india 2006 journal

8/11/2019 India 2006 Journal

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India 2006

Germanton 2005 / France 2006

1-21-06 - London

We are of again! For the last month Ive elt nins"ired and have #st$een %riting and "re"aring or the tri"& "hotogra"hing "aintings' raming'$ilding crates and shi""ing things of to galleries& ever(thing $t "ainting)*everal times I tried starting something' s+etching it ot in charcoal on thecanvas' la(ing ot m( "aints' and even mi,ing " the rst color) .t eachtime I #st coldnt nd the ins"iration to start and I no% have three canvases%ith s+etched ot scenes sitting a$andoned against the %all o the stdio)eading the "a"er or %atching the ne%s #st de"resses me more) he"ointlessness o the %ar in Ira and its inevita$le cree" to%ard ivil War' andthe dee" de$t %e are incrring sim"l( to ma+e the rest o the %orld hate sma+es me eel ho"eless) I sto""ed ollo%ing the ne%s and ho"e I am %rongat %here it3s all heading) When %e nall( settled into the seats o the rst"lane' I elt an incredi$le rela,ation come over me)

*san ta+ing in the vie% ato" or London 4otel)

oo+ the t$e to the ational Galler( and ational ortrait Galler( thismorning) Interesting to see the slo% "rogression "%ard o "ainting andscl"tre throgh histor( to its height in the late 17thcentr(' then its a$r"tdecline in the 20th' at least $ased on %hat one sees in the msems) Londonis the t("ical cit( no%' little diferent than 8' .ei#ing' or an( other modernmetro"olis) 9ne has to loo+ hard to see the s$tle diferences& the slightvariance o shoe' car' or $ilding st(le) We hardl( eel li+e %eve let homeths ar)
http://www.scottburdick.com/France2006.htmhttp://www.scottburdick.com/Germanton20051.htm


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hildren shrie+ %ith delight as the( stir " a tornado o "igeons in thesare& co"les %al+ hands ent%ined& an n%ashed man rolls ot o his$lan+et right in the middle o the side%al+' goes t%o ste"s into the estivel(red "hone $ooth and relieves himsel in nashamed vie% o all) .::ct(oths %ear the team colors o their rg$( heroes and over;o% the "$s%here the( %orshi" their %arrior deities) Goths' "ensioners' torists' hstlersotside the ost %alls have at least one or t%o "hotos o trees'$eaches' and rral landsca"es& as i llling some "rimal visal need nmet

$( the actal srrondings) an (o tell I3m still a little de"ressed?

he vie% o London rom or hotel %indo%) .eatil in an indstrial %a( Igess' $t no match or the %oods and montains srronding or hose in

orth arolina' in m( o"inion)

1-2@-06 7A00 "m B Celhi

Ds I sit in or hard $ed in the onnaght hotel here in Celhi' I3m strc+$( the all "ervasive smell and thic+ness o the "ollted air and then thecaco"hon( o sonds in the cit( $elo%) Watching the sn nearing the hori:ona e% hors ago' it %as ama:ing ho% red it trned as its light strggled totoch s throgh the ha:e that hangs over ever(thing) Well $eore reachingthe hori:on' it disa""eared altogether $ehind the man-made clod $an+)


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he vie% rom or Celhi hotel room)

Ds dar+ness ell' I %as a%are o the contrast %ith the Londonnightsca"e %ed let this morning %ith its $rilliant miasma o lights %ithhardl( a dar+ ga" to $e seen an(%here) 4ere there is nearl( com"letedar+ness %ith onl( isolated "ools o dim streetlights scattered arond andoccasional ;ashing signs) he sonds o msic' hon+ing horns' alarms'shoting voices' and heart-$eating drms' is s$tl( distr$ing coming romsch dar+ness $elo% or si,th ;oor %indo%) It $oth dra%s and re"els one %ithits m(sterios lre o nding the sorce o sch "andemonim hidden $e(ondthe veil o light) Imagine a carnival at its height' $t %ith all the lights trnedot)

I gess it %as actall( (esterda( %hen %e %o+e " in London' chec+edot o the hotel and let or lggage there %hile %e too+ the t$e to the ate>sem to drin+ in the t%o rooms o *argents' Waterhoses' and the e%other masters %orth seeing there) *adl(' more than t%o thirds o the*argents alone %erent on dis"la(' held in storage some%here in the$asement so the sho%case o modern "aintings cold ll the larger rooms) Ihad to %onder %hat the crators thoght o the mch greater cro%ds %holled the t%o small rooms %ith these old master"ieces in contrast to thes"arse nm$ers o "eo"le %ho %al+ed %ith hardl( a "ase throgh the largermodern %ing containing the "aintings the(3d "ersonall( decided to acire%ith their "$lic nds? I s""ose it is #st "roo o ho% e% "eo"le are smartenogh to a""reciate the ErealE art in the msem) >a($e the( shold #st


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+ee" one hndred "ercent o that old "o"lar #n+ com"letel( hidden romvie% ntil %e come to a""reciate %hat the( +no% to $e ar $etter? I sre amtrning into a grm" in this #ornal& sall( sch nonsense #st ma+es melagh at the ridiclosness o most things) .t nothing cold ta+e a%a( romm( en#o(ment o the strong emotions the great %or+s o the "ast elicited inme and the rest o the vie%ers) motion and reall( sa(ing something%orth%hile %ith %ell-honed technical s+ills %as m( great lesson o the da()

arnation' Lil(' Lil(' ose $( ohn *inger *argent 1HH5 - 6

.elo% is one o the msems recent acisitions) I3ll let (o #dge or(orsel %hether it moves (o to an( emotion other than anger or laghter atthe msem crators themselves %ho %old choose sch things to re"resent

the great art o or time) I3m sre there %ill $e man( %ho %ill e-mail me toEe,"lainE %h( this "ainting is greater than *argent3s' $t the "oint is that i(o have to se %ords to conve( the meaning o a visal %or+ o art' (o

have ailed alread()


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erem( >oon Cra%ing 170

he onl( strange thing on the ;ight occrred %hen the attendants hads all cover or e(es %hile the( %al+ed do%n the aisles s"ra(ing the"assengers %ith a cocont scented


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oda( %e tored several $eatil monments and older rins %ithinCelhi) he architectre %as incredi$le and %e ond Celhi to $e a ver( nicecit() he ne% section is mch more modern and tid( than man( "laces %edvisited in other contries %hile the old section is nearl( indistingisha$le romthird-%orld Khatmand' e,ce"t on a ar larger scale) *san $oght severalcostmes that %ere e,cited to "ose models in %hen %e retrn home) We%ere laghing a$ot the act that man( o the gide$oo+s on India sggests+i""ing Celhi altogether' %hich seems n$elieva$le since #st a$ot ever(street holds something o interest to s)


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4ere3s *san at one o the man( historical sites)

he $eat( o %hich is $reathta+ing)


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Well maintained)))

Dnd lled %ith thoght-"rovo+ing $its o histor()


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4ere3s some ancient 4ind states that have had their heads ta+en of %henthe site %as trned into a >slim hol( "lace) .ecase o the 9ld estament3s

$an on idols' $oth hristians and >slims have throghot histor( ta+enofense at realistic art%or+s on occasion) Least (o thin+ this sort o artisticmtilation nie to >slims' a similar anatical smashing o statar( and

destrction o "aintings occrred %hen hristianit( $ecame the ocialoman religion) *ince ome had acired most o the srviving master"ieces

o the greatest Gree+ artists li+e ra:iteles' L(si""s' and heidias' their%or+s %ere lost orever in this artistic "rge) *ince scl"tres %ere a lot morediclt than "aintings to destro(' hristian Mealots %ere told that +noc+ingof the noses %as scient to drain the "o%er rom sch idols) >ost visitorsto msems "ro$a$l( don3t reali:e that the lac+ o noses on most ancient%or+s o scl"tre %as not accidental) Dncient %riters re"ort that Gree+

"ainting %as #st as advanced as its scl"tre& sadl( no e,am"les srvivedome3s conversion to hristianit() Dn interesting $oo+ on the s$#ect is Ehe

Dl"ha$et Nerss the GoddessE $( Leonard *hlain' recommended to m( $( m(riend and ello% idol ma+er' George arlson)


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I %onder %hat religion these residents o the site are?


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eligion does ins"ire as mch great art as it destro(s' ho%ever' as thismagnicent to%er attested)

1-25-06 10A17 "m

Well' another en#o(a$le da() either o s sle"t that %ell last night as%e are still ot o s(nc %ith the ten and a hal hor time change' so %e%erent com"letel( a%a+e as %e set ot or a tem"le rn or charit( and thenthe Indian 4istor( >sem' %ith so mch $eatil ancient scl"tres and

"aintings)


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We then %ent on an nsccessl drive to $an+s and mone( changersand hotels to e,change mone(' $t ever( "lace %as either closed' onl(changed mone( or $an+ cstomers' or their com"ter s(stem %as do%n) Wenall( #st changed the small amont allo%ed at or o%n hotel and %ent tolnch at a nice "lace that served sothern Indian st(le ood B ver( s"ic(!


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9ne o the man( reminders that India has aced internal terrorism itselor mch longer than %e have)


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here %ere a lot o "olice ever(%here as the( "re"ared or ananniversar( and "arade the ollo%ing da()

Dter%ard %as the da(s highlight) 9r driver' .al$ir' too+ s to 9ldCelhi and "ar+ed on the edge o it' then hired a co"le o $ic(cle ric+sha%s tota+e s do%n the narro% and overrn streets)

4ere3s .al$ir on the right in his o%n richsha%)


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.al$ir is the the $est gide %e3ve ever had on an( o or tri"s and it%as sch a "leasre having someone so great or the entire or %ee+s) 9ten

%e %old eel $ad at having him %ait or s %hile %e %ent to dra% or ta+e"hotogra"hs or #st e,"lore or hors at a time' $t he al%a(s re"lied' EIt3s

m( #o$!E he $est "art o having (or o%n driver is $eing a$le to go ot intothe contr(side or the desert and sim"l( e,"lore' meeting "eo"le and seeingthings (o never %old on a tor) ver(thing is so chea" in India that it cost

the same to hire the car and .al$ir as it %old to sim"l( rent a car in the O*)4is e-mail address is crrenc(travelP(ahoo)com

.al$ir is sot s"o+en and has a %ie and three $o(s' %hich im"ressedor Celhi gide (esterda( immensel(' %ho said he #st had his rst son threemonths ago des"ite three and a hal (ears o marriage) Listening to him tal+o ho% im"ortant it %as to have sons %ho %ill ta+e care o $oth "arents intheir old age' and ho% man( more $o(s than girls are $orn in India' I had to%onder i the three (ear dela( in their rst child had to do %ith one or t%o"regnancies that hadnt "assed the retirement test) 8esterda(s gide %asver( o"en a$ot the "rocess o arranged marriage and the caste s(stem as%ell) 4e didnt thin+ mch o


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9,en' goats' horses' dogs' chic+ens' $ic(cles' motorc(cles' trc+s'cars' "eo"le' "eo"le' "eo"le& "ac+ed into sch narro% streets as i to seemim"ossi$le!

