ROADTRIPS

ICELAND’S RING ROAD

This edition written and researched by

Andy Symington, Alexis Averbuck, Carolyn Bain

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

1 Sights

r Beaches

2 Activities

C Courses

T Tours

z Festivals & Events

4 Sleeping

5 Eating

6 Drinking

3 Entertainment

7 Shopping

8 Information & Transport

Tips from Locals

Top Tips

Link Your Trips

Trip Detour

Family

History & Culture

K Food & Drink

Outdoors

5 Eating

Essential Photo

Walking Tour

4 Sleeping

These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing:

Symbols In This BookHOW TO USE THIS BOOK

ReviewsIn the Destinations section: All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:

Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference.

Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by author preference.

Map Legend

% Telephone number

h Opening hours p Parking n Nonsmoking a Air-conditioning i Internet access WWi-fiaccess s Swimming pool v Vegetarian

selection E English-language

menu c Family-friendly

# Pet-friendly g Bus f Ferry j Tram d Train apt apartments d double rooms dm dorm beds q quad rooms r rooms s single rooms ste suites tr triple rooms tw twin rooms

Walk Track/Path

River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveCanalWaterDry/Salt/ Intermittent LakeGlacier

Beach

Cemetery (Christian)Cemetery (Other)ParkForest

Sportsground

International

Cliff

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian Overpass

Tunnel

Walk RouteLinked TripTrip DetourTrip Route

Airport

Metro station

Train/Railway

Cable Car/ Funicular

Highway marker

ReservationUrban Area

Trip Stop

Tram

Trip Numbers

Walking tour

Trip Detour

Parking

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimarySecondary

Unsealed Road

Transport

Hydrography

Areas

Boundaries

Population

Routes

Highway Markers

Trips

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Glacier

CONTENTS

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Iceland’s Ring Road......................... 4

Iceland’s Ring Road Map ................................. 6

Iceland’s Ring Road Highlights ...................... 8

Reykjavík City Guide ......................10

Need to Know ..................................12

Ring Road Planner ..........................14

Outdoor Adventures Map ...............16

Hot-Pot Hop .....................................18

Wildlife Watching .......................... 20

ROAD TRIPS

1 The Golden Circle & the

Southwest 2–3 Days .... 24

2 Southeast Iceland 3–4 Days ..... 34

3 East Iceland 2–3 Days ..... 44

4North Iceland 4–5 Days ..... 52

5West Iceland 1–2 Days ..... 64

DESTINATIONS

Reykjavik .........................................74

Around the Ring Road ................... 96

Þingvellir National Park ...........96

Laugarvatn ...........................97

Geysir & Gullfoss ....................97

Flúðir ..................................98

Hvolsvöllur & Around ...............98

Skógar .................................98

Vík ......................................99

Kirkjubæjarklaustur............... 100

Skaftafell ........................... 101

Hali to Höfn ........................ 103

Höfn ................................. 103

Djúpivogur .......................... 104

Egilsstaðir & Around ............. 104

Mývatn & Around ................. 106

Akureyri ............................. 109

Varmahlíð ........................... 113

Hvammstangi & Around ......... 113

Borgarnes & Around ............. 114

Hvalfjörður ......................... 117

ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS ....118

33

1 The Golden Circle & the Southwest 2–3 DaysA stunning region of iconic wonders, including Iceland’s historic parliament and the original geyser. (p24)

2 Southeast Iceland 3–4 DaysA captivatingly vast and surreal landscape

dominated by mighty Vatnajökull ice cap. (p34)

3 East Iceland 2–3 DaysA quieter landscape of fishing villages, black-

sand beaches, mountains and fjords. (p44)

4 North Iceland 4–5 Days An epic ride northeast across geologically spectacular landscapes packed full of highlights. (p52)

5 West Iceland 1–2 Days A compact tour through Saga country, from highland glaciers to ocean-fringed coastline near the capital. (p64)

Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon (p36)KAVRAM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Road Trips

Reykjavík (p74)Iceland’s addictive capital is where everything’s at, and has a heady blend of fresh air, stylish design, artfully hip cafes and bars, fabulous and unusual museums plus a thriving restaurant scene.

The Golden Circle (p96)In striking distance of the capital, this circuit com-prises some standout natural attractions, including the world’s oldest parliament, shifting tectonic plates, the original geyser and a stunning waterfall.

Akureyri (p109)Iceland’s second city packs a punch for a diminutive town and is worth getting to know. There’s a quality restaurant and art scene, and the only decent nightlife beyond Reykjavík.

