iii. experimental procedure -...
TRANSCRIPT
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III. EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURE Experimental procedure pertaining to the study “Fabrication and Enhancement of Plasma Treated Cotton, Tencel Cotton and Modal Cotton with Anti-bacterial and Mosquito Repellent Finish” are discussed
under the following headings and expressed in Figure – 1.
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FIGURE – 1 EXPERIMENTAL DESIGN
PHASE – III
Anti-bacterial Evaluation
Mosquito Repellent Evaluation
Physical, Mechanical Comfort and Absorbent Properties
Agar Diffusion Parallel Streak Test (AATCC 147-2004, AATCC 100-2004)
Excito Chamber Method
(Product Development)
Wear Study
Evaluation
Bacterial Reduction Evaluation
PHASE – II Pilot Study
Selection of Herbs and Optimization of the Parameters
Selection of Herbs
Phytochemical Analysis
Functional Finishes
Anti-bacterial Finish
Mosquito Repellent Finish
Optimization Parameters
Application of Finishing Techniques
FT-IR
PHASE – I Survey
Consumer and Market
Selection of Yarn (Cotton, Tencel Cotton and Modal Cotton)
Selection of Fabric Formation (100 per cent Cotton, 50/50 Tencel Cotton, 50/50 Modal Cotton)
Pre-treatments (Scouring and Bleaching)
Application of Value Added Finish (Plasma Application)
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Phase – I
The phase – I consisted of two surveys (market and consumer),
selection of yarn, selection of fabric formation, pre-treatments and application
of value added finish was done, the details are discussed below.
3.1 Conduct of Survey
The survey can be useful to collect data on phenomena that cannot be
directly observed. A questionnaire is a research instrument consisting of a
series of questions and other prompts for the purpose of gathering information
from respondents (Gupta, 2008). Hence the investigator prepared the
questionnaire to collect information from the market and the consumer
regarding the awareness, preference, rating and recommendation of
eco-friendly textile products. The survey may focus on factual information
about individuals or it might aim to collect the requirements of the consumer.
A special purpose survey is that by which data obtained are useful in
analyzing a particular problem only (Gupta, 2008).
3.1.1 Selection of Area and Sample
A sample may be defined as a selected number of units from a
population to represent it. The sample was used to make inference about a
population (Anderson et al., 2012). Sampling saves on cost and time
(Parasuraman et al., 2009). By studying the sample it was hoped to draw valid
conclusion about the larger grouping using simple random sampling method.
And this method was selected for this study. For market survey fifty textile
shops were selected in and around Coimbatore city and for the consumer
survey fifty adolescent girls were selected who were using healthcare
products. The elicited information was used for selection of fabrics and
finishes for this study.
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3.1.2 Selection of the Tool
The various methods of data gathering involved the use of appropriate
recording forms. These are called tools or instruments of data collection.
A research tool plays a major role in any worthwhile research as it is the sole
factor in determining the sound data and in arriving at a perfect conclusion
about the problem or study in hand, which ultimately helps in providing
suitable remedial measures to the problem concerned. Interview method was
selected for gathering information regarding the study.
3.1.3 Conduct of Surveys
For this study, two types of surveys were conducted namely, Market
and Consumer Survey.
3.1.3.1 Market Survey
A market survey is an objective and systematic collection, recording,
analysis and interpretation of data about existing or potential markets for a
product and service. Hence, the market survey was carried out in fifty textile
shops to know about the demand for the existing textile products. The
questionnaire was framed with the following requirements such as different
types of yarn, fabric formation, finishing, its durabilities, cost performance,
types of finishes, hazardous of synthetic finishes, disposable and degradable
qualities of the textile material available. The prepared interview schedule was
used to conduct the survey (Appendix –XXX).
3.1.3.2 Consumer Survey
Consumer surveys can provide information on when, where, why, how
and for which attitudes affect shopping habits. The survey also invites
consumers to share their perspectives regarding the current and future
economic health of business district. For this study, the consumer survey was
conducted from the adolescent 100 girls to gather information regarding the
special finishes like herbal anti-bacterial and mosquito repellent finishes. The
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schedule was framed to get information about the wearers need and their
requirements for healthcare textile products (Appendix – XX and XX). Then
the elicited information about existing products was utilized for further study.
We have removed the section (Pre-Testing of interview schedule) as this
section was not necessary because we have conducted a thorough survey of
consumer, covering major area of Coimbatore city involving 100 adolescent
girls. Detailed information on the region and information involving the basis for
the selection of the region in Coimbatore city and the choice of consumer
have been provided in chapter-III.
3.1.4 Final Conduct of Survey
The interview schedule is the data collection instruments for the
conduct of interviews. It can be highly structured or unstructured depending
on the nature of the interviews (Hall, 2004). Hence, the investigator planned to
conduct a face to face interview to collect data from the selected shops and
adolescent girls regarding health care product.
3.1.5 Consolidation and Analysis of Data
The next step in the process of research after the collection of data is
the organization, analysis and interpretation of data and formulation of
conclusions and generalizations get a meaningful picture out of the
information collected. This is a list of items of information to be obtained from
documents, records and other materials. In order to secure measurable data,
the items included in the schedule are limited to those that can be uniformly
secured from the large number of case histories or other records which will be
consolidated and analyzed systematically from the data. The consolidated
data shows that the consumer requirements of the textile related aspects such
as healthcare products and special finishes from the shops and consumers
fondness of textile products which are environmentally safe finish, cost
effective, good mosquito repellent, and non toxic properties. Hence, the
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investigator considered to finish with herbal extracts and convert into
healthcare textile products.
Justification of the selection of sample number for market and consumer survey Market survey
The fifty shops chosen represented a reasonable broad spectrum of
consumers in different regions of Coimbatore city. As our department in
Avinashilingam Institute for Home Science and Higher Education for Women
specializes in home science, through prior surveys and research carried out
by colleagues over a number of years, we found that a survey of about fifty
shops is a reasonable representation for market research and analysis. In
addition, these shops represented a broad regional base in the Coimbatore
city, such as Gandhipuram, Town Hall, Saibaba Colony and R.S Puram.
Customers in these areas vary in their social, economical and educational
backgrounds. These reasons justify our choosing of fifty shops in different
areas in Coimbatore for the market survey.
Consumer Survey
We decided to carryout survey of 100 adolescent girls based on our
earlier activities carried in our department over few decades. Our department
specializes in home economics and consumer science and has carried out
many such projects. Results and understanding from such studies showed
that the acceptability of women’s healthcare products is basically through
penetration into the segment of the population that is dominated by college
going adolescent girls. Although it is worthy to have a large population for
such survey, our earlier research activities in our department have shown that
decent size of the population could be 100 provided the survey is
geographically distribution and spread. As is evident from our study, our
survey was reasonably distributed in the city of Coimbatore involving
Gandhipuram, Town Hall, Saibaba Colony and R.S Puram.
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3.2 Selection of Yarn
Based on the finding of the survey cotton, tencel and modal were
selected for the study.
