jewellery historian issue 09

1. #09 Jewellery Historian

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3. news portraits 12 Christie's amazing jewels to shine in New York 26 Basel World strengthens its leadership position 30 Entice At Basel World 2015 Sotheby's Magnificent jewels in New York 50 Maria Kondakova Designer's passion jewellery Todd Pownell Respect for the innate properties 106 JazyChic In touch with the stars Garrard 280 years of rich heritage 32 86 122 musts Editor's Letter Passion for creativity 08 Issue Globe The designers at a glance 07 inspiration 142 Tourmaline The breathtaking beauty of gems Our Faves we introduce you to our Secret Garden150 April 2015 Jewellery Historian 005 Maria Kondakova The passionate artist74 Esthte the editor's favorite for this month166 cover story

4. Jewellery Historian ISSUE 09, YEAR 01 APRIL 2015 Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-chief *** CONTRIBUTORS Eva Kountouraki Martin Huynh Christina Rodopoulou *** LAY-OUT & DESIGN Jewellery Historian *** www.jewelleryhistorian.com [email protected] *** For a free subscription visit www.jewelleryhistorian.com *** PUBLISHED & DISTRIBUTED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH H O M O E V O L U T I O N Chomatianou 26, 10439 Athens, Greece *** FREE COPY / NOT FOR SALE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN 2015 All material published in this e-magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of this e-magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and digital brands, neither the editors, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this e-magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles are the author's own and do not reflect the view of the Jewellery Historian, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this site is strictly prohibited.The content, entire edition, graphics, design, and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission.All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Web pages of the company are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of links (links) in the Jewellery Historian Web pages is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historians website and/or e-magazine belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Jewellery Historian006

5. Founder & Editor-in-Chief Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier editor's letter This period is one of the most creative periods of the year. We are delighted to discover the amazing new creations of talented artists and we are proud to showcase them to you. It is also a period of unique auctions that allow to buyers to bid on historical jewellery, created by the most talented artists for the most prestigious Maisons. Creation is a process that never stops. An artist will source inspiration in everything surrounding him or her. The creation of beautiful or significant never ends. In the perspective of the history of art, artistic works have existed for almost as long as human kind. Jewellery is definitely a form of artistic creation. All art consists of a concept embedded in a medium. In every issue, we work to showcase the most talented jewellery designers, the ones that are unique artists. Their work is a artistic creation of emotions and full of emotions. The concept is what the artist wants to show to the audience. Working with the most talented goldsmiths they succeed by combining imagination to skills and to precious metals and breathtaking gemstones, to offer to us jewellery lovers, the creationsthatmakeusdream.Theircreationsaretheonesthatwillcaptureouruniquemomentsandmakethemapartofour personal history. Then, the sentimental value of each piece, makes it precious. Once more, I would like to wekcome you to our new issue, an issue full of unique creations. I would like to welcome you to our "fairytale", full of gorgeous jewellery, unique gemstones and the most important full of creativity and passion. Creation Jewellery Historian 007

6. Jewellery Historian008 issue globe Maria KONDAKOVA Born in Moscow, Maria spent her childhood there, growing up in a family which enjoyed travelling and exploring new places. This instilled curiosity and passion for expressing herself through art. Afters studyies in London, at Central Saint Martins, in Art and Design and with a BA in Jewellery Design combined to a diploma in gemology at GIA , she started working with private clients as well as to develop other collections including the YouVdiamonds collection unveiled at Baselworld 2015. Todd POWNELL TAP Jewelry designs evolve from emotion to (aesthetic) experience and back. Romanticism underlies the forms of expression within the jewelry. The interaction of dark and light metals mixed with fine gold and diamonds combine to evoke a strong sense of mystery and sublime nature. The diamonds are bead set upside-down onto the surface in pave or scattered across the piece. This reverse setting effectively captures and reflects light in a succession of broad flashes from oblique angles creating the feeling of twilight. The emotive experience is primary with passions held over order and the senses are moved into the pleasures of the imagination. In every issue we introduce to you, jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects. Meet the artists & columnists featured in this issue.

7. Jewellery Historian Jasmin DJAHABCHAHI Jasmin Djahanchahi has always been driven by a passion to create beauty influenced by her love for the ancient Zoroastrian values and her appreciation of modern western art. Designing is her world, her essential way of expression. Being of German and Persian heritage and having lived in many different locations worldwide gives her a truly multifaceted flair, reflected in all of her work. Her creations embody simplicity and a fine sense of harmony and balance, her very personal translation of unconventional wisdom into objects of desire. Timeless objects that reveal unlimited imagination and a fresh vision of glamour intended to grace the modern woman. Eva KOUNTOURAKI Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. Evas brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA, the world famous Gemological Institute of America. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world. At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the "Unique breathtaking beauty of gems". In this issue discover and learn about tourmailines. GARRARD In 1981 Charles, the Prince of Wales, chose a Garrard sapphire and diamond cluster engagement ring. The vibrant and striking ring worn by Diana, Princess of Wales was bequeathed to Prince William, Duke of Cambridge and presented to Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge upon their engagement in 2011. Garrard has formed a reputation for distinguished craftsmanship, utmost attention to detail and everlasting prestige, for over 280 years.

8. Jewellery Historian010 news Boutique openings, coffee table books, auctions, exhibitions & events. Everything new jewellery lovers must know, is here.

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10. Auction On April 14 Christies will offer more than 300 jewels for sale including a four strand natural colored saltwater pearl necklace, a fancy intense purplish pink diamond ring of 5.29 carats, and a cushion cut diamond ring of 80.73 carats as a few of the highlights. With jewelry from major houses such as Bulgari, Cartier, Graff, Harry Winston, JAR, Tiffany, and Van Cleef & Arpels collectors have the opportunity to acquire exquisite signed jewels priced from $1,000 to $2,700,000. Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York on April 14 Jewellery Historian012

11. PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S Jewellery Historian 013 A colored diamond and diamond necklace, by Graff Estimate: $500,000 700,000 A pear-shaped D-color potentially internally flawless diamond pendant of 25.49 carats Estimate: $2,500,000 3,500,000

12. On April 14, Christies will present its spring sale of Magnificent Jewels in New York. Featuring more than 300 jewels, the sale is led by an outstanding four-strand natural colored saltwater pearl necklace. Black pearls count amongst the most rare of natural gems. Much scarcer than their white counterparts, they represent beauty of the highest order. Very few black and gray pearl necklaces have been offered for sale in the past fifty years, the most famous in comparison being The Nina Dyer Black Pearl Necklace, first sold at Christies Geneva in May 1969 and more recently, The Cowdray PearlssoldatChristiesLondoninJune2012.Theauction is expected to achieve in excess of US$40 million. RahulKadakia,InternationalHeadofChristiesJewelry, commented: After a record-breaking year in 2014 in which Christies Jewelry department realized an unprecedented $754.7 million in sales, we are proud to begin the jewelry auction season with this exceptional sale of Magnificent Jewels in New York. The auction on April 14 is comprised of superior quality diamonds, rare colored gemstones, and natural pearls that present collectorsremarkableopportunitiestoacquireone-of- a-kind rare jewels. THE FINEST NATURAL PEARLS Prized since ancient times, strands of natural pearls matching in color, luster, and shape are exceedingly rare. The early Spanish merchants in the pearl trade found it much easier to sell fine white pearls in Europe and it was not until the second half of the nineteen century that black pearls began to grow in popularity. This was largely due to Empress Eugnie, wife of NapoleonIII(married1853),whodevelopedatastefor these exotic gems. The present lot comprises over two hundred and eighty-nine colored pearls with highly attractiveros,greenorpurpleovertonesandveryfine orient. Additional highlights include a pair of Art Deco pearl and diamond bracelets each comprising five strandsofnaturalpearls,measuringapproximately5.00 to6.60mmindiameterandcarryingapre-saleestimate of $120,000 150,000; and a collection of fine white natural pearls priced from $40,000 to $400,000. EXCEPTIONAL SIGNED JEWELS Great design is the core of what makes classic jewelry hold its value over the long term, and Christies is proud to present the best and most iconic examples from the major jewelry houses this April. Among the scores of jewels is a leading selection from master jeweler, Laurence Graff. Having established his first retail shop under his name in 1962, the company draws upon generations of training to create the extraordinary fine settings and intricate designs synonymous with the Graff brand. Further highlights include offerings from Bulgari, Cartier, Harry Winston, JAR, and Van Cleef & Arpels. www.christies.com Jewellery Historian014 Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York on April 14 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S A four-strand natural colored pearl necklace measuring from 12.65 to 4.90 mm ; Estimate: $3,800,000 4,500,000

