YOUR GUIDE TO HELPING SAVE OUR NATIONAL BIRD

Save KiwiHow to

Photo: BNZ Save the Kiwi Trust

This guide accompanies the

“How to Save Kiwi” training DVD.

1 About Kiwi Community Efforts 5 Five Species 6 A Versatile Bird 6 A Biological Oddity 7 The Threats Kiwi Face 7

2 Predator Control & Monitoring The Threats 9 First Things First 9 Types of Control 10 – Stoats 10 – Ferrets 12 – Rats 12 – Cats and Dogs 13 – Possums 14 – Hedgehogs 15 – Pigs 16 Keep Good Records 17

3 Cats and Dogs Cats 19 – Wild Cats 19 – Traps 20 – Poison 21 – House Cats Also Kill Kiwi 21 Dogs 22 – What You Can Do 22 – Hunting Dogs 23 – Helpful Resources 23

Table of Contents

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4 BNZ Operation Nest EggTM

The Beginning 25 How it Works 25 The Benefi ts 26

Advocating for Kiwi 26 Buying Time 27

5 Call Count Monitoring Types of Monitoring 29 Kiwi Call Count Monitoring Training

Package 30 Setting up a Monitoring Programme 30 Specialised Monitoring Methods 31

6 Habitat Protection Adaptable Birds 33 Living with Kiwi 33 Long-Term Protection 33

7 Kiwi and Forestry Kiwi-Friendly Forestry 35 Other Things You Can Do 37 Find Out More 37

8 Starting a Kiwi Protection Project in Your Community

Co-operative Efforts 39 The First Thing 40

Funding 40 Other Resources 41

Find Out More 41

9 Resources to Save Kiwi 42

CONTENTS PAGE

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It wasn’t so long ago that we realised kiwi were in trouble. Big trouble. Mainland populations were halving every 15-20 years.

While many of us took it for granted that our quirky fl ightless national bird would always be around, in the early 1990s researchers and scientists discovered that kiwi were dying out on the mainland, disappearing from places where they had once been common.

About Kiwi

Photo: Department of Conservation

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Community EffortsMore than 80 community-based kiwi groups operate around the country, with volunteers protecting more than 60,000 hectares of kiwi land.

They kill kiwi predators, raise awareness about kiwi’s plight, and work with district and regional councils and other agencies.

The backbone for community efforts is the BNZ Save the Kiwi Trust, which provides funding, resources, and access to expertise and advice, including this booklet and the DVD that make up the “How to Save Kiwi” kit. Many community-led projects receive fi nancial support from the Trust.

The main cause of declining kiwi populations is predators – especially stoats and dogs. Stoats are particularly devastating for young chicks, while dogs kill adult birds.

Since the spotlight went onto kiwi, we have learned a great deal about them, including that ensuring their survival on the mainland was too big a job for the Department of Conservation on its on. New Zealanders rallied, and today

thousands of people around the country are working hard to help save kiwi.

We are learning more all the time, and improving what we do to make our efforts more effective.

The difference we are making – iwi, community volunteers, scientists, researchers, Department of Conservation fi eld workers – proves we can make a huge positive contribution to the kiwi’s future.

The Trust, a partnership between BNZ, the Department of Conservation and Forest and Bird, also puts a lot of energy into advocating for kiwi. A big emphasis is on encouraging dog owners to keep their pets in check so that they don’t kill kiwi.

This booklet and the DVD are a good place to begin if you want to learn more about how you can help. More information is also available on the BNZ Save the Kiwi website – www.savethekiwi.org.nz

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CHAPTER 1 : About Kiwi

Haast

Okarito

Karori Wildlife Sanctuary

Tongariro

Moehau

Whangarei

Kapiti IsLong Is

Chalky Is

Whakau/Red Mercury IsTaranga/Hen Is

Brown Kiwi

Great Spotted Kiwi

Little Spotted Kiwi

Rowi

Tokoeka

Kiwi Sanctuaries

Tiritiri Matangi Is

Motuihe Is

Five SpeciesFive species of kiwi are recognised, and each is threatened.

They are the brown kiwi (which has four forms), little spotted kiwi, great spotted kiwi, rowi and tokoeka (which also has four forms).

Five kiwi sanctuaries are managed by the Department of Conservation to protect different species or special populations.

The three North Island sanctuaries protect brown kiwi and are at Whangarei, Moehau and Tongariro.

The two South Island sanctuaries protect the two rarest kiwi. Rowi are in the Okarito sanctuary, while Haast tokoeka are in the Haast sanctuary.

A Versatile BirdKiwi are versatile birds.

Some live on the coast, digging in sand; some live among snowy tussock high in the mountains; while others live in the many spaces that lie between – forest, scrub, rough farmland, swamps and even pine forests.

All the birds really need is a good supply of the food they like to eat – grubs, crickets, snails, worms, spiders, fruit and

berries – and a place to nest and shelter – a burrow, hollow log, under a rock or in a clump of vegetation.

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A Biological OddityOne thing that makes kiwi so special is their biology, which is very different to most birds.

For example, the kiwi’s powerful muscular legs are heavy and marrow-fi lled, like a mammal’s, and make up a third of the bird’s weight. Most bird skeletons are light and fi lled with air sacs to enable fl ight.

Unlike other birds, a kiwi’s nostrils are at the end of its beak, like a human nose. And like us, its eye sockets are divided by large nasal cavities – in most birds, eye sockets are separated by a plate. Kiwi eyes are quite small and its eyesight is not particularly good, but its big ears and large scent organ help it navigate the night forest.

A female kiwi produces a large egg, which weighs 15-20% of her body weight and is six times bigger than for most birds of her size.

The huge yolk and long incubation allow the chick to emerge as a mini adult, fully feathered and able to feed itself – which is very unusual for a bird.

A kiwi’s plumage is shaggy and hair-like, and it has cat-like whiskers on its face and around the base of its beak. These tactile super-sensitive way-fi nding whiskers probably evolved to help the bird feel its way through the dark.

Find out more about what makes kiwi so different and special at:www.savethekiwi.org.nz

The Threats Kiwi FaceThe kiwi’s troubles begin in its burrow. About half of all eggs laid don’t even hatch – either due to natural bacteria, or because the egg is disturbed.

Even if a chick does emerge, 70% never reach six months – most are killed by stoats, or sometimes cats. Another 20% die from natural causes or other predators.

Of the 10% of wild chicks that do make it to six months of age, only half achieve adulthood.

That means just 5% of all hatched chicks become adults. And even then they are not safe.

