern

having been built at the time the dams were

constructed. With its wide streets and sturdy

stone-built houses it is unique in Wales.

ST HARMON

8 miles NW of Llandrindod Wells on the B4518

A Parish Church of St Harmon

E Gilfach Farm Nature Reserve

The Parish Church of St Harmon is

believed to be the last church in Radnorshire

where services were conducted in Welsh; the

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supports an abundance of birds and animals

within a comparatively small area. At the heart

of the farm is a Welsh longhouse, a traditional

building developed over many centuries from

a wooden cruck-framed medieval hall. In an

18th century stone barn opposite there are

exhibitions on both the longhouse and the

surrounding wildlife.

Knighton

A Spaceguard Centre B Offa’s Dyke Centre

C Pinners Hole E Kinsley Wood

J Glyndwr’s Way

Situated in the Teme Valley on the border of

Powys and Shropshire, half in Wales and half

in England, Knighton lies on the path of

Offa’s Dyke. The Welsh name for the town is

Tref-y-Clawdd, which means ‘town of the

last such service was held in 1865. It is also

notable for being the church where the diarist

Francis Kilvert was vicar in 1876 and 1877.

The church was built in 1821 and is a simple

affair with a very short chancel. Kilvert was

curate to his father in Wiltshire before taking

up a post at Clyro in 1865, where he started

his famous diaries. They are detailed, vivid and

very personal accounts of life in the remote

Welsh countryside in mid-Victorian times.

Back to England, then a year here, then back

to Bredwardine in Herefordshire, where he

married. He died five weeks later of

peritonitis, aged only 39.

Occupying a beautiful location where the

Marteg River flows into the River Wye

Gilfach Farm Nature Reserve has a wide

variety of habitats, ranging from high

moorland to enclosed meadow; from oak

woodland to rocky upland river. This diversity

TOWER HOUSE GALLERY

29 High Street, Knighton, Powys, LD7 1ATTel: 01547 529530e-mail: [email protected]: www.thegalleryknighton.co.uk

Situated by the clock tower in the picturesque border

town of Knighton, Tower House Gallery provides an

exhibition venue for the work of the artists and crafts

people of the Welsh Marches. The gallery displays

work in a variety of media – from oils, acrylics and

watercolours to ceramics, textiles and wood.

They also stock a comprehensive range of materials

- from artist and student quality paints, pastels, pencils

and papers to fair-trade buttons, jewellery and textiles.

The stock of glass, crystal and semi precious beads

positively entices you to browse through the cabinets.

Drop in for homemade cakes, breads and soup or try

the range of leaf teas and freshly-ground coffee. Sit

and enjoy the scenery and try out a new hobby! This is

not an experience to be rushed!

Summer Opening: 9.30 to 6.00 Tuesday to

Saturday and 11.00 to 4.00 on Sundays. Winter

Opening 9.30 to 5.00 Tuesday to Saturday.

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THE KNIGHTON HOTEL

Broad Street, Knighton, Powys, Shropshire LD7 1BLTel: 01547 520530 Fax: 01547 520529e-mail: [email protected] website: www.theknighton.com

The Knighton Hotel is now under new management and has recently

been refurbished to an exceptional standard, where every aspect will

impress the most discerning visitor from arrival to reluctant

departure. Its impressive Georgian frontage gives the first taste of

elegance, opening its doors to reveal a handsome freestanding

cantilever hardwood staircase, the only one of its kind in the area.

Many say its worth a visit just to see this feat of architecture; a real

work of craftsmanship. Through the archway, sixteen superior

bedrooms greet guests over two floors with executive suites also

available. All rooms are decadently luxurious and decorated in a

traditional, yet sleek style. Each bedrooms comes with its own en

suite, many equipped with gorgeous free standing baths. Many

rooms offer picturesque views across the surrounding area, stretching the eye out over towards

the hills and the famous Offa’s Dyke.

The hotel also boasts a large function room, a popular choice for weddings and parties to make

any special occasion extra special. The hotel’s restaurant, King’s Offa is open daily between 12-

3pm and 6-8:30pm to both residents and non-residents, as is the bar which offers a separate

games room complete with pool tables and darts boards. Guests can enjoy a range of bar snacks or

some fine a la carte dining, with starters like steamed mussels or melon medley cocktail, and mains

like braised lambs liver in red wine gravy, grilled pork steak with a creamy tarragon and mushroom

sauce and roast crown of turkey served with fresh market vegetables. Desserts include Eaton mess

cheesecake and jumbo profiteroles- wonderfully indulgent.

dyke’. Appropriately, it is home to the Offa’s

Dyke Centre, which has copious information

about the long distance footpath that runs

from Prestatyn to Chepstow. Visitors are

greeted by ‘King Offa’ himself and can find

out more about the historic background to the

8th century dyke and the bloodshed caused by

the battles that continued in the borderlands

for hundreds of years.

Knighton and its near neighbour, the border

town of Presteigne, saw many battles between

the Anglo Saxons and the Celts. “It was

customary for the English to cut off the ears

of every Welshman who was found to the east

of the Dyke (Offa’s), and for the Welsh to

hang every Englishman found to the west of

it”, wrote George Borrow in his 19th-century

book, Wild Wales.

Beginning in Knighton, Glyndwr’s Way

follows the route taken by Owain Glyndwr,

one of Wales’ most famous sons, as he fought

the English for Welsh independence in the

1400s. This scenic and important route travels

southwest to Abbey-Cwm-Hir, passing by the

ancient abbey ruins before heading

northwards into the old county of

Montgomeryshire and the market town of

Llanidloes. The 128 miles of the path take in

some of the finest scenery in mid-Wales

before reaching Machynlleth, from where it

heads southeast and finally ends at the border

town of Welshpool.

The Spaceguard Centre is situated within

the former Powys Observatory. It was created

to observe and track comets and asteroids that

might collide with our planet and, for this

purpose, boasts the most powerful telescope

in Wales. It offers guided tours and has a shop

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BRYN HEULOG GUEST HOUSE

“Sunny Hill”, Llanfairwaterdine, nr Knighton, Powys LD7 1TUTel: 01547 528155e-mail: [email protected]: www.bednbreakfast.co.uk

Nestled into a hillside and standing within beautiful gardens is the

Bryn Heulog Guest House. This large and modern guest house has

been awarded 4 stars by the Welsh Tourist Board and offers

comfortable bed and breakfast accommodation. En-suite family,

double, twin and single rooms are available, equipped with televisions

and tea and coffee making facilities. After enjoying a hearty home

cooked breakfast in the dining room, you will be ready for a day of

exploring.

There is plenty to enjoy from this fantastic location on the border

between Shropshire and Wales. A minimum stay of 2-3 nights is

recommended in order to fully experience what the area has to offer.

This includes many walks, such as Offas Dyke, which crosses the

border between England and Wales more than ten times, The Jack

Mytton Way and the Gwyndwr Way. Hay-on-Wye is only a short 45

minutes drive south, with the West Midlands and Cheshire only 90 minutes drive away.

Across the road from Bryn Heulog Guest House, the Waterdine Inn has a reputation for fine

cuisine and offers light meals and a full a la carte menu at lunch and in the evenings. There is

ample parking at Bryn Heulog and guests have their own private access.

selling astronomy-related gifts.

Beside the banks of the River Teme is

Pinners Hole, a natural amphitheatre that is

strengthened on one side by a superb section

of Offa’s Dyke where there is a stone that

commemorates the opening of the footpath.

Across the river lies Kinsley Wood, a sizeable

area of native oak woodland. Sited on a

hillside, trees of different species were planted

to form the letters “ER” to commemorate the

Coronation of Elizabeth II in 1953.

Around Knighton

BLEDDFA

5½ miles SW of Knighton on the A488

The Parish Church of St Mary Magdalene is

medieval in origin, though its unusual wooden

bell turret dates from 1711, when the west

tower collapsed and was never rebuilt. The

foundations of the tower can still be seen.

Inside, the west end is partitioned off, as it was

formerly a schoolroom. The communion rails

and pulpit are 17th century.

PRESTEIGNE

5 miles S of Knighton on the B4362

A The Radnorshire Arms A Duke’s Arms

A Parish Church of St Andrew B Judge’s Lodging

F Mary Morgan

Once the county town of Radnorshire,

Presteigne is a charming and unspoilt place on

the southern bank of the River Lugg. You

only have to cross a small 17th century stone

bridge to find yourself in England. In recent

years it has seen an influx of escapees from

urban stress and now has a smattering of craft

shops, trendy cafes, antique shops and second-

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hand bookshops. A recent Country Life survey

placed this attractive town in the Top 10 best

places to live in Britain. The AA added that

the road from Presteigne to Aberystwyth was

among the top 10 scenic routes, not just in

Britain, but in Europe.

A border town distinguished by its

handsome black and white half-timbered

buildings, Presteigne grew up around a

Norman castle that has long since gone, the

site now being occupied by a pleasant park.