13. Jewellery Historian 015 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S A fancy intense purplish pink diamond of 5.29 carats Estimate: $3,500,000 5,000,000

14. Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York A pair of D-color diamond ear pendants of 10.06 and 10.02, by Harry Winston. Estimate: 1,500,000 2,000,000 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S Jewellery Historian016

15. A magnificent & rare natural colored pearl and diamond necklace measuring from 12.65 to 4.90 mm ; Estimate:$3,800,000 4,500,000 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S Jewellery Historian 017

16. A sapphire and diamond necklace, by Graff Estimate: $250,000 350,000 Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York Jewellery Historian018 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S

17. A pair of Art Deco natural pearl and diamond bracelets Estimate: $120,000 150,000 A superb emerald, ruby, and diamond necklace, by Bulgari Estimate: $300,000 400,000 Jewellery Historian 019 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S

18. PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York A cushion-cut D-color potentially Internally Flawless diamond of 11.03 carats, by Graff Estimate: $750,000 1,000,000 Jewellery Historian020

19. An octagonal-cut Kashmir sapphire of 11.88 carats Estimate: $1,200,000 1,800,000 A pair of emerald, diamond, and colored diamond earclips, by JAR; Estimate: $250,000 350,000 Jewellery Historian 021 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S

20. Born in Texas in 1900, Paul Flato was the original jeweler to the stars. He founded his company in New York City in the 1920s and opened a Los Angeles store in 1937. His design- oriented style, which was figurative and often humorous, reached its peak in the 1930s. Millicent Rogers, the Standard Oil heiress, was one of his most photographed clients. Routinely on the International Best Dressed list as a woman of high fashion and distinctive taste, she had many ideas for jewelry designs that Flato turned into innovative creations, such as the puffy heart. The present lot (illustrated right; estimate: $350,000 500,000), a ruby, sapphire, and colored diamond enamel brooch was designed and worn by Millicent Rogers and is pierced with an arrow draped with a blue ribbon with the words, Verbum Carro (A word to my dear). It is evocative of the South American Milagros icon related charms that were worn THE WHIMSIES OF PAUL FLATO Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York Jewellery Historian022

21. PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S Jewellery Historian 023 The Millicent Rogers heart by Paul Flato Estimate: $350,000 500,000

22. Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S A pair of cushion-cut diamond ear pendants of 10.28 and 10.42 carats ; Estimate: $600,000 800,000 A sapphire and diamond necklace, by Van Cleef & Arpels; Estimate: $300,000 500,000 Jewellery Historian024

23. PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S A cushion-shaped diamond of 80.73 carats Estimate: $4,000,000 5,000,000 Jewellery Historian 025

24. PhotocourtesyofBaselworld Jewellery Historian026

25. Strengthens its Leadership Position Baselworld 2015 Baselworld 2015, THE global trendsetting event for the watch and jewellery industry, concluded the 2015 edition on a positive note after eight intensive and memorable days. The biggest and most prestigious brands in the world, the finest retailers and the global press once again united under one roof and capitalised on the myriad of business and networking opportunities that are exclusive to Baselworld. A record number of press attendees underlined the relentless growth of interest in the show. Universally acknowledged as the one unmissable trendsetting event for an entire industry, Baselworld is the only show that unites key players from all sectors from around the world: watchmaking, jewellery, diamonds,gemstonesandpearls,aswellas machines and suppliers. The undisputed premier event once again saw 1,500 brands unveil and showcase their innovations and creations. With marginally fewer buyers present (-3% vs 2014), Baselworld 2015 had around 150,000 attendees (including representatives from exhibiting companies, buyers, journalists and other visitors) from over 100 countries. They felt the pulse of the industry, discovered the novelties, and purchased the latest collections which will set the trends for the coming year. More than 4,300 (+ 7.5% vs 2014) representatives of the press from over 70 countries attended the show. These numbers signify a new all-time record further underscoring the international interest in the show. In keeping with Baselworld's wide reach and universal attractiveness, a livestream of the opening press conference was broadcast and followed by some 3,000 journalists from all over the world. A RESILIENT, RESPONSIVE AND CREATIVE INDUSTRY The show has been a positive one for the watch and jewellery brands. With resilience, responsiveness and creativity, the industry continues to lead the way forward such that the attractiveness and interest that this sector creates continue growing. Nowhere else are more innovations, creations and new collections revealed than at Baselworld - all the elements that make this show THE trendsetting event worldwide. Reflecting on this year's edition of Baselworld, Franois Thibaud, President of the Swiss Exhibitors' Committee, said he was reminded of the show's rich history and the evolution from its simple roots to the superlative event it is today. "Baselworld is universally acknowledged as the premier event for the global watch and jewellery industry. What makes it exceptional is that Baselworld is the only show that fully reflects the excellence of the industry by uniting everyone from the smallest to the largest brands representing every sector; and it offers each of these a prestigious platform to present themselves in the best light." > Jewellery Historian 027 PhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworld PhotocourtesyofBaselworld

26. > Summarising his impression of this year's show, Mr Thibaud said that the feedback he had received from brands over the course of the eight days, leaves him "convinced that this year will be a positive one for the industry because everyone has continued to innovate, not just with creating products, but also with intensifying communication with the media and buyers". Commenting on the value of the show, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, is of the opinion that "Baselworld continues to be the major milestone in the year, allowing us to meet and work with all our major clients around the globe. Our press meetings are equally important and increasing every year". This opinion was also shared by Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe, for whom Baselworld continues to be the most important annual event where "we get to meet all our partners and the entire global network in a concentrated time". Mr Stern found this year's show to be "an excellent edition that was really successful in terms of numbers and the interest in our products from retailers and the press". Enthusiastic about Baselworld and the success of the LVMH Group at this year's show, President of the group's watch division, Jean-Claude Biver, said that for their brands, TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith, "the results are excellent and we are above all our expectations". SHINING SUCCESS FOR DIAMONDS, GEMSTONES & PEARLS TRADE Baselworld goes beyond the world of watches and jewellery as it is also the leading global event for diamonds, gemstones and pearl merchants. The best players and dealers from around the world participate in Baselworld because of the immense audience it attracts among which are the biggest customers from all markets. First time Baselworld exhibitor, Shanghai Kimberlite Diamond Co., Ltd, very enthusiastically praised the value of their participation. "This is the first time we've exhibited at Baselworld and we can honestly say this is the one and only show that offers us so many unique opportunities. In the course of the eight days we were able to maximise the effect of our participation as we met with the most importantbuyersfromallovertheworld and talked to the most significant journalists. All in all, this has been a tremendously successful show for both our brand and our business," said Kimberlite Chairman Dong Liusheng. PRESSATTENDANCEATBASELWORLD 2015 SETS NEW RECORD More than 4,300 (+ 7.5 % vs 2014) of the world's financial press, major dailies, lifestyle publications, all the trade press, the biggest TV channels and key players in the field of social media from over 70 countries attended the show to be among the first to discover those innovations and creations unveiled at Baselworld. With everyone from magazine editors seeking to discover cutting-edge trends and innovative designs to bloggers who deliver up-to- date editorials to consumers in every corner of the planet, the international press once again played a major role in creating an unrivalled global impact and underlining the show's premier position for the watch and jewellery industry. BASELWORLD - NEVER CEASING TO INNOVATE TO MEET EVOLVING REQUIREMENTS Summing up the successful conclusion of the 2015 edition of this superlative show, Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director of Baselworld, said that "Baselworld is the heart of a whole industry which spreads throughout the entire world from here. This statement is becoming increasingly true with every year that passes, as Baselworld strengthens its position as the leader year after year". Further reflecting on what makes this show the one unmissable event for the entire industry, Ms Ritter very clearly states: "This envied and enviable position has to be defended untiringly; that's why Baselworld moves forward every year, improving convenience and impact, and never ceases to innovate to meet the constantly evolving requirements." THE NEXT BASELWORLD WILL BE HELD 17 - 24 MARCH 2016 Jewellery Historian028 PhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworld

27. PhotocourtesyofBaselworld Jewellery Historian 029

28. Jewellery Historian030 PhotocourtesyofENTICEENTICE

29. at Baselworld 2015 ENTICE For the 10th year in a row, Entice, the fine jewellery brand by the century old KGK group, from Hong Kong, participated at Baselworld 2015. ENTICE showcased its mesmerizing range of trendsetting Diamond jewellery from its latest collections. Breathtaking necklaces exuding grandeur, flexible white and yellow gold bracelets studded with white and yellow diamonds in beautiful geometrical patterns, long diamond earrings with intricate detailing, spectacular emerald ring, exquisite combinations of different unique shapes of diamonds like pear, round, rose cut, baguette etc. set in white and yellow gold complimenting the unique designs. The Jewellery displayed is now available at Entice Hong Kong exclusively and would come to India later this year. Each piece at Entice has been handcrafted to precision by anexpertteamofinternationaldesignersatEnticesstate-of- the-art -manufacturing unit in Hong Kong. Each bauble is unique in its own and exudes opulence, making it a prized possession for the possessor. The uniqueness of Entice Jewellery lies in its unprecedented grace and trendsetting flair, which is synonymous with brands commitment to create the best! Present at the Baselworld 2015, Mr. Sanjay Kothari, Vice Chairman - KGK Group of Companies said, Its an honor for the brand to be associated with Baselworld, the biggest jewellery fair in the world. For many years we have been showcasing our finest of the work at this platform and maintain the legacy, this year as well, we have showcased themostpremiumandbestofdesignsfromEnticespandora of excellence. Taking the rich Indian jewellery heritage and enhancing it with a contemporary twist, Entice Jewellery offers a classical yet contemporary style; boasting an elegant rich look. 'Entice' was launched by KGK group at the turn of millennium in 2004 in Hong Kong. Following a huge success with boutiques in Hong Kong & China and with an impression that India is now modern by design, KGK launched its first boutique of Entice in Jaipur in 2009. Entice today has 17 standalone boutiques in countries including Hong Kong, China and India (Jaipur, Mumbai, New Delhi & Bengaluru). Entice designs meet the mounting demand for an internationally aesthetic look, lending a unique artistic blend to their pieces. Associated by the strength of KGK, Entice aims to create an unparalleled position of credible leadership by providing unmatched customer delight and exceeding customer expectations at every opportunity with its precious gems and jewellery. The KGK group, established in 1905 by Kothari family of Jaipur, is a global corporation with fully integrated operations in the Gems & Jewellery industry, with presence across 15 countries. A pioneer in the world of precious stones, KGK Group has been sourcing, manufacturing and distributing diamonds, colored stones and jewellery for decades.KGKssourcingofitsroughdiamondsfromDeBeers as a sightholder, from Rio Tinto, Alrosa and other organized markets, provides it an easy access to diamonds at most reasonable prices. Jewellery Historian 031 PhotocourtesyofENTICEENTICE

30. Jewellery Historian032 PhotocourtesyofSOTHEBY'SSOTHEBY'S Auction

31. at SOTHEBY'S New York Magnificent jewels Jewellery Historian 033 Sothebys21AprilauctionofMagnificentJewelsinNewYork will offer more than 350 pieces that together are estimated to achieve in excess of $50 million. The sale is led by a diamond unlike any offered before: an extraordinary 100-carat perfect diamond in a classic Emerald-cut that is estimated to sell for $1925 million. Among the exceptional pieces on this sale, the "Baron de Rothschildnecklace",theMonarchBlueDiamondandunique jewellery by world famous maisons.

32. at SOTHEBY'S New York Magnificent jewels Sothebys 21 April auction of Magnificent Jewels in New York will offer more than 350 pieces that together are estimated to achieve in excess of $50 million*. Highlights will be on public view in Hong Kong, London andDohathismonth**,beforereturningtoNewYorkfor exhibition beginning 17 April. The sale is led by a diamond unlike any offered before: anextraordinary100-caratperfectdiamondinaclassic Emerald-cutthatisestimatedtosellfor$1925million.At this impressive scale, diamonds of this exceptional quality D color and Internally Flawless clarity are incredibly rare, and are considered perfect. What distinguishes the present example within this rarefied league is its beautiful shape: it is the largest perfect diamond with a classic Emerald-cut ever to be offered at auction. The remarkable 100.20-carat, D color, Internally Flawless, Type IIa stone will highlight Sothebys Magnificent Jewels auction in New York on 21 April 2015, when it is estimated to sell for US$19-25 million. This modern shape gives the stone an unforgettable presence,whetheritiswornasajeweloradmiredonits own. The original rough weighing over 200 carats was minedbyDeBeersinsouthernAfrica.Thecurrentowner spentoveroneyearstudying,cuttingandpolishingthe rough diamond to deliver the spectacular stone. GarySchuler,HeadofSothebysJewelryDepartmentin New York, commented: This 100.20 carat diamond is the definition of perfection. The color is whiter than white, it is free of any internal imperfections, and so transparent that I can only compare it to a pool of icy water. It is the first true emerald-cut diamond over 100 caratstobeofferedatauctionthemostclassicofcuts, quietly elegant and very contemporary. Lisa Hubbard, Chairman of North & South America for Sothebys International Jewelry Division, said: The rarestobjectofnaturalbeautyonthemarketrightnow, this 100-carat diamond could be considered the ultimate acquisition. Simply put, it has everything you could ever want from a diamond: the classic shape begstobeworn,whilethequalityputsitinanassetclass ofitsown.Thestonegivesyousomanyoptionsadmire it un-mounted, wear it as a simple but stunning pendant, or mount in a designed jewel. Since 1990, when Sothebys sold the first 100-carat perfect diamond at auction, until the most recent examplein2013,thepricepercaratforthesestoneshas increased from $125,000 to $260,000. The present stones low estimate of $19 million represents a valuation of $190,000 per carat. Other highlights of this exceptional auction are a magnificentplatinum&18Karatgold,ringwithafancy purplish pink diamond, weighing 6.24 carats set in a unique mounting with two-cushion cut Kashmir sapphires of 2.44 and 2.36 carats. (Estimate $2,500,000-3,500,000). At the same sale will be sold also "The Monarch Blue Diamond". This important ring in platinum centering an oval-shaped mixed cut fancy blue diamond of 6.06 carats,inVVS2clarityandcomplementedwithsixpink- hued round dimoands has an estimate of $3,500,000-4,500,000. TheBarondeRothschildNecklace,anelegantandrare platinum, emerald, sapphire, lapis lazuli and diamond necklace, was designed by Charles Jacqueau for Cartier, Paris, circa 1924 and has an estimate $1,800,000-2,200,000. Jewellery Historian034

33. PhotocourtesyofSOTHEBY'SSOTHEBY'S Jewellery Historian 035

34. Jewellery Historian036 PhotocourtesyofSOTHEBY'SSOTHEBY'S

35. Jewellery Historian 037 A Magnificent Platinum, 18 Karat Gold, Fancy Purplish Pink Diamond and Sapphire Ring Abeautifulcolorcombinationofanunmodifiedpear-shaped Fancy Purplish Pink diamond weighing 6.24 carats, set in auniquemountingwithtwocushion-cutKashmirsapphires of 2.44 and 2.36 carats. Estimate $2,500,000-3,500,000 Magnificent jewels at SOTHEBY'S New York