Dlong the sides o the road "eo"le got their hair and $eards ct'coo+ed ood' sold all manner o things' re"aired machiner(' or sim"l( s"la(edot on the grond and sle"t as the ;ood o hmanit( %al+ed over and arondthem)


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E>odest(E conte cra(on' 16E $( 12E - $( *san L(on


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I (o loo+ closel( in the mirror' (o can see *san and me Q%ithcamera to m( e(e)R

When %e disem$ar+ed' %e %ent into a >slim section %ith an evennarro%er street hng %ith tar"s to "rotect the man( s"ices rom the sn) Fora$ot hal a mile the s"ice street ran' %ith sch visal and olactor( overloadas to ma+e the head s"in) ver( street %as an e,"losion o interesting aces'colors' and sonds) *ome connecting streets %ere so narro% that $oth m(sholders toched the sides and t%o "eo"le coldnt even "ass each other)


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Inside a >ose)


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Imagine $eing an electrician here!

he >slims are a$ot t%ent( "ercent o the "o"lation o India andhave had a ver( togh time throghot its modern histor() Qt%ent( "ercent oa $illion is still 200 million - larger than the entire "o"lation o >slima+istan)R Ces"ite the slight nervosness %e elt in going into this "oorsection o to%n' es"eciall( %ith the %orld sitation as it is and s the onl(%esterners %e sa% the entire time %e %ere in there' %e never heard a singleangr( %ord or action directed at s and ever(one %as niorml( crios and+ind) I did ta+e man( "hotogra"hs' $t it %as hard to $e incons"icos sinceever( head trned to%ard s %herever %e %ent) 9ne little $o(' "on trningarond and seeing me' sim"l( starred and starred at me in o"en mothed%onderment' rendered s"eechless)


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In the cort(ard o a >ose' this $o( "olitel( came " to me andas+ed i I %old ta+e a "hotogra"h o him and his ather) hroghot or tri"

man( "eo"le did the same' as i sa(ing' this "erson is im"ortant to me' he is%orth( o having a "hotogra"h made o him or her)


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.eore %e let on this tri"' man( "eo"le as+ed s i %ere scared goingto "laces %here there %ere >slims' $t the images %e see on the ne%s are


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not re"resentative o the ma#orit() he "ro"ortion o e,tremists are no greaterthan an(%here else' inclding or o%n contr()

hen $ac+ to the hotel to %atch the Dstralian 9"en' then DmericanIdol - it eels li+e time traveling $ac+ and orth a e% hndred (ears as %ecome and go rom the hotel)

he Ghandi >emorial)

1-2-06 A15 am

D long da( (esterda(' $t all ver( nice) he drive rom Celhi to Dgrata+es a$ot or and a hal hors' $t %e too+ or time and sto""ed at a e%

tem"les and to ta+e a co"le o "hotos o "eo"le' camels' and otherinteresting things along the %a() he high%a( is ver( %ell +e"t " and thetrac not $ad at all' a %elcome contrast to or tri" to i$et! Ds throghotDsia' the road is sed $( a %ide assortment o vehicles rom the most"rimitive to modern' thogh the amel carts are a ne% one to s and I %assr"rised at ho% $ig the camels are %hen (ore actall( standing right ne,tto them in "erson)


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Dt one $ilding constrction site' a do:en %oman in $right saris carried$as+ets o sand and gravel on their heads to a mi,er that made cement' then%as hoisted " three stories and carried $( more %oman to $e dm"ed%here needed $( the %or+ers)


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Dll along the road lie %ent on in a rela,ed individalit( that added "to the a""earance o ren:() he mi,tre o modern and ancient methods oever(thing is the most stri+ing eatre and the eeling o $eing caght in atime o e,treme transition is "roond) 9,carts com"ete %ith tractors' $lac+-s+inned men %ash com"letel( na+ed at a %ater "m"' old men si" tea $eoretheir shac+' armers %or+ elds o rice and mstard $eside their hts ostra%' co% "ies' %ood' stone' or concrete)

4ere3s some hts made rom dried co% dng' some %ith grass on to"or the roos) he co% dng is also sed as el to coo+ %ith)


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*mo+e $elching chimne(s ever(%here! he s""l( o mil+ to the cit(comes in $( $ic(cle' or trc+s laden %ith mil+ #gs and "eo"le "iled on to" othat) Withot rerigeration' the mil+ mst $e sold and then consmed %ithinhors o $eing e,tracted)


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.al$ir sa(s that driving in India ta+es three things& good $ra+es' a goodhorn' and good lc+! 4is "arents live a$ot eight hors north in the4imala(as on the hinese $order in a remote area %here the( gro% "otatoes'mstard' rice' and a e% other cro"s) his is %here he gre% " and he ta+eshis amil( there or t%o months each (ear in the %inter %hen the toristseason in Celhi is at it3s lo%est) 4e "rodl( tells me that he o%ns t%o co%sand one $falo) .al$ir learned to drive %hen he %as orteen and let or Celialone to $ecome a driver at age si,teen) 4es no% thirt( t%o)

>an( o the trc+s and cars had these driving instrctions "ainted on

the $ac+ and it %as one o the onl( signs I3ve seen o$e(ed!


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We chec+ed into the 4otel rident' %hich is $eatil! he t%o storieso rooms are laid ot in a circle arond a cort(ard garden %ith a "ool in the

center) a$le N' a sot $ed' and even %ireless internet access) his tri" has$een the easiest %eve ever ta+en so ar and %e nd it ama:ing to thin+ that%eve $een a $it araid o India or so long $ased on the man( horror stories%eve heard rom "eo"le a$ot this contr() *san %as having an,iet(attac+s a e% %ee+s $eore leaving as she read the harro%ing tales in travel$logs a$ot the "laces %ere traveling to) In act' in the several do:en sheread' all %ere $ad! I imagine (o cold ma+e an(thing hard i (o %anted to'or $e nlc+(' $t nli+e so man( "laces %eve gone' there is a clear choicehere) 8o can hire a car and have a "leasant drive and sta( in a nice hotel)

hings are ver( chea" here' so even this doesnt cost mch) I (o choose tosta( some%here or a dollar' I dont nderstand com"laining a$ot it and"ainting the entire contr( as $ac+%ard) 8o cold #st as easil( ma+e(orsel misera$le in the Onited *tates as an(%here else throgh schchoices) *ometimes I thin+ some travelers li+e hardshi" and telling ever(oneho% togh ever(thing is some%here merel( to ma+e themselves seem li+eadventrers) ertainl( %eve $een to "laces %here there sim"l( %as no othero"tion than the tent Qe"alR' disgsting gesthose Qi$etR or a dirt-;ooredht %ith a amil( QerR& and those %ere interesting as %ell& $t here in thema#or areas o India there is certainl( a choice and Id hate to thin+ that soman( "eo"le are avoiding traveling here $ecase o all the negativit()


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ven thogh %e3ve seen this e,act scene a thosand times on N andin $oo+s' it still ta+es the $reath a%a( in "erson)

In the aternoon %e visited the a# >ahal' %hich %as trl( s"ectaclaras the sn set and "ainted it orange) I most en#o(ed all the colorll( dressedIndians) here are lots o %estern torists here' and %e %ere as mch o anattraction to them) 9ne large amil( %ith ten children came " to me andsh(l( as+ed i Id ta+e their "ictre so the( cold see themselves on thescreen) I "hotogra"hed each child and sho%ed them their ace on m( screen)*san sat do%n to rest or a %hile near the line to enter the main $ilding)Finall( one %oman got " the corage to sa( hi to her and then the ;ood$ro+e and ever(one %as smiling at her and holding " the circle s(m$ol thatmeans $eatil) Its eas( to orget that %hat %e see as e,otic is ordinar( hereand strange to thin+ o orselves as seeming ot o the ordinar( to others)


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his is one o the small arch%a(s to the let o the main central one' togive (o some sense o the magnicent scale o the a# >ahal)


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>an( orget that the a# >a#al is still a >slim hol( "lace and i (o goarond to the $ac+ (o %ill see some o the %orshi"ers %ashing in the

ontain and "ra(ing at a >ose $ehind the main $ilding)

1-2-06 6A1H "m

Well! st retrned rom %al+ing some o the $ac+ streets o Dgra %hile*san rested in the hotel' %atching tennis and doing some s+etches) he"lace is an artists %onderland' $t ite a challenge to "hotogra"h) venthogh Dgra is a ma#or sto" on the tor circit' ever(one normall( #st sta(sone da( to see the a# >ahal and the Dgra Fort so most o the "eo"le in theto%n itsel have onl( seen a %esterner throgh the %indo% o a $s) I sa% notone other %esterner or the three hors I %al+ed arond and ever(%here I%ent #st a$ot ever(one %anted to sa( hi and I %as so s%am"ed $( e,citedchildren that getting an( sort o candid "hoto o "eo"le %ith their %ater$falo' "m"ing %ater' or %hatever else %as nearl( im"ossi$le since all thechildren %old rsh to %herever I "ointed m( camera) I %old have to "oint itin the o""osite direction o %hat I %as going to shoot so ever(one ran overthere' and then s"in arond and sna" of one or t%o shots $eore $eing$loc+ed $( the mass o aces and raised hands) .t the e,"erience %as morethan %orth it' nevertheless' since seeing and meeting ever(one ace to aceis al%a(s the most memora$le and s"irital "art o tri"s)


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ED harming *mileE India $( *san L(on16E $( 20E oil