Presteigne’s history is as turbulent as that of

most of the region. It was captured by the

Mercians in the 8th century, besieged by

Llywelyn in 1262, and pillaged by Owain

Glyndwr in the early 15th century. By Tudor

times the town had got its breath back and

had become a peaceful market centre, but it

was its position on a major mail coach route

between London, Cheltenham, Gloucester

and Aberystwyth that brought it prosperity

and importance.

One of the town’s most outstanding

buildings is The Radnorshire Arms, which

dates from 1616. Originally built as a house

for Sir Christopher Hatton, one of Elizabeth

I’s courtiers, this superb timber framed

building became the property of the Bradshaw

family before becoming an inn in 1792. The

best known member of this family was John

Bradshaw, who was Lord President of the

Parliamentary Commission that brought

Charles I to trial. He headed the list of

signatories to the King’s death warrant,

refusing to let him speak in his defence. The

town also claims the oldest inn in Radnorshire,

the Duke’s Arms. Records show that an inn,

which was burnt down by Owain Glyndwr,

stood here in 1401. The rebuilt inn became a

local headquarters for the Roundheads during

THE RADNORSHIRE ARMS HOTEL

High Street, Presteigne, Powys, Hereford ED8 2BETel: 01544 267 406 Fax: 01544 260418e-mail: [email protected]: www.radnorshirearmshotel.com

One of Presteigne’s most striking buildings is the Radnorshire Arms

Hotel, a 17th century half-timbered structure that was originally

built as a house for Sir Christopher Hatton, one of Elizabeth I’s

leading courtiers.

Presteigne is a perfect base to visit Ludlow, Shropshire and the

Radnorshire Hills, including the famous Offa’s Dyke which forms

the border between Wales and England. This family hotel boasts a

three star rating and has eleven en suite rooms and eight spacious

garden rooms, all en suite and fully equipped to the highest

standard with WiFi access. The garden rooms are pet-friendly and

have a room only or bed and breakfast rate.

For the ultimate dining experience, the Oak Room and The Hattons both offer a superb range of

fresh, home-cooked meals; including vegetarian and special diets which make the most of the

exceptional local and seasonal produce. Other amenities include a residents’ lounge, drying room, a

traditional bar and a large landscaped garden with a children’s play area. There is assisted disabled

access to the garden rooms and full access to the bar and restaurants and parking is via two car

parks, one situated at the front and the other at the rear of the hotel. A garage facility is available

by prior booking for cyclists and motorbikes.

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the Civil War and, in later centuries, was an

important coaching inn. The last ever mail

coach to run in Britain left from here

The Parish Church of St Andrew is

possibly the most handsome church in

Radnorshire. It stands in the valley of the

River Lugg and is originally from Saxon times,

though it was rebuilt in about 1200. The nave

and chancel of the present building are from

the 14th and 15th century.

Although the grand neo-classical Judge’s

Lodging only dates from 1829, it is another

fascinating attraction in Presteigne. Designed

by Edward Haycock and built on the site of

the county gaol, this was the judicial centre for

Radnorshire and the home of the Radnorshire

Constabulary. Today, the house, with its

adjoining court, has been furnished as it would

have appeared in 1870, and visitors can

explore the world of the judges, their servants

and the felons. One of the trials held here

concerned 17-year-old Mary Morgan who in

1805 gave birth to an illegitimate child that her

father persuaded her to murder. Her crime

was detected and she was sentenced to death.

Incredibly, her father was a member of the

jury that found her guilty. In the churchyard

of St Andrew’s there are two gravestones

recalling the event: the first, erected at the

time, is nauseatingly sanctimonious about “the

victim of sin and shame”; the second, set up

later by chastened townspeople, is inscribed

“He that is without sin among you, let him

cast the first stone at her”.

The eminent Australian painter Sidney

Nolan retired to Presteigne and the Sidney

Nolan Trust holds regular exhibitions of his

work and that of other artists at his house,

The Rodd, just outside the town. The Trust

also exhibits at the world-renowned Presteigne

Festival of Music and the Arts, which takes

place every year over the August Bank holiday.

OLD RADNOR

8½ miles S of Knighton off the A44

A Parish Church of St Stephen

Situated on a hill, Old Radnor was once

owned by King Harold. The motte by the

church was the site of his castle. The Parish

Church of St Stephen contains interesting

examples of 14th-century building design, as

well as a huge font made from a glacial

boulder, which may have been a prehistoric

altar. The church’s most notable feature is the

superb late 15th century screen, one of the

finest in Wales. Another remarkable piece of

woodwork in the church is the organ case,

which was built in the 16th century and is the

earliest surviving organ case in the British

Isles. Stephen, or Ystyffan, lived in the 6th

century, and was a member of the royal family

that ruled Powys. The church is the only one

in Wales dedicated to that particular saint.

NEW RADNOR

8½ miles SW of Knighton off the A44

A New Radnor Castle A Parish Church of St Mary

Up until the late 19th century, this small town

was the county town of Radnorshire. Courts

were convened here and justice meted out.

The town is overlooked by an 11th-century

motte, all that remains of its once mighty

castle. Like many other strongholds in this

border region, New Radnor Castle suffered

at various hands. It was destroyed by King

John, rebuilt by Henry III, and destroyed again

by Owain Glyndwr in 1401.

The Parish Church of St Mary stands on

a hill overlooking the village, and is totally

unlike the one at Old Radnor, having been

built between 1843 and 1845. However, a

church has stood here for centuries, and the

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present building incorporates fragments of a

medieval screen in its communion rails and

two worn effigies, no doubt from tombs in an

earlier church built in the 14th century.

New Radnor was the start point in 1187 of

a tour of Wales by Archbishop Baldwin, who

was accompanied by the scholar and

churchman Giraldus Cambrensis. They

preached the Third Crusade, and after the

tour, Baldwin, the first archbishop to visit

Wales, made a pilgrimage to the Holy Land

where he died. Baldwin was the Bishop of

Worcester before becoming Archbishop of

Canterbury, in which capacity he crowned

Richard I.

Hay-on-Wye

A Hay Motte H Festival of Art and Literature

H Hay-on-Wye Craft Centre A Hay Castle

A Clock Tower A Butter Market

A Cheese Market

This ancient town with its network of narrow

streets is noted for its range of galleries well as

antique, print, craft and gift shops. Above all,

it is famous as the ‘second-hand book capital

of the world’.

The first second-hand bookshop was

opened in the former Fire Station in 1961 by

ex-Guards officer Richard Booth. He went on

THE SWAN AT HAY

Church Street, Hay-on-Wye, Powys HR3 5DQTel: 01497 821188e-mail: [email protected] website:www.swanathay.co.uk

Located in the charming Victorian market town of Hay-on-

Wye, The Swan At Hay is nestled between The Black

Mountains and the Brecon Beacons. With the Wye Valley

just moments away, this magnificent hotel is perfectly

placed for guests to enjoy wonderful walks with

breathtaking scenery.

The Swan is run by the Mackintosh family and

occupies a beautiful Grade 2 listed Georgian coaching inn

bursting with charm and character. The hotel has two

restaurants, The Garden Room and The Bistro, serving

award winning food. The garden is the perfect place to

dine alfresco on warm afternoons and evenings.

The menu features classic British favourites including

a traditional Sunday Lunch with some of the largest

Yorkshire puddings you can find! Dishes are created using

locally sourced ingredients including Welsh Marshes lamb,

Herefordshire beef and fresh produce grown in the Wye

Valley. There are many fine wines to accompany your meal

and you can also sample some Wye Valley real ales.

The guest accommodation is full of charm and character

with many of the rooms enjoying period features and views of

the beautiful garden. All 17 rooms differ in shape and size and

include en-suite facilities. In the morning guests enjoy a

delicious full Welsh breakfast.

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THE OLD BLACK LION

Lion Street, Hay-on-Wye, Powys/Hereford HR3 5ADTel: 01497 820841e-mail: [email protected]: www.oldblacklion.co.uk

The Old Black Lion is a 17th Century Inn

full of historic charm and situated in the

heart of Hay-on-Wye close to the original

entrance to the old walled town, once

known as the Lion Gate. Friendly host

Dolan Leighton and her excellent and

efficient staff will warmly welcome you

into the tranquil atmosphere of this four

star inn. The oak timbered bar and comfy

arm chairs are sure to tempt you to enjoy

a drink or two before you unpack your

bags, with an extensive wine list to

choose from as well as a range of local

ales including “The Old Black Lion” brew.

The award winning restaurant

features in the Michelin Guide and has

received many prestigious accolades,

including a well deserved AA rosette.

Also featured on ‘Great Pubs of Wales’

as seen on TV. Diners choose from a

seasonally changing menu with daily

specials including light snacks, lunches

and main meals all imaginatively

produced using the freshest available

ingredients. The best of British produce is

used where possible including locally

reared meat (some organic), locally

sourced fresh seafood and seasonal

vegetables and herbs. The restaurant is

hugely popular so it is advisable to book

a table ahead of your visit.

The guest accommodation comprises

10 individually styled en-suite bedrooms

which enjoy all modern amenities and

comfort and have recently been

sympathetically and tastefully refurbished to a high standard. For a truly decadent experience you

can treat yourself to a stay in the Cromwell Suite, an extra special and luxurious place to unwind.

The suite is sumptuously decorated and even has its own galleried seating area.