36. Magnificent jewels The Baron de Rothschild necklace Jewellery Historian038 Aprofileina1932editionof Voguestatedthat,TheBaronnede Rothschildisoneofthesmallgroupofwomenintheworldwho are internationally known for their great chic. Her taste in clothes,injewels,andinhousesisfaultless,andsheisaperson of outstanding distinction among the women of the present generation.Whenoneobservesthemagnificentsapphireand emeraldpendantnecklace,purchasedfromCartierin1924by theBaronEugnedeRothschildforhisnewbride,itisevident thatiswasonceinthecollectionofaworldrenownedtastemaker. Marking an important moment in the history of Art Deco jewelry design, this Cartier piece becomes all the more iconic when you look at the woman behind the jewel. BornCatherineWolffinPhiladelphia,PrettyKittyasshewas known was always destined to live a lavish international lifestyle. After studying music in Munich, she lived in New York with first husband Dandridge Sportswood, often traveling and socializing in Paris and London. In 1911 Catherine married Count Erwin Schoenborn of Austria; they met in Paris and resided in Vienna. Upon the end of her marriagetoSchoenbornin1924,CatherinemarriedtheBaron Eugne de Rothschild, of the famed international banking family.ThepresentCartierdesigndatestothesameyear,and was possibly a gift to celebrate the marriage. Itcomesasnosurprise,giventhecitiesandthesocialcirclesin whichtheBaronessresided,thatshewasoftencelebratedasone of the best dressed women of the time. In 1937 a group of elite FrenchdesignersincludingCocoChanel,ElsaSchiaparelliand Jeanne Lanvin (amongst others) named the Baroness de Rothschildthe5thbestdressedwomanintheworld.Thatyear thelistwastoppedbyMrs.HarrisonWilliams(laterknownas the Countess Mona von Bismarck). In 1938, Rothschild was named the 4th best dressed woman in the world, only to be surpassedbytheDuchessofKent,theDuchessofWindsorand Madame Antenor Patio (who topped the list). Around this same time, after abdicating the throne in 1936, the Duke of Windsor stayed with the de Rothschilds at their castle in Enzesfeld, Austria. While the Duke waited to marry Wallis Simpson,newspapersacrosstheglobewentwildaccountingfor eachstephetookwithintheRothschildestate.TheBaronand Baroness de Rothschild were one of the few guests invited to attendthe1937weddingoftheDukeandDuchessofWindsor, who made several trips back to Enzesfeld after their nuptials. By 1940 the Baron and Baroness had moved to New York; the BaronmadehisjourneyinAugustandtheBaronessfollowedin OctoberafterabriefstayinLisbon.AccordingtoanOctober6, 1940 article in the Chicago Tribune, She carried with her a collection of jewels, declaring their listed value at more than $100,000. Likely hand carried by the Baroness de Rothschild on her journey from Lisbon to New York, the sapphire and emerald necklacebyCartierhasadesignasstrikingandmodernasthe dayitwaspurchasedin1924.CreatedbyCartierschiefdesigner CharlesJacqueau,afrontrunneroftheboldArtDecoaesthetic, this jewel perfectly blends Eastern and Western motifs by modernizing the blue and green peacock patterns often seen Mughal jewels and artwork. Suspending three important Mughalstonescarvedwithfloralmotifs,thelargeremeraldis framed within a geometric lapis lazuli and diamond border. Composed of graduated Kashmir sapphire beads spaced by lapis lazuli and diamond rondelles, the length of the necklace wouldhaveperfectlysuitedthecolumnardressesofthe1920s, yetmaintainsthesamecontemporaryelegancewhenwornin the present day. In the style of Mughal Empire art, the necklace combining elements of Indian and Persian decorative traditions, the pendant suspending a hexagon-shaped emerald, an oval- shapedsapphireandapear-shapedemerald,allcarvedwith Mughalfloralmotifs,completedbyanecklacecomposedof41 sapphire beads, spaced by 80 lapis lazuli beads and diamond-set rondelles, further applied with diamond and lapis lazuli accents, length 29 inches, adjustable, signed Cartier, Paris, numbered 0310, with French assay and partial workshop marks; circa 1924. Designed by Charles Jacqueau for Cartier, Paris, circa 1924 Estimate $1,800,000-2,200,000 Text from the sale catalogue and reproduced with permission of Sotheby's at SOTHEBY'S New York

37. This Mughal Empire-style necklace was exhibited recently at the Denver Art Museum exhibition Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century. Created by Cartiers chief designer Charles Jacqueau, the blue and green necklace highlighted by three colored stones carved with Mughal floral motifs was acquired by Baron Eugene de Rothschild in 1924 for his new American wife Catherine. In 1927, Vogue wrote about the Baroness and her Cartier necklace in an article about the beautiful new jewels on the smartest women in Paris, stating that her taste in fashion and jewels was faultless. Jewellery Historian 039 PhotocourtesyofSOTHEBY'SSOTHEBY'S

39. Jewellery Historian 041 A Highly Important Platinum and Diamond Pendant-Necklace Suspending a pear-shaped diamond of 52.26 carats, D color, SI1 clarity, with excellent polish and symmetry Estimate $3,800,000-4,200,000 Magnificent jewels at SOTHEBY'S New York

41. A unique brooch, by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., France FormerlyintheCollectionofMrs.PaulMellon,thestylizedflowercenteringan octagonal-shapedmixed-cutsapphireweighingapproximately17.00carats, theframessetwithnumerousrounddiamondsweighingapproximately8.00 carats, signed Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger, Made in France, with French export marks; circa 1960. AsstatedinthecatalogueoftheexceptionalsaleatSothebys"Mrs.Mellonand Schlumbergerhadalong-standingfriendshiprootedintheirmutualpassion for horticulture; Schlumbergers designs often are inspired by flora and fauna,andlikeMrs.Mellonsgardeningstyletheyshareameticulousattention todetail.UsinganexceptionalKashmirsapphire,thepresentpieceresembles the vibrant flowers that decorate the grounds of Oak Spring Farms, the sprawling estate shared by Mr. and Mrs. Mellon in Upperville, Virginia. Mrs.MellonbequeathedherSchlumbergerjewelstotheVirginiaMuseumof Fine Art in Richmond, Virginia; among one of the rarest pieces in the museumscollectionisaflowerpotfrom1960,featuringabejeweledsunflower burstingfromaterracottapotfromMrs.Mellonsgreenhouse.Althoughthe flowercurrentlycentersanamethyst,itwasreportedlyfirstcenteredbyan impressive sapphire. It remains unknown if the present brooch was the originalcentertotheflowerpotwork;however,therearestrikingsimilarities between the quality of the current sapphire and accounts of the original Schlumbergerpiece.AquotefromSchlumbergerinthebooktitledTheJewels of Jean Schlumberger (page 46), notes, Sometimes that led me to find solutionsthatwerefunratherthanpractical.Oneday,adealerbroughtmea singularlybeautifulKashmirsapphire,knownasTheDancingGirlofIndia. I was astonished by it, and proposed it to someone who greatly loved special things.Hiswife,Iknew,didntliketowearlargestones,butshelovedgardens, andthatshowthatsapphire-turned-flowerendedupgrowinginarealterra- cotta flowerpot selected from her greenhouse! " Estimate $750,000-1,000,000 Text from the auction catalogue and used with permission of SOTHEBY'S Jewellery Historian 043 Magnificent jewels at SOTHEBY'S New York

43. Magnificent jewels 'Tutti Frutti' Bracelet, Cartier, New York TheepitomeofEasterninfluencesonArtDecodesigns,tuttifruttipiecesby Cartier are jeweled masterpieces. The artful arrangement of carved colored stonesanddiamonds,togetherwiththepreciseapplicationofblackenamelall serve to tell a jeweled story that only Cartier could author. After first being exhibited at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Dcoratifs et IndustrielsModernesinParis,thetuttifruttistylerapidlygainedpopularity amongstthemostfashionablewomenanddiscerningjewelrycollectorsofthe time such as Mrs. Cole Porter and Daisy Fellowes. Perhaps what is most mesmerizing about these iconic jewels is that each creation is completely unique. As with colored stones and diamonds, tutti fruttijewelsmayshareresemblanceshowevernotwoareeverthesame.What makes this a quintessential tutti frutti piece is the large presence of carved emeraldsandrubies,connectedthroughoutbyadiamond-setvine,aswellas the chevron motif on the clasp, seen on similar examples of the style. What makesthisanexceptionaltuttifruttipiece,however,isthedelicateframing appliedaroundeachjeweledflowerandleaf,theblackenamelprovidingadded contrasttoeachstonewhilealsocreatingaharmoniousbalancethroughout. ThesupremelyArtDeco-styleclasp,withitssleekgeometry,servesasstylized vasesfromwhichthetuttifruttivinemaygrowandflourishfromendtoend of the bracelet. As iconic as the floral festoons which adorn its original fitted case, this tutti fruttibraceletbeautifullyshowcasestheultimatecraftsmanshipforwhich Cartier is known. Tutti frutti designs have long been enchanting jewelry connoisseurs;thepresentexamplewithitsvibranthuesandhighlyflexible form is both a wonder to see and a wonder to wear. Estimate $1,300,000-1,800,000 The above text is from the official auction catalogue and used with permission of SOTHEBY'S Jewellery Historian 045 at SOTHEBY'S New York

44. Jewellery Historian046 The Monarch Blue Diamond An Important Platinum, Rose Gold, Fancy Blue Diamond and Colored Diamond Ring Centering an oval-shaped mixed cut Fancy Blue diamond of 6.06 carats, VVS2 clarity and complemented with six pink-hued round diamonds. Estimate $3,500,000-4,500,000 Magnificent jewels at SOTHEBY'S New York

45. Jewellery Historian 047 PhotocourtesyofSOTHEBY'SSOTHEBY'S

46. Cover story

47. Jewellery Historian050 PhotocourtesyofMEGHNAJEWELS MEGHNAJEWELS cover story PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY

48. Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery was founded in 2007 and caters to the most discerning clientele, who value individuality in every aspect of their image. The Swiss- based high-end jewellery house is a family business with Russian and Greek heritage. A strong work ethic is reflected in the company culture, where every member of the team is committed to providing the highest levels of service and creating a full brand experience. The company mission is to provide timeless designs, unaffected by changing trends, for elite clientele wishing to highlight their individuality. Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery aims to fill the gap in the market for a fine jewellery house offering bespoke and limited edition pieces of innovative design with classic elements, which will rival mass- produced luxury jewellery brands. It is important to highlight and accentuate the beauty and character of the wearer, ensuring the creations are pleasing to the eye and have emotional appeal, which can subsequently create an emotional connection. High quality and craftsmanship translate the poetry of the designers vision into innovative pieces, which can be cherished for many years to come. Deep meaning embedded in every piece communicates the stories and elements of inspiration reflective of the designers experiences. Delicate and thoughtful designs with multicultural influences showcase a definitive design signature. Intricate pieces reflect the delicate nature of the relationship of the wearer and jewellery as D e s i g n e r s p a s s i o n f o r f i n e j e w e l l e r y Jewellery Historian 051 PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY MARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY M A R I A K O N D A K O V A

49. > All creations are very special and come made-to-order or in a limited edition. Many have been specifically designed for the brands very special clients. Every element of every jewel is carefully sourced and selected to fit the fairy tale that is Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery. The brand prides itself on achieving the highest levels of quality and innovation by working with the most outstanding craftsmen in Italy and using the latest technology, which makes the creations a truly exceptional choice for those seeking unique and personal expression in every aspect of their lives. This year at Baselworld 2015, Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery presented a number of bespoke creations alongside the new YouVdiamonds collection. Bespoke pieces are the core of the brand, as the creative director loves to work with private clients and to create unique and exciting pieces. In the world of mass- produced luxury jewellery, customers expect more than just good quality from their jewellery and thus Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery seeks to establish a long standing connection and relationship with clients wishing to have truly unique pieces. Most of the brands clients look for rare and bespoke creations with a personal touch, which reflects the essence of their distinctive thinking. Maria works directly with clients to create pieces tailored to a certain occasion or theme or to produce designs with particular stones. Both the creative director and the client take part in the design process, creating the story surrounding the piece, thus connecting the aesthetics of the brand and the individuality of the client. Being open to clients feedback generates a two-way communication resulting in couture-like pieces that hold a special place in the heart of the client. The combination of thoughtful design, strong concept and exceptional craftsmanship, along with Marias curiosity about modern technologies in jewellery design and production, makes the creations an exceptional choice for those looking for individuality in every detail of their image. Customers are invited to indulge in the feeling of being adorned by truly unique and precious art, compressed in the smallest forms. Beauty of the YouVdiamonds collection YouVdiamonds by Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery is a unique, limited edition collection, which is to be unveiled at Baselworld 2015. YouVdiamonds will lead you to the truly personal and exclusive world of Maria Kondakova jewellery, where every piece is made with passion, exceptional craftsmanship and great attention to detail. Thoughtful and inspirational design instilled in each creation showcases the designers passion for fine jewellery as an art form. Each piece tells a story, beautifully conveying the emotion and the poetry of the designers vision. This limited edition collection comprises 11 designs and features a variety of sizes > Jewellery Historian052

50. Jewellery Historian 053 PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY

51. PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY MARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY Jewellery Historian054

52. The elegance of yoga asanas is encapsulated in precious metals, which projects a light of inner spirit found in yoga practice. The light plays on the gemstone facets reflecting chakra colours, connecting your body and soul through precious amulets. PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY MARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY Jewellery Historian 055

53. > in charms and pendants, to suit the individual taste of every client. All pieces are made in 18kt gold, pav set with diamonds of 2 to 10.5 total carat weight, depending on the size and design. The exclusivity of the YouVdiamonds creations is highlighted by a very difficult and time-consuming diamond sorting and precise pave setting process, which took years to develop and perfect. To create the sought-after effect in every piece, MK Fine Jewellery specialists go through an extensive amount of diamonds, a process which takes days to source stones just for one creation. The magic of the collection shines in every piece, which transforms under ultraviolet light to unravel the captivating world of YouVdiamonds. Some diamonds hide an incredible inner light, which can only be seen in special surroundings. Conveying the design inspiration, which relates to the importance of self-belief and self-growth, each creation reveals that we all have wings that could take us to any heights, any horizons, if only we believe. Impossible to guess at first glance, the magic inside the jewel will remain your treasure until you are ready to share it. Maria used fluorescence to create a really gorgeous collection. Fluorescence is the visible light that a diamond emits when it is exposed to an ultraviolet rays. Diamond fluorescence, in its most simple form, is the effect that ultraviolet (UV) light has on a diamond. As a gemologist, with studies at the world-known Gemological Institute of America, Maria used an effect to her creations that truly makes them magic. Maria uses diamonds that have very high fluorescence in order to achieve the desired image under UV light. Each stone is carefully hand-picked to guarantee perfect fit for each creation. To create this unique effect, the specialists at Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery, go through an extensive amount of diamonds, a process which takes days to source stones just for one creation. The strenght of fluorescence required to create the desired effect can only be found in 3 to 5 % of the sorted diamonds, consequently making each piece is a truly valuable process. Same piece, under different light. Under UV light we can see the wings, which are hidden under daylight. PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY Jewellery Historian056

54. To create these unique creations, the specialists at Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery, go through an extensive amount of diamonds, a process which takes days to source stones just for one creation.. PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY Jewellery Historian 057

55. Jewellery Historian058 PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY MARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY

56. Jewellery Historian 059 PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY MARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY

57. Jewellery Historian060 PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY

61. Jewellery Historian064 You are unique. There is no one like you in the world. You deserve to have a special, precious gift that is completely exclusive and made upon your specification, just as you desire. There will only be one piece in the world, unique, just like you.

63. Jewellery Historian066 PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY

66. Jewellery Historian 069 Maria's ironic designs made with beautifully crafted carvings give coral a new meaning. Stories hidden in these jewels are waiting for you to discover them. PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY MARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY

68. Jewellery Historian 071 Natures gift of unique minerals in vivid, magical colors will accentuate your feminine beauty and mirror your nature and distinctive character. PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY MARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY

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72. T h e p a s s i o n a t e a r t i s t M A R I A K O N D A K O V A The launch and widely anticipated unveiling of the YouVdiamonds collection at Basel World 2015 attracted the world ofnMaria Kondakova's jewellery. The magic of the collection shines in every piece, which transforms under ultraviolet light to unravel the captivating world of YouVdiamonds, which took years to develop and perfect. Thoughtful and inspirational design instilled in each creation showcases the designers passion for fine jewellery as an art form. Jewellery Historian 075

73. Russian born creative jewellery designer, Maria Kondakova-Kaltsidis, has had a long but very exciting journey to get to where she is now. Born in Moscow, Maria spent her childhood there, growing up in a family which enjoyed travelling and exploring new places. This instilled curiosity and passion for expressing herself through art. As a child, she visited studios of various artists, seeking her own style and learning to play with form, shape and texture. This creative journey continued as Maria attended various art courses and learned about history of art. Impressionism is very close to her heart as impressionists also tried to capture a certain moment. Maria was inspired to continue her creative path and decided to go and study in London, at Central Saint Martins. Starting with a Foundation Course in Art and Design, Maria continued with a BA in Jewellery Design. This enabled her to learn to design and create something very personal to her and her way of expression. Strong concept development ensured that behind every piece there must be a certain meaning, concept or idea. Saint Martins was very much about the importance of the concept but in Italy Maria learned that jewellery can be both aesthetically pleasant to the eye and comfortable to wear. She was soon able to communicate and translate her thoughts and feelings in a manner that is closer to her perception of beauty and to connect Italian aesthetics with a part of the sole, creating something very personal. Maria then went on to study at the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) in London where she learnt about the magical world of gemstones. She got her General Gemologist Diploma and launched her own brand in 2007, working with private clients as well as starting to develop other collections including the YouVdiamonds collection unveiled at Baselworld 2015. At the same time as launching her brand, she embarked on another adventure and started a family. She now has two kids and a supporting husband. Travel continued to be a big part of Marias life as she lived in London, Zurich and currently lives in Moscow. Her distinctive design signature is evident in all pieces as Maria creates modern classics that combine all multicultural influences. Italian aesthetics are blended with cutting edge design and her Russian soul, open to embrace everything new. When did you found the company? Where? What were you doing before then? The company was founded in London in 2007, just after graduating from Central Saint Martins where I was doing a BA in Jewellery Design. What or whom inspired you to become a jewellery designer? During my time at the foundation course at Central Saint Martins, I got a chance to try a number of disciplines and jewellery design was one of them. It instantly became a passion of mine as it gave me the opportunity to express my ideas, however big, > Jewellery Historian076

74. PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY Jewellery Historian 077

75. > in the smallest forms. Saint Martins was very much about the importance of the concept but in Italy I learned that jewellery can be both beautiful and conceptual. I was soon able to communicate and translate my thoughts and feelings in a manner that is closer to my perception of beauty and to connect Italian aesthetics with a part of my sole, creating something personal to me and my way of expression. How did you progress to where you are now? I progressed to where I am now through hard work. It took many years to get to where I am now as I have a family and juggling the two is difficult at times, but it is important for me to continue expressing myself through my art and to take the brand to the next level. Where did your inspiration come from for your YouVdiamond collection ? The idea was born during my studies at the Gemological Institute of America, where I learned about fluorescence in diamonds. The idea of exporing this effect and incorporating into my designs stayed in my mind for years until I was able to apply it to a truly personal and unique collection. What is your philosophy and why you designed wings ? I was inspired by eleents of the journey one takes through life. The process of formation of an individual, a personality and a path ahead are all deeply rooted in oursleves. Even though at times we deviate from our true selves, we need to stop and reflect, look beyond any covers or shields. We often forget that throught life we carry an inner light, certain strength and potenital, which has been gifted to us at birth. This unique gift can help us reach harmony and desired horizons. All we need is to believe in oursleves, our ability and strength. But how we can do that ? Learn to look inside yourself to find the wings you have been given from the start. What do you highlight with this collection ? Exploring the notion of purity int eh idea of childhood and infancy allowed me to highlight the unique identity and mystery instilled in each baby from birth. Pure angels arrive with a secret path of the future ahead, a truly secret of whom the baby is to become and what talents, strength and potential he or she may possess. So, they are baby angel wings ? The wings are not just a symbol of the essence of an angel but a symbol of being able to reach the heights which are meant for each baby from birth. The mystery of a unique identity is presented in these pieces, reflecting the eep meaning instilled in each creation. What do you like and dislike about the jewellery available today? Many companies now sacrifice design in order to keep costs down. Designs are more simple and commercial and there arent > Jewellery Historian078

77. > many companies who hand-make bespoke jewellery. Everything is becoming mechanized and simplified. It is important to support craftsmen who put their heart and sole into creating jewellery. We are not against technology altogether, we are interested in using it to find creative solutions in order to make some interesting and innovative designs come to life. It is important for Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery to support and work with these amazing craftsmen who translate years of their experience into making very special pieces. There arent many such highly skilled creaftsmen left and so we want to work with them and to preserve their skills and trade as well as to create special jewellery, pieces of art with their hands. What is your favourite piece of your jewellery? What are you most proud of creating? I love all MK Fine Jewellery pieces, as each creation has a special meaning and story behind it. The latest collection, YouVdiamonds, is definitely one of my favourite to work on, especially the Sweet Dreams piece, which is dedicated to my first son. Tanzinite whispers collection is also very close to my heart because of my fascination with the stone, with which I got acquainted in its beautiful motherland Tanzania. We experimented a lot technically during the creation of this collection, which made it very interesting for me. > PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERYMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY Jewellery Historian080

79. > Can clients choose to design their own pieces? Is there anything you simply couldnt do for them? I am happy to take on any piece, which inspires me creatively and allows to explore and innovate. However, I wouldnt take on pieces which go against my morals or aesthetics. Do you have a typical customer? How would you define them? So far, all my customers have been people seeking unique pieces to reflect their own vision and ideas. Most of them have plenty of expensive jewellery from world-famous jewellery houses but these pieces do not reflect or highlight their individuality. Whereas other customers want to invest in something special which will be dear to them and remind of a special moment in their life. Mass produced fine jewellery is available to buy in boutiques worldwide and so does not offer the emotional qualities my clients are seeking. Now luxury consumers want more exclusive pieces, they dont want to have the same jewellery as others in their social. What has been your greatest accomplishment? Combing work and family life in order to achieve what I have and now moving on to the next stage and presenting the brand to a wider-audience. If you werent a jewellery designer, what do you think you would do? I love to paint and so I think that if I wasnt a jewellery designer, I would be an artist. I would express my creativity through paintings. What are your plans for the future? Immediate plans for the future include taking the brand to the next level and exploring new markets. Jewellery Historian082

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82. PhotocourtesyofTAPBYTODDPOWNELL TAPBYTODDPOWNELL Jewellery Historian086

83. Jewellery Historian 087 TAP Jewelry designs evolve from emotion to (aesthetic) experience and back. Romanticism underlies the forms of expression within the jewelry. The interaction of dark and light metals mixed with fine gold and diamonds combine to evoke a strong sense of mystery and sublime nature. The diamonds are bead set upside-down onto the surface in pave or scattered across the piece. This reverse setting effectively captures and reflects light in a succession of broad flashes from oblique angles creating the feeling of twilight. The emotive experience is primary with passions held over order and the senses are moved into the pleasures of the imagination. TAP by Todd Pownell is a Cleveland based jewelry design studio gaining new attention with fresh compositions. Using combinations of dark and light metals, texture, inverted diamonds and cage settings; TAP jewelry designs have an air of mystery by catching the eye and engaging the senses. Their signature style of bead setting diamonds upside down reflects the romantic feeling of twilight. "The experience of melting steel rods together years ago in shop class started me on my journey towards working with metals and using my hands to make objects. As I studied and explored metals, I began working on a smaller scale with nonferrous metals and copper to create miniature metal boxes. Once I was exposed to silver and gold my seduction was complete and the decision to make jewelry came naturally." says Todd, while talking about the beginning of his love affair with precious metals. "I honed my skills working with fine jewelers and learned to set many different types of fascinating gemstones which led me to study gemology. I was mesmerized with the internal properties of crystal structure, refractive indexes, variations and hardness of gems. Monetary displays of gems and solely decorative uses were uninteresting to me and instead I admired gemstones for their intrinsic properties and their ability to naturally interact with light. Today, I work as an artist in the tradition of the independent studio craftsmen and jewelry becomes a vehicle for expressive desires and nomadic T O D D P O W N E L L RESPECT FOR THE INNATE PROPERTIES OF THE MATERIALS

84. Jewellery Historian088 The interaction of dark and light metals mixed with fine gold and diamonds combine to evoke a strong sense of mystery and sublime nature.

85. Jewellery Historian 089 PhotocourtesyofTAPBYTODDPOWNELL TAPBYTODDPOWNELL

86. Jewellery Historian090 > I approach the process of making jewelry with an honest respect for the innate qualities of materials. Noble metals and gemstones have strong qualities of order and structure within their internal nature and this arouses my sense of admiration and attention for the craft of making jewelry objects. My work begins with the thought and recollection that procrastination is the thief of time as in Night-Thoughts by Edward Young. With trepidation I enter the process of making jewelry (which is always chaos, yet filled with joys and struggle too). The chaos of the process conspires with my respect of the material to create finished pieces that exist with those traces of chaos and order. The intended visual effect is similar to the tensions of a gathering storm in the night sky or the effect low angled light cast across a landscape has upon the gazing eye. In 2008 Todd focussed on developing his design jewelry line; Tap by Todd Pownell that has since grown from a two to a four person workshop. It is sold in stores and galleries throughout the United States. Todd has taught and given numerous lectures and workshops focus- ing on topics including, stone setting, fabrication and sharing incites into building a viable studio. He is a Graduate Gemologist whose work has been featured in publications including the Lark Books series. In 2013 was named recipient of Clevelands Seth Rosenberg prize and was recently honored with the Mort Abelson Best New Designer of the Year Award. Todd is also a Member of Ethical Metalsmiths, Jewelers for social and environmental responsibility, who support ethical mining, sourcing their materials in the most responsible manner while operating their studios with green practices. Jewelers for social and environmental PhotocourtesyofTAPBYTODDPOWNELL TAPBYTODDPOWNELL

88. Jewellery Historian092 PhotocourtesyofTAPBYTODDPOWNELL TAPBYTODDPOWNELL

93. Jewellery Historian 097 The intended visual effect is similar to the tensions of a gathering storminthenightskyor theeffectlowangledlight castacrossalandscape has upon the gazing eye.