Weve $een to enogh "laces arond the %orld to recogni:e that Dgrais a some%hat dangeros one) he o$vios signs are eas( to see B men %ithshotgns over their sholder are on man( corners' sometimes several i it is acar"et sho" or a constrction site) he more s$tle signs %hen (o go intothe t%ist( streets o the neigh$orhoods Q%here there are no gards' "olice' ormilitar(R are the certain s%agger and challenging loo+ in the e(es o a e% othe teenagers and some (ong men) Its the same loo+ Ive seen in hicago'Lima' etc) and mainl( occrs %here (ong $o(s gro% " "oor $t in sight o


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the %ealth( %ith no honest "ros"ect o achieving it or themselves) 9nce ofthe arm' there is little to occ"( sch children and the( soon learn to ghtand then to $and together to ta+e %hat the( cannot earn)


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D sign' literall(' o things to come in the to%n)

he greatest deense in sch "laces is a smile and %al+ing right " to thosestaring at (o and holding (or hand ot to sha+e it) I had no $ad


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e,"eriences' $t cold eel the nderl(ing "ossi$ilit( o danger nonethelessand %old never ventre in there at night) he "eo"le at the hotel and eventhe sho"+ee"ers along the main street tr( to tal+ me ot o %al+ing into theneigh$orhoods each time I leave' $t there sim"l( is no other %a( o seeingthis side o India as %ell as the monments %ithot ta+ing some ris+) hething to remem$er is that most o the "eo"le' as in all dangerosneigh$orhoods' are honest and hard%or+ing and its sad to see the dangerthe( mst live %ith ever( da( in order to earn their $read)

he constrction sites are another %onder) ents o tattered cloth and"lastic hose the %or+ers' %hich inclde men %oman and children) he mendo mch o the s+illed la$or' %hile the %oman carr( loads o $ildingmaterials on their heads in $as+ets' %hile the children do an(thing rom$ending re$ar' to %rangling o,en) >an( o the sites have small tem"les set


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Ehree Windo%sE oil' 26E $( J0E $( *cott .rdic+

he a# >ahal rom Dgra Fort) *adl(' the "olltion is slo%l( eating a%a( themar$le o this %onder o the %orld)


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1-27-06 *nda( 5A50 "m

Im sitting on the rooto" area o or 4otel in ai"r' %hich is %here orroom is also located) he sonds are chanted "ra(ers in the distance' andthosands o nches in a single tree $elo% s in the hotel cort(ard) herooto"s o the cit( are lled %ith (ong $o(s ;(ing +ites' %hich cro%d theentire s+( %ith dashing and circling colored sares' onl( otnm$ered $(the ;oc+s o $irds that are ever(%here here) he( ma+e me thin+ o the $oo+a$ot Dghanistan called


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Kites lling the s+( in ever( direction!

I (o loo+ in the ""er right o this "hoto' (o3ll see all the colorldots o +ites tangled in the "o%er lines)


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ai"r is the ca"ital o a#asthan and the main section o it is itemodern) he drive rom Dgra %as "leasant' thogh some sections o the road%ere torn " as the( are e,"anding it to $ecome a ve lane high%a(someda() he nm$er o camel carts on the road have increased greatl( andman( are colorll( decorated and even "ainted %ith designs)

ver( vehicle in India is tili:ed to the ma,imm' %ith the to" o ever($s and train "ac+ed %ith "eo"le as %ell) ven children3s school $ses have

+ids hanging of the $ac+ $m"er and sitting on to")

9n the %a( here %e sto""ed at Fateh"r *i+ri' $ilt $( the >ghalm"eror D+$ar in 151) he most interesting "art o the architectre %as ho%

the m"eror %anted to res"ect all the varios religions nder his rle' soeach section %as $ilt in a st(le to "a( homage to a diferent one& >slim'4ind' hristian' and several others) It %as an interesting contrast in tal+ingto or gide' Imam' a$ot the "ro$lems in the last t( (ears $et%een 4indand >slim and the discrimination man( >slims have sfered nder) I %assr"rised to hear or gide tell s that the constittion or$ids a >slim rom$eing elected rime >inister)


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It3s hard getting sed to the vast diferences in "ers"ective %hentraveling some%here li+e India) In the Onited *tates even most o the "oor


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have rnning %ater' television' electricit(' ood) ven the %ealthiestDmericans have $asicall( the same things as I do) heir hose ma( have anocean vie% and more rooms' their car is more e,"ensive' %rist-%atch madeo gold' and their television larger& $t the diferences are more cosmeticthan s$stantive& more a matter o "restige and social stats mar+ing thanan(thing else) hat isn3t the case here) .al$ir as+ed me i I %as rich and Ire;e,ivel( re"lied that I %as ar rom rich) 4e as+ed i I had a car and I said%e had t%o sed cars' reali:ing even $eore I nished sa(ing it that $( hisstandards I %as %ealth( $e(ond imagining) 4e3s $een a driver all his adlt lie

and still ta+es the $s %ith his amil( $ac+ to his "arent3s village since the carhe drives is the travel com"an(3s) >ost amilies live in hts and hoses halthe si:e o or $edroom' the clothes the( %ear are their onl( ones' andhnger isn3t #st an a$stract conce"t) Dnd (et))) I3d have to sa( "eo"le ingeneral seem more content) *ometimes it a""ears that no matter ho% mch(o ma+e or acire in the Onited *tates' (o are al%a(s com"aring (orselto those %ho have more and eeling discontented)

his is a ver( t("ical hose in the India contr(side' sometimes madeo grass' sometimes o md or dng) he entire amil( slee"s on the ;oor'e,ce"t dring the rain( season' %hen the( constrct a raised "latorm to

+ee" them of the %et ;oor) I noticed some o the hts had small holes thatgo nder the ht or the goats to slee" in to +ee" ot o the smmer heat)

.( the %a(' Imam also said he %as ver( lc+( since he has three sons

and no girls B *san $ristled at this $t said nothing ntil %e %ere alone inthe car) *o ar ever(one %eve met has onl( had sons and I %onder i that ismerel( a sign that the "eo"le %e meet %ho %or+ in the hotel and toristindstr( are %ell of enogh to aford the test that %ill tell (o the $a$(s se,)I as+ed one o or gides i the greater nm$er o $o(s is ma+ing it dicltor some to nd %ives' and he said' (es' that is starting to ha""en) I imaginethat in t%ent( (ears' girls %ill $e ver( vala$le indeed as all these "ri:edsons start com"eting or the e% girls to marr(! In man( %a(s' I %onder' as Idid %hen I st sa% this "henomena in hina' i it isnt some dee"' natral%a( o slo%ing the "o"lation gro%th %hen resorces get stretched so thin)Dter all' its reall( not the nm$er o children one has in the long rn that %illdetermine the gro%th o the "o"lation' $t the nm$er o girls) I ever(


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Indian had their %ish as to the se, o their children and had onl( $o(s' the"o"lation %old "lmmet to :ero in a single generation!


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I %onder i there is some correlation to the desire or $o(s as "overt(rises in a societ( %here it is the res"onsi$ilit( o $o(s to care or the "arentsin their old age? ertainl( it seems that as civili:ations $ecome %ealth('"eo"le sto" %orr(ing a$ot the se, o the child as mch and' %ith the a$ilit(to care or themselves in retirement' "o"lation gro%th itsel even reverses)

his %as the case even as ar $ac+ as oman times' %hen it %as o$served"arado,icall( that onl( the "oor can aford man( children) 9r o%n"o"lation is onl( rising in nm$ers de to immigration' and those rst %orldcontries in ro"e and a"an that limit immigration are actall( having a

shar" decline in "o"lation that is threatening their tre economies)ertainl( it is o$vios that India3s "o"lation is reaching the $rea+ing "oint asit strains it3s resorces' and one has to %onder i the entire "lanet is as %ell)


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he mar+ets are at their most interesting in the earl( morning as thearmers arrive rom their long tre+ into to%n to sell their "rodce)


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EDgra 4orse artE encil HE $( 12E - *cott .rdic+


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EGirl rom DgraE India11 $( H charcoal - *san L(on


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E>an o haracterE conte' 17E $( 1HE India - *san L(on

he other thing %e did (esterda( %as seeing %hat the( call the


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4ere3s *san nding hersel the center o attention %ith the a# >ahal$arel( visi$le in the $ac+grond thogh the ha:e o "olltion)


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Dn island in the center o the river seemed to $e the cit(s Landromat'%ith some "eo"le sto""ing their ric+sha%s on the $ridge and lo%ering do%n

$ndles o landr( or the long line o %ashers to $eat ot against the roc+sand then la( ot to dr( on the sand) here %ere also acres o grass te"eesstac+ed to dr( and hts made o the same material) Woman %al+ed the o"enareas ater the herds o $falo "assed to collect the vala$le dng' %hile$oats "oled themselves " the river to nloaded their cargos o clean landr(at the shore)


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4ere3s the vats o %ater that are heated to %ash the clothes)

hen laid ot to dr( on the hot sand)


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Dnd ta+en $( $oat to the shore to $e "ic+ed " or delivered to theo%ners) ven i (o cold aford a %ashing machine' %ithot rnning %ater ineven %ell-of homes' the( #st aren3t that "ractical) D rerigerator is illogical

as %ell' %hen "o%er ma( $e ot more than it is on each da()


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otice some o the .all(%ood movie "osers in the $ac+grond)

1-@1-06 esda(' 5A@0 "m

*san and I are in sch constant motion its hard to set aside a e%moments to %rite in the #ornal& "tting do%n even a small "ercent o %hat%e see ever( da( %old $e im"ossi$le) 8esterda( started %ith m( salmorning %al+ throgh the $ac+ streets o the old section o to%n and toda(*san %ent %ith me or a little %hile' thogh %hile she accom"anied me %estc+ to the main streets' %hich are challenging enogh! ach to%n certainl(has its o%n ;avor and %hile this one is renetic and al%a(s cro%ded %ith aconstant $ac+grond sond o $ee"ing' the "eo"le are ver( riendl( even inthe "oor neigh$orhoods and there isnt the nderl(ing nease o Dgra) Ihavent seen man( gards %ith gns here or the sho"s li+e Dgra' thogh I


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did see one (ong school$o( Qarond eightR accom"anied $( a %ell dressedgard in a traditional %hite coat' tr$an' and long mstache) 4e had a longri;e dra"ed over his sholder and the t%o tal+ed li+e the( %ere sed to eachother and I assmed the $o( %as rom a %ealth( amil( %ho cold aford agard or their "ri:ed son)


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he %ell or "m" is an ever $s( s"ot in all to%ns in India) eo"le eedtheir animals' %ash their clothes' collect %ater or coo+ing' and %ater their

animals) 9ne never sees them em"t( or long)


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E4ol( >anE oil' 2JE $( 1HE India) $( *cott .rdic+

he most diclt thing to deal %ith' es"eciall( in the morning' is theover"o%ering "olltion and dst) he car and $s mes are "art o it' $t thedominant irritant is the "iles o trash "eo"le ha"ha:ardl( scra"e together andthen set a$la:e a$soltel( an(%here& in the middle o the street even) hesmo+e cases a constant ha:e and the accmlated ashes get s%e"t $ac+and orth continosl( $( "eo"le ever(%here %ith the stra% s%ee"ers sedhere) o attem"t is made to "ic+ the dst and ashes " to $e haled of' sothe( sim"l( get "shed this %a( $( one "erson' then $ac+ the other %a( $( asecond and so on' %ith each s%ee"ing merel( stirring the dst " intoaccmlating clods that ma+e $reathing a chore)


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ven the gar$age is colorl -- ma($e I shold "aint this scene and seei the ate >sem %old li+e to acire it or a e% hndred thosand?

