jacquard weaving

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  1. 1. Jacquard Weaving Hafeezullah Memon ZSTU, Hangzhou, China
  2. 2. Fiber Fabric A natural or synthetic filament that can be spun into yarn. A cloth made by weaving, knitting, or felting fibers.
  3. 3. Woven Fabric Woven fabrics are composed of two sets of yarns, the warp and the weft. Cloth is created by weaving the warp and the weft over and under one another. The manner in which the warp and weft are woven over and under one another determines the weave of the fabric. There are five basic weaves: Plain, Basket, Twill, Satin, Jacquard Woven fabric only stretches on the bias unless it is made from elastic fibers. Woven fabric frays unless hemmed or treated with pinking shears.
  4. 4. Warp & Weft The warp yarns run the length of the fabric. The weft yarns, also called the fill, run perpendicular to the warp yarns. Plain Weave. Wikimedia Commons, 2007.
  5. 5. Jacquard weaving Jacquard weaving makes possible in almost any loom the programmed raising of sushant each warp thread independently of the others. This brings much greater versatility to the weaving process, and offers the highest level of warp yarn control. The Jacquard process and the necessary loom attachment are named after their inventor, Joseph Marie Jacquard (17521834). This mechanism is probably one of the most important weaving inventions as Jacquard shedding made possible the automatic production of unlimited varieties of pattern weaving. The term "Jacquard" is not specific or limited to any particular loom, but rather refers to the added control mechanism that automates the patterning
  6. 6. Jacquard weaving is done on a specialized loom called a Jacquard loom. The Jacquard loom is a mechanical loom that was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1801. The jacquard loom simplifies the process of weaving complicated textile patterns with its punch card system. Silk brocade fabric, Lyon, France, 1760- 1770. Wikimedia Commons, 2006. Jacquard Weaving
  7. 7. Mechanical Jacquard looms Originally the Jacquard machines were mechanical, and the fabric design was stored in a series of punched cards which were joined together to form a continuous chain. The Jacquards often were small and only independently controlled a relatively few warp ends. This required a number of repeats across the loom width. Larger capacity machines, or the use of multiple machines, allowed greater control, with fewer repeats, and hence larger designs to be woven across the loom width.
  8. 8. Electronic Jacquard looms Bonas Machine Company Ltd. launched the first electronic Jacquard at ITMA, Milan in 1983. Although the machines were initially small, modern technology has allowed Jacquard machine capacity to increase significantly, and single end warp control can extend to more than 10,000 warp ends. This avoids the need for repeats and symmetrical designs and allows almost infinite versatility. The computer-controlled machines significantly reduce the down time associated with changing punched paper designs, thus allowing smaller batch sizes. However, electronic Jacquards are costly and may not be required in a factory weaving large batch sizes, and smaller designs.
  9. 9. Electronic Jacquard looms The larger machines allowing single end warp control are very expensive, and can only be justified where great versatility is required, or very specialized design requirements need to be met. For example, they are an ideal tool to increase the ability and stretch the versatility of the niche linen Jacquard weavers who remain active in Europe and the West, while most of the large batch commodity weaving has moved to low cost areas
  10. 10. Jacquard weaves Large figured designs that require more than 25 different arrangements of the warp yarns to complete one repeat designwoven on a jacquard loom Damask Brocade Brocatelle Jacquard tapestry Wilton rugs
  11. 11. Any Questions?

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