italia! - february 2016
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ITALIA
THE UK’S AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE ABOUT ITALY
NEW WEBSITE! www.italytravelandlifessue 135 February 2016 £4.60
0 2
9 771744 796061
HOLIDAYS PROPERTY FOOD WINE CULTURE PEOPL
Join us for 48 hours in the stunning city of Perugia,
famed for its back streets and its chocolate!
UMBRIA’S HEART
THE HIGH LIFE
Where to buy an apartment
RETURN TO SARDINIA
The perfect family holidayn the south of the island
MEALS INMINUTESWinter warmers
Rome in the snow Enjoying the Eternal Cityunder a blanket of white
Benetton after 50 years
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SUBSCRIBE T O ITALIA!Su b sc r ib e to Italia! f or ou r ex c l u si v e N ew Y ea r ’s o ff er * a n d
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Tu r n t o p a g e 3 2 f or m or e i nf or ma t ion.
W E L C O M E T O I T A L I A !
February 2016 ITALIA!3
Welcome!
T H IS MO N T H ’S CO N T R IBU T O RS
A DR I A N M O U RB Y h a s
w r i tt e n e x te n si v e ly
f o r Italia! a n d m a n y
o th e r fo o d a n d t ra v e l
m a g a z i n e s . I n t hi s
i ss u e h e e n j o y s a
d i f f er e nt t a k e o n
R o m e , d i sc o v e r i n g
t h e E te r n a l Ci t y w h e n
i t wa s c o v e r e d i n sn o w . B e a u t if u l a l l y e a r
r o u n d , Ro m e ta k e s o n a d i f f er e n t d e g r e e o f
m a j es ty d u r i ng t h e w i nt er . J u s t m i n d y o u r
f o ot in g Se e p a g e 4 4 .
J O N B I CK L EY t a k e s
h is f a m i l y b a c k t o
o n e o f t h e m o s t
e x c l u s i v e h o t e l
c o m p l ex e s i n
s o u t h e r n S a r d i n i a ,
r e t u r n i n g t o t h e F o r t e
V i ll a g e n e a r Ch i a
L a g u n a , w h er e th e
B i c k l ey c l a n e n jo y fi ne d i n i ng a n d p l en ty
o f sp o r t t o w o r k o f f t he ex c e s se s Y o u c a n
r ea d a b o u t t h ei r a c t iv i t i es a n d e sc a p a d e s
f ro m p a g e 6 2 .
F L E U R K I N S O N i s o n e
o f t h e b e s t - k n o w n
f a c e s of Italia!,
h a v i n g w r i t t en j u s t
a b o u t e v e r y H o m e s
I n . .. f e a t u r e s in c e t h e
m a g a z i n e la u n c he d
i n 2 0 0 4 . In th is
i ss u e s h e s u g g e s ts
c o n si d e r i n g a n a p a r t m e n t r a t h e r th a n a f u l l
h o u s e . Ch e a p e r to b u y a n d r u n , t h ey o f f e r
c i t y a n d t o w n l iv i n g t h a t i s b o t h c o n v e n i e nt
a n d a f f o r d a b le . J o i n h er on p a g e 2 2 .
AWARD WINNER!The Italian TouristBoard voted Italia! the ‘Best OverallPublication 2011’
I’m a little embarrassed that,
although I ’v e been lucky enough to
trav el ex tensiv ely through Umbria,
I’v e nev er (y et!) made it to the
region’s cap ital, Perugia. I’v e come
close: I v ery nearly w ent to the city ’s
w orld-famous chocolate festiv al one
year, but all the hotels w ere full...
So I read w ith interest our cov er
feature this month, w here Lorenza Bacino discovers there
a lot more to the city than sw eet things to p op into your
mouth. It’s a city of art and intr igue, as you’ll d iscov er
from p age 3 6 .
R ome features again in this issue, in tw o features, in
fact. F irst off, from p age 44, regular w riter Adrian Mourby
sp ends time in the city w hen it’s cov ered in snow . I am
p articularly p roud of some of the stunning images he came
back w ith. And then, from p age 82 K atie and G iancarlo
Caldesi treat us to a selection of recip es for w hich theEternal City is w ell know n.
A nd, as ev er, there’s p lenty more to enjoy in the fi rst
issue of Italia! to be p ublished in 2 0 1 6 . Anthem’s MDtakes his family back to a fav oured sp ot in southern
Sardinia; F leur K inson ex amines the market for buy ing
ap artment p rop erties in the country ; w e hav e homes
for sale in the ever-p op ular Le Marche region; there are
more recip es, ev ents to attend and new s from around the
p eninsula. Please do let me know w hat you think of the
issue – you’ll fi nd my email address on p age 1 8.
or
PS Italia!’s brand new guide to R ome the South is on salenow (£7.99). Visit w w w .italytrav elandlife.com/italiaguidesfor details.
Perugia is a w alker’s city, but
you w ill need strong calves to
clim b all those steps
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IN THIPROPERTY 22 HOMES IN APARTMENTS
Whether you’re looking for somewhere urban,
coastal or rural, Fleur Kinson guides youthrough some of the practicalities.
50 PROPERTY FOCUS: LE MARCHEInsiders know that Le Marche has the best
property value for money in Italy.
HOLIDAYS36 48 HOURS IN PERUGIA
The capital city of Umbria had more than
enough to keep Lorenza Bacino busy for along weekend.
44 ROME IN THE SNOWAdrian Mourby was lucky enough to arrive just as the locals were working out how to
cope with the white stuff.
57 SPA ATTRACTIONPatricia Cleveland-Peck took a relaxingbreak on the island of Giudecca at the Bauer
Palladio Hotel & Spa.
62 RETURN TO FORTE VILLAGEThree years after their first visit, Jon Bickleytook his family back to Sardinia for a week of
relaxation, fine dining and sport.
February2016CULTURE20 GAZZETTA
Tom Alberto Bull considers the importance ofthe town square to Italian life.
34 FAST CULTURE Joe Gartman describes the treasures foundon the Antikythera shipwreck.
42 FAST ARTFreya Middleton discusses the nature andimportance of cathedrals.
74 UNITED COLORSGilly Turney looks back over 50 years ofItalian fashion brand Benetton.
FOOD & DRINK79 FOUR TAKES ON GNOCCHI
Variations on the soft dumping theme.
82 ROME: CENTURIES IN AN ITALIAN KITCHENKatie and Giancarlo Caldesi are back.
88 PRONTOFive quick-and-easy Italian winter favourites.
90 BUY ITALIA!The best readily available pestos.
92 DRINK ITALIA!Paul Pettengale samples some grappas.
22
4 ITALIA! February 2016
57
44
42
82 92
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MORE ITALIA!6 READERS’ PHOTO COMPETITION
ThebesteachissuewinsabottleofNino
FrancoProseccoandcooler!
8 ITALIAN NEWSYourround-upofthebiggestand
bestnewsstoriesfrom
aroundItaly.
12 TOP PICKSOurchoiceofthebestnew
Italianproducts.
14 EVENTS IN FEBRUARYWhat’sinthediaryfor
travellerstoItaly.
16 VIEWPOINTAsummernight’sduskfalls
ontheGrandCanalinMilan,
andthecafésthatlinethe
watersidepreparethemselvesforanother
evening’sbrisktrade–butitwasn’t
alwayssopeaceful…
I N T H I S I SSU E
19 LETTERSReaderssharetheirstoriesandpictures
fromtheirexperiencesinItaly,andtell
uswhereweshouldbegoingnext.
32 SUBSCRIBE TO ITALIA!NevermissanissueofItalia!–
andsaveontheshopprice.
68 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERSOurexpertsareheretohelp.
72 PAST ITALIA!“Hewhocontrolsthehigh
groundcontrolsthebattle,”
–anditdoesn’tgetmuch
higherthantheRocca
Calascio.
98 ITALIA! ICONSBerettaistheoldestactive
firearmsmanufacturerinthe
world,andisfamedforits
handcraftedshotguns.
ON T HE COVER
p
p74
February2016 ITALIA!5
p36
p44
p62
p22
ROME p44
LE MARCHEp50
GIUDECCAp57
PERUGIA p36
MILAN p16
SANTA MARGHERITA DI PULAp62
p82
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Send us your fav ourite p hotos from your Italian trav els, and each month the
best p hoto w ill w in a bottle of NinoFrancoRusticoProsecco and cooler!*
READERS’ PHOTO
COMPETITION!
Y O U R I T A L IA !
TH ISMONTH ’SW INNER
Judy Reynolds, Fowlmere, near Cambridge“Photoofbeautiful Portofinowhen we stayed there for a coupleof days in Junethisyear.”
SEE MOR E OFYOUR PHOTOS ON
OUR W EBSITE :
italytravelandlife.com
6ITALIA! February 20 1 6
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Feb r u a r y 2 0 1 6 ITALIA! 7
HOW TO ENTER Ema i l h i gh - r eso l u t i on ( 3 0 0 d p i ) jp e g s o f y o u r p hotos o f I ta l y toitalia@ anthem-p ublishing.com or send p r ints to ‘Rea d er P hoto Comp eti tion’ a t the
a d d r ess g i v e n o n p a g e 1 8 . P l e a se in c l u d e a b r ie f e x p l a n a t io n of y o u r p h o t o,
p l u s y o u r n a m e , d e li v e ry a d d r ess a n d a p h o ne n u m b e r ( fo r ou r c o u r ie rs) .
Y o u m u s t b e o v e r 1 8 t o en te r.