4ere3s the morning rital o setting the accmlated trash a$la:e)


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ver(one does their "art as the "igs' dogs' and co%s see %hat the(can dis"ose o in the trash -- o corse' the( tend to de"osit as mch as the(

consme)

hen there3s the heart$rea+ing sight o all the lo% cast children %hocollect %hatever can $e rec(cled)


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Dnother (ong rec(cler)

*san %ore a ltering mas+ and man( o the "eo"le hold cloths overtheir moths and nose)


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*san %earing the latest in Indian ashion)


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hen there is s"ott( covering o co%' camel' o,' ele"hant' and horsedng on the smaller streets that ma+es most o the cit( smell more li+e a co%"astre) he smell reminds me o descri"tions Id read o London and e%

8or+ $eore the invention o the atomo$ile) o%s' hge $lls' goats' and "igsroam ever(%here' $ro%sing throgh the "iles o gar$age and some o thevegeta$les that all of the carts going to mar+et) 4ere and there %oman mil+the co%s and collect it in large silver containers to $e sold and consmedic+l( $eore it s"oils) Weve no do$t "assed $( some o the sorces o themil+ in or tea and the $anana lassis I love so mch Q*san cant eat the

lassies since ever( time shes tried on "ast tri"s' shes sfered ater%ard)R

India has their share o ransvestites and nchs' as %ell) he( are asmch a "art o the tradition as the mltitde o deities and s$ religios

sects) 4indism has over three million gods to choose rom' ater all!


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E*ac+ o otatoesE India7 1/2 $( H "encil - *san L(on


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Ds %e o$served in hina' s"itting is not onl( an acce"ted "ractice' it isconsidered health()


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als)


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EGentle 8othE India' conte' 21E $( 16E - *san L(on


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ED *ha%l to "rotect rom the *nE IndiaH 1/2 $( 1/2 "encil - *san L(on


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We sa% man( "laces %here %ealth( Indians %ere distri$ting ood tothe "oor) overt( is seen as a natral thing $( man( here& again the $elie o

caste "la(ing a ma#or role) While $eing $orn into a lo% caste means (o cannever rise a$ove it theoreticall(' ntil (o are re$orn in the ne,t lie' it alsomeans that the higher castes eel dt(-$ond to give to the "oor in order to

+ee" rom sli""ing to a lo%er caste %hen the( die)


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En ote or Ca(3s rrandsE India' 9il' 12E $( 7E - *san L(on


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8esterda( in the morning and aternoon %e visited a e% o the amossites as %ell as the Dm$er Fort)


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4ere3s *san getting the traditional 4enna "ainted onto her hand)

9nce this dries in a$ot thirt( mintes' (o %ash it of and all that islet is a $ro%n stain o the design) It lasts a$ot t%o %ee+s)


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9r gide or the tor o the monments %as a middle aged man %ho%as sr"risingl( a $achelor %ith a "assion or movies) 4ed alread( seen King

Kong t%ice since its release a co"le o %ee+s ago and %as an enc(clo"ediao Dmerican and Indian lms) 4e said that Indians mainl( li+e ha""( endingsso %hen a 4oll(%ood lm comes ot %ith a sad ending' the( %ill see it' $tthen see the nmeros .oll(%ood rema+es that change the ending to theirtaste) 4e said that


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Ds %ell as $eing hol(' co%s are almost a "art o the amil()


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Dter or morning %al+ and a nice lnch at a traditional restarantcalled


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Well' *san is doing some s+etching' so I thin+ Ill get ot m( "encilsand "ad and #oin her B theres some msicians set " in the cort(ard thatmight $e n to dra%)


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Frida(' 2-@-06 A15 am

Weve $een here in the sh+ar area or t%o da(s no% and once again%e are ama:ed at ho% diferent each "lace %e visit is rom the last! 9 corsethe "alaces and torist monments are starting to get monotonos' $t theactal to%ns and the ;avor o the dress and even the "eo"les attitdes shit%ith each move %e ma+e) 4ere amels "redominate and %eve reached a

tre desert environment) With e,tensive irrigation rom the ndergrondaiers the arms all arond are lsh and $eatil %ith the montains as$ac+dro") his is the heart o %inter and it is still in the eighties and even lo%nineties dring the da(' %hile in the smmer 100 to 115 is the norm) 9,carts' camels' and tin( don+e(s nall( otnm$er cars and motorc(cles andtractors so the "lace has the eel o %hat I imagine cson' Dri:ona ma($eeight( (ears ago) 9tside o to%n the air is clean! It is the rst time since%eve $een here that I can ll m( lngs %ithot tre"idation and it is a relie)

he contr(side arond here is the rst "lace I cold imagine living i I everchose to move to India)

EWoman %ith CrmE 16 $( 12 oil - *san L(on


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ENegeta$le .as+etE 16 $( 12 oil - *san L(on

We are sta(ing a$ot or +ilometers otside o the actal to%n osh+ar in the sh+ar esort 4otel) Ces"ite the grand name' it is sim"le'%ith $asic cottages that mostl( have electric "o%er' sim"le $athrooms' andeven a N %ith a e% stations) he $est "art is the "ool %ith %ater "m"ed" rom a %ell that is nm$ingl( cold) Li+e ever(one else here' %e ta+e a$rea+ in the aternoon and rest $( the "ool %hile the %orst heat o the da(goes $() I love the shoc+ o #m"ing into the "ool to cool do%n' $t the %ateris so cold *san hasnt $een a$le to $ring hersel to ollo%) From the ama:edloo+s o the colorll( dressed gardener %oman and staf' I dont thin+ the(see too man( "eo"le s%im in the "ool) here seem to $e onl( a co"le o"eo"le sta(ing here and %e contine to $e an attraction) While *san la( inthe hammoc+ in her s%imsit' one o the gardener %oman dressed in here,otic sari came over and toched each o her toes' %hile singing %hatsonded li+e a 4indi llla$() he %oman are es"eciall( ascinated $( *san3slight s+in' %hich she sees as a crse since it is so eas( or her to sn$rn)4ere light s+in is a sign o $eat( and a sre tic+et to a %ealth( marriage oran( %oman $orn %ith it) What mst the( thin+ o oreign travelers la(ing otin the sn $( the "ool in an attem"t to gain the $ron:e glo% o the Indian%oman?


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ather than $( things in the stores o the large to%ns' %e li+ed to drive otinto the contr(side %here "eo"le %ere actall( ma+ing the things) 4ere3sone o the masters o his crat that %e $oght a rg rom) ven thogh he

lived ot in the desert in the middle o no%here' man( stores order rgs romhim) 4ere3s his card $elo%)

.t as I %andered a$ot' I reali:ed that sch "laces have anathenticit( all their o%n and it %as n seeing %hat this nie mi,tre oIndian ilgrims and torists have created) here %ere lots o "eo"le %hocalled themselves g("sies' %hich ma+es sense since the om langage is*ans+rit-$ased' %hich originated in India) I %as strc+ $( ho% ethnicall(

distinct the aces o the G("sies loo+ed' no do$t de to their intermarriagein their o%n gro" des"ite its %ide ranging geogra"h() *ome o s se"arateorselves $( $orders' some $( religion' some $( "hiloso"h()


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Its so n %al+ing or driving arond the contr(side and meeting the"eo"le' %ho are niversall( e,cited to meet s and' nli+e in some o thetorist( areas or even in the to%ns near them' never as+ or mone( or mind$eing "hotogra"hed) he da(s %e s"ent in sh+ar %ere n' thogh drainingde to the constant $egging and cro%ds) We did nd a deserted tem"lecort(ard %here I s+etched the tem"le and *san some co%s' $t even there'$( the time %e nished' %ord had s"read and %e had a large cro%d aronds %atching) his %oldnt $e as mch o a "ro$lem e,ce"t that "eo"le

encircle (o com"letel( so that (o cant even see %hat (ore tr(ing todra%)


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9ne o the more nota$le e,"eriences I had %as going into a .$o"ahcam" #st otside o sh+ar one morning and %al+ing throgh the small tentcit(' $ilt $asicall( rom scra"s) eo"le had their goats' the $asic shelter' anda re) 9ne girl %as %ashing the dishes rom the morning meal $( sim"l(r$$ing sand over each "late and "ot) he sim"licit( o their lives %as schthat the rst emotion %as "it(' $t as I got acainted %ith the "eo"le' Ireali:ed the( %ere ite ha""( and reall( no diferent than an(one (o mightmeet an(%here in the %orld) o do$t this is ar closer to the %a( hmansocieties have lived or the ma#orit( o or histor( than the articialenvironments %e no% see as the norm) 9ne amil( invited me into their cam"or tea and the ather "la(ed his traditional instrment %hile he and his %iesang) I %as ama:ed at ho% e,"ert he %as %ith something that loo+ed li+elittle more than some scra" %ood and string) I noticed that across the road%as another cam"' $t the .$o"ah "eo"le all %arned me that the( %ereg("sies and it %old $e ver( dangeros to go there) Dt the time I thoghtthe( might $e e,aggerating' $t too+ their advice and didnt go over theredes"ite all the "eo"le %ho %aved e,citedl( or me to cross the road to theircam")


