guide to the wines of apulia and basilicata - introduction
DESCRIPTION
«La Gazzetta del Mezzogiorno» edition presents 2010TRANSCRIPT
2010
Guide to the Wines of Apulia and Basilicata
Director: Giuseppe De Tomaso
Edisud Spa - Viale Scipione l'Africano, 264 - Bari
Graphics and Coordination: Tirsomedia - Via Sangiorgi, 15 - Bari
Introductions to territories by the Apulian Wine Tourism Movement
Translation: Sarah Jane Christopher
Tasting Panel:
President of tasting panels: Leonardo Palumbo - President Oenologists’ Association
for Puglia, Basilicata, Calabria
Members:
Oenologists’ Association: Luigi Cantatore, Pasquale Tamborra, Giovanni Colucci,
Luca Petrelli, Benedetto Lorusso, Francesco Mazzone, Michele Savino,
Massimiliano Apollonio, Elio Minoia, Vincenzo Baldari, Angelo Mauriello,
Gianni Masi, Luigi Tarricone
Restaurateurs and wine retailers: Giuseppe Fato, Beppe Schino, Fulvio Nobile
Texts finished: 30 September 2009
Printing: Simeto Docks srl - Via B. Grassi, 7 - Catania
Printed: November 2009
Publicity: Publikompass Spa - Via G. Washington, 70 - Milan
© Edisud Spa 2009
All rights reserved Edisud Spa - BARI
Reg. Trib. Bari n. 45/04 15 October 2004
Codice DBK
ISBN 978-88-95281-17-9
2010 edition
GUIDE TO THE WINESOF APULIA
AND BASILICATA
5
Introduction
Preface by Oenologists’ Association
How to read the guide
Excellence
Glassware
Bottles
Glasses
Cultivation systems
Apulia
Presentation Apulia
Doc Map of Apulia
Apulian vines
Daunia
Murge
Valle d'Itria
Messapia
Alto Salento
Basso Salento
Basilicata
Presentation Basilicata
Doc Map of Basilicata
Grapes Basilicata
Vulture and Sassi
Alphabetic index for Apulia
Alphabetic index for Basilicata
Index of place names in Apulia
Index of place names in Basilicata
6
8
10
13
17
18
21
25
29
30
32
35
43
67
111
129
173
233
261
262
264
267
271
298
305
307
315
INDEX
The year 2010 will see some positive changes, with consumption rising again
and the economy beginning to move once more.
The last year has been hard and tiring, making us even more determined to
support the producers of Apulia and Basilicata in their efforts to valorise and to
produce excellent wines. We also aim to help wine lovers by providing them with
a useful updated guidebook to help them discover as much as possible about
the fascinating wine culture of our two southern Italian Regions.
There are some new developments in the sixth edition of this guide to the wines
of Apulia and Basilicata. The first and most tangible novelty is the publication of
an English edition, because it is now evident that the reference market for our
wineries is the whole world. This is seen in the encouraging export figures, and
also in the many international promotional and marketing events involving our
two Regions. The English edition aims to contribute to this process of
international communication and to provide buyers, restaurateurs, wine sellers,
and overseas consumers with some needed information about the wines of
Apulia and Basilicata.
The second novelty concerns the tasting commission, this year conducted by
the Oenologists’ Association (Assoenologi). These experienced professionals
are directly involved in wine production and have carried out a careful and
objective evaluation of over six hundred labels. This has made it possible to see
wine from another viewpoint: that of the people who have inside knowledge of
the wine-growing and wine-making behind the production of quality wines.
Restaurateurs and expert consumers have also worked alongside the
6
INTRODUCTION
7
oenologists to make complete evaluations by giving the opinions of the “end
users” of the wine.
A new layout and new contents will make this information more easily
accessible, and readers will be able to appreciate the wines in a wider and more
articulated way – in a culinary context. There is a tribute to the traditional
cuisine of every single area of wine production, and we are certain that this will
make the many wine tourists who intend to visit the wine-growing lands of
Apulia and Basilicata curious to discover more.