Cotton has the excellent properties such as absorbency,
biodegradable, breathable, drape, easily sterilized, high wet-strength,
insulating properties, non-allergic, renewable resource, softness and water
retaining capacity (Gopalakrishnan and Aravindan, 2005). The cotton fabric
has good property of withstanding severe treatment, especially during dyeing
and finishing (Barker and Midgley, 2007).
The selected yarns such as cotton (40 Ne), tencel (40 Ne) and modal
(40 Ne) were procured from the local yarn merchants. The yarn was
converted into plain-woven fabric. Twenty metres of cotton, tencel cotton and
modal cotton were produced from the power loom (Appendix – IV).
Tencel is made with wood pulp cellulose from the eucalyptus tree. It is
extremely absorbent irritation free, naturally prevents the growth of bacteria,
and is 100% biodegradable (Storeg, 2006). Modal is a processed bio-based
textile made from reconstituted cellulose from beech trees and is soft, smooth
and breathes well, cool to touch and high absorbent, like cotton. It drapes well
and keeps its shape, even when it was wet. One of the advantages of modal
over cotton is resistant to shrinkage. Modal is about 50% more hygroscopic
per unit volume than cotton (Mishra, 2003) (Plates – 1a and 1b).
The use of blends of fabrics has tremendously increased even in India.
The price structure and multi fibre policy of Government have increased the use
of cellulosic mixed fabrics. Hence due to the above properties and according to
the consumer requirements the following yarn was selected. Cotton, Tencel
cotton and modal yarns were used for the study.
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3.3 Fabric Formation
The most widely used methods of making fabrics are always weaving
(Kathleen et al., 2007). The fabric forming process contributes to the fabric’s
appearance and texture, performance and cost. In woven fabrics generally
two or more sets of yarns are interlaced at right angles to each other. Many
different interlacing patterns give interest to the fabric (Kadoph et al., 2002).
Similarly cotton yarn runs in the warp directions whereas modal runs in
the weft directions for modal cotton fabric (Plate – 1c).
3.4 Pre-treatment of Fabrics
Pre-treatments are essential for successful finishing. It is applied
before the final finishes are given because it contains impurities
(Garg et al., 2005). Pre-treatment improves the usability of fabrics and
therefore improves the quality. It is very essential before application of special
finishes.
The term ‘pre-treatment’ summarizes all types of basic finishes such as
desizing, scouring, mercerizing and bleaching on fibre, yarn and fabric
(Smith, 2006). The aim of the preparation process is improving the quality by
removing impurities and foreign matter thoroughly and uniformly from the
fabric (Anthappan et al., 2006). For this study scouring and bleaching process
was done on 100% cotton, 50 : 50% Tencel cotton and 50 : 50 modal cotton.
Twenty meters of cotton, tencel cotton and modal cotton fabrics were
subjected to scouring and bleaching process.
a. Cotton
c. Moda
SE
n Yarn
al Yarn
PLATE
ELECTION
E – 1 OF YARN
d.
b. Tence
. Weaving
el Yarn
Machine
45
46
3.4.1 Scouring
Scouring is an important operation by which natural impurities such as
greases, waxes, fats, and acquired impurities from the fabric are removed
(NIIR Board, 2004). The following are the recipe for scouring.
Weight of the fabric - 1000 grams
Water - 10 liters
Sodium carbonate - 20 grams
Sodium hydroxide - 30 grams
Wetting agent
( Monopal soap) - 10 drops
Temperature - 80°C
Time - 60 minutes
The selected woven fabrics (cotton, Tencel cotton, Modal cotton) were
scoured in a bath contained ten litres of water, 20 grams of sodium carbonate
and 30 grams of sodium hydroxide and a few drops of wetting agent or
Monopal soap along with the fabric and were boiled for one hour. Then the
fabric was rinsed thoroughly in running water and dried in the shade. The
process was followed for modal cotton and Tencel cotton fabrics in the same
manner.
3.4.2 Bleaching
Bleaching is to impart perfect whiteness to the fabric by removing the
natural coloring matter from the fabric (Patel et al., 2006). In one word, to
bleach it as well as to eliminate any accessory impurities by which they may
become contained and more or less solid, during such operations as spinning
and weaving (Tailfer, 2008). Hence the following recipe was adapted for
scouring and bleaching of selected cotton, modal cotton and Tencel cotton
fabrics.
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Recipe for Bleaching
Weight of the fabric - 1000 grams
Distilled water - 10 liters
Sodium bicarbonate - 20 grams
Hydrogen peroxide - 20 grams
Wetting agent - 10 drops
Temperature - 80°C
Time - 60 minutes
The selected fabric was bleached in a bath contained ten litres of
distilled water, 30 grams of sodium bicarbonate and 20 grams of hydrogen
peroxide along with the fabric boiled for one hour. The fabric then was taken
and rinsed thoroughly in running water and dried in the shade. The process
was followed for cotton, modal cotton and Tencel cotton fabrics.
3.5 Plasma Treatment
The plasma technology can enhance the function of the textile and
garment such as crease resistance, UV protection and offer hydrophillic or
hydrophobic properties including anti-bacterial activity, stain resistance with
excellent hand feel, rapid drying and breathability features (Vohrer, 2009).
According to Sujatha (2010) plasma treatment is an alternative to wet
chemical fabric treatment and pretreatment process which tend to alter fabric
mechanical properties and are environmentally hazardous. Hence the
investigator decided to apply plasma on selected fabrics.
3.5.1 Selection of Gas
Plasma is an ionized gas with equal density of positive and negative
charges which exists over an extremely wide range of temperature and
pressure. The plasma gas particles etch on the fabric surface in nano scale so
as to modify the functional properties of the fabric (Muguntharajan, 2009).
Plasma treatment depends on the choice of working gas and plasma density
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and energy. Air, oxygen, argon, fluorine, helium, carbon dioxide or their
mixtures can be used as plasma medium. The process result is affected by
the type of the gas used (Pastore and Kiekens, 2001).
Oxygen plasma shows a fast etching rate by exhibiting a progressively
pilled and etched pattern only after 10 minutes of accumulated exposure
whereas argon plasma treatment shows a relatively slower etching rate and
the etched pattern appears after almost 40 minutes of accumulated exposure.
Oxygen plasma results in shrinkage causing the corncob structure
perpendicular to the fibre axis. Oxygen plasma causes more severe effects
with fire increased the depth as well as the size of the microspores etched by
the plasma increase. The dominant weight loss during plasma treatment is
mainly due to surface etching of the fibre of the fabric surface (McCord, 2003).
Hence the investigator selected oxygen gas for plasma application in the
selected cellulosic fabrics. Five meters of cotton, tencel cotton and modal
cotton fabrics were used for plasma treatment.
3.5.2 Parameters of Plasma Application Plasma Reactor
The plasma reactor supplied by M/s HydoPneoVac, Bangalore with the
chamber dimensions of 40 cm x 40 cm x 48 cm was used in the decision
process (Figure – 2 and Plate – 2). Provisions are given to treat the fabric
samples with the dimensions of 20 cm x 20 cm, using the fabric holder placed
between the parallel plates of the capacitor. The reactor is fabricated with
provisions for the inlet of gases, vacuum pump fitted to create ambient
atmosphere for treatment. The distance between the plates, voltage and
pressure applied in the reactor were optimized based on the weight loss
obtained in the scoured samples (control), which are free from any added
impurities or polymeric coating over the surface of the fibres.
