johnson 1958-72

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1 SAFETY

INTRODUCTION CLEANING, WAXING,

AND POLISHING CONTROLLING CORROSION PROPELLERS FUEL SYSTEM LOADING HORSEPOWER FLOTATION EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT COMPASS STEERING ANCHORS MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT BOATING ACCIDENT REPORTS NAVIGATION

2 N NING

INTRODUCTION TUNE-UP SEQUENCE COMPRESSION CHECK SPARK PLUG INSPECTION IGNITION SYSTEM SYNCHRONIZING BATTERY SERVICE CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS FUEL PUMPS STARTER AND SOLENOID INTERNAL WIRING HARNESS WATER PUMP CHECK PROPELLER LOWER UNIT BOAT TESTING

3 POWERHEAD

INTRODUCTION Theory of Operation

CHAPTER ORGANIZATION

POWERHEAD DISASSEMBLING

HEAD SERVICE REED SERVICE

Description Cleaning and Service Reed Assembling Installation

EXHAUST COVER Cleaning

TOP SEAL Removal -- V4 Engine

Removal -- 3-Cylinder Engine BOTTOM SEAL

Inspec tion CENTERING PINS MAIN BEARING BOLTS AND

CRANKCASE SIDE BOLTS CRANKCASE COVER

CONNECTING RODS AND PISTONS Removal Disassembling Rod Inspection and Service Piston and Ring

Inspection and Service Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling

CRANKSHAFT Removal Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling

CYLINDER BLOCK SERVICE Honing Procedures

POWERHEAD ASSEMBLING PISTON AND ROD ASSEMBLY

INSTALLATION CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATION

NEEDLE MAIN AND ROD BEARINGS

CRANKCASE COVER BOTTOM SEAL INSTALLATION

TYPE ATTACHED TO LOWER END OF CRANKCASE 3-43

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EXHAUST COVER AND BYPASS COVER INSTALLATION 3-44

REED BOX INSTALLATION 3-44 HEAP INSTALLATION 3-45 BREAK-IN PR.OCEDURES 3-46

4 FUEL

INTPODUCTICPN 4- 1 GENERAL CARBIJR ETIPN

INFORMATION 4- 1 FUEL SYSTEM 4- 3

TROUBLESHOOTING 4- 3 Fuel Pump Tests 4- 5 Fuel Line Test 4-6 Rough Engine Idle 4-7 Excessive Fuel Consumption 4-7 Engine Surge 4-8

JOHNSCaW/EVINW UTPE CAFBURETQPS 4-8

TYPE IA CARPURETOR HBOWNCPRAFT, CaOUBLE BRL. WITH HIGFJ- APJD LOW- SPEED NEEDLE VALVES 50 HP -- 1958 AP'D IF39 1 60 HP -- 1964 A N C 1965 ) 4-9 75 HP -- 1960 1

TYPE IB CARBURETQR SAME AS TYPE IA EXCEPT WITH FIGF-SPEED FIXED ORIFICE 60 WP -- 1366 ANP 1367 1 65 HP -- 196% 1 75 HP -- -1961 TVRU 1965 1 4-9 80 IIP -- 1966 ANP 1967 1 85 MI? -- 196% 1

DESCRIPT1C)N REMOVAL

CARBURETOR PISASSEMBLIP.'G 4-1 1 CLEANING AND IblSPECTIPJG 4-14 ASSEMBLING 4-17

TYPE I1 CARBURETOR 30 HP -- 1964 AND 1965 ) 4-22 100 I-?P -- 1966 TMRU 1968 1

DESCRIPTION Choke System

REEK OVAL DISASSEMBLING

CEOKE SYSTEF"SEFV1CE 4-3$ Pea t /E lec t r i c Choke

I? ernoval 4-35 Installation 4-37

All Electr ic Choke F emovall & Pisassembling It-?.? Assembling

Water Choke Pescr ip t im P ernoval Installation

ASSEhWPWG IVYFALLATION Fl E L PUVP SERVICE

Trsubleshaot ing Removal an8 Repair Cleaninp and Inspecting Assernbline, and Installation

FUEL TAWK SERVICE

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5 IGNITION

INTRODUCTION 5- 1 Ignition Systems 5- 2

SPARK PLUG EVALUATION 5- 3 Removal 5- 3 EXAMINATI@N 5-3

OTHER IGNITION PARTS 5- 5 Description 5-5

TYPE I IGNITION DISTRIRlJTOF VAGNETO 50 HP -- 1958 AND 1959 60 HP -- 1964 TVRIJ 1?66 ) 75 HP -- 196Q TI4RtI 1965 ) 80 HP -- 1966 1

Description TRCPUALESHOOTI1\?G SERVICING

General Information Removal Servicing Cleaning: and Inspecting Installation

BELT REPLACEMENT Engine M istimed

TYPE I1 IGNITIQN DISTRIBUTOR BATTEP Y 75 HI? -- 1961 THRU 1965 ) 80 HP -- 1966 AND 1967 90 HP -- 1964 AND 1965 1 108 HP -- 1966

Description TROUBLESHOOTING SERVICING

Removal -

Cleaning and Inspecting Installation

BELT REPLACEMENT Engine Mistimed Installation

TYPE I11 IGNITION CAPACITOR lXSCHARGE (CLd) WITM SENSOR 100 MP -- 1967, 1968,

AND 1972 ) 115 HP -- 1969 AND 1970 125 HP -- 1971 AND 1972 )

TROUBLESHOQTING 100 HP -- 1967 AND 1968

TROUBLESHOOTING 115 HP -- 1969 AND 1370

TROLJBLESHQOTHNG 108 HP -- 1972 125 HP -- 1971 AN@ 1972

COVPONENT REPLACEMENT Rotor Replacement

100 hp -- 1967 Sensor Replacement

100 hp -- 1967 Powerpack Replacement

100 hp -- 1967 COMPONENT REPLACEArENT

IGNITION PARTS UNPEF FLY WHEEL: STATOR, CISTRIBUTOR CAP, EIST WIBUTOR ROTCW, SENSOR ROTOR, APE? SEE1% 100 MP -- 8968 ANC 1972 115 HP -- 8969 A N P 1970 125 HP -- 1971 A N E 1972 W emoval Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling

CAPACITOR DISCWAR GE (CG) WITM BREAKER P(3IbT5 55 HP 3-CYL. -- 1968

AND 1969 60 HP 3-CYL. -- 1 978

AND 1971 65 MP V4 -- 19653 $5 E P V4 -- 1968 TEIRU 1972 100 MP V 4 -- 197 1

Cescription Safe ty General Troubleshootiwe

All CD Wodels Troubles hooting

55 hp -- 1968 and 1969 65 hp -- 1968 85 hp -- 1968

Troubles hooting 85 h~ -- 1969 thru 6972 100 hp -- 1971

Troubles hooting 40 hp -- 1970 and 197 1

CL) IGNITION SYSTEV PARTS REPLACEWENT AND AEJUSTMENT 55 HP 3-CYL -- 1968 eC 1969 60 HP 3-CYL -- 1570 & 1571 65 HP V4 -- 1968 85 flP V 4 -- 1968 THRU 1972 100 HP V4 -- 1971 Removal Cleaning and Inspecting

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5 IGNITION (CONT)

SYWCFRCNIZING C"ISTRIBUT0R ANC CARBURETOR hvP,Gh'FTQ IGNITION MGPELS 50 tiP 1958 ANL" 1959 5-92

SYNCH-'RCNIZING CISTRIBUTOR AND CARBURETOR BATTERY IGNITION NAGNETQ IGNITION 60 HP -- 1964 THRU 1966 75 PI? -- 1960 THRU 6963 $0 HI' -- 1906 ANI3 1967 90 IF? -- 3964 A N E 1965 100 E? -- 1966 ANC 1967

6 ELECTRICAL

INTROIPUCTICPJ 6-1 BATTEPIES 6-1

Jumper Cables 6-5 Pual Bat tery Installatic\n 6-5

GAUGES A N D F O R P S 6-7 FUEL SYSTEbb

Fuel Gauge 6-8 Fuel Gauge Poskup 6-8 Fuel Gauge Troubleshooting 6-9

TACFOPJETER 6-10 KOWNS 6-10 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

GENERAL IPIF(?Ri?4ATI@N 6-1 1 GENER ATCF CPARGIFG CIRCIJIT

Troubleshooting 6-12 Generator Service 6-10 Cleaning and Inspecting 6-18 Assemhli ng 6-20

ALTER NATPR CpAP GIPG CIRCUIT Pperat ion 6-22 Troubleshooting 6-24

ALTERblATOFs W I W PATTER Y IGb'.'ITI[ON WC9PEkS 190 1 THR tJ 1967 6-25

ALTER PIPTOP VJITF" CP IGWITION 100 FP -- 1907 AND ALL cp IGPIITIC\P.I 1968 TPFelir 1972 6-27

Troubleshootinp 6-27

CYPKE CIRCUIT SERVICE 6-31 STAP TEP FVTCP CIPCIJIT SEPVICE

Circuit Pescription 6-31 S ta r te r P'otor Description 6-32 T r ~ u b l e s h s s t i n g 6-34 T e s t i m 6-34

STAP T E ~ PCTCP, r m v E GEAR Sta r te r Removal

All \'hts 1958 Thru 1958 6-37 S ta r te r Crive Removal 6-37 Cleanine and Inspecting 6-38 Installation 6-38

STARTEFF, PRIVE GEAR SEW VICE 55 HE' 3-CYLIIWPEP

1968 A F T 1965 1 60 WP 3-CXLIP.!@ER

1970 AND lQ71 1 85 HP W4 -- lQ49 T F R U 1972 ) 6-39 115 HP V 4 -- 1969 ANT31 1870 ) 125 VP Yk -- 1971 AND 1972 ) R ernoval 6-39 Pisassemblinp 6-40 Cleaning and Inspecting 6-41 Assembling 6-41

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PELCO-W EF4Y SERVICE R ernoval 6 4 1 Disassembling 6-k2 Armature Testing 6-43 Cleaning and Inspecting 6-44 Assembling 6-45

AUTOLITE SERVICE Removal 6-47 Disassembling 6-48 Armature Testing 6-48 Cleaning and Inspecting 6-50

PR ESTOLITE SER VICE Removal f rom Starboard

Installation with Separate Drive Gear 6-52

Removal from Por t Side Installation with Drive Gear on

Armature Shaf t 6-52 Disassembling 6-53 Armature Testing 6-53 Cleaning and Inspecting 6-55 Assembling 6- 56

STARTER MOTOR TESTIP'G 6-57 STARTER MOTOR INSTALLATION 6-57

7 ACCESSORIES

DESCRIPTION 7- 1 SHIFT BOXES 7- 1 OLD-STYLE DOUBLE LEVER

Troubleshooting 7- 3 h)isassembling 7-4 Cleaning and Inspecting 7-5 Assembling 7- 5

NEW-STYLE SWIFT LEI'EF. Troubleshooting 7- 6 Removal 7- 8 Disassembling 7- 8 Cleaning and Inspecting 7-0 Assembling 7- 10

ELECTRIC GEAR BOXES AbJD SINGLE LEVER CONTROL JOHNSON I JNITS 7- 12 Troubleshooting 7-12 Disassembling 7- 15 Cleaning and Inspecting 7-16 Assembling 7- 17

PUSHBUTTON SHIFT BOX EVINRUDE UNITS Ob'LY 7- 1" Troubleshooting 7-20 Disassembling 7-22 Cleaning and Inspecting 7-24 Assembling 7-74

Troubleshooting 7-26 Disassembling 7-29 clean in^ and inspect in^ 7-31 Assembling 7-32

CABLE ENP FITTIPIG IPJSTALEPTION AT

EWGIF'E EFT" 7-34

8 LOWER UNIT

DESCRIPTICN 8-11 CPAPTER COVERAGE 8-1 ILLUSTRATIONS 8-2

PROPELLER SERVICE 8-2 Propeller with Shear Pin

Removal 8-2 Installation 8-3

Exhaust Propeller 8-3 Removal 8-4 Installation 8-4

WATER PUMP REMOVAL 8-1 8 Lower Unit Pisassemblinp 8-1 E Cleaning and Inspectinn $-I& Lower Unit Assembling: 8-16

WATER PUMP INSTALLATIQN 8- 19 Lower Unit %nstallation 8-20

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8 LOWER UNIT (CONTI

TYPE HI L@lVJEP hThTIT SEPVICE VAPJUAL SFWT SIPfGEE ENCLOSEI" RQLJSIIPJG 48 PP -- 1964 TERU BQR7 1 65 I-'P -- 1068 75 PF -- 1968 TFRU 1965 ) 8-22 80 PP -- 1066 A N P 1967 'B 85 EP -- l"68 )

WATER PUMP REMOVAL 8-24 Lower 1Jnit Pisassembliw p-sk clean in^ and Inspecting 8-3" kewer (Init Assemhline 8-31

WATER PUMP INSTALLATION P-36 Lower [!nit I n s t a l l a t i o ~ P- ?P

Pescription Type I11 and Type IV Units 8-40

Troubles hooting Type I11 and Type IV Units 8-48

Removal Type III Units 8-43

WATER PUMP REMOVAL 8-Sg Pisassembling 8-44 Cleaninp an8 Inspectinp $-50 Assembling 8-52

WATER PUMP INSTALLATION 8-60 Lower l ln i t lInstallaticm 8-6 1

TYPE 1IV LCYUER UP1.'IT EkECTROKATIlr BOO F B -- 1906 TPR P_I 11968 8-62 Troubleshoo t i~e 8-63

WATER PUMP REMOVAL 8-64 Lower Unit Pisassembling 8-h@ CBeanin~ and Inspecting 8-Go Lower i f n i t A s s e ~ b l i n p , 8-7 1

WATER PUMP INSTALLATICN 8-80 Lower Unit Installation 8-8 1

Description Troubleshooting Lower Unit Removal

WATER PUMP REMOVAL 8-86 Lower Unit Pisassembling 8-87 "Frozen 'Tropel ler Shaf t 8-83 Cleaning and Inspecting 8-93 Lower Unit Assembling 8-95

WATER PUMP INSTALLATION 8- 105 Lower Unit Ynstallation 8-108

'FFFOZEf."T!?OPEkkER Description 8-1 18 P emaval 8-1 10

9 HAND STARTER

10 MAINTENANCE

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APPENDIX

A-4 A-8

A- 10 A-IC A-P B

75 hp V 4 with P a p n e t s , Generator, and Standard Shift -- 1 O 6 1

75 hp th ru 90 hp V 4 with Electric Shift 1961 thru 1965

80 hrz V4 with Generator -- 1966

88 hp V 4 -- 1367 80 hp V4

with Elect r ic Shift -- 1?67 85 hp V 4 -- 15568 85 hp V 4

with Elect r ic Shift -- 1?68 $5 hp V 4 with PJternator

%?69 and 1970 85 hp Y 4 with Alternator -- 1972 $5 hp and 100 hp Vk

with Alternator -- 1.971 100 hp V4 with CD Ignition

I967 and 1968 100 hp V4 and 125 h p V 4

with Alternator -- 1972 1 15 hp V4 -- 1969 and 1970 125 hp Y 4 -- 1971

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SAFETY

1-1 INTRODUCTION

Your boat probably represents a sizeable investment fo r you. In order t o protect th is investment and to receive t h e maximum amount of enjoyment f rom your boat i t must b e cared for properly while being used and when i t is ou t of the water. Always s to re your boat with t h e bow higher than t h e s t e rn and be sure t o remove the transom drain plug and t h e inner hull drain plugs. If you use any type of cover t o protect your boat, plastic, canvas, whatever, be sure t o allow f o r some movement of a i r through t h e hull. Proper ventilation will assure evaporation of any condensation t h a t may form due t o changes in t empera tu re and humidity.

1-2 CLEANING, WAXING, AND POLISHING

An outboard boat should be washed with c lear water a f t e r each use t o remove surface dirt and any sa l t deposits f rom use in sa l t water. Regular rinsing will extend t h e t i m e between waxing and polishing. I t will also give you "pride of ownership", by having a sharp looking piece of equipment. Elbow grease, a mild detergent , and a brush

Whenever the boat is stored, for long or short periods, the bow should be slightly higher than the stern and the drain plug in the transom removed to ensure proper drainage of rain water.

will be required t o remove stubborn dirt , oil, and other unsightly deposits.

Stay away f rom harsh abrasives or s t rong chemical cleaners. A white buffing compound can be used t o res tore t h e original gloss t o a scratched, dull, or faded area. The finish of your boat should b e thoroughly cleaned, buffed, and polished at leas t once each season. Take c a r e when buffing o r polishing with a marine cleaner not t o overheat t h e surface you a r e working, because you will burn it.

A small outboard engine mounted on an aluminum boat should be removed f rom t h e boat and stored separately. Under all circumstances, any outboard engine must AL- WAYS be stored with the powerhead higher than t h e lower unit and exhaust system. This position will prevent water trapped in t h e lower unit f rom draining back through t h e exhaust ports into t h e powerhead.

Lower unit badly corroded because the zinc was not replaced. Once the zinc is destroyed, more costly parts will be damaged. Attention to the zinc condition is extremely important during boat operation in salt water.

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I--2 SAFETY

A new zinc prior to installation. This inexpensive item will save corrosion on more valuable parts.

Most outboard engines have a f l a t a r e a on the back side of the powerhead. When t h e engine is placed with t h e f l a t a r e a on t h e powerhead and t h e lower unit resting on t h e floor, t h e engine will be in t h e proper al t i tude with the powerhead higher than the lower unit.

1-3 CONTROLLING CORROSION

Since man f i rs t s t a r t ed out on t h e wa te r , corrosion on his c r a f t has been his enemy. The first form was merely rot in t h e wood and then i t was rust, followed by other forms of destructive corrosion in t h e more modern materials. One defense against corrosion is t o use similar metals throughout t h e boat. Even though this is diff icult t o do in designing a new boat, particularily t h e undersides, similar metals should be used whenever and wherever possible.

A second defense against corrosion is t o insulate dissimilar metals. This can be done by using an exterior coating of Sea Skin or by insulating them with plastic or rubber gaskets.

Using Zinc The proper amount of z inc a t t ached t o a

boat is ext remely important. The use of t o o much zinc can cause wood burning by placing t h e metals close together and they become "hot". On the other hand, using too

Diameter and pitch are the two basic dimensions of a propeller. The diameter is measured across the circumference of a circle scribed by the propeller blades, as shown.

small a zinc plate will cause more rapid deterioration of t h e m e t a l you. a r e trying t o protect . If in doubt, consider t h e f a c t tha t is is f a r be t t e r t o replace t h e zincs than t o replace planking or o ther expensive metal par ts from having an excess of zinc.

When installing z inc plates, t h e r e a r e two routes available. One is t o install many dif ferent zincs on all metal par ts and thus run t h e risk of wood burning. Another route, is t o use one large zinc on t h e transom of the boat and then connect this z inc t o every underwater meta l pa r t through internal bonding. Of the two choices, t h e one zinc on t h e transom is t h e be t t e r way t o go-

Small outboard engines have a z inc pla te a t tached t o t h e cavitat ion plate. Therefore, t h e zinc remains with the engine at all times.

1-4 PROPELLERS

A s you know, the propeller is actually what moves the boat through t h e water. This is how i t is done. The propeller oper- a t e s in water in much t h e manner as a wood screw does in wood. The propeller "bites" into t h e water a s i t rotates. Water passes between the blades and out to the rear in t h e shape of a cone. The propeller "biting" through t h e water in much the s a m e manner as a wood auger is what propels t h e boat.

Propeller and associated parts in order, washer, snear-pin, and nut, ready for installation.

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PROPELLERS 1-3

Arrangement of propeller and associated parts, in order, for a small horsepower engine.

Diamete r and Pi tch Only two dimensions of the propeller a r e

of real in teres t t o t h e boat owner: t h e diameter and t h e pitch. These two dimensions are stamped on t h e propeller hub and always appear in the s a m e order: t h e diam- e t e r f irst and then t h e pitch. For instance, t h e number 15-19 s tamped on the hub, would mean t h e propeller had a diameter of 15 inches with a pitch of 19.

The diameter is t h e measured distance f rom the t ip of one blade t o t h e t i p of the other as shown in t h e accompanying illustration.

The pitch of a propeller is t h e angle at which t h e blades a r e a t t ached t o t h e hub. This figure is expressed in inches of water travel for each revolution of t h e propeller. In our example of a 15-19 propeller, t h e propeller should travel 1 9 inches through t h e water each t ime i t revolves. If the propeller action was per fec t and t h e r e was no slippage, then the pitch multiplied by t h e propeller rpms would be t h e boat speed.

Most outboard manufacturers equip thei r units with a standard propeller with a diam- e t e r and pitch they consider t o be best suited t o t h e engine and t h e boat. Such a propeller allows t h e engine t o run as near t o t h e rated rpm and horsepower (a t full throt- t le) as possible for t h e boat design.

The blade a rea of t h e propeller deter- mines i ts load-carrying capacity. A two- blade propeller is used for high-speed running under very l ight loads.

Shear-pin installed behind the propeller instead of in front of the propeller.

A four-blade propeller is installed in boats intended to opera te at low speeds under very heavy loads such as tugs, barges, or large houseboats. The three-blade propeller is t h e happy medium covering t h e wide range between t h e high performdnce units and t h e load carrying work horses.

Propeller Selection There is no standard propeller t h a t will

do t h e proper job in very many cases. T h e list of sizes and weights of boats is almost endless. This f a c t coupled with t h e many boat-engine combinations makes the propeller selection for a specific purpose a diffi- cu l t job. In f a c t , in many cases t h e propeller is changed a f t e r a few test runs. Proper selection is aided through t h e use of char t s set up for various engines and boats. These char ts should be studied and understood when buying a propeller. However, bear in mind, t h e char t s a r e based on average boats

Diagram to explain the pitch dimension through the water if there was no slippage.

1- 21" -1 of a propeller. The pitch is the theoretical distance a propeller would travel

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1-4 SAFETY

with average loads, therefore , i t may b e necessary t o make a change in s ize or pitch, in order t o obtain t h e desired results for t h e hull design or load condition.

A wide range of pitch is available fo r each of t h e larger horsepower engines. The choice available for t h e smaller engines, up t o about 25 hp, is restr icted t o one or two sizes. Remember, a low pitch takes a smaller bite of t h e water than t h e high pitch propeller. This means t h e low pitch propeller will t ravel less distance through t h e water per revolution. The low pitch will require less horsepower and will allow t h e engine t o run fas ter and more efficiently.

I t s tands t o reason, and it's t rue , t h a t t h e high pitch propeller will require more horsepower, but will give fas te r boat speed if t h e engine is allowed t o turn t o its rated rpm.

If a higher-pitched propeller is installed on a boat, in an e f fo r t t o g e t more speed, ex t ra horsepower will be required. If the e x t r a power is not available, t h e rpms will be reduced t o a less efficient level and t h e actual boat speed will be less than if t h e lower - pitched propeller had been l e f t installed.

All engine manufacturers design thei r units t o opera te with full th ro t t l e at, o r slightly above, t h e rated rpm. If you run your engine at t h e ra ted rpm, you will increase spark plug l ife, receive be t t e r fuel economy, and obtain t h e best performance

CAVITATION BURN

EDGE

Cavitation (air bubbles) formed at the propeller. Manufacturers are constantly fighting this problem, as

f rom your boat and engine. Therefore, t a k e t ime t o make t h e proper propeller selection for the rated rprn of your engine at full th ro t t l e with what you consider t o be an average load. Your boat will then be correctly balanced between engine and propeller throughout t h e en t i re speed range.

A reliable tachometer must be used t o measure engine speed at full th ro t t l e t o ensure t h e engine will achieve full horsepower and operate efficiently and safely. To test for t h e cor rec t propeller, make your run in a body of smooth water with t h e lower unit in forward gear at full throt t le . Observe t h e tachometer at full thrott le. NEVER run the engine at a high rprn when a flush a t t achment is installed. If t h e reading is above t h e manufacturer 's recommended operating range, you must t ry propellers of g rea te r pitch, until you find t h e one t h a t allows t h e engine t o opera te continually within t h e recommended full th ro t t l e range.

If the engine is unable t o deliver top performance and you feel i t is properly tuned, then t h e propeller may not be t o blame. Operating conditions have a marked e f f e c t on performance. For instance, an engine will lose rprn when run in very cold water. I t will also lose rprn when run in sa l t water as compared with f resh water. A hot, low-barometer day will also cause your engine t o lose power.

Example of a damaged propeller. This unit should have been replaced long before this amount of damage . -

explained in the text. was sustained.

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PROPELLERS 1-5

Ventilation Ventilation is the forming of voids in the

water just ahead of the propeller blades. Marine propulsion designers a r e constantly fighting t h e bat t le against t h e formation of these voids due to excessive blade t ip speed and engine wear. The voids may be filled with air or water vapor, or they may actually be a part ial vacuum. Ventilation may b e caused by installing a piece of equipment too close to the lower unit, such a s t h e knot indicator pickup, depth sounder, or bai t tank pickup.

Vibration Your propeller should be checked reg-

ularly t o be sure al l blades a r e in good condition. If any of t h e blades become bent or nicked, this condition will set up vibra- tions in the drive unit and t h e motor. If t h e vibration becomes very serious i t will cause a loss of power, efficiency, and boat performance. If t h e vibration is allowed t o continue over a period of t i m e i t can have a damaging effect on many of t h e operating parts.

Vibration in boats can never be completely eliminated, but i t can be reduced by keeping all parts in good working condition and through proper maintenance and lubrication. Vibration can also be reduced in some cases by increasing t h e number of blades. For this reason, many racers use

two-blade props and luxury cruisers have four- and five-blade props installed.

Shock Absorbers The shock absorber in t h e propeller plays

a very important role in protecting t h e shafting, gears, and engine against t h e shock of a blow, should t h e propeller s t r ike a n underwater object. The shock absorber allows t h e propeller t o s top rotating at t h e instant of impact while the power t ra in continues turning.

How much impact the propeller is able t o withstand before causing t h e clutch hub t o slip is calculated t o be more than t h e fo rce needed t o propel t h e boat, but less than t h e amount t h a t could damage any part of t h e power train. Under normal propulsion loads of moving t h e boat through the water , t h e hub will not slip. However, i t will s l ip if t h e propeller s t r ikes an object with a force tha t would be g rea t enough t o s top any p a r t of t h e power train.

Rubber hub removed from a propeller. This hub was removed because the hub was slipping in the propeller.

Illustration depicting the rake of a propeller, as explained in the text .

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1-6 SAFETY

If the power t ra in was t o absorb an impact g rea t enough t o stop rotation, even for an instant , something would have t o give and be damaged. If a propeller is subjected t o repeated striking of underwater objects, i t would eventually slip on its clutch hub under normal loads. If the propeller would s t a r t t o slip, a new hub and shock absorber would have t o be installed.

Propeller Rake If a propeller blade is examined on a c u t

extending directly through t h e cen te r of t h e hub, and if t h e blade is set vert ical t o the propeller hub, as shown in t h e accompanying illustration, t h e propeller is said t o have a zero degree (0') rake. As t h e blade s lants back, t h e rake increases. Skandardo propellers have a rake angle f rom 0 t o 15 .

A higher rake angle generally improves propeller performance in a cavi ta t ing o r ventilating situation. On lighter, f a s te r boats, higher rake o f ten will increase per- f o r m a n c e by holding t h e bow of the boat higher.

Progressive Pitch Progressive pitch is a blade design inno-

vation t h a t improves performance when forward and rotational speed is high and/or t h e propeller breaks t h e surface of t h e water.

Progressive pitch s t a r t s low at the leading edge and progressively increases t o t h e trailing edge, as shown in the accompanying illustration. The average pitch over t h e ent i re blade is the number assigned t o t h a t propeller. In t h e illustration of t h e progressive pitch, t h e average pitch assigned t o t h e propeller would be 21.

CONSTANT PITCH

Propeller with a "cupped" leading edge. "Cupping" gives the propeller a better "hold" in the water.

cupping If the propeller is cast with a edge curl

inward on t h e trailing edge, t h e blade is said t o have a cup. In most cases, cupped blades improve performance. The cup helps t h e blades to "HOLD" and not break loose, when operating in a cavitat ing or ventilating situation. This act ion permits the engine t o be tr immed ou t fur ther , or t o be mounted high- e r on t h e transom. This is especially t r u e on high-perf ormance boats. Either of t h e s e two adjustments will usually add to higher speed.

PROGRESSIVE PITCH

Comparison of a constant and progressive pitch propeller. Notice how the pitch of the progressive pitch propeller, right, changes to give the blade more thrust and therefore, the boat more speed.

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PROPELLERS 1-7

The cup has the e f f e c t of adding t o the propeller pitch. Cupping usually will reduce full-throttle engine speed about 150 t o 300 rpm below t h e same pitch propeller without a cup t o the blade. A propeller repair shop is able to increase or decrease the cup on the blades. This change, a s explained, will a l ter engine rpm to m e e t specific operating demands. Cups a r e rapidly becoming standard on propellers.

In order tor a cup t o be the most effec- tive, t h e cup should be completely concave (hollowed) and finished with a sharp corner. If t h e cup has any convex rounding, t h e effectiveness of the cup will b e reduced.

Rotation Propellers a r e manufactured as right-

hand rotation (RH), and a s left-hand rotation (LH). The standard propeller for out- boards is RH rotation.

A right-hand propeller can easily be identified by observing i t as shown in t h e accompanying illustration. Observe how the blade slants f rom t h e lower l e f t toward t h e upper right. The left-hand propeller s lants in t h e opposite direction, f rom upper lef t t o lower right, as shown.

When the propeller is observed rota t ing f rom as tern t h e boat, i t will be rotating clockwise when the engine is in forward gear. The left-hand propeller will r o t a t e counterclockwise.

1-5 FUEL SYSTEM

With Built-in Fuel Tank All par ts of the fuel sys tem should be

selected and installed t o provide maximum

COU NTERCLOCW I SE

LEFT HAND

CLOCKW I SE I OR

R l GHT HAND

service and protection against leakage. Re- inf orced flexible sections should be installed in fuel lines where the re is a lot of motion, such as at t h e engine connection. The flaring of copper tubing should be annealed a f t e r i t is formed as a protection against hardening. CAUTION: Compression f i t t ings should NOT be used because they a r e so easily overtightened, which places them under a strain and subjects them t o fatigue. Such conditions will cause the f i t t ing t o leak a f t e r i t is connected a second t ime.

The capacity of the fuel f i l ter must be large enough t o handle t h e demands of t h e engine as specified by t h e engine manufacturer.

A manually-operated valve should be installed if anti-siphon protection is not provided. This valve should be installed in t h e fuel line as close t o t h e gas tank as possible. Such a valve will maintain anti-siphon protect ion between t h e tank and t h e engine.

Fuel tanks should be mounted in dry, well venti lated places. Ideally, t h e fuel tanks should be installed above the cockpit floors, where any leakage will be quickly detected. In order t o obtain maximum circulation of air around fuel tanks, t h e t ank should not come in c o n t a c t with the boat hull except through t h e necessary supports. The supporting surfaces and hold-downs must fas ten t h e t ank firmly and they should be insulated f rom the tank surfaces. This insulation mater ia l should be non-abrasive and non-absorbent material. Fuel tanks installed in t h e forward portion of t h e boat should be especially well secured and pro- tec ted because shock loads in this a rea can be as high as 20 t o 25 g's.

Right- and left-hand propellers showing how the angle of the blades is reversed. Right-hand propellers are by far the most popular.

A three-position valve permits fuel to be drawn from either tank or to be shut off completely. Such an arrangement prevents accidental siphoning of fuel from the tank.

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1-8 SAFETY

Taking On Fuel The fuel tank of your boat should be kept

full t o prevent water f rom entering t h e sys tem thraugh condensation caused by temperature changes. Water droplets forming is one of the greates t enemies of t h e fuel system. By keeping t h e t ank full, t h e a i r space in the tank is kept t o an absolute minimum and t h e r e is no room fo r mois ture t o form. I t is a good pract ice not t o s t o r e fuel in t h e tank over an extended period, s a y for six months. Today, fuels contain ingre- dients t h a t change in to gums when s tored fo r any length of time. These gums and varnish products will cause carburetor problems and poor spark plug performance. An addit ive (Sta-Bil) is available and can b e used t o prevent gums and varnish f rom forming.

Static Electricity In very simple terms, s t a t i c e lec t r ic i ty is

called fr ict ional electr ici ty. I t is genera ted by two dissimilar mater ia ls moving over each other. One form is gasoline flowing through a pipe or into t h e air. Another form is when you brush your hair or walk across a synthet ic ca rpe t and then touch a meta l object. All of these actions cause an elec- t r ica l charge. In most cases, s t a t i c electr i- c i ty is genera ted during very dry weather conditions, but when you a r e filling the fuel tank on your boat i t can happen at any t ime.

Fuel Tank Grounding One a rea of protection against t h e build-

up of s t a t i c e lec t r ic i ty is t o have t h e fuel

Old style pressure-type tank showing the fuel line to the engine and quick-disconnect fitting.

t ank properly grounded (also known as bonding). A di rect me ta l- to- meta l con tac t f rom t h e fuel hose nozzle t o the water in which t h e boat is floating. If t h e fill pipe is m a d e of metal , and t h e fuel nozzle makes a good con tac t with t h e deck plate, then a good ground is made.

As an economy measure, some boats use rubber or plast ic filler pipes because of compound bends in the pipe. Such a fill l ine does not give any kind of ground and if your boat has this type of installation and you do

An OMC fuel tank equipped with a quick-disconnect Adding fuel to a six-gallon OMC fuel tank. Some fitting. This type of arrangement is handy when the fuel must be in the tank before oil is added to prevent tank must be removed from the boat to obtain fuel. the oil from accumulating on the tank bottom.

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LOADING 1-9

not want t o replace t h e filler pipe with a metal one, then i t is possible t o connect t h e ,deck fi t t ing t o t h e tank with a copper wire. The wire should b e 8 gauge or larger.

The fuel line f r o m t h e t ank t o t h e engine should provide a continuous metal- to-metal con tac t for proper grounding. If any par t of this line is plastic or other non-metallic mater ia l , then a copper wire must be connected to bridge the non-metal material. The power train provides a ground through t h e engine and drive shaf t , t o t h e propeller in the water.

Fiberglass fuel tanks pose problems of thei r own. One method of grounding is t o run a copper wire around t h e tank f rom the fill pipe t o t h e fuel line. However, such a wire does not ground the fuel in the tank. Manufacturers should imbed a wire in t h e fiberglass and i t should be connected t o t h e in take and t h e out le t fittings. This wire would avoid corrosion which could occur if a wire passed through t h e fuel. CAUTION: I t is not advisable to use a fiberglass fue l tank if a grounding wi re w a s n o t installed..

Anything you can feel as a "shock" is enough t o set off an explosion. Did you know t h a t under cer ta in atmospheric conditions you can cause a s t a t i c explosion yourself, particularly if you a r e wearing synthetic clothing. It is almost a ce r ta in ty you could cause a s t a t i c spark if you a r e NOT wearing insulated rubber-soled shoes.

As soon as the deck f i t t ing is opened, fumes a r e released t o t h e air. Therefore, t o be safe you should ground yourself before

A fuel tank properly grounded to prevent static electricity. Static electricity could be extremely dangerous when talcing on fuel.

opening t h e fill pipe deck fitting. One way t o ground yourself is t o dip your hand in t h e water overside t o discharge t h e e lect r ic i ty in your body before opening the filler cap. Another method is t o touch t h e engine block or any metal f i t t ing on t h e dock which goes down into t h e water.

1-6 LOADING

In order t o receive maximum enjoyment, with sa fe ty and performance, from your boat, t ake ca re not to exceed the load capaci ty given by t h e manufacturer. A plate a t t ached to the hull indicates the U.S. Coast Guard capaci ty information in pounds for persons and gear. If the plate s t a t e s the maximum person capacity to be 750 pounds and you assume each person to weigh an average of 150 lbs., then t h e boat could ca r ry f ive persons safely. If you add anoth- e r 250 lbs. for motor and gear, and t h e maximum weight capacity for persons and gear is 1,000 lbs. or more, then the f ive persons and gear would be within the limit.

Try to load t h e boat evenly por t and starboard. If you place more weight on one side than on t h e other, the boat will list t o the heavy side and make s teer ing difficult. You will also g e t b e t t e r performance by placing heavy supplies a f t of the center to keep t h e bow light for more eff ic ient plan- ing.

0 U S . COAST GUARD

MAXIMUM CAPACITIES

PERSONS OR LBS LBS PERSONS,MOTOR,GEAR H.P. MOTOR

U.S. Coast Guard plate affixed to all new boats. When the blanks are filled in, the plate will indicate the Coast Guard's recommendations for persons, gear, and horsepower to ensure safe operation of the boat. These recommendations should not be exceeded, as explained in the text.

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1-10 SAFETY

Clarification Much confusion a r i s e s f rom t h e t e rms ,

ce r t i f i ca t ion , requi rements , approval , regulat ions, etc. Perhaps the following may clar ify a couple of t hese points.

1- The Coas t Guard does not approve boa t s in t h e s a m e manner as t h e y "Approve" l i f e jackets . The C o a s t Guard appl ies a fo rmula t o inform t h e public of wha t is s a f e for a par t icu lar c r a f t .

2- If a boa t has to m e e t a par t icu lar regulat ion, i t mus t have a C o a s t Guard ce r t i f i ca t ion plate . The public h a s been led t o bel ieve th is indica tes approval of t h e C o a s t Guard. Not so.

3- The cer t i f ica t ion p l a t e m e a n s a will- ingness of t he manufac tu re r t o m e e t t h e C o a s t Guard regulat ions f o r t h a t par t icu lar c r a f t . The manufac tu re r m a y r eca l l a boa t if i t fails t o m e e t t h e C o a s t Guard requirements .

4- The Coas t Guard ce r t i f i ca t ion p la te , see accompanying i l lustrat ion, m a y o r m a y no t be metal . The p la te is a regula t ion fo r t h e manufac turer . I t is only a warning p l a t e and the public does not have t o a d h e r e t o t h e res t r ic t ions set f o r t h on it. Again, t h e p la te sets f o r t h informat ion as t o t h e C o a s t Guard's opinion for s a f e t y on t h a t par t icu lar boat .

Type I PFD Coast Guard Approved life jacket. This type flotation device provides the greatest amount of buoyancy. NEVER use them for cushions or other purposes.

5- Coas t Guard Approved equ ipmen t is equipment which has been approved by t h e C o m m a n d a n t of t he U.S. C o a s t Guard and has been de t e rmined t o be in compl iance wi th C o a s t Guard spec i f ica t ions and regula- t ions re la t ing t o t h e mater ia l s , cons t ruc t ion , and pe r fo rmance o f such equipment.

1-7 HORSEPOWER

T h e maximum horsepower engine for e a c h individual boa t should no t be inc reased by any g r e a t amoun t wi thout checking re- qu i r emen t s f r o m t h e C o a s t Guard in your a rea . T h e C o a s t Guard de t e rmines horsepower r equ i r emen t s based on t h e length, beam, and dep th of t he hull. TAKE CARE NOT t o e x c e e d t h e maximum horsepower l i s ted on the p la te or t h e war ran ty and possibly t h e insurance on t h e b o a t m a y be- c o m e void.

1-8 FLOTATION

If the boat is less than 20 ft. overall, U.S. Coast Guard and the National Marine Manufac- turers Association (formerly BIA) requires the craft to have adequate buoyant material built into the hull (usually foam) to keep it from sinking if the craft should become swamped.

"Kept from sinking" is defined as the ability of the floatation material to keep the boat from sinking when filled with water and with passengers in the water clinging to the hull. A serious

A Type N PFD cushion device intended to be thrown to a person in the water. If air can be squeezed out of the cushion it is no longer fi t for service as a PFD.

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FLOTATION I- I I

restr ict ion is: t h e total we igh t o f t h e moto r , passengers, a n d equ ipmen t on board MUST not exceed t h e m a x i m u m load capacity listed o n t h e plate.

Life P r e s e r v e r s - Personal F lo t a t ion Dev ices (PFDs)

The C o a s t Guard requires at l ea s t one C o a s t Guard approved life-saving device b e ca r r i ed on board a l l mo to rboa t s for e a c h person on board. Devices approved a r e ident i f ied by a t a g indicat ing C o a s t Guard approval. Such devices m a y b e l i fe preserv- e r s , buoyant vests , r ing buoys, o r buoyant cushions. Cushions used fo r s ea t ing a r e serv iceable if a i r canno t b e squeezed o u t of it. O n c e a i r is re leased when t h e cushion i s squeezed, i t is no longer f i t as a f lo ta t ion device. New foam cushions dipped in a rubber ized ma te r i a l a r e a lmos t indes t ruc t- ible.

Life preservers have been classified by t h e U.S. Coast G u a r d into five distinct categories. All PFD's presently acceptable on recreational boa t s fall i n t o one of t hese f ive designa- tions. All PFDs MUST b e U.S. Coas t Guard approved, in good and serv iceable condition, and of an appropr ia te s i ze for t he persons who in tend t o wear them. Wearable P F D s MUST be readily access ib le and throwable devices MUST be immedia te ly avai lable f o r use.

T y p e I P F D has the g r e a t e s t required buoyancy and is designed t o turn - m o s t UNCONSCIOUS persons in t he w a t e r f rom a f a c e down position to a ver t ica l o r s l ight ly backward position. - The adu l t s i ze device provides a minimum buoyancy of 22 pounds and t h e child s i z e provides a minimum buoyancy of 11 pounds. The Type I P F D provides t h e g r e a t e s t pro tec t ion to i t s wea re r and is m o s t e f f e c t i v e fo r al l w a t e r s and conditions.

T y p e I[ P F D is designed to turn i t s wear- e r in a ver t ica l o r slightly backward position in t he water . The turning ac t ion is n o t as pronounced as with a Type I. The device will not turn as many d i f f e ren t t y p e persons under t h e s a m e conditions a s t h e Type I. An a d u l t s i ze device provides a minimum buoyancy o f 15% pounds, t h e medium child s i ze provides a minimum of 11 pounds, and t h e infant and sma l l child s izes provide a minimum buoyancy of 7 pounds.

Type III P F D is designed t o p e r m i t t h e w e a r e r t o plac? himself (herself) in a ve r t i ca l or s l ight ly backward position. T h e T y p e 111 device has the s a m e buoyancy as t h e Type I1 P F D bu t i t has l i t t l e or no turn ing ability. Many of the Type 111 P F D a r e designed t o be part icularly useful when w a t e r skiing, sailing, hunting, fishing, o r engaging in o the r w a t e r sports . Severa l of t h i s t y p e will a lso provide increased hypothermia pro tec t ion .

T y p e IV P F D is designed to b e thrown t o a person in t h e wa te r and grasped and held by the user until rescued. I t is NOT design- e d to b e worn. The mos t common Type IV P F D is a r ing buoy or a buoyant cushion.

T y p e V P F D is any P F D approved f o r r e s t r i c t ed use.

C o a s t Guard regula t ions state, in genera l t e rms , t h a t on a l l boa t s less t han -16 f t . overal l , one T y p e I, 11, 111, o r IV device shal l be ca r r i ed on board for e a c h person in t h e boat . On boats over 26 f t., one T y p e I, 11, o r 111 device sha l l be car r ied on board for e a c h person in the boa t plus one Type IV device.

I t is an a c c e p t e d f a c t t h a t mos t boat ing people own l i f e preservers , b u t too f e w ac tua l ly wear them. The re is l i t t l e or n o e x c u s e fo r not wear ing one because the modern comfor t ab le designs avai lab le t oday d o not s u b t r a c t f r o m an individual's boat ing pleasure. Make a l i fe j acke t ava i lab le t i

Type N PFD ring buoy designed to be thrown. On ocean cruisers, this type device usually has a weighted pole with flag, attached to the buoy.

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1- 12 SAFETY

your crew and advise each member t o wear it. If you a re a crew member ask your skipper to issue you one, especially when boating in rough weather, cold water , or when running a t high speed. Naturally, a life jacket should be a must for non-swim- mers any t ime they a r e ou t on the water in a boat.

1-9 EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT

Visual Distress Signals The Regulation

Since January 1, 198 1, Coast Guard Reg- ulations require all recreation boats when used on coastal waters, which includes the Grea t Lakes, the terri torial seas and those waters directly connected to the Grea t Lakes and t h e terri torial seas, up t o a point where the waters a re less than two miles wide, and boats owned in t h e United S t a t e s when operating on the high seas to be equipped with visual distress signals.

Internationally accepted distress signals.

The only exceptions a r e during daytime (sunrise t o sunset) for:

Recreational boats less than 16 f t . (5 meters) in length.

Boats participating in organized events such a s races, r ega t t as or marine parades.

Open sailboats no t equipped with propulsion machinery and less than 26 ft . (8 meters) in length.

Manually propelled boats. The above listed boats need t o carry

night signals when used on these waters at night.

Pyrotechnic visual distress signaling devices MUST be Coast Guard Approved, in serviceable condition and stowed t o be readily accessible. If they a r e marked with a da te showing the serviceable life, this d a t e must not have passed. Launchers, produced before Jan. 1, 1981, intended for use with approved signals a r e not required to be Coast Guard Approved.

USCG Approved pyrotechnic visual distress signals and associated devices include:

Pyrotechnic red flares, hand held or ae r- ial.

Pyrotechnic orange smoke, hand held or floating.

Launchers for aerial red meteors or parachute flares.

Moisture-protected flares should be carried on board for use as a distress signal.

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COMPASS 1-13

None-pyrotechnic visual distress signaling devices must carry t h e manufacturer 's cert if ication tha t they m e e t Coas t Guard requirements. They must be in serviceable condition and stowed so a s to be readily accessible.

This group includes: Orange distress f lag at leas t 3 x 3 f e e t

with a black square and ball on an orange background.

Elect r ic distress light -- not a flashlight but an approved e lect r ic distress light which MUST automatically f lash the international SOS distress signal (. . . - - - . . .) four to six t imes each minute.

Types and Quantities The following variety and combination of

devices may be carried in order t o m e e t t h e requirements.

1- Three hand-held red f lares (day and night).

2- One e lect r ic distress light (night only).

3- One hand-held red f l a re and two parachute f lares (day and night).

4- One hand-held orange smoke signal, two floating orange smoke signals (day) and one e lec t r i c distress light (day and night).

If young children a r e frequently aboard your boat, careful selection and proper sto- wage of visual distress signals becomes especially important. If you e l e c t t o carry pyrotechnic devices, you should se lec t those in tough packaging and not easy to ignite should t h e devices fall in to t h e hands of children.

Coas t Guard Approved pyrotechnic devices carry an expiration date. 'This d a t e can NOT exceed 42 months from the d a t e of

manufacture and at such t ime t h e device can no longer be counted toward t h e minimum requiremen ts.

SPECIAL WORDS In some states the launchers for meteors

and parachute f lares may be considered a f irearm. Therefore, check with your s t a t e authorit ies before acquiring such a launcher.

First Aid Kits The first-aid ki t is similar to an insur-

ance policy or life jacket. You hope you don't have to use it but if needed, you want i t there. I t is only natural t o overlook this essential i tem because, let's f a c e i t , who likes t o think of unpleasantness when plan- ning to have only a good time. However, t h e prudent skipper is prepared ahead of t ime, and is thus able to handle the emergency without a lot of fuss.

Good commercial first-aid kits a r e available such a s t h e Johnson and Johnson "Ma- rine First-Aid Kit". With a very modest expenditure, a well-stocked and adequate ki t can be prepared a t home.

Any kit should include instruments, supplies, and a s e t of instructions for their use. Instruments should be protected in a water- t ight case and should include: scissors, tweezers, tourniquet, thermometer , sa fe ty

An adequately stocked first-aid kit should be on board for the safety of crew and guests.

A sounding device should mounted close to the helmsman for use in sounding an emergency alarm.

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1- 14 SAFETY

pins, eye-washing cup, and a hot w a t e r bot- tle. The supplies in t h e k i t should include: assor ted bandages in addit ion t o t h e various s izes of "band-aids", adhesive t ape , absorb- e n t co t ton , appl ica tors , pe t ro leum jelly, an- t i sept ic (liquid and o in tment) , local oint- men t , aspir in, e y e o in tmen t , an t ih is tamine , ammonia inhalent , sea- sickness pills, an t- ac id pills, and a laxative. You may wan t t o consult your family physician abou t including ant ibiot ics . B e sure your k i t conta ins a first- aid manual because even though you have taken the R e d Cross course, you m a y b e t h e pa t i en t and have t o rely on a n unt ra ined c r e w for care.

Fire Extinguishers All f i re ext inguishers mus t bear Under-

wr i t e r s Labora tory (UL) "Marine Type" approved labels. With the UL ce r t i f i ca t ion , t h e ext inguisher does no t have to have a C o a s t Guard approval number. T h e C o a s t Guard classif ies f i r e ex t inguishers according t o the i r s i ze and type.

Type B-I or B-I1 Designed for extinguishing flammable liquids. This type extinguisher is required on all motorboats.

The C o a s t Guard considers a boa t having one or m o r e of t h e following condit ions as a "boat of closed construct ion" sub jec t t o f i r e ext inguisher regulations.

A suitable fire extinguisher should be mounted close to the helmsman for emergency use.

1- Inboard engine or engines. 2- Closed compar tmen ts under t h w a r t s

and seats wherein por table fuel tanks m a y b e stored.

3- Double bo t toms n o t sea led t o t h e hull o r which a r e not comple te ly f i l led wi th f lo t a t ion materials .

4- Closed living spaces. 5- Closed s towage c o m p a r t m e n t s in

which combustible or f l ammable m a t e r i a l i s s tored.

6- Permanen t ly instal led fue l tanks.

Detailed classification ofthe fire extinguisher is by agent and size:

B-I contains 1-114 gallons foam, or 4 pounds carbon dioxide, or 2 pounds dry chemical agent, or 2-112 pounds Halon.

B-I1 contains 2-112 gallons foam, or 15 pounds carbon dioxide, or 10 pounds dry chemical agent, or 10 pounds Halon.

The class of mo to rboa t d i c t a t e s how many f i r e ex t inguishers a r e requi red on board. One B-I1 uni t can b e subs t i tu ted for two B-I ext inguishers . When t h e engine c o m p a r t m e n t of a moto rboa t is equipped with a f ixed (built-in) ext inguishing sys tem, o n e less por table B-I uni t is required.

Dry chemica l f i r e ex t inguishers wi thout

At least one gallon of emergency fuel should be kept on board in an approved container.

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MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT I - I S

gauges or indicat ing devices mus t be weigh- e d and tagged eve ry 6 months. If t h e gross weight of a carbon dioxide (CO ) f i r e ext inguisher is reduced by m o r e thar? 10% of t h e n e t weight , t h e ext inguisher is no t accep t- a b l e and mus t be recharged.

READ labels on f i r e extinguishers. If t h e ext inguisher is U.L. l is ted, i t i s approved for mar ine use.

DOUBLE t he number of f i r e extinguish- e r s recommended by t h e C o a s t Guard, be- c a u s e the i r requi rements a r e a bare MINI- MUM fo r s a f e operat ion. Your boat , family, and crew, mus t cer ta in ly be wor th much more than "bare minimum".

1-10 COMPASS

Selection The s a f e t y of t he boa t and her c r e w may

depend on her compass. In many a r e a s wea the r conditions can change so rapidly t h a t within minutes a skipper m a y find himself "socked-in" by a fog bank, a ra in squall, or just poor visibility. Under t hese condi- t ions, h e may have no o t h e r means of keeping to his desired course e x c e p t wi th t h e compass. When crossing an open body of wa te r , his compass m a y be t h e only m e a n s of making an a c c u r a t e landfall.

During th ick wea the r when you c a n nei- t h e r see nor hear t h e expec ted a ids t o navigation, a t t e m p t i n g t o run o u t t h e t i m e on a given course can d is rupt t h e p leasure of t h e cruise. The skipper gains l i t t l e c o m f o r t i n a chain of soundings t h a t does no t m a t c h those given on t h e c h a r t f o r t h e e x p e c t e d area . Any stranding, even for a shor t t ime , can b e an unnerving exper ience .

A pi lot will no t knowingly a c c e p t a cheap parachute. A good boa te r should n o t a c c e p t a bargain in l i fe jackets , f i r e ex- t inguishers , o r compass. T a k e t h e t i m e and spend the f e w e x t r a dollars t o purchase a compass to f i t your expec ted needs. Re- gardless of wha t t h e sa lesman may t e l l you, postpone buying until you have had t h e chance to check more than one m a k e and model.

L i f t e a c h compass, t i l t and turn i t , sim- ulat ing expec ted motions of t h e boat . T h e compass ca rd should have a smoo th and s t ab le react ion.

T h e ca rd of a good qual i ty compass will c o m e t o r e s t wi thout osci l lat ions a b o u t t h e lubber's line. Reasonable movemen t in your hand, comparable t o t h e rolling and pi tching

The compass is a delicate instrument and deserves respect. I t should be mounted securely and in position where it can be easily observed by the helmsman.

of the boat , should no t mater ia l ly a f f e c t t h e reading.

Installation Prope r instal lat ion of t h e compass does

no t happen by acc ident . Make a c r i t i c a l c h e c k of t he proposed loca t ion t o b e su re compass p l acemen t will p e r m i t t h e helmsman t o use i t wi th c o m f o r t and accuracy . F i rs t , t h e compass should be p laced d i r ec t ly in f r o n t of the he lmsman and in such a position t h a t i t c an be viewed wi thout body s t r e s s as he s i t s or s t ands in a pos ture of re laxed a ler tness . The compass should b e in t h e helmsman's zone of comfor t . If t h e compass is too f a r away, h e m a y have t o bend forward t o w a t c h i t ; t oo c lose and he m u s t r e a r backward f o r relief.

Do not hesitate to spend a few extra dollars for a good reliable compass. I f in doubt, seek advice from fellow boaters.

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1-16 SAFETY

Second, give some thought t o comfor t in heavy weather and poor visibilty conditions during the day and night. In some cases, the compass position may be partially determined by the location of the wheel, shi f t lever, and throt t le handle.

Third, inspect the compass s i te t o be sure the instrument will be a t leas t two f e e t f rom any engine indicators, bilge vapor de- tec tors, magnet ic instruments, or any s tee1

or iron objects. If the compass cannot be placed at leas t two f e e t (six f e e t would be be t t e r ) from one of these influences, then e i ther the compass or the other object mus t be moved, if f i rs t order accuracy is t o be expected.

Once the compass location appears t o be satisfactory, give the compass a t es t be fore installation. Hidden influences may be con- cealed under t h e cabin top, forward of t h e cabin a f t bulkhead, withi; the cockpit ceiling, or in a wood-covered stanchion.

Move the compass around in the a rea of t h e proposed location. Keep an e y e on t h e card. A magnetic influence is the only thing t h a t will make t h e ca rd turn. You can quickly find any such influence with the compass. If the influence can not be moved away or replaced by one of non-magnetic material , t e s t to determine whether i t i s merely magnetic, a small piece of iron or s tee l , or some magnetized steel. Bring t h e north pole of the compass near the object , then shift and bring the south pole near it. Both the north and south poles will be a t t r ac ted if t h e compass is demagnetized. If the object a t t r a c t s one pole a i d repels t h e other, then the compass is magnetized. If your compass needs to be demagnetized, t ake i t t o a shop equipped to do t h e job PROPERLY.

Afte r you have moved t h e compass a- round in the proposed mounting a rea , hold i t down or t ape i t in position. Test everything you feel might a f f e c t the compass and cause a deviation from a true reading. R o t a t e t h e wheel from hard over t o hard over. Switch on and off all t h e lights, radios, radio direction finder. radio telephone. depth finder and t h e shibboard intercom, if one is installed. Sound the e lec t r i c whistle, turn on the windshield wipers, s t a r t t h e engine (with water circulating through the engine), work t h e throt t le , and move the gear shi f t lever. If the boat has an auxiliary generator, s t a r t it.

If the card m o v e s during any one of these tests , t h e compass should be relocat- ed. Naturally, if something like the windshield wipers cause a slight deviation, i t may be necessary for you t o make a differ- e n t deviation table to use only when cer ta in pieces of equipment is operating. Bear in mind, follov.hg a course ' that is-only off a

ffIrtnocent" objects close to the compass, such as diet degree or two for several hours can make coke in an aluminum can, may cause serious problems and lead to disaster, as these three photos and the considerable di f ference a t the end, putt ing accompanying text illustrate. you on a reef, rock, or shoal.

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NAVIGATION 1- 17

Check t o be su re t h e in tended compass s i t e is solid. Vibration will i nc rease pivot wear.

Now, you a r e ready t o mount t h e compass. To prevent an e r ro r on a l l courses, t h e l ine through the lubber line and t h e compass c a r d pivot mus t be e x a c t l y paral lel t o t h e kee l of the boat. You can establ ish t h e fore- and- aft line of t h e b o a t with a s t o u t cord or string. Use c a r e t o t r ans fe r this l ine to t h e compass site. If necessary , shim t h e base of the compass until t he s t i le- type lubber l ine ( the one af f ixed t o t h e case and not gimbaled) is ver t ica l when t h e boa t is on an even keel. Drill the holes and moun t t h e compass.

Magnetic Items After Installation Many t imes an owner will instal l a n

expensive s t e r e o sys t em in the cabin of his boat. I t is not uncommon fo r t h e speake r s t o be mounted on the a f t bulkhead up agains t t h e overhead (ceiling). In a l m o s t e v e r y case, th i s position places one of t he speakers in very close proximity t o t h e compass , mounted above t h e ceiling.

As we a l l know, a m a g n e t is used in t h e opera t ion of t he speaker. Therefore , i t is very l ikely t h a t t h e speaker , mounted al- mos t under t he compass in t h e cabin will have a very pronounced a f f e c t on t h e compass accuracy .

Consider t he following test and t h e accompanying photographs as prove of t h e s t a t e m e n t s made.

F i r s t , t h e compass was read as 190 de- g r e e s while t h e boa t was s e c u r e in her slip.

Nex t a full c a n of d i e t coke in a n aluminum can was placed on one s ide and t h e compass read as 204 degrees , a good I 4 deg rees off .

Next , t he full c a n was moved t o the opposi te s ide of t h e compass and again a reading was observed. This t i m e as 189 degrees, 11 degrees off f r o m t h e original reading.

Final ly the con ten t s of the can w e r e consumed, t h e can placed on both sides of t h e compass wi th NO a f f e c t % o n t h e compass reading.

Two very impor t an t conclusions c a n be drawn f r o m these tests.

1- Something mus t have been in the con- t e n t s of t h e can to a f f e c t t h e compass s o drast ical ly.

2- Keep even "innocent" things c l e a r of t h e compass to avoid any possible e r r o r in t h e boat 's heading.

REMEMBER, a boa t moving through t h e wa te r at 10 knots on a compass e r r o r of just 5 deg rees will b e a lmos t 1.5 mi les off course in only ONE hour. A t night , o r in th ick wea the r , th is could very possibly pu t t h e b o a t on a r ee f , rock, o r shoal, wi th d isas t rous results.

1-1 1 STEERING

USCG o r BIA ce r t i f i ca t ion of a s t ee r ing sys tem means t h a t a l l mater ia l s , equipment , and instal lat ion of t h e s t ee r ing p a r t s m e e t o r e x c e e d spec i f ic s t anda rds fo r s t r eng th , type , and maneuverabil i ty. Avoid sha rp bends when rout ing t h e cable. Check t o b e s u r e t h e pulleys turn f r ee ly and a l l f i t t i ngs a r e secure .

1-12 ANCHORS

One of the mos t impor t an t pieces of equipment in t h e b o a t n e x t t o t h e power p lant is the ground t ack le carr ied. The engine m a k e s t h e boa t go and t h e anchor and i t s line a r e wha t hold i t in p lace when t h e b o a t is not secured t o a dock or on t h e beach.

The weight of the anchor MUST be adequate to secure the boat without dragging.

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1-18 SAFETY

The anchor m u s t be of su i tab le s ize, type , and weight t o give t h e skipper p e a c e of mind when his boa t is a t anchor. Under ce r t a in conditions, a second, smal le r , l igh ter anchor may help t o keep t h e boa t in a favorable position during a non- emergency day t ime si tuat ion.

In order for t h e anchor t o hold properly, a piece of chain mus t b e a t t a c h e d t o t h e anchor and then the nylon anchor line attached t o t h e chain. The a m o u n t of cha in should equal or exceed the length of t h e boat. Such a piece o f chain will ensure t h a t t h e anchor s tock will lay in an approx ima te horizontal position and p e r m i t t h e f lu t e s t o dig in to t h e bot tom and hold.

1-1 3 MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT

In addit ion t o the equipment you a r e legally required t o ca r ry in t h e boa t a n d those previously mentioned, s o m e e x t r a i t e m s will add t o your boat ing pleasure a n d safe ty . P rac t i ca l suggest ions would include: a bailing device (bucket , pump, etc.), b o a t

The bilge pump line must be cleaned frequently to ensure the entire bilge pump system will function properly in an emergency.

hook, fenders , s p a r e propeller, s p a r e engine par t s , tools, a n auxil iary m e a n s of propulsion (paddle or oars), spa re can of gasoline, f lashl ight , and e x t r a warm clothing. T h e a r e a of your boat ing ac t iv i ty , wea the r conditions, length of s t a y aboa rd your boa t , and t h e spec i f i c purpose will a l l con t r ibu te t o t h e kind and a m o u n t of s t o r e s you pu t aboard. When i t c o m e s t o personal gea r , heed t h e adv ice o f ve teran b o a t e r s who say, "Decide on how l i t t l e you think you can g e t by with, t hen c u t i t in half".

Bilge Pumps A u t o m a t i c bilge pumps should be equip-

ped with an overr iding manual switch. They should also have an indica tor in t h e operator's position to advise t h e he lmsman when the pump is operat ing. S e l e c t a pump t h a t will s tab i l ize i t s t e m p e r a t u r e within t h e manufac turer ' s spec i f ied l imi ts when i t is o p e r a t e d continuously. T h e pump m o t o r should b e a sea led or a r c l e s s type , su i tab le f o r a mar ine a tmosphere . P l a c e t h e bilge pump in le ts so excess bilge w a t e r can be removed at a l l normal b o a t trims. T h e in t akes should be properly sc reened t o preven t t h e pump f r o m sucking up debris f r o m t h e bilge. In t ake tubing should be of a high qual i ty and st i ff enough t o res i s t kinking and n o t co l lapse under maximum pump suct ion condition if t h e i n t a k e b e c o m e s blocked.

T o test opera t ion of t he bilge pump, o p e r a t e t h e pump switch. If t h e moto r does no t run, d i sconnec t t h e l eads t o t h e motor. Connec t a v o l t m e t e r t o t h e leads and see if vo l t age is indicated. If vol tage is n o t indica t ed , t hen t h e problem mus t b e in a blown fuse, d e f e c t i v e switch, o r s o m e o t h e r a r e a of t h e e l e c t r i c a l sys tem.

If t h e m e t e r i nd ica t e s vo l t age i s present at t h e leads, t hen remove, disassemble, and in spec t t he bilge pump. C lean i t , r ea s semble, connec t t h e leads, and o p e r a t e t h e swi t ch again. If t h e motor s t i l l f a i l s t o run, t h e pump m u s t b e replaced.

T o test t h e bilge pump swi tch , f i r s t d isconnect t he l eads f rom t h e pump and connec t t h e m to a test l ight or ohmmete r . Next , hold t h e swi tch f i rmly agains t the mount ing loca t ion in order t o m a k e a good ground. Now, t i l t t h e opposi te end of t he swi tch upward until i t is a c t i v a t e d as indica- t e d by the test l ight coming on o r the o h m m e t e r showing continuity. Finally, low- e r the swi tch slowly toward t h e mounting

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NAVIGATION 1- 19

position until i t is deac t iva ted . Measure t h e d i s t ance be tween t h e point t he swi tch was ac t iva t ed and t h e point i t was deac t iva ted . For proper serv ice , t he swi tch should deac t- iva t e be tween 112-inch and 114-inch f r o m t h e planned mounting position. CAUTION: The switch must never be mounted lower than the bilge pump pickup.

1-14 BOATING ACCIDENT REPORTS

In the United States, new federal and state regulations require an accident report be filed with the nearest State boating authority within 48 hours if a person is lost, disappears, or is injured to the degree of needing medical treat- ment beyond first aid.

Accidents involving only property or equipment damage MUST be reported within 10 days if the damage is in excess of $500.00. Some states require reporting of accidents with property damage less than $500.00 or a total boat loss. A $1,000.00 PENALTY may be assessed for failure to submit the report.

WORD OF ADVICE T a k e t i m e t o make a copy of t h e r epor t

t o k e e p fo r your records or f o r t h e insurance company. Once the r epor t is filed, t he C o a s t Guard will not give o u t a copy, even t o t h e person who filled t h e repor t .

T h e r epor t must give de ta i l s of t h e acc i- d e n t and include:

1- The da te , t ime, and e x a c t locat ion of t h e occurrence .

2- The n a m e of e a c h person who died, w a s lost , o r injured.

3- The number a i d n a m e of t h e vessel. 4- The n a m e s and addresses of t h e own-

e r and opera tor . If t he ope ra to r canno t f i le t h e r e p o r t f o r

any reason, e a c h person on aboa rd MUST not i fy the author i t ies , o r d e t e r m i n e t h a t t h e r epor t has been filed.

1-15 NAVIGATION

Buoys In the United States, a buoy system is used

as an assist to all boaters of all size craft to navigate coastal waterways and navigable rivers in safety. When properly read and understood, these buoys and markers will permit the boater to cruise with comparative confidence they will

be able to avoid reefs, rocks, shoals, and other hazards.

Several years ago the Coast Guard began making modifications to the U.S. aids to navigation in support of an agreement sponsored by the International Association of Lighthouse Authorities (IALA) and signed by representa- tives from most of the maritime nations around the world. The primary purpose of the modification is to improve safety by making buoy systems around the world more alike and less confusing.

The navigational buoys shown in the accompanying illustration depict aids .marking sides of channels, as seen when entering from seaward.

Lights The following informat ion regarding

l ights required on boa t s be tween sunse t a n d sunrise or during r e s t r i c t ed visibility i s taken d i rec t ly f rom a U.S. C o a s t Guard publi- ca t ion d a t e d 1984.

The t e r m s "PORT" and "STARBOARD" a r e used t o r e f e r to the l e f t and r ight s ide of t h e boat , when looking forward. O n e easy way to r emember this basic fundamen- t a l is t o consider t h e words "port" and " left" both have four l e t t e r s and g o together .

Hookup for testing an automatic bilge pump switch.

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1-20 SAFETY

Waterway Rules O n the wa te r , c e r t a i n basic safe-operat-

ing p rac t i ce s mus t be followed. You should learn and p rac t i ce them, fo r t o know, is t o be ab le t o handle your boa t with conf idence and safe ty . Knowledge of wha t t o do, and not do, will add a g r e a t dea l t o t h e enjoy- m e n t you will rece ive f rom your boat ing inves tment .

a lmos t a synopsis o f t h e ru les and should no t b e considered in any way as cover ing t h e e n t i r e subject .

Powered boats mus t yield the right-of- way t o a l l boa t s wi thout motors , e x c e p t when being overtaken. When mee t ing an- o the r boa t head-on, k e e p t o s ta rboard , unless you are too f a r t o po r t t o m a k e this prac t ica l . When ove r t ak ing ano the r boa t , t h e right-of-way belongs t o t he boa t being over taken . If your b o a t i s being passed, you mus t main ta in course and speed.

When two boa t s approach at an angle and t h e r e is danger of collision, t h e boa t t o po r t mus t give way t o t h e b o a t t o s ta rboard . Always k e e p t o s t a rboa rd in a nar row channel o r canal. Boats underway mus t s t a y c l e a r of vesse ls fishing wi th ne ts , l ines, o r trawls. (Fishing boa t s a r e no t al lowed t o f i sh in channels or t o o b s t r u c t navigation.)

Rules of the Road T h e best advice possible and a C o a s t

Guard requi rement fo r boa t s ove r 39' 4" (12 me te r s ) s ince 1981, is t o obta in an of f ic ia l copy of t h e "Rules of t h e Road", which includes Inland Waterways, Western Rivers , and t h e G r e a t Lakes fo r s tudy and ready reference .

The following two paragraphs give a VERY brief condensed and abbrev ia t ed --

Starboard Side Even Numbers

Preferred Channel Preferred Channel to Starboard to Port

Light Rhythm

Port Side Odd Numbers

Light

\ I / Rhythms \ I / 1 1 - 1 1 1

Composite Group Flashing (2+ 1 ) FIXED FLASHING - OCCULTING - QUICK FUSHING- d EQ INT -

G "9" FI G 4sec

RG "DM CGpFl R

Lighted Buoy (Green Light Only)

Lighted Buoy (Red Light Only)

Lighted Buoy Lighted Buoy (Green Light Only) (Red Light Only)

G R C "F"

RG N "L"

Can Buoy (Unlighted)

Nun Buoy (Unlighted)

Can Buoy (Unlighted)

Nun Buoy (Unlighted)

Daymark Daymark Day mark Daymark

MODIFICATIONS: Port hand aids will be green with green lights. All starboard hand aids will have red lights.

MODIFICATIONS: Green will replace black. Light rhythm will be changed to Composite Gp FI (2 + 1).

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TUNING

2-1 INTRODUCTION

The ef f ic iency , rel iabi l i ty, fuel economy and enjoyment avai lable f r o m engine perf or- m a n c e a r e all d i rec t ly dependent on having i t tuned properly. T h e impor t ance of performing serv ice work in t h e sequence detai l- e d in th is chapter cannot b e ove r emphas ized. Before making any adjus tments , c h e c k t h e Specif icat ions in t h e Appendix. NEVER re ly on memory when making cr i t ica l adjustments.

Before beginning t o tune a n y engine, check t o b e s u r e t h e engine has sa t i s f ac to ry compression. An engine wi th worn o r broken piston rings, burned pistons, or badly sco red cylinder walls, canno t b e m a d e t o per form properly no m a t t e r how much t i m e and expense is spent on t h e tune-up. Poor compression must b e c o r r e c t e d o r t h e tune- up will not give t h e desired results.

The oppos i te of poor compression would b e t o consider good compression as evidence of a sa t i s f ac to ry cylinder. However, t h i s i s not necessari ly t h e case, when working on a n ou tboa rd engine. As t h e professional mechan ic has discovered, many t i m e s t h e compression check will i nd ica t e a sa t i s f ac- t o r y cyl inder , b u t a f t e r t h e heads a r e pulled and a n inspect ion m a d e , t h e cyl inder will requi re service.

A prac t ica l ma in tenance program t h a t i s fol lowed throughout t h e yea r , is o n e of t h e best m e t hods of ensuring t h e engine will give sa t i s f ac to ry pe r fo rmance at any t ime.

The e x t e n t of t h e engine tune-up i s usually dependent on t h e t i m e l a p s e s ince t h e l a s t service. A c o m p l e t e tune-up of t h e e n t i r e engine would enta i l a lmost all of t h e work outl ined in this manual. A logical s equence of s t eps will b e presented in genera l te rms. If addit ional informat ion o r

Damaged piston, probably caused by inaccurate fuel mixture, or improper point setting.

Operating the engine in a test tank with the cowling removed in preparation to making adjustments.

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2-2 TUNING

detailed service work is required, t h e chap- t e r containing t h e instructions will be referenced.

Each year higher compression rat ios a r e built into modern outboard engines and the electr ical systems become more complex, especially with e lec t ronic (capacitor discharge) units. Therefore, t h e need for reliable, author i ta t ive , and detai led instructions becomes more critical. The information in th is chapter and the referenced chapters fulfill t h a t requirement.

2-2 TUNE-UP SEQUENCE

If twenty di f ferent mechanics were ask- ed the question, "What const i tu tes a major and minor tune-up?", i t is entirely possible twen ty different answers would be given. As t h e t e r m s a r e used in th i s manual and other outboard books, t h e following work is normally performed for a minor and major tune-up.

Minor Turne-up Lubricate engine. Drain and replace gear oil. Adjust points. Adjust carburetor. Clean exterior surface of engine. Tank test engine for f ine adjustments.

Major Tune-up Remove heads. Clean carbon from pistons and cylinders. Clean and overhaul carburetor. Clean and overhaul fuel pump. Rebuild and adjust ignition system. Lubr icate engine. Drain and replace gear oil. Clean exterior su r face of engine. Tank t e s t engine for f ine adjustments.

During a major tune-up, a definite sequence of service work should b e followed t o return the engine t o the maximum per- fo rmance desired. This type of work should not b e confused with a t t empt ing t o l o c a t e problem a reas of "why" t h e engine is not performing satisfactorily. This work is classified a s "troubleshooting". In many cases, these two a reas will overlap, because many t imes a minor or major tune-up will co r rec t the malfunction and return the system t o normal operation.

The foIlowing l ist is a suggested sequence of tasks t o perform during t h e tune- up service work. The tasks a r e merely l is ted here. Generally procedures a r e given in subsequent sections of th i s chapter. For more detailed instructions, s e e t h e referenced chapter.

1- Perform a compression check of each cylinder. S e e Chap te r 3.

The time, e f for t , and expense o f a tune-up will not A boat and lower unit covered with marine growth. restore an engine to satisfactory performance, if the Such a condition is a serious hinderance to satisfactory pistons are damaged. performance.

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COMPRESSION CHECK 2-3

2- Inspect the spark plugs t o determine their condition. Test for adequate spark at t h e plug. See Chapter 5. 3- Sta r t t h e engine in a body of wa te r and check the water flow through the engine. See Chapter 8. 4- Check t h e gear oil in the lower unit. See Chapter 8. 5- Check the carburetor adjustments and t h e need for an overhaul. See Chap- t e r 4. 6- Check the fuel pump for adequate performance and delivery. See Chapter 4. 7- Make a general inspection of the ignition system. See Chapter 5. 8- Test the s t a r t e r motor and the solenoid. See Chapter 6. 9- Check t h e internal wiring.

10- Check t h e synchronization. See Chapter 5.

2-3 COMPRESS ION CHECK

A compression check is extremely important , because an engine with low or uneven compression between cylinders CAN- NOT b e tuned to operate satisfactorily. Therefore, i t is essential t h a t any compression problem be corrected before proceeding with t h e tune-up procedure. S e e Chapter 3.

If the powerhead shows any indication of overheating, such as discolored or scorched paint, especially in the a rea of t h e No. 1 cylinder (top on 3-cylinder units and top

Removing the spark plugs for inspection. Worn plugs are one of the major contributing factors to poor engine performance.

starboard bank on V4's), inspect the cylinders visually thru t h e transfer por ts f o r possible scoring. A more thorough inspection can be made if t h e heads a r e removed. I t is possible for a cylinder with sa t is factory compression t o be scored slightly. Also, check t h e water pump. The overheating condition may be caused by a faulty wa te r Pump

An overheating condition may also b e caused by running the engine ou t of the water. For unknown reasons, many opera- to rs have the misconception t h a t running an engine for a shor t period of t i m e without t h e lower unit submerged in water , can be done without harm. FALSE! Such a pract ice will result in an overheated condition in a m a t t e r of SECONDS.

Water must circulate through $he lower unit to the engine any the the engine is run

to prevent damage to the water pump and an over heating condition. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump andl cause ttk engine to overheat.

Checking Compression Remove t h e spark plug wires. ALWAYS

grasp t h e molded c a p and pull i t loose with a

A compression check should be taken in each cylinder before spending time and money on tune-up work. Without adequate compression, efforts in other areas to regain engine performance will be wasted.

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2-4 TUNING

BROKEN

Damaged spark plugs, Notice the broken electrode on the l e f t plug. The broken part must be found and removed before returning the engine to service.

twis t ing motion t o prevent d a m a g e t o t h e connection. R e m o v e t h e spark plugs and k e e p t h e m in ORDER by cylinder for evalua- t ion l a t e r . Ground t h e spark plug leads t o t h e engine t o render t h e ignition sys t em inopera t ive while per forming t h e compression check.

Insert a compression gauge in to t h e No. 1 ( top s ta rboard bank) spark plug opening. C r a n k t h e engine wi th t h e s t a r t e r , o r pull on t h e s t a r t e r cord , t h r u at l e a s t 4 c o m p l e t e s t rokes wi th t h e t h r o t t l e at t h e wide-open position, or until t h e highest possible reading is observed on t h e gauge. Record t h e reading. R e p e a t t h e test and record t h e compression for e a c h cylinder. A variat ion be tween cylinders is f a r m o r e impor t an t than t h e ac tua l readings. A varia- t ion of m o r e t h a n 5 psi be tween cyl inders i nd ica t e s t he lower compression cylinder m a y b e defect ive. The problem m a y b e worn, broken, or s t ick ing piston rings, scored pistons or worn cylinders. These prob- l e m s may only b e de t e rmined a f t e r t h e heads have been removed. Removing t h e

A foul spark plug. The condition o f this plug indicates problems in the cylinder that should be cor- rec ted.

heads on an outboard engine is not t h a t big a deal and m a y s a v e many hours of f ru s t r a t ion and t h e c o s t of purchasing unnecessary pa r t s t o c o r r e c t a faul ty condition.

2-4 SPARK PLUG INSPECTION

Inspect e a c h spark plug fo r badly worn e lec t rodes , g lazed , broken, b l i s te red , o r l e a d fouled insulators. Rep lace all of t h e plugs, if o n e shows signs of excess ive wear.

Make an evaluat ion of t h e cylinder per- f o r m a n c e by compar ing t h e spark condit ion wi th t h o s e shown in Chap te r 5. C h e c k e a c h spark plug t o b e s u r e t h e y a r e all of t h e s a m e manufac tu re r and have t h e s a m e h e a t range rat ing.

Inspect t h e t h r e a d s in t h e spa rk plug opening of t h e heads and c lean t h e t h r e a d s be fo re instal l ing t h e plug. If t h e t h r e a d s a r e damaged, t h e heads should b e removed and and a Heli-coil inser t installed. If an at- t e m p t is m a d e to drill o u t t h e opening wi th t h e heads in place, s o m e of t h e filings m a y fal l i n t o t h e cylinder and cause d a m a g e t o t h e cylinder wall during operat ion. Because t h e heads a r e m a d e of aluminum, t h e filings cannot b e removed wi th a magnet .

When purchasing new spark plugs, AL- WAYS ask t h e mar ine dea ler if t h e r e has been a spark plug change f o r t h e engine being serviced.

C r a n k t h e engine through severa l revolu t ions t o blow o u t any ma te r i a l which might have b e c o m e dislodged during cleaning.

Install t h e spark plugs and t i gh ten t h e m t o t h e torque value given in t h e Appendix. ALWAYS use a new gasket and wipe t h e seats in t h e block clean. The gaske t m u s t

Today, numerous type spark plugs are available for service. ALWAYS check with your local marine dealer to be sure you are purchasing the proper plugs for the engine being serviced.

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Worn ignition points are a common problem area contributing to poor engine performance.

b e fully compressed on clean sea t s t o comple te t h e heat transfer process and t o provide a gas t ight seal in the cylinder. If the torque value is too high, t h e heat will dissi- p a t e too rapidly. Conversely, if the torque value is too low, heat will not dissipate f a s t enough.

Breaker Points Rough or discolored con tac t surfaces is

sufficient reason for replacement. The cam follower will usually have worn away by t h e t i m e t h e points have become unsatisfactory fo r ef f ic ient service.

Check t h e resistance across the contacts . If t h e test indicates ZERO resistance , t h e points a r e serviceable. A slight resistance across t h e points will a f f e c t idle operation. X high resistance may cause t h e ignition sysaem t o malfunction and loss of spark. Therefore , if any resistance across t h e points is indicated, t h e point s e t should b e replaced.

2-6 SYNCHRONIZING

The t iming on large OMC (Johnson and Evinr ude) outboard engines is controlled by adjustment of the points and through proper belt positioning, as outlined in Chap te r 5. If t h e points a r e adjusted too closely, t h e spark plugs will f i r e early; if adjusted with excessive gap, t h e plugs will f i r e too la te , for efficient operation. Therefore, co r rec t point adjustment and synchronization a r e essential for proper engine operation. An engine may be in apparent excellent mechanical condition, but perform poorly, unless the points and synchronization have been adjusted precisely, according t o t h e Specifications in the Appendix. To synchronize t h e engine, s e e Chap te r 5.

2-5 IGNITION SYSTEM

Three ignition systems a r e used on the outboard engines covered i n th i s manual: a be1 t-dr iven magneto system, a be1 t-dr iven ba t t e ry ignition sys tem, and a capaci tor discharge (CD) system. If engine performance is less than expected, and t h e ignition is diagnosed as the problem area , refer t o Chapter 5 for detai led service procedures. To synchronize t h e ignition sys tem with t h e fuel sys tem, s e e Chap te r 5.

2-7 BATTERY SERVICE

The fuel and ignition systems on any engine MUST be properly synchronized before maximum performance can be obtained from the unit.

A b a t t e r y may or may not be required fo r engine operation once t h e engine is running. To clarify: With a magneto ignition system, a b a t t e r y is only used t o crank

The battery MUST be located near the engine in a well-ventilated area. It must be secured in such a manner that absolutely no movement is possible in any direction under the most violent action of the boat.

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the engine for s tar t ing purposes. Once t h e engine is running properly, t h e ba t t e ry could very well be removed without af fect ing engine operation. Therefore, if t h e ba t t e ry is completely dead, t h e engine may be hand s ta r t ed with a pull cord and opera te efficiently.

If the engine is equipped with ei ther a ba t t e ry ignition system or t h e capaci tor discharge (CD) system, the ba t t e ry is necessary to keep t h e engine running. These engines a r e a1 so equipped with an a1 ternator charging system t o maintain t h e ba t t e ry at a sa t is factory charge for proper engine perform ance.

If a ba t t e ry is used f o r s tar t ing, inspect and service t h e bat tery , cables and connections. Check for signs of corrosion. Inspect the ba t t e ry case for cracks or bulges, d i r t , acid, and e lect rolyte leakage. Check t h e e lect rolyte level in each cell.

Fill each cell t o t h e proper level with distilled water or water passed th ru a de- mineralizer.

Clean t h e t o p of the battery. The t o p of a 12-volt ba t t e ry should be kept especially clean of acid film and dirt , because of the

A check of the electrolyte in the battery should be a regular task on the maintenance schedule on any boat.

An inexpensive brush should be plrchased and used to c l e m the battery terminals. Clean terminals will ensure a proper connection.

high voltage between t h e ba t t e ry terminals. For best results, f i rs t wash the ba t t e ry with a diluted ammonia or baking soda solution t o neutra l ize any acid present. Flush the solution off t h e ba t t e ry with clean water. Keep the vent plugs t ight t o prevent the neutralizing solution or wa te r from entering t h e cells.

Check t o be sure t h e ba t t e ry is fastened securely in position. The hold-down device should be t ight enough t o prevent any movement of t h e ba t t e ry in t h e holder, but not so t ight as t o place a s t ra in on the ba t t e ry case.

Common set of jumper cables for using a second battery to crank and start the engine. EXTREME care should be exercised when using a second battery, as explained in the text .

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BATTERY SERVICE 2-7

If the ba t t e ry posts or cable terminals a re corroded, t h e cables should be cleaned separate ly with a baking soda solution and a wire brush. Apply a thin coating of A4ulti- purpose Lubricant t o t h e posts and cable clamps before making t h e connections. The lubricant will help t o prevent corrosion.

If t h e ba t t e ry has remained under-charged, check for high resistance in t h e charging circuit. If t h e ba t t e ry appears t o be using too much water , t h e ba t t e ry may be defective, or i t may b e too small fo r t h e job.

Jumper Cables If booster bat ter ies a r e used for s tar t ing

an engine t h e jumper cables must be connected correctly and in the proper sequence t o prevent damage to ei ther bat tery , or t h e al ternator diodes.

. ALWAYS connect a cable from the posi- t ive terminals of t h e dead ba t t e ry t o t h e positive terminal of the good ba t t e ry FIRST. NEXT, connect one end of t h e other cable t o the negative terminals of the good ba t t e ry and t h e other end of t h e ENGINE for a good ground. By making the ground connection on t h e engine, if t h e r e is an a r c when you make the connection i t will not be near t h e battery. An a r c near t h e ba t t e ry could cause an explosion, destroying the ba t t e ry

W LTAGE RECT I F I ER REGULATOR AMMETER

SWITCH Wiring diagram for an alternator charging circuit.

and causing serious personal injury. If i t is necessary t o use a fast-charger on

a dead bat tery , ALWAYS disconnect one of t h e boat cables f rom t h e ba t t e ry f i rs t , t o prevent burning ou t t h e diodes in t h e al ternator.

NEVER use a f a s t charger a s a booster t o s t a r t t h e engine because t h e diodes in t h e generator will be DAMAGED.

Generator Charging A generator is installed on t h e 50 hp, 60

hp, and 75 hp models equipped with a distr ibutor magneto system. If the unit is equipped with a ba t t e ry ignition or C D sys- t e m , an a l ternator is installed.

When t h e ba t t e ry is partially discharged, t h e ammete r should change from discharge to charge between 1500 t o 1 SO0 rpm for all models. If the ba t t e ry is fully-charged, t h e rpm will be a l i t t le higher.

With t h e engine running, in gear, in t h e water , increase t h e th ro t t l e until t h e rpm is approximately 5200 rpm. The ammete r reading should m e e t t h e A1 te rna to r Specifi- cations in t h e Appendix. With a fully- charged ba t t e ry t h e a m m e t e r reading will

Emergency ignition safe ty device. One end o f the cord is secured to the ignition key and the other end attached to the helmsman's clothing. Should the man at the wheel be accidentally thrown overboard, the key will be ejected from the ignition and the engine immediately shut down.

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2-8 TUNING

b e a bit lower because of the self- regulating characterist ics of t h e generating systems. Before disconnecting the ammete r , remove t h e red harness lead connected t o t h e posi- t ive ba t t e ry terminal. For generating service, s e e Chapter 6.

A1 ternator Charging When t h e ba t t e ry is partial1 y discharged,

t h e a m m e t e r should change from discharge t o charge between 800 t o 1000 rpm for all models. If t h e ba t t e ry is fully-charged, t h e rpm will be a l i t t l e higher.

With t h e engine running, increase t h e th ro t t l e t o approximately 5200 rpm. The amm e te r reading should be approximately equal to t h e amperage rating of the al ternator installed. With a fully-charged ba t t e ry , the ammeter reading will be a bit lower due t o t h e self-regulating characterist ics of t h e generating systems. Before disconnecting t h e ammete r , reconnect t h e red harness lead t o the positive ba t t e ry terminal and install the wing nut.

2-8 CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS

Fuel and Fuel Tanks Take t i m e t o check t h e fuel tank and all

of t h e fuel lines, fittings, c o u p h g s , valves, flexible tank fill and vent. If t h e fuel was not drained at t h e end of t h e previous season, make a careful inspection for gum formation. When gasoline is allowed t o stand for long periods of t ime, particularly in t h e presence of copper, gummy deposits form. This gum can clog the fi l ters, lines, and passageway in t h e carburetor.

An OMC sixgallon fuel tank with the fuel line connected through a quickdisconnect fitting. Such a fitting is handy when the tank is removed from the boat for filling.

If the condition of the fuel i s in doubt, drain, clean, and fill t h e tank with f resh fuel .

Fuel pressure at t h e carburetor should be checked whenever a lack of fuel volume at t h e car buretor is suspected.

High-speed Adjustment The high-speed needle valve is adjustable

on most models covered in this manual through 1965. Af te r 1965, t h e high-speed orif ice is fixed at t h e factory and is NOT adjustable. However, larger or smaller ori- f ices may b e installed for different eleva- tions. On all Johnson/Evinrude engines, t h e high-speed needle valve is t h e upper valve on the carburetor. The upper needle is always t h e idle adjustment. The 3-cylinder units do have a high speed adjustment. A beginning "rough" adjustment f o r t h e bigh- speed needle valve is 314 turn ou t (counterclockwise) f rom t h e lightly seated (closed) position. TAKE CARE not t o seat t h e valve firmly t o prevent damage t o t h e valve or the carburetor.

To make t h e high-speed adjustment: a- Mount t h e engine in a body of water. NEVER, AGAIN NEVER, opera te t h e en-

g i ~ e at high speed with a flush device attached. The engine, operating at high speed with such a device a t tached, would RUN-A- WAY from lack of a load on the propeller, causing extensive damage.

b- Connect a tachometer t o t h e engine. CAUTION: Water must circulate through

the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just f ive seconds without water will damage the water pump.

Low- and high-speed carburetor adjustments on some V 4 engines. The text lists specific models.

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CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS 2-9

c- S t a r t t h e engine and allow i t t o warm t o operating temperature.

d- Shift t h e engine in to forward gear. e- With the engine running in forward

gear , advance t h e t h r o t t l e t o t h e wide open position, and then very SLOWLY turn the high-speed needle valve inward (CLOCK- WISE) until t h e engine begins t o loose rpm. Now, SLOWLY r o t a t e t h e needle valve outward (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) until the engine peaks out at t h e highest rpm.

If the high-speed needle valve adjust- m e n t is too lean, t h e low-speed adjus tment will be affected. Under cer ta in conditions i t may be necessary to adjust t h e high-speed needle valve just a bit richer in order t o obtain a sa t is factory idle adjustment.

Af te r the high-speed needle adjustment has been obtained, proceed with t h e idle ad- justm ent as outlined in t h e next paragraphs.

Idle Adjustment Due t o local conditions, i t may be neces-

sary t o adjust t h e carburetor while t h e engine is running in a t es t tank or with t h e boat in a body of water. For maximum performance, t h e idle mixture and the idle rpm should be adjusted under actual operating conditions.

Set the idle mixture screw at t h e specified number of turns open f rom a lightly seated position. In most cases this i s f rom 1 t o 1% turns open f rom close. Refe r t o t h e Specifications in the Appendix.

S ta r t t h e engine and allow i t t o warm t o operating temperature.

CAUTION: Water must c i rcu la te through the lower unit to t h e engine any t i m e the engine is run to prevent damage to t h e w a t e r pump i n t h e lower unit. Jus t f ive seconds without wa te r will damage t h e wa te r pump.

NEVER, AGAIN NEVER, operate t h e engine at high speed with a flush device attached. The engine, operating at high speed with such a device a t tached, would RUN-A- WAY from lack of a load on t h e propeller, causing extensive damage.

With t h e engine running in forward gear, slowly tu rn t h e idle mixture screw COUN- TERCLOCKWISE until the a f fec ted cylinders s t a r t t o load up or f i re unevenly, due t o an over-rich mixture. Slowly turn t h e idle mixture sc rew CLOCKWISE until t h e cylinders f i r e evenly and engine rpm increases. Continue t o slowly turn t h e screw CLOCK- WISE until too lean a mixture is obtained and t h e rpms fall off and t h e engine begins t o misfire. Now, s e t t h e idle mixture screw one-quarter (1/4) turn ou t (counterclockwise) f rom the lean-out position. This adjustment will result in an approximate t r u e setting. A too-lean se t t ing is a major cause of hard s tar t ing a cold engine. I t is be t t e r t o have the adjustment on the rich side

A V 4 engine with the low-speed carburetor adjust- m ents identified.

Carhretor from a 90 hp or 100 hp engine with the four low-speed adjusting knobs identified.

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2-10 TUNING

rather than on t h e lean side. Stating i t another way, d o not make the adjustment any leaner than necessary t o obtain a smooth idle.

If the engine hesitates during acceleration a f t e r adjusting t h e idle mixture, t h e mixture is too lean. Enrich the mixture slightly, by turning t h e adjustment screw inward until the engine accelera tes correctly.

With the engine running in forward gear, r o t a t e t h e nylon idle adjustment screw, loca ted on the portside of the engine, until t h e engine idles at t h e recommended rpm, as given in the Specifications in the Appen- dix. This idle adjustment screw is always exposed on t h e outside of the shroud.

Repairs and Adjustments For detailed procedures t o disassemble,

clean, assemble, and adjust t h e carburetor, s e e t h e appropriate section in Chapter 4 fo r t h e carburetor type on t h e engine being serviced.

2-9 FUEL PUMPS

Many times, a defective fuel pump diaphragm is mistakenly diagnosed as a prob- l e m in t h e ignition system. The most common problem is a tiny pin-hole in t h e diaphragm. Such a small hole will permit gas t o en te r t h e crankcase and wet foul t h e spark plug of t h e cylinder t o which t h e fuel pump is a t t ached on Fcyl inder units. This fouling will occur at idle-speed. On V 4

A V 4 engine being operated in an adequate size test tank for making high-speed carburetor adjustments.

A late model fuel pump installed on 3-cylinder engine. The only service possible on this particular pump is t o change the filter.

units, t h e duel pump is a t t ached t o t h e No. 4 (bottom port bank) cylinder. During high- speed operation, gas quanti ty is l imited, t h e plug is not foul an8 wid1 therefore f i r e in a - -- sat is factory Fanner .

A fuel pump installed on a V 4 engine. This pump may be rebuilt. Replacement parts are available through the local OMC dealer.

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STARTER MOTOR 2- 1 1

If the fuel pump fa i ls t o perform properly , an insufficient fuel supply will be delivered t o t h e carburetor. This lack of fuel will cause t h e engine t o run lean, lose rgm or cause piston scoring.

When a fuel pressure gauge is added t o t h e system, i t should be installed at t h e end of the fuel l ine leading t o the upper carburetor. To ensure maximum perf ormance, t h e fuel pressure must be 2 psi or more at f d l throt t le .

Tune-up Task Most fuel pumps a r e equipped with a fuel

filter. The f i l ter may be cleaned by f i rs t removing the a p , then t h e fi l ter d e m e n t , cleaning t h e par ts and drying t h e w with compressed air , and finally installinp, them in their original position.

A fuel pump pressure t e s t should be made m y t i m e t h e enaine fails t o perform satisfactori l y at high speed.

NEVER use liquid Neoprene on fuel Ijpie fittings. Always use Permatex when making fuel line connections. Perrnatex is available at almost a91 marine and hardware stores.

Only one Johnson/Evinr ude fuel pump may be rebuilt, s e e accompanying illustration. A11 other pumps must be replaced as a unit. F Q ~ fuel pump service, see Chapter 4.

Comm ercial additives, such as Sta-bil, may be used to keep the gasoline in the fuel tank fresh. Under favorable conditions, such additives will prevent the fuel from llsouring" for up to twelve months.

Functional diagram of a typical cranking circuit.

2-10 STARTER AND SOLENOID

Starter Motor Test Check t o be su re t h e ba t t e ry has a 70-

ampere rat ing and is fully charged. Would you believe, many s t a r t e r motors a r e need- lessly disassembled, when t h e ba t t e ry i s actually t h e culprit.

Lubricate t h e pinion gear and screw shaf t with No. 10 oil.

Connect one l ead of a voltmeter t o t h e positive terminal s f t h e s t a r t e r motor. Connect the other mete r lead t o a good ground on t h e engine. Check t h e ba t t e ry voltage under load by turning t h e ignition switch t o t h e START position and observing t h e vol tmeter reading.

Typical starter motor installation for all V 4 engines for the model years covered by this manual.

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2-12 TUNING

If the reading is 9-112 volts or greater , and t h e s t a r t e r motor fails t o operate , repair or replace t h e s t a r t e r motor. See Chapter 6.

Solenoid Test An ohmmeter is the only instrument re-

quired to effectively test a solenoid. Test t h e ohmmeter by connecting t h e red and black leads together. Adjust t h e pointer t o t h e right side of the scale.

On all Jshnson/Evinrude engines t h e case of t h e solenoid does NOT provide a suitable ground t o t h e engine. Hundreds of solenoids have been discar&d because of t h e errowe- o w belief t h e case is providing a nround and t h e unit should function when 12-volts is applied. Not so! O n e terminal of t h e solenoid is connected t o a 12-volt source. The other ter rnind is connected via a whi te wire t o a cutout switch on t o p af t h e engine. This cutout switch provides a sa fe ty t o break t h e ground t o t h e solenoid in t h e event t h e engine s ta r t s at a high rpm. Therefore, t h e solenoid ground is made a d brokm by t h e cutout switch.

NEVER connect the ba t t e ry leads t o t h e large terminals of t h e solenoid, o r t h e test meter will b e damaged. Connect each l ead of t h e test m e t e r t o each of t h e large terminals on t h e solenoid.

Using ba t t e ry jumper leads, connect t h e p s i t ive lead f rorn t h e positive terminal of t h e ba t t e ry t o t h e small "S"" terminal of t h e solenoid. Connect t h e negative l ead t o t h e negative ba t t e ry terminal and t h e '1'' terminal of the solenoid. If the mete r pointer hand moves in to t h e OK block, t h e solenoid is serviceable. If t h e pointer fai ls t o reach t h e OK block, t h e solenoid must be replaced.

2-1 1 INTERNAL WIRING HARNESS

An internal wiring harness is only used on t h e larger horsepower engines covered in th is manual. If t h e engine is equipped with a wiring harness, t h e following checks and test will apply.

Check t h e internal wiring harness if problems have been encountered with any of t h e electrical components. Check for frayed or chafed insulation and/or loose connections between wires and terminal connections.

Check t h e harness connector for signs of corrosion. Inspect t h e electrical "prongs" t o

3 TEST LEAD 3 Starter motor installed on all 3-cylinder engines

covered in this manual. Proper hook-up of an ohmmeter in preparation to

testing a starter solenoid.

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WATER PUMP 2-13

b e sure they a r e not bent or broken. If the harness shows any evidence of t h e f o r e ~ ~ i n g problems, t h e problem must be corrected before proceeding with any harness testinn.

Verify t h a t t h e "prongs" of t h e harness connector a r e clean and f r e e s f corrosion. Convince yourself t h a t a good electrical connection is being made between t h e harness connector and t h e remote control harness.

Short Test (See Wiring Ciagram in the Ap- pendix) 50 hp - 1959 Models 75 hp - 1 960 Models

Disconnect the internal wiring harness from t h e electrical components. Use a magneto analyzer, set on Scale No. 3 and check for continuity between any of t h e wires in the harness. Use Scale No. 3 and check for continuity between any wire and a good ground. If continuity exists , t h e harness MUST be repaired or replaced.

Resistance Test (See t h e V1iring Diagram in t h e Appendix.)

Use a magneto analyzer, set on Scale No. 2. Clip t h e small red and black leads together. Turn the p e t e r adjustment knob fo r Scale No. 2 until t h e mete r pointer a- ligns with the set position on t h e l e f t side of tne "OK" block on Scale No. 2. Separa te t h e small red and Mack leads. Use t h e Wiring Diagram in t h e Appendix, and check each

The terminals of a side-mounted electrical connector should be inspected and cleaned each season. This connector is exposed and wlnerable to dampness and corrosion.

wire for resistance between t h e harness connection and t h e terminal ends. If resistance exists (meter reading outside t h e "OKw block) t h e b r n e s s MUST b e repaired or replaced.

2-12 WATER PUMP CHECK

FIRST A GOOD WORD: The wate r pump MUST be in very good c o n d i t i ~ n for t h e engine t o deliver sa t is factory service. The pump performs an extremely iwpcartawt function by supplying enough water t o properly cool t h e engine. Therefore, i n most cases, i t is advisable t o replace t h e comple te water pump assewbly at l eas t once a year, or anyt ime t h e lower unit is disassembled for service.

Sometimes dlarinsz adjustment procedures, i t is necessary ts run the m q i n e with a flush device a t tache$ to t h e lower unit. NEVER opera te t h e engine over l O O Q rpm with a flush device a t tached, because t h e

Check-ing water circulation and discharge, using a flush attachment connected to a garden hose. This is NOT a conclusive verification that the water is circulating properly. The garden hose water pressure could give a false impression all is well, when in reality under operating conditions the circulation may not be s a t i s factory.

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2-14 TUNING

WATER

Water pimp housing on a V 4 engine. Notice how the pump is installed on top of the lower unit.

engine may "RUN-A-WAY" due t o the no- load condition on t h e propeller. A "run-a- way" engine could be severely damaged. As t h e name implies, t h e flush device is pri- marily used t o flush t h e engine a f t e r use in sa l t water or contaminated f resh water. Regular use of t h e flush device will prevent s a l t or silt deposits f rom accumulating in t h e water passageway. During and irnmedi- a te ly a f t e r flushing, keep t h e motor in an upright position until all of t h e water has drained f rom t h e drive shaf t housing. This will prevent water from entering t h e power heads by way of t h e drive shaf t housing and t h e exhaust ports, during t h e flush. I t will also prevent residual water f rom being trap-

Checking water circulation with the engine operating in an adequate size test tank. Notice the water discharge, indicating the water pimp and passages are in satisfactory condition.

Considerable amount of fish line entangled around the propeller shaft. Some of the fish line actually melted, giving i t the appearance of a washer.

ped in the driveshaft housing and other passageways.

To test t h e water pump, t h e lower unit MUST be placed in a test tank or t h e boat moved into a body of water. The pump must now work t o supply a volume to t h e engine.

Lack of adequate water supply f rom the water pump th ru t h e engine will cause any number of power head failures, such a s s tuck rings, scored cylinder walls, burned pistons, etc.

2-13 PROPELLER

Check t h e propeller Mades for nicks, cracks, or bent condition. If t h e propeller is damaged, the local marine dealer can make repairs or send i t ou t t o a shop specializing in such work.

Remove t h e co t t e r key, propeller nut, shear pin, and t h e propeller f ram t h e shaf t . Check t h e propeller shaf t seal t o be sure i t is not leaking. Check t h e a r e a just forward of the seal t o be sure a fish l ine is not wrapped around t h e shaft .

Ski rope entangeled around the propeller shaft. Some of the rope has actually melted and fused together. In this case, the rope cut through the lower unit oil seal, allowing the lubricant to escape.

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LOWER UNIT 2-15

Operation At Recommended RPM Check with t h e local O Y C dealer, o r a

propeller shop fo r t h e recommended s ize and pitch for a particular s ize engine, boat, and intended operation. The correct p ropd- l e r should be installed on t h e engine t o enable operation at recommended rpm.

Two rpm ranges a r e usual1 y given. The lower rpm is recommended for large , heavy slow boats, o r for commercial applications. The higher rpm is recommended fo r l ight , f a s t boats. The wide rpm range will result in g rea te r satisfaction because of maximum performance a d greater fuel economy. If t h e engine speed is above t h e recommended rpm, t r y a higher pitch propeller or t h e s a m e pitch cupped. S e e Chapter 1 f o r explanation of propeller terms, pitch, diam- e t e r , cupped, etc.

For a dual engine installation, t h e next higher pitch propeller may prove t h e mos t sa t is factory condition for water skiing.

2-14 LOWER UNIT

NEVER remove the vent or filler plugs when t h e lower unit is hot. Expanded lubri- can t would be released through t h e plug hole. Check t h e lubricant level a f t e r t h e unit has been allowed t o cool. Add only OMC approved gear lubricant. NEVER use regular automotive- type grease in t h e lower unit, because i t expands and f o a m t o o

Example of a damaged propeller. This unit should have been replaced long before this amount o f damage was sustained.

much. Outboard lower units cb not have provisions t o accommodate such expansion.

Hf the lubricant appears milky brown, indicating t h e presence of water , a check should be made t o determine how t h e wate r entered. If large amounts of lubricant must b e added t o bring t h e lubricant up t o t h e full mark, a thorough inspection should b e m a d e t o find t h e cause of t h e lubricant loss.

Draining Lower Unit The fill/drain plug on Johnson/Evinrude

lower units may b e located towards t h e bottom of the unit on t h e port side, s tarboard side, or on t h e leading edge of t h e lower unit. On many models a Phillips sc rew will be found very close t o t h e fill & drain plug. NEVER remove this Phillips screw because t h e lower unit would t h e n have t o be disassembled in order t o return t h e cradle for t h e shi f t dog back in place.

Remove t h e drain plug and then remove t h e vent plug located just above t h e m t i - cavitat ion plate.

Filling Lower Unit Position t h e drive unit approximately

vertical and without a l ist t o e i ther port or starboard. Insert t h e lubricant tube into t h e FILLIDRAN hole at t h e bottom plug hole,

New propeller ready for installation. A damaged propeller can cause excessive vibration, resulting in failure of more Bxpensive parts. The cost o f rebuilding a propeller must be carefully weighed against the price of a new unit. New propeller costs continually rise, but the labor rate involved in rebuilding is also rising.

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and inject lubricant until the excess begins t o come ou t t h e VENT hole. Install t h e VENT plug f i rs t then replace t h e FILL plug with NEW gaskets. Check t o be su re t h e gaskets a r e proper1 y positioned t o prevent water f rom entering t h e housing. Many t imes some of the gear lubricant is los t during installation of t h e plugs. Therefore, if the vent plug is removed again, and more lubricant added very SLOWLY using a srrall- spout oil can t o allow ai r t o pass out the opening, t h e r e is no doubt but what t h e unit will be filled t o capacity.

For detailed lower unit service procedures, s e e Chapter 8. For lower unit lubrication capacit ies, s e e t h e Appendix.

Repairs and Adjustments For detailed procedures t o disassemble,

clean, assemble, and adjust t h e carburetor , see t h e appropriate section in Chapter 4 for t h e carburetor type on t h e engine being serviced.

2-15 BOAT TESTING

Hook and Rocker Before test ing the boat, check t h e boat

bottom carefully f o r marine growth or evidence of a "hook" or a "rocker" in t h e bottom. Either one of these conditions will great ly reduce perforrnmce.

Perf o m ance Mount t h e motor on t h e boat. I n s t d l t h e

Draining lubricant from the lower unit. The gear oil in the lower unit should be checked on a daily basis during the season of operation. The oil should be drained and replenished with new oil every 100 hours.

remote control cables and check for proper adjustment.

Wake an effor t t o t e s t t h e boat with wha t might be considered an average gross load. The boat should ride on an even keel, without a list to port or starboard. Adjust t h e motor t i l t angle, if necessary, t o permit t h e boat t o r ide slightly higher thaw t h e stern. If heavy supplies a r e stowed a f t of t h e center , t h e bow will b e light and t h e boat will "plane" more efficiently. For this test t h e boat must be operated in a body of water.

Check t h e engine r p n at full throt t le . The rpm should be within t h e Specifications in t h e Appendix. All Oh'C engine model s e r i d n u v b e r identification plates indicate t h e horsepower rating and rpw range f o r t h e engine. If t k rram is not within specified r a g e , a propeller change may be in order. A higher s i t ch p rapd le r will decrease rpm, and a lower pitch propeller will increase rpm.

For maximum low speed engine performance, t h e i d e mixture and t h e idle rpm should be readjusted under actual operating conditions.

Filling the lower unit with new gear oil. Notice the unit filled through the lower plug, but the upper plug MUST be removed to allow trapped air to escape.

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POWERHEAD

3-1 INTRODUCTION

The carburetion and ignition principles of two-cycle engine operation MUST be understood in order t o perform a proper tune- up on an outboard motor. Therefore, i t would be well worth t h e t ime, t o study t h e principles of two-cycle engines, a s outl ined in this section.

A Polaroid, or equivalent instant- type c a m e r a is an ext remely useful i t em providing the means of accurate ly recording t h e ar rangement of pa r t s and wire connections BEFORE t h e disassembly work begins. Such a record is most valuable during t h e assembly work.

Tags a r e handy t o identify wires a f t e r they a r e disconnected t o ensure they will b e connected t o t h e s a m e terminal f rom which they were removed. These t ags may also b e used for par ts where marks or o ther means of identification is not possible.

THEORY OF OPERATION

The two-cycle engine differs in severa l ways from a conventional four-cycle (automobile) engine.

1- The method by which t h e fuel-air mixture is delivered t o t h e combustion chamber. 2- The complete lubrication system. 3- In most cases, t h e ignition system. 4- The frequency of the power stroke.

These differences will be discussed briefly and compared with four-cycle engine operation.

Intake/Exhaust Two-cycle engines uti l ize an arrange-

ment of por t openings to admi t fuel t o t h e combustion chamber and t o purge the exhaust gases a f t e r burning has been completed. The ports a r e located in a precise

pa t t e rn in order for them t o b e open and closed off a t an e x a c t moment by t h e piston a s i t moves up and down in t h e cylinder. The exhaust port is located slightly higher than t h e fuel in take port. This a r rangement opens the exhaust port f i rs t a s the piston s t a r t s downward and therefore , t h e exhaust phase begins a f rac t ion of a second before t h e in take phase.

Actually, t h e in take and exhaust ports a r e spaced so closely together t h a t both open almost simultaneously. For this reason, t h e pistons of most two-cycle engines have a deflector- type top. This design of t h e piston top serves two purposes very ef fec- tively.

DEFLECTOR EXHAUST I n PORT

\A u - K t t V 7- VALVE

INTAKE ' < l NTAKE PORT

l NTAKE

r\ EXHAUST

Drawing to depict the intake and exhaust cycles of a two-cycle engine.

EXHAUST

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3-2 POWERHEAD

First , i t c r e a t e s turbulence when t h e incoming charge of fuel en te r s t h e combustion chamber. This turbulence results in more complete burning of t h e fuel than if t h e piston top were f lat . The second e f f e c t of t h e deflector- type piston crown is t o force the exhaust gases from t h e cylinder more rapidly.

This system of intake and exhaust is in marked contras t t o individual valve arrangement employed on four-cycle engines.

Lubrication A two-cycle engine is lubricated by mix-

ing oil with t h e fuel. Therefore, various par ts a r e lubricated a s the fuel mixture passes through t h e crankcase and t h e cylinder. Four-cycle engines have a crankcase containing oil. This oil is pumped through a circulat ing system and returned t o t h e crankcase t o begin t h e routing again.

Power Stroke The combustion cycle of a two-cycle

engine has four dist inct phases. 1- Intake 2- Compression 3- Power 4- Exhaust Three phases of the cycle a r e accom-

plished with each s t roke of t h e piston, and t h e fourth phase, t h e power s t roke occurs

l N DUC ED LOW AIR

PRESSURE VENTUR l ,

ATMOSPHER I C A I R PRESSURE Air flow principle for a modern carburetor.

with each revolution of t h e crankshaft . Compare this sys tem with a four-cycle engine. A s t roke of t h e piston is required t o accomplish each phase of the cycle and t h e power s t roke occurs on every other revolution of the crankshaft . S ta ted another way, two revolutions of t h e four-cycle engine crankshaf t a r e required t o complete one full cycle, t h e four phases.

Physical Laws The two-cycle engine is able t o function

because of two very simple physical laws. One: Gases will flow from an a r e a of

high pressure t o an a r e a of lower pressure. A t i r e blowout is an example of this principle. The high-pressure a i r escapes rapidly if t h e tube is punctured.

Two: If a gas is compressed into a smaller a rea , t h e pressure increases, and if a g a s expands into a larger a rea , t h e pressure is decreased.

If these two laws a r e kept in mind, t h e operation of t h e two-cycle engine will b e easier understood.

Actual Operation Beginning with t h e piston approaching

top dead cen te r on t h e compression stroke: The in take and exhaust ports a r e closed by t h e piston; t h e reed valve is open; t h e spark plug fires; the compressed fuel-air mixture

Adding OMC approved oil into the fuel tank.

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INTRODUCTION 3-3

is ignited; and t h e power stroke begins. The reed valve was open because a s t h e piston moved upward, t h e crankcase volume increased, which reduced the crankcase pressure t o less than t h e outside atmosphere.

As the piston moves downward on t h e power stroke, the combustion cflamber is filled with burning gases. As t h e exhaust port is uncovered, t h e gases, which a r e under g r e a t pressure, escape rapidly through t h e exhaust ports. The piston continues i t s downward movement. Pressure within t h e crankcase increases, closing t h e reed valves against thei r seats. The crankcase then becomes a sealed chamber. The air-fuel mixture is compressed ready for deiivery t o t h e combustion chamber. As t h e piston continues t o move downward, t h e in take port is uncovered. Fresh fuel rushes through t h e intake por t in to t h e combustion chamber striking the top of the piston where i t is deflected along t h e cylinder wall. The reed valve remains closed until the piston moves up ward again.

When the piston begins t o move upward on t h e compression stroke, t h e reed valve opens because t h e crankcase volume has been increased, reducing crankcase pressure t o less than the outside atmosphere. The intake and exhaust ports a r e closed and t h e f resh fuel charge is compressed inside the combustion chamber.

EXHAUST I PISTON _

\ f i PORT \ i i

l NTAKE ' INTAKE PORT CRANKCASE

l NTAKE COMPRESS ION

Pressure in the crankcase decreases as t h e piston moves upward and a fresh charge of a i r flows through t h e carburetor picking up fuel. As t h e piston approaches top dead cen te r , t h e spark plug ignites t h e air-fuel mixture, t h e power s t roke begins and one complete cycle has been completed.

Cross Fuel Flow Principle OMC pistons a r e a deflector dome type.

The design is necessary t o def lect t h e fuel charge up and around t h e combustion chamber. The f resh fuel mixture enters t h e combustion chamber through t h e intake ports and flows across t h e top of t h e piston. The piston design contributes t o clearing t h e combustion chamber, because t h e incoming fuel pushes the burned gases out t h e exhaust ports.

Loop Scavenging All three-cylinder engine powerheads

have what is commonly known as a loop scavenging system. The piston dome is relatively f l a t on top with just a small amount of crown. Pressurized fuel in the crankcase is forced up through t h e skirt of t h e piston and ou t through irregular shaped openings c u t in t h e skirt. After t h e fuel i s forced out the piston skirt openings i t is transferred upward through long deep grooves molded into t h e cylinder wall. The

FUEL VAPOR EXHAUST PLUG BYPASS A

REED CLOSED ul' , ,

CONNECT l NG ROD

IGN l T ION POWER STROKE EXHAUST Complete piston cycle of a two-cycle engine, depicting intake, power, and exhaust.

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3-4 POWERHEAD

fuel then enters t h e combustion portion of the cylinder and is compressed, a s the piston moves upward.

This particular powerhead does not have intake cover plates, because t h e in take passage is molded into the cylinder wall as described in t h e previous paragraph. There- fore, if these engines a r e being serviced, disregerd t h e sections covering intake cover plates.

Timing The exac t t ime of spark plug firing de-

pends on engine speed. At low speed t h e spark is retarded -- f i res l a te r than when t h e piston is a t or beyond top dead center . Therefore, t h e timing is advanced a s the magneto armature plate advances.

At high speed, the spark is advanced -- f ires earl ier than when t h e piston is a t top dead center .

Procedures for making t h e timing and synchronization adjustment will be found in Chapter 5.

Sum m ary Yore than one ~ h a s e of the cycle occurs

simultaneously during operation of a two- cycle engine. Cn the downward stroke, power occurs above t h e piston while t h e ports a re closed. When t h e ports open, exhaust begins and in take follows. Below

Drawing to depict fuel flow of the "loop charge" while the piston is on the down stroke.

t h e piston, f resh air-fuel mixture is compressed in t h e crankcase.

On t h e upward stroke, exhaust and in- t a k e continue a s long as t h e ports a r e open. Compression begins when t h e ports a r e closed and continues until t h e spark plug ignites t h e air-fuel mixture. Below the piston, a fresh air-fuel mixture is drawn into t h e crankcase ready t o be compressed during t h e next cycle.

3-2 CHAPTER ORGANIZATION

This chapter is divided into 23 main service sections. Each section covers a particular a r e a of service and outlines comple te instructions f o r t h e work t o be performed. Because of the many countless number of outboard units in t h e field, i t would be impractical and almost impossible t o give detailed procedures fo r removal and installation of each bolt, carburetor , s tar t- e r , and o ther "buildup" type units.

Therefore, the sections, for t h e particular powerhead work t o be performed, begin with the preliminary access tasks completed. As an example, disassembly of t h e powerhead begins with t h e necessary hood, cowling, and accessories, removed.

The information is presented in a logical

Drawing to depict the exhaust leaving the cylinder and fuel entering through the three ports in the piston.

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DISASSEMBLING 3-5

sequence f o r c o m p l e t e powerhead overhaul . The ins t ruc t ions can b e fol lowed genera l ly f o r a lmos t any s i ze horsepower engine. In r a r e cases, where t h e procedures d i f fer depending on t h e model being serv iced , s epa r- ate s t eps a r e included. One example i s t h e t h r e e d i f f e ren t types of c r anksha f t instal la- tions.

The i l lustrat ions accompanying t h e t e x t a r e f r o m d i f f e ren t s i ze units and t h e cap- t ions c lear ly ident i fy which model i s covered.

Exploded drawings, showing principle parts , f o r t h e various s i ze powerheads a r e included at t h e end of t h e chap te r .

Special tools may b e ca l led o u t in ce r- ta in instances. These tools ALWAYS m a k e t h e job eas ier and wi th less risk of damaging expensive parts . Tools may be purchased froin loca l Johnson/Evinrude dea l e r s o r direc t ly f rom Custo iner Serv ices D e p a r t m e n t , Outboard Marine Corpora t ion (OMC), Wau- kegan, IL, 60085. If n o t posssible t o o rde r , special make- shif t i t e m s may b e necessary.

The chap te r ends wi th Break-in Proce- dures, Sec t ion 3-25, t o b e pe r fo rmed a f t e r t h e pov~erhead has been assembled, a l l accessories instal led, and t h e powerhead mounted on t h e exhaus t housing.

Torque Values All torque values mus t b e m e t when t h e y

a r e specified. Wany of t h e outboard cast- i n T and Qthe r pa r t s a r e m a l e of aluminum. The to rque values a r e ~ i v e n t o p reven t s t r e t c h i n s t h e bolts, hu t m o r e impor t an t ly t o p r o t e c t t h e th reads in t h e aluminum. I t i s ex t r eme ly impor t an t t o t iphten t h e connect ing rods t o t h e proper torqr-le value t o ensure proper service. The head bolts a r e prohably t h e nex t p o s t ia rpor tant t o r q u e value.

Powerhead Componen t s Serv ice ps&pcedtares for t h e ca rbu re to r s ,

fuel pumps, s t a r t e r , and o t h e r powerhead comnonents a r e piven in the i r r e spec t ive c t a p t e r s of this manual. See t b e Table of tnontents.

Reed Instal lat ion All reeds on 3nbnson/F vinrude engines

coverecl in th is mmrral a r e installed just behind t h e carburetcar behind t h e i n t z k e !--?!-if old.

Cleanliness Make a de te rmined e f f o r t t o k e e p p a r t s

and t h e work a r e a as c lean as possible. P a r t s MUST b e c l eaned and thoroughly inspec ted be fo re t h e y a r e assembled, installed, o r adjusted. Use proper lubr icants , o r t he i r equivalent , whenever t h e y a r e recommended.

K e e p rods and rod caps toge the r as a set t o ensure t h e y will b e instal led as a pair and i n t h e proper sequence.

Needle bear ings MUST r ema in as a com- p le t e set. NEVER mix needles f r o m o n e set wi th another . If only o n e needle is damag- e d , t h e c o m p l e t e set MUST b e replaced.

3-3 POW ERHEAD DISASSEMBLING

Pre l iminary Work You m a y e l e c t t o fol low t h e p r a c t i c e of

many professional mechanics by tak ing a se r i e s sf photographs of t h e engine wi th t h e f lywheel removed: o n e f r o m t h e top, and a couple f rom t h e s ides showing t h e wiring and a r r angemen t of parts .

~ e f o r e t h e powerhead c a n be disassembl- e d , t h e b a t t e r y m u s t be disconnected; fue l l ines d isconnected; and t h e ca rbu re to r , gen- e r a t o r , a l t e r n a t o r , s t a r t e r , f lywheel , and ignition components , a l l removed. If in doubt as t o how these i t ems a r e t o b e removed, r e f e r t o t h e appropr i a t e chap te r . A f t e r t h e acces so r i e s have been removed, r e m o v e t h e bol t s in t h e f r o n t and r e a r of t h e powerhead secur ing t h e powerhead t o t h e exhaus t housing. L i f t t h e powerhead f r ee .

Cleaning the piston while they remain in the powerhead. The pistons should be carefully inspected for burned areas and the cylinder walls checked for scoring.

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3-6 POWERHEAD

Cylinder block water passages corroded,preventing proper circulation of coolant water.

BAD NEWS I i the unit is several years old, or if i t

has been operated in sa l t water , or has not had proper maintenance, or shelter , or any number of o ther factors , then separating t h e powerhead f rom t h e exhaust housing may not be a simple task. An a i r hammer may be required on t h e studs t o shake t h e corrosion loose; heat may have t o be applied t o t h e casting t o expand i t slightly; or o ther devices employed in order t o remove t h e powerhead. One very serious condition would be t h e driveshaft "frozen11 with t h e crankshaft. In this case, a circular plug- type hole must be drilled and a torch used t o c u t t h e driveshaft. Let's assume t h e powerhead will come f r e e on t h e f i rs t a t t empt .

The following procedures pickup t h e work a f t e r these preliminary tasks have been completed.

3-4 HEAD SERVICE Usually the headis is removed and an ex-

amination of t h e cylinders made t o determine the ex ten t of overhaul required. Wow- ever , if t h e headis has not been removed, back ou t all of the head bolts and l i f t the head/s f r e e of t h e powerhead.

A therinostat is installed in t h e head of a l l 3-cylinder engines. On V 4 engines, the therinostat i s installed in a Bakelite housing between the two heads just below the exhaust housing plate. The thermosta t has th ree parts , a top, middle, and bottom. A hose connects t h e thermosta t with each head. In addition t o the thermosta t , the engine has a thermosta t bypass valve. These i tems a r e easily removed, inspected and cleaned.

Normally, if a thermosta t is not functioning properly, i t is almost always s tuck in

V 4 engine thermostat housing with the relief valve under the light spring ( l e f t ) and thermostat under the heavy spring (right). I f the springs should accidently be reversed, the relief valve would fail to open.

t h e open position. An engine operating at too low a tempera tu re is almost as much a problem a s an engine running too hot.

Therefore, during a major overhaul, good shop practice d ic ta tes t o replace t h e thermosta t and eliminate this a rea a s a possible problem at a la te r date .

Lay a piece of f ine sandpaper or emory paper on a f l a t surface (such a s a piece of glass) with the abrasive side facing up. With t h e machined f a c e of t h e head on t h e sandpaper, move the head in a circular motion t o dress t h e surface. This procedure will also indicate any "high" or "low" spots.

Check t h e spark plug opening/s t o be sure the threads a r e not damaged. Most marine dealers can insert a heli-coil into a spark plug opening if t h e threads have been damaged.

On many engines, a sending unit is instal led in the head t o warn t h e operator if

Thermostat installation on a three-cylinder engine. Both springs are the same weight and control the relief valves.

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REED SERVICE 3-7

The head on the l e f t is used on the 50 hp 1958 and 1959 engines. The head on the right is used on the 75 hp and later engines. The head on the right has a built-in water jacket, the head on the le f t does not.

t h e engine begins t o run too hot. The l ight on t h e dash can be checked by turning t h e ignition switch t o t h e ON position, and t h e n ground the wire t o the sending unit. The light should come on. If i t does not, replace the bulb and repeat the tes t . On la te r model engines t h e light was replaced with a horn mounted in t h e shift box. This horn sounds if t h e engine overheats.

Head installation procedures a r e given in Section 3-24, Head Installation.

3-5 REED SERVICE

DESCRIPTION

Fuel Delivery The fuel delivery may be one of several

types. All three-cylinder engines a r e equipped with th ree carburetors, one for each cylinder. On early model V 4 engines a

A three-cylinder head ( l e f t ) and a V 4 head (right). The water temperature sending unit wire is identified.

A three-cylinder engine block with the labyrinth s e d s to hold pressure and vacuum within each cylinder.

single carburetor with double barrels was used, each barrel serving two cylinders. On l a t e r model V 4 engines, two carburetors, each with double barrels, were installed, each barrel serving a single cylinder.