Located within some of the most breathtaking scenery in Wales, The Old Black Lion is a stylish

and relaxing place from which to explore the many charms and delights of the historic town of

Hay-on-Wye. With ample car parking, your wheels can take a break as you set out on foot to take

in the stunning scenery of the surrounding Brecon Beacons National Park to the west and the Black

Mountains to the South.

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to convert the New Plaza Cinema. His

bookshops were so successful that in 1971 he

bought Hay Castle and converted part of that

into a bookshop. There are now more than 30

in all, between them stocking more than a

million books on every imaginable subject.

This bookish environment has not however

been entirely free of controversy. On April

Fools Day 1977, Booth crowned himself

‘King of Hay’ as a protest against what he saw

as the corruption and mean-mindedness of

local and national government. He distributed

peerages and issued passports all of which

helped draw attention to this small riverside

town. The process of establishing Hay as a

premier ‘Booktown’ was advanced further

with the establishment in 1988 of an annual

Festival of Literature and the Arts. The

moving spirits behind the festival were the

Florence family who used the proceeds of aClock Tower, Hay-on-Wye

THE HAY MAKERS

St Johns Place, Hay-on-Wye, Powys HR3 5BNTel: 01497 820556e-mail: [email protected]: www.haymakers.co.uk

The Hay Makers is a welcoming and friendly gallery run by a

co-operative of professional designers and craft makers.

Since opening in the 1980s it has gained a reputation for

showcasing and selling an exciting array of original and high

quality arts and crafts.

There is an eclectic range of work on display including

pottery, woodturning, furniture, tin-glazed majolica ceramics,

stone carving, embroidered jewellery, textiles, hand painted

silk ties and printmaking. With an excellent selection of

greetings cards and gift wrap on sale, this is a great place to

find that perfect present for someone special.

Throughout the year there are changing exhibitions showcasing the work of some of the finest

contemporary British craft makers. There is also a fine selection of jewellery and leatherwork

created by craft makers from Timbuktu and the gallery has raised a considerable amount of money

to help these artists trade their way to a more sustainable future.

Located at the foot of the Black Mountains in the world famous book town of Hay-on-Wye, The

Hay Makers is open daily throughout the year, from 10:30am to 5pm Monday to Saturday and

11am to 4pm on Sundays.

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NUMBER TWO

3 & 6 Castle Street, Hay-On-Wye, Powys HR3 5DFTel: 01497 821923e-mail: [email protected]: www.number-two.co.uk

In the unique town of Hay-on-Wye an outstanding shopping

experience awaits at Number Two, where style is all about

combining individual personality with lifestyle needs. Sue

Cutting and her daughter Freya Fiddes lead a creative and

passionate team to provide a friendly and personal service.

Every item of stock is carefully selected to include beautiful

and stylish clothing, shoes, accessories, homeware and

gifts. The products are showcased within two fabulous and

inspiring shops, each open seven days a week.

Number Two Collection is situated at 3 Castle Street

and was the founding store, opening in 1997. Offering

stylish and effortlessly chic womenswear and accessories,

this destination boutique stocks beautiful jewellery and

fashionable bags. Current brands on display include Oska,

Elemente Clemente, Flax and Sahara.

Number Two Style is located on the upper ground floor

at 6 Castle Street. It opened in 2003 and was an

immediate success. There is a vast range of stylish

clothing to choose from including clothes from well known

brands like Sandwich, Jackpot, Part Two and Joules,

among many others. There is also a fantastic selection of

shoes from brands including Fly London, Birkenstock and

Dr Martens.

Number Two Home is the most recent addition, having

opened in April 2010. It can be found on the lower ground

floor at number 6 Castle Street. Inside you will find a

plethora of unusual and individual gifts and items for the

home and garden. There is a stunning array of cushions,

throws and decorative objects for the home from brands

such as eco friendly and fair trade Nkuku. For the kitchen

there is recycled glassware and stylish French stoneware

from Jars while for the bathroom and bedroom there is a

selection of truly luxurious bath & body products by

Branche d’ Olive and funky retro printed towels and

bedding by Orla Kiely.

Green fingered shoppers will delight in the Garden and

Hardware area which hosts wooden trugs and storage

baskets, lanterns and a wealth of decorative garden

accessories. There is stunning ironmongery and curtain

poles created by a local blacksmith alongside prismatic

glass pendant lighting.

The children’s area has a range of unique hand crafted

wooden and soft toys as well as brightly coloured organic

baby clothing. The stationery and greetings area has a fantastic selection of original greetings cards

as well as leather bound journals from Nkuku and beautiful printed notepads from Rosehip.

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poker game to finance it. Ever since, the

festival has taken place over ten days in late

May and early June. It draws thousands of

leading authors and avid readers to the town

and was once described by President Bill

Clinton as a “Woodstock of the mind”.

The town itself is a pleasing mix of

buildings ranging from early timber-framed

structures through handsome early 19th

century Classical style buildings to some

Victorian Gothic examples, notably the

elaborate Clock Tower of 1884. Another

memorable building is the Butter Market,

close to the castle. It was built in classical style

in 1833, restored in 1984, and still serves its

original function as a sheltered area for market

traders and farmers. Nearby, in Memorial

Square, is another building in classical style.

The 2-storey Cheese Market was completed

in 1845 and for many years was used for

meetings of the Town Council. Memorial

Square and the adjacent streets provide the

setting for Hay’s colourful Thursday market.

The impressive Hay-on-Wye Craft Centre

offers visitors a change from books as well as

the opportunity to see craftspeople working at

age-old skills such as glass blowing, wood

turning, pottery and even traditional sweets.

Tucked between the Black Mountains and

the River Wye in the northern corner of the

Brecon Beacons National Park, the town grew

up around Hay Motte, which still survives

across the river from the main town centre.

This castle was eventually replaced by Hay

Castle, although this was all but destroyed in

the early 1400s by Owain Glyndwr. However,

a Jacobean manor house was later grafted on

to part of the remaining walls. As noted

THE GRANARY CAFÉ RESTAURANT

Broad Street, Hay-on-Wye, Powys HR3 5AETel: 01497 820790

Opposite the town clock in Hay-on-Wye, The Granary Cafe

Restaurant is one of the best-loved eating and meeting places

in town. It was established more than 30 years ago, and the

owners, sisters Caroline Pryce Mason and Jeannette Barker

welcome customers into the traditional inviting surroundings

with an open fire in the main area, hops decorating the

beamed ceiling, a quiet anteroom and a spacious upstairs

room.

On the premises they prepare food at very reasonable

prices, from, usually three soups, interesting salads to

generous main courses and handmade cakes and puddings.

The daily choice of hot dishes might typically include

authentic curries, spicy mediterranean pasta and meat dishes,

fragrant North African tagines, or traditional pies made with

shortcrust pastry and filled with beef, chicken or game. There

are fish cakes, and smoked trout or salmon, all of which are

sourced locally. Apple Strudel, lemon meringue pie,

cheesecakes, pies and crumble are but a few of the puddings,

with merringues, and scones usually available.

The opening hours are 9am-5.30pm, 7 days per week, longer hours including evening meals,

during the Hay Festival, and during the summer holidays.Wifi internet available.

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HOLLY BUSH INN AND CAMPSITE

Llanigon, nr Hay-on-Wye, Herefordshire HR3 5PSTel: 01497 847371e-mail: [email protected]: www.hollybushcamping.co.uk

The vibrant and quirky Hollybush Inn offers 5 beautifully furnished

rooms throughout the year with a choice between 3 en suite double

rooms; some complete with own fireplace, or a family room and 2

twin rooms with a shared bathroom. Guests at the inn and non-

residents can enjoy the lively atmosphere below in the inn’s bar and

restaurant which prides itself on catering for special dietary

requirements such as vegans, vegetarians and more. All meals are

cooked fresh to order with local organic produce so you can really

taste the difference. The bar offers a fine choice of country wines,

real ales and ciders that can be enjoyed within the cosy inn, or

outside in the inn’s spacious beer garden which has access to the

glorious River Wye. Alternately, live music is provided most

weekends from a variety of local performing artists.

The inn also sports its own campsite with options for camping

in fields or wooded areas in either tents, caravans or a range of

fantastic tipis that are available to hire. Guests can enjoy the great

range of outdoor activities the team arrange also which includes kayaking, canoeing, cycling and

hiking, please ring for details.

RIVER CAFÉ & B&B AT GLASBURY

Glasbury Bridge, Glasbury on Wye, Nr Hay on Wye,Powys HR3 5NPTel: 01497 847007 e-mail: [email protected]: www.wyevalleycanoes.co.uk

With a stylish café and comfortable B&B rooms, The River Café &

B&B at Glasbury is one of the most popular establishments of its kind

in the area. Once the village’s post office, it sits right on the banks of

the River Wye, at the highest point at which canoes can be launched.

The café itself is licensed and serves great food. It is spacious and

modern, reflecting its high standards of service and its value for

money prices. Everything from fresh crab pasta and sirloin steak with

salad and chips to homemade lasagne and fresh grilled sea bass is

available, with only the finest and freshest of local produce being used

wherever possible.