Reykjavík (p74)TTSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Destinations

Aaccommodation 13, 124-6

reservations 27Reykjavík 11, 85-7

activities 16-17, 16-17, see also individual activities

air travel 124Akureyri 56, 60-1,

109-13, 110Alþingi 59animals 21, see also

individual animalsÁrbær Open Air Museum 80Arctic foxes 21, 116area codes 130Arnarstapi 68art galleries, see museums

& galleriesÁsgrímur Jónsson

Collection 75Askja 60ATMs 128Aurora Reykjavík 79

Bbeer 38, 62, 92Berufjörður 104Berunes 47-8bicycle travel, see cyclingbirds, see

individual species

birdwatching 21Borgarfjörður Eystri 14 Grímsey 61Ingólfshöfði 39Mývatn 59Vestmannaeyjar 32Viðey 88

Bláfjöll 81Blue Lagoon 87boat tours 32, 41, 81boat travel 124Borg á Mýrum 67Borgarfjörður 67Borgarfjörður Eystri 14Borgarfjördur Museum 114Borgarnes 66-7, 114-17, 115Breiðármörk Trail 102-3Breiðdalsvík 48, 50, 104Breiðdalur 50-1, 104bus travel 15business hours 128-9

Ccampervans 121camping 124-5car travel, see drivingcell phones 131churches

Akureyrarkirkja 61Hallgrímskirkja

(Reykjavík) 71, 78Hallgrímskirkja

(Saurbær) 68

Núpsstaður 37Papey 47

climate 12costs 13, 126, 127craters, see volcanoes

& craters credit cards 128Culture House 75currency 128cycling 15

Reykjavík 81, 95Kirkjubæjarklaustur 100Mývatn 108

Ddangers, see safetyDeildartunguhver 70detours from Ring Road 14Dettifoss 55-6Diamond Circle 14Dimmuborgir 58disabilities, travellers

with 131Djúpivogur 47, 104dog sledding 56, 70, 108driving 118-23

car hire 15, 120-1documents 119driving licence 119F roads 122fuel 122-3insurance 119maps 119-20000 Map pages

INDEX

135

©Lone- ly Planet Publications Pty Ltd

driving (continued)road distances 123road rules 122safety 121-2websites 120

DVDs 128

EEast Iceland 44-51, 46Egil’s Saga 67Egilsstaðir 51, 104-6, 105Eldfell 32Eldhraun 36electricity 127emergencies 12environmental issues 90, 130Esja 69Eyjafjallajökull 31

FF roads 122farmhouse

accommodation 125-6festivals & events

Akureyri 56, 111Borgarnes 114Höfn 103Reykjavík 81, 84-5

Fimmvörðuháls 31, 99Fjallabak Nature

Reserve 29Fjalladýrð 55Fjallsárlón 40Fjaðrárgljúfur 36-7Fláajökull 42-3flies 108Flúðir 28-9, 98food 13, 90, 127fuel 122-3

Ggalleries, see museums

& galleriesGame of Thrones 30gas 122-3gay travellers 127geological dangers 129-30geothermal springs 19, see

also spasBlue Lagoon 87Borgarnes 67Deildartunguhver 70Gamla Laugin 29Geysir 28 Landmannalaugar 29Laugardalslaug 80Laugardalur 79, 80Laugarvatn 27Mývatn Nature Baths 57Reykjavík 80, 81safety 129-30Strandir Coast 116Sundhöllin 80

Geysir 28, 97-8Gjáin 30glaciers & ice caps 42, 130

Eyjafjallajökull 31 Fjallsárlón 40Fláajökull 42-3 Hoffellsjökull 43Jökulsárlón 9, 40-1, 102-3 Langjökull 70Mýrdalsjökull 32safety 100, 130Skaftafell 9, 38-9, 101-2Snæfellsjökull 68Sólheimajökull 32 Vatnajökull 9, 38, 40walks 42Þórsmörk 14, 29

Glaumbær 62Gljúfrasteinn Laxness

Museum 97

Glymur 68-9Golden Circle 25-33, 96-8Goðafoss 59-60Grímsey 61Grundarfjörður 68Gullfoss 28, 97-8

HHafnarfjall 67-8Háifoss 30hákarl 90Hali 41, 103Hallgrímskirkja

(Reykjavík) 71, 78Hallgrímskirkja (Saurbær) 68Harpa 71, 77-8Heimaey 32Heinabergsjökull 41-2Hekla 30Helgafell 32Hellnar 68Hengifoss 51Herðubreið 60Herðubreiðarlindir 60highlands, the 29, 60highlights 8-9hiking

