The second edition of Vicenzaoro Dubai from April 14-17 consolidated its position as an important international gold and jewellery trade show in the Middle Eastern region. Shanoo Bijlani reports.

Yvel Jewelry

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he second edition of Vicenzaoro Dubai (VOD) was organised in Dubai between April 14 and 17, 2016, by DV Global Link, a joint venture between Fiera di Vicenza (FDV) and the Dubai World Trade Centre (DWTC).

The VOD show has been conceived to offer a strategic platform to enable key players in the trade to enter new markets that have an appetite for high-end, designer jewellery. Moreover, the show also showcases new jewellery trends from the global industry. Dubai, one of the major world capitals of luxury goods consumption, has a deep-rooted tradition in gold and jewellery trading, and is a central gateway to areas such as the Middle East, Africa, India, the CSI countries, Central and Southern Asia.

The second edition of VOD involved 21 key partners and dealers from the Dubai Jewellery Community. The show also had the support of important strategic partners, such as the Dubai Multi Commodity Center (DMCC), Dubai Gold & Jewellery Group (DGJG), L’Azurde, and the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), India.

Over 10,400 international operators, buyers and visitors from 107 countries, including the four strategic markets the

Middle East, Eurasia, North and East Africa, and Central and Southern Asia, attended the four-day fair that housed over 400 brands from Italy, India, UAE, Turkey, Hong Kong, Belgium, KSA, Greece, Thailand, USA, Spain, China, United Kingdom, Germany, Switzerland, France, Japan, Singapore, Taiwan, South Korea, Lebanon and Jordan. For easy navigation on the show floor, the sections were divided into Global Brands, Fine Jewellery & National Pavilions, Gemstones & Diamonds, Packaging & Supply.

There was a strong presence of exhibitors to represent the best of Made in Italy brand, thanks to the effective collaboration with the Italian ministry for economic development, which, through the Italian Trade Agency (ICE), organised the coordinated presence of the Italian pavilion.

The show was inaugurated by director general of the Government of Dubai media office, Her Excellency Mona Al Marri in the presence of His Excellency Helal Al Marri, director general of tourism & commerce marketing and director general of the Dubai World Trade Centre Authority.

The opening was also attended by T.P. Seetharam, Indian ambassador, Liborio Stellino, ambassador of Italy to the UAE,

Paola de Luca presented market trends at a seminar.Her Excellency Mona Al Marri, director general of the Government of Dubai Media Office, inaugurated the second edition of VOD.

Dignitaries and key partners of VOD at the inauguration.

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Ahmed Al Khaja, senior vice president - venues, DWTC, Tawhid Abdullah, chairman of Dubai Gold and Jewellery Group, Mansoor Al Thani, chairman of DV Global Link, Trixie Loh Mirmand, senior vice president, DWTC, Giampaolo Bruno, Italian Trade Commissioner, Matteo Marzotto, president of FDV, Corrado Facco, managing director of FDV and vice-chairman of DV Global Link, Emanuele Guido, general manager of DV Global Link and other notable figures.

At the inaugural press conference, Corrado Facco, commented: “The VOD project has found an ideal opportunity to nurture and grow the show and offer the international industry a new and strategic gateway for the world jewellery trade. We are very pleased with the results of this second edition, because at a time when there are fluctuations in the global market, the show has allowed us to connect some of the industry’s most prestigious players with buyers from regions with high potential. This ability to set up business relations and to provide and share top-quality content, has confirmed VOD’s position as a new platform of excellence, able to open new business paths for Made in Italy”.

Matteo Marzotto added: “Vicenzaoro Dubai 2016 has confirmed the great potential and effectiveness of this new business hub dedicated to world jewellery, thanks to the network of unique relations and know-how that FDV and the DWTC have put in place, together with other expert partners.

“VOD has been set up at one of the major crossroads of world luxury, with the aim of creating a bridge between the manufacturers of top-ranking, value-added jewels and the new international demand for high-end jewellery. This, in particular, is an opportunity for Italian jewellery, which continues to excel, thanks to its blend of aesthetic quality, creativity and craftsmanship. In Dubai, Made in Italy did not just present its extraordinary collections to expert international buyers, it also showcased its expertise in creating a system to enhance the industry at global levels," he concluded.

The GJEPC, in its effort to cater to the rapidly emerging Middle East gems and jewellery market, once again organised the India Pavilion at this year's VOD. There were 66 leading exhibitors from India spread across 90 booths who showcased their latest designer collections.

At the press conference, GJEPC chairman Praveenshankar Pandya said, “India’s central role as the sourcing centre for diamonds and precious stone jewellery is renowned worldwide. For years, traders and visitors to India have enjoyed our jewellery craftsmanship, quality, design and cost efficiency, and we are happy to bring the source to Dubai, the most promising destination for the gemstones and jewellery trade in recent times.