READER OF F ER Italia! r e a d e rs g e t a 1 0 p e r c e nt d i sc o u n t of f Ni noFr anc o wines from w w w .sommelierschoice.com u n t il 2 9 Fe b r u a r y 2 0 1 6
b y ente ri n g the c o d e ‘i ta l ia 1 0 ’ a t the che c k o u t .
P l ea s e n ot e: A n y p h o to s y o u s u b m i t m u s t b e y o u r o w n wo r k a n d y o u m u s t ha v e
the r i gh t to sen d them fo r inc l u s ion on th is p a g e . B y sen d in g y o u r entr y , y o u a r e
con fi rm ing th a t Italia!’s u se of you r photo( s) will not constit ute infr ing ement of a ny
r i g h t s, a n d c o n fi rm ing t ha t y o u a r e ov e r 1 8 .
Rowland Hogg,Wallingford, Oxfordshire“Thetortuousroadfrom
CapritowntoAnacapriwith
hairpinbendsandbarelyroom
fortwominibusestopassis
awesome,butclimbingthe
992PhoenicianStepsseenin
theforegroundwillreallytake
yourbreathaway.”
Goretti O’Dea, Co. Offaly, Ireland“W hatamajesticsightIwasgreetedwithuponmyarrivalin
AmalfiinJuly2015.Thismagnificentshipwasjustsetting
sail.Iwatchedasitssailsunfolded,dumbfounded!”
Paul Norgard, Michigan, USA“TookthisphotoOctober2013onaroadcyclingride
toVolpaia,ProvinceofSiena,Tuscany.Quintessential
Tuscany,rollinghills,vineyardsandcypresses.”
W I N
N I N O F R A N C O R U S
P R O S E C C O C H I L L E
Ian Hughes,Wallasey, Merseyside“W eweretravellingback
toBariairportafterour
holidaynearLeccewhen
wepoppedintothis
beautifullittleharbour
atSanVito.Mycamera
wasalreadypackedso
Isnappedthispicture
withmymobilephone.”
Rick Carlotti, Pennsylvania, USA“ThisphotoisoftheSicilyRomeAmericanCemeteryinAnziohonoringthose
nearly11,000AmericanmenandwomenwhogavetheirlivestofreeItaly
fromthegripoftheAxisforcesinW W II,helpingtoturnthetideinfavor
oftheAllies.ForAmericanssuchasme,thebeautyandserenityofthisplace
andtheoverwhelmingnumberofperfectlyplacedtombstonesisapowerful
reminderofthepriceoffreedom!”
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InItalian newsthismonth,someancientfishsauceturnsupinashipwreck,a‘second’MonaLisaturnsupinRussia,Rome’sOlympic
bidturnsuptheheat,andtheGhettogetssetforamakeover…
N E W S
F ebruary 2 16
HARRY POTTER AND THE TOLERANT SCHOOLKIDS
Hey presto! Not only is Harry Potter a damn good wizard,he also makes students more tolerant human beings. Two
studies have been carried out among Italian schoolkids
– one with 34 fifth-graders and the second with 117
high-school pupils – where the children were encouraged
to read passages from JK Rowling’s books over a course of
six weeks, then asked to fill out questionnaires. The result
suggested that those students who identified emotionally
with the young wizard, and his magical mates Ron W easley
and Hermione Granger, showed “improved attitudes towar
immigrants” and a greater affinity with LGBT (lesbian, gay
bisexual and transgender) people.
ODO
l ian ‘fast food’ chain has opened in London.preneurs Amin Bouafsoun and Simone Sajeva,
elin-starred chef Tommaso Arrigoni on board,
es to bring the “authentic, passionate flavours
estaurants in the City, Mayfair and Canary
f, and all at competitive prices. But the Italian
eme doesn’t stop with the dishes themselves –
brilliantly, home deliveries will be carried out
by staff driving either a Fiat 500 or a Vespa,
and wearing Italian fashions supplied by
Dainese and Conte of Florence. Orders will be
taken via a simple two-step app process.
IPPET S SNIPPET S SNIPPET S...SNIPPET S...SNIPPET S...SNIP
SOMETH ING SMELLS FISH Y…Tomato ketchup may not have been invented when the Ancient Romans were around, but its precursor was– and thousands of jars of the stuff have been discovered in a shipwreck off the coast of Alassio, Liguria. T he
seasoning, a pungent fish-based sauce known as garum, was found piled up high inside a sunken vesseldating back to the 1st or 2nd century AD . And while it’s not exactly gold bullion, it still represents an
important discovery for archaeologists – especially as the ship is one of only five Ancient Roman boats tohave been located in the deep waters of the Mediterranean. Enthused Vincenzo Tine, Liguria’sSuperintendent of Archaeology, “Locating [the ship] at such depth has been a very importantachievement.” Garum was made by fermenting fish in saltwater, much like modern Asian fish
sauces, and accompanied almost every meal in Ancient Roman times.
8 ITALIA!February2016
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PININFARINA’SPASSAGETOINDIA
LegendaryItalianauto-designcompanyPininfarinaS.p.A
hasbeenboughtoutbyIndia’sMahindraGroup.The
debt-riddenfirm,basedinCambiano,hasdesignedcars
forFerrari,MaseratiandRolls-Royce,butafailureto
turnaroundaprofitintenofthelast11yearstookits
toll.Theacquisitionmeansthat,thoughPininfarinawill
remainanindependentcompany,withPaoloPininfarina
continuingaschairmanoftheboard,itsdesign expertise
willbedistributedacrosstheentireMahindraGroup.
SaidtheIndianbrand’schairman,AnandMahindra,“The
legendaryhigh-enddesigningcredentialsofPininfarina
willsignificantlyenhance[our]designcapabilities.”
WECERTAINLYWEREN’TEXPECTING TWINS
LeonardodaVinci’sMona Lisa isaone-offworkofgenius,right?Well,itturnsoutitmightnotbe.A
secondpainting,looking virtuallyidenticaltotheRenaissanceartist’spricelessmasterpiece,hasbeen
discoveredinaprivatecollectioninStPetersburg,Russia.Theduplicatehasdumbfounded DaVinci
experts,withtheonlyrealdifferencetotheversionhangingintheLouvreinParisappearingtobetwo
columnsframingthepicture.They’rehopingthatnewlydevelopedcomputersoftwarewillhelpthem
todetermineifthe‘second’MonaLisawasactuallypaintedbytheRenaissancemasterorismerelyan
inspiredfake.“TherearemanyindicatorspointingtotheTuscanartisticgenius,”saidItalianartexpert
SilvanoVinceti.“But,ofcourse,it’sonlyahypothesis.”TheoriginalMonaLisaisbelievedtohavebeen
paintedbetween1503 and1506,andhasbeenonpermanentdisplayattheLouvresince1797.
THEBARDHITSTHEBIGSCREEN
Rom eo and Julietistobeturnedintoawarfilm –
butitwillbeMarvelgeniusStanLee’sgraphic-novel
versionthat’sadaptedforthesilverscreen,rather
thanWilliam Shakespeare’soriginal16th-centuryplay.
“ThestoryofRomeoAndJulietisoneofm yabsolute
favourites,and Ican’twaittobringourrendition
ofthisclassictolife,”beamedLee.Shakespeare’s
tragedycentredaroundtwoyoungloversfrom Verona,
whoserelationshipwasultimatelydoomedbecauseof
thefiercerivalrybetweentheirtwofamilies.Whether
thenew versionisalsosetintheItaliancityremains
tobeseen.
SN IPPETS...SN IPPET S...SN IPPET S...SN IPPETS...SN IPPETS...SN
February 20 1 6 ITALIA! 9
Experts are hoping that computer software will helpthem to determine if the ‘second’ Mona Lisa was painted
by Leonardo da Vinci or is merely an inspired fake
THERE’SNOPLACELIKEROME
Rome w ill host the Ryder Cup in 2 0 2 2 – the fi rst time the p restigious men’s
golf comp etition w ill hav e been held in Italy, and only the third time it w ill
have taken p lace in continental Europ e (follow ing Sp ain in 1 9 9 7 and F rance
in 2 0 1 8). Austria, Germany and Sp ain also bid for the right to host the 2 0 2 2
edition of the biennial tournament, w hich p its the best Europ ean p layers
against their American counterp arts, but I taly – and sp ecifi cally Rome’s
Marco Simone Golf Country Club, w as deemed the most suitable. One of
the aw arding judges, K eith Pelley, said, “History has show n time and again
that the Ryder Cup is p ure theatre, w ith the p layers being the stars, and
there’s no q uestion that the Eternal City of Rome w ill p rov ide a w onderful
backdrop for one of the great occasions in w orld golf.” T he most recent
Ryder Cup w as held in Scotland in 2 0 1 4, and w on by Europ e – the team’s
third consecutiv e triump h.