SCHEMATIC D
P
FIGURE
IAGRAM O
PLATEPLASMA CH
E - 2 OF PLASMA
E – 2 HAMBER
A REACTOOR
49
50
3.5.3 Application Method
Optimization of various process conditions of the plasma reactor was
carried out using a Gray cotton fabric and weight loss on desizing (removal of
starch from gray fabric) was considered as the response variable.
The distance between the capacitor plates of the plasma reactor
decides the mean distance between the fabric and the ionized particles
present in the reactor. Higher the distance lower the capacitance value and
hence lower would be the plasma efficiency. As the distance between the
plates increased from 3.0 to 3.8 cm (while keeping 5 minutes, 600 V and
0.1 bars), the weight loss of the control samples decreased gradually from
4.82 to 4.00%, confirming the effect of the distance on capacitance and the
charged particles produced in the reactor. However, 3.2 cm was selected for
decision of the samples since at the lowest level, difficulties were observed in
placing the samples inside the reactor. The weight loss is obviously due to the
removal of the natural impurities present in the fabric, by converting them into
the soluble components (Nalankilli et al., 2008).
The capacity of a parallel plate capacitor is inversely related to the
applied voltage, and for the plasma produced inside the reactor also. As the
voltage was doubled from 600 V to 1200 V (while keeping the sample for
5 minutes, plate distance 3.0 cm and pressure 0.1 bar) the weight loss of the
control sample decreased by 40% from 6.61 to 3.91% and hence 600 V was
maintained for desizing of cotton samples.
The pressure applied inside the plasma reactor must be matched to
the characteristic structure of the textile material to be plasma treated (Abbot
and Robinso, 1977). In the low pressure regions, the mean free path in the
gas phase exceeds the typical distance in textile material and the very low
pressure causes a relatively low radical concentration per unit volume. In the
medium and high pressure ranges, the mean free path in the gas phase is
much lower than textile distances. Most of the collisions happen with other
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gas particles and reduce the lifetime of the radicals so that the particles do not
reach the reaction sites inside the voluminous fabric. As the pressure
decreased inside the chamber from 0.2 to 0.01 bars, while keeping the
sample for 5 minutes, plate distance 3.0 cm and 600 V the efficiency of the
plasma treatment increased by 33%, in terms of weight loss from 4.90 to
7.33%, confirming the theory postulated in the earlier reports.
TABLE – III DETAILS ABOUT THE PARAMETERS OF PLASMA APPLICATION
S.No. Criteria Parameters
1. Gas Oxygen
2. Inter-electrode spacing 3.5 cm
3. Plasma current 2.1 MA
4. Plasma power 600 W
5. Exposure time 2 minutes
6. Pressure 1.5 x 10-2 bar
From the Table – IV, it is clear that the plasma application was done
using oxygen with inter-electrode spacing of 3.5 cm. The plasma current and
power used were 2.1 mA and 600 W respectively. The exposure time was
2 minutes with pressure of 1.5 x 10-1 mbar. Thus the above parameters were
used in this study. After plasma treatment the fabrics underwent finishing
process on 5 metres of cotton, tencel cotton and modal cotton material.
Phase – II
The phase – II consisted of pilot study, selection of herbs and
optimization of the parameters, phytochemical analysis, selection of functional
finishes, anti-bacterial finish, mosquito repellent finish, optimization
parameters and finishing technique.
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3.6 Pilot Study
A pilot study was conducted with six different medicinal plant namely
Turmeric (Curcuma longa), Lemon (Citrus limon), Aloe vera (Barbados aloe),
Eucalyptus oil (Eucalyptus globulus), Guava leaves (Psidium guajava), Prickly
chaff flower (Achyranthes aspera) to select the best herbs. These six plants
were selected after a thorough study from the related literature. From the
above plants two of the plants Psidium guajava and Achyranthes aspera has
superior anti-bacterial property and Phyllanthus niruri, Vetiveria zizanioides
had more mosquito repellent property. Hence the above said four herbs were
selected for this study.
3.7 Selection of Finishes
From the survey the consumers' requirements such as special finishes
like anti-bacterial and mosquito repellent herbal finishes on the needed
garments. Hence mosquito repellent and anti-bacterial finishes were selected
for this study.
3.8 Selection of Herbs
A review of literature on the anti-microbial activity of plants and plant
derived products revealed that may significant contributions have been made
on the bioactivities of medicinal plants. Herbal spices are important sources of
anti-bacterial and mosquito repellent properties. Therefore based on the
literature survey the following herbs were selected such as guava leaves
(Psidium guajava), prickly chaff flower (Achyranthes aspera), keelanelli
(Phyllanthus niruri) and vetiver roots (Vetiveria zizanioides) from the pilot and
literature survey.
3.8.1 Collection and Storage of Natural Herbs
The collected leaves were dried under shade. After drying, the grinding
was carried out to break down the leaves into a fine powder
(Thilagavathi et al., 2007). The powdered guava leaves (Psidium guajava),
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prickly chaff flower (Achyranthes aspera), keelanelli (Phyllanthus niruri) and
Vetiver root (Vetiveria zizanioides) were stored in air tight container separately
(Plates – 3a to 3h).
3.9 Selection of Extraction Procedure
Extraction refers to the separating of a desired material by physical or
chemical means with the aid of a solvent. The extraction of a selected natural
source can be carried out by various methods like aqueous, alkaline, acidic or
alcoholic methods. In case of alkaline and acidic extractions, solutions of any
alkali or acids used. In alcoholic extraction, alcohols like ethanol or methanol
are extensively used for the extraction process. Alcoholic extraction using
ethanol is more effective to extract the active ingredients of the natural
sources. Hence, the herbal powder was subjected to alcoholic extraction
(Plates – 4a to 4c).
3.9.1 Solvent Extraction of Herbs
Extraction was carried out by dissolving 6 grams of the herbal powders
of guava leaf (Psidium guajava), prickly chaff flower (Achyranthes aspera),
keelanelli (Phyllanthus niruri) and vetiver root (Vetiveria zizanioides) in 100 ml
consisting of 80% ethanol and distilled water. The containers were closed and
kept for overnight under shaking condition for proper dissolving of the
compounds into solvent. Then the extract was filtered using Whatman no. 1
filter paper, the filtrate was collected and evaporated at room temperature.
Recipe for Herbal Extraction
Powder : 6 gm
Ethanol : 100 ml consist of 80% ethanol and
balance distilled water
Time : 24 hours
Temperature : Room temperature
Weight of the fabric : 1000 gms
a. Guava
c. Vetiver
e. G
g.
a Leaves (P
Roots (Vet
Guava Lea
Vetiver Ro
SE
Pisidium gu
tiveria zizan
ave Powder
oot Powder
PLATE
LECTION O
uajava)
nioides)
r
r
E – 3 OF HERBS
b. (Achy
d. Keela
f. Prick
h
S
Prickly Chayranthes a
anelli (Phyl
kly Chaff F
. Keelanell
aff Flower aspera Linn
yllanthus ni
lower Pow
i Powder
54
n.)
iruri)
wder
EX
a. and b.