Cylinder Sealing The three-cylinder engines covered in

th is manual a r e equipped with an upper seal and bearing, a lower seal and bearing, and t w o main bearings between. A labyrinth seal is used at t h e two cen te r main bearings and just above t h e bottom seal , t o provide an e f fec t ive seal between t h e cylinders.

On t h e V4 engines covered in th is manual, a top and bottom seal is used with sealing rings around t h e crankshaft in t h e cen te r between each cylinder, in each bank, t o seal fo r pressure and vacuum. The ear ly model V4 engines had a "two-ringn crankshaft . La te r models incorporated a "three- ring" crankshaft. Still l a t e r models have a "six-ring" arrangement, which eliminates t h e necessity of having the labyrinth seals. I t is not possible t o exchange a two-ring crankshaft for a three-ring crankshaft or t h e o ther way around. The s a m e type crankshaft must ALWAYS be installed as a replacement.

V 4 engine block with sealing rings to hold pressure and vacuum within each cylinder.

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3-8 PO WERHEAD

Reed Arrangement On a four-cylinder powerhead, four se t s

of reeds a r e installed, one for each cylinder. On a three-cylinder engine, th ree se ts of reeds a r e used. These reeds a r e t o b e installed on a reed plate with a reed box. Fuel is delivered t o t h e reeds a s described in t h e paragraph above, Fuel Delivery. The reed arrangement operates in much t h e s a m e manner a s the reed in a saxophone or other wind instrument. At rest , t h e reed is closed and seals the opening t o which i t is at tached. In t h e case of an outboard engine, this opening is between t h e crankcase and t h e carburetor. The reeds a r e mounted in t h e intake manifold, just behind t h e carburetor.

Actual Operation The piston c rea tes vacuum and pressure

in the crankcase a s i t moves up and down in the cylinder. As the piston moves upward, a vacuum is c rea ted in t h e crankcase. This vacuum "lifts" t h e reed off i t s seat, allowing fuel t o pass. On t h e compression s t roke, when the piston moves downward, pressure is created and t h e reed is forced closed.

GOOD WORDS - A TIP When servicing a 50 hp -- 1958 or 1959

engine, reed boxes sold for t h e 75 hp powerhead may be purchased and used. These new reeds will help conserve a considerable amount of fuel. The corners of t h e reed box must be rounded slightly t o permit i t t o seat properly in t h e block, a s shown in t h e accompanying illustration.

' INTAKE PORT A

ABOUT TO OPEN

FUEL IN CRANKCASE

EXHAUST PORT

I N CRANKCASE

EXHAUST - -

Diagram to illustrate operation of a two-cycle outboard engine.

Reed box assembly mounted on the reed plate showing the four reeds used on the 75 hp and later model engines.

Reed Designs A wide range of reed boxes may be

found on an outboard unit, due t o t h e varying designs of the engines. All installations employ t h e s a m e principle and t h e r e is no difference in thei r operation.

Broken Reed A broken reed is usually caused by metal

fa t igue over a long period of time. The failure may al-so be due t o t h e reed flexing too f a r because t h e reed stop has not been adjusted properly or t h e s top has become distorted. If t h e reed is broken, t h e loose

engines.

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piece MUST be located and removed, before t h e engine is returned t o service. The piece of reed may have found i t s way in to the crankcase, in to t h e passage leading t o t h e cylinder, or in t h e cylinder. If t h e broken piece cannot be located, t h e powerhead must be completely disassembled until i t is located and removed.

An excellent check for a broken reed on an operating engine is t o hold an ordinary business card approximately 2" (9.08 cm) in f ron t of t h e carburetor. Under normal operating conditions, a very small amount of f ine mist will be noticeable, but if fuel begins t o appear rapidly on t h e card f rom t h e carburetor, one of t h e reeds is broken and causing the backflow through t h e carburetor and onto t h e card.

A broken reed will cause the engine t o opera te roughly and with a "pop" back through the carburetor.

Reed Stops If t h e reed stops have become distorted,

t h e most e f fec t ive correct ive action is t o replace the complete reed box a s an assembly, Illustration 81 and f 2.

Reed to Reed Box Check The specified clearance of t h e reed f rom

t h e base plate, when t h e reed is at rest , i s 0.010" (0.254 mm) at the t ip of the reed, Illustration #3.

An a l t e rna te method of checking t h e reed clearance is t o hold t h e reed up t o t h e sunlight and look through t h e back side. Some ai r space should be visible, but not a g rea t amount. If in doubt, check t h e reed at t h e t ip with a feeler gauge. The maximum clearance should not exceed 0.010" (0.254 mm). If t h e clearance is excessive, t h e reed box must be replaced a s a complete assembly

REED SERjrlCE 3-9

!\

1-

BROKEN REED VALVE

i

The reeds must NEVER be turned over in an a t t e m p t t o cor rec t a problem. Such action would cause the reed t o f lex in the opposite direction and t h e reed would break in a very short t ime.

V-Type Reed Boxes As the name implies, these reed boxes

a r e shaped in a "\I" with a set of reeds and stops on both a rms of the "V". If a problem develops with this type reed box, t h e comple te assembly MUST be replaced -- reeds, box, and stops. The assembly may be purchased a s a complete unit and t h e cost will usually not exceed t h e t ime, e f fo r t , and problems encountered in an a t t e m p t t o replace only one part.

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3- 10 POWERHEAD

CLEANING AND SERVICE

Always handle t h e reeds wi th t h e u t m o s t care . Rough t r e a t m e n t will resu l t in t h e reeds becoming d is tor ted and will a f f e c t t h e i r performance.

Wash t h e r eeds in solvent , and blow t h e m dry with compressed a i r f r o m t h e BACK SIDE ONLY. Do not blow a i r through t h e reed f r o m t h e f r o n t side. Such ac t ion would cause t h e reed t o open and f ly up agains t t h e reed stop. Wipe t h e f r o n t of t h e r e e d d ry wi th a l in t f r e e cloth.

C lean t h e reed box thoroughly by removing a n y old gaske t mater ia l .

Secu re t h e reed blocks t o t h e reed p l a t e wi th t h e screws t ightened t o t h e to rque value given in t h e Appendix.

Check for chipped o r broken reeds. Ob- s e r v e t h a t t h e reeds a r e not preloaded o r s tanding open. Sa t i s f ac to ry r eeds will not adhe re t o t h e reed block su r f ace , but s t i l l t h e r e is not m o r e than 0.010" (0.254 m m ) c l ea rance be tween t h e reed and t h e block sur face .

Check t h e reed loca t ion over t h e r eed block, or p l a t e openings, t o b e su re t h e r e e d i s centered .

The r eed assembl ies a r e t hen ready f o r instal lat ion.

REED ASSEMBLING

Position a NEW gaske t in p lace on t h e reed p la te , I l lustrat ion /14. Install t h e r e e d box t o t h e reed p la te by threading t h e sc rews through t h e reed p l a t e f r o m t h e back s ide and in to t h e r eed box. For ins ta l la t ion of t h e reed box t o t h e powerhead, see Sect ion 3-23.

3-6 BYPASS COVERS

cove r s p r o t e c t t h e a r e a t h e fue l t r ave l s f r o m t h e c rankcase up t h e s ide of t h e pow- e r h e a d and i n t o t h e cylinder.

Seldom does a bypass cove r c a u s e a n y problem.

During a normal overhaul , t h e bypass cove r s should b e removed, c leaned, and new gaske t s instal led, I l lustrat ion 55. Identify t h e cove r s t o ensure ins ta l la t ion in t h e s a m e loca t ion f rom which t h e y a r e removed. This ident i f ica t ion is impor t an t because t h e fue l pump or s t a r t e r solenoid m a y b e a t t a c h e d t o t h e bypass cove r . INSTALLATION

Procedures t o instal l t h e bypass cove r s t o t h e powerhead will b e found in Sec t ion 3- 22, Exhaust Cover and Bypass Cover Instal- lat ion.

3-7 EXHAUST COVER

The exhaus t covers a r e one of t h e mos t neglec ted i t e m s on any outboard engine. Seldom a r e t h e y checked and serviced. Many t i m e s a n engine m a y b e overhauled and r e tu rned t o se rv i ce wi thout t h e exhaus t covers e v e r having been removed.

The exhaus t manifold is l oca t ed on t h e por t s ide of three- cylinder engines, Illustra- t ion 376. On V4 engines, t h e exhaus t mani- fo ld is l oca t ed at t h e r e a r of t h e powerhead be tween t h e t w o cylinder heads, I l lustrat ion 87.

On three-cylinder engines t h e powerhead does n o t con ta in bypass covers . T h e bypass

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EXHAUST COVER 3- 1 1

One reason the exhaust covers a r e not removed is because t h e at taching bolts usually become corroded in place. This means they a re very difficult t o remove, but t h e work should be done. Hea t applied t o t h e bolt head and around t h e exhaust cover will help in removal. However, some bolts may still be broken. If t h e bolt is broken i t must be drilled ou t and t h e hole tapped with new threads.

The exhaust covers a r e installed over t h e exhaust ports t o allow t h e exhaust t o leave t h e powerhead and be transferred t o t h e exhaust housing. If t h e cover was t h e only i t e m over the exhaust ports, they would become so hot from t h e exhaust gases t h e y might cause a f i re or a person would be severely burned if they c a m e in con tac t with the cover.

Therefore, an inner plate is installed t o help dissipate t h e exhaust heat , Illustration 8 . Two gaskets a r e installed -- one on e i ther side of the inner plate. Water is channeled to circulate between t h e exhaust cover and t h e inner plate. This circulating water cools t h e exhaust cover and prevents i t from becoming a hazard.

A thorough cleaning of t h e inner p la te behind the exhaust covers should b e - per- gases. Air passing through t h e baffle heats formed during a major engine overhaul. If t h e choke and allows t h e choke t o open as t h e integri ty of t h e exhaust cover assembly engine t empera tu re rises. is in doubt, replace t h e inner plate.

On powerheads equipped with t h e heat/- e lec t r i c choke, a baffle is installed on t h e inside surface of the inner plate. This ba f f l e is heated from t h e engine exhaust

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3- 12 POWERHEAD

CLEANING

Clean any gasket material from the cover and inner plate surfaces. Check t o be sure the water passages in t h e cover and plate a re clean t o permit adequate passage of cooling water.

Inspect the inlet and ou t le t holes in the powerhead t o be sure they a r e clean and f r e e of corrosion. The openings in the powerhead may be cleaned with a small s ize screwdriver.

Clean t h e a r e a around the exhaust ports and in t h e webs running up t o t h e exhaust ports. Carbon has a habit of forming in this area.

INSTALLATION

Procedures t o install the exhaust covers will be found in Section 3-22, Exhaust Cover and Bypass Cover Installation.

3-8 T O P SEAL

On ear ly model engines, t h e top seal maintains vacuum and pressure in t h e crankcase at the top cylinder. Engineering changes installed e x t r a rings around t h e crankshaft t o seal the crankcase. On these engines t h e top seal simply prevents oil f rom escaping around the bearing.

REMOVAL V4 ENGINE

Remove the bolts securing t h e upper c a p in place. CAREFULLY work t h e bearing

c a p up and f r e e of t h e block. Drive t h e seal from t h e bearing c a p using a punch and hammer. Remove t h e O-rings from the outside edge of t h e bearing cap.

REMOVAL THREE-CYLINDER ENGINE

In order t o replace t h e top seal on t h e three-cylinder engine, t h e crankcase cover must be removed, t h e crankshaft raised, and t h e top bearing removed, before the seal can be removed. See section 3-18 t o accomplish this task.

ASSEMBLING V4 ENGINES

Install a NEW seal in to t h e bearing cap, with t h e hard side facing UP, Illustration 379. Position a NEW O-ring in place around t h e bearing cap, Illustration #lo. C o a t t h e 0- ring with oil. Set the assembly aside for l a te r installation, s e e Section 3- 18.

3-9 BOTTOM SEAL

The bottom seal has equal importance as t h e top seal. This seal is installed t o maintain vacuum and pressure in t h e lower half of t h e crankcase fo r t h e lower cylinder.

Two types of lower seals a r e used on t h e engines covered in th is manual. One type, used on t h e V 4 engines, has a quadrant ring, O-ring, spring, and an E-clip. The other type is installed on three-cylinder engines and l a t e model V 4 engines. This type seal i s mounted in the lower bearing cap.

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BOTTOM SEAL 3- 13

Seal M o u n t e d on t h e C r a n k s h a f t V4 Engines , 1958 t h r u 1968

This b o t t o m s e a l p r e v e n t s e x h a u s t f u m e s f r o m e n t e r i n g t h e c r a n k c a s e , a n d ho lds pres- s u r e a n d vacuum inside. T h e s e a l c o n s i s t s of a q u a d r a n t r ing, O- r ing , r e t a i n e r w a s h e r , sp r ing , a n o t h e r w a s h e r , a n d a s n a p ring.

R e m o v a l T o r e m o v e t h i s sea l f r o m t h e l o w e r e n d

of t h e c r a n k s h a f t , use a pair of T r u a r c p l i e r s a n d C A R E F U L L Y r e m o v e t h e s n a p ring. T A K E C A R E not t o l o s e a n y of t h e p a r t s d u e t o t h e spr ing p r e s s u r e a g a i n s t t h e s n a p ring. N o t i c e how t h e q u a d r a n t O- r ing f i t s ins ide t h e s e a l , I l lus t ra t ion /ill. This r ing i s a l so removable . O b s e r v e how t h e q u a d r a n t r ing h a s a ra i sed e d g e on o n e s ide , I l lus t ra- t ion 1712. This r a i s e d e d g e MUST f a c e upward when t h e sea l is ins ta l l ed .

IN SPECTION

C h e c k t o b e s u r e t h e spr ing h a s good tension. C h e c k t o b e s u r e t h e w a s h e r s a r e n o t d i s t o r t e d . T h e q u a d r a n t O- ring should b e D I S C A R D E D and a new o n e ins ta l l ed .

Good s h o p p r a c t i c e d i c t a t e s t h e q u a d r a n t O- ring s e a l b e r e p l a c e d e a c h t i m e t h e l o w e r s e a l i s s e r v i c e d .

C h e c k t h e g r o o v e in t h e l o w e r e n d of t h e c r a n k s h a f t w h e r e t h e T r u a r c r ing f i t s . If t h e g r o o v e is not c l e a n , t h e r ing will s n a p

o u t a n d t h e l o w e r s e a l i n g q u a l i t i e s will b e los t . If t h e g r o o v e is bad ly c o r r o d e d , t h e c r a n k s h a f t m u s t b e r e p l a c e d . F o r ins ta l l a- t ion p r o c e d u r e s , see S e c t i o n 3-21.

Seal I n s t a l l e d i n B e a r i n g C a p V4 E n g i n e s 1969 t h r u 1971

T h e sea l on t h e s e e n g i n e s is i n s t a l l e d ins ide t h e l o w e r b e a r i n g c a p . I t s f u n c t i o n i s t h e s a m e a s t h e s e a l on t h e o t h e r V 4 e n g i n e s just c o v e r e d . T h e s e a l p r e v e n t s e x h a u s t f u m e s f r o m e n t e r i n g t h e c r a n k c a s e , a n d holds p r e s s u r e and v a c u u m inside.

R e m o v a l If t h e sea l is t o b e r e p l a c e d w i t h o u t

o v e r h a u l i n g t h e p o u 3 e r h e a d , p r o c e e d a s f ol- 1 ows:

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3- 14 POWERHEAD

Remove the outside perimeter bolts on t h e bearing cap. Remove t h e four bolts closer t o the crankshaft. Use a pair of screwdrivers and work t h e bearing c a p f r e e of the lower bearing. Remove t h e O-rings f rom t h e outside edge of t h e bearing cap. Use a punch and drive the seal out of the bearing cap.

Install the new seal with t h e hard side DOWN, Illustration 1/13. Drive t h e seal in to place using t h e cor rec t s ize socket and a hammer. Install t h e outside O-rings around t h e cap, Illustration f14. If t h e powerhead is t o be overhauled, s e t t h e assembly aside for la ter installation.

If the powerhead is not t o be overhauled, see installation procedures in Section 3- 18.

Seal in a Cap All Three-cylinder Engines

The seal on these engines is installed in a cap. The c a p is bolted t o t h e bottom of t h e powerhead. The four bolts securing t h e c a p

must be removed before t h e crankcase cover can be removed. The seal can be punched o u t and new ones installed without difficulty. Remove t h e O-rings from t h e cap.

If t h e powerhead is not t o be overhauled, install t h e seal with t h e hard side DOWN. Drive the seal and O-ring into place using t h e correct size socket and hammer, Illus- t ra t ion #15. Align t h e holes in t h e c a p with t h e holes in t h e powerhead. Secure t h e c a p in place with t h e a t taching bolts.

If t h e powerhead is t o be overhauled, s e e Section 3-21 t o install the bottom seal and cap.

3-10 CEI\FTERING PINS

All Johnson/Evinr ude outboard engines have at least one, and in most cases two, centering pins installed through t h e crankcase cover. These pins index in to matching holes in the powerhead block when the crankcase cover is installed. These pins cen te r the crankcase cover on t h e powerhead block.

The centering pins a r e tapered. The pins must be carefully checked t o determine how they a r e t o be removed from the cover, Illustration f 16 In most cases t h e pin is removed by using a center punch and tapping t h e pin towards t h e carburetor or in take manif old side of t h e crankcase.

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CRANKCASE BOLTS 3- 15

When removing a centering ;:Q. hold t h e punch securely onto the pin head, then s t r ike t h e punch a good hard forceful blow. DO NOT keep beating on t h e end of the pin, because such action would round t h e pin head until i t would not be possible t o drive i t out of t h e cover.

Centering pins a re t h e f i r s t i tem t o be installed in t h e cover when replacing t h e crankcase cover.

3-11 MAIN BEARING BOLTS AND CRANKCASE SIDE BOLTS

The main bearing bolts a r e installed through t h e crankcase cover in to t h e powerhead block. Most engines have two bolts installed fo r t h e top main bearing, two f o r the center main bearing, and two for t h e lower main bearing.

In many cases the upper and lower main bearing bolts a r e DIFFERENT lengths. Therefore, t a k e t i m e t o t ag and identify t h e bolts t o ensure they will be installed in t h e s a m e location from which they were removed.

The crankcase side bolts a r e installed along t h e edge of t h e crankcase cover t o secure the cover t o the cylinder block. INSTALLATION These bolts usually have a 7/ 16" head and all must be removed before t h e crankcase cov- Main bearing bolt and t h e crankcase side er can be removed. Remove t h e crankcase bolt installation is given in Section 3-20, side bolts, Illustration f17. Cylinder Block Assembling, under Main

Remove t h e main bearing bolts. Two Bearing and Crankcase Side Bolt Installa- bolts installed in the center a r e behind t h e tion. reeds. Normally these two a r e not ac tual ly bolts, but Allen head screws. All six main bearing bolts must be removed before t h e crankcase cover can be removed, Illustra-

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3- 16 POWERHEAD

3-12 CRANKCASE COVER ALL ENGINES

REMOVAL

Remove all bolts securing t h e upper bearing cap and all bolts securing t h e lower bearing c a p in place, if this has not been done. If t h e engine being serviced is an older V 4 model, t h e Truarc snap ring and lower seal must also be removed.

After all side bolts and main bearing bolts have been removed, use a soft-headed mallet and t a p on the bottom side of t h e crankshaft. A sof t , hollow sound should b e heard indicating t h e cover has broken loose from t h e crankcase. If th is sound is not heard, check t o be sure al l t h e side bolts and main bearing bolts have been removed. NEVER pry between t h e cover and t h e crankcase or t h e cover will surely be distorted. If t h e cover is distorted, i t will fai l t o make a proper seal when i t is installed. Such an installation would damage both crankcase halves and render them unfit f o r service -- an expensive replacement.

Once t h e crankshaft has been tapped, a s described, and the proper sound heard, t h e cover will be jarred loose and may be removed.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

Wash t h e cover with solvent, and t h e n dry i t thoroughly. Check t h e mating surface t o t h e cylinder block for damage t h a t m a y a f f e c t t h e seal.

Rod and rod cap with the two alignment dimples shown.

Inspect the sealing ring grooves at t h e center main bearing a r e a t o be sure they a r e clean and not damaged in any manner, Illus- t ra t ion #20.

INSTALLATION

Installation procedures for t h e crankcase cover a r e given in Section 3-19, Crankcase Cover Installation.

3-13 CONNECTING RODS AND PISTONS

The connecting rods and thei r rod caps a r e a MATCHED set. They absolutely MUST be identified, kept, and installed as a set. Under no circumstances should t h e connecting rod and caps b e interchanged. There- fore , on a multiple piston engine, TAKE TIME AND CARE t o t a g each rod and rod cap; t o keep them together a s a s e t while t h e y a r e on t h e bench; and t o install them into t h e s a m e cylinder f rom which t h e y were removed as a set.

The connecting rod and i t s c a p a r e manufactured as a set --as a single unit. A f t e r t h e complete rod and c a p have been made, two holes a r e drilled through t h e side of t h e c a p and rod, and t h e c a p is then f ractured from t h e rod. Therefore, t h e cap must always be installed with i t s original rod. The c a p half of t h e break can ONLY be matched with the o ther half of the break on t h e ORIGINAL rod, Illustration #21.

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RODS AND PISTONS 3- 17

Inspect the rod and t h e rod c a p before removing t h e c a p f rom t h e crankshaft. Un- der normal conditions, a line or a dot is visible on t h e side of t h e rod and t h e cap. This identification is an assist t o assemble t h e parts together and in t h e proper location.

Observe into the block and notice how t h e rods have a "trough". Also notice t h e hole in the rod near where the wrist pin passes through t h e piston. There is a remote possibility t h e rod may have a hole in t h e rod at t h e crank end. These two holes MUST ALWAYS f a c e toward t h e UPPER end of t h e powerhead during installation.

REMOVAL

To remove t h e rod bolts f rom the cap, i t is recommended t o loosen each bolt just a l i t t l e at-a- time and a l ternate ly , Illustration #22. This procedure will prevent one bolt f rom being completely removed while t h e other is still tightened t o i t s recommended torque value. Such action may very likely warp t h e cap.

Remove the bolts as described in t h e previous paragraph, and then CAREFULLY remove t h e rod cap.

Remove t h e needle bearings and cages f rom around t h e crankshaft , Illustration #23. Count t h e needle bearings and insert them into a separate container -- one container f o r each rod, with t h e container clearly identified t o ensure they will b e installed with t h e proper rod at t h e crankshaft journal from which they were removed.

Tap t h e piston out of t h e cylinder f rom t h e crankshaft side. Immediately a t t a c h t h e proper rod cap t o t h e rod and hold i t in place with t h e rod bolts, Illustration #24. The f e w minutes involved in securing t h e c a p with the rod will ensure t h e matched cap remains with i t s mating rod during t h e cleaning and assembling work.

Fill t h e piston ski r t with a rag, towel, shop cloths, or o the r suitable material , Illus- t ra t ion #25. The rag will prevent t h e rod from coming in con tac t with the piston skirt while the piston is laying on the bench or being handled. The rod striking the skirt could cause damage.

Identify the rod t o ensure i t will b e installed in to t h e cylinder f rom which i t was removed.

Remove and identify t h e other rod caps, needle bearings and cages, and rods with pistons, in t h e s a m e manner.

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3 18 PO WERHEAD

Remove t h e rings f rom t h e pistons. This -

is accomplished by placing t h e rod in a vise with t h e piston skirt resting on t h e t o p surface of the vise. Expand each ring with your f ingers or a pair of reverse pliers enough t o slip t h e ring f r e e of t h e piston, Illustration f 26.

DISASSEMBLY

Before separating the piston from t h e rod, notice t h e location of t h e piston in relation t o t h e rod. Observe t h e hole in t h e rod trough on one side of t h e rod near t h e wrist pin opening. Some piston assemblies have another hole at t h e lower end. These holes must f ace toward t h e TOP of t h e engine during installation.

Slanted Piston V4 Engines Only Observe t h e slanted edge and t h e sharp

edge of the dome-type piston. The slanted edge MUST f a c e toward t h e exhaust side of t h e cylinder and- t h e sharp edge toward t h e in take side during installation, Illustration 127.

Loop-C harged Pistons Three-Cylinder Engines Only

If servicing a t hree-cylinder loop-charg- e d powerhead, carefully observe t h e hole in t h e rod near t h e wrist pin and t h e relationship of t h e irregular cutouts in t h e piston skirt, Illustration f28. Only in this position will this relationship exist. The rod and piston MUST be assembled in th is manner o r t h e engine will run VERY poorly.

When t h e rod is installed t o t h e piston, t h e relationship of the rod can only be one way. The rod holes must f a c e upward and t h e piston must f a c e as described in the previous paragraph.

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RODS AND PISTONS 3-19

HOLE

@ All Engines

Observe into t h e piston skirt. On most model pistons, notice t h e "Ln s tamped on t h e boss through which the wrist pin passes. The l e t t e r mark identif ies t h e "loose" side of t h e piston and indicates t h e side of t h e piston from which t h e wrist pin must b e driven out without damaging t h e piston. Some pistons may have t h e full word "LOOSE" s tamped on t h e inside of t h e piston skirt, Illustration 1/29.

If t h e piston does not have t h e "L" or t h e word "LOOSE" stamped, t h e wrist pin m a y be driven o u t in e i ther direction.

Remove t h e retaining clips f rom each end of the wrist pin. Some clips a r e spring wire type and may be worked f r e e of t h e piston using a screwdriver, Illustration #30. Other model pistons have a Truarc snap ring. This type of ring can only be successfully removed using a pair of Truarc pliers, Illustration #31.

I t may be necessary t o hea t t h e piston in a container of boiling water, Illustration #32, in order t o press t h e wrist pin free.

Place t h e piston- in an arbor press using the PROPER size cradle for t h e piston being serviced, and with t h e LOOSE side of t h e piston facing UPWARD.

The wrist pin must be driven out FROM t h e loose side. This m a y not seem reasonable, but the re is a very simple explanation. By placing t h e piston in t h e arbor press cradle with the t ight side down, and the arbor ram pushing f rom t h e loose side, t h e piston has good support and will not be distorted. If t h e piston is placed in t h e arbor press with t h e loose side down, t h e piston would be distorted and unfit f o r fu r the r service.

Many rods have a wrist pin bearing. Some a r e caged bearings and others a r e not. TAKE CARE not t o lose any of t h e bearings when the wrist pin is driven f r e e of the piston.

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3-20 POWERHEAD

Alternate Removal Method If t h e piston does not have t h e "Ln or t h e

word "LOOSE" stamped, t h e wrist pin may be driven o u t in e i ther direction.

Remove the retaining clips from each end of t h e wrist pin. Some clips a r e spring wire type and may be worked f r e e of t h e piston using a screwdriver. Other model pistons have a Truarc snap ring. This type of ring can only be successfully removed using a pair of Truarc pliers.

It may be necessary t o heat t h e piston in a container of boiling water in order t o press t h e wrist pin f ree .

If an arbor press or cradle is not available, proceed as follows: heat t h e piston in a container of very hot water for about t en minutes (heating t h e piston will cause t h e metal t o expand ever so slightly, but ease t h e task of driving t h e pin out); assume a si t t ing position in a chair, on a box, whatever. Next, lay a couple towels over your legs. Hold your legs tightly together t o form a cradle fo r t h e piston above your knees. Set the piston between your legs with t h e LOOSE side of t h e piston facing upward, Illustration 833. Now, drive t h e wrist pin f r e e using a drif t pin with a shoulder. The dr i f t pin will f i t in to t h e hole

through t h e wrist pin and t h e shoulder will ride on t h e edge of t h e wrist pin. Use sharp hard blows with a hammer. Your legs will absorb the shock without damaging t h e piston. If th is method is used on a regular basis during t h e busy season, your legs will develop black-and-blue areas, but no problem, the marks will disappear in a few days.

ROD INSPECTION AND SERVICE

All rods for engines covered in this manual have needle bearings. The needles should be replaced anyt ime a major overhaul is performed. I t is not necessary t o replace t h e cages, but a complete NEW se t of needles should be purchased and installed.

Place each connecting rod on a surface plate and check t h e alignment. If light can b e seen under any portion of t h e machined surfaces, or if t h e rod has a slight wobble on t h e plate, or if a 0.002" (.05 mm) feeler gauge can be inserted between t h e machined surface and the surface plate, t h e rod is bent and unfit fo r fur ther service.

Inspect the connecting rod bearings for rust or signs of bearing failure. NEVER intermix new and used bearings. If even one bearing in a s e t needs t o be replaced, all bearings at t h a t location MUST be replaced.

Inspect t h e bearing surface of t h e rod and t h e rod c a p for rust and pitting.

Inspect t h e bearing surface of t h e rod and t h e rod c a p fo r water marks. Water marks a r e caused by t h e bearing surface being subjected t o water contamination, which causes "etching". The etching resembles t h e s ize of t h e bearing as shown in t h e accompanying illustration.

Inspect the bearing surface of t h e rod and rod c a p f o r signs of spalling. Spalling is t h e loss of bearing surface, and resembles flaking or chinping. The spalling condition will be most evident on t h e thrus t portion of t h e connecting rod in line with t h e I-beam. Bearing surface damage is usually caused by improper lubrication.

Check t h e bearing surface of the rod and rod c a p f o r signs of c h a t t e r marks. This condition is identified by a rough bearing surface resembling a t iny washboard. The condition is caused by a combination of low- speed low-load operation in cold water , and is aggravated by inadequate lubrication and improper fuel. Under these conditions, t h e crankshaft journal is hammered by the connecting rod. As ignition occurs In t h e

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Needle bearings and cages unfit for further service.

cylinder, the piston pushes the connecting rod with tremendous fo rce , and th is f o r c e is transferred t o t h e connecting rod journal.

Since the re is l i t t le or no load on t h e crankshaft , i t bounces away f rom the connecting rod. The crankshaft then remains immobile for a split second, until the piston travel causes t h e connecting rod t o catch up t o the waiting crankshaft journal, then ham- mers it.

In some instances, t h e connecting rod crankpin bore becomes highly polished.

While the engine is running, a "wrhirr" and/or "chirp" sound may be heard when t h e engine is accelera ted rapidly f rom idle speed t o about 1500 rpm, then quickly returned t o idle. If c h a t t e r marks a r e discovered, t h e crankshaft and t h e connecting rods should be replaced.

Inspect the bearing surface of t h e rod and rod c a p for signs of uneven wear and possible overheating. Uneven wear is usually caused by a bent connecting rod. Over- heating is identified a s a bluish bearing surface color and is caused by inadequate lubrication or operating t h e engine at excessively high rpm.

Inspect the needle bearings. A bluish color indicates t h e bearing became very hot and t h e complete s e t for t h e rod MUST b e

Rod, rod cap, wrist pin, and wrist pin bearing, after removal.

Testing two rods at the wrist pin end for warpage.

replaced, no question. Service the connecting rod bearing sur-

f aces according t o t h e following procedures and precautions:

a- Align t h e e tched marks on the knob side of t h e connecting rod with t h e e tched marks on t h e connecting rod cap.

b- Tighten t h e connecting rod c a p a t- taching bolts securely.

c- Use ONLY crocus cloth t o clean bearing surface at t h e crankshaft end of t h e connecting rod. NEVER use any other type of abrasive cloth.

d- Insert the crocus cloth in a s lot ted 3/8" diameter shaft . Chuck t h e shaf t in a drill press and operate t h e press at high speed and a t t h e s a m e t ime, keep t h e connecting rod at a 90' angle t o t h e slotted shaft .

e- Clean t h e connecting rod ONLY enough t o remove marks. DO NOT continue once t h e marks have disappeared.

f- Clean t h e piston pin end of t h e connecting rod using t h e method described in Steps dl and e, but using 320 g r i t Carborun- dum cloth instead of crocus cloth.

g- Thoroughly wash t h e connecting rods t o remove abrasive grit. After washing, check t h e bearing surfaces a second time.

h- If the connecting rod cannot be cleaned properly, i t should be replaced.

i- Lubricate t h e bearing surfaces of the connecting rods with light-weight oil t o prevent corrosion.

Testing two rods at the rod cap end for warpage.

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3-22 PO WERHEAD

PISTON AND RING INSPECTION AND SERVICE

Inspect each piston for evidence of scoring, cracks, metal damage, cracked piston pin boss, or worn pin boss, Illustration f34. Be especially cri t ical during inspection if t h e engine has been submerged, Illustration #35.

The powerheads for the three-cylinder engines covered in this manual were equipp- e d with three-ring pistons on t h e ear ly models, and then a two-ring piston on l a t e r models. When the change was made f rom t h e three-ring t o t h e two-ring type, t h e a r e a f rom top groove and t h e piston dome was too small, causing failure of t h e piston. Therefore, when new pistons a r e purchased, check t h e first ring "land" t o be sure i t is a reasonable distance from the dome. Illus- tration f 36 shows an old piston (left) and a new piston (right) with the wider distance from t h e top groove t o t h e dome. When installing f l a t dome pistons, t h e top ring is tapered and f i t s into a tapered groove in t h e piston. C a r e must be exercised when installing rings t o t h e pistons t o ensure t h e proper ring is used with t h e proper piston in t h e proper ring groove.

Carefully check each wrist pin t o be sure i t is not t h e leas t bit bent. If a wrist pin i s bent, t h e pin and piston MUST be replaced as a se t , because t h e pin will have damaged t h e boss when i t was removed.

Check t h e wrist pin needle bearings. If any one of t h e needles is damaged, has a f l a t spot, or is unfit for fu r the r service f o r any reason, t h e complete s e t MUST b e replaced.

Grasp each end of t h e ring with e i ther a ring expander or your thumbnails; open t h e ring and remove i t f rom the piston, Illustra- tion f37. Many times, t h e ring may b e difficult t o remove because i t is Iff rozen" in t h e piston ring groove. In such a case, use a screwdriver and pry t h e ring f ree . The ring may break, but if i t is diff icult t o remove, i t MUST be replaced.

OBSERW t h e pin in each ring groove of t h e piston. The ends of the ring MUST straddle th is pin. The pin prevents t h e ring f rom rotating while t h e engine is operating. This f a c t is t h e di rect opposite of a four- cycle engine where t h e ring must ro ta te . In a two-cycle engine, if t h e ring is permit ted t o rota te , a t one point, t h e opening between t h e ring ends would align with e i the r t h e in take or exhaust por t in the cylinder. A t t h a t t ime, t h e ring would expand very slightly, c a t c h on t h e edge of the port, and BREAK.

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Therefore, when checking the condition of t h e piston, ALWAYS check t h e pin in each groove t o be sure i t is t ight , Illustra- tion #38. If one pin is t h e leas t bit loose, t h e piston MUST be replaced, without question. Never a t t e m p t t o replace t h e pin, i t i s NEVER successful.


Check t h e piston ring grooves fo r wear, burns, distortion, or loose locating pins. During an overhaul, t h e rings should be replaced to ensure lasting repair and proper engine performance a f t e r the work has been completed.

Cleaning the piston ring grooves. An automotive type ring groove cleaner should NEVER be used.

Clean t h e piston dome, ring grooves, and t h e piston skirt. Clean t h e piston skirt with a crocus cloth.

Clean carbon deposits f rom the t o p of t h e piston using a sof t wire brush, carbon removal solution, or by sand blasting. If a wire brush is used, TAKE CARE not t o burr or round machined edges.

Wear a pair of good gloves fo r protection against sharp edges, and clean the piston ring grooves using t h e recessed end of t h e proper broken ring a s a tool. NEVER use a rectangular ring t o clean t h e groove for a tapered ring, or use a tapered ring t o clean t h e groove for a rectangular ring.

NEVER use an automotive- type ring groove cleaner t o clean piston ring grooves, because this type of tool could loosen t h e piston ring locating pins. TAKE CARE not t o burr or round the machined edges. In- spect t h e piston ring locating pins t o be sure they a r e tight.

Oversize Pistons and Rings Scored cylinder blocks can be saved for

fur ther service by reboring and installing

Using a micrometer to check the roundness of the piston.

Heat and vibration caused this pin to work itself into the piston until the head became flush with the surface of the ring groove. This condition will allow the ring to rotate during engine operation. The ring end would soon catch on one of the cylinder ports and break.

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3-24 POWERHEAD

oversize pistons and piston rings. ONE MORE WORD: Oversize pistons and rings a r e not available for all engines. A t the t i m e of th is printing, t h e sizes listed in t h e Appendix were available. Check with t h e par ts depar tment at your local dealer fo r t h e model engine you a r e servicing, and t o be sure t h e factory has not deleted a s ize f rom their stock. The pistons should always be ordered and received BEFORE t h e block is rebored, t o ensure a proper piston f i t for each cylinder, a f t e r t h e work is accomplished.

ASSEMBLING

CRITICAL WORDS Two conditions absolutely MUST exist

when t h e piston and rod assembly a r e installed into t h e cylinder block.

For V4 engine installation, t h e slanted side of the piston must f ace toward the exhaust side of t h e cylinder, Illustration # 39.

For three-cylinder engine installation, make sure t h e openings in t h e pistons a r e aligned with the cutaways in t h e cylinder wall, Illustration f 40.

The hole in the rod near t h e wrist pin opening and at t h e lower end of t h e rod must f a c e UPWARD.

Therefore, t h e rod and piston MUST be assembled correctly in order f o r t h e assembly t o be properly installed into t h e cylinder. Soak t h e piston in a container of very hot water for about t en minutes, Illus- tration f41. Heating t h e piston will cause i t t o expand ever so slightly, but enough t o allow t h e wris t -p in t o be pressed through without difficulty.

Before pressing t h e wrist pin into place, hold t h e piston and rod near t h e cylinder block and check t o be sure both will be facing in t h e right direction when they a r e installed.

Pack t h e wrist pin needle bearing c a g e with needle bearing grease, or a good grade of petroleum jelly. Load t h e bearing c a g e with needles and insert i t in to t h e end of t h e rod, Illustration #42.

Slide t h e rod in to t h e piston boss. On V 4 engine installation, check a second t i m e t o be sure t h e slanted side of t h e piston is facing toward t h e exhaust side of t h e cylinder and t h e hole in t h e rod is facing upward.

For a three-cylinder engine installation, check a second t ime t o be sure t h e hole in t h e piston aligns with the cutaway in t h e cylinder wall.

Place the piston and rod in the arbor press with t h e LOOSE or s tamped llL" side of

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t h e piston facing UPWARD, Illustration 843. Press t h e wrist pin through the piston and rod. Continue to press t h e wrist pin through until the groove in the wrist pin for t h e lock ring is visible on both ends of t h e pin, Illustration f44. Remove t h e assembly f rom t h e arbor press. Install t h e retaining ring onto each end of the wrist pin. Some models have a wire ring, and others have a Truarc ring. Use a pair of Truarc pliers t o install t h e Truarc ring.

Fill the piston skirt with a rag, towel, shop cloths, or o ther suitable material , Illus- t ra t ion f46, next page. The rag will prevent t h e rod f rom coming in con tac t with t h e piston skirt while i t i s laying on t h e bench. If t h e rod is allowed t o s t r ike t h e piston skirt , t h e skirt may become distorted.

Assemble t h e other pistons, rods, and wrist pins in the s a m e manner. Fill t h e skirt with rags as protection until t h e assembly is installed.

Alternate Assembling Method If an arbor press is not available, t h e

piston may be assembled t o t h e rod in much

WORD @

HOLD l NG BLOCK

t h e s a m e manner as described fo r disassembling.

First , soak t h e piston in a container of very hot water fo r about t en minutes, Illus- t ra t ion #4l, previous page.

For a V4 engine installation, before pressing t h e wrist pin into place, hold the piston and rod near t h e cylinder block and check t o b e sure both will be facing in the right direction when they a r e installed.

For a three-cylinder installation, check t o be sure t h e hole in t h e piston will align with t h e cutaway in t h e cylinder wall.

Pack t h e wrist pin needle bearing cage with needle bearing grease, or a good grade of petroleum jelly. Load t h e bearing cage with needles and insert i t in to t h e end of the rod, Illustration #42.

Slide t h e rod in to t h e piston boss and check a second t i m e t o be sure t h e slanted side of t h e piston is facing toward t h e exhaust side of t h e cylinder and t h e hole in t h e rod is facing upward.

Now, assume a si t t ing position and l ay a couple towels over your lap. Hold your legs t ightly together t o form a cradle fo r t h e piston above your knees. Se t t h e is ton between your legs with the LOOSE side of t h e piston facing upward. Now, drive t h e wrist pin through t h e piston using a dr i f t pin with a shoulder. The d r i f t pin will f i t in to t h e hole through the- wrist pin and t h e shoulder will ride on t h e end of t h e wrist pin. Use sharp hard blows with a hammer. Your legs will absorb t h e shock without damaging the piston. If this method is used on a regular basis during t h e busy season, your legs will develop black-and-blue areas, but no problem, t h e marks will disappear in a few days.

Continue t o drive the wrist pin through t h e piston, Illustration #45, until t h e groove

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3-26 POWERHEAD

in the wrist pin for t h e lockring is visible at both ends. Install t h e retaining spring wire or Truarc ring onto each end of t h e wrist pin.

Fill the piston skirt with a rag, towel, shop cloths, or o ther suitable mater ia l , Illus- t ra t ion 1746. The rag will prevent t h e rod from coming in con tac t with t h e piston ski r t while i t is laying on t h e bench. If t h e rod is allowed t o s t r ike t h e piston skirt , t h e ski r t may become distorted.

Assemble t h e other pistons, rods, and wrist pins in t h e s a m e manner. Fill t h e skirt with rags a s protection until t h e assembly is installed.

INSTALLATION

Piston and rod assembly installation procedures will be found in Section 3-17, Piston and Rod Assembly Installation.

3-14 CRANKSHAFT

REMOVAL

FIRST, THESE WORDS The three-cylinder engines covered in

this manual a r e equipped with an upper seal and bearing, a lower seal and bearing, and two main bearings between. A labyrinth

seal i s used at the t w o cen te r main bearings and just above t h e bottom seal , t o provide an e f fec t ive seal between t h e cylinders.

On t h e V 4 engines covered in th is manual, a top and bottom seal is used with sealing rings around t h e crankshaft in t h e center between each cylinder in each bank to seal f o r pressure and vacuum. The ear ly model V 4 engines had a "two-ring" crankshaft . Later models incorporated a "three- ring" crankshaft. Still l a t e r models have a "six-ring" arrangement, which eliminates t h e necessity of having the labyrinth seals. I t is not possible t o exchange a two-ring crankshaft for a three-ring crankshaft or t h e other way around. The s a m e type crankshaft must ALWAYS b e installed a s a replacement.

The rings on t h e V 4 engines a r e br i t t le and break easily if twisted during removal of the crankshaft. Theref ore, EXERCISE CARE when removing t h e crankshaft t o prevent damaging t h e rings.

Check t o be sure the bolts have been removed securing t h e upper and lower bearing caps.

Lif t the crankshaft assembly from the block, Illustration #47. On some models, i t may be necessary t o use a soft-headed mal- le t and t a p on t h e bottom side of t h e crankshaft t o jar i t loose. As the crankshaf t is lifted, TAKE CARE t o work t h e cen te r main bearingls loose, and t h e sealing rings, if servicing a V 4 engine. The center bearingjs a r e a spli t bearing held together with a snap wire ring.

The bottom half of t h e bearing may be s tuck in the cylinder block. Therefore, t h e crankshaft and t h e center main bearing must be worked f r e e of the block together.

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CRANKSHAFT 3-27

Crankshaft Bearings On the V4 engines, observe how the

center main bearing/s have a hole in t h e outside circumference. On three-cylinder engines, t h e two cen te r main bearings and t h e top main bearing a re also held in place in t h e same manner. Notice t h e locating pin in the cylinder block, Illustration f48. The purpose of this arrangement is t o prevent t h e bearing shell from rotating. During assembling, t h e holes in t h e bearings MUST index with the pins in the block. Notice t h a t t h e hole is not in t h e center of t h e bearing. If the bearing is t o be removed f rom t h e crankshaft , make a suitable mark or identification t o ENSURE t h e bearing is installed in t h e s a m e position from which i t was removed. ONLY in this manner can t h e hole be properly indexed with t h e pin.

Labyrinth Seal If servicing a three-cylinder engine, or a

very early model V4, notice t h e grooves in t h e block on one side sf t h e center main bearing. Observe t5e grooves in t h e crankcase cover. This arrangement of grooves forr rs what is commonly known as a "labyrinth" seal. The grooves fill with oil and/or

LOCAT l NG \

fuel creating a seal between t h e cylinders. Also notice t h a t t h e t o p bearing and t h e two center main bearings al l have a locating pin.

Lower Bearing The powerheads of engines covered in

this manual have a lower roller bearing t h a t i s pressed onto the crankshaft. If this bearing requires replacement, i t is removed by f i r s t removing the snap ring, Illustration 3749, and then "pulling" t h e bearing f rom t h e crankshaft . A clamp-type puller is required t o remove this bearing, Illustration #50. The bearing need not be removed for cleaning and inspection. Remove th is bearing ONLY if t h e determination has been made t h a t i t is unfit fo r fur ther service.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Inspect t h e splines for signs of abnormal wear. Check t h e crankshaft fo r straight- ness. Inspect t h e crankshaft oil seal surfaces t o be sure they a r e not grooved, pit ted or scratched. Replace t h e crankshaft if i t i s severely damaged or worn. Check all crankshaf t bearing surfaces for rust , water marks, cha t t e r marks, uneven wear or overheating. Clean t h e crankshaf t surfaces with

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328 POWERHEAD

End ot a crankshaft from a submerged V 4 engine. The unit was not serviced immediately and the resulting corrosion has rendered the shaft unfit for further service.

crocus cloth. Carefully check t h e grooves around t h e crankshaft for t h e sealing rings. Check t h e surfaces of block halves t o b e sure the sealing rings will a f f e c t an effec- tive seal.

Clean the crankshaft and crankshaft bearing with solvent. Dry t h e parts, but NOT t h e bearing, with compressed air. Check t h e crankshaft surf aces a second time. Replace the crankshaft if the surfaces cannot be cleaned properly f o r satisfac to ry service. If the crankshaft is t o be installed fo r service, lubr icate t h e surfaces with light oil.

On t h e V 4 engine, the center main bearing has a spring s teel wire securing t h e two halves together. The three-cylinder engine has two cen te r main bearings. Remove t h e wire, and then--the outer sleeve, then t h e needle bearings, Illustration b5l. TAKE CARE not t o lose any of the needles. The outer shell is a f ractured break type unit. Therefore, the two halves of the shell MUST absolutely be kept as a set.

Check t h e crankshaft bearing surfaces t o be sure they a r e not pit ted or show any signs

of rust or corrosion. If t h e bearing surfaces a r e pit ted or rusted, t h e crankshaft and bearings must be replaced.

During an engine overhaul t o this degree, i t is a good pract ice t o remove the seal f rom t h e top main bearing. If t h e s a m e type of seal is used in t h e bottom main bearing, remove t h a t seal also.

MSEMBLING

REMINDER WORDS The V 4 engines have a single cen te r main

bearing and t h e three-cylinder engines have two cen te r main bearings.

Insert t h e proper number of needle bearings into t h e center main bearing cage, Illustration #52. Install t h e ou te r sleeve over t h e bearing cage. Check t o be sure t h e two halves of t h e ou te r sleeve a r e matched. Again, these two halves a r e manufactured a s a single unit and then broken. Theref ore, t h e hills and valleys of t h e break absolutely MUST match during installation. Double check t o be sure the marks made during bearing removal match t o ensure t h e hole in t h e bearing will index with the pin in the block. Remember , t h e hole in the bearing is NOT in the center , therefore the bearing

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CYLINDER BLOCK 3-29

can only be installed properly ONE WAY, Illustration #53, previous page.

Snap t h e retaining ring in to place around t h e bearing.

To install a new lower bearing, place t h e bearing onto t h e shaf t and press i t in to place using an arbor press. If an arbor press is not available a socket large enough t o f i t over t h e crankshaft could be used t o drive t h e bearing into place, Illustration f54.

Install the Truarc ring t o secure the bearing in place, Illustration #55.

On V4 engines, t h e upper bearing is pressed in to t h e upper bearing cap, Illustra- tion f56. On the three-cylinder ennines. t h e upper bearing is simply a-"snug" fitvontd t h e crankshaft , Illustration 1757.

R o t a t e t h e installed bearings t o be sure the re is no evidence of binding or rough spots. The crankshaft is now ready f o r installation.

INSTALLATION

Installation procedures a r e given in Sec- tion 3-18, Crankshaft Installation.

3-15 CYLINDER BLOCK SERVICE

Inspect the cylinder block and cylinder bores for cracks or other damage. Remove carbon with a f ine wire brush on a shaf t a t tached t o an e lect r ic drill or use a carbon remover solution.

Use an inside micrometer or t e l e s c o ~ i c gauge and micrometer t o check t h e cvlin- deri for wear. Check t h e bore for out-of- round and/or oversize bore. If t h e bore is tapered, out-of-round or worn more than 0.003" - 0.004" (0.076 mm - 0.102 mm) t h e cylinders should be rebored and oversize pistons and rings installed.

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3-30 POWERHEAD

GOOD WORDS Oversize piston weight i s approximately

t h e same a s a standard size piston. There- fore, i t is NOT necessary t o rebore all cylinders in a block just because one cylinder requires reboring.

Hone the cylinder walls lightly t o seat t h e new piston rings, as outlined in t h e Honing Procedures Section in this chapter. If t h e cylinders have been scored, but a r e not out-of-round or the sleeve is rough, clean t h e surface of t h e cylinder wlth a cylinder hone as described in Honing Proce- dures, next section.

SPECIAL WORD If only one cylinder is damaged, a cylin-

der sleeve may be installed on some models, but the cost i s very high. Installation of the sleeve will bring t h e powerhead back t o standard and permit reboring of t h a t cylinder at a la te r date.

HONING PROCEDURES

To ensure sa t is factory engine performance and long l ife following t h e overhaul work, t h e honing work should be performed with patience, skill, and in t h e following sequence:

a- Follow t h e hone manufacturer's recommendations f or use of t h e hone and f o r cleaning and lubricating during t h e honing operation, Illustration #5S.

b- Pump a continuous flow of honing oil in to the work area. If pumping is not

practical , use a n oil can. Apply t h e oil generously and frequently on both t h e s tones and work surface.

SPECIAL WORDS If honing a three-cylinder powerhead

block, use a long-size hone as a precaution against the hone becoming s tuck in one of t h e oblong openings in take ports, in t h e cylinder wall, Illustration 859, and breaking. If t h e special long hone is not available, t h e block should be taken t o a commercial shop equipped t o do t h e job properly.

c- Begin t h e stroking at the t o p of the cylinder. Maintain a firm stone pressure against the cylinder wall t o assure fas t stock removal and accura te results.

d- Expand t h e stones as necessary t o compensate f o r stock removal and s tone wear. The best cross-hatch pat tern is obtained using a s t roke r a t e of 30 complete cycles per minute. Again, use t h e honing oil generously.

e- Hone t h e cylinder walls ONLY enough t o de-glaze t h e walls.

f- After t h e honing operation has been completed, clean t h e cylinder bores with hot water and detergent. Scrub t h e walls with a stiff bristle brush and rinse thoroughly with hot water. The cylinders MUST b e cleaned well a s a prevention against any abrasive material remaining in the cylinder bore. Such mater ia l will cause rapid wear of new piston rings, t h e cylinder bore, and t h e bearings.

g- After cleaning, swab t h e bores several t imes with engine oil and a clean cloth, and then wipe them dry with a clean cloth. NEVER use kerosene or gasoline t o clean t h e cylinders.

h- Clean the remainder of the cylinder block to remove any excess mater ia l spread during the honing operation.

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CYLINDER BLOCK 3-31

8"

Exploded drawing of the powerhead for a 75 hp engine, 1958 t o about 1965.

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3-32 POWERHEAD

PISTON

PISTON RINGS

LOWER SEAL -

ASSEMBLY

S E A L I N G RING

a LOWER

SEAL CAP

-. 1 -*. . '

---A

Exploded drawing of the crankshaft, rod, and piston assemblies for a 75 h p engine, 1958 to about 1965.

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CYLINDER BLOCK 3-33

OUTER EXHAUST

INNER COVER

CONNECTING

SPARK

SPARK

SAFETY CAM YOKE

SWITCH

Exploded drawing of the complete powerhead for a late model V 4 engine.

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3-34 POWERHEAD

GASKETS

/ UPPER

THERMOSTAT DEFLECTOR

G

CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY

IDLE ADJUSTMENT SCREW

. . COMPONENTS

ROD

'v' COMPONENTS

Exploded drawing of the complete powerhead for a three-cylinder engine.

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PISTON AND ROD ASSEMBLING 3-35

3-16 POWERHEAD ASSEMBLING

SPECIAL WORD The cylinder block assembling work

should proceed quickly and without i nterrup- tions. If t h e work is partially completed and then l e f t for any period of t ime, sealant may become hard, par ts may be moved and thei r identi ty for a particular cylinder lost, or an important s t e p may be bypassed, over- looked, or forgotten.

The following sections pickup t h e work of assembling t h e cylinder block AFTER t h e various parts have been serviced and assembled. Procedures for each a r e a a r e found in this chapter under separa te headings.

3-17 PISTON AND ROD ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION

WORDS OF ADVICE If new rings a r e t o be installed, each ring

f rom t h e package MUST be checked in t h e cylinder. Errors happen. Men and machines can make mistakes. The wrong size ring can b e included in a package with t h e proper part number.

Therefore, check EACH ring, one at-a- t ime a s follows: Turn t h e ring sideways and lower i t a couple inches into t h e cylinder

bore. Now, turn t h e ring horizontal in t h e cylinder. I t is now in i t s normal operating position, but without t h e piston, Illustration 1 Next, use a feeler gauge and measure t h e distance (the gap) between t h e ends of t h e ring. The maximum and minimum al- lowable ring gap is listed in t h e specifications in t h e Appendix.

Turn t h e piston upside down and slide i t in and ou t of t h e cylinder, Illustration #2. The piston should slide without any evidence of binding.

Several d i f ferent methods a r e possible t o install t h e piston and rod assembly in to t h e cvlinder. The followinn ~ r o c e d u r e s a r e out- 1;ned fo r t h e d~- i t -~&;se l f e r , working at home without the advantage of special tools.

First , purchase a special hose c lamp with a s t r ip of metal inside the clamp, Illustra- tion #3. This piece of meta l on t h e inside allows the outside portion of the c lamp t o

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3-36 POWERHEAD

slide on t h e inner s t r ip without causing t h e ring t o rota te .

Actually, t o our knowledge a Mercruiser dealer is t h e only place such a c lamp may b e purchased. A t the Mercruiser marine deal- e r , ask for an exhaust bellows hose clamp. The design of this hose c lamp prevents the clamp and t h e piston ring from turning a s t h e c lamp is tightened. DO NOT a t t e m p t t o use an ordinary hose c lamp from an automo- t ive parts house because such a c lamp will cause t h e piston ring t o ro ta te a s t h e c lamp is tightened. The ring MUST NOT rota te , because t h e ring ends must remain on e i the r side of t h e dowel pin in the ring groove.

Next, coat t h e inside surface of t h e cylinder with a film of light-weight oil. Coat t h e exterior surface of t h e piston with t h e oil.

The powerhead of early model engines, covered in th is manual, were equipped with three- ring pistons. Later three-cylinder models used two-ring pistons. When t h e change was made from the three- ring t o t h e two-ring type, t h e a r e a f rom t h e top groove and t h e piston dome was too small, causing failure of t h e piston. Therefore, when new pistons a r e purchased, check t h e f i rs t ring "land" t o be sure i t is a reasonable dis tance f rom the dome. Illustration #4 shows an old piston (left) and a new piston (right) with t h e wider distance from the top groove t o t h e dome. When installing f l a t dome pistons, the top ring is tapered and f i t s in to a tapered groove in t h e piston. C a r e must b e exercised when installing rings t o t h e pistons to ensure t h e proper ring is used with t h e proper piston in the proper ring groove.

TAKE TIME -

Take just a minute t o notice how the piston rings a r e manufactured. Each end of t h e ring has a small cutout on t h e inside circumference, Illustration 85. Now, visua- l i ze the ring Installed in t h e piston groove. The ring ends must straddle t h e pin installed in each piston groove. As the ring is tightened around t h e piston, t h e ends will begin

w t o come together. When the piston is installed in to t h e cylinder bore, t h e two ends of the ring will c o m e together and the cutout edge will be up against t h e pin. For this reason, CARE must be exercised when installing t h e rings onto t h e piston and when the piston is installed into t h e cylinder.

Install only t h e bottom ring in to t h e bottom piston groove. Do not expand the ring any fur ther than necessary, a s a precaution against breaking it.

Install t h e ring in to t h e piston groove with t h e ends of the ring straddling t h e pin in t h e groove. Notice how t h e ring pins a r e s t a e red from one groove t o t h e next, by gF: 180 . The ring ends MUST straddle t h e pin t o prevent the ring from rotating during engine operation. In a two-cycle engine, if t h e ring is permit ted t o ro ta te , at one point t h e opening between t h e ring ends would align with e i ther t h e in take or exhaust port in t h e cylinder, t h e ring would expand very slightly, ca tch on t h e edge of the port, and BREAK.

Install t h e hose c lamp over the piston and bottom ring, Illustration #6. Tighten t h e hose c lamp with one hand and at the same t ime r o t a t e t h e clamp back-and-forth

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CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATION 3-37

slightly with the other hand. This "rocking" motion of t h e clamp a s i t is tightened will convince you the ring ends a r e properly positioned on e i the r side of t h e pin. Contin- ue t o tighten t h e clamp, and "rocking" t h e clamp until t h e c lamp is against t h e piston skirt. At this point, the ring ends will be together and t h e cutout on each ring end will be against t h e pin.

CAREFULLY insert t h e rod and t h e piston skirt down into t h e cylinder. Push t h e piston into the cylinder until the bottom ring clamp, just installed, touches t h e top of t h e cylinder, Illustration #7. Watch t o be sure t h e rod does not hang-up on one of t h e cylinder ports.

GOOD WORDS The following four a reas must be check-

ed at th is point in t h e assembling work: a- The piston and rod a r e being installed

in to t h e s a m e cylinder f rom which t h e y were removed.

b- The hole in the rod is facing UP- WARD.

c- The slanted side of the piston is TO- WARD t h e exhaust side of the cylinder.

d- The ends of the bottom ring straddle t h e pin in t h e piston groove.

Tap t h e piston with the end of a wooden tool handle, or plast ic mallet , Illustration #8, until the ring en te r s the cylinder. Re- move t h e hose clamp.

Install the remaining rings in t h e s a m e manner, one at-a- time, making sure t h e ends of each ring straddle the pin in t h e piston groove.

After t h e las t ring has been installed and t h e clamp removed, t a p t h e piston in to t h e bore until the crown is about even with t h e cylinder block surface.

Install t h e other pistons in exact ly t h e s a m e manner.

Turn the cylinder block upside down with t h e top of t h e block t o your LEFT. Remove t h e bolts and rod caps f rom each rod. Set each rod c a p in a definite position t o ensure each will b e installed onto the rod from which i t was removed.

V 4 Engines Only Pull on t h e rod t o move t h e piston all t h e

way into the cylinder. Install one of t h e rod bolts t o each rod. Wrap one end of a rubber band around each rod bolt and t h e other end around something on t h e block t o hold t h e rods out of t h e way during crankshaft installation.

Three-C ylinder Engines Leave t h e pistons towards the t o p of t h e

cylinders t o allow room for crankshaft instal lat ion, Illustration f9.

3-18 CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATION NEEDLE MAIN AND ROD BEARINGS

The following procedures outl ine s teps t o install a crankshaft with a single main bearing; t h e lower bearings pressed onto t h e

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3-38 POWERHEAD

crankshaft; and the upper bearing pressed in to t h e upper bearing cap, as f o r t h e V 4 engine. The section also contains procedures f o r installation of t h e three-cylinder crankshaft with two center main bearings; t h e lower bearing pressed onto t h e crankshaft; and the upper bearing simply pushed onto t h e crankshaft. A sub-heading clearly identifies the procedures for the type of crankshaft being serviced. If t h e procedure applies t o both type of crankshafts , this f a c t will also be indicated in t h e heading.

Three-C ylinder Crankshaf t Observe the pin installed in each main

bearing recess. Notice t h e hole in each main bearing outer shell. During installation, t h e hole in each bearing shell MUST index over t h e pin in t h e cylinder block.

Hold t h e crankshaft over t h e cylinder block with t h e upper end t o your LEFT. Now, lower t h e crankshaft in to t h e block, Illustration f10, and a t t h e s a m e t ime, align t h e hole in each bearing t o enable t h e pin in t h e block t o index with t h e hole. R o t a t e each bearing slightly until all pins a r e properly indexed with the matching bearing hole. Once all pins a r e indexed, t h e crankshaft will be ~ r o ~ e r l v seated.

Bearing C a p Installation Slide the lower bearing c a p into place

and just s t a r t t h e mounting bolts, Illustra- tion f l l . DO NOT tighten them a t this time. Start ing t h e bolts will hold t h e crankshaf t in place in t h e block while t h e work continues.

GOOD WORDS The reason for installing t h e bearing

caps at this t ime is t o prevent t h e crankshaf t from lif t ing as i t is turned during rod bearing and rod c a p installation. If servicing a three-cylinder engine, drill two 7/16" holes in a small piece of wood. Now, slide t h e block of wood down t h e two s tuds at t h e upper bearing. Secure t h e block of wood in place with t h e nuts, Illustration f12. This block of wood will prevent t h e crankshaft f rom lifting as i t is turned during rod c a p installation.

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CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATION 3-39

V4 Cranksha. t Lower t h e crankshaft into place in t h e

block with t h e center main bearing pin indexed into the hole in the block. A t t h e same t ime a s t h e crankshaft is being lowered, work t h e sealing rings around t h e crankshaf t into t h e recesses in t h e block, Illustra- tion #13. R o t a t e the rings until t h e openings a r e staggered across t h e crankshaft . USE CARE because t h e rings a r e br i t t le and will break if twisted or distorted. Af te r t h e crankshaft is in place, i t is not possible t o ro ta te t h e rings.

Slide the lower and upper bearing caps into place and just s t a r t t h e mounting bolts.

GOOD WORDS On V4 engines, t h e bearing c a p at both

ends of t h e crankshaft can only align with t h e bolt hole pat tern in t h e powerhead ONE WAY. Continue t o r o t a t e t h e caps until all eight bolt holes a r e properly aligned. DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time. Start ing t h e bolts will hold t h e crankshaf t in place in t h e block while t h e work continues.

The lower bearing retainer p la te has two ea rs which index in to two recesses in t h e lower bearing cap. Therefore, r o t a t e the retainer until t h e ears on t h e retainer p la te index with the two recesses in t h e bearing cap, then install two 114x28 guide pins through the lower bearing c a p and in to the retainer plate, Illustration 1/14, These guide pins will hold the bearing c a p and re ta iner p la te in place while t h e work continues and until the retaining bolts a r e installed.

All Engines Apply needle bearing grease t o each

bearing cage. C o a t t h e rod half of t h e bearing a r e a with needle bearing grease. Needle bearing grease MUST be used because other types of grease will not thin ou t and dissipate. The grease must dissipate t o allow the gasoline and oil mixture t o en te r and lubr icate t h e bearing. If needle bearing grease is not available, use a good grade of petroleum jelly (Vaseline).

Insert t h e proper number of needle bearings into each cage, Illustration # 15. S e t t h e bearing cage into t h e bottom half of t h e rod, Illustration #16, next page. With your fingers on each side of t h e rod, pull up on

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3-40 POWERHEAD

t h e rod and bring t h e rod up t o t h e bottom side of t h e crankshaft. Place one needle bearing on each side of the crankshaft , Illustration f 17. Using needle bearing grease, load t h e other cage and install t h e needle bearings in to t h e cage. Lower t h e c a g e onto t h e crankshaft journal.

Install t h e proper rod c a p t o t h e rod with t h e identifying mark or dimple properly aligned to ensure t h e c a p is being installed in the same position from which i t was removed, Illustration 818. Tighten t h e rod bolts f ingert ight, and then just a bit more, Illustration f 19.

Use a tlscratchal!", pick, or simiiar tool and move i t back-and-forth on t h e outside surface of t h e rod and cap, Illustration f20, next page. Make t h e movement across t h e mating line of .- t h e rod and cap. The tool

should not ca tch on t h e rod or on t h e cap. The rod c a p must s e a t squarely with t h e rod. If not, t a p t h e c a p until t h e "scratchall" will move back-and-forth on the rod and c a p across t h e mat ing line without any feeling of catching. Any s t e p on t h e outside will mean a s t e p on t h e inside of t h e rod and cap. Jus t a whisker of a l ip will cause one of the needle bearings t o ca tch and fail t o rota te . The needle will quickly f l a t t en and t h e rod will begin t o "knock". Needle bearings MUST ro ta te or t h e function of t h e bearing is lost.

Tighten t h e rod c a p bolts a1 ternate ly and evenly in t h r e e rounds t o t h e torque value given in the Torque Table in t h e Appendix.

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CRANKCASE COVER 3-4 1

Tighten t h e bolts t o 112 t h e torque value on the f i rs t round, t o 314 t h e torque value on t h e second round, and t o t h e full torque value on the third and final round. On each round, check with t h e pick t o be sure t h e c a p remains seated squarely.

Install t h e other rod caps in t h e s a m e manner.

Af te r t h e rods have been connected t o t h e crankshaft, r o t a t e t h e crankshaf i until t h e rings on one cylinder a r e visible through t h e exhaust port. Use a screwdriver and push on each ring t o be sure i t has spring tension, Illustration 021. I t will be necessary t o move t h e piston slightly, because a l l of the rings will not be visible at one t ime. If the re is no spring tension, t h e ring was broken during installation. The piston must be removed and a new ring installed. Re- pea t the tension t es t at the intake port. Check t h e other cylinders in t h e s a m e manner.

3-19 CRANKCASE COVER INSTALLATION

First, check t o be sure t h e mating sur- f a c e s of the crankcase cover and t h e cylinder block a r e clean. Pay particular a t t en- tion t o the labyrinth seal grooves in t h e bearing area , when these seals a r e used. The mating surfaces and the seal grooves MUST be f r e e of any old sealing compound or o ther foreign material .

V4 Engines Only Check t o be sure t h e sealing rings a r e all

down in place and t h a t t h e ring openings a r e NOT close t o the split between the two crankcase halves.

Three-C ylinder Engines Only Check t o be sure t h e main bearings a r e

fully seated into t h e powerhead. The bearings can be checked by a t tempt ing t o "rock" the bearing in place. The a t t e m p t should fail. The bearing should be locked in place with t h e pin indexed in to t h e hole in t h e block.

Remove t h e wooden block from the s tuds at t h e upper bearing area. Af te r t h e wooden block has been removed, DO NOT ro ta te t h e crankshaft. Rotating t h e crankshaft will cause i t t o "lifttt and the bearings indexed over t h e pins in t h e block wiJl become misaligned.

CRITICAL WORDS The remainder of t h e cylinder block in-

stallat ion work should be performed WITH- OUT interruption. Do not begin t h e work if a break in t h e sequence is expected, coffee , lunch, whatever. The sealer will begin t o set almost immediately, therefore , t h e crankcase cover installation, main bearing bolt installation and tightening, and t h e side bolt installation and tightening, must move along rapidly.

Apply just a small amount of 1000 Sealer in to t h e groove in t h e cylinder block t o hold t h e seal in place. Install a new "spaghetti" seal in to t h e groove.

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3-42 POWERHEAD

SPECIAL NOTE After the seal on both sides of the

cylinder block have been installed, apply a l ight coating of 1000 Sealer t o t h e outside edge of t h e I1spaghetti" seal , Illustration f22.

Next, lower the crankcase cover into place on t h e cylinder block. Install t h e two guide centering pins through t h e cover and in to t h e block, Illustration W23. The centering pins a r e tapered, therefore, check t h e crankcase and notice which side has t h e large hole and which has the small hole. The pin must be inserted in to t h e large hole first: If the pin is installed into t h e small hole f irst , t h e crankcase cover or t h e cylinder block will break.

3-20 MAIN BEARING BOLT AND CRANKCASE SIDE BOLT INSTALLATION

Apply a coating of 1000 Sealer t o t h e threads of the main bearing bolts. Install and t ighten t h e main bearing bolts finger- t igh t and then just a bit more, Illustration f 24 and #25.

Tighten the main bearing bolts al ternately and evenly in t h r e e rounds t o t h e torque value given in the Torque Table in

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M,AIN BEARING BOLTS 3-43

t h e Appendix. Be sure t o check t h e Specifi- cations in the Appendix for t h e engine being serviced.

Tighten t h e bolts t o 112 t h e to ta l torque value on t h e f i rs t round, t o 3/4 t h e to ta l torque value on t h e second round, and t o t h e full torque value on t h e third and final round.

As an example: If t h e to ta l torque value specified is 200 ft- lbs, t h e bolts should b e tightened t o 100 ft- lbs on the f i rs t go- around; t o 150 f t-lbs on t h e second round; and t o t h e full 200 f t-lbs on t h e third round.

Install and t ighten t h e crankcase side bolts, Illustration #26, t o t h e torque value given in t h e Appendix.

Three-Cylinder Engine Install the other two a t taching bolts

through the lower bearing c a p and t ighten them securely.

V4 Engine Install the a t taching bolts t o secure t h e

lower and upper bearing caps. Tighten t h e bolts EVENLY and SECURELY.

Install two bolts through t h e lower bearing c a p into the retainer plate. These a r e special bolts with sealing qualities built in,

Illustration #27. Theref ore, NEVER use the bolts a second time. Piscard t h e old bolts t h a t were removed and install NEW bolts. Remove t h e two 114x28 guide pins and install the other two sealing bolts, Illustration #28. Tighten t h e bolts EVENLY and ALTERNATELY.

Install the Woodruff key in t h e crankshaft . Slide t h e flywheel onto t h e crankshaft . R o t a t e t h e flywheel through several revolutions and check t o be sure all moving parts indicate smooth operation without evidence of binding o r "rough" spots.

Remove t h e flywheel.

3-21 BOTTOM SEAL INSTALLATION TYPE ATTACHED T O LOWER END OF CRANKSHAFT

This type of seal is a t t ached t o the lower end sf t h e cranksbaf t.

Install the quadrant 0- seal into the quadrant seal holder with t h e lip of t h e seal facing toward the BOTTOM of the cylinder block.

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3-44 POWERHEAD

Apply a small amount of light-weight oil onto t h e quadrant O-ring, and then slide t h e ring onto the crankshaft , with t h e raised a rea of ring towards t h e lower bearing cap, Illustration 829. Slide the large washer, spring, and small washer, onto t h e crankshaf t , and secure them in place with the Truarc snap ring, Illustration #30.

3-22 EXHAUST COVER AND BYPASS COVER INSTALLATION

Coat both sides of a MEW gasket with 1000 Sealer, and then place t h e gasket in position on t h e exhaust side of the cylinder

block, on t h e three-cylinder engines and between t h e heads on t h e V4. Install t h e inner plate. Coa t both sides of another NEW gasket with sealer, and then install t h e gasket and exhaust cover.

Secure the exhaust cover in place with the at tachinn hardware.

Coa t borh sides of a NEW gasket with sealer , and then place i t in position on t h e cylinder block, Illustration 631. Install t h e bypass covers and secure them in place with t h e a t taching hardware, Illustration #32. If a fuel pump is used, be sure t h e same bypass cover is installed in the position f rom which i t was removed, Illustration f33.

3-23 REED BOX INSTALLATION

Install t h e reed box and in take manifold onto t h e cylinder block. A gasket is installed on both sides of t h e reed box. The reeds and reed stops f a c e inward toward t h e cylinder.

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HEAD INSTALLATION 3-45

3-24 HEAD INSTALLATION

Place a NEW head gasket in place on t h e cylinder block. NEVER use automotive type head gasket sealer. The chemicals in t h e sealer will cause electrolvtic action and eat the aluminum faster than you can get to the 134 and 135. Now, tighten t h e bolts A=- bank fo r money t o buy a new cylinder block. TERNATELY and EVENLY in th ree rounds

t o t h e torque value specified in t h e Appen- CAREFULLY place the head in position. dix. On t h e f i rs t round t ighten t h e bolts t o

Install t h e head bolts and t ighten them fing- the total torque value, on the second er tight, then just a bit more, Illustration round t o 314 the to ta l torque value, and t o

- i t h e full torque value on thk third aLd final round. If servicing a V4 powerhead, r epea t t h e procedure fo r t h e other head, Illustra- tion 536.

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3-46 PO WERHEAD

POWERHEAD INSTALLATION

Install t h e assembled powerhead t o t h e exhaust housing and t ighten t h e a t taching bolts a l ternate ly and evenly in th ree rounds t o t h e torque value specified in t h e Appen- dix. Tighten t h e bolts t o 112 t h e torque value on t h e f i rs t round, t o 314 t h e to ta l torque value on t h e second round, and t o t h e full torque value on t h e third and final round.

Install all powerhead accessories including t h e flywheel, carburetor, ignition components, s t a r t e r , etc. If any doubts or difficulties a r e encountered, follow t h e procedures outlined in t h e chapters covering t h e particular component.

The complete outboard unit is now ready t o be s t a r t ed and "broke-in" according t o t h e procedures outlined in t h e next section. 3-25 BREAK-IN PROCEDURES

Mount the engine in a test t ank or body of water. If this is not possible, connect a flush a t t achment and garden hose t o t h e lower unit. NEVER opera te t h e engine above idle speed using t h e flush a t t achment .

If t h e engine is operated above an idle speed, t h e unit must be IN GEAR, preferably with a t e s t wheel a t t ached t o t h e propeller shaft . If the engine is operated above idle speed with no load on t h e propeller, t h e engine could RUNAWAY resulting in serious damage or destruction of t h e unit.

CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump.

As soon as t h e engine s tar ts , CHECK t o b e sure t h e water pump is operating. If t h e water pump is operating, a water mist will b e discharged f rom t h e exhaust relief holes at t h e rear of t h e drive shaf t housing.

During t h e f i rs t 10 hours of operation, DO NOT opera te t h e engine at full th ro t t l e (except for VERY short periods). Perform t h e break-in as follows:

a- Operate at 112 throt t le , approximately 2500 t o 3500 rpm, f o r 2 hours. b Opera te at any speed a f t e r 2 hours

BUT NOT at sustained full th ro t t l e until another 8 hours of operation.

c- Mix gasoline and oil during t h e break- in period, to ta l of 10 hours, at a ra t io of 50: 1.

d- While the engine is operating during t h e initial period, check t h e fuel, exhaust , and water sys tems for leaks.

e- Refe r t o Chapter 5 fo r synchronizing procedures.

After the test period, disconnect the f u e l line. Remove t h e engine from t h e t e s t tank. Install the engine hood.

Discharging a small quantity of fuel into a sixgallon tank prior to adding the recommended amount of oil. Some fuel MUST be in the tank before adding the oil, as explained in the text .

0 MC approved oil for Johnson/Evinrude outboard engines. Only quality grade oil should be used for any engine. The added expense is ridiculously small compared to the cost of the outboard engine, or overhaul.

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FUEL

4-1 INTRODUCTION

The carburetion and ignition principles of two-cycle engine operation MUST be understood in order t o perform a proper tune- up on an outboard motor.

If you have any doubts concerning your understanding of two-cycle engine operation, i t would be best t o study t h e operation theory section in t h e f i rs t portion of Chap- t e r 3, before tackling any work on t h e fuel system.

4-2 GENERAL CARBURETION INFORMATION

The carburetor is merely a metering device for mixing fuel and air in t h e proper proportions for efficient engine operation. At idle speed, an outboard engine requires a mixture of about 8 par ts a i r t o 1 par t fuel. At high speed or under heavy duty service, t h e mixture may change t o as much as 12 par ts a i r t o 1 par t fuel.

Float Systems A small chamber in t h e carburetor serv-

es as a fuel reservoir. A float valve admits

Float properly adjusted. Notice how the surface of the float is parallel with the surface of the carburetor.

fuel into the reservoir t o replace t h e fuei consumed by t h e engine.

Fuel level in each chamber is ext remely cr i t ica l and must be maintaine6 accurately. Accuracy is obtained through proper adjustment of t h e f loat . This adjustment will provide a balanced metering of fuel t o each cylinder a t all speeds.

Following the fuel through i t s course, from t h e fuel tank to the combustion chamber of t h e cylinder, will provide an appreci- ation of exact ly what is taking place. In order t o s t a r t t h e engine, t h e fuel must be moved from t h e t ank t o t h e carburetor by a squeeze bulb installed in t h e fuel line.

The fuel systems for engines covered in this manual a r e equipped with a manually- operated squeeze bulb in t h e line t o t ransfer fuel from t h e tank t o t h e engine until t h e engine s tar ts .

After t h e engine s ta r t s , t h e fuel passes through t h e fuel pump t o t h e carburetor. All systems have some type of f i l ter installed somewhere in t h e line between t h e tank and t h e carburetor.

Typical fuel line with squeeze bulb and quick? disconnect fitting at each end. These items may be purchased as an assembled unit.

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4-2 FUEL

At the carburetor, t h e fuel passes through t h e inlet passage t o t h e needle and sea t , and then into t h e f loat chamber (reservoir). P f loat in t h e chamber rides up and down on the surface of the fuel. Af te r fuel enters t h e chamber and t h e level rises t o a predetermined point, a tang on t h e f loat closes t h e inlet needle and t h e fuel flow entering the chamber is cutoff. When fuel leaves t h e chamber a s t h e engine operates , the fuel level drops and the f loat tang allows t h e inlet needle t o move off i t s seat and fuel once again enters the chamber. In this manner a constant reservoir of fuel is maintained in the chamber to satisfy t h e demands of t h e engine at all speeds.

A fuel chamber vent hole is located near t h e top of t h e carburetor body t o permit atmospheric pressure t o a c t against t h e fuel in each chamber. This pressure assures an adequate fuel supply t o the various operating systems of t h e engine.

Air/Fuel Mixture A suction e f f e c t is created each t i m e

t h e piston moves upward in t h e cylinder. This suction draws a i r through t h e th roa t of t h e carburetor. A restriction in t h e th roa t , called a venturi, controls a i r velocity and has t h e e f fec t of reducing air pressure at this point.

The difference in a i r pressures, a t t h e th roa t and in t h e fuel chamber , causes t h e

Throw-away fuel pump used on some Johnson/Evin- rude engines. The only service possible on this unit is to clean the filter and install a new gasket.

fuel t o be pushed out meter ing jets extending down into the fuel chamber. When t h e fuel leaves t h e jets, i t mixes with t h e a i r passing through t h e venturi. This fuel la i r mixture should then be in t h e proper proportion for burning in the cylinderls for maximum engine performance.

In order t o obtain the proper air/fuel mixture for all engine speeds, high- and low- speed needle valves a r e installed. On late- model engines, t h e high-speed needle valve was replaced with a high-speed orifice. There is no adjustment with t h e orif ice type. These needle valves a r e used t o compensate fo r changing atmospheric conditions. Only 15% t o 20% of t h e engines covered in th is manual have an adjustable high- and low-speed needle valve.

Engine operation at sea level compared with performance at high alt i tudes is qui te noticeable. A th ro t t l e valve controls t h e volume of air lfuel mixture drawn into the engine. A cold engine requires a r icher fuel mixture t o s t a r t and during t h e brief period i t is warming t o normal operating temperature. A choke valve is placed ahead of the meter ing jets and venturi t o provide t h e e x t r a amount of a i r required for s t a r t and while t h e engine is cold.

When this choke valve is closed, a very rich fuel mixture is drawn in to t h e engine.

The throat of t h e carburetor is usually referred t o a s t h e "barrel". Carburetors

l N DUC ED LOW AIR

PRESSURE VENTUR l ,

ATMOSPHERIC AIR PRESSURE

Air flow principle of a modern carburetor

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TROUBLESHOOTING 4-3

installed on engines covered in th is manila1 all have a single metering jet with a single th ro t t l e and choke plate. Single barrel carburetors a r e fed by one f loat and chamber . 4-3 FUEL SYSTEM

The fuel system includes t h e fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel f i l ters, carburetor, fuel lines with a squeeze bulb, and t h e associated par ts t o connect i t all together. Regular maintenance of t h e fuel system t o obtain maximum performance, is limited t o changing the fuel f i l ter a t regular intervals and using FRESH fuel. Even with t h e high price of fuel, removing gasoline t h a t has been standing unused over a long period of t ime is st i l l t h e easiest and leas t expensive preven- t ive maintenance possible.

In most cases th is old gas, even with some oil mixed with i t , can be used without harmful e f fec t s in an automobile using regular gasoline.

If a sudden increase in gas consumption is noticed, or if t h e engine does not perform properly, a carburetor overhaul, including

Damaged piston, possibly caused by insufficient oil mixed with the fuel; using too-low an octane fuel; or using fuel that had flsouredll (stood too long without a preservative additive).

boil-out, or a t tent ion t o t h e fuel pump, may b e required. Some engines have a non- serviceable t hrowavray fuel pump and others have a pump t h a t can be rebuilt. Proce- dures t o service t h e second type pumw a r e given in Section 4-1 1 of this chapter.

4-4 TROUBLESHOOTING

The following paragraphs provide an orderly sequence of t e s t s t o pinpoint problems

OMC fuel conditioner added to the fuel will keep i t fresh for up to one full year.

Commercial additives, such as Sta-bil, may be used to keep the fuel in the tank fresh. Under favorable conditions, such additives will prevent the fuel from "souring" for up to twelve months.

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4 4 FUEL

in the system. If an engine has not been used fo r some t ime and fuel has remained in t h e carburetor, i t is possible t h a t varnish may have formed. Such a condition could b e the cause of hard s tar t ing or complete fai lure of t h e engine t o operate.

Fuel Problems Many t imes fuel system troubles a r e

caused by a plugged fuel f i l ter , a defect ive fuel pump, or by a leak in t h e line f rom t h e fuel tank t o t h e fuel pump. Aged fuel l e f t in the carburetor and t h e formation of varnish could cause t h e needle t o st ick in i t s seat and prevent fuel flow into t h e bowl. A defective choke may also cause problems. WOULD YOU BELIEVE, a majority of s tar t- ing troubles, which a re t raced t o t h e fuel system, a r e t h e result of an empty fuel tank or aged fuel .

Fuel will begin t o sour in th ree t o four months and will cause engine start ing problems. Therefore, leaving the motor si t t ing idle with fuel in t h e carburetor, lines, or tank, during the off-season, usually results in very serious problems. A fuel addit ive such a s Sta-Bil or CPMC 2+4 Fuel Condition- e r may be used to prevent gum from forming during s torage or prolonged idle periods.

For many years the re has been t h e wide- spread belief t h a t simply disconnecting t h e fuel line a t t h e engine or at t h e tank, and then running the engine until i t stops is the proper procedure before storing t h e engine for any length of time. Pight? WRONG!

First , i t is NOT possible t o remove all fuel in t h e carburetor by operating t h e engine until i t stops. Considerable fuel is trapped in the f l o a t chamber, o ther passages , and in t h e line leading t o t h e carburetor. The ONLY guaranteed method of removing ALL fuel , is to t a k e t h e t ime t o remove t h e carburetor and drain the fuel. On all engines using high-speed orif ice carburetors, t h e high-speed orif ice plug can be removed t o drain fuel from t h e carburetor.

Female fuel line connector ready to be mated with the male portion of the connector.

Fuel connector with the O-ring visible. These O- rings have a relatively short life and MUST be replaced at regular intervals, as explained in the text.

Secondly, if t h e engine is operated with t h e fuel supply disconnect a t t h e "quick- disconnect" until i t stops, t h e fuel and oil mixture inside t h e engine is removed, leaving bearings, pistons, rings, and other par ts without any protect ive lubricant.

Proper procedure involves: disconnecting t h e fuel line at t h e tank; operating t h e engine until i t begins t o run ROUGH; then stopping t h e engine, which will leave some fuelfoil mixture inside t h e engine; and finally removing or draining t h e carburetor. By disconnecting t h e fuel supply, all SMALL passages a r e cleared of fuel , even though some fuel is l e f t in t h e carburetor. A l i ~ h t oil should be put in t h e combustion chamber

Fouled spark plug, possibly caused by operator's habit of over-choking or a malfunction holding the choke closed. Either of these conditions will deliver a too-rich fuel mixture to the cylinder.

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TROUBLESHOOTING 4-5

as instructed in the Owner's Manual. On all engines using high-speed orif ice carburetors, t h e high-speed orif ice plug can be removed t o drain fuel from t h e carburetor.

Choke Problems When the engine is hot, t h e fuel system

can cause start ing problems. After a hot engine is shut down, t h e t empera tu re inside t h e fuel bowl may rise t o 2 0 0 " ~ and cause t h e fuel t o actually boil. All carburetors a re vented t o allow this pressure t o escape t o the atmoshphere, Fowever, some of t h e fuel may percola te over t h e high-speed nozzle.

If the choke should st ick in the open position, t h e engine will be hard t o s tar t . If t h e choke should st ick in the closed position, t h e engine will flood making i t VERY diffi- cu l t t o s t a r t .

In order for this raw fuel t o vaporize enough t o burn, considerable a i r must b e added t o lean out the mixture. Therefore, t h e only remedy is t o remove t h e spark plugs; ground the leads; crank the engine through about 10 revolutions; clean t h e plugs; install t h e plugs again; and s t a r t the engine.

If t h e needle valve and s e a t assembly is leaking, an excessive amount of fuel may enter t h e in take manifold in t h e following manner: a f t e r t h e engine is shut down, t h e pressure l e f t in t h e fuel line will fo rce fuel

The choke plays a most important role during engine start and in controlling the amount of air entering the carburetor, under various load conditions.

past the leaking needle valve. This ex t ra fuel will raise t h e level in t h e fuel bowl and cause fuel t o overflow into t h e in take manifold.

A continuous overflow of fuel into t h e intake manifold may be due t o a sticking inlet needle or t o a defect ive f loa t which would cause an ex t ra high level of fuel in t h e bowl and overflow into t h e intake manifold.

FUEL PUMP TESTS

CAUTION: Gasoline will be flowing in the engine area during this test. Therefore, guard against fire by grounding the high-tension wire to prevent i t from sparking.

Testing System with Squeeze Bulb An adequate sa fe ty method is t o ground

each spark plug lead. Disconnect t h e fuel line at t h e "quick-disconnect" at t h e engine. Place a suitable container over t h e end of t h e fuel line t o catch t h e fuel discharged. Insert a small screwdriver into t h e end of t h e line t o open t h e check valve, and then squeeze t h e primer bulb and observe if the re is sa t is factory fuel flow from t h e line.

If the re is no fuel discharged from the line, t h e check valve in t h e squeeze bulb may be defective, or the re may be a break or obstruction in t h e fuel line.

If the re is a good fuel flow, remove t h e fuel lines at t h e carburetors and connect t h e "quick-disconnect" at t h e engine. Crank t h e engine. If t h e fuel pump is operating properly, a healthy s t ream of fuel should pulse ou t of t h e line.

Continue cranking t h e engine and catching the fuel fo r about 15 pulses t o determine if t h e amount of fuel decreases with each pulse or maintains a constant amount. A decrease in t h e discharge indicates a re- strict ion in t h e line. If the fuel line is plugged, t h e fuel s t ream may stop. If t h e r e is fuel in the fuel tank but no fuel flows ou t

Insert a small Screwdriver into the end of the fuel line to open the check valve, as described in the text.

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4-6 FUEL

t h e fue l l ine while t h e engine i s being cranked, t h e problem m a y b e in o n e of severa l areas:

1- Plugged fue l l ine f r o m t h e fue l pump t o t h e carbure tor .

2- Defec t ive O-ring in fue l l ine connec- to r i n t o t h e fuel tank.

3- Defec t ive O-ring in fue l l i ne connec- t o r i n t o t h e engine.

4- Defec t ive fue l pump. 5- The l ine f r o m t h e fuel t a n k t o t h e

fue l pump m a y b e plugged; t h e l ine m a y b e leaking air ; o r t h e squeeze bulb m a y b e defec t ive .

6- Defec t ive fuel tank. 7- If t h e engine does not s t a r t e v e n

though t h e r e is a d e q u a t e fuel f low f rom t h e fue l l ine, t h e fuel in le t needle valve and t h e seat m a y b e gummed toge the r and prevent adequa te fue l flow.

FUEL LINE TEST

O n al l f a c t o r y instal lat ions covered in th i s manual , t h e fue l l ine is provided wi th quick-disconnect f i t t i ngs at t h e t a n k and at t h e engine, as produced by t h e rnanufactur- e r . Owners may instal l a built- in t a n k wi th a permanent- type fue l l ine t o t h e engine. If t h e r e is reason t o be l ieve t h e p h ~ b l e r n is a t t h e quick-disconnects, t h e hose ends c a n b e replaced as an assembly, o r new 0 - r i n p Pray b e instal led. A supply s f new O-rings shoulc' b e ca r r i ed on board f o r use i n i so la ted a r e a s where a mar ine s t o r e is not avai lehle. Fe- p l acemen t procedures a r e h resented in Sec- t ion 4-12.

For a smal l addit ional exnense , t h e sn- t i r e fuel l ine c a n b e replaced and e l i v i n a t -

A typical squeeze bulb with the directional arrow clearly visible. The squeeze bulb must be installed with the arrow pointing in the direction o f fuel flow, toward the engine.

ing th is e n t i r e a r e a as a problem source f o r m a n y f u t u r e seasons.

The pr imer squeeze bulb can b e replaced in a s h o r t t ime. A squeeze h u h assembly k i t , c o m p l e t e wi th t h e check valves installed, m a y b e obta ined f r o m t h e locs l John- son/Evinrude dealer . T h e r ep lacemen t k i t will a lso include t w o t i e s traps ' t o s e c u r e t h e bulb properly i n t h e line.

An a r row is c lear ly visible on t h e squeeze bulb t o indica te t h e d i rec t ion of fue l flow. T h e squeeze bulb MUST b e instal led co r rec t ly in t h e l ine because t h e c h e c k valves in e a c h end of t h e bulb will allow fue l t o f low in ONLY o n e direct ion. The re fo re , if t h e squeeze bulb should b e instal led backwards, in a m o ~ n e n t of h a s t e t o g e t t h e job

Fuel connector with the O-rings visible. These O- rings have a relatively short life and may be the source o f fuel problems. The O-rings MUST be replaced on a regular basis.

Parts in a squeeze bulb replacement kit include the squeeze bulb, two check valves, and two tie straps t o secure the k l b in the line.

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TROUBLESHOOTING 4-7

done. fuel will not reach the carburetor. To replace the bulb, see Section 4- 12.

ROUGH ENGINE IDLE

If an engine does not idle smoothly, t h e most reasonable approach t o t h e problem i s t o perform a tune-up t o el iminate such areas as: defective ignition parts; f au l ty spark plugs; and synchronization out of ad- justm ent.

Other problems t h a t can prevent an en- A set of points unfit for service due to oxidation.

gine from 'running smoothly include: an a i r leak in t h e intake manifold: uneven com- EXCESSIVE FUEL CONSUMPTION

pression between t h e cylind&; and st icky or broken reeds.

Of course any problem in t h e carburetor affecting t h e air/fuel mixture will also prevent t h e engine from operating smoothly at idle speed. These problems usually include: too high a fuel level in the howl; a heavy float; leaking needle valve and seat ; defec- t ive automat ic choke; and improper idle or high-speed needle valve adjustments.

"Sour" fuel (fuel l e f t in a tank without a preservative additive) will cause an engine t o run rough and idle with g rea t difficulty.

If t h e fuel/oil mixture is too strong on t h e oil side, t h e engine will run rough. The only solution t o th is problem is t o drain t h e fuel and fill t h e tank with a FRESH AC- CURATE mixture.

Excessive fuel consumption can result from one of t h r e e conditions, or a corn h im- tion of all three.

1- Inefficient engine operation. 2- Damaged condition of t h e hull, in-

cluding excessive marine growth. 3- Poor boating habits of t h e operator. If t he fuel consumption suddenly increas-

e s over what could be considered normal, then t h e cause can probably h e a t t r ibuted t o t h e engine or boat and not t h e operator.

Marine growth on the hull can have a very marked e f f e c t on boat performance. This is why sail boats always t r y t o have a haul-out as close to race t i m e a s possible. While you a r e checking the bottom take note of t h e propeller condition. A ben t blade or other damage will definitely cause poor boat

If the hull and propeller a r e in good shape, then check t h e fuel system for possible leaks. Check t h e line between the fuel pump and t h e carburetor while t h e engine is running and t h e line between the fuel tank and t h e pump when t h e engine is not running. A leak between t h e tank and t h e pump many t imes will not appear when t h e engine is operating, because t h e suction c rea ted by

EL

Cross-sectional view of a spark plug showing the principle parts with important comments for satisfactory service. whenever the engine fans to perform properly.

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4-8 FUEL

fuel t o leak. Once t h e engine is turned off and the suction no longer exists, fuel may begin t o leak.

If a minor tune-up has been performec! and t h e spark plugs, ignition parts , and synchronization a r e properly adjusted, then t h e problem most likely is in t h e carburetor, indicating an overhaul is in order. Check for leaks at t h e needle valve and seat. l l s e e x t r a c a r e when making any adjustments affect ing t h e fuel consumption, such as the float level or automat ic choke.

ENGINE SURGE

If the engine operates a s if the load on t h e boat is being constantly increased and decreased, even though an a t t e m p t is being made t o hold a constant engine speed, t h e problem can most likely be a t t r ibuted t o t h e fuel pump.

Operational description and service procedures for t h e rebuildable fuel pump a r e given in Section 4- 11.

4-5 JOHNSON/EVINRUDE CARBURETORS

This section provides complete detailed procedures for: removal; disassembly; cleaning and inspecting; assembling including bench adjustments; installation; and operating adjustments fo r t h e four OMC carburetors installed on engines covered in this manual.

The Type I carburetor is a downdraft carburetor installed on t h e 50 hp t o 85 hp V4

Marine growth allowed to accumulate on the lower unit will create !!dragv, seriously hampering boat performance. The growth will corrode the metal if it is not removed.

Damaged propeller unfit for further service.

engines. The Type I1 is a f rontdraf t carburetor installed on t h e 90 hp and 100 hp V4 engines. The Type I11 is a f ron tdra f t carburetor used on t h e 55 hp and 60 hp, 3-cylinder engines. The Type IV is a f rontdraf t carburetor used on t h e 85 hp to 125 hp V4 engines. These carburetors a r e equipped with e i ther a manual choke, an e lect r ic choke, a h e a t choke, water choke, or an override choke. The manual backup permits t h e operator t o operate the choke in t h e even t t h e ba t t e ry is dead. The following t ab le l ists the types of carburetors installed on t h e various horsepower and model years f o r engines covered in this manual.

A rebuilt propeller ready for service.

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TYPE I CARBURETOR 4-9

CARBURETOR INSTALLATIONS

Type IA

Downdraft, double barrel with high-speed and low-speed

needle valves. 50 hp -- 1958 and 1959 60 hp -- l a 6 4 and 1965

75 hp -- 1960

Type IB

Downdraft, double barrel with fixed high-speed orif ice

and low-speed needle valve. 60 hp -- 1966 and 1967

65 hp -- 1968 75 hp -- lo61 th ru 1O65 80 hp -- 1966 and 15267

85 hp -- 1968

Type 11

Frontdraft , four barrel with f ixed high-speed orif ice and

low-spee6 needle valve. 90 hp -- 1964 and 1965

100 hp -- 1966 thru 1968

Type 111

Three carburetors per enpine. Frontdraft , single barrel with

fixed high-speed or if ice and low-speed needle valve.

55 hp -- 1968 and 1969 60 h~ -- 1970 and 1P71

65 hp -- 1972 (Uses th is carburetor, but engine is

covered in Volume IV Manual) -

Type IVA

Two carburetors per engine. Frontdraf t, double barrel

with low-speed needle valve and fixed high-speed or if ice.

85 hp -- 1969 thru 1971 100 hp -- 1971

1 15 hp -- 1969 and 1970 125 hp -- 1971

Type IVB

with fixed low-speed and high-speed orif ices.

85 hp -- 1972 100 hp -- 1972 125 hp -- 1972

4-6 TYPE IA CARBURETOR DOWNDRAFT, DOUBLE BARREL WITH HIGH- AND LOW-SPEED NEEDLE VALVES 50 HP - 1958 AND 1959 60 HP - 1964 AND 8965 75 HP - 1960

TYPE IB CARBURETOR SAME AS TYPE IA EXCEPT WITH HIGH-SPEED FIXED ORIFICE 60 HP -- 1966 AND 1967 65 HP - 1968 75 HP - 1961 THRU 1965 80 HP - 1966 AND 1967 85 HP - 1968

DESCRIPTION The Type I carburetor has a double

throat , commonly referred t o as a "double barrel". Figh speed operation of large horsepower engines requires a g rea t deal of air . In order t o retain t h e efficiency and fuel economy of small horsepower engines with relatively small carburetor throats, a double th roa t ("barrel") is used instead of one large single throat . A single throat would b e wasteful of fuel and unresponsive at low speed operation. Air velocit ies become too low for proper air/fuel mixing and vaporization. To solve this problem, carbure tors with t w e or more throats a r e used.

When facing t h e f ront of t h e carburetor, t h e l e f t barrel crosses and feeds t h e No. 2 and No. 4 cylinders, port bank. The right barrel feeds t h e No. I and No. 3 cylinders, starboard bank.

SPECIAL WORDS Since both t h e Type lA and IB carbure-

tors a r e identical excep t fo r t h e high-speed

Type IA carburetor, downdraft, double barrel, with high-speed and low-speed needle valves. This unit is used on the engines listed at the head of this column.

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4- 10 FUEL

Type IB carburetor with high-speed orifice and water choke. Engines listed on Page 4-9, use this unit.

adjustable needle valve and t h e venturis on t h e very early model engines, 1958 t o 1965, t h e following service procedures will cover t h e Type IB, with a fixed high-speed orifice. The differences, due t o the high-speed needle valve used on a few of t h e ear ly model engines, will b e clearly indicated.

L ,

Choke Systems These carburetors a r e equipped with

e i ther a manual choke, an e lect r ic choke, a hea t choke, water choke, or an override choke. The manual backup permits t h e operator t o operate the choke in the event t h e ba t t e ry is dead. See Section 4-8 t o service t h e choke system.

REMOVAL

1- Disconnect t h e fuel line at t h e engine and at t h e fuel tank, by separating t h e quick-disconnect. Disconnect the cables at t h e ba t t e ry terminals. Remove t h e hood.

2- Disconnect t h e advance th ro t t l e linkage between t h e tower shaf t and t h e carburetor. This is accomplished either by removing t h e two setscrews and then t h e rod, or by removing the screw on the cam. If this screw is removed, be sure t o thread a nut onto the screw t o prevent losing the parts. Remove t h e return spring.

3- Remove e i ther t h e choke wire t o the choke, or t h e water lines, if a water choke

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TYPE I CARBURETOR 4- l l

is used. If a h e a t choke is used, d isconnect t h e h e ~ t tube . P e v o v e t h e t h r e e bol t s securing the ca rbu re to r t o t h e rranifold. Cne hol t is l oca t ed sn e s c h s ide of t h e ca rbu re to r and t h e thirS comes up throuph t h e vamidcl8 f rom t h e bot tor r . L i f t t h e ca rbu re to r f r e e cf t h e m a r if ol d an8 rernove t h e fue l l ine f r o v t b e Sack sick. Pear-in- mind, th is f~rel Li~e MUST h e connec ted h e f c r e d.)-:c cc?r!wrs.tor is p lace8 in pc+sition on t h e ~ m i f e l 8 ~

Choke Removal and Service C .#ee t b ~ a r i r r c ~ r i ~ t e port inn of e c t i c n 4-

8, cf th i s cPapter fPr r e r c v a l ?red se rv i ce prccec'ures c c v e r i r y t h e par t icu lar choke i r s t c . l l ~ t i w or t h e anpine be in^ serviced.

w

CARBURETOR DISASSEMBLING

4- Remove all s c rews f r o m t h e t o p of t h e carbure tor . No t i ce t h e o n e sc rew on t h e po r t s ide t h a t passes through a smal l elon- g a t e d clip. This cl ip s e c u r e s t h e choke c a m in place. R e m e m b e r under which s c r e w t h i s cl ip is secured. Carburetor with High-speed Adjustment

5- A f t e r a l l t h e sc rews on t o p of t h e ca rbu re to r have been removed: no t i ce t h a t two s c r e w s pass through t h e c a p cover ing t h e high-speed ad jus tmen t needle valve. R e m o v e t h e "E" c l ip f rom t h e smal l rod be tween t h e two high-speed needle valves. Pull t h e rod, wi th knob a t t a c h e d , f r ee . TAKE CARE n o t t o lose t h e washers and spring in t h e ca rbu re to r r eces s f r o m which t h e rod was removed. R e m o v e t h e cap.

6- P n ca rbure to r s ~ 4 t h t h e high-speed acrjustwent, both high-speed needles r rus t h e r e v o v e d BEFORE t h e ca rbu re to r cove r is

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4-12 FUEL

removed. Simply ro ta te t h e needles COUNTERCLOCKWISE until they a r e f ree .

7- Lif t t h e top of t h e carburetor f rom t h e body. Turn t h e t o p upside down. Notice t h a t t h e top contains t h e f loat and t h e needle and seat .

8- Remove and DISCARD t h e hinge pin from t h e float. A carburetor repair k i t contains a new f loat and hinge pin.

9- Remove t h e needle valve from t h e sea t , and then remove t h e seat f rom t h e carburetor. I t is not necessary t o be careful with t h e seat because a NEW s e a t should be installed during a carburetor overhaul.

10- Remove and discard t h e gasket.

SPECIAL WORDS Two gaskets a r e inclu8ed in t h e replace-

ment kit. One is used with carburetors having t h e fixed high-speed orifice, and t h e other gasket is used with t h e carburetors with the adjustable high-speed needle. THEREFORE t a k e note of t h e gasket removed, t o ensure t h e NEW gasket installed is t h e proper one fo r t h e carburetor being serviced.

11- F emove and DISCARD t h e small 0- ring from t h e side of t h e th ro t t l e advance c a m roller, then remove t h e roller.

12- Remove t h e low-speed adjusting knob, by removing t h e screw in t h e center of t h e knob, and then pull t h e knob f ree .

13- Loosen t h e packing nut. P n t a t e t h e low-speed adjusting needle COUNTER- CLOCKWISE until i t is f r e e of the carburetor body.

14- Remove t h e low-speed packing nut and t h e packing f rom t h e carburetor.

Carburetors with High-speed Adjustment 15- Femove t h e low-speed adjustment

needle by pushing in on t h e knob, and then using a screwdriver, r o t a t e t h e needle COUNTERCLOCKWISE until i t is f r e e of t h e carburetor body. Femove and DISCARD t h e O-ring.

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16- On t h e carburetor body: remove t h e two screws securine; t h e venturis in place, and then remove both venturis.

17- Remove t h e O-ring from around t h e high-speed tube. Use t h e proper s ize screwdriver and ro ta te t h e high-speed tube COUNTERCLOCKWISE until i t is f r e e of t h e carburetor body. Remove t h e o ther high-speed tube in a similar manner.

Carburetors with High-speed Adjustment 18- Remove t h e two screws securing t h e

venturis in place, and then remove both venturis. The high-speed tube is pa r t of the venturi and will come f r e e with t h e venturi.

TYPE I CARBURETOR 4- 13

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4-14 FUEL

19- Remove t h e two 7/16" drain orif ice plugs. These plugs a r e located on t h e bottom side of t h e carburetor in front.

20- Use the proper size screwdriver or special tool OF4C No. 317002, and remove t h e high-speed or if ices.

GOOD WORDS On some carburetors, even though a

high-speed needle valve is used, a high- speed orif ice is also used. Check t o determine if t h e high-speed needle valve opening has an or if ice.


NEVER dip rubber parts, plast ic parts , o r nylon parts, in carburetor cleaner. These par ts should be cleaned ONLY in solvent and then blown dry with compressed air.

Place all me ta l pa r t s in a screen- type t r a y and dip them in carburetor cleaner until they appear completely clean, then wash with solvent, or clean water , and blow dry with compressed air.

Blow ou t all passages in t h e castings with compressed air. Check all par ts and passages t o be sure they a r e not clogged or contain any deposits. NEVER use a piece of wire or any typ-e of pointed instrument t o clean drilled passages or calibrated holes in a carburetor.

Move t h e th ro t t l e shaf t back-and-f or th t o check for wear. If t h e shaf t appears t o be too loose, replace t h e complete th ro t t l e

GOOD WORN

Cross sectional drawing to allow comparison of a new needle and seat ( le f t ) , and badly worn one (right).

body because individual replacement par ts a r e NOT available.

Inspect the main body, airhorn, and ven- tu r i cluster gasket surf aces fo r cracks and burrs which might cause a leak. Check t h e f loa t for deterioration. Check t o be sure t h e f loa t spring has not been stretched. If any par t of t h e f loat is damaged, t h e unit must be replaced. Check t h e f loat arm needle contacting surface and replace t h e f loa t if this surface has a groove worn in i t .

Inspect t h e tapered section of t h e idle adjusting needles and replace any t h a t have developed a groove.

Check t h e orif ices for cleanliness. The orifice has a stamped number. This number represents a drill size. Check t h e orif ice with t h e shank of t h e proper size drill t o verify t h e proper or if ice is used. The local

Comparison of a worn and new carburetor adjusting screw. The upper screw is unfit for further service.

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Exploded drawing of the Type IA carburetor on@ vwter ckoke assembly.

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4-16 FUEL

OMC dealer will be ab le t o provide t h e cor rec t size orif ice for t h e engine and carburetor being serviced.

Most of the par ts t h a t should b e replaced during a carburetor overhaul a r e included in overhaul kits available from your local marine dealer. One of these kits will contain a matched fuel inlet needle and seat. This combination should b e replaced each t i m e t h e carburetor is disassembled as a precaution against leakage.

-

GOOD

Comparison of worn and new needle valve. The top needle is unfit for further service.

Exploded drawing of the Type IB carburetor and water choke assembly.

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ASSEMBLING TYPE I CARBURETOR.

1- Install t h e high-speed orif ices. Use special tool, 0 P C No. 317002, o r a proper s i ze screwdr iver .

2- Af te r t h e orif i ce s a r e instal led, t h r e a d t h e or i f ice plugs i n t o place. Use NEW gaskets when instal l ing t h e or i f ice plugs.

3- Lubr ica te t h e high-speed t u b e 0- rings wi th lipbt-weight oil. Slide t h e O-ring on to t h e t u b e an6 then th read t h e t u b e CLOCKWISE in t o t h e ca rbu re to r body. Tighten t h e tube.

Install t h e o the r high-speed needle t u b e in t h e s a m e manner .

4- Place t h e t w o ventur i s over t h e high- speed tubes an8 s t a r t t h e retaining screws. Pring. t h e screws UP just SNUG. DO NOT t ighter . t h e r at th i s t ime. Carburetors with High-speed Adjustment

5- P l a c e a NEW gaske t in position on t h e carbanretcr b s se , and t h e n instal l a ven tu r i intci t h e ca rbu re to r throa t . Inst211 t h e ven- trrris with t h ~ reteininp screws, h u t DO NOT t i pb ten the s c r e w at this t ime.

6- hr;easr*re f mm- e a c h side c\f t h e ven- t u t i tc! c e r t e r the v e n f ~ r i in t h e throa t . A

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4-18 FUEL

available for use on the Type I carburetor with fixed high-speed orif ices. Tighten t h e venturi at this time. Install the second venturi in t h e s a m e manner.

7- Slide the packing onto the low-speed needle, and then thread t h e needle in to t h e carburetor body just enough t o hold i t in place. DO NOT t ighten i t even snugly at this t ime.

8- Thread t h e packing nut into the carburetor body FINGER tight. Push t h e k n ~ b onto t h e adjusting needle and then secure i t in place v i t h t h e screw. R o t a t e t h e low- speed adjusting needle CLOCKWISE until i t just barely seats , then back i t ou t 1-112 turns, a s a preliminary adjustment. Tighten t h e packing nut t o hold th is preliminary adjustment.

Carburetor with High-speed Adjustment 9- Place a NEW O-ring in to t h e carbu-

retor opening for the low-speed valve. Squirt just a drop of oil onto t h e O-ring. push in on the knob, and a t t h e s a m e t i m e thread t h e low-speed needle valve in to t h e carburetor body, using the proper size screwdriver. Tighten t h e needle valve until i t just BARELY seats , then back i t ou t 1-112 turns, a s a preliminary adjustment. Install

t h e second low-speed needle valve in the s a m e manner.

10- Place t h e cam roller onto t h e throt- t l e shaf t , and then install a NEW O-ring onto t h e side of t h e roller.

11- Place a MEW gasket in position on t h e carburetor body.

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Carburetor with High-speed Adjustment 12- Insert a NEW O-ring in to each oDen-

ing fo r t h e high-speed needle valve. squir t just a drop of oil onto each O-ring.

13- Place a NEW gasket in position on t h e carburetor body. This gasket MUST lay over t h e top of t h e O-rings.

14- Install t h e seat into the carburetor cover with a NEW gasket. TAKE CARE not t o damage t h e seat . Insert a drop of oil into t h e seat and then install t h e inlet needle.

15- Install a NEW f loat into t h e holder, and t h e n a NEW hinge pin.

16- Hold the carburetor cover upsidedown, and observe t h e f loat position. The f loa t should be parallel with cover surface. If t h e f loat i s not positioned properly, CAREFULLY bend t h e f loa t arm at a point close to f loat on both sides. This is accomplished by holding t h e arm as close t o the f loat a s possible, and then moving t h e f loa t SLIGHTLY in the desired direction.

17- Lower t h e cover down over t h e carburetor with t h e f loat properly positioned in t h e body.

18- Secure the cover with t h e screws. REMEMBER t h e small tang t h a t must be installed under one of t h e screws on t h e Dort

- 1- - - -

side of t h e carburetor. Tighten t h e screws a1 ternate l y and securely.

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4-20 FUEL

Carburetors with High-speed Adjustment 19- Lubricate the high-speed needle

valve O-rings with light-weight oil. Slide t h e O-ring onto t h e needle, and then thread t h e needle CLOCKWISE in to t h e carburetor body. Tighten the needle valve just SNUG- LY, then back i t o u t COUNTERCLOCKWISE 314 turn as a preliminary adjustment. Check t o be sure t h e O-ring is sea ted proper ly in the recess of t h e carburetor body.

Install and ad just t h e other high-speed needle valve in the s a m e manner.

20- Install t h e c a p over t h e high-speed adjustment knobs and secure them in place with t h e screws.

21- Work t h e center high-speed adjustment knob through t h e housing, washers, and spring, and into the carburetor body. Lif t up on t h e bottom washer and install t h e retaining E-clip.

See the choke sections t o service the choke system installed on t h e engine being serviced.

22- Position a NEW gasket in place on t h e intake manifold, and then install the carburetor with t h e inlet hose towards t h e rear of the carburetor. Secure the carburetor in place with t h e t h r e e retaining screws, one on each side and t h e third f rom t h e bottom in t h e center.

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TYPE I CARBURETOR 4-2 1

23- Connect t h e choke linkage, hoses, or wiring, fo r t h e choke system used on t h e engine being serviced.

24- Connect the advance arm from t h e tower shaf t to t h e carburetor.

To synchronize the carburetor with t h e ignition system, see Chapter 5.

25- Mount the engine in a test tank or body of water. If th is is not possible, connect a flush a t t achment and garden hose t o t h e lower unit. NEVER opera te t h e engine above idle speed using t h e flush attachment. If t h e engine is operated above idle speed with no load on t h e propeller. t h e engine could RUNAWAY resulting'in seiious damage or destruction of the unit.


Sta r t the engine and allow i t t o warm t o operating temperature at about 500 rpm.

Back o u t t h e low-speed adjustment need- dle COUNTERCLOCKWISE until t h e engine begins t o run rough. From this point, r o t a t e t h e adjustment needle inward, CLOCKWISE, very slowly until engine performance smooths out.

Repeat this procedure for t h e o ther needle.

Carburetors with High-speed Adjustment 26- The engine MUST b e mounted in an

adequate size test tank or body of water, preferably with a test wheel a t t ached t o t h e propeller shaft . Push upward on t h e knob in t h e center between t h e two high-speed needle valves, and then turn i t 180'. This will t a k e t h e knob out of engagement with t h e two needle valves.

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4-22 FUEL

27- S t a r t t h e engine and increase engine rpm t o full advance thrott le. R o t a t e t h e high-speed needle CLOCKWISE until engine rpm begins t o drop. (Illustration shows carburetor not mounted.) From this point, r o t a t e the adjustment needle COUNTER- CLOCKWISE until t h e highest rpm speed is at tained. R e p e a t the procedure for t h e o ther high-speed needle valve. Af te r t h e adjustments have been made, l i f t t he c e n t e r rod between t h e two needle valves, and r o t a t e the knob 180°, then allow the knob t o re turn t o i t s normal position in mesh with the two high-speed needle valves.

4-7 TYPE 11 CARBURETOR 90 HP - 1964 AND 1965 100 HP - 1966 THRU 1968

DESCRIPTION

The Type I1 carburetor is a f ron td ra f t unit with four th roa t s ("barrels") utilizing fixed high-speed or if i ces and ad justahle low- speed needle valves. The carburetor might actually be described a s four individual carburetors incorporated in to one unit. Four fuel delivery i t ems a r e incorporated t o provide a separa te "barrel", inlet needle and s e a t , f loat , high-speed or if ice, and low- speed adjustment, for each of t h e four cylinders.

As a result of i t s design, construction, and performance demands, t h e carburetor is considered a very complex piece of equipment. Therefore, vrhen servicing t h e Type I1

CHOKE ASSEMBLY

carburetor or when making any adjustments, t h e reader must t a k e ex t ra c a r e t o follow each s t e p carefully and in sequence. 08 NOT ant ic ipate what will be done next, skip a n y s teps thinking they a r e not necessary, or perform ex t ra tasks because of exper ience with o ther carburetor units.

CHOKE SYSTEM A heat- type chchke s y s t e v is i s e d on the

Type I11 carhuretcr , reference illenstretion "A". F'eat is dranrn d r o r t h e exhaust baff le just behind t he exhaaast p la te a t t h t rear O£ the pcwerhead, t h r o w h a pipe te thc c a r h - retor. ?Pis heet v7errrs 3 hi-6neta.I sprinq, vh ich exshads r s its t e v p e r a t u r e rises. The choke is ac t iva te8 throalpb t h e ~ x ~ a n s i c n anc" contract ion ~f t b ~ bi-rretal s ~ r i n ~ .

See S e c t i m h-8 f c r service prcccduse-s.

CARBURETOR REMOVAL

1- Disconnect the cables at t h e b t t e r v terrrinals. R e r w v e t h e hood. Disconnect t h e fuel line at t h e enqine, and a t t h e fuel

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tank, by separating t h e quick-disconnects. Disconnect the fuel hose between t h e fuel pump and t h e carburetor, at t h e carburetor.

2- On t h e starboard side of t h e engine, observe t h e tube extending from t h e exhaust manifold at the rear of the engine t o t h e automat ic choke. Loosen t h e packing gland n u t on each end of the tube, and then slide t h e tube back out of t h e way t o permit removal of the carburetor.

3- On t h e port side of t h e engine, observe the rod extending from the tower shaf t t o a nylon yoke. Remove t h e c o t t e r key and pin from the yoke. Remove t h e

4- Remove the c o t t e r key from t h e bottom side of t h e th ro t t l e cam assembly. TAKE CARE not t o lose t h e two washers and spring a s t h e key is removed. Lif t t h e th ro t t l e cam assembly f r e e of t h e carburet- or. These i t ems must be removed BEFORE the bolts a r e removed securing t h e carburetor t o t h e in take manifold.

5- At the f ront of t h e carburetor, remove t h e hose f rom t h e lower end of t h e shield. Remove t h e shield a t taching screws and then t h e shield.

yoke f roG t h e carburetor.

YPE I I CARBURETOf? 4-23

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4-24 FUEL

6- R e m o v e t h e 10 ca rbu re to r a t t a c h i n g bolts. T h r e e bol t s a r e l oca t ed on t h e s t a r - board side. Loosen these bolts, b u t you will n o t b e ab le t o r emove them a t f i r s t . O n e bol t i s long and e x t e n d s through t h e carbure to r wi th a nut. This bol t h a s t h e ground cab le a t t ached . Another bol t i s l oca t ed on t h e bo t tom of t h e ca rbu re to r . This o n e i s very d i f f icu l t t o r emove and t o install . T h e only adv ice i s PATIENCE. Cont inue removing and loosening t h e bol t s while working t h e ca rbu re to r f r e e of t h e manifold. Do n o t f o r c e t h e ca rbu re to r f r ee . If a l l bo l t s a r e removed o r loosened properly, t h e carbure- to r will c o m e f r e e wi thout diff icul ty.

S e e t h e appropr ia te port ion of Sec t ion 4- 8 t o se rv i ce t h e choke sys tem.

DISASSEMBLING

7- Remove t h e choke wire c l a m p sc rew, and t h e n sh i f t t h e c l a m p s w a y f r o m t h e ca rbu re to r body. Leave t h e c l a m p a t t a c h e d t o t h e wire.

& P e m o v e t h e two screws and b r a c k e t holding t h e overr ide choke fron- t h e bo t tom s ide of t h e ca rbu re to r body. P e m s v e t h e plunger, spring, and smal l rubber washer f r o m t h e choke. These i t e m s must not b e immersed in ca rbu re to r cleaninp, solvent.

9- Observe wha t is t e r m e d t h e "gang bar" on t h e f r o n t s ide of t h e ca rbu re to r body. Remove t h e p las t ic knobs frorn e a c h needle valve.

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TYPE I 1 CARPURFTOR 4-25

"GANG"

w

10- R e m o v e t h e sc rews secur ing t h e "gang" bar. L i f t t h e "gang" bar f ree .

11- Remove t h e fou r screws secur ing t h e cover p l a t e ove r t h e f loa t char rber , and t h e n r emove t h e p la te .

12- Posit ion t h e ca rbu re to r on t h e bench on i t s side, wi th t h e f l o a t chamber f ac ing towards you. Remove all sc rews securinp t h e f loa t chamber t o t h e ca rbu re to r body.

STOP! DO NOT l i f t t h e f l o a t chamber f r o m t h e ca rbu re to r body a t t h i s t ime.

13- t lold t h e f l o a t c h a m p in place and t u r n t h e ca rbu re to r body 180 until t h e f l o z t chamber is f a c i n ~ doa~lnward tovrares t h e bench sur face . L i f t t h e ca rbu re to r body upward away f r o m t h e f l o a t chamber .

14- With t h e f loa t chamber on t h e hench f ac ing upward, no t i ce t h e fou r f l oa t s and fou r needles and seats. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, r each in and rernove t h e four f loats .

15- From t h e outs ide of t h e carDuretor , use a screwdr iver and r emove t h e f l c a t seats, needle seats, and t h e needles.

COVER PLATE

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4-26 FUEL

16- Notice how a spring, small pin, and needle is incorporated in each needle valve. These par ts will b e supplied in a new carbure tor repair kit. If a repair k i t has not been purchased, TAKE CARE not t o lose any of these parts.

17- Remove t h e four drain plugs from t h e carburetor body.

18- Obtain special screwdriver, OMC No. 317002. Use t h e special tool and remove t h e four high-speed orifices.

19- Remove t h e low-speed needle valves by rotating them COUNTERCLOCKWISE until each one is f r e e of t h e carburetor body. Be careful not t o lose t h e washers and spring f rom each needle. These pa r t s a r e NOT included in a repair kit.

20- Use a narrow blade screwdriver and pop the O-ring out of each of t h e four low- speed needle openings.

21- On t h e f loat chamber side of the carburetor, remove t h e four high-speed tube assemblies.

22- Remove t h e gasket, inner metal plate, and second gasket, from t h e carburet- or body.

ORIFICE v!J

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TYPE II CARBURETOR 4-27

SPECIAL WORDS Because of t h e t i m e involved in realign-

ing th ro t t l e valves during assembly, t h e th ro t t l e shaf t should ONLY b e removed if i t is damaged; if the return spring requires replacement; or if t h e th ro t t l e shaf t is bent.

WORN


NEVER clip rubber parts, plastic parts, or nylon parts , in carburetor cleaner. These parts should be cleaned ONLY in solvent, and then b l o w dry with compressed air.

Place all metal par ts in a screen- type t ray a d dip them in carburetor cleaner until they aDpear completely clean, then wash with solvent or clean water , and blow dry v i t h compressed air.

GOOD WORDS I t may be necessary t o have the carbu-

re tor body cleaned at a special shop equipped with a tank and tray large enough t o acco~nrnoda te the ex t ra long body of this Type I1 Carburetor.

Plow out a11 passages in the castincs v i t h c c r p r e s s e d air. c h e c k all marts and passages tc be sure they a r e not cloyped or ccntaisr: m y cEencsits. NEVER use a piece of wire or a r y type of pointer" instrument t o clean &-ille$ passages or calibrate8 holes in a carburetcbr.

GOOD

Comparison of a worn and new carburetor adjusting screw. The upper screw is unfit for further service.

Comparison of worn and new needle valve. The top needle is unfit for further service.

Move the th ro t t l e shaf t back-and-forth t o check for wear. If t h e shaf t appears t o be too loose, replace the complete th ro t t l e body because individual replacement pa r t s a r e NOT available.

Inspect the main body, airhorn, and ventur i cluster gasket surfaces for c racks and burrs which might cause a leak. Check t h e f loat for deterioration. Check t o be sure the f loat spring has not been stretched. If any par t of t h e f loat is damaged, t h e unit must b e replaced. Check t h e f loat arm needle contacting surface and replace t h e f loa t id this surface has a groove worn in it.

Inspect t h e tapered section of t h e idle adjusting needles and replace any t h a t have c'evelsped a groove.

c h e c k t h e orif ices for cleanliness. The orifice has a stamped number. This number represents a drill size. Check t h e orifice v-ith t h e s h m & of t h e prcper size drill t o verify the proper orif ice is used. The local CP'C desler v i l l be able ta arovide t h e cor rec t size orif ice for the engine and car- hbarertor beine serviced.

Frost of the par ts t h a t should be replaced h r i n e a carburetor overhaul a r e included in

GOOD WORN

Cross sectional drawing to allow comparison of a new needle and seat (left), and badly worn one (right).

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4-28 FUEL

B Ca

HEAT CHOKE

ASSEMBL)

\

Exploded drawing of the Type II carburetor.

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TYPE I1 CARBURETOR 4-29

overhaul kits available from your 1oca.l marine dealer. One of these kits will contain a matched fuel inlet needle and seat . This combination should be replaced each t i m e t h e carburetor is disassembled a s a precaution against leakage.

ASSEMBLING THE TYPE I1 CARBURETOR

1- Check t o be sure the inner plate is clean. Position a new gasket t o t h e side of t h e carburetor, then the inner plate, and another new gasket.

2- Install t h e four high-speed tube assemblies. Do not t ighten t h e pla te mounting screws until all four tubes a r e in place. Tighten t h e inner p la te mounting screws ALTERNATELY and EVENLY.

Low-Speed Needle Valve Installation 3- Lubricate each O-ring with just a

drop of oil and then work each ring in to place in the four low-speed needle openings.