Breiðármörk Trail 102-3

Esja 69Fimmvörðuháls 99Hafnarfjall 67Hornstrandir nature

reserve 116Hvalfjörður 68-9Laugavegurinn 29safety 129-30

hitchhiking 15Hjálparfoss 30Hlíðarfjall 56Hljómskálagarður 75Hoffellsjökull 43Höfn 43, 103-4Höfði 59

000 Map pages

136136

IND

EX D-H

holidays 129Hólmur 42-3Hornstrandir nature

reserve 116hot pots, see geothermal

springshot springs, see geothermal

springsHraunfossar 70Húsafell 70Húsavik 58Hvalfjörður 68-9, 117Hvammstangi 62-3, 113-14Hvanneyri 67Hverir 56-7Hvítserkur 63Hvolsvöllur 30-1, 98

Iice caps, see glaciers

& ice caps ice caves 42, see also

glaciers & ice capsIcelandic language 132-3Icelandic Phallological

Museum 76-7Illugastaðir 63Ingólfshöfði 39, 102insurance 119internet access 127

JJökulsá á Fjöllum 60Jökulsárlón 9, 40-1, 102-3

KKeldur 30Kirkjubæjarklaustur

37, 100-1Kirkjufell 68Kirkjugólf 37Kling & Bang 79Krafla 56, 106-7, 107

LLagarfljót 51Landeyjahöfn 32Landmannalaugar 29Langjökull 70language 132-3Laugar Spa 80Laugardalslaug 80Laugardalur 79-80Laugarvatn 27-8, 97Laugavegur 71, 75-8Laugavegurinn hike 29lava fields, see also

volcanoes & cratersBlue Lagoon 87Borgarnes 66 Dimmuborgir 58Hraunfossar 70Krafla 56Lofthellir 107Snæfellsnes

Peninsula 14, 68Laxness, Halldór 97Leirhnjúkur 56lesbian travellers 127Ljósafoss Power

Station 96local experiences 50Lofthellir 107Lómagnúpur 37-8, 101

MMalarrif 68maps 119-20measures 128midges 108mobile phones 131money 128motorcycles, see driving Möðrudalur 54-5, 106museums & galleries

Árbær Open Air Museum 80

Ásgrímur Jónsson Collection 75

Aurora Reykjavík 79Borgarfjördur Museum 114Culture House 75 Gljúfrasteinn Laxness

Museum 97Icelandic Phallological

Museum 76-7 Kling & Bang 79 National Gallery of

Iceland 75National Museum 70-1, 74Reykjavík Art Museum –

Ásmundarsafn 79Reykjavík Art Museum –

Hafnarhús 74-5Reykjavík Art Museum –

Kjarvalsstaðir 78Saga Museum 71Settlement Centre 67Settlement Exhibition

71, 74Sigurgeir’s Bird

Museum 59 Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum

75, 79 Skógar Folk Museum 32Sögusetrið 30 Víkin Maritime Museum 71Whales of Iceland 71, 79Þórbergssetur 41

music 122Mýrdalsjökull 32Mývatn 56, 57, 58-9,

106-9, 107

NNational Gallery of

Iceland 75National Museum 70-1, 74Nauthólsvík Geothermal

Beach 80-1newspapers 128Njál’s Saga 30

137137

IND

EX H-O

North Iceland 52-63, 54-55Núpsstaður 37

OÓdáðahraun 60Old Harbour

(Reykjavík) 71, 78-9Omnom Chocolate 71, 78-9opening hours 128-9Ósland 43

PPapey 47petrol 122-3planning 14-21plugs 127public holidays 129puffin meat 90puffin watching 21

Borgarfjörđur Eystri 21Grímsey 61Heimaey 32Húsavik 58Ingólfshöfði 39Papey 47Reykjavík 81Vestmannaeyjar 32Vík 33

Rresponsible travel 90, 100,

130Reykjahlíð 57-8Reykjavík 9, 10-11, 69-71,

74-95, 76-7, 82-3accommodation 11, 85-7activities 80-1courses 81drinking & nightlife 91-3entertainment 93festivals & events 81, 84-5

food 11, 87-91history 74medical services 94shopping 93-4sights 74-80tourist offices 94tours 81travel to/from 95travel within 95websites 11

Reykjavík Art Museum – Ásmundarsafn 79

Reykjavík Art Museum – Hafnarhús 74-5

Reykjavík Art Museum – Kjarvalsstaðir 78

Reykjavík Botanic Gardens 79

ridesharing 15road rules 122road distances 123Route F985 41

Ssafety 129-30

beaches 100driving 121-2geological dangers 129-30glaciers 100, 130

Saga Museum 71sagas 30, 67, 98sandur 38seals 21senior travellers 128Settlement Centre 67Settlement Exhibition 71, 74Seyðisfjörður 51shark meat 90Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum 59Sigurjón Ólafsson