M o n a L i s a b y L e o n a r d o d a V i n c i
[ P u b l i c d o m
a i n ] , v i a W i k i m
e d i a C o m
m
o n s
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N E W S
STOP PRESS STOP PRESS...STOP PRESS...STOP PRESS...STO
GOINGFORGOLD
Rome has unv eiled the logo for its 2 0 2 4
Summer Olymp ics bid – it dep icts the
Colosseum, in the colours of the I talian fl ag,
blending into a running track. The Italian
cap ital faces stiff comp etition from Paris, Los
Angeles and Budap est, but the Chairman of
Rome’s bid, Luca Cordero di Montez emolo,
is confi dent that the logo giv es them a
headstart. “Today, w e’re sending a strong
message to the IOC [I nternational Olymp ic
Committee] and our comp etitors,” he
declared. “The city of Rome w ants to
realise the most beautiful Olymp ics of the
century. We have ev erything w e need todo it – culture, beauty, technology and the
enthusiasm of our young p eop le.” Sp eaking
of young p eop le, the logo w as rev ealed in
front of around 2 ,5 0 0 Roman schoolchildren,
along w ith p ast Italian Olymp ic medallists, at
the city’s Palaz z etto dello Sp ort. The IOC w ill
make a fi nal decision on w hich city w ill host
the Games in Sep tember 2 0 1 7 .
HOTELMAKESITSKIINAROW
TheCristalloHotelSpa&GolfinCortinad’Ampezzo
hasbeen namedItaly’sBestSkiHotel–forthethird
yearrunning.Thefive-starresort,whichisnestled
in thespectacularDolomitesregioninthenorth-
eastofthecountry,secureditshat-trickofWorld
SkiAwardsgongsduringaglitteringceremonyin
theAustriantownofKitzbühel.Ownedbythesame
familysinceitopenedin1901,theCristallohouses
74 individuallydecoratedbedrooms,fouron-site
restaurants,aluxuryspaandafitnessclub.But
mostimportantly,it’srightonthedoorstepofsome
ofItaly’smostmajesticslopes.
DON’T I KNOW YOU FROM SOMEWHERE?Everyone remembers the three M ini C oopers from classic 1969 film T heItalian Job, but what about theLamborghini M iura? T hat’s right, theglorious orange sports car was famously shunted over the side of a
cliff, prompting fans of the legendary Italian marque to covertheir eyes in horror. W ell, it turns out the car used in thatscene was actually a ‘stunt double’ and already a wreck, leavingthe beautiful M iura LP400 seen driving around at the start ofthe film intact. And even better, asItalia!went to press withthis issue, it was up for sale. No price was given by the seller,Cheshire C lassic Cars (meaning it was probably eye-wateringlyexpensive), but we do know that the car has had five differentowners since it was built and, while it’s been given a new engineblock and a lick of paint, it’s still one magnificent set of wheels.Takea look atwww.cheshireclassiccars.co.uk
Theglorioussportscar was famously shunted over a cliff
GHETTOSUPERSTARS
The V enetian Heritage Council is aiming to restore the city’s historic Ghetto area, and it’s ap p ealing to w ealthy
celebrities to help fund the p roject. It w as 5 0 0 years ago this year – 2 9 March, to be ex act – that the V enetian
Rep ublic ordered its Jew ish p op ulation to liv e in the Ghetto, an area w ell aw ay from the heart of V enice and
surrounded by w ater. Now the Council, a non- p rofi t-making organisation headed by fashion designer Diane von
F urstenberg, is asking luminaries from the w orlds of fashion and show business to stump up cash to renovate the
district’s fi ve synagogues and Jew ish museum, the Museo Ebrico. So far, around € 2 million has been raised, but
at least another € 6 million is needed to comp lete the p roject. Barbra Streisand and Donna K aran are among the
famous names w ho are believ ed to have show n an interest.
SEXIESTEVERITALIANSREVEALED
TrendyNewYorklifestylemagazinePaperhasdeclaredits‘seven
sexiestItaliansofalltime’(andthengoneontonamenine… ).
Unsurprisingly,moviestarsmakeupthebulkofthelist,with
screensirensSophiaLoren,MonicaBellucci,MonicaVitti,Silvana
ManganoandOrnellaMutibeingjoinedbybushy-eyebrowed
spaghetti-westernstarFabioTesti.Elsewhere,there’sformerskier
AlbertoTomba,entrepreneurandgrandsonofFiatmogulGianni
Agnelli,LapoElkann,and,ratherunexpectedly,“theyoungmanin
Bronzino’sPortrait of a Young Man”.RobertDeNirodoesn’t
getalookin.Butwhatreallystrikesusasoddisthe
ideaofsomeonegoinguptoBronzino’spaintingand
thinking… “Phoar!”
B r o n z i n o , P o r t r a i t o f a Y o u n
g M a n
[ P u b l i c d o m
a i n ] , v i a W
i k i m
e d i a C o m
m
o n s
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FRATELLI CAMISA H AVE BEEN BRING ING TO TH E
U K ONE OF TH E BEST SELECTIONS OF AU TH ENTIC
ITALIAN FOODS FOR OVER 85 YEARS
Allavailable from our
easy-to-use w ebsite
w w w .cam isa.co.uk
W ITH
NEXT DAY
DELIVERY
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F O O D & P R O D U C T S
12ITALIA! February 20 1 6
P 3...TH IS MON TH ’S TOP 3...TH IS MON TH ’S TOP 3...THISM
sGetting the family back to the dining table, v isiting thePuglian coast to stayinacavehoteland making coffee frombed are three things w e’d like to do this year…
V alentine w as a 3 rd-century Roman saint
w ho has cometobeassociated w ith
lov e. He is also know n to guard against
fainting, ep ilep sy and p lague…
T op 3 id ea s forVALENTINES
G ET TH E FAMILY COOK INGIn this day and age,it’s com m on for yourkidsto eat
their dinner in their bedroom w hile you eatyourson a tray in front of the TV.A new book,Let’s Cook
Italian,aim s to restore som e fam ily unityto yourdining.
Com piled by chef Anna Prandoni,it’s packed w ith starters,
m ains and desserts,and encourages jointpreparation by
parents and children by w ay of fun activities.It’sw ritten in
both English and Italian,too,so you can brush up on your
language skills as you go.£12.99,w w w .am azon.co.uk
W E A R T H IS!
1DOAROMANTICJIGSAW
Completingajigsawtogethercan
beafunandromanticwaytospend
arainyafternooninwinter,especiallyif
thatafternoonhappenstofallonoraround
the14thofFebruary.Thisdelightfuljigsaw
puzzlecapturesanidyllicsettinginVerona,
thecitywheretheworld’smostfamous
couple,RomeoandJuliet,fellinlove.And
withnofewerthanathousandpiecesto
compile,it’llgiveyoutheperfectexcuseto
cuddleupandputyourheadstogether.£9,
www.amazon.co.uk
KEEPWARMINITALIANSTYLE
Oneofthebestthingsaboutthe
wintermonthsisbeingableto
layerupwithgorgeousknitwear,an
outlandishscarfandabig,chunky
overcoat.PartoftheAutograph
collectionformenatM&S,this
buttonedcoatwascreatedbyBalli,
afamily-ownedwoolmanufacturerthat’sbeen
operatingoutofTuscanysince1948.Itsluxury
woolandcashmerefabric,andremovablefaux-
furcollar,combinetomakeajacketthathas
boththewarmandthewowfactor.
£179,www.marksandspencer.com
SUMMERFIGTREATThenexttimeyou’rebeinglashedbytheslee
andsnow,imaginehowmuchmorebearable
wouldbeifyoucouldliftyourwristtoyou
faceandsmellthesummeryscentofPugliao
yourskin.That’sthetantalisingtreatonoffe
withthisItalianSummerFigTreatsgiftse
from TheBodyShop.Itcontainsashowerge
abodylotion(both60ml)andaminicrinkl
bathlily–butmostimportantly,itcontain
adoseofinstantwarmth
£6,www.thebodyshop.co.u
U SE T H IS!
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3SEEK M I N IM A LI SM I N L O V E
Th is p o st e r m a y b e m in im a l ist ,
b u t t h e m essa g e i s lo u d a n d
c l e a r : ’ Veni Vidi Amavi ’ is Latin for
’ I Came, I Saw, I Loved ’, making this
artwork the perfect gift for a couple
who’ve just moved into a new home
– or the ideal add it ion to your own
love nest. It’s handmade, too, which
gives it a certain added charm.
Various sizes are available. From
£7.37 ( frame is not included in the
price), www.etsy.com
H ’ST OP 3 ... T H IS MON T H ’ST OP 3 ... T H IS MON T H ’ST OP 3 ... T
February 2016 ITALIA! 13
2A BOTTLE OF WINE, OR TWO?
Two’s company, so the sayinggoes – and we reckon this duo of
Italian wines from Zonin’s vineyards in
Vicenza go rather well together. Presented
in a stylish gift box, there’s a light and
refreshing 2014 Pinot Grigio, as well as
an intense, fruity 2013 Montepulciano.
We’ve heard it said that you should never
mix white and red grapes, but Valentine's
Day falls on a Sunday this year, so you've
got all weekend to get through them…
£49.99, www.24studio.co.uk
LIVING IN A CAVEEver wanted to live like
Fred Flintstone? Well, book
a few nights at the Grotta
Palazzese Hotel and you’ll
get your wish – large parts of
it are housed inside a cave.
These limestone caverns,
beneath the ancient clifftop
town of Polignano a Mare,
have enchanted travellers
to the region for centuries.
Nowadays, they provide the
perfect backdrop for enjoying
a seafood lunch while looking
out to the Adriatic Sea. Rooms
from €120 per night, www.
grottapalazzese.it
SMART COFFEE IN BED?Making the p erfect cup of coffee has nev er been easier, thanksto aclev er
new bean-to-cup machine from those kitchen geniuses at D e’Longhi. T he
PrimaD onna Elite p airs w ith your smartp hone or tablet (iO S or Android),
enabling you to p ersonalise your drink, create a p rofi le and ev en create new
recip es from your handset. If you’re not q uite ready to be so dow n w ith the
kids just yet, you can also op erate the machine v ia its touchscreen. Either
w ay, a delicious brew is guaranteed. £ 1 ,49 9 .9 9 , w w w .johnlew is.com
B U Y THIS!