We hope that these innovations will contribute to the development and growth
of the whole sector.
Leonardo Palumbo
President of Oenologists’ Association
for Puglia, Basilicata, Calabria
It is clear that a guidebook cannot cover all the vast and varied complexity of a
Region’s wines, but the intention here is like that of the previous editions: to
offer readers and potential consumers an updated map of the wines and
wineries whose excellent products deserve a mention. It is evident to all of us
that Apulian wineries have made giant steps in improving quality, with more
refined, balanced wines now consolidated on the market. These express their
terroir of course, but also correspond to the expectations of consumers who
have become more knowledgeable and demanding.
It is obvious that behind these wines there have been real revolutions in the
wineries, not only in the use of new technologies, but even more so in the skills
and expertise of the actual technicians involved. They are the real creators in
this process of wine-making which I would go so far as to call mystical,
because there is a mystical element in the way nature and its chemical
reactions encounter the creative fantasy of the oenologist. This combination
produces something which is always new and different, yet always true to
itself.
It is mystical because not everything can be explained, and not everything is
predictable; there is an arcane quantity which science cannot grasp, in the
transformation of geometrically perfect grapes into that lively liquid bursting
with energy, the drink of Dionysus. It is true that there is a mystical quality in
the patient waiting this transformation demands, as if there were a real life
developing from the plant materials to become an exhilarating spirit. We, as
experts, watch this development in amazement, and monitor it constantly
right to the end, applying our specialist knowledge and also our intuition so
that we offer nature, culture, history and tradition in one bottle. Wine is not just
a product, wine is the translation of a land, in all of its many forms of
expression.
I hope that this guide will help our readers to enjoy some moments of real
pleasure and satisfaction as you explore the wines of Apulia and Basilicata,
and that you will fall in love with these proud and generous lands.
Lama San Marzano
Maruggio
Marina di Pulsano
Pulsano
Grottaglie
Villa Castelli
Nardò
Tuglie
Alezio
Gallipoli
Cutrofiano
Aradeo
CollepassoCutrofiano
Depressadi Tricase
ParabitaNovoli
San PancrazioSalentino
Salice Salentino
Copertino
Campi Salentina
Veglie (MAGLIANO)
Squinzano
FasanoTrinitapoli
Conversano
Turi
Cassano
Santeramo
Castellana Grotte
Minervino Murge
The guide invites you to discover the wines of Apulia
and Basilicata and gives a complete description of the
wineries in each territory.
The two regions are introduced by maps showing the
main vines of the area and the list of recognised Doc
and Igt wines. Alphabetic indexes of the wineries and
territories complete the guide.
THE TERRITORIES
SASSI ANDVULTURE
BASSO SALENTOALTO SALENTO
DAUNIA MESSAPIAVALLE D’ITRIAMURGE
The macro-areas are a sub-division of the
territory according to typology of the wine-
growing area.
Apulia has six large areas: Daunia, Murgia,
Valle d’Itria, Messapia, Alto Salento and
Basso Salento.
10
RIONERO IN VULTURE
BARILE
MELFI
VENOSA
POTENZAPOTENZA
MATERAMATERA
LAVELLO
Viggiano
BANZI
TURSI
RAPOLLA
ROCCANOVA
NOVASIRI
HOW TO READTHIS GUIDE
GUIDE TO THE WINESOF APULIA
AND BASILICATA
2010 edition
THE SIMBOLS
Average wine with interesting room for development
The winery trade mark
Brief descriptionof the winery
Winery details
Evaluations
Types
The evaluation of the wine is shown by a bottle. The points are expressed in sections of the bottle. These range from a minimum of two to a maximum of five for an excellent wine.