PLATEXTRACTION
Herbal Ext
c. Citric
E – 4 N METHOD
traction So
Acid
olution
55
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3.10 Phytochemical Analysis
The portion of the dry extract was subjected to the phytochemical
screening (Trease,and Evans,(1985) and Harbourne,(1998). Phytochemical
screening was performed to test alkaloids, phenols, flavonoids, triterpenoids
and tannins.
3.10.1 Phytochemical Screening of the Herbal Extract
The selected herbal extracts were tested for the presence of some
active chemical compounds such as alkaloides, flavanoids, phenolics,
tannins, saponins and terpenoids. The analysis was conducted as per the
methods (Khandewal, 2002).
3.10.1.a. Identification of Alkaloids
To 5 grams of the each plant sample added 50 ml of 5% HCl and
heated in a boiling water bath for one hour and filtered separately. To the
filtrate added 5 ml of dilute ammonia and 5 ml of chloroform. The ethanol
layer was taken for the following tests.
3.10.1.b. Dragendroffs Test
To one ml of the ethanol layer 1 ml of Dragendroff’s reagent was
added. Formation of orange precipitate indicated the presence of alkaloids.
3.10.1.c. Wagner’s Test
One ml of the ethanol layer was treated with few ml of Wagner’s
reagent. Formation of reddish brown precipitate indicated the presence of
alkaloids.
3.10.1.d. Identification of Flavanoids
The following tests were carried out to assess the presence of
flavanoids in the selected herbs.
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3.10.1.e. Shinoda Tests
To 5 grams of the each herbal extracts added 50 ml of ethanol and
heated in a boiling water bath. For ethanolic extract, 8-9 drops of
concentrated HCl and some magnesium fillings were added. After 10-15
minutes at room temperature red colour formation indicated the presence of
flavanoids.
3.10.1.f. Decolorization Test
Each herbal extract was reduced to dryness in the boiling water bath
separately. The residue was treated with dilute NaOH followed by addition of
dilute HCl. Yellow solution with NaOH which turns colourless with dilute HCl
indicated the presence of flavanoids.
3.10.1.g. Ammonia Test
Filter paper strips were dipped in the ethanolic extract and
ammoniated. The filter paper changed its colour to yellow indicated the
presence of flavonoids. Added 10 ml of concentrated H2SO4 to the above
yellow coloured filter paper. Disappearance of the yellow colour confirmed the
presence of flavanoids.
3.10.1.h. Identification of Terpenoids
To 0.5 grams of the herbal extracts add 2 ml of chloroform. The
chloroform extracts added 5 ml of concentrated H2SO4 along the sides of the
test tube. Reddish brown colouration in the interphase indicated the presence
of terpenoids.
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TABLE – IV PHYTOCHEMICAL TEST SCREENING
S.No. Plant
extract (Ethanol)
Code
Alkaloids Flavanoids Terpenoids
Dragendorff test
Wagner’s test
H2SO4 test
NaOH test
Shinoda test
Liebermann – Burchard
test
1. Psidium gujava leaves
PG + - - + - -
2. Achyranthes aspera leaves
AA + - - - - -
3. Phyllanthus niruri leaves
PN + - - + - + (Sterol)- Terpenoid
4. Vetiveria zizanioides root
VZ + - + + - -
(+) Presence (-) Absence
The presence of different phytochemical components in the leaves of
guava, prickly chaff flower, keelanelli and vetiver root extracts were identified
using standard phytochemical screening test. From the Table – IV, it was
understood that different phytochemicals were evident in the selected herbal
powders. The major components present in the selected herbal extracts were
alkaloids, steriods and flavanoids. These components have been found to
possess anti-bacterial and anti-viral activity.
3.10.2 Spectroscopic Study – FTIR Analysis
The FTIR spectral analysis was carried out to identify the functional
groups present in Pisidium gujava, Acharanthus aspera Linn., Vetiveria
zizanioides and Phyllanthus niruri.
Spectra were collected on a bench FTS 3000 MX spectrometer
(Varian Instruments, Randolph, MA) equipped with KBr beam splitter.
Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) was an analytical tool to
59
identify the nature of chemicals present in the herbal powder. It also helps to
know to what extent the molecules of the finishing chemicals are attached
with fibre molecules of the specimen. The samples were analyzed for their
variations in chemical groups using FTIR spectroscopy. The same test was
carried out by Usha et al. (2010). Infrared spectroscopy was used to identify
and quantitatively analyze chemical compounds, mixtures, extent of reaction,
and molecular structure. Different chemical compounds absorb infrared
radiation at frequencies corresponding to their own molecular vibration
frequencies. According to Kale and Balaskar (2010), Infrared (IR)
spectroscopy is a chemical analysis technique which measures the absorption
of different IR frequencies by a sample positioned in the path of an IR beam.
The main goal of the IR spectroscopic analysis was to determine the chemical
functional groups in the sample.
3.11 Optimization Procedure
After extraction of herbs the optimization was done to get accurate
values by doing many combination and composition of herbs. The optimized
parameters were selected for time, temperature and other criteria’s before
finishing on the fabric for anti-bacterial and mosquito repellent activity.
3.11.1 Optimization Parameters for Finishing
The three fabric samples, cotton, Tencel cotton and modal cotton were
padded with different concentrations, temperature and time to find out the
optimized parameters for time 3, 5, 10 minutes to finish the herbal sources on
the three fabrics. For temperature 40°C, 50°C, 60°C and 80°C were set for
treating the fabric for effective finishing.
The concentration was considered as an important aspect in curing the
fabric during the finishing process. To optimize the concentration 4, 6, 8 and
10 grams of herbal powder was dissolved in 100 ml of 80% ethanol and
distilled water. Citric acid was considered as an important aspect in binding
the herbs on the fabric in the finishing process. Thilagavathi and Kannian
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(2008) suggested that citric acid gives good result as a mordant. Hence the
investigator was selected citric acid as a binder for optimizing the
concentration of binder, 6, 7, 8, 9% of citric acid was mixed with herbal extract
and finished on the selected fabrics. The bacteria grow at neutral pH.
However the growth of bacteria is hindered in acidic or alkaline pH. After a
thorough investigation the optimized parameters such as time, temperature,
concentration, binder concentration and pH were 15 minutes, 80°C, 6 g, 9%
and pH 4-5 respectively. This optimized parameter were used for this study is
given in Table – V.
TABLE – V
OPTIMIZED PARAMETERS
S.No. Criteria Pilot study Selected parameters
1. Herbal solution
4, 6, 8 and 10 g / 100 ml of 80% of ethanol
6 g / 100 ml of 80% of ethanol
2. Citric acid 6, 7, 8 and 9% 9%
3. Time 15 minutes 15 minutes
4. Temperature 80°C 80°C
5. pH 4-8 4.5
3.11.2 Method of Finishing
There are basically three types of method viz., (i) pad application,
(ii) exhaust application and (iii) spray method (Gauraw, 2013). Among these
methods pad-dry cure method gives best result and the finishing agent
impregnated thoroughly. Hence pad-dry-cure method is selected for the study.