Dogs and ferrets can kill adult birds.

That’s why the work of BNZ Save the Kiwi Trust, with your support, is so important.

Kiwi are the only birds with nostrils at the end of their beak

A kiwi egg is large relative to the size of the female

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CHAPTER 1 : About Kiwi

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Land clearance used to be the biggest threat for kiwi and other native birds.

Today, predators are the worst problem, and controlling them is the most important thing we can do to help save kiwi.

Predator Control & Monitoring

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First Things FirstBefore you begin killing kiwi predators, it’s important to learn about these animals and the law of unintended consequences.

For example, if you remove just rats, what will the stoats eat? If you take out stoats, what will happen to rabbit and mice numbers?

There are best practice guidelines and experienced trappers available to help you work out the right programme and avoid any hidden negative ripples.

The ThreatsThe biggest threat to kiwi chicks comes from stoats and cats, while dogs and ferrets are particularly hard on adult birds, which means we lose breeding populations.

Other introduced animals are also hard on kiwi. Possums kill both chicks and adult birds, destroy eggs and steal kiwi burrows to live in themselves. Pigs destroy eggs and can kill adult kiwi.

While hedgehogs, rodents and weasels don’t kill kiwi, they do cause other problems. They compete for the same food, and are preyed on by the same predators that attack kiwi, helping to keep stoat and cat numbers high.

You can fi nd guidelines and advice on www.savethekiwi.org.nz, in the ‘Resources to Save Kiwi’. section

It’s also good to target predator control to the times of year when the pest animals can have the worst effect on kiwi.

For example, with stoats, that is when the young leave their dens, from October/November through to March. This coincides with when kiwi chicks weigh less than 1 kilogram and are at their most vulnerable.

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Kiwi with signs of stoat predation bites on the neck

Possum beside a philproof bait station

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CHAPTER 2 : Predator Control & Monitoring

Types of ControlThere are many different types of trap, and new ones are being developed all the time.

While it is important to follow the recommended best practice for each one, there are basic principals that can be applied to most equipment.

Two important things to remember are:• Take health and safety precautions

to avoid being injured by traps, or catching a disease from handling dead animals or tainted traps.

• Be careful to make sure your traps are set to only catch the animal you are targeting. We don’t want to put any other species at risk – especially kiwi. For example, for leg-hold traps, that means setting them at least 75 centimetres above the ground.

Different agencies and projects can prefer different kinds of trap.

This booklet briefl y looks at devices most likely to be used by communities to catch different predators.

You can get more detailed information about what will work best in your area by talking with staff at your local Department of Conservation offi ce and regional council, or your local Landcare representative. Practical demonstrations and ideas are provided on the How to Save Kiwi DVD.

StoatsStoats are one of three mustelid species introduced to New Zealand – the others are ferrets and weasels.

Stoats are the most abundant and widespread. They are active during the day, and especially good climbers and swimmers.

They are opportunists and eat anything – rodents, birds, weta, lizards and kiwi chicks. They kill more than 50% of all kiwi chicks in areas where they are not controlled.

TRAPSStoats are notoriously diffi cult to trap, so be prepared to experiment with different sites, different tunnel types and different lures, and to take time and care when positioning or setting the trap.

Check trap lines every two to three weeks over summer – refresh the baits and spring each trap.

In winter, trap checks can be less frequent as bait keeps longer and stoats are generally less active.

A stoat caught in a DOC 200 trap

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Trapping is usually done with DOC 150 or DOC 200 or fenn kill traps; Victor and Timms traps are less effective for stoats. Traps must be set under covers as all three mustelids are particularly attracted to tunnels. The Department of Conservation website has a handout on tunnel designs (visit www.doc.govt.nz – do a search for stoats).

Two-trap tunnels are very effective. With the bait in the middle between the traps, the pest animal is forced to cross over a trap to get to it.

If using only one trap, a fi ne mesh at the bait end means the stoat can see it, but has to enter the tunnel from the other end and go over the trap to reach it. Salted rabbit bait works well, as do eggs, fi sh and rodents.

Place traps under a little overhead vegetation along streams, tracks, roads, fencelines and ridges, as these could be routes for stoats.

Space them 100–200 metres apart around the edge of a small bush block. If a larger block is being controlled, you’ll need trap lines through the whole forest. Space traps about 100–200 metres apart along lines that are up to 1 kilometre apart.

Stoat populations recover very quickly so you must persist with control if you want to gain long-term benefi ts.

At the time of publication, self-setting traps have just been introduced. Because they can be set with long-life bait, they will only need to be checked a couple of time a year, and have the potential to increase the area where stoats are controlled.

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CHAPTER 2 : Predator Control & Monitoring

FerretsFerrets are the largest of the mustelids, about the size of a small cat.

They hunt mainly at night, and prefer open areas and bush edges. They eat small animals, including rabbits, rodents, lizards and frogs, and adult and juvenile kiwi.

Ferrets have kits (young) in their dens during October and November.

TRAPSLike stoats, ferrets can be caught in cage traps and/or DOC 250 traps set in tunnels, and they also like rabbit bait.

POISONThey can also be poisoned. ‘Pestoff’ is a protein-based anti-coagulant ferret poison, using diaphacinone, and made by Animal Control Products (ACP). It is available from rural and farm suppliers, or directly from ACP. While available for public use, it must be used in tunnel bait stations to protect non-target animals.

RatsNew Zealand has four species of rodent: kiore, Norway rat, ship rat and the house mouse. All were introduced.

Kiore are regarded as a valued species (taonga) by some iwi, and are now confi ned to offshore islands and remote parts of Fiordland.

Rats and mice are usually in the bush in high numbers and pose two problems.

First, they eat insects and the fruit and seeds that feed birds and allow forests to regenerate – kiwi chicks tend to be slower growing when there are many rodents around.

Second, rats and mice are food for the kiwi’s predators and help keep populations of cats and mustelids high.

Tree climbing ship rats are also increasingly recognised as killers in their own right, especially of smaller birds and their eggs.

It is preferable to do rodent control immediately after a possum poisoning operation, as there will be fewer possums to eat the rodent baits.

TRAPSRats will sometimes be caught in leg-hold, fenn or Timms traps set for other pests, but it is better to target them with rat traps or poison. Victor type snap rat traps, set under a cover, can be used.

Trapping is usually done on a relatively small scale, but has been successful when a grid system is used at 50 x 50 metre spacings.