Good wine with good character
Excellent, elegant wine
Excellent wine with excellent character
The producer’schoice of wines
White Rosé Red
Other winesproduced
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HOW TO READ THIS GUIDE
THE EXCELLENCES
DAUNIA
MURGE
VALLE D'ITRIA
MESSAPIA
Il Griccio Rosso da dessert 2008Agricole Alberto Longo
La Dama Forestiera di d'Araprì 2003d`Araprì Spumante Classico
Primitivo Gioia del Colle Riserva Rosso doc 2006Azienda Agricola Giuliani Raffaele
Il Paturno Puglia Rosso igt 2007Barsento
Tufjano Puglia Bianco igt 2008Colli della Murgia
Pungirosa Castel del Monte Rosato doc 2008Rivera
0,618 Castel del Monte Riserva Rosso doc 2000Santa Lucia
Masseria Maìme Salento Rosso igt 2007Tormaresca
Faraone Valle d'Itria Bianco igt 2008I Pastini
Madrigale Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale doc 2006Produttori Vini Manduria
Sessantanni Primitivo di Manduria doc 2006Feudi di San Marzano
Es Primitivo di Manduria Rosso doc 2007Gianfranco Fino Viticoltore
Passione Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale doc 2003Vinicola Savese
APULIA
THE EXCELLENCES
14
THE EXCELLENCES
ALTO SALENTO
BASSO SALENTO
Leucos Salento Bianco igt 2008Azienda Agricola Giovanni Petrelli
Teresa Manara Salento Rosso igt 2006Cantele
Selvarossa Salice Salentino Riserva Rosso doc 2005Cantine Due Palme
Saturnino Salento Rosato igt 2008Tenute Rubino
Nero Conti Zecca Salento Rosso igt 2006Azienda Agricola Conti Zecca
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BASILICATA
Teodosio Aglianico del Vulture doc 2007Azienda Agricola Basilisco
Il Sigillo Aglianico del Vulture doc 2005Cantine del Notaio
Terre di Orazio Aglianico doc 2007Cantina di Venosa
GLASSWARE
Bordeaux. Derives its name from the Bordeaux region. Shaped like a cylinder with pronounced shoulders.
Classic Bordeaux. Slightly lowerthan the Bordeaux.
The development of wine bottles is connected to two main
factors: the local traditions, and the commercial needs of the
producers. The shape, colour, and the material of which they
are made are always the result of a combination of local
culture and concrete technical advantages. In this section
you will discover, observe, and recognise some examples of
bottles which differ in their area of origin and in their base,
body, shoulders and neck.
BOTTLES
18
Champagne.Made from a particular type of glass, thickerthan usual to withstand internal pressure.
Alsace or Rhine. Derives its namefrom the Rhineland area. Elongated formwithout shoulders.
Albeisa. Derives its name from the Alba area in Piemonte.
Burgundy. Shake like a conewith a long neck and no shoulders.
19
BOTTLES
High shouldered Bordeaux 0.5 litre.Generally used for sweet wines due to its size.
ChampagneCuvée.Similar toChampagne but with a wider base.
Amphoretta or Provençale. Typical of Verdicchio and Côte de Provence, hence the two names.
High shouldered Bordeaux. Also called Goliath, and one of the most common types.
20
BOTTLES
Flûte. The typical glass for champagne and dry sparkling wines.
Medium glass used for medium-structured white winesand young reds.
Wine tasting involves the eyes, the nose and the tongue. In
order to correctly evaluate wine it is important for wine
glasses to have some very precise features. They must be
transparent and odourless, and can be made of glass or
crystal, with different shapes according to the wine they
have to contain. Here we will show you some pictures of the
most commonly used wine glasses and tell you for which
wines they are most suitable. Glasses can be tulip-, apple- or
egg-shaped, for still wines, sparkling wines or spirits.
WINE GLASSES
21
Balloon glass for classic structured red wineswith few tannins.
Like the balloon this is suitable for important red wines, but with more tannins.
Its long stem and medium capacity make this glass suitable for aromatic white winesand rosé wines.
This glass is suitable for full-bodied and medium-structured reds or for important white wines.
WINE GLASSES
22
Distinctive glass for fruit spirits and grappa.
Tulip glass with a slight outward curve at the rim, and ideal for wines made using dried grapes.
A widerand taller glass for wines with an extraordinary, superlative structure.