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It %as ama:ing the $eatil msic this man made %ith his home-madeinstrment)

Dter sh+ar' %e came here to Khimsar Fort and have s"ent the laste% da(s going to the near$( agar camel and cattle air' %here "eo"lerom all over the area have gathered to sell livestoc+ and en#o( someentertainment) Wal+ing throgh the vast cam" o animals has sch amedieval eel to it)


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amel trading is a serios $siness and the negotiation can go on or a longtime and $ecome ite heated at times) 9nce the deal is strc+' ho%ever'

ever(one laghs and has tea together)


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4ere3s a close-" o some o the "atterns and designs "eo"le create %ithsim"le scissors $( trimming the camels hair) hese "atterns are $oth artistic

and serve to identi( camels as %e might se $rands on cattle)


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E>other and .a$(E IndiaH $( charcoal - *san L(on


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8o can3t reall( tell the e,tent o it rom the grond' $t the encam"ment otents' cattle' horses' and camels %ent or miles)


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Eattle raderE India' oil 2JE $( 1HE - *cott .rdic+

Oniversall(' "eo"le are riendl( and e,cited to meet s' ofering s tea andood %herever %e go) he onl( e,ce"tion are the g("sies) 9nce again all the"eo"le %arn s to +ee" clear o their area at the cattle air' $t %hen the(see s even rom aar' oten times the( s%arm over' gra$$ing at or clothesand tr(ing their $est to steal an(thing the( can) I have to orcell( sla" theirhands or (an+ the %rists o the %oman and children to +ee" their hands oto m( "oc+ets and the( oten tr( "inching (o to dra% (or attention soanother might get something rom (o on the other side) Ive literall( seenthe "arents s"rring three and or (ear olds on to%ard s' encoraging themto get %hat the( can either throgh $egging or thet) I long ago read a $oo+a$ot the om' %hich is %hat the g("sies call themselves' and it tal+ed a$otthis cltre o thieving and their rational that God had granted them"ermission to do so' and I can see clearl( no% %h( ever(one arond heresta(s clear o them) *san is es"eciall( disgsted at the sight o themteaching their children to steal and %eve had some interesting discssions othe moralit( o this) ertainl( it seems o$viosl( %rong rom or "oint-o-vie%as the ones %ith so mch' $t are the( an( more immoral than thes""osedl( "standing .ritish soldier or citi:en %ho $asicall( too+ %hat the(%anted rom India no less $oldl( and on a ar greater scale than an( g("s(cold dream o? 9r %hat o the $ontil resorces o or o%n contr(' itselstolen rom the ative Dmericans? >oralit( is generall( a l,r( %on $( theimmoral actions o ancestors)


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his dancing camel stole the sho% at the contest to see %ho had the $estdressed camel)


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D co"le o nights ago %e %ent to the air to see some dancing andmsic and e,"ected #st a small gro" o "eo"le %atching) What a sr"rise%hen %e sa% the vast trac #am and hge cro%ds descending on eld %herethe stage had $een set "! It %as actall( some%hat scar( and %e almost

#st trned arond and let) .t then someone told s that some seats in theront had $een set aside or "ress and NIs so I as+ed one o the armedgards i %e cold go sit in there) 4e as+ed or m( "ass' %hich I didnt have'o corse) I told him I %or+ed or a travel maga:ine and the( let s in andgave s a seat in the ver( ront ro%) here %as singing and dancing' $oth

traditional and in the modern .oll(%ood st(le (o see on television and anolder %oman and her daghter %ho %ere 4indi "o" stars %ho also a""earedin movies here got the $iggest res"onse o all since the( %ere amosthroghot India) D""arentl( the( %ere the reason or the over;o%ing cro%d)

It %as so lod' ho%ever' that %e $oth %ished %ed had ear"lgs) ventall('thogh' there %as so man( "eo"le tr(ing to get a vie% o the s"ectacle' thatthe cro%d %as srging dangerosl( against the $arrier $ehind s li+e a great%ave straining a $rea+%ater) Co:ens o "olice smac+ed their long $am$oostic+s on the edge o the $arrier' hands' and even a e% heads to tr( and+ee" it $ac+' $t as things gre% more chaotic and the noise got to s' %edecided to leave $eore the nale)


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E""eteerE agar Cesert Festival- IndiaJ0 $( @0 oil - *san L(on

Getting ot %as a challenge' thogh since %e had to orce or %a( throghthe mo$ o "eo"le tr(ing to see over the e,it gate) I hid m( camera nder m(

coat and *san %ra""ed her sha%l com"letel( arond her head to ma+ehersel incons"icos and %e eventall( made it to the car %ithot incident)


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he Khimsar Fort 4otel is a$ot ort( +ilometers rom the agr air'$t %ell %orth it) It is the nicest "lace %eve sta(ed in so ar' having $een$ilt arond the rins o an ancient ort and com"letel( in the st(le) ven thesmallest details are "erect' the staf is incredi$l( riendl(' and each hotelarea has gards so there is no %orr( a$ot an(thing) he ne,t da(' %hen I%ent $ac+ to the air %ith .al$ir' *san met the mother and daghter singers%ed seen at the concert the da( $eore at the hotel sho") he( %ere also

sta(ing at the Khimsar Fort 4otel and %ere sho""ing or clothes as %ell)*san said that ever(one %ho sa% them %ere so star strc+ it %as strangeor an otsider to see) he %oman laghed at all the attention and told thesalesgirls the( shold concentrate on *san since she %old "ro$a$l( $emore li+el( to $( something than her)


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eacoc+s %ere ever(%here)

2-H-06 HA@0 D>

Well' 8esterda( aternoon %as intense) Dter considering ta+ing thehotels


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EWo%WEEWoman rom the ontr(sideE IndiaH 1/2 $( 1/2 "encil - *san L(on

he da(s %ere so hot no% at the height o the %inter it is hard toimagine living here in these hts dring the smmer %ith no electricit( or airconditioning) I too+ a $nch o "hotogra"hs o this amil( and had the oldergirl come %ith s $ac+ to or car or s to give her one o the sets o colored"encils %e $roght %ith s) 9nce %e reached the car' ho%ever' a do:enchildren in modern school clothes srronded s and tried gra$$ing thecolored "encils rom m( hand ever( time I attem"ted handing it to the girl)9ne little girl %as "articlarl( aggressive and +e"t shoting something overand over at me so that I as+ed .al$ir %hat she %as sa(ing) 4e told s she%as sa(ing that the little girl didnt need "encils since she %as #st a armerand didnt go to school %hile she hersel %as in school so deserved themmore) I laghed at this and nall( scceeded in giving the "encils to the armgirl) he logic o the school girl made me thin+ sadl( that she might $e agreat "olitician someda()


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We contined driving do%n the road or a %hile and then started

seeing a e% tractors %ith "eo"le in them %ho had red "igment all over theiraces and clothes) Interested' %e trned do%n a sand( trac+ %here the(seemed to $e coming rom and soon came across a hge cro%d o arondve hndred "eo"le' dancing and cele$rating in a long "rocession) here %asa central tractor "iled high %ith "eo"le arond an old ashioned horn-sha"eds"ea+er that "ro#ected msic over the heads o the "rocession) D sea ocolorll( dressed %oman carr(ing metal #gs %ith coconts on the to" %assrronded $( men and children %ho danced and ha""il( thre% handls odr( red "igment on each other)


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EEKrishna rocessionE India' oil 26E $( J0E - *cott .rdic+

*san and .al$ir sta(ed %ith me or a little $it' $t as more and morered dst covered s' and a sea o children srronded s' the( retreated to


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the car %hile I contined strggling to ta+e m( "hotogra"hs o the e,"losiono color and emotion) It %as li+e $eing in a %ar :one %ith the red dst ;(inginto m( e(es and ever( one o the children so des"eratel( %anting their"hotogra"h ta+en that the( #m"ed " and do%n %ith their hands in the air$eore me) 9nce again I had to "oint m( camera in the o""osite direction othe "rocession to dra% the children over there and then s%ing arond andta+e a e% no$strcted shots $eore $eing $loc+ed) When the cro%d had"assed' I ran alongside in the sand( desert scr$ to tr( and get in ront again'$t a man on a motorc(cle motioned me to ho" on $ehind him and soon %e

%ere ;(ing along) >( hat "rom"tl( ;e% of into the charging stam"ede o t(children tr(ing to catch s and I gred it %as gone or goon)

9nce of the motorc(cle' the children %ere almost immediatel( on sagain and I %as sr"rised as one o them ran " and "resented m( hat tome! he renetic dance o streaming children' cele$rating 4inds' $laringmsic' and occasional dashes on the $ac+ o the motorc(cle contined ntil%e reached the main road and %here .al$ir and *san sat in the car'srronded $( red "ainted "eo"le) .al$ir %as having a time +ee"ing the +ids


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rom clim$ing " on the car and ever( time he o"ened the door' someone%old thro% in a handl o red "igment) When I nall( made it to the car and%e slo%l( got orselves ot o the mo$' he smiled ha""il( and said'


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2-7-2006 A00 am


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In one o the tem"les o the ancient >ahara#ahs or gide e,citedl(insisted %e go inside the +itchen)


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I gess m( mind goes to these isses $ecase o the hotel %eresta(ing in here in .i+aner) he Lallgarh alace is the "revios residence o a>arhara#ah and his amil( ntil onl( ve decades or so) he halls are vast andornate' the indoor "ool drained' the %alls covered %ith amil( "hotos o the>arhara#ahs amil( as %ell as do:ens o $ig game tro"hies the entire amil('men' %oman' and children have "rodl( slaghtered and hng %ithin thistime ca"sle o the t%enties and thirties) he $edroom %e are sta(ing in hasa ceiling arond t%ent( eet high and the room is hge) he dateddecorations go onl( as high as a normal room' giving the em"t( %hiteness

a$ove the eeling o $eing stretched "%ard at the last minte B *san sa(s itloo+s li+e the stage set o "la( %ith all the incongrit( o s"ace a$ove thearea that has $een staged or the actors) Fe% other "eo"le are here and theenormos hall%a(s echo %ith or ootste"s as %e %ander arond' rarel(seeing an(one else and it has a general eel o hanted neasiness)