Photo: Malcolm PullmanFerret in a double set of Fenn traps which are under a wooden tunnel

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Ship rat climbing on a philproof bait station

Bait the traps with bacon, white chocolate or a mixture of peanut butter and rolled oats, and make sure they are covered to prevent risk to other birdlife.

POISONSPoisons such as 1080, diphacinone (marketed as ‘Ditrac’ or ‘Ratabait’) and cholecalciferol (marketed as ‘Feracol’ or ‘Campaign’) can be used in bait stations to kill rats and mice. 1080 is only available for use by regional councils and the Department of Conservation.

A variety of poisons are continually being tested and updated. For the latest information about commercially available rodent poisons and bait stations contact the nearest Department of Conservation or regional council offi ce. Note that if you choose to kill possums with cyanide, this won’t kill rodents so you will need to also use a different control method.

Cats and DogsDogs are a major problem for kiwi and kill many birds every year, but, along with domestic cats, we don’t tend to think of them as animal pests or predators. They’re both covered in more detail the next chapter.

Dog Image

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CHAPTER 2 : Predator Control & Monitoring

PossumsPossums are pests for several reasons. They eat kiwi habitat and compete with kiwi for burrows; they kill adult kiwi and chicks; and they eat kiwi eggs.

There are many techniques for killing possums. They can be trapped, poisoned or shot. The method you choose will best suit what you want to achieve, and how much time and money you have.

Advice is available from local Department of Conservation and regional council offi ces. Pest control suppliers also provide information packages.

It is most effective to begin with an intensive blitz, followed by a long-term maintenance regime. The most effective initial blitz methods are poisoning with either 1080, cyanide or cholecalciferol.

Regional councils have contractors who carry out possum control for landowners – contact your local council for a quote.

TRAPSCage traps are useful (on a small scale) if you need to positively identify the caught animal before it is killed – for instance, if there’s a risk of catching non-target species.

Leg-hold traps can be used, and must have soft jaws just in case the wrong animal is caught. Many kiwi have missing toes or feet, or damaged beaks, because of leg-hold traps with hard jaws. To avoid catching kiwi, set soft-jaw traps at least 75 centimetres off the ground, either on tree trunks, a sloping log or a plywood platform. Space traps about 40 metres apart for effective control. By law, leg-hold traps need to be checked daily.

Several types of possum kill traps are on the market, such as Timms, the SA possum trap, the Warrior and the Trapinator.

Talk to people who use them to help decide which suits your situation best. Bait with fruit (sprinkled with cinnamon) or a commercially available possum pre-feed paste.

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A Victor leghold trap in a scott board tree mount

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Traps should be on ridges and spurs, beside tracks, the bush edge, or where possum sign is visible – such as on ‘scratch’ trees, easily recognisable as the bark is shredded near to the ground; and on possum runs, smooth trails through grass, about 20 centimetres wide.

Traps need to be at least 75 centimetres off the ground. Any trap set on the ground is a potential disaster for kiwi.

POISONSA number of poisons are registered to use on possums, including cyanide, cholecalciferol and 1080.

Cyanide is in regular use. It can be used as a paste or in a capsule form (‘Feratox’).

Cyanide is highly toxic and kills in seconds – including humans. You must be trained and have a licence to use it.

Licences can be obtained through the Environmental Risk Management Authority (ERMA), after paying a fee and sitting an exam. Cyanide can also kill kiwi, so if using the paste, place the poison at least 75 centimetres off the ground and out of reach.

1080 is a registered poison and can only be used by approved handlers. It is only available to pest control agencies such as regional councils and the Department of Conservation.

Cholecalciferol can be used as a fi rm paste in bulk, or in a pre-packed bag or container. It does not require a licence to use.

SHOOTINGNight shooting possums with spotlights can be effective, particularly in more open terrain and around bush margins. The return for effort is seldom better than using traps or poison, but regular shoots can help gauge the number of possums in an area. The fur can also be plucked from freshly killed possums and sold to help cover your costs. You will need a fi rearms licence and must comply with all legal and safety requirements.

Possums are most commonly shot with a .22 rifl e with a 4-power telescopic sight that has a front element of at least 32 millimetres to enhance night vision. A 12-volt rechargeable battery in a backpack or shoulder sling can power a hand-held spotlight. Dry cell batteries avoid the risk of acid spills.

HedgehogsHedgehogs are not kiwi killers, but they are introduced to New Zealand, and they do compete for the kiwi’s food – native insects and snails.

Hedgehogs also eat the eggs of ground nesting birds.

They can be in the bush in large numbers, and can be caught in kill traps, such as fenn traps, set under tunnels.

They often become stuck in the tunnel entrance of a mustelid or possum trap, or caught in the trap itself.

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CHAPTER 2 : Predator Control & Monitoring

PigsPigs are opportunist scavengers and foragers. Their omnivorous diet includes fern fronds and roots, supplejack, fruits, native snails, worms and centipedes – and the eggs and chicks of ground nesting birds.

Wild pigs excavate and kill kiwi in holes or on their nests, and destroy eggs. They have very large home ranges, are social and can be present in high densities.Sometimes people deliberately (and usually illegally) release wild pigs so they can hunt them. The consequences for kiwi is a double disaster – while some pig dogs can be trained not to hunt kiwi, wild pigs cannot.

FENCINGPigs can be fenced out and are especially shy of electric fences. Because the hot wire needs to be near the ground, these fences must be well maintained. A well maintained mesh fence will also exclude pigs.

HUNTINGPigs can be shot on bush edges where they forage, or lured to a suitable site with offal dumps. While hunting is unlikely to eradicate pigs, any hunting pressure will help reduce the enormous damage wild pigs do. Hunters who use dogs must minimise the risk they pose for kiwi.

The following are the minimum guidelines for kiwi-friendly pig hunters to follow:

• Train your dogs to hunt only pigs, and to be obedient and controllable.

• Put your dogs through a kiwi aversion course.

• Use 2–3 dogs; no more than necessary.

• Use radio-tagged collars on dogs, so lost animals can be located.

• Don’t leave lost dogs in bush overnight – do everything you can to fi nd them before going home. If unsuccessful, report them lost.

• Never take pups in training into kiwi zones, and leave any bird or possum chasers at home.

• Don’t hunt at night when kiwi are more active.

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Photo: Rob Suisted/www.naturespic.com

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• Take injured kiwi to a vet or Department of Conservation offi ce as soon as you can. If you leave it, it will probably die as dog bites quickly become septic.

• Hand any dead kiwi to the Department of Conservation, regardless of how it died. They provide valuable scientifi c information to help save living birds. Feathers are distributed to local Maori weavers to repair kiwi feather cloaks (kahu-kiwi).