VERDI VS SHAKESPEARETwo of the most iconic names in th
arts sphere are brought together in
new DVD/Blu-ray compilation, Verd
The Shakespeare Operas. The Italian
composer was a big fan of the Bard
and created musical versions of tw
of his plays, Macbeth and Othello, a
another following one of his recurrcharacters, Falstaff. Productions of
all three are presented here, from
(respectively) London, Barcelona a
Glyndebourne. If you’ve struggled
decipher the works of Shakespeare
these rousing operas paint them
in a whole new light. £29.99
(DVD)/£34.99 (Blu-ray),
www.amazon.co.uk
HANG ON LADS, NHow cool ar e these red , white and blue, Mini-shaped
chopping boards! Inspired by the classic Michael Caine film
T he Italian Job, the set of three boards ar e smooth on one side
to allow for easy chopping and s licing, and feature detailing of
the windscreen, grille, headlights etc of these legendary 1960s
cars on the other. With these in your kitchen armoury, you
can’t fail to be inspired. Just don’t go blowing the bloody oven
door off. £11.99, www.findmeagift.co.uk
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Oneofthefi rst signs of springisthealmondblossominAgrigento,whichisasgoodacauseforcelebrationasany.InNaplestheywillbefightingthecommon
coldwithwine,whileinCataniatheywillrememberthemartyrSant’Agata…
EVENTS IN FEBRUARY 2016
SAINT BIAGIO DAY3 February
Mugnano diNapoli
We bet you didn’t know
there was a patron
saint of the throat! His
name is Saint Biagio,
and on this day many
towns and villages
across Italy ask for his
blessing to protect
their throats against
ailments. Brilliantly,
they do this by eating
leftover panettone and
drinking wine. Which,
to our mind, i sa much
more favourable way
of fendingoff sore
throats than sucking
on a menthol lozenge.
Visit Mugnano di Napoli,
near Naples, to witness
a spectacular fireworks
display.
SI NATIONSRUGBY: FRANCEVS ITALY6 February
Paris, France
Here we go again – it’s
the opening fixture
of this year’s big six-
country dust-up, and
the Italians travel to the
Stade de France, hoping
to improve on last year’s
displays against Le
Bleus when they were
thrashed 29-0 at home
in this tournament,
before losing 32-10 in
the World Cup. If you
can’t get tickets to the
match, why not kick
back in front of thetelevision with a nice
bottle of Peroni and a
handful of bread sticks.
Kick-off 3.25pm.
www.rbs6nations.com
CARNIVAL OFIVREA6-9 February
Ivrea
In the Middle Ages, thestunning Piedmont town
of Ivrea was persecuted
by an evil baron who
starved the population.
Thankfully, it was
eventually liberated
and, to celebrate that
fact, the town holds an
annual carnival with
a colourful parade,
pipe and drum music,
and food stalls. But by
far the best bit is the
Battle of the Oranges, a
symbolic reconstruction
of the town’s fightagainst tyranny, where
costumed protagonists
attack each other with
the juicy fruit.
You’re guaranteed a
citrus-ly good time!
www.storico
carnevaleivrea.it
CARNIVAL OFVIAREGGIO7, 14, 21 & 28 February
Viareggio
Venice isn’t the only
city that hosts a grand
carnival at this time
of year. Since 1873,
the Tuscan coastal
town of Viareggio
has been hosting an
annual shindig (with
the exception of a
few years), and it’s
now recognised as
Italy’s greatest folk
event. National TV
crews broadcast the
action live, whichmeans it’s not just
major politicians and
other celebrities who
get to witness the
spectacular floats,
music and merriment,
but the people sitting
at home, too.
viareggio.ilcarnevale
.com
SAINT AGATHA’SFEAST3-5 February
Catania
Italy is no stranger to
spectacular religious
festivals, but this
one probably tops
the lot – indeed, it’s
considered one of the
most important religious
events in the world.
Agatha of Sicily was a
3rd-century Christian
saint who was tortured
for refusing to give
up her faith, and the
Sicilian city of Catania
– believed by many
to be her birthplace –
celebrates her annually
with a vast procession
and other festivities.
To mark the fact that
Agatha’s breasts were
removed during her
ordeal, there are evenboob-shaped cakes!
ALMOND BLOSSOMFESTIVAL1-8 February
Agrigento
While the basis of this
week-long festival in
Agrigento, Sicily, is
the spring awakening
and, specifically, the
blossoming of the
almond trees (believe
us, it’s a sight to
behold), there’s so much
more to see and do.
You’ll be treated to an
international f olklore
festival packed with
song and storytelling,
a parade of traditional
Sicilian carriages,
a food expo and a
programme of evening
theatre performances.
No wonder the event
has been running
successfully for more
than 70 years!
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Please note that the dates of all events are subject to change. If you plan to attend, check events are going ahead before you travel. All attempts are made to present the correctdetails.
SANREMO MUSICFESTIVAL9-13 February
Sanrem o
Eurovision is theworld’s most famous
song contest, and it
wouldn’t exist withoutthe Sanremo Music
Festival. This glamorouscompetition, first
staged in 1951, was the
inspiration for the eventthat brought us Gigliola
Cinquetti, Abba and,erm, Conchita Wurst.
Traditionally, the winner
of Sanremo has goneon to represent Italy at
Eurovision – as Cinquettidid in 1964 with Non ho
l’età. So it’s not just the
notes that soar at thiscompetition, the stakes
are pretty high, too.
The alm ond blossom arrives in Agrigento
VERONA IN LOVE14-16 February
Verona
Another option for
lovebirds on Valentine’sweekend is this
delightful annualfestival, which sees
Verona – home of Romeo
and Juliet, of course– transformed into a
hotbed of romance. Allacross the city, there are
gestures intended to set
hearts aflutter, from redlanterns to thousands
of love letters pinnedon walls and buildings,
themed restaurant
menus to a programmeof free concerts. If you’re
looking for the perfectplace to ask a certainquestion, you’ve just
found it.www.veronainlove.it
OLIVE ANDBRUSCHETTAFESTIVAL21 FebruarySpello
If you’re passionate
about Italy, chancesare you love olives
and bruschetta – two
of the country’s mostcelebrated foods. In
which case, you shouldn’t
miss this annual shindigin the medieval walled
town of Spello in Umbria.So proud are the local
farmers of their produce
that they parade throughthe streets on decorated
tractors; and there’s alsomusic and dancing. But
make no mistake, the
star of the showwill bethe food – we guarantee
you’ll have never tasted
olives and bruschettathis good!
SAINT FAUSTINO’SDAY15 FebruaryBrescia
Put away those roses
and chocolates: Saint
Valentine’s Day is over now,and it’s the turn of
the world’s singletonsto celebrate. They’ve
adopted Saint Faustino
as their patron, so if yousee any signs for a party
bearing that name, you’ll
know that romance isstrictly off the menu.
Faustino is also thepatron saint of Brescia,
and the northern Italian
town celebrates hisday with fun, food and
fireworks. We’re guessingyou don’t have to be
single to attend this one.
MILAN FASHIONWEEK 11-18 FebruaryMilan
Nothing divides opinionlike high fashion: you
either think it’s fabulous
or ridiculous. Whicheverside of the fence you sit
on, you can’t deny it’s anentertaining spectacle
watching supermodels
traversing a catwalkclothed in the latest
weird and wonderful
garments. Milan is, ofcourse, the centre of the
sartorial universe, sotickets for this week’s
events will sell like hot
cakes. If you’re unlucky,you could always do
some celeb spotting onthe streets around the
venues – or wait until
the next event in thesummer.
www.milanfashionweeklive.com
February 2016 ITALIA! 15
CIOCCOLENTINO11-14 FebruaryTerni
What better way to show
your Valentine how muchyou love her (or him)
than by whisking her (or
him) off to this fabulousfestival of chocolate? As
you’d expect, tastings,talks and tips are the
order of the day. (Just
don’t go overboard –remember that chocolate
is an aphrodisiac!) But
the best part is that theevent takes place in the
city of Terni, Umbria,whose patron saint is…
yep, you guessed it, Saint
Valentine.www.cioccolentino.com
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16 ITALIA!February2016
VIEW POINT Asummernight’sduskfallson the Grand Canal in Milanandthecafésthatlinethewaterside
preparethemselvesforanotherevening’sbrisktrade,butitwasn’talwayssopeaceful…
Today, this is just a beautiful place to be, but these waterways wereonce the very arteries of Milan, carrying the city’s lifeblood aroundits body. Today, Milanese will walk, drive, or take the bus to theNaviglio Grande for an aperitivo after work; in times gone by, manyof them would have been spending their days on boats on the canal,transporting goods around the city – and there wouldn’t have been anynice cafés for them to stop at for a sundowner either…
Unusually for a large European city, Milan has no river. It isconnected to the Po Valley river system by a series of canals, of whichthe Naviglio Grande (you will not be surprised to hear) is the mostimportant. This canal connects the city to the River Ticino, which skirtsthe west of the city as it descends from Lake Maggiore to the Po. Andit was along this route that the building materials for the Duomo,notably marble from Lake Maggiore, were brought into the city.
P h o
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LettheflavorsofItaly
dance in your mouthandsing in your heart onaCiaoLauraCulinaryVacationinItaly!
