jewellery historian, issue # 06

-HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ

,668(

-HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ

FRQWHQWV

issue includesJH

Travel

ZZZMHZHOOHU\KLVWRULDQFRP

08-Issue Globe12-Editor's letter14-NewsNews from around the globe18-Auctions Ruby world record at Sotheby's26-Interview : Lydia Courteille36-Special ChristmasWishes from beloved jewellery designers64- Lydia CourteilleL'sprit visionaire92- Carrera y CarreraMore than 125 years of jewelry tradition106- EducationBaroque pearls of the 16th century118- Carrera y CarreraOnce upon a time134- ZOLOTASQuintessential Greek jewellery152-The unique breathtaking beauty of gemsDiamond158-Our FavesDiamond jewellery we loved this month201-JH Travel ( supplement )

cover storyinterviewLydia Courteille

-HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ -HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ

-HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ

FRQWHQWV

issue includesJH

Travel

ZZZMHZHOOHU\KLVWRULDQFRP

08-Issue Globe12-Editor's letter14-NewsNews from around the globe18-Auctions Ruby world record at Sotheby's26-Interview : Lydia Courteille36-Special ChristmasWishes from beloved jewellery designers64- Lydia CourteilleL'sprit visionaire92- Carrera y CarreraMore than 125 years of jewelry tradition106- EducationBaroque pearls of the 16th century118- Carrera y CarreraOnce upon a time134- ZOLOTASQuintessential Greek jewellery152-The unique breathtaking beauty of gemsDiamond158-Our FavesDiamond jewellery we loved this month201-JH Travel ( supplement )

cover storyinterviewLydia Courteille

i s s u e g l o b e

(MDUDQXHRRTDVDAQHMFXNTIDVDKKDQXMDVR@MCVDHMSQNCTBDXNTCDRHFMDQRAQ@MCR@MC@QSHRSRVGNRDVNQJHRDWBDOSHNM@K@MCNESGDGHFGDRSPT@KHSXHM@KK@RODBSR%QNLSGHRHRRTDVDHMSQNCTBDNTQ,VVXH*OREHSN@KKNVXNTSNENKKNVNTQBNMSQHATSNQR@MCSD@L@QNTMCSGDFKNAD MDVV@XSNENKKNVTRHMNTQ@L@YHMFINTQMDX

) 5 $ 1 & (6DSQ@UDKSN%Q@MBDSNLDDSVNQKCE@LNTR+XCH@"NTQSDHKKDENQ@MDWBKTRHUDHMSDQUHDV LNMFMTLDQNTRS@KDMSDC@MCQDMNVMIDVDKQXCDRHFMDQR+XCH@"NTQSDHKKDHRSGDNMDRDKDBSDCSNADSGDBNUDQNTQSGHRHRRTD

6 3 $ , 1"@QQDQ@X"@QQDQ@HR@MDRS@AKHRGDCAQ@MCVHSGLNQDSG@MONHMSRNER@KDHR@U@HK@AKDHMNUDQBNTMSQHDRHRQDBNFMHYDC@RNMDNESGDLNRSOQDRSHFHNTRIDVDKQXAQ@MCRHMSGDVNQKCG@RHSRGD@CPT@QSDQRKNB@SDCHM,@CQHC@MCHSRVNQJRGNOHRBNMRHCDQDCNMDNESGDADRSHMSGDVNQKC

* 5 ( ( & (9NKNS@RGNTRDNEIDVDKRG@RADDML@JHMFGHRSNQXHMSGD#DBNQ@SHUD QSRRHMBD6HSGLNQDSG@M@BDMSTQXNEDWODQHDMBDHMSGD@QSNE)DVDKQXFDMDQ@SHNMRNEBQ@ESRLDML@M@FDCSNQDUHUD@MBHDMS&QDDJFNKCRLHSGSDBGMHPTDR@MCOK@BDSGDLHMSGDBNMSDWSNEBNMSDLONQ@QXKTWTQX@MCLNCDQMCDRHFMRDMRTQHMF@VNMCDQETKQDRTKS

6 X S S O H P H Q W(MDUDQXHRRTDVDSQ@UDKHM@L@YHMFBHSHDR@MCVDRS@XHMKTWTQXGNSDKR3GHRLNMSGVD@QDOQNTCSNHMSQNCTBDXNTNTQMDVSQ@UDKRTOOKDLDMS)'[email protected]@MRVDQRSNSGDMDDCRNENTQQD@CDQRVGNV@MSSNDWODQHDMBDCDCHB@SDCRDQUHBDDWBDOSHNM@KBNLENQS@MCTMCDQRS@SDCDKDF@MBDHMDUDQXRS@FDNESGDHQINTQMDX

JH Travel

i s s u e g l o b e

(MDUDQXHRRTDVDAQHMFXNTIDVDKKDQXMDVR@MCVDHMSQNCTBDXNTCDRHFMDQRAQ@MCR@MC@QSHRSRVGNRDVNQJHRDWBDOSHNM@K@MCNESGDGHFGDRSPT@KHSXHM@KK@RODBSR%QNLSGHRHRRTDVDHMSQNCTBDNTQ,VVXH*OREHSN@KKNVXNTSNENKKNVNTQBNMSQHATSNQR@MCSD@L@QNTMCSGDFKNAD MDVV@XSNENKKNVTRHMNTQ@L@YHMFINTQMDX

) 5 $ 1 & (6DSQ@UDKSN%Q@MBDSNLDDSVNQKCE@LNTR+XCH@"NTQSDHKKDENQ@MDWBKTRHUDHMSDQUHDV LNMFMTLDQNTRS@KDMSDC@MCQDMNVMIDVDKQXCDRHFMDQR+XCH@"NTQSDHKKDHRSGDNMDRDKDBSDCSNADSGDBNUDQNTQSGHRHRRTD

6 3 $ , 1"@QQDQ@X"@QQDQ@HR@MDRS@AKHRGDCAQ@MCVHSGLNQDSG@MONHMSRNER@KDHR@U@HK@AKDHMNUDQBNTMSQHDRHRQDBNFMHYDC@RNMDNESGDLNRSOQDRSHFHNTRIDVDKQXAQ@MCRHMSGDVNQKCG@RHSRGD@CPT@QSDQRKNB@SDCHM,@CQHC@MCHSRVNQJRGNOHRBNMRHCDQDCNMDNESGDADRSHMSGDVNQKC

* 5 ( ( & (9NKNS@RGNTRDNEIDVDKRG@RADDML@JHMFGHRSNQXHMSGD#DBNQ@SHUD QSRRHMBD6HSGLNQDSG@M@BDMSTQXNEDWODQHDMBDHMSGD@QSNE)DVDKQXFDMDQ@SHNMRNEBQ@ESRLDML@M@FDCSNQDUHUD@MBHDMS&QDDJFNKCRLHSGSDBGMHPTDR@MCOK@BDSGDLHMSGDBNMSDWSNEBNMSDLONQ@QXKTWTQX@MCLNCDQMCDRHFMRDMRTQHMF@VNMCDQETKQDRTKS

6 X S S O H P H Q W(MDUDQXHRRTDVDSQ@UDKHM@L@YHMFBHSHDR@MCVDRS@XHMKTWTQXGNSDKR3GHRLNMSGVD@QDOQNTCSNHMSQNCTBDXNTNTQMDVSQ@UDKRTOOKDLDMS)'[email protected]@MRVDQRSNSGDMDDCRNENTQQD@CDQRVGNV@MSSNDWODQHDMBDCDCHB@SDCRDQUHBDDWBDOSHNM@KBNLENQS@MCTMCDQRS@SDCDKDF@MBDHMDUDQXRS@FDNESGDHQINTQMDX

JH Travel

I am a person living with HIV. I face these issues.