Glass for sweet “muffati” wines, gently shake and curved inwards at the rim.
WINE GLASSES
23
CULTIVATIONMETHODS
Apulia contains much of the variability of the Italian wine scene, in
terms of the different types of vines grown here, the different cultivation
systems, the levels of production, and the types of wine made: it is a
kind of “laboratory” which has turned out some splendid flavours for
decades, and also come to the aid of wine production in many other
regions.
Vines are grown in our region which have a “flowering-maturation”
cycle of 90 days and then about 145 days of growth, with production
levels ranging from 4-5 tonnes per hectare to eight or nine times this
figure, with different cultivation methods.
The traditional “alberello” head training system is still a feature of the
Salento countryside, but is constantly losing ground. The alberello is
almost condemned to disappear because of the cultivation costs it
involves, but it encapsulates the ancient history, the elegance of form,
the perfection of plant physiology, the ancestral bond between man
and vine and the handing on of an “inheritance” from one generation to
another.
The trellis system of cultivation using Cordon Training with vertical
shoot positioning and Guyot or cordon pruning, is now the favourite
choice among growers, in a kind of extraordinary, silent revolution. In
this way high plant density can be combined with highly mechanised
crop management and increased potential for wine production.
The more extensive type of tendone trellis cultivation system survives
in the Capitanata area near Foggia; this is a technique which
maximises production levels, and at the same time produces decent
wines.
CULTIVATIONS
26
alberello
controspalliera
CULTIVATIONS
27
tendone
APULIA
Dario Stefàno
Apulia Region
Agro-Food Resources Councillor
To recount a Region through its wines is a bit like going on a journey of
discovery. A journey which, as far as I am concerned, never fails to astonish
and enchant. I have also had the opportunity to make this journey in my work
as Regional Councillor for Agro-Food Resources. It has been a real journey,
involving meetings, fact-finding trips, handshakes and frank and honest
exchanges. One of the most meaningful experiences for me has been the
inauguration of the 2009 Grape Harvest. I chose to be right there “in the field”
with the rows of vines and to travel around Apulia, in the midst of the men and
women who have a tireless commitment to this key sector of our economy.
Wine production is the sector which best tells the story of Apulian production
to the whole world. And Apulia produces quality. This is the only mean we have
of overcoming the difficulties posed by the present economic situation and the
effects of an unprecedented world crisis. As I write, the first data are starting to
arrive from the Grape Harvest which has just closed. These data confirm the
PRESENTATION
initial predictions of a drop in output, of around 15%, caused by rather bizarre
weather conditions; high temperatures were followed by unusual rains
penalising all our southern regions. Despite the drop in production, Apulia
with its 5,900,000 hectolitres (source: Oenologists’ Association) is still a
leading wine producer, second only to the Veneto and Emilia Romagna. And
quality – according to the same source – is at good levels, with some peaks of
excellence. Let’s remember that Apulia continues to be among the most
“ennobled” regions, with its 26 DOC wines and its six proposed DOCG wines.
When this is considered together with the proposed changes to the
regulations for the production of many DOC wines, the establishment of two
denominations linking the name of the vine to its territory (Negroamaro di
Terra d’Otranto and Terre di Nero di Troia), and the proposed modifications for
Apulian IGT wines, then we have tangible signs of an Apulia directed towards
quality, fortified by its unending heritage of local vine varieties. The ambition
is to become leading players on the world wine scene, due to this inimitable,
unique quality, in which we should all invest.