Fromaone-daycookerylessoninAmalfi
CoastandSorrentotoaweeklygourmet
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ON THE ROAD AGAINI hav e just returned from a driv ing holiday
through Tuscany. T he w eather w as v ariable,
but the driv ing w as great fun and myself
and my p artner stayed at many fantastic
hotels along the w ay using the Italia!GuidetoTuscanyas a source of insp iration.H ow ev er, someof theentries are now
somew hat out of date (I think I p urchased
it in 2 0 1 4). W i ll Italia! beup dating theGuidein the future? I ’d liketo takemy girlfriend back to T uscany for another road
trip in thesum mer of 2 0 1 6 .
Ga v i n T ho rp e , v i a e m a i l
Gavin, you’re in luck. We are starting work on the new
and updated I t al ia ! G u i de t o T u sc an y in the New Year
and it will be on sale in April.
WEBSITE WOESLast year I p urchased some panettonefromPugliaShop Onlineand w anted to do so
again thisyear. H ow ev er w hen I tried to
make a p urchase using the UR L given
(w w w .p ugliashop online.com) I had the
message that this w as not recognised. D o
you, therefore, hav e an up -to-date address?
Y our assistance w ould be v ery muchap p reciated.
P e t er B e llo ni , v i a e m a il
We’ve just checked the www.pugliashoponline.com website
and all seems tobe working fine now. We’re sure it was
just a temporary aberration.
KEEPING ON COOKINGMy w ife isa fantasticcook, and I’m
looking forw ard to another Christmas
roast lov ingly p rep ared. T his year w e’re
taking insp iration from Italia! magaz ineand cooking p heasant. T hank you for
FEA ST OF TH EI M M A CU LA TECO N CE P T I O NI a m a l on g - t im e su bs cr ib er
o f Italia! m a g az i n e . I r ea d
e ac h i ss ue c ov e r t o c ov e r w i t h
d el i gh t an d af t er I am fi n ish ed
I g i v e t h e i ssu e t o m y 8 7 - y ear- o ld m ot h er t o r ead ,
w h o se p ar en t s w e re f r om L a k e C om o .
I n t h e D e ce mb er 2 015 i ssu e o n p ag e 14 y o u
h av e a v e r y a cc ur at e d es cr ip t io n o f t h e D ec em b er
8 t h F ea st o f t h e I m m ac ul at e C on ce pt i on a s
i t i s c el eb ra te d i n I t al y, e x c ep t f or o n e v e ry
i m po r t an t p o in t . Y o u d e sc ri be t h e f e as t d ay a s
t h e “ c on ce pt i on o f t h e b ab y J e s u s” . T h e F ea st
o f t h e I m m a cu l at e C o nc e pt i o n c e le b ra t e s t h es ol em n b e li ef i n t h e I m m ac ul at e C on ce pt i on o f t h e
B l es se d V i rg i n M a ry . I t i s u n iv e r sa ll y c el eb ra t ed o n
D ec em be r 8 t h, n in e m o nt h s b e fo re t h e f e as t o f t h e
N at i v i t y o f M a ry , w h ich i s c e le br at ed o n S e p te mb er
8 t h . I t i s o n e o f t h e m o s t i mp or t an t M a ri an f ea st s
i n t h e l it u rg i ca l c al en d ar o f t h e R o m an C at h o li c
C h ur ch a n d i s c e le b ra t e d w o r l dw i d e .
K e ep u p t he g re at w o rk t ha t y o ur m ag az i ne
d oe s o n p ro v i d in g a ll o f u s w i t h c om p re h en si v e
ar t ic le s o n al l o f t he r eg io ns o f I t aly ! A l l o f y o ur
c o nt r i bu t i n g w r i t e rs a re f a n t as t ic !
J o h n L u c i a n i , F lo r i d a
S hare yo ur I ta l ian e x per iences w i th us, and te l l us what y ou wo uld like
to see in the mag az in e , by sending y our photographs and le t te rs to
i t a li a @ a n th em - p u b lish in g .c o m…
LET T ERS T O ITA LIA!
Do you have a road trip to Italy planned for 2016?
Do w rite and tell us of your plans!
February 2016 ITALIA!1 9
Y OU T ELL US!W e love receiving your letters, photos,
questions and recom m endations!
W rite to us today...
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TWITTER G o to w w w .i ta ly tr a v e la n d li f e .c om
and fo l low the Tw i t t e r l ink to keep up w i th
tweets f rom ‘ I ta liamag’ S ee you there!
your monthly sup p ly of Italian recip es – I
consider them to be p art of the ‘backbone’
of the magaz ine as it giv es those of us w ho
can only afford to Italy once or tw ice a year
a taste (no p un intended!) of the country
here in the heart of England.
A li st a i r H o r to n , W o r c e st e r
We do hope you enjoyed your Christmas pheasant, and
that you will enjoy another year of recipes from I tal ia!
magazine in 2016.
IT’S AN ART LIFEIt ’s been great to see that ov er the p ast
year or so you’v e increased the amount of
coverage of art and culture in Italia!. T hep rincip al reason for trav elling to Italy for
my husband and I is to v isit galleries and
museums. W e p articularly enjoy y our F ast
A rt and F ast Culture features and intend
to base a touring holiday around them nex t
year. My husband has just retired so w e’re
going to ‘blow the budget’ and go for six
w eeks. Italia! really i s an insp iration for us
and w e look forw ard to ev ery i ssue.J e n n if e r M u l ho ll a n d , v i a e m a i l
We do appreciate that we are lucky to have in Joe
Gartman and Freya Middleton two writers who know their
subjects inside out and love their work with I tal ia!
T h e I m m
a
t e C o n
e
t i o n
G i o
n n i
t t i s t
T i e
o o
i
o m
a i n
i
W i
i m e
i
C o m m o n s
The Im m aculate
Conception
L E T T E R
O
T H
E M O N
T
H
FEB2 0 1 6
Pheasant is an underrated m eat that is tasty,
sustainable and very good value for m oney.
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S P E A K I T A L IA !
In the third instalment of our rep rised bilingual column, Anglo- Italian TomAlbertoBull
considers the imp ortance of the tow n sq uare to Italian life…
GAZ Z ET TA ITALIA!
Life in the SquareW hen one thinks about Italian piazzas certain famoussquares come to mind – San Marco in Venice, PiazzaD uomo in M ilan, Piazza del Popolo in Rome. Allsteeped in history and homes to major landmarks.But this doesn’t tell the full story. All over Italy townsquares have become central to social life, providingthe core for the local population to thrive in.
H ere in the UK it’s commonplace run to thenearest park for a picnic as soon as the summer sunemerges. But in Italy, especially in the south wherethey are aided by a warmer climate, the place to be iswithout doubt the town square.
In times gone by, Sunday’s were the best time tosee this in action. W hile the women congregated inchurch for their weekly mass, the men would take theopportunity to head to the piazza for a game of cardsand a drink with the locals. T his phenomenon canstill be found in small towns which have maintainedthe traditions that stretch back for generations. It issignificant that a 1975 novel by Antonio Tabucchi,which charted the history of three generations ofa Tuscan family, revolved around a piazza. Its verytitle, Piazza d’Italia, was inspired by a real square in
M ontecatini Terme.W ith often the most popular bars and eateries
situated in the corners of a town piazza, they providethe perfect vantage point to see people coming andgoing and keep an eye out for acquaintances. Thiswould have been the norm before the days of mobilephones when you were better off finding your friendsthan trying to contact them.
N owadays squares have become a hub for nighttimeactivity. Allowing young people to have a cheap nightoutdoors with a bottle of wine, away from the loud musicof the discos, is an attractive proposition for a culturethat is renowned for enjoying a natter. In a small squarein N aples I even found people who had set up makeshift
stalls selling nuts and sweets to the crowd. One can’t helpbut think what would happen in the UK . I predict thatyou would be moved on before too long for loitering in apublic space and the vendors would be certainly expectedto produce a licence on request from the authorities.
T he Italian piazza is so much more than just atown square. T he community looks after it and inreturn they have a space that very much feels like itbelongs to the people. The culture and the squarehave become intertwined to the point where you cantake the Italian out of the piazza, but you can’t takethe piazza out of the Italian!
La vita in PiazzaQ uando si pensa alle piazze in Italia, saltano in mentequelle più famose – Piazza San Marco a Venezia, PiazzaD uomo a Milano, Piazza del Popolo a Roma. Sono tutteintrise di storia, e vi si trovano monumenti importanti.M a questo non è tutto. In tutta Italia le piazze sonodiventate centri di vita sociale, un punto di ritrovoessenziale per gli abitanti del posto.
Q ui nel Regno Unito, appena il sole estivo si faintravvedere, la gente corre al parco più vicino per fareun picnic. In Italia, invece, soprattutto nel sud dovehanno la fortuna di un clima ben più caldo, tutti vannosenz’altro alla piazza principale del posto.
In passato si notava questa tendenza soprattutto ladomenica. Mentre le donne si riunivano in chiesa per lamessa, gli uomini approfittavano dell’occasione per andarein piazza per una partita di carte e per bersi un aperitivo congli amici. Q uesto fenomeno si ripete ancora nelle piccolecittadine dove si conservano le tradizioni tramandate digenerazione in generazione. E’ significativo che un romanzodi Antonio Tabucchi del 1975, che ripercorre la storia di tregenerazioni di una famiglia toscana, ruoti attorno ad unapiazza. Il titolo stesso,Piazza d’Italia, si ispira ad una piazzaomonima a Montecatini Terme.