WORLD AIDS DAY

1 DECEMBER

2014

I am proud to help my peers living with HIV

I have no one who

understands

I have a right to dignified

care

I had the courage to seek treatment

and care

I face discrimination from health staff

I am scared that I will lose my job

I do not have access to treatment

I may have tuberculosis

I amcriminalized

My family may reject me

I can be arrested for exposing my

partner to HIV

My status was disclosed

without my consent

Source: UNAIDS

-HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ

&/26(7+(*$32Q'HFHPEHUKHOSWRFORVHWKHJDSWRHQGWKH$,'6HSLGHPLFE\

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

-HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ

Jewellery gives you experience glamour, luxury, and elegance. With theright jewellery you can cherish the special memories and intimate luxurythat a real piece of jewelry will bring to you on important days of your life. Our readers travel worldwide and throughout their journey, they want toenjoy amenities and services designed to help them to rest easy or getdown to business. For this reason we created our new travel supplement. Our new travel supplement answers to the needs of our readers, whowant to experience dedicated service, exceptional comfort andunderstated elegance in every stage of their journey. This special issue, is our first December issue and we are so proud andhappy to celebrate the holidays with all you. You are so many around theglobe and I would like to thank you for your precious love and support. At the Jewellery Historian, every month, we handpick the finest jewelryfor you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch tothe most important times of your life. At this issue, we focus on diamonds. Our "diamonds" are the talentedjewellery designers and they send you their wishes and seasongreetings. We handpick for you the most beautiful diamond jewellery for"our faves". A special issue, made with lot of love, for you all, our preciousreaders.Thank you for your friendship, your loyalty and the opportunity tobe a part of your life. Our best wishes for a happy holiday season and aprosperous, happy new year !

,668(

Jewellery gives you experience glamour, luxury, and elegance. With theright jewellery you can cherish the special memories and intimate luxurythat a real piece of jewelry will bring to you on important days of your life. Our readers travel worldwide and throughout their journey, they want toenjoy amenities and services designed to help them to rest easy or getdown to business. For this reason we created our new travel supplement. Our new travel supplement answers to the needs of our readers, whowant to experience dedicated service, exceptional comfort andunderstated elegance in every stage of their journey. This special issue, is our first December issue and we are so proud andhappy to celebrate the holidays with all you. You are so many around theglobe and I would like to thank you for your precious love and support. At the Jewellery Historian, every month, we handpick the finest jewelryfor you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch tothe most important times of your life. At this issue, we focus on diamonds. Our "diamonds" are the talentedjewellery designers and they send you their wishes and seasongreetings. We handpick for you the most beautiful diamond jewellery for"our faves". A special issue, made with lot of love, for you all, our preciousreaders.Thank you for your friendship, your loyalty and the opportunity tobe a part of your life. Our best wishes for a happy holiday season and aprosperous, happy new year !

,668(

news

$'/(5819(,/6,761(:%287,48(,1*67$$'This year, Adler is changing its Gstaad address.Previously located on Lauenenstrasse, the newboutique will open its doors on 20th December 2014at number 74 on the Promenade. This pedestrian streetand historic Gstaad location welcomes the jewellerinto a new, exclusive and prestigious setting. Customers will be able to discover unique HauteJoaillerie creations and Adlers collections in a 100 m2space, where the brands identity blends seamlesslywith the refined location. Divided into small rooms for more intimacy during yourvisit, the boutique also offers a bright andcontemporary atmosphere. Adlers signature tones ofred and cream, the exposed woodwork and walnutflooring create a warm welcome and reflect Gstaadsidentity as an iconic Alpine resort. This is a unique andauthentic space that Adler is delighted to present to itscustomers. About Adler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dler has six boutiques around the world, wherecustomers can discover its creations: Geneva, Gstaad,Hong Kong, London, Tokyo and Doha.

-(:(//(5

$'/(5819(,/6,761(:%287,48(,1*67$$'This year, Adler is changing its Gstaad address.Previously located on Lauenenstrasse, the newboutique will open its doors on 20th December 2014at number 74 on the Promenade. This pedestrian streetand historic Gstaad location welcomes the jewellerinto a new, exclusive and prestigious setting. Customers will be able to discover unique HauteJoaillerie creations and Adlers collections in a 100 m2space, where the brands identity blends seamlesslywith the refined location. Divided into small rooms for more intimacy during yourvisit, the boutique also offers a bright andcontemporary atmosphere. Adlers signature tones ofred and cream, the exposed woodwork and walnutflooring create a warm welcome and reflect Gstaadsidentity as an iconic Alpine resort. This is a unique andauthentic space that Adler is delighted to present to itscustomers. About Adler 2HMBD CKDQ G@R ADDM @ '@TSD )N@HKKDQHD AQ@MCMDRSKDC @S SGD UDQX GD@QS NE SGD FQD@S SQ@CHSHNMR NEFNKCRLHSGDQX @MC IDVDKKDQX %NQLNQD SG@M @ BDMSTQX HSG@R DMRTQDC DWODQSHRD @MC DWBDKKDMBD CQ@VHMF HSRHMROHQ@SHNM EQNLGTL@MHSXR FQD@SDRS @QSHRSHBVNQJR @MCBTKSTQDR"QD@SHUD @MC HMMNU@SHUD CKDQ OQDRDMSR DWBDOSHNM@K@MC SHLDKDRR OHDBDR SG@S DLANCX QDEHMDLDMSDWBKTRHUHSX @MC L@CDSNLD@RTQD CDRHFM M CKDQIDVDKKDQX BQD@SHNM HR @ KTWTQX HSDL O@Q DWBDKKDMBD @TMHPTD @MC DWBKTRHUD NAIDBS SG@S CHEEDQR EQNLGNLNFDMDNTROQNCTBSRAdler has six boutiques around the world, wherecustomers can discover its creations: Geneva, Gstaad,Hong Kong, London, Tokyo and Doha.

-(:(//(5

RUBY WORLD AUCTION RECORD AT

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

!

AUCTIONS

The Graff Ruby, AGem among Gems Sells for CHF 8.3 million($8.6 million), WorldAuction Record for aRuby

Pho

to c

ourt

esy

of S

OTH

EBY

'S

SO

THEB

Y'S

RUBY WORLD AUCTION RECORD AT

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

!