3.11.3 Padding Mangle Method
Natural finishing has become a part of human life since the time
immemorial. India has a rich cultural heritage and the tradition of using
finishes obtained from natural sources. There is an increasing realization in
the textile industry as well as among the textile consumers to develop and
61
demand eco-friendly methods of finishing textiles (Pardeshi and
Manjrekar, 2003). The durability of the finishing can be enhanced when the
herbal extracts were applied to the fabric directly by pad-dry-cure method
(Kumar, 2007).
Application of finishes in padding mangle is more convenient and many
of the problems related to exhaust techniques can be avoided primarily in
padding stage. In padding technique, the fabric was passed through two iron
rollers revolving at different speeds in the opposite direction (Sampath, 2003).
The bleached and plasma treated fabric was finished with optimized
parameters (Saini, 2004). The extracted solution was poured inside the
padding mangle and the fabric was passed inside the machine for 30 minutes.
The fabric cured inside the dry oven for 15 minutes at 80°C for the good
penetration of the finishing agents. Then the fabric was removed from the
curing chamber and the fabric was washed thoroughly and dried in shade.
TABLE FABRIC SAMPLE PREPARATION FOR FINISHING USING PADDING MANGLE
S.No. Particulars Parameters
1. Finishing solution Material liquor ratio (MLR) 1 : 20
2. Binder solution 9 : 1
3. Curing temperature 80°C – 100°C
4. Curing time 2 minutes
For this study, the above described padding mangle was selected. The
fabric was immersed in the prepared anti-bacterial and mosquito repellent
solution in the ratio of 1 : 20 of the material liquor ratio of three times with the
binder in the ratio of 9 : 1 for the effective penetration into the fabric. Then the
fabric was passed through the padding mangle (Plate – 5) between the rollers
for uniform application of the solution. The fabric is dried in the open air under
the shade at room temperature and cured at 80°C – 100°C for two minutes for
cotton, modal cotton and tencel cotton for permanent impregnation.
PADD
PLATEING MANG
E – 5 GLE MACHIINE
62
63
Two groups of fabric samples were used in this study, the first group of
samples was plasma treated fabrics (100% cotton, (50 : 50) Tencel : cotton,
(50 : 50) modal : cotton) was finished with guava extract and prickly chaff
flower extract separate bath. In the second group of samples, untreated
(plasma) fabrics (100% cotton, (50 : 50) Tencel : cotton, (50 : 50) modal :
cotton) were finished with similar guava extracts and prickly chaff flower
extracts separately for anti-bacterial activity. For mosquito repellant finish the
keelanelli and vetiver extracts were finished separately with the same
parameters in two different bath. All the samples were padded with 8% citric
acid in a padding mangle at different pressure condition and rpm with 100%
wet pickup followed by drying and curing at 160°C for 5 minutes. The above
finishes were done on cotton, tencel cotton and modal cotton fabrics.
Phase – III
The phase – III is consisted of evaluation and comparison of properties
of unfinished, finished and finished on plasma treated samples. The
evaluation was done to find out the physical, mechanical, comfort and
absorbency properties. The changes occurred during finishes and
composition with unfinished and plasma treated samples.
3.12 Evaluation of Fabrics
Textile testing as a whole refers to the vigorous testing done on textile
materials which may be inside the laboratory as well as in its natural setting,
or in the day-to-day uses, using various testing equipments (Jewel, 2005).
It plays a crucial role in gauging product quality, ensuring regulatory
compliance and assessing the performance of textile materials.
3.12.1 Physical Properties
The finished fabrics were evaluated for physical properties namely
weight, thickness and count.
64
3.12.1.a. Fabric Weight – ASTM D 3776-96
Fabric weight is the relative weight of the fabric and expressed as the
weight of a particular size piece, in grams per square meter or ounces per
square yard. The investigator cuts the samples from unfinished, finished and
plasma treated finished fabrics by using GSM Die Cutter (Plates – 6a and 6b)
and weighed round the fabric using a digital weighing balance. Five readings
were noted for each and the individual mean was calculated.
Grams per square meter (GSM) = square of Area
(g)fabric the of Weightx square metre
Square meter = 100 cm x 100 cm = 10000 cm2
Area of square = Length x Breadth square units.
The same procedure was followed to find out the fabric weight of
unfinished, finished and finished with plasma samples used in the present
study. Fabric weights were carefully recorded and using the above formula.
The mean difference will be calculated.
3.12.1.b. Fabric Thickness – ASTM D 3883-2004
Thickness is defined as the distance between the upper and lower
surface of the material measured under a standard pressure using the
thickness gauge. The thickness of a fabric is one of its basic properties, giving
information on its warmth, heaviness or stiffness in use. Thickness
measurements are rarely used as they are very sensitive to the pressure used
in the measurement. Fabric weight per unit is used commercially as an
indicator of thickness (Basu and Chellamani, 2006).
The Fabric Thickness Tester (Plate – 6c) a handy instrument was used
to find out the thickness of the sample. The fabric is kept between two plane
parallel places and a known arbitrary pressure is applied between the plates
and maintained. Then the distance between the plates is noted from the dial
gauge. Ten readings were taken at random, and the mean was calculated to
65
find out the thickness of the original, finished and plasma treated finished
fabrics. This was repeated for 10 times to find out the accurate value.
3.12.1.c. Fabric Count – ASTM D 1059-01
The determination of fabric count measures the number of warp yarns
per inch and number of weft yarns per inch (Angappan and
Gopalakrishnan, 2002). The fabric count is the number of warp and weft yarns
per unit distance. The fabric is kept without tension and is free from folds and
wrinkles. The determination of the number of threads per inch may be made
by counting glass (pick glass). The counting glass is a small magnifying glass
on a stand over a square exactly one inch way. The number of threads in the
field directly gives the number of threads per inch. This is the method
generally used for fabric count. The number of ends and picks per inch were
counted in five different places and recorded for the unfinished, finished and
plasma treated finished samples. This was repeated for 10 times to find out
the exact value from average.
The fabric count is the number of warp yarn per inch and the number of
weft yarn per inch. In the woven fabric, the warp yarns are referred to as ends
and weft yarns as picks. Therefore, a fabric is described in terms of “ends and
picks”. Pick glass / magnifying glass (Plate – 6d) was used to find out the
fabric count of the samples. The glass was placed randomly at different
places and the number of repeats was found by analyzing the weave. Five
readings were taken and recorded for all the samples to find out whether
there was any shrinkage or elongation during the finishing treatment for 10
times to find out the accurate answer.
3.12.2. Mechanical Properties
Mechanical properties of the finished fabrics were evaluated by
strength, elongation and abrasion resistance method.
66
3.12.2.a. Fabric Tensile Strength – ASTM D 5034
The maximum tensile stress required to rupture a fabric is expressed in
kilogram. The Eureka cloth tensile strength tester was used to measure the
strength and elongation. The fabric was cut into 30 cm x 7.5 cm using
template and placed in between the clamps. The load was applied to the
sample. When the sample was torn, the movement of the lower clamp was
reversed. The strength in kilogram was noted from the dial. Ten readings
were taken for concordance (ASTM TM 5035-03, 2005) (Plate – 6e).