“For India, total gross exports to the Middle East last year accounted for $12.32 billion or 31% of the total gems and jewellery exports from the country. It is thus imperative to explore

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opportunities to nurture international trade relations, at VOD the most apt gateway to the Middle East and the world.

“Fiera di Vicenza and Dubai World Trade Centre are two leading organisations that are committed to the growth of the gems and jewellery industry which is in line with the GJEPC’s vision. This association will help in further improving and strengthening the trade in the Middle East, an important gem & jewellery destination for India.”

New offeringsVOD is fast gaining a reputation for showcasing ingenious creativity of exhibiting companies representing various countries.

GIE Gold Creations, Jaipur, had specially made four collections based on various aspects of Jaipur, namely, Dwarpal (fort doors), Bandhej (tie-and-dye textile), Mayura (peacock), and Rajasi (inspired by City Palace). Ankit Lodha, founder of the company, said, “We have concentrated on rings and earrings by incorporating special bead work, transparent enamels, and matted pearl work that forms the base of some jewels over which we have set gems for three-dimensional effect. The jewels look grand but have been scaled down to size to deem them fit for daily or party wear.”

Yvel’s president, Isaac Levy, made a pertinent point: “In order to be successful in a world of similarities, you need to be different in a competitive market. We present a totally different look and it comes from a different perspective making sure we showcase different designs, innovation and creativity. The Basel show was pretty successful for us, but for some reason people from the Arab countries did not show in numbers there. So, we decided to bring Basel to Dubai!”

Levy said that the market was still very receptive to baroque pearls because according to him nature is not about perfection. “I believe in texturing jewellery as I am a nature-follower. We have to jewellery organic as the world is headed in that direction. Flashy is not in. South Sea pearls, Keshi and Kasumiga pearls and a whole range of natural sapphires has been doing well for us for the last few years.” Displaying the latest abstract version of the peacock collection, Levy said that the collection was studded with

green and white bi-colour tanzanite. His design philosophy is simple: “I don’t try to make a sale. Instead, we, at Yvel, dress up women because we know what’s right for them. Jewellery should never be in your face. It has to be admired from the fashion point of view.”

Itan Jewels, a leading jewellery manufacturer based out of Dubai and Mumbai, India, did good business and buyers from Dubai and the surrounding regions evinced interest in their new creations of broad cuffs, manchettes and bangles inspired by henna patterns and hand-painted enamelling.

Show reactions Exhibitors were happy to get queries from serious buyers, but they also said that a new show, especially a business-to-business fair in a new region takes time to take off. Mustafa Kamar, CEO of Istanbul-based Roberto Bravo jewellery brand, said that they were participating in the fair for the first time. “It’s a new show and

Luca Carati

Itan Jewels

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when there are simpler versions of such genre being made by many other manufacturers.”

Indian retailers informed that over all fusion jewellery (a mix of Indo-Western templates) was in demand from retailers in Dubai and the nearby regions. Pankaj Kodnani of Vida Jewellers said that yellow gold jewellery in 21-karat did well, while buyers preferred 22-karat gold in different shades like pinkish grey and rose gold. The company’s handmade jewellery with three-dimensional elements was popular with buyers from Saudi Arabia and Egypt.

Other highlightsOn the sidelines of the show, Trendvision Jewellery + Forecasting organised two seminars, “Product directions for 2016-2017”. The seminar presented by Paola de Luca highlighted trends in the consumer attitudes and trends in the international luxury market. “Fashion is a reflection of our lifestyle,” Paola said, adding that it was an era of consumers. “Digital era gives powers to consumers and we should communicate with clients through the digital media. We should also have the foresight and understand which market we want to cater to.”

She also noted that global brands are going democratic and outlined four types of consumers: The New Thinker is a minimalist and believes in the concept of understated luxury. Such a consumer prefers layering, lot of geometry and celebrates local crafts. The Retronaut has a passion for history and art and prefers bold jewellery with coloured diamonds and coloured gold or blackened metal. Lace and ornate floral designs reflect her taste. The Geonaut is a globetrotter and has an eclectic taste so she collects pieces from all over the world. Preferring coloured pieces, she is the one to go for front and back earrings, asymmetrical or mismatched earrings, two-finger rings and the like. The Illusionist is tech-savvy and loves futuristic pieces with emoticons that are hinged on innovation.

On the first day of the show, the organisers gave away the VOD Jewellery Celebration Award to honour key industry stalwarts in the region who have contributed to define the image of Dubai as the capital of gold and jewellery. The award recipients were Tawhid Abdullah, president of DGJG, Ahmed Bin Sulayem, executive president of the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre, Amit Dhamani, CEO of Dhamani, Shamlal Ahmad MP, CEO - international operations of the Malabar Group, Siroya Chandra Prakash, vice president of the Dubai Gold and Jewellery Group, Vinmalidas Dhakan, founder of National Jeweller, and Harshad Mehta, founder of 7Cs Group / Rosy Blue Dubai.