AUCTIONS

The Graff Ruby, AGem among Gems Sells for CHF 8.3 million($8.6 million), WorldAuction Record for aRuby

Pho

to c

ourt

esy

of S

OTH

EBY

'S

SO

THEB

Y'S

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

David Bennett auctioneering the Graff RubyPhoto courtesy of SOTHEBY'S SOTHEBY'S

-HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ

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

David Bennett auctioneering the Graff RubyPhoto courtesy of SOTHEBY'S SOTHEBY'S

-HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ

672367,*0$' ( & ( 0 % ( 5 :25/'$,'6'$

0\DPELWLRQLVWROHDYHEHKLQGPHVRPHWKLQJPRUHWKDQMXVWDSLHFHRIMHZHOU\DFUHDWLRQWKDWZLOOPDUNDFHUWDLQWLPHSHULRG7KLVLVDZD\IRUPHWRFRSHIRULPPRUWDOLW\WKHZD\WRH[SUHVVP\UHEHOOLRQ

MEETING LYDIACOURTEILLE

FRYHUVWRU\

,QWHUYLHZWR/XFDV6DPDOWDQRV)HUULHU

The most important names in fashion and thearts are openly your fans. How did you start yourcareer? After science studies I found myself in jewelryand antiquities field by a pure chanceI had topass a gemology license, though, beforelaunching my own brand. Each collection you make shows us youramazing creative universe. Where do you getyour inspiration? I travel a lot which is an amazing source ofinspiration for me! I am also fascinated byarchology and civilisation studies! I collectstones and fossils since I am eight so my initialidea of jewelry is to reconcile natures andhuman creativity! Which is the artistic or historical period youconsider a great source of inspiration. 18th century in Europe Are there any persons in art, fashion,architecture and design that inspire you withtheir work? I love Art Deco, particularry R. Mallet-Stevensarchitecture. I admire Van Goghs emotionalpainting, French decorator MadelaineCastaing for her indefinable blue, Janine Janetfor her incredible shell sculptures, illustratorChristian Berard for the impact he made oncontemporary perception of fashion, decoratorLeila Menchari for her astonishing set designs.

Which are your favorite materials? Whichmaterials and techniques your favor? I love working with gold. I use a lot of blackenedgold in my creations. Also precious stoneswith strong and contrasted colors. Which material you believe that you will neverstop using in your collections? I love and will always be using colored stone sapphires, diamonds. I am sure to stay alwaysloyal to my favorite opals! What according to you contributed to yoursuccess? I think it is my unconventionality, myboldness. The generosity that makes meshare my culture, my emotions through myjewelry. I like to make my customers discover things,initiate and provoke amazement. What do you like most about being a jewelrydesigner? My ambition is to leave behind me somethingmore than just a piece of jewelry a creationthat will mark a certain time period. This is a wayfor me to cope for immortality- the way toexpress my rebellion. Your heroes in real life? People taking care of others without askinganything in return. >

0\DPELWLRQLVWROHDYHEHKLQGPHVRPHWKLQJPRUHWKDQMXVWDSLHFHRIMHZHOU\DFUHDWLRQWKDWZLOOPDUNDFHUWDLQWLPHSHULRG7KLVLVDZD\IRUPHWRFRSHIRULPPRUWDOLW\WKHZD\WRH[SUHVVP\UHEHOOLRQ

MEETING LYDIACOURTEILLE

FRYHUVWRU\

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE+8#( ".

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

>What according to you contributed to yoursuccess? I think it is my unconventionality, my boldness.The generosity that makes me share my culture,my emotions through my jewelry. I like to make my customers discover things,initiate and provoke amazement. What do you like most about being a jewelrydesigner? My ambition is to leave behind me somethingmore than just a pice of jewelry a creation thatwill mark a certain time period. This is a way forme to cope for immortality- the way to expressmy rebellion. The most valuable lesson you have learned untiltoday? To make the most of the moment and sharehappiness with those who are worth it! How do you define luxury? Luxury is something we do not actually need, butthat makes one happy whenever it is acquired! Do you think that there is a relation betweenfashion and jewellery design? 100% Which fashion designers inspire you with theirwork? ALAIA for his independence and architecturalapproach, Marni - for boldness of colorcombination and irony, Karl Lagerfeld for hisenergy and erudition. Are men more open-minded about wearingjewellery than they used to be? Probably Do you believe that a man should wear jewellery ? YES HE CAN>

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

>What according to you contributed to yoursuccess? I think it is my unconventionality, my boldness.The generosity that makes me share my culture,my emotions through my jewelry. I like to make my customers discover things,initiate and provoke amazement. What do you like most about being a jewelrydesigner? My ambition is to leave behind me somethingmore than just a pice of jewelry a creation thatwill mark a certain time period. This is a way forme to cope for immortality- the way to expressmy rebellion. The most valuable lesson you have learned untiltoday? To make the most of the moment and sharehappiness with those who are worth it! How do you define luxury? Luxury is something we do not actually need, butthat makes one happy whenever it is acquired! Do you think that there is a relation betweenfashion and jewellery design? 100% Which fashion designers inspire you with theirwork? ALAIA for his independence and architecturalapproach, Marni - for boldness of colorcombination and irony, Karl Lagerfeld for hisenergy and erudition. Are men more open-minded about wearingjewellery than they used to be? Probably Do you believe that a man should wear jewellery ? YES HE CAN>

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$ /G

NSNBNTQSDRXNE+

8#( ".413

$(++$g+8#

( ".413

$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$ /G

NSNBNTQSDRXNE+

8#( ".413

$(++$g+8#

( ".413

$(++$

-HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ

>Which piece of jewellery every person should wear ? Ring and earrings Could you please tell us about your latest collection? My latest collection is inspired by kites. Those aregracious, easy to wear and very colorful earrings,which I propose to wear on one-ear only! Which is the destination that you find the mostinspiring? India & Ethiopia Which is your favorite destination for summerholidays and which is your favorite for Christmas ? Last one was India. Next will be Patagonia Your favorite addresses ? Alaia boutique for dresses. Martine de Richeville forher fantastic therapeutical massage. Hotels Costesrestaurant for dinner, Saint James DAlbanie forlunch. Galeries Lafayette or Bon March to make aquick fashio update. Avenue Montaigne forshopping and especially Marni boutique. What we should expect from you in the future? My book to be published. Could you tell us about your upcoming projects? Collaboration with Paris Museum of DecorativeArts Your favorite motto? "Le Bonheur se reconnait au bruit quil fait quand ilsen va" by Tristan Bernard Which is your advice to young and aspiring jewellerydesigners? I dont know. I create jewelry like others write poems byMadelaine Castaing

-HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

-HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ

>Which piece of jewellery every person should wear ? Ring and earrings Could you please tell us about your latest collection? My latest collection is inspired by kites. Those aregracious, easy to wear and very colorful earrings,which I propose to wear on one-ear only! Which is the destination that you find the mostinspiring? India & Ethiopia Which is your favorite destination for summerholidays and which is your favorite for Christmas ? Last one was India. Next will be Patagonia Your favorite addresses ? Alaia boutique for dresses. Martine de Richeville forher fantastic therapeutical massage. Hotels Costesrestaurant for dinner, Saint James DAlbanie forlunch. Galeries Lafayette or Bon March to make aquick fashio update. Avenue Montaigne forshopping and especially Marni boutique. What we should expect from you in the future? My book to be published. Could you tell us about your upcoming projects? Collaboration with Paris Museum of DecorativeArts Your favorite motto? "Le Bonheur se reconnait au bruit quil fait quand ilsen va" by Tristan Bernard Which is your advice to young and aspiring jewellerydesigners? I dont know. I create jewelry like others write poems byMadelaine Castaing

-HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

6HDVRQ*UHHWLQJV7DOHQWHGDQGJUHDWGHVLJQHUVXQLTXHEUDQGVWKDWZHORYHVHQGWKHLUVHDVRQJUHHWLQJVWRXVDOO7KHLUZLVKHVIRUDKDSS\QHZ\HDUDQGKDSS\KROLGD\VWRDOORXU\RXRXUSUHFLRXVUHDGHUV

&$55(5$

0$852)(/7(5

$8'5(

)$5$+.+$1$/,

/(

('',(/(9,$1

/

6(7+,&28785(

0253+((-2$,//(5,(

6

%$

-(:(//(5

SURPRWLRQ

HGXFDWLRQ

LQVSLUDWLRQ

MRLQXVWRGD\

ZZZIDFHERRNFRPMHZHOU\KLVWRULDQ

SURPRWLRQ

HGXFDWLRQ

LQVSLUDWLRQ

MRLQXVWRGD\

ZZZIDFHERRNFRPMHZHOU\KLVWRULDQ

L ' s p r i t v i s i o n a i r e

Lydia Courteille

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

m7RVWDUWFUHDWLQJ\RXKDYHWREHUHEHOOLRXVFRXUDJHRXVHQRXJKWRUHIXVHZKDWKDVDOUHDG\EHHQHVWDEOLVKHG}

Lydia Courteille

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

m7RVWDUWFUHDWLQJ\RXKDYHWREHUHEHOOLRXVFRXUDJHRXVHQRXJKWRUHIXVHZKDWKDVDOUHDG\EHHQHVWDEOLVKHG}

Taking a stroll along the rue Saint Honor, a stones throw from the PlaceVendmeinParis,LydiaCourteillessmallboutiquestandsoutas abeaconto all jewellery connoisseurs and gemstone lovers. Here flamboyant andtheatrical design meets rarity.

Parisian born Lydia Courteille is very passionate; her principalambition is to share her courage and extravaganza bycreating jewels; possessing a lot of humour and imagination. Expert in gemology and history, lover of nature and symbols,Lydia Courteille creates one-of-a-kind Conversationaljewelry pieces. She was also one of the first to re-introduce incontemporary jewelry the eternal symbol of passing time- the skull, alias; Vanitas. As a real visionary, Lydia Courteille is never in fashion - she isahead of it. Courageous in her creativity, she constantly developsdesigns for several permanent collections, as well aseloborating new ones in parallel..>

Lydia Courteille

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

KKF

Q@OG

HBRHMSG

HR@QSHBKD@QDEQNL

SGDOT

AKHBCNL

@HM

Taking a stroll along the rue Saint Honor, a stones throw from the PlaceVendmeinParis,LydiaCourteillessmallboutiquestandsoutas abeaconto all jewellery connoisseurs and gemstone lovers. Here flamboyant andtheatrical design meets rarity.

Parisian born Lydia Courteille is very passionate; her principalambition is to share her courage and extravaganza bycreating jewels; possessing a lot of humour and imagination. Expert in gemology and history, lover of nature and symbols,Lydia Courteille creates one-of-a-kind Conversationaljewelry pieces. She was also one of the first to re-introduce incontemporary jewelry the eternal symbol of passing time- the skull, alias; Vanitas. As a real visionary, Lydia Courteille is never in fashion - she isahead of it. Courageous in her creativity, she constantly developsdesigns for several permanent collections, as well aseloborating new ones in parallel..>

Lydia Courteille/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE+8#

( ".413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

KKF

Q@OG

HBRHMSG

HR@QSHBKD@QDEQNL

SGDOT

AKHBCNL

@HM

>Lydia Courteille works in collaboration with artisansthrough-out the world. Lydia Courteilles workshops are situated around the world inorder to benefit from the most varied and high qualitytechniques provided by contemporary artisans. She preserves a cultural heritage by using in the production ofher designs local techniques, in order to maintain aworkshops speciality. Lydia Courteille is strongly focused in collecting some of themost extraordinary precious stones and the most unusualmaterials for unique jewelry designs. Each collection by Lydia Courteille represents a universe: 2DBQDS &@QCDM 3N "@RR@MCQ@ !DRSH@QX EQHB@M 5@MHSHDR$RNSDQHBHRL"@LDNRSGDSG2HFM@MCSGD"TQHNRHSX"@AHMDS&@QCDMRNE7NBGHLHKBN L@YNMH@VHSGHMD@BGXNTVHKK EHMC@MHMEHMHS@LNTMSNEOHDBDR-DVL@SDQH@KR @R VDKK @R OQDBHNTR FDLR NESDM RDQUD @R @ EHQRSHMROHQ@SHNM ENQ SGD BNKKDBSHNM K@FTM@ AKTD NO@KR EQNL /DQTO@Q@HA@ SNTQL@KHMDR EQNLAQ@YHK i'@HQNE5DMTRy QNBJBQXRS@KRFQDDMSTQPTNHRDEQNL3TQJLDMHRS@MDSB!

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

>Lydia Courteille works in collaboration with artisansthrough-out the world. Lydia Courteilles workshops are situated around the world inorder to benefit from the most varied and high qualitytechniques provided by contemporary artisans. She preserves a cultural heritage by using in the production ofher designs local techniques, in order to maintain aworkshops speciality. Lydia Courteille is strongly focused in collecting some of themost extraordinary precious stones and the most unusualmaterials for unique jewelry designs. Each collection by Lydia Courteille represents a universe: 2DBQDS &@QCDM 3N "@RR@MCQ@ !DRSH@QX EQHB@M 5@MHSHDR$RNSDQHBHRL"@LDNRSGDSG2HFM@MCSGD"TQHNRHSX"@AHMDS&@QCDMRNE7NBGHLHKBN L@YNMH@VHSGHMD@BGXNTVHKK EHMC@MHMEHMHS@LNTMSNEOHDBDR-DVL@SDQH@KR @R VDKK @R OQDBHNTR FDLR NESDM RDQUD @R @ EHQRSHMROHQ@SHNM ENQ SGD BNKKDBSHNM K@FTM@ AKTD NO@KR EQNL /DQTO@Q@HA@ SNTQL@KHMDR EQNLAQ@YHK i'@HQNE5DMTRy QNBJBQXRS@KRFQDDMSTQPTNHRDEQNL3TQJLDMHRS@MDSB!