4- The E-clip on t h e end of each needle valve should not have been removed. How- ever, if i t was, snap i t into place. Install t h e washer, spring, and second washer onto each of t h e four low-speed needle valves. Install the four low-speed needle valves into t h e carburetor body. Sea t each needle GENTLY and then back i t out 314 turn, as a preliminary adjustment.

High-speed Orifice Installation 5- Install t h e four high-speed orif ices

in to the f loat chamber, using special tool OMC No. 317002.

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4-30 FUEL

6- Install the four orif ice drain plugs using NEW gaskets.

Float Chamber 7- Assemble all four needle sea t s and

have them ready fo r installation. This is accomplished a s follows: s e t t h e s e a t on t h e bench with t h e screwdriver slot facing downward. Install the f iber washer down over t h e seat . Place a new O-ring in place in the seat groove. Insert t h e needle into t h e sea t , then t h e small spring, then t h e pin into t h e center of t h e spring.

CRITICAL WORDS Once the assembled needles a r e install-

ed, t h e f loat chamber cannot be rota ted o r t h e parts will b e dislodged. Therefore, proceed with caution and patience.

8- Position t h e carburetor body with t h e f loa t chamber opening facing towards you. Insert each needle and s e a t in to place f rom the bottom side of t h e f loat chamber. Thread each needle in to t h e f loat chamber just FINGER tight. I t is not important f o r them t o be real t ight at th is time.

9- After all four needles have been threaded into place, t a k e each f loat , one at- a-time, and work t h e f loat down t h e pin with t h e t a b on t h e f loat s e t over t h e pin in t h e needle. The f loat a rm will hold t h e needle in t h e seat .

10- Lay t h e f loa t chamber down on t h e carburetor with t h e opening facing upward. Tighten the four needle seats securely at this t ime.

Exploded &awing of the float chamber, with principle associated parts identified.

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TYPE I1 CARPL'RETOR 4-3 1

Float Adjustment Experience has proven, i t is almost im-

possible t o adjust t h e f loats properly with- o u t t h e special f loat adjustment tool, OMC No. 380546, reference illustration "Bn. This tool is not expensive, but i t is essential t o ensure proper carburetor performance following the service work.

11- Turn t h e f loat body allowing t h e f loa t to hang down and the tangs of each float resting up against t h e needles. In th is position, t h e four f loats will have weight against t h e inlet needle valves. Use t h e adjusting tool. The tool is inserted above t h e f loat t o t h e top of t h e f loat chamber, a s shown.

12- If a needle requires adjustment, move t h e tang inward or outward using t h e adjusting tool.

CRITICAL WORDS I t is MOST important t h a t all four f loats

be adjusted properly and equally t o ensure proper carburetor performance. If one f loa t is just a wee bit ou t of adjustment, t h e cylinder served by t h a t f loat and nkedle valve will not have t h e proper fuel la i r mix-

. . ture.

Special tool OMC No. 380546 must be used to prop erly adjust the float level. This inexpensive tool is inserted above the float and measures the distance to the top o f the float chamber, as described in the tex t .

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4-32 FUEL

After t h e four f loats a r e properly adjusted, set t h e f loat chamber aside with t h e f loats facing upward.

13- Hold t h e assembled f loat chamber in one hand, and then lower the carburetor body down over t h e f loat chamber. Once t h e two have been brough$together, CARE- FULLY ro ta te t h e two 180 and set i t on t h e bench. DO NOT l i f t the f loat chamber from t h e carburetor body.

14- Sta r t all of the retaining screws around t h e perimeter of t h e f loat chamber.

15- Install and secure the drain cover using a new gasket. Check t o be sure t h e ou t le t nipple extends through t h e bottom of t h e carburetor body.

16- Install the choke and choke plunger into t h e bottom side of t h e carburetor body. Connect the linkage.

Override Choke Adjustment Measure the distance f rom the back of

t h e choke t o t h e base of t h e carburetor body, a s shown. This measurement should be 1/2" (12.7 mm). Loosen t h e two screws and slide the override choke inward or outward until t h e proper dimension is obtained. Tighten the two screws t o hold the adjustment.

To install t h e heat choke, see the appropriate portion of Section 4-8.

Choke installed on top of the carburetor, as on late model 100 hp engines.

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17- Move t h e choke wire towards t h e ca rbu re to r and s e c u r e t h e wire c l a m p wi th t h e a t t a c h i n g screw.

18- Install t h e "gang bar" over t h e t o p of t h e four needles. Secu re t h e "gang bar" in p lace wi th t h e re ta in ing clip. DO NOT instal l t h e nylon adjust ing knob a t t h i s t ime. Carburetor Installation

19- R e m o v e t h e t h r e e bol t s mere ly loos- e n e d during removal of t h e ca rbu re to r f r o m t h e in t ake manifold. Posi t ion a NEW gaske t in p lace on t h e manifold.

20- S t a r t t h e t h r e e bol t s just r emoved in t h e previous s tep . Sl ide t h e ca rbu re to r i n to p lace on t h e in t ake manifold and s e c u r e i t in p lace wi th t h e mounting bolts. T ighten t h e bol t s ALTERNATELY and EVENLY. Do n o t f o r g e t t h e ground s t r a p secured by o n e of t h e ca rbu re to r mounting bolts.

TYPE I I CARBURETOR 4-33

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4-34 FUEL

21- Install the shield with t h e a t taching hardware. Connect t h e hose a t t h e lower end of the shield. Install and connect the fuel line between the carburetor and t h e fuel pump. Connect the override choke wire connector.

22- Slide t h e th ro t t l e cam assembly down into the carburetor retainer, and at t h e s a m e t i m e work up t h e washer, spring, and other washer, then secure them with t h e c o t t e r key. As an aid t o accomplishing th i s

task , use a screwdriver between the flywheel guard and t h e top of t h e tower s h a f t t o hold i t while t h e washers and spring a r e worked upward. As t h e tower shaf t i s lowered into place, make sure t h e roller on t h e end of t h e th ro t t l e cam rides on t h e th ro t t l e cam.

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CHOKE SYSTEM 4-35

23- Install the yoke t h a t is a t t ached t o t h e rod extending f rom t h e tower shaf t t o t h e throt t le cam assembly. At tach the clevis on t h e end of t h e yoke and insert t h e pin t o hold i t in place, then t h e washer, and finally t h e co t t e r pin.

To synchronize t h e fuel system with t h e ignition system, s e e t h e appropriate sect ion in Chapter 5.

24- Mount the engine in a test tank or body of water. If th i s i s not possible, connect a flush a t t achment and garden hose to t h e lower unit. NEVER opera te t h e engine above idle speed using t h e flush attachment. If t h e engine is operated above idle speed with no load on t h e propeller, t h e engine could RUNAWAY resulting in serious damage or destruction of t h e unit.

CAUTION. Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump.

25- Sta r t the engine and allow i t t o warm t o operating temperature at about 500 rpm .

Back ou t each low-speed adjustment needle COUNTERCLOCKWISE until t h e engine begins to run rough. From this point, ro ta te each adjustment needle inward,

CLOCKWISE very slowly until engine performance smooths out. If t h e engine should "POP" while the adjustment is being made, t h e adjustment is already too lean.

After all needles have been properly adjusted, snap t h e knobs over t h e low-speed needles and "gang bar".

4-8 CHOKE SYSTEM SERVICE

FIRST, THEW WORDS JohnsonJEvinrude carburetors may be

identified by t h e type of choke system used. One has a hea t and e lect r ic combination choke; t h e second has an all e lect r ic choke; and the third a water choke. Detailed instructions will be given in this section f o r r e m o v a ' o f the th ree different types of choke systems. This section also provides detailed instructions t o disassemble, service, assemble, and install t h e various choke systems.

EACH carburetor has only one choke system installed. Perform one of t h e following th ree procedures depending on t h e choke system installed on t h e carburetor of t h e engine being serviced.

HEATIELECTRIC CHOKE - REMOVAL

GOOD WORDS Perform only one of the th ree following

choke installation procedures, depending on t h e type of unit being serviced. After t h e choke and carburetor have been properly installed onto the engine, proceed directly t o t h e adjustment portion of this section t o operate the engine for tes t ing and carburetor adjustments under load.

On the 90 hp and 100 hp engines, t h e heat choke is mounted on top of t h e carbure to r and the e lec t r i c portion is at the bottom of t h e carburetor.

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4-36 FUEL

On all other engines covered in this manual, the heat choke is mounted on t h e side of the carburetor and t h e e lec t r i c portion is a pa r t of t h e heat choke.

The carburetor does NOT have t o be removed in order t o service t h e choke system. S t e p No. 1 need only be performed if t h e carburetor is t o be removed.

1- Observe t h e compression nut under t h e plate securing t h e heat tube t o t h e exhaust manifold. Loosen t h e nut and sl ide i t back on the hea t tube. At t h e other end of t h e heat tube is another compression nut securing the tube in the choke chamber of t h e carburetor. Loosen t h e compression nu t and slide i t back on t h e tube. Remove t h e heat tube f rom t h e engine.

2- Observe t h e marks on t h e cover plate and on t h e base. Notice t h e cover p la te has only one mark, but the base has several marks. Identify t h e relationship of t h e cover plate and the marks on t h e base t o ensure the cover p la te will b e installed back in to i t s original position. Remove t h e th ree screws securing t h e cover p la te t o t h e choke base.

3- Lif t the cover and gasket f rom t h e choke base. Observe t h e cover has a spring on the inside. This spring performs a very important role in t h e choke system. As t h e hea t from the exhaust manifold moves through t h e tube and around t h e spring, t h e spring expands and releases i t s pressure on t h e choke. Also notice how t h e spring is a t t ached t o the choke lever. The s ~ r i n n is

a t t ached t o a plunger which ac tua tes t h e e lect r ica l par t of t h e choke system.

4- Remove t h e two screws securing t h e e lec t r i c choke solenoid t o the carburetor. Remove t h e solenoid and t ake c a r e t o retain t h e spring inside the solenoid. Remove t h e choke solenoid gasket.

5- Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, reach inside t h e choke base and remove t h e spring f rom the choke lever. Lower the spring and plunger f rom t h e carburetor. Fur ther disassembly of the combination heat/electrical choke is not necessary. If t h e choke is t o be assembled without rebuilding t h e carburetor, proceed with t h e following steps. If t h e carburetor is t o be

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CHOKE SYSTEM 4-37

rebuilt at this t ime, proceed t o t h e appropr ia te section, depending on t h e unit being serviced.

HEATIELECTRIC CHOKE INSTALLATION

1- Install t h e choke plunger and spring by hooking t h e spring in to t h e choke lever.

2- Insert a NEW gasket into t h e cavity of t h e choke base. Insert t h e spring in to t h e - bore of t h e choke solenoid.

3- Work t h e choke solenoid up t h e plung- e r and secure the plunger with t h e two retaining screws.

4- Place a NEW gasket onto the surface of t h e carburetor.

5- Install the choke cover onto t h e carburetor. Observe how t h e spring has a clip and the choke lever has a protrusion. The clip MUST f i t around t h e lever and protrusion.

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4-38 FUEL

6- Align the mark on the cover plate with t h e matching mark on t h e carburetor. Secure t h e cover p la te in this position with t h e th ree at taching screws.

7- Connect the heat tube t o the engine and secure i t in place with t h e compression n u t at each end.

Typical electric/heat choke installation on top of the carburetor. This arrangement is used on the 90 hp and lOOhp V 4 engines.

ALL ELECTRIC CHOKE - REMOVAL

The e lec t r i c choke is mounted on t h e starboard side of t h e carburetor.

1- Disconnect t h e e lect r ica l wire f rom t h e choke solenoid. Remove t h e c o t t e r key, washers, and pin, f rom t h e choke plunger and pin.

2- Remove the two screws securing the clamp t o t h e carburetor. Remove t h e choke solenoid from the carburetor. The choke solenoid CANNOT be serviced.

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CHOKE SYSTEM 4-39

3- If the boot is unfit for fur ther service, i t may be removed by sliding i t off t h e solenoid. Observe t h e two washers and spring under t h e boot. Take ca re not t o lose these th ree items. Clean t h e solenoid, and then slide t h e boot back in place. The solenoid is then ready t o be installed.

ELECTRIC CHOKE ASSEMBLING

1- Place the choke assembly into t h e choke bracket on t h e carburetor body. In- stall the retainer around the choke and s t a r t t h e two a t taching screws on each side. Shift the choke assembly until the bottom of t h e choke is even with t h e bottom of t h e bracket on the carburetor. R o t a t e t h e choke assembly until t h e choke wires a r e accessible. Tighten t h e screws securely.

2- Install t h e pin through t h e end of t h e s h a f t of the choke solenoid and in to the lever a t tached t o t h e carburetor. Install t h e washer and co t t e r pin. Connect t h e choke wires t o t h e choke.

WATER CHOKE DESCRIPTfCN

An understanding sf exact lv hcw t h e water choke functions is e ssen t id to ensasre t h e service procedures a r e properly performed. F o t water from t h e engine is allowed t o circulate inside a chawber of the choke. As t h e hot water heats t h e spring, t h e metal expands and t h e spring relieves i t s tension on t h e choke. Once t h e tension is released, t h e choke opens.

The hot c i r c u l a t i n ~ water is routed t o t h e port side of t h e en i ine and is discharged into the exhaust chamber. An additional f ea tu re is included in t h e automat ic choke assembly. A spring-loaded diaphragm and plunger assembly, ac t ivated by in take manifold pressure, closes the choke the instant t h e engine is shut down, whether t h e engine is hot or cold. The plunger will release i t s hold on t h e choke only when t h e engine is again started. A t low manifold pressure, with t h e engine operating, t h e spring-loaded plunger is released to open the choke and t h e thermal (water) -system is in control. This system operates independently of the water choke system.

A check valve and orif ice is installed in t h e water system t o prevent flooding of t h e diaphragm when t h e manif old pressure fluc- tua tes during slow speed operation. A punc- ture , or o ther damage, t o t h e diaphragm will cause t h e choke t o be held in t h e closed position at all t imes , when t h e vacuum system is in t h e au tomat ic position. However,

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4-40 FUEL

t h e choke can still b e opened by using t h e manual lever.

During installation of t h e carburetor, considerable a t tent ion must be exercised t o install t h e proper hose t o t h e correct f i t- ting. If the hoses a r e crossed, water will be discharged in to t h e in take manifold and t h e engine, resulting in a series of horrendous problems. This water will then be released f rom the cylinder through the spark plug openings when t h e spark plugs a r e removed and the engine is cranked in an effor t t o s t a r t it .

THEREFORE, t a k e t i m e t o identify t h e hoses to ensure each is correctly connected t o t h e proper carburetor fitting.

WATER CHOKE REMOVAL

1- Remove t h e hoses connected t o the choke, one from t h e top, and t h e other two f rom the bottom. The hose connected t o t h e bottom of t h e choke and closest t o t h e

SPR l

carburetor is the water out1

CHOKE LEVER

t line. The other hose on t h e bottom is t h e vacuum line. The hose connected t o the top of the choke is t h e water inlet line.

2- Observe the mark on t h e choke cover and a matching mark on t h e choke base. These marks must be aligned in the s a m e position when t h e choke is assembled t o t h e carburetor.

3- Remove the th ree screws securing t h e choke cover t o t h e base. Lif t t h e cover f rom t h e carburetor and t a k e notice of t h e spring on t h e inside of t h e cover. This spring relieves pressure on t h e choke as heated hot water f rom t h e engine c i rcula tes through t h e chamber.

4- After t h e cover has been removed, i t is not necessary t o remove t h e choke base f rom the carburetor. Remove t h e four screws securing t h e choke head, and then remove t h e head.

SPR l NG

CHOKE HEAD

0

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CHOKE SYSTEM 4-41

\ D l APHRAGM

5- Notice the diaphragm. Under the diaphragm is a spring. Remove t h e diaphragm and spring f rom the choke head.

6- Remove the small valve and support located under t h e spring.

Further disassembly of t h e water choke valve is not necessary. If t h e choke is t o b e

SPRING,

SUPPORT

VALVE d

assembled without rebuilding t h e carburetor, proceed with t h e following steps. If t h e carburetor is to be rebuilt at this t ime, proceed t o t h e appropriate section.

WATER CHOKE INSTALLATION

1- Install t h e check valve support in to the vacuum opening of the choke body.

2- Install t h e check valve into the head. 3- Install t h e spring onto t h e top of t h e

support. 4- Lower the s tem down through the

spring and diaphragm and onto t h e base. 5- Install the cover and secure i t in

place with t h e a t taching screws. Tighten t h e screws ALTERNATELY a s a precaution against warping t h e cover.

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4-42 FUEL

CHOKE LEVER

6- Take t h e cover assembly and install a new gasket onto t h e base of t h e carburetor. work- the spring clip over t h e protrusion of Install t h e s t a r t e r motor and generator if t h e choke lever and lower i t into t h e cavity. t h e engine being serviced is equipped with 7- Align the mark on t h e cover with t h e these two units, mark on t h e body, and then secure t h e cover Mount t h e engine in a t e s t tank or on t h e in this position with t h e th ree a t taching boat in a body of water. Make any screws. retor adustments under a load condition.

8- Connect the vacuum and water hoses t o t h e carburetor paying careful ATTEN- TION t o connect t h e proper hose t o t h e correct f i t t ing according t o t h e identif ication given t o t h e hoses during disassembly. If identification was not made during disas- semby, follow the hose t o the other end t o HARK ensure proper connection t o t h e carburetor.

a- Connect t h e water hose t o t h e top f i t t ing of t h e water choke.

b- Connect t h e out le t water hose t o t h e f i t t ing closest t o t h e carburetor. The other end of th is line is connected t o a f i t t ing on t h e exhaust chamber on t h e port side of t h e engine.

c- Connect the vacuum line t o t h e vacuum diaphragm fitting. The other end of th i s l ine is connected t o t h e intake manifold.

If t h e hoses a r e not connected correctly, water will h e injected into t h e cylinder when t h e engine is cranked, resulting in a ser ies of horrendous problems.

CHOKE

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TYPE I l l CARBURETOR 4-43

4-9 TYPE In CARBURETOR 55 HP - 1968 and 1969 60 HP - 1970 and 1971

Three carburetors a r e installed on each engine, one for each cylinder.

This carburetor is t h e single barrel, f ron t draf t , with an adjustable low-speed needle valve, and special packing for t h e valve. I t has a fixed high-speed orif ice in t h e f loat bowl.

All of the Type 111 carburetors utilize an e lect r ic choke mounted on t h e side of t h e engine. On most models, t h e e lec t r i c choke does not have t o be removed in order t o remove and service t h e carburetor.

REMOVAL

Preliminary Tasks 1- Disconnect t h e bat tery cables at t h e

ba t t e ry as a precaution against an accidenta l spark igniting the fuel or fuel fumes present during t h e service work. Disconnect t h e quick-disconnect on t h e fuel line t o t h e engine. Remove t h e hood. Disconnect t h e fuel line from t h e junction on t h e port side of t h e engine. This is t h e line f rom t h e fuel pump t o t h e carburetors. Remove the low- speed adjustment lever a t t h e bottom of t h e a i r silencer.

2- Remove t h e air silencer cover, and then the a i r silencer. Disconnect t h e hose at t h e bottom of t h e air silencer. (This hose

is connected to a f i t t ing at the bottom of t h e crankcase.)

3- Disconnect the choke and th ro t t l e linkage between t h e t h r e e carburetors on t h e starboard side of t h e engine. The linkage will snap out of a retainer on t h e carburetor cams. The nylon retainers MUST b e removed before t h e carburetor is immersed in any type of cleaning solution. Disconnect t h e choke wire from t h e e lec t r i c choke, by f i rs t removing the O-ring and coil spring.

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4-44 FUEL

PC- Remove the six nuts securing t h e carburetor t o t h e in take manifold. Identify all of the carburetors as an aid t o installation. The carburetors MUST be installed in thei r original positions. The fuel connections and t h e choke arrangement is d i f ferent fo r each carburetor. The carburetors can now be removed a s an assembly.

SPECIAL WORDS Only one carburetor will be rebuilt in t h e

following procedures. Service of t h e o ther two units is to be performed in t h e same manner .

The carburetor parts should be kept with t h e individual unit t o ensure all i tems a r e installed back in thei r original positions.

DISASSEMBLING

5- Disconnect the fuel hoses between t h e th ree carburetors. This is accomplished by simply cutt ing t h e t i e s t rap or working t h e clip securing t h e hose t o t h e carburetor fitting. Remove the drain plug or t h e high- speed orif ice plug f rom t h e bottom of t h e carburetor bowl.

6- Remove the orif ice from the f loat bowl, using t h e proper size screwdriver o r special OMC tool No. 317002.

7- Remove t h e low-speed needle valve. After removing t h e needle valve, observe and remove t h e retainer t h a t accepts t h e needle valve. Good shop pract ice is t o replace t h e retainer, because t h e retainer is actually t h e component holding t h e needle valve in adjustment. If t h e re ta iner has become worn, i t is not possible t o hold t h e needle valve in an accura te adjustment.

-

GOOD WORDS The low-speed needle valve has a bearing

deep inside t h e carburetor. Removal of th is bearing is no small task. A special tool is

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TYPE I 1 I CARBURETOR 4-45

not available. However, a paper clip with s hook on the end, can be used t o reach inside t h e bore and remove t h e bearing. Actually this bearing is made of plast ic and the needle valve rota tes inside. The bearing centers t h e needle valve in t h e carburetor.

8- Remove t h e low-speed needle valve bearing using a paper clip a s described in t h e previous paragraph.

9- Turn the carburetor upside-down and remove t h e screw securing t h e f loat bowl t o t h e carburetor body. Lif t t h e bowl f r e e of t h e carburetor.

10- Remove and DISCARD t h e bowl gas- k e t and t h e small gasket around t h e high- speed nozzle. The high-speed nozzle is NOT removable.

11- Remove the f loat hinge pin, and then remove t h e float.

Obsolete one-piece gasket. This type gasket will only be found on an older carburetor that has never been r e h i l t . A new two-piece gasket, one for the bowl and the other for the nozzle, replaces the one shown.

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4-46 FUEL

12- Remove t h e inlet needle and seat from t h e carburetor body.


NEVER dip rubber parts, plast ic parts , o r nylon parts, in carburetor cleaner. These par ts should be cleaned ONLY in solvent, and then blown dry'with compressed air.

Place all me ta l par ts in a screen- type t r a y and dip them in carburetor cleaner until they appear completely clean, t h e n wash with solvent o r clean water , and blow dry with compressed air.

Explofled drawing of the Type III carburetor, used on all three-cylinder engines.

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TYPE I1 I CARBURETOR 4-47

Blow ou t all passages in the ccstings with compressed air. Check all par ts and passages t o be sure they a r e not clogged or contain any deposits. NEVER use a piece of wire or any type of pointed instrument t o clean drilled passages or calibrated holes in a carburetor.

Move the th ro t t l e shaf t back-and-forth t o check fo r wear. If t h e shaf t appears t o b e too loose, replace t h e complete th ro t t l e body because individual replacement pa r t s a r e NOT available.

Inspect t h e main body, airhorn, and ven- tu r i cluster gasket surfaces, for cracks and burrs which might cause a leak. Check t h e f loa t for deterioration. Check t o be sure t h e float spring has not been stretched. If any part of t h e f loat is damaged, the unit must be replaced. Check t h e f loa t arm needle contacting surface and replace the f loat if this surface has a groove worn in it.

Inspect the tapered section of t h e idle adjusting needles and replace any t h a t have developed a groove.

Check t h e orif ices for cleanliness. The orif ice has a stamped number. This number represents a drill size. Check t h e orif ice with t h e shank of t h e proper size drill t o verify the proper orif ice is used. The local OMC dealer will be able t o provide t h e c o r r e c t size orif ice for t h e engine and carburetor being serviced.

Most of the par ts t h a t should be replaced during a carburetor overhaul a r e included in overhaul kits available f rom your local marine dealer. One of these kits will contain a matched fuel inlet needle and seat . This combination should be replaced each t i m e t h e carburetor is disassembled as a precaution against leakage.

ASSEMBLING TYPE 111 CARBURETOR

1- Install the inlet seat using t h e proper s ize screwdriver. Inject just a drop of light- weight oil in to t h e seat. Thread t h e in le t needle valve into the seat, and tighten i t until i t barely seats. DO NOT overtighten o r t h e needle valve may be damaged.

GOOD WORD Two different type gaskets a r e used on

this carburetor. One MUST b e installed before the f loat , because i t is a one-piece gasket with t h e nozzle gasket incorporated. The other type consists of two individual gaskets, one fo r t h e f loat and a separa te one fo r t h e nozzle.

2- Position NEW gaskets in place on t h e carburetor body and on t h e nozzle.

3- Lower the f loat down over t h e nozzle, and then slide t h e hinge pin into place.

GOOD

Carburetor idle adjustment screws. The top screw is worn and unfit for service. The bottom screw is new.

WORN

GOOD

WORN

Cross-secnonal drawing to allow comparison of a new needle and seat with one badly worn. Notice how the edges of the worn vlave and the seat have become beveled.

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4-48 FUEL

4- Hold t h e carburetor body in a hori- as shown. If t h e f loat is not parallel, zontal position and check t o be sure the CAREFULLY bend t h e f loat tang until t h e f loa t is parallel t o t h e carburetor surface , f loa t is in a parallel position and both sides

Obsolete one-piece gasket. This type gasket will only be found on an older carburetor that has never been r e k i l t . A new two-piece gasket, one for the bowl and the other for the nozzle, replaces the one shown.

a r e equal distance f rom t h e carburetor sur- f ace.

5- Place the f loat bowl in position, and then secure i t in place with t h e a t taching screws.

6- Install the low-speed re ta iner in the carburetor body.

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TYPE I l l CARBURETOR 4-49

7- Slide the nylon bearing onto the end of t h e low-speed needle valve, and t h e n thread t h e valve into t h e retainer. Continue threading t h e valve in to t h e retainer until i t sea t s LIGHTLY, and then back i t ou t COUN- TERCLOCKWISE 5/8 turn.

WORDS OF CAUTION Take t i m e t o use t h e proper, s ize screw-

driver, or special tool OMC No. 317002, t o install an orif ice. If t h e orif ice is damaged and t h e edge of t h e opening burred, because t h e wrong size screwdriver was used, t h e flow of fuel will be restr icted and t h e

or if i ce will not function properly. Damage t o t h e orif ice will also make i t very difficult t o remove during t h e next carburetor service.

8- Install the high-speed orif ice in to the carburetor bowl, using t h e proper s ize screwdriver t o prevent damaging t h e orifice.

9- Thread t h e plug, with a new gasket, in to place and t ighten i t snugly.

SECOND AND THIRD CARBURETORS

Perform Steps 1 thru 9 t o assemble t h e second and third carburetors.

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4-50 FUEL

INSTALLATION

10- Connect t h e fuel line between the carburetors. Clean t h e mating surface of t h e intake manifold. Check t o be sure all old gasket mater ia l has been removed. Slide a NEW gasket down over the studs into place on t h e manifold. Install t h e th ree carburetors a t the same t i m e onto the studs and secure them in place with t h e nuts. Tighten t h e nuts ALTERNATELY and EVENLY. Connect t h e fuel line between t h e fuel pump and the carburetors.

11- Position a NEW air silencer gasket in p lace on t h e f ront of t h e engine. c o n n e c t t h e hose from t h e crankcase t o the back of the air silencer. C o a t t h e threads of t h e a i r silencer retaining screws with Loct i te and then install t h e air silencer. Install t h e a i r silencer cover and a t t h e same t i m e slide t h e plastic adjusting knob onto t h e low- speed needle for each carburetor. DO NOT push t h e knobs all t h e way home onto t h e needle at this time. You may seriously consider NOT t o install and use t h e piece of linkage connecting the low-speed needle valve of each carburetor.

12- On the starboard side of t h e engine, install t h e choke and th ro t t l e retainers. Connect the choke and th ro t t l e linkage between t h e carburetors. Connect t h e choke coil solenoid wire onto the linkage stud, and

then slide t h e O-ring and coil spring onto t h e s tud t o secure t h e wire in place. Adjust t h e choke but terf l ies by loosening t h e screw between the top and bottom carburetor linkage. The cen te r carburetor is t h e base unit. Adjustments a r e made f rom the cen te r carburetor t o t h e top and bottom carburetors. Make the adjustment t o close t h e upper and lower carburetor choke butterfl ies when t h e center butterfly is closed. After t h e adjust- m e n t is sa t is factory , t ighten t h e screw.

Adjust the th ro t t l e butterfl ies in t h e s a m e manner. Loosen t h e screw between t h e top and center and t h e bottom and

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TYPE 111 CARBURETOR 4-5 1

center carburetor linkage. Make t h e adjustment t o close upper and lower th ro t t l e but- t e r f l y ~ when t h e center butterfly is closed. Af te r t h e adjustment is correct , t ighten t h e screw.

EXPLANATION This linkage permits adjustment of the

t h r e e carburetors simultaneously, while using only one knob. Sounds great! But when t h e one carburetor is adjusted, t h e others a r e also changed. A grea t many professional mechanics have discovered t h a t t h e linkage is not required. They feel i t is f a r more efficient t o adjust each carburetor individually.

GOOD WORDS I t is best t o synchronize t h e fuel and

ignition systems at this time. See Chapter 5. After t h e synchronization has been completed, proceed with t h e following work.

13- Mount the engine in a test tank or body of water. If th is is not possible, connect a flush a t t achment and garden hose t o t h e lower unit. NEVER opera te t h e engine above idle speed using t h e flush attachment. If t h e engine is operated above idle speed with no load on t h e propeller, t h e engine could RUNAWAY resulting in serious damage or destruction of t h e unit.

CAUTION: Water must circulate through rhe lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump.

Sta r t t h e engine and allow i t t o warm t o operating temperature. Pop t h e t h r e e rub-

ber caps, one for each carburetor, ou t of t h e f ron t cover of t h e air silencer. Adjust t h e low-speed idle by turning the low-speed needle valve CLOCKWISE until t h e engine begins t o misfire or the rpm drops noticeably. From this point, ro ta te t h e needle vavle COUNTERCLOCKWISE until the engine is operating at t h e highest rpm. If t h e engine coughs and operates a s if the fuel is too lean, but t h e idle adjustments have been correct ly made, then recheck t h e synchronization between t h e fuel and ignition systems.

After t h e idle has been adjusted, push t h e idle knob retainers onto t h e needle until i t engages t h e spline on t h e low-speed needle. Repeat the procedure for t h e other two carburetors. Replace t h e rubber caps in to t h e f ront cover of the a i r silencer.

4-10 TYPE IVA CARBURETOR WITH LOW-SPEED NEEDLE VALVE AND FIXED HIGH-SPEED ORIFICE 85 HP - 1969 100 HP - 1971 115 HP - 1969 AND 1970 125 HP - 1971

TYPE IVB CARBURETOR WITH FIXED LOW-SPEED AND HIGH-SPEED ORIFICES 85 HP - 1972 100 HP - 1972 125 HP - 1972

DESCRIPTION

Both the "A" and "B" Type IV carburetors a r e f ron tdra f t type, with two t h r o a t s ("double barrel"). The Type IVA has a low- speed adjustable needle valve and fixed high-speed orifice. The Type IVA has fixed low-speed and high-speed orifices. Both models a r e covered in this section.

Two of t h e Type IV carburetors a r e installed on the model engines l isted in the heading. This arrangement provides a sep- a r a t e "barrel" for each cylinder. The f loat in each carburetor serves two cylinders.

REMOVAL

1- Disconnect the ba t t e ry cables at the ba t t e ry as a precaution against an accidenta l spark igniting the fuel or fuel fumes present during t h e service work. Disconnect t h e quick-disconnect on the fuel line t o the

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4-52 FUEL

engine. R e m o v e t h e hood. R e m o v e t h e re ta in ing sc rews f r o m t h e f r o n t of t h e a i r s i lencer cover. R e m o v e t h e dra in hose f r o m t h e bo t tom of t h e a i r s i lencer base. Re- move t h e adjust ing a r m s t o t h e low-speed needle valves, if used. R e m o v e t h e four s c rews securing t h e a i r s i lencer base t o t h e carbure tors . L i f t t h e a i r s i lencer base upward and o u t of t h e way.

Disconnect t h e choke linkage. Slip t h e re ta in ing ring and t h e choke solenoid spring back f rom t h e upper choke arm. R e m o v e t h e screws securing t h e choke yoke t o t h e a i r s i lencer . Unclamp t h e wi re s t o t h e c h o k e solenoid. S e t t h e choke solenoid aside.

2- Remove t h e fue l pump re ta in ing screws. Move t h e fue l pump as ide t o al low t h e ca rbu re to r s t o b e removed. I t i s n o t necessary t o d isconnect t h e l ine t o t h e fue l pump. Disconnect t h e fue l i n l e t hose a t e a c h carbure tor .

3- On t h e s t a rboa rd side of t h e engine, not ice t h e a r m s be tween t h e ca rbu re to r s f o r t h r o t t l e and choke act ion. Loosen t h e link- a g e f a s t ene r , s l ide t h e f a s t ene r upward and t h e l inkage a r m s will then c o m e f r ee .

4- Remove t h e ca rbu re to r retaining n u t s a n d lockwashers. L i f t t h e ca rbu re to r s f r e e of t h e i n t a k e manif old.

SPECIAL WORDS Only one ca rbu re to r will b e rebui l t in t h e

following procedures. Se rv ice of t h e o t h e r

CHOKE YOKE

CHOKE

p 8/ 'LUNG" RETAINER

AIR SILENCER BASE

AIR SILENCER COVER

OUTER SLOW SPEED ADJUSTING

ARM

STARBOARD

SLOW / BUSHING^ SPEED

ADJUSTING ARM (4) STARBOARD

AIR SILENCER COVER

OUTER SLOW SPEED

I ADJUSTING

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TYPE IV CARBURETOR 4-53

unit is t o be performed in t h e same manner. The basic carburetor is t h e unit with t h e orif ices. Differences for units with the low- speed adjustments will be noted.

The carburetor parts should be kept with t h e individual unit t o ensure all i tems a r e installed back in their original positions.

DISASSEMBLING

5- Lay the two carburetors on t h e bencn on t h e throat openings. Disconnect and remove t h e two hoses between t h e carburetors.

6- Turn the carburetor body upsidedowr., and remove t h e four f loat chamber screws.

7- Lif t t h e bowl assembly f r e e of the carburetor body. Remove and discard t h e gasket.

8- Remove t h e hinge pin and then t h e float. Remove t h e needle f rom t h e s e a t , then t h e sea t , and finally t h e gasket.

9- Remove t h e two low-speed orif ice screws. These screws a r e located just above t h e high-speed orifices on both sides of t h e carburetor body.

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4-54 FUEL

10- Use t h e proper size screwdriver, o r special tool Oh4C No. 317002, and remove t h e two low-speed orif ices.

11- If the unit being serviced has the adjustable low-speed needle valves, remove t h e low-speed needle valves. After removing t h e needle valve, observe and remove the retainer t h a t accepts t h e needle valve. Good shop pract ice is t o replace t h e retain- e r , because t h e retainer is actually the component holding t h e needle valve in adjustment. If t h e retainer has become worn, i t is not possible to hold t h e needle valve in an accura te adjustment.

12- Observe the low-speed needle valve bearing deep inside t h e carburetor. Remov- al of this bearing is no small task. A special tool is not available. However, a paper clip

-.. \

ON PORT SIDE, ON STARBOARD

! 8 4 4

with a hook on t h e end, can be used t o reach inside t h e bore and remove t h e bearing. Actually this bearing is made of plast ic and t h e needle valve ro ta tes inside. The bearing centers t h e needle valve in t h e carburetor.

Identify t h e orif ices (or needle valves) t o ensure each will b e installed into t h e opening f rom which i t was removed.

13- Remove the two drain plugs, one on each side of t h e carburetor body.

14- Use t h e proper s ize screwdriver, o r special tool OhnC No. 317002, and remove t h e two high-speed orif ices.


NEVER dip rubber parts, plast ic parts , or nylon parts , in carburetor cleaner. These par ts should b e cleaned ONLY in solvent, and then blown dry with compressed air.

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Place all metal par ts in a screen- type t ray and dip them in carburetor cleaner until they appear completely clean, then wash with solvent or clean water , and blow dry with compressed air.

Blow ou t ail passages in the castings with compressed air. Check all par ts and passages to be sure they a r e not clogged or contain any deposits. NEVER use a piece of wire or any type of pointed instrument t o clean drilled passages or calibrated holes in a carburetor.

Move t h e th ro t t l e shaf t back-and-forth t o check for wear. If the shaf t appears t o be too loose, replace t h e complete t h r o t t l e body because individual replacement parts a r e NOT available.

Inspect the main body, airhorn, and ventur i cluster gasket surfaces for cracks and burrs which might cause a leak. Check t h e f loat for deterioration. Check t o be sure t h e f loa t spring has not been stretched. If any par t of t h e f loat is damaged, t h e unit must b e replaced. Check t h e f loat arm needle contacting surface and replace t h e f loa t if th is surface has a groove worn in it.

Inspect t h e tapered section of t h e idle adjusting needles and replace any t h a t have developed a groove.

Check the orif ices fo r cleanliness. The orifice has a stamped number. This number represents a drill size. Check the orif ice with t h e shank of t h e proper size drill t o

1 'i WORN

, \ GOOD

Comparison o f a worn and new carburetor adjusting screw. The upper screw is unfit for further service.

UORN

GOOD

Comparison o f worn and new needle valve. The top needle is unfit for further service.

verify the proper orif ice is used. The local OMC dealer will be ab le t o provide t h e c o r r e c t s ize orif ice for t h e engine and carburetor being serviced.

Most of the par ts t h a t should be replaced during a carburetor overhaul a r e included in overhaul kits available from your local marine dealer. One of these kits will contain a matched fuel inlet needle and seat . This combination should be replaced each t i m e t h e carburetor is disassembled a s a precaution against leakage.

ASSEMBLING

GOOD WORDS Make every e f fo r t t o keep all par ts a s

clean as possible. Do not lay par ts on mater ia l which may contain dust, d i r t , or lint.

Replace all gaskets and O-rings. Never a t t e m p t t o use t h e original par ts a second t ime.

1- Install the inlet s e a t using the proper size screwdriver. Inject just a drop of light- weight oil into t h e seat . Thread t h e inlet needle valve into t h e sea t , and t ighten i t until i t barely seats. DO NOT overtighten or t h e needle valve may be damaged.

GOOD WORN

Cross sectional drawing to allow comparison of a new needle and seat ( le f t ) , and badly worn one (right).

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4-56 FUEL

Exploded drawing of the Type N A carburetor.

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CHOKE LEVER (85 HP ONLY)

ORIF ICE PLUG

Exploded drawing of the Type NB carburetor.

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4-58 FUEL

2- Postion NEW gaskets in place on t h e carburetor body and on t h e nozzle.

3- Lower t h e float down over t h e nozzle, and then slide t h e hinge pin into place. Hold t h e carburetor body in such a manner t h a t allows the f loat t o hang free. The f loa t should be parallel with t h e carburetor body. If i t is not, bend t h e t a b a s close t o t h e f loa t as possible until the f loat is parallel with t h e body. Take c a r e t o bend t h e t a b on both sides of t h e f loat and t o bend i t squarely.

WORDS OF CAUTION Take t i m e t o use the proper s ize screw-

driver, or special tool OMC No 317002, t o install an orifice. If t h e orif ice is damaged and t h e edge of t h e opening burred, because t h e wrong s ize screwdriver was used, t h e flow of fuel will be restr icted and t h e orif ice will not function properly. Damage t o t h e orif ice will also make removal very difficult during t h e next carburetor service.

4- Use special tool (?1\1C No. 317002 and install the highLspeed orifices, one on each side of t h e carburetor body.

5- Install t h e drain plugs with MEW gaskets.

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Models with Low-Speed Orifices 6- Install t h e low-speed orif ices in to t h e

carburetor body just above the high-speed or if ices.

7- Install the screws, with NEW washers behind t h e orif ices.

Models with Low-Speed Needle Valves 8- Install t h e low-speed retainer in t h e

carburetor body. Slide the nylon bearing onto t h e end of t h e low-speed needle valve, and then thread the valve into t h e retainer. Continue threading t h e valve in to t h e retainer until i t seats LIGHTLY, and then back i t ou t COUNTERCLOCKWISE 51% turn.

9- Install the f loa t chamber and secure i t with t h e four screws. Tighten t h e screws ALTERNATELY and EVENLY.

NEEDLE RETAINER (TWO) BLACK ON PORT SIDE, WHITE ON STARBOARD

LOW SPEED NEEDLE (TWO)

18 4 4

INSTALLATION

10- Install and connect the fuel hoses between t h e carburetors.

11- Place a NEW gasket in position on t h e in take manifold. install t h e lower carburetor f i rs t , and secure i t in place with the four a t taching screws. Install t h e upper car buretor.

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4-60 FUEL

12- Connect t h e fuel hoses between t h e two carburetors.

13- Install a NEW gasket t o t h e f a c e of t h e carburetor, and then t h e a i r silencer base. Install t h e choke t o the air silencer base. Connect t h e linkage t o t h e carburetor choke arm. Secure t h e linkage in place with t h e small O-ring. Sometimes an E-clip i s used.

Models with Low-Speed Needle Valves Check t o be sire the needle valves a r e

centered in the a i r silencer cover. Snap t h e low-speed adjustment a rms onto t h e f i rs t notch in t h e horizontal position, facing forward.

14- Connect the linkage between t h e carburetors on t h e starboard side of t h e engine. Make sure t h e throt t le butterfl ies a r e fully closed when t h e connections are

CHOKE YOKE

made. Tighten the retainer securely. Con- nect t h e choke linkage between t h e carburetors. Make sure t h e choke butterfl ies a r e wide open when t h e connections a r e made. Tighten t h e retainer securely.

Check t o be sure t h e choke but terf ly in each carburetor seats fully closed. Check t h e th ro t t l e butterfl ies t o be sure both a r e fully closed. Now, move the linkage and

CHOKE

/P PLUNGER AIR SILENCER DETAINFR BASE

AIR SILENCER COVER

/

OUTER SLOW SPEED

SPEE ADJUSTING ADJUSTING

/ / ARM

ARM (4) STARBOARD LINK

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PUMP SERVICE 4-61

check t o be sure they both open fully and t o t h e same degree. If an adjustment is required, t h e retainer on t h e linkage can be moved.

Synchronization To synchronize t h e fuel system with t h e

ignition system, see t h e appropriate section in Chapter 5.

15- Mount t h e engine in a test tank or body of water. If th is is not possible, connect a flush a t t achment and garden hose t o t h e lower unit. NEVER opera te t h e engine above idle speed using the flush attachment. If t h e engine is operated above idle speed with no load on t h e propeller, t h e engine could RUNAWAY resulting in serious damage or destruction of t h e unit.


Sta r t the engine and allow i t t o warm t o operating temperature. Adjust t h e low- speed idle by turning t h e low-speed needle valve CLOCKWISE until t h e engine begins t o misfire or the rpm drops noticeably. From this point, ro ta te t h e needle valve COUNT- ERCLOCKWISE until the engine is operating at t h e highest rpm. If t h e engine coughs and operates a s if the fuel is too lean, but the idle adjustments have been correct ly niade, then recheck t h e synchronization between t h e fuel and ignition systems.

4-11 FUEL PUMP SERVICE

A considerable number of fuel pump designs and sizes have been installed on t h e larger Johnson/Evinrude engines covered in th is ma.nua1. Only one can be rebuilt and detailed procedures with illustrations a r e given in th is section.

This fuel pump has th ree nipples providing t h e means of connecting fuel and vacuum lines. The vacuum line is connected t o one nipple. The other end of th is hose i s connected t o t h e vacuum side of t h e engine. The inlet hose (from t h e fuel tank) is connected t o the second nipple. The out le t hose ( to t h e carburetor) is connected t o t h e third nipple.

Minor changes have been incorporated in to t h e fuel pump over t h e years. These changes will b e identified in t h e text .

All other fuel pumps must be replaced a s a unit. However, t h e pump cover can b e removed, t h e f i l ter screen cleaned or replaced, and a NEW cover gasket installed.

The accompanying illustrations show only a couple of these fuel pumps, including t h e unit t h a t can b e rebuilt.

FUEL TANK

y%J Functional diagram to illustrate operation of the

fuel pump during UPWARD movement of the piston, causing a vacuum condition in the crankcase. Notice how the intake valve in the fuel pump is open and the outlet valve is closed.

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4-62 FUEL

TROUBLES HOOTING

If t h e spark plug of t h e cylinder t o which t h e vacuum line is connected becomes w e t fouled, the cause may very well be a rup- tu red fuel pump diaphragm. This reasoning is sound for both type of fuel pumps. Both type of pumps have an inlet hose f rom t h e fuel source, an out le t hose t o t h e carburetors, and a vacuum hose f rom t h e powerhead.

A good tes t for the pump is t o disconnect t h e vacuum line f rom t h e engine, operate t h e squeeze bulb in the fuel line until i t is f irm, and then t o carefully observe t h e end of the vacuum hose t o d e t e c t any fuel leakage. The smallest amount of fuel f rom the hose indicates a damaged diaphragm. The pump must be rebuilt to res tore satis- f a c t o r y service of t h e pump. If t h e pump is a non-rebuildable type, t h e unit must b e replaced.

FUEL TANK

Functional diagram to illustrate operation of the fuel pump chtring DOWNWARD movement of the piston, causing pressure in the crankcase. Notice how the pump inlet valve is closed and the outlet valve is open to allow fuel to be transferred to the carburetor.

PUMP REMOVAL AND REPAIR

1- Identify each hose and i t s location, then disconnect t h e vacuum hose and two fuel hoses f rom t h e fuel pump. Remove the t h r e e at taching screws securing t h e pump t o t h e engine. Two screws a r e visible on t o p of t h e pump and t h e third is hidden behind t h e fuel inlet nipple.

2- Mount t h e fuel pump in a vise, as shown. Loosen t h e plastic screw securing t h e f i l ter bowl t o t h e pump.

3- Swing t h e hinge down and l i f t t h e fuel bowl f r e e of t h e pump. Remove and DIS- CARD t h e bowl gasket and fi l ter .

Throw-away fuel pump used on some Johnson/Evin- rude engines. The only service possible on this unit is to clean the filter and install a new gasket.

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PUMP SERVICE 4-63

4- Shift the pump position in the vise, as shown. Remove t h e six screws securing t h e pump cover.

5- Remove the cover. Take c a r e not t o lose t h e disc washer and spring f rom t h e top of the diaphragm. Remove t h e disc washer, spring, and diaphragm. SAVE t h e small disc washer because i t will be used again.

6- Some model pumps may have a small d isc washer and long spring installed under t h e diaphragm. Other models may have a large nylon washer and spring. DISCARD t h e small disc washer because i t has been replaced with t h e larger nylon washer and is included in t h e pump repair kit.

7- Remove t h e two screws from the check valve retainer. Reach in to t h e pump and remove t h e check valve retainer.

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4-64 FUEL

8- CAREFULLY observe how one check valve is facing downward and the other valve is facing upward. Also notice t h e groove in the fuel pump body. A small boss on t h e retainer f i t s in to t h e groove as a prevention against installing the retainer incorrectly. Remove t h e two check valves and t h e check valve gasket. Further disassembly of t h e pump is not necessary.


Wash the fuel pump body thoroughly and then blow i t dry with compressed air. All internal par ts necessary t o rebuild t h e pump, including diaphragm, check valves, gaskets, etc., will b e included in t h e pump repair kit. At one t ime, these kits were available from the local OMC dealer at modest cost. However, OMC has discontin- ued packaging t h e par ts in kit form. There- fore, unless t h e dealer st i l l has one of t h e old kits in stock, t h e fuel pump par ts must be purchased individually.

PUMP ASSEMBLING AND INSTALLATION

1- Insert one of the NEW check valves through t h e check valve gasket.

2- Install t h e gasket and check valve in to t h e pump body with t h e valve facing DOWNWARD, a s shown.

GASKET '\\

RETAINER

CHECK VALVE

m REPLACEMENT

Q CAP

1 CAP SHORT SPRING

FILTER

Exploded drawing of the only fuel pump that can be rebuilt.

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PUMP SERVlCE 4-65

Parts included in a fuel pump repair kit for those model pumps that can be re built.

3- Position the other check valve on top of t h e gasket facing UPWARD.

4- Slide t h e re ta iner down over t h e check valves with the boss on the re ta iner in t h e groove of the pump body. Observe t h e large and small hole in the retainer. The large hole MUST be positioned over the check valve facing UPWARD. Secure the re ta iner in place with the two a t taching screws.

5- Install the MEW LONG spring over t h e boss of t h e retainer, and then place t h e nylon disc washer on top of the spring t h a t was provided in t h e kit. NEVER use t h e small disc on t o p of the long spring.

Damaged old-style diaphragm with the small cap installed on early model engines. This small cap has been replaced with a much larger one. Notice how this cap worked its way free of the spring and came through the diaphragm.

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4-66 FUEL

GOOD WORD The following s teps may only be properly

accomplished by exercising patience and a l i t t l e t ime.

6- Mount t h e pump i n a vise in a ver t ica l position, as shown. Lay t h e diaphragm over t h e top of t h e nylon disc washer and onto t h e pump body. Notice how t h e spring holds t h e disc up and partially l if ts t h e diaphragm from t h e pump. This is a norm a1 condition.

7- Insert t h e small disc and t h e short spring in to t h e cavity, as shown. This spring and disc helps t o cushion t h e vacuum impulses from the engine.

8- Ease t h e fuel pump cover down over t h e diaphragm and then thread t h e six cover at taching screws in to t h e pump body. As each screw is s tar ted, pull on the edge of t h e diaphragm t o align t h e screw holes in t h e diaphragm with the matching holes in t h e pump body. Tighten t h e a t taching screws securely.

9- Slide t h e f i l ter e lement into t h e fuel. The end of t h e f i l ter e lement must slide over the indexing peg in the bottom of t h e pump. Force t h e e lement onto t h e peg until i t is fully seated.

10- Place a NEW gasket into position in t h e fuel pump, as shown.

11- Place the fuel pump bowl over t h e f i l ter e lement and in to position on t h e gasket.

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PUMP SERVICE 4-67

4-12 FUEL TANK SERVICE

12- Swing the hinge up over the pump bowl, and then secure i t in place by tightening the plastic thumb screw. 13- Mount t h e fuel pump onto t h e engine

and secure it with the two screws on t o p and one behind t h e fuel inlet nipple. CARE- FULLY connect the vacuum hose and the two fuel hoses t o thei r proper nipples, as identified during disassembling. If identification was not made follow t h e hoses a s described. Connect the vacuum hose (from t h e engine) t o t h e nipple on t h e pump cover. Connect the inlet hose (from the fuel tank) t o t h e inside nipple (the one closest t o t h e engine). Connect the out le t hose (to the carburetor) t o t h e remaining nipple.

La te model fuel tanks (since about 1959), a r e not pressurized. A squeeze bulb is used t o move fuel from the t ank t o t h e carburetor until t h e engine is operating. Once t h e engine s ta r t s , t h e fuel pump, mounted on t h e engine, transfers fuel f rom t h e tank t o t h e carburetor. The pickup unit in t h e tank is sold as a complete unit, but without t h e gauge and float .

1- To replace t h e pickup unit, f i rs t remove t h e four screws securing t h e unit in the tank. Next, l i f t the pickup unit up ou t of t h e tank.

2- Remove the two Phillips screws securing t h e fuel gauge t o t h e bot tom of t h e pickup unit and set the gauge aside fo,r instal lat ion onto t h e new pickup unit.

If the pickup unit is not t o be replaced, clean and check t h e screen f o r damage. I t is possible t o bend a new piece of screen

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/

CONNECTOR

O-RING TANK

0" VALVE

Exploded drawing of a modern non-pressurized fuel tank and fuel line.

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TANK AND LINE 4-69

mater ia l around t h e pickup and solder i t in place without purchasing a complete new unit. At tach t h e fuel gauge t o t h e new pickup unit and secure i t in place with the t w o Phillips screws.

3- Clean the old gasket mater ia l f rom the . fuel tank and old pickup unit (if t h e old pickup unit is t o be installed for fur ther service). Work t h e f loat arm down through t h e fuel t ank opening, and at t h e s a m e t i m e inser t t h e fuel pickup t u b e in to t h e tank. I t will probably be necessary t o e x e r t a l i t t l e f o r c e on t h e f loat arm in order t o feed it a l l into t h e hole. The fuel pickup a rm should spring into place once i t is through t h e hole. Secure the pickup and f loat unit in place with t h e four at taching screws.

4- The primer squeeze bulb can be replaced in a shor t time. A squeeze bulb assembly, complete with t h e check valves installed, may be obtained f rom t h e local OMC dealer.

An arrow is clearly visible on the squeeze bulb t o indicate t h e direction s f fuel flow. The squeeze bulb .MUST b e installed correct ly in t h e line because t h e check valves in each end of the bulb will allow fuel t o flow in ONLY one direction. Therefore, if t h e squeeze bulb should be installed backwards (in a moment of haste t o g e t t h e job done), fuel wiil not reach t h e carburetor.

5- To replace t h e bulb, f i rs t unsnap t h e clamps on the hose at each end of t h e bulb. Next, pull t h e hose out of t h e check valves

Fuel pump pickup assembly. The fuel gauge assemb-

at each end of t h e bulb. New clamps a r e included with a new squeeze bulb. If t h e fuel line has been exposed t o considerable sunlight, it may have become hardened, causing difficulty in working i t over t h e check valve. To remedy this si tuation, simply immerse t h e ends of t h e hose in boiling water for a f e w minutes t o sof ten t h e rubber and t h e hose will then slip onto t h e check valve without fur ther problerrs. After the l ines on both sides have been

- - t y is not sold-& a pa& of the pickup &it. Typical Johnson/Evinrude non-pressurized fuel tank.

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4-70 FUEL

installed, snap t h e clamps in place t o secure the line. Check a second t i m e t o b e sure t h e arrow is pointing in t h e fuel flow direction, TOWARDS t h e engine.

6- Use two ice picks or similar tools, and push down t h e center plunger of the connector and work t h e O-ring out of t h e hole.

7- Apply just a drop of oil into t h e hole of t h e connector. Apply a thin coating of oil t o the surface of t h e O-ring. Pinch t h e O-ring together and work i t in to t h e hole while simultaneously using a punch t o depress t h e plunger inside t h e connector.

Johnson/Evinrude fuel conditioner. This product Johnson/Evinrude lubricant t o be added to the fuel. may be added to the fuel to keep it fresh for up to a Using quality products will contribute to maximum full year. efficiency and reduce repair costs.

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IGNITION

5-1 INTRODUCTION

The less an outboard engine is operated, t h e more c a r e i t needs. Allowing an outboard engine to remain i d e will do more harm than if i t is used regularly. To main- ta in t h e engine in top shape and always ready for efficient operation at any t ime, t h e engine should be operated every 3 t o 4 weeks throughout t h e year.

The car buret ion m d ignition princip$es of twc+cyck engine operation MUST be understood in order t o perform a proper tune- up on an outboard motor.

Operating a V 4 engine for test purposes with a Flusbette attachment installed. The engine should NEVER be operated above idle speed with such a device.

If you have any doubts csncerning your understanding of two-cycle engine operation, i t would be best Po study t h e operation theory section in t h e f irst portion of Chap- t e r 3, before tackling any work on t h e ignition system.

Hf engine performance is less than expected, and t h e ignition is diagnosed as t h e problem area , t h e sections in this chapter give detailed procedures t o res tore full p ~ w - er to t h e unit. Complete instructions t o synchronize t h e ignition system with t h e fuel system, a r e given at t h e end of the chapter.

BEFORE o ~ e n i n g t h e ignition system, purchasing expensive parts , and spending t i m e which might h e avoided, t a k e t i m e t o study and understand t h e early sections of this chapter covering spark plug e v d uatism, polarity check, and t h e wiring harness. The tests, checks, and procedures in these ear ly sections should also be perforwed BEFORE t h e system is opened.

A V 4 engine with belt-driven distributor magneto ignition system.

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5-2 IGNITION

A V4 engine with belt-driven distributor battery ignition system.

JGNITDN SYSTEMS

Three ignition systems a r e used on t h e outboard engines covered in th is manual and a r e presented in t h e following order:

1- A distributor- type magneto system driven by a bel t from t h e flywheel.

2- A ba t te ry distributor- type system driven bv a bel t from t h e flvwheel.

A V4 enoine showina arts o f the CD ianition mstem after the flywheel, &;or, distributor &p, and -rotor have been removed.

3- Three different capacitor discharge (CD) systems a r e covered. One uses a sensor in a distributor driven by a bel t f rom t h e flywheel (produced only one year). The next CD system (an improvement over t h e f irst) has all t h e components mounted underneath t h e flywheel. The third C D system incorporated a double se t of points mounted under t h e flywheel and an amplifier and associated components secured elsewhere on t h e engine.

A V4 100 hp, 1967 or 1968, with belt-driven distributor using the capacitor discharge (CD) ignition system with sensor.

View of a CD ignition system utilizing two sets of points, after the flywheel, stator, distributor cap, arld rotor have been removed.

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SPARK PLUGS 5 3

BEST WORDS POSSIBLE I t is of the utmost importance t o know,

without a doubt, t h e type of ignition system installed on the unit being serviced. Proper troubleshooting, and of course service, can NOT b e performed unless an identification is made as t o t h e horsepower and model year of t h e unit. The fo rmat and appendix of this book will definitely solve t h e problem. BE- FORE any working is s tar ted, f i rs t , find t h e model number on t h e engine and then make a n identification in the Appendix. From this information ( the horsepower and model year) proceed directly t o t h e proper sections (troubleshooting, replacement, etc.) of th is chapter.

5-2 SPARK PLUG EVALUAnON

REMOVAL

Remove t h e spark plug wires by pulling and twisting on only t h e molded cap. NEV- ER pull on t h e wire, or t h e connection inside t h e c a p may become separated or t h e boot damaged. Remove t h e spark plugs and keep them in order. TAKE CARE not t o t i l t t h e socket as you remove t h e plug or t h e insulator may be cracked.

EXAMINATION

Line the plugs in order of removal and carefully examine them t o determine t h e firing conditions in each cylinder. If t h e side e lect rode is bent down onto t h e cen te r electrode, t h e piston is traveling too f a r upward in t h e cylinder and striking t h e spark plug. Such damage indicates t h e wrist pin o r t h e rod bearing is worn excessively. In

This spark plug is foul from operating with an overrich condition, possibly an improper carburetor adjustment .

Damaged spark plugs. Notice the broken electrode on the left plug. The broken part MUST be found and removed before returning the engine to service.

all cases, an engine overhaul is required t o correct t h e condition.

To verify t h e cause of t h e problem, r o t a t e t h e flywheel by hand. As t h e piston moves t o t h e full up position, push on t h e piston crown with a screwdriver inserted through t h e spark plug hole, and at t h e s a m e t i m e rock t h e flywheel back-and-forth. If any play in t h e piston is detected, t h e engine must b e rebuilt.

Correct Color A proper firing plug should b e dry and

powdery. Hard deposits inside t h e shell indicate too much oil is being mixed with t h e fuel. The most important evidence is t h e l ight gray color of t h e porcelain, which is an indication th is plug has been running at t h e cor rec t temperature. This means t h e plug is one with t h e cor rec t heat range and also t h a t t h e air-fuel mixture is correct .

Rich Mixture: A black sooty condition on both t h e spark plug shell and t h e porcelain is caused by an excessively rich air-fuel

This spark plug has been operating too cool, because it is rated with a too-low heat range for the engine.

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5-4 IGNITION

mixture, both at low and high speeds. The rich mixture lowers t h e combustion temperature. At the lower tempearature , t h e spark plug does not run hot enough t o burn off t h e deposits.

Deposits formed only on t h e shell i s an indication t h e low-speed air-fuel mixture is too rich. A t high speeds with t h e cor rec t mixture, t h e temperature in t h e combustion chamber is high enough t o burn off t h e deposits on t h e insulator.

Too Cool A dark insulator, with very f e w deposits,

indicates t h e plug is running too cool. This condition can b e caused by low compression air by using a spark plug of an incorrect hea t range. If this condition shows on only one plug it is most usually caused by low compression in t h a t cylinder. If all of t h e plugs have th is appearance, then i t is probably due t o t h e plugs having a too-low heat range.

Foded A fouled spark plug may be caused by

t h e wet oily deposits on t h e insulator shorting t h e high-tension current t o ground inside t h e shell. The condition may also be caused by ignition problems which prevent a high- tension pulse t o be delivered t o t h e spark P ~ ! P

Carbon Deposits Heavy carbon-like deposits a r e an indi-

cation of excessive oil in t h e fuel. This

ELECTRODE ELECTRODE Cut-a-way drawing showing major spark plug parts.

condition may be t h e result of poor oil grade, (automotive- type instead of a marine-type); improper oil-fuel mixture in t h e fuel tank; or by worn piston rings.

Over heating A dead white or gray insulator, which is

generally blistered, is an indication of overheating and pre-ignition. The e lect rode gap wear r a t e will b e more than normal and in t h e case of pre-ignition, will actually cause t h e electrodes t o mel t as shown in th i s illustration. Overheating and pre-ignition a r e usually caused by improper point gap adjustment; detonation from using too-low an oc tane rating fuel; an excessively l ean air-fuel mixture; or problems in t h e cooling system.

Electrode Wear Electrode wear results in a wide gap and

if t h e e lect rode becomes carbonized i t will form a high-resistance path for t h e spark t o jump across. Such a condition will cause t h e engine t o misfire during acceleration, If all plugs a r e in this condition, i t can cause an increase in fuel consumption and very poor performance during high-speed operation. The solution is t o replace t h e spark plugs with a rating in t h e proper heat range and gapped t o specification.

Red rust-colored deposits on t h e ent i re firing end of a spark plug can be caused by water in t h e cylinder combustion chamber. This can b e t h e f i rs t evidence of wa te r enter ing t h e cylinders through t h e exhaust manifold because of an accumulation of scale or defect ive exhaust shutter. This condition MUST be corrected at t h e f i rs t opportunity. Refe r to Chapter 3, Engine Service.

Today, numerous type spark plugs are available for service. ALWAYS check with your local marine dealer to be sure you are prchasing the proper plug for the engine being serviced.

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POINTS AND CONDENSER 5-5

5-3 OTHER IGNITION PARTS

Breaker Points The breaker points in an outboard motor

a r e an extremely important par t of t h e ignition system. A set of points may appear to b e in good condition, but they may b e t h e source of hard start ing, misfiring, o r poor engine performance. The rules and knowledge gained from association with 4-cycle engines does not necessarily apply t o a 2- cycle engine. The points should b e replaced every 100 hours of operation or at l eas t once a year. REMEMBER, t h e less an outboard engine is operated, t h e more c a r e i t needs. Allowing an outboard engine t o remain idle will do more harm than if i t i s used regularly.

A breaker point set consists of two points. O n e is a t t ached t o a s ta t ionary bracket and does not move. The o ther point is a t t ached to a moveable mount. A spring is used t o keep t h e points in con tac t with each other, except when they a r e separa ted by t h e action of t h e cam. Both points a r e constructed with a s teel base and a tungsten c a p fused t o t h e base.

To properly diagnose magneto (spark) problems, t h e theory of e lect r ic i ty flow must be understood. The flow of e lect r ic i ty through a wire may be compared with t h e flow of water through a pipe. Consider t h e voltage in t h e wire as t h e water pressure in t h e pipe and t h e amperes as t h e volume of water. Now, if t h e water pipe is broken, t h e wa te r does not reach t h e end of t h e pipe. In a similar manner if t h e wire is broken t h e flow of e lect r ic i ty Is broken. If t h e pipe springs a leak, t h e amount of water reaching t h e end of t h e pipe is reduced. Same with t h e wire. If t h e installation i s defect ive or

Worn and corroded breaker points unfit for further service.

t h e wire becomes grounded, t h e amount of e lect r ic i ty (amperes) reaching t h e end of t h e wire is reduced.

Check t h e wiring carefully. Inspect t h e points closely and adjust them accurately. The point se t t ing for ALL engines covered in th is manual using magneto and ba t t e ry ignition systems is 0.020" (5.1 mm). These two systems a r e covered in Sections 5-6 and 5-8.

Condenser A condenser is ONLY used on units

equipped with magneto and ba t t e ry ignition systems. One condenser is used for both sets of points.

In simple terms, a condenser is composed of two sheets of tin or aluminum foil laid one on t o p of t h e other, but separated by a shee t of insulating mater ia l such as waxed paper, etc. The sheets a r e rolled into a cylinder t o conserve space and then inser ted into a metal case for protection and t o permit easy assembly.

The purpose of t h e condenser i s t o absorb o r s to re t h e secondary current built-up in t h e primary winding at the instant the breaker points a r e separated. By absorbing o r storing this current , t h e condenser prevents excessive arcing and t h e useful l i f e of t h e breaker points is extended. The condenser also gives added f o r c e t o t h e charge produced in t h e secondary winding as t h e condenser discharges.

ACTUAL POINT OPENING .021 r, '1

FEELER GAUGE

Drawing to depict how a 0.016" feeler gauge may be inserted between a badly worn set of points and the actual opening is 0.021". The point set must be in good condition to obtain an accurate adjustment.

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5-6 IGNITION

ALTERNATE LAYERS OF INSULATION -- WAXED PAPER

1 ALTERNATE LAYERS OF FO I L I N OR ALUMINUM

FOIL

INSULATION

Rough sketch to illustrate how the waxed paper, aluminum foil, and insulation are rolled in a typical condenser.

Modern condensers seldom cause problems, therefore, i t is not necessary t o install a new one each t i m e t h e points a r e replaced. However, if t h e points show evidence of atcing, t h e condenser may b e at faul t and should be replaced. A faul ty condenser may not b e de tec ted without t h e use of special test equipment. The modest cost of a new condenser justifies i t s purchase and installation t o eliminate this i t em as a source of trouble.

Polarity Check Coil polarity is ext remely important f o r

proper ba t t e ry ignition system operation. If a coil is connected with reverse polarity, t h e spark plugs may demand f rom 30 t o 40 percent more voltage t o fire. Under such demand conditions, in a very shor t t i m e t h e coil would be unable t o supply enough voltage t o f i r e t h e plugs. Any one of t h e following th ree methods may be used t o quickly determine coil polarity.

1- The polarity of t h e coil can be check- e d using an ordinary dc voltmeter. Connect t h e positive lead t o a good ground. With t h e

Proper hoohup to test a condenser.

engine running, morn entarily touch t h e neg- a t i v e lead t o a spark plug terminal. The needle should swing upscale. If t h e needle swings downscale, t h e polarity is reversed.

2- If a vol tmeter i s not available, a pencil may be used in the following manner: Disconnect a spark plug wire and hold t h e metal connector at the end of t h e cable about 114" (6.35 mm) f rom t h e spark plug terminal. Now, insert an ordinary pencil t ip between t h e terminal and t h e connector. Crank t h e engine with t h e ignition switch ON. If t h e spark fea thers on t h e plug side and has a slight orange tinge, t h e polarity is correct . If t h e spark feathers on t h e cable connector side, t h e polarity is reversed.

3- The firing end of a used spark plug can give a clue to coil polarity. If the ground electrode is "dished", i t may mean polari ty is reversed.

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WIRING HARNESS 5-7

Wiring Harness CRITICAL WORDS: These next two

paragraphs may well be t h e most important words in this chapter. Misuse of t h e wiring harness is t h e most single cause of electrical problems with outboard power plants.

A wiring harness is used between t h e key switch and the engine. This harness seldom contains wire of sufficient s ize t o allow connecting accessories. Therefore, anytime a new accessory is installed, NEW wiring should be used between t h e ba t t e ry and t h e accessory. A separa te fuse panel MUST be installed on t h e dash. To connect t h e fuse panel, use one red and one black No. 10 gauge wire from t h e battery. If a small amount of 12-volt current should b e accidentally a t tached t o the magneto system, t h e coil may be damaged or DES- TROYED. Such a mistake in wiring can easily happen if t h e source for t h e 12-volt accessory is taken from the key switch. Therefore, again l e t i t be said, NEVER con- n e c t accessories through t h e key switch.

The wiring harness installed on t h e 50 hp 1958 & 1959, and t h e 75 hp 1960, was connected t o t h e side of t h e engine through an electrical plug utilizing "male" and "female" connectors. This part icular type connector has been a contributing fac to r t o a number of problems in the ignition system due t o t h e susceptibility of t h e connector t o corrosion. The plug is exposed and subject t o moisture which is especially destructive in a sa l t water atmosphere. Therefore,

during t h e troubleshooting work on t h e s e engines, always disconnect this plug and make a careful check for any sign of corrosion. The plug in illustration "A", needs t o be cleaned t o ensure a proper connection.

Key Switch A magneto key switch operates in RE-

VERSE of any other type key switch. When t h e key is moved t o t h e OFF position, t h e c i rcui t is CLOSED between t h e magneto and ground. In some cases, when the key is turned t o t h e OFF position t h e points a r e grounded. For th is reason, an automotive- type switch MUST NEVER b e used, because t h e circuit would be opened and closed in reverse, and if 12-volts should reach t h e coil, t h e coil would be DESTROYED.

On outboard units equipped with t h e bat- t e r y ignition system, only a MARINE switch should be used. These switches a r e manufactured as waterproof units. However, in

WITCH Functional diagram to illustrate proper hookup of accessories through a junction box. If a junction box is not

installed on the boat, connect accessories directly to the battery. NEVER connect accessories through the key switch.

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5-8 IGNITION

an emergency situation, an automotive- type switch could be installed on a temporary basis.

5-4 N PE I IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR MAGNETO 50 HP - 1958 to 1959 60 H P - 1 %4 to 1966 75 H P - 1960 to 1965 80 H P - 1966

WORDS O F ADVICE It would be worth the t i m e t o read and

understand t h e information presented in Sections 5-1 thru 5-3 before s tar t ing troubleshooting or service work on t h e irrnition system.

DESCRIPTION

READ AND BELIEVE. A ba t t e ry installed t o crank t h e engine DOES NOT mean t h e engine is equipped with a battery- type ignition system. A magneto system uses t h e ba t t e ry only t o crank t h e engine. Once t h e engine is running, the ba t t e ry has absolutely no a f f e c t on engine operation. Therefore, if t h e ba t t e ry is low and fa i ls t o crank t h e engine properly fo r start ing, t h e engine m a y b e cranked manually, s tar ted, and operated. Under these conditions, t h e key switch must b e turned t o the O N position or t h e engine will not s t a r t by hand cranking.

A magneto system, Illustration "An, is a self-contained unit. The unit does not require assistance f rom an outside source f o r s t a r t ing or continued operation. Therefore, a s previously m-entioned, if t h e ba t t e ry is dead, t h e engine may be cranked manually and t h e engine started.

A magneto ignition system can easily be distinguished f rom a ba t t e ry system. T h e high-tension spark plug leads on t h e magne- t o system a re routed out t h e bottom of t h e distributor -- distributor c a p is on t h e bottom. On a ba t t e ry ignition system, t h e distributor c a p is on top.

T h e Magneto The magneto assembly installed on V4

engines is a self-contained unit. The magneto is driven at crankshaft speed through a belt around a sprocket pulley a t t ached t o the flywheel and a similar pulley keyed t o t h e distributor rotor shaft . Both pulleys a r e of equal d iameter ,

the re fore t h e rotor shaf t turns at t h e s a m e speed as the crankshaft. The pulley also acts as a cover fo r t h e breaker assembly housing.

Breaker Assembly The breaker assembly consists of two

sets of P a r t No. 580290. Each package includes one complete set of points, a wick, retainer, and clip. The two-lobed breaker cam, which is keyed t o t h e rotor shaf t , and t h e condenser a r e sold separately. A tune- up kit includes two (2) se t s of points, a condenser, and a rotor.

Now, with t h e engine runnlng at 4,000 rpm, 16,000 power impulses occur every minute. Therefore, 16,000 spark impulses a r e required to f i r e t h e compressed charges in each of t h e four cylinders.

Two sets of breaker points in parallel and spaced at 90 a r e ac tua ted by t h e two lobed breaker cam. This ar rangement equalizes t h e individual breaker point "load". Each set of breaker points shares half t h e load by operating or breaking 8,000 t imes per minute or twice t h e engine running speed t o f i r e just two cylinders. The other set of points f ires t h e other two cyl inders.

A check of t h e schemat ic wiring diagram in th is sect ion will assist in understanding how this is accomplished. Looking at i t another way, a single set of breaker points operating on a four-lobed cam would be required t o in terrupt t h e primary c i rcui t 16,000 t imes per minute, if t h e engine were running at 4,000 rpm, t o f i r e t h e four cylinders.

With th% double breaker installation spaced at 90 , t h e contour of t h e two-lobed breaker c a m has been calibrated t o permit both sets of points t o remain open simultaneously fo r short intervals, but never closed simultaneously. The breaker points thus a l ternate ly make and break t h e primary circuit t o s h a r e t h e load.

The breaker base and point assemblies may appear t o b e t h e s a m e as those install- e d in t h e flywheel magneto sys tem but they a r e NOT interchangeable. The di f ference is in t h e mounting base. The diameter of t h e breaker point f a c e has been increased t o 3/16" (4.76 mm) t o prolong its ac t ive life.

Therefore, when purchasing a new assembly, t a k e t i m e at the marine dealer to ensure t h e proper set is obtained fo r t h e engine being serviced.

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DISTRIBUTOR MAGNETO 5-9

= CONDENSER

\ I

BREAKER -i 1 \

DISTRIBUTOR L

CAP

PRIMARY,

MAGNET

/'

POLE SHOES (SOUTH)

I

LEAD

SPARK PLUG

SPARK PLUGS

\

Spark Plug Terminal A spark plug terminal kit, illustration

"Bn, th is page, consisting of t h e terminal and a rubber boot, may b e purchased at modest cost. To install: pierce t h e high- tension lead in t h e cen te r with t h e terminal prong, illustration "Cn. If t h e lead is not pierced in t h e center , a good con tac t may not be accomplished. Moisten t h e inside of t h e boot with just a drop of saliva. Work t h e boot over t h e terminal and high-tension lead until t h e terminal is in the center of t h e boot opening f o r t h e spark plug.

Condenser The condenser (Par t No. 580256) is of

conventional design and construction, shunt- e d or bridged across the breaker points, reference illustration "An, next page.

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5- 10 IGNITION

ALTERNATE LAYERS OF l N SULAT I0 N -- WAXED PAPER

1 ALTERNATE LAYERS OF FO I L

INSULATION The condenser prevents excessive arcing

between t h e operating breaker points and therefore contributes significantly t o pro- longing t h e ac t ive l i f e of t h e point set . Of more importance, however, t h e condenser makes possible t h e surge of high voltage intensity required t o ignite the compressed fuel vapor charge in each cylinder.

Ignition Coil An ignition coil, of basic design and

construction, is mounted inside t h e lower half of t h e distributor, reference illustration "Bm, th is page. The coil consists of primary and secondary windings around an e lect r ic s tee l laminated core which in assembly "bridges" t h e magnet pole shoes. The distributor cap covers t h e coil and t h e rotor.

Distributor Rotor A distributor rotor is a t t ached t o and

turns with t h e rotor shaf t t o properly dis- t r ibute spark impulses while t h e engine is running.

Distributor Cap A conventional distributor c a p is used.

The c a p is mounted on t h e lower end of t h e distributor and covers t h e coil and t h e rotor. Each opening h-as a number t o indicate t h e

Rotors used with magneto ignition system (left), and battery ignition (right). These rotors appear similar, but they do differ and are not interchangeable, as explained in the text .

proper lead t o be installed. The high- tension leads a r e identified by number with a tag. The high-tension spark plug leads a r e threaded in to t h e cap. Whenever a high- tension lead is disconnected from t h e cap, i t must be ro ta ted COUNTERCLOCKWISE until it is free.

5-5 TROUBLESHOOTING DISTRIBUTOR h4AGNETO IGNITION 50 HP - 1 958 to 1959 60 HP - 1%4 to 1%6 75 HP - 1960 to 1965 80 HP - 1%6

Always a t t e m p t t o proceed with t h e troubles hooting in an orderly rn anner. The shot gun approach will on1 y resul t in wasted t ime, incorrect diagnosis, replacement of unnecessary parts , and frustration.

Begin t h e ignition system troubles hooting with t h e spark plugs and continue through t h e system until t h e source of trouble is located.

On a V 4 engine, t h e cylinders a r e numbered 1 and 3 in t h e starboard bank, 2 and 4 In t h e port bank.

Inside of a magneto distributor cap showing the two springs which must be in place during installation for proper operation.

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DlSTRlBUTOR MAGNETO 5- 1 1

Remember, a magneto system is a self- contained unit. Therefore, if t h e engine has a key switch and wire harness, remove them from t h e engine and then make a test f o r spark. A black "Kill" wire between t h e wire harness and t h e magneto can be disconnected t o e lminate the wiring in t h e key switch. If th is black "Kill" wire is disconnected, there is no convenient way t o shut the engine down, should i t s tart . In such a case t h e magneto would have t o be grounded in order t o shut t h e engine down. If a good spark is obtained with these two i tems disconnected, but no spark is available at t h e plug when they a r e connected, then t h e trouble is in t h e harness or t h e key switch. If a test is made for spark at the plug with t h e harness and switch connected, check t o b e sure t h e key switch is turned t o t h e ON position.

Spark Plugs 1- Check t h e plug wires t o be sure they

a r e properly connected. The distributor c a p has numbers embossed on the outside surface. The proper high-tension lead must b e installed into t h e proper opening in t h e c a p or t h e engine will not operate. Check t h e en t i re length of t h e wires from t h e plugs to t h e distributor cap. If t h e wire is t o b e removed from the spark plug, ALWAYS use a pulling and twisting motion as a precaution against damaging t h e connection.

2- At tempt to remove t h e spark plugs by hand. This is a rough test t o determine if t h e plug is tightened properly. You should not be able t o remove t h e plug without using t h e proper socket size tool. Remove t h e spark plugs and keep them in order. Ex- amine each plug and evaluate i t s condition as described in Section 5-2.

If t h e spark plugs have been removed and t h e problem cannot be determined, but t h e plug appears t o be in satisfactory condition, electrodes, etc., then replace t h e plugs in t h e spark plug openings.

A plug may indicate sa t is factory spark when i t is removed and tes ted, but under a compression condition, i t may fail. A conclusive spark plug test should always b e performed with t h e spark plugs installed. An example would be t h e possibility of a person being able t o jump a given distance on t h e ground, but if a strong, wind is blowing, his distance may be reduced by half. The s a m e is t rue with t h e spark plug. Under good compression in t h e cylinder, t h e spark may be too weak t o ignite t h e fuel properly.

Therefore, t o test t h e spark plug under compression, replace i t in t h e engine and

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5-12 IGNITION

t ighten i t t o the proper torque value. An- other reason for test ing for spark with t h e plugs installed is t o duplicate actual operating conditions regarding flywheel speed. If t h e flywheel is ro ta ted with t h e pull cord, and with t h e plugs removed, t h e flywheel will ro ta te much fas te r because of ' t he no- compression condition in t h e cylinder. The flywheel rotating fas te r will give t h e FALSE indication of sa t is factory spark.

A spark t es te r capable of test ing fo r spark while cranking and also while the engine is operating, can be purchased from any automotive or marine par ts outlet. The modest cos t for such a tool i s well worth t h e investment.

3- Use a spark t es te r and check f o r spark at each cylinder. If a spark t es te r is not available, use a pair of insulated pliers and hold the plug wire about 114" (4.35 mm) from t h e engine.

SAFETY WORD Never forget , this ignition system will

generate approximately 20,OQO volts t o t h e spark plugs. Therefore, TAKE CARE when handling t h e high-tension leads during trouh- leshooting or replacement work.

Turn t h e flywheel with a pull s t a r t e r o r electrical s t a r t e r and check for spark. A strong spark over a wide gap must be observed when test ing in this manner, because under compression a strong spark is necessary in order t o ignite the air-fuel mixture in t h e cylinder. This means i t is possible t o think you have a strong spark, when in

Checking Compression 4- Remove tbe spark plug wires. AL-

WAYS grasp t be m d c W cap an8 D ~ B jf l oose with a twistislp rsotisn t o prevent l a r r a ~ s to t h e connection. Remove t b e spark pAt!as 3 r d

keep them in ORDER by cylinder for C V ~ B V - ation later . Ground t h e spark plug lea& to

reality t h e spark will be too weak when t h e plug is installed. If the re is no spark, o r if t h e spark is weak, t h e trouble is most likely in t h e distributor magneto system.

Compression A compression check is extremely im-

por tant , because an engine with low or uneven compression between cylinders CAN- NOT be tuned t o opera te satisfactori ly. Therefore, i t is essential t h a t any compression problem be corrected before proceeding with t h e tune-up procedure. See Chapter 3.

If t h e powerhead shows any indication of overheating, such a s discolored or scorched paint , especially in t h e a rea of t h e top (No. 1) cylinder, inspect t h e cylinders visually th ru t h e transfer ports f or possIbBe scoring. A more thorough inspection can be made if t h e heads a r e removed. I t is possible for a cylinder with sa t is factory compression t o be scored slightly. Also, c k c k t h e water pump. The overheatinp, conditicsn m a y be caused by a faulty water pranrp.

An overheating condition r a y dss be caused by r u m i n g t h e engine ou t of t h e water. For unknown reasons, many opera- tors have t h e rslisconception t h a t runwine a n engine for a short period of t i m e without t h e lower unit subwerged in water , can b e done without harm. FALSE!

Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine m y time the engine is rm to prevent damage to the water pump and an overheating condition, Just dive seconds wi tbut water will damage the water pump

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DISTRIBCJTOR MAGNETO 5- 13

t h e engine t o render t h e ignition system inoperative while performing t h e compression check.

SAFETY WORD The spark plug leads a r e grounded as a

sa fe ty measure and t o prolong coil life. By grounding the leads the current has a path t o follow without creating a spark. Any amount of fuel in or on t h e engine, even t h e fumes from under t h e cowling, c r e a t e s a dangerous f i r e hazard. By eliminating t h e spark, t h e chances of igniting any fuel o r fuel vapors is drastically reduced.

Insert a compression gauge in to t h e No. 1, top, spark plug opening. Crank t h e engine with t h e s t a r t e r , or pull on t h e s t a r t e r cord, through at leas t 4 complete piston strokes with t h e th ro t t l e at t h e wide- open position, or until the highest possible reading is observed on t h e gauge. Record t h e reading.

Repeat t h e test and record t h e compression for each cylinder. A variation between cylinders is far more important than t h e actual readings. A variation of more than 5 psi between cylinders indicates t h e lower compression cylinder may be defective. The problem may be worn, broken, or sticking

piston rings, scored pistons car worn cylinders. These problems may only b e determined a f t e r t h e head has been removed. Removing t h e head on an outboard engine is not t h a t big a deal, and may s a v e many hours of frustrat ion and t h e cost of purchasing unnecessary par ts t o correct a faul ty condition.

In most cases, under normal operating conditions of a V4 engine, t h e No. 4 cylinder usually causes problems before the other three. You ask, "Why is th is so?" No man, including fac to ry engineers a r e ab le t o give a logical and scientif ic answer. So be it!

If an overheating condition exists, t h e No. 1 cylinder suffers t h e most.

5-6 SERVICING THE MAGNETO IGNITION SYSTEM 50 HP - 1958 and 1959 60 HP -- 1%4 to 1%6 75 HP - 1960 to 1965 80 HP - 1966

WORDS OF ADVICE I t would be worth t h e t i m e t o read and

understand t h e information presented in Sections 5-1 thru 5-5 before s tar t ing t r o w bleshooting or service work on t h e ignition system.

GENERAL INFORMATION

Magneto ignition overhaul procedures may differ slightly on various outboard models, but t h e fdlowing general basic instruc- tion will apply t o all V4 magneto engines.

The breaker points should b e carefully inspected before proceeding with more involved troubleshooting. On outboard engines, a very small amount of pitting, d i r t , oil, or oxidation will rob t h e engine of power and should be corrected. If in doubt RE- PLACE t h e point set.

When replacing a point set or performing other distributor service work, i t is always best t o remove the- distributor from t h e engine. Realistically, removal of t h e distributor is necessary t o do any work properly*

REMOVAL

1- Disconnect the ba t t e ry l eads from t h e ba t t e ry terminals. Remove t h e high- tension leads from t h e spark plugs. Use a pulling and twisting motioh as a precaution

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5- 14 IGNITION

ignition system will NOT res tore t h e engine to satisfactory performance if t h e compression is weak in one cylinder or uneven between t h e four.

3- Remove t h e th ree screws securing t h e pla te t o t h e top of t h e distributor pulley. Notice how the pla te has a bevelled edge facing upward. The pla te must b e installed with t h e bevel facing upward. If t h e bevel faces downward t h e distr ibutor

against damaging t h e connections. Release t h e high-tension leads t o t h e distributor by opening t h e retainers on each head. These retainers a r e split on t h e side and by using a pair of pliers they may be bent slightly t o faci l i ta te removal. Take c a r e not t o l o s e t h e rubber bushings f rom inside t h e retainers. Notice how each bushing has a groove on t h e inside t o allow i t t o seat properly in t h e retainer,

2- Remove and examine each spark plug as an a id in determing how tha t part icular cylinder has been operating. Check t h e electrodes carefully. A bent e lect rode is an indication of a faulty wrist pin in t h a t piston assembly. If a compression check Ras not been made, as described earl ier in this chapte r , perform a check on each cylinder at th is time. Correcting conditions in t h e

be1 t will be cut . Squeeze t h e t iming be1 t together as t ightly as possible with one hand and at the s a m e t ime, remove t h e n u t on t o p of t h e distributor pulley with t h e o ther hand and a wrench. After the nut has been removed, slip t h e timing belt f r e e of t h e pulley. Disconnect t h e "kill" wire on the starboard side of t h e magneto.

GOOD NEWS Do not worry about removing t h e t iming

belt or o ther items. No problem! Detailed t iming procedures a r e presented l a t e r in this section.

4- Remove t h e two screws from t h e distributor advance arm. This is t h e a rm t h a t connects t h e distributor t o t h e tower shaft . Slip t h e "kill" wire f r e e of t h e "kill" switch. If this switch is a part of t h e

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DISTRIBUTOR MAGNETO 5- 15

system, i t is installed on t h e por t side of t h e magneto. Remove t h e th ree bolts securing t h e magneto bracket t o t h e block. These 'bolts a r e located just a f t and t o the port side of t h e flywheel. Lif t t h e distr ibutor f r e e of t h e engine.

SERVICING

5- Clean the exterior of t h e magneto using a wire brush, solvent, and compressed air , as required. NEVER submerge t h e magneto in solvent. Mount t h e magneto on a test block and slowly turn t h e pulley by hand. As t h e pulley is turned, check for any feeling of binding or rubbing. If a definite binding or rubbing is f e l t , no fur ther tes t ing is necessary. The magneto must be disassembled because t h e bearings a r e bad1 y worn and must be replaced. Do not confuse t h e "pull" due t o t h e magnet ic f ield during rotation with binding or rubbing.

6- Hold t h e distributor a couple inches (5.0 cm) above t h e surface of t h e bench. Now, hold t h e distributor pulley firmly with one hand and at t h e s a m e t i m e t a p t h e center rotor shaf t with a soft-headed mal- le t . This action will "pull" t h e pulley from t h e shaft . If pulley fails t o come f ree , a flywheel puller will have t o be installed. Use t h e t h r e e cover p la te screws with t h e puller t o remove t h e pulley f rom the distributor shaft.

7- Remove t h e four screws securing t h e distributor cap. L i f t t h e c a p and gasket f r e e of t h e magneto assembly.

8- Pull t h e rotor f r e e of t h e distr ibutor shaft .

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5- 16 IGNITION

SPECIAL WORDS Two different type rotors a r e used on

Johnson/Evinrude engines. Both rotors appear very similar and both will f i t on t h e distributor shaft. HOWEVER, t h e rotor used with the magneto system has a wider metal surf ace on t h e end of t h e rotor than t h e one used on a ba t t e ry ignition system. If t h e wrong rotor is installed, t h e engine will never run satisfactori ly at full power. The accompanying illustration nAm will be helpful in distinguishing between t h e two rotors. When purchasing a n e w rotor, be definite at t h e dealer parts counter as t o which unit t h e rotor is to b e installed.

9- If new bearings a r e t o be installed in t h e distributor base, remove t h e cam, t h e n t h e key f rom the distributor shaft . A single key is used fo r t h e pulley and t h e cam. If t h e only work t o be done is t o replace t h e points, i t i s NOT necessary t o remove t h e c a m and key.

process. Notice how one wire extends f rom t h e condenser t o t h e s e t of points closest t o t h e condenser, then a jumper wire connects t h a t set of points with t h e other set. Ob- se rve t h e "Kill" wire extending f rom t h e second set of points through t h e distributor p la te t o t h e "Kill" switch.

GOOD WORDS 10- Disconnect the wire from t h e point Take a few moments and notice t h e wire sets and f rom t h e condenser. Notice how

routing. You may e lec t t o follow t h e prac- t h e wires a r e a t t ached sideways and a r e t i ce of many professional mechanics and tucked neatly d0wnwa1-d t o Prevent them t a k e a Polaroid-type picture of t h e wi re f ram rubbing on t h e bel t pulley- connections as an a id during t h e installation 11- Using a pair of needle-nose pliers,

remove t h e wire clips f rom both posts protruding through t h e cen te r of t h e point sets.

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DlSTRiBUTOR MAGNETO 5- 17

how each of t h e fiber washers has a shoulder on t h e inside, reference illustration '8". The washers a r e installed with t h e shoulders f i t t ing in to t h e hole. These shoulders keep t h e screw in the center of t h e hole through t h e housing and prevent i t f rom "shorting out" against t h e housing.

15- Remove the screw from each end of t h e coil. Observe t h a t me of t h e sc rews

12- Remove the screws securing t h e secures a ground wire from the coil. " - -

point sets and t h e condenser. Notice t h a t t h e point setscrews have wavy washers and t h e condenser screw has a lockwas her. DO- NOT remove the adjusting screws through t h e point sets. Be sure t o save t h e jumper wire between t h e two sets of points.

13- Slide t h e point se t s up and f r e e of t h e posts.

GOOD NEWS If the only work t o be performed is t o

replace t h e point sets and/or t h e condenser, fur ther disassembly is not necessary. Pro- ceed directly t o Step I following Cleaning and Inspecting.

14- Remove the small nut from t h e side of t h e coil housing. Save t h e fiber washer. Pull the bolt through the housing and save t h e fiber washer on t h e bolt inside t h e housing. These fiber washers prevent t h e bolt f rom grounding t o t h e housing. Not ice

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5- 18 IGNITION

16- Secure a good grip with a pair of needle-nose pliers onto one of t h e coil retainers, and then pull t h e retainer free. Remove t h e second retainer in a similar m anner .

17- Pull on t h e coil and remove it. The coil may appear t o be stuck, but i t is only t h e force of t h e magnets act ing against t h e coil core.


Inspect all par ts fo r wear or damage. Check t h e timing bel t for cracks, cuts , o r other damage. Test t h e coil, condenser, rotor, end caps, high-tension leads, and breaker assemblies.

Check t h e coil closely t o determine if the re has been any leakage t o t h e uistribu- tor housing. If in doubt as t o t h e integri ty

View inside a mqqneto distributor cap showing the two springs which must be in place during installation. for proper operation.

of t h e coil, have i t checked at a shop o r replace i t with a new coil.

Make a resistance test on t h e high-tension wires. The high-tension leads may be removed. DO NOT a t t e m p t t o pull t h e high-tension leads from the distributor cap. These wires a r e screwed into t h e cap. F i r s t pull the rubber c a p back onto the hiph- tension lead, and then unscrew t h e wire in a

Bottom side of a magneto distributor cap with the high-tension leads threaded into place. The embossed spark plug lead numbers are clearly visible.

A coil removed from a magneto ignition system.

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DISTRIBUTOR MAGNETO 5- 1 9

Rotors w e d with magneto ignition system ( lef t ) , and \, battery ignition (right). These rotors appear similar, 9"

a but they do differ and are not interchangeable, as explained in the text.

COUNTERCLOCKWISE direction until t h e wire is free.

Leakage Paths The high-voltage surge of t h e secondary

circuit may establish a path t o ground by a di f ferent route than across t h e spark plug gap. Once such a path is established, t h e spark will most likely continue t o jump across t h e ground.

A surface leakage path can usually be detected because of t h e burning a f f e c t t h e high-voltage spark has on the plastic insulating material . The condition causing t h e high-voltage spark t o s t ray f rom i ts intended circuit must be corrected. Any repairs of t h e unit should b e performed very CARE- FULLY, and should include discarding any insulating par ts with evidence of high-vol- t a g e flashover.

Corrosion One cause of complete magneto fai lure

is oxidation inside t h e unit. Such oxidation

Damaged distributor drive belt. The inside surface should be checked frequently for evidence of damage, particularly broken or missing "teeth".

is t h e result of continued high-vol t age arcing within t h e housing. Interior corrosion is easily de tec ted by t h e green discoloration of t h e copper and brass parts. A brownish deposit i s usually found throughout t h e unit, and sometimes evidence of moisture condensation may be found. Oxidation may be eliminated, if i t is de tec ted in t ime, by removing the cause. Three common causes of oxidation inside a distributor magne to are: a spark gap across a loose connection in t h e high-voltage circuit; carbon paths inside the magneto; and broken or sticking brush leads.

Usually an oxidized distributor magneto can be cleaned and returned t o sa t is factory service. Examine the cam for wear. The cam sur face must b e smooth and f r e e of rough spots o r a n y indication of corrosion.

INSTALLATION

Coil 1- Lower t h e coil into t h e housing with

t h e high-tension cen te r post of t h e coil UPWARD. Push t h e coil towards t h e rotor.

End of a spark plug high-tension lead showing the Worn and corroded breaker points unfit for further threaded end fitting and the cover boot. service.

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5-20 IGNITION

Exploded drawing of a magneto ignition system installed on the V 4 engines covered in this manual.

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1A Magneto & Bracket Assembly Complete Magneto Breaker

plate Assembly . Breaker Plate & Post Assembly

. . Retainer -Screen . . Screen

. . Spacer Screen

. Breaker Assembly Complete

. . Spring Clip

. . Clip . Eccentric Screw

. Screw

. Bracket

. Screw

. Screw . Oiler Clip . Oiler Wick

. Condenser

. Lead Assembly

. . Ring Terminal

. . Grommet

. Lead Assembly

. . Ring Terminal

. Bow Washer Nut Lockwasher Washer Screw Cover Pulley Screw Lockwasher

Screw Lockwasher Key Screw Cam Stop Washer Washer Magneto Bracket &

Bearing Assembly Bumper Screw Link Bow Washer Washer Magneto Housing &

Sleeve Assembly . Screen

. Spacer

. Retainer Spring Screw Screw Insulating Bushing -

Inner Insulating Bushing -

Outer Nut Sleeve - Link to

Magneto Coil Assembly . Terminal . Terminal Bearing Assembly Magneto Shaft -

The magnet ic pull of t h e pulley magnets act ing on t h e coil co re will hold t h e coil in t h e proper position. Work t h e primary and ground wires up alongside t h e coil to permit installation of t h e coil retainers.

2- Slip t h e two coil retainers down a- longside t h e coil, and then align t h e re ta iner screw holes with t h e holes in t h e housing.

3- Install t h e two screws through t h e coil retainers into t h e housing. REMEMBER one of these screws secures t h e ground wire. Tighten t h e screws securely against t h e retainers.


Lamination Assy. Washer Washer Bearing Support Screw Screw Rotor Assembly Spring Gasket Distributor Cap &

Screen Assembly . Brush & Spring

Assembly . Retainer . Screen . Spacer Lockwasher Screw Lead Assembly

Complete - Spark Plug

. Lead (Only) Spark Plug

. Nipple

. Terminal

. Spark Plug Termi- nal Assembly

Safety Switch Screw Nut Sleeve No. 1 and 3

Spark Plug Leads Insulator

84 Screw 85 Washer

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5-22 IGNITION

4- Place t h e screw through t h e primary wire, and then slip t h e f iber washer on to t h e screw so t h e washer shoulder, illustration 'C", will enter t h e hole in t h e housing first. Insert t h e screw through t h e fiber washer and housing. Hold t h e screw in place and slip t h e other fiber washer onto t h e sc rew with the shoulder of t h e washer indexed into t h e hole in t h e housing. This ar rangement , properly installed, will keep t h e screw in t h e center of t h e hole and prevent i t f rom "shorting out" against t h e housing. Slide t h e meta l washer onto t h e screw, then th read t h e nut on and tighten it securely. Check t o b e sure t h e primary wire is tucked down o u t of the way.

Distributor 5- Place the rotor onto the distributor

s h a f t and snap i t down into place. Check t o be sure t h e proper rotor with t h e wide t i p i s being installed, as described during t h e disassembly procedures.

6- Thread t h e spark plug high-tension leads in to t h e cap (if t h e y were removed). The cylinder numbers a r e embossed on t h e c a p at each hole. The correct lead must b e threaded into t h e proper opening in t h e c a p or t h e engine will not operate. Thread t h e lead CLOCKWISE into t h e cap. Slide t h e rubber caps in to place on t h e distributor cap. Check t o be ex t ra sure each wire is threaded in to t h e proper hole in t h e cap. The c a p has numbers s tamped into t h e material near each hole and t h e high-tension

leads have a tag with an identifying number. 7- Place a NEW gasket onto t h e housing.

Install the distributor c a p and secure i t in place with t h e four a t taching screws. Tighten t h e screws ALTERNATELY t o prevent warping t h e cap or putting i t under a s t ra in which could develop in to 'a crack at a la te r date.

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Cam Wick The c a m wick should be replaced each

t ime a point set is installed or a f t e r every 100 hours of engine operation. The cam

set has t h e base and is non-moveable. T h e other side of t h e set has a moveable arm. A small *re clip and a f l a t re ta iner a r e included in each point s e t package. NEVER touch t h e breaker point con tac t su r faces with your fingers. Such action will deposit an oily residue on t h e con tac t su r faces which will reduce the amount of current conducted through t h e points an t o premature pitting.

wick is especially lubricated and requires no Point Set fur ther lubrication. Any additional lubrication would shorten breaker point life. 10- Hold the base side of t h e points and

8- Install t h e cam wick. t h e f l a t retainer. Notice how t h e base has a bar at right angle t o the points. Q 9- Install t h e condenser in to t h e recess t h e hole in t h e bar. Observe t h e f l a t

in the breaker plate and secure it in place retainer. Notice t h a t one side has a slight with t h e screw and lockwasher. indentation. When t h e points a r e installed,

GOOD WORDS this indentation will slip in to t h e hole in t h e

All V 4 engines covered in this Section base bar.

use t h e s a m e set of points (Par t No. 11- Hold t h e base side of t h e points and

580390) and t h e s a m e condenser (Par t slide i t down over t h e anchor breaker plate. Install the wavy washer and No* 580256)* The points MUST be hold-down screw t o secure t h e point base t o

as are instal'ed* One side of each point the breaker date. Tighten the hold-down "

screw securely.

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5-24 IGNITION

12- Hold the moveable arm and slide t h e points down over t h e post, and at t h e s a m e t ime, hold back on t h e points and work t h e spring arm t o t h e inside of t h e post of t h e base points. Continue t o work t h e points on down into t h e base. Observe t h e points. The points should be together and t h e spring par t of t h e moveable arm on t h e inside of t h e f l a t post.

13- Install t h e f l a t retainer onto t h e f l a t bar of the base points. Check t o be su re t h e f l a t spring f rom t h e other side of t h e points i s on t h e inside of t h e retainer. Push t h e retainer inward until t h e indentation slips into the hole in t h e base. The retainer MUST be horizontal with t h e breaker plate.

14- Install t h e wire clip into t h e groove of t h e post.

Repeat Steps No. 10 th ru 14 f o r t h e second set of points.

15- Connect t h e condenser wire, primary wire, and one end of t h e jumper wi re

t o t h e set of points closest t o t h e condenser. Connect t h e other end of t h e jumper wire t o t h e second set of points. Connect t h e "Kill" switch wire t o t h e second set of points. After all connections have been made, check t o be sure all wires a r e neatly tucked down and s a f e from being rubbed by t h e pulley as i t rotates.

GOOD WORDS Point spring tension is set at t h e fac to ry

and does not require adjustment a f t e r t h e point set has been properly installed. In most cases, t h e contact points do not require alignment. Should t h e occasion ar ise and t h e contact points need alignment, CAREFULLY bend only t h e insulated par t of t h e breaker set t o achieve sa t is factory a- lignment.

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Breaker Point Adjustment Two methods a r e available f o r se t t ing

t h e breaker points, a s outlined in Steps 16 and 17. Follow ei ther procedure t o adjust t h e points.

GOOD WORDS Check t o be sure t h e holddown screw

with t h e wavy washer is tight. This sc rew must be t ight BEFORE t h e adjustment is made. If t h e screw is t ightened a f t e r t h e adjustment, in most cases, t h e adjustment will be disturbed as t h e screw is rotated.

First Method 16- Use a feeler gauge and adjust t h e

points when t h e cam is at t h e "highest" point. This is an effect ive procedure, especially when i t is necessary t o make a n adjustment away from t h e shop. With a fee le r gauge, adjust t h e points at 0.020" (0.52 mm). A wire gauge will permit a more accura te se t t ing than t h e blade-t ype.

Second M e t hod 17- An a l t e rna te and much more accur-

ate method of se t t ing t h e points is accomplished in t h e shop and requires t h e use of special equipment. First , mo$ify an old magneto pulley by cut t ing a 90 section out just t o t h e side of t h e timing mark. C u t o u t t h e section t o t h e hub.

18- Insert a small piece of cardboard between t h e set of points t h a t is not being adjusted. Remove t h e screw from t h e condenser t o t h e base plate, and then insula te t h e condenser from t h e housing by inserting a piece of paper between t h e condenser a n d t h e base plate. Next, install t h e modified pulley onto t h e distributor shaft. R o t a t e

t h e distributor shaf t until t h e t iming mark on t h e pulley is aligned with t h e f i rs t m a r k on t h e side of t h e magneto base. Now, one set of points is visible through t h e cu tou t section.

GOOD WORDS Check t o be sure t h e holddown screw

with t h e wavy washer is tight. This sc rew must be t ight BEFORE t h e adjustment is made. If t h e screw is t ightened a f t e r t h e adjustment, in most cases t h e adjustment will be disturbed as t h e screw is rotated.

19- Connect a continuity mete r or an ohmmeter t o one side of t h e point set t o b e adjusted and t h e o ther side of t h e mete r t o a good ground on t h e distributor housing. With t h e mark on t h e pulley aligned with t h e mark on t h e distributor base, adjust t h e

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5-26 IGNITION

points until they just close and t h e l ight comes on or t h e m e t e r indicates continuity. From this position, keep an e y e on t h e needle or t h e light and SLOWLY turn t h e point adjusting screw in t h e opposite direction until t h e light or t h e m e t e r indicates a -

broken circuit. This is it! The f i r s t set of points is properly adjusted.

20- Remove t h e piece of cardboard f rom t h e second set of points and insert i t between the points of t h e set just adjusted. R o t a t e t h e distributor shaf t until t h e second set of points i s visible through t h e c u t out section and t h e mark on t h e pulley is aligned with t h e mark on t h e distributor base. Con- nect t h e continuity mete r or t h e ohmmeter and repeat the procedure until t h e second set of points is properly adjusted.

Remove t h e test equipment and t h e piece of cardboard f rom underneath t h e condenser and f rom between t h e point set. Secure t h e condenser t o t h e breaker plate.

Distributor Installation 21- Place the distibutor in position on

t h e engine and secure it with t h e t h r e e a t taching bolts. Bring t h e bolts up just SNUG, at this t ime, t o allow adjustment of t h e distributor belt.

22- Slide t h e engine magneto pulley onto t h e distributor shaf t with t h e keyway indexed over t h e key. Install a f l a t washer, then a lockwasher onto t h e shaf t , and then t h r e a d on t h e pulley nut. Tighten t h e pulley nut.

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23- Connect t h e primary and key switch wires t o t h e starboard side of t h e distributor housing. Tighten t h e nut securely.

24- Connect t h e "Kill" switch wire t o t h e switch mounted on t h e distributor, if one is used.

5-7 DISTRIBUTOR BELT REPLACEMENT MAGNETO IGNllION

If t h e distributor bel t is worn, frayed, o r requires replacement f o r any reason, i t should be replaced as soon as possible.

GOOD WORDS Usually, a distributor bel t breaks be-

cause t h e engine is ou t of time. Now, ask yourself t h e question: "What caused t h e engine t o jump out of time?" Possibly a broken flywheel key or t h e key in t h e distributor shaf t has sheared. Should e i ther of these conditions happen, t h e engine will backfire breaking t h e belt. Therefore, t h e necessity of verifying t h e engine is properly t imed with t h e No. 1 cylinder at TDC when a new be1 t is installed.

ENGINE MISTIMED If an engine is o u t of t ime, t h e r e must b e

a good reason. 1- Check t o determine if t h e Woodruff

key is broken or damaged. The Woodruff key is t h e most essential i t em in t h e t iming operation. To check t h e key, r o t a t e t h e flywheel CLOCKWISE until t h e No. 1 cylinder is at top dead cen te r (TDC). In t h e accompanying illustration, t h e head has been removed fo r photographic clari ty t o show the piston at TDC. Insert a small

screwdriver in to t h e No. 1 spark plug opening. The piston should be f e l t as being at top dead cen te r (TDC).

2- Observe t h e flywheel timing mark. The mark on t h e flywheel must b e aligned with the embossed mark on t h e wa te r cover jacket. If t h e marks a r e not aligned and t h e No. 1 cylinder is verified as being at TDC, t h e Woodruff key is most likely broken. Remove t h e flywheel using a proper flywheel puller and install a new Woodruff key.

3- If the be1 t requires replacement, simply c u t i t f ree . No loss. To install a new belt , f i r s t remove t h e hand s ta r t e r . Remove t h e t h r e e screws securing t h e pla te t o t h e t o p of the distributor pulley. Notice how

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5-28 IGNITION

t h e pla te has a bevelled edge facing u p w x d . The plate must be installed with t h e bevel facing upward. If t h e bevel f aces downward t h e distributor bel t will b e cut . Work t h e belt around t h e flywheel and onto t h e pulley under t h e flywheel.

GOOD WORDS Two tasks must now be accomplished.

The engine must be in t i m e and t h e distributor must be adjusted in t i m e with t h e engine. The flywheel will f irst b e set t o bring t h e cylinders t o t h e proper position and then t h e distributor will be t imed t o provide t h e necessary current t o ignite t h e fuel la i r mix- t u r e in t h e proper cylinder at precisely t h e proper instant.

Either t h e flywheel or t h e flywheel pro- tec to r will have definite marks as an aid t o t iming t h e engine. The flywheel mark may be just above or below t h e ring gear, or in some cases, t h e r e may be a red mark between t h e t ee th on t h e ring gear. A matching mark may be visible 06 i h e port side of t h e hand s ta r t e r bracket. On all engines a water cover jacket is installed on t o p of t h e powerhead. A mark is embossed on th i s cover.

Flywheel Alignrn ent 4- R o t a t e t h e flywheel CLOCKWISE un-

til t h e mark on t h e flywheel is aligned with t h e embossed mark on t h e water cover jack-

et. The No. 1 (top starboard bank) is now in t h e firing position and t h e engine block is considered t im ed.

Distributor to Engine Timing Timing t h e distributor t o t h e engine is

not an easy task. Therefore, pat ience and a t tent ion to detail is absolutely necessary t o complete t h e task for maximum engine perform ance.

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CRITICAL WORDS M) NOT use t h e marks on t h e distributor

base t h a t were used t o adjust t h e points. These marks a r e of no concern when t imine - - - -

0

t h e distributor with t h e engine. 5- R o t a t e t h e distributor pulley until t h e

boss mark on t h e pulley is aligned with cu tou t mark on the distributor base plate. This cu tou t is at approximately t h e 9 o'clock position of the distributor base pla te when viewed f rom t h e top of t h e engine. T h e cu tou t is just a bit hard t o see, but i t is underneath t h e bracket t o t h e powerhead.

SPECIAL WORDS If the distributor has a s t a r t e r cu tou t

switch mounted on t h e side of t h e distributor , bring t h e pulley mark t o t h e cen te r of t h e switch plunger, as shown in illustration "Dm

6- Hold the pulley in this position and slip t h e belt over t h e pulley and in to place.

7- Pull back on t h e distributor and tighten t h e t h r e e mounting bolts.

Be1 t Check 8- The distance between two sides of

t h e belt should be 4" (10.16 cm). The bel t tension is cor rec t when the two halves of t h e belt can be brought together with finger: pressure to 3-518" (9.21 c m ) t o 3-11/16"

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(9.37 cm). If t h e adjustment is not correct , keep t h e pulley from turning; loosen t h e t h r e e distributor mounting bolts slightly, make t h e adjustment, and then t ighten t h e mounting bolts securely. Again, check t h e tension.

9- Place t h e distributor cover on t o p of t h e distributor with t h e flanges of t h e p l a t e facing UPWARD. Secure t h e cover in place with t h e t h r e e screws.

10- Install t h e spark plugs in to t h e openings and tighten them t o t h e torque value given in t h e Appendix. Connect t h e proper high-tension leads t o t h e spark plugs.

11- Insert t h e spark plug high-tension leads back into t h e holder on t h e head with t h e rubber bushings in place. Check t o b e s u r e No. 1 and No. 3 wires a r e on t h e s tarboard side and No. 2 and No. 4 wires a r e on

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BATTERY DISTRIBUTOR 5-3 1

12- Mount the engine in a large t e s t tank or body of water and check t h e completed work.

The engine MUST be mounted in a l a rge test tank or body of water to adjust t h e timing. NEVER a t t e m p t t o make this adjustment with a flush a t tachment connected t o t h e lower unit or in a small confined test tank. The no-load condition on t h e propel- le r would cause the engine t o RUNAWAY, resulting in serious damage or destruction of t h e unit.

CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is r m to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump.

To synchronize t h e 50 hp -- 1958 and 1959 engines, s e e Section 5-25. To synchronize all other engines covered in th is section, see Section 5-26.

5-8 TYPE I1 IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR BATTERY 75 HP - 1961 to 1965 80 HP - 1966 and 1967 90 HP - 1964 and 1965 100 HP - 1966

DESCRIPTION

The ba t t e ry ignition system used on all V 4 engines has an al ternator included as a necessary component.

I t would be well worth t h e t i m e spent t o read and understand t h e information presented at t h e beginning of this chapter , Sections 5-1 th ru 5-3, covering t h e condenser, points, wiring harness, key switch, and other generail aspects of an ignition sys tem

BEFORE studying th is ba t t e ry distributor ignition system.

The principle of induction f o r sparking purposes is al ike in both t h e magneto and ba t t e ry systems excep t t h a t in a b a t t e r y ignition system, t h e source of primary current is t h e s torage ba t t e ry while in t h e magneto system the magneto generates i t s own primary current t o make i t a self conta ined system. Standard established maintenance procedures fo r both systems of ignition a r e basically alike.

The low-voltage current of t h e ignition system is carried by t h e primary circuits. P a r t s of each primary c i rcui t include t h e ignition switch, and a double set of c o n t a c t points, coils, condensers, and resistor wire.

The secondary circuit carr ies t h e high- voltage surges from t h e ignition coil which result in a high-voltage spark between t h e electrodes of each spark plug. Each secondary circuit includes t h e secondary winding of each coil, coil- to-distributor high-tension lead, distributor rotor and cap, ignition cables, and t h e spark piugs.

Electrical Flow The following paragraphs describe, in de-

ta i l , t h e electrical flow through t h e primary and secondary circuits for one bank of two cylinders. The flow is identical fo r t h e o ther bank.

When one set of con tac t points i s closed and t h e ignition switch is on, current f rom t h e bat tery , o r from t h e a l ternator , flows through t h e primary winding of t h e coil, through t h e con tac t points t o ground. The current flowing through t h e primary winding of t h e coil c r e a t e s a magnet ic f ield around t h e coil windings and energy is s tored in t h e coil.

Now, when t h e c o n t a c t points a r e opened by rotation of t h e distributor cam, t h e primary c i rcui t is broken. The current at- tempts t o surge across t h e gap as t h e points begin t o open, but the condenser absorbs t h e current. In so doing, -the condenser c r e a t e s a sharp break in t h e current flow and a rapid collapse of t h e magnet ic field in t h e coii. This sudden change in t h e s t rength of t h e magnet ic field causes a voltage t o b e induc- e d in each turn of t h e secondary windings in t h e coil.

The ratio of secondary windings t o t h e primary windings in t h e coil increases t h e voltage to about 20,000 volts. This high voltage t ravels through a cable t o t h e cen-

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5-32 IGNITION

t e r of t h e distributor cap, through t h e rotor t o an adjacent distributor c a p con tac t point, and then on through one of t h e ignition wires t o a spark plug.

When t h e high-voltage surge reaches t h e spark plug i t jumps t h e gap between t h e insulated cen te r e lect rode and t h e grounded side electrode. This high voltage jump a- cross the electrodes produces t h e energy

required t o ignite t h e compressed air-fuel mixture in the cylinder.

The ent i re electrical build-up, break down, and t ransfer of voltage is repeated as each lobe of t h e distributor c a m passes t h e rubbing block on t h e contact breaker a r m , causing t h e con tac t points t o open and close. When t h e engine is operating at a high rpm ra te , t h e number of t imes this

A = CYLINDERS 2 8 4

B = CYLINDERS 1 8 3 1

Functional diagram of a battery ignition system with component parts identified.

NEGATIVE BAlTERY

CABLE

POSITIVE BATTERY RED

CABLE

- -.-

- - -

- + -

(

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BATTERY DISTRIBUTOR 5-33

sequence of action t akes place is staggering. All ba t t e ry ignition systems use t h e

s a m e set of points (Par t No. 580290) and t h e s a m e condenser (Par t No. 580256).

Breaker Assembly The breaker assembly, illustration "A",

consists of two s e t s of P a r t No. 580290. Each P a r t No. package includes two sets of primary breaker goints connected in parallel and spaced at 90 ; a two-lobed breaker c a m which is keyed t o t h e rotor shaft ; and a condenser. The lobes of t h e c a m a r e spaced I 80' apart .

With the engine running at 4,000 rprn, 16,000 power impulses occur every minute. Therefore, 16,000 spark impulses a r e required t o f i re t h e compressed charges in each of t h e four cylinders.

Two sets of breaker points in parallel and spaced at 90° a r e ac tua ted by t h e two lobed breaker cam. This arrangement equalizes t h e individual breaker point "load". Each set of breaker points share half t h e load by operating or breaking 8,000 t imes per minute or twice the engine running speed to f i r e just two cylinders. The o ther set of points f i r es the other two cylinders.

A check of t h e schemat ic wiring diagram in this section will assist in understanding how this is accomplished. Looking at i t another way, a single set of breaker points operating on a four-lobed cam would b e required t o interrupt the primary c i rcui t 16,000 t imes per minute, if t h e engine were running at 4,000 rpm, t o f i r e the four cylinders.

With t h e double breaker installation spaced at 90°, t h e contour of t h e two-lobed

breaker c a m has been calibrated t o permit both sets of points t o remain open simul tan- eously f o r short intervals, but never closed simultaneously. The breaker points thus a l ternate ly make and break t h e primary c i rcui t t o share t h e load.

The breaker base and point assemblies may appear t o be the s a m e as those install- e d in t h e flywheel magneto system but t h e y a r e NOT interchangeable. The difference is in t h e mounting base. The diameter of t h e breaker point f a c e has been increased t o 3/16" (4.76 mm) t o prolong i t s a c t i v e life. Condenser

The condenser (Par t No. 580256) is of conventional design and construction, shunt- ed or bridged across the breaker points.

The condenser prevents excessive arcing between the operating breaker points and the re fore contributes significantly t o pro- longing t h e act ive l i f e of the point set. Of more importance, however, t h e condenser makes possible t h e surge of high voltage intensity required t o ignite t h e compressed fuel vapor charge in each cylinder.

Resistor Wire As mentioned several t imes, th is system

utilizes a resistor wire, illustration 'Bm. This is t h e white l ead with the red t race r running f rom t h e positive post of t h e ignition coil t o t h e wiring harness of t h e motor assembly. On some l a t e r model units, th is resistor wire is in the wiring harness f rom t h e engine t o t h e key switch. This wire is a definite length and must NEVER be shortened.

The following description of current flow is valid for each resistor wire.

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Beginning at t h e key switch, current flows t o t h e resistor wire and then t o t h e positive side of the coil. When t h e resistor wire is cold, i t s resistance is approximately 1.0 ohm. As t h e t empera tu re of t h e resistor wire rises, t h e resistance of t h e wire increases in a definite proportion.

While t h e engine is operating at idle o r slow speed, t h e cam on t h e distributor s h a f t revolves at a relatively slow rate. There- fore, t h e breaker points remain closed f o r a slightly longer period of time. Because t h e points remain closed longer, more current i s allowed t o flow. This current flow heats t h e resistor wire and increases its resistance t o cu t down on current flow. This current reduction minimizes burning of t h e c o n t a c t points.

During high rpm engine operation, t h e reduced current flow allows t h e resistor wire t o cool enough t o reduce resistance, thus increasing t h e current flow and effectiveness of t h e ignition system for high- speed performance.

The voltage drops about 25% during engine cranking due t o t h e heavy current demands of the s tar ter . These demands reduce t h e voltage available f o r t h e ignition system.

GOOD WORD If the coil appears t o have a very shor t

l i fe and requires replacement at shor t intervals, t h e cause is almost always with t h e resistor wire. Someone has removed i t , t h e wire has become disconnected, o r is defec- t ive and not ab le t o perform i t s job.

When replacing a coil, illustration "C", make every a t t e m p t t o use a marine replacement. If an automobile type coil is installed, it should be t h e type requiring an outside resistor. If the coil has a built-in resistor and t h e marine fac to ry resistor wire is used, obviously t o o much resistance would b e in t h e system.

In brief, if an automobile coil with an internal resistor is used, t h e resistor wire on t h e outboard must be disconnected. If t h e coil uses an outside resistor -- no problem -- proceed as if i t were a marine coil.

5-9 TROUBLESHOOTING 75 HP - 1961 to 1965 80 HP - I966 and 1967 90 HP - 1%4 and 1%5 100 HP - 1966

Always a t t e m p t t o proceed with t h e troubleshooting in an orderly manner. T h e shot gun approach will only result in wasted t ime, incorrect diagnosis, replacement of unnecessary parts , and frustration.

Begin t h e ignition system troubleshooting with t h e spark plugs and continue through t h e system until t h e source of trouble is located.

Spark Plugs I- Check t h e plug wires t o be sure they

a r e properly connected. Check t h e en t i re length of t h e wires from t h e plugs t o t h e distributor. If t h e wire is t o be removed f rom the spark plug, ALWAYS use a pulling and twisting motion as a precaution against damaging t h e connection. The distributor c a p has numbers embossed on t h e outside

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surface. The proper high-tension l ead must be installed in to t h e proper opening in t h e c a p or the engine will not operate. The high-tension leads a r e threaded in to t h e distributor c a p openings. If t h e leads must b e removed, r o t a t e each lead COUNTER- CLOCKWISE until the l ead is free. During installation, t h e lead must b e threaded in to t h e c a p CLOCKWISE.

2- At tempt t o remove t h e spark plugs by hand. This is a rough test t o determine if t h e plug i s t ightened properly. You should not be ab le t o remove t h e plug without using t h e proper socket s ize tool. Remove t h e spark plugs and keep them in order. Ex- amine each plug and evaluate i t s condition as described in Section 5-2.

A conclusive spark plug: test should ai- ways be performed with t h e spark plugs installed. A plug may indicate sa t is factory spark when i t is removed and tes ted, but may fail when tes ted under compression. An example would be t h e possibility of a person being able t o jump a given distance on t h e ground, but if a strong wind is blowing, his distance may be reduced by half. The s a m e is t r u e with t h e spark plug. Under good compression in the cylinder, t h e spark may be too weak to ignite t h e fuel proper1 y.

Therefore, t o test the spark plug under compression, replace i t in t h e engine and t ighten it t o t h e proper torque value. An- other reason fo r test ing f o r spark with t h e plugs installed is t o duplicate actual operating conditions regarding flywheel speed. If t h e flywheel is ro ta ted with t h e pull cord with t h e plugs removed, t h e flywheel will r o t a t e much fas te r because of t h e no-compression condition in t h e cylinder, giving t h e FALSE indication of sa t is factory spark.

A spark t es te r capable of test ing for spark while cranking and also while t h e engine is operating, can be purchased from any automotive o r marine parts outlet . The modest cos t for such a tool i s well worth t h e investment.

3- Use a spark t es te r and check fo r spark at each cylinder. If a spark t es te r i s not available, hold the plug wire about 114" (6.35 mm) f rom t h e engine with a pair of insulated pliers.

S A F E N WORDS Never forget , this ignition system will

generate approximately 20,000 volts t o t h e spark plugs. Therefore, TAKE CARE when hand ing t h e high-tension leads during troubleshooting or replacement work.

R o t a t e t h e flywheel with a pull s t a r t e r or electrical s t a r t e r and check for spark. A

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5-36 IGNITION

strong spark over a wide gap must be observed when test ing in this manner, because under compression a strong spark is necessary in order t o ignite t h e air-fuel mixture in t h e cylinder. This means i t is possible t o think you have a strong spark, when in reality t h e spark will be too weak when t h e plug is installed. If the re is no spark, o r if t h e spark is weak, t h e trouble is most likely in the distributor, switch box, ballast resistor, key switch, or coils.


portant , because an engine with low or uneven compression between cylinders CAN- NOT be tuned t o opera te satisfactorily. Therefore, i t is essential t h a t any cornpres- sion problem be corrected before proceeding with t h e tune-up procedure. See Chapter 3.

If t h e powerhead shows any indication of overheating, such as discolored or scorched paint, especially in t h e a r e a of t h e top (No. 1) cylinder, inspect t h e cylinders visually thru t h e transfer ports fo r possible scoring. A more thorough inspection can be made if t h e heads a r e removed. It is possible for a cylinder with sa t is factory compression t o be scored slightly. Also, check t h e wa te r pump. The overheating condition may be caused by a faulty water pump.

An overheating condition may also b e caused by running t h e engine out of t h e

water. For unknown reasons, many opera- tors have t h e misconception t h a t running an engine fo r a short period of t i m e without t h e lower unit submerged in water , can be done without harm. FALSE!

Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump and an overheating condition. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump.

Checking Compression 4- Remove t h e spark plug wires. AL-

WAYS grasp t h e molded c a p and pull i t loose with a twisting motion t o prevent damage t o t h e connection. Remove t h e spark plugs and keep them in ORDER by cylinder for evaluation later . Ground t h e spark plug leads t o t h e engine to render the ignition sys tem inoperable while performing t h e compression check.


s a f e t y measure and t o prolong coil life. By grounding t h e leads t h e current has a path t o follow without creat ing a spark. Any amount of fuel in or on t h e engine, even t h e fumes f rom under t h e cowling, c r e a t e s a dangerous f i re hazard. By eliminating t h e spark, t h e chances of igniting any fuel o r fuel vapors i s drastically reduced.

Insert a compression gauge in to t h e No. 1, ( top starboard bank) spark plug opening. Crank t h e engine with t h e s t a r t e r , o r pull on t h e s t a r t e r cord, through at l eas t 4 complete piston strokes with t h e th ro t t l e at t h e wide-open position, o r until t h e highest possible reading is observed on t h e gauge. Record t h e reading.