.al$ir too+ s to a chea"er hotel in to%n %here %e ate on the rooto"overloo+ing the rather indstial cit() he ood %as good' n$elieva$l( chea"Qa$ot SJ total or ever(thingR' and there %as even g("s( dancers andmsicians) he rooto" %as cro%ded %ith the "eo"le sta(ing at the hotel'mostl( earth( Germans and French' %ho smo+ed and dran+ and even danced%ith the g("sies more than the( ate) We3ve had the $est e,"eriences atchea"er restarants .al$ir has sggested rather than at some o thee,"ensive torist restarants that are over"riced and sim"l( not as goodservice or ood)


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2-12-06 HA10 am

he old section o aisalmer is an ancient ortress %ithin a hge %all threemiles arond) O" on a hill its t%ist( streets and $ildings are mostl( stoneand it its $eat( is marred onl( $( the rec+less motorc(cles that hon+ ands"eed li+e +ami+a:es ever(%here) 9nl( the ""er t%o castes o Indians areallo%ed to o%n hoses %ithin the %alls& the( have the caste s(stem tomeasre %orth' %e have the dollar) 9ne o the great challenges o an(s(stem o societ( is the %a( it organi:es the levels o its "eo"le andconvinces the have-nots to acce"t their "lace at the $ottom' contine theiressential %or+ %ithot attac+ing the have-ever(things) We sa% rst hand%hile traveling in e"al a societ( that had $ecome s+e%ed %ith the ga"$et%een rich and "oor so e,treme that the social contract o caste %as

$rea+ing do%n into all-ot %arare and insrrection) he re$els callthemselves >aoists' thogh this is sim"l( the catch-all la$el that is otenchosen or a""lied $( those see+ing a $etter lie $( overthro%ing the s(stemthat enslaves them and redistri$ting the land and %ealth more eita$l( B%hich' i sccessl %ill sim"l( start the c(cle o %ealth and "o%erconsolidation all over again) *ch a dangeros im$alance %as %hat s"rredthe income ta, and estate ta, in or o%n contr() Dll societies "endlm$ac+ and orth $et%een this $alance o %ealth distri$tion and a s%ing tooar in either direction leads to colla"se o the societ()


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o%' here3s "eo"le %ho actall( %or+ or a living' com"ared to s la:( artistshave it eas( $t still nd time to com"lain!

re commnism is certainl( too "erect a s(stem to actall( %or+ %ithsch im"erect creatres as hmans) Dt the to"' "o%er corr"ts those incharge %ho start %or+ing more or themselves and their amilies than or thecollective good' and' at the $ottom' not ever(one %or+s as hard as ever(oneelse' casing the hard %or+ers to resent the la:( %or+ers %ho $enet romtheir la$ors) Withot the individal motivation o "ersonal $enet' ever(onesoon sim"l( does the minimm' leading to the necessar( se o orce tocom"el %or+' and evental totalitarianism)


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4ere3s some Indian3s harvesting their carell( cltivated s%eet "ees)

9nce the( have a e% $as+ets ll o "eas' the( %ill %al+ the ve miles to themar+et to sell it' then $ac+ home to contine the dail( chores o haling


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%ater' ertili:ing their elds %ith goat manre' etc) >ost o the arms here are$asicall( #st sand( desert soil -- %ithot the manre and %ater "m"ed "

rom ndergrond' arming %old $e im"ossi$le)

he $eat( o the Indian s(stem is that it ta+es into accont all ohmanities %ea+nesses' %hich is %h( it has endred or so man( millennia)For no%' at least' the caste s(stem still %or+s' thogh crac+s are $eginning atthe ringes as vie%s o the indstriali:ed West cree" in) *san and I tal+ed alot a$ot these contrasts' seeing the merits and detriments o $oth) Ideall('

the Onited *tates is considered a meritocrac(' %here the idea that an(one'no matter ho% lo%l( $orn can rise to the to" throgh their o%n talent andhard %or+) With ever(one having an eal o""ortnit( or sccess' this idealshold mean that the O* is dra%ing on a ar %ider "ool o talent than acontr( li+e India since it is %asting so man( "otential disons or insteins%ho are $orn in the lo%er casts %ith no chance to se their natral talents orthe good o all)

9h' I3m sre even venera$le Dl$ert had to have his nose %i"ed $( his mother!

9 corse' in "ractice' the Onited *tates does not ofer tre ealo""ortnit( to all) >one( is or caste s(stem and ensres that the %ealth(%ill have the $est edcation %hatever their talent or a$ilit() We a""ladorselves or the scholarshi"s and merit-$ased entr( s(stems to orniversities' $t $( that time' the efect o t%elve (ears o "reerentialtreatment in schooling has done its %or+ and some even se the "redicta$l(


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n$alanced test scores to


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4ere3s a sim"le illstration that even the illiterate can nderstand) It isillstrating the idea o the "reerred "ath o reincarnation or the "erson %ho

lives a good lie) I don3t +no%' sometimes I thin+ the ra$$it might not have itall that $ad& ma($e #st or a co"le o (ears at least it %old $e nice to

rela,)


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4ere3s a traditional 4ind marriage I came across %hile ot driving inthe contr(side %ith .al$ir) he( %ere so e,cited to have a oreigner sho% "as it %as considered a good omen or the co"le) he( as+ed me to "ose %ith

the co"le or a "hotogra"h)

2-1@-06 7A@0 am

8esterda( %as intense) .oth *san and I %ere e,hasted rom theconstant e,"loring and traveling so too+ the morning to sim"l( s+etch $( the"ool in the hotel' thin+ing it %as the one "lace %e %old $e let alone) *oon%e had the hotel staf cro%ded arond s' %atching me dra% the to%er o theFort a#%ada Qconverted to the hotelR and *san dra%ing a "rintot o a"hotogra"h o a little girl) *san reall( hates "eo"le %atching her dra% and is

ncomorta$le in general $eing the center o attention o "eo"le she doesnt+no%' $t ho% can (o tell "eo"le as s%eet as the hotel staf that (o #st%ant some alone time) his seemed to $e the theme o the da( or *san)

he things she thoght %old $e diclt or her' the ood' the roads' the$egging' havent $een mch o an isse' $t the thing that has mostsr"rised s more than an(%here else %eve traveled has $een the otrightattention %e receive!


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>an( o the "eo"le %e met had never even seen a "hotogra"h othemselves' so seeing themselves on *san3s video camera screen %as a

%onder)

ver(%here %e go' "eo"le sim"l( sto"' trn and stare at s' otentimeschatting and giggling among themselves as the( "oint and dont even tr( anddisgise the act that the( are discssing s li+e some msem artiact thatisnt alive) I %e sto" to rest' %e %ill almost immediatel( have a cro%d o"eo"le srronding s %ithin eet' literall( $loc+ing or vie% o ever(thingli+e some hman-%alled isolation cham$er) *san once too+ ot her m$rellaand lo%ered it over hersel to tr( and $loc+ hersel of' $t ever(one sim"l(got do%n on their +nees to "eer arond and nder the im"ediment to theircriosit() eo"le toch or arms' or clothes' hats' and are geninel(sr"rised %hen %e ma+e it clear that %e dont a""reciate this) 8esterda( atthe camel air in the sand dnes' several %oman o the ""er' .rahmin class%ere standing in ront o *san' staring' discssing' and laghing at her) *heconronted them' +no%ing the( "ro$a$l( s"o+e nglish' %hich the( did' andthe( instantl( a"ologi:ed "rosel(' ma+ing it ver( a""arent that the( hadnteven reali:ed someone might $e ofended $( sch $ehavior)


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he attention doesnt $other me mch) In man( %a(s' it ma+es iteasier to ta+e "hotos since it seems a air e,change B me staring at them and

the( at me B than i I %as invading their s"ace alone) he main diclt( orme is that ever(one is so e,cited to get their "hoto ta+en that I tend to getcro%ds o "eo"le tr(ing to %ave me over to have me ta+e their "hotos' their"arents "hoto' their co% or goats "hotos' etc) >an( times I am so ocsedon %hat I am shooting that I dont even notice the cro%ds loo+ing at s ntil*san "oints it ot to me) I I am $( m(sel' I am the central attraction' $t iIm %ith *san' she is ar more interesting to ever(one than I' no do$t$ecase o her light s+in' $lond hair' and $eat() ver(one as+s or age' areshoc+ed at ho% old %e are' and even more shoc+ed that %e dont havechildren) .ecase o the harshness o lie here' the climate' and the man(children %oman have' most "eo"le or age loo+ t%ent( (ears older than s)

he occasional gides %e have o the tem"les continall( sa('


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9+' I3ll admit I3m not older than this %oman' $t I3d $et she3s still(onger than I3d gess rom #st loo+ing at the %ondros character lie has

etched onto her ace)

4eres a co"le o other things that #m" ot at one) >en %al+ing handin hand' cddling together ever(%here and la(ing arms and legs ent%ined B itdoesnt seem to $e a se,al thing' $t an e,"ression o dee" riendshi"Qthere are even la%s against homose,alit( hereR) 8o %ill never see a manand a %oman +iss in "$lic or even in a 4indi movie or N sho%' or thatmatter) o%s ever(%here! he( %ill la( do%n in the middle o the $sieststreet and case a trac #am) heir revered stats is $alanced $( the actthat the( mostl( eat gar$age' mch o the "lastic the( ingest eventall(+illing them) >a+e sre to have ear "lgs hand( at all times!


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olor' color' and more color!