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

>The collection by Lydia Courteille are often influced byantique jewelry: such as anitique cameos set in baroquestyled rings. The brands collections are always very different,nevertheless they retain natural, historical or symbolicalreferences. They are extremely luxurious and spiritual - every time. Even though Lydia Courteille fascinates the fashion worldwith her advertising campaigns she stands apart from theimages we are used to seeing in the fashion press and media.The fairy-tale like ambiance, bold and disturbing images areLydia Courteilles signatures. Glamour is pushed to itsextreme; the drama and suspense make these images almostas surreal as a fantastic vision. Lydia imagines the women who are going to wear her jewelry:strong, mystical, liberated and ready to assume, fragile andfeminine at the same time. Lydia Courteilles clients appreciate the dual personality ofher jewels; they express at the same time a sense of uneaseand an overwhelming happiness. One of the most striking examples of a project collaboration isLydia Courteilles website CDRHFM CDUDKNOODC VHSG SGD+HSGT@MH@M @QSHRS -@SG@KHD 2G@T VGNR CHFHS@K @QSVNQJQDOQDRDMS RTQQD@K @MC RSQ@MFD VNLDM 'DQ BG@Q@BSDQR @QDRSQNMF @MC ONVDQETK @S SGD R@LD SHLD ITRS KHJD +XCH@"NTQSDHKKDRIDVDKQXThe result - nine fascinating illustrations for each of LydiaCourteilles emblematic collections combining fairy tale,

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

>The collection by Lydia Courteille are often influced byantique jewelry: such as anitique cameos set in baroquestyled rings. The brands collections are always very different,nevertheless they retain natural, historical or symbolicalreferences. They are extremely luxurious and spiritual - every time. Even though Lydia Courteille fascinates the fashion worldwith her advertising campaigns she stands apart from theimages we are used to seeing in the fashion press and media.The fairy-tale like ambiance, bold and disturbing images areLydia Courteilles signatures. Glamour is pushed to itsextreme; the drama and suspense make these images almostas surreal as a fantastic vision. Lydia imagines the women who are going to wear her jewelry:strong, mystical, liberated and ready to assume, fragile andfeminine at the same time. Lydia Courteilles clients appreciate the dual personality ofher jewels; they express at the same time a sense of uneaseand an overwhelming happiness. One of the most striking examples of a project collaboration isLydia Courteilles website CDRHFM CDUDKNOODC VHSG SGD+HSGT@MH@M @QSHRS -@SG@KHD 2G@T VGNR CHFHS@K @QSVNQJQDOQDRDMS RTQQD@K @MC RSQ@MFD VNLDM 'DQ BG@Q@BSDQR @QDRSQNMF @MC ONVDQETK @S SGD R@LD SHLD ITRS KHJD +XCH@"NTQSDHKKDRIDVDKQXThe result - nine fascinating illustrations for each of LydiaCourteilles emblematic collections combining fairy tale,

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE+

8#( ".413

$(++$g+8#

( ".413

$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE+

8#( ".413

$(++$g+8#

( ".413

$(++$

>Lydia Courteilles creativity, the baroque character ofher jewelry and its bold attitude was subject tonumerous fruitful collaborations with many talentedartists. Her jewelry has been solicitated for Woody Allensmovie, Midnight in Paris, for the publicity campaigne ofYves Saint Laurents perfume Opium, for variousfashion shows by Carven, Alexis Mabille, Prada andMcQueen for Givenchy,in collaboration with the digital artist Nathlie Shau,with Roxanne Rodriguez for interior design, evenBettina Rheims in a photography project depictingParis. The international jewelry show Couture reunitesevery year in America the most re- markable jewelers inthe world.In 2012 Lydia Courteille was debuting in the event,presenting her latest collection Amazonia. The prestigious members of the jury (Susan Abels,Stephen Webster, Janice Blumberg, Eric Ford, ClaudiaMata & Alison Rowe) selected from over 200participants the most innovative, creative and bolddesigns. Lydia Courteille was chosen award winner as the bestcolored gemstone Design for the green turquoisebracelet with diamonds, emeralds and green garnets.>

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

>Lydia Courteilles creativity, the baroque character ofher jewelry and its bold attitude was subject tonumerous fruitful collaborations with many talentedartists. Her jewelry has been solicitated for Woody Allensmovie, Midnight in Paris, for the publicity campaigne ofYves Saint Laurents perfume Opium, for variousfashion shows by Carven, Alexis Mabille, Prada andMcQueen for Givenchy,in collaboration with the digital artist Nathlie Shau,with Roxanne Rodriguez for interior design, evenBettina Rheims in a photography project depictingParis. The international jewelry show Couture reunitesevery year in America the most re- markable jewelers inthe world.In 2012 Lydia Courteille was debuting in the event,presenting her latest collection Amazonia. The prestigious members of the jury (Susan Abels,Stephen Webster, Janice Blumberg, Eric Ford, ClaudiaMata & Alison Rowe) selected from over 200participants the most innovative, creative and bolddesigns. Lydia Courteille was chosen award winner as the bestcolored gemstone Design for the green turquoisebracelet with diamonds, emeralds and green garnets.>

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

>A recent and important collaboration influenced therenovation of Lydia Courteilles Parisian boutique RueSaint Honor. %NQ SGD O@RS XD@QR SGD ANTSHPTDR @SLNROGDQD G@RADDM HMROHQDC EQNL @MSHPTD BTQHNRHSX B@AHMDSR VHSGQDEDQDMBDR SN RXLANKHRL M@STQD GHRSNQX @MCFDLNKNFX3GD CDDO QNX@K AKTD AK@BJ @MC FNKC BNKNQR BQD@SD @LXRSHB@KLNNC(M VGDM +XCH@"NTQSDHKKDLDS SGD S@KDMSDC HMSDQHNQCDBNQ@SNQ 1NW@MD 1NCQHFTDY RGD F@UD GDQ @ MN KHLHSRANTMC@QXSNFHUD@MDVEK@HQSNSGDEK@FRGHORSNQDRoxanne Rodriguez kept the main codes of theboutiquesappearance,andre-createdanatmosphereoftimeless luxury.

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE+

8#( ".413

$(++$g+8#

( ".413

$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

>A recent and important collaboration influenced therenovation of Lydia Courteilles Parisian boutique RueSaint Honor. %NQ SGD O@RS XD@QR SGD ANTSHPTDR @SLNROGDQD G@RADDM HMROHQDC EQNL @MSHPTD BTQHNRHSX B@AHMDSR VHSGQDEDQDMBDR SN RXLANKHRL M@STQD GHRSNQX @MCFDLNKNFX3GD CDDO QNX@K AKTD AK@BJ @MC FNKC BNKNQR BQD@SD @LXRSHB@KLNNC(M VGDM +XCH@"NTQSDHKKDLDS SGD S@KDMSDC HMSDQHNQCDBNQ@SNQ 1NW@MD 1NCQHFTDY RGD F@UD GDQ @ MN KHLHSRANTMC@QXSNFHUD@MDVEK@HQSNSGDEK@FRGHORSNQDRoxanne Rodriguez kept the main codes of theboutiquesappearance,andre-createdanatmosphereoftimeless luxury.