CAGESCages are especially useful for smaller patches of bush and areas where there is ongoing re-invasion.

A relatively simple design uses a sheet of reinforcing mesh coiled into a spiral shape and securely anchored to the ground with waratah standards.

Bait the centre of the spiral with meat or fi sh to lure the pigs into it, and tie the opening so that it stays slightly open.

Once they are comfortable with the scenario, position the opening so the pigs have to push it slightly to enter, and can’t escape back out. The angry animals will need to be dispatched carefully.

Find Out MoreMore information is available on the “How to Save Kiwi” DVD and the BNZ Save the Kiwi website – www.savethekiwi.org.nz

Keep Good RecordsIt is important to keep track of what you catch, where and when.

This helps build up a picture of what pests you’re dealing with, and the busiest times of year.

It’s also a good motivator, to show the progress you are making.

Carry a notebook to record what you fi nd at each trap, and at the end of each day, record the results and any other useful data into permanent fi les.

Community groups can use free web-based spreadsheets that allow anyone registered to insert data, which means you can share information online. One example is docs.google.com

It’s also important to have a monitoring programme in place to track whether the pest and predator control is achieving what you’re aiming for.

Tracking tunnels with bait and inkpads can be set so that small animals running through them leave footprints, showing you what pests are still around.

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CHAPTER 2 : Predator Control & Monitoring

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Cats and Dogs

Family pet, or kiwi killer?

All dogs, regardless of their size, breeding or training, are potential kiwi killers. Cats are also a major predator of kiwi.

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Photo: Rob Suisted/www.naturespic.com

CatsCats came to New Zealand on the ships of early European explorers, in the late 1700s.

All ships were rat-infested, and cats were on board to help control them.

It took about 50 years for wild cats to become established here, and since the 1800s they have been chewing through New Zealand’s native wildlife.

Cats travel long distances quickly.

The edges of a wild cat’s large home range often follow natural barriers, such as streams.

A female with kittens seldom moves more than 500 metres from her dens, but tomcats roam up to 20 kilometres.

Cats are active day and night.

They usually stalk alone, but will share their home area with other cats.

Their vision and hearing are acute, but smell is less sensitive. WILD CATS

New Zealand has many wild cats, which are widespread on the mainland and many offshore islands.

Most populations have established from dumped unwanted pets.

They breed quickly – female cats are sexually mature after one year and wild females may have two litters a year.

Wild and wandering cats travel long distances, and have territories ranging from 50-2,000 hectares.

They are seldom seen and naturally cautious, which makes them a diffi cult pest to lure to a trap.

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CHAPTER 3 : Cats and Dogs

TRAPSLive capture cage traps should be used when it is important to not kill family pets.

That allows you to release, unharmed, animals wearing collars, while wild cats can be shot or drowned.

Good places to set traps are near rubbish dumps, offal holes, hay barns, along fence lines, waterways, roads and tracks, and in vegetation-free areas under trees.

Make sure no vegetation will prevent the door from closing.

Smoked fi sh is a good long-lasting lure.

For wild tom cats, you can use the scent of a female domestic cat – let her sleep in the cage before putting it outside, and place her bedding or dirt box in the cage.

Fine chicken wire at the rear and sides of the cage will stop harrier hawks pulling the bait through the bars.

One cage per 10 hectares will give adequate control.

In larger areas cages should be moved to a new site every three months. By law, live capture cages must be checked daily.

If there is no risk of killing domestic cats, then kill traps, such as the Timms or SA cat traps, can be used.

A recommended modifi cation to the Timms trap is to enlarge the keyhole by 10 millimetres on each side.

Leg-hold traps will catch cats if strategically placed. Only soft jaw versions should be used, such as a Victor 1.5. Again, by law, each trap must be checked daily and the catch dispatched humanely.

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Havahart live capture trap

Wild cat with transmitter on in a live capture box trap

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A simple set-up uses a horizontal or sloping board attached to a tree trunk (out of the reach of kiwi) with a meat lure above the trap.

This may need to be under cover, to avoid attracting (and catching) hawks or other birds.

One trap for cats can be laid in a line of traps set for possums.

The trap’s chain must be long enough for a caught animal to be able to sit on the ground.

POISON‘Pestoff’, the ACP ferret poison, is also effective on cats.

Secondary poisoning can also be effective if cats prey on poisoned rodents and/or possums.

HOUSE CATS ALSO KILL KIWINot only wild cats kill kiwi.

If you live near an area with kiwi there are several things you can do:• Neuter or spay your cat. • Feed it well. • Put a bell collar on it.• Keep it inside at night.• When it dies, don’t replace it.

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SA cat trap safely mounted on a ramp out of the reach of kiwi

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CHAPTER 3 : Cats and Dogs

DogsMan’s best friend is not the kiwi’s best friend. All dogs, regardless of their size, breeding or training, are potential kiwi killers.

Dogs fi nd the strong distinctive scent of kiwi irresistible and easy to track. They can catch and kill a kiwi in seconds because the bird has no wing muscles to protect its chest, which is easily crushed in a dog’s mouth.

That’s why even highly trained kiwi dogs must always wear a muzzle when working. Dogs don’t eat the kiwi; it’s simply a natural instinct.

A dog with a penchant for kiwi can quickly wipe out whole populations; it’s a story kiwi workers have heard too many times. By killing adult birds, dogs take the breeders out of the population.

Without dogs or ferrets, brown kiwi in Northland would live to more than 50 years. Instead, they are lucky to reach 13 years.

In the fi ve years to June 1995, dogs killed 135 kiwi in Northland – 70% of all the reported kiwi deaths in the region. Researchers say that, without dogs, Northland’s brown kiwi numbers would be self-sustaining.

WHAT YOU CAN DOBy keeping their dog under control, even people who don’t get involved in a community kiwi project can still make a huge contribution to kiwi’s survival.

The very safest option if you live in an area where kiwi live, is not to have a dog at all. If you do have a dog, stop it from ever going into the bush.

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HUNTING DOGSAlong with having their dogs trained to avoid kiwi, hunters can reduce the threat their animals pose by training them well, giving them plenty of work, using tracking collars, keeping them under control when in the bush, and staying out of the bush at night, when kiwi are more active.

Any injured birds need to be taken to a vet as soon as possible, as dog bites quickly become infected.

If kiwi can wander close to your house, it is vital that they never meet your dog.

You could build a fence to keep kiwi out and dogs in.

Or at night, keep your dog indoors or tied up in an enclosure that kiwi can’t get into – many kiwi die during canine night-time hunting sprees.