Repea t t h e test and record t h e compression for each cylinder. A variation between cylinders is f a r more important than t h e actual readings. A variation of more than 5 psi between cylinders indicates t h e lower compression cylinder may be defective. The problem may b e worn, broken, or sticking piston rings, scored pistons or worn cylinders. These problems may only b e determined a f t e r t h e head has been removed. Removing t h e head on an outboard engine is not t h a t big a deal, and may save many hours of f rus t ra t ion and t h e cost of purchasing unnecessary par ts t o cor rec t a faul ty condition.

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In most cases, under normal operating conditions of a V4 engine, t h e No. 4 cylinder usually causes problems before the other three. You ask, "Why is this so?" No man, including fac to ry engineers a r e able t o give a logical and scientif ic answer. So be it!


5-10 SERVICING BATTERY DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION SYSTEM 75 HP - 1961 to 1965 80 HP - 1966 and 1967 90 HP - 1964 and 1965 100 HP - 1966

WORDS OF ADVICE I t would be well worth t h e t i m e spent t o

read and understand t h e information presented at the beginning of this chapter , Sections 5-1 thru 5-3, covering t h e condenser, points, wiring harness, key switch, and other general aspects of an ignition system and t h e information presented in Section 5-8 BEFORE working on th is ignition system.

This section contains detailed instructions t o service t h e ba t t e ry ignition system. The procedures include the necessary s teps

t o service t h e distributor including instructions to replace, adjust, and synchronize t h e double set of contact points. Replacement of t h e distributor drive bel t is also covered.

REMOVAL

1- Disconnect t h e ba t t e ry leads f rom t h e ba t t e ry terminals. Remove t h e spark plug wires. Use a pulling and twisting motion as a precaution against damaging t h e connections. Release t h e high-tension l eads t o t h e distributor by opening t h e re ta iners on each head. These retainers a r e spli t on t h e side and by using a pair of pliers t h e y may be bent slightly t o fac i l i t a t e removal. Take ca re not t o lose t h e rubber bushings f rom inside t h e retainers. Notice how each bushing has a groove on t h e inside t o allow i t t o seat properly in t h e retainer.

2- Remove and examine each spark plug as an a id in determining how each cylinder has been operating. Check t h e e lect rodes carefully. A bent e lect rode is an indication of a faulty wrist pin in t h a t piston assembly. If a compression check has not been made, as described ear l ier in this chapter , perform a check on each cylinder at this time. Cor- recting conditions in t h e ignition system will

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5-38 IGNITION

NOT res tore t h e engine t o sa t is factory performance if t h e compression is weak in one cylinder or uneven between t h e four.

3- Remove t h e t h r e e screws securing t h e distributor c a p t o t h e distributor housing, and then l i f t t h e c a p f ree .

GOOD WORDS After t h e c a p is removed, t a k e t i m e t o

notice t h e four posts extending up f rom t h e breaker point base. The purpose of these posts is t o allow t h e high voltage current in t h e distributor, t h a t normally ignites t h e fuellair mixture in t h e cylinder, t o jump t o t h e post if t h e spark plug wire should become disconnected f rom t h e spark plug while t h e engine is operating. Providing a path for this released current prevents dam- a g e t o expensive par ts in the ignition system, such as t h e coil.

SPECIAL WORDS Two different type rotors a r e used on

Johnson/Evinrude engines. Both rotors appear very similar and both will f i t on t h e distributor shaft. HOWEVER, t h e rotor used with the magneto system has a wider metal surf ace on t h e end of t h e rotor than t h e one used on a ba t t e ry ignition system. If t h e wrong rotor is installed, t h e engine will never run satisfactori ly at full power. The

accompanying illustration "An, will be helpful in distinguishing between t h e two rotors. When purchasing a new rotor, be definite at t h e dealer par ts counter as t o which unit t h e rotor is to b e installed.

4- Remove the rotor f rom t h e distributor shaft.

5- Disconnect the wire from t h e point sets and f rom t h e condenser. Notice how t h e wires a r e a t tached sideways and a r e

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tucked neatly downward t o prevent them from rubbing on t h e bel t pulley.

6- Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, remove the wire clips f rom both posts protruding through t h e center of t h e point sets.

7- Remove t h e screws securing t h e point sets and the condenser. Notice tha t t h e point set screws have wavy washers and t h e condenser screw has a lockwasher. Remove t h e point se t s and condenser. DO NOT remove t h e adjusting screws through t h e point sets. Be sure t o save t h e jumper wi re between t h e two sets of points. Slide t h e point sets up and f r e e of t h e posts.

Rotors used with magneto ignition system flef t ) , and battery ignition (right). These rotors appear similar, but they do differ and are not interchangeable, as explained in the text .


Inspect all pa r t s f o r wear or damage. Check t h e timing bel t for cracks, cuts , o r o ther damage. To replace t h e belt , s e e Section 5-11. Test the coil, condenser, rotor, end caps, high-tension leads, and breaker assemblies.

Check t h e coil closely t o determine if t h e r e has been any leakage t o t h e coil mounting bracket. If in doubt as t o the integri ty of t h e coil have i t checked at a shop or replace i t with a new coil.

Make a resistance test on t h e high-tension wires. The high-tension leads may be removed. DO NOT a t t e m p t t o pull t h e high-tension leads from the distributor cap. These wires a r e screwed in to t h e cap. Fi rs t pull the rubber c a p back onto the high- tension lead, and then unscrew t h e wire in a counterclockwise direction until t h e wire is f ree .

Check t h e cen te r a r e a of t h e distributor cap t o be sure t h e brush and t h e spring a r e in good condition and seated properly in t h e c a p recess. In some cases the - brush and spring a r e missing (they were not installed during t h e las t service work).

Battery ignition distributor ready for installation. The small spring and carbon cylinder must be in place for proper operation.

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5-40 IGNITION

Worn and corroded breaker points unfit for further service.

Leakage Paths The high-voltage surge of t h e secondary

circuit may establish a path t o ground by a different route than across t h e spark plug gap. Once such a path is established, t h e spark will most likely continue t o jump across t h e ground.

A surface leakage path can usually be detected because of t h e burning e f f e c t t h e high-voltage spark has on the plastic insulating material. The condition causing t h e high-voltage spark t o s t ray f rom its intend- e d circuit must be corrected. Any repairs of t h e unit should be performed very CARE- FULLY, and should include discarding any insulating par ts with evidence of high-voltage flashover.

Corrosion One cause of complete fai lure is oxida-

tion inside t h e unit. Such oxidation is t h e result of continued high-vol t age arcing within t h e housing. Interior corrosion is

Battery ignition distributor cap with the spark plug high-tension lead numbers embossed at each terminal point. Notice the threaded end fitting of the lower right lead. These leads MUST be rotated during removal and installation.

Spark plug fitting being installed in the high-tension lea& The prong must pierce the wire in the center to ensure a good connection, as shown in the illustration at the bottom of this column. A drop of saliva inside the boot will assist in working the boot over the fitting until the terminal is centered in the spark plug opening.

easily de tec ted by t h e green discoloration of t h e copper and brass parts. A brownish deposit is usually found throughout t h e unit, and sometimes evidence of moisture condensation may be found. Oxidation may be eliminated, if i t is de tec ted in t ime, by removing t h e cause. Three common causes of oxidation inside a distributor are: a spark gap across a loose connection in t h e high- voltage circuit; carbon paths inside t h e distributor cap; and, broken or sticking brush 1 eads.

Overhaul Usually an oxidized distributor can be

cleaned and returned t o sa t is factory service.

Check t h e cam t o be sure i t i s smooth without evidence of roughness or corrosion. If t h e c a m is not in excellent condition it should be replaced.

Diagram to show proper installation of a spark plug terminal fitting to the high-tension lead. See Caption for illustration at the head of this column.

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1 8 5 4

Exploded drawing of a battery ignition system installed on the V 4 engines covered in this manual.

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5-42 IGNITION

INSTALLATION

Breaker Cam First These Words

An oil- impregnated breaker actuat ing cam with double lobes is used on all V 4 ba t t e ry ignition systems. Both t h e lobes on t h e cam a r e identical. The c a m has two keyways machined on t h e inside t o t i m e t h e cam t o t h e distributor s h a f t and t o dampen c a m vibration. A Woodruff key is used for timing t o t h e shaf t and a de ten t spring i s used t o dampen vibration . S F t h e two cam keyways a r e exact ly 180 a p a r t and since each keyway is in exac t relationship t o t h e s a m e degree of cam angle with e i the r lobe, i t is permissible t o install e i ther keyway over t h e Woodruff key -- providing t h e side of t h e cam marked TOP is facing upward.

1- Install t h e c a m (if i t was removed) t o t h e distributor shaf t with t h e cam aligned with t h e Woodruff key and t h e detent spring. When both a r e aligned, push t h e c a m against t h e distributor s h a f t nut.

The cam wick should be replaced each t i m e a point set is installed o r a f t e r every 100 hours of engine operation. A new c a m wick is included in the new point set package. The wick is pre-lubricated and requires no fur ther lubrication. Any additional lubrication would shorten breaker point life. In- stall the cam wick. Install t h e condenser in to t h e recess in t h e breaker p la te and secure i t in place with t h e screw and lockwas her.

Breaker Point Installation GOOD WORDS

All V 4 engines covered in this Section use t h e s a m e set of points, illustration fBn (Par t No. 580390) and t h e s a m e condenser (Par t No. 580256). The points MUST b e assembled as they a r e installed. One side of each point set has t h e base and is non- moveable. The other side of t h e set has a moveable arm. A small wire clip and a f l a t re ta iner a r e included in each point set package. NEVER touch t h e breaker point contact surfaces with your fingers. Such act ion will deposit an oily residue on t h e con tac t surfaces which will reduce the amount of current conducted through t h e points and will lead t o premature pitting.

CRITICAL WORDS The position of t h e short connector lead

a t tached between t h e two sets of points i s of e x t r e m e importance during bresker m i n t

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installation. This lead must bend around t h e breaker post, as shown in t h e accompanying illustration. DO NOT allow t h e lead t o route over t h e t o p of t h e breaker post. Such routing will cause t h e No. 4 cylinder t o misfire.

2- Hold t h e base side of t h e points and t h e f l a t retainer. Notice how t h e base has a bar at right angle t o t h e points. Observe t h e hole in t h e bar. Observe t h e f l a t retainer. Notice tha t one side has a slight indentation. When t h e points a r e installed, this indentation will slip in to t h e hole in t h e base bar. Hold t h e base side of t h e points and slide i t down over t h e anchor pin onto t h e breaker plate. Install t h e wavy washer and hold-down screw t o secure t h e point base t o t h e breaker plate. Tighten t h e holddown screw securely.

3- Hold t h e moveable a rm and slide t h e points down over t h e post, and at t h e s a m e t ime, hold back on t h e points and work t h e spring arm t o t h e inside of t h e post of t h e base points. Continue t o work t h e points on down in to t h e base. Observe t h e points. The points should be together and t h e spring par t of t h e moveable arm should be on t h e inside of t h e f l a t post.

4- Install t h e f l a t retainer onto t h e f l a t bar of t h e base points. Check t o b e s u r e t h e f l a t spring f rom the other side of t h e points is on t h e inside of t h e retainer. Push t h e re ta iner inward until the indentation slips in to t h e hole in t h e base. The re ta iner MUST b e horizontal with t h e breaker plate.

5- Install t h e wire clip in to t h e groove of t h e ~ o s t .

Repeat Steps No. 2 thru 5 fo r t h e second set of points.

6- Connect t h e condenser wire and one end of t h e jumper wire t o t h e set of points closest t o t h e condenser. Connect t h e o ther end of t h e jumper wire and t h e primary wire t o the second set of points. After all connections have been made, check to b e sure all wires are neatly tucked down and s a f e f rom being rubbed by t h e rotor a s i t rotates.

GOOD WORDS Point spring tension is set at t h e f a c t o r y

and does not require adjustment a f t e r t h e point set has been properly installed. In most cases, t h e contact points do not require alignment. Should t h e occasion ar ise

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5-44 IGNITION

and t h e contact points need alignment, CAREFULLY bend only t h e insulated par t of t h e breaker set t o achieve sa t is factory a- lignment.

Breaker Point Adjustment Two methods a r e available f o r se t t ing

t h e breaker points, as outlined in Steps 7 and 8. Follow either procedure t o adjust t h e points.

CRITICAL WORDS When adjusting ignition breaker points,

ALWAYS r o t a t e t h e distributor pulley in t h e normal operating direction by turning t h e engine flywheel CLOCKWISE (when viewed f rom above the engine) If t h e flywheel should be turned in t h e wrong direction, t h e water pump in t h e lower unit would be damaged.

MORE GOOD WORDS Check t o be sure the hold down screw

with t h e wavy washer is tight. This sc rew must be t ight BEFORE t h e adjustment is made. If t h e screw is t ightened a f t e r t h e adjustment, in most cases the adjustment will be disturbed as t h e screw is rotated. The bel t has been removed for t h e next two s teps ONLY for photographic clarity. T h e blet need NOT b e removed t o make t h e adjustment.

First Method 7- R o t a t e the flywheel CLOCKWISE un-

til t h e point set heel is on t h e highest pa r t of t h e cam, and then use a feeler gauge and

adjust t h e points. This is an e f fec t ive procedure, especially when i t is necessary t o make an adjustment away f rom t h e shop. With a feeler gauge, adjust the points at 0.020" (0.52 mm). A wire gauge will pe rmi t a more accura te se t t ing than t h e blade- type. Repea t t h e procedure f o r t h e second set of points.

Now, r o t a t e t h e flywheel a couple complete turns, and then check t h e point gap setting.

Second Met hod 8- A much more accura te method than

using either of t h e feeler gauges in t h e f i rs t method, is t o use a continuity m e t e r and t h e t h r e e timing marks. Observe t h e two raised

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marks on the distributor housing 90' apar t and t h e timing mark on t h e distributor pulley.

Disconnect t h e primary lead on the coil and remove t h e condenser hold down screw. DO NOT disconnect the lead f rom the point set. Lay t h e condenser on a piece of cardboard. Slide a piece of cardboard between t h e points of t h e s e t identified a s "BVV in the accompanying illustration. The purpose of t h e cardboard is t o prevent me- t e r current flow t o ground through t h e points.

9- Connect a continuity l ight or an ohmmeter t o one side of t h e point se t , identified a s "AtV and the other side of t h e m e t e r t o a good ground on t h e engine. R o t a t e the flywheel CLOCKWISE until t h e distributor pulley timing mark is aligned with the mark identified a s "AtV on the casting of t h e distributor base. Adjust t h e points until they just close and the l ight comes on or t h e m e t e r indicates continuity. From this position, keep an e y e on the needle or t h e light and SLOWLY turn t h e point adjusting screw in the opposite direction until t h e light or t h e m e t e r indicates a broken circuit. This is it! The f i rs t set of points is properly adjusted.

10- Remove the piece of cardboard f rom point s e t "Bn and insert i t between t h e points of the s e t "AtV. To adjust t h e second point se t , f i rs t ro ta te t h e flywheel CLOCK- WISE until the timing mark on t h e distributor pulley is aligned with t h e mark "B". Connect the continuity l ight or ohmmeter t o t h e second set of points "BrV

and repeat t h e procedure until t h e second set of points is properly adjusted.

11- Remove t h e test equipment and piece of carboard f rom t h e point set. Install t h e condenser. Secure t h e condenser in t h e recess with t h e hold down screw and lockwasher. Connect t h e primary lead t o t h e coil . SPECIAL WORDS

Two different type rotors, illustration "Cn a r e used on Johnson/Evinrude engines. Both rotors appear very similar and both will f i t on t h e distributor shaft . HOWEVER, t h e rotor used with t h e magneto sys tem has a wider metal su r face on t h e end of t h e rotor than t h e one used on a ba t t e ry ignition

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system. If t h e wrong rotor is installed, t h e engine will never run satisfactori ly at full power. The accompanying illustrations will b e helpful in distinguishing between t h e two rotors. When purchasing a new rotor, b e definite at the dealer par ts counter as t o whicn unit t h e rotor is t o b e installed.

12- Slide t h e distributor rotor into place on t h e distributor shaft .

13- Screw the spark plug high-tension leads in to t h e c a p (if they were removed). Slide the rubber caps into place on t h e distributor cap. Check t o be e x t r a s u r e each wire is threaded into t h e proper hole in t h e cam The caD has numbers s tamped in to

5-1 1 BELT REPLACEMENT AND TIMING BATTERY DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION 75 HP - 1961 to 1965 80 HP - 1966 and 1967 90 HP - 1964 and 1965 100 HP - 1966 and 1967

t h e mi te r i a l near each hole and t h e high- tension leads have a t a g with an identifying ENGINE MISTIMED number. If an engine is o u t of t ime, the re must be

14- Install t h e distributor c a p onto t h e a good reason* distributor housing with t h e brush and brush Firs t , check t o determine if t h e flywheel spring properly centered in t h e cap. Secure Woodruff key Is broken or damaged. This

t h e c a p in place with t h e t h r e e retaining key is t h e most essential i t e m in t h e t iming screws. operation. To check t h e key, r o t a t e t h e

flywheel CLOCKWISE until t h e No. 1 cylinder is at to^ dead cen te r (TDC). Observe the flywheei t iming mark. The mark on t h e

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flywheel must be aligned with t h e arrow on t h e flywheel ring gear guard. If t h e marks a r e not aligned and t h e No. 1 cylinder i s verified as being at TDC, t h e Woodruff key is most likely broken. Of course, t h e flywheel must b e removed t o replace t h e Woodruff key.

Second, t h e Woodruff key on t h e distributor drive shaf t may be broken. Replace- m e n t of th is key is covered in this section.

Third, t h e timing be1 t may b e str ipped or damaged with a few t e e t h missing on t h e inside of t h e belt. Replacement of t h e distributor timing belt is covered in th i s section.

REMOVAL

If t h e be1 t is being replaced because i t is broken, O R if t h e belt is worn and unfit f o r fur ther service, t h e following s teps a r e not necessary to remove t h e belt. If t h e belt is broken, naturally i t does not have t o be removed. If i t is worn, simply c u t i t free.

HOWEVER, if t h e bel t is being removed in order t o accomplish other tasks, then all s teps MUST b e performed in t h e order given.

1- Remove t h e high-tension lead f rom t h e center of t h e coil by f i r s t pulling t h e rubber boot back, and then pulling t h e l e a d f r e e of t h e coil. Remove t h e coil f rom t h e flywheel guard. Disconnect t h e a1 t e rna to r leads from t h e flywheel guard where the diodes a r e located (if diodes a r e used). Re- move t h e flywheel guard f rom t h e engine.

2- Remove t h e distributor c a p retaining screws, and then l i f t t h e c a p f r e e of t h e distributor.

3- Slide the rotor up and f r e e of t h e distributor shaft . Remove t h e two sc rews securing t h e breaker p la te t o t h e distributor housing. CAREFULLY l i f t t h e pla te f rom t h e housing. Work t h e heels of t h e point set f r e e of t h e cam. D O NOT remove t h e breaker point c a m from t h e distributor shaft .

4- Loosen t h e th ree distributor bracket bolts and push t h e distributor towards t h e crankshaf t t o relieve tension on t h e belt. Bring one bracket bolt up snug, and then l i f t t h e drive be1 t f r e e of t h e distributor pulley.

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5- Remove t h e flywheel cover. 6- Position a flywheel holder wrench ov-

e r t h e flywheel ring gear t o prevent t h e flywheel from turning.

CRITICAL WORDS NEVER a t t e m p t t o hold t h e flywheel

f rom turning by placing a screwdriver o r o ther object between t h e flywheel ring t ee th and t h e Bendix assembly of t h e s t a r t e r motor. Such pract ice will surely cause damage and misalignment of t h e s t a r t e r motor pinion gear or to the engine block. An expensive mistake just t o save t h e troub- l e of securing t h e flywheel properly t o remove t h e f lywhed nut.

Hold firm on t h e flwheel wrench and remove t h e flywheel nut.

Obtain an approved OMC flywheel puller t h a t lases t h r e e puller screws. At tach t h e puller with the f l a t side facing UP. Install t h e puller screws in to t h e holes normally used for t h e cover p la te screws.

Take up on t h e puller cen te r screw and at t h e s a m e t i m e have an assistant l i f t up on t h e f lywhed rim and s t r ike a sharp blow o r two against t h e center screw with a rnedi- urn-sized hammer. This combination of e f- for t s should unseat the flywheel from t h e crankshaft taper. If this action fails on t h e f i rs t t ry , repeat t h e procedure until t h e dl yw heel is unseated.

Slide the drive belt f r e e of t h e flywheel. Lif t the flywheel from the crankshaft . TAKE CARE not t o snag t h e s t a to r windings with the flywheel a s it is removed.

7- Uncouple t h e s ta tor e lect r ica l connector on the starboard side of t h e engine. Remove t h e s ta tor hold down bolts and l if t t h e s t a to r f r e e of t h e engine.

8- Lif t t h e distributor timing bel t off of t h e engine. These procedures cover removal and installation of t h e bel t in order t o accomplish other work. However, MOW is t h e t i m e to check t h e condition of t h e bel t and replace i t with a new one if the re is any sign of wear.

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IN STALL ATION

9- Lay t h e bel t down around t h e crankshaf t and in to t h e recess of t h e upper bearing cap. The bearing c a p has a slight f lange on t h e upper edge. The s ta to r rests on th i s flange. Two slots a r e provided at t h e back side of t h e bearing cap t o permit t h e bel t t o run through.

10- Lcwer t h e s t a to r down t h e crankshaf t with t h e holes in t h e s t a to r p la te indexed over t h e locating pins. Coa t the retaining bolts with Locti te, or equivalent mater ia l , and then install and t ighten t h e bolts.

READ AND BELIEVE Locti te, o r similar material , MUST be

used on t h e s ta tor retaining bolts and t h e bolts tightened securely t o prevent engine vibration from causing them t o backout and c a t c h on the flywheel while t h e engine is running. VERY BAD NEWS! Destruction l ike you wouldn't believe.

GOOD WORDS A very t ight f i t is achieved between t h e

flywheel and t h e crankshaft taper a f t e r t h e specified torque value tension is applied t o t h e flywheel nut. Surprising as i t may

sound, i t is th is t ight f i t t h a t actually drives t h e flywheel during engine operation and NOT t h e Woodruff key. The key merely serves t o t i m e t h e flywheel t o t h e crankshaf t so the ignition timing marks can b e used properly. For this reason t h e crank- s h a f t taper and the inside flywheel taper MUST b e absolutely clean before t h e flywheel i s installed. There can be no t r a c e of grease and/or oil. Both tapers must b e DRY.

11- Check t o be sure t h e Woodruff key is properly positioned in t h e crankshaft. Lower t h e flywheel down t h e crankshaf t and at t h e s a m e t ime, work t h e belt towards t h e outside perimeter of t h e upper bearing cap. Continue t o lower t h e flywheel and work t h e be l t into t h e pulley on t h e underside of the flywheel. Install and t ighten t h e flywheel nut t o a torque value s f 70 t o 85 foot- pounds (94.9 t o 1 15.2 N.m) using an a c c u r a t e torque wrench and a flywheel holder wrench.

12- Install t h e flywheel cover p la te onto t h e flyhweel and secure i t in p lace with t h e t h r e e bolts.

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SPECIAL WORDS After t h e proper torque value has been

achieved, approximately one crankshaf t thread will protrude above the t o p sur face of t h e flywheel nut. If one thread appears, t h e flywheel keyway is properly indexed over t h e Woodruff key. If no threads a r e protruding above t h e flywheel nut, remove t h e flywheel and align t h e flywheel keyway with t h e Woodruff key. DO NOT a t t e m p t t o opera te t h e engine unless t h e flywheel i s properly installed.

1 3 R o t a t e t h e flywheel CLOCKWISE until t h e red mark on t h e flywheel rim i s aligned with t h e mark on t h e a f t port s ide of t h e water jacket cover, identified as BELT TIMING.

WORD OF CAUTION TAKE CARE when working with the

timing bel t loose t o prevent i t f rom becoming caught between the flywheel and t h e bearing head flanges. A new belt can easily b e c u t or damaged during t h e installation and timing work.

14- R o t a t e t h e distributor pulley until t h e notch in t h e pulley is aligned with t h e mark on t h e distributor bracket.

15- Work t h e timing belt onto t h e distributor pulley. Hold t h e distributor pulley timing mark aligned with t h e bracket mark.

16- Loosen t h e distributor bracket screw and slide t h e distributor away f rom t h e crankshaf t until both t h e distributor pulley and t h e flywheel pulley a r e engaged with t h e distributor belt. Take up on one bolt until i t is snug.

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Belt Tensim 17- Adjust the distributor until the bel t

tension will allow 5/16" t o 3/8" (7.94 mm t o 9.53,mm) deflection with slight finger pressure. Af te r t h e belt has been adjusted properly, t ighten t h e th ree distributor brac- ke t bolts securely.

18- Place the breaker p la te assembly in to position in t h e distributor housing. TAKE CARE t o work t h e point a r m s ou t and around t h e cam. Install t h e two holddown screws.

19- Slide the rotor onto t h e distributor shaft .


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20- Install the distributor c a p and secure i t in place with t h e t h r e e retaining screws.

21- Install t h e flywheel ring gear guard and secure i t in place with t h e a t taching screws. Install the coil and t h e coil holding bracket. Connect t h e high-tension lead i n t o t h e cen te r of t h e coil.

Timing Check 22- R o t a t e t h e flywheel CLOCKWISE

until t h e red mark on t h e flywheel is aligned with the arrow on t h e flywheel ring gear guard marked BELT TIMING.

23- The notch in the distributor pulley must b e in exac t alignment with t h e mark on the distributor bracket. In t h e accompanying illustration, par ts have been remov- e d for photographic c lar i ty and t o show t h e notch.

24- Mount the engine in a l a rge test tank or body of water and check t h e completed work.

Synchronize the distributor and carburetor, s e e Section 5-26.

The engine MUST be mounted in a large test tank or body of water t o adjust t h e timing. NEVER a t t e m p t t o make this adjustment with a flush a t t achment connected t o t h e lower unit or in a small confined test tank. The no-load condition on t h e propel- le r would cause t h e engine t o RUNAWAY resulting in serious damage or destruction of t h e unit.


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CD WITH SENSOR 5-53

5- 12 TYPE ID IGNITION CAPACITOR DISCHARGE (CD) WITH SENSOR 100 HP - 1967,1968, and 1972 115 HP - 1969 and 1970 125 HP - 1971 and 1972

WORDS OF ADVICE I t would be worth t h e t i m e t o read and

understand t h e inform ation presented in Sections 5-1 thru 5-3 before s tar t ing troubleshooting or service work on t h e ignition system.

GOOD WORDS This section covers t h e ignition system

f o r t h e horsepower engines and model years l i s ted in t h e heading. The Description and Principles of Operation paragraphs apply t o all engines. HOWEVER, s o m e of t h e troubles hooting procedures differ somewhat f o r each horsepower. Theref ore, each trouble- s hooting section will clearly indicate exact ly what horsepower and model years t h e procedures cover.

DESCRIPTION

This sys tem consists of th ree major components: A pulse transformer, a sensor, and an electronic pack. The pulse transformer replaces t h e conventional ignition coil. O n t h e 100 hp -- 1967 model ONLY, t h e sensor is installed inside t h e distributor and replaces t h e breaker points and condenser. On t h e other models, t h e sensor, rotor, and distributor c a p a r e installed under t h e flywheel. The electronic powerpack is completely sealed in epoxy and a t t ached t o a bracket on t h e lower rear motor cover. Special surface gap spark plugs a r e used with th is system.

Principles of Operation A transistorized converter s t eps up t h e

12 volt DC ba t te ry current t o 300 volts DC, and then s tores it in an energy s to rage capaci tor located within t h e e lect ronic pack.

A triggering circuit senses t h e trigger wheel position and closes an e lect ronic switch. This transfers t h e 300 vol t energy f rom t h e s torage capacitor t o t h e pulse transformer where i t is boosted again, th is t ime t o 25,000 volts DC. This high vol tage is t ransmit ted t o t h e spark plugs through t h e high-tension leads. For this reason, NEVER hold a high-tension lead with your hand

while t h e engine is being cranked or running. Such action could result in severe e lect r ica l shock.

Now, when t h e s torage capaci tor has discharged its energy at t h e spark plug gap, t h e electronic switch opens and t h e conver- t e r rechar ges t he s torage capacitor.

Service on th is t y p e of sys tem is l imited t o detailed troubleshooting, and then replacing t h e faul ty component.

SAFETY WORDS This system generates approximately

20,000 volts which is f ed t o t h e spark plugs. Therefore, perform each s t e p of t h e troubleshooting procedures exact ly as presented as a precaution against personal injury.

The following sa fe ty precautions should ALWAYS b e observed:

DO NOT a t t e m p t t o remove any of t h e pott ing in the back of t h e powerpack. Re- pair of t h e powerpack is impossible.

DO NOT a t t e m p t t o remove t h e high tension leads f rom t h e ignition pulse transformer.

DO NOT open or close any plug-in connectors, or a t t e m p t t o connect or discon- n e c t any electrical leads while t h e engine is being cranked or i s running.

DO NOT set t h e timing advance any fur ther than as specified.

DO NOT hold a high tension lead with your hand while t h e engine is being cranked o r is running. Remember, t h e system can develop approximately 20,000 volts which will result in a severe shock if t h e high tension lead is held. ALWAYS use a pair of approved insulated pliers t o hold t h e leads.

DO NOT a t t e m p t any tests excep t those l isted in this troubleshooting section.

DO NOT connect an e lect r ic t achomete r t o t h e system unless i t is a type which has been approved fo r such use.

DO NOT connect this sys tem t o a n y vol- t a g e source other than given in th is troubleshooting section.

5-13 GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING 100 HP - 1967,1968, and 1972 115 HP - 1969 and 1970 125 HP - 1971 and 1972

The following trouble shooting procedures cover t h e t h r e e most common causes requiring service: The engine fa i ls t o s t a r t ,

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t h e engine misses badly, or t h e unit lacks proper power -- performs poorly.

Always a t t e m p t t o proceed with t h e troubleshooting in an orderly manner. The shotgun approach will only result in wasted t ime, incorrect diagnosis, replacement of unnecessary parts , and frustration.

Begin t h e ignition system troubleshooting with t h e spark plugs and continue through t h e system until t h e source of trouble is located.

B a t t e r y Condition The bat tery , illustration "A", i s one of

t h e most important i t ems in this or any C D ignition system. The ba t t e ry should be ra ted at l eas t 70 amps with good c lean terminals and t ight cable connections. Double check t h e ba t t e ry hookup. The red cable should be connected t o the positive ba t t e ry terminal and t h e black cable connected t o t h e negative terminal. The o ther end of t h e positive cable (red) should b e connected t o t h e s t a r t e r solenoid terminal. The other end of t h e negative cable (black) should be connected t o a good ground on t h e engine. If a ba t t e ry should accidently b e connected t o a C D system backwards (wrong polarity), t h e diodes in t h e charging system will be damaged and the engine will fai l t o start . The cranking syst'ern will function but t h e ignition system will NOT operate.

Before spending t i m e troubleshooting t h e ignition system, check t h e complete ba t t e ry circuit to be sure all a reas a r e in satisfac- to ry condition: e lect rolyte level; ba t t e ry charge; d e a n terminals; t ight connections

at t h e terminals; and ba t t e ry leads f r e e of any f rayed areas, cracks or o ther damage.

Powerpack Grounding The powerpack on the original engines

l i s ted in t h e heading of th is section was grounded through t h e powerpack case and mounting bracket t o t h e powerhead. This method of grounding was not as sat is factory as expected. Therefore, a service bulletin was issued from t h e fac to ry t o install a No. 12 s ize flexible ground wire (OMC P a r t No. 376349) f rom one of t h e powerpack mounting screws to a bolt on t h e powerhead, illustration "B".

SPECIAL WORDS On t h e engines listed: If t h e engine

continues t o run a f t e r t h e ignition key switch has been turned t o t h e OFF position, o r if t h e engine is turned off and t h e boat appears t o suddenly move forward, t h e shift diodes may be at fault. See Chapter 8 f o r complete test ing and service of t h e shift diodes.

Spark Plugs I- Check t h e plug wires t o be sure they

a r e properly connected. Check t h e en t i re length of the high-tension leads from t h e spark plugs t o t h e distributor cap. If t h e wire is t o be removed f rom t h e spark plug, ALWAYS use a pulling and twisting motion

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CD WITH SENSOR 5-55

as a precaution against damaging t h e connection.

2- At tempt t o remove t h e spark plugs by hand. This is a rough test to determine if t h e plug is tightened properly. You should not be able to remove a plug without using t h e proper socket s ize tool. Remove t h e spark plugs and keep them in order. Ex- amine each plug and evaluate i t s condition as described in sect ion 5-2.

If t h e spark plugs have been removed and t h e problem cannot be determined, but each plug appears to be in sa t is factory condition, electrodes, etc., then replace t h e plugs into t h e spark plug openings.

A conclusive spark plug test should always be performed with t h e spark plugs installed. A plug may indicate sa t is factory spark when i t is removed and tes ted, but under a compression condition, i t may fail. An example would be t h e possibility of a person being able t o jump a given distance on t h e ground, but if a strong wind is blowing, his distance may be reduced by half. The s a m e is t r u e with t h e spark plug. Under good compression in the cylinder, the spark may be too weak t o ignite t h e fuel proper1 y.

Therefore, t o test t h e spark plug under compression, replace i t in t h e engine and t ighten i t to t h e proper torque value. An- other reason fo r test ing for spark with t h e plugs installed is t o duplicate actual sperat - ing conditions regarding f lywhed speed. If t h e f lywhed is ro ta ted with t h e pull cord with t h e plugs removed, t h e flywheel will ro ta te much fas te r because of t h e no-compression condition in t h e cylinder, giving t h e FALSE indication of satisf a c t s r y spark.

A spark t es te r capable of test ing for spark while cranking and also while the engine is operating, can be purchased from any automotive o r marine par ts outlet . The modest cos t for such a tool i s well worth t h e investment.

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3- Use a spark t es te r and -check f o r spark at each cylinder. If a spark t es te r i s not available, hold t h e plug wire with a pair of INSULATED pliers about 114" (6.35 mm) from the engine.

SAFEN WORDS Approximately 20,000 volts is produced

in t h e system and t ransmit ted through t h e high-tension leads t o t h e spark plugs. For th is reason, NEVER hold a high-tension l ead with your hand while t h e engine is being cranked or running. Such action could result in severe electrical shock.

R o t a t e t h e flywheel with a pull s t a r t e r or electrical s t a r t e r and check fo r spark. A strong spark over a wide gap must be observed when test ing in this manner, because under compression a strong spark is necessa ry in order t o ignite t h e air-fuel mixture in t h e cylinder. This means i t is possible to think you have a strong spark, when in reali ty t h e spark will be too weak when t h e plug is installed. If the re is no spark, o r if t h e spark is weak, proceed t o t h e troubleshooting section for the particular horsepower and model year engine being serviced.


portant , because an engine with low or uneven compression between cylinders CAN- NOT be tuned t o opera te satisfactorily. Therefore, it is essential tha t any compression problem be corrected before proceeding with t h e tune-up procedure. See Chap te r 3.

If t h e powerhead shows any indication of overheating, such as discolored or scorched paint , especially-in t h e a r e a of t h e top (No. 1) cylinder, inspect the cylinders visually th ru t h e transfer ports for possible scoring. A more thorough inspection can be made if t h e head is removed. I t is possible fo r a cylinder with sa t is factory compression t o be scored slightly. Also, check t h e w a t e r pump. The overheating condition may be caused by a faulty water pump.

An overheating condition may also be caused by running t h e engine o u t of t h e water. For unknown reasons, many opera- tors have formed a bad habit of running a small engine without t h e lower unit being submerged. Such a pract ice will result in a n overheated condition in a m a t t e r of seconds. I t is interesting t o note, t h e s a m e operator would never opera te o r allow anyone e l se t o run a large horsepower engine without w a t e r

circulating through the lower unit fo r ing. Bear-in-mind, t h e laws governing a t ion and damage t o a l a rge unit, ALL equally as well t o t h e small engine.

Checking Compression

cool- oper- apply

AL- 4- ~ G m o v e t h e spark plug wires. WAYS grasp t h e molded c a p and pull it loose with a twisting motion t o prevent damage t o t h e connection. Remove t h e spark plugs and keep them in ORDER by cylinder fo r evaluation later . Ground t h e spark plug l eads t o t h e engine t o render t h e ignition system inoperable while performing t h e compression check.

Insert a compression gauge into t h e No. 1, (top, starboard bank) spark plug opening. Crank t h e engine with t h e s t a r t e r , o r pull on t h e s t a r t e r cord, through at leas t 4 complete piston strokes with t h e th ro t t l e at t h e wide-open position, or until t h e highest possible reading is observed on t h e gauge. Record t h e reading.

Repeat t h e test and record t h e compression f o r each cylinder. A variation between cylinders is f a r more important than t h e actual readings. A variation of more than 5 psi between cylinders indicates t h e lower compression cylinder may be defective. The problem may be worn, broken, o r sticking piston rings, scored pistons or worn cylinders. These problems may only be determined a f t e r t h e head has been removed. Removing t h e head on an outboard engine is not tha t big a deal, and may s a v e many hours of frustrat ion and t h e cost of purchasing unnecessary parts t o cor rec t a faul ty condition.

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TROUBLESHOOTING 5-57

Electrical Tests The reference numbers used in t h e test-

ing procedures a r e matched t o t h e numbers on t h e accompanying diagram on Page 5-59.

GOOD WORDS Perform t h e following troubleshooting

procedures in t h e sequence presented. DO NOT skip a s t e p or add checks of

your own. DO NOT ant ic ipate what is t o be done

next, just keep in s t e p with t h e procedures and t h e work will move smoothly and orderly. Only in this manner will t h e fau l ty component be discovered in t h e shortest t ime and without frustrat ion.

Replacement of a faul ty component is covered in t h e Sections 5-17 and 5-18, following t h e Troubleshooting procedures.

The following t es t equipment is a MUST when troubleshooting th is system. Stating i t another way, "There is no way on this green e a r t h t o properly and accurate ly test the complete system or individual components without most of t h e special i t ems listed."

Voltrneter (0 t o 50 volts) Voltrneter ( to 500 volts) Ohmmeter DC Ammeter (0 t o 5 amps) Timing Light S-20 or M-20 neon t e s t light. Neon spark tes ter

CRITICAL W OR OS The troubleshooting procedures airesent-

ed thus f a r in this section apply t o all engines and model years l isted in t h e 5-13 heading.

The following procedures apply only t o t h e horsepower and model year indicated at t h e beginning of each group of tests.

THEREFORE, p e r f o m ody those tests given fo r t h e particular engine being serviced. All other tests and procedures may be ignored (skipped, fo rge t they a r e even given).

5- l4 TROUBLESHOOTING 100 hp -- 1967 a d 1968

CRITICAL WORDS BEFORE s ta r t inn t h e f dlcawinp t r suNe-

shooting procedures f o r this ignition system, TAKE TIME t o read and understand t h e system description at t h e beginning of Sec-

tion 5-12 and PERFORM t h e General Trou- bleshooting procedures t h a t apply t o al l models, Section 5-13.

The following t e s t numbers a r e matched t o test numbers on t h e accompanying wire diagram as an assist in performing t h e work.

FIRST, THESE WORDS: Power pack

The 100 hp engines have a powerpack and voltage suppressor installed original equipment, illustration "A". Now, if t h e powerpack is t o be replaced or if t h e pack was replaced somet ime in t h e past, t h e suppressor MUST be removed and discarded. In st her words, t h e engine will NOT perform properly (in some cases i t will not run a t d l ) if the voltage suppressor is not removed whew t h e new powerpack is installed. The ear ly model power pack can easily be identified by t h e horizontal c o d i n g ribs visible on t h e f ront of the pack.

Spark Plugs Any t i m e a C P ignition system is ser-

viced or trot~bleshooting procedures performed, t h e spark plugs MUST be removed and t h e high-tension leads grounded. Grounding t h e leads provides a path fair t h e electrical energy t o follow when t h e engine i s being cranked dearinn tests. This simple procedure will, prevent a cylinder f rom firing during a t e s t and will d s o prevent any fuel vapors around t h e powerhead f rom being ignited during a test .

Model Difference The 100 hp -- 1967 model is equippet

with a belt driven distributor. The 6968 model is equipped wi th the same cornpow- e n s , but they a r e 311 installed under t h e f l ywheel.

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5-58 IGNITION

ONE MORE WORD: If the engine being serviced has t h e old

power pack, perform all of t h e f 011 owing steps. If the engine being serviced has t h e new powerpack installed, perform Tes t No. 1, then skip t o Test No. 4 and ca r ry on with t h e remainder of tests .

Test No. 1 Voltage Test To Suppressor

Turn t h e ignition switch t o t h e ON position. Connect a voltmeter into t h e circuit at t h e connector just before t h e voltage suppressor. The meter should indicate 12- volts. If voltage is not present, t h e ignition switch is faulty, or t h e ba t t e ry is not up t o a full charge.

Test No. 2 Voltage Suppressor Check

If v d t a g e was present in Tes t No. 1, connect t h e voltmeter into t h e c i rcui t a f t e r t h e voltage suppressor. If voltage is not present, t h e v d t a p e suppressor must be checked. If v d t a g e is present, proceed directly t o Test No. 4.

Test No. 3 Suppressor O h Check

Cisconnect both Beads, one t o t h e key and t h e other t o t h e powerpack. Connect t h e ohmmeter t o t h e two leads. The meter skacndc' indicate 8.5 ohms resistance on t h e low scale. If 0.5 ohms is not indicated, replace t h e suppressor. If 8.5 ohms is indicated, proceed with t h e testing.

Careddy check t h e lead t h a t was connected to t h e powerpack. Turn t h e ignition switch t o t h e OFF position. Disconnect t h e lead csming out of the suppressor t o t h e poverpack. Connect t h e ohmmeter t o t h e red lead and t o a ground on the voltage suppressor. Check t h e m e t e r reading. Re- verse the ohmmeter connections. The ohmmeter shcrule give a reaeinp when t h e leads a r e connected one way Put NOT the other way. Hd there is no read,\np in ei ther ddirec- t im, or the re is a readinp i n both ~Grect ions , t h e voltape. suppressor i s definitely defec- t ive and mt.anst bc asdaced. If the voltage supprcssot gasses the tes t proceed with t h e bestinsn.

Test No. 4 Voltage Test

Connect a v d t n e t c r prcbe into t h e red leas' ts t he powerpack an? the other probe

t o a good ground on t h e engine. Crank t h e engine and observe t h e reading. The volt- m e t e r should indicate not less than 9.5 volts. If t h e reading is less than 9.5 volts, check t h e condition of the battery. One other possibility is a defect ive s t a r t e r motor drawing an excessive amount of current f rom t h e battery. If t h e s t a r t e r motor i s defective, conduct a "draw test" on t h e motor as described in Chapter 6 .

Test No. 5 100 HP - 1%8 Only Vacuum Safety Switch Test

This model unit has a vacuum switch mounted on t h e starboard side of t h e engine. A s the engine is cranked, th is switch closes and allows current t o pass through f rom t h e key switch t o t h e voltage suppressor and t h e powerpack.

The s a f e t y vacuum switch does not close and allow current t o pass t o t h e powerpack until the engine is cranked and vacuum pulls t h e switch in permitt ing current t o flow. This sa fe ty switch also prevents a hot engine f rom s tar t ing if t h e key switch i s turned t o t h e ON position immediately a f t e r a shutdown. Such a c i rcumstance could resul t in a RUNAWAY engine o r boat.

Connect a vol tmeter t o t h e output side of the vacuum switch and t o a good ground on t h e engine. Crank t h e engine and observe the voltmeter reading. The mete r should indicate not less than 9.5 volts. If t h e reading is less than 9.5 volts, connect t h e vol t m e t e r t o t h e input side of t h e swi tch andl again observe the reading. If t h e reading is 9.5 v d t s or more, t h e vacuum switch is defect ive md must be replaced.

Test No. 6 Powerpack Output

S e t the voltrneter t o the 500 volt scale. If the vol tmeter i s not available, a spark tes ter may be used for this test . The t es te r will flash indicating powerpack output.

Disconnect the green wire f rom the pulse transformer. Connect t h e red test l ead t o t h e green wire running t o t h e powerpack. Connect t h e black test lead t o ground. Crank t h e engine m d observe the mete r reading. The m e t e r should indicate 250 volts or more. If t h e meter f d l s short , t h e indication is an in te rmi t t en t shor t in t h e power pack. A sat is factory mete r reading indicates a good ~ o w e r p a c k . The problem is most likely in t h e pulse transformer.

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C-D TEST METER

"A" S80 OR M80 5 5 TESTER

Functional diagram of a CD ignition system with sensor t o be used with the tests on Pages 5-58, 60, & 61.

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5-60 IGNITION

Test No. 7 Intermittent Miss Engine Running

Connect the green wire back t o t h e pulse transformer. Connect t h e red test lead t o t h e pulse transforrner terminal where t h e green wire is connected. Leave t h e black l ead connected t o ground. S ta r t t h e engine and allow it t o warm t o operating tempera- t ure.

CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower mit . Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump.

Advance t h e th ro t t l e until i t begins t o misfire and observe t h e voltmeter. T h e mete r reading should not waver, but should increase t o 3 ~ 8 volts. If t h e mete r needle does waver, and in termit tent short i s indicated in t h e powerpack. If t h e vol tmeter i s sa t is factory , a s a f e assumption is that t h e powerpack is suitable fo r service. If t h e r e is no wete r reading while the engine was cranked, or if t h e engine f a d s to s t a r t , ~ r o c e e c ~ wi th t h e test ing in the next paragraph.

100 HP - 1967 Remove the c%sPrithutor c a p and r o t a t e

the c!Bsfrib~tor until t h e flat edge of t h e rotor is nardie! w i th t h e sevsor.

100 Hip - 4 968 Connec? a jurrper wlre ts bypass the

vacuurr switch. If t h c flyv~l-eel, s t a t o r , f i i s t r i h ~ t s r cap, and i- tor have not been rerroved, r m o v e then- at this time. Dis- connect t h e ~ V J O - ~ ~ C E wires f rom the sensor.

pulse transformer. Connect the blue wire from the neon tes te r (S-80 or M-80 ) t o t h e green wire disconnected Prom the pulse transformer. Connect the other t e s t lead t o a good ground. Crank the engine and observe the light. If the light i s strong and bright, the powerpack is acceptable for service and the problem is in t h e pulse transformer. If the light i s weak o r fai ls t o come on, e i ther the powerpack or t h e sensor is defective. To check the sensor, proceed with Tes t No. 9.

Test No. 9 Pulse Transf orrner Output and Sensor Check 100 hp - 1 967

Connect one side of a spark t e s t e r t o t h e high-tension lead coming ou t of t h e pulse transformer and t h e other side of the t e s t e r t o a good ground. If a spark t e s t e r is not available, use a pair of insulated pliers and hold t h e high-tension lead about 112" (12.7 mm) f rom the engine block. Remove t h e distributor cap and r o t a t e t h e flywheel until the rotor is parallel with t h e sensor. Slide a feeler gauge between t h e rotor and the sensor. A spark should be observed a t t h e spark tes ter or between t h e high-tension l ead and t h e engine Mock. If a spark is not observed, remove t h e blue wires f rom t h e sensor md momentarily ground them. Each t i m e t h e blue wires a re grounded a spark should be observed at the t e s te r or between t h e high-tension lead and t h e engine block. If no spark is observed t h e pulse transformer is defect ive and must be replaced.

Test No. 10 Sensor Circuit 1967 M d e l

I ? e m w . e t h e d i s t r i b u t ~ r c a p and connect an o h r n ~ e t e r t o t h e terminals of t h e sensor. Set the ohmwefer t o t h e low scale. The w e t e r sboulc' indicate 4.Q t o 6.8 o h r s . If t h e rea8ing is r o t within the required range, t h e sensor is 8efect ive and must be replaced.

The sersor on this model may be checked visually. Fernove t h e s e x o r and check i t tbosougkily for cracks tha t wsul? allow the [!nit t o short o u t to ground.

100 hp - 8968 If t h e fl y v l k e l , s t a to r , 3istrikwtor cap,

a d rotor have not heen removec", rewove then- a t th is time. F ' iscomect t h e blue wires from t b e sersor mC( r ~ * o m e ~ t a r i l y

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TROUBLESHOOTING 5-6 1

ground them to t h e engine block. Each t i m e they a r e grounded t h e spark t e s t e r should indicate a strong spark. If no spark is observed, t h e pulse transformer is defect ive and must be replaced.

Sensor Ci rcu i t 1%8 Model

Disconnect the two blue wires at t h e sensor. Connect an ohmmeter t o e a c h lead f rom the sensor. Set the ohmmeter t o t h e low scale. The ohmmeter should indicate 4.0 t o 6.0 ohms. If the reading is not within t h e required range, t h e sensor is defect ive and must be replaced.

Set t h e ohmmeter t o t h e high ohm scale. Connect one m e t e r Iead t o t h e sensor lead and t h e other lead t o a good ground on t h e engine. Advance and r e t r a c t t h e th ro t t l e t o shi f t the anti- reverse spring t o and from ground. The ohmmeter should read at l eas t 100,000 ohms. With t h e meter still connected, work t h e wires back-and-forth f o r indication of a ground condition.

Sensor Replacement All Models

When t h e sensor is replaced, t h e a i r gap between t h e rotor and t h e sensor must b e adjusted t o 0.028" (7.1 mm). GOOD WORDS F O R 1968 MODEL ONLY

The blue wires from the powerpack a r e routed onto an arm on t h e sensor base plate. The wires a r e then routed into a groove on t h e underside of t h e base pla te and held in place with a retainer and screw. Where t h e wires a r e held by t h e retainer is a common source of problems -- t h e wires may be grounded, The base pla te should be removed and the wires checked for a grounded condition. See Section 5-17 t o remove and install components.

T e s t No. 11 Amperage Input to Powerpack Check

The engine MUST be mounted in a l a rge test tank or body of water t o check t h e amperage input t o t h e powerpack. NEVER a t t e m p t t o make this check with a flush a t t achment connected t o t h e lower unit o r in a small confined test tank. The no-load condition on t h e propeller would cause t h e engine t o RUNAWAY resulting in serious damage or destruction of t h e unit.

CAUTION: Water must c i rcu la te through t h e lower unit t o t h e engine any t i m e t h e engine is run to prevent damage to t h e wa te r

pump i n t h e lower unit. Jus t five seconds without wa te r will damage t h e wa te r pump.

Connect a low reading DC ampmete r (0 t o 5 amps) in series between t h e key switch and t h e powerpack.

S t a r t the engine and allow i t t o warm t o operating t empera tu re at 500 rpm.

With the engine operating at idle speed, t h e m e t e r should indicate .4 amp t o .6 amp. A t high rpm, t h e meter should hold s teady and not exceed 2.75 amps. If t h e m e t e r reading is not within these l imits, t h e powerpack is defect ive (drawing excessive amperage) and must be replaced.

800 hp - 1967 and 1968 If the powerpack is t o be replaced, t h e

voltage suppressor will not be used. Con- n e c t the lead f rom t h e key switch directly t o t h e powerpack bypassing t h e voltage suppressor. In other words, if t h e powerpack is to be replaced, t h e voltage suppressor is no t used with t h e new pack and can b e removed and discarded. An old powerpack has ribs on t h e f ront side while the newer unit is smooth.

Restore t h e sys tem t o i t s original condition by removing all test equipment and making the necessary connections.

To remove t h e flywheel and necessary par ts t o replace an ignition component, see Section 5-17 or 5-18, depending on t h e engine being serviced.

To synchronize the engine, see Section 5-26 or 5-28.

To t i m e the engine, see Section 5-34 or 5-35.

5- 15 TROUBLESHOOTING 115 hp - 1969 and 1970

CFUTICAL WORDS BEFORE star t ing t h e following trouble-

shooting procedures f o r th is ignition system, TAKE TIME t o read and understand t h e system description at t h e beginning of Sec- tion 5-12 and PERFORM the General Trou- bleshooting procedures t h a t apply t o all models, Section 5- 13.

The following troubleshooting procedures cover t h e t h r e e most common causes requiring service: t h e engine fa i ls t o s t a r t , t h e engine misses badly, or t h e unit lacks proper power -- performs poorly.

Always a t t e m p t t o proceed with t h e troubleshooting in an orderly manner. The

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shotgun approach will only result in wasted t ime, incorrect diagnosis, replacement of unnecessary parts , and frustration.

Begin t h e ignition system troubleshooting with t h e spark plugs and continue through t h e sys tem until the source of trouble is located.

If t h e s a f e t y switch fails t o close and allow current t o pass t o t h e powerpack, several sources may be at fault: t h e s a f e t y switch circuit , rectif ier , shif t diodes, s t a to r , tachometer (if one is installed), or t h e flywheel magnets. The flywheel magnets usually do not cause problems unless t h e y become corroded, o r foreign part icles become a t t ached t o them.

SAFETY WORDS Before proceeding with t h e following

tests, t h e spark plugs should be removed and t h e high-tension leads connected t o a spark t es te r or grounded. This procedure will prevent a cylinder from firing accidently during a test . Grounding t h e leads will provide a path for the current generated during a test and drastically reduce t h e chances of a spark igniting fuel or fuel vapors around t h e powerhead.

Test No. 1 Key Switch Output

Attach the black lead of a low-voltage voltmeter t o a good ground on t h e engine and the red lead t o ei ther No. 8 o r No. " posts on t h e engine terminal hoard. T u r ~ t h e ignition key t o the O N position. The m e t e r should indicate 12 volts at e i the r terminal. If t h e meter fa i ls t o register t h e required voltage, e i the r t h e key Switch is defective or t h e ba t t e ry circuit i s defective.

Voltage Check Disconnect the red voltmeter test lead

from t h e engine terminal boar6 and connect i t t o No. 7 post on the terminal board. Connect t h e other m e t e r lead t o a good ground on the engine. Crank the engine. The m e t e r should indicate no less than 9.5 volts. If the meter registers t h e r e m i r e d voltage, t h e sa fe ty switch is satisfactory. If t h e meter indicated less thah 9.5 volts, one of th ree areas could be at fault: t h e ba t t e ry c i rcui t is not up t o full service; t h e sa fe ty switch is defective; or t h e s t a r t e r circuit is drawing, an excessive amount of v o l t a ~ e .

GOOD WORDS Ignition Safety Switch 115 hp - 1969 and 1970

This sa fe ty switch is installed between t h e key switch and t h e powerpack. T h e switch does not close and allow current t o pass t o t h e powerpack until t h e a l ternator is ro ta t ing and creating current. This sa fe ty switch also prevents a hot engine f rom accidently s tar t ing if t h e key switch is turned t o t h e ON position immediately a f t e r a shutdown. Such a ci rcumstance could result in a RUNAWAY engine or boat.

Test No. 2 Safety Switch Leakage T e s t

Remove t h e lead f rom No. 7 post at t h e engine terminal board. Connect owe lead of a test l ight t o t h e wire leading t o t h e s a f e t y switch. Connect the other lead t o a good ground on t h e engine. Turn t h e ignition switch t o the ON position. The t es t l ight should come on (glow). Disconnect t h e wires from No. 1, No. 2, No. 3, and No. 4 posts at t h e ter rnind board. If t h e light continues t o glow a f te r t h e wires have been disconnected, t Re sa fe ty switch is c'cf e s t i v e and must be replaced. If t h e l ight goes out when t h e wires are d i scow~ec ted st t h y terminal txard, t h e shi f t &odes, and the rectif ier must be checkecl. Procedures t o check t h e shi f t diodes a r e presented in Chapter 8. A check of t h e rect i f ier is ~ i v e n in Chapter 6.

Test No. 3 First Powerpack Outpult C k c k

Connect t h e black nreter lead of a high- voltage voltmeter to a gooe provnc? on t h e enpine. Connect t h e red m e t e r lead t o No. 5 post at t h e engine termim8 boar@. Crank t h e enpine and observe t h e areter. If t h e meter indicates a t l eas t 250 volts, t h e powerpack is sa t is factory f~hr cwtintlied service. If less than 250 VCR t s ghr PC" V O B P ~ P ~ is registered when t b e engine is cranked, proceed to Test Po. 4.

T e s t No. 4 Second Powerpack Output Check

Disconnect t h e blue wire frorn the No. 5 post a t the terininal board. Connect t h e S- 80 or the M-80 blue lead t o the blue powerpack lead and t h e black t e s t lead t o a good ground on the engine. Connect one lead t o the blue lead t o the powerpack, and the o ther lead t o engine ground. Crank the engine. The t e s t light should flicker. If the

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l igh t does f l icker , t h e powerpack i s sa t i s factory. If t h e test l ight fa i led t o f l icker , d isconnect t h e t e s t l ight and c o n n e c t t h e blue wire back t o t h e No. 5 pos t a t t h e t e rmina l board. P roceed t o T e s t No. 5.

Test No. 5 Third Powerpack Output Check

Disconnect t h e plug on t h e wires between t h e sensor and t h e powerpack. Con- n e c t t w o jumper wires t o t h e wires t o t h e powerpack. With a sma l l wire , bridge between No. 7 and No. 8 pos ts on t h e t e rmina l board. C o n n e c t t h e blue wire f rom t h e S-80 o r M-80 t e s t l ight t o t h e No. 5 pos t on t h e t e rmina l board. C o n n e c t th is t e s t l ight t o t h e No. 5 pos t and a good ground on t h e engine. Turn t h e key swi tch t o t h e ON position. Now, momentar i ly ground t h e wires f rom t h e sensor. Each t i m e t h e wires a r e grounded, t h e neon l ight should f l icker . If t h e l ight f l ickers , t h e powerpack is sa t i s- f a c t o r y fo r fu r the r service. If t h e l ight fa i led t o f l icker , t h e powerpack is d e f e c t i v e and mus t be replaced. Turn t h e key swi t ch OFF. Disconnect t h e jumper wi re frorn t h e No. 7 and No. 8 posts, a lso t h e t e s t e r l ead f r o m t h e No. 5 post.

Test No. 6 First Sensor Output Check

While t h e plug is s t i l l 4 i scsnnected pe r T e s t No. 5, d isconnect t h e t w o g'uwper l eads o u t of t h e plug on t h e s ick t~ t k powerpack. C o n n e c t t h e t w o Beds f r o r a n o h m m e t e r t o t h e two l ea& in the c o n ~ e c t o r t h a t run t o t h e sensor unckr t h e flvwbeel. If t h e o h m m e t e r in8ica tes o t h e r t h a n b.0 t o 6.0 o h m s the sensor instaJled under t h e f lywheel is de fee t ive and wust be replacec'. If t h e required res is tance i s indicatef19 proceed t o T e s t No. 7.

Second Sensor Check - for Ground Connec t one o h m m e t e r l ead t o t h e sew

sor l ead at t h e plug and t h e o the r $ex' a s a good ground on t h e engine. Open and c lose t h e t h r o t t l e t o sh i f t an t i - reverse spring to and f r o m ground. T h e m e t e r should i n d i c s t e at l e a s t 100,000 ohms. With t h e m e t e r s t i l l connected , work t h e wires b a c k- a d- f o r t h to ind ica t e ground. If a ground is discovere?, t h e sensor o r t h e sensor wires wust be replaced. If t h e sensor is found t o b e sa t i s f ac to ry , proceed to T e s t No. 7. Eis- connec t t h e o h m m e t e r a n 8 connec t t h e sw- sor plug together .

GOOD WORDS The blue wi re s f r o m t h e powerpack a r e

routed on to an a r m on t h e sensor base p la te . The wires a r e then routed in to a groove on t h e underside of t h e base p l a t e and held in p lace wi th a r e t a ine r and screw. Where t h e wires a r e held by t h e r e t a ine r is a common source of problems -- t h e wires m a y b e grounded. The base p l a t e should b e r emoved a n d t h e wires checked fo r a grounded condition. S e e Sect ion 5-18 t o r emove and instal l components .

Test No. 7 Other Ignition Items Check

R e m o v e t h e f lywheel and sensor. C h e c k t h e ro tor and d is t r ibutor cap fo r c racks , carbon t ra i l s , o r c ~ r r o s i ~ ~ ? ~ . Inspect t h e sensor for c r acks across t h e serasot eye. HP dl appea r s t o b e in s a t i s f a c t o r y condit ion, i n s t d l and adjus t t h e sensor to 0.028" (0.71 mm). Install t h e ro tor , cap, s t a t o r , and flywheel.

Test No. 8 Coil Output

With dl units in place and secure ; v 4 t h all test equipment c ' i s c o ~ n e c t e d ; an6 w i t h all originad wires csmnectes" back i n t he i r proper posi t ions, Pisconnect t h e p d s e t rans- f o r m e r wire f rom t h e disfritd~ltor cap. This high-tension l ead is Qhreacle? i n t o t h e cap , t h e r e f o r e , r o t a t e i t COUNTERCLOCKWISE until i t Is f ree . As the wire is t u rned , cousit t h e number s f r e v o l ~ t i o n s a s an aid t c connect ing i t l a te r . b E e f ~ r e Phreadinp i t back in to t h e c a p t h e wire PUS% be twistefl t h e reaui red nnwbeo of revolu t ions isn t P p oppos i tc direct ion. the^, v p k n it is ~ ~ O Z P C T -

l y irustelle?, t h e wire will net have apv tw i s t s , but f d ~ o w its mturad d i r ~ c t i w . ) T i w a pair of iminl?ted pliers m.ir Psd? tbe I-ivP- feyus i~s acsad a p r o x i ~ a t ~ h 1/3'"ll;P.7 n-vj f r o r P I ~ O I I P ? on t h e enp4rtc. Crmk t h e enpine. If t h e spark is weak or no saask If

ohserve?, t b ~ c o l - i s Sefectjw a d W C I S ~ be redacecqe

Test No. 9 Intermittent Miss Check

Connec t t h e black lead of t h e neon t e s t - e r t o a good ground on t h e ~ o w e r h e a d . C o n n e c t t h e o t h e r m e t e r l ead t o t h e No. 5 pos t of t h e engine te rminal board. Connec t

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the a m m e t e r t o t h e purple wire from t h e No. 7 post on the terminal board, and t o the purple wire leading t o the powerpack. This places the ammete r in series with the powerpack. S t a r t and opera te the engine.

CAUTION Water must circulate through the lower

unit to the engine any time the engine i s run to prevent damage to the water pump and an overheating condition, Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump and cause the engine to overheat.

Observe both t h e neon tes ter light and the ammeter . If the light f lashes or the ammete r needle wavers, replace t h e powerpack.

Restore t h e system t o i ts original condition by removing all t e s t equipment and making the necessary connections.

To remove t h e flywheel and necessary par ts t o replace an ignition component, see Section 5-18.

To synchronize the engine, see Section 5-30.

To t i m e t h e engine, see Section 5-36.

5- 16 TROUBLESHOOTING CW IGNITION 100 HP - 1972 125 HP - 1971 AND 1972

CRITICAL VORDS BEFORE s tar t inp t h e fdBowinp trouble-

shooting procet?cares B w this iswition systerr , TAKE TIME tc rea? an? understarnc' t h e system clescriptisn a t the beginning of Sec- tion 5-12 an61 PERFORM the General T r o w b-.lssbooti~g n r o c e ~ u r e s t h a t a p d v t o ail ~ o d e l s , Sec t i o~ 2-13.

SAFETY WORD The spark plug leads a r e grounded a s a

sa fe ty measure and to prolong coil life. By grounding t h e leads the current has a path t o follow without creat ing a spark. Any amount of fuel in or on t h e engine, even t h e fumes f rom under t h e cowling, c r e a t e s a dangerous f i r e hazard. By eliminating t h e spark, t h e chances of igniting any fuel or fuel vapors is drastically reduced.

Test No. 1 Basic Components at Rest

Connect t h e black lead of t h e low-volt- a g e voltmeter t o a good ground on t h e engine. Connect t h e red lead t o e i the r t h e No. 8 or No, 9 post at the engine terminal board. Turn t h e ignition key t o t h e ON position and observe t h e meter reading. If t h e reading is less than 12 volts t h e problem is ei ther a blown fuse in the fuse holder; a defect ive key switch, connection, or wires leading f rom the key switch; a poor connection at t h e positive terminal on t h e s t a r t e r solenoid; or, a ba t t e ry t h a t is not up t o full charge.

Test No. 2 Basic Components - Engine Cranking

With t h e vol tmeter still connected t o t h e No. 8 or No. 9 post at the ennine terminal board, per Tes t No. 1, crank t h e engine and observe t h e meter reading. If t h e reading is less than 9.5 volts, t h e ba t t e ry may not b e up t o a full charge, o r t h e s t a r t e r motor is drawing an excessive amount of voltage. Check o u t the ba t t e ry circuit , perform t h e test a second t ime, and then check o u t t h e s t a r t e r motor circuit , see Chapter 6. Dis- connect t h e t e s t ecquiprn ent.

Test No. 3 First Powerpack Output Check

Connect t h e black lea$ of a high-voltage vol tweter to a good ground on t h e ennine. Connect tPe red l ea6 to t h e No. 5 post on t h e eneine terminal board. Crank t h e en- ~ i n e an@ observe t h e b e t e r reading. If t h e r e a 8 i w is less than 258 volts, proceed t o Test Ph. 4. If t h e m e t e r reading is satisfac- to ry ) t h e snowerpack is delivering sufficient voltape to the coil an6 t h e unit is accept- a b l ~ ROP further service.

Test No. 4 Second Powerpack Output Check

Turn f he igni t im switch t o t h e ON posi- t i o ~ . V i t h tbe hipb-vsii t a e e voltmeter still

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5-66 IGNITION

connected t o t h e No. 5 post at t h e engine terminal hoard per Test No. 3, disconnect t h e sensor plug at t h e powerpack. Use two jumper wires and insert them into t h e plug half with t h e wires t o t h e powerpack. Mom- entari ly ground one of the wires and at t h e s a m e tirne observe t h e m e t e r reading. Each t i m e the wire is grounc"ed, t h e mete r should indicate at leas t 250 volts. If t h e m e t e r fa i ls t o register t h e required voltage, t h e proMem is in t h e sensor or in t h e coil. Proceed t o Test No. 5.

Test No. 5 Third Powerpack Output Check

Disconnect the voltmeter from the No. 5 post a t t h e engine terminal board. Discon- nect the blue wire from the No. 5 post. Turn the ignition switch t o the ON position. Connect the blue wire from e i the r the S-80 or M-80 tes ter t o the blue wire t h a t was just removed from the No. 5 post. Connect the other t e s t lead t o a good ground on t h e engine. With the jumper wires st i l l connected per Test No. 4, momentarily touch one of the jumper wires t o ground. Each t ime the wire is grounded, the tes ter light should flash indicating the powerpack is sending current t o the coil. If the light fai ls t o flash, the prob1e.m is in the coil o r in the sensor. Proceed t o Tes t No. 6. Disconnect the jumper leads Irom the sensor plug and connect the plug together. Connect the blue wire back to the No. 5 post on the terminal board.

t h e spark is weak or no spark is observed, t h e coil is defect ive and must be replaced.

Test No. 7 Sensor Circuit

Disconnect the plug in t h e lines leading to t h e powerpack. Set t h e ohmmeter t o t h e low-scale. Now, insert t h e two mete r test probes in to t h e plug on t h e sensor half (wires leading t o t h e sensor under the flywheel). The m e t e r should indicate 4.0 t o 6.0 ohms. If the reading is low, t h e sensor is defect ive and must be replaced. If t h e reading is satisfactory, proceed with t h e next Test.

TEST No. 8 Sensor Check for Grounding

Set t h e ohmmeter t o t h e high scale. Connect one meter lead t o a good ground on t h e engine. Connect t h e other m e t e r lead into t h e sensor plug at either terminal. Open and close t h e th ro t t l e t o shift t h e anti- reverse spring to-and-from ground. The m e t e r should indicate 108,000 ohms, then zero. With t h e meter still connected, work t h e wires back-ane-forth t o indicate groun4. If a ground is indicated, e i the r the wires or t h e sensor is grounded. Correct t h e c o n d i t i o ~ by replacing t h e wires and/or t h e sensor. Restore t h e systerr t o i t s original condition.

Test No. 9 Intermittent Miss

Set the bieh-voltage vol tmeter t o the 588 volt scale. Connect one m e t e r lead t o a good grcund on the engine. Connect the ~ t b e r p e t e r lead t o t h e No. 5 post a t t h e eneine t e r w i n d hoard. Connect one l ead of t h e low-amp a m v e t e r t o t h e p u r ~ l e wire of the powerpa.& and the other lead t o the No. 8 or No. 9 post of t h e t e r v i n a l board. S ta r t t h e engine and opera te i t at the rpm at which t h e miss occurs.


unit to the engine any tirne the engine is run to prevent damage to tk water pump and an over heating condition, Just f ive seconds w i t b u t wafer d l damage the water pump a d cause the engine to overheat.

Cbserve both meters. The needles shocrld hole4 stea8y. If e i ther m e t e r fluctu- a t e s (wavers) t h e powerpack is defective and must be replaced. If t h e a m m e t e r

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STARTER s \

TEST 112" GAP

0

TEST N O . 3 & 9

I

TEST NO. 1 & 2

i C D TEST METER

COIL

\ FUSE I""..".."..".."..".."..""""" \

KEY SWlTCh

........................................................... .............. ;r..................................................... .............. ; ::

......... * --.-• OHMMETER

,- -. 8'

8 TEST

- N O . 7 & 8 8

8 8 0 o 0 i 8

PULSE PACK I

LOAD 4 BUTTON

" A S80 OR M80 TESTER

Diagram of ignition system for 125 hp -- 1971 & 1972, and 100 hp --1972, to be used with the tests on Pages 5-65, 5-66, and 5-68.

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reading is greater than 1.8 amps, t h e powerpack is defective and must be replaced. A MEW rotor MUST be installed if t h e powerpack is replaced. The rotor is sold with t h e new style powerpack. DO NOT a t t e m p t t o use an old rotor with t h e new style powerpack.

Restore the system t o i ts original condition by removing all t e s t equipment and making t h e necessary connections.

To remove t h e flywheel and necessary par ts t o replace an ignition component, see Section 5-18.

To synchronize the ignition and fuel systems, s e e Section 5-31.

To t i m e the engine, see Section 5-34, or 5-36, depending on t h e engine being serviced.

5-17 COMPONENT REPLACEMENT

ROTOR REPLACEMENT

1- Remove t h e th ree a t taching screws, and then l i f t t h e c a p f r e e of t h e distributor.

2- Two rotors a r e installed on th is model engine. The top rotor conducts current t o t h e distributor cap. The lower metal rotor performs t h e function of t h e tr igger and works with the sensor. Grasp t h e t o p rotor and pull i t f r e e of t h e distributor shaft. If t h e lower rotor must be replaced, use two screwdrivers, one on t h e opposite side of t h e

rotor, and work t h e rotor upward and f r e e of t h e distributor shaft . Push t h e new lower rotor down t h e shaf t and into place. Push t h e top rotor down into place on t h e distributor shaft. Place t h e distributor c a p in to position and secure i t with t h e t h r e e a t taching screws.

SENSOR REPLACEMENT 100 hp - 1%7

3- Remove t h e t h r e e a t taching screws, and then l i f t t h e c a p f r e e of t h e distributor. Remove t h e holddown screw, disconnect t h e two blue wires at t h e sensor, then remove t h e sensor. Install the new sensor t o t h e base plate. R o t a t e t h e flywheel until t h e lower metal rotor is horizontal with t h e sensor, adjust t h e sensor t o 0.028" (7.1 mm). Connect the blue wires t o t h e sensor. In- stall and secure t h e distributor c a p with t h e t h r e e a t taching screws.

POWERPACK REPLACEMENT 100 hp - 1967

The distributor c a p must be removed and t h e sensor wires disconnected f rom t h e sensor. These wires a r e an integral par t of

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COMPONENT REPLACEMENT 5-69

t h e powerpack. Disconnect t h e positive (green wire) running t o t h e pulse transformer and t h e ground wire. Remove t h e t h r e e a t taching bolts, separa te t h e two quick- disconnects, and remove t h e powerpack. In- stall t h e new powerpack (be sure t o see t h e Special Words following th is step), secure i t in place with t h e th ree a t taching screws, and connect t h e wire t o t h e sensor. The green wire is positive and t h e other wire is t h e ground wire. Install t h e distributor cap.

SPEClAL WORDS If a new powerpack is being installed on

t h e 1967 and 1968 models, t h e voltage suppressor i s not used with t h e system. Re- move and discard t h e suppressor.

5-18 COMPONENT REPLACEMENT IGNITION PARTS UNDER FLYWHEEL: STATOR, DISTRIBUTOR CAP, DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR, SENSOR ROTOR, AND SENSOR 100 HP - 1%8 AND 1972 115 HP - 1969 AND 1970 125 HP - 1971 AND 1972

CRITICAL WORDS If an ignition component is replaced, t h e

synchronization MUST be checked, see Sec- tion 5-28, 5-29, 5-30, or 5-31, depending on t h e engine being serviced. The t iming MUST also be checked, see Section 5-34, 5- 35, or 5-36.

VACUUM SWITCH SERVICE 100 hp - 1968 Model

The vacuum switch, Illustration "A", should remain open when t h e ignition key is turned t o the ON- position. The switch should close a f t e r t h e key is turned t o t h e START position and t h e s t a r t e r motor begins t o crank t h e engine.

To test t h e vacuum switch, see Tes t No. 5, Testing t h e Vacuum Switch -- 100 hp -- 1968 on Page 5-58.

Disassemble the switch components. Wash t h e par ts in solvent and blow them dry with compressed air. Inspect the valve and seat for any condition t h a t might prevent the valve from seating properly. Inspect t h e contacts t o b e su re they a r e clean and not corroded. Inspect the diaphragm and t h e diaphragm contact . Check t h e diaphragm f i t over t h e switch housing. Any leakage in th is a r e a would prevent t h e contacts f rom closing. Assemble t h e check valve and test t h e action by alternately blowing and drawing a i r through t h e valve. The disc valve should close under pressure and open under suction. Replace any defect ive parts.

REMOVAL

Flywheel - All Models 1- Remove t h e flywheel. Use a holding

tool t o prevent t h e flywheel f rom rota t ing and remove t h e flywheel nut. Use t h e proper flywheel puller and "pull" t h e flywheel f r e e of t h e crankshaft. After t h e flywheel has been removed, notice how t h e wiring is routed and tucked t o prevent chaf- ing or other damage during engine operation. In particular notice how t h e sensor wire and s ta to r wires a r e routed and held down by clamps t o protect them from t h e flywheel during engine operation.

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5-70 IGNITION

work with ca re not t o damage t h e wires in any way. Remove t h e wire re ta iner screw. Check t h e condition of each wire carefully. Remove the sensor, remove t h e wire re-

Stator Removal tainers, disconnect t h e wires at t h e power- Observe how t h e s t a to r surrounds the pack, and then remove t h e sensor.

distributor cap. Remove t h e Phillips sc rews securing the s t a to r and then l i f t t h e s t a to r Distributor Base Removal f r e e of t h e distributor cap. 6- Remove t h e four retaining screws and

2- Lif t the distributor c a p f r e e of t h e t h e four retainer clips. Lif t t h e distributor power head. base f r e e and check t h e anti- reverse spring

3- Lif t the rotor f r e e of t h e crankshaft. underneath t h e base. Observe t h e keyway in t h e rotor. Turn t h e rotor over and remove t h e wavy washer. This washer keeps t h e rotor f rom vibrating during engine operation.

4- The sensor and t h e sensor rotor a r e now visible. Notice how t h e sensor rotor is also keyed t o t h e crankshaft. Use two screwdrivers under t h e rotor and work t h e rotor upward and f r e e of the crankshaft.

5- The sensor is held in place with t w o a t taching screws. The wires from t h e sensor a r e held in place on t h e distributor base by a retainer and a small screw between t h e two wires.- These sensor wires a r e a potential source of a ground. Therefore,

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COMPONENT REPLACEMENT 5-7 1

7- The function of the anti- reverse spring is t o shut t h e engine down immedi- a te ly if i t should s t a r t with t h e crankshaft turning in t h e wrong direction. This spring SHOULD be replaced any t i m e t h e distributor base has been removed.

8- The blue wires from t h e powerpack a r e routed onto an arm on t h e sensor base plate. The wires a r e then routed into a groove on t h e underside of t h e base pla te and held in place with a retainer and screw. Where t h e wires a r e held by t h e re ta iner is a common source of problems -- t h e wires may be grounded. The base pla te should b e removed and the wires checked for a grounded condition.


Check and d e a n t h e distributor c a p and rotor with a good greaseless cleaning solvent, Tempo Instant Spray A1 ternator-Gen- e r a t o r Cleaner No. 20-013, or equivalent. Denatured alcohol or trichlorethylene may also be used. Wipe t h e par ts dry with a clean cloth. Inspect the c a p and rotor t o be su re t h e y a r e f r e e of any cracks which could cause a voltage leak. If t h e distributor c a p is to b e replaced, t h e f ive high-tension leads (four t o t h e spark plugs and one t o t h e coil) must be unscrewed from t h e cap. Simply slide the small rubber caps back, and then ro ta te each wire COUNTERCLOCKWISE until t h e wire is free. The high-tension leads all have numbers and t h e distributor c a p has matching numbers. Install t h e cor rec t numbered lead in to t h e proper numbered hole. Disconnect the high-tension lead from t h e spark plug one-at-a-time as it is instal led in to the d i s t r i b u t o ~ c a p t o prevent any twisting condition as t h e lead is th readed into t h e cap. Connect the wire t o t h e spark

plug a f t e r t h e other end is secure in t h e distributor cap.

Check t h e electrodes for a burned condition.

Inspect the sensor for cracks across t h e sensor eye.

Check t h e plastic ring on t h e underneath side of t h e distributor base. This ring is t h e wearing surface for t h e distributor base as i t ro ta tes during engine operation. The ring is a replaceable i tem.

ASSEMBLING

I- Install a NEW anti- reverse spring. Af te r t h e spring is in place, lubr icate i t with Shell EP No. 2 Grease. Lubricate t h e nylon plastic ring with light-weight oil, and then install i t t o t h e underside of t h e distributor base with t h e FLAT side facing UPWARD.

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5-72 IGNITION

5- Install t h e upper rotor with t h e small

Distributor Base knob on t h e rotor indexed into t h e small 2- Lower t h e distributor base down into recess On the crankshaft-

t h e top bearing cap, paying careful ATTEN- 6- Slide the wavy washer down t h e

TION to be sure the $ti-reverse spring crankshaft and into place inside t h e distri- slides into t h e recess in t h e underside of t h e

butor

base plate. Work the nylon plastic ring 7- Install the distributor cap over the down into t h e recess of t h e bearine head. rotor and seat i t with t h e s m d l protrusion

" 3- Replace t h e four clips and screws

securing the base pla te t o t h e bearing head. R o t a t e t h e base t o be sure i t moves f ree ly without any evidence of binding. Install t h e sensor rotor with t h e cutout in t h e rotor indexed over the pin in the crankshaft. Work t h e rotor down onto t h e crankshaft shoulder.

Sensor 4- Install the sensor t o t h e base plate.

R o t a t e t h e crankshaft until f l a t side of t h e sensor rotor is 'horizontal with t h e sensor. Adjust t h e sensor t o 0.028" (7.1 mm).

indexed into t h e cutout of t h e bearing head.

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COMPONENT REPLACEMENT 5-73

This position prevents t h e c a p f rom rotating and maintains engine timing.

Stator & Slide the s t a to r over the distributor

cap. Coa t t h e at taching screws with Loc- t i t e , o r similar holding compound. Secure t h e c a p with t h e screws and t ighten t h e screws t o a torque value of 40 t o 60 inch- pounds (4.52 t o 6.78 N.m).

9- Check t h e flywheel magnets t o be su re they a r e absolutely f r e e of any foreign particles. Install t h e flywheel and flywheel nut. Tighten t h e nut t o t h e torque value given in the Specifications in t h e Appendix.

COIL LEAD

FLYWHEEL -- NUT

/' FLYWHEEL

DISTRIBUTOR CAP

VENT / HOUSING

SPARK PLUG LEAD ASSY

\ SCREW IN

CONNECTOR

\

ROTOR SPRING WASHER

n TRIGGER

BASE PLATE CLAMP

<*&- SENSOR REVERSE

CUT-OFF CONTACT

," & REVERSE

STOP

* ' 4 REVERSE \ CUT-OFF

GROUND , LEAD

SPRING \ DISTRIBUTOR u PRIMARY LEAD

BASE RETAINER (TO PULSE PACK)

Exploded drawing o f a sensor-type ignition system with principle parts identified.

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5-74 IGNITION

5- 19 TYPE IV IGNITION CAPACITOR DISCHARGE (CD) WITH BREAKER POINTS 55 HP - 3-CYLINDER - 1968 AND 1969 60 HP - 3-CYLINDER -1970 AND 1971 65 HP - V4 - 1%8 85 HP - V4 - 1968 TO 1972 100 HP - V4- 1971 DESCRIPTION

This system contains th ree major units: t h e ignition coil, two individual sets of points, and an amplifier. The amplifier i s a "throw away" type. If troubleshooting iso- l a t e s t h e problem t o t h e amplifier, i t is simply given "the deep six" (removed, discarded, and a new unit installed).

This section is divided in to t h r e e pa r t s covering t h e following horsepower engines and model years:

Fi rs t part: 55 hp, 3-cyl., 1968 & 1969 65 hp, V4, 1968 85 hp, V4, 1968

Second part: 85 hp, V4, 1969 t o 1972 100 hp, V4, 1971

Third part: 60 hp, 3-cyl., 1970 & 1971

Theory of Operation The amplifier contains a transistorized

converter. The converter s teps up t h e 12 volts f rom t h e ba t t e ry t o approximately 350 volts. This voltage is s tored in an energy capacitor. The breaker points function in t h e s a m e manner as a switch. Cur ren t passes or does not pass through. The points a r e ac tua ted through a cam on t h e crankshaft .

The points trigger t h e amplifier which releases t h e voltage stored in t h e capaci tor t o t h e coil. The coil again boosts t h e voltage, th is t ime t o approximately 20,000 volts, t o t h e spark plugs. For this reason, NEVER hold a high-tension lead with your hand while t h e engine is being cranked or running. Such action could result in severe electrical shock.

When t h e s torage capacitor has discharg- e d i t s energy at t h e spark plug gap, t h e electronic switch opens and t h e converter recharges t h e storage capacitor.

After t h e s torage capacitor has discharged i t s energy at t h e spark plug gap, t h e e lect ronic switch opens and t h e converter recharges t h e s torage capacitor.

Service on this t y p e of system is l imited t o detailed troubleshooting, and then replacing t h e faul ty component.

FIRST, THESE WORDS The wiring on these engines is connected

directly t o t h e individual units by means of connectors. The wiring for t h e other two CD systems in th is section is connected through an engine terminal board loca ted on t h e a f t side of t h e engine.

Normally, t h r e e conditions require troubleshooting: t h e engine fails t o s t a r t ; fa i ls t o run smoothly at all rpm (misses in ce r ta in ranges); or lacks power t o perform properly.

SAFETY WORDS This system generates approximately

20,000 volts which is f ed t o t h e spark plugs. Therefore, perform each s t e p of t h e troubleshooting procedures exact ly as presented as a precaution against personal injury.

SAFETY

The following sa fe ty precautions should a1 ways be observed.

DO NOT a t t e m p t t o remove any of the pott ing in t h e back of t h e powerpack. Re- pair of t h e powerpack is impossible.

DONOT a t t e m p t t o remove t h e high tension leads from t h e ignition coil.

DO NOT open or close any plug-in connectors, o r a t t e m p t t o connect or disconnect any electrical leads while t h e engine is being cranked or is running.

DO NOT set t h e t iming advanced any fur ther than as specified.

DO NOT hold a high tension lead with your hand while t h e engine is being cranked or is running. Remember , t h e system can develop approximately 20,000 volts which will result in a severe shock if t h e high tension lead is held. ALWAYS use a pair of approved insulated pliers t o hold t h e leads.

DO NOT a t t e m p t any tests except those l isted in th i s troubleshooting section.

DO NOT connect an e lec t r i c tachometer t o t h e system unless i t is a type which has been approved for such use.

DO NOT connect th is system t o any vol- t a g e source other than given in th is troubleshooting section.

GOOD WORDS Perform t h e following troubleshooting

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TROUBLESHOOTING CD 5-75

procedures in t h e sequence presented. DO NOT skip a s t e p or add checks of

your own. DO NOT ant ic ipate what is t o b e done

next, just keep in s t e p with t h e procedures and t h e work will move smoothly and orderly. Only in th is manner will t h e faul ty component be discovered in t h e shortest t i m e and without frustrat ion.

Replacement of a faulty component is covered in t h e sections following t h e Troub- leshooting procedures.

The following test equipment is a MUST when troubleshooting th is system. Sta t ing i t another way, "There is no way on th is green ea r th t o properly and accurate ly test t h e complete system or individual components without most of t h e special i t ems 1istecLf'

Voltmeter (0 t o 50 volts) Voltmeter ( to 500 volts) Ohmmeter DC Ammeter (0 t o 5 amps) Timing Light S-80 or M-80 neon t e s t light Neon spark tes ter

The following troubleshooting procedures cover t h e th ree most common causes r e ~ u i r - ing service: t h e engine fails t o s t a r t , t h e engine misses badly, o r t h e unit lacks proper power -- performs poorly.

Always a t t e m p t t o proceed with t h e troubleshooting in an or8erly Fanner . T h e shotgun approach will only result in wasted t ime, incorrect diagnosis, replacewept of unnecessary parts , and frustration.

Begin t h e ignition system troubleshsot- ing with t h e spark plugs and continue through t h e system until t h e source of trouble is located.

5-20 GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING ALL CD MODELS

Battery Condition The ba t t e ry is one of t h e p o s t iwsor tan t

i t ems in th is or m y C@ ignition system. The ba t t e ry should be ra ted at l eas t 70 amps with good clean terminals and t ight cab le connections. If a ba t t e ry s h o d 6 a c c i d e ~ t l y be connected t o a CD system backwards (wrong polarity), t h e diocks in t h e charninp: system will be &wa$;ed an6 t h e e l a p i ~ e will fail t o s tar t . The cranking system will function but t h e ignition systeh will he inoperative.

Before spending t i m e troubleshooting t h e ignition system, check t h e complete b a t t e r y circuit t o be sure all a reas a r e in satisfactory condition: e lect rolyte level; ba t t e ry charge; clean terminals; t ight connections at t h e terminals; and ba t t e ry leads f r e e of any f rayed areas , cracks, o r other damage.

SPECIAL WORDS If t h e engine continues t o run a f t e r t h e

ignition key switch has been turne? t o t h e OFF position, or if t h e engine is turned off and t h e boat appears t o sudden1 y move forward, t h e shi f t diodes r ray be at fault. See Chapter 8 for complete testin? an? service of t h e shi f t diodes.

Spark Plugs 1- Check t h e plug wires t o be su re they

a r e properly connected. G heck t h e en t i re length of t h e wires. If the wire is t o be renwved from t h e spark plug, ALWAYS ease a pulling and tvtisting motion as a prccau- t isn against d a r a p i n g t be connection.

2- At tempt t o remove t h e spark plugs bv hand. This i s a rough test t o deterwine if t h e plug is tightened properly. You should not be able t o remove t h e plue without using t h e proper socket s ize tool. Remove t h e spark plugs and keep them in order. Ex- amine each p l y an? evaluate i t s cc~c4ticsn as described i n S e c t i w 5-2.

If t h e spark plugs have Peen rewove6 a d t h e problem cannot be c!etern-he$, but t h e plug appears tta be in sa t is factcry cghnditi~n, electrodes, etc., then replace t h e plugs i n t h e spark plug openinps.

Battery installed in a well ventilated area, properly secured, with a heavy duty explosion proof switch.

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5-76 IGNITION

A conclusive spark plug test should always be performed with t h e spark plugs installed. A plug may indicate sa t is factory spark when i t is removed and tes ted, but under a compression condition may fail. An example would be t h e possibility of a person being able t o jump a given distance on t h e ground, but if a strong wind is blowing, his distance may be reduced by half. The s a m e is t rue with t h e spark plug. Uncder good compression in t h e cylinder, t h e spark may be too weak t o ignite t h e fuel properly.

3- To tes t t h e spark plug under compression, replace i t in t h e engine and tighten i t t o t h e proper torque value. Another reason t o t e s t for spark with t h e plugs installed, i s t o duplicate actual operating conditions regarding flywheel speed. If t h e flywheel i s ro ta ted with t h e pull cord, and with t h e plugs removed, t h e flywheel will r o t a t e much fas te r because of the no-compression condition in t h e cylinder. The flywheel ro ta t ing fas te r will give t h e FALSE indication of satisfactory spark.

A spark tes ter capable of test ing for spark while cranking and also while the engine is operating, can be purchased from any automotive or marine par ts outlet . The

modest cos t for such a tool i s well worth the investment.

Use a spark t e s t e r and check for s ~ a r k a t each cy1i~der . If a spark t es te r is not available, use a p i r of insu43,tec' pliers mcl hold t h e plug wire about 6/4'"(6.35 rrr) f ram the enqine.

A compression check is ex t re rndy i p - portant , because an engine w i t h low OP. uneven c o w p r e s s i ~ r ~ between cylinders CAN- NOT be tuned to opera te satisfactorily. Therefore, i t is e s s e n t M tha t any corpres- sion problew be corrected hefs re p r o c e e c h ~

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Checking Compression 4- Remove t h e spark plug wires. AL-

WAYS grasp t h e molded cap and pull i t loose with a twisting motion t o prevent damage t o t h e connection. Remove t h e spark plugs and keep them in ORDER by cylinder for evaluation later . Ground t h e spark plug leads t o t h e engine t o render t h e ignition sys tem inoperative while perf orming t h e compression check.

with t h e tune-up procedure. See Chapter 3. If the powerhead shows any indication of

overheating, such as discolored or scorched paint, especially in t h e a r e a of t h e top (No. 1) cylinder, inspect t h e cylinders visually thru t h e transfer ports for possible scoring. A more thorough inspection can be made if t h e heads a r e removed. I t is possible for a cylinder with sa t is factory compression t o be scored slightly. Also, check t h e wa te r pump. The overheating condition may be caused by a faulty water pump.

An overheating condition may also be caused by running t h e engine ou t of t h e water. For unknown reasons, many opera- tors have t h e misconception t h a t running an engine for a short period of t i m e without t h e lower unit submerged in water , can b e done without harm. FALSE!

Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine m y time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump and an overheating condition. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump.


sa fe ty measure and t o prolong coil life. Ey grounding t h e leads t h e current has a path t o follow without creating a spark. Any amount of fuel in or on t h e engine, even t h e fumes f rom under t h e cowling, c rea tes a dangerous f i r e hazard. By eliminating t h e spark, t h e chances of igniting any fuel or fuel vapors is drastically reduced.

Insert a compression gauge in to t h e No. 1, t o p spark plug opening. Crank t h e engine with t h e s t a r t e r , or pull on t h e s t a r t e r cord, through at l eas t 4 complete piston strokes with t h e th ro t t l e at t h e wide- open position, o r until the highest possible reading is observed on t h e gauge. Record t h e reading.

Repeat t h e test and record t h e compression for each cylinder. A variation between cylinders is far more important than the actual readings. A variation of more than 5 psi between cylinders indicates t h e lower compression cylinder may be defective. The problem may be worn, broken, o r sticking piston rings, scored pistons, or worn cylinders. These problems may only be determined a f t e r t h e head has been removed. Removing t h e head on an outboard engine is not t h a t big a deal and may save many hours of frustrat ion and the cost of purchasing unnecessary par ts t o correct a faul ty condition.

In most cases, under normal operating conditions of a V4 engine, t h e No. 4 cylinder usually causes problems before the other three. You ask, "Why is th is so?" No man, including f a c t o r y engineers, a r e able t o give a logical and scientif ic answer. So be it!


CRITICAL WORDS The troubleshooting procedures present-

e d thus f a r in th is s e c t i o n apply t o al l engines and model years l i s ted in t h e 5-19 and 5-20 headings.

The following procedures apply only t o t h e horsepower and model year indicated at t h e beginning of each group of tests.

THEREFORE, perform only those tests given for t h e part icular engine being serviced. All o ther tests and procedures may b e ignored (skipped, forget they a r e even given).

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5-78 IGNITION

5-21 TROUBLESHOOTING 55 hp - 1 968 and 1 969 Models 65 hp and 85 hp - 1968 Models

CRITICAL WORDS BEFORE s tar t ing t h e following trouble-

s hooting procedures fo r th is ignition sys tem, TAKE TIME t o read and understand t h e system description at t h e beginning of Sec- tion 5-19 and PERFORM t h e General Trou- bleshooting procedures t h a t apply t o all models, Section 5-20.

The following test numbers a r e matched t o test numbers on t h e accompanying wire diagram as an assist in performing t h e work.

55 hp - 1968 and 1969 A vacuum switch, reference illustration

"An,. is installed t o allow current flow t o continue t o t h e lower unit a f t e r t h e ignition switch has been turned t o t h e OFF position. This arrangement prevents t h e shi f t diodes in t h e lower unit f rom immediately moving t h e shift mechanism into forward gear. Therefore, if t h e boat suddenly seems t o move forward, a f t e r t h e key switch is turned t o t h e OFF position, t h e shi f t diodes may b e at fault. For complete troubleshooting and service procedures of t h e shift diodes, see Chapter 8.

SAFETY WORD BEFORE making any test on a CD igni-

tion system t h e spark plugs should be removed and t h e high-tension leads grounded.

This procedure will prevent t h e engine f rom firing accidently during a t e s t and grounding t h e spark plug leads will provide a path f o r t h e high-vol t age generated in t h e system. This path will prevent any fuel or fuel vapors around t h e powerhead from igniting f rom a spark.

An assistant should be available for most t e s t s involving turning t h e key switch. In c a s e of a short , t h e assistant can quickly turn t h e key off before an expensive pa r t is damaged.

Test No. 1 Ignition Switch Voltage Output

Connect one lead f rom t h e low-voltage voltmeter t o a good ground on t h e engine. Probe with t h e other lead in to t h e red wire of t h e harness t o t h e key switch. Turn t h e ignition switch t o t h e ON position. T h e mete r should indicate 12 volts. If me te r fails t o indicate 12 volts, t h e ba t t e ry is not up t o a full charge or t h e key switch is defective. If t h e m e t e r indicates 12 volts, proceed t o Test No. 2.

Test No. 2 Ignition Switch Voltage Drop

With t h e voltmeter probe still inserted, as in Test No. I , c rank t h e engine and observe t h e voltmeter. The voltage should have dropped t o approximately 9.5 volts. If t h e voltage dropped t o less than 9.5 volts, t h e ba t t e ry circuit may need a t tent ion, or t h e s t a r t e r may be drawing too many volts. See Chapter 6.

Test No. 3 Battery Voltage Output

Remove t h e t e s t probe inserted in Test No. 1 and Tes t No. 2. Use t h e vol t m e t e r and check t h e ba t t e ry voltage and t h e voltage at t h e key switch. If no voltage is indicated at t h e key switch, use t h e volt- mete r and check t h e voltage at t h e s t a r t e r solenoid -- meter should indicate 12 volts.

Test No. 4 Amplifier Output to the Coil

Set t h e high-voltage vol tmeter t o t h e 500 volt scale. Insert one lead of the vol tmeter in to t h e lead going t o t h e coil f rom the amplifier. Connect the other m e t e r lead t o a good ground on t h e engine. Crank t h e engine and observe t h e mete r reading. The rneter should indicate a t l eas t 250 volts. If t h e mete r fa i ls t o indicate any voltage at th is point, proceed with t h e nex t Test.

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G D TEST METER

TEST NO. 1 0 & 4

LOAD B W O N STARTER

SOLENOID - -

"A" S80 OR M80 TESTER s - 1 3 4 , OR

s-21 &' \, -

112" GAP

TEST z7 TEST NO. 9

,A TEST NO. 11 H

TEST N O 8 8 6

KEY SWITCI-

& BASE , ' IGN '-,\ TEST ,I NO. 3

/ INTERMITTENTLY GROUND ppACl

AMPLIFIER CONNECTOR j LW TERMINAL i /

C-D TEST METEf I,

-

TEST NO. 1 & 2

/

AMPLIFIER

Schematic dicegram for the tests on Pages 78, 80, and 81.

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5-80 IGNITION

Test No. 5 Second Amplifier Output Check

Disconnect t h e connec to r t o t h e coi l and c o n n e c t o n e lead of t h e S-80, M-80 t e s t e r t o t h e l ead t o t h e ampl i f ie r and t h e o t h e r l ead t o a good ground on t h e powerhead. Depress load bu t ton "A" on t h e t e s t e r , and at t h e s a m e t ime , c r a n k t h e engine. T h e l ight should flash. If t h e l ight f lashes , t h e arnpli- f i e r is good and t h e coi l should b e checked, per T e s t No. 7.

Test No. 6 Third Amplifier Output Check

Vfith t h e t e s t e r still connec ted t o t h e coil a s in T e s t No. 5 , c'isconnect t b e wi re c o o r e c t o r betvreen t h e ampl i f ie r and t h e w i ~ t set. ?urn t h e ipnition swi t ch to t h e ON position. PY 'o~en ta r i l y wake c o n t a c t wi tb t h e wire f rom t h e amplif ier t o a goo$ proamcl on t h e engine. Each t i m e t h e wi re i s gro~rnc"ed, t h e t e s t e r l ight should flash. If t h e l ight fa i l s t o f lash, t h e ampl i f ie r i s c 'efect ive a ~ c ' r u s t be replacecl. R e s t o r e t h e sys ter r t o i t s o r i ~ i n d coneit ion Fv re- wovinp dl test equipment 3rd m a k i w t h e necessa-v csa7nections.

i t y l ight to t h e posi t ive t e rmina l of t h e s t a r t e r solenoid and t h e o the r l e a d i n t o t h e l e a d going t o t h e point set. Advance t h e d is t r ibutor t o t h e full advance position. Manually r o t a t e t h e f lywheel CLOCKWISE. T h e l ight should glow until e a c h set of points opens. This will occu r as t h e flywheel t iming m a r k passes t h e poin ter on t h e l i f t i ng ring. If e i t he r set of points f a i l s t o b reak at t h e proper t i m e , t h e point set i s sho r t ed o r t h e y a r e o u t of ad jus tment . Ad- just t h e point sets as out l ined in Sec t ion 5- 24. Pe r fo rm t h e test again. If t h e points still fai l t h e test, t h e y a r e de fec t ive and mus t b e replaced.

Test No. 9 Point Set Check

GOOD WORDS 55 hp and 60 hp Engines Only

The two point sets a r e connec te6 in a delayed parallel c i rcu i t . Both sets a f f e c t e a c b cylinder. R e f e r t o t h e i l lus t ra t ion ident i f ied as T e s t 9, on P a g e 5-81 t o perform t h e f s l l o v ~ i ~ e work an? tests.

Another t i p i n e m a r k r u s t h e acdeec? to t h e flywheel i n orcler t o check each point set. k k a s u r e exac t ly 1-3/8" (34.9 mm) COUNTERCLOCKWISE s r o u ~ c l t h e f lywheel p e r i r e t e r f r o m t h e exist ing p a r k .

AM Models Pisconnec t t h e wi re to t h e amplif ier

f row t h e point set, an? connect o n e l ead of a c e ~ t i s ~ u i t y l ight t o t h e wi re t o t h e point set. C'wnect t h e e t h e r test l e a d to t h e posi t ive k e r r r i ~ ? l of t h e s t a r t e r solenoid.

Y'itP t h e k e y i~ t h e OFF position and t h e c7istribartor ful ly advarcecl, manually r o t a t e t be dlyvrbeel CLOCKWISE until t h e ex is t ing r x k CP t h e f l y b e e l is al igned wi th t h e bcss a- t b e r i ~ p piex e u a d . Tbe l i ah t sbodc' p c out in8icat ing o p e set of points bas or ened. C o ~ ~ ~ a l e tc r o t a t e t h e f lvwheel CLOCKWISE ( the Biebt sbould c o r r e on a- pird urthl tPe w v l a&-+$ p a r k t h e f l y w k e l is d ipcec ' w i th t h e boss on t h e fIw~Pee1 r ipe pea- guard. When t h e m a r k is a l i ~ ~ e c ' ~ 4 t h t h e boss, t h e l ight should g o o u t e p ~ j r , i ~ 6 i c i i t i ~ p tkv second set of poin ts bas coere?. If t h e t i w i r y i s not a c c u r a t e , as c'escsibc? ir- t h e s e t w o checks , t h e f lyv7heel ~ \ u s t b e r e ~ o v e c ? anc" t h e ~ n i n t s ad jus ted as c ~ l t l i n e c ~ i i ~ Section 5-34.

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TROUBLESHOOTING CD 5-8 1


Set the voltmeter t o t h e 500 volt scale. Connect one m e t e r lead t o a good ground on t h e engine. Insert a probe into t h e connector lead t o t h e blue wire going in to t h e coil. S ta r t t h e engine and opera te i t at the rprn a t which t h e miss occurs.

CAUTION The engine MUST be mounted in a body

of water with a test wheel t o make t h e following check. NEVER a t t e m p t t o run an engine at above idle speed with a flush a t t achment connected or in a confined test tank. Such practice, with a no-load condition on the propeller, would cause t h e engine t o RUN-AWAY causing serious damage o r destruction of t h e unit. The t es t cannot be performed with t h e boat moving through t h e water.


unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump and an overheating condition. Just f ive seconds without water will damage the water pump and cause the engine to overheat.

With the engine operating at t h e rpm at which t h e miss occurs, observe t h e voltmeter . The meter should indicate at l eas t 250 volts and hold steady. If t h e needle f1uctua;es (wavers), o r fai ls t o register 250 volts, check t h e complete ba t t e ry circuit. If t h e ba t t e ry is up t o full charge and t h e

circuit , including all connections and wiring a r e in good condition, test t h e coil output a s outlined earl ier in th is section. If t h e voltage check was sa t is factory and t h e engine still misses within a cer ta in rprn range, perform the next test. Disconnect t h e volt- m e t e r and check t o be sure all connections a r e in thei r original positions.

Test No. 11 Amplifier Check

Connect t h e 0 t o 5 a m p ammeter in series between t h e key and t h e amplifier. S ta r t and opera te t h e engine at idle speed, 500 rprn. The a m m e t e r should indicate less than 1.0 amps. Increase rpm speed t o t h e range where t h e miss occurs. The a m m e t e r should hold steady. If the needle wavers, check t h e ba t t e ry wire t o t h e amplifier. If all wires and connections a r e in good condition, replace t h e amplifier.

Restore t h e system t o i ts original condition by removing all t e s t equipment and making t h e necessary connections.

To remove t h e flywheel and necessary par ts t o replace an ignition component, s e e Section 5-24.

To synchronize the ignition and fuel systems, see Section 5-27 or 5-28, depending on t h e unit being serviced.

To t i m e the engine, see Section 5-33 or 5-34.

5-22 TROUBLESHOOTING 85 hp - 1969 th ru 1972 100 h p - 11971


s hooting procedures f o r th is ignition system, TAKE TIME t o read and understand t h e system description at t h e beginning of Sec- tion 5-19 and PERFORM the General Trou- bleshooting procedures t h a t apply t o all models, Section 5-20.



tion system t h e spark plugs should be removed and t h e high-tension leads grounded. This procedure will prevent t h e engine f rom firing accidently during a test, and ground-

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5-82 IGNITION

ing t h e spark plug leads will provic'e a pa th for the high-vd t age generated in t h e system. This path will prevent a spark f rom igniting any fuel or fuel vapors in t h e a r e a of t h e powerhead.

Test No. 1 Ignition Switch Check

Connect one lead of the low-voltage voltmeter t o a good groun4 on t h e engine. Turn t h e ignition switch t o t h e ON position, and t h e n momentarily make con tac t with t h e other meter lead t o the No. 8 o r No. 9 post at t h e engine terminal hoard. The mete r should indicate 12 volts. If voltage is present, t h e current between t h e key switch and t h e terminal board is satisfactory. If voltage is not present, t h e ba t t e ry is low; t h e key switch is defective; or t h e wiring to-and-from t h e terminal board requires attention.

Test No. 2 Battery Circuit Checks

If voltage was not present in Test No. 1, test t h e v d t a g e at t h e ignition switch, then between t h e switch and t h e s t a r t e r solenoid, and finally between t h e s t a r t e r solenoid and t h e battery.

Test No. 3 Voltage Draw Test

With one lead of t h e voltmeter still connected t o a good ground on t h e engine, connect the other lead t o ei ther t h e No. 8 o r No. 9 post of t h e terminal board. Now, crank t h e engine and observe t h e voltmeter. The m e t e r should indicate at l eas t 9.5 volts. If the voltage- reading is low, e i ther the ba t t e ry circuit requires service, or t h e s tar- t e r is drawing excessive voltage. To check t h e s t a r t e r circuit , see Chapter 6 .

Test No. 4 Amplifier Output

Connect the high scale vol tmeter t o ground and t o t h e No. 5 post at t h e terminal board. Set t h e meter t o t h e 50Q vol t scale. Crank t h e engine and observe t h e m e t e r reading. The meter should indicate at l eas t 250 volts. If t h e required amount of vol tage is not present, proceed with t h e Test No. 5.

Test No. 5 First Amplifier Check

If the engine will not run and t h e r e was no indication of voltage while t h e engine

was being cranked during T e s t No. 4, disconnect the coil primary wire ( the blue wire) from the No. 5 post a t t h e terminal board. Connect one lead of the 5-80, M-80 t e s t light t o the blue wire leading t o t h e amplifier and the o ther lead t o a good ground on t h e powerhead. Again crank the engine. If the light flashes, the coil is defect ive and must be replaced.

Test No. 6 Second Amplifier Check

If the light fai led t o flash during Test No. 5, disconnect t h e quick-disconnect between t h e amplifier and t h e point set. Turn t h e ignition switch t o t h e ON position. With t h e t e s te r still connected t o t h e blue wire t o t h e amplifier and ground, momentari ly make c o n t a c t t o ground with t h e wire from t h e amplifier. Each t i m e t h e wire makes contact with ground, the t e s te r light should flash on. If t h e light flashes during th is t e s t , check t h e point s e t t o be sure they a r e properly adjusted. Adjust t h e points as required according t o the procedures outlined in Section 5-19. If t h e light fai ls t o flash, the amplifier is defect ive and must be replaced. Restore t h e system t o i t s original condition by removing all t e s t equipment and making t h e necessary connections.


Disconnect the coil high-tension lead f rom t h e distributor cap. The lead is threaded into t h e ca and must be rota ted COUNTERCLOCKWI~E until i t is free. As t h e lead Is turned, count t h e revolutions and make a note as an aid during installation. The lead must be twisted COUNTER- CLOCKWISE t h e correct number of tu rns before i t is threaded into t h e distributor c a p to ensure i t is a t res t and not twisted a f t e r installation. Use a pair of insulated pliers and hold t h e lead about 1 /2" ( 12.7 mm) f rom a good engine ground. Crank t h e engine. If t h e spark is weak or no spark is observed, t h e coil is defect ive a d must be replaced. If t h e spark is strong, th read t h e coil wire back in to t h e distributor cap.

Test No. 8 Point Set Condition

Disconnect t h e wire from the amplifier t o t h e points at t h e quick-disconnect. Con- nec t one lead of a continuity l ight t o the lead t o t h e point set. Connect t h e o ther

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580 OR M80 TESTER

GD TEST METER GD TEST METER

TEST NO. 1 & 3

"A" I

AMMETER

- -

TEST SWITCH NO. 2

/

\ BATTERY

& BASE

COIL

yL-

TEST

NO. 7

TEST NO. 2

j INTERMITTENTLY GROUND AMPLIFIER CONNECTOR

112" GAP TERMINAL

\ "' #2 CYL -

AMPLIFIER

/ DISTRIBUTOR

CAP u

Schematic diagram for the tests on P ~ g e s 82 and 84.

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5-84 IGNITION

continuity l ight lead t o t h e positive terminal of t h e s t a r t e r solenoid. With t h e ignition key in the OFF position, advance t h e distributor t o full advance. Remove t h e spark plugs a s an aid t o rota t ing t h e flywheel by hand. Manually r o t a t e t h e flywheel CLOCKWISE. Observe t h e timing mark on t h e flywheel guard and t h e two t iming marks on the flywheel. As t h e flywheel is ro ta ted and each mark passes t h e mark on t h e flywheel guard, t h e l ight should go ou t indicating t h e points a r e open. If t h e l ight fa i ls t o g o out, t h e flywheel must be removed, and t h e point set adjustment carefully checked. Procedures t o adjust t h e point se t s a re outlined in Section 5-24.


Restore t h e system t o i t s original condition by removing all t e s t equipment and making t h e necessary connections. Connect t h e black lead of a high-voltage vol tmeter t o a good ground on t h e engine. Se t t h e mete r t o t h e 500 volt scale. Connect t h e other lead t o the blue lead at the No. 5 post at t h e terminal board. Connect a low-amp ammeter (0 t o 5 amps) in ser ies between t h e amplifier and t h e No. 8 or No. 9 post of t h e terminal board.

CAUTION The engine MUST b e mounted in a body

of water with a test wheel t o make t h e following check. NEVER a t t e m p t t o run an engine a t above idle speed with a flush a t t achment connected or in a confined test tank. Such practice, with a no-load condition on t h e propeller, would cause t h e engine t o RUNAWAY causing serious damage or destruction of t h e unit. The test cannot be performed with t h e boat moving through t h e water.

Water must circulate through the lower unit to t h e engine any time t h e engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump and an overheating condition. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump andl cause the engine to overheat.

Sta r t t h e engine and allow i t t o warm t o operating t empera tu re at 500 rprn. Increase t h e th ro t t l e until t h e engine is operating at t h e rpm at which t h e miss occurs and ob- se rve t h e voltmeter and t h e ammeter . The voltmeter should indicate at l eas t 250 volts. If e i ther needle f luctuates (wavers), check t h e complete ba t t e ry circuit. If t h e ba t t e ry

is up t o full charge and t h e circuit , including all connections and wiring, a r e in good condition, t h e amplifier is defect ive and must b e replaced.

Restore t h e system t o i t s original condition by removing all t e s t equipment and making the necessary connections.

To remove t h e flywheel and necessary par t s t o replace an ignition component, see Section 5-24.

To synchronize t h e ignition and fuel systems, s e e Section 5-29, 5-30, or 5-31, depending on t h e unit being serviced.


5-23 TROUBLESHOOTING 60 HP - 1970 AND 197 1


shooting procedures f o r th is ignition system, TAKE TIME t o read and understand t h e system description at t h e beginning of Sec- tion 5-1 9 and PERFORM the General Trou- bleshooting procedures t h a t apply t o all models, Section 5-20.



tion system, t h e spark plugs should b e removed and t h e high-tension leads grounded. This procedure will prevent t h e engine f rom firing accidently during a test. Grounding t h e spark plug leads will provide a path f o r t h e high-voltage generated in t h e system. This path will prevent a spark f rom igniting any fuel or fuel vapors in t h e a r e a of the powerhead.

Test No. 1 Ignition Switch and Battery Circuit

Connect one- lead of t h e 0 t o 50 volt- mete r t o a good ground on t h e engine. Turn t h e ignition switch t o t h e ON position, and then momentari ly make con tac t with t h e other m e t e r lead t o t h e No. 8 or No. 9 post at t h e engine terminal board on t h e a f t side of t h e engine. The m e t e r should indicate 12 volts. If voltage is not present, or t h e voltage is low, t h e ba t t e ry is low; t h e key switch is defective; or t h e wiring to-and- f rom t h e terminal board requires at tention.

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Test No. 2 Voltage Imput to Amplifier System a t Rest

C o n n e c t t h e black l e a d of a low-vol t a g e (0 t o 50) t o a good ground on t h e engine. C o n n e c t t h e o the r vo l tme te r l e a d t o t h e No. 6 pos t of t h e te rminal board. Turn t h e ignition key t o t h e ON position. The volt- m e t e r should ind ica t e 1 2 volts. If t h e m e t e r f a i l s t o reg is te r 12 volts , t h e f u s e connec ted in s e r i e s wi th t h e s t a r t e r solenoid i s blown; t h e connect ion at t h e s t a r t e r solenoid is no t c lean and t ight ; o r t h e b a t t e r y c i rcu i t requires a t ten t ion .

Test No. 3 Voltage Imput to Amplifier Engine Being Cranked

With t h e test equipment s t i l l connec ted as f o r T e s t No. 2, c r ank t h e engine wi th t h e s t a r t e r r o t o r . The vo l t r r e t e r should indicate at l e a s t 9.5 volts. If t h e m e t e r reading i s less than 9.5 volts , t h e b a t t e r y c i r cu i t m a y need a t t en t ion or , t h e s t a r t e r c i r cu i t i s drawing excess ive voltage. T o check t h e s t a r t e r c i rcu i t , see C h a p t e r 6.

Test No. 4 First Amplifier Output Check

Connec t t h e b lack l ead of a hipb-voltage v o l t w e t e r t o a good ground on t h e engine. S e t t h e p e t e r t o t h e 508 volt scale. Con- n e c t t h e o t h e r v o l t w e t e r l ead t o t h e No, 9 post of t h e terminall boarc". Crank t h e eng ine and t k e vhaltrreter shade iirackete a t l e a s t 250 vsl ts. If t h e r s e t e r r ea , c ' i~a is rct sa t i s f ac to ry , o r t h e w e t e r f a i l s t~ l ~ r ' j ~ ; d f e any voltage, proceec' tc t h e n e x t test.

Test No. 5 Second Amplifier 0utgmt Check

L e a v e t h e test equipmert c o r w c t e c ~ as f o r T e s t No.4. P i sconnec t t b e ampl i f ie r lead g o b g t o t h e point set. Y i t h t bg

key st i l l i n t h e ON position, r o w e r - taridy m a k e c o n t a c t with t h e ampillfjer )Ieae7 t o engine ground. Each t i r e t k ;rlwrdif ier l ead makes c o n t a c t with erpine ergau~?, t ee m e t e r sbcrdd i n c k a t e at l e a s t 2561 volts. HP t h e vo l t age r e a d i ~ p is rsst s a t i s f x t o r y , per- fo rm t h e nex t test. C o n w c t t h e arcnlifier l e a d goinp t o t h e p i ~ t set.

Test No. 6 Third Amplifier Output C k c k

Eiscsnnec t t h e high-vol t ? p e vol trr e ter . Disconnect t h e blue lead fron- t h e fslo. 9 pos t 2t t h e t e r ~ i n a l Psard. C c w e c t w e

l ead of a n S-80, a n M-80 t e s t e r , t o t h e b lue l ead going t o t h e amplif ier . C o n n e c t t h e o t h e r l ead t o a good ground on t h e powerhead. Turn t h e ignit ion key t o t h e ON position. Momentari ly m a k e c o n t a c t wi th t h e ampl i f ie r point l ead t o engine ground. Each t i rne c o n t a c t i s m a d e t o ground, t h e test l ight should f lash on. If t h e l ight does f lash, t h e ampl i f ie r i s s a t i s f ac to ry fo r fu r th- e r s e rv i ce and t h e coi l i s de fec t ive . If t h e l ight did NOT f lash, t h e ampl i f ie r i s de fec- tive. If t h e coi l i s suspected , proceed t o t h e n e x t t e s t .


Disconnect a l l test equ ipmen t connec ted thus f a r , and then c o n n e c t a l l wiring back t o the i r original positions. Disconnect t h e coi l high-tension l ead f rom t h e d is t r ibutor cap. T h e lead i s t h readed in to t h e c a p and m u s t b e r o t a t e d COUNTERCLOCKWISE unti l i t is f r ee . As t h e l ead i s turned , c o u n t t h e revolut ions and m a k e a n o t e as a n a id during instal lat ion. T h e l ead mus t be twis ted COUNTERCLOCK WISE t h e c o r r e c t number of t u rns b e f o r e i t i s t h readed in to t h e dis- t r ibu to r c a p to ensu re i t i s a t r e s t and n o t twis ted a f t e r instal lat ion. Use a pair of insulated pl iers and hold the lead a b o u t 1/2" (12.7 mm) f ro ,n a good engine ground, Crank t h e engine. If t h e spark i s weak o r no spark is observed, t h e coi l i s de fec t ive and mus t be replaced . If t h e spark appea r s t o be good, r ep lace t h e coil w i r e i n to t h e distribu- t o r cap.

Test No. 8 Point Set Conditim

Insert one l ead of a test l ipht i n to t h e connector wire t o t h e point set narder t h e f lywheel . T o n n e c t t h e o t h e r l e ~ d of t h e test l ight t o t h e pos i t ive t e r v i n a l of t h e s t a r t e r solenoid. Turn t h e ipnition swi tch t o t h e OFF pasition. i P o v e t h e c'istributor t o t h e full advance position. P8anually r o t a t e t h e f lywheel CLOCKWISE until t h e t iming m a r k on the f lywheel is s l ipned with t h e t iming m a r k on t h e f l y v h e e l puarc'. T h e test l ipht should g o o u t indicat ing t h e poirpt set is open. Cont inue t o r o t a t e t h e f lywheel CLOCKWISE 1-318" (34.9 wm), and t h e l ight c o m e s on. If t h e l ight fa i led t o c o r e s n when t h e f l y v h e e l passed t h e measu remen t given, t h e points m u s t h e replaced or ar'jalist- ed , as outl ined in Sec t ion 5-34.

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5-86 IGNITION

BATTERY

C-D TEST METER C-D TEST METER ;-mi p(

TERMINAL BLOCK

! ii

I I= DC

1 AMMETER

TEST NO. 9

! TEST b / NO. 6 -.q

BUTTON "A" 580 OR M80

TESTER

TEST

....................... AMPLIFIER

TEST

TERMITENTLY

POWERHEAD

BREAKER POINTS

! KEY I..;.:""" \ IGN ,! 2

DISTRIBUTOR TEST NO. 7 ,/

Schematic diagram for the tests on Pages 84, 85, and 87.

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CD PARTS REPLACEMENT 5-87


Connect the black lead of a high-volt vol tmeter t o a good engine ground. Connect t h e other voltmeter lead t o t h e No. 9 post of t h e terminal board. Se t t h e vol tmeter t o t h e 500 volt scale. Connect a d c ammete r (0 t o 5 a m p range) in ser ies with t h e ampli- f ier purple wire and t h e No. 6 post. S ta r t t h e engine and increase t h e rpm until t h e miss occurs. CAUTION

The engine MUST be mounted in a body of wa te r with a tes t wheel t o make t h e following check. NEVER a t t e m p t t o run an engine at above idle speed with a flush a t t achment connected o r in a confined test tank. Such pract ice , with a no-load condition on the propeller, would cause t h e engine t o RUN-AWAY causing serious damage o r destruction of the unit. The test cannot be performed with t h e boat moving through t h e water.

Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump and an overheating condition. Just f ive seconds without water will damage the water pump and cause the engine to over heat,

If ei ther needle f luctuates (wavers), t h e amplifier could be breaking down and must b e replaced.

Restore t h e system t o i t s original condition by removing all test equipment and making t h e necessary connections.

To remove t h e flywheel and necessary par ts in order t o replace an ignition component, see Section 5-24 at t h e end of th i s chapter.

To synchronize t h e ignition and fuel systems, see Section 5-27.

T o t i m e t h e engine, see Section 5-32.

5-24 CD IGNITION SYSTEM PARTS REPLACEMENT AND ADJUSTMENT 55 HP 3-CYLINDER - 1968 AND 1969 60 HP 3-CYLINDER - 1970 AND 1971 65 HP V4 - 1968 85 HP V4 - 1%8 TO 1972 100 HP V4 - 1971

replaced, only t h e procedures necessary f o r t h a t particular part need be performed. Therefore, proceed directly t o t h e paragraph heading for the part t o be removed and installed.

REMOVAL

Flywheel - All Models 1- Mold t h e flywheel with a holding fix-

t u r e and remove t h e flywheel nut f rom t h e crankshaft. Obtain an appropriate flywheel remover and "pull" t h e flywheel f rom t h e crankshaft. Notice how t h e s t a to r f i t s over t h e top of t h e distributor cap.

FIRST, THESE WORDS The following procedures outl ine t h e

necessary s teps required t o replace or adjust a component in a wide range of C D ignition systems. If t h e troubles hooting procedures indicate a part is defect ive and must b e

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5-88 IGNITION

Other Components 2- Separate t h e disconnect for t h e sta-

tor leads. Remove t h e th ree s t a to r a t t ach- ing screws, and then l i f t t h e s t a to r f r e e of t h e distributor cap.

3- Li f t the distributor clear of t h e engine.

4- After t h e distributor has been removed, notice t h e wavy washer inside t h e rotor. Remove t h e rotor and t h e wavy washer from t h e distributor.

5- The two sets of points a r e now exposed. Notice how these points a r e different f rom t h e normal set of outboard motor points. The adjusting screw head is knurled. The grooves forming t h e knurls on t h e screw head- help t o hold t h e proper adjustment. When a point adjustment is made, t h e screw will make a definite "clicking" sound as t h e grooves move past a slight protrusion in t h e breaker point base plate.

GOOD WORDS The breaker point base does not normally

have t o be removed. However, t h e breaker point leads a r e routed under t h e base and secured in place with a retainer. This wire has been known t o break and "ground" t h e point set. If such a condition is suspected, t h e distributor base must be removed and t h e wire replaced or repaired, r e fe rence illustration "A".

6- To remove t h e distributor base plate, f i rs t , remove t h e four retaining clips located on t h e pla te perimeter.

7- Lif t t h e pla te clear of t h e distributor. Turn t h e pla te over and inspect t h e wires.

OBSERVE Notice t h e wire-type spring on t o p of t h e

breaker base pla te t h a t f i t s around t h e crankshaft. This spring performs t h e function of grounding: t h e ignition system if t h e engine should happen t o backfire and s t a r t operating in a COUNTERCLOCKWISE direc-

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8- During service of t h e point se t , t h e anti- reverse spring should be replaced. Aft- e r t h e new spring is installed, use a very small ainount of OMC Type D lubricant on t h e crankshaft where t h e spring rides t o reduce frict ion and prolong spring life. Take note how the point set leads a r e routed t o a terminal block, and then under t h e base plate. Point Set Replacement

Seldom does t h e point set require replacement. The explanation is simple: t h e set is not subjected t o high voltage charges, as in t h e conventional system. The set merely acts similar t o a l ight switch t o open and close t h e circuit, in this case t o ground t h e circuit and prevent current flow.

9- Remove t h e two a t taching screws through t h e set. Disconnect t h e point set lead f rom t h e terminal block. Remove t h e point set.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING -

Inspect all par ts f o r wear or damage. Tes t t h e coil, rotor, end caps, high-tension leads, and breaker assemblies.

Service of the point set is l imi ted t o cleaning them with a calling card pulled between the points and using acetone, o r similar mater ia l , t o remove any small a- mount of corrosion t h a t may have s ta r t ed t o form.

Check t h e coil closely t o determine if t h e r e has been any leakage t o t h e powerhead. If in doubt as t o t h e integri ty of t h e coil, have it checked at a shop or replace i t with a new coil.