In the aternoon %e had lnch on a rooto" in to%n and then %ent to asilver sho" .al$ir +ne% o that %as #st on the third ;oor o someones hosein a t("ical neigh$orhood otside the orts %alls) he hose %as the home o

three $rothers and their amilies B %ives' children' "arents' grand"arents)Li+e ever( single hose in India' it loo+ed li+e it %as in the midst o either$eing dismantled or $ilt) eo"le add on to their hoses as the( get the

mone(' so there are "iles o r$$le ever(%here' and hal constrcted %alls onto" o ever( $ilding) I (o get enogh mone( to add a e% corses o $ric+s'

then (o do so immediatel( rather than %aiting till (ove saved enogh tocom"lete the entire "ro#ect)


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9n a %ide mat on the ;oor %here ever(one no do$t sle"t' the$rothers dm"ed ot large +ettles lled %ith silver o$#ects' ma+ing it seem

li+e Dladdin3s cave ater "ile "on "ile o treasre a""eared) *san "ic+ed otsome nec+laces' $racelets' and earrings that cost a$ot a orth %hat the(%old an(%here else) I loved the intricate %or+manshi" o ever(thing' $tsince this %as merel( manal la$or' %hich costs almost nothing here'ever(thing %as "riced $( the %eight o the silver content %ithot regard tothe artistr() In the O*' the "rices %old have $een so mch higher $ecase othe %or+manshi" and artistic content)


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Con3t (o thin+ a little $it o m(ster( adds something to the %orld?.i+inis are nice' $t the( do get a $it monotonos ater a %hile)

hen %e headed ot to the *and Cnes or the last da( o the estival)he rolling dnes %ith all the camels and "eo"le %as s"ectaclar) he sn%as intense and %al+ing " and do%n the to%ering dnes e,hasting! *san%as a main attraction and is in isolation in the room right no% doing a s+etchso she can $e #st a normal "erson or a change! ven this small taste ocontinal attention ever(%here one goes ma+es me reali:e ho% horri$le it%old $e to $e a movie star or "olitician) I thin+ i *san had to deal %ith itor too mch longer she %old sim"l( e,"lode or $ecome a ver( angr("erson)


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Enolded in olorE India' oil @JE $( 2JE $( *cott .rdic+


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ELittle CancerE India' oil 50E $( 2JE


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Eolors o the CesertE India' oil' @6E $( 60E $( *cott .rdic+

Eamel aceE aislamer Cesert Festival- India

20 $( @0 oil - *san L(on


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ver(one is %atching a camel race o the men o the village) It too+ a$ot anhor to com"lete' %hich %as "erect or ta+ing "hotos as ever(one %as so

intent on the race' the( hardl( noticed me)

EWatching the amel aceE India' oil J6E $( 2JE - *cott .rdic+


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Eamel iderE India' oil 11E $( 1JE - *cott .rdic+

2-1J-06 AJ0 >

Were in the D#it .ha%an 4otel in odh"r' a $eatil "lace %ith littlestone cottages or rooms' a raised "ool and %inding "ath%a(s throgh %hatseems li+e an endless garden) We trn on the N and several o the Indianchannels have a na+ed gr sitting cross-legged on a rotating lots that loo+s

more li+e a hge teac" rom a Cisne(land ride) he teac" rotates slo%l(arond and arond as the nclothed hol( man dis"enses his %isdom to aseated cro%d o hndreds' themselves demrel( dressed in %hite %ith "lateso ood in ront o them)


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.al$irs older $rother is JJ and is also a driver in Celhi' $t or adiferent com"an() 4is $rother has or girls' the oldest o %hich is married)Finall( someone %ith girls! I as+ed .al$ir i his niece is married to someone inCelhi and he instantl( said' no' that %old $e %a( too e,"ensive! We areconsed at this and he e,"lains that his $rother mst "a( a $ride "rice tothe hs$and to get him to marr( his daghter and the "rice to marr( a Celhigroom %old $e %a( too mch or the daghter o a driver so she has $eenmarried to a armer in their home village' %hich costs mch less) I %onderho% ha""( a girl %ho has $een $roght " in Celhi is to marr( a armer in avillage in the montains %ithot even a single road and %here no one evens"ea+s 4indi) he $ride "rice is (et one more incentive to have $o(s' $t %earent reall( that ar rom this "ractice %ith the tradition o the %ies "arents

"a(ing or the %edding)


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Dll I have to sa( is that or the amont o %or+ Indian %omen do' it isite a deal having them "a( the groom as %ell!

.al$irs ll name is .al$ir *ingh havhan) .al$ir is his given name'*ingh is the name all a#"ts have' and havhan is his caste) here are soman( divisions and s$ divisions o caste' that .al$ir cannot even cont themall) .al$irs (ongest $rother is #st eighteen and still in school at his "arentsvillage home and he also has t%o sisters %ho are $oth married %ith children).al$ir seems trl( ama:ed %hen I tell him that there isnt mch o a

"reerence in general or $o(s over girls in the Onited *tates and that most"eo"les ideal "ro$a$l( %old $e or $oth a $o( and girl rather than all $o(s)

eading


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9n television' on( .lair chides 4go have: or aligning himsel %ithan


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he t("ical Indian +itchen in this area is otside)

his amil( +indl( made s some >asala tea)


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What most o these isses come do%n to is greed) hose %ho have'natrall( tr( to hold onto %hat the( have and to acire more' sing the"o%er o their %ealth to give themselves s"ecial $rea+s that the lessortnate dont have) Within a cont( these ta+e the orm o ta, $rea+s thatonl( the %ealth( can ta+e advantage o B ta, $rea+s on a home mortgage'investment income' estate ta,es' etc) hose %ho are too "oor to o%n ahose' to invest in "ro"ert( or stoc+s or other things that increase %ealththrogh so called an( villagers had looms right in their (ards %here the( %or+ed mosto the da( and even into the night)


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ro"ert( ta,es' gradated income ta,es' and the state a, %ere allinstitted in the Onited *tates to com$at this natral tendenc( or %ealth and"o%er to accmlate in the hands o the e% %ho alread( have it at thee,"ense o those %ho dont $eore an Dristocrac( cold s$vert Cemocrac() Itis a diclt $alance to stri+e' since going too ar in the other direction' associalism does' ta+es a%a( the "rot motive and (o degenerate into as(stem li+e earl( hinese and ssian ommnism) Let things drit too ar inthe other direction and (o get an e,treme Dristocrac( li+e e"al and "re-evoltionar( France' %ith the ga" $et%een rich and "oor gro%ing to the

"oint o e,"losive read#stment) he Onited *tates avoided sch a colla"se inthe earl( "art o the last centr( %ith the ado"tion o the "rogressive ta,es Imentioned earlier and %as oght des"eratel( $( the rich ro$$er $arons%hom the( %ere aimed at)


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his village %as close to a good sorce o cla( so most o the villagersmade "otter( to sell to stores in the cities) otice the ingenios se o the

trc+ tire' %hich the ather had monted to the grond and got s"inning %itha stic+) he momentm %as enogh or him to com"lete several little $o%ls

$eore it sto""ed)

9nce the(3ve $een dried' the children "aint the designs on them)

In e"al' the e,istence o a rling aristocrac( is o$vios and e,treme'$t sch a s(stem is slo%l( ta+ing hold in or contr( as %ell) he common$elie most Dmericans hold is that the richer (o are the higher "ercentageo ta, (o "a(& again the


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rom


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she see:ed "assed it in the cloc+ to%er mar+et this aternoon) he smellso animal and hman %aste' rotting ood' and diesel mes ma+e it hard tota+e $eing otside or too long) ver( restarant is lled %ith hndreds o;ies and %e %ere so ha""( to get $ac+ to the hotel as the heat $ecamen$eara$le and ta+e a di" in the "ool and revel in or $eatil oasis) hecloc+ to%er mar+et is sim"l( incredi$le! Dn e,"losion o color' animals' noise'smells' and $eat(& $t im"ossi$le to ta+e or more than an hor or t%o)

E*elling otter(E India' oil 16E $( 20E - *cott .rdic+

Well' $ac+ to reading the "a"er' %atching the 9l(m"ics' and #m"ingat the occasional lod $ang as a $om$ connects %ith some nseen target #stotside the cit() Dma:ing to have a $om$ing range #st otside o the secondlargest cit( in ah#astan!


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I cold do an entire $oo+ on the nn( signs %e3ve seen in India) st so(o +no%' %e never did tr( to em$arrass an(one $( reesting ree entr()

Dlso visited a tem"le devoted to %orshi"ing rats' $elieve it or not!.ecase it is sacred' (o have to remove (or shoes %hile in the tem"le and%al+ing on the la(er o dro""ings) eo"le "ra(ed to the rats and gave themoferings o ood) ats %ere literall( ever(%here' hanging rom door%a(s'

scrr(ing across the ;oor and even over (or eet) *san sta(ed in the car'$t ater I came to en#o( %atching the little g(s ater a %hile) Dt least the(

%eren3t li+e the giant monsters %e call rats in hicago -- no% those %erescar(!

2-17-06 5AJ5 "m

We are in Odai"r and have $een ver( im"ressed at ho% clean andorderl( the cit( is' at least in com"arison to the rest o India) For several(ears this area had $een in a severe droght %ith the >onsoons ailingaltogether and the large la+es that are so essential and $eatil to the cit(had com"letel( dried ") .t there has $een rain the last e% (ears and thela+es have $een restored to their s"lendor) Dll the gide $oo+s li+e


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We "assed do:ens o these "rimitive irrigation s(stems' $ilt " onmonds o dirt and roc+' %ith the o,en going rond and rond most o theda(' carr(ing %ater " to a canal that then goes ot to the armer3s elds)


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hese are #st rec(cled cans that ll %ith %ater at the $ottom and thendm" ot at the to") D$ot as sim"le as (o can get' $t it does the #o$

%ithot an( gasoline' electricit(' or motors)

oda(s theme seemed to $e religion and caste) his morning %e %entto a village %here the government $rings in artists' crats"eo"le' dancers'and msician rom all over the cont( or torists to see) ach amil( lives inthe village or t%o %ee+s and then is re"laced $( another amil() 9r gide%as rom a village #st a e% mintes a%a( and he %as onl( %or+ing since it

%as *nda() 4ed %or+ed here or ten (ears $t recentl( nished niversit(and is no% a ll time teacher in his village) We as+ed i he %as married andhe said that hed $een married or eight (ears and had a daghter' $t thensadl( mentioned that he %as rom the .rahmin class Q%hich is the highestRand that hed had a girlriend rom a lo%er caste that hed loved and %antedto marr(' $t nall( gave in to the "ressre rom his amil( and #st a$otever(one in his village to have an arranged marriage %ithin his o%n classQD$ot 70 "ercent o marriages in India are arranged $( the "arents and the*nda( ne%s"a"er is lled %ith advertisements or $rides and grooms' listingclass' age' height' "roession' dar+ness o s+in' etc)R he deciding actor %asthe threat that his sister might $e harmed and that no one %old ever marr(her i he disgraced the amil( $( marr(ing otside his caste) his is no idle

threat here' since ever( da( the ne%s"a"ers are lled %ith stories o thesisters and even mothers o $o(s %ho marr( otside their caste $eing ra"edand even mrdered as retri$tion or their $rothers indiscretions) Ds he tolds o this' the "ain %as o$vios even ater eight (ears) 4e said that his %ie%as a lovel( girl and an e,cellent %ie& thogh it %as o$vios he didnt loveher and he admitted to still occasionall( calling the girl he loved' %ho %asalso married)