The four B&B rooms are extremely comfortable, and furnished and decorated to a high standard

while still retaining a simple, uncluttered look. There are three doubles and a twin, and TVs and

tea/coffee making facilities come as standard. All the rooms are fully en-suite. The café and B&B

rooms are open from Wednesday to Sunday all year.

The café owns Wye Valley Canoes, where, in the summer months, you can hire canoes and

kayaks, and all the accompanying equipment, for a few hours or even a few days on the river.

Packed lunches are available.

Whether you’re a canoeist, a walker, a cyclist or a motorist, you will be made more than

welcome at The River Café and B&B.

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above, the castle was bought in 1971 by

secondhand book magnate Richard Booth and

now incorporates his Hay Castle Books.

Around Hay-on-Wye

CLYRO

2 miles NW of Hay on the A438

A Clyro Castle A Parish Church of St Michael

E Cwm Byddog

This beautifully situated village in the Wye

Valley was once a Roman station although

little remains of that. But the remnants of the

motte and bailey of Clyro Castle, built by the

fiendish William de Braose, can still be seen.

The diarist Francis Kilvert was curate in the

village between 1865 and 1872 and in his

journal he describes both life in the village and

the surrounding area in evocative and elegant

prose. He lived at Ashbrook House, which has

been re-named and is now the Kilvert Art

Gallery. The Parish Church of St Michael,

where he was vicar, was founded in the 12th

century. Apart from the tower, it was rebuilt in

about 1853.

Clyro has another minor literary connection.

Sir Arthur Conan Doyle stayed at the

Baskerville Arms and used the name for his

best-known tale The Hound of the Baskervilles.

A little way north of Clyro, Cwm Byddog

is a 15-acre ancient woodland with pollarded

oaks, bluebells in spring, the remains of a

motte and bailey castle and a variety of birds,

including the blackcap and the garden warbler.

PAINSCASTLE

5 miles NW of Hay on the B4594

A Castell Paen

E Tawny Owl Animal Park and Craft Centre

Sometimes known as Castell Paen, the early

castle here was built in 1130 by Payn

FitzJohnon. A motte that still exists was later

rebuilt in stone and, by the late 12th century,

was in the hands of the notorious William de

Braose. The cruelty of de Braose earned him a

place in Welsh folklore and he was given the

nickname the Ogre of Abergavenny. This was

because he avenged the death of his uncle, the

Earl of Hereford, by inviting several Welsh

princes to Abergavenny Castle for a great

feast. Instead of offering them hospitality, he

had them all butchered. His name has also

been given to several breeds of cattle in Wales,

including the de Braose Maud and

the de Braose David.

In 1198, the castle was attacked

by Gwenwynwyn, Prince of Powys,

but the English army slaughtered

more than 3000 of Gwenwynwyn’s

men. The prince’s dreams of a

united Wales died along with them.

However, de Braose met his match

for cruelty in King John, who

stripped him of his land. He

escaped in disguise to France, where

he died. After her husband’s death,

William’s wife Maud suggested thatClyro Church, Clyro

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John had also killed his nephew Prince Arthur

and for this accusation both she and her

youngest son were imprisoned in Corfe Castle

with little food to keep them alive. Legend has

it that when, some 11 days later, the dungeon

door was opened, both prisoners were dead.

In an attempt to keep herself alive, Maud had

half eaten the cheeks of her son.

Close to the castle remains is an altogether

more pleasant place to visit, the Tawny Owl

Animal Park and Craft Centre, which lies

in the shelter of beautiful hills. Opened in

1998, the park is named after the wild owls

that live in the broad-leafed woodlands

surrounding the farm. As well as the owls

(which are not caged), visitors can also see a

whole range of farm animals at close

quarters. Along with the animals and the

farm trails, there are also traditional country

crafts on display and for sale.

The Parish Church of St Peter is a simple

building with a 14th century nave and a 15th

century chancel, though there is plenty of

evidence of a substantial restoration in the

19th century. Curiously, the chancel floor is

about three feet lower than that of the nave.

Builth Wells

A Parish Church of St Mary C Castle Mound

C Cefn Carn Cafall H Wayside Arts Centre

I Royal Welsh Show Ground D Groe Park

Another spa town of mid Wales, Builth Wells

lies beside the River Wye, which is spanned at

this point by a six-arched bridge. The discovery

of saline springs in 1830 helped Builth Wells

develop from a small market town into a

fashionable spa that became even more popular

with the arrival of the railways towards the end

of the 19th century. As a result, many of the

town’s original narrow streets are lined with

Victorian and Edwardian buildings.

However, the town’s history dates back

much further than just a couple of hundred

years. It grew up around a Norman castle that

changed hands many times during the

struggles with the English. The inhabitants of

Builth Wells earned the nickname ‘traitors of

Bu-allt’ because of their refusal to shelter

Llywelyn the Last from the English in 1282.

As a result, some 20 years later, Llywelyn

partly destroyed the Norman stronghold. At

the Castle Mound only the earthworks

remain of the town’s 13th-century castle that

was built by Edward I on the site of the earlier

motte and bailey structure. The earthworks

can be reached by a footpath from the town

centre. The Parish Church of St Mary was

founded in Norman time, and has a 14th-

century tower, the rest being Victorian. Above

the south porch is a small room.

Since the 1963 opening of the Royal Welsh

Show Ground at Llanelwedd, on the opposite

bank of the Wye, the annual Royal Welsh

Show, held in July, has gained a reputation as

being the premier agricultural show in the

country. Builth Wells is regarded as the centre

for farming and agriculture in Wales and the

show provides an opportunity for the farming

communities to come together at what is

considered to be one of the finest and most

prestigious events of its kind.

Although spa treatments are no longer

available here, Builth Wells remains a popular

touring centre and base. As well as the many

shops and the weekly market on Mondays,

visitors can also enjoy the wide variety of arts

and cultural events held at the Wayside Arts

Centre, take in a film at a cinema that claims

to be the longest-running permanent cinema

in Wales, or just take a pleasant riverside stroll

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through Groe Park.

On the summit of the nearby mountain,

Cefn Carn Cafall, is a cairn that is said to

have been built by King Arthur. The stone on

top of the cairn bears the imprint of a dog’s

paw that, according to local legend, was left by

King Arthur’s dog, Cafall, while they were out

hunting. Arthur built the cairn, placing the

stone on top, and then named the peak. The

story continues that if the stone is removed it

will always return to this spot.

Around Builth Wells

ERWOOD

7 miles SE of Builth Wells on the A470

H Erwood Station Craft Centre and Gallery

Pronounced “Errod”, the village’s name is

actually a corruption of the Welsh ‘Y Rhyd’

(the ford), a name that harks back to the days

when the shallow crossing of the River Wye

here was used by drovers. The Great Western

Railway station at Erwood, closed in 1962, has

been turned into the Erwood Station Craft

Centre and Gallery. The centre has daily

woodturning demonstrations and each month

stages a new exhibition featuring various

craftspeople from weavers to painters,

potters to sculptors. The centre has a

café, two of whose tables are in a

GWR carriage.

CILMERY

3 miles W of Builth Wells on the A483

C Memorial to Llywelyn the Last

This village on the banks of the River

Irfon has a special resonance for

Welsh nationalists. It was here, in

1282, that Llywelyn the Last while

fleeing after the abortive Battle of

Builth, was killed by the English. According to

legend, the place where Llywelyn fell and died

was covered in broom, which then ceased to

grow on the site - in mourning for the loss of

the last native Prince of Wales. Thirteen trees

have been planted here to represent the 13

counties of Wales. The rough hewn stone

Memorial to Llywelyn the Last describes

him as “ein llyw olaf ” (“our last leader”) while

the English tablet beside the monument calls

him “our prince”. Following his death,

Llywelyn’s head was taken to London and

paraded victoriously through the city’s streets.

His death is still marked by a ceremony every

year on 11 December at the memorial stone.

LLANWRTYD WELLS

13 miles W of Builth Wells on the A483

A Cambrian Woollen Mill D Llyn Brianne

G William Williams

I World Bog Snorkelling Championship

Officially the smallest town in Great Britain,

Llanwrtyd Wells also claims to enjoy the

cleanest air in the country. It owes its fame as

a spa town to the local vicar Theophilus Evans

who, in 1732, was walking outside the town

when he came across a sulphur spring. A

sufferer from scurvy himself, he observed

Cambrian Woollen Mill, Llanwrtyd Wells

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healthy frogs swimming in the water, drank

some of it over several days and was cured of

the affliction.

Surrounded by rugged mountains, rolling

hills and the remote moorland of Mynydd

Epynt, Llanwrtyd Wells no longer attracts

visitors for its sulphurous waters but is still a

popular holiday centre, particularly with those

who enjoy bird watching, fishing, walking -

and an eclectic variety of events and festivals

throughout the year. In January there’s a

Roman Saturnalia (dress code: togas), a ‘Man

versus Horse’ race in May, a Folk Weekend in

spring and a late autumn Beer Festival – the

‘Real Ale Wobble’.