You can also train your dog to be less attracted to kiwi, which is especially important for hunters who use dogs.

The “How to Save Kiwi” DVD shows examples of kiwi aversion training.

You can fi nd out more by contacting your local Department of Conservation offi ce.

You can also help stop dogs killing kiwi by:• Taking wandering dogs to the local

council dog ranger.• Talking about pet care and control

with your neighbours.• Encouraging councils to apply ‘no pet’

clauses to new subdivisions.• Taking unwanted pets to the SPCA.

HELPFUL RESOURCESBNZ Save the Kiwi can help you deliver the dog safety message.

Stickers, brochures, kiwi information and ‘kiwi zone’ signs can be ordered from www.savethekiwi.org.nz

More ideas on dealing with dogs are in the Guidebook to kiwi advocacy, available via request.

For more information about kiwi aversion training for dogs, contact the Department of Conservation.

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NO DOGS ALLOWED

KIWI ZONEHELP US PROTECT KIWI

DOGS KILL KIWI

AAAAALLLLLLLLLLOOOOWEKILL KIWI

DOGS ARE A BIG PROBLEM FOR KIWIYOU CAN HELP

Do you know what your dog is up to when

you can’t see it?Keep dogs away from places wild kiwi live.

Keep your dog under control at all times. Department of Conservation Area Offi ce

Visit the BNZ Save the Kiwi website

Your Local Kiwi Conservation Group

Find out more about kiwi protection projects and dog aversion training near you:

www.savethekiwi.org.nz

DON’T MIX

KIWI & DOGS

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CHAPTER 3 : Cats and Dogs

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BNZ Operation Nest Egg™ is a powerful tool, particularly for vulnerable kiwi populations in small areas.

BNZ Operation Nest Egg™

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Kiwi eggs and chicks are removed from the wild and hatched and/or raised in captivity until big enough to fend for themselves – usually around one kilogram. They are then returned to the wild. A BNZ Operation Nest Egg™ bird has a 65% chance of surviving to adulthood – compared to just 5% for wild born and raised chicks.

The BeginningThe idea for BNZ Operation Nest Egg™ was hatched in 1994 when researchers noticed that older, heavier chicks were better able to defend themselves against deadly stoats.

With funding from BNZ, a pilot successfully adapted an existing Department of Conservation ‘operation nest egg’ technique. Since 1995, it has been used in the most vulnerable populations and today more than 200 kiwi are returned to the wild every year.

If the egg is viable and old enough, it is placed in a padded box (usually a chilly bin) and carefully transported to a captive facility for incubation and hatching.

Five captive-rearing facilities support BNZ Operation Nest Egg™: Auckland Zoo, Kiwi Encounter at Rainbow Springs in Rotorua, Pukaha Mount Bruce in the Wairarapa, Napier’s Westshore Wildlife Reserve, and Willowbank Wildlife reserve in Christchurch – in partnership with the Department of Conservation.

Three facilities hatch most chicks – Kiwi Encounter, Auckland Zoo and Willowbank Wildlife Reserve.

How it WorksSTAGE ONEStage one is when eggs, and sometimes chicks, are lifted from burrows.

Ideally the eggs are about 45 days old, or half way through the incubation stage. The kiwi worker shines a light from behind the egg (called ‘candling’) to see if the embryo is alive inside the shell, and to record its stage of development.

Eggs younger than 10 days are put back in the nest and checked again in a month.

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CHAPTER 4 : BNZ Operation Nest Egg™

STAGE TWOStage two of BNZ Operation Nest Egg™ is the kiwi crèches.

Hatched and healthy young birds are sent to predator-proof sanctuaries until big enough to safely return to the wild.

Many crèches are managed by community-led kiwi groups, with support from their communities and BNZ Save the Kiwi Trust.

The Benefi tsRAPID POPULATION BOOSTBNZ Operation Nest Egg™ is particularly good at helping populations of the most rare kiwi to rapidly recover. For example, at Okarito kiwi sanctuary, it was used to boost rowi numbers by 25% over the six years from 2002.

The tool is also used to bring kiwi back to places from which they had disappeared; to quickly bump up declining populations; and to help larger populations recapture their former range. To make sure the unique gene pools and adaptations of each kiwi population are preserved, chicks are returned to the wild populations they were gathered from, or used to establish entirely new, discrete populations.

STAGE THREEStage three is when the juveniles are returned to the wild; most often to where they were collected as an egg or chick.

This happens when the young birds weigh about 1kg, and are better able to defend themselves against stoats.

Advocating for KiwiWhen juvenile birds are large enough to leave the creche and return to their wild homes, local people involved in kiwi conservation are sometimes given the opportunity to hold the birds before they are released. This is a magic moment, leaving people with ‘the kiwi grin’.

Because Ma-ori recognise the important relationship between living things and the land on which they were born, and kiwi hold a special place in Ma-ori culture, there is often a ceremony to welcome the young kiwi back to the place of their birth.

These opportunities, where kiwi touch people’s hearts, make BNZ Operation Nest Egg™ a powerful advocacy tool.

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INCREASING KNOWLEDGEBNZ Operation Nest Egg™ has helped researchers learn a lot about kiwi behaviour, breeding, diseases and parasites, which all improve the success of captive husbandry. One example is the discovery that kiwi males turn the eggs during incubation, which has improved hatching success in incubators.

Two techniques developed to test the health of eggs are:

• To balance a strand of dry spaghetti against the egg – if it vibrates, there is life inside the shell.

• Egg candling - holding the egg up to a light to check if the egg is viable, and how old the chick is.

BNZ Save the Kiwi Trust sponsors workshops each year to make sure kiwi workers have the candling skills to correctly identify and age wild-collected eggs. If collected too soon, eggs are less likely to successfully hatch. People also learn the best ways to handle and transport eggs.

Information about dates and how to enrol on candling courses is on the BNZ Save the Kiwi website – www.savethekiwi.org.nz

Find Out MoreMore information about BNZ Operation Nest EggTM and egg candling training courses is available on the BNZ Save the Kiwi website – www.savethekiwi.org.nz

Buying TimeBNZ Operation Nest Egg™ helps boost kiwi populations but it is a very labour-intensive and costly. It also does not benefi t the whole ecosystem, which trapping and poisoning pests and predators does. It is not intended to be a long-term management tool, but it is buying us precious time while we look for long-term sustainable ways to control predators over large areas.

Candling a kiwi egg to check it’s viable

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CHAPTER 4 : BNZ Operation Nest Egg™

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When a kiwi calls in the night forest, it’s for different reasons – maybe to signal its mate or mark its territory.

