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Secure the threadwith tiny back stitchesat the beginning of the

work and with a figure-

8 knot at the end. Forthe figure-8 knot, take

a tiny back stitch, wrap

the thread under andaround the needlebefore pulling the

needle through.

The backstitch makes a

very strong seam. Take

a 1/8" stitch, then insertthe needle either 1/16 or

1/8" behind the thread,

and take another 1/8"stitch.

The fell stitch is

useful for joining twolayers of fabric from

the right side. Insertthe needle directly

below where it came

out of the fabric, andbring it out 1/8" ahead

and opposite where itfirst came out of the

fabric. There will be

diagonal stitches onthe wrong side.

The drawing

stitch invisibly joinstwo layers of fabric

with folded edges from

the right side. Take ashort stitch through

one folded edge, thenin the other folded

edge.

The whipstitch is

used for seamingfabrics, either right orwrong sides together.

The stitches should beabout 1/16" apart, andonly as deep asnecessary to create a

The catch stitch is

very useful forhemming as well asjoining two edges.

Take a smallbackstitch, move tothe other layer, andtake another

HAND STITCHING

There are times when even the most dedicated machine sewerneeds or wants to do some hand-work on a project, and it'suseful to have a repertoire of stitches for different purposes. Forthe 20-minute vests, which can be sewn by hand quicker thanyou can thread your machine, these stitches will provide endlessvariations. For the seams, try a quilting thread, which is heavierthan machine thread, so you need use only a single thread. Ifyou want the stitches to be decorative, try cotton embroideryfloss or a light weight knitting yarn. Use a short needle (easierfor small stitches), with an eye large enough for the thread oryarn to move easily through.

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firm seam. Leave a tailof thread when you

start, and work severalstitches over it to

secure and hide thethread.

backstitch.

The overcaststitch is used to

prevent raveling.Work evenly, and asclosely together as

necessary for a secure

edge.

For a more secureedge, work a second

row (crossedovercast stitches)back over the first

rrow of overcast

stitches.The rolled hem usesaslipstitch to secure

a very narrowfinished edge. Roll

the fabric betweenyour thumb and

finger (or, if the

fabric won't roll, foldit), then secure it

with a tiny stitch thatcatches just a thread

or two from thefabric and then a

short stitch through

the roll (or the edgeof the fabric).

The baseball stitch isa decorative stitch to

join two abuttededges. Insert theneedle between the

edges, bring it out

1/8" from one edge,insert between theedges again, and bring

it out in the otheredge. Work closelytogether for a secure

seam.

The blanket

stitch is adecorative stitch to

finish either a rawedge. Work the

stitches evenly, andas closely together

as necessary to

cover the raw edge.

The buttonholestitchcontrols frayingas well as creating a

decorative edge. Put

the needle under andthrough the fabricedge; loop the thread

around the needle

point, and pull theneedle through.

Tighten the thread,

positioning the "knot"

of the stitch at thefabric edge.