However the most unusual of all the events

held here is undoubtedly the annual World

Bog Snorkelling Championship that takes

place each August. Competitors have to swim

two lengths of a specially dug 180ft peat bog

located a mile from the town. The swimmer’s

head must be submerged, and the use of the

arms is forbidden. The latest variation is bog-

snorkelling on mountain bikes!

In the 18th century, William Williams, the

poet, hymn writer and one of the leaders of the

Methodist revival, lived in the town while

another claim to fame is that the Welsh rugby

folk song, Sosban Fach, was written here in 1895.

It translates into English as ‘little saucepan’.

On the outskirts of the town, on the bank of

the River Irfon, the Cambrian Woollen Mill

recalls the rich history of Wales’ rural past. The

first mill was founded in the 1820s, but its

modern form dates from 1918 when it was

opened by the Royal British Legion for the

benefit of servicemen disabled in World War I.

A tour of the mill allows visitors to see

traditional cloths being woven while in the

factory shop there is a wide choice of

beautifully finished items to buy. There’s also a

gift shop, craft shop and studio, and a

restaurant.

On high ground to the northwest of the

town is Llyn Brianne, the latest of Wales’

man-made lakes, which was opened in 1973.

The dam that holds the water is the highest of

its type in the country – at 300 feet – and the

grand scale of the lake has to be seen to be

believed.

LLANGAMMARCH WELLS

8 miles W of Builth Wells off the A483

G John Perry G Theophilus Evans

Situated where the Rivers Irfon and

Cammarch meet, Llangammarch Wells was the

smallest of the Welsh spas. It was renowned

for its barium chloride carrying waters that

were thought to be useful in the treatment of

heart and rheumatic complaints. The old well

and pumphouse are contained in the grounds

of the Lake Country House Hotel. As well as

being the birthplace in 1559 of John Perry, an

influential religious reformer who was hanged

in London in 1593 for treason, this now sleepy

little town was also the home of the

wonderfully named Theophilus Evans. He

was vicar here, discovered the sulphur spring

at Llanwrtyd Wells, which cured the scurvy he

had suffered for years, and he also wrote a

classical historical interpretation of the area

entitled View of the Primitive Age.

ABERGWESYN

12 miles W of Builth Wells off the B4358

D Abergwesyn Pass

Situated in an isolated spot in the Irfon Valley,

Abergwesyn lies on an old drovers’ route that

twists and climbs through the Abergwesyn

Pass. Known as the roof of Wales, this is a

beautiful pathway that, centuries ago, consisted

of nothing more than dirt tracks along which

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the drovers would shepherd cattle and other

livestock from one market town to the next. A

number of drovers’ routes can still be followed,

some in part by car. Many of the roads are

narrow. In the south, one such route begins at

Llandovery and travels across the Epynt

mountain and crosses the ford at Erwood.

NEWBRIDGE ON WYE

4 miles N of Builth Wells on the A470

A Parish Church of All Saints H Drover’s Statue

The Parish Church of All Saints in this large

village at the foot of the Cambrian Mountains

was built in the decorated style in 1883 for the

Venables family of nearby Llysdinam. The

famous diarist, the Rev Francis Kilvert was

chaplain to the Rev Richard Venables who

lived there. The Drover’s Statue on the village

green is a reminder that the village lies on an

old drove road that ran from Tregaron and on

into England. Droving – the driving of cattle,

mainly to the English lowlands for fattening –

was one of Wales’s main industries until the

Industrial Revolution. Drovers needed licenses

to ply their trade, and had to be married, over

30 and a householder. This didn’t stop them

enjoying themselves in inns where they

stopped overnight. Newbridge on Wye had 13

inns and they usually put on dancing, singing,

boxing and wrestling to entertain the drovers.

Brecon

A Brecon Castle B Heritage Centre

A Brecon Cathedral

C Captain’s Walk B Brecknock Museum

C Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal

B South Wales Borderers Museum C Y Gaer

Famous for its ancient cathedral, Georgian

architecture and annual Jazz Festival in August,

the city of Brecon sits on the banks of the

River Usk, at the confluence of the Rivers

Honddu and Tarrell in the heart of the Brecon

Beacons National Park. A major shopping

centre for the area, it hosts a livestock market

every Tuesday and Friday, and a craft market on

the third Saturday of every month.

A walk along the promenade beside the River

Usk leads to the remains of medieval Brecon

Castle. They stand partly in the Bishop’s

Garden and partly in the grounds of the Castle

Hotel. The town grew up around this castle,

which was built in the late 11th century by

Bernard of Newmarch. It was besieged first by

Llywelyn the Last and again during Owain

Glyndwr’s rebellion in the early 15th century. By

the time of the Civil War, Brecon considered its

growing cloth trade so important that it decided

to remain neutral and the townsfolk began

dismantling the castle.

Close by stands Brecon Cathedral, an

impressive and magnificent building that

originated from an 11th century priory

colonised by Benedictine monks from Battle

in Sussex. It was founded by the Norman

knight Bernard of Newmarch who had been

granted the lands by his half brother William

the Conquerer. In the late 1300s the priory

was developed into a fortified building later

described as “half Church of God and half

castle against the Welsh”. Following the

Dissolution of the Monasteries it became

Brecon’s parish church, called the Priory

Church of St John the Evangelist. It was

eventually elevated to a cathedral in 1923 when

the new diocese of Swansea and Brecon was

created. At one time chapels dedicated to

craftsmen filled the aisles, but only that to the

corvisors (shoemakers) remains. An unusual

artefact in the nave of the cathedral is a

cresset stone, a slab of stone in which 30

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‘cups’, 3 inches deep and wide, have been

hollowed out. These would be filled with

tallow and a wick to provide lighting for the

monks’ nocturnal services. Housed in a 16th-

century tithe barn is the cathedral’s imaginative

Heritage Centre.

Some of the town’s old walls survive. One

section, known as Captain’s Walk, recalls the

fact that Napoleonic soldiers were held prisoner

here, with the officers being allowed to exercise

along part of the walls. Found in another of the

town’s old buildings, the elegant and impressive

former Old Shire Hall is the Brecknock

Museum where visitors can see the old assize

court, as well as take in the extensive collection

of artefacts and other items from past

centuries, including the museum’s large

collection of Welsh love spoons.

The town’s second museum is equally

fascinating. The South Wales Borderers

Museum features memorabilia of the

regiment’s famous defence of Rorke’s Drift.

Over 300 years of military history are

recorded here through various displays that

include armoury, uniforms and medals. The

regiment has taken part in every major

campaign and war and has won 29 Victoria

Crosses and over 100 Battle Honours.

However, though its history is long and varied,

it is the regiment’s participation in the Zulu

wars that is best remembered. The regiment’s

bravery was immortalised in the film Zulu

starring Michael Caine. It recalls the heroic

defence of Rorke’s Drift in 1879, when 141

men from the regiment were attacked by 4000

Zulus. Nine VCs were awarded here in a single

day. As well as having the River Usk flowing

through the town, Brecon is also home to the

PILGRIMS

Brecon Cathedral Close, Brecon, Powys LD3 9DPTel: 01874 610610e-mail: [email protected]: www.pilgrims-tearooms.co.uk

Pilgrims award winning tea rooms are situated in the

tranquil walled Close of Brecon Cathedral. The

tearooms retain much of the style of the adjacent

sixteenth century tithe barn, which houses the Cathedral shop

and Heritage Centre Museum (free entry).

The tea rooms are run by Janet Williams who has gained an

impressive reputation for Pilgrims by cooking delicious fresh

meals daily, using local and organic produce whenever possible

and serving it in a warm, friendly atmosphere.

A main menu is available from 12- 2.30p.m. including a

selection of home-made soups and bread, quiches, salads,

sandwiches, jacket potatoes, casseroles, pies and mouth

watering desserts. Traditional Sunday roasts are extremely popular and booking is advisable

Pilgrims is fully licensed serving a selection of wines, local ales, cider and a range of hot and

cold soft drinks. Pilgrims is open daily from 10 until 5pm throughout the year for morning coffee,

lunch and afternoon tea, but closes a little earlier during the winter months. Janet also provides

outside catering for families, bunkhouses and corporate functions. On Fridays and Saturdays extra

bread, welsh cakes, nut-roasts and specialities are baked and can be ordered and collected from

the tearooms.

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Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal, a

beautiful Welsh waterway that used to bring

coal and limestone into the town. Work started

on the canal in 1797, and a superb viaduct

carries it across the River Usk just outside the

town. Currently, some 37 miles of the canal

has been restored and there are attractive

walks along the canal towpath. Pleasure

cruises on both motorised and horse-drawn

barges are available and the canal basin in the

town has been reconstructed and is now

proving to be an attraction in its own right.

The first evidence of a settlement in the

area is the remains of the Roman fort Y Gaer,

which lie two miles west of the town. First

built in around AD75, the fort was rebuilt

twice before it was finally abandoned in about

AD290. A garrison for the 2nd Legion and the

Vettonian Spanish cavalry, parts of the fort

were excavated by Sir Mortimer Wheeler in

1924, and sections of the outer wall – in

places 10 feet high – and traces of gates can

be seen.