Call Count Monitoring

28

The calls are also useful for us – letting us know how many kiwi there are, and where they are.

Combined with records of other sign, such as droppings, feathers and probe holes, counting calls is a useful tool to estimate the size of a kiwi population. Counting calls in the same place over several years builds a picture of what is happening with kiwi numbers and distribution – are you hearing more, fewer or the same number of birds?

Are they in the same places, a smaller area, or has the population expanded over more ground?

In places where animal pest control is happening, call counts should show the benefi ts.

It is usually best to listen for kiwi when the breeding season begins and they are likely to call the most.

This falls between February and June, depending on the species.

Types of MonitoringINFORMAL MONITORING – KIWI REPORTING CARDAnyone who visits the backcountry and can tell the difference between kiwi calls and those of weka, morepork and possums can be part of informal kiwi monitoring.

This information helps show kiwi distribution, and the number of calls recorded enable researchers to roughly work out how many birds there are.

If you hear a kiwi call, or see any other evidence of the birds – such as feathers, probe holes or footprints – record it on a Kiwi Reporting Card, available from the same places as the Kiwi Call Scheme form.

Send completed cards to: Rogan Colbourne Department of Conservation PO Box 10 420 Wellington 6143

FORMAL MONITORING PROGRAMMEThe Department of Conservation has a formal kiwi call monitoring programme, run as part of BNZ Save the Kiwi.

Staff and volunteers visit specifi c sites at specifi c times. In Northland and the fi ve kiwi sanctuaries this happens every year. Elsewhere, it is usually on a fi ve-year cycle.

Calls recorded as part of a regular monitoring programme are written up on a Kiwi Call Scheme form, available from Department of Conservation offi ces.

If you are interested in helping, contact your local Department of Conservation offi ce.

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CHAPTER 5 : Call Count Monitoring

Setting up a Monitoring ProgrammeWhen setting up monitoring stations, choose sites that are up high and provide a wide view, rather than being in a valley or the bush.

Listening sessions should be during the dark phase of the moon, for two hours just after nightfall.

Listening should happen on at least four still nights, and, if possible, the same people should monitor the same site at the same time each year.

Before heading into the hills, be confi dent you can tell the difference between the night calls of other animals and the kiwi’s call, particularly the pukeko, possum, morepork, long tail cuckoo and weka.

You will also need to be familiar with how to fi ll out the forms, how to use a compass and the difference between male and female kiwi calls.

For example, a male brown kiwi has a shrill, high-pitched call that repeats 15-25 times.

The female’s call does not carry as far, and is deep and hoarse. The great spotted kiwi call is similar, with the male a shrill sound and female a deeper call.

Make sure you will be comfortable – take enough warm clothes, something to sit on, food and a warm drink. You will also need a torch, a compass and a clipboard for the forms.

Kiwi Call Count Monitoring Training PackageBNZ Save the Kiwi Trust has developed a package of resources to help train community volunteers in how to monitor kiwi calls.

If you have experience in monitoring kiwi and would like to share it, you can request the training package by emailing savethekiwitrust@bnz.co.nz

It includes a training booklet, a CD of different calls to help people learn the difference between other animals and kiwi, and a certifi cate for everyone who completes the training.

If you have any questions about call count monitoring, please contact the Trust’s national mentor for advocacy, Wendy Sporle – kiwendi@xtra.co.nz

Written by Wendy SporleNational Mentor for Advocacy – BNZ Save the Kiwi

Call Count Monitoring Training PackageFOR COMMUNITY KIWI PROJECTS

www.savethekiwi.org.nz

nddyor ff

Kiwi Call Count Monitoring Certificate

www.savethekiwi.org.nz

Supervised and tutored by:

This is to certify that

of

(affiliation)

has completed kiwi call count monitoring training.

Name

Signature

From (affiliation)

BNZ Save the Kiwi

Date

Region

Printed on recycled paper

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Find Out MoreYou can fi nd out more about how to monitor kiwi from the Kiwi Best Practice Manual, and the Kiwi call count monitoring training pack, available by emailing savethekiwitrust@bnz.co.nz

Specialised Monitoring MethodsSpecialised methods are also used to monitor kiwi, include using radio telemetry and specially trained kiwi-fi nding dogs.

This work requires specialist skills and permits. Trained kiwi dogs are especially useful when monitoring high-density kiwi populations, as they help their handlers fi nd birds quickly, to gather information on the age and sex ratios in the population.

Remember to ask landowner permission (if needed), tell someone where you are going, and bring a watch to record the times calls are heard.

Record what you hear on a Kiwi Call Scheme form, using a new sheet for each hour spent listening. Results will differ depending on the conditions, and not all kiwi call every night. Young birds do not usually call until they are 2–3 years old.

Send a copy of your data to: National monitoring co-ordinator Department of Conservation PO Box 10 420 Wellington 6143

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CHAPTER 5 : Call Count Monitoring

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Before humans arrived, kiwi were found the length and breadth of New Zealand. We have greatly changed the face of this land.

Much native forest cover has been converted into pasture or towns, and many original ecosystems are reduced to a patchwork of isolated fragments.

Habitat Protection

32

Land clearance affects kiwi in three main ways:• They can be killed when land is

cleared by burning or roller crushing. • It concentrates kiwi and their

predators into smaller areas.• The kiwi’s social organisation is

affected. Kiwi are ferociously territorial and less habitat means more competition for space, more boundary wars, less breeding, and more birds pushed out into farmland where they can fall foul of dogs.

• Leave escape routes for kiwi when clearing land or logging plantations.

• Seek advice from the Department of Conservation before carrying out major land development.

• If planning a sub-division, make it pet-free.

• Control feral goats, possums, wild cats, stoats, ferrets, wild pigs and wandering stock.

• Let neighbours and visitors know kiwi live on your land, so they don’t let their dogs roam.

• Restrict or control dogs on your property.

Long-term ProtectionOne option to create long-term protection is to covenant natural areas.

Covenants and kawenata can be made with local authorities, the Department of Conservation and independent organisations, such as:• The Queen Elizabeth II National Trust –

covenants are written on the title of the land and bind existing and future land owners in perpetuity. Some funding help is available for fencing and, in some districts the covenanted land qualifi es for rating relief. More information is available at www.openspace.org.nz

• The Nga- Whenua Ra-hui Fund helps Ma-ori owners identify and protect land with signifi cant native forest. More information is available at www.doc.govt.nz – search for Nga- Whenua Ra-hui

• The Nature Heritage Fund provides a range of protection options, including buying indigenous natural areas to protect them, if this is appropriate. More information is available at www.doc.govt.nz – search for Nature Heritage Fund

Adaptable BirdsThankfully, kiwi are adaptable birds and live in many different types of places – native forest and scrub; sand dunes and snowy tussocks; even mangroves.