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE+

8#( ".413

$(++$g+8#

( ".413

$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

7LPHOLQH 1980In the hope of repairing an old wrist watch, Lydia COurteille frequentlyvisits and antique jeweler, where she will discover her passion for jewelry. 1981The begining of Lydia Courteilles journey into the jewelry world. 1985Her curiosity for antique jewelry encourages her to obtain her degree as acertified gem- mologist. 1987Lydia Courteilles first boutique opens on rue Duphot. She is then apassionate collector of 18th Century jewelry sets and jewelry piecescreated by Suzanne Belperron. 1989For her most loyal customers Lydia Courteille starts creating custom madepieces. The boutique carries the signboard Bijoux Anciens & Crations. 1993Lydia Courteille moves her boutique to rue Saint Honor in Paris and willrapidly gain the reputation as a jewelers cabinet of curiosity. 2004Lydia Courteille established her first international retailing in America,Russia and Hong Kong. 2007Lydia Courteilles creations step up onto the catwalk with Givenchy andAlexi Mabilles hautre couture collection, they are also exposed during thePrada boutique presention and begins to be coveted by Internationalpress. 2009In collaboration with the Lithuanian digital artist Nathalie Shau, thewebsite www.lydiacourteille.com is created. 2010The sale of her one-of-a-kind pieces expand all around the world. 2011Lydia Courteille opens her first franchise store in Moscow.Newly re-decorated by the talented Roxanne Rodriguez, the boutique rueSaint Honor becomes the envy of interior design.

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

7LPHOLQH 1980In the hope of repairing an old wrist watch, Lydia COurteille frequentlyvisits and antique jeweler, where she will discover her passion for jewelry. 1981The begining of Lydia Courteilles journey into the jewelry world. 1985Her curiosity for antique jewelry encourages her to obtain her degree as acertified gem- mologist. 1987Lydia Courteilles first boutique opens on rue Duphot. She is then apassionate collector of 18th Century jewelry sets and jewelry piecescreated by Suzanne Belperron. 1989For her most loyal customers Lydia Courteille starts creating custom madepieces. The boutique carries the signboard Bijoux Anciens & Crations. 1993Lydia Courteille moves her boutique to rue Saint Honor in Paris and willrapidly gain the reputation as a jewelers cabinet of curiosity. 2004Lydia Courteille established her first international retailing in America,Russia and Hong Kong. 2007Lydia Courteilles creations step up onto the catwalk with Givenchy andAlexi Mabilles hautre couture collection, they are also exposed during thePrada boutique presention and begins to be coveted by Internationalpress. 2009In collaboration with the Lithuanian digital artist Nathalie Shau, thewebsite www.lydiacourteille.com is created. 2010The sale of her one-of-a-kind pieces expand all around the world. 2011Lydia Courteille opens her first franchise store in Moscow.Newly re-decorated by the talented Roxanne Rodriguez, the boutique rueSaint Honor becomes the envy of interior design.

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

www.lydiacourteille.com

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

www.lydiacourteille.com

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

413$(++$g

+8#( ".

413$(++$

%1$$

MORE THAN 125 YEARS OF JEWELRY TRADITION

Carrera y Carrera

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

Its jewelry tradition and exceptional craftsmanship have made Carrera yCarrera one of the international references among jewelry brands,renowned as one of the 30 most prestigious jewelry firms in the world. Thebrand has become an icon of luxury due to its unique style, imaginativedesigns, and magnificent jewelry pieces where gold and precious stonescome to life.

MORE THAN 125 YEARS OF JEWELRY TRADITION

Carrera y Carrera

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

Its jewelry tradition and exceptional craftsmanship have made Carrera yCarrera one of the international references among jewelry brands,renowned as one of the 30 most prestigious jewelry firms in the world. Thebrand has become an icon of luxury due to its unique style, imaginativedesigns, and magnificent jewelry pieces where gold and precious stonescome to life.

(M SGD SG @MC SG BDMSTQHDR MTLDQNTROHDBDR NE IDVDKQX @MC @ U@QHDSX NE OQDBHNTRRSNMDRVDQD RDMS SN 2O@HM EQNL SGD (MCHDR3GHR V@R GNV 2O@HMR L@RSDQ FNKCRLHSGREHQRS@BPTHQDCSGDHQDWODQSHRD(MROHQDC AX SGHR KNMF KHMD NE DWODQSIDVDKDQR "@QQDQ@ X "@QQDQ@ BQD@SDCHMMNU@SHUD SDBGMHPTDR ENQ SQD@SHMF FNKC3NC@X BDMSTQHDR K@SDQ SGD EHQLR L@RSDQFNKCRLHSGR BNMSHMTD SN MTQSTQD @MCODQEDBS SGDHQ L@FMHEHBDMS V@X NE DWOQDRR@MC BTKSHU@SD SGD @QS NE IDVDKQX 3GHR@QSHRSHB DWOQDR RHNM G@R BNLD CDEHMD"@QQDQ@ X "@QQDQ@ @MC RDS SGD AQ@MC @O@QSEQNLSGDQDRS+NMF FNMD @QD SGD ADFHMMHMFR NE SGDDRS@AKHRG LDMS NE SGD ,@CQHKDMH@M RSQDDS2@MS@ (R@ADK HM ,@CQHC (S V@R SGD XD@Q ,@QH@ "QHRSHM@ NE '@ORATQF QTKDCSGD LNM@QBGX @MC SGD BHSX HLHS@ SDC SGDTQA@M SQ@MRENQL@SHNM '@TRRL@MM G@CCDUDKNODC HM/@QHR RPT@QDR O@QJRL@KKR

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

)NR$RSDA@M"@QQDQ@

,@CQHC

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE" 11$1 8" 11$1 g" 11$1 8" 11$1

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

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

)NR$RSDA@M"@QQDQ@

,@CQHC

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE" 11$1 8" 11$1 g" 11$1 8" 11$1

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

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

"It is the time ofElizabeth Taylor,Audrey Hepburn,Balenciaga and prt--porter.In 1960, when KingBaudouin I of Belgiummarried the Spanisharistocrat Fabiola deMora y Aragn, thebridal tiara with setstones was crafted inthe Carrera workshop."

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

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

"It is the time ofElizabeth Taylor,Audrey Hepburn,Balenciaga and prt--porter.In 1960, when KingBaudouin I of Belgiummarried the Spanisharistocrat Fabiola deMora y Aragn, thebridal tiara with setstones was crafted inthe Carrera workshop."

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

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

"Carrera y Carrera came to lifeat the hands of a jeweler andartist, a visionary and masterof goldsmithing techniques.Manuel Carrera has been atthe forefront of Spanishjewelry design since thesecond half of the twentiethcentury. He is widelyacknowledged as the mostrespected designer, creativevisionary, and innovativeentrepreneur of the sector."

,@MTDK"@QQDQ@

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

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

"Carrera y Carrera came to lifeat the hands of a jeweler andartist, a visionary and masterof goldsmithing techniques.Manuel Carrera has been atthe forefront of Spanishjewelry design since thesecond half of the twentiethcentury. He is widelyacknowledged as the mostrespected designer, creativevisionary, and innovativeentrepreneur of the sector."