In the 5th century, the daughter of the local

ruler was sent to Ireland to marry a local

prince. They had a son, whom they named

Brychan, and he was sent back to Wales to live

with his grandfather. It is from him that the

name of the town and the county is derived.

Brychan’s daughter was Tudful and she

eventually became a holy woman who was

killed by Irish invaders in AD480. It is from

her that the town of Merthyr Tydfil, 20 miles

to the south, gets its name, ‘merthyr’ being the

Welsh for martyr. Well-known natives of

Brecon include Dr Hugh Price, founder of

Jesus College, Oxford, and the celebrated

actress Sarah Siddons who was born in 1755 at

PWLLGLOYW ARMS

Pwllgloyw, Nr Brecon, South Powys LD3 9PYTel: 01874 690282The Pwllgloyw Arms is set within a valley amongst beautiful countryside

and is the only pub situated between the historic market towns of Builth

Wells and Brecon. This welcoming family run pub offers a fantastic menu

of home cooked dishes created using local produce where possible. Inside the cosy bar and lounge

has comfortable sofas and the restaurant seats up to 30 people. Outside there is ample car parking

and a garden area with tables and chairs positioned next to a picturesque stream. The en-suite bed

and breakfast accommodation is comfortably furnished and each room is equipped with a television

and tea and coffee making facilities.

ALLTYBRAIN FARM COTTAGES

Alltybrain Farm, Llandefaelog Fach, Nr Brecon, South Powys LD3 9RBTel: 01874 690214 / 07725 106034 e-mail: [email protected]: www.alltybrainfarmcottages.co.uk

Situated four miles from the market town of Brecon, Alltybrain Farm

Cottages offers five star self catering accommodation in a private and

peaceful location. There are two cottages named “Damson” and “Duck” and each sleep two

people. The adjacent hayloft with dormitory style bedroom sleeps up to four people. Guests can

enjoy spectacular views of Pen y Fan and the Brecon Beacons National Park from every window.

This idyllic rural retreat is located within the grounds of a smallholding with its own orchard,

stream and resident ducks and chickens.

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View from Pen y Fan, Libanusthe Shoulder of Mutton Inn in the

High Street. The inn has since been re-

named the ‘Sarah Siddons Inn’ and has

a plaque commemorating the actress.

Around Brecon

LLANFRYNACH

2 miles S of Brecon on the B4458

A Parish Church of St Brynach

Housed in an 18th century warehouse

in this pretty village, the Water Folk

Museum tells the story of life on the canal.

Horse-drawn boat trips start from here, and

sometimes a blacksmith can be seen at work.

The Parish Church of St Brynach is

Victorian, though it has a medieval tower. St

Brynach was Irish and came to Wales in the

6th century to preach and spread Christianity.

On arriving in what is now Pembrokeshire, he

caught the eye of the daughter of a local

chieftain. He resisted her advances and was

then attacked and beaten for doing so.

LIBANUS

4 miles SW of Brecon on the A470

B National Park Visitor Centre

C Twyn y Gaer D Corn Du D Pen y Fan

C Bedd Illtyd D Brecon Beacons National Park

To the northwest of this attractive hamlet on

Mynydd Illtyd common is the National Park

Visitor Centre where visitors can find out

about the Park from displays and presentations,

and also enjoy refreshments in the tea rooms.

There are some interesting remains to be seen

in the area. Twyn y Gaer, a Bronze Age burial

chamber, and Bedd Illtyd, a more modest

ancient monument said to be the grave of St

Illtyd, the founder of the monastery at Llantwit

Major. The Brecon Beacons are a small part of

the National Park and were given to the

National Trust in 1965. This gift included the

sandstone peaks of Pen y Fan (at 2906 feet,

the highest point south of Snowdon) and Corn

Du. This area has become one of the most

popular parts of the UK with walkers. The area

is also important for sub-alpine plants and is

designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest.

But the very popularity of the Beacons with

walkers has caused great problems, exacerbated

by military manoeuvres and the sheep that have

grazed here since Tudor times. Erosion is the

biggest problem and the National Trust has put

in place an ambitious programme of footpath

and erosion repair.

YSTRADFELLTE

12 miles SW of Brecon off the A4059

A Parish Church of St Mary C Maen Madog

D Fan Llia D Fan Nedd D Porth-yr-Ogof

This village is a recognised hiking centre and

the area of classic limestone countryside

around it is one of the most impressive in the

British Isles. The Parish Church of St Mary is

mainly 16th century, and has a font of the same

date. The narrow road heading north from the

village climbs sharply and squeezes its way

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along a narrow valley between the 2074-feet

high Fan Llia on the east side, and the 2176-

feet high Fan Nedd on the west. The Maen

Madog is a nine-foot high standing stone with

a Latin inscription proclaiming that Dervacius,

son of Justus, lies here.

To the south of Ystradfellte is Porth-yr-

Ogof, a delightful area with a collection of

dramatic waterfalls as the River Mellte

descends through woodland.

YSTRADGYNLAIS

18½ miles SW of Brecon on the B4599

F Y Garn Goch

Situated at the top end of the Tawe Valley,

which stretches down to the city of Swansea,

and close to the boundary of the Brecon

Beacons National Park, Ystradgynlais is a

former mining community. Iron was produced

here as far back as the early 17th century and

the legacy of this industrious past can still be

seen, although the area surrounding the village

is known as waterfall country and is popular

with walkers, ramblers and cavers.

A local legend tells of three cauldrons, filled

with gold, that are buried beneath Y Garn

Goch – the red cairn – on the summit of

Mynydd y Drum, to the east of the town. The

story goes that one day a young girl will come

to claim the treasure, which, until then, is

protected by demons. To prevent anyone

trying to take the gold, the legend also tells of

a wizard and his apprentice who attempted to

overcome the demons with their magic. While

the elements raged, a spirit on a wheel of fire

swept the apprentice out of the protective

circle he had made and gave him a lighted

candle, saying that as long as the candle

burned his life would last. As soon as the

candle was spent the apprentice died and the

wizard, terrified, fled from the mountain.

CRAIG-Y-NOS

15½ miles SW of Brecon on the A4067

A Craig-y-Nos Castle B Dinosaur Park

B MorganBros. Shire Horse Centre

D Craig-y-Nos Country Park

D National Showcaves Centre for Wales

B Iron Age Farm

The National Showcaves Centre for Wales

is centred on the largest complex of caverns in

northern Europe, and lies to the north of this

village. Discovered by local farmers in 1912,

the caverns have taken 315 million years to

form and they include both the longest and

the largest showcaves in Britain. The Cathedral

Cave, as its name suggests, is like the interior

of a great cathedral, and modern lighting and

music accentuate the atmosphere. Near the

entrance is a display on cave dwellers of the

past. Dan-yr-Ogof has a series of lakes

connected by passages, which you can explore

as well. Within Bone Cave, 42 human

skeletons have been discovered, many of them

dating back over 3000 years to the Bronze

Age. Deer bones more than 7000 years old

have also been discovered. Exploring the

underground caverns is only one aspect of

this interesting attraction. There is also an

award-winning Dinosaur Park, where life-size

replicas of the creatures that roamed the earth

during Jurassic times can be seen

At the Morgan Bros. Shire Horse Centre,

Twm the ‘talking sheepdog’ takes visitors on a

fascinating journey back in time to when Shire

horses reigned supreme at ‘Dan-yr-Ogof

Farm’. You can meet Dai the blacksmith and

visit Tommy Morgan in his Victorian kitchen.

The magnificent shire horses still pull farm

wagons around and the other farm animals are

never far away - Shetland ponies, donkeys,

Welsh cobs, alpacas, cows, goats, pigs, ducks

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and geese are all to be seen. The replica Iron

Age Farm gives a realistic idea of how the

farmers lived in that era.

To the east of the village lies Craig-y-Nos

Country Park where visitors can enjoy the

unspoilt countryside and the landscaped

country parkland of the upper Tawe Valley.

The mansion in the country park, known as

Craig-y-Nos Castle, was once the home of

the 19th-century opera singer Madame

Adelina Patti. She bought the estate in 1878 as

a home for herself and her second husband,

the tenor Ernesto Nicolini. She installed an

aviary, a little theatre modelled on Drury Lane,

and a winter garden that was subsequently

moved to Swansea’s Victoria Park. Patti was

born in Madrid in 1843, the daughter of a

Sicilian tenor, and achieved fame in New York

at an early age. Her first husband was the

Marquis de Caux, her second Ernesto

Nicolini, and her third the Swedish Baron

Cedarström, whom she married in the Roman

Catholic church at Brecon in 1898. The castle

is now a hotel.

SENNYBRIDGE

7½ miles W of Brecon on the A40

A Castell Ddu B Disgwylfa Conservation Centre

Situated along the southern edge of the

Mynydd Epynt and on the northern border of

the Brecon Beacons National Park, this village

is very much a product of the industrial age. It

only began to develop after the railways

arrived here in 1872, when it became a centre

for livestock trading. However, the remains of

Castell Ddu, just to the west of the village,

provides evidence of life here from an earlier

time. Dating from the 14th century, this was

the home of Sir Reginald Aubrey, trusted

friend of Bernard of Newmarch, a Norman

TRECASTLE ANTIQUES AND SALVAGE CENTRE

Trecastle, Powys LD3 8UNTel: 01874 638007website: www.trecastleantiques.co.uk / www.kingdomofrust.co.uk /www.upcyclers.co.uk

On the main A40 trunk road at the edge of the stunning Brecon

Beacons national park lies the village of Trecastle. During the 19th

centuaryTrecastle was an important coaching stop and

incorporated 16 shops,2 schools and held 8 annual fairs!