They especially like places where stands of trees run down to rivers and include pockets of wetland vegetation. Kiwi even set up territory in rank grass, gorse and exotic forest, as long as there is suffi cient food. Because they are soil feeders, they prefer places where they can get straight to the dirt, rather than having to probe through the thick leaf litter of a forest fl oor. They dislike places trampled by livestock because the ground is compacted.

Living with KiwiWith a little planning, you can have kiwi on your land and still make a living from it.• Fence off areas of bush, scrub and

regenerating forest.• Leave links between pockets and

corridors of bush and scrub when developing pasture or plantation forests.

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CHAPTER 6 : Habitat Protection

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Exotic forests are an important use of rural land in New Zealand – they contribute to the country’s economy and help sequester carbon, a greenhouse gas.

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Kiwi will happily live in established plantation forests, especially if these retain pockets of native vegetation.

Insects, a favorite kiwi food, are more plentiful in these stands, swamps or wetlands than under exotic trees – especially in summer when the soil in the woodlot hardens and dries out. Kiwi will also retreat into the native remnants when the plantation trees are harvested.

Kiwi can survive and thrive in plantation forests if forest owners and managers plan, establish and manage forest woodlots with the birds’ needs in mind.

Done properly, this will not disrupt how a forest is managed, or its profi tability.

Protecting kiwi and retaining enough habitat for their survival is now an important part of managing a sustainable certifi ed forest.

Contact the Department of Conservation or a local kiwi project to help you manage kiwi during all silvicultural stages.

PLANNINGThis stage is vital for setting up a kiwi-friendly management system.

General rules of thumb are:• Where possible, plan small

compartments.• Stagger the ages of woodlots so kiwi

have somewhere nearby to retreat to during harvesting.

• Long rotation or continuous cover sawlog regimes allow time for bird populations to establish.

• Plan a mixture of species with different maturity times.

Kiwi-Friendly ForestryIn 1995, an accord was signed between forest owners’ associations and conservation groups, including BNZ Save the Kiwi Trust partner, Forest and Bird.

One of its ecological principles is:

”Where threatened species are known to occur within plantation forests and their presence is considered signifi cant by the Department of Conservation, plantation managers shall consult with the Department of Conservation on management practices with the objective of conserving the population.”

www.forestenterprises.co.nz/fgen/fte/accord.htm has more information.

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CHAPTER 7 : Kiwi and Forestry

PREPARING THE LAND • Never use fi re to clear land. If

possible, clear it manually, rather than bulldozing or roller crushing. Employment subsidies may be available to help with this.

• Leave pockets of native vegetation undisturbed, along with corridors of scrub or bush as escape routes for kiwi.

• Maintain natural streamside habitats in steep valleys, along stream banks and in wet areas. This will benefi t many species, including kiwi, help control erosion, maintain water quality and provide shelter for young woodlots.

• Plant in lightwells and clearings and minimise clear felling of scrub.

MAINTAINING THE FOREST• Control predators and pests. Set traps

or lay poison off the ground to avoid harming kiwi.

• Allow only reliable hunters with well-trained dogs to hunt in your forest.

• Consider keeping some areas free from pig hunting with dogs, and control pigs by other methods.

• Make sure any roading and machinery work avoids areas with native trees, and avoid dragging logs through them when cable hauling.

• Include information about kiwi when contractors are trained and briefed.

HARVEST• Involve someone who works in

kiwi conservation as you plan your harvesting programme. They will help you identify where kiwi are. Contact your local Department of Conservation offi ce to ask what support is available.

• When harvesting, work the forest in compartments so that resident kiwi have somewhere to go, away from the action. Selectively log, or log small areas at a time.

• If possible, avoid logging from June to October, the main kiwi nesting time. Birds often sit tight on their nests and can be crushed or forced to abandon their egg.

• Form skid sites and roads without damaging native vegetation.

• Try to avoid burning. If fi re is needed, burn about 10 weeks after logging as kiwi tend to move out as the ground dries. However, don’t burn longer than 5–6 months after logging, as kiwi may have moved back into the regenerating vegetation.

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• If burning rubbish piles, slow burn from one end only to give any resident kiwi an escape route.

• Take any rescued kiwi eggs to the Department of Conservation or kiwi nocturnal houses.

As ground cover begins to grow and insect numbers increase the area will again become usable kiwi habitat.

Find Out MoreTo fi nd out more about how to manage a certifi ed forest, contact companies already doing it, such as Wood Products International (WPI), or the New Zealand Forest Owners Association, which has a threatened species section on its website – http://rarespecies.nzfoa.org.nz

Information is also available from ecological consultants, such as Wildland Consultants, and the Department of Conservation.

BNZ Save the Kiwi Trust has developed a booklet outlining how to protect brown kiwi in exotic forests – this is available upon request by emailing savethekiwitrust@bnz.co.nz

Other Things You Can DoOther things you can do to help protect kiwi in your forest are:• Don’t let people drive on your

forestry roads at night, as kiwi move around then.

• Carry out stoat control.• Ban hunting with dogs, or make

sure any dogs have gone through the kiwi aversion training and wear tracking collars.

• Have a ‘no dogs at work’ policy for workers and contractors, as dogs can catch any kiwi trying to escape from machinery.

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CHAPTER 7 : Kiwi and Forestry

All around New Zealand communities, landowners, iwi and agencies are coming together to care for kiwi.

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Kiwi GroupsNorthland and the Coromandel are the main centres of activity, and projects are also taking root in Taranaki, Bay of Plenty, East Coast / Hawke’s Bay and Wellington, and more are beginning in the South Island.

Co-operative EffortsNeither kiwi nor their predators recognise property boundaries, so working co-operatively as a group across both private and Crown-owned land makes sense.

It increases a project’s effectiveness, the number of people available to help, and improves access to fi nancial support.

If you have wild kiwi living nearby, and they are not being managed, you may like to set up a community kiwi care group.

A kiwi project is the perfect opportunity to draw on the wide range of skills within communities, from those who like to

kill pests; to those whose heart is in catering; to those who are great story-telling advocates.

Talk with people at your local Department of Conservation offi ce.