96. Jewellery Historian100

100. GET ALL ISSUES F R E E D O W N L O A D F R E E S U B S C R I T I O N

103. Jewellery Historian 107 Fromthebeginningofourcivilization,thetimesofZoroasterand Babylon,manhasattemptedtoreconnecttotheuniversewithits magnificentandmysteriousbeautyofshimmeringlightsinthe night sky. Jasmin Djahanchahi has always been driven by a passion to createbeautyinfluencedbyherlovefortheancientZoroastrian valuesandherappreciationofmodernwesternart.Designingis her world, her essential way of expression. Jazychic in synergy with Stockert & Cie. launches its first collectionofhighjewelrycreations.Aseriesoftrulyuniqueand masterfully crafted zodiac pendants, innovative and enchanting, strikingly elegant and very precious. in touch with the stars JazyChic

104. Jewellery Historian108 PhotocourtesyofJAZYCHIC JAZYCHIC

105. Jasmin Djahanchahi has always been driven by a passion to create beauty influenced by her love for the ancient Zoroastrian values and her appreciation of modern western art. Designing is her world, her essential way of expression. Being of German and Persian heritage and having lived in many different locations worldwide gives her a truly multifaceted flair, reflected in all of her work. With a solid background in high-end interior design with her own line of furniture the change of scale was tremendous and greatly seductive. Her creations embody simplicity and a fine sense of harmony and balance, her very personal translation of unconventional wisdom into objects of desire. Timeless objects that reveal unlimited imagination and a fresh vision of glamour intended to grace the modern woman and to accentuate her beauty and elegance. From the beginning of our civilization, the times of Zoroaster and Babylon, man has attempted to reconnect to the universe with its magnificent and mysterious beauty of shimmering lights in the night sky. In the pursuance of Excellency only the very best of materials and the most skillful artisans have been selected to manufacture Jazychics unique pieces of jewelry. This collection was created with the profound intention to unite the most precious materials in the finest combinations. Love for texture and color combined with great attention to detail have resulted in truly desirable objects that display diligent German Expertise in craftsmanship of the highest quality. Manufactured entirely by STOCKERT & Cie. in Pforzheim, the Gold town of Germany, all pieces are of genuine value and will be possessed and worn with joy and proudly passed on to the next generation. JazyChic Jewellery Historian 109 in touch with the stars

106. >shimmering stars of the night sky. About the complex world of our emotions, our spirit and our self esteem. By the means of exquisite materials, shapes and colors, fluid light reflections and playful textures the opulence of deep thought is captured in splendor. A most glamorous gift that will light up the heart of each woman. Multifaceted in design with passion and precision, translated and manufactured immaculately by Stockert & Cie. with the finest, intricate craftsmanship in the most luxurious way. This collection was created with the profound intention to unite the most precious materials in the finest combinations. Love for texture and color combined with great attention to detail have resulted in truly desirable objects that display diligent German Expertise in craftsmanship of the highest quality. Manufactured entirely by STOCKERT & Cie. in Pforzheim, the Gold town of Germany, all pieces are of genuine value and will be possessed and worn with joy and proudly passed on to the next generation. In addition to clear-cut design, Stockert employs the most modern standards to fashion its products. Each piece of jewellery in their Collection is unique and carefully created with ultimate dedication by experienced goldsmiths and precious stone setters, handcraft at its highest form. Most precious materials Stockert & Cie. uses only first class materials from all over the world. Eighteen-karat gold or platinum is preferred in combination with precious stones in their natural tones, high quality pearls and selected diamonds. Inner attitudes take on unique forms An ambitious company since 1879: Christian Stockert of Stockert & Cie. leads this business successfully into its fourth generation. This internationally savvy businessman is quite at home with his collection around the world. Inspite of this inherent cosmopolitan flair, down- to-earth virtues such as diligence, discipline, honesty and precision are highly evident at Stockert & Cie. This company stands tall in Pforzheim, Germany with its team of 18 hand- picked staff, each specially selected for their singularly skilled expertise. Jewellery Historian110

107. Jewellery Historian 111 PhotocourtesyofJAZYCHIC JAZYCHIC

108. Jewellery Historian112 Gemini pendant Endlessly charming, in free spirit and youthful exuberance with a constant appetite to expand the mental hori- zon. Chrysoprase stones exhilarate your optimism.

110. Jewellery Historian114 PhotocourtesyofJAZYCHIC JAZYCHIC

111. Jewellery Historian 115 CAPRICORN pendant Immensely disciplined, attentive and dedicated. Perceived by others as very stylish and cultured, with a profound resource of emotional strength and earthy endurance. Turquoise stones magically "protect" your health.

112. Jewellery Historian116 CANCER pendant Radiantly feminine, gentle and supportive with an extraordinary intensity to protect the loved ones in complete devotion. Pink Tourmalines present you extra joy and well being.

114. Jewellery Historian118 LEO pendant Sincerely generous, dignified and magnetic with a love for luxury and exclusivity in splendor. Allow your intuition and clairvoyance to be powered by Diamonds.

116. Subscribe for FREE Don't miss any issue. Visit today www.jewelleryhistorian.com and subscribe for free. You will receive every new issue for free in your mailbox at the moment of publication.

117. Jewellery Historian122 PhotocourtesyofGARRARDGARRARD

118. Over 275 years of rich heritage Garrard has formed a reputation for distinguished craftsmanship, utmost attention to detail and everlasting prestige, emphasised by the commissions received from Royalty all around the world. With over 275 years of rich heritage,Garrardhasmetthechallengetoharnessitsunique past with modern day relevance. Garrards combination of tradition and contemporary design is synonymous with creatingmagnificentjewellerytoday,tobecomeheirloomsfor tomorrow. Jewellery Historian 123 GARRARD

119. Jewellery Historian124 2 8 0 y e a r s o f r i c h h e r i t a g e GARRARD Garrards history of luxury and grandeur began in 1735 whenjournalentriesstartwithaBritishRoyalcommission for Frederick, Prince of Wales, followed by many more for international royalty and the upper echelons of societyworldwide.Garrardhassincehadthehonourof serving each successive King and Queen of Great Britain. With over 275 years of rich heritage, Garrard has met the challenge to harness its unique past with modern dayrelevance.Garrardscombinationoftraditionand contemporary design is inspiring. Their in-house design team creates innovative collections as well as unique one-of-a-kind treasures using only the finest gems in the world. Their High Jewellery, is handcrafted in London. Each piece is carefullyandintricatelydesignedfortheclientseeking perfectionintheaestheticandverifiesthattheGarrard design ethos is abundant with luxury, comfort and style. Garrard has an illustrious story with the Royal family. This illustrious story began in 1840 when Prince Albert commissioned the house to create a striking sapphire andwhitediamondclusterbroochasaweddinggiftto his future wife, Queen Victoria of England. The great romance blossomed with nine children, of which the eldest son, Edward, the Prince of Wales, would commissionGarrardforadiamondandpearlparureas a gift to his future bride, Princess Alexandra of Denmark in 1863. Garrard continued to serve the British Royal family and by 1919, the firm was credited for designing and crafting Queen Marys Fringe Tiara. Inspired by emerging Russian trends, the tiara was a cherished modern piece and later worn by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II on her wedding day in 1947. In 1981 Charles, the Prince of Wales, chose a Garrard sapphire and diamond cluster engagement ring. The vibrant and striking ring worn by Diana, Princess of Wales was bequeathed to Prince William, Duke of Cambridge and presented to Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge upon their engagement in 2011. A Garrard engagement ring preserves its classic beauty becoming a cherished heirloom to be passed down through generations. Garrard celebrated its 280th anniversary with the launch of its exquisite new Bow collection at the 2015 Baselworld fair. The Bow collection features elegant signature pieces, crafted in rose gold and delicately highlighted in diamonds, as well as awe-inspiring diamond creations including contemporary up-the-ear earrings and double-finger ring. The collection includes two remarkable High Jewellery necklaces, embracing the Garrard values of traditional craftsmanship and forward-thinkingdesign.Theremagnificentpiecescan be worn in a multitude of ways, creating a complete, matching High Jewellery set. In its modern day interpretation, the bow is a symbol of celebration,asaribbonisoftentiedasamementoofan anniversary or birthday, marking a special occasion in life.EachtimelesspieceoftheBowcollectioniscreated fromasoftflowingribbonofgoldanddiamonds,gently tied in a bow to capture an everlasting moment of celebration that will appeal to women around the world. Garrard. Creating magnificent jewellery today, to become heirlooms of tomorrow.