3.12.2.b. Fabric Elongation – ASTM D 5034
Elongation is the increase in length of a specimen during a tension test,
expressed in units of length of the fabric when loaded. The Eureka model
tensile strength tester was used for the study. The rate of traverse and
capacity of the machine was 48 cm per minute and 90 kg respectively. The
gauge length was kept at 25 cm. The dial of the machine was calibrated in
pounds and kilograms.
Ten samples from each of the fabrics with a minimum length of
33.02 cm and a width of 3.81 cm were cut from the warp and weft directions
separately. Each sample was ravelled out to 2.54 cm width and 30.48 cm
length of yarns of the two sides. Each sample was clamped firmly between
the two jaws. Care was taken to ensure that the sample was perpendicular to
the load. The load was applied to the sample which was broken. The dial
reading of elongation in centimeters was noted. Ten readings were noted for
each sample and the mean value was calculated (ASTM TM 5035-03, 2005)
for all three groups of fabrics to find out the reaction of finishes.
3.12.2.c. Fabric Abrasion Resistance – ASTM D 4158
Abrasion is one aspect of wear and is rubbing away of the component
fibres and yarns of the fabric. Abrasion may be classified as plane or flat
67
abrasion, edge abrasion or flex abrasion (Jewel, 2005). Abrasion is the
wearing a way of any part of a material by rubbing against another surface.
The Martindale Abrasion Tester (Plate – 6f) is a useful instrument for
determining the resistance to abrasion of all clothes. The severity of the
abrasion varies with the nature of the radiation. Five samples were cut in
random from each of the samples using a template dimension. The initial
weight of the sample was taken accurately using an electronic weighing
balance. Then the sample was mounted on sample holders with 200 gms
weight. The rubs were standardized to 34 revolutions. The samples were
made to rub against the abrasive surface. After 34 revolutions the samples
were removed and the final weight of each sample was taken. The weight loss
due to abrasion was calculated. The same procedure was repeated for all the
samples. The mean value of the five readings for each of the sample is
calculated. The loss in weight of each material was recorded separately to
find out the abrasion resistance of the original, finished and plasma treated
finished fabrics.
Abrasion is measured by a straight line which becomes a gradually
widened ellipse, until it forms another straight line in the opposite direction
and traces the same figure against under known condition of pressure and
abrasion (ASTM Standards, 2005). Abrasion is the wearing a way of any part
of a material by rubbing against another surface (ASTM, 2000). Abrasion is
one of the major criteria to assess the durability of the fabric and this was
repeated for 10 times.
3.12.3. Comfort Properties
This property was evaluated to find out the comfortability of the fabric
before and after finishing of 3 groups of fabrics. It includes fabric stiffness,
crease recovery and air permeability.
68
3.12.3.a. Fabric Stiffness – BS 3356 – 1990
Fabric stiffness is explained as a combined effect of elastic property
and mass per unit area (Chaudhuri, 2001). Stiffness is the ability of a textile
fabric to resist changes in shape due to bending deformation. The bending
properties like stiffness, drape, handle and crease recovery is the prime
parameters of evaluating the fabric.
Stiffness is the ability of a material to resist deformation. Bending
length is the length of a fabric that will bend on its own weight, to a definite
extent. It is a measure of the stiffness that determines the draping quality.
The Shirley stiffness tester was used to determine the stiffness of the
fabrics. A scale of 15 cm length and 2.5 cm width formed the templates. Ten
samples were cut at random both in the warp and weft directions from each of
the fabrics from 3 groups of fabrics. Each fabric along with the scale was
mounted on a horizontal platform. The scale was moved along with the
sample slowly until the fabric fell to the edge of the platform and the tip of the
fabric coincided with the index line, which was viewed in the mirror. The
bending length was recorded from the scale marked opposite to the zero on
the side of the platform. Ten readings were taken and the mean value
calculated (ASTM TM 1388-02-2005) (Plate – 6g).
3.12.3.b. Fabric Air Permeability – (ASTM D 737 – 04)
Air permeability of a fabric is the volume of air measured in cubic cm
passed per second through 1 sq.cm. for the fabric at a pressure of one cm.
Head of water.
The Air Permeability Tester (Plate – 6h) consists of a circular clamp to
hold the specimen and a spring loaded clamp to press the specimen while
testing, the room atmospheric air was drawn through the specimen by means
of a suction pump. The rate of air flow was adjusted to desired pressure drop
across the fabric which was indicated on drought gauge graduated from
c
e. Tensil
a. GSM C
c. Thicknes
le StrengthTesting M
g. Stiffness
FA
Cutter
ss Guage
h and ElongMachine
s Tester
PLATE
ABRIC EVA
gation
E – 6 ALUATION
b.
f. Abra
h. A
. Weighing
d. Pick G
asion Resis
Air Permeab
g Balance
Glass
stance Tes
bility Teste
69
ster
er
70
0.25 mm. The rate of air flow was read from the Rotameters. They were
calibrated to indicate air flow in cubic centimeter per second at 27°C and
760 mm of mercury. The area of the sample exposed to air was one inch in
diameter. From the reading Rotameter air permeability was calculated using
the following formula :
Air permeability = sq.cm.)sec / (cc / air to exposed sample of Area
flow air of rate Average
Then the mean was calculated and analyzed for three groups of fabrics
performed for ten times.
3.12.4 Absorbency Properties (AATCC 79 : 2007)
The wettability and absorbency tests include drop, sinking and vertical
wicking test. This test was conducted to find out the absorbency property of
three groups of fabrics to know the absorbency quality for the wear.
3.12.4.a. Drop Test
The drop test is a count of the number of drops required to penetrate
through to the under scale of the fabric when all the drops fall on the same
spot (AATCC Technical Manual, 2008). A burette filled with distilled water was
clamped in a stand. The stand was mounted in an embroidery frame and was
placed at the base of the stand. The distance between the sample and the
burette nozzle was kept constant. The nozzle of the burette was opened just
to allow a drop of water to fall on the sample. The stopwatch was started
simultaneously and it was stopped when the drop of water was fully absorbed
into the material. The time taken for this was noted. The same procedure was
carried out for the unfinished and finished and plasma treated finished
samples. The mean value was calculated to get accurate value (Plate – 7a).
3.12.4.b. Sinking Test
Sinking time test is a simple test that helps to measure the wettability of
a fabric (AATCC, 2008). In this method, each fabric was cut into a number of
71
equal sized squares of 1” x 1” and added to a 1000 ml beaker which was filled
with distilled water. The stop watch was started when the fabric struck the
surface of water and stopped when the last corner was sunk below the water
surface. The test was repeated 10 times for all the fabrics and the mean time
for the sinking was calculated and recorded (Plate – 7b).
3.12.4.c. Vertical Wicking Test (AATCC – 197)
The Vertical Wicking Method measures the rapidity of absorption. Ten
samples were cut into size of 11 inches in length and 1 inch width from each
sample. One end of the sample strip was pasted with a glass rod which was
placed on heavy wooden blocks and the other end was allowed to immerse in
a tray of distilled water. The rise of the water level in the strip was noted by
keeping the length of the fabric as 5 cms constant. The same procedure was
repeated for all the samples. The mean values of ten readings were
calculated and recorded. The vertical wicking of each material was recorded
carefully to find the absorbency of original, finished and plasma treated
finished fabrics. The mean values of ten readings were calculated and
recorded (Plate – 7c).