I bar e i ristoranti più frequentati in ogni angolo dellapiazza sono il punto migliore per osservare la gente che va eviene o per vedere un conoscente che incontri. Certo, questoera del tutto normale prima dell’avvento del cellularequando era meglio andare incontro agli amici invece dicercare di contattarli.
O ggi le piazze rappresentano il fulcro delle attivitàserali. E sse permettono ai giovani di godersi una seratanon troppo costosa all’aria aperta con una bottiglia divino, lontani dalla musica assordante delle discoteche, equindi offrono una proposta interessante per le personecon una cultura basata, come si sa, sulla necessità di fareuna bella chiacchierata. In una piazzetta di N apoli hoperfino visto persone che avevano delle bancarelle dove
vendevano castagne e caramelle alla folla. N on si puòimmaginare una scena simile nel R egno Unito. C redoche questi venditori sarebbero accusati di bighellonarein un luogo pubblico e costretti ad andarsene subito.C ertamente ci vuole una licenza dalle autoritàcompetenti per un’attività di questo genere.
La piazza in Italia non è solo il punto centrale diuna città. La popolazione si prende cura della piazza, ein compenso trova uno spazio che è tutto per loro. Lacultura e la piazza si intrecciano al punto che si puòtogliere un italiano alla piazza, ma non si può togliere lapiazza ad un italiano!
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Well-built, comfortable and great v alue for money, an Italian ap artment can
make a w ise buy. Whether you’re looking for somew here urban, coastal or rural,
FleurKinson guides you through some of the p racticalities…ApartmentsI
taly’s property prices are lower now than theywere eight years ago, and current exchangeratesallow non-euro buyers like yourself to get evenmoreproperty for your money, so you mightwell ask: why should I think about buying
an apartment? Surely with the market conditionsso favourable, I should benabbing myself a luxury
farmhouseor a big townhouse somewhere? W ell, of course you could, and if that’s what you’d like, go for it.But for many would-bebuyers at our tentatively post-recession moment, financial cautionremains a guiding principle. Spendingless and buying smaller have becomea bit of a habit. Soa large propertyin Italy, even while prices are sogood, might still feel likea big scarysplurge. A nice little apartment,however, can feel like a modest,prudent buy.
And indeed, a prudent buy itwould be. Italian apartments have
lots to recommend them. Pricesare low, value-for-money is high.C onstruction is usually excellent,comfort is assured. And location canbe just about anywhere. Apartmentsaren’t restricted to cities and theseaside. M any largeold buildings insmall towns and villages have beendivided intogenerously-sized andwell-restored apartments. And insome places with a very long traditionof attracting foreign visitors (the
northern lakes, for example), many stately old periodvillas have been tastefully re-vamped for the modern ageand split into separate living accommodation.
W e privacy-loving Brits often wrinkle our nosesat the word ‘apartment’, prizing ‘splendid isolation’and suspecting that any form of ‘shared’ property will be somehow second-rate. But this is not thedominant
attitude across continental Europe, where apartment-living is a stylish norm. R est assured that Italianapartments arewell-built, comfortable and quiet.
C ity-central buildings are oftencenturies-old, with thick stone wallsthat guard against neighbourly noise.Small-town and village homes thathave been divided intoapartmentstend tobe similarly solid. In suburbs,modern apartment buildings inconcretemight be less beautiful on the outside, but they’re usuallynot less sound-proof on the inside.Italians don’t consider apartments
to be a second-classproperty option,and builders plan for peaceand quietin their construction.
OUTDOOR SPACEW ith Italy’s climatebeing whatit is, the nation’s apartments arefrequently madeeven more appealingby the inclusion of an outdoor spacesuch as a balcony, patio, terraceorprivatecourtyard. T hat might notbe the same as having a whole
H omes in
L IV IN G I T A L I A !
P h o t o g r a p h y © i S t o c k , u n l e s s s t a t e d
Prices in Venice rem ain high
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Desirable locations like San Rem o
have becom e m ore affordable
February 2016 ITALIA! 23
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T R E M E Z Z O
Type of property A p ar t m en t
Number of bedrooms 2
Price € 2 3 0 ,0 00
Location T r em e z z o
Contact C as a T ra v e ll a L t d. 0 1 3 2 2 6 6 0 9 8 8
ww w .casa t r a ve l l a . com
This lovely 2-bedroom apartment forms part of period villa of
only 4 apar tments andi s lo cated jus t a f ew st rides f rom the lake at Tremezzo , with lovely lake views and o nly jus t o ver the ho ur fro m M ilan airpo rts . The apartm ent pro vides abo ut 80s q m o f acc o mmo datio n which inc ludes a living ro o m , kitche n, 2 be dro o m s , bathro o m , and has 2 balco nie s . The pro pe rty, which s its in a q uiet area o f Tremezzo also be ne fi ts fro m a ce llar and co mmunal garde n and is be ing s o ld fully furnis hed. Although you canno t reach the pro pe rty by car, there is parking abo ut 80 metres away which can be rented to have a dedic ated spac e . This is a be autiful apartm ent,
jus t a sho rt distance fro m bo th the lake and all amenitie s and with supe rb lake view s , ideal fo r bo th pe rs o nal us e o r to pro vide rental incom e. Ref 3839 .
T H E D O L O M I T E S , V I L L A N O V A
Type of property A p ar t m e n t s
Number of bedrooms 2
Price € 2 9 0 ,0 00 – £ 3 0 0, 00 0
Location T h e D ol o m i t e s , V i l l an o v aContact Ca sa T r a ve l l a L t d . 0 13 2 2 6 6 0 9 8 8
w w w . c a sa t r av e l l a. co m
These magnifi cent 2-bedro om, 2-bathro om apartments , o f whichonly 2 remain for sale, are being built to the highest s tandards they
will be ce rtifi ed to an “A+ ” s tandard of energy effi cienc y) in the sm all town o f Villanova, Borca di Cadore , about 8km s o uth o f Co rtina d’Ampezzo in northe rn Vene to . The wo oden building use s the lates t metho ds to pro vide the highe st c omfo rt standards, inc luding triple glazing, under fl o o r heating, ceram ic tiles and a centralised pe llet-fi red boiler to achieve a maximum heating co st o f € 350 per annum.The pro perties have just be en co mp leted and are ready for o ccupatio n.Ref 34 4 8.
2 4 I T A L I A ! Feb ruary 201 6
g a r d en o r a f i el d o f o li v e t rees to c a l ly o u r o w n , b u t it w i ll r eq u i r e f a r l essl oo k i n g a f t er
A s w el l a s u su a ll y b ein g a lo tc h ea p er to b u y th a n a d eta c h edp ro p e r ty i n the sa m e loc a t i on , a na p a r t m e nt c a n a l so sa v e y ou q u i te ab i t o f mo n ey i n t h e l on g r u n . M o stB r i ti sh b u y er s i n I ta l y a r e look i ngf or a n o ld c o u n tr y h ou se to c a l l th ei rown , b u t these t y p es o f home c a nr eq u i r e q u i te a l ot of m a i n ten an c e.I f th e r o of g et s d am a g ed o r th e
elec t r i c s g o won k y , the owne r h a s toc o v er the whole cost o f thei r re p a i r .T h en th er e’s t he u p k eep o f l a n d a n d
so on . I t a l l a d d s u p . A n a p a r t m e nt ,m eanw hi le, a lm ost a lwa y s c osts lessto m a inta in. T o sta rt w ith, it ’s lessl ik el y t o h a v e st ood em p t y f or a n ysi g n i f ic a n t len g th of time , a n d m o re
l ik el y t o b e i n a g o od st a t e o f r e p a i r w hen y ou b u y it .
MAINTENANCE COSTST hen there’s the f a c t th at a l lm a intena n c e costs fo r the wholeb u i l d i n g a r e sp l i t b et w een a l l t heowners of i t s v a r i o u s a p a r tments.T h i s m ea ns th a t ex p ensi v ep r o b l ems su c h a s f i x i n g t her oof or l a n d sc a p i ng t he g r ou n d sa r e n ev er g o in g t o b e w h o ll y
y o u r r e sp o nsi b i l it y . T h e spese delcondominio or a p a r tment ex p ensesf ee, is a p r e- set a n n u a l c h a r g e p a i db y a l l a p a r t ment - ow n er s i n th esa m e b u i ld i ng t o c o v er a l l m a n n erof th in g s. T h e c l ea n i ng a n d u p k eepo f sh a r e d sp a c es su c h a s c o r r i d o r s,l i f ts a n d g a r d ens, the m a in ten an c ea n d r ep a i r o f d r a i n s, th e b o il er r o om ,the roo f an d so on – a l l these a r ec o v e red b y th e spese del condominio T h e b u r d en of c o st is sh a r e d , a n dsp re a d o v er t im e, so there’s nev er a
su d d en h u g e b i ll to fa c e a l o n e i n th e w a k e o f som ethin g g oi n g w r on g . B esu r e t o a sk y ou est a te a g en t a b ou t a n
a p a r tment ’s spese del condominiob eforey o u b u y i t.