Make a resistance test on t h e high-tension wires. The high-tension leads may b e removed. DO NOT a t t e m p t t o pull t h e high-tension leads from t h e distributor cap. These wires a r e screwed into t h e cap. Fi rs t pull t h e rubber c a p back up onto t h e high- tension lead, and then unscrew t h e wire in a COUNTERCLOCKWISE direction until t h e wire is free.

Leakage Paths The high-vol t a p e surge of t h e secondary

circuit may establish a path t o ground by a dif ferent route than across t h e spark plug gap. Once such a path is established, t h e spark will most likely continue t o jump across t h e ground.

A surface leakage path can usually be detected because of t h e burning e f f e c t t h e high-voltage spark has on t h e plastic insulating material . The condition causing t h e high-voltage spark t o s t r a y f rom i t s intended circuit must be corrected. Any repairs

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5-90 IGNITION

of the unit should be performed very CARE- FULLY, and should include discarding any insulating par ts with evidence of high vol- t a g e flashover.

ASSEMBLING

1- T o install t h e distributor base plate, f irst notice t h e nylon ring on t h e underneath side. This nylon ring must be worked down into t h e recess in t h e upper bearing head as the base plate is installed. Lower t h e plate down onto t h e powerhead, and then work t h e pla te t o enable the nylon retainer ring t o seat in t h e upper bearing head recess. Se- cure the plate in place with t h e th ree clips on t h e perimeter. Place t h e new set of points into place on the distributor base plate, and then secure them with t h e two a t taching screws. TAKE CARE t o carefully route t h e wires along t h e edge of t h e base plate, and then connect them t o t h e terminal block.

2- Thread t h e flywheel nut onto t h e crankshaft , and then using a wrench on t h e nut , r o t a t e the crankshaft until t h e point heel is on t h e high point of t h e cam. Adjust t h e points by rotating t h e adjusting screw t o 0.010" (0.254 mm) for a used set of points and t o 0.012" (0.305 mm) for a new point set. Repea t t h e procedure f o r t h e second set of points. Remove t h e flywheel nut.

FLYWHEEL --* NUT

COIL LEAD DISTRIBUTOR

CAP

SPARK

VENT HOUSING

CONNECTOR

'\

ROTOR SPRING WASHER Distributor Parts

3- Slide the distributor rotor down t h e crankshaft with t h e t a b on t h e rotor indexed

GROUND

, L-

/u PRIMARY LEAD DISTRIBUTOR (TO AMPLIFIER)

BASE RETAINER

18 5 12

Exploded &awing of an ignition system with distributor and breaker points. Principle parts are identified.

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in to t h e recess on t h e crankshaft . Slide t h e wavy washer onto t h e crankshaft and seat i t in t h e rotor.

4- Slide the distributor c a p down t h e crankshaft and into place on t h e bearing head.

Stator 5- Install t h e s t a to r over t h e t o p of the

distributor cap. Dip t h e s t a to r a t taching screws in Loct i te for similar substance). Secure t h e s ta tor and distributor c a p with t h e screws. Tighten t h e screws t o a torque value of 48 t o 60 inch-pounds (5.42 t o 6.78 N.m). Connect the quick-disconnect for t h e s t a to r leads.

-- Flywheel

6- Check t h e inside tapered surface of t h e flywheel t o be su re i t is clean and DRY. Lower t h e flywheel onto t h e crankshaft with t h e cutout in t h e flywheel indexed over t h e Woodruff key. Thread t h e flywheel nut onto t h e crankshaft , and then using a holding f ix tu re on t h e flywheel, t ighten t h e nut t o t h e torque value specified in t h e Appendix.


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5-92 IGNITION

5-25 SYNCHRONIZING DISTRIBUTOR AND CARBURETOR MAGNETO IGNITION MODELS 50 HP - 1958 and 1959

This procedure is highly important -- synchronizing t h e ignition system with t h e fuel system t o achieve maximum performance f rom t h e outboard unit. I t might b e best t o read through t h e complete synchronizing procedure before actually performing t h e work t o obtain a good overall idea of exact ly what needs t o be done, why, and how i t i s accomplished.

Tower Shaft to Distributor 1- Place t h e advance arm from t h e dis-

tributor on t h e bottom of t h e advance arm on the tower shaft . S ta r t t h e two screws t h a t secure t h e arm in th is position, but DO NOT tighten them at this time.

2- R o t a t e t h e flywheel CLOCKWISE until the mark on t h e distributor pulley is aligned with t h e mark on t h e lower housing. Grasp t h e distributor housing and move i t until t h e mark on t h e breaker p la te is in between t h e pulley mark and t h e t iming mark.

3- When the th ree marks a r e aligned, advance t h e th ro t t l e bx moving t h e tower shaf t arm until i t is 90 from t h e embossed mark on t h e bracket on t h e por t side a t tach- e d t o t h e tower shaft. (This i s all viewed f rom above t h e engine.) Check again t o b e sure the distributor pulley mark i s aligned with t h e timing mark on t h e distributor base.

If the marks a r e still a l g n e d and t h e tower shaf t arm is still at 90 t o t h e tower s h a f t bracket -- you a r e a winner. Tighten t h e two screws securing t h e advance arm between t h e distributor and t h e tower shaft .

Tower Shaft to Carburetor 4- Remove t h e rod between t h e tower

shaf t and t h e th ro t t l e advance cam.

SPECIAL WORDS Some engine models have a double set-

screw arrangement. O n e se tscrew locks in t h e second. The f i rs t se tscrew must be completely removed before t h e second can b e backed off.

SLOWLY advance t h e th ro t t l e cam and at the s a m e t i m e watch t h e mark on the th ro t t l e cam and t h e mark on t h e nylon cam roller. The nylon roller should just begin t o move (open) t h e t h r o t t l e shaf t arm as t h e cen te r of the nylon roller comes in to alignment with t h e th ro t t l e cam timing mark. Now, if this se t t ing requires adjustment, hold t h e nvlon roller in con tac t with t h e

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th ro t t l e cam and at the s a m e t i m e loosen t h e th ro t t l e arm screw and push t h e t h r o t t l e arm TOWARDS t h e th ro t t l e cam. After t h e adjustment has been made, t ighten t h e screw securely.

5- Shift t h e engine into forward gear and at t h e s a m e t i m e r o t a t e t h e propeller t o verify t h e engine is fully engaged in the forward gear. Grasp t h e magneto and tu rn i t t o the full advance position. Hold t h e magneto in t h e full advance position with a large rubberband.

6- Insert a 0,020" (0.51 mm) fee le r gauge between t h e th ro t t l e shaf t arm and its stop.

7- A t the carburetor: insert the rod f rom t h e tower shaf t in to t h e th ro t t l e advance cam. Move t h e th ro t t l e advance cam t o t h e wide open th ro t t l e position, and t h e n t ighten the setscrew. Remove t h e rubberband and allow t h e magneto t o return t o t h e idle position. Grasp t h e arm at t h e bottom of t h e tower shaf t and r o t a t e t h e tower s h a f t t o the full advance position. Hold t h e tower s h a f t in th is poisition and check t h e following t h r e e places:

a- The th ro t t l e advance cam at t h e carburetor is against i t s stop, reference illus- t ra t ion 7.

b- Tower shaf t advance arm is against i t s stop, reference illustration 6 (without t h e feeler gauge).

c- The distributor is fully advanced against i t s stop, reference illustration 5.

Mount t h e engine in a la rge test tank or body of water and check t h e completed work.

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5-94 IGNITION

The engine MUST be mounted in a l a rge Pest tank or body of water t o adjust t h e timing. NEVER a t t e m p t t o make this adjustment with a flush a t t achment connected t o t h e lower unit or in a small, confined test tank. The no-load condition on t h e propel- l e r would cause t h e engine t o RUNAWAY resui t ing in serious damage or destruction of t h e unit.

CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower mit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump.

5-26 SYNCHRONIZING DISTRIBUTOR AND CARBURETOR BATTERY IGNITION MAGNETO IGNITION 60 HP - 1964 to 1966 75 HP - 1960 to 1965 80 HP - 1966 and 1%7 90 HP - 1964 and 1965 100 HP - 1966 and 1%7

Tower Shaft to Distributor 1- Grasp t h e t o p of t h e distributor and

r o t a t e t h e distributor COUNTERCLOCK- WISE t o t h e fully advanced position until t h e t a b on t h e distributor housing res ts f irmly against the rubber bumper. Use a la rge strong rubberband t o hold t h e distributor at this position.

2- Check t o be sure t h e inside edge of t h e control shaf t arm is aligned with t h e outer edge of the triangular shaped boss on t h e control shaf t bracket (when viewed f rom above). If the se t t ing is not cor rec t as

described, loosen t h e two control link adjusting screws and e i ther lengthen o r shorten t h e control shaf t , until t h e edges of t h e a rm and boss a r e aligned. Tighten the adjusting screws.

Tower Shaft to Carburetor 3- Remove t h e rod between t h e tower

s h a f t and t h e th ro t t l e advance cam.

SPECIAL WORDS Some engine models have a double set-

screw arrangement t o hold t h e rod in place. One se tscrew locks in t h e second. The f i r s t se tscrew must be completely removed be- f o r e t h e second can be backed off. On some other engines, a nylon yoke and pin arrangement may be used instead of t h e setscrews, reference illustration llA"".

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SYNCHRONIZING 5-95

MORE GOOD WORDS On t h e 90 hp 1964 -- 1965, and t h e

100 hp 1966 -- 1967 t h e th ro t t l e pickup and c a m mentioned in the following s t e p is loca ted on TOP of t h e carburetor. All o the r engines listed in t h e heading of this section have these i t ems on t h e SIDE of t h e carburetor , reference illustration "B".

4- SLOWLY advance t h e th ro t t l e c a m and at t h e s a m e t i m e watch t h e mark on t h e th ro t t l e cam and t h e mark on t h e nylon c a m roller. The nylon roller should just begin t o move (open) t h e th ro t t l e shaf t arm as t h e cen te r of t h e nylon roller comes into align- m e n t with t h e th ro t t l e cam timing mark. Now, if this se t t ing requires adjustment, hold t h e nylon roller in con tac t with t h e th ro t t l e cam and at the s a m e t i m e loosen t h e th ro t t l e arm screw and push t h e t h r o t t l e arm TOWARDS t h e th ro t t l e cam. After t h e adjustment has been made, t ighten t h e screw securely. -

Checking the Synchronizing Work 5- Shif t t h e engine into forward gear

and at t h e s a m e t i m e r o t a t e t h e propeller t o verify the engine is fully engaged in t h e forward gear. Grasp t h e distributor and turn i t t o the full advance position. Hold t h e distributor in t h e full advance position with a large rubber band.

6- Insert a 0.020" (0.51 mm) fee le r gauge between t h e th ro t t l e shaf t a rm and its stop. A t t h e carburetor: insert t h e rod from t h e tower s h a f t in to t h e th ro t t l e advance cam. Move t h e th ro t t l e advance cam t o t h e wide open t h r o t t l e position, and t h e n t ighten t h e setscrew.

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5-96 IGNITION

7- If the engine being serviced has t h e nylon yoke and pin arrangement, adjust t h e yoke on t h e rod until t h e pin can be inserted through t h e yoke and t h e cam follower. Insert the pin and hold i t in place with a co t t e r pin. Remove t h e rubberband.

8- Hold the tower shaf t in t h e full advance position and check t h e following t h r e e places:

a- The th ro t t l e advance c a m at t h e carburetor is against i t s stop, illustration "8".

b- Tower shaf t advance arm is against i t s stop, illustration "6", but disregard fee le r gauge.

c- The distributor is fully advanced against i t s stop, illustration "5".

9- Mount t h e engine in a large t e s t t ank o r body of water and check t h e completed work.

The engine MUST be mounted in a l a rge t e s t tank or body of water t o adjust t h e timing. NEVER a t t e m p t t o make this adjustment with a flush a t t achment connected t o t h e lower unit or in a small, confined test tank. The no-toad condition on t h e propel- l e r would cause t h e engine t o RUNAWAY resulting in serious damage or destruction o f t h e unit.

CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is rm to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump.

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SYNCHRONIZING 5-97

5-27 SYNCHRONIZING FUEL SYSTEM WITH IGNITION SYSTEM 55 HP - 1968 AND 1969 60 HP - 1970 AND 197 1

Adjust Cam Follower 1- On t h e starboard side of t h e engine:

loosen t h e screw on t h e roller arm and move the roller until the mark on t h e th ro t t l e c a m is aligned with t h e center of t h e cam follower roller JUST as the roller makes con-

tact with t h e cam. Tighten t h e sc rew securely t o hold t h e adjustment.

Ad just Carburetor and Distributor Linkage 2- On t h e starboard side of t h e engine:

move t h e distributor base and t h r o t t l e lever t o the full th ro t t l e position against their stops. The carburetor t h r o t t l e s h a f t MUST also be against i t s full th ro t t l e stop. T o adjust , turn t h e th ro t t l e cam yoke on t h e t h r o t t l e control rod until t h e conditions just described a r e satisfied.

3- If the th ro t t l e cam yoke has been removed f rom t h e th ro t t l e control rod, install the yoke onto the rod t o a rough adjustment of 5" (12.7 c m ) f rom t h e end of t h e th ro t t l e link t o the f a c e of the yoke, then make t h e linkage adjustment as just described.


5-28 SYNCHRONIZING 65 HP - 1%8 85 HP - 1968 100 HP - 1%8

T o synchronize t h e 100 hp - 1967 model only, see Section 5-26.

Adjust Cam Follower Illustration 1 Page 5-98

1- On t h e starboard side of t h e engine alongside t h e carburetor: position t h e th ro t t l e cam with t h e scr ibe mark aligned with t h e center of t h e cam follower roller shaft . To make an adjustment, loosen the adjusting screw on t h e th ro t t l e cam and move the th ro t t l e arm t o i t s l imi t and t h e

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5-98 IGNITION

5-29 SYNCHRONIZING 85 HP - 1969

W O D WORDS The cam follower has two marks one

above t h e other. The top mark is used f o r t h e cam t o carburetor adjustment, and t h e lower mark is used f o r t h e carburetor t o distributor adjustment.

Adjust Cam Follower 1- On the starboard side of t h e carbu-

retor: check t o b e su re t h e th ro t t l e valves a r e closed. Work t h e adjustment screw until t h e cen te r of t h e cam follower roller i s aligned with t h e upper mark on t h e th ro t t l e c a m JUST as t h e th ro t t l e begins t o open.

throt t le valves a r e closed. Check t o be s u r e t h e cam follower roller is contacting t h e Adjust Carburetor and Distributor Linkage cam. Tighten t h e screw t o hold t h e adjust- Illustration 2, Col. 1, Page 5-99 ment. 2- Note: The flywheel has been remov-

e d in t h e illustration ONLY for photographic

Adjust Carburetor and Distributor Linkage clari ty t o see t h e marks. On t h e starboard

2- N ~ ~ ~ : ~h~ flywheel has been remov- side of the engine: adjust t h e spark advance

ed in the illustration ONLY for photographic s top screw until t h e marks on t h e distributor

clari ty in order t o s e e t h e marks. On t h e base pla te and t h e distributor c a p a r e align-

starbdard side toward the rear of t h e engine: move t h e distributor t o t h e full advance position. The mark on t h e distributor base pla te arm should align with t h e mark on t h e distributor cap. With t h e control shaf t at t h e full th ro t t l e position against i t s stop, t h e th ro t t l e shaf t arm must also be against i t s stop. To adjust, turn t h e t h r o t t l e c a m yoke on t h e th ro t t l e control rod until t h e th ro t t l e shaf t a rm is against its s top when t h e control shaf t is in t h e full th ro t t l e position.

ea. On the starboard side of t h e engine:

adjust t h e th ro t t l e cam yoke until t h e lower mark on t h e th ro t t l e c a m is aligned with t h e center of t h e cam follower roller. Check t o b e sure t h e distributor base and t h e distributor cap a r e still aligned on the i r marks.

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SYNCHRONIZING 5-99

5-30 SYNCHRONIZING 85 HP - 1970 115 HP - 1969 AND 1970

Adjust Cam Follower Illustration I, This Column

1- On t h e starboard side of t h e carburetor: check t p be sure t h e th ro t t l e valves a r e closed. Work t h e adjustment screw until t h e center of the cam follower roller is aligned with t h e upper mark on t h e t h r o t t l e c a m JUST a s the th ro t t l e begins t o open.

Adjust Carburetor and Distributor Linkage Illustration 2, Col. 2, This Page

2- Note: The flywheel has been remov- e d in the illustration ONLY for photographic clari ty t o s e e t h e marks. On t h e s tarboard side of the engine. adjust t h e spark advance s t a p screw until t h e mark on t h e distributor base pla te aligns with t h e mark on t h e

distributor cap. On t h e starboard side of t h e carburetor: hold t h e th ro t t l e lever against t h e s top on t h e crankcase and adjust t h e th ro t t l e c a m yoke until the th ro t t l e valves a r e wide open. Check t o be su re t h e mark on t h e distributor base pla te still aligns with t h e mark on t h e distributor cap.

5-31 SYNCHRONIZING 85 HP - 1971 AND 1972 100 HP - 1971 AND 1972 125 HP - 1971 AND 1972

Adjust Cam Follower Illustration 1, This Column

1- On t h e starboard side of t h e carburetor: check t o be s u r e t h e th ro t t l e valves a r e closed. Work t h e adjustment screw until t h e center of the cam follower roller is aligned with t h e upper mark on t h e t h r o t t l e c a m JUST as the th ro t t l e begins t o open.

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of water with a test wheel t o make t h e following adjustments. NEVER a t t e m p t t o run an engine at above idle speed with a flush a t t achment connected or in a confined test tank. Such practice, with a no-load condition on t h e propeller, would cause t h e engine t o RUNAWAY causing serious damage or destruction of the unit. The test cannot be performed with t h e boat moving through t h e water.

Water must arculate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump and an overheating condition, Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump and cause the engine to overheat.

2- Connect a timing l ight t o the No. 1 ( top starboard bank) cylinder. S t a r t t h e motor and allow i t t o warm t o operating t empera tu re at 500 rpm. Gdjust t h e id le speed adjustment screw t o 5 advance timing. Shut t h e engine down. Adjust t h e th ro t t l e c a m yoke until t h e upper embossed mark on t h e th ro t t l e cam is aligned with t h e cen te r of the th ro t t l e cam roller.

Adjust Carburetor and Distributor Linkage Sta r t the engine. Shift the engine into

FORWARD gear.

CAUTION The engine MUST be in gear during t h e

following adjustment t o prevent a RUNA- WAY condition and possible destruction of t h e unit.

3- Advance the th ro t t l e t o the wide open position. In t h e wide open position t h e upper carburetor th ro t t l e shaf t roll pin

should be against i t s stop. Insert a th in piece of paper (approximately 0.003", 0.08 mm) between t h e roll pin and t h e s top on the in take manifold. Now, adjust t h e full th ro t t l e advance screw on t h e th ro t t l e advance arm until the paper can be withdrawn with just a slight amount of drag. This procedure will prevent a s t ra in on t h e throt- t l e shaft .

5-32 TIMING POINTER ADJUSTMENT 85 HP - 1971 AND 1972 100 HP - 1971 AND 1972 125 HP - 1971 AND 1972

1- A special tool (OMC No. 384887 o r a dial indicator) is required t o accurate ly make this adjustment. Remove all spark plugs f rom t h e block. Install t h e special tool or the dial indicator into the No. 1 cylinder.

R o t a t e t h e flywheel CLOCKWISE until t h e piston crown makes con tac t with t h e dial indicator or t h e special tool at 12' TDC (top dead center). Lock t h e tool o r t h e dial

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TIMING 5-10!

indicator. A t tha t point, scr ibe a mark on t h e flywheel in l ine with t h e pointer. SLOWLY r o t a t e t h e flywheel COUNER- CLOCKWISE (under normal conditions w e say NEVER t o r o t a t e t h e flywheel counterclockwise but here i t is permissable), until t h e piston again makes con tac t with t h e dial indicator or t h e special tool.

2- Scribe another mark on t h e flywheel in l ine with t h e pointer. Measure t h e distance between t h e two marks just scribed on t h e flywheel. The midway point between t h e two marks is top dead center. Loosen t h e screw and adjust t h e pointer t o align with t h e midway point between t h e two marks.

5-33 TIMING 55 hp - 1%8 and 1 %9 60 hp - 1970 and 197 1

The t iming should not require adjustment unless t h e spark advance screw has been moved, o r the amplifier has been changed and an updated one installed. The t iming should be checked any t i m e t h e ignition system is serviced.

1- Notice and identify fo r yourself, t h e square timing mark on t h e flywheel ring guard. Observe t h e sa fe ty bar installed directly above t h e carburetors. (The only

purpose of the bar is t o prevent a person's hand f rom becoming caught in t h e flywheel while t h e engine is operating.)

2- Look behind t h e sa fe ty bar and ob- se rve the adjustment screw with a locknut and a rubber cap. The timing adjustment i s made by loosening t h e nut slightly, and then threading t h e screw inward or outward.

SPECIFICATIONS Check t h e Specifications in t h e Appendix

and make a note of t h e timing degrees l i s ted f o r t h e engine being serviced.

VERY SPECIAL WORDS On some engines the t iming mark is an

embossed mark on t h e flywheel and t h e degree marks a r e embossed on the s a f e t y guard just above t h e carburetor. On other engines covered in this section, t h e opposite is true. The timing mark is embossed on t h e s a f e t y guard and t h e degree marks a r e on t h e flywheel. HOWEVER, some engines m a y also have a triangular mark embossed on t h e flywheel. When t iming t h e engines covered in this section, DISREGARD t h e triangular mark.

Connect a t iming l ight t o t h e No. 1 (top) cylinder. S t a r t t h e engine.


of wa te r with a test wheel t o make t h e following adjustment. NEVER a t t e m p t t o run an engine at above idle speed with a flush a t t achment connected o r in a confined test tank. Such practice, with a no-load condition on t h e propeller, would cause t h e engine t o RUNAWAY causing serious dam- a g e or destruction of the unit. The test cannot be performed with t h e boat moving through t h e water.

Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run

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5- 102 IGNITION

to prevent damage to the water pump and an overheating condition. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump andl cause the engine to overheat.

Allow the engine t o warm t o operating temperature at 500 rpm. Increase engine speed t o full throt t le , approximately 4500 rpm. The degree timing mark on t h e flywheel should align with t h e mark on the flywheel guard. If t h e marks do not align, shut down t h e engine and move t h e adjusting screw inward or outward just a wee bit.

CRITICAL SAFETY WORDS The reason f o r shutt ing t h e engine down

is one of SAFETY. The adjusting screw is so close t o t h e flywheel, t h e adjustment snould NOT b e a t t empted while t h e engine is running. Keep t en fingers and both hands, they'll c o m e in handy t h e res t of your life.

S t a r t t h e engine and repeat t h e check until the marks do align when t h e engine is operating at 4500 rpm. Once t h e marks align at 4500 rpm, t ighten t h e locknut t o hold t h e adjustment and replace t h e rubber cap.

5-34 TIMING 65 hp - 1%8 85 hp - 1968 to 1970 100 hp -- 1%8 and 1%9 115 hp - 1969 and 1970

The t iming should not require adjustment unless t h e spark advance screw has been moved, o r the amplifier has been changed and an updated one installed. The t iming should be checked any t i m e t h e ignition system is serviced.

1- Notice and identify fo r yourself, t h e timing degree marks on t h e flywheel. T h e t iming pointer for the engines covered in

th i s section is located at one end of t h e l if t ing bracket a t t ached t o t h e powerhead opposite t h e carburetor.

2- Observe t h e adjustment screw a t t ached t o t h e powerhead underneath t h e flywheel and just behind t h e th ro t t l e advance a r m on t h e starboard side of t h e engine.

65 hp, 85 hp, and 100 hp - 1%8 Only 3- The adjustment screw on t h e s e en-

gines is located on t h e port side and is a t t ached t o t h e powerhead. The screw i s mounted in such a manner t h a t i t acts as a s top fo r a flange a t t ached t o t h e distributor advance a rm as this arm rota tes on t h e end of t h e tower shaft.

Check t h e Specifications in the Appendix and make a note of t h e timing degrees l isted for t h e engine being serviced.

4- Connect a t iming light t o t h e No. 1 ( top starboard bank) cylinder. S ta r t t h e engine.

CAUTION The engine MUST be mounted in a body

of water with a test wheel t o make t h e following adjustment. NEVER a t t e m p t t o run an engine at above idle speed with a flush a t t achment connected or in a confined test tank. Such pract ice , with a no-load condition on t h e propeller, would cause t h e engine t o RUNAWAY causing serious dam- a g e or destruction of the unit. The t e s t

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cannot be performed with t h e boat moving through t h e water.

Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump and an overheating condition, Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump andl cause the engine to over heat.

Allow t h e engine t o warm t o operating t empera tu re at 500 rpm. Increase engine speed t o full throt t le , approximately 4500 rprn. The pointer on t h e bracket should align with t h e proper degree mark on the flywheel as specified in t h e Appendix. If t h e proper degree mark does not align, shut down t h e engine, loosen t h e locknut, and move t h e adjusting screw inward or outward just a wee bit. One complete turn of t h e adjusting screw will advance or re tard t h e timing one full degree.

CRITICAL SAFETY WORDS The reason f o r shutt ing t h e engine down

is one of SAFETY. The adjusting screw is very close t o t h e flywheel. The adjus tment can be made with a screwdriver while t h e engine is running, but w e STRONGLY recommend t h e engine be shut down. The few e x t r a minutes involved will help you keep t e n fingers and both hands --they'll c o m e in handy t h e rest of your life.

S ta r t the engine and repeat the check until t h e pointer and t h e proper degree mark do align when the engine is operating at 4500 rpm. O n c e t h e marks align at 4500 rpm, t ighten t h e locknut t o hold t h e adjustment.

5-35 TIMING - CD IGNITION - FLYWHEEL WITH SENSOR 100 HP - 1967 Idle Timing Check

1- Connect one lead of a t iming l ight t o t h e No. 1 (top starboard bank) cylinder. Connect t h e other lead t o a good ground on

t h e engine. S ta r t and o p e r a t e t h e engine a t 500 rpm. Note: In t h e illustration, t h e distributor Cap and belt have been removed ONLY for photographic clari ty t o show the timing marks.


unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump and an overheating condition, Just f ive seconds without water dl damage the water pump andl cause the engine to overheat,

A t 500 rpm, t h e mark on t h e distributor pulley MUST align with t h e mark on t h e distributor housing. If the marks do not align, t h e keyway in t h e flywheel, t h e Wood- ruff key, rotor wheel may be damaged, or t h e sensor may not be adjusted properly, o r t h e sensor may not be located in t h e cor rec t pin. Actually, t h e r e is no adjustment. The t iming marks must align at 500 rpm. If they do not, t h e defect ive par t or condition must b e isolated and corrected.

Full-Advance Timing Check CAUTION

The engine MUST b e mounted in a body of wa te r with a test wheel t o make t h e following full-advance t iming check. NEV- ER a t t e m p t t o run an engine at above idle

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5- 104 IGNITION

speed with a flush a t t achment connected o r in a confined test tank. Such pract ice , with a no-load condition on t h e propeller, would cause t h e engine t o RUNAWAY causing serious damage or destruction of t h e unit. The test cannot be performed with t h e boat moving through t h e water.

2- See illustration "2", Col. 2, Page 5- 103. With t h e t iming l ight still connected t o t h e No. 1 cylinder, observe t h e timing m a r k on t o p of the flywheel and t h e square mark on t h e a f t starboard side of t h e flywheel guard. S ta r t the engine and allow i t t o warm t o operating t empera tu re at 500 rpm. Increase engine speed t o 4500 rprn and ob- se rve t h e timing marks. If t h e marks do no t align, loosen t h e nut on t h e starboard side of t h e distributor housing. Adjust t h e sc rew inward or outward until the timing marks a r e aligned.

5-36 TIMING 125 hp - 1971 and 1972


of wa te r with a test wheel t o make t h e following t iming check. NEVER a t t e m p t t o run an engine at above idle speed with a flush a t t achment connected or in a confined test tank. Such practice, with a no-load condition on t h e propeller, would cause t h e engine t o RUNAWAY causing serious clam- a g e or destruction of the unit. The test cannot be performed with t h e boat moving through t h e water.

Water must arculate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump and an

overheating condition. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump d came the engine to overheat.

Idle Adjustment First , check t h e specifications in t h e

Appendix t o determine t h e proper number of degrees of timing advance.

1- Connect one lead of a t iming l ight t o t h e No. 1 ( top starboard bank) cylinder. Connect t h e other lead t o a good ground on t h e engine. S ta r t and opera te t h e engine at 500 rprn until i t reaches normal operating temperature . The flywheel ring gear has degree marks clearly visible. Observe t h e pointer loca ted on t h e forward side of the engine.

S ta r t and o p e r a i e f he engine at 500 rprn until i t reaches normal operating temperature. With t h e engine operating at 500 rprn t h e pointer should be aligned with t h e 5 d mark on t h e flywheel. If t h e pointer is not aligned, adjust t h e t o p screw on t h e t h r o t t l e advance arm toobring t h e pointer into alignment with t h e 5 mark.

High-speed Adjustment 2- Increase engine speed t o 4500 rpm.

The pointer should be directed t o t h e proper degree mark (as determined f rom t h e Speci- fications). If t h e proper degree m a r k is no t indicated at 4500 rpm, loosen t h e nut on t h e th ro t t l e s top on t h e starboard side of t h e engine. Move t h e screw inward or outward until t h e proper degree mark is indicated at 4500 rpm, then t ighten t h e nut securely t o hold t h e adjustment.

SPECIAL WORDS The t iming pointer is secured t o the

bracket with a t taching screws. Now, it is possible tha t the pointer could have been changed intentionally or accidently. There- fore, a Timing Pointer Adjustment may be necessary as outlined in t h e following procedure.

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ELECTRICAL 6-1 INTRODUCTION

The battery, gauges and horns, charging system, and t h e cranking system a r e a l l considered subsystems of t h e e lect r ica l system. Each of these units or subsystems will b e covered in deta i l in this chapter beginning with t h e battery.

All engines covered in this manual use t h e magneto ignition system and a ba t t e ry is not required t o opera te t h e engine. Most of t h e larger horsepower units use a cranking motor for s tar t ing and t h e ba t t e ry is only used t o supply power for this motor.

The s tar t ing circuit consists of a crafik- ing motor and a starter-engaging mechanism. A solenoid is used as a heavy-du'ty switch t o carry t h e heavy current f rom t h e ba t t e ry t o t h e s t a r t e r motor. The solenoid is actuated by turning t h e ignition key t o t h e START position. On some models, a pushbutton is used t o a c t u a t e t h e solenoid.

These engines are also equipped with a hand s t a r t e r for use when t h e e lec t r i c s t a r t- e r motor sys tem is inoperative.

6-2 BATTERIES

The ba t t e ry is one of t h e most important par ts of t h e electri-cal system. In addition t o providing electrical power t o s t a r t t h e engine, i t also provides power for operation of t h e t h e running lights, radio, e lect r ica l accessories, and possibly t h e pump for a bai t tank.

Because of its job and t h e consequences, (failure t o perform in an emergency) t h e best advice is t o purchase a well-known brand, with an extended warranty period, f rom a reputable dealer.

The usual warranty covers a prorated replacement policy, which means you would b e enti t led t o a consideration for t h e t i m e le f t on t h e warranty period if t h e ba t t e ry should prove defect ive before its t ime.

Do not consider a ba t t e ry of less than 70-ampere hour capacity. If in doubt as t o how large your boat requires, make a liberal e s t imate and then purchase t h e one with t h e next higher ampere rating.

MARINE BATTERIES

Because marine bat ter ies a r e required t o perform under much more rigorous conditions than automotive batteries, they a r e constructed much differently than those used in automobiles or trucks. Therefore, a marine ba t t e ry should always be t h e No. 1 unit for t h e boat and other types of bat ter- ies used only in an emergency.

Marine bat ter ies have a much heavier exterior case t o withstand t h e violent pounding and shocks imposed on i t as t h e boat moves through rough water and in extremely t ight turns.

The pla tes in marine bat ter ies a r e thick- e r than in automotive bat ter ies and each

A fully charged battery, filled to the proper level with electrolyte, is the heart of the ignition system. Engine starting and efficient performance can never be obtained if the battery is below a fully charged rating.

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6-2 ELECTRICAL

plate is securely anchored within t h e battery case t o ensure extended life.

The caps of marine bat ter ies a r e "spill proof" t o prevent acid f rom spilling in to t h e bilges when t h e boat heels t o one side in a t ight turn, or is moving through rough water.

Because of these features , t h e marine ba t t e ry will recover f rom a low charge condition and give sa t is factory service over a much longer period of t i m e than any type of automotive- type unit.

BATTERY CONSTRUCTION

A ba t te ry consists of a number of pos- i t ive and negative pla tes immersed in a solution of diluted sulfuric acid. The plates contain dissimilar ac t ive materials and a r e kept apar t by separators. The plates a r e grouped in to what a r e t e rmed elements. Pla te s t raps on t o p of each e lement connect all of t h e positive plates and all of t h e negative plates into groups. The ba t t e ry is divided in to cells which hold a number of

BATTERY RATINGS

Two ratings a r e used t o classify hat ter - ies: one is a 20-hour rat ing at 8 0 O ~ and t h e other is a cold rat ing at O'F. This second figure indicates t h e cranking load capaci ty and is referred t o as t h e Peak W a t t Rat ing of a battery. This Peak Watt Rating (PWR) has been developed t o measure t h e cold- cranking abil i ty of t h e battery. The numeri- cal rat ing is embossed on each ba t t e ry c a s e at t h e base and is determined by multiplying t h e maximum current by t h e maximum voltage.

The ampere-hour rat ing of a ba t t e ry is i t s capacity t o furnish a @ven amount of amperes over a perioc! of t i m e at a cell voltage of 1.5. here fore, a ba t t e ry with a capaci ty of maintaining 3 amperes for 20 hours at 1.5 volts would be classified as a 60-ampere hour battery.

Do not confuse t h e ampere-hour rat ing with t h e PWR, because t h e y a r e two un- related figures used for different purposes.

A replacement ba t t e ry should have a power rat ing equal or as close t o t h e old unit as possible.

t h e elements apar t f rom t h e others. The B A n E ~ y LOCATION ent i re arrangement is contained within a

u

hard-rubber case. The top is a one-piece cover and contains t h e filler caps for e a c h cell. The terminal posts protrude through t h e top where t h e ba t t e ry connections fo r t h e boat a r e made. Each of t h e cells is connected t o i t s neighbor in a positive-to- negative manner with a heavy s t r a p called t h e cel l connector.

Every ba t t e ry installed in a boat must be secured in a well-protected ventilatec! area. If t h e ba t t e ry a r e a is not well venti lated, hydrogen gas which is given off during charging could become very explosive if t h e gas is concentrated and confined. Because of i ts size, weight, and acid content , t h e ba t t e ry must b e well-secured. If t h e bat- t e r y should break loose during rough boat -

maneuvers, considerable damage could b e done, including damage t o t h e hull.

BATTERY SERVICE

The ba t t e ry requires periodic servicing and a definite maintenance program t o en: su re extended life. If the ba t t e ry should test satisfactori ly, but still fai ls t o perform properly, one of four problems could be t h e cause.

1- An accessory might have accidently been l e f t on overnight o r fo r a long period during t h e day. Such an oversight would

The battery MUST be located near the engine in a result in a discharged battery. well-ventilated area. It must be secured in such a 2- Slow speed engine operation for long manner that absolutely no movement is possible in any periods of t i m e resulting in an undercharged direction under the most violent actions of the boat. condition.

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BATTERY SERVICE 6-3

3- Using more electrical power than t h e generator or a l ternator can replace resulting in an undercharged condition.

4- A defec t in t h e charging system. A fau l ty generator or a l ternator system, a defect ive regulator, or high resistance somewhere in t h e system, could cause t h e bat tery t o become undercharged.

5- Failure t o maintain t h e ba t t e ry in good order. This might include a low level of e lect rolyte in t h e cells; loose or dirty cable connections at t h e ba t t e ry terminals; o r possibly an excessively di r ty ba t t e ry top.

Electrolyte Level The most common pract ice of checking

t h e e lect rolyte level in a ba t t e ry is t o remove t h e cell c a p and visually observe t h e level in t h e vent well. The bottom of e a c h vent well has a spli t vent which will cause t h e surface of t h e e lect rolyte t o appear distorted when i t makes contact . When t h e distortion first appears at t h e bottom of t h e spli t vent, t h e e lect rolyte level is correct .

Some late-model bat ter ies have an elec- trol yte-level indicator installed which operates in t h e following manner:

A transparent rod extends through t h e center of one of t h e cell caps. The lower

t i p of t h e rod is immersed in t h e e lect rolyte when t h e level is correct . If t h e level should drop below normal, t h e lower t ip of t h e rod is exposed and t h e upper end glows as a warning t o add water. Such a device is only necessary on one cell cap because if t h e e lect rolyte is low in one cell i t is also low in t h e other cells. BE SURE t o replace t h e c a p with t h e indicator onto t h e second cell f rom t h e positive terminal.

During hot weather and periods of heavy use, t h e e lect rolyte level should be checked more of ten than during normal operation. Add colorless, odorless, drinking water t o bring t h e level of e lect rolyte in each cell t o t h e proper level. TAKE CARE not t o overfill, because adding an excessive amount of water will cause loss of electro- l y t e and any loss will result in poor performance, shor t ba t t e ry l ife, and will contr ibute quickly t o corrosion. NEVER add electro- l y t e from another battery. Use only clean pure water.

Cleaning Dirt and corrosion should be cleaned

f rom t h e ba t t e ry just as soon as i t is discovered. Any accumulation of ac id film or dirt will permit current to flow between t h e terminals. Such a current flow will drain t h e ba t t e ry over a period of time.

Clean t h e exterior of t h e ba t t e ry with a solution of diluted ammonia or a soda solution to neutralize any acid which may be present. Flush t h e cleaning solution off with clean water. TAKE CARE t o prevent any of t h e neutralizing solution f rom entering t h e cells, by keeping t h e caps tight.

A poor contact at t h e terminals will add

One of the most e f fec t ive means of cleaning the battery terminals is to use a wire brush designed for this specific purpose.

An inexpensive brush can be ~ r c h a s e d and used to clean battery lead connectors to ensure a proper connection.

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6-4 ELECTR lCAL

resistance t o t h e charging circuit. This resistance will cause t h e voltage regulator t o register a fully charged bat tery , and thus cu t down on t h e a l ternator output adding t o t h e low ba t t e ry charge problem.

Scrape t h e bat tery posts clean with a suitable tool or with a stiff wire brush. Clean t h e inside of t h e cable clamps t o be sure they do not cause any resistance in t h e circuit.

Battery Testing A hydrometer is a device t o measure t h e

percentage of sulfuric acid in t h e ba t t e ry e lect rolyte in t e rms of specific gravity. When t h e condition of t h e ba t t e ry drops f rom fully charged t o discharged, t h e acid leaves t h e solution and enters t h e plates, causing t h e specific gravity of t h e electro- l y t e to drop.

The following six points should be observed when using a hydrometer.

1- NEVER a t t e m p t t o t ake a reading irn mediately a f t e r adding water t o t h e battery. Allow at leas t 114 hour of charging at a high r a t e t o thoroughly mix t h e electro- l y t e with t h e new water and t o cause vigor- ous gassing.

2- ALWAYS be sure t h e hydrometer is clean inside and out as a precaution against contaminating t h e electrolyte.

3- If a thermometer is an integral pa r t of the hydrometer, draw liquid into i t several t imes t o ensure t h e correct t empera tu re before taking a reading.

4- BE SURE t o hold the hydrometer vertically and suck up liquid only until t h e f loa t is f r e e and floating.

A pair of pliers should be useo to tighten the wingnuts, when they are used. Securing the wingnuts by hand is not adequate, the connections will vibrate loose.

5- ALWAYS hold t h e hydrometer at e y e level and t a k e t h e reading at t h e surface of t h e liquid with t h e f loat f r e e and floating.

Disregard t h e light curvature appearing where t h e liquid rises against t h e f loat stem. This phenomenon is due t o surface tension.

6- DO NOT drop any of t h e ba t t e ry fluid on t h e boat or on your clothing, it is ext remely caustic. Use water and baking soda t o neutralize any ba t t e ry liquid t h a t does accidently drop.

After withdrawing e lect rolyte from the ba t t e ry cell until t h e f loat is barely f r e e , n o t e t h e level of t h e liquid inside t h e hydrometer . If t h e level is within t h e green band range, t h e condition of t h e ba t t e ry is satisfactory. If t h e level is within t h e whi te band, t h e ba t t e ry is in fa i r condition, and if t h e level is in t h e red band, i t needs charging badly or is dead and should be replaced. If t h e level fails t o r ise above t h e red band a f t e r charging, t h e only answer is t o replace t h e battery.

A check of the electrolyte in the battery should be on the maintenance schedule for any boat. A'hydrometer reading of 1.300 or in the green band, indicates the battery is in satisfactory condition. If the reading is 1.150 or in the red band, the battery needs to be charged. Observe the six safety points given in the text when using a hydrometer.

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BATTERY SERVICE 6-5

JUMPER CABLES

If booster bat ter ies a r e used for s tar t ing an engine t h e jumper cables must be connected correct ly and in t h e proper sequence t o prevent damage t o e i ther bat tery , or t o t h e a1 ternator diodes.

ALWAYS connect a cable from the posi- t ive terminal of t h e dead ba t t e ry t o t h e positive terminal of the good ba t t e ry FIRST. NEXT, connect one end of t h e other cable t o t h e negative terminal of the good ba t t e ry and t h e other end t o t h e ENGINE for a good ground. By making t h e ground connection on t h e engine, if t h e r e is an a r c when you make t h e connection i t will not be near t h e battery. An a r c near t h e ba t t e ry could cause an explosion, destroying t h e bat tery and causing serious personal INJURY.

DISCONNECT the ba t t e ry ground cable before replacing an a l ternator or before connecting any type of meter t o t h e d t e r - nator.

If i t is necessary t o use a fast-charger on a dead bat tery , ALWAYS disconnect one of t h e boat cables from the ba t t e ry FIRST, t o prevent burning out t h e diodes in t h e rectifier .

NEVER use a fast-charger as a booster t o s t a r t the engine because t h e voltage regulator may b e DAMAGED.

STORAGE

If t h e boat i s t o be laid up for t h e winter or for more than a f e w weeks, special

An explosive hydrogen gas is normally released from the cells under a wide range of circumstances. This battery exploded when the gas ignited from someone smoking in the area when the caps were removed. Such an explosion could also be caused by a spark from the battery terminals igniting the gas.

at tent ion must b e given t o t h e ba t t e ry t o prevent complete discharge or possible darn- a g e t o t h e terminals and wiring. Refore putting t h e boat in storage, disconnect and remove t h e batteries. Clean them thoroughly of any dirt or corrosion, and then charge them to full specific gravity reading. Af te r they a r e fully charged, s t o r e them in a clean cool dry place where they will not be damaged or knocked over.

NEVER s to re t h e ba t t e ry with anything on top of i t or cover t h e ba t t e ry in such a manner as to prevent air from circulating around t h e fillercaps. All batteries, both new a d old, will discharge during periods of storage, more so if they a re hot than if t h e y remain cool. Therefore, t h e e lect rolyte level and t h e specific gravity should b e checked at regular intervals. A drop in t h e specific gravity reading is cause t o charne them back t o a full reading.

In cold climates, c a r e should be exercised in selectiner t h e ha t t e ry s to rape area. A fully-charged ba t t e ry will f r e e z e at about 6Q degrees below zero. A discharged battery , almost dead, will have ice formirap, at a b u t 13 cdegrees above zero.

DUAL BATTERY INSTALLATION

Three methods a r e availaMe for utilizing a dual-battery hook-up.

A cornmor, set of heavy-duty jumper cables. Ob- serve the safety precautions given in the text when using jomper cables.

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6-6 ELECTR l CAL

Schematic drawing of a three oattery, two engine hookup.

1- A high-capacity switch can be used t o connect t h e two batteries. The accompanying illustration details the connections fo r installation of such a switch. This t y p e of switch installation has the advantage of being simple, inexpensive, and easy t o mount and hookup. However, if t h e switch is accidently l e f t in t h e closed position, i t will cause t h e convenience loads t o run down both bat ter ies and t h e advantage of t h e dual installation is lost. The switch may be closed intentionally t o t ake advantage of

Schematic drawing for a two battery, one engine hookup.

Schematic drawing far a two battery, two engine hookup.

t h e ex t ra capaci ty of the two batteries, or i t may be temporari ly closed t o help s t a r t the engine under adverse conditions.

2- A relay, can be connected in to t h e ignition circuit t o enable both bat ter ies t o be automatically put in parallel for charging o r t o isolate them for ignition use during engine cranking and s tar t . By connecting t h e relay coil t o t h e ignition terminal of t h e ignition-starting switch, t h e relay will close during t h e s t a r t t o a id t h e s t a r t ing battery. If t h e second ba t t e ry is allowed t o run down,

OTHER LOAD

STARTER ii

Schematic drawing for a single battery, one engine hookup.

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GAUGES AND HORNS 6-7

this arrangement can be a disadvantage since i t will draw a load f rom t h e s tar t ing ba t t e ry while cranking t h e engine. One way t o avoid such a condition is t o connect t h e relay coil to t h e ignition switch accessory terminal. When connected in th is manner, while t h e engine is being cranked, t h e relay is open. But when t h e engine is running with t h e ignition switch in t h e normal position, t h e relay is closed, and t h e second ba t t e ry is being charged at the s a m e t i m e as the start ing battery.

3- A heavy duty switch installed as d o s e t o t h e batteries as possible can be connected between them. If such an arrangement is used, i t must m e e t t h e standards of t h e American Boat and Yacht Council, Inc. o r t h e F i r e Protect ion Standard f o r Motor C r a f t , N.F.P.A. No. 302.

6-3 GAUGES AND HORNS

Gauges or lights a r e installed t o warn t h e operator of a condition in t h e cooling and lubrication systems tha t may need attention. The fuel gauge gives an indication of the amount of fuel in t h e tank. If t h e engine overheats, a warning light will c o m e on or a horn sound advising t h e operator t o shut down t h e engine and check t h e cause of t h e warning before serious damage is done.

CONSTANT-VOLTAGE SYSTEM

In order for gauges t o register properly, t h e y must be supplied with a s teady voltage. The voltage variations produced by t h e engine charging system would cause e r r a t i c gauge operation, t o o high when t h e generator or a l ternator voltage is high, and too low when t h e generator or a l ternator is not charging. To remedy this problem, a constant- voltage system is used t o reduce t h e 12-14 volts of t h e electrical system t o an average of 5 volts. This s teady 5 volts ensures t h e gauges will read accurate ly under varying conditions from the electrical system.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

Systems utilizing warning l ights do not require a constant-voltage sys tem, therefore , th is service is not needed.

Service procedures fo r checking t h e gauges and the i r sending units is detailed in t h e following sections.

TEMPERATURE GAUGES

The body of t empera tu re gauges must b e grounded and t h e y must be supplied with 12 volts. Many gauges have a terminal on t h e mounting bracket for a t taching a ground wire. A tang f rom t h e mounting bracket makes con tac t with t h e gauge. CHECK t o be s u r e t h e tang does make good con tac t wi th t h e gauge.

Ground t h e wire t o t h e sending unit and t h e needle of t h e gauge should move t o t h e full right position indicating t h e gauge is in serviceable condition.

WARNING LIGHTS

If a problem arises on a boat equipped with water and t empera tu re lights or warning horn, t h e f i rs t a r e a t o check is t h e l ight assembly f o r loose wires or burned-out bulbs. Check t h e horn in t h e sh i f t box fo r loose connections and proper grounding. When t h e ignition key i s turned on, t h e l ight assembly is supplied with 12 volts and grounded through t h e sending unit mounted on t h e engine. When t h e sending unit makes con tac t because t h e water t empera tu re is too hot, t h e circuit t o ground is completed and t h e l a m p should l ight or t h e horn sound.

Check The Bulb: Turn t h e ignition switch on. Disconnect t h e wire at t h e engine sending unit, and then ground t h e wire. T h e l a m p on the dash should l ight or t h e horn sound. If it does not light, check f o r a burned-out bulb or a break in t h e wiring t o t h e light. If t h e horn does not sound, check

The gauges and controls on the dashboard should be kept clean and protected from water spray, especially when operating in a salt water atmosphere.

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6-8 ELECTR l CAL

inside the shi f t box. Disconnect t h e horn wires, and then connect a good di rect wire f rom the ba t t e ry t o t h e horn and another wire f rom t h e horn t o a good ground. The horn should sound. If t h e horn fails t o sound, t h e horn is defective. If t h e horn does sound, t h e wires or connections f rom t h e engine t o t h e horn need attention.

THERMOMELT STICKS

Thermornelt sticks a r e an easy method of determining if t h e engine is running at t h e proper temperature. Thermomel t st icks a r e not expensive and a re available at your local marine dealer or from Bet ter Way Marine. (See inside back cover for how t o order i t ems f rom B.W .M.

Sta r t t h e engine with t h e propeller in t h e water and run i t for about 5 minutes at roughly 3000 rpm.


The 140 degree st ick should mel t when you touch i t t o t h e lower thermosta t housing or on t h e top cylinder. If i t does not mel t , t h e thermosta t is s tuck in t h e open position and t h e engine t empera tu re is t o o low.

Touch t h e 170 degree s t ick t o t h e s a m e spot on t h e lower thermosta t housing or on t h e t o p cylinder. The s t ick should not melt. If i t does, t h e thermosta t is s tuck in t h e closed position or t h e water pump is not operating properly because t h e engine is running too hot-. For service procedures on t h e cooling system, see Chapter 8.

A thermomelt stick is a quick, simple, inexpensive, and fairly accurate method to determine engine running temperature.

6-4 FUEL SYSTEM

FUEL GAUGE

The fuel gauge is intended t o indicate t h e quanti ty of fuel in t h e tank. As t h e experienced boatman has learned, t h e gauge reading is seldom an accura te report of t h e fuel available in t h e tank. The main reason fo r th i s fa lse reading is because t h e boat i s rarely on an even keel. A considerable di f ference in fuel quant i ty will b e indicated by t h e gauge if t h e bow or s t e r n is heavy, or if t h e boat has a l i s t t o port or starboard.

Therefore, t h e reading is usually low. The amount of fuel drawn from t h e t ank is dependent on t h e location of t h e fuel pickup t u b e in t h e tank. The engine may cu tou t while cruising because t h e pickup t u b e is above t h e fuel level. Instead of assuming t h e t ank is empty, shi f t weight in t h e boat t o change the t r im and t h e problem may be solved until you a r e ab le t o t a k e on m o r e fuel . FUEL GAUGE HOOKUP

The Boating Industry Association recom- mends t h e following color coding be used on all fuel gauge installations:

Black - for all current-carrying conductors.

Pink -- insulated wire for t h e fuel gauge sending unit t o t h e gauge.

Red -- insulated wire for a connection from t h e positive side of t h e ba t t e ry t o any electrical equipment.

Connect one end of a pink insulated wire t o t h e terminal on t h e gauge marked TANK and t h e other end t o t h e terminal on t o p of t h e tank unit.

Connect one end of a black wire t o t h e terminal on t h e fuel gauge marked IGN and t h e other end t o t h e ignition switch.

IGNIrION SWITCH BATTERY

- -?

GROUND

THROUGH FRAME

Schematic for a safe fuel tank gauge hookup.

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FUEL SYSTEM 6-9

Connect one end of a second black wire t o t h e fuel gauge terminal marked GRD and t h e other end t o a good ground. I t i s important for t h e fuel gauge case t o have a good common ground with t h e tank unit. Aboard an all-metal boat, this ground wire is not necessary. However, if t h e dashboard is insulated, o r made of wood or plastic, a wire MUST be run f rom t h e gauge ground terminal t o one of t h e bolts securing t h e sending unit in t h e fuel tank, and then f rom there t o t h e NEGATIVE side of the battery.

FUEL GAUGE TROUBLESHOOTING

In order for t h e fuel gauge t o opera te properly, t h e sending unit and t h e receiving unit must be of t h e s a m e type and preferably of t h e s a m e make.

The following symptoms and possible corrective actions will be helpful in restoring a faul ty fuel gauge circuit t o proper operation.

If you suspect t h e gauge is not operating properly, t h e f i rs t a rea t o check is all electrical connections from one end t o t h e other. Be sure t h e y a r e clean and tight.

Next, check t h e common ground wire between t h e negative side of the bat tery , t h e fuel tank, and t h e gauge on t h e dash.

If all wires and connections in t h e circuit a r e in good condition, remove t h e sending unit from the tank. Run a wire from t h e gauge mounting flange on t h e tank t o t h e f lange of the sending unit. Now, move t h e float up-and-down t o determine if t h e receiving unit operates. If the sending unit does not appear t o operate , move t h e f loa t t o t h e midway point of i ts travel and see if t h e receiving unit indicates half full.

If t h e pointer does not move f rom t h e EMPTY position one of four faults could b e t o blame:

1- The dash receiving unit is not properly grounded.

2- No voltage at t h e dash receiving unit. 3- Negative mete r connections a r e on a

positive grounded system. 4- Posit ive mete r connections a r e on a

negative grounded system. If t h e pointer fails t o move f rom t h e

FULL position, t h e problem could be one of t h r e e faul ts.

1- The tank sending unit i s not properly grounded.

2- Improper connection between t h e t ank sending unit and t h e receiving unit on

t h e dash. 3- The wire from the gauge t o t h e ipni-

tion switch is connected at t h e wrong te rminal.

If the pointer remains at t h e 314 full mark, i t indicates a six-volt gauge is install- e d in a 12-volt system.

If the pointer remains at about 318 full, i t indicates a 12-volt gauge is instal lee in a six-vol t system.

Preliminary Inspection Inspect all of the wiring in t h e circuit

f o r possible damage t o t h e insulation o r conductor. Carefully check:

1- Ground connections at t h e receiving unit on t h e dash.

2- Harness connector t o the dash unit. 3- Body harness connector t o t h e chassis

harness. 4- Ground connection f rom the fuel tank

t o t h e t ank floor pan. 5- Feed wire connection at t h e t ank

sending unit.

Gauge Always Reads Full when t h e ignition switch is ON:

1- Check t h e electrical connections at t h e receiving unit on t h e dash; t h e body harness connector t o chassis harness connector; and t h e tank unit connector in t h e tank.

2- Make a continuity check of the ground wire f rom t h e t ank t o t h e t ank floor pan.

3- Connect a known good tank unit t o t h e t ank feed wire and t h e ground lead. Raise and lower t h e f loat and observe t h e receiving unit on t h e dash. If t h e dash unit follows t h e arm movement, replace t h e t ank sending unit.

Gauge Always Reads Empty when t h e ignition switch is ON:

Disconnect t h e t ank unit f eed wire and do not allow t h e wire terminal t o ground. The gauge on t h e dash should read FULL.

If Gauge Reads Empty: 1- Connect a spare dash unit into t h e

dash unit harness connector and pround t h e unit. If t h e spare unit reads FULL, t h e original unit is shorted and must be replaced.

2- A reading of EMPTY indicates a shor t in t h e harness between t h e tank sending unit and t h e gauge on t h e dash.

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6- 10 ELECTRICAL

If Gauge Reads Full: 1- Connect a known good tank sending

unit t o t h e t ank feed wire and t h e ground 1 ead.

2- Raise and lower rhe f loat while observing t h e dash gauge. If dash gauge follows movement of t h e f loat , replace t h e tank sending unit.

Gauge Never Indicates Full This test requires shop test equipment. 1- Disconnect the feed wire t o t h e tank

unit and connect t h e wire t o a good ground through a variable resistor or through a spare tank unit.

2- Observe t h e dash gauge reading. The reading should be FULL when resistance i s increased t o about 90 ohms. This resistance would simulate a full tank.

3- If t h e check indicates t h e dash gauge is operating properly, t h e trouble is e i the r in t h e tank sending unit rheosta t being shorted, or the f loat is binding. The arm could b e bent, or t h e tank may be deformed. Inspect and cor rec t t h e problem.

6-5 TACHOMETER

An accura te tachometer can b e installed on any engine. Such an instrument provides a n indication of engine speed in revolutions per minute (rpm). This is accomplished by measuring the number of e lect r ica l pulses per minute generated in t h e primary c i rcui t of t h e ignition system. The proper tachom- e t e r MUST be installed. Be sure t o check with your local marine dealer t o ensure t h e proper unit is being installed. The wrong tachometer will cause serious damage t o t h e ignition system.

Maximum engine performance can only be obtained through proper tuning using a tachometer.

The mete r readings -range from 0 t o 6,000 rpm, in increments of 100. Tachome- t e r s have solid-state electronic circuits which eliminates t h e need fo r relays o r ba t t e r i es and contributes t o thei r accuracy. The e lect ronic par ts of t h e tachometer sus- ceptible t o moisture a r e coated t o prolong their life. Take t i m e at t h e marine dealer t o specify t h e unit being serviced when purchasing a new tachometer t o ensure t h e cor rec t unit is installed.

6-6 HORNS

The only reason for servicing a horn is because i t fai ls t o opera te properly o r because i t is o u t of tune. In most cases, t h e problem can be t raced t o an open c i rcui t in t h e wiring or t o a defect ive relay.

Cleaning: Crocus cloth and carbon tetrachloride

should be used t o clean t h e con tac t points. NEVER fo rce t h e contacts a p a r t o r you will bend t h e con tac t spring and change t h e operating tension.

Check Relay and Wiring: Connect a wire f rom t h e ba t t e ry t o t h e

horn terminal. If t h e horn operates, t h e problem is in t h e relay or in t h e horn wiring.

LOCKNUT \

AD JUST NUT

0.007" GAUGE 1/4" Wl DE

CONTACT BLADE l N SULATOR

The tone of a horn can be adjusted with a 0.007" feeler gauge, as described in the text. TAKE CARE to prevent the feeler gauge from making contact with the case, or the circuit will be shorted out.

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GENERAL INFORMATION 6- 1 1

If both of these appear satisfactory, t h e horn is defect ive and needs t o be replaced. Before replacing t h e horn however, connect a second jumper wire from t h e horn f r a m e t o ground t o check t h e ground connection.

Test the winding for an open circuit , faul ty insulation, o r poor ground. Check t h e resistor with an ohmmeter, or test t h e condenser for capacity, ground, and leakage. Inspect t h e diaphragm for cracks.

Ad just Horn Tone Loosen t h e locknut, and then r o t a t e t h e

adjusting screw until t h e desired tone is reached. On a dual horn installation, disconnect one horn and adjust each, one-at-a- time. The con tac t point adjustment is made by inserting a 0.007" (1.78 mm) feeler gauge blade between t h e adjusting nut and t h e con tac t blade insulator. TAKE CARE not t o allow t h e feeler gauge t o touch t h e metall ic par ts of t h e con tac t points because i t would shor t them out. Now, loosen the locknut and turn t h e adjusting nut down until t h e horn fails t o sound. Loosen the adjusting nut slowly until t h e horn barely sounds. The locknut MUST b e t ightened a f t e r each test. When t h e feeler gauge is withdrawn t h e horn will operate properly and t h e current draw will be satisfactory.

6-7 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM GENERAL INFORMATION

All outboard engines covered in th i s manual have an e lec t r i c s t a r t e r motor coupled with a mechanical gear mesh between the cranking motor and the engine flywheel. This arrangement is similar t o t h e method used t o crank an automotive engine. If t h e e lec t r i c cranking system is inopera- t ive for any reason, including a dead or weak bat tery , some of t h e large horsepower

engines may still b e cranked and s ta r t ed by hand. This is not an easy task, but i t can b e done, reference illustration "Am.

Two types of s t a r t e r motors may b e installed on t h e horsepower and model year engines l isted on t h e cover of this manual. On ear ly model engines the drive gear was separated f rom t h e s t a r t e r motor. An inter- mediate gear was used between t h e pinion gear of t h e s t a r t e r motor and t h e flywheel ring gear.

In l a te r years, t h e in termediate gear was eliminated and t h e pinion gear of t h e s t a r t e r motor moves upward and meshes directly with t h e flywheel ring gear.

Since t h e s tar t ing motor requires a la rge amount of e lect r ica l current, i t is necessary t o have a fully charged ba t t e ry available fo r t h e s tar t ing system. If t h e boat is equipped with several electrical accessories, such as bai t tank with circulating pump, radio, a number of running and accessory lights etc., t h e charging system must be performing properly t o keep t h e ba t t e ry charged.

Charging Circuit Magneto ignition system engines were

manufactured without a generating system installed. The charging circuit was added a f t e r purchase and consists of a generator driven by a belt connected t o t h e flywheel. The flywheel is equipped with a pulley arrangement t o t ransfer flywheel rotation t o t h e generator pulley through t h e belt.

On engines equipped with a ba t t e ry ignition system, an a l ternator is installed. The a l ternator s t a to r is mounted underneath t h e flywheel. The rotor is a t t ached t o t h e inside diameter of t h e flywheel. As t h e flywheel ro ta tes , a current i s generated and feed into t h e charging circuit. Choke Circuit

The choke is ac t ivated by a solenoid. This solenoid a t t r a c t s a plunger t o close t h e choke valves. The solenoid is energized when t h e ignition key is turned t o t h e START position and - the choke button is depressed. When using t h e e lec t r i c choke, t h e manual choke MUST b e in t h e NEUTRAL position.

L a t e model engines a r e equipped with a "FULL ONn choke. Electrical current passes through switch in t h e water jacket. As water temperature in t h e wa te r jacket rises, t h e switch is opened and t h e choke opens, increasing t h e volume of air t o t h e carburetor.

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6- 1 2 ELECTRICAL

Complete service procedures for al l types of chokes a r e given in Chapter 4.

Starting Circuit The s tar t ing circuit consists of a crank-

ing motor and a starter-engaging mechanism. A solenoid is used a s a heavy-duty switch t o carry t h e heavy current from t h e ba t t e ry t o the s t a r t e r motor and sa fe ty switch. The solenoid is ac tua ted by turning t h e ignition key t o t h e START position. On some models, a pushbutton is used t o a c t u a t e t h e solenoid. See Section 6-11 for detailed service procedures on t h e s t a r t- e r motor circuit .

6-8 GENERATOR CHARGING CIRCUIT

A generator is installed a s an accessory on engines equipped with a distributor mag- netor ignition system. The generator has two terminals on the lower end. One terminal is larger than the other and the wires connected have di f ferent s ize connectors t o ensure the proper wire is connected t o the cor rec t terminal.

If several electrical accessories a r e used and t h e engine is ~ p e r a t i n g at idle speed, o r below 1500 ram f ~ r extended periods of t ime, t h e ha t t e ry will not receive adequate current t o remain in serviceable condition.

The ra ted capaci ty of t h e generator i s 10-amps. Therefore, t h e electrical accessory load should not exceed 10-amps o r current will be drawn from the ba t t e ry at a preader r a t e than t h e generator is able t o produce. Such a negstive draw on t h e ha t t e ry will result in a run-down condition and failure sf . t h e ba t t e ry t o provide t h e required current t o t h e s t a r t e r fo r cranking t h e engine.

To calculate t h e amperage draw of a n x c e s s o r y The f d l o w i w simple fcsrrnula may be used: Amps equals v a t t s divided by volts. A m ~ s = -- Watts

tJol ts

The volts wi18 slways be 12. Accessories ~ 1 1 1 usually be eiven in watts . If t h e obso- l e t e reasurernewt of candlepower is used, the^ me c;lndle nower is equal t o approximately cane v a t t . Example: A boat has P U P P ~ P lights requiring %watts; auxiliary liql-sts use 90 watts; 2nd a radio ra ted a t 30- v ~ a t t s .

Amps = 4$ '*Y~tts/12 volts = 4 Amps.

In th is case, if all t h e lights a r e on and t h e radio is being used, t h e to ta l draw on t h e ba t t e ry would be 4 amps. If t h e engine is running at 1500 rpm or higher, and t h e generator circuit is performing properly by charging t h e ba t t e ry with 10 amps, then a n e t positive gain of 6 amps is being recieved by t h e battery.

The ba t t e ry can b e externally charged or t h e engine can be equipped with a generator t o charge t h e ba t t e ry while t h e engine is operating.

A voltage regulator, mounted in a junction box on t h e rear of t h e engine, is connected between t h e generator and t h e bat- te ry t o prevent overcharging of t h e ba t t e ry while t h e engine is operating. The junction box also houses a fuse t o protect t h e charging circuit.

The generator circuit requires at leas t 1500 rpm engine speed t o effect ively charge t h e battery. At this speed, t h e ampere mete r on t h e dash will indicate a positive charge t o t h e battery.

If t h e boat has a twin engine installation, t h e usual pract ice is t o use only one ba t t e ry fo r cranking both units. With such a twin installation, only one engine generator should be used t o charge and maintain t h e ba t t e ry at i t s full amperage rating.

Most mechanics have discovered if both generators of a twin installation a r e connected t o charge t h e bat tery , one seems t o "fight" the other. Instead of having a n improved system, this type of hook-up caus- e s many serious e lect r ica l problems tha t a r e unexplainable. See Page 6-16, for detailed service procedures on the generator circuit.

TROUBLESHOOTING

One of th ree areas, identified as a, b, and c, below, may cause problems in t h e generating circuit. Any one of t h e problems will result in fai lure of t h e system t o provide sufficient current t o maintain t h e bat- te ry at a sa t is factory charge. Remember, t h e generator will only p r ~ d u c e approximately 10 amps s f current. Most ampmete rs have a 20-amp scale. Therefore, i t is only necessary for t h e scale t o register in t h e 10-amp area, while t h e engine is operating ahove 1500 rprn, t o indicate sa t is factory performance

a- The 4-amp or 20-amp fuse in t h e junction box may have burned, opening t h e circuit. If t h e fuse requires replacement, a

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GENERATOR CIRCUIT 6- 13

check should be made immediately, t o de- te rmine why the fuse burned protecting t h e circuit.

b- The voltage regulator may be defective. If t h e regulator has failed, a thorough check of t h e circuit t o determine t h e cause. Simply replacing t h e regulator usually will not solve t h e problem and t h e new regulator may be damaged when t h e engine and gener- a t o r a r e operating.

c- The generator may be defect ive and fail t o produce t h e current necessary t o maintain t h e battery. The problem may simply be worn brushes. Replacement with new brushes may solve the problem. How- ever, if t h e brushes a r e in good condition, and test ing reveals t h e generator must be replaced, t h e conservative mechanic will install a new voltage regulator at t h e s a m e t ime.

CRITICAL WORDS The engine must be operated, in gear, at

speeds in excess of 1500 rpm t o test t h e generator circuit. Theref ore, t h e engine MUST be mounted in a body of wa te r t o prevent a RUNAWAY condition and serious damage t o internal parts , or destruction of t h e unit. NEVER a t t e m p t t o operate t h e

engine above idle speed with a flush a t tachment connected t o t h e lower unit or with t h e engine mounted in a small test tank, such as a fifty-gallon drum.

CAUTIOM: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump,

1- Check t o be sure al l e lect r ica l connections in t h e circuit a r e secure and f r e e of corrosion. Double check t h e b a t t e r y connections and terminals. If t h e terminals a r e badly corroded, the re is no way on th is green e a r t h fo r t h e current produced by t h e generator t o reach t h e ba t t e ry cells. A special wire brush can be purchased at very modest cost t o clean t h e inside of t h e wire connectors. A common wire brush may be used t o clean t h e ba t t e ry terminals. Baking soda and water is a good cleaning agent fo r t h e ba t t e ry surface.

2- Check t h e wiring in t h e circuit fo r broken insulation, or an actual break in t h e line. Disconnect the POSITIVE elect r ica l lead f rom t h e ba t t e ry as a precaution a- gainst an accidental short causing damage t o t h e voltage regulator. Remove t h e iunc- tion box cover. Check t h e condition of t h e 4-amp or 20-amp fuse with a continuity light, o r install a new fuse and check t h e charging circuit again with t h e engine operating. The 4-amp and 20-amp fuses can easily be ttpoppedtl out of thei r retainers in

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6- 14 ELECTRICAL

BATTERY FIELD , ARMATURE

1 REGULATOR

ENGINE GROUND I

v GROUND

TO LOWER MOTOR COVER

STARTER

CONNECTOR

t h e panel of t h e junction box base and replaced a f t e r t h e cover has been removed.

3- Ground the field of t h e generator very QUICKLY and only MOMENTARILY with a jumper wire while t h e engine is operating at approximately 2000 rpm. By MOMENTARILY grounding t h e field, t h e voltage regulator is actually bypassed and t h e generator will "run wild". If t h e a m p m e t e r registers a high reading while t h e generator field is grounded, t h e c i rcui t has a broken wire, or t h e voltage regulator i s defective. If t h e a m p mete r reading does not change while t h e generator f ield is grounded, then t h e indication is a faul ty generator.

Voltage Regulator 1- Disconnect t h e positive lead f rom t h e

ba t t e ry terminal t o prevent an accidenta l shor t causing damage in t h e circuit. Loosen t h e two wingnuts on both sides of t h e junction box cover. These wingnuts a r e "cap- tive" with t h e cover and cannot be completely removed, only released f rom t h e junction box. (This arrangement prevents loss of t h e wingnuts.) Disconnect t h e wires between t h e generator and t h e terminal board in t h e junction box at t h e board, if t h e regulator is t o be replaced.

2- Place t h e junction box cover on i t s back and remove t h e f ive leads t o the voltage regulator. Notice how t h e leads a r e color-coded, as an assist in connecting them correct ly during installation. Remove t h e a t taching hardware securing t h e voltage

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BROWN

regulator t o t h e cover. Remove t h e regulator. Place t h e new regulator in position in t h e junction box cover and secure i t with t h e a t taching hardware. Connect t h e four color-coded wires t o t h e regulator: yellow, f rom the generator armature; blue, f rom t h e generator field; brown, from t h e bat tery; and t h e black is t h e ground wire. A second brown wire is connected t o t h e bot tom of t h e junction box t o allow additional electri- c a l accessories t o be connected. This second wire would not have been disconnected t o remove t h e regulator.

CRITICAL WORDS When a new voltage regulator is instal-

led, t h e generator must be "polarized" BE- FORE t h e cover is installed.

3- "Polarize" t h e new regulator by f i r s t connecting t h e positive lead t o t h e bat tery , and then using a small jumper wire t o make

a MOMENTARY connection between the ba t t e ry terminal and t h e a rmature terminal of the regulator. The generator is now properly "polarized" with t h e new regulator f o r service.

4- Now, disconnect t h e positive ba t t e ry lead again, before installing t h e junction box cover. The f e w moments involved in disconnecting and connecting t h e positive lead at t h e ba t t e ry is well spent. This small task will prevent any possible shor t f rom causing damage t o t h e circuit when working with t h e wires.

5- Install t h e junction box cover t o t h e box base. As t h e cover is moved into place, work t h e wires alongside t h e regulator. Se- cure t h e cover in place with t h e two "cap- tive" wingnuts.

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& 16 ELECTRICAL

CENERATOR SERVICE

1- Disconnect the positive lead at t h e ba t t e ry terminal. Remove t h e hood f rom t h e engine. If t h e engine has a hand s ta r t e r , remove t h e retaining bolts and l i f t off t h e hand s tar ter . Prevent t h e shaf t f rom turning by engaging an open-end wrench with t h e f l a t s on t h e generator shaf t underneath t h e pulley. Now, while continuing t o hold t h e wrench on the shaft , remove t h e nut f rom t h e top of t h e generator pulley.

TERM l NAL

2- Remove t h e generator bel t f rom t h e pulley. Use a screwdriver or o ther similar tool and pry the puller up and f r e e of t h e generator shaft . Hold t h e generator , and at t h e s a m e t i m e remove t h e nuts f rom t h e top of t h e generator support bracket, and t h e generator is f ree .

3- Remove t h e two wires on t h e bottom side of t h e generator. Notice how one generator s tud is smaller than t h e other and t h e e lect r ica l connectors a r e different s izes t o match t h e studs.

4- Remove t h e two nuts f rom t h e wire terminals at t h e bottom of t h e generator. Work out the two white insulators from around t h e studs. Remove t h e two thru- bolts.

5- Remove t h e end c a p f rom t h e generator. After t h e c a p has been removed, t a k e not ice of t h e smali dowel in t h e end of t h e generator. This dowel ensures t h e c a p will

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Testing for a Ground 7- Obtain a test lamp or continuity met-

er. Make con tac t with one probe lead on b e installed correctly when the dowel is t h e a r m a t u r e c o r e and t h e other probe lead

indexed in a matching hole in t h e cap. Pull on the commutator bar. If t h e l amp lights, t h e a rmature and upper c a p out of t h e o r t h e mete r indicates continuity, t h e arma-

frame. t u r e is grounded and MUST be replaced.

ARMATURE TESTING Checking the Commutator Bar 8- Check between or check bar-to-bar

Testing for a Short a s shown in t h e accompanying illustration. The test light should light, or t h e m e t e r '- Position the armature On a growler, should indicate continuity. If t h e commuta- then hold a hacksaw blade over t h e arma- tor fai ls t h e test, t h e a rmature MUST b e t u r e core. Turn t h e growler switch t o t h e

ON position. Slowly r o t a t e t h e armature . If t h e hacksaw blade k b r a t e s , t h e a rmature or commutator has a short. Clean t h e grooves between t h e commutator bars on t h e armature. Perform t h e test again. If t h e hacksaw blade still vibrates during t h e t e s t , t h e a rmature has a short and MUST be replaced.

Field Coil Test for Ground 9- Check t o be sure the f r e e end of t h e

field wire is not grounded t o t h e f r a m e and t h e field insulation is not broken. Using a test l amp or ohmmeter , make con tac t with one probe lead t o t h e ground of t h e generator frame. Make con tac t with t h e other

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6- 1 8 ELECTRICAL

lead t o t h e field terminal. If t h e lamp lights or the ohmmeter indicates continuity, t h e field coils a r e grounded. If t h e location of t h e ground in t h e field coils cannot be determined, or repaired, t h e coils MUST b e replaced.

Armature Terminal Test for Ground 10- Check t o be sure t h e loose end of

t h e a rmature terminal lead of t h e generator is NOT grounded t o t h e frame. Using a test lamp o r ohmmeter, make con tac t with one probe lead t o t h e a rmature terminal of t h e generator. Make con tac t with t h e other probe lead t o a good ground on t h e generator f rame. If t h e test l amp lights or t h e ohmmeter indicates continuity, t h e positive terminal insulation through t h e generator f r a m e is broken down and MUST be replaced.

Positive Brush Test for Ground 11- Using a test lamp or ohmmeter ,

make con tac t with one probe lead t o t h e

positive or insulated brush holder. Make c o n t a c t with t h e o ther probe lead t o a good ground on t h e generator f rame. If t h e l amp lights, or t h e ohmmeter indicates continuity , t h e brush holder is grounded due t o defect ive insulation at t h e f rame.

Field Test 12- Using a test l amp or ohmmeter,

make con tac t with one probe lead t o t h e a r m a t u r e stud. Make con tac t with t h e other probe lead t o t h e a rmature brush. The lamp should l ight or t h e ohmmeter indicate continuity. If this test is not successful, check fo r a poor connection between t h e s tud and t h e brush.


Check t h e ball bearing at t h e end of t h e commutator bar. Verify t h a t t h e bearing turns f r e e with no sign of "rough spots" or binding. Hold t h e a r m a t u r e in one hand and turn t h e upper c a p on t h e shaf t with t h e other hand. The c a p and shaf t should turn f reely with no sign of binding. If e i the r of

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GENERATOR PULLEY

/

/ FLYWHEEL UPPER PULLEY HEAD

ARMATURE

THRU BOLT \

LOWER HEAD

Exploded view of a generator with principle parts identified.

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6-20 ELECTRICAL

CORRECT l NCORRECT Armature segments properly cleaned ( l e f t ) and im-

properly cleaned (right).

these tests a r e not successful, t h e bearing MUST be replaced.

Check t h e amount of brush wear. If t h e brush is worn more than 50% of i t s original size, o r t o within 114" (6.35 mm) of t h e base, i t should be replaced. Replacement of t h e brushes is a simple task. First , remove t h e brush retaining screw, and then remove t h e old brush and install a new brush. Se- cure the new brush in place with t h e retaining screw.

If t h e a rmature commutator requires turning, i t should be turned in a l a the t o ensure accuracy. The local generator shop can perform this task, usually fo r a very reasonable fee. If t h e turning is accomplished by other than generator shop person- nel, t h e following words a r e necessarv. Af- t e r t h e turning, an undercut should b e made. The insulation between t h e commutator bars should be 1-314" (4.44 cm). This undercut must be t h e full width of t h e insulation and f l a t at the bottom. A tr iangular groove is NOT satisfactory. After t h e undercut work is completed t h e slot should b e thoroughly cleaned t o remove any foreign mater ia l , d i r t , or copper dust. Sand t h e commutator LIGHTLY with "00" sandpaper t o remove any slight burrs l e f t from t h e undercutting. After all work has been completed, test t h e unit again, on t h e growler.

DOWEL P IN

ASSEMBLING THE GENERATOR

1- Slide t h e a r m a t u r e into t h e f r a m e and align t h e top a rmature c a p with t h e dowel in t h e frame. Proper alignment is achieved when t h e dowel in t h e f r a m e indexes in to a matching hole in t h e cap. As t h e a rmature is moved into place, pull back on t h e brushes, and work them around t h e commutator bar.

2- Install t h e end c a p down over the studs of t h e field and armature . Check t o be sure t h e dowel in t h e f r a m e has indexed with t h e hole in t h e cap.

3- Install t h e two thru-bolts and secure t h e complete assembly with t h e nuts.

4- Place t h e two bushings over t h e terminal studs of t h e a rmature and field. Se- c u r e t h e bushings in place with t h e washers and proper nuts (one terminal is larger than t h e other).

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GENERATOR CIRCUIT 6-2 1

Testing by Rotating the Armature Performing this test will also "polarizeff

t h e new or rebuilt generator. If this test is not performed, t h e new or rebuilt generator MUST still b e lfpolarizedll following installation. " P o l a r i ~ a t i o n ~ ~ at t h a t t ime is accomplished by f i r s t connecting t h e ba t t e ry t o t h e system in t h e normal manner, and then connecting a jumper lead t o t h e BAT terminal of t h e voltage regulator. Next, MOMENTARILY make con tac t with t h e oth- e r end of t h e jumper lead t o t h e GEN terminal of t h e regulator. The generator is now "polarized" for service.

Return t o t h e bench f o r tesing a f t e r rebuilding t h e generator.

CAUTION: The a rmature will turn rapidly during this test. Therefore, t h e genera- to r MUST be well SECURED before making t h e test t o prevent personal INJURY or damage t o t h e generator.

1- Connect a jumper wire between t h e field terminal and a good ground on t h e case. Connect a second jumper wire between t h e positive ba t t e ry terminal and t h e a rmature stud. MOMENTARILY make contact with t h e negative lead f rom the ba t t e ry t o any good ground on t h e generator. The

generator should r o t a t e rapidly. If t h e genera to r fai ls t o rota te , t h e generator must be disassembled again and the service work carefully checked. Sorry about tha t , but some phase of the rebuild task was not performed properly.

2- Check t o b e sure t h e Woodruff key is in place in t h e generator shaft . Install t h e generator into t h e bracket and at t h e same t i m e slide t h e pulley onto t h e a rmature shaf t with t h e slot in the pulley indexed with t h e Woodruff key. Secure t h e genera- to r in place with the a t taching hardware,

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6-22 ELECTRICAL

but DO NOT t ighten t h e nuts on t h e genera- to r thru-bolts a t this t ime.

3- Install t h e drive belt around t h e pulley on the bottom side of t h e flywheel and onto t h e generator pulley. Install t h e lockwasher and nut t o secure the generator pulley in place. Hold t h e genera.tor shaf t f rom turning with an men-wrench on t h e f l a t s of t h e shaf t underneath t h e pulley.

4- Adjust tension on t h e generator pulley by pulling t h e generator away f rom t h e engine, and then tightening t h e thru-bolt nuts securing t h e generator in t h e bracket. The pulley is properly adjusted when i t may be depressed approximately 1/4" (6.35 mm) a.t a ooint mid-way between t h e two pulleys. Install t h e hand s ta r t e r , if one is used.

6-9 ALTERNATOR CHARGING CIRCUIT

An al ternator system, reference f unc- tional diagram illustration "A", is installed on engines equipped with a ba t t e ry or C D ignition system. The system replaces the

current drained from t h e ba t t e ry t o s t a r t and opera te t h e engine.

On engines equibped with ba t t e ry ignition systems, a 15 t o 20-amp al ternator is installed. On engines with t h e C D ignition system, t h e a l ternator is ra ted at approximately 2 t o 3-amps above t h e requirements f o r operating the engine. Therefore, any accessories added t o t h e engine or boat would require a higher output al ternator. This higher output is usually accomplished through t h e installation of an a l ternator kit available f rom t h e local OMC dealer.

The a l ternator consists of a s ta to r mounted underneath t h e flywheel, a rotor a t t ached t o t h e inside diameter of t h e flywheel, and a regulator on t h e larger output al ternators. A set of positive and negative diodes is installed in t h e system t o change t h e al ternating current t o d i rect (dc) current. The necessary wiring t i e s t h e system together.

Under normal operating conditions, very f e w problems a r e encountered with t h e al- te rna to r system. The most prevalent problem is connecting t h e ba t t e ry backwards. Such action will damage the diodes in t h e svstern. The red cable from t h e s t a r t e r motor solenoid terminal must be connected t o t h e positive ba t t e ry terminal. The black cable from engine ground must be connected t o t h e negative ba t t e ry terminal. Another problem a rea is t h e use of a charging system with t h e ba t t e ry disconnected. This prac- t i c e will damage the diodes or t h e voltage regulator.

OPERATION

Immediately a f t e r engine s t a r t , t h e ammete r on t h e dash may indicate a full charging r a t e equal t o t h e capaci ty of t h e al ternator. As engine operation continues, t h e r a t e of charge will fa l l off , depending on t h e number of e lect r ica l accessories in use. Any high demand on t h e ba t t e ry will result in an increase in -the charging r a t e until t h e ba t t e ry approaches a full or nearly full state of charge. The a l ternator system contains two dist inct circuits , t h e f ield circuit and t h e charging circuit.

Field Circuit When t h e ignition switch is turned passed

the ON position t o the START position, the field circuit is closed t o cause a current

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ALTERNATOR CIRCUIT 6-23

flow from t h e positive pole of t h e ba t t e ry directly t o and through t h e field coils; on through t h e transistor; then through a ground return t o t h e negative pole of t h e bat tery t o complete t h e circuit. The ignition switch is spring loaded for start ing.

Once t h e engine s tar ts , t h e key will return t o t h e O N position and remain the re while t h e engine is operating. An indicator l ight bridges t h e field circuit and glows GREEN when t h e key is s e t t o t h e ON position. This l ight will continue t o glow until t h e switch is turned t o t h e OFF position when t h e engine is shut down.

Bear-in-mind, ba t t e ry current continues flowing through t h e field circuit as long as t h e ignition switch is in t h e ON position. This is t r u e regardless of whether t h e engine is operating or not. Therefore, if t h e swi tch should b e accidently turned t o or l e f t in t h e ON position, t h e ba t t e ry will discharge itself through t h e field and ignition circuits and continue doing so until t h e ba t t e ry is completely discharged or, until t h e ignition switch is turned to t h e OFF position.

Charging Circuit When t h e field coil is energized, a s just

described, t h e s t a to r core becomes magnetized. The upper row of pole segments assumes a NORTH polarity and t h e lower row of segments a SOUTH polarity.

A magnet ic field i s built-up around t h e poles, shifting through t h e surrounding atmosphere, f rom north t o south poles. Now, t h e irregularly shaped rotor a t t ached t o and revolving with t h e flywheel around t h e sta- t o r poles, passes through in te rmi t t en t a reas of variable magnet ic field density. I t does s o in such a manner as t o cause a current surge traveling in one direction t o be induced in every other s t a t o r coil. A t t h e next instant , a surge traveling in t h e oppo- s i t e direction, is induced in t h e oppositely wound intervening coils as i t en te r s and passes through t h e adjacent field, creat ing alternating (ac) current.

The s ta to r includes 36 s ta to r coils. Therefore, t h e current surges a l ternate ly 36 t imes per EACH revolution of t h e flywheel, which amounts t o 36,000 such reversals per each 1000 motor rpm. At 4500 engine rpm, t h e r a t e is 162,000 a l ternat ing surges. This amount of current cannot be employed t o charge t h e ba t t e ry but must be f i rs t recti- fied or changed t o d i rec t (dc) current. This

I I I 1 1 1

I I

I I REGULATOR I

I

I ' I I

I I

j IONlTlON SAFTEY

I SWITCH '

I

I DASHBOARC I INSTALLATIOF I

/ lGNiTlON SWITCH

1 9 6 79 Schematic diagram of engine with flywheel alternator.

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6-24 ELECTRICAL

function is accomplished by t h e diodes installed in series with t h e charging circuit . Two diodes a r e of positive polarity and two a r e negative. The diodes permit voltage t o pass in one direction and prevent passage in t h e o ~ p o s i t e direction.

On engines equipped with a higher output a l ternator , a transistorized voltage regula- t o r is installed in series with t h e ba t t e ry field circuit. This regulator confines a l ternator voltage rise t o within predetermined l imits by automatically regulating intensity of t h e s t a to r field.

TROUBLESHOOTING

The following a l ternator troubleshooting numbered procedures a r e divided in to t w o groups. The f i rs t covers an a l ternator installed on an engine equipped with a battery- type ignition system and a 20-amp alternator. The second set of procedures covers engines with CD ignition.

BEFORE assuming t h e a l ternator may b e at faul t , check all wiring and connections associated with t h e a l ternator circuit. Frayed wires, loose connections, corroded terminals, or a defect ive bat tery , will cause problems in the a l ternator circuit. The ba t t e ry must be FULLY charged, t h e terminals clean, t h e cable connections t ight, and t h e ba t t e ry polarity properly connected be- f o r e any troubleshooting work is commenced

on t h e a l ternator circuit . Proper polari ty means the cor rec t cables a r e connected t o t h e positive and negative ba t t e ry terminals. One end of t h e positive (red) cable should b e connected t o t h e positive ba t t e ry terminal and the other end t o the s t a r t e r motor solenoid terminal. One &nd of t h e negative (black) cable should be connected t o the negative ba t t e ry terminal and t h e other end t o a good ground on t h e engine.

Fuse Check Check t h e heavy-duty 60-amp fuse in t h e

junction box. On early model engines, th is fuse is located in t h e junction box on the bottom side of t h e bar t o which t h e diodes a r e a t tached, reference illustration "B".

On la ter model engines th is fuse is locat- e d underneath t h e small black cover of t h e diodes installed on t h e flywheel guard cover, reference illustration "Cn.

The fuse does not appear as a normal fuse. The fuse is square with a piece of meta l on t h e back side and another on t h e front. The metal pieces a r e separated by a heavy insulating material . A narrow piece of metal connects t h e f ront and back metal strips. I t is th is small connecting piece of metal t h a t will burn through and render t h e fuse defective. -

All Alternator Systems Check t o be sure all e lect r ica l accesso-

ries a r e turned OFF, such as radio, lights, bait pump, blower, etc. Turn t h e ignition switch t o t h e ON position several t imes and observe the needle of t h e ammete r on the dash and t h e indicator light (if one is installed). A slight amount of needle movement t o t h e negative side should be observed each

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t i m e t h e switch is moved t o t h e O N position, and t h e light should come on. If needle movement is t o t h e positive side, t h e battery or some other component is connected in reverse polarity. A considerable amount of needle movement t o t h e negative side indicates a short some place in t h e electrical or ignition systems. Such a shor t would prevent t h e a l ternator from overcoming t h e drain on t h e battery. If the re is no needle movement, check all wiring and terminal connections t o be sure they a r e in good condition.

6-10 ALTERNATORS WITH BATTERY IGNITION MODELS 196 1 THRU 1967

Voltage Regulator Check 1- Mount t h e engine in an adequate s ize

test tank or in a body of water. Remove t h e junction box cover at the rear of t h e boat. S ta r t t h e engine and allow i t t o warm t o operating t empera tu re at 500 rpm.

CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just f ive seconds without water will damage the water pump.

Increase engine speed t o approximately 1500 rpm. While t h e engine is running, use a screwdriver and ground t h e field terminal at t h e voltage regulator. Grounding t h e field terminal effectively removes t h e voltage regulator from t h e a1 ternator circuit. Ob- serve t h e a m m e t e r on t h e dash. A high

positive reading indicates a defect ive vol- t a g e regulator. A low, or negative, reading indicates problems in t h e s ta tor , wiring, or diodes. Unless you have considerable experience with voltage regulator repair work, simply replace t h e regulator. The voltage regulator is secured on rubber mounts and therefore is allowed t o move t o compensate for engine vibration. There- fore , TAKE CARE when installing t h e regula tor and the junction box cover t o allow slack in t h e wires t o permit t h e regulator t o move.

If t h e ammete r on the dash does not move while t h e engine is running and t h e field terminal is grounded, shut t h e engine down and proceed with t h e testing.

Diode Check A diode is simply an electrical check

valve, allowing current t o flow in one direction but preventing i t from flowing in t h e opposite direction. Two positive diodes and two negative diodes a r e installed on all a1 ternator circuits.

2- Disconnect t h e ba t t e ry f rom t h e system. On early model engines, disconnect t h e four diode leads f rom t h e junction box, two positive and two negative.

3- On l a t e r models, remove t h e cover on t h e flywheel guard t o expose t h e diodes. Connect one lead of an ohmmeter t o t h e ground terminal of t h e junction box and t h e o ther lead t o t h e terminal of t h e diode t o be tested. Observe t h e ohmmeter. Reverse t h e leads of t h e ohmmeter. Again observe t h e ohmmeter. Continuity should be indi- c a t e d with t h e leads connected one way and no continuity when connected in reverse. If continuity is indicated in both directions,

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6-26 ELECTRICAL

t h e diode is defect ive and must be replaced. If continuity is not indicated in one direction, t h e diode is defective.

Check t h e other th ree diodes in t h e s a m e manner . Stator Field Winding Checks SPECIAL WORDS

For t h e following Steps 3, 4, 5, and 6, t h e s t a to r has been removed ONLY f o r photographic clari ty, t o show t h e e lect r ica l connections under t h e stator.

4- Disconnect t h e quick-disconnect plug on t h e s tarboard side of t h e engine just behind the s t a r t e r motor. This plug connects t h e wires f rom t h e s t a to r t o t h e wires t o engine wiring harness. This connector will contain a red and blue wire f rom t h e s ta tor . Obtain an ohmmeter and set t h e reading for t h e high scale. Connect one lead of t h e mete r t o a good ground on t h e engine and t h e other lead t o e i ther t h e blue o r t h e red wire going t o the stator. The

m e t e r should indicate NO continuity (an infinite reading). If continuity is indicated (less than 5000 ohms), t h e s t a to r is grounded and should be replaced.

5- Se t t h e ohmmeter t o t h e low scale. Connect mete r leads t o t h e red and blue s t a t o r field leads. The m e t e r reading should be f rom 1.69 ohms t o 3.14 ohms. A too high reading indicates an open (circuit) winding. A too low reading indicates a shorted field winding. In e i the r case, t h e s t a to r is defec- t ive and must be replaced.

Stator Winding Tests 6- Connect the two halves of t h e quick-

disconnect t h a t were separated f o r Steps 4 and 5. Disconnect t h e yellow leads t o t h e stator. Se t t h e ohmmeter se lector t o t h e high ohm scale. Leave one m e t e r lead connected t o ground and connect t h e other

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lead t o ei ther yellow s ta to r winding leads from t h e stator. Observe t h e ohmmeter. Connect t h e mete r lead t o t h e o ther yellow wire and again observe t h e meter . The mete r should indicate NO continuity (an infinite reading) during t h e e i ther test. If continuity is indicated (less than 5000 ohms) during e i ther t e s t , t h e s t a to r is defect ive and must b e replaced.

7- Set the mete r selector t o t h e low ohm scale. Connect t h e mete r leads t o t h e yellow leads t o the stator. Observe t h e m e t e r reading. If less than 1 ohm is indicated, t h e s t a to r is satisfactory. A higher than 1 ohm reading indicates a broken (open) winding and t h e s t a to r must b e replaced.

6-81 ALTERNATOR WITH CD IGNITION 100 HP 1967 ALL CD IGNITION 1%8 TO 1972

Most engines covered in this sect ion were manufactured and distributed with 9- a m p a1 ternators as standard fac to ry equipment. The one exception is the 65 hp 1972 model which had a 6-amp alternator. How- ever , due t o the addition of accessories, these units may have a 15-amp a l t e rna to r installed. If t h e higher ra ted a l ternator is used, a voltage regulator must be installed.

TROUBLESHOOTING

The following troubleshooting procedures give detailed s teps fo r checking t h e voltage regulator, a l ternator output, t h e rectif ier , and t h e stator.

BEFORE assuming t h e a l ternator may be at fault , check all-wiring and connections

associated with t h e a l ternator circuit. Frayed wires, loose connections, corroded terminals, o r a defect ive bat tery , will cause problems in t h e a l ternator circuit. The ba t t e ry must be FULLY charged, t h e terminals clean, t h e cable connections t ight, and t h e ba t t e ry polarity properly connected, be- f o r e any troubleshooting work is commenced on t h e a l ternator circuit. Proper polarity means t h e cor rec t cables a r e connected t o t h e positive and negative ba t t e ry terminals. One end of t h e positive (red) cable should b e connected t o t h e positive ba t t e ry terminal and t h e other end t o t h e s t a r t e r motor solenoid terminal. One end of t h e negative (black) cable should b e connected t o t h e negative ba t t e ry terminal and t h e o ther end t o a good ground on t h e engine.

Voltage Regulator Check A voltage regulator is only installed with

a 15-amp al ternator following engine purchase a s an accessory. I t is not a fac to ry i t em nor is i t original equipment. The voltage regulator installed with a C D ignition system is a solid state type. This means, if the regulator is proven t o be defective, i t must b e discarded, i t cannot b e repaired. Theref ore, if t h e following checks indicate t h e voltage regulator is defective, t h e only remedy t o res tore t h e circuit t o sa t is factory performance is t o replace t h e regulator.

If t h e regulator is defective, i t may allow too much voltage t o pass through, o r i t may prevent sufficient voltage f rom passing t o m e e t t h e engine and accessory demands t o keep t h e ba t t e ry fully charged.

Continually adding water t o t h e ba t t e ry at an unreasonable frequency, could b e an indication t h e voltage regulator is allowing excessive voltage t o pass through t o t h e bat tery . If t h e ba t t e ry cannot be maintain- e d at a sat is factory charge, a defect ive regulator could be one of several i t ems t o blame.

1- Mount t h e engine in a n adequate size t e s t tank or in a body of water. If a n a m m e t e r is not installed on t h e dash, disconnect t h e red wire on t h e positive side of t h e s t a r t e r solenoid. Connect one a m m e t e r lead t o this red wire and t h e o ther m e t e r lead t o t h e positive terminal of t h e s t a r t e r solenoid. The m e t e r is now in ser ies with t h e a l ternator circuit . S t a r t t h e engine and allow i t t o warm t o operating t empera tu re at 500 rpm.

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6-28 ELECTRICAL

AMMETER /r\

/ BATTERY ' 1 9 6 8 0

(3


Increase engine speed t o approximately 1500 rpm. Observe t h e ammete r on t h e dash or t h e m e t e r connected in to t h e circuit. The ammete r should indicate maximum output fo r t h e a l ternator rating, then gradually fal l back. If the ammete r fa i ls t o indicate t h e required current, shut down t h e engine and disconnect t h e voltage regulator from t h e circuit , e i ther at t h e quick-discon- n e c t at t h e rear of the engine, or from t h e terminal board. Again, s t a r t and opera te t h e engine a t approximately 1500 rpm and observe t h e ammeter . If t h e m e t e r indicate.. adequate current passing through, t h e voltage regulator is defect ive and must b e replaced. If the ammete r still fa i ls t o indicate adequate current, proceed with test ing other components in t h e system.

IGNITION SWITCH.

A1 ternator Output Check 2- Connect one lead of a n ac vol tmeter

t o a good ground on t h e engine. S t a r t t h e engine.

VOLTMETER

GROUND

TERMINAL BLOCK

RECTIFIER OR CONNECTOR

19 6.81 ENGINE GROUND

CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run t o prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump.

MOMENTARILY make con tac t with t h e o ther mete r lead t o f i r s t one of t h e yellow leads f rom t h e s t a to r and then t o t h e o ther yellow lead. This momentary con tac t will be made t o t h e yellow leads inside t h e quick-disconnect f i t t ing, or at t h e terminal board, depending on t h e model engine being serviced. The mete r should indicate 12- volts when t h e m e t e r con tac t is made t o e i the r yellow lead. If t h e mete r fai ls t o indicate 12-volts, t h e rect i f ier or t h e s t a t o r mav be defective. Continue with t h e testing.

Rectifier Checks Four checks must b e performed on t h e

rectif ier t o determine if i t is acceptable f o r fu r the r service. Two tests a r e performed for t h e negative diodes and two for t h e positive diodes.

3- Disconnect both t h e positive and neg- a t ive cables f rom t h e ba t t e ry terminals. Obtain an ohmmeter and set t h e se lector t o t h e high ohm scale. Disconnect t h e rectifi- e r leads at t h e terminal board. (If a terminal board is not used, disconnect t h e rectifi- e r leads at the connector.) Connect one

GROUND

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ohmmeter lead t o a good ground on t h e rect i f ier and the other lead t o one of t h e yellow leads. Observe t h e mete r reading. Reverse the connections and again observe t h e meter. The m e t e r should indicate continuity in one direction but not in the other. Therefore, if a reading is obtained in both directions, o r if a reading is not obtained in one direction, t h e diode in t h e rectif ier is defect ive and t h e rect i f ier must be replaced. Repeat t h e test fo r t h e other yellow wire. If t h e test fails, t h e other diode is defective and t h e rectif ier must be replaced.

4- Connect one ohmmeter lead t o one of t h e yellow leads from t h e rect i f ier and t h e other lead t o t h e red or purple wire. Ob- se rve t h e mete r reading. Reverse t h e connections and again observe t h e meter . The mete r should indicate continuity in only one direction. If t h e test fails, t h e diode in t h e rect i f ier is defect ive and t h e rect i f ier must be replaced. Leave one m e t e r lead connect- e d t o t h e red wire and connect t h e other mete r lead t o t h e other yellow wire. Ob- se rve the mete r reading. If continuity is observed in both directions or not in e i the r direction, t h e diode in t h e rect i f ier is defec- t ive and t h e rectif ier must be replaced.

Q YELLOW /I

RECT I FLER >

Stator Check 5- Check t o be sure both cables a r e

disconnected f rom t h e bat tery . Separate t h e quick-disconnect f rom t h e s t a to r leads. Obtain an ohmmeter and set t h e selector t o t h e low ohm scale. Connect t h e mete r leads t o t h e two yellow leads going t o t h e s ta tor . The mete r should indicate a s follows: 9- a m p a l t e rna to r -- 0.75 + 0.2 ohms; 15-amp al ternator -- 0.4 - + 0.1 oh%.

SPECIAL WORDS The 15-amp al ternator installation has a

voltage regulator, t h e 9-amp unit does not. Therefore, t h e a l ternator output rat ing can quickly be determined.

If the reading is not a s indicated, t h e s t a to r is defect ive and must be replaced.

6- Set t h e ohmmeter selector t o t h e high ohm scale. Connect one m e t e r lead t o a good ground on t h e engine and t h e other lead t o one of t h e yellow wires going t o t h e s ta tor . The mete r should indicate no continuity. If continuity is indicated, t h e s t a to r is defect ive and must b e replaced.

YELLOW OR YELLOWEFEY

F

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6-30 ELECTRICAL

Clipper Circuit Check The clipper c i rcui t protects t h e CD igni-

tion system against an in te rmi t t en t ba t t e ry current , o r a sudden surge of current f rom t h e alternator.

The clipper circuit must be checked if t h e bat tery suddenly went dead, t h e GD amplifier became inoperative, or if t h e battery current has f luctuated or been inter- rupted.

7- To check t h e clipper c i rcui t properly, a shifting diode, OMC P a r t No. 383840, and an ohmmeter a r e required. The diode i s used t o determine which mete r lead is t h e ohmmeter case lead. Connect t h e purple and green lead from the diode t o one of t h e ohmmeter leads. Connect t h e vellow lead t o the other mete r lead. If t h e mete r indicates zero or has a very low reading, t h e t e s t lead connected t o t h e yellow diode lead is t h e case lead. If t h e mete r has a high reading, t h e meter lead connected t o t h e purple and green diode leads is t h e case lead. Identify t h e case lead with a tag or piece of tape.

8- Disconnect the clipper circuit from t h e engine. The t es t s will be made on t h e work bench. Early model clipper circuits had th ree wires, two yellow and one ~ u r p l e

wire. Later c i rcui ts had a fourth wire, black, for a ground wire. The following t es t s a r e identical excep t for grounding.

Momentarily ground the purple wire t o the case t o discharge any cur ren t in the clipper circuit.

Connect t h e case t e s t lead t o the ground wire of t h e clipper c i rcui t or directly t o the case. Connect t h e other t e s t lead t o one of the yellow wires.

The mete r should indicate a t leas t 300 ohms. If the reading is lower than 300 ohms, the clipper circuit must be replaced.

9- Momentarily ground the purple wire t o the case t o discharge any cur ren t in the clipper circuit. Connect the mete r c a s e wire t o a ground wire of the clipper circuit. Connect the other meter lead t o the yellow wire with the gray stripe. If the mete r indicates less than 300 ohms, the clipper circuit must be replaced.

- - CASE LEAD

- - CASE LEAD

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STARTER MOTOR 6-31

- CASE LEAD

10- Momentarily ground t h e purple wire t o t h e case t o discharge any current in t h e clipper circuit. Connect t h e mete r case lead t o t h e ground wire of t h e clipper cir- cui t and t h e other mete r lead t o t h e purple wire. If t h e m e t e r indicates more than 300 ohms, proceed t o the next test . If t h e reading is less than 300 ohms, or if t h e needle moves toward zero and then returns t o infinite ohms, t h e clipper circuit is defec t ive and must be replaced.

11- Momentarily ground t h e purple wire t o t h e case t o discharge any current in t h e clipper circuit. Connect t h e m e t e r case wire t o t h e purple wire and t h e o ther lead t o t h e ground wire of t h e clipper circuit . If t h e needle moves towards ze ro and returns t o infinite ohms, t h e clipper circuit is satisfactory. If t h e needle fai ls t o move or moves t o ze ro and remains at zero, t h e clipper circuit is defective and must be replaced.

6-12 CHOKE CIRCUIT SERVICE

This short section provides instructions t o test t h e choke circuit. If t h e sys tem fails t h e test, t h e a t taching hardware can be removed and t h e choke assembly replaced.

Choke Circuit Testing The choke circuit may be quickly t e s ted

t o determine if i t is functioning properly as follows:

,z:-----T t:l h$'

R h

a- Obtain an ohmmeter. b- Connect t h e black mete r lead t o a n

unpainted or ti on of t h e engine block for a good ground.

c- Connect t h e red mete r lead t o t h e choke terminal.

d- Test t h e circuit using t h e R x l scale of t h e ohmmeter. A sat is factory reading is approximately 3 ohms.

e- After t h e t e s t is completed, check t o be sure t h e choke plunger i s pulled in to t h e choke solenoid.

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION

As t h e name implies, t h e sole purpose of t h e s t a r t e r motor c i rcui t is t o control operat ion of t h e s t a r t e r motor t o crank the engine until t h e engine is operating. The c i rcui t includes a solenoid or magnet ic switch t o connect or disconnect t h e s t a r t e r f rom t h e battery. The operator controls t h e switch with a pushbutton o r key switch.

A cu tou t switch is installed in t h e system t o prevent s tar t ing t h e engine if t h e th ro t t l e is advanced too far , beyond idle speed. When t h e th ro t t l e is advanced, t h e s t a r t e r solenoid is not grounded and the s t a r t e r motor will not ro ta te .

Proper test meter hookup for testing the choke circuit.

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6-32 ELECTRICAL

STARTER MOTOR DESCRIPTION

Delco-Remy, Autolite, and Prestoli te, s t a r t e r motors a r e used on t h e engines covered in this manual. Any one of t h e t h r e e may be installed on t h e engine. The ear ly model s t a r t e r s (especially the Delco- Remy) were shorter and just a bit less powerful than the l a t e r models. If a re-

placement unit must be purchased, any one of t h e th ree may be obtained and installed. The recommendation is t o spend a f e w dol- la r s more for the longer, more powerful unit. One more word: If a long s t a r t e r motor is replacing the shor t model, a n additional bracket MUST be bought and installed on t h e lower end of t h e s t a r t e r .

Marine s t a r t e r motors a r e very similar in construction and operation t o the units used in t h e automotive industry. Some marine s t a r t e r motors use t h e inertia- type drive assembly. This type assembly is mounted on an a rmature shaf t with external spiral splines which m a t e with t h e internal

Removing a starter motor from the starboard side of a V 4 engine.

Tvwical starter motor installation on the port side of a thr&e-cylinder engine.

STARTER SOLENOID

1

STARTER n

STARTER GROUND = - SAFTEY SWITCH

\ KEY SWITCH GROUND

Functional diagram to show current flow when the key switch is turned to the START position.

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STARTER MOTOR 6-33

splines of t h e drive assembly. Until about 1967 marine s t a r t e r motors had a splined gear t h a t meshed with an in termediate gear which in turn meshed with t h e Bendix mechanism.

The s t a r t e r motor is a series wound e lec t r i c motor which draws a heavy current f rom t h e battery. I t i s designed t o be. used only fo r short periods of t ime t o crank t h e ennine fo r starting. To prevent overheat in^ t h e motor, cranking should not be continued f o r more than 30-seconds without allowing t h e motor t o cool for at leas t th ree minutes. Actually, th is t i m e can be spent in making preliminary checks t o determine why t h e engine fa i ls t o s t a r t .

Most s t a r t e r motors opera te in much t h e same manner and t h e service work involved in rest or in^ a defective unit t o service is almost identical. Theref ore, t h e inf orma- t ion in this chapter i s grouped together for t h e major components of t h e s t a r t e r under separa te headings. Differences, where they

"bccur, between t h e various manufacturers, a r e clearly indicated.

Theory of Operation With one t y p e of Bendix drive, power is

t ransmit ted f rom t h e s t a r t e r motor t o t h e engine flywheel directly through t h e Bendix drive. This drive has a pinion gear mounted on screw threads. When t h e motor is operated, t h e pinion gear moves up t o mesh with t h e t e e t h on t h e flywheel ring gear.

On another type of drive gear, t h e pinion gear and shaf t a r e mounted above a powerhead bracket and t h e s t a r t e r motor is mounted below. The s t a r t e r motor has a small gear intalled o n t h e a rmature shaf t which meshes with a much larger gear on t h e lower end of t h e drive gear assembly. This difference in gear sizes gives t h e arrangement a much grea te r mechanical advantage (power) than t h e other model. The pinion gear of t h e drive gear assembly then moves upward and the drive gear meshes with t h e t ee th of t h e flywheel ring gear.

When t h e engine s ta r t s , t h e pinion gear is driven fas te r than t h e shaf t , and as a result, i t screws ou t of mesh with t h e flywheel. A rubber cushion is built into t h e Bendix drive t o absorb the shock when t h e pinion meshes with t h e flywheel ring gear. The par ts of the drive MUST be properly assembled fo r ef f ic ient operation. If t h e drive is removed for cleaning, TAKE CARE

generating circuit ( l e f t ) and the starter motor circuit (right). These meters do not require any wire connections. A reading will be obtained by simply placing the meter on the line.

t o assemble t h e par ts as shown in t h e accompanying illustration. If the screw shaf t assembly is reversed, i t will s t r ike t h e splines and t h e rubber cushion will not absorb t h e shock.

The sound of t h e motor during cranking is a good indication of whether t h e s t a r t e r motor is operating properly or not. Natural- ly, t empera tu re conditions will a f f e c t t h e speed at which t h e s t a r t e r motor is ab le t o crank t h e engine. The speed of cranking a cold engine will be much slower than when cranking a warm engine. An experienced operator will learn t o recognize t h e favorable sounds of t h e cranking engine under various conditions.

Faulty Symptoms If t h e s t a r t e r spins, but fa i ls t o crank t h e

ennine, t h e cause is usually a corroded o r gummy Bendix drive. The drive should be removed, cleaned, and given an inspection.

If t h e s t a r t e r motor cranks t h e engine too slowly, t h e following a r e possible causes and the correct ive actions tha t may be taken:

a- Bat tery charge is low. Charge t h e ba t t e ry t o full capacity. b- High resistance connections at the bat tery , solenoid, o r motor. Clean and t ighten all connections. c- Undersize ba t t e ry cables. Replace cables with sufficient size. d- Battery cables too long. Relocate t h e ba t t e ry t o shorten the run t o the s t a r t e r solenoid.

Maintenance The s t a r t e r motor does not require peri-

odic maintenance or lubrication EXCEPT just 'a drop of light-weight oil on t h e s t a r t e r shaf t t o ease movement of t h e Bendix drive. If t h e motor fai ls t o perform properly, t h e

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6-34 ELECTR l CAL

checks outlined in t h e previous paragraph should b e performed.

The frequency of s t a r t s governs how of ten t h e motor should be removed and reconditioned. The manufacturer recom- mends removal and reconditioning every 1000 hours.

Naturally, t h e motor will have t o be removed if t h e correct ive actions outlined under Faulty Symptoms above, does not re- s to re t h e motor t o satisfactory operation.

STARTER MOTOR TROUBLESHOOTING

Before wasting too much t i m e troubleshooting t h e s t a r t e r circuit , t h e following checks should be made. Many t imes, t h e problem will b e corrected.

a- Bat tery fully charged. b- Throt t le advanced too f a r (beyond f a s t idle speed). c- All electrical connections clean and tight. d- Wiring in good condition, insulation not worn or frayed. e- One of t h e cutout switches may be defective. Two more a reas may cause t h e engine t o

turn over slowly even though the s t a r t e r motor circuit is in excellent condition: A t ight or "frozen" engine; and, water in t h e lower unit causing t h e bearings t o t ighten up. The following troubleshooting procedures a r e presented in a logical sequence, with the most common and easily corrected

Typical Bendix spring arrangement on a starter motor. A small amount of oil on the shaft in the spring area will prolong satisfactory operation.

BATTERY La..

SWITCH

GROUND

19.6.86

Functional diagram of a starter motor solenoid. Notice the separate terminal for a ground wire. This solenoid is NOT grounded through the mounting bracket.

areas l isted f i r s t in each problem area. The connection number refers t o t h e numbered positions in t h e accompanying illustrations.

Perform the following quick checks and correct ive actions for following problems:

TESTING

FIRST THESE WORDS The s t a r t e r solenoid is actually nothing

more than a switch between t h e ba t t e ry and t h e s t a r t e r motor. Several types of solenoids a r e used and many appear similar. NEVER a t t e m p t t o use an automotive- type solenoid in a marine installation. Such prac- t i c e will lead t o more problems than c a n be

BATTERY - ST~RTER Functional diagram of a ffslave-typeff starter motor

solenoid used on four-cycle engine installations. This solenoid CANNOT be used on a two-cycle engine.

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STARTER MOTOR 6-35

EXTERNAL GROUND

Functional diagrarn of a typical two-cycle outboard engine starter motor solenoid. Notice that the right- hand small terminal is connected to ground or a safety switch. The unit is NOT grounded through the mounting bracket.

imagined. An automotive- type solenoid has a completely different internal wiring circuit. If such a solenoid is connected in to t h e s t a r t e r system, and t h e sys tem is ac t i- vated, current will be directed t o ground. The wires will b e burned and the cu tou t switch will be burned and rendered useless. 'Therefore, when installing replacement par ts in t h e s t a r t e r or o ther circuits on a marine installation, always t ake t i m e t o obtain par ts f rom a MARINE out le t t o ensure proper service and t o prevent damage t o other expensive components.

SAFETY WORD Before making any test of t h e cranking

system, disconnect t h e spark plug leads at t h e spark plugs t o prevent t h e engine f rom possibly s tar t ing during t h e test and causing personal injury.

The following tests a r e t o be performed according t o t h e faul ty condition described. The numbers referenced in t h e s teps a r e correlated with numbers on t h e accompanying circuit diagram on Page 6-34 t o identify exact ly where t h e connection or test is t o b e made.

Starter Motor Turns Slowly a- Battery charge is low. Charge t h e

ba t t e ry t o full capacity. b- Electrical connections corroded or

loose. Clean and tighten. c- Defective s t a r t e r motor. Perform an

a m p draw test. Lay an a m p draw-gauge on t h e cable leading t o t h e s t a r t e r motor No. 5. Turn t h e key t o t h e START position and a t t e m p t t o crank t h e engine. If t h e gauge i ~ d i c a t e s an excessive amperage draw, t h e s t a r t e r motor MUST be replaced o r rebuilt.

Starter Motor Fails To Rotate Voltage Check

a- Check t h e voltage at No. 2, t h e bat- te ry and ground.

b- If satisfactory voltage is indicated at t h e bat tery , check t h e voltage at No. 3, t h e positive side of t h e s t a r t e r solenoid. Weak, or no voltage at th i s point indicates corrod- e d ba t t e ry terminals, poor connection at t h e solenoid, or defect ive wiring between t h e ba t t e ry and t h e solenoid.

c- Test t h e voltage at No. 4, t h e key. A full 12-volt reading should be registered at t h e key. Weak or no voltage at t h e key indicates a poor connection at t h e solenoid, or a broken wire between t h e s t a r t e r solenoid and t h e key.

d- If sa t is factory voltage is indicated during Steps a, b, and c, connect a volt- mete r at No. 5 and ground, and then turn t h e key switch t o t h e START position. If 12-volts is registered at No. 5 and t h e s t a r t- e r still fai ls t o operate , t h e s t a r t e r is defec- +ive and requires service. If voltage is MOT present at No. 5, proceed t o t h e next section, Testing S t a r t e r Solenoid.

Testing Starter Solenoid a- Remove t h e heavy s t a r t e r cable at

No. 5 , at t h e s tar ter . This cable MUST b e disconnected prior t o performing this test t o

Starter motor mounted on the port side using a separate drive gear.

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6-36 ELECTRICAL

prevent t h e s t a r t e r motor from turning and cranking t h e engine. Connect a vol tmeter t o No. 6 ( the s t a r t e r solenoid), and ground. Turn t h e key t o the START position. The mete r should indicate 12-volts. If voltage is not present at No. 6, t h e key switch is defective, or t h e wire is broken between t h e key switch and t h e s t a r t e r solenoid.

b- If voltage is present at No. 6, connect a voltmeter at No. 3 and t o No. 7. Connect one end of a jumper wire t o No. 2, t h e positive terminal of t h e ba t t e ry and MO- MENTARILY make con tac t with t h e o ther end at No. 6, t h e s t a r t e r solenoid. If voltage is indicated through t h e s t a r t e r solenoid, t h e solenoid is satisfactory and t h e problem has been corrected while making t h e tests . Sometimes, when working with electrical circuits, correct ive action has been taken almost accidently, a bad connection has been made good, etc. If t h e solenoid test failed, i t does not necessarily mean t h e solenoid is defective. The solenoid may not be properly grounded through

t h e cutout switch. Therefore, t h e cu tou t switch may be defect ive and should b e checked a s outlined l a te r in this section.

c- With t h e vol tmeter st i l l connected at No. 3 and No. 7, connect one end of a jump- e r wire at No. 8, t h e s t a r t e r solenoid, and t h e other lead t o a good ground. Connect a second jumper wire at No. 2, t h e positive terminal of t h e bat tery , t o No. 6, t h e s t a r t e r solenoid. The vol tmeter should indicate voltage is present. If voltage is not present, t h e s t a r t e r solenoid is defective and MUST be replaced.

Testing Throttle Advance Cutout Switch Remove t h e existing wire f rom t h e

No. 1 switch terminal. Connect one probe lead of an ohmmeter t o t h e terminal. Con- n e c t t h e other test probe lead t o a good ground. Depress t h e switch button and t h e ohmmeter should indicate continuity. If continuity is not indicated, t h e switch is defect ive and MUST be replaced. Connect t h e heavy cable at No. 5, t h e s t a r t e r motor.

GROUND

Diagram of hookup for making the various test outlined in the text. This illustration and the numbers shown are to be used when testing the starter motor components.

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6-14 STARTER DRIVE GEAR SERVICE

STARTER REMOVAL ALL V4 ENGINES 1958 TO 1968

Before beginning any work on t h e s t a r t e r motor, disconnect the positive (+) lead f rom t h e ba t t e ry terminal. Remove t h e hood. Disconnect t h e red cable at the s t a r t e r motor terminal.

1- Remove t h e two thru-bolts securing t h e s t a r t e r motor. These bolts pass through t h e s t a r t e r motor and th read into t h e drive gear housing. On some engines a s t a r t e r motor support bracket is installed under t h e s t a r t e r motor securing the s t a r t e r motor t o t h e engine. If t h e bracket is installed, remove t h e 7/16" bolt securing t h e bracket t o t h e powerhead. Remove t h e s t a r t e r motor and bracket together.

STARTER DRIVE REMOVAL

GOOD WORDS The s t a r t e r drive assembly has a nut on

top t h a t i s easier t o loosen before t h e assembly is removed from t h e engine. A special tool can be made from an old screwdriver which will great ly assist in this task. After t h e screwdriver has been modified, as shown in t h e accompanying illustration "Aw, i t will f i t onto t h e pinion gear.

2- Using t h e special tool t o prevent t h e pinion gear from rotating, a socket wrench can be used t o loosen t h e nut.

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&38 ELECTRICAL

3- After t h e nut is loose, remove t h e 7/16" screw on t h e base of t h e drive gear assembly, and l if t assembly f r e e of t h e bracket on t h e powerhead.

4- With t h e assembly on t h e bench, remove and DISCARD t h e nut from t h e top of t h e housing. Pull t h e shaf t and a t taching par ts f r e e of t h e housing from the other end.

Remove the component par ts f rom t h e shaf t and note thei r order a s an aid t o assembling. The top of t h e housing has a shaf t bushing which may remain in t h e hous- inn as the shaf t is removed. If t h e bushing c a m e out with t h e shaf t , remove i t f irst . Next, slide the pinion s top off t h e shaf t , then t h e anti-drift spring, a thrus t washer, anti-drift spring sleeve, t h e pinion gear, screw shaf t , another thrust washer, upper cushion cup, cushion, spacer, lower cushion cup, and finally another thrust washer f r e e , in t h a t order leaving a bare shaft .


The most important i t ems in t h e assembly a r e t h e shaf t and t h e gear. The gear meshes with t h e splined gear on t h e arma- tu re shaft. These gears MUST remain in good condition for t h e assembly t o function properly. Inspect t h e t ee th of both gears t o b e sure they a r e f r e e of any type of damage or wear.

If t h e shaf t is t o be replaced, t h e arma- t u r e should also be replaced. The a r m a t u r e is an expensive par t , but if a new shaf t is installed with t h e old armature , one or t h e

The drive gear assembly, le f t , is used with a magne- to ignition system. The right gear is used with a battery ignition system.

other will most likely wear excessively in a very short time.

Inspect the pinion gear t e e t h t o be sure they a r e clean and f r e e of any damage. Check t o be sure the screw shaf t moves f reely inside t h e pinion gear with no sign of binding.

Clean the screw portion of t h e shaft. Check t h e rubber cushion fo r wear, but DO NOT clean i t with solvent.

If t h e bushing in t h e housing needs t o be replaced, i t may be pushed or pressed out. If, at all possible, put t h e new sleeve in a f reezer or cold refrigerator overnight t o shrink i t fo r easier installation. After t h e new bushing has been installed, insert t h e shaf t through t h e housing t o be sure i t turns freely.

INSTALLATION

1- Apply just a drop or two of oil onto t h e bushing in t h e top of t h e housing. The

Armature gear and drive gear with worn teeth. If only one gear is worn and unfit for service, BOTH gears must be replaced as a set .

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STARTER DRIVE GEAR 6-39

remainder of t h e components will be assembled DRY. Do not use any oil or lubri- can t on any of t h e other parts.

Assembling t h e drive gear unit is simply a case of sliding t h e component par ts onto t h e shaf t in t h e reverse order f rom which they were removed. First , slide t h e thrus t washer down into place, then t h e small cushion cup with t h e lip on t h e side, then t h e cushion spacer, t h e cushion, then t h e large cushion cup with t h e flange facing DOWNWARD, t h e second thrust washer, t h e screw shaf t , s t a r t e r drive pinion gear, anti- dr i f t spring sleeve, another washer, anti- dr i f t spring down over t h e sleeve, and finally, t h e pinion s top with t h e concave side DOWN.

Insert the assembled shaf t up into t h e housing and hold i t in place by s tar t ing a NEW nut onto the shaft. I t is easier t o t ighten t h e nut a f t e r t h e assembly has been installed using the modified screwdriver employed during loosening of t h e nut.

2- Install t h e unit onto t h e powerhead and secure i t in place with t h e 7/16" bolt.

3- Use t h e modified screwdriver and socket wrench t o t ighten t h e nut until i t stops at t h e end of t h e shaf t threads. Af te r t h e nut is tightened, loosen t h e 7/16" bolt slightly t o assist with t h e s t a r t e r motor installation and t h e alignment of t h e thru- bolts.

To t e s t t h e complete s t a r t e r motor, proceed directly t o Section 6-19.

To install the s t a r t e r motor onto t h e engine, if no fu r the r work is t o b e performed, proceed directly to Section 6-20.

6-15 STARTER DRIVE GEAR SERVICE 55 HP 3-CYLINDER 1968 AND 1969 60 HP 3-CYLINDER 1970 AND 1971 85 HP V4 1969 TO 1972 115 HP V4 1969 AND 1970 125 HP V4 1971 AND 1972

STARTER REMOVAL

Before beginning any work on t h e s t a r t e r motor, disconnect t h e positive (+) lead f rom t h e ba t t e ry terminal. Remove t h e hood. Disconnect t h e red cable at t h e s t a r t e r motor terminal.

1- Remove t h e t h r e e 1/211 bolts securing t h e s t a r t e r motor t o t h e powerhead. One of

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6-40 ELECTRICAL

these bolts is located on t h e por t side just above t h e carburetor. The brackets a r e welded t o t h e s t a r t e r motor housing. Once t h e bolts have been removed, t h e s t a r t e r motor can be l if ted f r e e of t h e powerhead.

DISASSEMBLING

Starter Drive Gear Prevent t h e a rmature from turning by

holding i t with t h e proper size wrench on

Removing the starter drive assembly using an open- end wrench and a boxend wrench to remove the shaft nut.

Removing the drive gear using a pair of pliers to hold the gear and a boxend wrench to remove the shaft nut.

t h e hex nut provided for th is purpose on t h e opposite end f rom t h e shaf t nut. If t h e hex nu t is not provided, hold t h e drive assembly with a pair of water pump pliers. Remove t h e shaf t nut, spring retainer, spring, and then t h e drive assembly. The shaf t nu t should be replaced and NOT used a second time. The manufacturer STRONGLY rec- ommends against using any type of self- locking nut on t h e shaft .

If servicing a 55hp, 1968 o r 1969, t a p t h e retainer downward, and then remove t h e snaD ring. Slide t h e re ta iner f ree , and then t h e other parts.