PRESENTATION
Trinitapoli
Cassano
Santeramo
MANFREDONIA
Minervino Murge
TERRITORIES OF APULIAN WINES:
MURGE
GIOIA DEL COLLEPrimitivoAleaticoTrebbiano toscano
GRAVINAMalvasia del ChiantiGreco di TufoBianco d'Alessano
CASTEL DEL MONTENero di TroiaAglianicoBombino neroPampanutoChardonnaySauvignonPinot biancoPinot nero
ROSSO BARLETTA Nero di Troia
MOSCATO DI TRANIMoscato bianco(loc. Moscato di Trani o Reale)
ROSSO DI CANOSANero di Troia
ALEATICO DI PUGLIA
DAUNIA
SAN SEVEROBombino biancoTrebbiano toscanoMontepulciano d'AbruzzoCACC'E MMITTE DI LUCERANero di TroiaMontepulcianoORTANOVASangioveseNero di TroiaROSSO DI CERIGNOLANero di TroiaNegroamaro
Novoli
Adelfia
Conversano
Turi
Cassano
Santeramo
Lama San Marzano
Maruggio
San PancrazioSalentino
Salice Salentino
Copertino
Nardò
Tuglie
Alezio
Gallipoli
Taviano
Cutrofiano
Castellana Grotte
Fasano
Marina di Pulsano
Pulsano
Campi Salentina
Torre S. Susanna
Veglie (MAGLIANO)
Aradeo
CollepassoCutrofiano
Depressadi Tricase
Parabita
Squinzano
Crispiano
Grottaglie
Villa Castelli
VALLE D'ITRIA
MESSAPIA
DOC, IGT AND MAIN WINES
ALTO SALENTO
ALEZIONegroamaro
LEVERANOMalvasia bianca Negroamaro
MATINONegroamaro
NARDÒNegroamaro
GALATINANegroamaroChardonnay
BASSO SALENTO
COPERTINONegroamaro
BRINDISINegroamaro
SQUINZANONegroamaro
SALICE SALENTINONegroamaroAleaticoChardonnayPinot bianco
LOCOROTONDOVerdecaBianco d'Alessano
OSTUNIImpignoOttavianello
MARTINA FRANCAVerdecaBianco d'Alessano
LIZZANONegroamaroMalvasia neraTrebbiano toscano
PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIAPrimitivo
COLLINE JONICHE TARANTINEPrimitivo ChardonnayVerdecaCabernet SauvignonPrimitivo
APULIANGRAPES
BIANCO D’ALESSANO
This is one of the white grapes of the Murge and Valle d'Itria areas. We find it in Gravina, Martina, Locorotondo, Ostuni and Lizzano doc wines. In recent years there has been great interest in some wines which use this variety unblended.
BOMBINO BIANCO
This is a grape grown in the whole region. It is the main variety used in some important white doc wines such as Castel del Monte (with pampanuto), San Severo (blended with trebbiano toscano) and Leverano (with malvasia bianca).
CHARDONNAY
An international vine in its regional expression. Chardonnay is obviously not a native of Apulia, but is very widespread here due to the excellent local conditions. Castel del Monte, Lizzano, Salice Salentino are doc wines which use this variety.
FIANO
Originally from neighbouring Campania, fiano has found its ideal habitat in Apulia, especially in the Valle d'Itria, and is used in the Locorotondo and Martina doc wines.
FRANCAVIDDA
The Upper Salento, especially the province of Brindisi, gives us another wonderful wine grape, used in Ostuni Doc blended with impigno, bianco d'Alessano and verdeca in percentages from 15 to 50%.
WHITE GRAPES
37
GRECO BIANCO
Greco is used in Gravina doc together with malvasia bianca and bianco d'Alessano, and is another example of a grape which expresses the character of this remarkable white wine-producing area.
MALVASIA BIANCA
This local variety is mostly blended in many Apulian doc wines, such as Cacc'e Mmitte di Lucera, San Severo, Locorotondo, Martina, Gravina, Lizzano and Leverano.
MOSCATO REALE
Moscato bianco or moscato reale are the names of one of the best known and most typical local grapevines in Apulia. Moscato grapes produce Moscato di Trani doc, a naturally sweet wine coming from the areas of Bari and Foggia, and is also produced as a sweet fortified wine.
PAMPANUTO
Castel del Monte doc is the wine which makes most use of pampanuto (also known as pampanino), used together with chardonnay or bombino bianco.
IMPIGNO
Here is a local variety, another “pearl” of Apulian wines. It is used in Ostuni doc in varying amounts from 50 to 85%, together with francavidda and also bianco d'Alessano and verdeca.