The awards ceremony was followed by a catwalk show of jewellery spotlighting the exhibitors in the Global Brands community.

The show also saw the launch of the first New Jeweller VOD International Jewellery Conclave during which association representatives from Sri Lanka, Thailand, Jordan and Oman spoke about their respective jewellery industries and the prospects of doing business with their countries.

we have to give it some time to establish itself firmly on the map of jewellery trade shows around the world. We have a strong base in the Middle East, CIS countries and Eastern Europe, and we are sure that VOD will stand the test of time.”

Mansukh Kothari, proprietor, Vasupati Jewellers, Mumbai, stated that he fared better than last year. He specialises in 22-karat bridal jewellery for modern brides featuring traditional crafts.

Dr Nawal Agarwal, founder of Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers, Jaipur, informed that he was happy with the queries from Dubai, Egypt, Australia, Cairo, the Middle East and Pakistan. However, he also said that new formats should not be judged by their performance as it takes at least three to four years for buyers to recognise it as a solid platform for sourcing and networking. “Since the last two or three years, we have veered towards high-end collection in the kundan-meena genre and customers from these regions do take time to understand the product, especially

Yvel Jewelry

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VOD Design CornerAn exclusive pavilion was dedicated to display the works of local, independent designers from various countries including Saudi Arabia, in collaboration with L’Azurde and Collection magazine, the governments of China and the UAE and leading jewellers like Swaralmj Jewelry, Tebr Jewellery, Kaina Jewels, Hongxu Guo, Yi Jin Mei Xing Jewellery and Hu Juan Juan. Notably, for the first time at VOD, local designers were able to show their creations to trade buyers.

Suzzane Eid, managing editor of Collection magazine said, “VOD came up with this new concept to help upcoming designers and give them a chance to meet the jewellery community from all over the world. We went to China, Japan, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain and Hong Kong to select designers, who would have ready inventory to exhibit outside their country. The designers in the pavilion have a mix of fine and fashion jewellery, classic or ultra- modern lines, and they have got a very good response.”

One of the participants, Sara Almjaiwel of Swaralmj Jewelry, Saudi Arabia, started her line three years ago. Her collections were based on stories or concepts and crafted in gold and silver studded with diamonds or mother-of-pearl. Her Kofi line in 18-karat gold was an abstract rendition of Arabic letters spelling out one’s name set with or without diamonds. The Me and You collection in white gold was contrasted with diamond and mother-of-pearl depicting the coming together of two souls. The third prêt collection was

The necklace is composed with unheated amethyst chips in jadau setting. The 22-karat yellow gold necklace is accented with diamonds. By Jyoti Anand

The 18-karat yellow gold ring focuses on a carved pear-shaped sapphire with a shank shimmering with diamonds and pave-set rubies. The earrings in 18-karat yellow gold feature pear-cut sapphires suspended from ruby chips with milgrain finish. By Jyoti Anand

The necklace (above) with Arabic names from the Kofi collection and the Me and You collection necklace (below). By Sara Almjaiwel The platinum necklace

from the Fingerprint collection is set with sapphire and diamonds. By Juan Juan Hu

The 18-karat gold bracelet from the Jade collection is set with diamonds and jade. Each piece is designed in flexible structure which can be removed, and the wearer can take out and put in each jade gem freely. By Juan Juan Hu

adorned with diamonds. “Nature and calligraphy inspires me, and thank God, my work has been appreciated at the VOD show,” she commented.

Abeer Khafaji from Mecca, Saudi Arabia, has been making handmade jewellery for the last six years and she mostly works with silver and uses lava, onyx, agate, coral, rose quartz and diamonds. Abeer, too, was pleasantly surprised by the positive response from buyers at the show.

Jyoti Anand, founder of Kaina Jewels, is a Dubai-based jewellery designer and entrepreneur. As a graduate gemmologist from the GIA, Jyoti works with hand-picked precious and semi-precious stones of highest quality, and her strength lies in using striking colour combinations that lend a distinctive edge to designs. “Originality is key for me and making jewellery is a way of expressing one’s individuality,” she said.

Juan Juan Hu, a jewellery designer from MA Jewellery Central Saint Martin, London, is an award-winning artist. “I have been in this field for seven years, and coming to VOD was a good opportunity to network and showcase my work. I mostly work in silver and 18-karat gold and I am inspired by nature, or anything that catches my fancy. One of my collections is an abstract rendition of fingerprints – no two fingerprints are the same and thus each piece in that collection is unique," she said.n