Now one of the old schools has become home to Trecastle

Antiques and Salvage Centre for the past 14 years. As 11

diverse antique and reclamation dealers from the locality,we aim

to offer a wide range of wonderful,lovingly restored treasures.

Our stock is fascinating and extensive,traditional through to

recycled retro.Country and renovated furniture along with

agricultural bygones,tools,salvage and gardenalia reflect our rural

surroundings.

If you are looking for inspiration for the home then

pictures,rugs,kitchenalia,records,books and collectable’s are all

here,alongside jewelry,vintage clothing,medals and much much

more.

A warm welcome to everyone 7 days a week including all

bank holidays 10am-5pm.

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knight who was granted tracts of land in the

area in the 11th-century, and who founded

Brecon Priory. Two waymarked walks have

been opened on the Sennybridge army training

area, beginning at Disgwylfa Conservation

Centre on the B4519. The centre has an

interactive learning centre and military and

conservation displays. One of the walks is

accessible to disabled visitors.

Crickhowell

A Crickhowell Castle

A Parish Church of St Edmund

A Crickhowell Bridge C Crug Hywell

E Pwll-y-Wrach Nature Reserve

Situated in the beautiful valley of the River

Usk and with a backdrop of the Black

Mountains that rise to the north, Crickhowell

is a charming little town with a long history.

The town takes its name from the Iron Age

fort, Crug Hywell (Howell’s Fort) that stands

on the flat-topped hill above the town that is

aptly named Table Mountain. The remains of

another stronghold, Crickhowell Castle, can

be found in the town’s large park. This was

once one of the most important fortresses in

this mountainous region of Wales. Built in the

11th century, it is also known as Alisby Castle,

after a Norman knight who once owned it.

Only the motte and two shattered towers

remain of the Norman fortress, which was

stormed by Owain Glyndwr and abandoned in

the 15th century.

The most impressive structure in this

thriving market town is the picturesque and

famous Crickhowell Bridge, which dates

from the 17th century and spans the River

Usk in the heart of the town. Still carrying

THE COURTROOM CAFE

High Street, Crickhowell NP8 1BDTel: 01873 812497

Heart warming food

from the heart of Crickhowell

The Courtroom Cafe offers delicious home-made hot meals, salads,

snacks and cakes, all freshly prepared on the premises, using locally

sourced ingredients combined with over 30 years of catering

experience. The family ran cafe offers a wide menu full of wholesome

and heart warming food, with everything available to take away,

making it a favourite amongst the local community and a real treat for

visitors to the picturesque market town of Crickhowell.

Situated in the regal surroundings of first floor of the town’s

Victorian courtroom, it provides a unique outlook across the heart of

the town for up to 40 diners. Both Child and disabled friendly and

complete with wheelchair lift, you can relax and watch the world go

by whether it be over a traditional breakfast, lunchtime meal or

afternoon tea.

Open 9am -5pm Mon – Friday, 10am – 4pm Sun

Call 01873 812 497 if you wish to make a reservation

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traffic today, the bridge is unique in that it has

13 arches visible on one side and only 12 on

the other! For the rest, this is a pleasant place

to explore, with some fine Georgian

architecture and an imposing parish church. St

Edmund’s was founded in the 12th century

by Lady Sybil Pauncefote whose father, Sir

Hugh Turberville, owned the castle. Effigies

of Sybil and her husband, the wonderfully

named Sir Grimbald, can be seen in the

sanctuary. In the graveyard is buried Sir

George Everest, the Surveyor-General in India

after whom the world’s highest mountain was

named. He was born in what is now the

Manor Hotel in Crickhowell in 1790.

Crickhowell is popular with those looking

for outdoor activities such as walking because

of its close proximity to the Black Mountains

and the National Park. Close by is Pwll-y-

Wrach Nature Reserve in a steep-sided

valley. Owned by the Brecknock Wildlife

Trust, this woodland reserve has a waterfall

and also a great variety of flora, for which it

has been designated a Site of Special

Scientific Interest.

Around Crickhowell

TRETOWER

2½ miles NW of Crickhowell on the A479

A Tretower Court and Gardens A Tretower Castle

This quiet village in the Usk Valley boasts two

impressive medieval buildings – Tretower

Court and Gardens and Tretower Castle

(both administered by CADW). The elder of

these historic sites is the castle, though all that

remains on the site of the original Norman

motte is a stark keep that dates from the 13th

century. The castle was built in this valley to

discourage Welsh rebellion but, nevertheless, it

was besieged by Llywelyn the Last and almost

destroyed by Owain Glyndwr in 1403.

Adjacent to the castle remains stands the

Court, a magnificent fortified manor house

with its origins in the 15th century. It served

as a very desirable domestic residence for the

Picard family right up until 1783 and many

additions and alterations were made during

those years. The 15th-century woodwork here

and the wall walk, with

its 17th-century roof

and windows, are

outstanding. The fact

that the rooms are

devoid of furnishings

or works of art draws

the eye instead to the

details of the

remarkable medieval

craftsmanship of the

architecture. The

Court’s gardens are

particularly interesting.

The original late 15th-

century layout of the

gardens has been re-

Crickhowell Castle

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created in such a manner that the owner of

the time, Sir Roger Vaughan, would still

recognise them. Among the many delightful

features here are a tunnel arbour planted with

vines and white roses (Sir Roger was a

Yorkist), an enclosed arbour and a

chequerboard garden. They are all best seen in

the early summer.

TALYBONT-ON-USK

7 miles NW of Crickhowell on the B4558

D Talybont Reservoir

Strictly speaking this attractive village should

be called Talybont-on-Caerfanell since it is that

river that flows through it to join the Usk just

to the south. Nearby, the Monmouthshire and

Brecon Canal passes through the 375-yard

long Ashford Tunnel. When it opened in 1800,

boats were ‘legged’ through the tunnel with

the navigators lying on their backs and

‘walking’ along the walls. Further south lies the

Talybont Reservoir, constructed in the 1930s.

In this narrow wooded valley on the southeast

slopes of the Brecons there are several forest

trails starting from the car park at the far end

of the reservoir.

LLANGORS

8 miles NW of Crickhowell on the B4560

A Parish Church of St Paulinus

D Llangors Lake I Llangorse Multi-Activity Centre

The Parish Church of St Paulinus dates

from the 15th century, though there was much

rebuilding in Victorian times. It may have been

built on the site of a monastery that was

founded in the 7th century and continued up

until the 11th century. To the south of the

village, which is sometimes spelled Llangorse,

WELSH VENISON CENTRE

Beacons Farm Shop, Middlewood Farm, Bwlch,Nr Brecon LD3 7HQTel: 01874 730929 Fax: 01874 730556e-mail: [email protected]: www.welshvenisoncentre.co.uk andwww.beaconfarmshop.co.uk

The Welsh Venison Centre can be found in the

heart of the Brecon Beacons National Park

near the village of Bwlch. Offering a large choice of locally

produced meats and specialising in venison, the firm was

established in 1985 and is owned and run by Andrew and Elaine

Morgan. They are passionate about putting the customer first and

superb animal husbandry alongside the highest standards of animal welfare is paramount.

With decades of experience in farming, breeding and protecting deer, the Welsh Venison Centre

produces premium quality venison for wholesale. New purpose built premises opened in 2006 and

also house the Beacons Farm Shop selling lamb, beef, pork, specialist meats and sausages

alongside vegetables, fresh milk, fruit juices and free range eggs. There is also an extensive

delicatessen department and a range of gifts and items for the home including deer and sheepskin

rugs.

The centre is open from Monday to Saturday, including Bank Holidays, and it is just 40 minutes

from Cardiff and the Severn Bridge. The Welsh Venison Centre visits many well known festivals

around the country and they offer outside catering for events as well as a nationwide mail order

service.

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lies the largest natural lake in South Wales -

Llangors Lake (Llyn Syfaddan). Around four

miles in circumference and following its way

round a low contour in the Brecon Beacons,

the waters of this lake were, in medieval times,

thought to have miraculous properties. Traces

of a prehistoric lake village have been found

here and in 1925 a 15ft long oak dug-out

canoe dating from around AD800 was

retrieved. It can be seen in the museum at

Brecon. Today, the lake attracts numerous

visitors looking to enjoy not only the setting,

but also the wide variety of sporting and

leisure activities, such as fishing, horse riding

and sailing, that can be found here. To the east

of the lake, the Langorse Multi-Activity

Centre offers abseiling, potholing, log

climbing, a high-level rope course and an

indoor climbing centre.