APULIAN GRAPES
38
SAUVIGNON
Here is another example of a non-native variety which has found an ideal habitat here in Apulia. Like chardonnay, it is used especially in the Castel del Monte, Lizzano and Salice Salentino doc wines.
VERDECA
Verdeca is very important in Locorotondo and Martina doc wines, used at 50 to 65%. It is also used in Gravina doc, with other important white grapes like bombino bianco or trebbiano toscano.
AGLIANICO
This variety is usually associated with neighbouring Basilicata, but also has a long tradition in Apulia, where it is very important in Castel del Monte doc, which specifically requires aglianico red and rosé.
ALEATICO
This native vine is present in the whole region and produces a naturally sweet wine. Aleatico is also the name of the doc wine which also uses negroamaro, malvasia nera and primitivo in lower percentages.
BOMBINO NERO
This variety is also known as “bambino” or “buonvino” and has a long history, with high productivity and abundant juice yields. It is mostly grown in Apulia, in the areas of Lizzano and Castel del Monte.
RED GRAPES
APULIAN GRAPES
39
MONTEPULCIANO
This variety is originally from outside Apulia, but has found a perfect environment here. Montepulciano is very widespread in the province of Foggia, used in the following doc wines: San Severo, Cacc'e Mmitte di Lucera, Ortanova, Rosso di Cerignola and Rosso Canosa, and also in the Castel del Monte and Lizzano doc wines, as well as in the Leverano, Copertino and Alezio doc wines from the Salento.
NEGROAMARO
This grape is the symbol of wine production in the Salento area, which is increasingly well known and closely connected with this variety which is also becoming more popular in other areas of Apulia. Negroamaro is used in Rosso di Cerignola doc, and also in Lizzano, Brindisi, Squinzano, Salice Salentino, Leverano, Copertino, Nardò, Galatina, Matino and Alezio doc wines.
NERO DI TROIA
The area known as “Frederick's lands”, which runs from the north of Bari province to the province of Foggia is best represented by nero di Troia. This variety alone or blended with other varieties is used in the Castel del Monte, Cacc'e Mmitte di Lucera, Ortanova, Rosso di Cerignola, and Rosso Canosa doc wines.
NOTARDOMENICO
This rare variety is grown in the Upper Salento, mostly in the province of Brindisi, and is used to produce Ostuni doc at a percentage of up to 15%.
MALVASIA NERA LECCE E BRINDISI
This grape is very widespread in the Salento peninsula, from the Taranto area right across to the provinces of Brindisi and Lecce. It is used in the Lizzano, Brindisi, Squinzano, Salice Salentino, Leverano, Copertino, Nardò, Matino and Alezio doc wines.
APULIAN GRAPES
40
OTTAVIANELLO
This is another example of a variety which has survived due to the persistence and passion of local growers. Ottavianello is grown in the province of Brindisi and is one of the varieties used in Ostuni doc.
PRIMITIVO
According to tradition, primitivo was planted first near Gioia del Colle in the Province of Bari by the Benedictine monks. Towards the end of the 1700s, the priest Don Filippo Francesco Indellicati selected a clone and called it “primativo” because it ripened early. This variety then found ideal growing conditions around Manduria in the Province of Taranto, and became a world ambassador for Apulian wines.
SANGIOVESE
Sangiovese did not originate in Apulia, but is widely cultivated in the region. It is used for San Severo, Cacc'e Mmitte di Lucera, Ortanova, Rosso di Cerignola and Rosso Canosa doc wines, but also for those from Gioia del Colle and Lizzano, as well as for the Salento doc wines - Brindisi, Squinzano, Leverano, Copertino, Alezio and Matino.
SUSSUMANIELLO
This variety is used in small percentages in Ostuni and Brindisi Doc wines, and in recent years has been rediscovered and used unblended to make wine. This is another confirmation of the deep attachment of Apulian growers to their homeland, and their untiring commitment to preserving and enhancing their heritage.
APULIAN GRAPES
41