3.12.5 Anti-bacterial Assessment Test (Qualitative Test)
The anti-bacterial activity of the fabric was assessed using standard
AATCC 100 and 147 test methods. The activity was evaluated by both
qualitative and quantitative test methods. For qualitative assessment used
Agar diffusion and parallel streak method (AATCC 147-2000). Percentage
reduction test was used for quantitative assessment.
3.12.5.a. Agar Diffusion Test Anti-bacterial activity by well diffusion method (Rojas et al., 2006)
The anti-bacterial activity of the Herbal ethanolic extraction (guava
leave and prickly chaff flower) was evaluated by the Agar well diffusion
method. Sterile nutrient plates were prepared. The plates were allowed to
a.
. Drop Test
ABSO
t Machine
c. V
PLATEORBENCY P
Vertical Wi
E – 7 PROPERTI
b. S
cking Test
IES
Sinking Te
t
est Method
72
73
solidify for 5 minutes and wells of 6 mm were punctured using a well borer.
0.1% inoculum suspension of Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC 6538) and
Escherichia coli (ATCC 8739) were swabbed uniformly over the surface of the
agar. 100 µl of each herbal extract was loaded into the well and the plates
were kept in incubation at 37ºC for 24 hours. The anti-bacterial activity was
evaluated in terms of zone of inhibition, measured and recorded in
millimeters. All the unfinished, finished and plasma treated finished fabric was
evaluated for the above test.
3.12.5.b. Parallel Streak Test
The agar diffusion test has a long-standing traditional place in
microbiology analysis. This method can be recommended as a quick and
preliminary qualitative method (Hipler and Peter, 2006 and Mercy and
Thambidurai, 2009).
Mullar Huton agar media was prepared and sterilized at 121°C at
15 lbs for 15 minutes. In these sterile media five parallel streaks of the
respective test organisms were streaked. The unfinished, furnished and
plasma treated finished fabric samples were cut to a size of 21 inch and
placed perpendicular on the streaked lines. Then the plates were incubated at
37°C for 24 hours. The anti-bacterial activity was evaluated in terms of zone
of inhibition, measured and recorded in millimeters. This test followed for
three groups of fabrics.
3.12.6 Anti-bacterial Assessment Test (Quantitative Test) 3.12.6.a. AATCC Test Method 100 – 2004 Anti-bacterial Activity of Herbal Extract Finished Fabrics by AATCC Test Method 100 - 2004
All the finished fabrics were subjected to determine anti-bacterial
activity. About 1.0 ml of 12 hours test bacteria (E. coli and S. aureus) were
inoculated as droplets over the 3 swatches (test fabrics about 50 mm) using a
micropipette. After all the samples were inoculated, the flask was incubated at
74
37 ± 2°C for 18 h before being assayed for bacterial population density. The
bacterial population density was determined by extracting the bacteria from
the fabric by adding 100 ml of distilled water to each flask and shaken using
an orbital shaker for 1 minute. Then aliquots were serially diluted and pour
plated to determine the bacterial density. The difference in the number of
viable bacteria was evaluated on the basis of the percentage reduction.
Percentage reduction was calculated using the following formula.
R = (B – A) / B x 100
Where, R is percentage reduction; A is the number of bacteria recovered from
the inoculated treated test specimen swatches in the jar incubated over the
desired contact period (18 hours); B is the number of bacteria recovered from
the inoculated treated test specimen swatches in the jar immediately after
inoculation (at ‘0’ contact time) (Plates – 8a to 8g).
3.12.6.b. Wash Durability Testing (AATCC 124-1996)
The samples were washed with 5% neutral soap solution for
20 minutes and dried. The washed samples were tested for the retention of
anti-bacterial activity after every 5 launderings for 20 washes using standard
procedures. The anti-bacterial assessed by quantitative method bacterial
reduction test (AATCC test method 100-2004) the results were compared with
the unwashed fabric sample.
3.12.6.c. AATCC Test Method 124-1996 Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home laundering Hand Wash
Dissolve 20.0 ± 0.1 g of 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent
(Tide) in 7.57 ± 0.06 L (2.00 ± 0.02 gal) of water at 40°C in a 9.5 L and then
add the three fabric test specimens. Wash for 2.0 ± 0.1 minutes with no
twisting or wringing. Rinse once using 7.57 ± 0.06 L (2.00 ± 0.02 gal) of water
at 41 ± 3°C (105 ± SF). Remove the specimens and to drip dry.
75
PLATE – 8 ANTI-BACTERIAL ACTIVITY TEST AATCC – 100 METHOD
a. Control (E. coli and S. aureus)
b. Cotton AATCC 100 (E. coli) c. Cotton AATCC 100 (S. aureus)
d. Tencel Cotton AATCC 100 (E. coli)
e. Tencel Cotton AATCC 100 (S. aureus)
f. Modal Cotton 100 (E. coli) g. Modal Cotton AATCC 100 (S. aureus)
76
Machine Wash
Use a specified water level, the selected water temperature of the
washing cycle and a rinse temperature of less than 29°C. Add 66 ± 0.1 g of
1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent TIDE, a commonly used
detergent, may be used. In case of dispute the affected parties should use
1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent. Add test specimens and
enough ballast to make a 1.8 ± 0.06 kg load. Set the washer for the selected
washing cycle and time. Normal or Cotton Sturdy are recommended. Remove
the specimens and drip dry.
Drip Dry
Hang each dripping wet fabric specimen by two corners with the fabric
length in the vertical direction. Allow the specimens to hang in still air at room
temperature until it dries.
TABLE – VI WASHING MACHINE CONDITIONS
Normal/Collon Sturdy Delicate Permanent Press
Water Level 18 ± 1 gal 18 ± 1 gal 18 ± 1 gal
Agitator Speed 179 ± 2 spm 119 ± 2 spm 179 ± 2 spm
Washing Time 12 minutes 8 minutes 10 minutes
Spin Speed 645 ± 15 rpm 430 ± 15 rpm 430 ± 15 rpm
Final Spin Cycle 6 minutes 4 minutes 4 minutes
Ballast: In a vessel that travels on the water, the ballast will remain below the water
level, to counteract the effects of weight above the water level
3.12.7 Mosquito Repellency Test
There are different types of testing methods for evaluation of mosquito
repellent textiles, such as cone test, cylinder test, field test and excito-
repellency standard test systems. Among the standard tests listed, Excito-
chamber standard test was carried out to study mosquito repellent activity.
77
3.12.8 Testing of Mosquito Repellency
The mosquito repellent efficiency of the finished fabric was tested using
the modified excito chamber method. There have been numerous attempts to
accurately measure the behavioral responses of mosquitoes to insecticides
using various types of excito-repellency test systems. The test method
adapted in the present study for testing the mosquito repellent property is
modified in the fabric inside the excito chamber method.