Details on how to contact all its offi ces is available from the Department’s website – www.doc.govt.nz

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CHAPTER 8 : Starting a Kiwi Protection Project in your Community

The First ThingThe fi rst thing is to be clear about what you are trying to achieve.

That will allow you to map out what needs to happen to achievethose goals.

Reading about other groups and what they have learnt along the way may also be helpful – this information is on BNZ Save the Kiwi’s website, along with the groups’ contact details – www.savethekiwi.org.nz. Look under “Kiwis Saving Kiwi” section.

Once a group is up and running, several things need to be in place to help it work effectively, including:• A realistic strategic plan.• Delegated roles and people to fi ll

them.• Project management.• Access to technical information.• Systems to ensure good

governance.• Access to funding.• The ability to monitor work and

review progress.

FundingFinding funding will be one of your fi rst priorities.

Your project could qualify for BNZ Save the Kiwi Trust funding.

Applications are sought each year and more information is available on www.savethekiwi.org.nz

Every two years, BNZ Save the Kiwi Trust also funds a workshop to help community groups learn how to apply for funds, run effectively and have good governance structures.

Funding may also be available through:• Lottery Grants, administered by the

Department of Internal Affairs.• The New Zealand Landcare Trust,

which provides both funding and logistical support, and advice on where to seek funds.

• The sustainable management fund administered by the Ministry for the Environment. This is for community groups, iwi, businesses and local government agencies taking practical actions to produce long-term environmental benefi ts.

• The Biodiversity Advice and Condition funds, administered by the Department of Conservation.

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Find Out MoreA great deal of useful information about how to set up and run community groups is on the “How to Save Kiwi” DVD, including interviews with Helen Moodie of the New Zealand Landcare Trust, and with Dr Greg Blunden of the New Zealand Kiwi Foundation.

Topics include fencing, animal control, planting, fi re control, health and safety and fundraising.

DEPARTMENT OF INTERNAL AFFAIRSThe Department has developed a practical hands-on Community Resource Kit to help organisations get started and develop good practice in the voluntary sector environment.

1GETTING STARTEDGS

GUIDANCE FOR PEOPLE SETTING UP AND

RUNNING COMMUNITY ORGANISATIONS

WWW.COMMUNITY.NET.NZ

community resource kit

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Other ResourcesBNZ SAVE THE KIWI WEBSITEwww.savethekiwi.org.nz The BNZ Save the Kiwi website has a lot of information about running kiwi projects, as well as links to other information about project sustainability, predator control and operational planning, and templates of forms you can use.

You can also contact the BNZ Save the Kiwi National Mentor for Advocacy for support at kiwendi@xtra.co.nz

The website includes links to:

NZ LANDCARE TRUSTThe Trust has published a report: Long-term Sustainability of Community Biodiversity Protection Projects, which documents a range of projects and funding sources, and identifi es the challenges and threats community groups face, along with some solutions.

The Trust has also published a series of technical advice guidelines has been developed for community projects.

WWF-NEW ZEALAND Not Just Trees in the Ground is a WWF-New Zealand report about the social and economic benefi ts of community-led conservation projects. It identifi es how New Zealanders lives improve when they begin caring for their environment.

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CHAPTER # : Section TitleCHAPTER 8 : Starting a Kiwi Protection Project in your Community

General Use ResourcesHow to Save Kiwi DVDAn eight chapter DVD about kiwi and various aspects of kiwi protection work.

How to Save Kiwi Booklet44 pages of information on how to save kiwi. Mirrors the information on the DVD.

Our Kiwi - Basic Facts About Kiwi *DLE size brochure provides overview of kiwi, their threats and what you can do to help.

Kiwi Forever Education ResourceResource kit for teachers to use in the classroom. Integrates many areas of the curriculum.

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9 Resources to Save Kiwi

* Also available in Te Reo Maori

Kiwi Activity PackTo compliment the Kiwi Forever education resource. Activities for children of all ages.

Kiwis Saving Kiwi Display BannersColourful, easy-to-use display banners with general kiwi information. Available as a 3-panel set for indoors, or a 1-panel banner for outdoors.

Dog Awareness Material *Collection of brochures, posters, displays and signs to promote message to protect kiwi from dogs.

For more information or to request resources please visit the “Resources” section at: www.savethekiwi.org.nz or email: savethekiwitrust@bnz.co.nz

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Specialised ResourcesInjured KiwiA fi eld reference card, fact sheet on what to do if you fi nd an injured kiwi.

Kiwi Zone SignsColourful corefl ute kiwi zone signs. Kiwi projects can personalise the sign by adding their logo.

Kiwi Best Practice ManualThis manual aims to help establish nationwide consistency in the way kiwi are managed and researched.

Kiwi Recovery PlanA 10 year strategic document for kiwi management, research, and community relations and engagement.

Kiwi Call Count Monitoring Training KitKit contains training booklet, CD of kiwi calls, power point presentation and certifi cates of completion. To be used by experienced monitors to train others how to conduct kiwi call count monitoring.

Junior Kaitiaki Certifi cateA children’s certifi cate saying they have learned about kiwi and listened for calls.

Predator Control Outlines *Some initial information on pest and predator control to help plan and implement kiwi protection.

How to Avoid Kiwi When Trapping and Poisoning *A two page fl yer summarising the issues and solutions in order to avoid catching kiwi in traps.

Predator Trapping Guidelines (Northland)How, why, where, when, what regarding predator trapping; collated notes from trappers workshops.

Management Guidelines for Brown Kiwi in Exotic ForestA bound booklet developed as a handout for kiwi projects to give to foresters and contractors when encouraging “kiwi friendly forestry”.

Engaging the Forestry IndustryThis fl yer accompanies Management Guidelines for Brown Kiwi in Exotic Forest. It offers suggestions on how and when approaches could be made to key forestry agencies.

Save the Kiwi WebsiteLearn everything you need to know about kiwi and how to protect them. Send e-cards, view the extensive photo gallery, listen to kiwi calls or just browse the hundreds of pages about kiwi on the site.

Kiwi Practitioners AreaJoin forums, check the wiki and use the contacts directory in the kiwi practioners login area of the website.

Kiwi ClassroomFind learning and fun activities for children.

KiwiShopUnique kiwi gift ideas available via secure online shop. All profi ts go to kiwi work funded by BNZ Save the Kiwi Trust.

www.savethekiwi.org.nz

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CHAPTER 9 : Resources to Save Kiwi

For more information about kiwi visit:

KIWI300103

www.savethekiwi.org.nz

Chick release on Motuara Island – Photo: Liz Brown