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Ds %e %al+ed arond and $oght some "aintings and other %or+s romthe man( artists' %e came to a gro" o msicians and dancers) I noticed that

one o the dancers e,"ression $ecame tight and angr( as she loo+ed at orgide' %ho %oldnt meet her ga:e) Dter the "erormance' I as+ed him a$otthis and he sr"rised me %ith his candor as he admitted she %as a relative othe girl hed loved $t had to a$andon $ecase o her lo%er caste) otsr"risingl(' %eve ond that those at the lo%er end o the caste s(stemhere %ish or it to end and those at the to" generall( thin+ it is sim"l(ordained $( the gods) I as+ed .al$ir i he thoght the caste s(stem %oldever change in India and he %as certain it never %old) Dt rst I %assr"rised at this' ntil I remem$ered that the caste s(stem isnt #st a socials(stem' $t an integral "art o the 4ind religion) eo"le trl( $elieve that(o are $orn into (or caste $ased on (or "ast actions and that (o %ill onl(move " i (o live %ell in this lie)


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.eore (o are too dismissive o this s(stem' its im"ortant to reali:esome o or o%n ver( caste-li+e ideas on marriage sch as marr(ing %ithin a"articlar religion' race' economic class' etc) 9ne o or riends rom ortharolina once told me that she cold never marr( an(one %ho %asnt a


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hristian) I one trl( $elieves in (or religion' %h( shold it $e sr"risingthat (o coldnt marr( someone %ho didnt agree %ith sch a ndamental"art o (or lie? .t then I as+ed her i she cold marr( an Drican Dmerican%ho %as a hristian) *he hesitated and said she didnt thin+ shed have a"ro$lem %ith it' $t %oldnt do so $ecase her "arents %old $e against it'adding that the( %erent "re#diced' ho%ever' and that it %as onl( $ecaseo the cltral diferences) .t I "ointed ot to her that shed $een dating ahristian $o( rom another contr( %ho the( had no o$#ection to and thecltral diferences mst have $een even more severe than an Drican

Dmerican $o() *he agreed that %as tre' $t #st coldnt e,"lain it) Ontilver( recentl( in or contr(3s histor(' interracial marriage %as even illegal inman( "laces) Dll o s have or "re#dices' inclding the o""ressed minoritiesthemselves' thogh its al%a(s easier to see all $t or o%n and I certainl(inclde m(sel in this) 9nl( $( constantl( estioning and searching can (oidenti( those shortcomings %ithin (orsel and reach a greater level onderstanding) st thin+ing a$ot all o the misconce"tions I had a$ot thisone contr( and ho% traveling here has altered m( "erce"tions ishm$ling) he more %e learn' the more ignorant %e +no% orselves to $e)


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4ere3s a corner o to%n that armers $ring in ha( each da( that "eo"le$( to eed to their co%s)


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E*elling 4a( in Odai"rE India' oil' @0E $( 20E - *san L(on


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10A@0 "m

Wo%' sa% a antastic dance "rogram at the Indian ltral 4eritage >semat the Gangar Ghat in Odai"r' then had a n dinner on the rooto" at theestarant atral it( Nie%' %here the( sho%ed the ames .ond lm'9cto"ss(' %hich %as lmed here in Odai"r) What a antastic last da( inOdai"r !


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2-21-06 A00 D>

Fle% to .om$a( (esterda( Qociall( >om$a(' thogh most here inIndia still reer to it $( the old' .ritish name)R We did have a cit( torschedled' $t decided to cancel it since $oth o s %ere ver( tired and thecom$ination o heat and the continos trac #am here didnt a""eal) Ds inmost "laces' the driver cationed s not to %al+ arond on the streets asthe( %ere too dangeros' %hich %e ignored as sal and %ent or several%al+s and it is ite as sae as an( cit( in the O*) o co%s' goats' or +-+shere' and one eels less li+e the( are in India as all modern cities loo+ somch ali+e)

9r riend >ilind >li+ htt"A//%%%)milindmlic+)com/ is having a sho%o his %onderl %atercolors in *%eden in t%o da(s and is nortnatel(rnning into last minte visa diclties so hasnt $een a$le to leave thecontr( (et) 4e as+ed i he might have three (ong artists come $( to meets and %e said %ed love to meet them and see their %or+) he( met s atthe Leao"old aT a co"le $loc+s rom or hotel and %e loo+ed throgh their%or+) It trned ot that one o the artists' iran#an *) >hamane had even e-mailed s a e% times and %ed loo+ed at his "aintings that %a() iran#an hadalread( gradated the ve (ear "rogram at the art school and the other t%oartists' Ddit(a C) *hir+e and >+ta D) Dvanchat %ere in their nal (ear) he(all had $oo+lets %ith their %or+ and the( %ere antastic! he( reminded meso mch o or gro" at the Dmerican Dcadem( and the alette and hisel
http://www.milindmulick.com/http://www.milindmulick.com/


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and their "aintings %ere even more advanced than I had $een %hen their agethat Im so e,cited to see %hat the tre %ill hold or them and their %or+)

Ddit(a C) *hir+e


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>+ta D) Dvanchat


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oincidentall(' each o their athers %ere engineers and the( said thattheir school %as ver( ine,"ensive since it %as s"onsored $( the government)

he( "ainted ve da(s a %ee+s or ve hors rom the onl( t%o models theschool em"lo(ed) he( %ere niversall( tired o "ainting the same t%omodels or ve (ears! his $eing India' it %asnt allo%ed to "aint ndes'%hich is interesting to s in a "lace %here (o constantl( see "eo"le stri" oftheir clothes in "$lic to $athe) he( %ere ver( ins"ired $( ichard *chmids"aintings and all had his latest $oo+) he( lamented ho% little o a mar+etthere %as or realism in India since most o the $ig name "ainters %ere

modern and a$stract) In man( %a(s it seemed that their art mar+et %asa$ot t%ent( (ears $ehind the O* and reminded me so mch o %hen %enished art school and ond so e% galleries interested in or %or+) helein Dir revoltion and resrgence o realism %eve seen in Dmerica %ill nodo$t $e hitting here as %ell ver( soon) Its ama:ing to see rst hand theim"act o the internet in the %a( these stdents are sing it to learn romartists the( never %old have $een a$le to std( %ith) It ma+es me thin+ oall the e-mails %e receive rom #st a$ot ever( contr( arond the glo$e)


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iran#an *) >hamanehis e-mail is [email protected]

I don3t have e-mail addresses or >+ta or Ddit(a' $t iran#an %ill $e a$le to"t an(one in contact %ith them) I3m sre (o3ll $e seeing their %or+ in the

tre!
mailto:[email protected]:[email protected]


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some o the "hotos rom India) What %ere ama:ingl( interesting scenes to s%ere common"lace to them' %hich made s lagh) When I sho%ed themsome "hotos rom i$et' the( oohed and ahhed in %onder and %e e,"lainedto them that %as or reaction to India #st as mch as i$et) We told them oor ears o coming to India and ho% so man( o or riends and relativesthogh %e %ere cra:( to "t orselves into sch danger)


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9r driver %as sot-s"o+en %ith the sal mstache man( %ear here'thogh his constant monotone recitation o acts o the cit( and the $ildings'com$ined %ith his heav( accent tended to ma+e (o drit of a $it) 4e "rodl("ointed ot


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.ac+ at the hotel' the "a"er is lled %ith con;icts driven $( religion) D>slim Indian minister ofers a re%ard to an(one %ho $eheads the cartoonist

in Cenmar+ %ho made n o >ohamed) here are also man( >slims %ho%rite into the "a"er s""orting ree s"eech and decr(ing the violence andcall or the death o the cartoonist' $t' as al%a(s' the ront "ages aredominated $( the e,tremists and the commentators even have the gall tocritici:e >slims as a %hole or not


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he ho"e o the tre)

eligion seems to $ring ot $oth the $est and the %orst o "eo"le) hemost stri+ing thing a$ot all the religions %eve seen ever(%here %e travel isthe de"th %ith %hich ever(one is so certain that their %a( is the one and onl(right %a() >an( missionar( gro"s go ot to India and hina and all over the%orld rom the chrches arond s in orth arolina and I remem$er oneman telling me %ith indignation ho% some o the local religios leaders insome contr( tried "reventing them rom "reaching in their village) I as+edhim %hat he %old do i >slims or 4inds or .ddhists tried "reaching in histo%n and he immediatel( said the( %old a$soltel( not "ermit it) 4e said

that there %as no contradiction in this since he %as re"resenting the one andtre God and the others %ere sim"l( delded and on the "ath to 4ell) When(o are so certain a$ot something so im"ortant' it is inconceiva$le totolerate disagreement and this is the $asic root o most o the religioscon;icts I see all a$ot me)

4istor( is lled %ith sch con;icts and the $rie moments and "laces%here tolerance ond a %a( or "eo"le o diferent aiths to live side $( sidetogether are rare) 9 all the things %e have in the Onited *tates' the thing Immost "rod o is this tolerance) Lets ho"e it contines and s"reads Q$(e,am"le rather than orce)R India is one o the (ongest democracies o theWorld' ater all' so %e sholdnt #dge it $( the standards o %here %e are

ater hndreds o (ears o develo"ment) he "ro$lems and "re#dices hereagainst %oman and minorit( gro"s %old "ale in com"arison to or o%ncontr( onl( t( (ears ater its onding' ater all)


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han+ (o' India' or rene%ing m( ins"iration -- I can3t %ait to gethome and "aint!

*ince "tting " or India #ornal' %e3ve gotten a lot o e-mails rom artistsreesting "ermission to "aint rom the "hotogra"hs) I reali:e there is no %a(to sto" an(one rom "ainting rom them' #st as an(one can "aint romsomething "$lished in a maga:ine' $t I %old strongl( encorage (o to%or+ rom (or o%n "hotogra"hs and models $ecase that is ho% (o gro%as an artist and e,"ress (or o%n individalit() Drt is a$ot seeing the %orldthrogh someone else3s e(es and choosing (or s$#ect and com"osition' as%ell as e,"eriencing it rst ha

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