N o te t ha t m a n y I t a l i a na p a r t men ts a r e so ld r ea d y - f u r n i sh ed .T h i s c a n sa v e y o u t he ex p en se
( a n d t ime ) of f u r n i sh i ng t h e p l a c ey o u rsel f – not to ment ion thel og i st ic a l d i ff i c u l ti es o f h a u l in gh ea v y f u r n itu r e u p to a n a p a r t m en ton a h i g her f loor . O f co u r se, i t c a na l so d en y y o u a l l t h e f u n of c h o osi n gt h e f u r n i tu r e y o u w a n t, a n d i f t hi sm a t t er s t o y o u t hen y o u sh ou l dob v i ou sl y seek a n u n fu r n ish edp ro p er t y . D o b e a w a re th a t there ’sa d i f feren ce b etween the B r i t i shc o n c e p t io n o f ‘u n f u r n i sh ed ’ a n d
Expensive problems such as fixing the roof arenever going to be wholly your responsibility
L I V I N G I T A L I A
Apartm ents can be m uch cheaper and
easier to m aintain than standalone houses
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C a sa r a ve l l a L t d
w i t h 2 5 y ea r s ex pe r i en ce
F O R E X PE RT P R O F E S S I O N A L A N D I N D E P EN D E N T A D V I C E
0VER 700 PROPERTIES IN M O ST AREAS O F ITALY
Email us at [email protected] call us on +44 (0 )1322 66 0988visit us at www.casatravella.com
Founded in 1987 on Lake C omoSpecialists in many areas of Italy
VillaLupo,ContradaM .M ontanari,LeM arche
BEA U T IF U L LY R EST O R ED A U T H E N T IC I T A L IA N V IL LA ,
W IT H PR IV A T E SW IM MIN G PO O L , L O V EL Y G A RD EN ,
W A T ER W EL L A N D BR EA T H T A K IN G 3 6 0 ° PA N O RA MA
T his former farmhouse is situated in a sp ectacular hill y landscap e 3 0 0 meters abov e sealev el) and only 2 0 minutes from the beautiful beaches of the A driatic C oast. T his gated,secluded, p rivate 2 .5 0 0 m2 p rop erty is set amongst oliv e, fruit and p ine trees and offers auniq ue and breathtaking p anorama of sw eep ing countryside and mediev al v illages.
T his lux ury 4 bedroom v illa has been comp letely and tastefully restored and comp rises4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 liv ing areas and a w ell-eq uip p ed kitchen, w ith all moderncomforts. T he p rop erty also has a w ood fired stone p izza ov en and a sep arate studio ap artment.
L E P L a w p r o v i d es c o m p r eh en si v e leg a l a d v i c e to
U K b a sed c l ien ts w i th in ter ests in I t a l y
ur legal ser ices• Real Estate acq uisitions in Italy • UK and Italian
inheritance rules, Italian and International wills,inheritance disputes in Italy • Contractual law and
legal assis tance with co ntractual disputes • Credit r eco very • Translatio n o f legal do cum ents
L E P L a w a r e ex p er t s i n n a v i g a ti n g th e
c o m p lex it ies b etw een th e I t a l i a n
a n d E n g lish l eg a l sy stem s a n d g u i d i n g y o u
th r o u g h it sea m lessly
Victo ry House, 9 9 -1 01 Regent Street, London W1 B 4 EZ
+ 4 4 0 )20 7 1 9 3 029 0en q u ir ies@ lep la w c o u k
w w w lep la w c o u k
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2 6 ITALIA!February 2016
the Italian notion of that w ord.
In gastro-m inded Italy, w here the
kitchen is a semi- sacred p lace,
v acating ow ners are likely to take
not just all their furniture w hen
they mov e out, but also their fridge,
cooker and kitchen cup boards.
D on’t ex p ect all ‘w hite goods’ to
be in p lace w hen you mov e into an
unfurnished p rop erty! Clarify w ith
your estate agent p recisely w hat w il l
and w on’t be in your new kitchen
w hen you mov e in.
CITY SLICKER
A p artm ent hom es are av ailable allov er Italy, but as you m ight ex p ect,
they are p articularly common in the
nation’s most p op ulous or desirable
sp ots – the seaside, the lakeside,
ski resorts and city centres. In all
four settings, ap artm ents offer good
v alue-for-money and generally
great holiday rental p rosp ects too.
But city -centre ap artm ents hav e
an additional clutch of adv antages.
F irstly, they can sav e you masses
of time. If w hat you w ant is a
holiday home in Italy, you can
much more q uickly get to and froma city ap artm ent than a house out
in the country. Y ou can p robably
fly directly to the city and sw iftly
reach your flat by p ublic transp ort,
rather than facing a ninety -m inute
dri v e out to a farmhouse after
you land. F req uent short v isits,
w eekends aw ay, are generally much
more feasible.
If it’s not a holiday home that
you’re after but a full- tim e new life
in I taly, a city ap artm ent makes a
w ise first mov e. It’s harder to feel
isolated, bored or lonely in a city;
there’s too much going on and too
many p eop le around. Y our Italian
language skil ls w ill get lots of
p ractice, but at the same time you’re
more likely in a city to be able to
find fellow sp eakers of Eng lish
during those tim es w hen you just
w ant to sp eak the language of home.
W hat’s more, w ith all shop s and
serv ices on your doorstep , you’ll
more q uickly get to grip s w ith the
Italian w ay of doing things than you
might out in the w ilds.
L I V I N G I T A L I A !
City life gives you the benefi ts of
having shops on your doorstep
CU P R A M A RI TT I M A
Type of property A p a r t m en tsNumber of bedrooms 1 - 2Price € 2 5 0 , 0 0 0 – € 3 5 0 , 0 0 0Location Cu p r a M a r i tt i maContact Ca s a Tr a v e ll a L td . 0 1 3 2 2 6 6 0 9 8 8 w w w .c a sa tr a v e ll a .c o m
Th ese ne w bu il d apa rt men ts are lo cat ed in an ex clu siv e be ach fr on t
locat ion in Cupra M ar i t t ima, direct ly facing and just 10 metres f rom
the beach, some 50 metres f rom both the stat ion and al l ser vices
and less than an hour f rom either P escara or A ncona airports. The
propert ies, which is in the fi nal stages of complet ion, are being
fi n ished to a v ery h igh standard and include underfl oor heat ing and
cool ing, solar panels for heated water , double g lazed w indows, and
securi ty entry phone. A partment A is on the fi rst fl oor with i ts own
independent entrance provides about 4 3 s q m of accommodation,
consist ing of a l i v ing room w ith corner k i tchen, double bedroom with
small terrace of about 11sqm facing the sea, bathroom and storage
room: € 250 ,000 . A pa rtment B i s on the g round fl oo r and p ro v ides
about 6 3 s q m of accommodation, consist ing of an entrance hal l , l i v in g
room with corner ki tchen, double bedroom, further bedroom/ study,
bathroom and storage room and garden of about 6 9 s q m part ly to lawn
and ready for automatic i r r igat ion and light ing , with a further pav ed
a rea of some 3 7 s qm fo r B B Q a rea : € 3 25 ,000 . G a rages a re a va i lab le
separately in the underground car park i f required. R ef 3 8 3 1.
V EN I CE
Type of property A p a r t m en tNumber of bedrooms 3 + 1Price € 2 ,6 0 0 , 0 0 0Location V e ni c eContact Ca s a i ta l ia I nte r na t io na l + 3 9 0 7 4 3 2 2 0 1 2 2i nf o @ c a sa i t. it w w w .c a sa i t. it
P rest ig ious apartment with elev ator located on the main fl oor of an
histor ic palazz o in the centre of V enice with a 100sq m grand salon, a
l i v ing room, s i t t ing room, kitchen, dining room, three bedrooms and
two bathrooms. Ful ly renov ated, i t is st i l l graced with or ig inal f rescoes
and fi n i sh ings . S to rage a rea o f 4 7 s q m.
A balcony will help you m ake
the m ost of the fi ne w eather
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Marnie and Cynthia
enjoying life in Rim ini
Manchester-based sisters Marnie and C ynthia W ells co-own atwo-bedroom apartment in Italy’s perennially popular A driaticseaside resort of R imini. T hey enjoy frequent visits to theapartment, together or separately with friends, and offer
holiday rentals when they’re not there.W hat drew them to Italy, and to R imini in particular? “I first came
to R imini on a friend’s crazy hen-party weekend about eight years ago,”M arnie recalls. “I hadn’t been to Italy much before then. A week in R ome,a weekend in V enice – not much beyond that, really. I had no idea what toexpect from R imini, but I loved the place immediately. It had two sides toit. T here was the hedonistic fun of the beach and the bars, but then therewas the quiet old town centre full of pretty buildings, and even some ancient
R oman bits scattered about. I loved the two different worlds existing side byside. And, of course, the weather was fantastic!
“C ynthia and I are both widows now, and I thought, ‘It’s time we hadsome fun, and did something crazy.’ So I suggested we buy a flat in R imini.To my amazement, Cynthia went for the idea straight away. W e looked intowhat holiday rentals were like in the town, and we discovered that theywere really great. W e target mainly Italian clients, as they’re the ones whomost come to R imini, and we use a locally-based agent to sort all that out,as neither of us speaks good-enough Italian. It works out well. W e tell theagent when we’re going to be visiting, so that they don’t rent out thoseweeks, and they take care of everything else.
“T he shortest visit that either of us would ever make would be aboutthree nights, I think. Yes, the journey from the airport to the apartmentis pretty short and quick, but even so, you want some proper time in
R imini to unwind and enjoy yourself. A week is better. Then there’s timeto explore other nearby places, too. W e love going inland to a little villagecalled M ontescudo where there’s one of our favourite restaurants, and wesometimes go up the coast to C esenatico or R avenna, or pop over into SanM arino for the novelty of the place.