Removal sequence of parts when disassembling the drive gear.

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DELCO-REMY SERVICE 6-4 1

The exploded drawing accompanying section will be helpful in assembling s t a r t e r motor in t h e proper sequence.

this t h e


Inspect t h e drive gear t e e t h fo r chips, cracks, or a broken tooth. Check t h e spline inside t h e drive gear fo r burrs and t o be sure t h e drive gear moves freely on t h e a r m a t u r e shaft . Check t o b e sure t h e return spring is flexible and has not become distorted. Clean t h e a r m a t u r e shaf t with crocus cloth.

ASSEMBLING

Starter Drive Gear Begin by assembling t h e following par ts

in t h e order rriven. The accompanying illus- t ra t ion will be most helpful in assembling t h e par ts in t h e proper sequence. First , slide t h e drive gear onto t h e shaf t , then t h e spring, spring retainer, and then a NEW locking nut. Prevent the a rmature shaf t from turning by holding i t with t h e proper s ize wrench on t h e hex nut provided fo r this purpose on t h e opposite end from t h e s h a f t nut. If t h e a rmature hex nut is not provided, hold t h e drive assembly with a pair of wa te r pump pliers. Tighten the shaf t nut securely.

If servicing a 55hp, 1968 or 1969, slide t h e drive gear onto t h e shaf t , then t h e spring, and then the retainer. Secure t h e retainer in place with t h e snap rinn. Use a pair of pliers and force t h e re ta iner up over t h e snap ring.

To t e s t t h e complete s t a r t e r motor, proceed directly t o Section - 6-13.

To install the s t a r t e r motor onto the engine, if no fur ther work is t o be performed, proceed directly t o Section 6-20.

6-16 DELCO-REMY SERVICE

REMOVAL

Before beginning any work on t h e s t a r t e r motor, disconnect t h e positive (+) lead f rom t h e ba t t e ry terminal. Remove t h e hood. Disconnect t h e red cable at t h e s t a r t e r motor terminal.

1- Remove t h e two thru-bolts securing t h e s t a r t e r motor. These bolts pass through t h e s t a r t e r motor and thread into t h e drive gear housing. On some engines a s t a r t e r motor support bracket i s installed under t h e s t a r t e r motor securing t h e s t a r t e r motor t o

Installation sequence of parts when assembling the drive gear.

Using a right-angle carburetor socket wrench to remove the 3/8" starter motor mounting bolt.

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6-42 ELECTRICAL

t h e engine. If t h e bracket is installed, remove t h e 7/16" bolt securing t h e bracket t o t h e powerhead. Remove the s t a r t e r motor and bracket together.

2- To remove the drive gear assembly, remove t h e 7/16" screw on t h e base of t h e drive gear assembly, and l i f t assembly f r e e of t h e bracket on t h e powerhead.

GOOD NEWS If the only motor repair necessary is

replacement of t h e brushes, t h e drive gear does not have t o be removed. If additional work is required, see Section 6-14.

All s t a r t e r motors have thru-bolts securing t h e upper and lower c a p t o t h e field f r a m e assembly. In al l cases both caps have some type of mark or boss. These marks a r e used t o properly align t h e caps with t h e field f r a m e assembly.

The drive gear assembly, l e f t , is used with a magne- to ignition system. The right gear is used with a battery ignition system.

Armature gear and &ive gear with worn teeth. If only one gear is worn and unftt for service, BOTH gears must be replaced as a set.

FIRST THESE WORDS Two models of Delco-Remy s t a r t e r ma-

tors a r e installed, a short model and longer, more powerful model. The short model has one positive and one negative brush. The longer model has two positive and two nega- t ive brushes. The negative brushes can always b e identified as t h e brushes with t h e lead connected t o t h e f rame. The o ther brush or brushes a r e connected t o t h e field coil.

3- Observe t h e caps and find t h e identifying mark or boss on each. If t h e marks a r e not visible, make an identifying mark prior t o removing t h e thru-bolts a s an essential a id during assembling. Remove t h e thru-bolts from t h e s t a r t e r motor. Use a small hammer and CAREFULLY t a p t h e lower c a p f r e e of t h e s t a r t e r motor. On t h e Delco-Remy s t a r t e r motor, t h e brushes a r e mounted in t h e f r a m e assembly. Pull on t h e a rmature shaf t f rom t h e drive gear end and remove i t from the field f r a m e assembly. Remove t h e brushes f rom thei r holders, and then remove t h e brush springs.

NOTCH

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DELCO-REMY SERVICE 6-43

ARMATURE TESTING

Testing for a Short 4- Position the a rmature on a growler,

then hold a hacksaw blade over t h e arma- t u r e core. Turn t h e growler switch t o t h e O N position. Slowly ro ta te t h e armature. If t h e hacksaw blade vibrates, t h e a r m a t u r e or commutator has a short. Clean t h e grooves between t h e commutator bars on t h e armature. Perform t h e test again. If t h e hacksaw blade still vibrates during the test, t h e a rmature has a short and MUST h e r e ~ l a c e d .

COMMUTATOR 0

Testing for a Ground 5- Obtain a test lamp or continuity me-

ter. Make con tac t with one probe lead on t h e a rmature core and t h e other probe lead on t h e commutator bar. If t h e l amp lights, o r t h e mete r indicates continuity, t h e aims- tu re is grounded and MUST be replaced.

Checking the Commutator Bar 6- Check between or check bar-to-bar

a s shown in t h e accompanving illustration. The t e s t light should light, or t h e m e t e r should indicate continuity. If t h e commutator fai ls t h e test, t h e a rmature MUST be replaced.

Turning the Commutator 7- True t h e commutator , if necessary, in

a lathe. NEVER undercut t h e mica because t h e brushes a r e harder than t h e insulation. Undercut t h e insulation between t h e commutator bars 1/32" (0.79 mm) t o the full width of t h e insulation and f l a t at t h e bottom. A tr iangular groove is not satisfac- torv. Af te r t h e undercutting work is completed, clean ou t the slots carefully t o remove di r t and copper -dust. Sand t h e commuta to r lightly with No. 00 s a n d ~ a p e r t o remove any burrs l e f t f rom t h e undercutting. Check t h e a rmature a second t i m e on t h e growler fo r wossible short circuits.

CORRECT INCORRECT

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6-44 ELECTR l CAL

Positive Brushes 8- The positive brush or brushes can

always be identified as t h e brushes connected t o t h e field coil.

Obtain an ohmmeter. Connect one lead of t h e mete r t o t h e end of t h e brush and t h e other lead t o the terminal. The ohmmeter MUST indicate continuity between t h e brush and t h e terminal. If t h e mete r indi- c a t e s any resistance, check t h e lead t o t h e brush and t h e lead t o t h e positive terminal solder connection. If t h e connection cannot be repaired, the brushes MUST be replaced. If t h e unit being tes ted has a double set of positive brushes, repeat the t e s t for the other positive brush.

Move the test lead f rom t h e brush t o a good ground on t h e frame. If continuity is indicated, t h e field coil is grounded t o t h e case.

Negative Brushes 9- The negative brushes can always be

identified because t h e lead is connected t o t h e brush retainer as a ground t o t h e frame.

Obtain an ohmmeter. Make con tac t with one lead on the negative brush and make contact with t h e other lead on t h e s t a r t e r frame. If the mete r does not indicate continuity, t h e brush or brush retainer is not grounded t o t h e frame.

If t h e unit being tes ted has a double set of negative and positive brushes, move t h e test lead from the one negative brush t o t h e other negative brush lead and again check for continuity. If the meter does not indicate continuity, t h e brush or brush re ta iner is not grounded t o t h e frame.

Check t o be sure none of t h e soldered connections a r e touching t h e frame. The

fields would be grounded if t h e connections make con tac t with t h e frame.


Clean t h e field coils, a rmature , commuta to r , a rmature shaf t , brush-end pla te and drive-end housing with a brush or compressed air. Wash all o ther par ts in solvent and blow them dry with compressed air.

Inspect t h e insulation and t h e unsoldered connections of t h e a rmature windings for breaks or burns.

Perform elect r ica l tests on any suspected defect ive par t , according t o t h e procedures outlined earl ier in this Section.

Check t h e commutator fo r run-out. In- spec t the a rmature shaf t and both bearings fo r scoring.

Typical brush spring. If the springs have turned blue in color, they must be replaced.

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Turn t h e commutator in a l a the if i t i s out-of-round by more than 0.005" (1.27 mm)

Check t h e springs in t h e brush holder t o be sure none a r e broken. Check t h e spring tension and replace if t h e tension is not 32- 40 ounces. Check t h e insulated brush hold- e r s f o r shorts t o ground. If t h e brushes a r e worn down t o 114" (6.35 mm) or less, t h e y must be replaced.

Check t h e field brush connections and lead insulation. A brush kit and a con tac t kit a r e available at your local marine dealer, but all o ther assemblies must be replac- e d ra the r than repaired.

The armature , fields, and brush holders, must be checked before assembling t h e star- t e r motor. See t h e test ing section in this chapter fo r detailed procedures t o test t h e s t a r t e r motor.

ASSEMBLING THE DELCO-REMY

Negative Brushes and Retainer The following procedures apply t o brush-

es mounted t o t h e field f r a m e assembly. 1- Remove t h e old set of ground brushes

by cut t ing off t h e r ivets with a chisel or by drilling them out. Replacement brush hold- e r kits a r e available at marine outlets .

FRAME

BRUSH HOLDER

POLE SHOE

DELCO-REMY SERWCE 6-45

POSITIVE BRUSH HOLDER

These kits a r e complete with screws, washers, and nuts, for a t t achment t o t h e f rame. Replacement brush springs a r e also available.

The brush spring is removed from t h e holder by compressing one side of t h e spring with a small screwdriver until t h e spring flips ou t of i t s seat . After t h e spring pops out, turn t h e spring clockwise until i t is f r e e

END ,/ CAP

ARMATURE /'

('&

WASHER

Exploded view showing arrangement of major Delco-Remy starter motor parts.

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6-46 ELECTRICAL

A new negative brush and brush holder as it appears when removed from the package.

Replacement brush sets a r e available and usually contain t h e following parts:

One insulated brush, with flexible lead attached. One ground brush holder with brush and lead attached. Necessary a t taching screws, washers, and nuts.

Positive Brushes C u t off t h e old brush lead where it is

a t tached t o t h e field coil. Prepare t h e ends of t h e coil for soldering the new brush lead assembly. Clean t h e ends of t h e coil by filing or grinding off t h e old brush lead connection. Remove t h e varnish only as f a r back as necessary t o enable a good soldered connection t o be made.

Use rosin flux and solder t h e leads t o t h e BACK SIDES of t h e coil t o prevent any excess solder from rubbing against t h e armature. Be sure t h e leads a r e in t h e r ight position t o reach t h e brush holders. Do not

Installing the negative brush into the frame assembly. A new bolt and washer is provided in the replacement kit.

overheat t h e leads, because t h e solder will run onto t h e lead and t h e lead will loose its flexibility.

Assembling the Starter Motor 1- Clamp t h e drive gear in a vise equip-

ped with so f t jaws and with t h e drive gear down. Insert t h e brush springs in to t h e brush holders, and then install the brushes in place.

TAKE TIME t o whitt le t h e end of two or four match st icks in t h e shape of a tiny spade. Now push one brush outward, and t h e n wedge one of t h e match st icks in between t h e brush and t h e lip of t h e retainer. The match st ick will hold t h e brush in t h e re t rac ted position during installation of t h e armature. R e t r a c t each of t h e remaining brushes and hold them with a match stick.

2- Af te r al l t h e brushes have been re- t rac ted and held in place with t h e match st icks, lower t h e field f r a m e assembly until

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AUTOLITE SERVICE 6-47

sticks, lower t h e field f r a m e assembly until t h e brushes make con tac t with t h e commuta tor . Now, remove t h e match sticks. Align t h e mark on t h e upper c a p with t h e matching mark on t h e field frame.

3- Place t h e washer onto t h e commuta- to r shaf t , then place t h e c a p onto t h e end of t h e field f r a m e assembly. Align t h e mark on t h e lower caD with the mark on t h e field frame. Install t h e thru-bolts through t h e end c a p and hold i t all together with a nut on t h e end of each bolt. These nuts will b e removed la ter .

To test t h e complete s t a r t e r motor, proceed directly t o Section 6-19.

To install t h e s t a r t e r motor onto t h e engine, proceed directly t o Section 6-20.

6- 17 AUTOLITE STARTER MOTOR SERVICE

REMOVAL Before beginning anv work on t h e s t a r t e r

motor, disconnect t h e positive (+) lead f rom

t h e ba t t e ry terminal. Remove t h e hood. Disconnect t h e red cable at t h e s t a r t e r motor terminal.

1- Remove t h e two thru-bolts securing t h e s t a r t e r motor. These bolts pass through t h e s t a r t e r motor and thread into t h e drive gear housina. On some engines a s t a r t e r motor support bracket is installed under t h e s t a r t e r motor securing t h e s t a r t e r motor t o t h e engine. If t h e bracket is installed, remove t h e 7/16" bolt securing t h e bracket t o t h e powerhead. Remove t h e s t a r t e r motor and bracket together.

2- To remove t h e drive gear assembly, remove t h e 7/16" screw on t h e base of t h e drive gear assembly, and l i f t assembly f r e e of t h e bracket on t h e powerhead.

GOOD NEWS If t h e only motor repair necessary is

replacement of t h e brushes, t h e drive gear does not have t o be removed. All s t a r t e r motors have thru-bolts securing t h e upper and lower c a p t o t h e field f r a m e assembly. In all cases both caps have some type of mark or boss. These marks a r e used t o properly align t h e caws with t h e field f r a m e assembly.

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6-48 ELECTRICAL

DISASSEMBLING

3- Observe the caps and find t h e identifying mark o r boss on each. If t h e marks a r e not visible, make an identifying mark prior t o removing t h e thru-bolts a s an essen- t ia l aid during assembling. Remove the thru-bolts f rorn t h e s t a r t e r motor.

4- Use a small hammer and CARE- FULLY t a D t h e lower cap f r e e of t h e s t a r t e r motor. Can t h e Autolite s t a r t e r motor, t h e brushes a r e mounted in t h e end cap.

5- Pull on t h e a rmature shaf t f rom t h e drive gear end and remove i t f rom t h e field f r a m e assembly. Renrcsve t h e positive brush f rom i t s holder.

ARMATURE TESTING

Testing for a Short 6- Position t h e a rmature on a growler,

then hold a hacksaw blade over t h e arma- t u r e core. Turn t h e growler switch t o t h e ON position. Slowly r o t a t e t h e armature. If

-

t h e hacksaw blade vibrates, t h e a r m a t u r e o r commutator has a short. Clean t h e grooves between t h e commutator bars on t h e armature. Perform t h e test again. If t h e hacksaw blade still vibrates during t h e test, t h e a rmature has a short and MUST be replaced.


ter. Make con tac t with one probe lead on t h e a rmature core and t h e other probe lead on t h e commutator bar. If t h e lamp lights,

/

19.6.88 COMMUTATOR

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AUTOLITE SERVICE 6-49

o r t h e mete r indicates continuity, t h e arma- t u r e is grounded and MUST be replaced.


as shown in t h e accompanying illustration. The t e s t light should light, or t h e m e t e r should indicate continuity. If t h e commutator fai ls t h e test, t h e a rmature MUST b e replaced.


a lathe. NEVER undercut t h e mica because t h e brushes a r e harder than t h e insulation. Undercut t h e insulation between t h e commuta to r bars 1/32" (0.79 mm) t o the full width of t h e insulation and f l a t at t h e bottom. A triangular groove is not satisfactory. Af te r t h e undercutting work is completed, clean ou t the slots carefully t o remove d i r t and copper dust. Sand t h e commuta to r lightly with No. 80 sandpaper t o remove any burrs l e f t from t h e undercutting. Check t h e a rmature a second t i m e on t h e growler f o r possible short circuits.

Positive Brushes 10- The positive brushes can always fie

identified as t h e brush with t h e lead connected t o t h e field coil.

Obtain an ohmmeter. Connect one lead of t h e m e t e r t o t h e end of t h e brush and t h e o ther lead t o t h e terminal. The ohmmeter MUST indicate continuity between t h e brush and t h e terminal. If t h e mete r indicates any resistance, check t h e lead to t h e brush and

CORRECT INCORRECT @ t h e lead t o t h e positive terminal solder connection. If t h e connection cannot b e repaired, t h e brush MUST be replaced.

Negative Brush 11- The negative brush can alwavs be

identified hecause t h e lead is connected t o t h e s t a r t e r motor end cap. (abtain an ohmmeter . Make con tac t with one lead on t h e negative brush and make c o n t a c t with t h e other lead on t h e s t a r t e r end cap. If t h e mete r does not indicate continuity, t h e brush or brush retainer is not grounded t o t h e end cap.

Positive Brush Installation 12- First , c u t t h e old field coil brush

free. Next, a t t a c h t h e lead of t h e new brush t o t h e stiff wire lead on t h e field coil. Wrap a f ine piece of copper wire around t h e lead and t h e stiff wire f rom t h e coil t o hold t h e brush lead in place while i t is soldered. If t h e wrapped wire becomes soldered also, no problem, leave i t in place. If i t did not become soldered, pull i t f r e e a f t e r t h e solder ing is complete.

Use rosin flux and solder t h e leads t o t h e BACK SIDES of t h e wire t o prevent any excess solder from rubbing against t h e armature. Be sure t h e leads a r e in t h e r ight

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6-50 ELECTRICAL

position t o reach t h e brush holders. Do not overheat t h e leads, because t h e solder will run onto t h e lead and t h e lead will loose i t s flexibility.

Check t o be sure none of t h e soldered connections a r e touching t h e f rame. The f ie lds would be grounded if t h e connections make con tac t with t h e f rame .

Negative Brush Installation 13- C u t t h e old brush f r e e f rom t h e end

cap. Clean the surface thoroughly. Next, solder t h e lead of t h e new brush t o t h e end cap. If the re ta iner is no longer f i t fo r service, t h e ent i re end c a p must be replaced. New brushes a r e NOT included with t h e end cap.


Clean t h e field coils, armature , commuta to r , a rmature shaf t , brush-end pla te and drive-end housing with a brush or compressed air. Wash all o ther pa r t s in solvent and blow them dry with compressed air.

Inspect the insulation and t h e unsoldered connections of t h e a rmature windings for breaks or burns.

Perform electrical t e s t s on any suspect- e d defect ive par t , according t o t h e procedures outlined earl ier in this section.

Check t h e commutator f o r run-out. In- spec t the a rmature shaf t and both bearings fo r scoring.

Turn the commutator in a l a the if i t is out-of-round by more than 0.00511 (1.27 mm).

Check t h e springs in t h e brush holder t o be sure none a r e broken. Check t h e spring

tension and replace if t h e tension is not 32- 40 ounces. Check t h e insulated brush hold- e r s for shorts t o ground. If t h e brushes a r e worn down t o 114" (6.35 mm) or less, t h e y must b e replaced.

Check t h e field brush connections and lead insulation. A brush kit and a c o n t a c t k i t a r e available at your local marine dealer, but all o ther assemblies must be replac- e d ra the r than repaired.

The armature , fields, and brush holders, must be checked before assembling t h e star- t e r motor. See t h e tes t ing section in this chapter for detailed procedures t o test t h e s t a r t e r motor.

ASSEMBLING THE AUTOLITE

1- Clamp the a r m a t u r e in a vise e a u b I I

ped with so f t jaws with t h e drive end DOWN. Slide t h e thrus t washers onto t h e a rmature shaft . Lower t h e field assembly down over t h e armature . The spring act ion

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AUTOLiTE SERVICE 6-5 1

against t h e brush is built into t h e retainer, Therefore, a separate brush spring is not required. With one brush a t t ached t o t h e end c a p and t h e other t o t h e f r a m e assembly, positioning t h e brushes properly is not t h e easiest task, but i t can be done with patience.

Insert t h e negative brush in to t h e retain- e r and push i t in until t h e back par t of t h e spring rests on t h e side of t h e brush. This fo rce secures t h e brush in the re ta iner in a re t rac ted position. Lower t h e end c a p over t h e f r a m e assembly. Install t h e positive brush in to t h e retainer and push t h e brush backward until the spring par t of t h e retain- e r is on t h e side of t h e brush.

2- Work t h e c a p over t h e end of t h e a rmature shaf t and t h e brushes over t h e commutator. Jus t before t h e c a p is completely in to place against t h e f rame, use a punch and push on the back side of each brush and t h e brush will snap in t o r ide against the commutator. The spring will then be behind t h e brush.

FIELD

\

MAGNET

8 'a

BOLT

3- Align the end c a p notch or mark with t h e mark on t h e f r a m e and t h e upper c a p mark with i t s matching mark. Now, install t h e thru-bolts through t h e end c a p and hold i t all together with a nut on each bolt. The nuts will la ter be removed when t h e s t a r t e r motor is installed onto t h e powerhead.

To test t h e complete s t a r t e r motor, proceed directly t o Section 6-19.

To install t h e s t a r t e r motor onto t h e engine, proceed directly t o Section 6-20.

NOTCH

Exploded view of a starter motor with principle parts identified.

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6-52 ELECTRICAL

6-18 PRESTOLITE SERVICE

Two d i f f e ren t me thods of ins ta l la t ion w e r e used fo r t h e P res to l i t e s t a r t e r m o t o r s used on t h e engines cove red in th is manual . If t h e s t a r t e r motor i s instal led on t h e s t a rboa rd s ide of t h e engine, i t i s s ecu red t o a b r a c k e t a t t a c h e d t o t h e powerhead. If t h e uni t i s instal led on t h e p o r t s ide of t h e engine, a b r a c k e t i s welded t o t h e s t a r t e r and t h e b r a c k e t i s t hen secured t o t h e powerhead.

REMOVAL STARBOARD INSTALLATION WITH SEPARATE DRIVE GEAR

Before beginning any work on t h e s t a r t e r mo to r , disconnect t h e posi t ive (+) l ead f r o m t h e b a t t e r y terminal . Remove t h e hood. Disconnect t h e red c a b l e at t h e s t a r t e r mo to r te rminal .

1- Remove t h e two thru-bolts secur ing t h e s t a r t e r motor . These bol t s pass t h rough t h e s t a r t e r motor and t h r e a d in to t h e dr ive g e a r housing. On some engines a s t a r t e r mo to r suppor t b racke t i s instal led under t h e s t a r t e r mo to r securing t h e s t a r t e r mo to r t o t h e engine. If t h e b racke t is instal led, remove t h e 7/16" bolt secur ing t h e b racke t t o t h e powerhead. R e m o v e t h e s t a r t e r mo to r and b racke t together .

2- To remove t h e dr ive gea r assembly, r emove t h e 7/16" sc rew on t h e base of t h e dr ive gear assembly, and l i f t assembly f r e e of t h e bracket on t h e powerhead.

REMOVAL PORT SIDE INSTALLATION DRIVE GEAR ON ARMATURE SHAFT

a r e visible. L i f t t h e s t a r t e r mo to r f r e e of t h e powerhead.

GOOD NEWS If t h e only moto r repa i r necessary is

r ep l acemen t of t h e brushes, t h e dr ive g e a r does not have t o b e removed. All s t a r t e r mo to r s have thru- bolts secur ing t h e upper and lower c a p t o t h e fie14 f r a m e assembly. In a l l cases bo th caps have some t y p e of m a r k o r boss. These marks a r e used to properly align t h e caps with t h e f ie ld f r a m e assembly.

3- Remove t h e t h r e e a t t a c h i n g bolts f r o m t h e powerhead. One i s part ial ly hidden just behind t h e ca rbu re to r and t h e o t h e r t w o

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PRESTOLlTE SERVICE 6-53

DISASSEMBLING

4- Observe the caps and find t h e identifying mark or boss on each. If t h e marks a r e not visible, make an identifying mark prior t o removing t h e thru-bolts as an essential aid during assembling. Remove t h e thru-bolts f rom t h e s t a r t e r motor.

5- Use a small hammer and CARE- FULLY t a p t h e lower c a p f r e e of t h e s t a r t e r motor.

6- Pull on the a rmature shaf t from the drive gear end and remove i t f rom t h e field f r a m e assembly. Remove the brushes from thei r holders, and then remove t h e brush springs. Lift t h e white plastic retainer f r e e from t h e f rame. Observe t h e location of t h e notch on t h e retainer in relation t o t h e frame. The retainer must be installed in t h e s a m e position.

ARMATURE TESTING

Testing for a Short 1- Position the a rmature on a growler,

then hold a hacksaw blade over t h e arma- t u r e core. Turn t h e growler switch t o the

ON position. Slowly ro ta te t h e armature . If t h e hacksaw blade vibrates, t h e a rmature or commutator has a short. Clean t h e grooves between the commutator bars on t h e armature. Perform t h e test again. If t h e hacksaw blade still vibrates during t h e t e s t , t h e a rmature has a short and MUST be replaced.

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6-54 ELECTRICAL

' 0 COMMUTATOR


ter. Make con tac t with one probe lead on t h e a rmature core and t h e other probe lead on t h e commutator bar. If t h e lamp lights, or t h e mete r indicates continuity, t h e arma- tu re is grounded and MUST be replaced.


as shown in t h e accompanying illustration. The test light should light, or t h e m e t e r should indicate continuity. If t h e commutator fai ls t h e test, t h e a rmature MUST b e replaced.


a lathe. NEVER undercut t h e mica because

CORRECT INCORRECT t h e brushes a r e harder than t h e insulation. Undercut t h e insulation between t h e commutator bars 1/32" (0.79 mm) t o the full width of t h e insulation and f l a t at t h e bottom. A triangular groove is not satisfactory. After t h e undercutting work is completed, clean out t h e slots carefully t o remove dirt and copper dust. Sand t h e commuta to r lightly with No. 00 sandpaper t o remove any burrs l e f t f rom t h e undercutting. Check t h e a rmature a second t i m e on t h e growler fo r possible shor t circuits.

Positive Brushes 5- Notice how t h e positive brush lead is

a t t ached t o t h e terminal on t h e end of t h e f rame. This is t h e same terminal t o which t h e heavy ba t t e ry cable is a t tached. The terminal may be removed f rom t h e f rame. Pull t h e terminal f r e e of t h e f rame.

Obtain an ohmmeter. Connect one test lead of an ohmmeter t o t h e brush and t h e other t e s t lead t o t h e terminal. Continuity should be indicated on t h e ohmmeter. If continuity is not indicated, t h e brush must be replaced. The brush and terminal a r e sold as an assembly, el iminating t h e neces- s i ty for soldering.

Negative Brushes 6- The complete terminology f o r Presto-

l i te negative brushes is: Field Coil -- Nega- t ive Brush.

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Obtain an ohmmeter. Make con tac t with one test lead t o t h e negative brush and make con tac t with t h e other lead t o t h e s t a r t e r f rame. If t h e mete r does not indicate continuity, t h e field coils a r e open and MUST be replaced.

Check t o be sure the soldered connections a r e NOT touching t h e f rame. The f ie lds must not be grounded. If t h e connections make con tac t with t h e f rame , t h e f ields would be grounded.


Clean t h e field coils, armature , commuta to r , a rmature shaf t , brush-end plate, and drive-end housing with a brush or compressed air. Wash all o ther pa r t s in solvent and blow them dry with compressed air.

Inspect t h e insulation and t h e unsoldered connections of the a rmature windings for breaks or burns.

UPPER HEAD

WASHER

!

O-RING 4

ARMATURE

PRESTOLITE SERVICE 6-55

Perform electrical t e s t s on any suspect- e d defect ive par t , according t o t h e procedures outlined earl ier in this section.

Check t h e commutator f o r run-out. In- spect the a rmature s h a f t and both bearings for scoring.

FIELD

F-.--

BRUSH G@ HOLDER LOWER

HEAD

Exploded drawing of a Prestolite starter motor.

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6-56 ELECTRICAL

Turn the commutator in a l a the if i t is out-of-round by more than 0.005" (1.27 mm).

Check t h e springs in t h e brush holder t o be sure none a r e broken. Check t h e spring tension and replace if t h e tension is not 32- 40 ounces. Check t h e insulated brush hold- e r s for shorts t o ground. If t h e brushes a r e worn down t o 1/4" (6.35 mm) o r less, t h e y must b e replaced.

Check t h e field brush connections and lead insulation. A brush kit and a con tac t kit a r e available at your local marine dealer, but all o ther assemblies must be replac- e d ra ther than repaired.

The armature , fields, and brush holders, must be checked before assembling t h e star- t e r motor. See the test ing section in this chapter for detailed procedures t o test t h e s t a r t e r motor.

ASSEMBLING THE PRESTOLITE

1- Slide t h e plastic terminal and brush lead retainer into t h e groove in the f r a m e with t h e small protrusion on one side facing DOWNWARD. Continue pushing the retain- e r in to t h e groove until i t is fully seated.

Work t h e brush retainer down on t o p of t h e f r a m e with t h e postive lead through t h e cutaway in t h e retainer plate. Check t o be sure t h e field coil negative brush passes through t h e cutaway in t h e plate.

2- Install t h e spring in to t h e retainer. Push t h e negative brush into i t s re ta iner and then, wrap a f ine piece of wire around t h e f ron t side of the brush and t h e back side of t h e retainer. Tighten t h e wire snugly. This wire will hold the brush in t h e retainer. Repeat t h e procedure for t h e positive brush.

Check t o be sure t h e plate is secured onto t h e f r a m e and t h e cutaway is over t h e

protrusion of t h e positive plastic terminal.

Clamp t h e a rmature in a vise equipped with sof t jaws with t h e drive gear facing DOWNWARD. Install t h e thrus t washers onto t h e end of t h e a rmature shaft. Lower t h e f r a m e assembly down over t h e a r m a t u r e until the brushes a r e over t h e commutator.

3- After t h e a rmature is in place, c u t and remove t h e wire wrapped around t h e brushes t o hold them in place. The brushes should then make firm con tac t with t h e commutator.

4- Install t h e end c a p onto t h e end of t h e s t a r t e r motor. Observe t h r e e small nipples on t h e inside of t h e end cap. These nipples MUST index with matching dimples in t h e retaining plate. Align t h e mark on t h e side of t h e end c a p with t h e terminal. Lower the c a p onto t h e f rame, and seat i t GENTLY. NEVER t a p with a hammer o r o ther tool, because t h e nipples may not be indexed with t h e dimples and t h e tapping may cause damage.

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STARTER MOTOR TESTING 6-57

Align t h e end c a p notch or mark , wi th t h e m a r k on t h e f r a m e , and t h e upper c a p mark wi th i t s mark.

Starter Motor Installed on Port Side Install t h e thru- bolts through t h e end c a p

and f r ame .

Starter Motor Installed on Starboard Side Install t h e thru-bolts through t h e end c a p

and f r a m e and hold i t a l l t oge the r with a nu t on e a c h bolt. These n u t s will b e r emoved l a t e r during instal lat ion of t h e s t a r t e r t o t h e power head.

To test t h e assembled s t a r t e r motor , see t h e Sect ion 6-19.

To instal l t h e s t a r t e r motor , proceed d i rec t ly t o Sec t ion 6-20.

6-19 STARTER MOTOR TESTING

V4 Engines 1958 - 1968 Gear on the Armature Shaft

Two P U ~ S MUST b e th readed o n t o t h e t w o thru-bolts t o hol6 t6e moto r t oge the r during test inn.

All Other Engines Flanges Welded to Motor Housing

This unit is held toge the r by t h e thru- bol t s t h readed in to t h e upper cam.

Testing I Hold t h e s t a r t e r motor f i rmly on t h e

floor wjth o n e foo t , as shown.

SAFETY WORDS The a r m a t u r e will tu rn rapidly during

th i s tes t . Therefore , t h e s t a r t e r m o t o r MUST be vfel l SECURED befo re making t h e t e s t to preven t personal INJURY or d a m a g e t o t h e s t a r t e r motor .

Hookup to test an assmbled starter motor.

Fi rmly connec t one end of a heavy-duty jumper wire to t h e POSITIVE t e rmina l of a ba t t e ry . F i rmly c o n n e c t t h e o t h e r end of t h e jumper l ead t o t h e s t a r t e r mo to r terminal .

C o n n e c t a second heavy-duty jumper wire t o t h e negat ive t e rmina l of t h e ba t- tery . Now, MOMENTARILY m a k e c o n t a c t with t h e o t h e r end of t h e second jumper l e a d anywhere t o t h e f r a m e of t h e s t a r t e r motor . NEVER m a k e t h e m o m e n t a r y contact with t h e posi t ive l e a d t o t h e t e rmina l , because a n y a rc ing at t h e t e rmina l m a y d a m a g e t h e t e rmina l t h r e a d s and t h e nu t m a y not t a k e t o t h e damaged threads . The moto r should turn rapidly. If t h e s t a r t e r mo to r fa i l s t o r o t a t e , t h e s t a r t e r m o t o r rnust b e disassembled aga in and t h e se rv i ce work carefu l ly checked. Sorry abou t t h a t , b u t s o m e phase of t h e rebuild t a sk w a s not perf o rmed properly.

6-20 STARTER MOTOR INSTALLATION

V 4 Engines 1958 to 1968 Gear on the Armature Shaft

1- On t h e s t a rboa rd s ide of t h e engine: s e t t h e gea r s h a f t i n to t h e bronze bushing and s t a r t t h e 7/16'' bol t through t h e housing in to t h e engine bracket . DO NOT t i gh ten t h e bol t a t th is t ime.

R e m o v e t h e nuts f r o m t h e thru-bolts. These nu t s were ins ta l led during assembl ing to hold t h e unit t o g e t h e r fo r t e s t i ng purposes. If a b o t t o m b r a c k e t is used, t h e thru- bol t s rnust pass through t h e b r a c k e t and then through t h e s t a r t e r motor .

GOOD WORDS Instal lat ion of t h e s t a r t e r mo to r t o a n

outboard engine is not t h e eas i e s t of tasks. I t m a y t a k e a l i t t l e t i m e and pa t i ence t o work t h e m o t o r up i n t o t h e dr ive g e a r

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6-58 ELECTRICAL

bracket until i t is seated properly. If difficul ty is encountered, cease t h e work, have a cup of tea or coffee , and then t r y i t again.

2- Use a rubberband around each thru- bolt a f t e r t h e bolt has been installed through t h e s t a r t e r t o hold them in place as t h e motor is l if ted into place. Once t h e thru-bolts a r e s t a r t ed in to t h e drive gear housing, break and remove t h e rubberbands from t h e bolts. Tighten t h e bolts securely.

Install t h e 7/16" bs l t through t h e bracket in to t h e powerhead, if t h e bracket is used.

Connect t h e positive red lead t o t h e s t a r t e r motor. c o n n e c t t h e electrical lead t o the battery. Test t h e completed work by cranking t h e engine with t h e s t a r t e r motor.

D O NOT, under any circumstances, s t a r t t h e engine unless i t is mounted in an adequate s ize t e s t tank or body of water.

CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump,

All Other Engines Starter Motor With Flanges

3- If t h e s t a r t e r motor has t h e mounting flanges permanently a t tached, then position t h e motor in place and s t a r t t h e t h r e e bolts t o a t t a c h t h e motor t o t h e engine. The hole f o r one bolt is hidden in behind t h e carburetor. Tighten t h e th ree bolts ALTERNATE- LY and EVENLY until all bolts a r e tight. The bolts MUST be tightened a l ternate ly t o prevent binding and possibly bending t h e flanges.

Connect the positive red lead t o the s t a r t e r motor. Connect t h e electrical lead t o the battery. Test t h e completed work by cranking t h e engine with t h e s t a r t e r motor.

D O NOT, under any circumstances, s t a r t t h e engine unless i t is mounted in an adequate s ize t e s t tank or body of water.

CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the wate's pump.

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7 ACCESSORIES

7-1 INTRODUCTION

Boat accessories a r e seldom obtained from t h e original equipment manufacturer, except in t h e case of t h e e lec t r i c shi f t unit. The e lect r ic shift box is considered a par t of t h e new engine. Therefore, unless an owner made a change, t h e e lect r ic shift unit with t h e engine is probably original engine manufacturer equipment. Mechanical shift units a r e sold and installed separately.

Shift boxes, steering, bilge pumps, blow- ers , and other similar equipment may be added a f t e r t h e boat leaves t h e plant. Be- cause of the wide assortment, styles, and price ranges of such accessories, t h e distributor, dealer, or customer has a wide selection f rom which t o draw, when outf i t t ing t h e boat.

Therefore, the procedures and suggestions in this chapter a r e general in nature in order t o cover as many units as possible, but still specific and in enough detail t o allow troubleshooting, repair, and adjustment for each of these accessories. Proper operation will do much for maximum comfor t , performance, and enjoyment.

Complete procedures for removal, installation, and adjustment of four shi f t ar- rangements a r e covered in this Chapter: The old-style manual shift; new updated manual shift; e lect r ic shift; and t h e pushbutton shi f t mechanism. These shi f t boxes a r e a l l considered original Johnson/Evinrude equipment.

7-2 SHIFT BOXES DESCRIPTION

Undoubtedly, t h e most used accessory on any boat is t h e t h e shift control box. This unit is a remote-control device for shifting t h e outboard and at t h e s a m e t i m e controlling the thrott le. The shi f t box on OMC

equipped boats i s considered an accessory, excep t in the case of t h e e lec t r i c shift. Theref ore, many installations may have oth- e r than a fac to ry installed unit. OMC equipped boats may be equipped with one of four different type sh i f t boxes: The old- style manual shift; new updated manual shift ; e l ec t r i c shift; and t h e pushbutton shi f t arrangement.

The mechanical shi f t box units have two levers, a long lever handle and a shor t lever handle. The long handle controls t h e throt- t l e and t h e short one t h e shift mechanism. The e lect r ic shift units, including the pushbutton models, have only one lever handle for control of the sh i f t and thrott le. The shift box installed with Johnson engines has one handle for shifting, and another at t h e

NEUTRAL

' \FRICTION

SCREW

Single lever electric shift box used only on the Johnson units. These boxes incorporate a warm-up throttle lever at,the rear and a friction screw on the bottom to hold the throttle position after the operator releases the handle.

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7-2 ACCESSOR l ES

rear of t h e box considered a "warmup" lever. This warmup lever may be adjusted fo r low and fas t idle speeds. The pushbutton type Locks out the shift lever t o prevent shifting if t h e th ro t t l e is advanced t o o f a r while t h e engine is in neutral.

The old style mechanical shi f t boxes were very simple in design. The lower end of t h e shi f t lever handle incorporated a rocker- type arrangement with t e e t h and a nylon sleeve-type slider with tee th . As t h e handle moves, t h e rocker llwalks" in t h e t ee th of t h e slider, pulling on t h e inner th ro t t l e cable or t h e shift cable, fo r shifting or advancing t h e throt t le , depending on which lever is being actuated.

Several accessories have been added t o t h e updated mechanical shi f t box. This new boxs t i l l uses t h e two lever principle f o r t h e t h ~ o t t l e and shift. A frict ion f e a t u r e on t h e th ro t t l e mechanism permits t h e operator t o release his grip on t h e lever handle without t h e th ro t t l e changing position. An idle s top is also built into t h e shift box. This f e a t u r e prevents t h e th ro t t l e f rom being re t rac ted past normal idle t o t h e point where t h e engine would shut down.

STANDARD INSTALLATION

t- SPEED RANGE 1 I

FAST SLOW ,--. , - ,, '-) , \ NEUTRAL

,

It-------- SHIFT RANGE I

1 8 7 1

Double lever manual shift box installed with eariy model Johnson units. This box is no longer available. However some replacement parts may still be in stock at some dealers.

START

FAST m SLOW

L"\ FRICTION 18 7 4 ADJUSTMENT

Single lever electric shift. box installed with the Evinrude units. This box incorporates pushbuttons for shift control, an idle adjustment at the front, and a friction adjustment on the bottom to hold the throttle wosition.

Outboard models a r e equipped with a cut-out switch in t h e cranking system. t o open t h e circuit t o t h e s t a r t e r solenoid. This arrangement prevents the cranking system from operating unless t h e th ro t t l e is

STARBOARD

SPEED RANGE - ! 1 NEUTRAL 1

I

- SHIFT RANGE

Double lever shift box installed with manual shift lower unit engines. TFis shift box is still in use and parts are available from OMC dealers.

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DOUBLE SHIFT LEVER 7-3

installed in t h e shift box. This ar rangement prevents t h e cranking system from operat ing unless t h e throt t le is in t h e proper idle range. Stating i t another way, t h e th ro t t l e MUST be in the idle position or t h e s t a r t e r system will not operate. The position of t h e shi f t lever does not a f f e c t t h e s tar t ing motor circuit. All shi f t box models have a means of advancing t h e th ro t t l e without moving t h e shi f t lever in to gear. This device is commonly known a s t h e "warmup" lever and may be adjusted for low and f a s t idle speeds.

7-3 OLD-STYLE DOUBLE LEVER

TROUBLESHOOTING

The following paragraphs provide a Iogi- ca l sequence of tests , checks, and adjustments, designed t o isolate and cor rec t a problem in t h e shi f t box operation.

The procedures and suggestions a r e keyed by number t o matching numbered illus- t ra t ions a s an a id in performing t h e work.

The two-lever shi f t boxes a r e fair ly simple in construction and operation. Seldom do they fail, c reat ing problems requiring service more than normal lubrication.

I SHIFT I

I LOCKOUT

, ! i "- /

WARM-UP \ FRICTION LEVER RUN

ADJUSTMENT POSITION

SPEED -4 RANGE

18 7 5

Single lever remote control shift box with key, choke,-and "hot horn" incorporated.

Hard Shifting or Difficult Throttle Advance

Remove t h e th ro t t l e and shift control at t h e engine. Mow, at t h e shi f t box, a t t e m p t t o move t h e th ro t t l e or shift lever. If t h e lever moves smoothly, without difficulty, t h e problem is immediately isolated t o t h e engine. At tempt t o identify if t h e problem is in t h e th ro t t l e or t h e shift side of t h e shi f t box. On engines equipped with distributor magneto or ba t t e ry ignition system, t h e problem may be in the tower shaf t between t h e connector of t h e th ro t t l e and t h e distributor advance a rm on t h e engine. On engines with a CD (capacitor discharge) system, t h e problem could be between t h e th ro t t l e arm and t h e breaker point base underneath the flywheel.

If t h e problem with shifting is a t t h e engine, t h e f i rs t place t o check is t h e a rea where t h e shift lever extends through t h e exhaust housing. The bushing may b e worn or corroded. If t h e bushing requires replacement, t h e engine powerhead must be removed. Another cause of hard shifting i s water entering t h e lower unit. In this c a s e t h e lower unit must be disassembled and t h e problem corrected. See Chapter 8.

If hard shifting is still encountered at t h e shift box when t h e controls a r e disconnected f rom t h e engine, t h e cables may b e corroded and require replacement, or lack of lubrication in t h e shi f t box has resulted in excessive wear or corrosion.

FAST SLOW ,,---,

NEUTRAL ,' '\

; \

Johnson early model double lever shift box. This box is no longer available.

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7-4 ACCESSORIES

FAST SLOW

Inner shift wire after it has been removed showing the proper type crimp necessary to hold the adjustment.

Unable to Obtain Full Shift Movement or Full Throttle

Normally, this type of problem is the result of improper shift box installation. This a rea includes connection of t h e shi f t and th ro t t l e cables in t h e shift box. If t h e stainless s teel inner wire was not heated and t h e c lamp did not hold t h e inner cab le (wire), the wire could slip inside t h e sleeve thus shortening t h e cable. Theref ore, if i t i s not possible t o obtain full shift or full throt t le , t h e shift box must b e removed, opened, and checked for proper installation work. The inner wire could also slip at t h e engine end of the control, but problems at t h a t end a r e very rare. Usually if improper installation work has been done at t h e engine end, t h e ability t o shift at all is lost, o r t h e th ro t t l e cannot be actuated.

Failure t o obtain full movement of t h e th ro t t l e or shift lever may be caused by worn or broken t ee th on t h e slider or on t h e rocker of the shift handle. This type of damage results in t h e mechanism jumping a tooth and loosing i t s "timing".

DISASSEMBLING

Removing Single-and Double Lever Shift Boxes

1- Remove the a t taching hardware securing t h e shift box t o t h e side of t h e boat. Once the shi f t box is f ree , t h e service work may be performed in t h e boat. The cables may remain as routed. Remove t h e two screws, on t h e side a t t h e rear of t h e shi f t box holding t h e two halves together. Separ- ate t h e two halves.

OBSERVE Observe how one side accommodates t h e

th ro t t l e and t h e other side t h e shift mechanism. Notice t h e plastic p la te between t h e two halves. This p la te prevents any con tac t between the shift par ts and those fo r t h e throt t le .

Throttle Half Disassembling 2- Remove t h e screw at taching t h e

th ro t t l e handle t o the shift box. Lif t t h e th ro t t l e handle and rocker f r e e of t h e shi f t box. If the handle is t o be replaced, t h e shi f t ball on t h e end of t h e handle must b e removed and SAVED because a new ball is not included with a new handle.

3- Remove the two Allen screws, securing t h e ra tchet t o t h e end of t h e shift cable,

THROTTLE LEVER / a

'\ / /

, TRUNNION

/'

GEAR TEETH

18 7 5

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DOUBLE SHIFT LEVER 7-5

and then pull t h e ra tche t f r e e of t h e cable end. Take ca re not t o lose t h e small brass sleeve.

GOOD WORDS As the ra tchet is removed f rom t h e

cable end, t ake notice of exact ly where t h e Allen screws made con tac t with the cable as an aid during installation. Remove t h e small sleeve f rom the ra tchet .

Shift Half Disassembling 4- Lif t the lever handle assembly f r e e of

t h e shi f t box. 5- Remove t h e ra tche t from t h e end of

t h e shift cable. This is accomplished by loosening t h e Allen screws in t h e sleeve and pulling t h e ra tche t f r e e of t h e cable. Take c a r e not t o lose t h e small brass sleeve.


Check t o be sure t h e t e e t h on t h e rocker of t h e shift and th ro t t l e handle a r e not worn or damaged. Inspect t h e ra tchets removed from t h e end of t h e cables. The t e e t h should not be damaged or worn excessively.

Wash t h e outside and inside of t h e sh i f t box halves with solvent and dry them thoroughly with a cloth or compressed air.

Throttle Cable Lubrication 6- If the throt t le or shi f t cables a r e not

t o be replaced, now is an excellent t ime t o lubr icate the inner wire. To lubricate t h e

GEAR SHIFT TRUNNION TEETH , HANDLE

CABLE 1

inner wire, remove t h e casing guide f rom t h e cable at both ends. At tach an e lec t r i c drill t o one end of t h e wire. Momentarily turn t h e drill on and off t o r o t a t e t h e wire and at t h e same t ime allow lubricant t o f low into t h e cable, as shown.

MSEMBLING SHIFT BOX

CRITICAL WORDS Location of the cable end is of the

utmost importance. One Allen screw mus t b e t ightened hard, until the re is a definite c r imp in t h e wire. If t h e Allen screw is not t ightened enough, t h e cable will slip in the sleeve and t h e adjustment will be lost.

1- Check t h e end of the cable t o determine if t h e temper has been removed. If t h e end has a bluish appearance, i t has been heated at an earl ier d a t e and t h e t emper removed. The temper MUST b e removed t o permit t h e holding screw t o make a cr imp in t h e wire t o hold an adjustment. If t h e &ire has not been tempered, heat t h e end, but not enough t o m e l t t h e wire. TAKE CARE not t o overheat t h e stainless s teel wire with a torch because i t has a very low melting point.

Assembling - Wire Cable to Ratchet Throttle and Shift Cables

2- Working with e i ther cable: insert t h e small sleeve onto the end of t h e ra tche t with t h e two Allen screws s ta r t ed in the sleeve. Notice how t h e sleeve has a hole

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7-6 ACCESSORIES

GEAR --. SHIFT TRUNNION TEETH , , HANDLE

completely through it. The wire MUST pass through t h e hole and protrude out t h e end of t h e ra tchet . Vdork t h e ra tche t onto t h e end of t h e cable. Continue working t h e r a t c h e t onto the cable until the inner cable end is completely through t h e ra tchet , but just flush with end surface of t h e ra tchet . Tighten one Allen screw until a definite crimp is made in the cable, then t ighten t h e other Allen screw securely.

Repeat this s t e p for t h e other cable.

3- Apply a coating of lubricant around t h e pivot point of t h e th ro t t l e lever bushing. Set t h e lever in position inside t h e box half. Install t h e washer with t h e concave side of t h e washer on t h e same side as t h e screw. Install t h e screw. Move the th ro t t l e lever back-and-forth and check for freedom of movement.

Slip t h e ra tche t and trunnion into the shift box start ing t h e last tooth on t h e th ro t t l e rocker engaged with the last tooth of t h e slider. Again, move t h e t h r o t t l e lever back-and-forth and check for freedom of movement. Check t o be sure t h e s a m e number of t e e t h a r e engaging on t h e rocker a s on t h e slider. The t ee th indexing i s extremely important and the key t o a successful installation. The ra tche t and rocker both have t h e same number of tee th . All t e e t h must be used on t h e ra tche t and rocker when the lever handle is moved t o maximum forward or af t .

THROTTLE LEVER ,,

,Q /

i

'\

1 8 7 5 GEAR \g', TEETH

Shift Half Assembling 4- Lay t h e shift r a tche t in position

inside t h e shift half of t h e box. Place t h e shi f t lever down over t h e t o p of t h e ra tchet , with t h e last tooth on t h e lever rocker engaged with t h e last tooth of the slider.

Apply a coating of light lubricant onto t h e surface of t h e gear tee th; t h e bottom and side walls of t h e ra tchet ; and onto t h e full length of t h e gear rack. Do not use a grease t h a t will harden, because t h e lubricating qualities will be lost leaving the assembly dry.

Install the divider separat ing t h e th ro t t l e and shift halves of t h e box. Bring t h e two box halves together, and then install the retaining screws. Double check operation of both levers for smoothness and no evidence of binding.

Install the shi f t box onto t h e side of the boat and secure i t in place with t h e a t taching hardware.

7-4 NEW STYLE SHIFT LEVER SERVICE

TROUBLESHOOTING

The following paragraphs provide a logical sequence of tes ts , checks, and adjustments, designed t o isolate and cor rec t a problem in t h e shi f t box operation.

The procedures and suggestions a r e keyed by number t o matching numbered illustrations as an aid in performing the work.

The two-lever shi f t boxes a r e fair ly simple in construction and operation. Seldom do they fail creat ing problems requiring service in addition t o norm a1 lubrication.

Hard Shifting or Difficult Throttle Advance

Checking Throttle Side Remove t h e th ro t t l e and shift control at

t h e engine. Now, at t h e shift box, a t t e m p t t o move the th ro t t l e or shi f t lever. If t h e

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NEW SHIFT LEVER 7-7

1- SPEED RANGE 1

Connecting a throttle cable with adjustable trunnion.

lever moves m o o t hly, without difficulty, t h e problem is immediately isolated t o the engine. At tempt to identify if t h e problem is in the th ro t t l e or the shift side of t h e shi f t box. On engines equipped with distributor magneto or ba t t e ry ignition system, t h e problem may be in t h e tower shaf t between t h e connector of t h e th ro t t l e and t h e distributor advance arm on t h e engine. On engines with a CD (capacitor discharge) system, t h e problem could be between t h e th ro t t l e arm and the breaker point base underneath the flywheel.

If the problem with shifting is at t h e engine, t h e first place to check is t h e a r e a where the shift lever extends through t h e exhaust housing. The bushing may be worn, or corroded. If the bushing requires replacement, t h e engine powerhead must be removed, see Chapter 3. Another cause of hard shift ing is water entering t h e lower unit. In this case the lower unit must be disassembled, see Chapter 8.

If hard shifting i s still encountered at t h e shift box when t h e controls a r e disconnected from the engine, t h e cables may b e corroded and require replacement, or lack of lubrication in t h e shi f t box has resulted in excessive wear or corrosion.

Unable to Obtain Full Shift Movement or Full Throttle

Normally, th is type of problem is t h e result of improper shift box installation.

Attaching a shift cable, with non-adjustable trunnion, to the shift arm.

I NEUTRAL ------ I , .

FAST ) SLOW ---- :-. ..---,

,I -. , I

! 1

1 SHIFT RANGE 4 1 8 7 2

Double lever shift box installed with manual shift lower unit engines. This shift box is still in use and parts are available from OMC dealers.

This a r e a includes connection of t h e shi f t and th ro t t l e cables in t h e shi f t box. If t h e stainless s teel inner wire was not heated and t h e clamp did not hold the inner cable (wire), t h e wire could slip inside t h e s leeve and t h e cable would be shortened. There- fore, if i t is not possible t o obtain full shi f t or full throt t le , t h e shi f t box must be removed, opened, and checked for proper instal lat ion work. The inner wire could also slip at t h e engine end of t h e control, bu t problems at t h a t end a r e very rare. Usually if improper installation work has been done at the engine end, t h e abil i ty t o shi f t at a l l is lost , or t h e th ro t t l e cannot b e actuated.

Wire extended too far through the cable connector (slider). The end of the wire should be flush with the slider surface.

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7-8 ACCESSORIES

REMOVAL

Removing Double Lever Shift Box 1- Remove t h e a t taching hardware se-

curing t h e shift box t o t h e side of t h e boat. Once t h e shift box is f ree , t h e service work may be performed in the boat. The cables may remain as routed. Remove t h e two screws, at the rear side of t h e shift box, holding t h e two halves toget her. Separate t h e two halves.

OBSERVE Observe how one side accommodates t h e

th ro t t l e and t h e other side t h e shift mechanism. Notice t h e metal p la te between t h e two halves. This p la te prevents any con tac t between the shift par ts and those for t h e thrott le. Notice t h e fr ict ion screw and th ro t t l e s top on t h e th ro t t l e side of t h e box.

The shift side of t h e box does not have any adjustments, except for the low idle stop. Observe how t h e shift lever pivots a t t h e bottom and the th ro t t l e lever pivots at t h e top.

DISASSEM BLIMG

Throttle Half 2- Remove t h e screw from t h e cen te r of

t h e throt t le lever. Notice how t h e washer has a concave side t o allow the screw t o f i t flush with t h e washer. Loosen t h e screw on t h e top side of t h e shift box t o rel ieve

Divider plate to separate the shift half components from the throttle half parts inside the control: box.

pressure on t h e anti- friction knob. Lif t t h e lever and throt t le cable f r e e of t h e shift box. Notice how t h e cable on t h e trunnion has two small caps --one on t h e underside and t h e other on top.

3- Loosen the two screws securing t h e gear rack t o t h e end of t h e th ro t t l e cab le and remove t h e end of t h e cable from the th ro t t l e lever. Take c a r e not t o lose t h e

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NEW SHIFT LEVER 7-9

5- Loosen t h e two screws securing t h e gear rack t o the end of t h e th ro t t l e cable and remove t h e end of t h e cable f rom t h e th ro t t l e lever. Take c a r e not t o lose t h e small sleeve f rom t h e end of t h e rack t o which the screws were attached. Push o u t t h e cen te r square button, and then remove t h e rack f rom the shi f t lever.


Check t h e nylon wear block on t h e end of t h e anti- friction cap. The c a p has t e e t h which index into t h e inside diameter of t h e th ro t t l e lever. If t h e t ee th a r e damaged a new block may be purchased and slipped into place. Clean t h e box halves thoroughly inside and ou t with solvent, and then dry them with compressed air. Inspect t h e spring on the anti- friction lever t o be sure i t is not distorted. Check t h e screw on t h e th ro t t l e idle s top t o ensure i t moves in and o u t f reely without any sign of binding.

small sleeve from t h e end of the rack t o which t h e screws were a t tached. Push o u t Throttle Cable Lubrication

t h e center square button, and then remove If t h e th ro t t l e or shift cables a r e not t o

t h e rack from t h e shift lever. b e replaced, now is an excellent t i m e t o lubr icate t h e inner wire.

Shift Half Disassembling 6- To lubricate the inner wire, remove

4- Remove the screw and washer from t h e casing guide f rom t h e cable at both

t h e bottom of t h e shift lever. Notice how ends. At tach an e lec t r i c drill t o one end of

th is washer also has a concave side t o accommodate t h e screw. Lif t t h e lever and shif t cable f r e e of the shi f t box. Notice how t h e cable on t h e trunnion has two small caps -- one on t h e underside and t h e other on top.

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7- 10 ACCESSORIES

t h e wire. Momentarily turn t h e drill on and off t o ro ta te the wire and at t h e same t i m e allow lubricant t o flow into t h e cable, as shown.

ASSEMBLING

Throttle Cable into Shift Box 1- If t h e slider sleeve was removed f rom

t h e th ro t t l e lever, install t h e ra tche t in to t h e throt t le lever with the hole on t h e end for securing t h e th ro t t l e cable on t h e oppo- s i t e end of the hole t h a t accommodates t h e cable. Position t h e center of t h e r a t c h e t with the center of t h e throt t le lever. Install t h e square nylon plug with t h e holes in t h e plug in a vertical position t o permit t h e cable t o slide through. Two different s i ze screws, or possibly Allen screws, a r e used on each end of t h e sleeve. Install t h e shor t screw into the bottom of the sleeve t o prevent t h e sleeve from rubbing on t h e sh i f t box. Install t h e longer screw on t h e t o p par t of t h e sleeve. Install t h e sleeve with t h e hole in t h e sleeve aligned with t h e hole for t h e cable.

CRITICAL WORDS Check t h e end of t h e cable t o determine

if t h e temper has been removed. If t h e end

I N S E R T PULLED OUT CASING GUIDE

0

has a bluish appearance, i t has been heated at an earlier da te and t h e temper removed. The temper MUST be removed t o permit t h e holding screw t o make a c r imp in t h e wire t o hold an adjustment. If t h e wire has not been tempered, heat t h e end, but not enough t o m e l t t h e wire.

2- Slide t h e cable into t h e ra tchet . Work t h e inner wire in to t h e sleeve and out t h e end of the ra tchet . Push t h e wire back until t h e end is flush with t h e ra tche t sur- f ace. Tighten t h e TOP holding screw enough t o make a definite cr imp in t h e wire, a s shown. If this screw is not t ightened t o make t h e crimp, t h e wire will slip during operation and the adjustment will b e lost. Af te r t h e top screw has been fully tightened, bring t h e other screw up t ight against t h e wire. It is not necessary fo r th is second screw t o make a cr imp in t h e wire.

3- Work t h e th ro t t l e lever handle down over t h e fr ict ion nylon block and at t h e s a m e t ime feed t h e th ro t t l e cable into place in t h e box half. Check t o b e sure one of t h e small caps is on the bottom side of the trunnion. Install t h e washer and t h e screw with the concave side of t h e washer on the same side as t h e screw. Tighten t h e screw securely. Install t h e other trunnion c a p on top of t h e trunnion. Check t h e th ro t t l e lever for ease of movement with no sign of binding.

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NEW SHIFT LEVER 7- 1 1

Shift Cable into Shift Box 4- If t h e slider sleeve was removed f rom

t h e shift lever, install t h e slider sleeve into t h e shift lever with t h e hole on t h e end fo r securing t h e shift cable on t h e opposite end of t h e hole t h a t will accommodate t h e cable. Position the center of t h e slide with t h e center of t h e shift lever. Install t h e square nylon plug with t h e holes in the plug in a vert ical position to permit t h e cable t o slide through. Two dif ferent s ize screws a r e used on each end of t h e sleeve. Install t h e shor t screw into t h e bottom of t h e sleeve t o prevent t h e sleeve from rubbing on t h e shi f t box. Install the longer screw on t h e t o p par t of t h e sleeve. Install t h e sleeve with t h e hole in t h e sleeve aligned with t h e hole fo r t h e cable.

CRITICAL WORDS Check t h e end of the cable t o determine

if t h e temper has been removed. If t h e end has a bluish appearance, it has been heated at an earl ier da te and t h e temper removed. The temper MUST be removed t o permit t h e holding screw t o make a c r imp in t h e wire t o hold an adjustment. If the wire has not

been tempered, h e a t t h e end, but not enough t o m e l t t h e wire.

Slide the cable into the ra tchet . Work t h e inner wire into t h e sleeve and out t h e end of t h e ra tchet . Push the wire back until t h e end is flush with t h e ra tche t surface. Tighten the TOP holding screw enough t o make a definite cr imp in t h e wire, a s shown. If this screw is not tightened t o make t h e crimp, t h e wire will slip during operation and t h e adjustment will be lost. After t h e top screw has been fully tightened, bring t h e other screw up t ight against t h e wire. I t is not necessary for this second screw t o make a crimp in the wire.

5- Place the wavy washer and regular washer in to t h e shi f t box, and then work t h e shi f t lever handle down into the shi f t box with one of t h e small caps under t h e shi f t cable trunnion. Install the bushing into t h e bottom of t h e shi f t handle. Install t h e washer and t h e screw with the concave side

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7- 1 2 ACCESSOR l ES

of t h e washer on t h e s a m e side a s t h e screw. Tighten the screw securely. Install t h e other trunnion c a p on top of t h e trunnion. Check t h e shift lever for e a s e of movement with no sign of binding.

6- Place t h e meta l separator between t h e two halves. Bring the two halves together and secure them with t h e two screws f rom the back side. Install t h e box in the boat and secure i t in place with t h e a t taching hardware. Again check t h e levers fo r ease of movement and no sign of binding.

7-5 ELECTRIC GEAR BOXES AND SINGLE LEVER CONTROL JOHNSON UNITS

The e lect r ic gear box, with a single lever control was installed with engines having t h e standard type of exhaust system and also with those equipped with t h e propeller exhaust.

The engines used with this shi f t arrangement and having t h e standard exhaust are:

75 hp, V4 -- 1962 t o 1965 80 hp, V4 -- 1966 and 1967 85 hp, V4 -- 1968 90 hp, V4 -- 1964 and 1965

100 hp, V4 -- 1966 t o 1968

Engines used with th is shift ar rangement and having t h e propeller exhaust are:

55 hp, 3-cyl. -- 1968 and 1969 85 hp, V4 -- 1969

115 hp, V4 -- 1969

The following troubleshooting procedures cover th is shift mechanism installed with engines equipped with e i ther t h e standard o r propeller exhaust systems. Where t h e test differs for t h e propeller exhaust, t h e dif- f erence is clearly indicated.

TROUBLESHOOTING

The following paragraphs provide a logical sequence of tes ts , checks, and adjustments, designed t o isolate and cor rec t a problem in t h e Johnson single lever shi f t box with the warmup lever t o the rear and t h e Evinrude single lever pushbutton shift box operation.

The procedures and suggestions a r e key- e d by number t o matching numbered illustrations as an aid in performing t h e work.

FULL ADVANCE FIRST CLAMP &/ N O S L A C K \;, EIAY VARY 33" TO 42"

A, _$ SLACK

1- Difficult Shift Operation Many t imes this type of problem is t h e

result of incorrect cable installation -- t h e cable is not t h e proper length or the re a r e too many bends or kinks in the routing. Such an installation will cause t h e inner cable t o travel much fu r the r than necessary and therefore , wear on t h e outer cable. Over a period of t ime, inner cable wear will result in difficult shifting or th ro t t l e operation.

BE SURE t o cycle t h e shi f t lever t o t h e f ull position in both directions, when making any t es t on t h e shi f t box. The shif t switch may have a dead spot and will not indicate t h e switch is defect ive unless t h e shi f t lever is fully cycled for each tes t .

2- Amp Draw Tes t Turn the ignition switch t o t h e O N posi-

tion and note t h e a m m e t e r reading. Now, opera te the shi f t control lever t o t h e FOR- WARD, NEUTRAL, and then t o t h e RE- VERSE position. Note how much t h e am- m e t e r reading increased each t i m e t h e sh i f t lever was moved. If t h e reading was more than 2.5 amperes for any of t h e th ree shi f t positions, continue with the following checks. If t h e boat is not equipped with a n ampere gauge, then temporari ly disconnect t h e GREEN and BROWN (or RED) wires f rom the back side of t h e key switch and

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ELECTRIC SHIFT BOX 7-1 3

t emporar i ly ins ta l l a n a m p gauge f o r t h e test. Rep lace t h e wires a f t e r t h e test i s comple ted .

Disconnect t h e sh i f t l eads at t h e r e a r of t h e engine. Temporar i ly l ay a p iece of c lo th o r o the r insulat ing ma te r i a l under t h e wires t o p reven t t h e m f r o m shor t ing o u t during t h e following tests.

Standard Prop. Models Again o p e r a t e t h e sh i f t l eve r and n o t e

t h e cu r ren t loss. If t h e cu r ren t d raw is s t i l l m o r e than 2.5 amperes , t hen check f o r a shor t in t h e cont ro l box switch o r wiring. If t h e c u r r e n t draw is normal with t h e l e a d s d isconnected f r o m t h e engine, t h e n check f o r a shor t in t h e g e a r case coil(s) o r wiring. If t h e coil leads a r e sho r t ed t o e a c h o t h e r , bo th sh i f t co i l s would be energized, s ta l l ing t h e engine or causing serious d a m a g e t o t h e driveshaf t.

Propeller Exhaust Models Enpines equipped with t h e prop. exhaus t

sys t em, have t w o sh i f t solenoids instal led in t h e l o v e r unit. A check s f t h e s e solenoids is presented in t h e next test.

% Shift C ~ i l Tests Standard Exhaust Test ing t h e shif t ing cccils is accompl ished

by f i r s t disccannecting t h e wires a t t h e r ea r of t h e en r ine . P'ext, c o n m c t a n ~ h m m e t e r f i r s t tc m e sh i f t coil l ead and ground, and then t o the o t h e r ir, t h e s a m e manner . A rezdin? of m o r e than 4.5 t o 6.5 ohms indi- c a t e s a sho r t in t h e coil or lead. F b reading at ell i n r k a t e s an s a e n c i rcui t . If t h e resul ts of th is test ind ica t e a. sho r t in t h e c i rcu i t , t h e Icwer unit mus t b e disassembl-

ed , inspec ted , and serv iced , to c o r r e c t t h e problem, see C h a p t e r 8.

Solenoid Tests Obta in a n ohmmete r . A t t h e r e a r of t h e

engine, d isconnect t h e g reen and blue wires at t h e kni fe disconnect . S e t t h e o h m m e t e r t o t h e low scale. C o n n e c t o n e l ead t o t h e g reen wire t o t h e lower unit , a n d t h e o t h e r l ead t o a good ground. T h e m e t e r should ind ica t e 5 t o 7 ohms. C o n n e c t t h e m e t e r t o t h e blue wire t o t h e lower uni t and ground. T h e m e t e r should again indica te f r o m 5 t o 7 ohms.

BAD NEWS If t h e unit f a i l s t h e o h m m e t e r tests just

out l ined, t h e only course of ac t ion is t o disassemble t h e lower uni t to d e t e r m i n e and c o r r e c t t h e problem.

4- Testing Shift Switch - Forward Standard Exhaust

T o test t h e switch f o r t h e FORWARD position, m a k e c o n t a c t with one probe of a cont inui ty m e t e r (or a test l ight) t o t h e t e rmina l (purple o r red lead) and t o t h e fo rward (green lead) t e rmina l wi th t h e o t h e r probe. Now, move t h e sh i f t lever t o t h e FORWARD position. T h e m e t e r should indicate cont inui ty (or t h e test l ight c o m e on), when t h e sh i f t lever i s in t h e FORWARD position.

Propeller Exhaust To test t h e switch f o r t h e FORWARD

position, m a k e c o n t a c t with one probe of a cont inui ty m e t e r , o r test l ight , to t h e purple or red lead terminal . Make c o n t a c t

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7- 14 ACCESSORIES

with the other meter probe t o t h e blue or green wire terminal. Move t h e shi f t lever into the FORWARD position. The test light should NOT come on, or t h e m e t e r indicate continuity. If t h e l ight comes on, t h e switch has a short.

5- Testing Shift Switch - Reverse Engines with Standard Exhaust

To test the shift switch for reverse, make contact with one probe of a continuity mete r (or t e s t light), t o the terminal (purple or red lead) and t o t h e reverse terminal (blue lead) with the other probe. Move t h e shift lever t o t h e REVERSE position.

The meter should indicate continuity (or t h e t e s t light come on), when t h e lever is in t h e reverse position.

(FORWARD). Continuity should not be indica ted when t h e shi f t handle is in NEUTRAL. If the switch is defect ive and requires replacement, procedures a r e presented in th is

Engines with Propeller Exhaust section under Disassembling. To test the shift switch fo r REVERSE,

make contact with one probe of a continuity Engines with Propeller Exhaust meter (or t e s t light), t o purple or red lead After t h e forward and reverse t e s t s have

and with the other probe to the been completed, check for continuity with blue lead reverse terminal. Move t h e shift the shift lever in the lever to the REVERSE P ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ * The meter Leave one probe of t h e m e t e r or t e s t light should indicate continuity or t h e test light connected to the red lead terminal, Make come One. Move the One probe

con tac t with t h e other probe t o t h e green the lead to the green lead lead coming f rom t h e shi f t box. The meter terminal. The m e t e r should again indicate should indicate continuity or the light should continuity or t h e t e s t l ight should c o m e on. c o m e on. Test t h e blue wire in a similar

6- Testing Shift Switch - Neutral Engines with standard Exhaust

After t h e forward and reverse tests have been completed check for continuity with t h e shift lever in t h e NEUTRAL position. Leave the red lead connected and check t h e blue lead (REVERSE) and t h e green lead

manner. Continuity should NOT be indicat- e d or t h e l ight should not c o m e on.

7- Cranking System Inoperative If the s t a r t e r fa i ls t o crank t h e engine,

check t o be sure t h e th ro t t l e lever is in t h e idle position. If the th ro t t l e is advanced more than 114 forward, t h e cutout switch a t t ached t o t h e breaker or distributor p la te will open t h e circuit t o t h e s t a r t e r solenoid. If the cranking system fails t o operate the

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ELECTRIC SHIFT BOX 7-15

s ta r t e r properly when t h e th ro t t l e lever is in t h e IDLE position, check t h e 20-ampere fuse between t h e ignition switch BAT terminal and t h e ammete r GEN terminal.

If t h e s t a r t e r operates in full t h r o t t l e (which i t should not do), check fo r a short between t h e two white leads in t h e shi f t box wiring, o r in the wiring harness under t h e dash.

Further problems in t h e cranking system may indicate more serious problems. See Chapter 6 , s ta r t e r motor sections.

DISASSEMBLING

GOOD WORDS On Johnson units, a frict ion screw is

installed in t h e bottom side of t h e shi f t box. This screw allows frict ion adjustment of t h e th ro t t l e handle. This arrangement prevents t h e th ro t t l e handle from "creeping" a f t e r t h e operator releases his grip on t h e handle. The box has a maximum advance screw. The adjustment is made through movement of a screw in the warmup lever. If the engine shuts down when t h e th ro t t l e lever i s moved back, then an adjustment must be made at t h e engine. This is accomplished through an adjustment knob at the engine. Movement of th is knob will actually length- e n or shorten t h e cable slightly fo r proper operation.

EXTREME OPPOS l TE

FRONT POS ITION

n

l DLE POSITION

1- Remove t h e a t taching screws; pull t h e shi f t box clear; and then disconnect t h e shi f t wire under the dash. Remove t h e screws f rom t h e back side of t h e box.

2- CAREFULLY separate t h e two halves. Check t h e shift box fo r sa l t wa te r corrosion, worn bushings, and general condition.

Throttle Cable Notice how the th ro t t l e cable en te r s t h e

th ro t t l e half of t h e shi f t box through t h e idle link. On t h e t o p side of t h e shi f t box, observe t h e screw and t h e concave washer. The washer must be installed with t h e concave side towards t h e screw t o allow t h e screw t o seat properly.

3- Remove t h e bushing f rom t h e shift rod. Observe t h e two slots in t h e bushing and how the f l a t a rea without a hole f a c e s toward you. The bushing must be installed in this s a m e position.

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4- Remove t h e screw and washer f rom t h e top of t h e shift box half. This is t h e screw and washer described in t h e previous paragraph. Lif t ou t t h e cam lever and t h e idle link as an assembly.

5- Remove t h e screws f rom t h e end of t h e sleeve on t h e end of t h e cable, and then pull t h e th ro t t l e cable f r e e of t h e link and sleeve.

6- If the switch fa i ls t o check out , a s described in t h e previous tes ts , t h e switch and cable assembly MUST b e replaced. The switch is easily removed by simply removing t h e a t taching screws and l if t ing t h e switch f r e e of t h e shift box.


Clean t h e box halves thoroughly inside and o u t with soIvent and blow them dry with compressed air. Apply a thin c o a t of engine oil on d l metal parts. The three-position switch installed in t h e gear box cannot b e repaired. Therefore, if a problem is isolated t o t h e switch, i t must be replaced.

SHORT CABLE CAM

SHORT ANCHOR CONTROL SCREW GU l DE

The shift switch need not be removed unless it is unfit for further service. Work the switch backand- forth to be sure it is operating properly. A continuity check must also be performed to verify its condition.

Interior view of a used shift box showing the results of an improper installation. The inner wire was not crimped to hold the adjustment. The wire, therefore, slipped through and was bent as the casting struck the shift box during operation.

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ELECTRIC SHIFT BOX 7- 17

Shift switch removed. A new switch will have the wiringand female plug attached.

Inner shift wire after it has been removed, showing the proper type crimp necessary to hold the adjustment.

Throttle Cable Lubrication If t h e th ro t t l e cable is not t o be replac-

ed, now is an excellent t i m e t o lubricate t h e inner wire.

7- To lubricate the inner wire, remove t h e casing guide f rom t h e cable at both ends. At tach an e lec t r i c drill t o one end of t h e wire. Momentarily turn t h e drill on and off t o r o t a t e t h e wire and at t h e s a m e t i m e allow lubricant t o flow into t h e cable, as shown.

ASSEMBLING

CRITICAL WORDS Check t h e end of t h e cable t o determine

if t h e temper has been removed. If t h e end has a bluish appearance, i t has been heated at an earlier da te and t h e temper removed. The temper MUST b e removed t o permit t h e holding screw t o make a cr imp in t h e wire t o hold an adjustment. If the wire has not been tempered, hea t t h e end, but not enough t o m e l t the wire.

Tighten t h e t o p screw in the sleeve until t h e screw makes a cr imp in t h e wire. The screw must be tightened t o this degree t o prevent t h e wire f rom slipping during operation. Bring the bottom screw up t ight against t h e wire.

4 l NN ER WIRE

I

1- S t a r t t h e two cable retaining screws into t h e sleeve. These screws a r e di f ferent sizes. On some models, Allen screws a r e used. Install t h e short screw on t h e bottom t o prevent t h e sleeve f rom rubbing on t h e shi f t box. Slide the sleeve onto the cable with t h e hole aligned with t h e hole in t h e plastic sleeve. Feed the wire on through until t h e end of t h e wire is flush with t h e end of t h e white plastic sleeve.

2- Lower t h e shift link and th ro t t l e link in to the box half and secure t h e th ro t t l e link with t h e screw and washer. Check t o b e sure the concave side of t h e washer is facing toward t h e screw side t o permit t h e screw t o seat properly.

3- Slide the th ro t t l e cable through the idle link, and then slide t h e bushing down over t h e cable.

#. . .. SHORT CABLE

CLAMP f i \

SHORT CABLE CAM

THRO'ITLE

SHORT ANCHOR CONTROL SCREW GU l DE

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7- 1 8 ACCESSOR I ES

4- ALWAYS TAKE CARE when assembling t h e shift box, not t o damage t h e remote-control unit. The arm on t h e switch MUST lay in t h e cutout portion of t h e throt- t l e cam.

5- Carefully work t h e two halves of t h e box together with t h e cam lever f i t t ing i n t o t h e recess of the throt t le handle and the th ro t t l e link f i t t ing into t h e warmup lever.

6- Secure t h e two halves together with t h e screws into t h e side of t h e box. Secure t h e shift box t o t h e side of t h e boat with t h e at taching hardware. Bolts with self-locking nuts SHOULD ALWAYS BE USED because a loose shift box during high speed operation could be extremely dangerous. Connect t h e shift wire under t h e dash.

FRO NT

'i EXTREME OPPOS lTE

POSITION

l DLE POSITION

7- The tension of t h e th ro t t l e lever is adjusted by t h e fr ict ion knob under t h e shi f t box. Turn t h e knob CLOCKWISE t o increase fr ict ion and COUNTERCLOCKWISE t o de- c rease friction.

8- Remote-Control Cable Installation In the Boat

The remote-control cable must be installed properly f o r sa t is factory operation. The clamp nearest t h e shift box MUST be positioned correctly a s follows:

First , move t h e warmup lever on the shi f t box t o full advance. Now, measure 36" (9 1.44 cm), actually this measurement could range f rom 33" t o 42" (83.82 c m t o 106.68 cm), on t h e cable from t h e shift box. BE SURE the re is no slack in t h e cable, and then secure the clamp t o the boat at t h e measured position.

Next, place t h e warmup lever in t h e slow position and observe t h e amount of slack in t h e cable between t h e shi f t box and t h e f i rs t clamp. The slack should not be more than

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112" (12.7 mm). AVOID SHARP TURNS in t h e cable. The radius of any bend MUST not b e less than 5" (12.7 cm).

ALWAYS use the cor rec t length of cable when replacing t h e assembly.

9- Adjusting Starter Lockout Switch Move t h e shift lever t o t h e NEUTRAL

position and the warmup lever t o t h e START position. Now, turn t h e ignition switch t o t h e START position in an a t t e m p t t o crank t h e engine. If t h e s t a r t e r fails t o crank t h e engine, move the warmup lever t o t h e IDLE position, and then r o t a t e t h e se tscrew COUNTERCLOCKWISE one-half turn. Move t h e auxiliary th ro t t l e t o t h e START position, and then turn t h e ignition switch t o the START position again. If t h e s t a r t e r still f a i l s t o crank the engine with t h e warmup lever in t h e full ADVANCE position, back off t h e warmup lever t o determine t h e point at which t h e s t a r t e r ceases t o operate. Make the adjustment of the se tscrew CLOCKWISE, a half-turn at a t ime, until t h e s t a r t e r operates only with the warmup lever in t h e full START position.

H FULL YVANCE FIRST CLAMP \

NO SLACK

HAY VARY 33" TO 42"

PUSHBUTTON SHIFT BOX 7-19

7-6 PUSHBUTTON SHIFT BOX SERVICE EVINRUDE UNITS ONLY

GOOD WORDS A frict ion screw is installed in t h e bot-

tom side of t h e shift box. This screw allows frict ion adjustment of the th ro t t l e handle. This ar rangement prevents t h e th ro t t l e handle from "creeping" a f t e r t h e operator releases his grip on t h e handle. A thumb- screw on the f ron t of the box permits adjustment of t h e th ro t t l e handle t o prevent movement past a sa t is factory idle position and subsequent shutdown of t h e engine. If adequate adjustment cannot be made at t h e shi f t box, and t h e engine continues t o shut down when t h e th ro t t l e lever is moved back, then an adjustment must be made at t h e engine. This is accomplished through an adjustment knob at t h e engine. Movement of t h e engine knob will actually lengthen or shorten t h e cable slightly fo r proper operation.

The pushbutton shift box was installed with engines having t h e standard type of exhaust system and also with those equipped with t h e propeller exhaust.

The engines used with this shi f t arrangement and having t h e standard exhaust are:

75 hp, V4 -- 1962 t o 1965 80 hp, V4 -- 1966 and 1967 85 hp, V4 -- 1968 90 ho, V4 -- 1964 and 1965

100 hp, V4 -- 1966 t o 1968

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7-20 ACCESSORIES

Engines used with this shift ar rangement and having t h e propeller exha la t are:

55 hp, 3-cyl. -- 1968 and 1969 85 hp, V 4 -- 1969

115 hp, V 4 -- 1969

The following troubleshooting procedures cover th is shi f t mechanism installed with engines equipped with e i ther t h e standard or propeller exhaust systems. Where t h e t e s t differs for the propeller exhaust, t h e difference is clearly indicated.

TROUBLESHOOTING

The following paragraphs provide a logical sequence of tests, checks, and adjustments, designed t o isolate and cor rec t a problem in t h e Evinrude single lever shi f t box with the warmup lever t o t h e rear. The procedures may also be used f o r troubleshooting t h e Evinrude single lever pushbutton shi f t box operation.

The procedures and suggestions a r e keyed by number t o matching numbered illus- t ra t ions as an aid in performing t h e work.

Many t imes this type of problem is t h e result of incorrect cable installation -- t h e cable is not t h e proper length or the re a r e too many bends or kinks in the routing. Such an installation will cause t h e inner cable t o travel much fur ther than necessary and therefore , wear on t h e ou te r cable. Over a period of t ime, inner cable wear will result in difficult shifting or th ro t t l e operation.

BE SURE t o cycle all th ree shift pushbuttons t o t h e .full sh i f t position in both directions, when making any t e s t on t h e shi f t box. The shift switch may have a dead spot and will not indicate t h e switch is defective unless t h e t h r e e buttons a r e fully cycled for each test.

I- Amp Draw T e s t Turn t h e ignition switch t o t h e ON posi-

tion and note t h e ammete r reading. Now,

depress t h e shift button for t h e FORWARD, NEUTRAL, and then for t h e REVERSE position. Note how much t h e ammete r reading increased each t ime a shif t button was depressed. If t h e reading was more than 2.5 amperes for any one of t h e shi f t positions, continue with the following checks. If the boat is not equipped with an ampere gauge, then temporari ly disconnect t h e GREEN and BROWN (or RED) wires from t h e back side of the key switch and temporari ly install an a m p gauge f o r t h e test . Replace t h e wires a f t e r t h e t e s t is completed.

Disconnect t h e shift leads at t h e rear of t h e engine. Temporarily lay a piece of cloth or o ther insulating mater ia l under t h e wires t o prevent them from shorting ou t during t h e following tests. Standard Shif t

Again operate t h e shi f t buttons and note t h e current loss. If t h e current draw is still more than 2.5 amperes, then check fo r a shor t in t h e control box switch or wiring. If t h e current draw is normal with t h e leads disconnected from t h e engine, then check f o r a short in t h e gear case coil(s) or wiring. If t h e coil leads a r e shorted t o each other , both shift coils would b e energized, stalling t h e engine or causing serious damage t o t h e dr iveshaf t.

Propeller Exhaust Engines equipped with t h e propeller ex-

haust system, have two shift solenoids in- s ta l led in t h e lower unit. A check of these solenoids is presented in t h e second half of t h e next tes t .

2- Shif t Coil Tests Standard Exhaust Testing t h e shifting coils is accomplished

by f i rs t disconnecting t h e wires at the rear

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of t h e engine. Next, connect an ohmmeter f i r s t t o one shift coil lead and ground, and then t o t h e other in t h e s a m e manner. A reading of more than 4.5 t o 6.5 ohms indicates a short in t h e coil or lead. No reading at all indicates an open circuit. If the results of this test indicate a shor t in t h e circuit , t h e lower unit must be disassembled and inspected. See Chapter 8.

Shif t Solenoids - Propeller Exhaust Testing t h e shift solenoids is accomplish-

e d by f i rs t disconnecting t h e blue and green wires running t o t h e lower unit at t h e rea r of t h e engine. Next, connect an ohmmeter f i rs t t o one solenoid lead and ground, and then t o t h e other in the same manner. A reading of more than 5.0 t o 7.0 ohms indi- c a t e s a short in the solenoid or lead. No reading at all indicates an open circuit . If t h e results of this t e s t indicate a short in t h e circuit , t h e lower unit must b e disassembled and inspected, see Chapter 8.

GOOD WORDS Before t h e following shif t tests a r e per-

formed, t h e shift wires under t h e dash must be disconnected at t h e quick-disconnect f i t- ting.

3- Testing Shif t Switch - Forward Engines with Standard Exhaust

To test the switch for the FORWARD position, make contact with one probe of a continuity meter (or a test light) t o the terminal (purple or red lead) and t o t h e forward (green lead) terminal with t h e other probe. Now, depress each pushbutton f o r t h e FORWARD, NEUTRAL, and REVERSE positions. The m e t e r should indicate continuity (or t h e test l ight comes on), when t h e

FORWARD button is depressed, and indicates an open circuit , for t h e other two shift positions.

Engines with Propeller Exhaust To test t h e switch f o r t h e FORWARD

position, make con tac t with one probe of a continuity m e t e r (or test light) t o t h e purple o r red lead terminal and t o the neutral green lead terminal with t h e other probe. Depress the FORWARD pushbutton. The m e t e r should NOT indicate continuity while t h e FORWARD pushbu t ton is depressed.

4- Testing Shif t Switch - Reverse Engines with Standard Exhaust

To t es t t h e shift switch f o r REVERSE, make c o n t a c t with one probe of a continuity m e t e r (or t e s t light), t o t h e purple or red lead terminal and t o t h e reverse blue lead terminal with t h e other probe. Again, depress t h e FORWARD, NEUTRAL, and RE- VERSE pushbu ttons.

The mete r should indicate continuity (or t h e test light come on), f o r t h e REVERSE position and indicate an open circuit , in t h e other two.

Engines with Propeller Exhaust To test t h e shift switch fo r REVERSE,

make contact with one probe of a continuity m e t e r (or test light), t o purple or red lead terminal and with t h e other probe t o t h e blue lead reverse terminal. Depress the REVERSE pushbutton. The m e t e r should indicate continuity or t h e t e s t l ight should come on. Move t h e one probe f rom t h e blue lead terminal t o the green lead terminal. The m e t e r should again indicate continuity o r t h e test light should c o m e on.

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7-22 ACCESSORIES

5- Testing Shift Switch - Neutral Engines with Standard Exhaust

After t h e forward and reverse t e s t s have been completed check for continuity with t h e NEUTRAL pushbutton. Leave t h e red lead connected and check the blue lead (REVERSE) and t h e green lead (FORWARD). Continuity should not be indicated when t h e NEUTRAL pushbutton is depressed.

If the switch is defective and requires replacement, procedures a r e presented in this section under Disassembling.

Engines with Propeller Exhaust After t h e forward and reverse t e s t s have

been completed, check for continuity with t h e pushbutton depressed for t h e NEUTRAL position. Leave one probe of t h e m e t e r o r test light connected t o t h e red lead terminal. Make contact with t h e other probe t o t h e green lead coming from t h e shi f t box. The mete r should indicate continuity or t h e l ight should come on. Continuity should not be indicated when t h e probe is making contact with t h e blue wire.

6- Cranking System Inoperative If the s t a r t e r fai ls t o crank t h e engine,

check t o be sure t h e th ro t t l e lever is in t h e idle position. If the throt t le is advanced more than 114 forward, t h e cutout switch

NEUTRAL BUTTON

ARD I REVERSE

a t t ached t o t h e a rmature pla te will open t h e circuit t o t h e s t a r t e r solenoid. If t h e cranking system fa i ls t o opera te t h e s t a r t e r properly when t h e th ro t t l e lever is in t h e IDLE position, check t h e 20-ampere fuse between t h e ignition switch BAT terminal and t h e ammete r GEN terminal.

If t h e s t a r t e r operates at full t h r o t t l e (which i t should not do), check for a short between t h e two white leads in t h e shi f t box wiring, or in the wiring harness under t h e dash.

Further problems in t h e cranking system may indicate more serious problems. See Chapter 6, s t a r t e r motor sections.

DISASSEMBLING

The th ro t t l e cable and switch box may be replaced without removing t h e shi f t box f rom the boat. If the only service t o be performed is replacement of t h e cable, leave t h e shift box in place.

1- Remove t h e Phillips screws on t h e side plate of the shift box. Remove t h e f ron t side cover.

SCREW &PLACES

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2- Notice t h e screw and retainer at t h e forward end of t h e casing guide and just below t h e th ro t t l e lever. Remove t h e screw and retainer. Pull t h e th ro t t l e cable and casing guide f r e e of the shift box. Take ca re not t o lose t h e trunnion caps, one on t h e t o p and another on t h e bottom.

3- Remove t h e screws from t h e end of t h e casing guide and then pull t h e th ro t t l e cable f ree . TAKE CARE not t o lose t h e screws and sleeve from t h e end of t h e guide.

Shift Switch Removal 4- Remove t h e four Phillips screws f rom

t h e top of t h e shi f t box, and then l if t off t h e shi f t box cover around t h e push buttons.

5- Pull upward and remove t h e th ree shi f t buttons. New buttons a r e not supplied with replacement switches. Therefore, SAVE t h e THREE BUTTONS fo r installation with the new switch.

6- Pull the red, green, and blue wires f rom t h e bottom of t h e switch box.

7- Notice t h e two small Phillips screws on top of t h e switch box holding t h e switch t o t h e retainer. Remove these two screws.

8- Work t h e switch out of t h e switch box.

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7-24 ACCESSORIES


and secure i t in place with t h e two Phillips screws. Check t o be sure t h e two terminals on the bottom side of t h e switch a r e towards you. This will place t h e forward button closest t o t h e th ro t t l e handle.

2- Install t h e two small Phillips screws Clean the box halves thoroughly inside into the top the shift box* These

and out with solvent and blow them drv with screws secure t h e switch box t o t h e retain-

compressed air. Apply a thin c o a t of engine oil o n all me ta l parts. The three-position switch installed in the gear box cannot be repaired. Therefore, if a problem is isolated t o t h e switch, i t must be replaced.

Throttle Cable Lubrication If the th ro t t l e cable is not t o be replac-

ed, now is an excellent t ime t o lubr icate t h e inner wire.

9- To lubricate t h e inner wire, remove t h e casing guide from t h e cable at both ends. At tach an e lect r ic drill t o one end of t h e wire. Momentarily turn t h e drill on and off t o ro ta te t h e wire and at t h e s a m e t i m e allow lubricant t o flow in to t h e cable, as shown.

ASSEMBLING

Switch Installation 1- Position t h e switch box inside t h e

shift box underneath t h e retainer and slider

e r . 3- Connect the wires t o t h e bottom of

t h e switch. On a standard exhaust unit: connect the red wire to t h e POSITIVE terminal; t h e green t o t h e FORWARD terminal; and t h e blue wire to t h e REVERSE terminal.

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On a propeller exhaust unit: connect t h e red wire t o the POSITIVE terminal; t h e green t o t h e NEUTRAL terminal, and t h e blue wire t o t h e REVERSE terminal.

4- Slide t h e buttons down over t h e pro- trusions of the switch and seat them in place.

Adjustment 5- Temporarily install the side plate,

and then move t h e th ro t t l e hand forward until the boss mark on the bottom of t h e th ro t t l e hand aligns with t h e mark on t h e side of t h e shi f t box panel.

6- Remove t h e panel and depress t h e th ree buttons one-at-a-time. If i t is not possible t o depress t h e buttons, loosen t h e t w o screws on t h e selector bracket. Move t h e bracket forward or a f t until t h e buttons can be depressed. Tighten the screws t o secure t h e bracket in t h e proper position.

7- Install t h e sh i f t box cover and secure i t in place with t h e four screws.

CRITICAL WORDS If t h e th ro t t l e adjustment is not properly

performed, t h e circuit t o t h e s t a r t e r solenoid wili b e opened preventing t h e s t a r t e r motor f rom cranking t h e engine. Adjust- ment is made by moving t h e th ro t t l e cable

SCREW

adjustment knob in t h e trunnion on t h e side of t h e engine.

Check t h e end of t h e cable t o determine if t h e temper has been removed. If t h e end has a bluish appearance, i t has been heated at an earl ier da te and t h e t emper removed. The temper MUST be removed t o permit t h e holding screw t o make a c r imp in t h e wire t o hold an adjustment. If t h e wire has not been tempered, heat t h e end, but not enough t o mel t t h e wire.

8- Feed t h e inner cable into t h e casing guide and align i t with t h e hole in t h e sleeve. Tighten t h e two Allen screws in t h e sleeve until one screw makes a c r imp in t h e wire. The screw must be t ightened t o th is degree t o prevent t h e wire f rom slipping during operation. Bring t h e other Allen screw up t ight against t h e wire.

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7-26 ACCESSOR JES

9- Install t h e cable and cable end into t h e shift box with t h e trunnion c a p on t h e bottom side. Lower the cable trunnion retainer into t h e recess and at t h e s a m e t i m e install the end of t h e shift cable sleeve over the end of t h e protrusion. Install t h e o ther trunnion c a p over the top of t h e cable retainer.

Slide t h e retaining clip over t h e end of t h e guide. The guide slips over a pin and t h e re ta iner has a hole in t h e end. The re ta iner f i t s over t h e pin and holds t h e end of t h e th ro t t l e cable onto the pin. Install t h e side pla te with t h e a t taching Phillips screws. S ta r t t h e engine and run i t at 700 rpm.

CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just f ive seconds without water will damage the water pump.

Now, adjust t h e slide yoke t o allow the pushbuttons t o be depressed at 700 rpm, but not at 750 rpm. If i t is not possible t o depress t h e buttons a t 700 rpm, remove t h e side panel and loosen t h e two screws on t h e se lector bracket. Move t h e bracket. forward or a f t until t h e buttons can be depressed. To adjust t h e fr ict ion knob under t h e shi f t box, turn t h e knob CLOCKWISE t o increase fr ict ion and COUNTERCLOCKWISE t o decrease friction.

A Johnson Hydro-Electric Drive shift box ready for installation.

7-7 HY DRO-ELECTRIC SHIFT BOX 60 HP - 1970 AND 1971 85 HP - 1970 TO 1972 100 HP - 1971 AND 1972 115 HP - 1970 125 HP - 1971 AND 1972

The hydro-electric shi f t box is mounted on t h e starboard side of t h e boat. The unit contains a shift se lec t lever, a n ignition and choke switch, t empera tu re warning horn, and a warmup speed control lever. An e lec t r i c switch act ivates t h e NEUTRAL, FORWARD, and REVERSE solenoids for shift movement. With no current t o t h e switch, t h e lower unit will automatically move into, t h e FORWARD position. There- fore, current must be present and t h e unit shifted in to NEUTRAL and REVERSE. Both the neutral and reverse solenoids a r e activated t o shi f t in to REVERSE. The box is equipped with a frict ion adjustment t o hold t h e shift lever and th ro t t l e in desired engine speed position. A warmup lever is installed t o advance t h e th ro t t l e without t h e need t o move the shift lever. This lever i s provided with an adjustment t o obtain maximum efficiency during engine startup. The lever has a cutout fea tu re t o prevent current f rom passing t o the s t a r t e r motor circuit once engine speed has reached a predetermined rpm. The f ront of t h e shi f t box contains a blocking diode. This diode is used t o block current t o the lower unit when t h e key switch is in t h e OFF position. Detailed tes t ing procedures of the diode a r e present- e d in Chapter 8.

TROUBLESHOOTING

The following paragraphs provide a logical sequence of tests, checks, and adjustments, designed t o isolate and cor rec t a problem in t h e Johnson single lever shi f t box with the warmup lever t o t h e rear and t h e Evinrude single lever pushbutton shi f t box operation. -

The procedures and suggestions a r e keyed by number t o matching numbered illus- t ra t ions as an a id in performing t h e work.

1- Difficult Shift Operation If difficult shifting is experienced, t h e

problem is usually in t h e sh i f t box. The frict ion knob may be adjusted too tightly, t h e pad t h a t works t h e fr ict ion knob could b e excessively worn, or t h e advance a r m on

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HYDRO-ELECTRIC SHIFT BOX 7-27

t h e starboard side of t h e engine could b e inoperative.

2- Amp Draw Test Turn t h e ignition switch t o t h e ON posi-

tion and note t h e a m m e t e r reading. There will b e no a m p draw when the shi f t lever is in t h e FORWARD position. Now, opera te the shi f t control lever t o t h e NEUTRAL and then t o t h e REVERSE position. Note how much the ammete r reading increased each t i m e t h e shi f t lever was moved. If t h e reading was more than 2.5 amperes for e i ther shi f t positions, continue with t h e following checks. If t h e boat is not equipped with an ampere gauge, then temporari ly disconnect the GREEN and BROWN (or RED) wires from t h e back side of t h e kev switch and temporari ly install an a m p gaug& for t h e test. Replace t h e wires a f t e r t h e t e s t i s completed.

Disconnect the shi f t leads a t t h e rea r of t h e engine. Temporarily lay a piece of cloth or o ther insulating material under t h e wires t o prevent them from shorting out during t h e following tests.

Again opera te t h e shift lever and note t h e current loss. If t h e current draw is still more than 2.5 amperes, then check fo r a short in the control box switch or wiring. If t h e current draw is normal with t h e leads disconnected f rom t h e engine, then check for a shor t in t h e gear case coil(s) or wiring.

If the coil leads a r e shorted t o each other , both shift coils would be energized, stalling t h e engine or causing serious damage t o t h e dr iveshaf t .

3- Shift Solenoid Test Testing t h e shift solenoids is accomplish-

e d by f i r s t disconnecting the blue and green wires t o t h e lower unit a t t h e rear of t h e engine. Next, connect an ohmmeter f i rs t t o one solenoid lead and ground, and then t o t h e other in the s a m e manner. A reading of more than 5.0 t o 6.0 ohms indicates a shor t in t h e solenoid or lead. No reading at all indicates an open circuit. If t h e results of th is test indicate a short in the circuit , t h e lower unit must be disassembled and inspected, see Chapter 8.

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7-28 ACCESSOR JES

4- Testing Shift Switch - Forward The shift switch is tes ted by making

m e t e r connections on t h e blue and green wires running t o t h e key switch. These a r e t h e wires t h a t were disconnected in Tes t No. 3 at t h e engine terminal. (To t e s t at t h e shift box would involve cut t ing wires in order t o make t h e meter connections.)

To test t h e switch for t h e FORWARD position, make con tac t with one probe of a voltmeter t o a good ground on t h e engine. Move t h e shi f t lever t o the FORWARD position and t h e key switch t o ON. Make c o n t a c t with t h e other meter probe t o f i rs t t h e green and then t o t h e blue wires. The voltmeter should indicate ZERO volts. N voltage is indicated, t h e shift switch is defect ive and must be replaced.

5- Testing Shift Switch - Reverse To test the shift switch fo r REVERSE,

make contact with one probe of a vol tmeter t o a good ground on the engine. Move t h e shift lever t o t h e REVERSE position and t h e key switch t o ON. Make con tac t with t h e other mete r probe t o t h e green and blue wires. The mete r should indicate 12-volts. If voltage is not present, t h e shift switch is defect ive and must be replaced.

6- Testing Shift Switch - Neutral After the FORWARD and REVERSE

tests have been completed, check for continuity with t h e shift lever in t h e NEUTRAL

position. With one vol tmeter probe still connected t o a good ground on t h e engine and t h e key switch still at t h e ON position, make con tac t with t h e other mete r probe t o t h e green and blue wires. When t h e m e t e r probe makes c o n t a c t with t h e green wire, t h e mete r should indicate 12-volts. When t h e probe makes con tac t with the blue wire, t h e m e t e r should indicate ZERO volts. If these mete r readings a r e not satisfactory, t h e shift switch is defect ive and must be replaced.

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7- Cranking System Inoperative If the s t a r t e r fai ls t o crank t h e engine,

check t o be sure t h e th ro t t l e lever is in t h e idle position. If the th ro t t l e is advanced more than 114 forward, t h e cutout switch, a t t ached t o the a rmature plate, will open t h e circuit t o t h e s t a r t e r solenoid. If t h e cranking system fa i ls t o operate t h e s t a r t e r properly when t h e th ro t t l e lever is in t h e IDLE position, check t h e 20-ampere fuse between t h e ignition switch BAT terminal and t h e ammete r GEN terminal.

DISASSEMBLING

GOOD WORDS Before s tar t ing work on t h e shi f t system,

disconnect both ba t t e ry cables at t h e bat- t e r y terminals.

1- Remove t h e th ree a t taching bolts and then move t h e box away from t h e side of t h e boat. Remove the th ree screws f rom t h e back side of t h e box. The throt t le cab le

SHIFT CIRCUIT TROUBLE SHOOTING

YELLOW

/ YELLOWIGRAY

REMOTE CONTROL

5

1 8 7 8 SOLENOIDS AMMETER SAFTEY HOOK-UP SWITCH - .... -

Troubleshooting schematic diagram of the shift circuit.

, I

SHIFT DIODES

I

- - - - - - I I I I

PURPLUGREEN /

- > STRIPE SHIFT

TOGGLE SWITCH

I TERMINAL I I I I 1 1 1 BLOCK I 7 I L - _ - - - J

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7-30 ACCESSOR l ES

can be removed and serviced without removing i t f rom t h e boat.

2- Lift off t h e f ron t cover, but keep t h e warmup lever with t h e back cover. Observe the warmup lever and t h e th ro t t l e cable in t h e f ront cover. Remove t h e screw from t h e top of t h e box securing t h e a rm t o t h e warmup lever.

3- Lif t the arm and t h e th ro t t l e cable from t h e shift box housing. TAKE CARE not t o lose the two caps from t h e back side of t h e cable. One c a p is located underneath t h e cable and t h e other on t o p of t h e cable.

4- Remove t h e Allen screws f rom t h e slider on the cable end. Pull t h e cable f r e e of t h e slider.

5- Remove t h e two warmup lever retaining clips. -

6- Depress the release for t h e warmup lever and ro ta te t h e release up about half- way. Work t h e warmup lever upward and at

t h e s a m e t ime, be careful not t o lose t h e spring and de ten t located in t h e warmup lever. Once t h e warmup lever begins t o move upward place a towel or c loth over t h e lever t o prevent t h e spring and detent f rom becoming lost. The warmup lever, detent , and spring a r e all sold as separa te items.

SPECIAL WORDS The shif t box housing contains t h e shi f t

lever, shi f t switch, warning horn, diode, choke, key switch, and t h e wiring harness. To service any of these i tems, simply remove the a t taching hardware and c u t or disconnect t h e a t taching wires, reference illustration "A", Page 7-31. The frict ion

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HYDRO-ELECTR IC SHIFT BOX 9-3 1

knob on top of t h e shift box may be removed by pulling i t free. After t h e knob is f r e e t h e "Ll1 shaped bracket may be removed if t h e wiring needs service.

Any t i m e the wires f rom t h e key switch a r e removed, t h e new connection MUST b e coa ted with Neoprene sealer a s a protection against moisture and corrosion.


Clean t h e box halves thoroughly inside and ou t with solvent and blow them dry with compressed air. Apply a thin coa t of engine oil on all metal parts.

CONTROL

CONTROL

SPLICE TUBING

- . j '. . CAM THROTTLE

LlNK WASHER

/

LOCK RELEASE ''*---. i , KNOB THROTTLE

SPRING ' \ THROTTLE

LlNK CAM SCREW

ROLLER

WARM UP LEVER

'\

CONTROL

1 8 7 9 HOUSING

Exploded view of a switch box with principle parts identified.

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7-32 ACCESSOR l ES

If the th ro t t l e cable is not t o be replaced, now is an excellent t i m e t o lubricate t h e inner wire.

Throttle Cable Lubrication 7- To lubricate t h e inner wire, remove

t h e casing guide from t h e cable at both ends. At tach an e lect r ic drill t o one end of t h e wire. Momentarily turn t h e drill on and off t o ro ta te t h e wire and at t h e s a m e t i m e allow lubricant t o flow into t h e cable, as shown.

Checking the Shift Diode 8- Disconnect both wires from t h e shi f t

diode. These wires have a rubber seal where they a r e routed underneath t h e horn. Peel back t h e seal and a t t ach one lead of a n ohmmeter t o one of t h e wires, and t h e o ther mete r lead t o t h e other wire. Observe t h e ohmmeter for a reading. Reverse the mete r leads t o t h e wires. Again observe t h e m e t e r reading. The meter should indicate continu- i ty when t h e leads a r e connected one way t o t h e wires, and no continuity when t h e leads a r e connected t h e other way. If t h e r e was a mete r reading when t h e leads were connected both ways, t h e diode is defective. If t h e mete r did not indicate continuity when t h e mete r leads were connected e i ther way, t h e diode is defective. Stating i t another way, t h e m e t e r should indicate continuity when t h e meter leads a r e connected t o t h e wires ONLY one way.

ASSEMBLING

1- Lubricate the warmup lever with light-weight oil and then just s t a r t i t in to

place in the housing. Install t h e spring and detent , and then push t h e warmup lever fully into place in t h e housing. Secure the warmup lever in place with t h e two retaining clips.

CRITICAL WORDS Check t h e end of t h e th ro t t l e cable t o

determine if t h e temper has been removed. If the end has a bluish appearance, it has been heated at an earl ier d a t e and t h e t emper removed. The temper MUST be removed t o permit t h e holding screw t o make a cr imp in the wire t o hold an adjustment. If t h e wire has not been tempered,

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h e a t tie end, but not enough t o m e l t t h e wire.

2- Work t h e cable end into t h e slider and through t h e anchor hole. Adjust t h e cable end t o be flush with the surface of the slider. Tighten t h e TOP holding screw enough t o make a definite cr imp in t h e wire, a s shown. If th is screw is not t ightened t o make t h e crimp, t h e wire will slip during operation and t h e adjustment will be lost. After the top screw has been fully tightened, bring t h e other screw up t ight against t h e wire. I t is not necessary fo r this second screw t o make a cr imp in t h e wire.

3- Place one of t h e plastic caps in place in the shi f t box housing. Lower t h e slider and cable in to position in t h e housing. Place t h e other plastic c a p on t o p of t h e cable.

4- Secure t h e arm t o t h e warmup lever with the washer (having a concave surface on t h e inside diameter) and t h e screw.

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7-34 ACCESSORIES

5- Release t h e fr ict ion adjustment all t h e way. S e t t h e shi f t handle over t h e protrusion in the inner box.

6- Goat all wiring connections and screws with Neoprene Dip, a s a protection against corrosion and a possible short.

7- Bring the two halves of t h e shi f t box together. Notice t h e cut-a-way on t h e shi f t handle MUST index with a matching protrusion on t h e warmup lever. Work t h e two halves completely together and secure them with t h e th ree screws in t h e back. Install the sh i f t box into place in t h e boat.

7-8 CABLE END FITTING INSTALLATION AT THE ENGINE END

FIRST, THESE WORDS In the early days, t h e th ro t t l e and shift

cables were installed using non-adjustable trunnions. The trunnions were installed on t h e ends of t h e cables and formed t h e connection for the cables t o the engine. The inner cable (wire) moved in both directions inside t h e outer cable and ac tua ted t h e mechanism at t h e engine.

The anchor on the engine, t o which t h e trunnion is a t tached, has a "Pm and a n "S" s tamped on the inside diameter or inside edge of t h e trunnion retainers. These let- te r s identified PORT and STARBOARD.

As improvements and refinements were incorporated over t h e years, new cables and trunnions became adjustable through t h e trunnion.

-- NOT ADJUST1

TRUNN l ON

Attaching the non-adjustable shift cable t o the s k f t arm, top. Connecting the throttle cable to the non- adjustable trunnion, bottom.

The non-adjustable unit is total ly obso- l e t e and no longer available. Therefore, if t h e old-style cable with t h e non-adjustable trunnion requires replacement, t h e new adjustable type will be installed.

When t h e new cable and trunnion a r e t o be installed, a new trunnion re ta iner MUST b e purchased and installed port and starboard on t h e engine. The new cable and trunnion CANNOT b e connected t o t h e old- style retainer.

INSTALLATION

Shift Cable End 1- Move the control lever at the shift

control box t o t h e NEUTRAL position. Slide

Attaching a shift cable with adjustable trunnion to the shift arm, top. Connecting the throttle cable with adjustable tunnion, bottom.

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CABLE END FITTING 7-35

Detail drawing of the shift trunnion at the engine.

t h e gear shi f t f i t t ing onto the control wire. Check t o b e sure t h e inner wire passes completely through t h e small holes in the cable clamp. Clamp t h e anchor screws t o prevent twisting t h e cable. The c lamp and t h e anchor screws MUST be parallel t o t h e trunnion on t h e gear shi f t cable.

2- Notice t h e f l a t and rounded a reas of t h e casting guide. The f l a t edge MUST f a c e TOWARDS t h e engine. In th is position, the re is a f l a t a r e a for t h e lever t o ride during t h e shifting action. Af te r t h e cab le is in place in the casting guide, t ighten t h e top screw until a definite c r imp is made in t h e cable. If the screw is not t ightened enough, t h e inner wire will slip during operat ion and t h e adjustment will b e lost.


if t h e temper has been removed. If t h e end has a bluish appearance, i t has been heated at an earl ier da te and t h e temper removed. The t emper MUST be removed t o permit t h e

CABLE CLAMP

1

CASING GUIDE CABLE W'IRE 2 0

ANCHOR SCREW

LOCKING PLUG

\ KNURLED SH I FT'LEVER M) LE ADJUSTING NUT

Proper instal lation of the throttle cable into the trunnion at the engine end.

holding screw t o make a cr imp in t h e wire t o hold an adjustment. If t h e wire has not been tempered, heat t h e end, but not enough t o mel t the wire. Bring the second screw "p t ight against t h e wire.

3- Insert t h e shift cable control vertically in to t h e trunnion bracket and turn t h e cable t o a horizontal position, as indicated by t h e arrows in t h e accompanying illustration.

4- Attach t h e shift cable end t o t h e shi f t lever on t h e engine by inserting the f i t t ing in to t h e shift control lever, and then pushing inward, and at t h e same t i m e rotating the f i t t ing 112-turn. This act ion will lock t h e f i t t ing in the shift lever.

Throttle Cable End Installation 5- Install the th ro t t l e lock pin spring

over t h e casing guide. S t a r t t h e screws in to

SH I

BLE

~ z z i NOT AD JUSTABLE

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7-36 ACCESSORIES

LONG CABLE

LUBR l CATE BRASS SLEEVE BEFORE ASSEMBLY

SEAL CASING GU l DE

LONG ANCHOR SCREW

t h e small cylinder, and then slide t h e cylinder down through t h e pin spring and in to t h e casing guide. Notice how the cylinder has a hole. This hole should be positioned vertically with the casing t o align with t h e hole in t h e guide. Slide t h e casing guide down over t h e th ro t t l e cable and insert t h e end of t h e wire through t h e sleeve. Tighten t h e t o p screw until a definite cr imp is made in the wire.


if t h e temper has been removed. If t h e end has a bluish appearance, i t has been heated at an earlier da te and t h e t emper removed. The temper MUST be removed t o permit t h e holding screw t o make a cr imp in t h e wire t o hold an adjustment. If the screw is not tightened t o th is degree, t h e wire will s l ip during operation and t h e adjustment will b e lost. If t h e wire has not been tempered, hea t the end, but not enough t o mel t t h e wire. Bring t h e bottom screw up t ight against t h e wire.

TRU NN I0 N

AD JUST

w

6- Install t h e trunnion retainers t o t h e engine, if necessary. Check t o be sure t h e re ta iner with "P1* s tamped on t h e inside is installed on t h e PORT side of t h e engine and t h e retainer with t h e "S" installed on the STARBOARD side. Connect t h e trunnion c a p t o t h e trunnion retainer. This is accomplished by holding t h e trunnion in a vert ical position; inserting i t into the retainer; and then turning i t t o t h e horizontal position, a s shown.

7- Slide t h e guide over t h e pin onto t h e engine, and then snap t h e retainer clip over t h e end of t h e guide t o lock i t in place.

Cable Ad justrn ents See Chapter 8, Lower Unit, t o proper!y

adjust t h e shi f t cable and t o adjust t h e th ro t t l e cable.

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8-1 DESCRIPTION

8 LOWER UNIT

The lower unit is considered as t h a t part of t h e outboard below t h e exhaust housing. The unit contains the propeller shaft , t h e driven and pinion gears, t h e driveshaf t f rom t h e powerhead and the water pump. The forward and reverse gears, together with t h e clutch, shi f t assembly, and re la ted linkage, a r e all housed within t h e lower unit.

The lower unit is removed by one of two methods depending on t h e model year and t h e engine horsepower.

1- Two windows, a n inner window and an outer window in t h e exhaust housing, a r e opened and t h e shi f t coupler disconnected.

2- Green and blue shift wires a r e disconnected on t h e port side or at t h e rear of t h e en gi ne . CHAPTER COVERAGE

Five different type lower units a r e covered in this chapter with separa te sect ions

Window removed from a lower unit to gain access to the shift connector. as explained in the text . The

for each, as indicated: Type I, Section 8-2, has a spli t lower c a p

with forward, neutral, and reverse, mechanical shi f t capabilities.

Type II, Section 8-3, is a mechanical shift , with an upper and lower section t o t h e lower unit. All gears and shaf ts a r e installed through t h e back of t h e lower unit housing. The upper portion of t h e lower unit houses t h e water pump. The driveshaft and shif t linkage passes through t h e upper part.

Type 111, Section 8-4, is an e lec t r i c sh i f t lower unit. An e lec t r i c magnet is used t o sh i f t into forward and reverse.

Type IV, Section 8-5, is very similar t o t h e Type I11 unit, except t h a t i t is much larger with heavier components.

TypeV, Section 8-6, has propeller exhaust with e lect r ic shift . Two solenoids a r e used t o a f f e c t t h e shift. One solenoid is used f o r neutral, and both solenoids a r e ac t iva ted for the shi f t into reverse gear. Power t o t h e solenoids is not necessary t o shi f t into forward gear. The unit automatically shi f ts in to forward gear when power t o t h e lower unit is cutoff.

Each section is complete with detailed procedures.

detailed drawing, upper lef t ; illustrates the relationship The two wires on the port side of the engine which of the bolt to the shift rod. must be disconnected before the lower unit is removed.

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8-2 LOWER UNIT

Troubles hooting Since t h e Type I and Type I1 lower units

a r e both mechanical shift , t h e troubleshooting for these two will be combined in Sec- tion 8-7.

Troubleshooting for the Type I11 and Type IV units will be combined in Section 8- 8.

Section 8-9 will cover troubleshooting for t h e Type V lower unit.

Check t h e Table of Contents and follow t h e procedures in t h e given section fo r t h e unit being serviced.

Water Pump Water pump service work is by f a r t h e

most common reason fo r removal of t h e lower unit. Each lower unit service section contains complete detailed procedures t o rebuild t h e water pump. The instructions given t o prepare fo r t h e water pump work must be performed a s listed. However, once t h e pump is ready fo r installation, if no other work is t o be performed on t h e lower unit, t h e reader may jump t o t h e pump assembling procedures and proceed with installation of t h e water pump.

Each section is presented with complete detailed instructions for removal, disassembly, cleaning and inspecting, assembling, adjusting, and installation, of only one type unit.

ILLUSTRATIONS

Because this chapter covers such a wide range of models over an extended period of t ime, the illustrations included with t h e procedural steps a r e those of t h e most popular lower units. In some cases, t h e unit being serviced may not appear t o be identical with the unit illustrated. However, t h e step-by-step work sequence will be valid in al l cases. If the re is a special procedure for a unique lower unit, t h e differences will b e clearly indicated in t h e step.

SPECIAL WORDS All threaded parts a r e right-hand unless

otherwise indicated. If the re is any water in t h e lower unit or

meta l part icles a r e discovered in t h e gear lubricant, the lower unit should be completely disassembled, cleaned, and inspected.

Actually, problems in t h e lower unit can be classified in to t h r e e broad areas:

1- Lack of proper lubrication in t h e lower unit. Most of t en th is is caused by failure of the operator t o check t h e gear oil level frequently and t o add lubricant when required.

2- A faul ty seal allowing water t o en te r t h e lower unit. Water allowed t o remain in t h e lower unit over a period of non-use t i m e will separa te f rom t h e oil and can be destructive.

3- Excessive clutch dog and clutch ea r wear on t h e forward and reverse gears. This condition is caused by excessive wear in t h e bellcrank under t h e powerhead. A worn bellcrank will result in sloppy shifting of t h e lower unit and cause t h e clutch components t o wear and develop shifting problems. Im- proper shifting techniques at t h e shi f t box will also result in excessive wear t o the clutch dog and clutch ea r s of t h e forward and reverse gears, in t h e manual sh i f t units.

In an e lect r ic shift unit, t h e clutch springs and hubs wear.

Time will also t a k e i t s toll. Continued service over a long period of t i m e will cause par ts t o wear and require replacement.

8-2 PROPELLER SERVICE

PROPELLER WITH SHEAR PIN REMOVAL

SAFETY WORD Check t o be sure t h e high-tension leads

t o t h e spark plugs have been removed f rom t h e plugs BEFORE s tar t ing t o remove t h e propeller. This simple sa fe ty task will prevent the engine from accidently "firing" while t h e propeller is being removed. Such action could cause SEVERE PERSONAL IN- JURY.

Type I, 11, 111, and IV units covered in this manual have a shear pin located between the propeller nut and t h e propeller. T h e propeller nut should be removed and the shear pin checked. The Type V unit has t h e propeller exhaust system.

T o remove t h e propeller, f i rs t pull t h e c o t t e r key, and then remove t h e propeller nut, shear pin, and washer, Illustration "A". Because the shear pin is not a t ight f i t , t h e propeller is able t o move on t h e pin and cause burrs on the hole. The propeller may

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WiOPELLER SERVICE 8-3

be difficult t o remove because of t h e s e burrs. T o overcome this problem, t h e propeller hub has two grooves running t h e full length of the hub, Illustration "B". Hold the shaf t from turning, and then r o t a t e t h e propeller 114 turn t o position the grooves over t h e drive pin holes. The propeller can then be pulled s t ra ight off t h e shaft . After t h e propeller has been removed, f i le t h e drive pin holes on both sides of t h e shaf t t o remove t h e burrs.

INSTALLATION

SAFETY WORD Check t o be sure t h e high-tension leads

t o t h e spark plugs have been removed f rom t h e plugs BEFORE s tar t ing t o install t h e

propeller. This simple sa fe ty t a sk will prevent the engine from accidently "firing" while t h e propeller is being installed. Such act ion could cause SEVERE PERSONAL IN- JURY.

A FEW GOOD WORDS The propeller washer and shear pin, play

an extremely important role. When shift ing gears during normal operation, or if t h e propeller should hit an underwater obstacle, t h e propeller is subjected t o considerable shock. A washer is installed between t h e propeller and drive pin. This washer MUST always be in place for proper operation. If t h e hub should slip, t h e propeller will move back towards t h e propeller nut and lock against t h e drive pin. The washer is designed to s top propeller movement so t h e drive pin can be easily removed for service. Now, on with t h e installation.

Coa t t h e propeller shaf t with an anti- corrosion grease. Install t h e propeller. In- s ta l l t h e propeller with t h e drive pin holes aligned. Install the washer and drive pin. Slide t h e propeller c a p in to place and secure i t with t h e co t t e r pin, Illustration "C".

EXHAUST PROPELLER

Propellers with t h e exhaust passing through t h e hub MUST be removed more frequently than t h e standard propeller. Re- moval a f t e r each weekend use, or outing, i s not considered excessive. These propellers do not have a shear pin. The shaf t and propeller have splines which MUST be coat- e d with an anit-corrosion lubricant prior t o installation as an aid t o removal t h e next t i m e t h e propeller is pulled. Even with t h e lubricant applied t o t h e shaf t splines, t h e

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8-4 LOWER UNIT

propeller may be di f f icul t t o remove. If th i s t y p e propeller is "frozen" t o the shaf t , s e e Section 8-10, for special instructions.

The propeller with t h e exhaust hub is more expensive than t h e standard propeller qnd therefore , t h e cost of rebuilding t h e unit, if t h e hub is damaged, is justified.

A replaceable diffuser ring on t h e backside of t h e propeller disperses the exhaust away from t h e propeller blades a s t h e boat moves through the water , Illustration "D". If t h e ring becomes broken or damaged "ventilation" would be c rea ted pulling the exhaust gases back in to t h e negative pressure a r e a behind t h e propeller. This condition would c r e a t e considerable air bubbles and reduce the effectiveness of t h e propeller.

PROPELLER WITH EXHAUST - REMOVAL

SAFETY WORD Check t o be sure the high-tension leads

t o t h e spark plugs have been removed f rom t h e plugs BEFORE s tar t ing t o remove t h e propeller. This simple sa fe ty task will prevent the engine from accidently "firing" while t h e propeller is being removed. Such act ion could cause SEVERE PERSONAL IN- JURY.

Pull the co t t e r pin from the propeller nut, Illustration "En. Wedge a piece of wood between one of the propeller blades and t h e

Replaceable diffuser ring designed to dispurse the exhaust away from the propeller blades as the boat moves through the water.

cavitat ion plate t o prevent the propeller from rotating. Back off t h e cas te l la ted propeller nut and remove the splined washer. Pull t h e propeller s t ra ight off t h e shaft . I t may be necessary t o carefully t a p on the f ront side of t h e propeller with a so f t head- e d mallet t o jar i t loose. Remove the thrus t washer from t h e propeller shaft .

"Frozen" Propeller If the propeller appears t o be "frozen"

t o t h e shaf t , see Section 8-10 fo r special removal instructions.

EXHAUST PROPELLER INSTALLATION

SAFETY WORD Check t o be sure the high-tension leads

t o t h e spark plugs have been removed from t h e plugs BEFORE s tar t ing t o install the propeller. This simple sa fe ty task will prevent the engine from accidently "firing"

PROPELLER

PROPELLER NUT

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LUBRICATION 8-5

while t h e propeller is being installed. Such a c t i o n could cause SEVERE PERSONAL IN- JURY.

Slide t h e t h r u s t washer o n t o t h e propel- l e r shaf t . C o a t t h e propeller s h a f t wi th P e r f e c t Sea l No. 4, Tr ip le Guard Grease , o r s imi lar good g r a d e of lubr icant t o p reven t t h e propeller f rom becoming "frozen" t o t h e sha f t , I l lustrat ion "F". Slide t h e propeller o n t o t h e s h a f t wi th t h e splines in t h e propel- l e r indexing wi th t h e splines on t h e sha f t . Slide t h e spl ined washer o n t o t h e shaf t . Thread t h e cas t e l l a t ed nu t o n t o t h e sha f t , I l lustrat ion "C" . J a m a p iece of board be tween o n e of t h e propeller blades and t h e cav i t a t ion p l a t e t o prevent t h e propeller f r o m turning. Tighten t h e propeller n u t secure ly and then a b i t m o r e t o al ign t h e hole through t h e nu t wi th t h e hole through t h e propeller shaf t . NEVER back t h e nu t off in a n e f f o r t t o align t h e hole, ALWAYS t igh ten t h e n u t f o r a l i gnmen t I l lustrat ion "H". Instal l t h e c o t t e r pin through t h e n u t and propeller sha f t , I l lustrat ion "I".

8-3 LOWER UNIT LUBRICATION

DRAINING LOWER UNIT

Posit ion a su i tab le conta iner under t h e lower unit, a n d then r emove t h e FILE sc rew and t h e VENT screw.

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8-6 LOWER UNIT

CRITICAL WORD On many lower units, t h e Phillips screw,

securing t h e shi f t fork in place, is located very close t o the vent screw, Illustration I t JRU . On some units t h e Phillips screw is located on the other side. If the wrong screw is removed, BAD NEWS, VERY BAD NEWS! ! The lower unit will have t o be disassembled in order t o return t h e shi f t fork t o i t s proper location.

Allow t h e gear lubricant t o drain in to t h e container, Illustration "K". As t h e lubricant drains, ca tch some with your fingers, f rom time-to-time, and rub i t between your thumb and finger to determine if any m e t a l particles a r e present. If metal is de tec ted in t h e lubricant, t h e unit must be complete- l y disassembled, inspected, and t h e damaged parts replaced.

Check t h e color of the lubricant a s i t drains. A whitish or creamy color indicates t h e presence of water in the lubricant. Check t h e drain pan fo r signs of water separation from the lubricant. The presence of any water in t h e gear lubricant is BAD NEWS. The unit must be completely disassembled, inspected, t h e cause of t h e problem determined, and then corrected.