Repellency is known to play an important role in preventing the vector
born diseases by reducing man-vector contact. Synthetic chemicals and
insecticides used for control of vectors are causing irreversible damage to the
eco-system, as some of them are non-degradable in nature. The
phytochemical derived from plant resources can act as larvicides, insect
growth regulators, repellents and ovipositional attract, having deterrent
activities observed by different researchers (Plate – 9a and 9b).
3.12.9 Mosquito Collection
Anopheles mosquitoes were identified based on morphological keys
and they were collected during the evening hours. All mosquitoes were
starved of blood and sugar of 4 hours before the tests.
3.12.10 Repellency Behavioural Tests
Specially designed two extra repellency test chambers were used to
evaluate the efficiency of repellent activity. The wooden outer chamber of
excito-repellency testing device measures 34 cm × 32 cm × 32 cm and faces
the front panel with the single escape portal. The box is composed of a rear
door cover, an inner Plexiglas glass panel with a rubber latex-sealed door, a
Plexiglas holding frame, a screened inner chamber, an outer chamber, a front
door, and an exit portal slot. Mosquitoes were deprived of all nutrition and
water for a minimum of 4 hours before exposure.
78
PLATE – 9 MOSQUITO REPELLENCY TESTING METHOD
a. Excito Chamber 1
b. Excito Chamber 2
79
Laboratory tests were performed during day light hours only and each
test was repeated four times. Observations were taken at one-minute interval
of 30 minutes. After each test was completed, the number of escaped
specimens and those remaining in the chamber were recorded separately for
each exposure chamber, external holding cage, and paired control chamber.
Escaped specimens and those remaining in the chamber, for the treated
samples, were held separately in small holding containers with food and
water.
3.13 Scanning Electron Microscopy Analysis
Scanning Electron Microscopic analysis was done to study the surface
morphology of the fabrics. The surface morphology of the finished and plasma
treated finished cotton Tencel cotton and modal cotton fabrics with guava leaf
(Psidium guajava), prickly chaff flower (Achyranthes aspera), keelanelli
(Phyllanthus niruri) and vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides) treated fabric was
studied (JEOL/EO JSM 6390). Metal coating was used as the conducting
material to analyze the sample. The SEM working on an accelerating voltage
range from 0.5-20KV and the specimen size is 8 mm to 150 mm for finishing
fabric.
3.14 Wear study
The wear study was conducted through selected adolescent girls who
worn the herbal anti-bacterial armpit pad. A total of 18 armpit pads were
stitched from the unfinished, finished and plasma treated fabrics of cotton,
tencel cotton and modal cotton finished with guava leave and prickly chaff
flower extracts. Subjective evaluation was mainly carried out to know to judge
the comfort and odour. The respondents were asked to use the armpit pads
for 7 hours from 10 am to 5 pm on alternate days after every subsequent
wash with a neutral soap. The respondent’s opinion was collected to record
the comfortness and odour retention after repeated use and wash.
80
Three cushion covers were constructed from the plasma treated and
the vetiver and keelanelli finished cotton, tencel cotton and modal cotton and
from the plasma untreated and finished vetiver and keelanelli on cotton, tencel
cotton and modal cotton. Six cushion cover was constructed was used for
performance study. Three personnel’s were selected based on the
convenience sampling. They were asked to use the cushion cover for three
hours from 6 to 9 pm when they are taking rest on the bed for 10 days. The
performance of finish was noted by using the prepared questionnaire.
Respondents opinion were recorded. The procedure was followed for both the
plasma treated and untreated cushion covers.
3.15 Statistical Analysis of the Test Results
The findings of the fabric properties of unfinished cotton, tencel cotton
and modal cotton, fabrics which was herbal finished such as guava leaf
(Psidium guajava), prickly chaff flower (Achyranthes aspera), keelanelli
(Phyllanthus niruri) and vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides) and plasma treated
finished cotton, tencel cotton and modal cotton fabrics were analyzed using
standard deviation and one way ANOVA to determine whether there is any
difference between the samples.
Conclusion Summary of Experimental Procedure
As is evident from the detailed discussion on the experimental
methodology and procedure followed in the research work, the investigative
part of the thesis work can be grouped into three phases as shown in
Figure – 1.
Phase – I of the study dealt with the consumer survey that focused on
understanding the consumer awareness on the use of health care products
which contains anti-bacterial finishes. The outcome of the survey revealed
that there is not much awareness on the advantages on the use of health care
products that contain anti-bacterial finishes. This result shows that there is a
need to have greater understanding on the development of such products in a
81
cost effective manner. The development of cost effective health care products
will result in greater acceptance of these products and will lead to penetration
of such products in the market. Having gained this understanding, the thesis
focused on developing natural and herbal based finishes that can be applied
to natural fibre blends.
Phase – II of the work focused on selected of herbs such as
anti-bacterial and mosquito repellence which could impart functional effects
such as anti-bacterial and mosquito repellence to the fabric. The details of the
materials used and the finishing treatments are given in above Table – XXXX.
Two finishing procedures were followed. Procedure one involved the
direct application of herbs such as Pisidium guajava (Guava), Achyranthes
aspera (prickly chaff flower), Phyllanthus niruri (keelanelli) and Vetiveria
zizanioides (vetiver) on to the fabric material made from cotton, Tencel/cotton
and Modal/cotton. The second procedure involved plasma pre-treatment to
the three fabric materials and subsequent to the plasma pre-treatment, fabrics
were subjected to anti-bacterial and mosquito repellent finishes.
In summary, these experimental set-ups help to understand :
a. The effect of natural herbs on functionalities such as anti-bacterial and
mosquito repellent properties;
b. The influence of plasma pre-treatment on these finishes.
Overall, 21 different types of fabrics which include natural herbs treated
fabrics without any pretreatment and plasma pre-treated fabrics with
subsequent natural herb treatments were investigated as shown in
Table – XXXXX.
Phase – III of the experimental work focused on the evaluation of
anti-bacterial and mosquito repellent properties and basic characteristics of
the fabric before and after treatments as shown in Table –XXXXXXX.
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3.16 Nomenclature
The nomenclature used for samples are given in Table – VII.
TABLE – VII NOMENCLATURE
S.No. Nomenclature Fabric samples
1. A Original cotton
2. AG1 Guava finished cotton
3. AG2 Plasma treated guava finished cotton
4. AP1 Prickly chaff flower finished cotton
5. AP2 Plasma treated prickly chaff flower finished cotton
6. B Original tencel cotton
7. BG1 Guava finished tencel cotton
8. BG2 Plasma treated guava finished tencel cotton
9. BP1 Prickly chaff flower finished tencel cotton
10. BP2 Plasma treated prickly chaff flower finished tencel cotton
11. C Original modal cotton
12. CG1 Guava finished modal cotton
13. CG2 Plasma treated guava finished modal cotton
14. CP1 Prickly chaff flower finished Tencel cotton
15. CP2 Plasma treated prickly chaff flower finished modal cotton
16. A1 Vetiver and keelanelli finished cotton
17. A2 Plasma treated veiver and keelanelli finished cotton
18. B1 Vetiver and keelanelli finished tencel cotton
19. B2 Plasma treated vetiver and keelanelli finished tencel cotton
20. C1 Vetiver and keelanelli finished modal cotton
21. C2 Plasma treated vetiver and keelanelli finished modal cotton