“W e’ve met with nothing but friendliness in R imini. Yes, there are a lotof young people who come here for a wild time, but there’s still somethinga bit innocent and wholesome about the town. It’s still a great place to beif you’re older like us. T he Italians are very respectful of older people, anddon’t seem to exclude them from anything. W e’re out late at the cafés likeeveryone else. W e have a lovely time. Buying an apartment in R imini turnedout to be not so crazy after all!”
OUR APARTMEN T LIFE
P h o t o g r a p h c o u r t e s y o f M a r n i e a n d C y n t h i a W
e l l s
February 2 0 1 6 IT ALIA ! 27
Italian city apartments, likeurban homes everywhere, areparticularly good at holding theirvalue. T hey’re usually the lastproperty type to sink in price whena recession lingers. And, of course,
they rise in price when timesare good. This is because there’salmost always more demand forurban homes than there is a supply.People never stop wanting to livein cities, particularly given thatcities generally offer the greatest
job opportunities. And you can’t just keep building more and morehomes in cities to meet demand, asspace is limited. So urban homesare always a good investment.T he first-to-rise/last-to-sink pricedynamic of city properties was borneout very clearly in Italy over recentyears. As the trickle-down effectsof the international financial crisisslowly began denting propertyprices all over the country (albeitnot dramatically), it was homes inthe most coveted cities – such asRome, Venice and Florence – thatwere among the very last to sink inprice (and even then, by not quite somuch as elsewhere).
HOLIDAY RENTALSC ity apartments, as you mightexpect, enjoy particularly strong
rental prospects. Your tenants
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5
6
28 ITALIA! February 2016
L I V I N G I T A L I A !
TOP TEN CITIES FOR APARTMENTS
1
2
3
4
7
8
9
10
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Property in Naples is expensive,
but the cost of living is relatively low
February2016ITALIA!29
MILAN: population 1,300,000
•2 MilanisItaly’swealthiestandprobablybest-dressedcity.Thecapitaloffinance,
fashion,designandmedia,thisisa
business-mindedmetropolisdrivenby
cool-headedworkaholicsinrazor-sharp
suits.Sleek,fast-pacedMilanmightnotbe
physicallybeautiful(beyonditsdazzling
duomo),butitofferscomfortandquality
ateveryturn.Shopping,nightlifeand
theartssceneareworld-class,andthe
lovelynorthernlakesaren’ttoofaraway.
Milan’spropertyispricey,withone-bed
apartmentsasking€200,000,andtwo-beds
about€320,000.Lotsofoldpalazzihave
beenconvertedintostylishflats. NAPLES: population 1,000,000
•6 Magnificentlysetonabreathtakingbaybesideatotemicvolcano,Naplesisan
exuberantandthoroughlybeguilingcity.
Itscheerful,free-spiritedpopulacesmiles
inthefaceofpovertyandlaughsatthe
rulesoftheroad.Ex-patsgenerallysteer
clearofNaples,fearingitspettycrime
andtrafficchaos.Butit’sanintensely
colourfulspot,andhandilyclosetoCapri
andtheAmalfiCoast.Thefoodisglorious
andthecostoflivinglow.Lotsofpeople
wanttolivehere,andpropertyismore
expensivethanyoumightexpect.One-
bedroomapartmentsinniceareasask
around€190,000onaverage,two-beds
about€260,000.Investorsshouldconsider
long-term letstolocals.
TURIN: population 900,000
•4 EnjoyingrelativelyfreshurbanairatthefootoftheAlps,industriousTurin
haselegantboulevards,baroquepalaces,
sleekboutiquesandFrenchcuisine.It’s
anappealingandunderratedplace,with
alivelycafésceneandaccesstogreat
skiing.Theoutskirtsaredominatedby
characterlessapartmentblocks,butthe
centreisattractive.Propertypricesare
quitereasonable.One-bedapartmentsgo
for€120,000onaverage;two-bedsabout
€200,000.Long-termrentalstosouthern
Italianmigrantworkersorstudentsarea
betterbetthanshort-termletstotourists.
PALERMO: population 650,000
•5 Noisy,bustlingPalermoisSicily’scapitalandtheisland’sbiggestcity,
superblysetonawidebay.Formerlya
Mafiastronghold,it’samuchimproved
andrevitalisedplacethesedays.The
city’sarchitectureisfullofexotic
elements–testamenttoSicily’scolourful
past–andtherearelotsofattractiveold
propertiestoberestored.Government
grantscancoveryourrestorationcosts,
butapplicationscantakeyearstobe
approved.Apartmentsareinexpensive,
startingatabout€1,000persqmand
rarelygoingabove€2,500persqm.
One-bedsasklessthan€100,000.
GENOA: population 600,000
•3 Zesty,colourfulGenoahasthrivedonseabornetradefor1,500yearsand
isItaly’ssecondlargestport.Eclecticin
foodandarchitecture,thiscosmopolitan
citystretchesformilesalongitscluttered
shoreline,withthemouth-watering
resortsofcoastalLigurianevertoofar
away.Forproperty,Genoacanbeoneof
thecheapestspotsinLiguria,withlarger
propertiesofferingparticularlygood
value.One-bedroomapartmentsaskabout
€150,000onaverage;two-bedsabout
€230,000.Buyershopingtoletmight
considerlong-termtenants,aswellasthe
modestholidayrentalmarkethere.
BOLOGNA: population 380,000
•7 Inexplicablyoverlookedbyforeigntourists,Bolognaisalivelyandprosperous
citywithastrikingred-brickmedievalcentre.HometoItaly’sbestrestaurants
andEurope’soldestuniversity,Bologna
isgenial,cultured,well-pacedandeasy-
going.Itoffersaveryhighqualityof
life,butlivingcostscanbesubstantial.
Propertypriceshaverisensteadily,and
thecityisconsideredagoodinvestment.
Long-termrentalprospectsfromstudents
areverygood.One-bedroomapartments
askabout€170,000onaverage,withtwo-
bedsabout€250,000.
FLORENCE: population 370,000
•8 Stuffedfullofexquisitepaintings,sculpturesandchurches,Florenceisa
magnetforloversofRenaissanceartand
architecture.TheBritishhavelongadored
thiscapitalofTuscany,andthere’sno
shortageofthemhere,alongwithother
ex-pats.PropertypricesinFlorenceare
high,havinglongshownstable,steady
growth,butthecityisconsideredagood
investment.Touristsvisitatalltimesof
theyear,andtherearealsoinnumerable
studentstorentto.Aone-bedapartment
mightask€230,000;atwo-bed€350,000.
Forallitsloveliness,notethatFlorence
canbecrowdedandtraffic-choked.
VENICE: population 270,000
•9 Oftendeemedtheworld’smostromanticcity,Veniceisauniquelybeautifulplace
thatneverleavesyouonceyou’vevisited.
Crumbling,flood-proneanddifficultto
livein,itnonethelessdrawsthousandsof
rapturousex-patsandmillionsofdazzled
visitorseveryyear.Propertypricesaresky-
high,butholidayrentalprospectssuperb.
PricesareastronomicalontheGrand
Canal,andlowestnearthetrainandbus
stations,inCannaregio,andinother
less-touristyareas.Lovelyoldbuildingsare
generallyhigh-maintenanceand
pronetodamp.Newerdevelopmentsonthe
city’speripherycanbesleekand
well-designed.Expectmostone-bed
apartmentstoaskatleast€300,000.
PERUGIA: population 170,000
•10 Umbria’sbewitchingcapitalcityisasmallplace–befittingthisregionoftiny
settlementsfilledtothebrimwithhistoryandelegantarchitecture.Population-wise,
PerugiaisonlyItaly’s24th-biggestcity,
butitdeservesinclusionherebecause
itofferssuchgoodinvestment.It’snot
overpriced,ithaslotsoftourists,lots
ofstudents–bothgivinggoodrental
prospects–anditgiveseasyaccessto
glorioussurroundingcountryside(where
propertyismoreexpensivethaninthe
cityitself).One-bedsaveragearound
€100,000,two-beds€180,000.
ROME: population 2,750,000
•1 Italy’sbrash,loud,vibrantcapitalisaconfident,thick-skinnedplace,secure
initsachievementsandcompletely
unsurprisedtoreceive12millionvisitors
ayear.ForallRome’sexpenseand
congestion,ahighproportionofex-pats
whosettledownhere‘forawhile’never
gohomeagain.Propertypricesare,as
youwouldexpect,veryhigh.Apartments
rangefrom€2,500-€5,000persqm,
withone-bedroomplacesaskingabout
€300,000onaverage;two-bedsabout
€400,000.Holidayrentalprospectsare
excellent,asarelong-termletstostudents
orprofessionals.
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couldbelong-term(localpeople),
medium -term(studentsand
visitingbusinesspeople)orshort-
term(tourists)–dependingon
whichclienteleyouwishtotarget.
Short-termletstoholidaymakers
areparticularlyusefultoforeign
ownerssuchasyourself,becauseyou
cancomeandstayatthepropertyin
between,andarrangeclientsaround
yourownvisits.
Citypropertieshaveaspecialadvantagewhenitcomestoholiday
rentalprospects,andthat’sthe
lengthoftherentalseason.W hile
hom esinthecountryside,onthe
seasideoronthelakesidecan
generallyexpecttohaverental
clientsfromMaytoOctober,and
skihomesduringthewinter,citypropertiesgetvisitorsalltheyear
round.Plentyofpeopletakecity
breaksduringthecoldermonths