FILLING LOWER UNIT

CRITICAL WORDS Any t i m e the drain plug or t h e vent plug

is removed, a NEW gasket must be used with the plug t o ensure a proper seal. I t is NOT a good pract ice t o use t h e old gasket.

Use ONLY Type C, now known as Premium Blend Gearcase Lube, in all electric shift

models. Use t h e Hi-Vis Gearcase Lube for all o the r units.

Fill the lower unit with lubricant. Insert t h e lubricant t u b e in to t h e bottom opening, and then fill the unit until lubricant is visible at t h e vent hole, Illustration 'IZn. Install the vent plug. Remove t h e gear lubricant tube and install the drainlfill plug.

Af te r t h e lower plug has been installed, remove t h e vent plug again and using a squi rt- type oil can, add lubricant through this vent hole. A squirt- type oil can must be used to allow t h e trapped air in t h e lower unit t o escape at the s a m e t i m e t h e final lubricant is added, Illustration " page. Once the unit is completely full, install and t ighten t h e vent plug.

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TROUBLESHOOTING TYPES I AND 11 8-7

Frozen Powerhead incorrect diagnosis, replacement of unnec- This condition is suggested when t h e essary parts, and frustrat ion.

operator unsuccessfully a t t empts t o crank The following procedures a r e presented t h e engine with a hand s tar ter . The fly- in a logical sequence with t h e most preva- wheel will not rotate. Do not assume t h e lent , easiest , and less costly i t ems t o be engine is "frozen" until the lower unit has checked listed first. been removed and thoroughly checked. If t h e lower unit is "locked" (the driveshaf t or propeller shaf t will not rotate) , t h e powerhead will have t h e indication of being "frozen" (failure t o r o t a t e t h e flywheel).

The f i rs t s t e p t o perform under these conditions is t o "pull" t h e lower unit, and then again a t t e m p t t o crank t h e engine. If t h e a t t empt is successful with t h e lower unit disconnected, t h e problem is in the lower unit. If t h e a t t empt t o crank t h e

WORDS OF ADVICE One contributing fac to r t o lower unit

problems can be blamed on t h e helmsman's operation. If the operator a t t e m p t s t o "EASE" the unit in to gear, he is causing problems instead of preventing them. Any t ime t h e unit is shifted into, or out of gear, i t must ALWAYS be done with a definite and deliberate action.

engine is still unsuccessful, t h e problem is in Slippage in the Lower Unit t h e powerhead. S e e Chap te r 3, fo r special If t h e shi f t seems t o be slipping as t h e instructions. boat moves through the water. check t h e

8-4 TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL SHIFT TYPE I AND TYPE I1 UNITS 50 HP - 1958 AND 1959 60 HP - 1%4 THRU 1%7 65 HP - 1968 75 HP - 1%0 THRU 1%5 80 HP - 1966 AND 1967 85 HP - 1%8

Troubleshooting MUST be done BEFORE t h e unit is removed f rom t h e powerhead t o permit isolating the problem t o one area. Always a t t e m p t t o proceed with troubleshooting in an orderly manner. The shotgun approach will only result in wasted t ime,

propeller and thev

rubber hub, ' Illustration "N". If the propeller has been subjected t o many str ikes against underwater objects, i t could slip on i t s hub. If the hub is damaged or excessively worn, i t is not economical t o have the hub or propeller rebuilt. A new propeller may be purchased for considerably less than meeting the expense of rebuilding an old worn propeller.

Shift Linkage A definite problem area , especially on a

V 4 unit, is in t h e linkage f rom t h e sh i f t handle t o t h e lower unit. The connection at t h e end of t h e shift handle consists of a "bellcrank", Illustration "P", next page. Over a long period of t ime and operation, t h e bellcrank and t h e rod fi t t ings wear, developing slack in t h e linkage t o t h e lower

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8-8 LOWER UNIT

unit. Without t ight fittings, f r e e of slack, t h e lower unit cannot be shifted fully in to gear as the design engineers intended. Theref ore, this a rea should be checked ear ly in t h e troubleshooting work, a s follows.

Unable to Shift i n t o Forward or Reverse Remove the propeller and check t o de-

termine if t h e shear pin has been broken. Check t h e bellcrank under the power-

head. This is accomplished by removing t h e outer and inner windows in t h e exhaust housing, Illustration "Q"". Hold t h e shi f t rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers and at the s a m e t ime a t t empt t o move t h e shi f t lever on t h e starboard side of the engine. If i t is possible t o move t h e shift lever, t h e bellcrank is worn.

Shift Adjustment Remove t h e hood. Remove t h e rear

cowling around t h e back of t h e engine. Ob- serve the two boss marks on t h e cam below

t h e head, on t h e starboard side of t h e engine, Illustration "R". Notice t h e boss or an arrow mark on t h e block. Shift t h e unit in to FORWARD gear and at the s a m e t i m e rotate t h e propeller, until i t stops, indicating t h e gear is against t h e clutch dog. Ease t h e handle back out of forward gear, and t h e n r o t a t e the propeller a very small amount. Shift back in to FORWARD gear. The clutch dog and gear should be on t o p of each other. The clutch dog should be closest t o going into gear without actually going in to gear. The boss on t h e cam should be aligned with t h e mark on the block. If i t is not, loosen t h e nut below t h e indent and make t h e adjustment. Repeat t h e procedure for RE- VERSE gear, Illustration "S". The o ther boss mark on t h e c a m should align with t h e mark on t h e block. If i t is not possible t o adjust both FORWARD and REVERSE exact-

nearer 1 y, i t is best t o have FORWARD gea. perfect than REVERSE.

Install the exhaust cover and secure i t in place with t h e at taching screws.

Crankshaf t and Driveshaf t Splines The splines in t h e crankshaft or on t h e

driveshaf t may be damaged or worn and thus prevent rotation f rom t h e crankshaft t o reach the propeller shaft . If the splines in t h e crankshaft a re destroyed, t h e crankshaft will have t o be replaced, see Chapte r 3, Powerhead. If t h e splines on t h e driveshaft

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TROUBLESHOOTING TYPES 1 AND I1 8-9

have been destroyed, t h e driveshaft must be replaced. Procedure t o replace t h e drive- s h a f t a r e included in each section of this chapter.

Difficult Shifting Verify t h a t t h e ignition switch is OFF, or

be t t e r still, disconnect t h e spark plug wires f rom the plugs, t o prevent possible personal injury, should t h e engine s tar t . Shift t h e unit in to REVERSE gear at t h e shi f t control box, and at t h e s a m e t ime have an assistant turn t h e propeller shaf t t o ensure t h e clutch is fully engaged. If t h e shift handle is hard t o move, t h e trouble may be in t h e lower unit, with t h e shi f t cable, or in t h e shi f t box, if used.

Water in the Lower Unit Water in t h e lower unit is usually caused

by fish line becoming entangled around t h e propeller shaf t behind the propeller and damaging t h e propeller seal. If t h e line is not removed, i t will c u t the propeller shaf t seal and aliow water t o en te r t h e lower unit. Fish line has also been known t o c u t a groove in t h e propeller shaft .

The propeller should be removed each t i m e t h e boat is hauled f rom t h e water at t h e end of an outing and any material entangled behind t h e propeller removed before i t can cause expensive damage. The small amount of t ime and e f fo r t involved in pulling the propeller is repaid many t imes by reduced maintenance and service work, including t h e replacement of expensive parts.

Isolate the Problem Disconnect the shift cable, at t h e en-

gine. Opera te t h e shi f t lever. If shift ing is st i l l hard, t h e problem is in t h e shi f t cable or control box, s e e Chapter 7. If t h e shift ing fee l s normal with t h e shi f t cable disconnected, t h e problem must be in t h e lower unit, or in the shi f t lever rod passing through t h e exhaust housing. T o verify t h e problem is in t h e lower unit, have an assis- t a n t turn t h e propeller and at t h e s a m e t i m e move the shi f t cable back-and-forth. De- termine if t h e clutch engages properly.

Jumping out of Gear If a loud thumping sound is heard at t h e

transom, while t h e boat is underway, t h e unit is jumping ou t of gear. The propeller does not have a load, theref o re t h e rushing water under t h e hull forces the lower unit in

a backward direction. The unit jumps back in to gear, t h e propeller ca tches hold, t h e lower unit is forced forward again, and t h e result is the thumping sound as t h e action is repeated. Normally this type of ac t ion occurs perhaps once a day, then more f re- quently each t i m e t h e clutch is operated, until finally t h e unit will not s t a y in gear for even a short time.

The following a reas must be checked t o loca te t h e cause:

1- Check t h e bellcrank under t h e powerhead. This is accomplished by outer and inner windows in t h e exhaust housing. Hold t h e shi f t rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers and at the s a m e t i m e a t t e m p t t o move t h e shi f t lever on t h e starboard side of t h e engine. If i t is possible t o move t h e shift lever, t h e bellcrank is damaged.

2- Disconnect t h e shi f t cable at t h e engine. At tempt t o shi f t t h e unit in to forward gear with the shi f t lever on t h e starboard side of t h e engine and at t h e s a m e t i m e r o t a t e t h e propeller in an e f fo r t t o sh i f t in to gear. Shift t h e control lever at t h e control box into forward gear. Move t h e sh i f t cable at t h e engine up t o t h e shi f t handle and determine if t h e cable is properly aligned. The control lever may have jumped a tooth on t h e slider or on t h e shi f t lever arc. If a tooth has been jumped, t h e cable would lose i t s adjustment and the unit would fail t o shi f t properly. If t h e inner cable should sl ip on the end cable guide, t h e adjustment would be lost.

3- Move t h e shi f t lever at t h e engine in to t h e neutral position and t h e shi f t lever at t h e control box t o t h e neutral position. Now, move t h e shi f t cable up t o t h e sh i f t lever and see if i t is aligned. Shift t h e unit in to reverse at t h e engine and shif t t h e control lever at t h e control box in to reverse. Move the cable up and see if it is aligned. If t h e cable is properly aligned, but t h e unit still jumps o u t of gear when the cable is connected, one of t h r e e conditions may exist. -

a- The bellcrank is worn excessively or damaged.

b- The coupler at t h e connector at t h e shi f t rod is misaligned. This coupler is used t o connect the upper shi f t rod with t h e lower rod. If t h e coupler has not been installed properly, any shifting will b e difficult.

c- P a r t s in t h e lower unit a r e worn from extended use.

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8-10 LOWER UNIT

8-5 TYPE I LOWER UNIT SERVICE MANUAL SHIFT SPLIT LOWER UNIT 50 HP - 1958 AND 1959 60 HP - 1964 THRU 1967 65 HP - 1%8 75 HP - 1964 AND 1965

SPECIAL WORDS The manufacturer did not make things

easy t o service t h e 75 hp -- 1965 engine lower unit, because the unit may have one of t h r e e different type lower units. There- fore, i t is ext remely important t o determine t h e type unit f o r t h e engine being serviced.

One has a split lower unit, one is a single unit type, and t h e third is an e lec t r i c sh i f t .

Propeller Removal Remove the propeller according t o t h e

detailed procedures outlined in Section 8-2.

Draining Lower Unit Drain the lower unit according t o the


GOOD WORDS Access t o t h e sh i f t disconnect is through

outer and inner windows on t h e s tarboard side of the engine.

LOWER UNIT REMOVAL

Window Removal to Gain Access 1- Remove t h e ou te r meta l p la te f rom

t h e starboard side of the engine housing. Remove t h e inner p la te f rom t h e exhaust

housing. Access t o the shi f t coupler is gained through t h e opening. Disconnect t h e shi f t rod from the exhaust housing by removing t h e bottom bolt f rom t h e shi f t coupler.

GOOD WORDS In MOST cases, if any unit being serviced

has t h e 6-inch extension, i t is NOT neces- s a r y t o remove the extension in order t o "dropft t h e lower unit.

2- Remove t h e four bolts f rom each side of t h e lower unit. Work t h e lower unit loose f rom the exhaust housing. I t is not uncommon fo r t h e wa te r tube/s t o be s tuck in t h e water pump making separation of t h e lower unit f rom t h e exhaust housing difficult. However, with patience and persistence, t h e tube/s will come f r e e of t h e pump and t h e lower unit separated f rom the exhaust housing.

MORE GOOD WORDS Position the lower unit in a vertical

position on t h e edge of t h e work bench resting on the cavitat ion plate. Secure the lower unit in th is position with a C-clamp. The lower unit will then be held f i rmly in a favorable position for fur ther service work. An a l t e rna te method is t o c u t a groove in a shor t piece of 2" x 6" wood t o accommodate t h e lower unit with t h e cavitat ion plate resting on top of t h e wood. Clamp t h e wood in a vise and service work may then be performed with t h e lower unit e r e c t (in i t s normal position), or inverted (upside down). In both positions, t h e cavitat ion pla te is t h e supporting surface.

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TYPE I MANUAL SHIFT 8- 1 1

3- Remove and DISCARD the O-ring f rom t h e top of t h e driveshaft.

WATER PUMP REMOVAL

4- Remove the bolts securing t h e water pump t o t h e lower unit housing. I t is very possible corrosion will cause t h e bolt heads t o break-off when an a t t e m p t t o remove them is made. If this should happen, use a chisel and breakaway t h e water pump housing f rom t h e lower unit. EXERCISE CARE not t o damage t h e lower unit housing.

5- After t h e screws have been removed, slide t h e water pump, impeller, t h e impeller key, and t h e lower water pump pla te upward and f r e e of t h e driveshaf t. CAREFULLY pull upward on the driveshaf t and remove i t f rom t h e lower unit.

GOOD NEWS If the only work t o be performed is

service of t h e water pump, disregard t h e following steps, and proceed directly t o the Water Pump Installation portion of th is section, beginning on Page 8-19.

LOWER UNIT DISASSEMBLING

6- Turn the lower unit upside down and again clamp i t in t h e vise or slide i t in to t h e wooden block, if one is used. Carefully examine t h e lower portion of t h e unit. The c a p is considered t h a t part below the split with t h e skeg attached. Remove t h e Phil- lips screw from the starboard side of the lower housing. This screw passes through t h e shi f t yoke and threads into t h e side of t h e housing. Remove t h e a t taching screws around the cap. These screws may be slotted- type or Phillips screws. CARE- FULLY t a p t h e c a p t o jar i t loose, and then separa te i t f rom t h e lower unit housing.

TAKE TIME Before proceeding with the disassembly

work, t ake t ime t o study t h e arrangement of par ts in the lower unit. You may e l e c t t o follow t h e pract ice of many professional mechanics and t a k e a polaroid picture of t h e unit as an a id during t h e assembly work. Several engineering and production changes have been made t o t h e lower unit over t h e

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8-12 LOWER UNIT

years. Therefore, the positioning of t h e gears, shims, bearings, and other pa r t s m a y vary slightly f rom one unit t o t h e next.

T o show each and every arrangement with a picture in this manual would not be practical. Even if i t were done, t h e abil i ty t o associate t h e unit being serviced with t h e illustration would be almost impossible. Therefore, t a k e t i m e t o make notes, scrib- ble out a sketch, or t ake a couple photographs.

GOOD WORDS Observe the seal retainer on the propel-

ler end of t h e propeller shaft . Now, notice the matching pin in t h e lower unit housing. During t h e installation work, t h e re ta iner MUST be installed with t h e pin indexed in t h e hole. Take note of t h e snap ring installed in f ront of the seal retainer. One more i tem of part icular interest . Not ice t h e two sides of t h e thrus t washers. One side is as a normal washer, but t h e other side is a babbitt. The babbitt side MUST f a c e toward t h e reverse gear during installation. The washer also has a dog e a r which MUST f a c e upward, when i t is installed, Illustration "A".

By taking note, at this time, of these i tems and exact ly how they a r e installed, the task of assembling and installation will progress more smoot hl y.

7- Lif t the shi f t lever ou t of the cradle, and then remove t h e cradle f rom t h e shi f t dog. Raise the propeller s h a f t and at t h e s a m e t ime t a p with a soft-headed mallet on the bottom side t o jar i t loose, then remove t h e shaf t assembly f rom t h e lower unit. T h e forward and reverse gear including t h e bearings will all come out with t h e propeller shaft. The forward gear is the gear at t h e opposite end of t h e shaf t f rom t h e propeller. - -

8- Remove t h e a t taching screws, and then t h e U-shaped bracket f rom the t o p of t h e pinion gear. Reach in to t h e lower housing and remove t h e pinion gear.

9- The pinion gear bearing, thrus t bearing, and driveshaf ;bearing do not have t o be removed unless they a r e unfit f o r fur ther service. Feel carefully with your f ingers to determine thei r condition. If they do have t o be removed, use a slide hammer with fingers. An a l t e rna te method is t o drive them out with a dr i f t punch f rom above.

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TYPE I MANUAL SHIFT 8- 13

Forward Gear Removal 10- Remove the Truarc snap ring f rom

t h e propeller shaft . 11- Remove t h e small thrust washer,

roller bearing, another small thrus t washer, and then the large thrust washer. Remove t h e second Truarc snap ring, t h e forward gear bushing, and finally the forward gear.

Reverse Gear Removal 12- Remove the snap ring, t h e oil re-

tainer, t h e roller bearing, thrus t washer, reverse gear and bushing, and finally t h e clutch dog.

13- Turn the lower unit housing right side up and again clamp i t in t h e vise. Remove t h e upper seal using a seal puller. An a l t e rna te method, if t h e puller is not available, is t o use two screwdrivers and work t h e seal out of t h e housing. TAKE CARE not t o damage the seal recess as t h e seal i s being removed.

14- A babbitt bearing is installed under t h e seal. Normally, i t is NOT necessary t o remove this bushing. However, check t h e bushing surface with a finger and if any roughness is f e l t , t h e bearing MUST b e replaced.

15- Clean t h e upper portion of the shi f t rod as an aid t o pulling i t through t h e bushing and O-ring. Pull t h e shi f t rod f rom t h e bottom portion of t h e lower unit housing. The shif t rod passes through an O-ring

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8-14 LOWER UNIT

and bushing in t h e lower unit housing. These t w o i t ems prevent water from entering t h e lower unit. A special tapered punch is required t o remove t h e bushing f rom the lower unit housing. Obtain t h e special punch, and then remove t h e bushing, and t h e O-ring.


Clean all water pump parts with solvent, and then dry them with compressed air. Inspect t h e water pump cover and base for cracks and distortion, possibly caused f rom overheating. Inspect t h e face pla te and water pump insert for grooves and/or rough surfaces. If possible, ALWAYS install a complete new water pump while t h e lower unit is disassembled. A new impeller will ensure extended sa t is factory service and give "peace of mind" t o t h e owner. If t h e old impeller must be returned t o service, NEVER install i t in reverse t o t h e original direction of rotation. Installation in reverse will cause premature impeller failure.

Inspect t h e impeller side seal surfaces and the ends of the impeller blades for

Removing the seal from the bearing head. I f the head is damaged in any manner, the less expensive solution is t o replace the bearing head as an assembly.

Clutch dog with worn "ears", rendering i t unfit for further service.

cracks, tears , and wear. Check fo r a glazed o r me1 ted appearance, caused f rom operating without sufficient water. If any question exists, and as previously s ta ted, install a new impeller if at all possible.

Clean all par ts with solvent and dry them with compressed air. DISCARD all O- rings and gaskets. Inspect and replace the driveshaft if t h e s ~ l i n e s a r e worn. Inspect t h e gearcase and exhaust housing fo r damage t o t h e machined surfaces. Remove any nicks and refurbish the surfaces on a surface plate. S t a r t with a No. 120 Emery paper and finish with No. 180.

Check t h e water in take screen and passages by removing t h e bypass cover. Inspect

Forward gear, forward gear bearing, and propeller shaft badly damaged from water in the lower unit over an extended period of time. lmmediate disassembly might have saved them.

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8-16 LOWER UNIT

t h e clutch dog, drive gears, pinion gear, and thrust washers. Replace these i t ems if t h e y appear worn. If the clutch dog and drive gear arrangement surfaces a r e nicked, chipped, or the edges rounded, the operator may be performing t h e shift operation improper- ly or the controls may not be adjusted correctly. These i t ems MUST be replaced if t h e y a r e damaged.

Inspect t h e dog ears on t h e inside of t h e forward and reverse gears. The gears must b e replaced if they a r e damaged.

Check t h e cradle t h a t rides on t h e inside diameter of t h e clutch dog. The sides of t h e cradle must be in good condition, f r e e of any damage or signs of wear. If damage o r wear has occurred, t h e cradle must be replaced.

Check t h e shi f t lever and t h e two prongs t h a t f i t inside t h e cradle. Check t o be su re t h e prongs a r e not worn or rounded. Dam- age or wear t o t h e prongs indicates t h e lever must be replaced.

ASSEMBLING

1- Place the lower unit on t h e work bench with t h e water pump recess facing upward. Install a NEW O-ring into t h e shi f t cavity. Work t h e bushing in to place on t o p of the O-ring with a punch and mallet . Inject just a couple drops of oil in to t h e bushing and O-ring as an assist during installation of t h e shi f t rod.

2- Install t h e babbitt bearing, if i t was removed. The babbitt bearing may b e installed using t h e proper s ize socket and hammer.

3- C o a t t h e outside edge of a NEW seal with No. 1000 sealer , and then t a p t h e sea l into place in the top of t h e upper lower unit housing.

4- Turn the unit over, and then install t h e driveshaf t bearing. Press against t h e l e t t e red side of the bearing f rom t h e bottom side of t h e lower unit housing. Use t h e proper size socket and be careful not t o distort t h e bearing.

5- Lower t h e s a m e number of shims t h a t were removed during disassembling. If t h e shims a r e distorted or damaged, use a mi- cromete r t o measure t h e thickness and then purchase new ones of exact ly t h e same size. If t h e shims were accidently lost, a new

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bearing must be purchased and new shims will be included in t h e package.

6- Install the f i rs t bearing by pressing on t h e le t tered side. Install t h e pinion gear bearing.

7- Lower the pinion gear into t h e housing. Check t o be sure i t sea t s properly. Lower the U-shaped pinion gear retaining bracket in to position and secure i t in p lace with the a t taching screws.

Check t o be sure t h e pinion gear is properly located.

8- Check t o be sure t h e shi f t rod is c lean and smooth (free of any burrs or corrosion). Coa t t h e shift rod and t h e 0- ring with oil as an aid t o installation. Slide t h e shift rod through t h e O-ring and bushing into t h e gear case, f rom the bottom side of t h e lower unit housing.

9- Install a NEW seal into the seal retainer. Install a NEW O-ring around t h e outside perimeter of the retainer.

Assembling t h e Propeller Shaft Forward Gear Installation

10- Slide t h e forward gear and forward gear bushing onto the end of the propeller shaft . Secure t h e bushing in place by installing the Truarc snap ring. Install the thrus t washer with t h e babbit t side facing towards the forward gear.

11- Install t h e large thrus t washer, roll- e r bearing, small thrus t washer, and finally t h e Truarc snap ring.

Reverse Gear Installation 12- Slide t h e clutch dog onto t h e propel-

le r shaf t with t h e splines indexed with t h e

- FORWARD ROLLER SMALL

GEAR LARGE BEARING m/ THRUST

THRUST ,, WASHER

TRUARC ' \ TF ' 8 3 , SNAP RING SNAP KING

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8- 18 LOWER UNIT

splines on t h e shaft . Install the reverse gear and reverse gear bushing. Slide t h e th rus t washer on the shaf t with the babbitt side facing towards t h e reverse gear. Slide t h e

15- Place t h e cradle into place in t h e clutch dog recess. Bring t h e shifting forks t o t h e cradle. Check t o be su re t h e forks seat properly in t h e cradle. Work t h e shi f t rod up and down t o be sure t h e unit is in NEUTRAL.

rolle; bearing onto t h e shaf t , and then t h e oil retainer seal. Check t o be sure a NEW &Isernbling Lower Gear Case

seal and O-ring has been installed into t h e 16- Lay down a bead of No. 1800 Sealer

seal retainer, and then install t h e retainer. in to the groove of the c a p in preparation t o installing t h e seal. Apply a small amount of

Propeller Shaft Installation CRITICAL WORDS

The seal retainer has a hole and the lower housing of t h e lower unit has a pin. This pin MUST index into t h e hole in the retainer when t h e propeller shaf t is installed. If the pin is not seated properly in t h e hole, t h e seal retainer will work par t way o u t of the housing and t h e lubricant in t h e lower unit will be lost.

13- Lower t h e assembled propeller shaf t in to t h e lower unit housing, and at t h e s a m e t i m e check t o be sure t h e oil re ta iner hole indexes with t h e pin in t h e housing.

14- Install the snap ring in f ron t of t h e seal retainer with t h e open end towards t h e top. Check t o be sure t h e tabs on the thrus t washers a r e facing upward.

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TYPE I MANUAL SHIFT & 19

silicone sealer on each side of the bearing gear case head. This sealer will fo rm a complete seal when the lower unit c a p is installed.

17- Position t h e lower unit c a p over t h e gear assembly onto t h e lower unit housing. Apply a drop of sealer into t h e opening for each cap retaining screw t o ensure a com-

on the screw t o ensure a leak proof seal. The lubricant in t h e lower unit must not escape and water must not enter. Tighten t h e screw securely.

WATER PUMP INSTALLATION

plete seal between t h e c a p and t h e lower 19- Apply a coating of sealer t o t h e unit housing. Install t h e screws securing t h e upper surface of the lower unit. Install the cap the lower unit housing* Tighten the water pump base plate. Slide t h e driveshaf t screws ALTERNATELY and EVENLY. into the lower unit, and then r o t a t e the

GOOD WORD shaf t very slowly. when t h e splines of t h e driveshaft index with the pinion gear, t h e

If time is taken to grind the end of the shaf t will drop slightly. Install t h e wa te r screw t o a SHORT point, Illustration 'Bm, i t will make the task of installation much pump key.

20- Slide the water pump impeller down easier* If the cap and shift lever are not the driveshaft and in to place on top of the aligned exactly, t h e screw will "seek" and water pump base plate with the pump key make the as it passes through. indexed in t h e impeller. Lubr icate t h e in- However, do make a long point Or the side surface of the water pump with light- screw will not have enough support and

weight oil. would bend during o ~ e r a t i o n of t h e shi f t - . lever.

18- Use a flashlight and align t h e hole in t h e c a p with the hole in the shi f t lever. Install t h e tapered Phillips screw in to t h e housing and through t h e lever. Always use a NEW washer with th is screw and 1000 sea le r

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8-20 LOWER UNIT

21- Lower t h e water pump housing down t h e driveshaft and over t h e impeller. Ro- tate the driveshaf t CLOCKWISE as the wa- t e r pump housing is lowered t o allow t h e impeller blades t o assume thei r natural and proper position inside t h e housing. Continue t o r o t a t e the driveshaft and work t h e water pump housing downward until i t is seated on t h e lower unit upper housing .

ALWAYS r o t a t e t h e driveshaf t CLOCK- WISE while the screws a r e t ightened t o prevent damaging t h e impeller vanes. If t h e impeller is not rotated, t h e housing could damage or c u t t h e end of t h e vanes as t h e screws a r e brought up tight. The rotation allows them t o spring back in a natural position.

22- Place NEW grommets in to t h e water pump housing f o r t h e water tubes. Install a NEW seal ring on t o p of the water pump. Install a NEW O-ring on t h e top of t h e drives haf t.

LOWER UNIT INSTALLATION

GOOD WORDS Connecting t h e shi f t rod with t h e coup-

ler is not an easy task but can be accomplished as follows: First , not ice t h e cu tou t

area on t h e end of t h e shift rod, Illustration ""C". This a r e a permits the bolt t o pass through t h e coupler past t h e shift rod, and in to the other side of the coupler Illustra- tion "Dm. I t is this bolt t h a t holds t h e sh i f t rod in t h e coupler. Now, in order for t h e bolt t o be properly installed, t h e cutout a r e a on t h e shi f t rod MUST be aligned in such a manner t o allow t h e bolt t o be properly installed. Therefore, a s the lower unit is mated with t h e exhaust housing, exercise patience as the two units come together, t o enable t h e bolt t o be installed at t h e proper t ime. If the rod is allowed t o move t o o f a r in to t h e coupler before t h e bolt is installed, it may be possible t o force the bolt in to place, past t h e shi f t rod. The threads on t h e bolt will be stripped, and t h e shi f t rod will eventually come out of t h e coupler.

GOOD WORDS Normally the coupler is not removed. In

most cases i t s tays with the upper shi f t rod. If, however, t h e coupler was removed, for any number of reasons, peform S t e p 24.

Install the coupler onto t h e upper unit shi f t rod, with t h e NO THREAD section towards the window. With t h e coupler in this position, t h e bolt may be inserted through t h e coupler and "catch" t h e threads on t h e f a r side. Install t h e coupler bolt in t h e manner described in t h e previous paragraph.

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TYPE I MANUAL SHIFT 8-21

23- Check t o be sure t h e water pickup tubes a r e clean, smooth, and f r e e of any corrosion. C o a t t h e water pickup tubes and grommets with lubricant as an a id t o installation. Shift t h e lower unit in to FORWARD or REVERSE gear as an aid t o rotating t h e shaft and t h e lower unit housing: is worked towards the exhaust housing. Guide t h e lower unit up in to t h e exhaust housing with the water t u b e sliding in to t h e rubber grorn- m e t of t h e water pump. Continue t o work t h e lower unit towards the exhaust housing, and at t h e s a m e t ime r o t a t e t h e propeller shaf t a s an aid t o indexing t h e driveshaft splines with t h e crankshaft.

S ta r t t h e bolts securing t h e lower unit t o t h e exhaust housing. Tighten t h e bolts EVENLY and ALTERNATELY.

24- Insert t h e bolt in to t h e connector. TAKE TIME t o read and understand the "Good Wordsu on Page 20, before making this connection.

25- After t h e bolt is in place, install and secure t h e gasket and inner window with t h e a t taching hardware. Install t h e outer window and gasket.

Filling Lower Unit See Section 8-3 fo r detailed instructions

on filling t h e lower unit.

Propeller Installatim See Section 8-2 for detailed procedures

t o install t h e propeller.

Shift Linkage Adjustment See special instructions on Page 8-8.

Functional Check 26- Perform a functional check of t h e

completed work by mounting t h e engine in a test tank, in a body of water , or with a flush a t t achment connected t o t h e lower unit. If a flush a t t achment i s used, NEVER opera te t h e engine above an idle speed, because t h e no-load condition on t h e propeller w~ulc! allow t h e engine t o RUNAWAY resulting in serious damage or destruction of t h e engine.

CAUTIOM: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any t ime the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just f ive seconds without water will damage the water pump.

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8-22 LOWER UNIT

Sta r t t h e engine and observe t h e t a t t l e- t a l e flow of water from t h e idle relief in t h e exhaust housing. The water pump installation work is verified. If a flush a t t a c h m e n t i s connected t o the lower unit, VERY LIT- TLE water will be visible from t h e idle relief port. Shift the engine into t h e t h r e e gears and check fo r smoothness of operation and sa t is factory performance.

8-6 TYPE 11 LOWER UNIT SERVICE MANUAL SHET - SINGLE ENCLOSED HOUSING 60 HP - 1%4 THRU 1%7 65 HP - 1968 75 HP - 1960 THRU 1965 80 HP - 1 966 AND 1967 85 HP - 1%8

On the 75 hp -- 1960, t h e pinion gear and bearing assembly, and t h e driveshaft bearing assembly were different from t h e other low- e r units covered in th is seciton. Where these differences occur, they will b e noted in t h e procedures and supported with accompanying illustrations.

Clutch Dog Modification A standard unit from the manufacturer

included a spline f o r t h e clutch dog t o operate into forward and reverse gears. De- sign of t h e clutch dog caused i t t o "chatter1' or the unit t o slide slightly ou t of gear during normal operation. This action caused t h e ea r s of the d u t c h dog t o wear very rapidly.

Modified propeller shaft ( top) with the hole drilled for the spring, as explained in the text . The bottom shaft has not been modified.

As a result of this condition, a service bulletin, f ixture, new clutch dog, and associ- a t e d parts, were dispatched f rom the factory, Illustration "An. Service centers were instructed t o modify t h e lower unit any t i m e i t was disassembled. A hole was drilled through t h e propeller shaf t , Illustration flB'l. A spring and two balls, provided in t h e package, were installed on t h e propeller shaf t , one on e i the r side. A groove had been c u t into the inside diameter of the new clutch dog. When t h e new clutch dog is placed in t h e NEUTRAL position, t h e groove

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TYPE I I MANUAL SHIFT 8-23

is over t h e balls. The spring exer t s a f o r c e on t h e balls t o hold t h e clutch dog in position.

Two ramps a r e manufactured on t h e inside surface of t h e clutch dog, one towards t h e forward gear, and t h e other towards t h e reverse gear, Illustration "Cn. As t h e c lutch dog is moved toward either forward or reverse gear, t h e spring and balls e x e r t a small force on t h e clutch dog t o prevent t h e "chattering".

If t h e unit being serviced has not had th is clutch dog modification incorporated, t h e authors strongly recommend t h e propel- le r shaf t be taken t o an authorized OMC dealer shop and t h e work performed. DO NOT a t t e m p t t o drill t h e hole without t h e special fixture.

The following procedures and supporting illustrations cover service of t h e original f ac to ry delivered lower unit without the spring and balls. However, during t h e assembling sequence, ex t ra procedures and supporting illustrations a r e included as an a id t o installation.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Detailed troubleshooting procedures for th is lower unit a r e presented in Section 8-4, beginning on Page 8-7.

Failure of a lower unit t o function properly can almost always be t r aced t o some outside action or condition other than normal wear of t h e components. Therefore, anyt ime troubleshooting of a lower unit is required, t h e cause of t h e malfunction o r fau l ty par t MUST be discovered and corrected. If th i s is not done, rebuilding t h e lower unit will only give sa t is factory service fo r a very short time.

WORDS OF ADVICE One contributing fac to r t o lower unit

problems can be blamed on t h e helmsman's operation. If the operator a t t e m p t s t o "EASEtt t h e unit in to gear, he is causing problems instead of preventing them. Any t i m e t h e unit i s shifted into, or ou t of gear , i t must ALWAYS b e done with a definite and deliberate action.

Another problem area , especially on a V4 unit, is in t h e linkage f rom t h e shift handle t o t h e lower unit. The connection at the end of t h e shift handle consists of a "bellcrank". Over a long period of t i m e and operation, t h e bellcrank and t h e rod f i t t ings

wear, developing slack in the linkage t o t h e lower unit. Without t ight f i t t ings, f r e e of slack, t h e lower unit cannot be shifted fully into gear a s t h e design engineers intended. Therefore, this a r e a should be checked ear ly in t h e troubleshooting work.

LOWER UNIT REMOVAL

Propeller Removal Remove t h e propeller according t o t h e


Draining Lower Unit Drain t h e lower unit according t o the


Preparation Work Disconnect the cables from the battery.

Remove t h e hood. Disconnect t h e shi f t cable from the shift handle. On t h e starboard side of t h e engine, remove t h e egg- shaped outer window from the exhaust housing, about half way down. After t h e ou te r is removed, remove the inner elongated window.

Lower Unit 1- Observe the shi f t rod connection

through t h e windows. If t h e engine does not have the long extension, t h e connector will be about 1-114" (3.1 8 cm) long. Remove t h e lower screw in the connector. After the screw is loose, i t may be necessary t o grasp i t with a pair of needle-nose pliers in order t o withdraw i t f rom t h e connector.

2- If the unit being serviced has the long shaf t extension, remove t h e eight bolts securing t h e lower unit t o t h e extension.

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8-24 LOWER UNIT

Work t h e lower unit loose and separa te i t f rom the exhaust housing. If difficulty i s encountered separating t h e lower unit f rom t h e exhaust housing, t h e cause is usually t h e water pump tubes being stuck in t h e water pump, and/or t h e shi f t rod being t ight in t h e connector, or t h e driveshaf t llfrozen" in t h e powerhead crankshaft . Use patience, a rubber mallet , more patience, and perhaps a break fo r coffee or tea, until t h e lower unit is free.

DISASSEMBLING 3- Set the lower unit in a f ix ture or

clamp the anti-cavitation pla te t o t h e edge of a work bench with the lower unit in i t s normal upright position. Remove t h e O-ring f rom the groove at the top of the driveshaft .

WATER PUMP REMOVAL

4- Remove t h e four 7/16" bolts f rom t h e water pump. Lif t t h e water pump housing upward off the pump impeller, and then f r e e of t h e driveshaft. Slide t h e water pump impeller up and f r e e of the driveshaft.

5- Remove t h e impeller Woodruff key f rom the driveshaft. Slide t h e water pump base pla te up and f r e e of t h e driveshaft.

GOOD WORDS Notice how the shi f t rod extends ou t of

t h e housing. Also notice how t h e shift rod has a bend near the top towards the driveshaft . This is t h e normal configuration f o r t h e shift rod. Do not consider th is bend as damage and a t t e m p t t o straighten i t . When t h e shi f t rod is installed during assembling of the lower unit, make cer ta in t h e bend is towards the driveshaf t, Illustration wD1l.

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TYPE I1 MANUAL SHIFT 8-25

SPECIAL WORDS After the water pump base pla te has

been removed, observe t h e upper bearing c a p in t h e lower unit housing. DO NOT remove t h e cap or bearing unless t h e r e is no doubt the bearing is unfit for fur ther service. The screws a r e very difficult t o remove and many t imes the housing will be damaged in t h e a t t e m p t t o remove t h e bearing.

6- Clamp the driveshaft in a vise so as not to damage t h e splines. Place a wooden block on t h e upper surface of t h e housing. Use a hammer and drive t h e lower unit f rom t h e driveshaft. This action will "pull" t h e seal f r e e of t h e cap and t h e driveshaf t f r e e of t h e lower unit housing. Check t h e bearing surf a c e on t h e driveshaft. If t h e surface is rough, corroded, or damaged in any way, t h e c a p must be removed and t h e bearing replaced.

Lower Unit Separation 7- Lay the lower unit on t h e bench on i t s

side. Remove t h e two 9/16" nuts on t h e f ron t and rear section of the upper gear housing.

8- Tap with a soft-headed mallet on the I1torpedo1l end of t h e lower unit. Continue t o t a p with the mallet until the lower sec- - -

tion ieparates from t h e upper section. C o a t t h e shi f t rod with lightweight oil a s an aid fo r i t t o slip through t h e housing. As t h e two parts of the lower unit a r e seoarated.

t h e shi f t rod will then come through t h e upper housing. As the halves a r e separated, t h e needle bearings will usually .fall f r e e of t h e bearing carrier . Theref ore, be prepared t o keep t rack of them as they come out.

9- To remove t h e driveshaft bearing installed just below the ' sea l t h a t was removed with t h e driveshaft, remove the four 7/16" bolts, and then t h e bearing assembly.

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8-26 LOWER UNIT

10- On t h e 75 hp -- 1960 units, a roller bearing is ins ta l l ed ' a t this location. This bearing is pressed onto the driveshaft and secured with a washer and snap ring. This bearing need not be removed unless i t is unfit for fur ther service, water has en te red t h e lower unit. The driveshaft on these units is in two sections, one above t h e wa te r pump, and t h e other below t h e pump.

MORE GOOD WORDS If the two halves of t h e lower unit a r e

flfrozen'l and refuse t o separate , t h e cause is usually corrosion around t h e two long bolts passing through t h e two halves. Theref ore, i t may be necessary t o c u t t h e bolts, Illus- t ra t ion "E". If one of t h e two halves is t o b e damaged in the separation process, l e t i t be

t h e less expensive upper half. Af te r t h e bolts have been cut , again t a p with t h e mal le t and t h e two halves should separate . Drive the two studs ou t of t h e upper part . Have t h e c u t marks welded, sand t h e sur- f a c e smooth, apply a new coa t of paint, and t h e section can be restored t o service.

Shift Rod Removal 11- Pull upward on the shift rod and

ro ta te t h e propeller shaft . Notice t h e 7/16" bolt through the shi f t lever and shift rod. Remove t h e bolt, and t h e shi f t rod can t h e n be removed from the two levers.

12- Work t h e two levers ou t of t h e lower unit housing.

Driveshaft of a 75 hp -- 1960 unit with the upper bearing pressed onto the shaft. The driveshaft has two sections.

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TYPE II MANUAL SHIFT 8-27

Lower Portion Disassembling 13- Remove the four screws from the

propeller shaf t bearing cap. Use a hammer and chisel and remove the bearing carr ier c a p f rom t h e lower unit housing. DO NOT use t h e chisel in the groove between the housing and t h e bearing carrier cap. Such act ion would probably destroy the sealing abil i ty of t h e two surfaces.

14- Observe t h a t this washer has a plain side and a babbit t side. The babbit t s ide MUST b e installed towards the forward gear during installation. The two ea rs f i t inside t h e re ta iner washer.

GOOD WORDS The bearing c a p contains a seal and a

bearing for t h e propeller shaft . The seal prevents lubricant in t h e lower unit f rom escaping and prevents water f rom entering. Special tools a r e required t o remove the bearing and seals f rom t h e cap,

Theref ore, if t h e bearing or seal i s unfit for fur ther service, t h e purchase of a new bearing c a p may be more practical than a t tempt ing t o remove and replace t h e individual parts. The new c a p will have t h e bearing, seal , and O-ring properly instal led and readv for service.

W A R N I N G The next s t e p involves a dangerous pro-

cedure and should be executed with c a r e while wearing SAFETY GLASSES. The retaining ring is under tremendous tension in t h e groove and while i t is being removed. If i t should slip off t h e Truarc pliers, i t will t ravel with incredible speed causing personal injury if it should -strike a person. There- fore , continue t o hold t h e ring and pliers

firmly a f t e r t h e ring is ou t of t h e groove and c lear of t h e lower unit. Place t h e ring on the floor and hold i t securely with one foo t before releasing t h e grip on t h e pliers. An a l t e rna te method is t o hold t h e ring inside a trash barrel, or o ther suitable container, before releasing t h e pliers.

15- Obtain a pair of Truarc pliers. In- s e r t t h e tips of the pliers into t h e holes of t h e retaining ring, inside t h e housing. Now, CAREFULLY remove the retaining ring f rom t h e groove and gear case without allowing the pliers t o slip. Release t h e grip on t h e pliers in t h e manner described in t h e WARNING, just before th is step.

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8-28 LOWER UNIT

16- Remove t h e retainer washer with t h e four holes and t h e thrus t washer. No- t i c e t h e two cutouts in t h e washer. During installation, the ears of the babbitt washer index in to these cutouts.

17- The reverse gear will c o m e with t h e shaft . Slide t h e reverse gear f r e e of t h e propeller shaft . Notice t h a t the reverse gear has a washer on t h e inside. Also notice t h a t the reverse gear has a removeable bushing. The bushing and washer must b e purchased a s separate items. They a r e NOT included with t h e purchase of a new reve t se gear.

18- On t h e starboard side of t h e lower unit, remove t h e Phillips screw. This screw holds the shi f t yoke in place.

19- Grasp t h e propeller shaf t firmly and pull i t f r e e of the lower unit. Reach inside t h e lower unit and remove t h e clutch dog, clutch cradle, and yoke.

20- Remove the pinion gear, t h e pinion f l a t washer, and t h e pinion thrust bearing.

GOOD WORDS On the 75 hp -- 1960 lower unit, t h e pin-

ion gear does not use a f l a t washer or a thrust bearing.

21- Reach in and withdraw t h e forward near. Notice t h a t the forward gear also has

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TYPE I1 MANUAL SHIFT 8-29

a f la t washer. Sometimes this washer fa i ls t o come with the gear and remains on t h e shaft. In t h a t case, t h e washer is removed with the propeller shaft . Also notice t h a t t h e bushing is qui te different from t h e bushing in the reverse gear. This bushing is pressed in with a flange on t h e back side. This bushing cannot be replaced. A new forward gear will have t h e bushing pressed in place ready for service. Therefore, if t h e bearing is worn and unfit fo r fur ther service, a new forward gear must be purchased.

22- Reach in and withdraw t h e forward gear bearing.

23- The bearing race does NOT have t o be removed unless the bearing is being replaced. A special tool i s available t o remove the race. HOWEVER, the torpedo end of t h e lower unit may be heated with a torch and then tapped with a soft-head mallet. The race will then come free. There a r e no shims installed behind t h e race.

Upper Portion Disassembling FIRST, THESE WORDS

The upper pinion gear bearing shell usually does not require replacement. D O NOT remove this i t em unless the bearing is unfit f o r fur ther service. The bearing and t h e shell must be replaced a s a set .

24- Use a long punch inserted through t h e t o p of the upper lower unit section and drive t h e pinion gear bearing shell f r e e of t h e housing. To remove the upper driveshaf t bearing, drive i t f r e e f rom t h e t o p side. Remove this bearing ONLY if i t is unfit fo r fur ther service.


Clean all water pump par ts with solvent, and then dry them with compressed air. Inspect t h e water pump cover and base for cracks and distortion, possibly caused f rom overheating. Inspect the f a c e plate and water pump insert fo r grooves and/or rough surfaces. If possible, ALWAYS install a complete new water pump while t h e lower unit is disassembled. A new impeller will ensure extended sa t is factory service and give "peace of mind" t o the owner. If the old impeller must be returned t o service, NEVER install i t in reverse t o t h e original direction of rotation. Installation in reverse will cause premature impeller failure.

Inspect t h e impeller side seal surfaces and the ends of the impeller blades for

PINION GEAR BEAR l NG

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8-30 LOWER UNIT

A new driveshaft, top, and a damaged shaft unfit for further service, bottom. Notice the water marks on the bottom shaft.

cracks, tears , and wear. Check for a glazed o r me1 ted appearance, caused from operating without sufficient water. If any question exists, a s previously s ta ted, install a new impeller if at all possible.

Clean all par ts with solvent and dry them with compressed air. DISCARD all O- rings and gaskets. Inspect and replace t h e driveshaft if t h e splines a r e worn. Inspect t h e gearcase and exhaust housing for damage t o t h e machined surfaces. Remove any nicks and refurbish the surfaces on a surface plate. S ta r t with a No. 120 Emery paper and finish with No. 180.

Driveshaft from a 75 hp - 1960 unit with the upper bearing pressed into dace.

Check t h e water in take screen and passages by removing t h e bypass cover. Inspect t h e clutch dog, drive gears, pinion gear, and thrust washers. Replace these i t e m s if t h e y appear worn. If the clutch dog and drive gear arrangement surfaces a r e nicked, chipped, or the edges rounded, t h e operator may be performing t h e shi f t operation improper- ly or the controls may not be adjusted correctly. These i t ems MUST be replaced if they a r e damaged.

Inspect t h e dog ea rs on t h e inside of t h e forward and reverse gears. The gears must b e replaced if they a r e damaged.

Check t h e cradle t h a t rides on t h e inside diameter of t h e clutch dog. The sides of t h e cradle must be in good condition, f r e e of any damage or signs of wear. If damage o r

Pinion bearing (Ieft) is used on the 75 hp - 1960 model. The pinion bearing (right) is used on all other units.

Thrust washer used with the pinion gear. Notice the missing needle bearings. This washer MUST be replaced, as explained in the text.

New type clutch dog with the ramps for the balls clearly visible. The text explains the reason for the ramps and the balls.

Snap ring installed in the pinion gear. This ring holds the driveshaft in position.

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TYPE I! MANUAL SHIFT 8-3 1

A broken driveshaft. This damage was most tikely caused by the operator shifting while the engine was operating at a high rpm.

wear has occurred, t h e cradle must be replaced.

Check t h e shift lever and t h e two prongs t h a t f i t inside t h e cradle. Check t o be sure t h e prongs a r e not worn or rounded. Dam- age or wear t o t h e prongs indicates t h e lever must be replaced.

LOWER UNIT ASSEMBLING

Forward Gear and Pinion Gear Installation 1- Drive t h e forward gear bearing r a c e

into place using a bearing installer, until i t in t h e housing.

2- Clamp the lower unit housing in a vise and t i l ted backwards slightly, a s shown. Install the forward bearing in to t h e race.

3- Install t h e forward gear. Check t o b e sure i t is the gear with the babbitt boss on t h e back side. Check t o be sure t h e washer is in place inside t h e gear. This washer mav be held in place w i h n t h e gear, with a small amount of grease.

4- Install the f l a t bearing and f l a t wash- e r on top of t h e pinion gear. If t h e unit being serviced is a 75 hp -- 1960, t h e f l a t bearing and f l a t washer is not used. Install t h e pinion gear assembly into t h e lower unit

housing. The back side of t h e pinion gear will lay on the forward gear. The parts installed thus fa r , except t h e forward gear bearing race, a r e all just laying in place without being secured at this t ime.

This pinion gear is unfit for further service due to the broken teeth.

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8-32 LOWER UNIT

REVERSE GEAR

ASSEMBLY

'.

'\

@

PINION GEAR

ASSEMBLY I

'!

WATER I PUMP

ASSEMBLY j

FORWARD

Exploded drawing of o Type I1 loser unit with principle parts icientif ied.

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5- Lay t h e shifting yoke into position in t h e bottom of t h e lower unit.

Modified Propeller Shaft If t h e propeller has had t h e modification,

described in t h e Clutch Dog Modification paragraphs beginning on Page 8-22, perform S tep 5A.

5A- Insert t h e spring in to t h e hole in t h e propeller shaft . Set a ball in place on t h e spring on each side of t h e shaft . Slide t h e clutch dog down t h e propeller s h a f t until the balls index in to t h e groove in t h e inside surface of the clutch dog. Move t h e clutch dog until i t snaps in to t h e NEUTRAL position.

6- Coat the groove in t h e outside sur- f a c e of t h e clutch dog with OFJC Grease, or equivalent. Install the cradle t o the clutch dog. Slide t h e clutch dog onto t h e propeller shaf t with the splines of t h e clutch dog indexed with t h e splines on t h e shaft . Slide the propeller shaf t into the lower unit with t h e forward end of t h e shaf t entering t h e forward bearing. Push t h e shaf t forward as f a r a s possible t o s e a t i t properly in t h e forward bearing.

GOOD WORDS The following s t e p is tricky, requiring

patience and possibly a break fo r coffee o r tea, but i t can be done.

7- Reach into t h e opening of t h e lower unit with a screwdriver and work t h e fingers of t h e yoke until they index into t h e c rad le around t h e clutch dog. Af te r t h e yoke fingers a r e in position, move t h e yoke very

slightly until t h e hole on t h e starboard side of t h e housing is aligned with t h e hole in t h e yoke. Once t h e holes a r e aligned, th read t h e Phillips screw, with a MEW O-ring coat- e d with 1000 sealer, through t h e housing and into t h e yoke. Tighten t h e screw securely. Victory! A difficult task has been completed.

8- Check t o be sure the bushing and thrust washer have been installed in to t h e reverse gear. Slide t h e assembled reverse gear onto t h e propeller shaf t until t h e gear t e e t h index with t h e t e e t h of the pinion Eear.

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9- Install the large retainer washer with t h e four holes. Slide t h e washer up agains t t h e reverse gear.

W A R N I N G This next s t e p can be dangerous. The

snap ring is placed under tremendous tension with the Truarc pliers while i t is being placed in to t h e groove. Therefore, wear SAFETY GLASSES and exercise c a r e t o prevent t h e snap ring f rom slipping out of t h e pliers. If the snap ring should slip out, i t would travel with incredible speed and cause personal injury if i t s truck a person.

10- Observe t h e snap ring. Notice how one edge is square and the other edge is rounded. When t h e snap ring is installed t h e square edge MUST f a c e towards you. CAREFULLY install t h e snap ring in to t h e groove in the lower unit following t h e precautions given in t h e previous WARNING.

11- Install two guide pins in to t h e f l a t washer containing t h e four holes. These guide pins will assist t o install t h e bearing cap. Hold t h e guide pins t o prevent t h e washer from sliding ou t of the retainer. Slide t h e thrus t washer onto t h e propeller shaf t with the babbitt side facing toward

t h e gear and t h e two ea rs indexed in to t h e cutouts of the large retainer washer.

12- Install a NEW O-ring, coated with 1000 sealer, onto t h e propeller s h a f t bearing cap. Slide t h e cap onto t h e propeller shaf t , and at the s a m e t i m e hold t h e guide pins. Work t h e bearing c a p over t h e guide pins. Hold t h e guide pins with needle nose pliers and t a p t h e bearing c a p in to place with a soft-headed mallet. S ta r t two a t taching screws, with NEW O-rings coated with 1000 sealer, through the two holes in the c a p without guide pins. Af te r t h e two screws have been well s tar ted, remove t h e two guide pins and install t h e other two screws with NEW O-rings coated with 1000 sealer. Tighten all four screws EVENLY and AL- TERNATELY.

Words of Experience If you think some of the o ther assembl-

ing procedures were tr icky on th is unit, s tand by! This next one will put you t o t h e test .

TWO Lever Installation 13- Lower t h e two levers in to t h e lower

unit, and then index t h e a rms t o t h e shi f t yoke. Insert the shift rod with the bend towards t h e driveshaf t.

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TYPE I I MANUAL SHIFT &35

14- Install t h e bolt through t h e a rms and t h e shi f t rod. R o t a t e t h e propeller s h a f t and at the same t i n e pull upward on the shi f t rod. This action will shi f t t h e unit i n t o FORWARD gear and the bolt will b e hinh enough t o permit tightening it. Move t h e shi f t rod downward t o the NEUTRAL position and at t h e s a m e t ime r o t a t e t h e propeller shaft. Watch the pinion gear as the propeller shaf t is rotated. The pinion g e a r should not move. Continue t o push t h e shi f t rod down a s f a r a s possible and at t h e s a m e t i m e turn t h e propeller shaft . As the propeller shaf t is ro ta ted CLOCKWISE, t h e pinion gear should turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE. Pull upward on t h e shi f t rod and engage t h e clutch dog in to t h e FORWARD gear. Turn t h e propeller shaf t CLOCKWISE and t h e pinion gear should turn CLOCKWISE.

Lower Pinion Gear Bearing Installation If this bearing was removed, perform

Step 16, t o install t h e bearing and shell. 16- Push the lower pinion gear bearing

shell in to t h e housing recess with t h e l e t t e r- e d side facing OUTWARD. C o a t the inside of t h e shell with needle hearing grease. Insert t h e individual needle bearings into t h e shell. The count must be t h e s a m e as noted during disassembling. The proper number allows t h e needles t o ro ta te and perform the i r bearing function properly.

17- Apply just a small amount of OAAC 1QQQ sealer around the shell and in the recess. Work a NEW O-ring in to t h e recess.

Drivesbf t Bearing Installation 15- Turn t h e upper half of t h e lower unit

upside down and press t h e driveshaft caged needle bearine in to place.

BEAR1 NES

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Lower Unit Mating 1% Clamp t h e l o v e r p ~ r t i s n af t h e low-

e r unit ta t h e work bench with a C-clamp on t h e anti-cavitation plate, or c lamo t h e unit in a vise. Lower t h e upper portion of t h e lower unit deww over the shi f t rod, but do not make con tac t with t h e surface of t h e lower portion. Vi th a l i t t l e distance he- t w e n t h e two parts, c lamp a pair of vise p r i ~ type aliers onto one of the s tuds t o hold t h e units apar t . Coa t t h e lower p o r t i o ~ surface with OF" 1000 sealer. Pernave t h e vise p r i ~ pliers and lower t h e upper portion t h e surfaces of t h e two lower unit sections make contact . Thread a NEW nut onto each stud. The nuts a r e self-locking and should NEVER be used a secsnc" t i m e hecause a f t e r t h e f i rs t use, they lose thei r lockinp ability. Tighten t h e nuts EVXNLY and ALTER- NATELY.

GOOD WORDS Some bearing carriers use a gasket and

an O-ring, while others just use t h e e r i n g . Check t h e horsepower and model year of t h e

unit being serviced, then determine t h e type installation from the par ts book.

19- If t h e upper bearing carr ier was removed, install the driveshaft down into the housing.

20- Slide t h e upper bearing carr ier down t h e driveshaft and in to t h e housing. Install t h e four retaining bolts.

21- If the bearing carr ier was not removed, install t h e driveshaf t down through t h e bearing carr ier and into t h e lower unit. Cover t h e splines of t h e driveshaft with protect ive tape. Work a NEW seal down t h e driveshaft. Tap t h e seal in to t h e bearing head.


22- Coat t h e upper housing surface with OMC 1000 Sealer, or equivalent. Slide a NEW water pump gasket down onto t h e housing surface. C o a t the top surface of t h e gasket with sealer. Slide t h e wa te r pump plate down into position on t h e gasket.

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Install a NEW Woodruff key in to t h e driveshaft.

23- Slide t h e water pump impeller down t h e driveshaft and in to place on t o p of t h e water pump base plate with t h e pump key indexed in t h e impeller. Lubricate t h e inside surface of the water pump with light- weight oil.

24- Lower t h e water pump housing down t h e driveshaft and over the impeller. Ro- tate t h e driveshaft CLOCKWISE as t h e wa- t e r pump housing is lowered t o allow the impeller blades to assume thei r natural and proper position inside t h e housing. Continue t o ro ta te t h e driveshaft and work t h e wa te r pump housing downward until i t is sea ted on t h e lower unit upper housing.

25- ALWAYS ro ta te t h e driveshaft CLOCKWISE while t h e screws a r e t ightened t o prevent damaging t h e impeller vanes. If t h e impeller is not rotated, t h e housing could damage or c u t t h e end of the vanes as t h e screws a r e brought up tight. The rotation allows them t o spring back in a natural position. Place NEW grommets in to t h e water pump housing for the water tubes. Install a NEW seal ring on top of t h e water Pump

26- Install a NEW O-ring on the t o p of t h e dr iveshaf t.

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VERY GOOD WORDS Connecting t h e shi f t rod with t h e coup-

ler is not an easy task but can be accomplished a s follows: First, notice the cu tou t a rea on t h e end of t h e shift rod, Illustration "F". This a rea permits the bolt t o pass through t h e coupler, past t h e shift rod, and in to the other side of the coupler, Illustra- tion "Gm. It is th is bolt t h a t holds t h e sh i f t rod in the coupler. Now, in order for t h e bolt t o be properly installed, t h e cutout a r e a on t h e shift rod MUST be aligned in such a manner t o allow t h e bolt t o be properly installed. Therefore, as the lower unit is m a t e d with t h e exhaust housing, exercise patience as the two units come together, t o enable t h e bolt t o be installed at t h e proper time. If the rod is allowed t o move too f a r in to t h e c o u ~ l e r before t h e bolt is installed, i t may b e 'possible t o force t h e bolt i n t i place, past t h e shi f t rod. The threads on t h e bolt will b e stripped, and t h e shi f t rod will eventually come out of t h e coupler.

Coupler Installation Normally the coupler is not removed. In

most cases i t s tays with t h e upper shi f t rod. If, however, t h e coupler was removed, fo r any number of reason, perform S tep 24.

Install the coupler onto the upper unit shift rod, with t h e NO THREAD section facing towards the window. With t h e coupler in th is position, t h e bolt may b e inser ted through t h e coupler and "catch" t h e threads on t h e f a r side. Install t h e coupler bolt in t h e manner described in the previous paragraph.

27- Check t o be sure the water pickup tubes a r e clean, smooth, and f r e e of any corrosion. Coa t the water pickup tubes and grommets with lubricant a s an aid t o installation. Shift the lower unit in to FORWARD or REVERSE gear as an aid t o rotating t h e s h a f t and t h e lower unit housing is worked towards t h e exhaust housing. Guide t h e lower unit up into t h e exhaust housing with t h e water tube sliding in to t h e rubber grom- m e t of the water pump. Continue t o work t h e lower unit towards t h e exhaust housing, and at the s a m e t i m e ro ta te t h e propeller shaf t a s an aid t o indexing t h e driveshaft splines with t h e crankshaft.

S ta r t t h e bolts securing t h e lower unit t o t h e exhaust housing. Tighten t h e bolts EV- ENLY and ALTERNATELY.

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28- Insert the bolt into t h e connector. TAKE TIME t o read and understand t h e "Good Wordsn following Step 26, before making this connection.

29- After t h e bolt is in place, install and secure t h e gasket and inner window with t h e a t taching hardware. Install t h e outer window and gasket.

Filling Lower Unit See Section 8-3 for detailed instructions


Propeller Installation See Section 8-2 for detailed procedures


Engine Shift Linkage Adjustment See special instructions beginning on

page 8-8, t o make this adjustment.


completed work by mounting t h e engine in a test tank, in a body of water, or with a flush

a t t achment connected t o t h e lower unit. If t h e flush a t t achment is used, NEVER operate t h e engine above an idle speed, because t h e no-load condition on t h e propeller would allow t h e engine t o RUNAWAY resulting in serious damage or destruction of t h e engine.

CAUTIOIM: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump.

Sta r t the engine and observe t h e t a t t l e- ta le flow of water f rom idle relief in t h e exhaust housing. The water pump installation work is verified. If a flush a t t achment is connected t o the lower unit, VERY LIT- TLE water will be visible f rom t h e idle relief port. Shift the engine into the th ree gears and check for smoothness of operation and sa t is factory performance.

Lower unit with a flush attachment installed. The unit should NEVER be run above idle speed with such a device.

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8-7 TYPE 111 ELECTROMATIC LOWER UNIT SERVICE 75 HP - 1962 THRU 1965 80 HP - 1%6 AND 1967 85 HP - 1968 90 HP - 1964 AND 1%5 100 HP - 1966 THRU 1968

DESCRIPTION TYPE 111 AND TYPE IV LOWER UNITS

This section includes description, troubleshooting, and service procedures for t h e Type 111 lower unit. The Type IV unit used with t h e 100 hp -- 1966 t o 1968 will have separa te service procedures, presented in Section 8-8.

Operation When the unit is shifted t o t h e forward

position, an e lect r ic switch in t h e shi f t box closes the circuit t o the forward electro- magnet ic coil in t h e gearcase. Af te r t h e coil is energized, magnetism a t t r a c t s and anchors t h e f r e e end of t h e clutch spring t o t h e flange of the clutch hub. The revolving gear causes t h e spring t o wrap around t h e hub, creat ing a di rect coupling with t h e propeller shaft .

Power is t ransmit ted through the pinion gear , forward gear, and propeller shaf t t o t h e propeller, Illustration "A".

When t h e lower unit is shifted t o t h e reverse position, t h e reverse coil i s energized, and t h e same sequence of events t a k e s place. The reverse gear assembly is AL- WAYS t h e one nearest t h e propeller.

The boat ba t t e ry provides 12-volt power for operation. . Theref ore, all engines covered in this manual a r e equipped with an a l ternator t o maintain ba t t e ry amperage and voltage for efficient operation of t h e

shi f t mechanism. When t h e key is in t h e ON position, power moves through t h e ignition switch t o t h e switch in t h e shi f t box, and on t o t h e lower unit.

The necessary wiring is routed from t h e dash t o t h e shi f t box, then t o t h e rear of t h e engine t o a knife-disconnect f i t t ing, and then down t o t h e lower unit. The forward shi f t wire is green and t h e reverse wire is blue. An easy way t o remember t h e color code is green for go, forward t h a t is.

TROUBLESHOOTING TYPE 111 AND TYPE IV LOWER UNITS

In order t o prevent unnecessary service work, specific troubleshooting should be performed. The following s teps present a logical sequence of t e s t s and checks t o pinpoint problems in a Type 111 and Type IV lower unit.

1- Check t h e quanti ty of lubricant in t h e lower unit and top i t off, if necessary. The unit will not opera te properly if a lubricant o ther than OMC Type C or Premium Lube is used. If any doubt exists a s t o t h e type of lubricant in the lower unit, drain t h e unit, refill with t h e Type C , now known a s Pre- mium Lube material , and then check operation of t h e shi f t mechanism. At t h e s a m e t i m e the quanti ty of lubricant is being checked, observe t h e mate r ia l carefully for any sign of water. Position a suitable container under t h e lower unit, and then remove t h e FILL plug and t h e VENT plug.

CAUTION WORDS Do not remove the plugs if t h e engine

has been operated recently, or if t h e unit has been si t t ing exposed t o t h e hot sun. If

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TYPE I l l ELECTROMATIC 8-4 1

W A S

one of t h e plugs should be removed when t h e lubricant is hot, t h e material will squirt o u t under considerable pressure.

Allow the lubricant t o drain into the container. As t h e lubricant drains, c a t c h some with your fingers, from time-to-time, and rub i t between your thumb and finger t o determine if any metal part icles a r e present. If me ta l is detected in t h e lubricant, t h e unit must be completely disassembled, inspected, t h e cause of t h e problem determined, and then corrected.

2- Check fo r a broken shear pin by removing the propeller. First pull t h e c o t t e r key, and then remove t h e propeller nut, drive pin, and washer. Because the drive pin is not a tight f i t , t h e propeller is able t o move on the pin and cause burrs on t h e hole.

Propeller removal may be difficult because of these burrs. To overcome this problem, t h e propeller hub has two grooves running t h e full length of the hub. Hold t h e shaf t f rom turning, and then r o t a t e t h e propeller 114 turn t o position the grooves over t h e drive pin holes. The propeller can then b e pulled s t ra ight off the shaft. Af te r t h e propeller has been removed, f i le t h e drive pin holes on both sides of the s h a f t t o remove t h e burrs.

are an assist when removing the propeller.

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8-42 LOWER UNIT

3- Check t h e propeller and t h e rubber hub. See if t h e hub is shredded. If t h e propeller has been subjected t o many s t r ikes against underwater objects, i t could slip on i t s hub. For th is s ize engine, in most cases, i t is less expensive t o purchase a new propeller instead of having i t rebuilt.

4- Battery Check: Begin with a thorough check of the battery. Measure t h e gravity of t h e e lect rolyte in each cell by withdrawing only enough t o l i f t t h e f loat . Take t h e reading at e y e level. A fully charged ba t t e ry cell should read 1.280; at half-charge, 1.210; and a dead ba t t e ry will read only 1.150. If t h e e lect rolyte level is low, bring i t up t o full level with clean c lear water. NEVER ADD ACID t o a ba t t e ry cell. If water is added, i t is not possible t o t a k e an accurate reading until the ba t t e ry has been charged for a few hours.

5- Battery Voltage: Check t h e to ta l ba t t e ry voltage for a full 12 volts. Clean any corrosion from, on, or, around t h e cables and terminals. Remove t h e cables, clean the posts until bright metal i s visible. Scrape ou t t h e inside of t h e ba t t e ry terminals, then connect and t ighten them securely.

6- Amperage Draw Check: Turn t h e ignition switch t o t h e ON position and observe the amperage reading on the dash ammete r . If an ammete r is not installed on t h e dash, one must be temporari ly connected t o t h e system for th is t e s t , by f i r s t removing the wire marked BAT f rom t h e key

switch, and then connecting t h e a m m e t e r in ser ies with this wire and the key switch terminal marked BAT.

Check t h e current draw. If the draw exceeds 2.5 amps in e i ther gear, disconnect t h e shi f t wires at t h e shi f t wire disconnects on t h e por t side of t h e engine. Again, check t h e current draw. A higher reading than 2.5 amps indicates a shor t in t h e wiring, in the shi f t switch, or in t h e shi f t box. If the readings a r e within acceptable limits, reconnect the shi f t wires at t h e engine, shi f t t h e unit in to forward and then reverse gear. Check t h e current draw in each gear. A high-amp draw, indicates a shorted wire t o the lower unit, or a short in one of the coils.

A broken driveshaft from the powerhead t o t h e lower unit indicates both forward and reverse gears were energized at the same time. Check t h e shi f t box, shi f t switch, and t h e wiring t o the lower unit.

7- Defective Wiring Check: Leave t h e wire marked BAT disconnected f rom the key switch f o r th is test. Check t h e wiring

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TYPE I l l ELECTROMATIC 8-43

leading t o t h e ignition switch, and f rom t h e switch f o r 12 volts. If t h e reading is less than 12 volts, t h e key switch is defect ive and should be replaced.

8- Shift Box and Coil Tests: Disconnect t h e blue and green shift wires at t h e rear of t h e engine. Connect one lead of a volt- m e t e r t o t h e green wire of t h e shi f t box, and t h e other lead t o a good ground. Turn t h e ignition switch t o ON, and move t h e shi f t lever into forward gear. The volt- m e t e r must indicate 12 volts. Next, con- n e c t the voltmeter t o the blue wire, shi f t into reverse gear, and t h e vol tmeter should indicate 12 volts. If the voltmeter fa i ls t o indicate 12 volts during e i ther one of t h e s e tests, the shi f t box requires service, s e e Chapter 7, Accessories.

Leave the shi f t wires disconnected; turn t h e ignition switch OFF; move t h e sh i f t lever t o t h e NEUTRAL position; and connect one lead s f an ohmmeter t o t h e green (forward) wire leading f rom the rear of the engine t o t h e lower unit, and t h e other l ead t o a good ground. The ohmmeter should indicate f rorn 4.5 t o 6.5 ohms. Make t h e s a m e tes t for reverse gear, t h e blue wire leading from t h e rear of t h e engine t o t h e lower unit, and check for t h e s a m e reading. If t h e ohmmeter fails t o indicate t h e required resistance, a wire is broken, or t h e coil in t h e lower unit is shorted.

ELECTROMATIC REMOVAL TYPE 111 LOWER UNIT 75 I-IP - 1962 THRU 1965 80 H P - 1966 AND 1967 85 H P -- 1968 90 HP - 1964 AND 1965

REMOVAL

Propeller Removal Remove the propeller according t o t h e


Draining Lower Uni t Drain the lower unit according t o the


Preparation Work Disconnect the cables f rorn the battery.

Remove t h e hood.

Lower Uni t 1- At the rear of the engine, slide t h e

insulating sleeve back on t h e shi f t cab le wires. Pisconnect the shi f t and engine sh i f t terminals.

2- Remove the a t taching hardware from t h e exhaust p la te on t h e starboard side of t h e engine. Remove the two screws from t h e inner plate and clamp on t h e shift wire.

Pull the shift wire down through the exhaust cover. Apply oil or soap onto t h e cable and remove the inner plate from the cable.

3- If the lower unit being serviced has t h e 6-inch extension above t h e lower unit, remove t h e screws f rom the bot tom side of

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8-44 LOWER UNIT

t h e extension. I t is not necessary t o remove t h e extension in order t o remove t h e lower unit. Remove screws securing t h e lower unit t o the exhaust housing or t o t h e extension. Work t h e lower unit away f rom t h e exhaust housing or extension. The water tubes may be stuck in t h e water pump. Therefore, if difficulty is encountered in f reeing t h e lower unit, fo rce a wide blade chisel, stiff scraper, or o ther suitable tool, between t h e two surfaces and work each side of t h e lower unit away from the exhaust housing.

DISASSEMBLING

4- Se t the cavitat ion pla te on t h e edge of t h e work bench or o ther suitable surface, and secure i t f irmly with a C-clamp. An a l t e rna te method is t o c u t a deep "Vn in a piece of 2" x 6" (5 x 15 cm) piece of wood, and then slide t h e lower unit in to t h e "V", rest ing i t on t h e cavitat ion plate.

5- Remove t h e O-ring from t h e top of t h e dr iveshaf t . AUTHOR'S APOLOGY

The photographs taken for this section involved a water pump from a manual shift lower unit. However, t h e pump and the service procedures a r e identical fo r t h e Elec t romat ic shift. Theref ore, disregard t h e shi f t rod shown in t h e photographs.

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TYPE111 ELECTROMATIC 8-45

WATER PUMP REMQVAL

6- Remove t h e screws a t taching t h e wa- t e r pump t o the lower housing. If t h e screws a r e stubborn and refuse t o release, or if they break off due t o corrosion, i t may be necessary t o actually chisel t h e wa te r pump f r e e of the housing. Lift t h e water pump and impeller up off t h e driveshaft.

7- Remove the Woodruff key f rom t h e dri'veshaft, and then remove t h e base p la te and gasket f rom the lower unit housing.

GOOD WORDS The upper bearing and seal assembly is a

very t ight f i t in to t h e upper gear housing. Usually one or more of t h e mounting bolts will break during removal. After all t h e bolts a r e removed t h e bearing carr ier is still difficult t o remove.

& Clamp t h e driveshaft in a vise about midway. Tap on t h e housing with a soft- headed mallet and "pull" t h e shaf t f rom t h e housing.

As t h e shaf t is removed, a doughnut on the end of t h e shaf t will "pull" t h e seal with it. After t h e sea t and shaf t have been removed, a check of the bearing can be made t o determine if i t must be replaced.

9- If t h e bearing is defect ive and unfit fo r fur ther service, remove t h e four screws, and then work two screwdrivers under t h e bearing head and remove t h e bearing. The O-ring around t h e outside edge of t h e bearing MUST be replaced with t h e bearing.

If t h e only work t o b e performed i s service of the water pump, proceed directly t o Page 8-59, Water Pump Installation.

10- Lay t h e lower unit f l a t on t h e bench because when t h e gearcase nuts a r e removed, t h e lowef section could drop t o t h e floor and be severely damaged. Use a 9/16" deep- well socket and remove t h e lower unit gearcase stud nuts, then t h e washers. DISCARD t h e nuts because they a r e the self-locking type and MUST NOT be used a second t ime.

11- Tap the f ront cone with a soft- headed mal le t t o separa te t h e lower housing f rom t h e upper housing a distance of about 3".

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After t h e uraper and lower housings have been separated about 3" (7.62 cm), slide t h e terminal sleeves on t h e forward and reverse wires t a c k a d disconnect t h e quick-disconnects of t h e shi f t cable t o t h e coil.

SPECIAL NOTE T5e upper housirig has a bearing Po ac-

corrrreic!ete t h e pinion gear. This bearing is comprised of 20 individual needles. TAKE CARE not t o lose any of t h e needles t o t h e

bearing se t , as the needles a r e removed, or t h e y fall out.

VERY GOOD WORDS If the lower housing cannot be dislodged

f rom t h e upper housing, because t h e long bolts extending through t h e upper housing in to t h e lower housing a r e badly corroded, a decision must be made. Something will b e destroyed in order t o proceed with t h e work. In almost all cases the sacrif iced piece is t h e less expensive upper housing. There- fore , c u t through t h e upper housing on both sides, a s shown, Illustration "An. The lower housing can then be separated from the upper housing. The studs can then be press- e d o u t of the upper housing and t h e hacksaw c u t welded shut and t h e housing returned t o service. If t h e s tuds cannot be pressed f ree , t h e upper housing must be replaced.

Separating the upper and lower portions of the lower unit after the retaining bolts have been cut.

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TYPE Ill ELECTROMATIC 8-47

12- Clamp t h e lower unit by t h e skeg in a vise equipped with so f t jaws, as shown. Remove t h e retainer screw and washer, then l i f t t h e nylon coil lead retainer from the lower housing and at t h e s a m e t i m e work the forward and reverse wires f r e e of t h e retainer.

13- Remove the four screws in t h e bearing head. This is t h e cap t h e propeller s h a f t passes through. Notice how each screw has an O-ring behind t h e head. These O-rings MUST b e in place during installation t o maintain a water- tight unit.

14- With a small chisel and mallet , work t h e c a p f r e e of t h e propeller shaft . The chisel is t o be worked on the cap, NOT in t h e groove between t h e cap and t h e lower housing. If the c a p is damaged i t may be replaced without g r e a t expense, but damage t o t h e lower unit is BAD NEWS.


cedure and should be executed with c a r e while wearing SAFETY GLASSES. The retaining ring is under tremendous tension in t h e groove and while i t is being removed. If i t should slip off t h e Truarc pliers, i t will t ravel with incredible speed causing personal injury if i t should str ike a person. There-

fore , continue t o hold the ring and pliers f irm a f t e r t h e ring is out of t h e groove and c lear of the lower unit. Place t h e ring on t h e floor and hold i t securely with one f o o t before releasing the grip on t h e pliers. An a l t e rna te method is to hold t h e ring inside a t r ash barrel, or other suitable container, before releasing t h e pliers.

15- Obtain a pair of Truarc pliers. In- s e r t t h e tips of t h e pliers in to t h e holes of t h e retaining ring. Now, CAREFULLY remove t h e retaining ring f rom t h e groove and gear case without allowing the pliers t o slip. Release t h e grip on t h e pliers in t h e manner described in the WARNING just before this step.

16- Install the two screws in to t h e coil. These a r e t h e two screws t h a t were removed from the gear c a s e earlier. Rock t h e coil out and at t h e s a m e t ime feed t h e reverse coil blue wire down into t h e recess in the

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8-48 LOWER UNIT

lower unit. Continue working the coil out amount of heat will be required. Af te r t h e and down the propeller shaf t until i t is housing is heated, grasp t h e studs with a clear. The thrust washer will come off with gloved hand and at the same time the

t h e coil. housing on a board. The forward coil and 17- Hold t h e propeller shaf t f irmly and bearing race will be released f rom t h e hous-

pull i t f r e e from t h e lower unit housing. ing. If the tools a r e available, t h e coil and

While t h e shaf t is being pulled, feed t h e blue r a c e can be removed with no sweat.

wire down into the recess of t h e lower unit. The reverse gear, spring, hub, and babbit t thrust washer will c o m e out with t h e propeller shaft .

18- Reach into the lower housing and remove t h e pinion gear.

19- Remove the forward gear, spring, and hub assembly.

GOOD WORDS Rarely does the bearing in back of t h e

coil require replacement. If t h e lower unit has contained water over a period of t ime, or sustained other damage, t h e bearing may b e defective. The next two s teps need only be performed IF t h e coil and t h e bearing a r e unfit for fur ther service.

20- Notice the metal guard extending down t h e inside of t h e lower unit. This guard protects the forward coil wire. Iden- t i fy t h e Phillips screw in t h e bottom of t h e lower housing. Remove t h e screw and metal t a b in t h e bottom of t h e lower housing.

21- Using a special coil remover, tool No. 379784 and Kit No. 384414, remove t h e forward coil. If these tools a r e not available, you may heat t h e outside edge of t h e lower housing with a torch. A considerable

.. . . . . .

mer to remove the forwa race from the lower unit.

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22- Remove the seal f rom the gear case head, by driving i t ou t f rom t h e backside with a screwdriver or punch and mallet . This method is very effect ive and adjacent par ts a r e not harmed. Remove t h e O-ring from t h e bearing case head.

WORD OF ADVICE Professional mechanics have discovered

t h a t when t h e lower unit is being rebuilt, a new gear case head should be purchased and installed. The new head will have a new bearing, O-ring, and seal installed as an assembly.

23- On the upper housing of t h e lower unit, use a slide hammer with t h e adaptor f ingers f i t t ing behind t h e pinion gear bearing, and remove t h e bearing f rom t h e housing.

GOOD WORDS In most cases, i t is not necessary t o

remove t h e lower driveshaft bearing. A couple of quick checks can be made t o determine t h e condition of t h e bearing. One is t o feel the driveshaft in the a r e a where i t passes through t h e bearing. If t h e shaf t i s smooth with no indication of roughness, t h e bearing is usually considered f i t fo r fu r the r service. Another method is t o insert a finger in to t h e center of t h e bearing and determine if the needles roll f reely and smoothly. If t h e r e is no evidence of binding or roughness, the bearing does not have t o be removed and replaced. In other words, l e t a sleeping dog lie.

If the bearing is unfit for fur ther service, use a punch and hammer, and drive i t f r ee , Illustration "B!'. Further damage t o t h e bearing is of no consequence, because a new one is t o be installed.

MORE GOOD WORDS The forward and reverse gear assemblies

look almost identical. However, the re is a difference. The forward gear uses a babbitt bearing and t h e hub is knurled t o provide more positive engagement. The reverse gear assembly uses needle bearings and t h e hub is smooth. The g rea tes t percentage of motor operation is in forward gear with t h e reverse gear turning in t h e opposite direction. The needle bearings a r e used in t h e reverse gear hub fo r more sa t is factory operation.

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Proper gear installation is extremely cri- t ical for satisfactory performance. The hubs a re different and a r e easily identified. After the gears a r e assembled i t is very easy, in a moment of haste, t o pick a gear assembly from the bench and install i t in t h e wrong location. Theref ore, a f t e r t h e service work on the gears has been completed and they a r e ready fo r installation, identify one with a f e l t pen marking or with a t a g t o ensure proper installation.

STILL MORE GOOD WORDS If t h e clutch has been slipping, replace

t h e spring and the hub. I t is very difficult t o accurate ly determine what is considered "excessive" wear on these two i tems. There- babbitt bearing and the reverse gear a nee- if the dutch has been 'lipping, the dle bearing arrangement. Theref ore, EXER- modest cost of t h e spring and hub is justi-

CISE CARE when lifting the reverse gear fied in eliminating this a rea a s a possible the hub, not to lose any of the needles. source of shifting problems. 26- To remove t h e sprinns f rom t h e for-

Forward and Reverse Gear Disassembling 24- Obtain and wear a pair of SAFETY

GLASSES while working with t h e Truarc pliers in this step. Pract ice t h e s a m e SAFE- TY precautions given in Step 15 and t h e WARNING just before tha t step. Disas- semble t h e forward and reverse gear assembly using a pair of Truarc pliers and carefully remove t h e snap ring f rom t h e hub on t h e f ront of t h e gear.

25- Lif t the gear and spring assembly f rom t h e hub. As mentioned earl ier in t h e "More Good Words", the forward gear has a

ward and reverse gears, f k t remove t h e Allen screws around t h e outside diameter of each gear. Next, pull t h e spring f rom the gear. Notice t h e nylon tapered washer installed under the spring. This washer MUST be installed properly t o permit t h e spring t o seat level in the gear.

Perform Steps 24, 25, and 26, f o r t h e other gear.


Clean the parts with solvent and blow them dry with compressed air. Remove all seal and gasket mater ia l f rom mating sur-

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TYPE I l l ELECTROMATIC 8-5 1

faces. Blow all water and oil passages, and screw holes clean with air.

Af te r t h e parts a re clean and dry, apply a coating of lightweight engine oil t o the bearings and bright mating surfaces of t h e shaf ts and gears as a prevention against corrosion.

Inspect the shaf t bearing surfaces, splines, and keyways fo r wear and burrs. Check fo r evidence of an inner bearing race turning on t h e shaft . Check fo r damaged threads. Measure t h e runout on all shaf ts t o reveal any bent condition. If necessary, turn t h e shaf t in a l a the a s a check for out- of -round.

Carefully check the inside and outside surfaces of t h e gearcases, housing, and cov- e r s f o r cracks. Pay special a t tent ion t o the areas around screw and shaf t holes. Verify t h a t all t r aces of old gasket material have been removed f rom mating surfaces. Check O-ring grooves for sharp edges which could c u t a new seal. Inspect gear t ee th and s h a f t holes for wear and burrs. Hold t h e center r ace of each bearing and turn t h e ou te r r a c e t o be sure i t turns f reely without any evidence of rough spots or binding. Inspect t h e rollers and balls for any sign of pits or f l a t spots.

Inspect the outside diameter of the outer races and t h e inside diameter of t h e inner races for evidence of turning in t h e housing or on t h e shaft . Any sign of discoloration o r scores is evidence of overheating.

Lower unit with a broken stud. This type of damage is usually the result of not using a NEW nut on the stud the last time the unit was assembled. The nut worked loose, allowed the two sections to vibrate, and the stud was broken. The stud must now be drilled out m d replaced.

Comparison of a new thrust bearing (left) with a worn and broken beoring cage (right).

Check t h e thrus t washers f o r wear and distortion. If they do not have uniform thickness and lay f l a t , t h e y MUST be replaced.

Inspect all springs for tension, distortion, corrosion, or discoloration.

Inspect the shi f t cables for broken leads or damaged insulation. Use an ohmmeter and t e s t for continuity. Use t h e ohmmeter t o test t h e coil resistance which should indicate 4.5 t o 6.5 ohms. Check t h e coil leads fo r breaks and damaged insulation.

Check t h e water pickup screen on t h e upper housing. Blow a i r through t h e sc reen t o dislodge any debris. Clean t h e a r e a behind t h e screen.

SH I FT CABLE /

Replacing the shift cable by drilling out the remaining cable with an undersize drill cifter the old cable has been broken off as close to the housing as possible.

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6-52 LOWER UNIT

Inspect t h e propeller fo r cracks, gouged, bent, o r broken blades. Replace all bent, worn, corroded, or damaged parts. Burrs can be removed with a file.

ALWAYS install NEW O-rings, gaskets, and seals during assembling and installation t o prevent leaks.

ASSEMBLING ELECTROMATIC

Forward Gear 1- Insert the spacer, with i t s key, into

t h e slot in t h e cupped end of t h e FORWARD gear in such a way t h a t i t encircles t h e gear in t h e opposite direction t o t h e normal winding of the spring coils. Place t h e spring in t h e gear with t h e spring key beside t h e spacer key. Now, shi f t both keys t o . t h e side of t h e slot against which they will pull.

2- Coat the NEW setscrews with Loct i te TL-242, and install them in t h e forward gear. Tighten t h e setscrews in rotation, t o a torque value of 30-35 in.-lbs., beginning with the one nearest the spring. Bake t h e assembly in a 300' oven f o r 112 hour. If a n oven is not available, apply Locquic Primer "T" t o t h e screws before tightening them, and then allow them t o cure for 4 hours.

3- The tolerance between t h e clutch hub and t h e bushing is very close. CAREFULLY slide t h e gear and spring assembly onto t h e hub.


snap ring is placed under tremendous tension with t h e Truarc pliers while i t i s being

New shift cable ready for installation. Coat the cable with lubricant as an aid to installation.

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PINION GEAR -

ASSEMBLY

I

- I

0 a

- '3

CLUTCH DOG

yw CRADLE ,

SHIFT ROD

COUPLER

Exploded drawing of a Type III lower unit with principle parts identified.

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8-54 LOWER UNIT

placed in to t h e hub groove. Theref ore, wear SAFETY GLASSES and exercise ca re t o prevent t h e snap ring f rom slipping out of t h e pliers. If the snap ring should slip ou t i t would travel with incredible speed and cause personal injury if i t s truck a person.

4- Install t h e Truarc snap ring in to t h e groove of the forward gear hub.

Reverse Gear 5- Assemble the REVERSE gear by f i r s t

installing t h e nylon spacer in to t h e cupped end of the reverse bevel gear, with i t s key in t h e slot of t h e bevel gear. The spacer MUST be positioned t o encircle the cupped a rea in t h e opposite direction t o t h e normal winding of the spring coil. Install t h e spring with t h e key indexed in t h e slot beside t h e

~ L ~ E N SCREW @

spacer key. Slide both keys against t h e side of t h e slot they will pull against when t h e operator se lects REVERSE gear.

6- C o a t t h e Allen-head cup-point se t- screws with Locti te, and then install them t o secure t h e spring t o t h e bevel gear. Tighten the setscrews in rotation, t o a torque value of 30-35 in.-lbs., beginning with the one nearest t h e spring. Bake t h e assembly in a 300' oven f o r 112 hour. If an oven is not available, apply Locquic Primer "T" t o t h e screws before tightening them, and then allow them t o c u r e for 4 hours.

7- TAKE NOTE of t h e ring at t h e top of the reverse hub used t o re ta in t h e needle bearings. On some lower unit models, t h e needle bearings a r e held in a cage. On other units t h e needle bearings merely f i t around t h e hub. The cor rec t number of needles will fill t h e cage. This ring is t h e only visible difference between the forward and reverse hubs. Coat t h e needle bearings with g rease o r vaseline t o hold them in place. ALWAYS count and t a k e ca re t o be sure t h e to ta l number of needle bearings a r e replaced during installation. NEVER use a grease t o hold

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t h e needles in place which will not dissolve quickly, or t h e parts will be ruined due t o lack of initial lubrication. After t h e needle bearings a re all in place, CAREFULLY sl ide t h e gear-and-spring assembly down over t h e hub.

8- A Truarc snap ring secures t h e gear t o t h e hub. Use a pair of Truarc snap ring pliers t o install th is snap ring with t h e chamfered edge against t h e bevel gear.

WORDS OF ADVICE The next s t ep involves assembling t h e

bearing head, because e i the r t h e seal o r bearing, o r both were unfit for fur ther service. In this one case, i t may prove more provitable and efficient t o purchase and install a new bearing head. The new unit will have the bearing and seal installed, ready fo r service. If t h e decision is made t o rebuild t h e head, proceed with S t e p 9, otherwise skip t o S tep 10.

Assembling the Bearing Head 9- If t h e bearing head seal was removed,

press a new seal into t h e head. The seal can be installed using a block of wood and a mallet . If the bearing was removed, install a new bearing f rom t h e back side of t h e head. A special bearing installer tool, No. - 308119 is required t o install t h e bearing. Press against t h e LETTERED side of t h e bearing, until t h e bearing is flush with t h e head surface. If the special bearing tool is not available, a new head must be purchased with t h e bearing installed. Install a NEW O- ring around t h e head seal.

Assembling the Lower Unit 10- If t h e lower driveshaft bearing was

removed, now is t h e t i m e t o install t h e NEW bearing. Obtain special tool OMC No. 308102 and No. 378737 from Kit No. 378446. Install t h e bearing, using t h e special tool. Install t h e bearing race by tapping i t on the l e t t e red side until i t is fully seated. The needle bearings will NOT b e installed at this t ime.

Propeller Shaft Front Bearing Race 11- Install t h e f ront propeller shaf t

bearing race, using driver shaf t guide pla te and bearing race installer, Tool No. 379248 f rom tool kit No. 384415. Place t h e tapered f ron t portion of the lower unit on a block of

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8-56 LOWER UNIT

wood and drive t h e race in to t h e housing. If t h e special tools a r e not available, t h e outside diameter of t h e lower unit may b e heated and t h e race tapped in with a wooden block and mallet .

12- Install t h e cone-shaped roller bearing in to t h e bearing race Naturally, t h e tapered end of the bearing enters t h e race first.

13- Install t h e forward coil in t h e housing using special tool No. 379245 from tool k i t No. 384415. Feed t h e coil wire into t h e groove in t h e bottom of t h e housing.

14- Install the small washer and screw securing t h e wire in t h e recess in t h e bottom of the housing. The wire has a plastic covering. This covering must be located behind t h e metal guard. The guard c lamp must f i t alongside t h e housing. Install t h e Phillips screw in the bottom of the housing with pa r t of t h e meta l t a b protruding ou t of t h e square hole on t o p of the lower unit and also with t h e wire coming out t h e hole.

15- Lower the forward gear, hub, and spring assembly, in to t h e lower unit and over t h e forward coil.

16- Install the thrust bearing over t h e shank of t h e pinion gear, then t h e th rus t washer. Position t h e pinion gear into i t s recess, resting against t h e f orward gear.

17- Hold t h e pinion gear up and at t h e s a m e t i m e install t h e propeller shaft . As t h e propeller shaf t is moved into t h e lower unit, turn t h e shaf t slowly CLOCKWISE t o

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TYPE 111 ELECTROMATIC 8-57

allow t h e splines on t h e propeller shaf t t o engage in t h e forward gear.

1% Install the reverse gear with the splines of t h e reverse gear hub engaged with the splines of the propeller shaft .

19- Install t h e reverse coil, then feed t h e blue lead through the opening in t h e lower housing. The lead on t h e back side of t h e coil MUST be on TOP.


snap ring is placed under tremendous tension with the Truarc pliers while i t is being placed in to t h e groove. Therefore, wear SAFETY GLASSES and exercise c a r e t o prevent t h e snap ring f rom slipping ou t of t h e pliers. If the snap ring should slip out, i t would travel with incredible speed and cause personal injury if i t s truck a person.

20- use a- pair of ~ r u a r c pliers and install the Truarc snap ring into the groove just forward of t h e coil. Check t o b e s u r e the coil leads a r e correctly positioned and will not be damaged by any moving par t in t h e lower unit. Double check t o b e sure t h e green lead is well protected by t h e m e t a l guard.

21- Slide t h e thrust washer onto t h e propeller shaf t and in to t h e recess of t h e coil with the babbitt side of the washer FACING t h e coil.

GOOD WORDS Alignment of the gear case head holes

with t h e holes in t h e reverse coil is very difficult because once the head is in place, t h e O-ring prevents t h e head f rom turning. Theref ore, before installing t h e gear case head, insert a guide pin in to opposite corner

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8-58 LOWER UNIT

Bearing head screw with O-ring. A NEW O-ring should be installed each time the screw is removed during service work. The recess in the screw heod must be cleaned to allow the O-ring to seat properly. I f the ring is left exposed, when the screw is tightened, the head will cut and destroy the sealing ability of the ring.

holes in t h e reverse co'il. Check t o be sure t h e large O-ring is properly positioned in t h e groove in t h e gear case head.

22- Install t h e gear case head with t h e holes in the head indexing over the pins protruding from t h e reverse coil holes as described in t h e previous paragraph, "Good Wordsn. Slide an O-ring onto each screw, and then dip t h e gear case head screws in Per fec t Seal No. 4, or equivalent. Now, s t a r t the screws through t h e holes t h a t do not contain pins. DO NOT t ighten t h e screws at this time. Remove t h e two pins and s t a r t t h e other two screws. Tighten t h e four screws ALTERNATELY and EVENLY. R o t a t e t h e propeller shaf t and check t o be sure i t turns without excessive drag.

23- Se t t h e wires in to t h e retainer and secure them in place with the screw and washer. The washer will hold t h e screw.

24- Check t o be sure t h e coils have not grounded t o the lower unit. This can b e accomplished by using an ohmmeter t o check t h e forward and reverse coil f o r resistance. The m e t e r should indicate 4.5 t o 6.5 ohms resistance.

25- Turn the upper section of t h e lower unit upsidedown. Apply a heavy coating of OMC needle bearing lubricant in to t h e pinion gear race. Install t h e 20 needle bearings in t h e outer race.

26- Coat the O-ring groove around t h e pinion gear bearing with sealer. Install t h e O-ring into t h e groove.

27- Clamp the skeg of t h e lower section in a vise. At tach a pair of vise grip pliers about 3" (7.62 cm) up on one of t h e lower section studs. Lower t h e upper sect ion down over t h e studs until the section res ts on t h e vise grip pliers. Connect t h e wire cable, green-to-green and blue-to-blue. Pull t h e sleeves down over t h e connectors. Ap- ply sealer around t h e surface of t h e lower section O-ring. Remove t h e vise grip pliers f rom the stud and slowly lower t h e upper housing down onto t h e lower section.

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28- Check t o be sure the shi f t cable retaining fork (actually a washer-type i t em) is over t h e hole as the stud passes through t h e retainer washer. Continue t o lower t h e upper housing and at the s a m e t i m e work t h e shi f t wires up in to t h e cavity of t h e upper housing t o prevent the wires f rom being pinched when t h e upper housing makes c o n t a c t with t h e lower section. Place a washer over t h e other stud. Thread NEW nuts onto t h e studs.

SPECIAL WORDS These nuts a r e t h e self-locking type and

should not be used a second t ime. Once they have been tightened, t h e locking abil i ty is lost.

Tighten the nuts ALTERNATELY and EVENLY.

Obtain an ohmmeter. Check t h e resistance of the forward and reverse wires for 4.5 t o 6.5 ohms resistance. If t h e ohmmeter does not indicate t h e proper resistance on each lead, t h e lower unit MUST be separated and t h e wiring checked for a short or broken wire.

29- Lower t h e driveshaft down into the lower unit. As t h e driveshaft is lowered, ro ta te t h e shaf t slowly t o permit t h e splines on t h e shaf t t o index with t h e pinion gear.

GOOD WORDS If the upper bearing was NOT removed,

proceed as follows: Cover t h e splines of t h e driveshaft with electrical tape, pulled as t ight a s possible t o allow t h e driveshaft t o pass through the bearing and t o allow t h e seal t o pass over t h e tape. Slide a NEW seal down the driveshaft and into place in t h e bearing housing. Tap t h e bearing in to place, Illustration "C", next page.

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8-60 LOWER UNIT

If t h e upper driveshaft bearing was removed, cover the splines on t h e driveshaft with electrical tape, pulled tight. Install t h e NEW seal in to the bearing housing, using a NEW gasket and a f t e r applying sea le r under t h e gasket. Secure t h e housing with t h e four screws, Illustration "Dm.


30- Apply sealer t o the upper housing surface, and then position a p la te gasket in place. Apply more sealer t o the upper surface of t h e gasket, then place t h e wa te r pump pla te in position on t h e upper housing. Install t h e Woodruff key in to t h e recess in t h e driveshaft.

31- Slide the MEW impeller down t h e driveshaft with t h e slot in t h e impeller

aligned with t h e Woodruff key. Continue t o work t h e impeller down t h e driveshaft until i t is resting on the surface of t h e water pump plate.

32- Lubricate the inside surface of the water pump with lightweight oil. Lower t h e water pump housing down the driveshaft and over t h e impeller. R o t a t e t h e driveshaft CLOCKWISE as the water pump housing is lowered t o allow t h e impeller blades to assume thei r natural and proper position inside t h e housing. Continue t o r o t a t e t h e driveshaf t and work t h e water pump housing downward until i t is seated on t h e lower unit upper housing .

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TYPE Ill ELECTRBMATIC 8-6 1

33- Coat t h e threads of t h e water pump at taching screws with sealer, and then secure t h e pump in place with t h e screws. Tighten t h e screws ALTERNATELY and EV- ENLY.

Check t o be sure the big doughnut-type O-ring seal on top of t h e water pump is in place. Install the O-ring onto t h e t o p of t h e driveshaf t just below t h e splines.

GOOD WORDS Clean both lower unit water tubes with

sandpaper. These tubes should be clean and shiny a s an a id t o mating the lower unit t o t h e exhaust housing. If these tubes a r e not thoroughly clean, g rea t difficulty may be encountered in mating t h e lower unit with t h e exhaust housing. After t h e water tubes have been cleaned, apply a light coating of oil or lubricant t o t h e outside surface of t h e tubes. Apply a light coating of oil t o t h e e lec t r i c shi f t cable.


34- Position the assembled lower unit under t h e exhaust housing. Work t h e elec- t r i c sh i f t cable up through t h e exhaust housing and ou t t h e hole on t h e starboard side. Slowly l i f t the lower unit into place with t h e driveshaft indexing with t h e crankshaft splines and the water tubes enter ing t h e exhaust housing grommets. I t may be necessary t o have an assistant r o t a t e t h e flywheel ever so slowly CLOCKWISE and t o pull t h e e lect r ic shi f t cable through while t h e lower unit is being m a t e d with t h e exhaust housing. Rotating the flywheel will permit t h e driveshaft t o index with t h e splines of t h e crankshaft. C o a t t h e threads of t h e a t taching screws with sealer. A f t e r t h e mating surfaces of the exhaust housing and t h e lower unit have made contact , s t a r t t h e screws securing t h e two units together. Tighten t h e screws ALTERNATELY and EV- ENLY.

35- Place a new gasket in position on t h e exhaust housing.

SPECIAL WORD The exhaust cover has a small short

sect ion of pipe on one side. This pipe mus t f a c e inward and downward and the shi f t cable passed through.

Feed t h e e lec t r i c sh i f t cable through t h e inner exhaust cover until t h e cover is in place on t h e surface of t h e exhaust housing.

Secure t h e cover in place with t h e two a t taching screws. A REMINDER: The upper screw also holds t h e c lamp used t o secure t h e shi f t cable in place.

Position the outer exhaust cover and gasket in place on t h e starboard side. Se- c u r e t h e cover in place with t h e a t taching hardware.

36- Connect t h e shi f t wires t o t h e harness at t h e back of t h e engine, BLUE-to- BLUE and GREEN-to-GREEN. Slide the rubber protect ive sleeves in place over t h e connectors.

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8-62 LOWER UNIT

Filling Lower Unit See Section 8-3 for detailed instructions





completed work by mounting t h e engine in a t e s t tank, in a body of water , or with a flush a t t achment connected t o t h e lower unit. If t h e flush a t t achment i s used, NEVER operate t h e engine above an idle speed, because t h e no-load condition on t h e propeller would allow t h e engine t o RUNAWAY resulting in serious damage or destruction of the engine.


Sta r t t h e engine and observe t h e t a t t l e- t a l e flow of water f rom idle relief in t h e exhaust housing. The water pump installation work is verified. If a flush a t t achment i s connected t o t h e lower unit, VERY LIT- TLE water will be visible f rom t h e idle reiief port. Shift t h e engine into t h e th ree gears and check f o r smoothness of operation and sa t is factory performance.

8-8 TYPE IV LOWER UNIT ELECTROMATIC 100 HP - 1966 THRU 1968

The Type IV lower unit is almost identical t o t h e Type I11 unit except fo r much heavier construction of t h e housing and component parts. The procedures do di f fer f rom the Type 111, theref ore this separate section for t h e 100 hp fo r t h e t h r e e model years, 1966 thru 1968.

Operation When t h e unit is shifted t o t h e forward

position, an e lec t r i c switch in t h e shi f t box closes t h e circuit t o t h e forward electro- magnet ic coil in t h e gearcase. Af te r t h e coil is energized, magnetism a t t r a c t s and anchors t h e f r e e end of t h e clutch spring t o t h e flange of t h e clutch hub. The revolving gear causes t h e spring t o wrap around t h e hub, creat ing a d i rec t coupling with t h e propeller shaft .

Power is t ransmit ted through t h e pinion gear, forward gear, and propeller shaf t t o t h e propeller.

When the lower unit is shifted t o the reverse position, t h e reverse coil is energized, and t h e s a m e sequence of events takes place. The reverse gear assembly is AL- WAYS the one nearest t h e propeller.

The boat ba t t e ry provides 12-volt power f o r operation. Theref ore, a l l engines covered in th is manual a r e equipped with an a1 ternator t o maintain ba t t e ry amperage and voltage for ef f ic ient operation of t h e shi f t mechanism. When t h e key is in t h e ON position, power moves through t h e ignition switch t o t h e switch in t h e shi f t box, and on t o t h e lower unit.

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TYPE IV ELECTROMATIC 8-63

The necessary wiring is routed f rom t h e dash t o t h e shift box; then t o t h e rear of t h e engine t o a knife-disconnect f i t t ing; and then down t o t h e lower unit. The forward sh i f t wire is green and the reverse wire is blue. An easy way t o remember t h e color code is green for go, forward t h a t is.

TROUBLESHOOTING

See t h e troubleshooting procedures given in Section 8-7, beginning on Page 8-40.

REMOVAL

Propeller Removal Remove t h e propeller according t o t h e


Draining Lower Unit Drain the lower unit according t o the


Preparation Work Disconnect the cables from the battery.

Remove t h e hood.

Lower Unit 1- A t t h e rear of the engine, disconnect

t h e blue and green wires leading t o t h e lower unit. F ree t h e shift cable by f i r s t bending back t h e clip located under t h e the rmos ta t housing at the rear of t h e engine.

2- Attach about a 5' (152 c m ) piece of wire t o t h e green and blue wires leading t o t h e lower unit. Tape the connections t o allow t h e wire t o feed through t h e exhaust housing as the lower unit is separated f rom t h e exhaust housing. These wires will prove very useful during installation of t h e lower unit t o t h e exhaust housing.

The extension will separate with t h e lower unit when i t is separated f rom t h e exhaust housing.

3- Remove t h e six nuts, th ree on each side of t h e anti-cavitation plate. Remove the two bolts extending up through t h e low- e r unit in to t h e exhaust housing. Work to separa te the lower unit f rom t h e exhaust housing. If t h e engine is still a t t ached t o t h e boat, i t may b e necessary t o lower t h e bow in order t o obtain enough c learance f o r t h e lower unit. I t may also be necessary t o wedge a tool between t h e surfaces of t h e lower unit and t h e exhaust housing in order t o jar t h e two housings apar t .

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8-64 LOWER UNIT

+ EXTENS l ON TUBE

5- Remove the short screw securing t h e water pump base plate, and then remove t h e base plate.

6- Remove the two Phillips head screws f rom just behind t h e water pump. Remove t h e two bolts f rom alongside t h e water tube. Pull t h e water tube f r e e of t h e lower unit.

7- Turn t h e lower unit upside down and remove t h e screws and t h e water pickup.

WATER PUMP REMOVAL

4- Set the cavitat ion plate on t h e edge of t h e work bench or o ther suitable surface , and secure i t f irmly with a C-clamp. An a l t e rna te method is t o c u t a deep "\F in a piece of 2" x 6" piece of wood, and then slide t h e lower unit in to t h e "V" resting i t on t h e cavitat ion plate. Remove the O-ring from t h e top of t h e driveshaft. Remove t h e extension tube. Remove the four screws through t h e water pump, and then pull t h e water pump, impeller, and Woodruff key f rom t h e dr iveshaf t .

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8- On units with t h e long shaf t exten- sions ONLY, t here is one more bolt inside where t h e water pickup was removed. Re- move th is bolt on these units.

9- Raise the six-inch extension about 4" (10.2 cm). C lamp a pair of vise grip pliers onto the driveshaft t o hold t h e extension above t h e lower unit housing. Pull back t h e sleeves on the green and blue wires and disconnect t h e wiring leading in to t h e lower unit. Notice t h e ring on t h e extension, used t o properly loca te t h e extension during installation.

Thrust Plate Removal 10- Remove the four screws, and then

t h e thrus t plate, bracket, and oil line extending into the lower unit. Pay part icular

a t tent ion t o how t h e oil l ine s e t s just in f ron t of the opening t o the upper thrust washer.

11- Remove t h e four screws securing t h e gearcase head to t h e lower unit, and then slide t h e gearcase head off t h e propel- le r shaft . Observe t h e reverse coil wire at t h e top of t h e coil. D O NOT remove t h e coil at this time.

12- Remove the two thrust washers and t h e thrus t bearing from t h e shaft . BEAR IN MIND the order of t h e washers, and the bearing, as an aid t o installation. Not ice t h e difference in t h e washer thickness. The thinner washer must be installed f i rs t a- gainst t h e reverse coil.


cedure and should be executed with c a r e

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8-66 LOWER UNIT

while wearing SAFETY GLASSES. The retaining ring is under tremendous tension in t h e groove and while i t is being removed. If i t should slip off t h e Truarc pliers, i t will t ravel with incredible speed causing personal injury if i t should str ike a person. There- fore, continue t o hold the ring and pliers firm a f t e r t h e ring is out of t h e groove and clear of the lower unit. Place t h e ring on t h e floor and hold i t securely with one f o o t before releasing the grip on the pliers. An a l t e rna te method is t o hold t h e ring inside a t rash barrel, or other suitable container, before releasing t h e pliers.

13- Remove t h e Truarc ring securing t h e reverse coil in place.

14- CAREFULLY pull t h e reverse coil lead down and out t h e hole prior t o removing the reverse coil in the next step.

15- Obtain special tool OMC No. 380658. Thread the tool into the reverse coil, and then pull t h e coil with t h e tool. If t h e special tool is not available, use a long bolt with a nut in t h e manner of a slide hammer.

16- The propeller shaf t has a cam. In order t o remove t h e shaf t , t h e high side of t h e cam must be DOWNWARD t o prevent e shaf t f r e e

damaging t h e oil pump in t h e bottom of t h e lower unit when the shaf t is removed. Al- gear, spring, and hub assembly will come ou t

right, t o position t h e cam downward, hold t h e propeller shaf t with feeling (as if you were turning t h e knob on a sa fe ) and r o t a t e t h e shaf t , ever so slowly, until you "FEEL"

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- 17- Reach in and l i f t t h e oil DumD f r e e

L &

of t h e lower unit. 18- A pinion gear and locknut hold t h e

driveshaft in t h e gearcase. Hold t h e nu t with a 1-1/16" wrench and a t t h e s a m e t ime, use a torque bar and special tool OMC No. 312752 t o turn the driveshaft. DISCARD t h e locknut a f t e r i t is f r e e because i t s locking abil i ty is ruined once t h e nut has been removed.

19- CAREFULLY l i f t the driveshaf t ou t of t h e lower unit with one hand and c a t c h t h e pinion gear with t h e other hand. Re- move t h e pinion gear. Remove t h e th rus t washer and the thrust bearing from t h e drives haf t .

20- Reach inside t h e housing and remove t h e pinion roller bearings. If t h e lower unit has been operated, when the level of t h e gear oil is low, t h e upper bearing on t h e driveshaf t will b e destroyed.

21- Reach inside t h e housing; insert two fingers into t h e center ~f t h e forward gear assembly; and then withdraw t h e assembly.

GOOD WORDS The coil and t h e rear bearing do not have

t o be removed unless they a r e unfit f o r fu r the r service.

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8-68 LOWER UNIT

22- Use Slide Hammer No. 380658 t o remove t h e forward coil and wire lead. TAKE CARE t o pull t h e coil out evenly t o prevent i t f rom binding in t h e housing.

23- Reach in and remove t h e forward bearing installed behind t h e coil.

24- Use special tool No. 380657 and a slide hammer t o remove t h e forward bearing cup from the lower gearcase.

25- If t h e upper bearing is unfit f o r fur ther service, obtain special tool OMC - No. 380657. Insert t h e special tool, "puller", in to t h e bearing and "pull" t h e bearing f r e e of t h e lower unit.

If the lower bearing sleeve is unfit fo r fur ther service, i t must be removed using special tool OMC No. 380659. A special handle, OMC No. 311885 must be used with t h e No. 380659 tool. Insert t h e tool down through t h e top of t h e housing and drive t h e sleeve f r e e of t h e lower unit.

MORE GOOD WORDS The forward and reverse gear assemblies

look almost identical. However, t h e r e is a difference. The forward gear uses a babbit t bearing and t h e hub is knurled t o provide more positive engagement. The reverse gear assembly uses needle bearings and t h e hub is smooth. The greates t percentage of

motor operation is in forward gear with t h e reverse gear turning in t h e opposite direction. The needle bearings a r e used in t h e reverse gear hub for more sa t is factory operation.

Proper gear installation is extremely cri t ical f o r satisfactory performance. The hubs a r e different and a r e easily identified. Af te r t h e gears a r e assembled i t is very easy, in a moment of haste, t o pick a gear assembly f rom t h e bench and install i t in t h e wrong location. Theref ore, a f t e r the service work on t h e gears has been completed and they a r e ready for installation, identify one with a f e l t pen marking or with a t a g t o ensure proper installation.

STILL MORE GOOD WORDS If the clutch has been slipping, replace

t h e s ~ r i n e : and t h e hub. I t is very difficult

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t o accurate ly determine what is considered "excessive" wear on these two items. There- fore, if the clutch has been slipping, t h e modest cost of t h e spring and hub is justified in eliminating this a rea a s a possible source of shifting problems.

Forward and Reverse Gear Disassembling 26- Obtain and wear a pair of SAFETY

GLASSES while working with t h e Truarc pliers in th i s step. P rac t i ce t h e s a m e SAFE- TY precautions given in S tep 13 and the WARNING just before t h a t step. Disas- semble the forward and reverse gear assembly using a pair of Truarc pliers and carefully remove the snap ring f rom t h e hub on t h e f ron t of t h e gear.

27- Lif t t h e gear and spring assembly f rom t h e hub. As mentioned earl ier in t h e "More Good Wordst1, t h e forward gear has a babbit t bearing and t h e reverse gear a needle bearing arrangement. Theref ore, EXER- CISE CARE when lifting t h e reverse gear f rom the hub, not t o lose any of t h e needles.

28- To remove t h e springs from t h e forward and reverse gears, f i rs t remove t h e Allen screws around t h e outside diameter of each gear. Next, pull the spring f rom t h e gear. Notice t h e nylon tapered washer installed under the spring. This washer MUST be installed properly t o permit t h e spring t o seat level in the gear.

Forty (40) needle bearings a r e used on t h e reverse clutch hub. The forward hub has a bronze bearing. NEVER interchange t h e s e bearings.


Clean t h e par ts with solvent and blow them dry with compressed air. Remove all seal and gasket mater ia l f rom mating surfaces. Blow all water and oil passages, and screw holes clean with air.

After t h e par ts a r e clean and dry, apply a coating of light engine oil t o t h e bearings and bright mating surfaces of t h e shaf ts and gears as a prevention against corrosion.

Inspect the shaf t bearing surfaces, splines, and keyways f o r wear and burrs. Check for evidence of an inner bearing race turning on t h e shaft . Check for damaged threads. Measure t h e runout on all shaf ts t o reveal any bent condition. If necessary, turn the shaf t in a l a the a s a check fo r out- of -round.

Carefully check t h e inside and outside

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8-70 LOWER UNIT

Comparison of a new thrust bearing (left) with a worn and broken bearing cage (right).

surfaces of t h e gearcases, housing, and covers for cracks. Pay special a t tent ion t o t h e areas around screw and shaf t holes. Verify al l t r aces of old gasket material has been removed f rom mating surfaces. Check 0- ring grooves for sharp edges which could c u t a new seal. Inspect gear t ee th and s h a f t holes for wear and burrs. Hold t h e cen te r r ace of each bearing and turn t h e ou te r r a c e t o be sure i t turns freely without any evidence of rough spots or binding. Inspect t h e rollers and balls for any sign of pits or f l a t spots.

Inspect the outside diameter of t h e outer races and t h e inside diameter of t h e inner races f o r evidence of turning in t h e housing or on t h e shaft . Any sign of discoloration o r scores is evidence of overheating.

Check t h e thrus t washers fo r wear and distortion. If they do not have uniform thickness and lay f l a t , they MUST be replac-

Magnet inside the lower unit. These magnets should be removed and cleaned any time the lower unit is disassembled for maintenance.

New shift cable ready for installation. Coat the cable with lubricant as an aid to installation.

Thoroughly clean t h e magnets of any metal l ic part icles or chips.

Inspect all of the springs for tension, distortion, corrosion, or discoloration.

Inspect the shi f t cables for broken leads or damaged insulation. Use an ohmmeter and test fo r continuity. Use t h e ohmmeter t o test t h e coil resistance which should indicate 4.5 t o 6.5 ohms. Check t h e coil leads for breaks and damaged insulation.

WATER INTAKE SCREEN AND

TUBE RING

Exploded drawing of lower unit housing, extension and associate parts, not shown on the next page.

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TYPE I\/ ELECTROMATIC 8-7 1

Clean and check t h e rudder and water in take screens. Check t h e water screen holes for evidence the screen is loose and has caused wear on t h e bottom.

Inspect the propeller for cracks, gouged, bent, or broken blades. Replace all bent , worn, corroded, or damaged parts. Burrs can be removed with a file.

ALWAYS install NEW O-rings, gaskets, and seals during assembling and installation t o prevent leaks.

LOWER UNIT ASSEMBLING

Forward Gear 1- Insert t h e spacer, with i t s key, into

t h e slot in t h e cupped end of t h e forward gear in such a way t h a t i t encircles t h e gear in t h e opposite direction t o t h e normal winding of t h e spring coils. The forward gear of th is lower unit does not use a sleeve. Place t h e spring in t h e gear with t h e spring key beside t h e spacer key. Now, shi f t both keys t o the side of the slot against which they will pull.

1 DRIVESHAFT ROLLER 8 ' \

2- Coat t h e NEW setscrews with Loct i te TL-242, and install them in t h e forward gear. Tighten t h e setscrews in rotation, t o a torque value of 30-35 in-lbs., beginning with the one nearest t h e spring. Bake t h e assembly in a 300' oven fo r 1/2 hour. If a n oven is not available, apply Locquic Primer "T" t o t h e screws before tightening them, and then allow them t o cure for 4 hours.

\ 8 BEARING

Exploded drawing of a Type N lower unit installed with the 100 hp powerhead.

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8-72 LOWER UNIT

3- The tolerance between t h e clutch hub and t h e bushing is very close. CAREFULLY slide t h e gear and spring assembly onto t h e hub. Install t h e Truarc snap ring with t h e chamfered (beveled) side of t h e retaining ring facing toward the gear. This arrange- m e n t places t h e square side of t h e Truarc ring in the groove of the hub.

Reverse Gear 4- Assemble the reverse gear by f i r s t

installing t h e spacer in to t h e cupped end of t h e reverse bevel gear, with i t s key in t h e slot of t h e bevel gear. The spacer MUST b e positioned t o encircle the cupped a r e a in t h e opposite direction t o t h e normal winding of t h e spring coil. Install the spring with t h e key indexed in t h e slot beside t h e spacer key. Slide both keys against t h e side of the slot they will pull against when reverse gear i s selected. C o a t t h e Allen-head CUD-~oin t

se tscrews with Loct i te , and then install them t o secure t h e spring t o the bevel gear. Tighten t h e se tscrews in rotation, t o a torque value of 30-35 in-lbs., beginning with t h e one nearest t h e spring. Bake t h e assembly in a 300' oven for 112 hour. If an oven is not available, apply Locquic Pr imer "T" t o the screws before tightening them, and then allow them t o cure fo r 4 hours.

5- Slide t h e sleeve over t h e spring with t h e flanged end pointing away from the bevel gear. TAKE NOTE of t h e ring a t t h e t o p of the reverse hub used t o re ta in the for ty needle bearings. This ring is t h e only visible difference between t h e forward and reverse hubs.

6- Coat the needle bearings with grease or Vaseline t o hold them in place. ALWAYS

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TYPE IV ELECTROMATIC %73

count a.nd t ake ca re t o be sure t h e to ta l number of needle bearings a r e replaced during installation. NEVER use a grease t o hold t h e needles in place which will not dissolve quickly, or t h e parts will be ruined due t o lack of initial lubrication. After t h e f o r t y needle bearings a r e all in place, CAREFUL- LY slide t h e gear-and-spring assembly down over t h e hub.


cedure and should b e executed with c a r e while wearing SAFETY GLASSES. The retaining ring is under tremendous tension while in t h e grip of t h e Truarc pliers and a f t e r i t is in place in t h e groove. If t h e retaining ring should slip off the Truarc pliers, i t will t ravel with incredible speed causing personal injury if i t should s t r ike a person. Therefore, continue t o hold t h e ring and pliers firmly a f t e r t h e ring is in t h e groove, and then release t h e pliers carefully.

7- A Truarc snap ring secures t h e bevel gear t o t h e hub. Use a pair of Truarc No. 6 snap-ring pliers t o install this snap ring with t h e chamfered edge against t h e bevel gear.

Forward Bearing 8- Til t t h e gearcase slightly, and then

a t t a c h Drive Handle, Tool No. 311880 t o Bearing Cup Installer, Tool No. 31 1872, and then s t a r t t o s e a t t h e cup at t h e f r o n t of t h e gearcase. Use EXTRA CARE not t o move t h e bearing cup.

9- After the cup is properly seated, install t h e forward bearing in to t h e bearing cup.

10- Before Coil Installation: Mark t h e f ron t of the coil opposite t h e wire ONLY WITH A LEAD PENCIL t o enable you t o see t h e mark as t h e coil is installed in to t h e rear of the housing.

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8-74 LOWER UNIT

11- Mark a line t o indicate t h e hole location in t h e gear housing. When t h e coil is properly installed, these marks MUST b e aligned.

12- The following special tools must b e obtained t o properly install t h e coil: OMC No. 380691, 31 1759, 31 1880. Now, install t h e forward coil in to t h e housing and at t h e s a m e t i m e feed t h e shift wire through t h e hole in t h e rear of t h e housing. As you push t h e coil inward, pull on t h e wire from inside t h e top of t h e lower unit. Next, align t h e mark you made on t h e coil with t h e mark on t h e housing. Insert t h e coil install- e r tool into t h e lower housing and into t h e coil. Press t h e forward coil inward and at t h e s a m e t i m e pull on the shi f t wire until t h e coil is fully sea ted in t h e housing. Re- move t h e installer tool.

After the coil is installed, use an ohm- m e t e r t o check t o be sure t h e wire behind t h e coil is not shorted. The coil resistance should be 4.5 - 6.5 ohms. An infinite reading indicates an open circuit , such as a broken wire. A reading of less than 4.5 ohms indicates a short circuit , such as a bare wire making contact with t h e case. Replace t h e coil if t h e resistance is too high because t h e clutch will slip.

Lower Pinion Gear Bearing and Upper Driveshaft Bearing Installation

13- Obtain special OMC tools No. 311876, 380758, and 312019. Insert t h e lower bearing sleeve in t h e housing, and then install t h e No. 380758 adaptor inside t h e race. Screw the long rod bolt through t h e top in to t h e special tool No. 312019. Insert the upper driveshaft bearing in to place, and then .use special tool No. 3 11 876

with a nu t on t h e tool stud. Tighten thg nut , and at t h e s a m e t i m e hold t h e lower installer with a wrench t o prevent i t from turning. Continue t o t ighten t h e nut until t h e lower bearing race and t h e upper bearing a r e in place in t h e recesses. Remove t h e special tools.

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14- Install t h e upper driveshaft bearing into t h e lower unit housing. The proper s ize socket may be used. Press against t h e l e t t e red side of the bearing.

15- Place t h e forward gear assembly in t h e gearcase, as f a r forward as possible and with t h e gear towards t h e propeller.

16- Coat the race at the bottom of t h e pinion driveshaft bore with needle bearing grease No. 378642. Install t h e 18 needle bearings. The grease will hold them in place.

17- Hold the pinion gear in place inside t h e lower unit with one hand and with t h e other, install the driveshaft. R o t a t e t h e driveshaft as i t moved in to place t o allow t h e splines on the shaf t t o index with t h e splines in t h e pinion gear. TAKE CARE not t o dislodge t h e needles in t h e lower pinion gear bearing a s t h e drive shaf t is lowered and engaged with t h e pinion gear.

18- Install a NEW locknut onto t h e end of the driveshaf t f inger-tight. NEVER use an old locknut because i t s locking abil i ty i s los t once i t is removed. Tighten t h e locknut t o a torque value of 70-80 ft- lbs using Driveshaft Holding Socket Tool No. 312752 and a 1-1/16" open-end wrench, as shown.

19- Slide the thrust bearing onto the driveshaf t, then t h e thrus t washer. Slide t h e t o p pla te down t h e driveshaf t.

20- Slide t h e oil l ine through t h e retain- e r and then down through t h e opening just behind t h e driveshaft and down into t h e hole in t h e lower unit housing. Se t t h e bracket on top of the top pla te and secure the bracket and pla te t o t h e lower unit housing with t h e a t taching screws.

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8-76 LOWER UNIT

21- Install t h e oil pump in to t h e lower unit housing. After t h e pump is in place, work i t up and down t o be sure i t functions properly, without evidence of binding.

22- Insert t h e propeller shaf t through t h e forward gear and coil into the bearing, with t h e propeller shaf t spline engaged in t h e spline of t h e forward d u t c h hub, AND with t h e cam on t h e shaf t facing upward t o provide c learance for t h e shaf t t o pass over t h e oil pump. Check t o be -su re t h e cam is positioned over t h e oil pump.

23- Place t h e reverse Rear assembly over t h e propeller shaf t w i t h t h e gear t e e t h engaged with t h e t ee th of t h e pinion gear.

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24- CAREFULLY slide t h e reverse coil over t h e propeller shaf t and in to t h e gearcase past t h e ring groove with t h e lead at t h e top. This lead MUST NOT be twisted o r kinked as i t leaves the coil.

25- Feed t h e lead through t h e hole, then reach into the cavi ty at the top rear of t h e gearcase, and pull t h e lead through.


cedure and should b e executed with c a r e while wearing S A F E N GLASSES. The retaining ring is under tremendous tension while in the grip of the Truarc pliers and a f t e r i t is in place in t h e groove. If t h e retaining ring should slip off the Truarc ~ l i e r s . i t will t ravel with incredible s ~ e e d

causing personal injury if i t should s t r ike a person. Therefore, continue t o hold t h e ring and pliers f irmly a f t e r t h e ring is in t h e groove, and then release t h e pliers carefully*

26- Using a pair of Truarc pliers, replace t h e snap ring in to t h e recess and against t h e reverse coil. TAKE CARE not t o damage t h e reverse coil wire. The snap ring opening MUST b e at t h e top of t h e housing to allow clearance f o r t h e shift wire t o - route into t h e hole.