,@MTDK"@QQDQ@

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

)DMMHEDQ+NODY

2NEH@5DQF@Q@

#DLH,NNQD

)DRRHB@+@MFD

.KHUH@/@KDQLN

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

VVVB@QQDQ@XB@QQDQ@BNL

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

)DMMHEDQ+NODY

2NEH@5DQF@Q@

#DLH,NNQD

)DRRHB@+@MFD

.KHUH@/@KDQLN

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

VVVB@QQDQ@XB@QQDQ@BNL

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

-HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ

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

expertise

-HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ

KKO

GNSNR@QDBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

Carrera y Carrera

-HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ

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

expertise

-HZHOOHU\+LVWRULDQ

KKO

GNSNR@QDBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

Carrera y Carrera

&RQVLGHUWKHHQYLURQPHQWEHIRUHSULQWLQJWKLVLVVXH

5(&

&RQVLGHUWKHHQYLURQPHQWEHIRUHSULQWLQJWKLVLVVXH

5(&

At the Jewellery Historian our main mission isto promote, inspire and educate and for thisreason we look for jewellery designers,brands and artists whose work is exceptionaland of the highest quality in all aspects. The main goal of the Education column is tooffer in every issue materials and resourcesthat are available to you completely free ofcharge, that will allow you to learn further. It is also an open invitation to educationalinstitutions, museums & cultural institutions,researchers & scholars to join us, in order tomake education and knowledge accessibleto all. Created to promote jewellery, the expertiseand vision of famous international jewellerymaisons & with the goal of raising theawareness of jewellery design as a form ofcreative expression, the Jewellery Historianis one of the few free e-magazines worldwide,related to jewellery, to offer free of chargesuch a quality of editorial line and ressources.

( ' 8 & $ 7 , 2 1

HGXFDWLRQ

Left page : Portrait of Hortense de Beauharnais, Queen of Holland, Anne Louis Girodet-Trioson, c. 1805 - c. 1809canvas, h 60.9cm w 49.8cm. Hortense was Napoleons stepdaughter. Through her marriage to Napoleons brother, Louis Napoleon, she became Queen of Holland in 1806. Theirmarriagewasnotasuccess,andHortensefoundHollandacoldandgloomyplace.ShepreferredtolivewithhersonsatNapoleonscourt inParis,whereshe had her portrait painted by Girodet, the leading artist of the day. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam KK

OGNSNR@QDBNT

QSDRXNE1HIJ

RLTRDT

L LRSDQC@

Lg KKOG

NSNRHM

SGHR@QSHBKD@QDHM

SGDOT

AKHBCNL

@HM

At the Jewellery Historian our main mission isto promote, inspire and educate and for thisreason we look for jewellery designers,brands and artists whose work is exceptionaland of the highest quality in all aspects. The main goal of the Education column is tooffer in every issue materials and resourcesthat are available to you completely free ofcharge, that will allow you to learn further. It is also an open invitation to educationalinstitutions, museums & cultural institutions,researchers & scholars to join us, in order tomake education and knowledge accessibleto all. Created to promote jewellery, the expertiseand vision of famous international jewellerymaisons & with the goal of raising theawareness of jewellery design as a form ofcreative expression, the Jewellery Historianis one of the few free e-magazines worldwide,related to jewellery, to offer free of chargesuch a quality of editorial line and ressources.

( ' 8 & $ 7 , 2 1

HGXFDWLRQ

Left page : Portrait of Hortense de Beauharnais, Queen of Holland, Anne Louis Girodet-Trioson, c. 1805 - c. 1809canvas, h 60.9cm w 49.8cm. Hortense was Napoleons stepdaughter. Through her marriage to Napoleons brother, Louis Napoleon, she became Queen of Holland in 1806. Theirmarriagewasnotasuccess,andHortensefoundHollandacoldandgloomyplace.ShepreferredtolivewithhersonsatNapoleonscourt inParis,whereshe had her portrait painted by Girodet, the leading artist of the day. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam KK

OGNSNR@QDBNT

QSDRXNE1HIJ

RLTRDT

L LRSDQC@

Lg KKOG

NSNRHM

SGHR@QSHBKD@QDHM

SGDOT

AKHBCNL

@HM

HGXFDWLRQ

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

Manythousandsofyearsago, longbeforewrittenhistory,humanbeingsprobablydiscoveredthefirstpearlwhilesearchingtheseashoreforfood.Throughout history, the pearl, with its warm inner glow and shimmeringiridescence, has been one of the most highly prized and sought-aftergems.Countlessreferencestothepearlcanbefoundinthereligionsandmythology of cultures from the earliest times. In this issue, we focus onbaroque pearls, used in jewellery from the 16th century.

Baroque Pearlsof the 16th century

Amphitrite on a dolphin, anonymous, ca. 1580 - ca. 1600Figure: gold, partially enamelled,pearls and precious stones; pedestal:patinated gold, h 14,5cm. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

HGXFDWLRQ

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

Manythousandsofyearsago, longbeforewrittenhistory,humanbeingsprobablydiscoveredthefirstpearlwhilesearchingtheseashoreforfood.Throughout history, the pearl, with its warm inner glow and shimmeringiridescence, has been one of the most highly prized and sought-aftergems.Countlessreferencestothepearlcanbefoundinthereligionsandmythology of cultures from the earliest times. In this issue, we focus onbaroque pearls, used in jewellery from the 16th century.

Baroque Pearlsof the 16th century

Amphitrite on a dolphin, anonymous, ca. 1580 - ca. 1600Figure: gold, partially enamelled,pearls and precious stones; pedestal:patinated gold, h 14,5cm. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Pendant in the form of a cockGermany, Anonymous, c. 1600baroque pearl, diamonds, rubies gold and enamel.h 7.5cm w 4.5cm. Inthe16thcentury, large, irregularlyshapedpearlsoftenservedasthepointofdepartureforajewellerydesign. Inthiscase,the pearl forms the body of a cock. Its head, tail and feet are made of gold. The jeweller enamelled these parts in variouscolours and set them with (what are probably) rubies. This cock was certainly part of the Dutch stadtholders collectionfrom the 18th century. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

HGXFDWLRQ

Pendant in the form of a sphinxItaly, Anonymous, c. 1600 baroque pearls, rubies gold and enamel. h 8.5 cm w 2.9 cm Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Pendant in the form of a cockGermany, Anonymous, c. 1600baroque pearl, diamonds, rubies gold and enamel.h 7.5cm w 4.5cm. Inthe16thcentury, large, irregularlyshapedpearlsoftenservedasthepointofdepartureforajewellerydesign. Inthiscase,the pearl forms the body of a cock. Its head, tail and feet are made of gold. The jeweller enamelled these parts in variouscolours and set them with (what are probably) rubies. This cock was certainly part of the Dutch stadtholders collectionfrom the 18th century. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

HGXFDWLRQ

Pendant in the form of a sphinxItaly, Anonymous, c. 1600 baroque pearls, rubies gold and enamel. h 8.5 cm w 2.9 cm Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Pendant in the form of an animal, Anonymous, maybe from Spain, c. 1600 - c. 1620baroque pearls, gold and enamel.h 5.8cm 3.5cm w. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Plate with the bust of a woman, Anonymous, France, c. 1500 - c. 1600baroque pearls, gold and enamel. h 3.8cm 2.8cm w. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

HGXFDWLRQ

Pendant in the form of an animal, Anonymous, maybe from Spain, c. 1600 - c. 1620baroque pearls, gold and enamel.h 5.8cm 3.5cm w. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Plate with the bust of a woman, Anonymous, France, c. 1500 - c. 1600baroque pearls, gold and enamel. h 3.8cm 2.8cm w. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