Museum 75, 79Skaftafell 9, 38-9, 101-2Skansinn 32Skeiðarársandur 38

skiing 56, 81, 110-11Skógar 31-3, 98-9Skógar Folk Museum 32Skólavörðustígur 71, 75-8Skútustaðagígar 59smoking 128Snorrastofa 70snowmobiling 56Snæfellsjökull National

Park 68Snæfellsnes

Peninsula 14, 68Snæfellsstofa – National

Park Visitor Centre 104-5Sögusetrið 30Sólheimajökull 32 Southeast Iceland

34-43, 36-7Southwest Iceland

25-33, 26-7spas, see also geothermal

springsBlue Lagoon 87Egilsstaðir 105 Krauma 70Laugar 80

Staðarskáli 63Stokksnes 46-7Strandir Coast 116Sturluson, Snorri 70Stykkishólmur 68Stöng 30Sundhöllin 80sustainable travel 90, 130Svartifoss 38

Ttelephone services 130-1tipping 128Tjörnin 75tourist information 131transport 13, 124, 133, see

also drivingtrekking, see hiking000 Map pages

138138

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Tröllaskagi Peninsula 14, 56, 62

UUllarselið 67Upper Borgarbyggð 70

VVarmahlíð 61-2, 113Vatnajökull National Park 9,

38, 40Vatnsnes Peninsula 63Vestmannaeyjar 14, 32Vík 33, 99-100Víkin Maritime Museum 71Vindbelgjarfjall 107visas 131Víti 60, 106Viðey 88Viðgelmir 70volcanoes & craters

Askja 60Heimaey 32Hekla 30Hverfjall 58Hvolsvöllur 30-1Krafla 56

Lakagígar 40Leirhnjúkur 56Möðrudalur 106Skútustaðagígar 59Snæfellsjökull National

Park 68Vestmannaeyjar

Islands 32Víti 60, 106

Wwalking, see hikingwaterfalls

Dettifoss 55-6Flögufoss 50Glymur 68-9Goðafoss 59-60Gullfoss 28Háifoss 30Hengifoss 51Hjálparfoss 30Hraunfossar 70Skógafoss 31Svartifoss 38Systrafoss 37Öxarárfoss 27

weather 12

websites 11, 13, 120, 128weights 128West Iceland 64-71, 66-7Westfjords 116whale meat 90whale watching 21

Húsavík 58Reykjavík 71, 81

Whales of Iceland 71, 79white-water rafting 62wi-fi 127wildlife 21, see also

individual animals

ÞÞingvellir 26-7, 96-7Þjórsá river 30Þjórsárdalur 30Þjórsárstofa 30Þórbergssetur 41Þórsmörk 14, 29Þórðarson, Þórbergur 41

ÖÖndverðarnes 68Öskjuvatn 60

139139

IND

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OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9831st edition – May 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 654 5© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Andy Symington Andy has written or worked on over a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and nonfiction writing projects. Andy, from Australia, moved to Northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local football side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.

Alexis Averbuck Alexis Averbuck was born in Oakland, CA, and earned a degree at Harvard University. She has travelled and lived all over the world, from Sri Lanka and India to Mexico, Europe and Antarctica. In more recent years she’s been living in Hydra, Greece, and exploring her adopted homeland; travelling to France to sample oysters in Brittany and careen through hill-top villages in Provence; and adventuring along Iceland’s surreal lava fields, sparkling fjords and glacier tongues. A travel writer for over two decades, Alexis has lived in Antarctica for a year, crossed the Pacific by sailboat and written books on her journeys through Asia, Europe and the Americas. She also appears in videos and on television promoting travel and adventure, and is a painter – visit www.alexisaverbuck.com.

Carolyn Bain A travel writer and editor for 16 years, Carolyn has lived, worked and studied in various corners of the globe, including London, Denmark, St Petersburg and Nantucket. She is regularly drawn north from her base in Melbourne, Australia, to cover diverse destinations for Lonely Planet, from dusty outback Australia to the luminous Greek islands, by way of Maine’s lobster shacks and Slovenia’s alpine lakes. The Nordic region stakes a large claim to her heart, with repeated visits to Iceland and Denmark for work and pleasure. Carolyn writes about travel and food for a range of publishers; see carolynbain.com.au for more.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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