120. Jewellery Historian 125 PhotocourtesyofGARRARDGARRARD

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137. Jewellery Historian142 Pink tourmaline and diamond ring handcrafted with a 15.03 carat cushion pink tourmaline center stone accented with 0.77 carats of brilliant diamond rounds set in platinum and 18K rose gold. Ring by OMI Priv PhotocourtesyofOMIPRIV OMIPRIV

138. Tourmaline probably holds the first place among the most colorful gemstones known. A fact that most people do not know is that tourmalines are not simply pretty gems but they are a group of minerals that contains more than 10 species with complex chemical compositions, which are responsible for the gems beautiful variety of hues. Tourmaline possible colours range from colorless to pure black, including all the rainbow hues and all tones possible, while it is also very famous for the amazing combinations of several colours that occur together in one crystal. The name tourmaline is said to derive from a Sinhalese word meaning mixed colored stones originally applied to groups of gemstones of various species. One of the major sources of tourmaline is South America where many misnomers are used to describe the different varieties. For example green tourmaline is often erroneously referred to as Brazilian emerald or blue tourmaline is wrongfully called Brazilian sapphire, as a reference to those famous gems. Because of tourmalines wide variety of possible colours it has often been used to imitate or was mistaken for other gemstones. One of those historic misunderstandings is a piece from the Russian Crown jewels collection that for years was though to carry a large ruby but the gem was later found to be a red tourmaline. Tourmaline was also prized through history. Chinese emperors admired this gemstones beauty and were buying large quantities that they often carved in intricate shapes for practical and decorative objects such as buttons and toggles for the clothing of the royals and the wealthy. Chinese empress Tzu Hsi loved tourmaline so much especially the pink one mined in California- that after using it as an ornament throughout her life, she requested a tourmaline pillow for her eternal rest. Some objects of sensational beauty and craftsmanship such as snuff bottles carved out of tourmaline are seen in Tourmaline Jewellery Historian 143 The unique breathtaking beauty of gems by Eva Kountouraki

139. Jewellery Historian144 > Tourmaline, apart from its beauty, is naturally gifted with some features that are of great interest to the scientific community. In fact, tourmaline is a pyroelectric and piezoelectric mineral, meaning that it can develop an electrostatic charge when heated or pressed along specific directions. Its piezoelectricity is a useful property that has found many industrial applications like in the production of pressure gauges for sensitive equipment for submarines or even for the measurements of bomb blast power. The Dutch traders who brought tourmaline to the European markets were using these properties in their everyday life, before those were scientifically proven. In fact, they would heat tourmaline crystals by rubbing them, in order to clean the ashes from their pipes, as they have found out that tourmalines electrical charge could attract small particles and dust.> An amazing Paraiba tourmaline ring by Carla Amorim PhotocourtesyofCARLAAMORIM CARLAAMORIM

140. Jewellery Historian 145 PhotocourtesyofDANIELAVILLEGAS DIANIELAVILLEGAS A gorgeous ring by Daniela Villegas with a watermelon tourmaline

141. Jewellery Historian146 One of the rarest and most highly prized and priced tourmalines is the one discovered in 1989 in Paraba Brazil, and named after this location. The paraba tourmalines exhibit an incredibly intense blue-green colour with such a high saturation that is often described as neon blue. These amazing earrings with paraiba tourmalines by Orlov, has been previously shown in our issue 3

142. Jewellery Historian 147 PhotocourtesyofORLOV ORLOVjewelry

143. > Tourmaline is breathtakingly beautiful in all its colours and the combinations of them, and the most intense and highly saturated hues are the ones that are preferred in the market and require high prices. Intense reds, mysterious blues and pure greens, multicolored or watermelon a beautiful variety of tourmaline that resembles this fruit as it has a green outer rim and pink to red core-, you can find a tourmaline to satisfy every taste! One of the rarest and most highly prized and priced tourmalines is the one discovered in 1989 in Paraba Brazil, and named after this location. The paraba tourmalines exhibit an incredibly intense blue- green colour with such a high saturation that is often described as neon blue. This exquisite type of tourmaline has been found also in some African mines; still the high quality Brazilian material often requires premium prices in the market. In order to be called paraba, this tourmaline must exhibit equal amounts of blue and green pleochroic hues and have vivid saturation. Too blue, too green, too dark or too light, cannot qualify as paraba and will not fetch the prices of a true high quality paraba, although they may still be gorgeous. Tourmaline is a hard and durable gemstone that with proper care can last for centuries. However it requires sensitive handling -just like all the precious things- as well as protection from harsh use and sharp blows. Humans were always dazzled by the beauty of tourmalines colours. An ancient Egyptian legend has it that tourmaline has travelled a long journey from the earths core towards the sun and collected all the rainbow colours along the way.. Because its beautiful colours are directly connected to the chemistry of the environment in which it forms, slight changes in the chemical and physical conditions result in variations in the colours of the growing crystal, naturally giving almost all tourmalines a unique look and character. Jewellery Historian148 Earrings set with Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds by Carla Amorim PhotocourtesyofCARLAAMORIM CARLAAMORIM

144. Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Management Diploma, gainingspecializedknowledgeabout all the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design. Evas brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaborationwiththeItalianbranchof GIA. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world. AttheJewelleryHistorianweareproud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki andhermonthlycolumnineveryissue. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the unique breathtaking beauty of gems. Eva Kountouraki Jewellery Historian 149 These OMI Priv Pink tourmaline and diamond earrings handrafted with 11.26 carats of pear shaped pink tourmalines accented with 0.62 carats of brilliant diamond rounds set in 18K rose gold. PhotocourtesyofOMIPRIV OMIPRIV

145. Jewellery Historian150 In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life. In this issue we invite you in our "Printemps animalier". Our Faves

147. Jewellery Historian152 Our Faves SYLVIE CORBELIN

148. Jewellery Historian 153 SYLVIE CORBELIN ILIAS LALAOUNIS FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY BORGIONI

149. Jewellery Historian154 Our Faves SHAWISH GENEVE

150. Jewellery Historian 155 LEYLA ADBOLLAHI LYDIA COURTEILLE LE VIAN JAZYCHIC

151. Jewellery Historian156 Our Faves MORPHE JOAILLERIE

152. Jewellery Historian 157 CARRERA Y CARRERA NIKOS KOULIS LYDIA COURTEILLE ELENA SYRAKA

153. Jewellery Historian158 Our Faves MAGERIT JOYAS

154. Jewellery Historian 159 BORGIONI MAGERIT JOYASELENA SYRAKA

155. Our Faves Jewellery Historian160 LEYLA ABDOLLAHI

156. Jewellery Historian 161 NIKOS KOULIS GARRARD CROW'S NEST FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY

157. Our Faves Jewellery Historian162 MAGERIT JOYAS

158. Jewellery Historian 163 MAGERIT JOYAS LYDIA COURTEILLE ZOLOTAS ELENA SYRAKA CARRERA Y CARRERA

159. address book ADLER www.adler-joailliers.com AVAKIAN www.avakian.com ANA DE COSTA www.anadecosta.com CARRERA Y CARRERA www.carreraycarrera.com CHIMENTO www.chimento.it CROW'S NEST www.crowsnestjewels.com CHRISTIE'S www.christies.com DANIELA VILLEGAS www.danielavillegas.com ELENA SYRAKA www.elenasyraka.com FABERG www.faberge.com FANOURAKIS www.fanourakis.gr FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY www.farahkhanfinejewellery.com GARRARD www.garrard.com GUMUCHIAN www.gumuchian.com ILIAS LALAOUNIS www.iliaslalaounis.com JAZYCHIC www.jazychic.com JEWELLERY THEATRE www.jewellerytheatre.com LE VIAN www.levian.com LEYLA ABDOLLAHI www.leyla-abdollahi.com LYDIA COURTEILLE www.lydiacourteille.com MAGERIT JOYAS www.mageritjoyas.com MORPHE JOAILLERIE www.morphee-joaillerie.com MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY www.mariakondakova.com MOUSSON ATELIER www.moussonatelier.ru NIKOS KOULIS www.nikoskoulis.gr OMI PRIV www.omiprive.com ORLOV JEWELRY www.orlovjewelry.com SOTHEBY'S www.sothebys.com SYLVIE CORBELLIN www.sylvie-corbelin.com/sc/ SHAWISH www.shawish.ch TAP by TODD POWNELL www.tapbytoddpownell.com ZOLOTAS www.zolotas.gr brands featured in this issue Jewellery Historian164

161. esthte Une personne qui considre l'art comme une valeur essentielle Jewellery Historian166

162. Jewellery Historian 167 PhotocourtesyofMAGERITJOYASMAGERITJOYAS Earrings by Magerit Joyas

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