HGXFDWLRQ

You are an scholar, researcher, a PhDstudent ? We invite you to join us today ! We are looking for scholars, researchersand PhD students to join our team ofvolunteers. All our positions are aimed atthe motivated individual who wants topromote jewellery and art education. We are searching for people who want tomake education and educationalresources accessible to all. We aresearching for people that can contribute inmaking the Jewellery Historian'sEducational Resources, resources freelyaccessible, documents and media thatare useful for teaching, learning, andassessing as well as for researchpurposes. At the Jewellery Historian, experience isimportant, but for us passion andcommitment are even more importantthan experience. You must speak, write and understandenglish, since all our articles are publishedin english and english is our workinglanguage, but any foreign language is aplus. Please note that at the Jewellery Historianwe do not have and/or offer any salaryposition. All our team are freelancers &volunteers. Conctact us today at [email protected]

Margarita Trip as Minerva, Instructing her Sister Anna Maria Trip Ferdinand Bol, 1663 ( h 208 cm w 179 cm ) Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

VFKRODUVMRLQRXUWHDP

You are an scholar, researcher, a PhDstudent ? We invite you to join us today ! We are looking for scholars, researchersand PhD students to join our team ofvolunteers. All our positions are aimed atthe motivated individual who wants topromote jewellery and art education. We are searching for people who want tomake education and educationalresources accessible to all. We aresearching for people that can contribute inmaking the Jewellery Historian'sEducational Resources, resources freelyaccessible, documents and media thatare useful for teaching, learning, andassessing as well as for researchpurposes. At the Jewellery Historian, experience isimportant, but for us passion andcommitment are even more importantthan experience. You must speak, write and understandenglish, since all our articles are publishedin english and english is our workinglanguage, but any foreign language is aplus. Please note that at the Jewellery Historianwe do not have and/or offer any salaryposition. All our team are freelancers &volunteers. Conctact us today at [email protected]

Margarita Trip as Minerva, Instructing her Sister Anna Maria Trip Ferdinand Bol, 1663 ( h 208 cm w 179 cm ) Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

VFKRODUVMRLQRXUWHDP

JH TravelTHE TRAVEL SUPPLEMENT OF THE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

N E X T M O N T H

THE TRAVEL SUPPLEMENT OF THE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

JH Travel

EXCLUSIVE TIKEHAU PEARL BEACH RESORT

Polynesian hospitality atPearl Beach Resort

Fine dining at Le Meurice,The Hotel of Kings

year 01 | number 02 | january 2015

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE26(22g26(22

3'$".

5$1 -#.

1".-3$-

3, 8!$#

(%%$1$-3 3/4

!+(" 3(.-# 3$-

.-".

-31 "34

+".5$1

6:,66F i r s tYour home above the clouds

Timeless eleganceat the Plaza New York

JH TravelTHE TRAVEL SUPPLEMENT OF THE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

N E X T M O N T H

THE TRAVEL SUPPLEMENT OF THE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

JH Travel

EXCLUSIVE TIKEHAU PEARL BEACH RESORT

Polynesian hospitality atPearl Beach Resort

Fine dining at Le Meurice,The Hotel of Kings

year 01 | number 02 | january 2015

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE26(22g26(22

3'$".

5$1 -#.

1".-3$-

3, 8!$#

(%%$1$-3 3/4

!+(" 3(.-# 3$-

.-".

-31 "34

+".5$1

6:,66F i r s tYour home above the clouds

Timeless eleganceat the Plaza New York

2QFHXSRQDW LPHAn Eastern legend has it that 46 centuries ago,there was a Chinese princess named Liu-Tsuwho, at the age of 14, was forced to marry abarbaric Khan against her will for politicalreasons. As revenge, Liu-Tsu hid in her shawlthe best-guarded mystery of the Far East,unknown until that time the secret of ImperialSilk embroidery and she threw it into thedepths of the ocean. Centuries later, the captain of the Nao SanFelipe plied the 7 seas, from Manila to Acapulcoand from there to Seville, fighting adversariesfrom every continent. One day when the seaswere calm, he glimpsed something in the water.The shawl appeared in the hands of the captain,who guarded it as if it were treasure. That same night, a storm broke. People say thatone April afternoon, the ship appeared by itselfin the port of Seville; nothing was known of itscaptain or crew. A woman found the shawl andgave it to a young embroiderer for embroidering.This woman was the captains lover and anaristocrat who, along with the youngembroiderer, protected the mystery.Carrera y Carrera now reveals this legendthrough its new collection, Seda Imperial.Discover all its secrets. Seda Imperial, Be seduced by the mystery ofthe new collection from Carrera y Carrera Over time, that shawl that Liu-Tsu threw in theocean became what is now known as the Manilashawl, considered an adaptation betweenimmemorial Chinese tradition and a Spanishemblem thanks to the fusion of Eastern andWestern cultures. The Manila shawl, originally from China, is apurely handmade, hand-embroidered garment

crafted in natural silk with skill and dexterity.The creation of a shawl requires the experthands of an embroiderer that dedicates monthsof work to create a garment and adornment ofincalculable value. Carrera y Carrera jewels arecreated in a similar fashion through meticulouswork by master goldsmiths. The collection includes the most characteristicelements of the Manila shawl. To wrap oneself in it is like dressing with apainting. Benito Prez Galds, Fortunata yJacinta. Emperatriz : Seduction, femininity, andgenerous volumes This collection is inspired by the floral patternsof the Manila shawl. In Spain, they were the mostvaluable. Colorful gardens of varied flowersencompassing different meanings: amongothers, the rose was secret, the lily denotedpurity, the thistle and the lotus were reminiscentof China, the cherry blossom signified heroismand bravery, and the peony symbolized theempress. The jewels are presented as flowers with petalsof varying sizes that provide realism as well asvolume to the pieces. The transparency of theprecious stones reveals the painstaking workof the interior of the piece, creating a magnifyingglass effect that allows each detail to beenlarged and appreciated in an extraordinaryfashion. Asymmetrical pieces where differentproportions are visible and give the pieces asense of movement with very pure parts andmore richly adorned parts through which thewhole framework may be appreciated, creatingan astonishing set of contrasts.

/GNSNBNTQSDRXNE"

11$

1 8" 1

1$1

g" 1

1$1

8" 1

1$1

Carrera y Carrera

2QFHXSRQDW LPHAn Eastern legend has it that 46 centuries ago,there was a Chinese princess named Liu-Tsuwho, at the age of 14, was forced to marry abarbaric Khan against her will for politicalreasons. As revenge, Liu-Tsu hid in her shawlthe best-guarded mystery of the Far East,unknown until that time the secret of ImperialSilk embroidery and she threw it into thedepths of the ocean. Centuries later, the captain of the Nao SanFelipe plied the 7 seas, from Manila to Acapulcoand from there to Seville, fighting adversariesfrom every continent. One day when the seaswere calm, he glimpsed something in the water.The shawl appeared in the hands of the captain,who guarded it as if it were treasure. That same night, a storm broke. People say thatone April afternoon, the ship appeared by itselfin the port of Seville; nothing was known of itscaptain or crew. A woman found the shawl andgave it to a young embroiderer for embroidering.This woman was the captains lover and anaristocrat who, along with the youngembroiderer, protected the mystery.Carrera y Carrera now reveals this legendthrough its new collection, Seda Imperial.Discover all its secrets. Seda Imperial, Be seduced by the mystery ofthe new co

jewellery historian, issue # 06

Documents