Naturally, the lake is associated with a

legend and local stories suggest that the land

beneath the lake once belonged to a cruel and

greedy princess. Though her lover was poor,

she agreed to marry him only if he brought

her great riches. So the lover set out to

accomplish his task and in so doing robbed

and murdered a wealthy merchant, giving the

riches to his princess. However, the merchant’s

ghost returned to warn the happy couple that

their crime would be avenged, not on

them, but on the ninth generation of

their family. One night, years later, a

great flood burst from the hills,

drowning the surrounding land and its

inhabitants. It is still said today that a

city lies beneath the water.

TALGARTH

10½ miles N of Crickhowell on the A479

A Parish Church of St Gwendoline

A Bronllys Castle G Hywell Harris

Lying in the foothills of the Black Mountains,

Talgarth is an attractive market town with

narrow streets that boasts many historic

associations as well as some fine architecture.

The 15th-century Parish Church of St

Gwendoline is the burial place of Hywell

Harris (1714–73), an influential figure in the

establishment of Welsh Methodism. Harris

was also instrumental in establishing a

religious community, ‘The Connexion’, which

was organised on both religious and

industrial lines.

Although this is now a quiet and charming

place, Talgarth once stood against the

Norman drive into Wales. Some of the

defensive structures can still be seen today –

the tower of the church and another 13th

century tower that now houses the Tourist

Information Centre - though it has also served

time as a jail.

On the outskirts of Talgarth stands

Bronllys Castle (CADW), a well-preserved

centuries old keep built by the Norman baron

Bernard of Newmarch. Originally a motte and

bailey castle, it was later replaced with a stone

edifice. It is now a lone 80ft high tower

standing on a steep mound. Currently, only the

exterior may be viewed as the interior is

deemed unsafe.

Sunset across Llyn Llangors Lake

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LLANGYNIDR

4 miles W of Crickhowell on the B4558

C Chartists’ Cave

To the south of this riverside village, on the

open moorland of Mynydd Llangynidr, is the

Chartists’ Cave where members of the

movement stored ammunition during their

active years in the mid-19th century.

LLANGATTOCK

1 mile SW of Crickhowell off the A4077

A Parish Church of St Catwg

E Craig-y-Cilau Nature Reserve

The Parish Church of St Catwg, which was

founded sometime during the early 6th

century, is dedicated to one of Wales’ most

honoured saints. Born in around AD497, by

the end of his life, in around AD577, he had

become a bishop and taken the name Sophias.

The church’s large tower is from the 16th

century while the rest of the building dates

from the 14th century and later. It was

restored in Victorian times, but most of the

medieval features can still be seen.

To the southwest of the village, towards

the boundary of the Brecon Beacons

National Park, lies the Craig-y-Cilau Nature

Reserve. With more than 250 plant species

and over 50 kinds of birds breeding within

the area, this is one of the richest reserves in

the National Park.

HALL FARM BARN

Hall Farm, Llangenny, Crickhowell, Powys NP8 1ETTel: 01873 811200e-mail: [email protected]: www.hall-farm-barn.co.uk

Nestled in the glorious, stunning countryside of the Brecon

Beacons National Park is a luxury home from home. Hall Barn

Farm is a converted mountain stone barn, offering a serene

location for those wishing to escape the busyness of everyday

life on a self catering basis. Previously used by the family farm

as sheep pens, the barn has been skillfully restored, retaining

structure and features, awarding the barn a five star grading

from the Welsh Tourist Board.

The barn has oak flooring running throughout, and is

furnished to a high standard with unique bits and bobs aquired

through the family. The kitchen is modern and is well equipped

with all the much needed necessities. The living room features

original beams, wood burner, large comfy sofas, TV and DVD

player. The cottage sleeps a maximum of 5 people in 3 charming bedrooms each with built in

wardrobes, and there is one large family bathroom with shower and washroom located downstairs.

The games room (situated across the courtyard to the outbuilding) offers the perfect place to have

fun with friends and includes a 3/4 size snooker table and an ‘eight-in-one’ games table for table

tennis, skittles, air hockey, table tennis, cheques, billiards and more.

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IMAGE COPYRIGHT HOLDERS

Cwmhir Abbey, Abbey-Cwm-Hir © Eirian Evans pg 6

Clock Tower, Hay-on-Wye © Stephen McKay pg 15

Clyro Church, Clyro © Andy Dolman pg 19

Cambrian Woollen Mills, Llanwrtyd Wells

© Martin Loader pg 21

Some images in this publicationhave been supplied by http://www.geograph.org.uk and

licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic License. To view a

copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/ or send a letter to

Creative Commons, 171 Second Street, Suite 300, San Francisco, California, 94105, USA.

COPYRIGHT HOLDERS ARE AS FOLLOWS:

View from Pen y Fan, Libanus © Paul pg 26

Crickhowell Castle, Crickhowell © Keith Salvesen pg 30

Llyn Llangors Lake, Llangors © Duncan Hawley pg 32

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TOWNS, VILLAGES AND PLACES OF INTEREST

A

Abbey-cwm-Hir 6

Cwmhir Abbey 6

The Hall at Abbey-Cwm-Hir 6

Abergwesyn 22

Abergwesyn Pass 22

B

Bleddfa 10

Brecon 23

Brecknock Museum 24

Brecon Castle 23

Brecon Cathedral 23

Captain’s Walk 24

Heritage Centre 24

Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal 25

South Wales Borderers Museum 24

Y Gaer 25

Builth Wells 20

Castle Mound 20

Cefn Carn Cafall 21

Groe Park 21

Parish Church of St Mary 20

Royal Welsh Show Ground 20

Wayside Arts Centre 20

C

Cilmery 21

Memorial to Llywelyn the Last 21

Clyro 19

Clyro Castle 19

Cwm Byddog 19

Parish Church of St Michael 19

Craig-y-nos 27

Craig-y-Nos Castle 28

Craig-y-Nos Country Park 28

Dinosaur Park 27

Iron Age Farm 28

Morgan Bros. Shire Horse Centre 27

National Showcaves Centre for Wales 27

Crickhowell 29

Crickhowell Bridge 29

Crickhowell Castle 29

Crug Hywell 29

Pwll-y-Wrach Nature Reserve 30

St Edmund’s 30

E

Elan Village 7

Caben Coch 7

Elan Valley 7

Erwood 21

Erwood Station Craft Centre and Gallery 21

H

Hay-on-Wye 13

Butter Market 17

Cheese Market 17

Clock Tower 17

Festival of Literature and the Arts 15

Hay Castle 17

Hay Motte 17

Hay-on-Wye Craft Centre 17

K

Knighton 8

Glyndwr’s Way 9

Kinsley Wood 10

Offa’s Dyke Centre 9

Pinners Hole 10

Spaceguard Centre 9

L

Libanus 26

Bedd Illtyd 26

Corn Du 26

National Park Visitor Centre 26

Pen y Fan 26

Twyn y Gaer 26

Llandrindod Wells 4

Abercamlo Bog 5

Bailey Einion 5

Castell Collen 5

Heart of Wales Line 5

National Cycle Collection 5

Old Parish Church of Llandrindod 5

Parish Church of the Holy Trinity 5

Radnor Forest 5

Radnorshire Museum 5

Rock Park 5

Victorian Festival 5

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TOWNS, VILLAGES AND PLACES OF INTEREST

Llanfrynach 26

Parish Church of St Brynach 26

Water Folk Museum 26

Llangammarch Wells 22

John Perry 22

Theophilus Evans 22

Llangattock 33

Craig-y-Cilau Nature Reserve 33

Parish Church of St Catwg 33

Llangors 31

Langorse Multi-Activity Centre 32

Llangors Lake 32

Parish Church of St Paulinus 31

Llangynidr 33

Chartists’ Cave 33

Llanwrtyd Wells 21

Cambrian Woollen Mill 22

Llyn Brianne 22

William Williams 22

World Bog Snorkelling Championship 22

N

New Radnor 12

New Radnor Castle 12


Newbridge on Wye 23

Drover’s Statue 23

Parish Church of All Saints 23

O

Old Radnor 12

Parish Church of St Stephen 12

P

Painscastle 19

Castell Paen 19

Parish Church of St Peter 20

Tawny Owl Animal Park and Craft Centre 20

Presteigne 10

Duke’s Arms 11

Judge’s Lodging 12

Mary Morgan 12

Parish Church of St Andrew 12

The Radnorshire Arms 11

R

Rhayader 6

Gigrin Farm 7

Rebecca Riots 6

Rhayader Castle 6

Welsh Royal Crystal 7

Wye Valley Walk 7

S

Sennybridge 28

Castell Ddu 28

Disgwylfa Conservation Centre 29

St Harmon 7

Gilfach Farm Nature Reserve 8

Parish Church of St Harmon 7

T

Talgarth 32

Bronllys Castle 32

Hywell Harris 32

Parish Church of St Gwendoline 32

Talybont-on-Usk 31

Talybont Reservoir 31

Tretower 30

Tretower Court and Gardens and Tretower Castle 30

Y

Ystradfellte 26

Fan Llia 27

Fan Nedd 27

Maen Madog 27


Porth-yr-Ogof 27

Ystradgynlais 27

Y Garn Goch 27

guide to rural wales - south powys

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