Check t o be sure t h e coil and leads were not damaged during installation by making a resistance test . S e t t h e ohmmeter se lector switch t o t h e LO OHMS position, and then ze ro t h e meter . Make con tac t with t h e black mete r lead t o a clean metal surface of t h e gearcase and with t h e red ohmmeter l ead t o t h e connector of t h e green forward coil lead. The m e t e r reading must indicate 4.5-6.5 ohms. Conduct t h e s a m e test on t h e reverse coil. If e i ther coil is damaged, t h e unit must be repaired or replaced. Install t h e snap ring with t h e chamfered side facing in, and t h e open par t of t h e ring t o t h e top, t o allow t h e reverse coil wire room t o pass in to t h e u m e r hole.

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27- Install the thinner thrus t washer ov- e r t h e propeller shaf t , and then t h e th rus t bearing, and the remaining thrust washer. This arrangement is necessary t o position t h e reverse gear properly and t o control propeller shaf t end play.

Bearing Head Seal Installation FIRST, THESE WORDS

Several special tools a r e required t o install t h e seals and bearing in t h e bearing head. The bearing must be removed bkfore t h e seals can be installed. If a new bearing head is purchased, t h e seals, bearing, and O- ring will be included and installed. This may b e a cheaper route than buying t h e special tools and a t tempt ing t o install these items.

The seals a r e installed "back-to-back" with special grease between t h e two surfaces. One seal prevents lubricant in t h e lower unit f rom escaping, and t h e other seal prevents water from entering.

28- Special tools OMC No. 31 1877 and 31 1880, a r e required. If t h e special tools a r e not available or purchase cannot b e made, a proper size socket can be used. Coa t t h e outside surface of both seals with OMC Seal Compound, or equivalent. Drive t h e f i rs t seal into place using t h e special tools. C o a t the surface of the seal with Triple Guard Grease. Install t h e second seal back-to-back against the f i rs t seal, using t h e special tools.

29- Obtain special tool OMC No. 3 1 1869 and 311880. Drive t h e bearing in to t h e bearing head from the l e t t e red side of t h e bearing.

30- Alignment of the holes in t h e gear head with t h e holes in t h e coil is very difficult because once t h e head is in place t h e O-ring prevents t h e head f rom turning. Theref ore, before installing t h e gearcase head, insert a guide pin into opposite corner

holes or the reverse coil. C o a t t h e O-ring with light-weight oil or gasket seal compound, as an a id t o installation. Now, install t h e gearcase head with the holes in t h e head sliding over the pins in t h e reverse coil holes. Dip t h e retaining screws in sealing compound, and then install the two retaining screws in t h e holes without t h e pins.

31- Remove t h e pins; install t h e other two screws; and then t ighten t h e four retaining screws t o a torque value of 5-7 f t - lbs. R o t a t e t h e propeller shaf t and check t o b e sure the re is no evidence of drag.

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32- Restrain t h e reverse coil wire with t h e clamp and screw at the top of the gearcase. Install and push t h e two spring- and-magnet assemblies into the cavi t ies at t h e top of t h e lower gearcase until they a r e f irmly seated.

1000 Sealer, or equivalent. Tape t h e splines of t h e upper driveshaft. Lower t h e extension down over t h e driveshaft, bu t s top about 5" (12.7 c m ) from t h e lower unit surface. Connect the shift wires, nreen-to- green and blue-to-blue. Slide t h e 'protective sleeves over the connections. Lower t h e extension until t h e mating surfaces m a k e contact .

Lower Seal Installation - Extension 33- Coat t h e outside surface of t h e seals

with OMC Seal Compound. The seals a r e installed "back-to-back" with Triple Guard Grease between t h e two surfaces. The inner seal prevents lubricant in t h e lower unit f rom escaping and the outer seal prevents water from entering. Install t h e seals back- to-back with Triple Guard Grease between t h e two surf aces.

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36- Install t h e two Phillips screws alongside t h e shi f t wires and t h e two bolts on t h e opposite side extending alongside t h e water tube. Install t h e one bolt extending up f rom t h e lower unit into t h e extension. This bolt is not used with t h e 2" (5.1 cm) extension.

37- From t h e bottom side of t h e lower unit, install t h e bolt in to t h e extension. This bolt is ONLY used with t h e 5" (12.7 cm) extension.

38- Place a NEW grommet into t h e wat- e r pickup tube opening. Insert t h e wa te r pickup tube through the grommet , and then work the grommet in to t h e groove. Install t h e water pickup plate containing a grom- m e t in place. A bit of oil on t h e g rommet will ease installation. Secure t h e pickup pla te with t h e at taching screws.


39- Coat t h e mating surface of t h e low- e r unit with OMC 1000 sealer, or equivalent. Place a NEW water pump gasket in position. Apply more sealer on t h e water pump gasket. Lower t h e water pump pla te down t h e driveshaf t. s e c u r e the plate in place with

t h e one shor t screw on t h e port side of t h e plate. DO NOT t ighten this screw at this time.

40- Install t h e Woodruff key in the driveshaft, and then slide t h e wa te r pump impeller down t h e driveshaft with t h e slot in t h e impeller indexed over t h e Woodruff key. Se t t h e impeller onto t h e water pump plate.

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41- Coat t h e inside surface of t h e wa te r pump housing with light-weight oil. Slide t h e water pump housing down t h e driveplate and impeller. At t h e same t i m e r o t a t e t h e driveshaft CLOCKWISE t o allow t h e impel- le r fins t o assume thei r normal position. Continue working t h e housing downward unti l i t is seated on top of t h e plate. Install and t ighten t h e four screws securing t h e water pump housing t o t h e lower unit housing.

Install t h e seal ring on top of the water pump. The ends of t h e extension tube a r e of d i f ferent sizes. The word "UP" is s tamped on t h e tube t o indicate which end of t h e t u b e is t h e upper end. Install t h e extension tube down over t h e driveshaft with t h e proper end of t h e tube at the top. Check t o be sure t h e extension tube has a NEW seal installed. Install a NEW O-ring onto t h e end of t h e driveshaf t.

GOOD WORDS Clean both lower unit water tubes with

sandpaper. These tubes should be clean and shiny as an aid t o mating t h e lower unit t o t h e exhaust housing. If these tubes a r e not thoroughly clean, g rea t difficulty may be encountered in mating t h e lower unit with t h e exhaust housing. After t h e water tubes have been cleaned, apply a light coating of oil or lubricant t o t h e outside surface of t h e tubes. Apply a light coating of oil t o t h e e lec t r i c shi f t cable.


42- Position t h e assembled lower unit under the exhaust housing. Connect t h e jumper wire f rom t h e exhaust housing, l e f t when the lower unit was removed, t o t h e BLUE and GREEN wires from t h e lower unit. Tape t h e connections smoothly t o allow t h e wires t o pass through t h e exhaust housing. As t h e lower unit is moved toward t h e exhaust housing, pull on t h e jumper wires t o pull t h e lower unit wires through. Slowly l i f t t h e lower unit into place with t h e driveshaf t indexing with the crankshaft splines and t h e water tubes entering t h e exhaust housing grommets. I t may be necessary t o have an assistant r o t a t e t h e flywheel ever so slowly CLOCKWISE and t o pull t h e e lec t r i c shi f t cable through while t h e lower unit is being mated with t h e exhaust housing. Rotating t h e flywheel will permit the driveshaft t o index with t h e splines of t h e crankshaft. Coa t t h e th reads of t h e a t taching screws with sealer. After t h e mating surfaces of t h e exhaust housing and t h e lower unit have made contact , s t a r t t h e screws securing t h e two units together. Tighten the screws ALTERNATELY and EVENLY.

43- Remove the jumper wire t h a t was a t t ached t o shift lead in order t o feed t h e lead through t h e exhaust housing. Connect t h e shi f t wires t o t h e harness at t h e back of t h e engine, BLUE-to-BLUE and GREEN-to-

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GREEN. Slide t h e rubber protect ive sleeves in place over t h e connectors.

Propeller Installation See Section 8-2 for detailed instructions


Filling Lower Unit See Section 8-3 fo r detailed procedures on

filling t h e lower unit.


completed work by mounting t h e engine in a test tank, in a body of water, or with a flush a t t achment connected t o t h e lower unit. If t h e flush a t t achment is used, NEVER oper-

ate t h e engine above an idle speed, because t h e no-load condition on t h e propeller would allow t h e engine t o RUNAWAY resulting in serious damage o r destruction of t h e engine.


S t a r t the engine and observe the ta t t le- t a l e flow of water f rom idle relief in t h e exhaust housing. The water pump installation work is verified. If a flush a t t a c h m e n t i s connected t o the lower unit, VERY LIT- TLE water will b e visible f rom t h e idle relief port. Shift the engine into t h e th ree gears and check f o r smoothness of operation and sa t is factory performance.

8-9 TYPE V LOWER UNIT ELECTRIC SHIFT TWO SOLENOIDS 55 HP - 1968 AND 1%9 60 HP - 1970 AND 1971 85 HP - 1969 THRU 1972 100 HP - 1971 AND 1972 115 HP - 1969 AND 1970 125 HP - 1971 AND 1972

DESCRIPTION

The lower unit covered in th is section is a t h r e e shift position, hydraulic act ivated, solenoid controlled, propeller exhaust unit. A hydraulic pump mounted in t h e forward portion of t h e lower unit provides t h e fo rce required t o shi f t t h e unit. Two solenoids installed in t h e lower unit, above t h e pump, control and opera te t h e pump valve. The pump valve di rects t h e hydraulic f o r c e t o place t h e clutch dog in t h e desired position fo r neutral, forward, o r reverse gear position. One solenoid controls t h e valve f o r t h e neutral position. Both solenoids control t h e valve fo r t h e reverse position. When neither solenoid is activated, t h e unit is at rest in t h e forward gear position.

In simple terms, something must be done (a solenoid act ivated and hydraulic pressure applied) t o move t h e unit into neutral or reverse gear position. If no action is taken (shift mechanism at rest) t h e unit is in the forward gear position.

A full 12-volts is required t o ac t iva te t h e solenoids. This means shifting is not

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TYPE V ELECTRIC SHIFT 8-83

possible if the ba t t e ry should become low for any number of reasons. A potential ly dangerous condition could exist because t h e unit could not be taken ou t of forward gear. Therefore, t h e only way t o s top forward boat movement would be t o shut t h e engine down. A low ba t t e ry would also mean the e lect r ic s t a r t e r motor would fail t o crank t h e engine properly fo r engine s tar t . Such a condition would require hand s tar t ing in a n emergency, if a second ba t t e ry were not available.

The lower unit houses the driveshaft and pinion gear, t h e forward and reverse driven gears, the propeller shaft , clutch dog, hydraulic pump, two solenoids, and t h e necessa r y shims, bearings, and associated par t s t o make i t all work properly, Illustration "An.

All V 4 engines covered in th is sect ion a r e equipped with a blocking diode t h a t functions as follows: when t h e engine is operating, and t h e key is turned t o t h e OFF position, current would b e cutoff t o t h e lower unit. This sudden cutoff would cause t h e lower unit t o jump in to FORWARD gear. A blocking diode and vacuum switch allow current t o continue flowing t o t h e lower unit while t h e powerhead is winding down and finally comes t o complete rest. The

vacuum switch provides a second e lect r ica l path t o t h e shi f t control switch when t h e key switch is turned t o t h e OFF position and t h e engine has not come t o complete rest. This second circuit supplies current t o t h e shift control until t h e engine stops rota t ing and vacuum in t h e switch is lost.

Once t h e al ternating current t o t h e low- e r unit ceases, t h e unit moves into FOR- WARD gear. Therefore, if t h e boat seems t o lurch forward when the key is turned t o t h e OFF position, t h e indication is mos t likely t h a t t h e blocking diode, or t h e vacuum switch is NOT functioning properly.

ONE MORE WORD A useful piece of information t o remem-

ber is t h a t t h e green wire carr ies cur ren t fo r the neutral position; and t h e green and blue wires carry current f o r t h e reverse gear operation.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Preliminary Checks Whenever the lower unit fa i ls t o shi f t

properly, t h e f i rs t place t o check is t h e condition of the battery. Determine if t h e ba t t e ry contains a full charge. Check t h e condition of t h e ba t t e ry terminals, t h e bat- t e r y leads t o t h e engine, and t h e e lect r ica l connections.

The second a r e a t o check is t h e quanti ty and quality of t h e lubricant in t h e lower unit. If the lubricant level is low, contaminated with water, or i s broken down because of overuse, t h e shift mechanism may be affected. Water in t h e lower unit is VERY BAD NEWS fo r a number of reasons, particularly when t h e lower unit contains e lect r i- ca l or hydraulic components. Electrical pa r t s shor t out and hydraulic units will not function with water in t h e system.

BEFORE making any tests, remove t h e propeller, see Section 8-2. Check t h e propeller carefully t o determine if t h e hub has been slipping and giving a fa lse indication t h e unit is not in gear. If t h e r e is any doubt, t h e propeller should be taken t o a shop properly equipped f o r test ing, before t h e t i m e and expense of disassembling t h e lower unit is undertaken. The expense of t h e propeller test ing and possible rebuild is justified.

The following troubleshooting procedures a r e presented on t h e assumption t h e battery , including i t s connections, t h e lower

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unit lubricant, and t h e propeller have a l l been checked and found t o be satisfactory.

Lower Unit Locked Determine if the problem is in t h e pow-

erhead or in t h e lower unit. At tempt t o r o t a t e t h e flywheel. If the flywheel can b e moved even slightly in e i ther direction, t h e problem is most likely in t h e lower unit. If it is not possible t o ro ta te t h e flywheel, t h e problem is a lffrozenll powerhead. To absolutely verify t h e powerhead is "frozen", sep- a r a t e t h e lower unit from the exhaust housing and then again a t t e m p t t o ro ta te t h e flywheel. If the a t t e m p t is successful, t h e problem is definitely in t h e lower unit. If t h e a t t e m p t t o ro ta te t h e flywheel, with t h e lower unit removed, still fails, a "f rozenfl powerhead is verified, see Chapter 3.

Unit Fails to Shift Neutral, Forward, or Reverse

Disconnect t h e green and blue e lect r ica l wires f rom the lower unit at the engine.

Voltmeter Tests Separate t h e green and blue wires at t h e

engine by f i rs t sliding t h e sleeve back, and then making t h e disconnect. Connect one lead of t h e voltmeter t o t h e green wire t o t h e dash, and the other lead t o a good ground on t h e engine. Turn t h e ignition key t o the ON position. With t h e shift box handle in t h e forward position, t h e volt- mete r should indicate NO voltage.

Move t h e t e s t lead f rom t h e green wire t o the blue wire t o t h e dash. With t h e shi f t lever still in t h e forward position, t h e volt- mete r should indicate NO voltage.

Move t h e shi f t lever to t h e NEUTRAL position. With the voltmeter st i l l connected t o t h e blue wire, NO voltage should b e indicated. Move the t e s t lead t o t h e green wire. Voltage SHOULD be indicated.

Move t h e shift lever t o t h e REVERSE position. Voltage SHOULD be 'indicated on t h e green wire AND on t h e blue wire, Illus- t ra t ion "An.

If t h e desired results a r e not obtained on any of these tes ts , t h e problem is in t h e sh i f t box switch or t h e wiring under t h e dashboard. See Chapter 7.

Ohmmeter Tests Set t h e ohmmeter t o the low scale.

Connect one lead t o t h e green wire t o t h e lower unit, and the other lead t o a good ground. The m e t e r should indicate 5 t o 7 ohms. Connect the mete r t o t h e blue wire t o t h e lower unit and ground. The m e t e r should again indicate from 5 t o 7 ohms, Illustration "Bn.

BAD NEWS If t h e unit fa i ls the ohmmeter t e s t s just

outlined, t h e only course of ac t ion is t o disassemble t h e lower unit t o determine and cor rec t t h e problem.

Vacuum Switch Check Separate the . vacuum switch lead con-

nector. Connect an ohmmeter or test l ight t o each vacuum switch lead. Crank t h e engine and observe t h e meter . The m e t e r o r test light should indicate continuity.

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If the switch fa i ls t o close, remove and inspect t h e diaphragm f o r a pin hole o r o ther damage, Illustration "C". If t h e diaphragm is in sa t is factory condition, remove t h e vacuum switch and check t h e orif ice t o t h e crankcase t o be sure i t is not plugged.

LOWER UNIT SERVICE

Propeller Removal If t h e propeller was not removed, a s

directed for t h e troubleshooting, remove i t now, according t o the detailed procedures outlirted in Section 8-2.

Draining Lower Unit Drain the lower unit according t o t h e


GOOD WORDS If water is discovered in t h e lower unit

and the propeller shaf t seals a r e found t o b e damaged and require replacement, t h e lower unit does NOT have t o be removed in order t o accomplish the work.

The bearing carrier can be removed and t h e seal replaced without disassembling t h e lower unit. HOWEVER such a procedure is not considered good shop practice, but merely a quick-fix. If water has entered t h e lower unit, t h e unit should be disassembled and a detailed check made t o determine if any other seals, bearings, bearing races, 0- rings or o ther par ts have been rendered unfit for fur ther service by the water.


REMOVAL

Preparation Work Disconnect t h e cables from t h e battery.

Remove t h e hood.

Lower Unit 1- Slide back t h e insulators on t h e shi f t

wires at t h e engine. Disconnect t h e blue wire from the blue and t h e green wire f rom t h e green, at t h e engine.

2- Obtain a piece of e lect r ica l wire, about 5 f t . (1.52 m) long. Temporarily twis t t h e green and blue wires together. Connect one end of t h e jumper wire t o t h e blue and green wires, and then t a p e t h e connection. Now, when t h e lower unit i s separated f rom t h e exhaust housing, t h e ends of t h e wire will f eed down through the exhaust housing. When t h e lower unit is f ree , disconnect t h e wire ends from the blue and green wires and leave t h e wire in t h e exhaust housing. When

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i t IS t i m e t o bring the lower unit together with t h e exhaust housing, t h e wire ends will b e connected again and t h e blue and green wires easily pulled back up through t h e exhaust housing. No sweat! Alright, on with t h e work.

3- Scribe a mark on t h e tr im t a b and a matching mark on t h e lower unit t o ensure t h e tr im t a b will b e installed in t h e s a m e position f rom which i t was removed. Re- move the a t taching hardware, and then remove t h e tr im tab.

4- Use a 1/211 socket with a short extension and remove t h e bolt f rom inside t h e t r im t a b cavity. Remove the 518" counter- sunk bolt located just ahead of t h e t r im t a b position.

5- Remove the four 9/16" bolts, t w o on each side, securing t h e lower unit t o t h e exhaust housing. Work t h e lower unit f r e e of t h e exhaust housing. If t h e unit is still mounted on a boat, t i l t the engine forward

t o gain clearance between t h e lower unit and t h e deck (floor, ground, whatever). EX- ERCISE CARE t o withdraw t h e lower unit s t ra ight away f rom the exhaust housing t o prevent bending t h e driveshaft. Once t h e lower unit is f r e e of t h e exhaust housing, s top and disconnect t h e wires installed as described in S t e p 1. Leave t h e wire in t h e exhaust housing as an aid during installation.

WATER PUMP REMOVAL

6- Position t h e lower unit in t h e vert ical position on t h e edge of t h e work bench resting on t h e cavitat ion plate. Secure t h e lower unit in th is position with a C-clamp. The lower unit will then be held firmly in a favorable position during t h e service work. An a l t e rna te method is t o c u t a groove in a shor t piece of 2" x 6" wood t o accommodate t h e lower unit with t h e cavitat ion pla te resting on top of t h e wood. Clamp t h e wood in a vise and service work may then be

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performed with t h e lower unit e r e c t (in i t s normal position), or inverted (upside down). In both positions, t h e cavitat ion pla te is t h e supporting surface.

TAKE TIME Take t i m e t o notice how t h e shi f t wires

a r e routed and anchored in position with a c lamp on top of t h e water pump. I t is ext remely important f o r t h e shift wires t o be routed and secured in t h e s a m e position during installation, Illustration "Cn.

7- Remove t h e O-ring from t h e top of t h e driveshaft. Remove t h e bolts securing t h e water pump t o the lower unit housing and t h e clamp securing t h e shi f t wires in place. Leave t h e c lamp on t h e shi f t cable as an aid during installation. Pull t h e w a t e r pump housing up and f r e e of t h e driveshaf t.

8- Slide t h e water pump impeller up and f r e e of the driveshaft. Pop t h e impeller Woodruff key out of t h e driveshaf t keyway. Slide t h e water pump base pla te up and off of the driveshaf t.

GOOD WORDS If t h e only work t o be performed is

service of t h e water pump, proceed directly t o Page 8-105, Water Pump Installation.

LOWER UNIT DISASSEMBLING

Shift Solenoid - Removal 9- Remove t h e shi f t solenoid cover lo-

ca ted just a f t of t h e water pump position. Take c a r e not t o lose the wavy washer installed under t h e cover. Grasp t h e upper (green) shi f t solenoid and withdraw the solenoids and shif t rod f rom t h e lower unit cavi ty a s an assembly.

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GoOD WORDS On a 55 hp, o r a 60 hp unit, t h e plunger

extends directly down in to t h e hydraulic pump. On all o ther units covered in this section, t h e rod si ts on top of two levers, and a small plunger inside t h e rod extends downward between t h e levers in to t h e pump.

Bearing Carr ier - Removal 10- Remove t h e four 5/16" bolts, or Al-

len head screws, f rom inside the bearing carrier. Notice how each bolt has an O-ring seal. These O-rings should be replaced each t i m e t h e bolts a r e removed. Also observe t h e word UP embossed into t h e metal rim of some bearing carriers. This word must f a c e UP in relation t o the lower unit during installation. Clean t h e surface and if t h e word "UP" does not show, scribe a mark t o indicate t h e UP position of t h e carr ier , a s a n aid during installation.

11- Remove t h e bearing carr ier using one of t h e methods described in t h e following paragraphs, under Special Words.

SPECIAL WORDS Several models of bearing carr iers a r e

used on t h e lower units covered in th i s section.

The bearing carr iers a r e a very t ight f i t in to t h e lower unit opening. Therefore, i t is not uncommon t o apply hea t t o t h e outside surface of t h e lower unit with a torch, at t h e same t i m e the puller is being worked t o remove t h e carrier. TAKE CARE not t o overheat t h e lower unit.

One model carr ier has two threaded holes on t h e end of t h e carrier. These threads ~ e r m i t the installation of two long

bolts. These bolts will then allow t h e use of a flywheel puller t o remove t h e bearing carrier , Illustration 1 1.

Another model does not have t h e thread- e d screw holes. To remove th is type bearing carr ier , a special puller with a r m s must be used. The a rms a r e hooked onto t h e carr ier web area , and then the carr ier removed, Illustration "D".


cedure and should b e executed with c a r e while wearing SAFETY GLASSES. The retaining rings a r e under tremendous tension in the groove and while they a r e being removed. If a ring should slip off t h e Truarc pliers, i t will t ravel with incredible speed causing personal injury if i t should s t r ike a person. Therefore, continue t o hold the ring and pliers f irm a f t e r t h e ring is ou t of t h e groove and d e a r of the lower unit. Place t h e ring on t h e floor and hold i t securely with one foot before releasing t h e grip on t h e pliers. An a l t e rna te method is t o hold t h e ring inside a t rash barrel, or o ther suitable container, before releasing t h e pliers.

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12- Obta in a pa i r of T r u a r c pliers. In- s e r t t h e t i p s of t h e pl iers i n t o t h e holes of t h e f i r s t re ta in ing ring. Now, CAREFULLY r emove t h e re ta in ing r ing f r o m t h e g roove a n d g e a r case wi thout allowing t h e pl iers t o slip. R e l e a s e t h e gr ip on t h e pl iers in t h e manner described in t h e above WARNING. R e m o v e t h e second re ta in ing r ing in t h e s a m e manner. The rings a r e identical a n d e i t h e r o n e m a y b e instal led f i r s t .

13- R e m o v e t h e r e t a ine r plate . As t h e p l a t e is removed, no t i ce which s u r f a c e i s f a c i n g in to t h e housing, as a n a id during instal lat ion.

Propel le r Shaft - Remova l 14- Grasp t h e propeller s h a f t f i rmly and

wi thdraw i t f r o m t h e lower unit. The re- t a ine r p la te , t h r u s t washer, t h r u s t bearing, r eve r se gear , r eve r se gea r smal l t h rus t washer, and t h e c lu tch dog, will c o m e o u t w i th t h e shaf t .

"FROZEN" PROPELLER SHAFT

On r a r e occasions, especial ly if w a t e r h a s been al lowed t o e n t e r t h e lower unit, i t may n o t b e possible t o wi thdraw t h e propel- l e r s h a f t as described in S t e p 14. The s h a f t may b e "frozen" in t h e hydraulic pump d u e t o corrosion.

If e f f o r t s t o r emove t h e propeller s h a f t a f t e r t h e bear ing c a r r i e r h a s been r emoved

fa i l , o n e of t w o me thods may b e used depending if t h e propeller s h a f t does o r d o e s n o t have in t e rna l t h reads on t h e end. Both me thods r equ i r e t h e use of a sl ide hammer .

BAD NEWS Using t h e s l ide h a m m e r , under t hese

condit ions, t o r e m o v e t h e propeller s h a f t , will usually r e su l t in s o m e in t e rna l p a r t being damaged as t h e s h a f t i s withdrawn. However, t h e c o s t of rep lac ing t h e damaged p a r t i s reasonable considering t h e serious- ness of a "frozen" s h a f t and g e t t i n g i t ou t .

Ob ta in a couple of l a rge washers . If t h e s h a f t has i n t e rna l threads , use t h e proper s i z e bol t and t h r e a d i t i n to t h e e n d of t h e s h a f t wi th t h e t w o washers behind t h e bol t head. If t h e s h a f t has only e x t e r n a l t h r e a d s use a couple of washe r s ove r t h e s h a f t , and then t h r e a d t h e n u t o n t o t h e shaf t .

With t h e washers and e i t h e r t h e n u t o r bo l t in p lace , a t t a c h t h e jaws of t h e s l ide h a m m e r over t h e washers. O p e r a t e t h e s l ide h a m m e r t o withdraw t h e propeller shaf t .

Pinion G e a r - R e m o v a l Specia l tool , OMC No. 312752 i s requi red

t o turn t h e d r ivesha f t in o rde r t o r e m o v e t h e pinion g e a r nut .

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8-90 LOWER UNIT

15- Obtain t h e special tool and slip i t over t h e end of t h e driveshaft with t h e splines of the tool indexed with t h e splines on t h e driveshaf t. Hold t h e pinion gear n u t with t h e proper size wrench, and at the s a m e t ime ro ta te t h e driveshaft, with t h e special tool and wrench COUNTERCLOCK- WISE until t h e nut is f ree . If t h e special tool is not available, c lamp t h e driveshaft in a vise equipped with so f t jaws, in a n a r e a below the splines but not in the water pump impeller area. Now, with t h e proper s ize wrench on t h e pinion gear nut, r o t a t e t h e complete lower unit COUNTERCLOCK WISE until the nut is free. This procedure will probably require t h e driveshaft t o be loosen- e d in the vise several t imes and reclamped in order t o a f fec t rotation of t h e lower unit and wrench. After t h e nut is f ree , proceed with t h e next step. The driveshaft will b e withdrawn from the pinion gear.

Driveshaf t - Removal 16- Remove the four bolts f rom t h e t o p

of t h e lower unit securing t h e bearing housing. CAREFULLY pry t h e bearing housing upward away f rom t h e lower unit, then slide i t f r e e of the driveshaft. An a l t e rna te method is to again c lamp t h e driveshaft in a vise equipped with so f t jaws. Use a soft- headed mal le t and t a p on t h e top side of t h e bearing housing. This action will jar t h e housing loose from t h e lower unit. Continue tapping with t h e mallet and t h e bearing housing, O-rings, shims (V4 models only), thrus t washer, thrus t bearing, and t h e driveshaf t will all breakaway f rom t h e lower unit and may be removed a s an assembly.

17- Remove t h e pinion gear f rom t h e lower unit cavity. Remove t h e forward gear f rom t h e hydraulic pump.

Hydraulic Pump - Removal 1% Obtain two long rods with 114" x 20

threads on both ends. Thread t h e two rods in to the hydraulic pump housing. At tach a slide hammer t o t h e rods and secure i t with a nut on t h e end of each rod. Check t o b e sure the slide hammer is installed onto t h e rods EVENLY t o allow an even pull on t h e pump. If the slide hammer i s not installed t o t h e rods properly, t h e pump may become tightly wedged in t h e lower unit. Opera te t h e slide hammer and pull t h e hydraulic pump free . If t h e pump should happen t o become lodged in t h e lower unit, s top operat ing the slide hammer IMMEDIATELY. Tap t h e hydraulic pump back in to place in t h e lower unit and s t a r t t h e removal procedure over.

Lower Driveshaf t Bearing - Removal All Exoept 1972 Models

19- DO MOT a t t e m p t t o remove th is bearing unless i t is unfi t f o r fu r the r service.

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TYPE V ELECTRIC SHIFT 8-9 I

To check t h e bearing, f i r s t use a flashlight and inspect i t for corrosion or o ther damage. Insert a finger into the bearing, and then check fo r "rough" spots or binding while rotating it. Drive the bearing down and ou t using a suitable punch. The bearing is being removed because i t is unfit fo r service. Theref ore, fur ther damage is of no consequence.

For 1972 models ONLY: Remove t h e ALLEN screw from t h e water pickup slots in t h e starboard side of t h e lower unit housing, Illustration "F". This screw secures t h e bearing in place and MUST be removed before an a t t e m p t is made t o remove t h e bearing. The bearing must actually b e "PULLEDw upward t o come free. NEVER make an a t t e m p t t o "drive" i t down and o u t or the lip in t h e lower unit holding t h e bearing will be broken off. VERY BAD NEWS. The lower unit housing would have t o be replaced. Obtain special tool, OMC No. 385546. Use t h e special tool and "pullr1 t h e bearing from t h e lower unit, illustration "G".

Propeller Shaft - Disassembling 20- Notice t h e spring re ta iner on t h e

outside surface of t h e clutch dog. Use a small screwdriver and work one end of t h e spring up onto t h e shoulder of the clutch dog. Continue working t h e spring out of t h e groove until i t is free. TAKE CARE not t o dis tor t t h e spring. Place one end of t h e propeller shaf t on the bench and wush t h e

ALLEN

pin f r e e of t h e clutch dog. Raise t h e propeller end of t h e shaf t upward and t h e piston, retainer, and spring, will come f r e e of t h e shaft .

21- Notice how the small end of the retainer f i t s in to t h e spring. Also notice t h e hole in the retainer. During installation, th is hole must align with t h e hole in t h e propeller shaf t and clutch dog t o allow t h e pin t o pass through. Slide t h e clutch dog f r e e of the propeller shaft .

Hydraulic Pump - Disassembling

GOOD WORDS On all 1970 thru 1972, V4 engines, a band

and valve housing seal is installed at t h e back of the hydraulic pump. If servicing one

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8-92 LOWER UNIT

of these engines, f i rs t remove t h e rubber band, and then remove t h e metal band f rom t h e back side of t h e hydraulic pump.

22- Remove the screw from t h e center of t h e screen on t h e back side of t h e pump. Remove t h e screen.

23- Remove the screws securing t h e valve housing t o t h e pump, and then l i f t t h e housing f r e e of the pump.

24- Lif t t h e two gears ou t of t h e pump housing and HOLD them just as they were removed. Check t h e f a c e of each gear f o r an indent mark (a dot, dimple, o r similar identification). The identification mark will indicate how t h e gear MUST f a c e in t h e

. . ..

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housing. Make a note of how t h e mark faces , outward or inward, t o ENSURE t h e gears will be installed properly in t h e s a m e position from which they were removed.

Bearing Carrier - Disassembling The bearings in t h e carr ier need NOT b e

removed unless they a r e unfit f o r fu r the r service. Insert a finger and ro ta te t h e bearing. Check f o r "rough" spots or binding. Inspect t h e bearing for signs of corrosion or o ther types of damage. If t h e bearings must be replaced, proceed with the next step.

25- Use a seal remover t o remove t h e two back-to-back seals or c lamp t h e carr ier in a vise and use a pry bar t o pop each seal out.

26- Use a dr i f t punch t o drive t h e bearings f r e e of t h e carrier. The bearings a r e being removed because they a r e unfit fo r service, therefore , additional damage is of no consequence.

Solenoid and Shift Assembly I t i s not recommended t o a t t e m p t ser-

vice of th is assembly. If troubleshooting has been performed and t h e determination made t h e unit, or any par t is faulty, t h e ONLY sat is factory solution is t o purchase and install a new assembly.

Damaged hydraulic pump. Water in the lower unit and a broken forward gear was the cause of this pump being destroyed.

A two-section driveshaft with a weld section that has failed. This area of the driveshaft should be carefully checked anytime the lower unit is disassembled for maintenance work.


Wash all, excep t ELECTRICAL, par t s in solvent and dry them with compressed air. Discard all O-rings and seals t h a t have been removed. A new seal kit fo r this lower unit is available f rom t h e local dealer. The k i t will contain t h e necessary seals and O-rings t o res tore t h e lower unit t o service.

Inspect all splines on shaf ts and in gears fo r wear, rounded edges, corrosion, and damage.

Carefully check t h e driveshaf t and t h e propeller shaf t t o verify they a r e s t ra ight and t r u e without any sign of damage. A complete check must be performed by turning t h e shaf t in a lathe. This is only necessary if the re is evidence t o suspect the s h a f t is not true.

Check t h e water pump housing for corrosion on t h e inside and verify t h e impeller and base plate a r e in good condition. Ac-

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8-94 LOWER UNIT

DRIVE ["'-. , .

RETAINER

"0" RING GROMMET

WATER

-0" RING SCREEN ' ? \

GEAR SEAL , , , . CASE \

' I N q THRUST

384752 CHROME PUMP

REPAIR KIT

384958 WATER PUMP REPAIR KIT

BEARING

Exploded drawing of a Type V lower unit with principle ports identified.

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tually, good shop pract ice d ic ta tes t o rebuild or replace t h e water pump each t i m e t h e lower unit is disassembled. The small cos t is rewarded with "peace of mind" and sa t is factory service.

Inspect the lower unit housing fo r nicks, dents, corrosion, or o ther signs of damage. Nicks may be removed with No. 120 and No. 180 emory cloth. Make a special e f f o r t t o ensure all old gasket material has been removed and mating surfaces a r e clean and smooth.

Inspect the water passages in t h e lower unit t o be sure they a r e clean. The sc reen may be removed and cleaned.

Check t h e gears and clutch dog t o be sure the ea r s a r e not rounded. If doubt exists as t o t h e part performing satisfactorily, i t should be replaced.

Inspect t h e bearings f o r "roughn spots, binding, and signs of corrosion or damage.

Test t h e neutral and reverse solenoids with an ohmmeter. A reading of 5 t o 7 ohms is normal and indicates t h e solenoid is in sa t is factory condition.

Using an ohmmeter t o test the solenoids, as explained in the text .

Damaged reverse ( l e f t ) and forward gear (right). This damage was caused by water in the lower unit over a period of time. Immediate disassembling might have saved the parts.

ASSEMBLING

READ AND BELIEVE The lower unit should NOT b e assembled

in a dry condition. Coa t all internal pa r t s with Premium lube oil as they a r e assembled. All seals should be coa ted with OMC Gasket Seal Compound. When two seals a r e installed back-to-back, use Triple Guard Grease between t h e seal surfaces.

SPECIAL WORDS The a c c o m ~ a n v i n n illustrations show a

rubber seal on t'he kndvof t h e hydraulic pump and a snap ring installed i n - f ron t of the pump. The V4 engines, 1970 th ru 1972 were t h e only units with these two i t ems installed.

Propeller Shaft - Assembling 1- Slide t h e clutch dog onto t h e propel-

l e r shaf t with t h e f a c e of the dog marked "PROP ENDn facing toward t h e propeller end of the shaf t , reference illustration "A1'. Before t h e splines of t h e clutch dog engage t h e splines of the propeller shaf t , r o t a t e t h e dog until t h e hole fo r t h e pin appears t o

CLUTCH DOG

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8-96 LOWER UNIT

. 4 , , . ~ PROP SIDE SPR l NG

END" EMBOSSED

\

align with t h e hole through t h e propeller shaft . Slide t h e clutch dog onto t h e splines until t h e hole in t h e dog aligns with t h e hole in t h e shaft . If t h e hole is off just a bit , slide the clutch dog back off t h e splines, ro ta te i t one spline in t h e required direction, and then slide i t in to place.

Insert t h e spring in to t h e end of t h e propeller shaft. Secure t h e spring in place with t h e spring retainer. Install t h e re ta iner with t h e small end going in to t h e propeller shaf t FIRST.

2- Depress t h e spring retainer and insert t h e pin through t h e clutch dog, t h e shaf t , spring retainer, and ou t t h e other side of t h e shaf t and clutch dog. Cen te r t h e pin through t h e clutch dog.

3- Install the spring-type pin retainer around t h e clutch dog t o secure t h e pin in place. TAKE CARE not t o distort t h e re- ta iner spring during t h e installation process.

Bearing Carrier Bearings & Seals Installation

4- Install the reverse gear bearing in to t h e bearing carr ier by pressing against t h e LETTERED side of the bearing with t h e proper size socket. Press t h e forward gear bearing in to the bearing carr ier in t h e s a m e manner. Press against t h e LETTERED side of t h e bearing.

5- C o a t t h e outside surfaces of t h e seals wi th sealing compound. Install t h e f i r s t seal with t h e f l a t side facing OUT. C o a t t h e f l a t su r face of both seals with Triple Guard Grease, and then install t h e second seal with t h e f l a t side going in FIRST. The seals a r e then back-to-back with t h e grease between t h e two surfaces. The outside seal prevents water f rom entering t h e lower unit and t h e inside seal prevents t h e lubricant in t h e low- e r unit f rom escaoine.

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A set of double seals showing the back side Oef t ) and the front side (right). These seals are installed back-to-back (flat side-to-flat side) with Tr i~le Guard Grease between the surfaces. This arrangement prevents fluid from passing in either direction --lubricant out, or water into, the lower unit.

Hydraulic Pump - Assembling 6- Check t h e note made during disas-

sembling, per S t e p 24, t o determine how t h e identifying marks (dots, dimples, whatever) on the gears must f a c e -- inward or outward. The gears MUST be installed in t h e s a m e position from which they were removed.

7- Install t h e rear valve housing with t h e tang on t h e outside edge of t h e housing indexed with the small slot in t h e pump housing. Secure t h e valve housing in place with the a t taching screws tightened securely.

8- Place the screen in position on t h e back side of t h e valve housing, and t h e n secure i t in place with t h e screw.

SPECIAL WORDS If the unit being serviced is a V4, 1970 -

th ru 1972, install t h e rubber seal around t h e back side of the hydraulic pump with t h e cutaways in t h e band on t h e top side of t h e

THRUST .6a

BEARING\ ,,-- i. \ . Q m

i,

Two types of hydraulic pumps. The pump on the left is the most common with the shift rod passing through a hole in two levers on top of the pump. The pump on the right has the shift rod passing directly through a hole in the pump top.

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8-98 LOWER UNIT

pump. Slip t h e aluminum band over the rubber seal with t h e ea r s on each side of t h e band in a horizontal position.

9- Install t h e forward gear in to t h e pump housing. I t may be necessary t o work t h e gears around in t h e pump t o permit t h e tangs on t h e forward gear shank t o index in t h e slots in t h e housing. S e t t h e assembly aside for l a te r installation.

Lower Driveshaf t Bearing - Installation 10- If servicing a 55 hp, o r 60 hp unit

obtain special tool kit OMC No. 383173. For all V4 units thru 1971, obtain special tool OMC No. 384096. For V4 units, 1972, obtain tool No. 38547. The bearing is "pulled" into place f rom t h e bottom side of t h e housing. Insert the tool into the bearing f rom t h e l e t t e red side. Slide t h e long bolt down through t h e lower unit and thread i t in to t h e bearing par t of t h e tool. Place a pla te over the bolt, thread a nut onto t h e end of t h e bolt, and then t ake up on t h e nu t until the bearing is in place.

11- On t h e 1972 V4 model, an Allen screw is used t o secure t h e bearing in place, apply Loct i te t o t h e threads, amd then in- s ta l l the screw through t h e lower unit, as shown.

Hyraulic Pump - Installation First, These Words

Observe the tang on t h e backside of the pump. This tang MUST f a c e directly up in

w relat lon t o t h e lower unit housing t o permit installation of t h e shift rod in to t h e pump. Also notice t h e pin on t h e backside of the pump. This pin MUST index in to a matching hole in the housing t o restrain t h e pump from rotating.

12- Secure the lower unit housing in t h e horizontal position with t h e bearing carr ier opening facing up. Remove t h e forward gear f rom t h e pump. Obtain two long 1/4 x 20 rods with threads on both ends. Thread t h e rods in to t h e pump and then lower t h e pump into t h e lower unit housing. To index t h e pin on t h e back of t h e pump housing in to t h e hole in t h e lower unit is not an easy task. However, exercise patience and rotate t h e pump ever s o slowly. A helpful hint at th is point: As t h e pump is being lowered in to t h e cavity, align t h e opening and t ang on top of t h e pump in t h e approximate position your e y e indicates t h e shi f t rod may be installed. When t h e pin indexes, i t will

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not b e possible t o ro ta te the pump. The pump MUST be properly seated t o permit installation of the shi f t rod and t h e pinion gear. Af te r t h e pump is in place, remove t h e two rods used during installation.

13- Coat t h e plunger with oil, and then lower t h e large end of t h e plunger into t h e hydraulic pump. Check t o be sure i t s e a t s al l the way into place.

W A R N I N G This next s t e p can be dangerous. Each

snap ring is placed under tremendous tension with the Truarc pliers while i t is being placed in to t h e groove. Therefore, wear SAFETY GLASSES and exercise c a r e t o prevent t h e snap ring f rom slipping ou t of t h e pliers. If the snap ring should slip out, i t would travel with incredible speed and cause personal injury if i t s t ruck a person.

14- Install t h e Truarc snap ring in f r o n t of the pump, if the ring is used. Many models do not use th i s snap ring. If a new pump is installed, t h e instructions with t h e pump will indicate th is snap ring is NOT t o b e used.

Install the thrust washer and thrust bearing in to t h e pump with t h e f l a t side of t h e bearing facing OUTWARD. Lower t h e forward gear in to t h e pump. Work t h e gear slowly until t h e t e e t h index with t h e t e e t h of the pump gear. This should not be t o o difficult because the forward gear was installed once, and then removed in t h e previous step. However, i t is entirely possible t h e gears moved when t h e pump was installed. Therefore, use a flashlight and check t h e position of t h e gears. If necessary, use a long shank screwdriver and ro ta te t h e gears until t h e y a r e close t o center , t h e n install the forward gear.

Driveshaft and Pinion Gear - Installation

CRITICAL WORDS The driveshaft and pinion gear must be

assembled prior t o installation, and then checked with a special shimming gauge. This shimming must be accomplished properly, t h e unit disassembled, and then installed in to t h e lower unit. Use of t h e shimming gauge is the ONLY way t o determine t h e proper amount of shimming required at t h e upper end of t h e driveshaft. The following detailed s t e p outlines t h e procedure.

SPECIAL WORDS The following step, No. 15, is t o be per-

formed only if servicing a V4 unit. 15- Clamp t h e driveshaft in a vise e-

quipped with sof t jaws and in such a manner

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8-100 LOWER UNIT

t h a t the splines, water pump area , or o ther cr i t ica l portions of t h e shaf t cannot b e damaged. Slide the pinion gear onto t h e driveshaft with t h e bevel of t h e gear t e e t h facing toward the lower end of t h e shaft. Install t h e pinion gear nut and t ighten i t t o a torque value of 40 t o 45 f t-lbs. No par ts should be installed on t h e upper end of t h e driveshaft at this point. Slide the s a m e amount of shim mater ia l removed during disassembling, onto t h e dr iveshaf t and seat i t against t h e driveshaf t shoulder. Remove t h e driveshaf t from the vise.

Obtain special shimming tool, OMC No. 315767. Slip t h e special tool down over t h e driveshaft and onto t h e upper surface of t h e top shim. Measure t h e distance between t h e t o p of the pinion gear and t h e bottom of t h e tool. The tool should just barely m a k e con tac t with t h e pinion gear surface fo r ZERO clearance. Add or remove shims f rom t h e upper end of t h e driveshaft t o obtain t h e required ZERO clearance. Remove t h e tool and set t h e shims aside for installation later. Back off t h e pinion gear nut and remove t h e pinion gear. Remove t h e driveshaf t f rom t h e vise.

16- Insert t h e pinion gear into t h e cavi ty in t h e lower unit with t h e f l a t side of t h e bearing facing UPWARD. Hold t h e pinion gear in place and at t h e s a m e t i m e lower t h e driveshaft down into t h e lower unit. As t h e driveshaft begins t o make con tac t with t h e pinion gear, r o t a t e t h e shaf t slightly t o permit t h e splines on t h e shaf t t o index with t h e splines of t h e pinion gear. After t h e shaf t has indexed with t h e pinion gear, thread t h e pinion gear nut onto t h e end of t h e shaft . Obtain special tool, OMC No. 312752. Slide the special tool over t h e upper end of t h e driveshaft with t h e splines of t h e tool indexed with t h e splines on t h e

shaft. At tach a torque wrench t o t h e special tool. Now, hold t h e pinion gear nut with t h e proper s ize wrench and r o t a t e t h e driveshaf t CLOCKWISE with t h e special tool until t h e pinion gear nut is t ightened t o a torque value of 40 t o 45 ft-lbs. Remove t h e special tool.

SPECIAL WORDS The following s tep, No. 17, need only be

performed if servicing a V 4 unit. 17- Slide t h e thrust bearing, thrus t

washer, and t h e shims, set aside a f t e r t h e shim gauge procedure in S t e p 16, onto the dr iveshaf t .

1% Install the two seals back-to-back in to t h e opening on top of t h e bearing housing. C o a t the outside surface of the NEW seals with OMC Lubricant. Press t h e f i r s t seal into the housing with t h e f l a t side of t h e seal facing OUTWARD. Afte r t h e seal is in place, apply a coating of Triple Guard Grease t o t h e f l a t side of t h e install- e d seal and t h e f l a t side of t h e second seal. Press t h e second seal in to t h e bearing hous-

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TYPE V ELECTRIC SHFT 8- 10 1

ing with t h e f l a t side of the seal facing INWARD. Insert a NEW O-ring in to t h e bottom opening of t h e bearing housing.

19- Wrap frict ion t a p e around t h e splines of t h e driveshaft t o protect t h e seals in t h e bearing housing as t h e housing is installed. Now, slide t h e assembled bearing housing down t h e driveshaft and seat i t in t h e lower unit housing. Secure t h e housing in place with t h e four bolts. Tighten t h e bol ts ALTERNATELY and EVENLY.

Propeller Shaft - Installation 20- Secure t h e lower unit in t h e horizon-

ta l position with t h e bearing carr ier opening facing UPWARD. Check t h e inside diameter of t h e forward gear t o be sure t h e small thrus t washer in t h e gear is still in place. Lower t h e propeller shaf t assembly down into t h e lower unit with t h e inside diameter of t h e shaf t indexing over t h e shaf t of t h e piston.

21- Apply a l ight coating of grease to t h e inside surface of t h e reverse gear t o hold t h e thrust washer in place. Insert t h e thrus t washer in to t h e reverse gear. Lower t h e thrust bearing and thrust washer down onto t h e shank of t h e reverse gear. Slide t h e reverse gear down the propeller shaf t with t h e splines of t h e reverse gear indexing with t h e splines of the shaft .

22- Insert t h e retainer p la te in to t h e lower unit against t h e reverse gear.

W A R N I N G This next s t e p can be dangerous. Each

snap ring is placed under tremendous tension with t h e Truarc pliers while i t i s being

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8-102 LOWER UNIT

placed in to t h e groove. Therefore, wear SAFETY GLASSES and exercise c a r e t o prevent t h e snap ring from slipping out of t h e pliers. if t h e snap ring should slip out, i t would travel with incredible speed and cause personal injury if i t s truck a person.

23- Install t h e Truarc snap rings one at- a- t ime following t h e precautions given in t h e WARNING and t h e ADVICE given in t h e following paragraph.

WORDS OF ADVICE The two snap rings index into separate

grooves in t h e lower unit housing. As t h e f i rs t ring is being installed, depth perception may play a tr ick on your eyes. I t m a y appear t h a t the f i rs t ring is properly indexed all t h e way around in t h e proper groove, when in reality, a portion may be in one groove and t h e remainder in t h e o ther groove. Should this happen, and t h e Truarc pliers be released from t h e ring, i t is ex- t remely difficult t o ge t t h e pliers back in to t h e ring t o correct t h e condition. If necessa ry use a flashlight and carefully check t o be sure t h e f i rs t ring is properly sea ted all t h e way around BEFORE releasing t h e grip on t h e pliers. Installation of t h e second ring is not so difficult because the one groove is filled with t h e f i rs t ring.

24- Obtain two long 114" x 28 rods with threads on one end. Thread t h e rods in to t h e retainer p la te opposite each other t o act as guides fo r t h e bearing carrier.

25- Check t h e bearing carr ier t o be sure a NEW O-ring has been installed. Position

t h e carr ier over the guide pins with t h e embossed word UP on t h e rim of t h e carr ier facing UP in relation t o t h e lower unit housing. Now, lower t h e bearing carr ier down over the guide pins and into place in t h e lower unit housing.

26- Slide NEW l i t t l e O-rings onto each bolt, and apply some OMC Sealer onto t h e threads. Install t h e bolts through t h e carrier and in to t h e retaining plate. After a couple bolts a r e in place, remove t h e guide pins and install t h e remaining bolts. Tighten t h e bolts EVENLY and ALTERNATELY t o t h e torque value given in t h e Appendix.

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TYPE V ELECTRIC SHIFT 8- 103

Shift Cable, Solenoids, and Rod - Assembling

CRITICAL WORDS The following procedures MUST b e per-

formed exact ly as given and in t h e order presented. Do not a t t e m p t any shor tcuts or ant ic ipate what will be done next. All pa r t s must be installed and adjusted t o t h e l e t t e r , fo r t h e unit t o function properly. Separate t h e upper (green) solenoid f rom the lower (blue) solenoid, by pulling them apar t . An inner shi f t rod will b e released f rom t h e shift rod casing. Check t o be sure t h e c a p on the bottom of the shift rod casing is in place.

If servicing a 55 hp or a 60 hp unit, t h e plunger extends directly down in to t h e hydraulic pump. On all other units covered in th is section, t h e rod si ts on to^ of two

levers, and a small plunger inside t h e rod extends downward between t h e levers in to t h e pump.

27- Lower the blue solenoid down into t h e lower unit housing. Continue lowering t h e solenoid until the c a p on t h e end of t h e shift rod casing sea t s on top of t h e valve lever and check ball assembly. Check t o be sure t h e solenoid is fully sea ted in t h e housing. The lower plunger should b e flush with t h e top of t h e solenoid.

28- If the plmger is not flush with t h e solenoid, remove t h e solenoid and screw t h e lower plunger up or down on t h e shi f t rod casing, then install t h e solenoid again and check t h e plunger.

29- Install the spacer with t h e lip on t h e sDacer facine UPWARD.

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8-104 LOWER UNIT

GREEN

lower unit housing. Insert t h e shift rod i n t o t h e shi f t rod casing.

31- The upper plunger must b e flush with t h e top surface of t h e solenoid. If i t i s not flush -with t h e solenoid, remove t h e solenoid, loosen t h e nut, and make an adjustment. Install the solenoid again and check t h e upper plunger.

32- Check t o be sure t h e inside plunger indexes in to t h e hole in t h e hydraulic pump.

33- Install t h e wavy washer and a NEW gasket into the lower unit housing. Work t h e shi f t wires down into t h e lower unit cavity. Lower t h e cover into place in t h e lower unit housing. The wavy washer will give vou a fa lse Dressure against t h e caD.

sure the wavy washer indexes into t h e recess of t h e cover. S t a r t t h e bolts securing t h e cover. Tighten t h e bolts ALTERNATE- LY and EVENLY. As t h e bolts a r e tightened, make continuous checks t o be sure t h e wavy washer and t h e green solenoid f i t up in to the cover as t h e bolts a r e tightened. This may not be accomplished on t h e f i rs t a t t e m p t , but keeping cool and working slowly will be rewarded with success.

34- Obtain an ohmmeter. Ground one lead of t h e m e t e r , and then check t h e blue

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and green wires for continuity. The ohm- m e t e r should indicate 5 t o 7 ohms.


FIRST, THESE WORDS An improved water pump is available as

a replacement. If t h e old water pump housing is unfit fo r fur ther service, only t h e new pump housing can be purchased. I t is strongly recommended t o replace t h e water pump with t h e improved model while t h e lower unit is disassembled. The accompanying illustration shows t h e original equipment ( left) compared with t h e improved pump (right), reference illustration "An.

The new pump must be assembled before i t is installed. Therefore, t h e following steps outl ine procedures fo r both pumps.

To assemble and install a replacement pump, perform steps 35 thru 43, then jump t o S tep 47.

To install an original equipment pump, proceed directly t o S tep 44.

Assembling an Improved Pump Housing 35- Remove t h e water pump par ts f rom

t h e container. Insert the plate into the housing, as shown. The tang on t h e bottom side of the pla te MUST index into t h e shor t s lo t in t h e pump housing.

36- Slide t h e pump liner in to t h e housing with the two small tabs on t h e bottom side indexed in to t h e two cutouts in t h e plate.

37- Coat the inside diameter of t h e l iner with light-weight oil. Work t h e impeller

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8-106 LOWER UNIT

in to t h e housing with all of the blades bent back t o t h e right, as shown. In th is position, t h e blades will ro ta te properly when t h e pump housing is installed. Remember, t h e pump and t h e blades will be rotating CLOCKWISE when t h e housing is turned over and installed in place on t h e lower unit.

38- Coat t h e mating surface of t h e low- e r unit with 1000 Sealer. Slide t h e water pump base pla te down t h e driveshaft and in to place on the lower unit. Insert t h e Woodruff key in to t h e key slot in t h e driveshaft .

39- Lay down a very th in bead of 1000 sealer in to t h e irregular shaped groove in t h e housing. Insert t h e seal in to t h e groove, and then coa t t h e seal with t h e 1000 Sealer.

Inproved Water Pump Installation 40- Begin t o slide t h e water pump down

t h e driveshaft, and at the s a m e t i m e observe t h e position of t h e slot in t h e impeller. Continue t o work t h e pump down the driveshaft, with t h e slot in t h e impeller indexed over t h e Woodruff key. The pump must be fair ly well aligned before t h e key is covered because t h e slot in t h e impeller is not visible as t h e pump begins t o come close t o t h e base plate.

41- Ins ta l l the short forward bolt through t h e pump and in to t h e lower unit. DO NOT tighten this bolt at this time. In- s e r t t h e grommet in to t h e pump housing.

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42- Install the grommet re ta iner and wate r t u b e guide onto t h e pump housing. Install t h e remaining pump at taching bolts. Tighten t h e bolts ALTERNATELY and EV- ENLY, and at the same t i m e ro ta te t h e driveshaft CLOCKWISE. If t h e driveshaf t is not ro ta ted while t h e a t taching bolts a r e being tightened, i t is possible t o pinch one of the impeller blades underneath t h e housing.

43- Slide the large grommet down t h e driveshaft and seat i t over t h e pump collar. This grommet does not require sealer. Its function is t o prevent exhaust gases f rom entering t h e water pump. Proceed directly t o Lower Unit Installation, Step 47.

Water Pump Installation Original Equipment

Perform t h e following two s teps t o install an original water pump.

44- C o a t t h e water pump pla te mating surface on t h e lower unit with 1000 Sealer. Slide t h e water pump plate down t h e driveshaf t and BEFORE i t makes con tac t with t h e sealer check t o be sure t h e bolt holes in t h e pla te will align with t h e holes in t h e housing. The pla te will only f i t one way. If t h e holes will not align, remove t h e plate, turn i t over and again slide t h e pla te down t h e driveshaf t and in to place on t h e housing.

MPELLER

This checking will prevent accidently get- ting t h e sealer on both sides of t h e plate. If by chance sealer does get on t h e t o p surface i t MUST be removed before t h e water pump impeller is installed.

Slide the water pump impeller down t h e driveshaf t. Jus t before t h e impeller covers t h e cu tou t for t h e Woodruff key, install t h e key, and then work t h e impeller on down, with t h e slot in t h e impeller indexed over t h e Woodruff key. Continue working t h e impeller down until i t is f irmly in place on t h e surface of t h e pump plate.

45- Check t o be sure NEW seals and 0- rings have been installed in t h e water pump. Lubricate the inside surface of the water pump with light-weight oil. Lower t h e wat- e r pump housing down t h e driveshaft and over t h e impeller. ALWAYS r o t a t e t h e driveshaft slowly CLOCKWISE as t h e housing is lowered over t h e impeller t o allow t h e impeller blades t o assume thei r natural and proper position inside t h e housing. Continue t o r o t a t e t h e driveshaft and work t h e water pump housing downward until i t i s sea ted on t h e plate. C o a t the threads of the wa te r pump at taching screws with sealer , and then secure the pump in place with t h e screws. Install t h e solenoid cable bracket with t h e s a m e bolt and in t h e s a m e position from

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8-108 LOWER UNIT

which i t was removed. On some units t h e solenoid cable f i t s in to a recess of t h e water pump and is held in place in t h a t manner. Tighten t h e screws ALTERNATELY and EV- ENLY.


46- Check t o be sure the water tubes a r e clean, smooth, and f r e e of any corrosion. C o a t the water pickup tubes and grommets with lubricant as an aid t o installation. Check t o be sure the spark plug wires a re disconnected f rom t h e spark plugs. Bring the lower unit housing together with t h e exhaust housing, and at t h e s a m e t ime , guide t h e water tube into t h e rubber grom- m e t of t h e water pump. Connect t h e ends of the wire l e f t in the exhaust housing during removal t o t h e blue and green wires f rom the lower unit. Tape the connections, and then oil t h e shi f t cable a s an aid t o slipping t h e cable through t h e exhaust housing.

The following words may sound l ike i t is necessary t o do four things at t h e s a m e t ime, and so i t is. Therefore, make an earnest a t t e m p t t o secure t h e services of an assistant for this task. Continue t o bring t h e two units together and at t h e s a m e t ime: pull t h e wires through t h e exhaust housing; guide t h e water pickup tubes in to

t h e rubber grommet of t h e water pump; and, r o t a t e t h e flywheel slowly t o permit t h e splines of the driveshaft t o index with t h e splines of t h e crankshaft.

47- After t h e surfaces of t h e lower unit and exhaust housing a r e close, dip t h e attaching bolts in OMC Sealer and then s t a r t them in place. Two bolts a r e used on each side of the two housings.

48- Install the retaining bolt in t h e recess of t h e tr im t a b and another bolt in t h e cavitat ion plate. Tighten t h e bolts ALTER- NATELY and EVENLY t o t h e torque value given in t h e Appendix.

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49- Install the tr im t a b with t h e mark made on t h e t a b during disassembling align- e d with t h e mark made on the lower unit housing.

50- Disconnect and remove t h e llpulllf wire used t o feed t h e e lect r ica l wires up through t h e exhaust housing.

51- Obtain an ohmmeter. Ground t h e mete r and again check t h e green and blue wires fo r continuity. The m e t e r should indicate 5 t o 7 ohms. Connect t h e green wire t o t h e green wire and t h e blue wire t o t h e blue wire. After t h e connections have been made, slide t h e sleeve down over t h e connections. A bi t of oil on t h e wires will allow t h e sleeves t o slide more easily.

Filling the Lower Unit See Section 8-3 for detailed procedures




FUNCTIONAL CHECK

Perform a functional check of t h e completed work by mounting t h e engine in a test tank, in a body of water, or with a flush a t t achment connected t o t h e lower unit. If t h e flush a t t achment i s used, NEVER operate t h e engine above an idle speed, because t h e no-load condition on t h e propeller would allow t h e engine t o RUNAWAY resulting in serious damage or destruction of t h e engine.

CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump,

Sta r t t h e engine and observe t h e t a t t l e- t a l e flow of water f rom idle relief in t h e exhaust housing. The water pump installation work is verified. If a "Flushette" i s connected t o t h e lower unit, VERY LITTLE water will be visible f rom t h e idle relief port. Shift the engine into t h e t h r e e gears and check fo r smoothness of operation and sa t is factory performance. Remember, when t h e unit is in forward gear, i t is at res t with no current flow t o e i ther solenoid.

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8-1 10 LOWER

8- 10 "FROZEN"

DESCRIPTION

If an exhaust

UNIT

PROPELLER

propeller is "frozen" t o t h e - - propeller shaf t and t h e usual methods of removal fail, using a mallet t o beat on t h e propeller blades in an e f fo r t t o dislodge t h e propeller will have l i t t l e if any affect . This is due t o t h e cushioning a f f e c t t h e rubber hub has on t h e blow being struck.

A "frozen" propeller is caused by t h e inner sleeve becoming corroded and stuck t o t h e propeller shaft . Theref ore, special procedures a r e required t o f r e e t h e propeller and remove i t f rom t h e shaft .

The following detailed procedures a r e presented as t h e only practical method t o remove a "frozen" propeller from t h e shaf t without damaging other more expensive parts. In almost all cases i t is successful.

REMOVAL

1- Remove the c o t t e r pin, and then the cas te l la ted nut and splined washer from t h e propeller shaft .

2- E e a t the inside diameter sf t h e propeller with a torch. Do not apply t h e h e a t t o the outside surface of the propeller. Concentra te t h e heat in t h e a r e a sf t h e hub and shaf t where t h e nut was removed and as f a r in to t h e hub a s possible. Continue applying heat , and at the s a m e t i m e have an assistant use a piece of 7lq x 4" wooden block

wedged between one of the blades and t h e lower unit housing. Use a prying f o r c e on t h e propeller while t h e heat is being applied. As t h e heat mel t s t h e inner rubber hub, t h e propeller will c o m e free.

W A R N I N G As the force and heat a r e applied, t h e

propeller may "pop" loose suddenly and

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"FROZEN" PROPELLER 8- 1 1 1

without warning. Therefore, stand t o one side while applying t h e heat as a precaurion against personal injury.

3- Afte r t h e propeller has been removed, t h e sleeve and what's l e f t of t h e rubber hub will still be stuck t o t h e propeller shaf t . At tach a puller t o t h e thrus t washer. Apply more heat t o t h e sleeve and rubber hub, and at the s a m e t i m e t a k e up on the puller. When t h e sleeve reaches t h e proper temperature , i t will b e released and c o m e free .

4- If a puller is not available, as describ- e d in S t e p 3, use a sharp knife and c u t t h e rubber hub from t h e sleeve. An a l t e r n a t e method is t o use canned heat , or t h e equivalent , and set f i re t o t h e rubber hub. Allow t h e hub t o burn away f rom the sleeve. When t h e f i r e burns out , only a small amount may b e l e f t on the sleeve. Heat t h e sleeve again, and then while i t is still hot, use a chisel, punch, or similar tool with a hammer , and drive t h e sleeve f r e e of t h e shaft . Allow the propeller shaf t t o cool, and then clean t h e splines thoroughly. Take t i m e t o remove any corrosion. Install the propeller with a MEW hub and sleeve according t o t h e instructions outlined in Section 8-2.

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HAND STARTER

9-1 DESCRIPTION ENGINES WITH MANUAL SHIFT AND MAGNETO IGNITION 50 HP, V4 - 1958 AND 1959 75 HP, V4 - 1960 TO 1965

General The manual s t a r t e r , installed on t h e en-

gines l isted in t h e heading, consists of a spring loaded pulley, a spring loaded pawl, and a s ta r t e r rope. The pulley has a groove t o accept the rope and the spring loaded pawl engages ra tche t segments cast in to t h e flywheel, when t h e s t a r t e r rope is pulled. This pawl automatically disengages t h e flywheel when force on t h e rope is released. The tension built up in t h e pulley spring as t h e rope is pulled, causes the pulley t o be restored t o i t s original position at t h e s a m e t i m e t h e s t a r t e r rope is rewound around t h e pulley, reference illustrations "Am and *Bm.

Safety Pawl A safe ty pawl arrangement i s incorpor-

a t e d t o prevent any a t t e m p t t o manually s t a r t t h e engine when i t i s in gear, e i ther FORWARD o r REVERSE The arrangement consists of a pawl which engages and disengages "stop" lugs cast onto t h e underside a' t h e s t a r t e r pulley and linked with t h e shi f t control lever. When t h e shi f t lever is in t h e NEUTRAL position, t h e pawl disengages t h e "stop" lugs 'on t h e s t a r t e r pulley and hand cranking is permitted. If t h e shi f t lever is in ei ther gear, t h e "stop" lugs on t h e s t a r t e r pulley engage t h e pawl and prevent t h e pulley from rotating. In th is manner, hand cranking is not possible with t h e shi f t lever in gear, reference illustration "Cm, next page-

W A R N I N G As with other types of hand s ta r t e r s , t h e

rewind spring is a potential hazard. T h e s ~ r i n e : i s under tremendous tension when i t

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9-2 MANUAL STARTER

is wound -- a real t iger in a cage. If t h e spring should accidentally be released, severe personal injury could result f rom being s t ruck by t h e spring with force. Therefore, t h e service instructions MUST, and w e say again MUST, be followed closely t o prevent release of t h e spring at t h e wrong time. Such action would be a BAD SCENE, a very BAD SCENE, because serious personal injury could result.

The s ta r t e r rope should NEVER be released from t h e extended position. Such action would allow the spring t o wind with incredible speed, resulting in serious damage t o t h e s t a r t e r mechanism.

Any t i m e t h e rope is broken, t h e s t a r t e r spring will r ewind with incredible speed.

Such act ion will cause t h e spring t o rewind past i t s normal travel and t h e end of the spring will be bent back ou t of shape. Therefore, if t h e rope has been broken, t h e s t a r t e r should be completely disassembled and t h e spring repaired or replaced, reference illustration "Dm.

STARTER REMOVAL

1- Remove t h e neutral l a t ch screw from t h e s t a r t e r housing.

2- Remove the a t taching bolts securing t h e t h r e e legs of t h e s t a r t e r housing t o t h e powerhead. Remove the hand s ta r t e r and lay i t on t h e bench with t h e pulley facing towards you.

DISASSEMBLING

3- Pull t h e rope ou t enough t o t i e a knot in t h e rope. Tie a knot, and then allow t h e rope t o rewind t o t h e knot. Work t h e rope

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DISASSEMBLING 9-3

anchor ou t of t h e rubber covered handle, then remove t h e rope from the anchor. Remove t h e handle f rom t h e rope. Untie t h e knot in t h e rope, and then hold t h e disc pulley, but permite i t ' t o turn and thus allow 4- Remove t h e E-clip from t h e nylon t h e rope t o wind back onto the pulley pawl* SLOWLY. Continue t o allow t h e spring in 5- Remove t h e fr ict ion spring and t h e t h e p u l l e y t o u n w i n d S L O W L Y u n t i l a l l t e n - ~ a w l f r o m t h e s t a r t e r h o u s i n g * sion has been released. 6- Unwind the rope ou t of t h e pulley

groove. Pull t h e knot and t h e rope out fa; enough t o untie t h e knot, and then pull t h e rope f r e e of t h e pulley.

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9-4 MANUAL STARTER

7- Set t h e s t a r t e r on t h e bench in its normal position on i t s t h r e e legs. Remove t h e nut from t h e center of the s t a r t e r housing.

8- Remove t h e bolt, lockwasher, and washer f rom t h e center of t h e pulley spindle. Lif t t h e spindle ou t of t h e pulley, and at t h e s a m e t i m e hold t h e pulley firmly together with t h e housing.

9- Lif t t h e pulley straight up and at t h e s a m e t i m e work t h e spring f r e e of t h e pulley. The spring has a small loop hooked in to t h e pulley. An a l t e rna te and s a f e method is t o hold t h e pulley and t h e housing together t ightly and turn t h e complete assembly with t h e legs extending downward in t h e normal manner. Now, lower t h e complete assembly t o t h e floor. When t h e legs make con tac t with t h e floor, re lease your grip. The pulley will fal l and t h e spring will b e released f rom t h e housing, but t h e t h r e e legs will contain t h e spring and prevent i t from traveling across the room. If t h e spring was not released from t h e housing, t h e only s a f e method is t o again make contact with t h e th ree legs on t h e floor and jar t h e spring free.


If t h e rope was broken and t h e spring is bent backward, as shown in t h e accompanying illustration, i t is a simple m a t t e r t o bend t h e spring end back t o its normal position. The next illustration clearly shows a spring end properly positioned in t h e housing.

Wash all parts , except t h e rope, in solvent and then blow them dry with compressed air.

Remove any t r a c e of corrosion and wipe all me ta l par ts with an oil dampened cloth.

Inspect t h e rope. Replace t h e rope if i t appears t o b e weak or frayed. if t h e rope is frayed, check t h e hole through which t h e rope passes for rough edges or burrs. Re- move the rough edges or burrs with a file, and polish t h e surface until i t is smooth.

Inspect t h e s t a r t e r spring end loops. Re- place t h e spring if it is weak, corroded, or cracked. Check t h e spring pin located at t h e back side of t h e pulley t o be sure it is straight and solid.

Check t h e inside surface of t h e housing and remove any burrs.

The rope on this unit broke, causing the spring to rewind with incredible speed. The end of the spring was bent back in the wrong direction.

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ASSEMBLING 9-5

Check t h e condition of t h e pawl spring t o be su re i t is not s t re tched out of shape. The end of the spring should be bent back towards t h e coil of t h e spring. Inspect t h e pawl for wear and make sure t h e edges a r e not rounded.

Check t h e fr ict ion spring and link t o be sure they a r e not distorted.

Inspect t h e spindle. The spindle must be straight and tight.

ASSEMBLING

ROPE INSTALLATION

Rope Purchase Instructions The diameter and length of s t a r t e r rope

must be a definite s ize for maximum efficiency and rope life. The s ize for a l l engines covered in this section is 7/32!' (5.56 rnm) diameter and 69-3/4" (1.77m) in length. Purchase a quality nylon piece of t h e proper length and diameter size. Only with the proper rope, will you be assured of ef f ic ient operation following installation.

Each end of t h e nylon rope should he "fused" by burning them slightly with a very small f l a m e (a match f l a m e will do) t o mel t t h e f ibers together. Af te r t h e end fibers have been "fused" and while they a r e still hot, use a piece of cloth a s protection and pull the end out f l a t t o prevent a "glob" from f orrning.

SAFETY WORD Wear a good pair of gloves while install-

ing t h e spring. The spring will develop tension and the edges of the sprinp s teel mater ia l a r e sharp. The gloves will prevent cuts on your hands and fingers.

Damaged pawl unfit for further service.

1- Slide t h e spring onto t h e ou te r pin and then s t a r t the spring from the outside edge of t h e housing and insert i t in to t h e housing COUNTERCLOCKWISE, as shown in t h e accompanying illustration. Not ice t h e small hump in the housing. This hump prevents t h e spring from k i n g wound in t b e wrong direction. Vork t h e f i rs t turn into t h e housing, and then hold t h e spring down with one hand and continue t o wind the spring in to t h e housinp. Pat ience and t i m e a r e required t o work t h e spring c o v p l e t e l y in to t h e housing. Af te r %be las t portion is in place, bend t h e end s f the sprina towarcds t h e center of t h e housing. This p s i t i o n will allow t h e pulley pin t o align w i th t h e loop in t h e end of t h e spring, when t h e pulley is installed.

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9-6 MANUAL STARTER

Alternate Method An a l t e rna te method t o install a NEW

spring in to t h e housing, with less risk of personal injury, is presented with accompanying illustrations.

A- Remove ONLY t h e hog ring next t o t h e end of t h e outside wrap of t h e spring.

B- Pull on t h e outside end of t h e spring. As t h e spring is pulled, t h e inside diameter will ge t smaller and smaller, a s shown. When t h e diameter is a bit smaller t h a n t h e inside diameter of t h e s t a r t e r housing, wrap t h e ent i re f r e e end of t h e spring around t h e coiled portion.

C- CAREFULLY lower t h e coiled spring into t h e s t a r t e r housing with t h e loop on t h e f r e e end of the spring indexed over t h e peg in t h e housing and t h e spring feeding COUNTERCLOCKWISE, as shown. Remove t h e second hog ring WITHOUT allowing t h e spring t o escape from the housing. An easy and s a f e m e t hod is t o c u t t h e hog ring with a pair of "dikes". Bend t h e inside end of t h e spring toward t h e center of t h e housing t o permit t h e pin in t h e pulley t o index in to t h e loop.

2- Lower t h e pulley down over t h e t o p of the spring with t h e pulley pin indexing i ntn t h e loop in t h e end of t h e spring. In t h e

is the p[n that MUST index- into the loop on the spring end &rfrag fnstallation.

accompanying illustration, not ice t h e call- o u t f o r t h e boss on t h e backside of t h e pulley. The pin is located directly under t h e boss. The boss can, therefore , be a guide during pulley installation.

3- Lower t h e spindle assembly down through the pulley. Place t h e washer and lockwasher inside t h e spindle housing and then install the bolt through t h e washer into t h e housing. Tighten t h e bolt securely. Check t o be sure t h e pulley will r o t a t e smoothly and does not bind on t h e spindle. R o t a t e t h e pulley slightly COUNTER- CLOCKWISE, and then re lease it t o be su re t h e r e is proper engagement with t h e spring and t h e pulley has good spring tension.

4- Set the s t a r t e r on t h e bench in i t s normal position on its t h r e e legs. Tighten t h e nut in t h e center of t h e housing.

5- Install t h e fr ict ion spring and link and t h e nylon pawl onto t h e s t a r t e r hub. The frict ion spring f i t s in to a groove in t h e spindle. Pull just a l i t t l e on t h e pawl and set i t over t h e stud on t h e flywheel pulley.

6- Snap t h e E-clip over t h e t o p of the pawl t o secure i t in place.

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ASSEMBLING 9-7

7- Rot ate the hub COUNTERCLOCK- WISE until i t is tight. From this position, back off t h e pulley about 1/2 turn until the out le t hole in t h e pulley aligns with t h e hole in t h e housing. Once t h e holes a r e aligned, insert a drif t pin through t h e pulley and in to t h e b u s i n g t o prevent t h e pulley from re- winding. Tie a figure 8 knot in t h e end of t h e rope and then feed t h e rope through t h e recess in t h e pulley and ou t through t h e housing.

8- Install the pull handle by working t h e rope through t h e rubber part s f t h e handle. Secure the rope t o the anchor. Work t h e anchor in to t h e handle. Hold t h e rope t ight and at the s a m e t i m e remove the dr i f t pin frorr t h e pulley. Allow t h e pulley t o SLOW- LY rewind and at the s a m e t i m e feed t h e rope info t h e pulley.

9- With t h e s t a r t e r still on i t s back, pull t h e rope with quick movements, and at t h e s a m e t i m e check t h e pawl t o be sure i t v o w s toward t h e center of t h e pulley. Release the rope slowly and check t o be su re t h e pawl returns t o i t s oripinal position.

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9-8 MANUAL STARTER

STARTER INSTALLATION

10- Position the s t a r t e r over t h e flywheel with t h e t h r e e legs aligned over t h e holes in t h e powerhead for the retaining bolts. Install t h e retaining bolts and t ighten them securely. Place t h e neutral l a t ch in position and secure it t o t h e housing with t h e a t taching screw. Tighten t h e screw securely. GOOD WORDS

The NEUTRAL lockout pawl can be adjusted. This pawl is a sa fe ty f e a t u r e fo r t h e operator t o prevent the hand s t a r t e r from being operated if t h e shi f t lever is in gear -- FORWARD or REVERSE.

Safety Pawl Adjustment 11- Disconnect t h e shi f t cable at the

engine. Manually shi f t t h e engine in to FOR- WARD gear and at the s a m e t i m e have an assistant r o t a t e t h e propeller. Check with t h e propeller t o be sure t h e engine is in gear. At tempt t o pull on t h e s t a r t e r rope. The a t t e m p t should fail -- t h e s t a r t e r should NOT rotate. Shift t h e engine i n t o REVERSE gear and again a t t e m p t t o pull on t h e s tar t- er rope. Again, t h e a t t e m p t should fail -- t h e s t a r t e r should NOT rotate. If t h e s tar t- e r should ro ta te during either one of t h e s e tests, t h e linkage t o t h e tower s h a f t at t h e rea r of t h e engine must be adjusted t o move t h e pawl up closer t o t h e bottom of t h e pulley. If t h e s t a r t e r cannot be ro ta ted when t h e shift lever is in t h e NEUTRAL position, t h e pawl is too close. Release t h e eyele t on t h e tower shaf t and lower t h e pawl away f rom t h e pulley a bit.

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MA1 NTENANCE

10-1 INTRODUCTION

The authors es t imate t h a t 75% of engine repair work can be directly or indirectly at- tributed t o lack of proper c a r e for t h e engine. This is especially t r u e of c a r e during t h e off-season period. There is no way on th is green ea r th for a mechanical engine, particularly an outboard motor, t o b e l e f t si t t ing idle for an extended period of t ime, say for six months, and then be ready for instant sa t is factory service. Imagine, if you will, leaving your automobile for six months, and then expecting t o turn t h e key, have i t roar t o life.

I t is cri t ical for an outboard engine t o b e run at l eas t once a month with WATER circulating through t h e unit, e i ther with a

-

STERN - AFT Common terminology used throughout tne world for

reference designation on boats. These are the terms used in this book.

flush a t t achment , with t h e engine mounted in a test tank, o r with t h e engine mounted on a boat in a body of water. A t t h e s a m e t ime, t h e shi f t mechanism should be operat- e d through t h e full range several t imes and t h e steering operated from hard-over t o hard-over.

Only through a regular maintenance program can t h e owner expec t t o receive long l i f e and sa t is factory performance at minimum cost.

Many t imes, if an outboard is not performing properly, t h e owner will "nurse" i t through the season with good intentions of working on t h e unit once i t is no longer being used. As with many New Year's resolutions, t h e good intentions a r e no t completed, and t h e outboard may l i e for many months before t h e work is begun o r t h e unit is taken t o t h e marine shop f o r repair.

Imagme, if you will, t h e cause of t h e problem being a blown head gasket. And l e t us assume water has found its way into a cylinder. This water, allowed t o remain over a long period of t ime, will do considerably more damage than i t would have if t h e unit had been disassembled and t h e repair work performed immediately. THERE- FORE, if an outboard is not functioning properly, DO NOT stow i t away with promis- es t o ge t at i t when you g e t t ime, because t h e work and expense will only get worse, t h e longer correct ive action is postponed. In t h e example of t h e blown head gasket, a relatively simple and inexpensive repair job could very well develop into major overhaul and rebuild work.

Chapter Coverage The material presented in this chapter is

divided in to f ive general areas. 1- General information every boat own-

er should know.

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10-2 MAINTENANCE

2- Maintenance tasks t h a t should b e performed periodically t o keep t he boat operating at minimum cost.

3- Care necessary t o maintain t h e appearance of t h e boat and to give t h e owner t h a t "Pride of Ownership" look.

4- Winter storage practices t o minimize damage during t h e off-season when t h e boat is not in use.

5- Preseason preparation work a r e tasks t h a t should be performed t o ensure satisf actory performance t h e f i rs t t i m e i t is put in service.

In nautical terms, t h e front of t h e boat is t h e bow and t h e direction is forward; t h e rear is t h e stern and t h e direction is aft; t h e right side, when facing forward, is t h e starboard side; and t h e l e f t side is t h e port side. All directional references in th is manual use this terminology. Therefore, t h e direction f rom which an i t em is viewed is of no consequence, because starboard and port NEVER change no m a t t e r where t h e individual is located or in which direction he may b e looking.

Manufacturer's Identiffcatton plate mtnmted on the swtvel houdng at the front of the engine underneath the cowltng.

10-2 ENGINE SERIAL NUMBERS

The engine serial numbers a r e t h e manufacturer 's key t o engine changes. These numbers identify t h e year of manufacture, t h e qualified horsepower rating, and t h e par ts book identification. If any correspon- dence or par ts are required, t h e engine model number MUST be used or proper identif ication is not possible. The accompanying illustrations will be very helpful in locating t h e engine identification t a g fo r t h e various models.

ONE MORE WORD The model number establishes t h e year

in which t h e engine was produced and not necessarily t h e year of f i rs t installation.

On all model engines covered in th is manual, t h e pla te is mounted on t h e port side of t h e engine on t h e f ron t o r side of t h e swivel bracket. The hp and rpm range will also be found on t h e plate.

Manufacturer's identification plate lnstdled on the port side of the transom bracket.

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FIBERGLASS HULLS 11 0-3

10-3 FIBERGLASS HULLS

Fiberglass reinforced plastic hulls a r e tough, durable, and highly resistant t o impact. However, l ike any other material they can be damaged. One of t h e advantages of th is type of construction is t h e re la t ive ease with which i t may be repaired. Because of i t s break characterist ics, and t h e simple techniques used in restoration, these hulls have gained popularity throughout t h e world. From t h e most congested urban marina, t o isolated lakes in wilderness areas, t o t h e severe cold of f a r off northern seas, and in sunny tropic remote rivers of A new fiberglass boat and trailer outfit readyfor an primitive islands or continents, f iberglass Owner a d a Pow@ Package. boats can be found performing thei r daily task with a minimum of maintenance.

A fiberglass hull has almost no internal stresses. Therefore, when t h e hull is broken or stove-in, i t retains i t s t rue form. I t will not dent t o t a k e an out-of-shape set. When t h e hull sustains a severe blow, t h e impac t will be e i ther absorbed by deflection of t h e laminated panel or t h e blow will result in a definite, localized break. In addition t o hull damage, bulkheads, str ingers, and other stif - fening structures, a t t ached t o t h e hull, may also be a f fec ted and therefore. should be checked. Repairs a r e usually confined t o t h e general a r e a of t h e rupture.

10-4 ALUMINUM HULLS

Aluminum boats have become popular in recent years because they a r e so light- weight. These aluminum c r a f t a r e available in sizes ranging f rom small &foot prams t o

't ROCKER

2 HOOK

An aluminurn boat ready for an engine. Boats used with the larger horsepower engines are usual1 y trailered to the water.

Simple drawing to illustrate two types of possible A boat and outboard used in salt water. Notice the damage to the hull. Such injury to the boat will o f f ect marine growth on the lower unit and the anti-fouling the boat's performance and subtract from the owner's bottom paint on the hull which prevented the marine enjo ym ent . growth.

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10-4 MAINTENANCE

twin-hulled pontoon houseboats o r swimming "rafts" in excess of 30 feet .

One of t h e advantages of an aluminum hull is t h e easy maintenance program required, and t h e ability of t h e material t o resist corrosion.

As an added protection against mar ine growth, t h e below-the-waterline a r e a may b e painted with an anti-fouling paint. Bot- t o m paint sold for use on a wooden or fiberglass hull i s NOT suitable. A t t h e t i m e of purchase, check t o b e sure t h e paint contains t h e chemical properties required for an aluminum surface. The label should clearly indicate t h e intended use is specific- ally for aluminum.

If t h e aluminum hull does not have anti- fouling paint but requires cleaning t o remove marine growth, one method is t o rub t h e hull with a gunny sack just as soon as t h e boat is removed from the water and while it is still wet. The roughness of t h e sack is fairly effect ive in cleaning t h e sur- f a c e of marine growth, including crustaceans (barnacles for instance) t h a t have a t t ached themselves t o t h e hull. As soon as t h e rubdown has been completed, t h e hull should be washed with high-pressure f resh water.

If t h e rubdown and wash was not accomplished immediately a f t e r t h e boat was removed from t h e water and the hull was

An aluminum boat with the wooden seat removed exposing the styrofoam blocks for flotation. The seat should be removed at least once each season and the blocks thoroughly dried.

allowed to dry, i t will be necessary t o cover t h e hull with wet blankets, gunny sacks, o r o ther suitable material , and t o continue soaking t h e covering until t h e growth is loosened. An easy a l t e rna te method, of course, is t o re turn t h e boat t o t h e water , if possible, and t h e n too pull i t ou t a f t e r i t has been allowed t o soak.

If an aluminum boat should s t r ike an underwater object resulting in ,damage t o t h e hull and a leak develops, t h e only emergency action possible is t o make an a t t e m p t t o reduce t h e amount of water being taken on by stuffing any t y p e of available mater ia l in to t h e opening until t h e boat i s returned t o shore. The aluminum cannot b e repaired while i t is wet. Repair of a damaged hull must be performed by a shop equipped f o r heliarc welding and o ther aluminum work.

Styrofoam blocks a r e installed under t h e seats of all aluminum boats. The foam blocks a r e designed for f lotation t o prevent t h e boat from sinking even if i t should fill with water. Once each season, t h e wooden seat should be removed and t h e foam allowed t o dry. Some manufacturers enclose t h e foam blocks in plastic bags prior t o installation t o protect them from moisture and loss of thei r f lotat ion ability. New blocks may be purchased in a wide range of sizes. If new blocks a r e obtained, make an a t t e m p t t o enclose t h e block in some form of plastic covering, then seal t h e package before installing i t under t h e seat.

10-5 BELOW WATERLINE SERVICE

A foul bottom can seriously a f f e c t boat performance. This i s one reason why racers, large and small, both powerboat and sail, a r e constantly giving a t tent ion t o t h e condition of t h e hull below t h e waterline.

In a reas where marine growth is prevalent , a coating of vinyl anti-fouling bot tom paint should be applied. If growth has developed on t h e bottom, i t can be removed with a solution o f muriatic ac id applied with a brush or swab and then rinsed with c lear water. ALWAYS use rubber gloves when working with muria t ic ac id and TAKE EXTRA CARE t o keep i t away f rom your face and hands. The FUMES ARE TOXIC. Therefore, work in a well-ventilated area , or if outside, keep your f a c e on t h e wind- ward side of t h e work.

Barnacles have a nasty habit of makin thei r home on t h e bottom of boats whic R

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SUBMERGED ENGINE 10-5

have not been t rea ted with anti-fouling paint. Actually t h e y will not harm t h e fiberglass hull, but can develop in to a major nuisance.

If barnacles or other crustaceans have a t t ached themselves t o t h e hull, e x t r a work will b e required t o bring t h e bottom back t o a sa t is factory condition. Fi rs t , if practical , put t h e boat in to a body of fresh water and allow i t t o remain for a few days. A l a r g e percentage of t h e growth can be removed in th is manner. If th is remedy is not possible, wash t h e bottom thoroughly with a high- pressure f resh wate r source and use a scraper. Small part icles of hard shell may still hold fast. These can b e removed with sandpaper.

10-6 SUBMERGED ENGEJE SERVICE

A submerged engine is always t h e result of an unforeseen accident. Once t h e englne is recovered, special c a r e and service procedures MUST be closely followed in order t o return t h e unit t o satisfactory performance.

NEVER, again we say NEVER, allow an engine t h a t has been submerged t o s tand more than a couple hours before following t h e procedures outlined in th is sect ion and making every e f fo r t t o ge t i t running. Such delay will result in serious inter-nal damage. If all ef for ts fai l and t h e engine cannot b e s t a r t ed a f t e r t h e following procedures have been performed, t h e engine should be disassembled, cleaned, assembled, using new gaskets, seals, and O-rings, and then s t a r t e d as soon as possible.

Submerged engine t rea tment is divided in to t h r e e unique problem areas: submersion in s a l t water; submerged engine while running; and a submerged engine in f resh water , including special instructions.

Crankshaft from a submerged V 4 engine recovered from salt water. In a very short time, the crankshaft

Rod bearing and cages badly damaged by salt water corrosion.

The most cri t ical of these t h r e e circumstances is the engine submerged in sa l t water , with submersion while- running a close second.

Salt Water Submersion NEVER a t t e m p t t o s t a r t the engine

a f t e r i t has been recovered. This action will only result in additional par ts being damaged and t h e cost of restoring t h e engine increased considerably. If the engine was submerged in sa l t wa te r t h e complete unit MUST b e disassembled, cleaned, and assembled with new gaskets, O-rings, and seals. The corrosive e f f e c t of sa l t water can only be eliminated by t h e complete job being properly performed.

Cleaner to restore an engine recovered from fresh water after it has been submerged. was severely damaged by corrosion.

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10-6 MAINTENANCE

Subrn erged While Running Special Instructions

If t h e engine was running when i t was submerged, t h e chances of internal engine damage is great ly increased. After t h e engine has been recovered, remove t h e spark plugs and a t t e m p t t o r o t a t e t h e flywheel. Use a socket wrench on t h e flywheel nut. If t h e a t t e m p t t o r o t a t e t h e flywheel fails, t h e chances of serious internal damage, such as bent connecting rod, bent crankshaft , or damaged cylinder, is great ly increased. If all a t t e m p t s t o r o t a t e t h e flywheel fai l , t h e powerhead must be com- pletel y disassembled.

Submerged Engine - Fresh Water SPECIAL WORD

As an aid t o performing t h e restoration work, t h e followin steps a r e numbered and should be followe $ in sequence. However, illustrations a r e not included with t h e procedural s t eps because t h e work involved is general in nature.

1- Recover t h e engine as quickly as possible.

2- Remove t h e hood and t h e spark plugs. 3- Remove t h e carburetor. To rebuild

t h e carburetor, see Chapter 4. 4- Flush t h e outside of t h e engine with

f resh wate r t o remove silt, mud, sand, weeds, and other debris. DO NOT a t t e m p t t o s t a r t the engine if sand has entered t h e powerhead. Such action will only result in serious damage t o powerhead components. Sand in t h e powerhead means t h e unit must b e disassembled.

5- Remove as much water as possible f rom t h e powerhead. Most of t h e water can b e eliminated by f i rs t holding t h e engine in a horizontal position with t h e spark plug holes DOWN, and then cranking t h e engine with t h e rewind s t a r t e r o r with a socke t wrench on t h e flywheel nut.

6- Alcohol will absorb water. There- fore, pour alcohol into t h e carburetor th roa t and again crank t h e engine.

7- Lay t h e en ine in a horizontal posi- k tion, and then rol i t over until t h e spark plug openings are facing UPWARD. Pour alcohol in to t h e spark plug openings and again crank t h e engine.

8- Eoll t h e engine in t h e horizontal position until t h e spark plug openings a r e again facing DOWN. Pour engine oil in to t h e carburetor throat and, at t h e s a m e t ime,

crank t h e engine t o distr ibute oil throughout t h e crankcase.

9- With t h e engine still in a horizontal position, roll it over until t h e spark plug holes are again facing UPWARD. Pour approximately one teaspoon of engine oil in to each spark plug opening. Crank t h e engine t o distr ibute t h e oil in t h e cylinders.

10- Install t h e spark plugs and t ighten them t o t h e torque value given in t h e Ap- pendix. Connect t h e high-tension leads t o t h e spark plugs.

11- Install t h e carburetor onto t h e engine with a NEW gasket on t h e in take manifold.

12- Mount t h e engine in a test tank o r body of water.


Obtain FRESH fuel and a t t e m p t t o s t a r t t h e engine. If the engine will s t a r t , allow i t t o run for approximately an hour t o elimi- n a t e any water remaining in t h e engine.

Rust preventative to be sprayed inside the engine fn preparation for storage, as explained in the text.

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WINTER STORAGE 10-7

13- If t h e engine fa i ls t o s t a r t , determine t h e cause, electrical or fuel, c o r r e c t t h e problem, and again a t t e m p t t o g e t it running. NEVER allow an engine t o remain unstarted f o r more than a couple hours without following t h e procedures in this section and a t tempt ing t o s t a r t it. If at- tempts t o s t a r t the engine fail, t h e unit should be disassembled, cleaned, assembled, using new gaskets, seals, and O-rings, just as soon as possible.

10-7 WINTER STORAGE

Taking ex t ra t i m e t o s to re t h e boat properly at t h e end of each season, will increase t h e chances of sa t is factory service fo r t h e next season. REMEMBER, idleness is t h e g rea tes t enemy of an outboard motor. The unit should be run on a monthly basis. The boat steering and shifting mechanism should also b e worked through complete cycles several t imes each month. The owner who spends a small amount of t i m e involved in such maintenance will be rewarded by sa t is factory performance, and great ly reduced maintenance expense fo r par ts and labor.

ALWAYS remove t h e drain plug and position t h e boat with t h e bow higher t h a n t h e stern. This will allow any rain water

and me1 ted snow t o drain f rom t h e boat and prevent " trailer sinking". This t e rm is used t o describe a boat t h a t has filled with rain water and ruined t h e interior, because t h e plug was not removed or t h e bow was not high enough t o allow t h e water t o drain properly.

Proper s torage for the engine involves adequate protection of t h e unit f rom physical damage, rust , corrosion, and dirt.

The following s teps provide an adequate maintenance program for storing t h e unit at t h e end of a season.

1- Remove the hood. S ta r t t h e engine and allow i t t o warm t o operating temperature.

CAUTION: Water must c i rcu la te through the lower unit to the engine any t i m e t h e engine is run to prevent damage to t h e w a t e r pump i n t h e lower unit. J u s t f ive seconds without wa te r will damage the wate r pump,

Disconnect the fuel l ine from t h e engine and allow t h e unit t o run at LOW rpm and, at the s a m e t ime, in ject about 4 ounces of rust preventative spray through each carburetor throat . Allow t h e engine t o run until i t shuts down from lack of fuel, indica t ing t h e carburetor ls a r e dry of fuel.

2- Drain t h e fuel tank and t h e fuel lines. Pour approximately one qt. of benzol (ben- zene) in to t h e fuel tank, and then rinse t h e t a n k and pickup f i l ter with t h e benzol. Drain t h e tank. Store t h e fuel t ank in a cool d ry a r e a with t h e vent OPEN t o allow ai r t o c i rcula te through t h e tank. DO NOT s t o r e t h e fuel tank on bare concrete. Place t h e t ank t o allow air t o c i rcula te around it. If

DRAIN PLUG

- \

V4 engine stiZl mounted on the boat but in a test tank. The engine can be safely operated at idle speeds in preparation for winter storage, as explained in the text.

Drain plug removed from the transom to allow min and melted snow to &ain from the boat. Failure to remove this plug during long periods of storage can cause "bolcu" problems.

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10-8 MAINTENANCE

Standard OMC fuel tank. During periods of storage the tank should be empty and the cap "cracked" Open to dlow the tank to "breathe".

t h e fuel tank containing fuel is t o be s tored fo r more than a month, a commercial addi- t ive such as Sta-Bil should be added t o t h e fuel. This type of addit ive will maintain t h e fuel in a "fresh" condition for up t o a full year.

3- Clean t h e carburetor fuel f i l ter /s with benzol, see Chapter 4, Carburetor Re- pair Section.

OMC fuel conditioner added to the fuel will keep it fresh for up to one full year.

Rust preventative to be used when preparing the engine f or long periods of non-use and storage.

Chemical additives, such as Sta-Bil and the OMC fuel conditioner at the top of the page will prevent fuel from "souring" for up to twelve months.

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LOWER UNIT 10-9

4- Drain, and then fill t h e lower unit with 0 M C Lower Unit Gear Lubricant, as outlined in Section 10-8.

5- Lubricate t h e th ro t t l e and shift linkage. Lubr icate t h e swivel pin and t h e t i l t t u b e with Multipurpose Lubricant, o r equiv- al ent .

Clean t h e engine thoroughly. C o a t t h e powerhead with Corrosion an> Rust Preven- t a t i v e spray. Install t h e hood and then apply a thin film of fresh engine oil t o all painted surfaces.

Remove t h e propeller. Apply P e r f e c t Seal or a waterproof sealer t o t h e propeller shaf t , and then install t h e propeller back in position.

FINAL WORDS: Be sure all drain holes in t h e gear housing a r e open and f r e e of obstruction. Check t o be sure t h e FLUSH plug has been removed to allow all water t o drain. Trapped water could f reeze , expand, and cause expensive castings t o crack.

Durlng wlnter storage, t h e lower unit MUST b e lower than t h e powerhead. This position will allow water t o drain f rom t h e water pump and prevent water from being

Adding lubricant to the lower unit. The lubricant must always be added through the drain plug after the upper vent plug has been removed.

t rapped inside t h e engine or lower unit. Larger engines a r e usually l e f t secured t o t h e boat --their weight is too g r e a t f o r convenient removal and installation. There- fore , raise t h e bow of t h e boa t slightly, remove t h e drain plug in t h e transom, and make sure t h e lower unit remains at a lower elevation than t h e powerhead.

10-8 LOWER UNIT SERVICE

PROPELLERS

With Shear Pin The propeller should b e checked regular-

l y t o be sure all t h e blades a r e in good condition. If any of the blades become bent or nicked, such damage will set up vibra- tions in t h e motor. Remove and inspect t h e propeller. Use a f i le t o tr im nicks and burrs. TAKE CARE not t o remove any more material than is absolutely necessary. For a complete check, t a k e t h e propeller t o your marine dealer where t h e proper equipment and knowledgeable mechanics a r e available t o perform a proper job at modest cost.

Inspect t h e propeller shaf t t o b e su re i t is still t rue and not bent. If t h e s h a f t is not perfectly true, i t should be replaced.

With Exhaust Propellers with t h e exhaust passing

through t h e hub MUST be removed more frequently than t h e standard propeller. Re- moval a f t e r each weekend use or outing i s not considered excessive. These propellers do not have a shear pin. The shaf t and

Propeller with grooves worn into the hub.

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10- 10 MAINTENANCE

propeller have splines which MUST be coa t- ed with an anti-corrosion lubricant prior t o installation a s an aid t o removal t h e nex t t ime the propeller i s pulled. Even with t h e lubricant applied t o the shaf t splines, the propeller may be difficult t o remove. The propeller with the exhaust hub is p o r e expensive than t h e standard propeller and therefore , t h e cost of rebuilding t h e unit, if t h e hub is damaged, is justified.

A replaceable diffuser ring on t h e backside of t h e propeller dispurses t h e exhaust away from the propeller blades. If t h e ring becomes broken or damaged "ventilation" would be c rea ted pulling t h e exhaust gases back in to t h e negative pressure a rea behinc' t h e propeller. This condition would c r e a t e considerable air bubbles and reduce t h e ef- f ectiveness of t h e propeller.

Standard Propeller Removal First , remove t h e high-tension leads

f rom t h e spark plugs t o prevent t h e engine from firing when the propeller is t u r n 4 . Next, pull t h e co t t e r key, and then remove t h e propeller nut, drive pin, and washer. Because t h e drive pip is not a t ight f i t , t h e propeller is able t o move on the gin and cause burrs on t h e hole. These burrs m a y make removing the propeller difficult. To overcome this problem, t h e propeller hub has two grooves running t h e full length of t h e hub. Hold t h e shaf t f rcm turninet, a d then r o t a t e the propeller 1/4 turn t o position t h e grooves over t h e drive pin holes. The propeller can then he pulle6 s t ra ight off t h e shaft . Af te r t h e propeller bas been

Propeller installation with a washer and shear pin. A cotter pin, not shown, is installed through the propeller nut. This type of installation is the most popular.

removed, f i le the drive pin holes on both sides of t h e shaf t t o rewove t h e burrs.

Standard Propeller Installation The propeller s b a f t s h o d ? be coatecl

with Perfect Seal, and thew t h e propeller installecl. Af te r t h e propeller is on t h e shaf t , install t h e washer, shear pin, prapel- l e r nut, and finally a NEW co t te r pin. Con- n e c t the high-tension leads to the s ~ a r k plueis.

The cotter pin, not shown, and propeller nut have been removed. The shear pin is removed next, and then the propeller is ready t o be llpulled".

is installed onto the shaft, foll&ed by the thrust washer, propeller nut, and finally the shear pin through the nut.

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LOWER UNIT 10- 1 1

Propeller With Exhaust Removal Fi r s t , d i sconnect t h e high tension leads

t o t h e spark plugs t o p reven t acc iden ta l engine s t a r t . Next , pull t h e c o t t e r pin f rom t h e propeller nut. Wedge a p iece of wood be tween o n e of t h e propeller blades and t h e cav i t a t ion p l a t e t o p reven t t h e propeller f rom rotat ing. Back off t h e c a s t e l l a t e d propeller nut . Pull t h e propeller s t r a i g h t off t h e shaf t . I t may b e necessary t o carefu l ly t a p on t h e f r o n t s ide of t h e propeller wi th a s o f t headed ma l l e t t o jar i t loose, If t h e propeller appea r s t o be "frozen" t o t h e sha f t , s e e C h a p t e r 8 fo r spec ia l removal instruct ions. The th rus t washer does n o t have t o b e removed unless i t a p p e a r s damaged.

Propeller Exhaust Installation Fi r s t , check t o b e s u r e t h e high tension

leads have been d isconnected f rorn t h e s p a r k plugs t o prevent acc identa l engine s t a r t . Install t h e t h r u s t washer o n t o t h e propeller sha f t , if i t was removed. C o a t t h e spl ines of t h e dr iveshaf t with anti- corrosion lubri- can t . The lubr icant MUST b e applie6 t o t h e s h a f t EACH t i m e t h e propeller is installec" to prevent i t f rom "freezing" t o t h e shaf t .

Applying gasket sealer to the shaft splines prior to installing a "prop exhausVf propeller.

The propeller m a y " freeze" t o t h e s h a f t in a shor t t i m e in f r e s h w a t e r and much sooner in salt water .

Sl ide t h e propeller on to t h e s h a f t wi th t h e splines on t h e s h a f t indexed wi tb t h e spl ines in t h e propeller hub. F o r c e t h e Dro- pel ler on to t h e s h a f t until i t is t ight aga ins t t h e th rus t washer. If t h e propeller canno t b e moved t ight aga ins t t h e t h r u s t washer , t h e spl ines in t h e hub o r on t h e s h a f t a r e d i r ty and mus t b e cleaned.

A f t e r t h e propeller i s in p lace , wedge a p iece of wood be tween o n e of t h e blades a n d t h e cav i t a t ion p l a t e t o p reven t t h e propeller f r o m ro ta t ing . Instal l t h e splined washer wi th t h e spl ines indexed wi th t h e splines on t h e propeller sha f t . Thread t h e cas t e l l a t ed nu t o n t o t h e s h a f t and bring i t up t i gh t aga ins t t h e propeller. In se r t t h e c o t t e r pin through t h e nu t and propeller sha f t . If t h e hole in t h e s h a f t does n o t al ign wi th one of t h e holes in t h e nut , TIGHTEN t h e nu t unti l one of t h e holes i s aligned. NEVER loosen t h e nu t t o align t h e holes. Instal l t h e c o t t e r pin, remove t h e p iece of wood, and c o n n e c t t h e high tension l eads t o t h e spark plugs.

OMC anti-corrosion lubricant that should be applied to the propeller shqft before the propeller is installed. Such lubricant on the shaft will not only fight corrosion, but assist in propeller removal.

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1 0- 1 2 MAINTENANCE

Draining Lower Unit Remove t h e VENT plug just above t h e

anti-cavitation p la te FIRST, and then t h e FILL plug from the gear housing. NEVER remove t h e vent or filler plug when t h e drive unit is hot. Expanded lubricant would b e released through t h e plug hole. CRITICAL WORD

The Phillips screw securing t h e sh i f t fork in place is located very close t o t h e drain plug. If the wrong screw is removed, BAD NEWS, VERY BAD NEWS! The lower unit will have t o be disassembled in order t o re turn t h e shi f t fork t o i t s proper location.

Allow t h e gear lubricant t o drain into t h e container. As t h e lubricant drains, c a t c h some with your fingers, from time-to- t ime, and rub i t between your thumb and finger t o determine if any metal part icles a r e present. If metal is de tec ted in t h e lubricant, t h e unit must be completely disassembled, inspected, and t h e damaged par t s replaced.

If t h e lubricant appears milky brown, o r if large amounts of lubricant must be added to bring t h e lubricant up t o t h e full mark, a thorough check should b e made t o determine t h e cause of t h e loss.

D ~ f n i n g lubricant from a mechanical shift lower unit with propeller exhaust system. TAKE CARE not to remove the Phillips screw by mistake. This screw secures the shtft fork in posiff on.

Late model lower unit &ain plugs have a magnet to attract metal .particles in the lubricant before they cause damage. I f an unusual amount of particles are discovered, disassembly and search should be made to discover the source.

Filling Lower Unit See t h e Appendix fo r lower unit capaci-

ties. Add only OMC lower unit lubricant. Lubricant, for engines covered in th is manual, is as follows: Use ONLY Type C , now known as Premium Blend Gearcase Lube, in all e l ec t r i c shi f t models. Use OMC Hi-Vis Gearcase Lube for all other engines. NEVER use regular automotive- type grease in t h e lower unit because i t expands and foams too much. Lower units do not have provisions t o accommodate such expansion.

Draining the lubricant from a lower unit equipped with a standard exhaust system. As the lubricant is drained a check should be made for water contamina- ffon, milky color, and for metal particles, as explained in the text.

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LOWER UNIT 10-13

T h e g e a r c a s e l ub r i can t should b e chang- e d t w i c e e a c h yea r o r season. If t h e lubri- c a n t i s purchased in a l a rge con ta ine r , s ay t h e one-gallon s ize , a cons iderable sav ings c a n b e real ized. What is n o t used th i s season will b e used in t h e n e x t o r t h e o n e a f t e r . A sma l l inexpensive pump c a n b e purchased t o move t h e l ub r i can t f r o m t h e l a r g e con ta ine r t o t h e lower unit.

Posi t ion t h e dr ive uni t approximate ly ve r t i ca l and wi thout a l i s t t o e i t h e r p o r t o r s ta rboard . In se r t t h e l ub r i can t t u b e i n t o t h e FILLIDRAIN hole a t t h e b o t t o m plug hole, and in j ec t l ub r i can t unt i l t h e e x c e s s begins t o c o m e o u t t h e VENT hole. Ins ta l l t h e VENT and FILL plugs wi th NEW gaskets .

A f t e r t h e lower plug has been ins ta l led , rernove t h e v e n t plug aga in a n d using a squi r t- type o i l c an , add lub r i can t th rough th is v e n t hole. A squi r t- type oi l c a n m u s t b e used t o al low t h e t r apped a i r in t h e lower uni t t o e s c a p e at t h e s a m e t i m e t h e f ina l l ub r i can t i s added. O n c e t h e uni t i s comple te ly full , ins ta l l and t i gh t en t h e v e n t plug.

Filling a standard lower unit with lubricant. The lower unit should be "topped off" as outlined in the tex t .

The two types of lubricant used for Johnson/Evin- rude engines. The text clearly identifies the lubricant t o be used on the different model enaines covered in this manual.

- Filling a "prop exhaustu lower unit with lubricant.

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10- 14 MAINTENANCE

Check t o be sure t h e vent and drain plug gaskets a r e properly positioned t o prevent water from entering t h e housing.

10-9 BATTERY STORAGE

Remove t h e bat ter ies from the boat and keep them charged during t h e s torage period. Clean t h e bat ter ies thoroughly of any dirt or corrosion, and then charge them t o full specific gravity reading. After they a r e fully charged, s t o r e them in a clean cool dry place where they will not be damaged or knocked over.

In cold climates, EXERCISE CARE in selecting t h e ba t t e ry s torage area. A fully- charged ba t t e ry will f r e e z e at about 60 degrees below zero. A discharged bat tery , a lmost dead, will have ice forming at about 19 degrees above zero.

10-10 PRESEASON PREPARATION

Satisfactory performance and maximum enjoyment can be realized if a l i t t l e t i m e is spent in preparing t h e engine fo r service at t h e beginning of t h e season. Assuming t h e unit has been properly stored, as outlined in Section 10-7, a minimum amount of work is required t o prepare t h e engine for use.

The following s teps outl ine an adequate and logical sequence of tasks t o b e perform- e d before using t h e engine t h e f i r s t t i m e in a new season.

1- Lubricate t h e engine according t o t h e manufacturer's recommendations. Remove, clean, inspect, adjust, and install t h e spark

NEVER s t o r e t h e ba t t e ry with anything on t o p of i t or cover t h e ba t t e ry in such a manner as t o prevent a i r f rom circulating around t h e filler caps. All bat ter ies , both new and old, will discharge during periods of storage, more s o if they a r e hot than if they remain cool. Therefore, t h e e lect rolyte level and t h e specific gravity should be checked at regular intervals. A drop in t h e specific gravity reading is cause t o charge them back to a full reading.

Using a squirt can to "top offv the lubricant in the lower unit, as explained in the text.

A check of the electrolyte in the battery should be on ths maintenance schedule for any boat. A hydrometer reading of 1.300 or in the green band, indicqtes the battery is in satisfactory condition. If the reading is 1.150 or in the red band, the battery needs to be chmged. Observe the six safety points given in the text, when using a hydrometer.

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PRESEASON PREPARATION 10- 15

Neoprene sealer used to waterproof electrical connections. The sealer is almost a lfMUSTtf on screwtype connections d a terminal board.

plugs with new gaskets if they require gaskets. Make a thorough check of t h e ignition system, including t h e wiring, and t h e bat- t e r y e lect rolyte level and charge.

2- If a built-in fuel tank is installed, t a k e t i m e t o check t h e tank and all of t h e fuel lines, fittings, couplings, valves, and t h e flexible t ank fill and vent. Turn on t h e fuel supply valve at t h e tank. If t h e fuel was not drained at the end of t h e previous season, make a careful inspection for gum formation. If a six-gallon fuel tank is used, t a k e t h e s a m e action. When gasoline is allowed t o stand for long periods of t ime, part icularly in t h e presence of copper, gummy deposits form. This gum can clog t h e fi l ters, lines, and passageways in t h e carburetor. See Chapter 4, Fuel System Service.

3- Check t h e oil level in t h e lower unit

Today, numerous type spark plugs are availaMe fur service. ALWAYS check with the local OMC dealer t o be sure you are pwchasing the proper plugs for the engine being serviced.

by f i r s t removing t h e vent screw on t h e port side just above t h e anti-cavitation plate. Insert a short piece of wire into t h e hole and check t h e level. Fill t h e lower unit according t o procedures outlined in Section 10-8.

4- Check and replace any defect ive wa- t e r hoses. Check to be sure t h e connections do not leak. Replace any spring-type hose clamps, if they have los t thei r tension, o r if t h e y have distorted t h e water hose, with band-type clamps.

5- The engine can be run with t h e lower unit in water t o flush it. If th is is not practical , a flush a t t achment may be used, provided t h e engine is run ONLY at idle speed -- a VERY LOW rpm. This unit is a t t ached t o t h e water pick-up in t h e lower unit. At tach a garden hose, turn on t h e water , allow t h e water t o flow in to t h e engine for awhile, and then run t h e engine.

Correct and incorrect spark plug installation. The plugs MUST be installed properly and tightened to the proper torque value for sd i s f actory performance.

Typical fuel hose with squeeze bulb. The hose and bulb must remain flexible. The O-rings MUST prevent fuel leakage.

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10- 1 6 MAINTENANCE

Method of removing an O-ring from a connector. The connector is also replaceable.

CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is r m to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump.

Check t h e idle exhaust port for wa te r discharge. A t idle speed, only a f ine w a t e r

OMC lubricants used on all Johnson/Evinrude outboard engines.

Using a punch to depress the check ball while installing an oiled "Wring.

mist will be visible. Check for leaks. Check operation of t h e thermostat . Af te r t h e engine has reached operating tempera- tu re , t ighten t h e cylinder head bolts t o t h e torque value given in t h e Specifications in t h e Appendix.

6- Check t h e e lect rolyte level in t h e ba t t e r i es and t h e voltage for a full charge. Clean and inspect t h e ba t t e ry terminals and cable connections. TAKE TIME t o check t h e polarity, if a new ba t t e ry is being installed. Cover t h e cable connections with

Adding OMC oil to the fuel. Only a high grade oil should be added to the fuel to ensure proper lubrication.

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PRESEASON PREPAR ATlON 10- 1 7

Using a squirt can to "top off" the lubricant in the lower unit, as explained in the text.

grease or special protective compound as a prevention t o corrosion formation. Check all electrical wiring and grounding circuits.

7- Check all electrical par ts on t h e engine and electrical f ix ture or connections in

The battery should be located near the engine and the lower portions Of the inside the well secured to prevent even the slightest amount of

A poor, Or type connec- mowment. The battery, including the terminals, MUST tion, could cause ignition of an explosive be kept clean for maximum performance.

Testing a 75 hp engine in a test tank. Stcch testing after adjustments, ensures the owner of maximum per- f ormance from his unit.

An OMC degreaser widely used for cleaning the boat and engine.

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10- 18 MAINTENANCE

fuel vapor atmosphere. Rubber caps help A COUPLE FINAL WORDS keep spark insulators clean and reduce t h e Before putt ing the boat in the water , possibility of arcing. Star ters , generators, TAKE TIME t o VERIFY t h e drain plugs a r e distributors, al ternators, e l ec t r i c fuel installed. Countless number of boating ex- pumps, voltage regulators, and high-tension cursions have had a very sad beginning be- wiring harnesses should be of a marine type cause t h e boat was eased into the wa te r tha t cannot cause a n explosive mixture t o only t o have water begin filling the inside. ignite.

KEY SWITCH BOW

L l GHT /

PAN EL

/ LIGHT STERN

BAITERY L l GHT

WIKING HARNESS

JUNCTION TO ENGINE BOX

SW l TCH

Frincipke dect~icah ~ c i v t ~ r e~ tMrs . c ~ ' P w ~ L ! ! eFec" ~t tFe start of each season.

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TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS A-3

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS All torque values given in Inch/pounds.

Divide by 12 for foot/pounds.

HORSEPOWER & MODEL FLYWHEEL CONNECTING MEAD CRANKCASE NUT ROD BOLT BOLT UPPER & CENTER

LOWER

58 H-"R 1958 & 1959

55 PFP 1968

55 PJ? 1969

60 Y P 1964 th ru 1967

60 EP IQ70

60 PP 1971

65 f-?P 1968

75 P P 1?60 & 15'61

75 FP 1962 thru 1965

80 K P 1966

80 HP 1067

85 HJ? 1968

85 lFaP 1969 thru 1972

90 FP 6964 & 1965

100 HP 1940 & 1967

100 P P 1968

1QOPP 1971 & 1972

115 EP 196'3 & 15'70

125 IlP 1971 & 1972

STANDARD BOLTS AND NUTS Torque value for special bolts may vary.

Bolt In./Lbs F ~ / L ~ S Newton Size Meters

No. 6 No. 8

No. 10 No. 12

1/4" 5/16" 318"

71 16"

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A-4 APPENDIX

ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS SEE GENERAL AND SPECIAL NOTES APPENDIX PAGE A-6 AND A-7

JOHNSON MODEL EVINRUDE MODEL NO. HP CU IN W 0 T BORE CY L. DISPL. RPM INCH

1%4 1964 VX- 10s 60432-52 V4 60 70.7 4500 3.00

V4S; V4A-16 75432-52; 75482-92 V4 75 89.5 4500 3.37 V4M; V4ML-10s 90482-92 V4 90 89.5 4500 3.37

1%5 VX; VXH-11C

V4S; V4H; V4A-17s

1%6 VX; VXH--12

V4S; V4SA-18 V4ML-12

l%7 VX; VXO; VXH; VXHL-13 V4S; V4SL; V4A; V4AL-19

V4TL- 13

1%8 TR; TRL-10

VX; VXL; VXH; VXHL-14 V4S; V4SL; V4A; V4AL-20

V4TL-14

NOTE: See Appendix Page A-7 for primary pickup location, primary pickup adjustment note, ignition type, and carburetor type called out in this table.

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ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS A-5

AND TUNE-UP ADJUSTMENTS SEE GENERAL AND SPECIAL NOTES APPENDIX PAGE A-6 AND A-7

STROKE SPARK POINT O R TIMING PRIheARY IGNITION CARB. INCH PLUG SENSOR PICKUP TYPE TYPE

TYPE G A P NOTE

1967 2.50 J4J .020 --- 1 2.50 J4J .020 --- 1 2.50 V40FFX .028 4500 MARK 2

1968 2.34 L76V .O 10 4500 MARK 3 2.50 L76V .010 4500 MARK 1 2.50 L76V .010 4500 MARK 1 2.50 V40FFX .028 4500 MARK 2

NOTE: See Appendix Page A-7 for primary pickup location, primary pickup adjustment note, ignition type, and carburetor type called ou t in this table.

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A-6 APPENDIX

ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS SEE GENERAL AND SPECIAL NOTES BELOW

JOHNSON MODEL EVINRUDE MODEL NO. HP CU IN W 0 T BORE CYL. DISPL. RPM INCH

GENERAL NOTES

In-line engines -- top cylinder is No. 1

V-4 engines -- starboard bank -- No. 1 top, No.3 lower. Por t bank - No. 2 top, No. 4 lower.

All spark plugs set at ,030".

SPECIAL NOTES

Primary Pickup 1- P o r t S i d e 2- Top 3- Starboard Side

Ignition Type I Distributor Magneto I1 Distributor Ba t te ry Ignition I11 Capacitor Discharge (CD) with Sensor IV C a ~ a c i t o r Discharge (CD) with Breaker Points

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ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS A-7

AND TUNE-UP ADJUSTMENTS SEE GENERAL AND SPECIAL NOTES BELOW

5TROKE SPARK POINT O R TIhnING PRIMARY IGNITION CARR. INCH PLUG SENSOR PICKUP TYPE TYPE

T Y P E G A P NOTE

1969 2.34 L76V .O 10 4500 MARK 2.59 L76V .O 10 4500 MARK 2.59 L76V .028 4500 MARK

1970 2.34 L76V .010 4500 22' 2.59 L76V .010 4500 MARK 2.59 L76V .028 4500 MAR.K

1972 Covered in Volume TV Manual 2.59 L76V .010 4506 28: 2.59 L76V .028 4500 280 2.59 L76V ,028 4500 26

SPECIAL NOTES

C a r b u r e t o r Type

IVA

IVB

IV 111 IV IVA I11 IV A

IV 111 IV IVA IV IV A 111 IVA

IV IVB 111 IVR 111 IV B

Downdraft, double barrel with high-speed and low-speed needle valves. Downdraft, double barrel with f ixed high-speed orifice and low-speed needle val ve . Frontdraf t , four barrel with fixed high-speed orif ice and low-speed needle valve . Frontdraf t, single barrel with f ixed high-speed orif ice and low-speed needle valve. Three carburetors per engine. Frontdraft , double barrel with low-speed needle valve and fixed high-speed orifice. Two carburetors per engine. Frontdraft , double barrel with f ixed low-speed and high-speed orifices. Two carburetors per engine.

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A-8 APPENDIX

POWERHEAD SPECIFICATIONS

HP YEAR STROKE BORE BORE BORE PISTON TO CYL STD OVERSIZE OVERSIZE CLEARANCE

MAX MIN

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POWERHEAD SPECIFICATIONS A-9

POWERHEAD SPECIFICATIONS

HP YEAR PISTON RING GROOVE RING WIDTH RING WIDTH PISTON RING GAP UP'R & CTR LOWER

M A X MIN M A X MIn M A X MIN M A X MIN

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A- I0 APPENDIX

GEAR OIL CAPACITIES

ENGINE MODEL CAPACITY SIZE OUNCES

50 hp

55 hp

60 hp HD

60 hp

60 hp

65 hp ED

65 hp

75 hp

75 hp Elec

75 hp k-rD

80 hp Elec

80 hp

85 hp Elec

85 hp

85 hp

90 hp

100 hp

100 hp

100 hp

115 hp

125 hp

MIXTURE 1- For all engines in this manual

1971-1 981 use 50-1 oil mixture.

2- Recommendation is 116 pint of oil per gallon of pasoline (50:l) for engine break-in ONLY if OF4C TQ:1 lubricant is used. e the rwise , use another BIA cer t i f ied TC-W oil Iubri- cant; mix 50:l.

+- NEVER use: automotive oils, premixed fuel of unknown oil quantity , or premixed fuel richer than 5Q:l.

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ELECTRICAL SPECIFICATIONS A l l

STARTER MOTOR SPECIFICATIONS Brush Spring Armature

Model Tension End Play Max. Min. Max. Min. Number (Ounces) Qnches) Volts Amperes RPM Volts Amperes Lbs. Ft.

MDO-0 42-66 0.005 min. 10.0 38 10,000 4.0 170 1.5

MDW-0 42-66 -010--035 10.0 26 8,500 4.0 160 2.1

MDW-1 42-66 .005 min. 10.0 26 8,500 4.0 160 2.1

Pinion position, 1-25/32 1/16 inches from face of mounting flange t o edge of pinion.

MDO-4002M Use Test MDO-0 CCW Rotation

MDO-4003M Use Test MDO-1 CW Rotation

MDW-4001M Use Test MDW-0 CW Rotation

MD W-4002M Use Test MDW-1 CCW Rotation

REGULATOR GENERATOR SPECIFICATIONS SPECIFICATIONS

Par t No. VRU-610lA System Voltage 12 Ground Polarity Negative Armature Air Gap

Circuit Breaker .03 1 - . O N in. Voltage Reg. .048-.052 in.

Current Regulator .048-.052 in. Current Regulator

Setting Amps 9.0- 1 1.0

CB Shunt Winding 107 t o 121 ohms VR Winding 43.7 t o 49.3 ohms

Circuit Breaker Close Volts 12.6-13.6 Open Amps

Discharge 3.0-5.0

Regulator (Hot1 Operating Voltages Tolerance - .4 Volt

5 0 ' ~ 15.2 Volts 8 o 0 ~ 15.0 Volts llOoF 14.8 Volts 140 F 14.6 Volts

These figures a re for a unit in ~ o r m a l operation while charging a t 112 rated output or with 1/4 ohm fixed resistor in series with t h e battery.

Generator

Rot. D.E. Ground Polarity Brush Spring

Tension

Field Coil Draw Volts Amps

Monitoring Draw Volts Amps

Generator Output Volts Max. Amps Max. RPM -

C Negative

12-24 oz,

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RED DKGREEN

WrrE TAN

BLACK REDFNHITE STRIPE

BL(;CKING DIODE

[3 SHIFT CABLE

n/ COElNECTOR TO REMOTE C-L

\O -'- RED

18 GA

LT. BLUE 18GA

1 LT GREEN 18 GA TACH LEAD

RED 8 GRAY 18Gk GREEN STRIPE ,, 18GA

--

MOTOR

--ZOAMP - FUSEHOLDER

________..~.._._....-.

BLUE LT GREEN

GREY REffiREEN STRIPE

\

TAN

TACHOMETER I GROUND 7

! BLACK

%'-. 18 M I

I

I / I

I TEMPERATURE ' WARNINOUGHT j

8

A INDICATING L m

IGNrTlON ON : POINTS I---------., , BLACK&

; WHITESTRIPE 18 GA

y TEMP .................................................. I , SWrrCH

I GROUND TO

AMPLIFIER 1 I ASSEMBLY

.

12 VOLT BAlTERY

. . . - . . . .

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TACHOMETER GROUND ,-

BLACK , 18GA

BLOCKING I\

TACH LEAD

FUSEHOLDER

DIODE

MOTOR

/ %f

BLACK 18%

GROUND TO POWERHEAD

/

t

--7----1 /

BLACK & / I

WHITE STRIPE I 8 M

TEMP .. . S W C H

GROUND TO

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I 1 I ,

'\ MOTOR CABLE,

', 4M' 4M' 16 G4. - 1 4 M - 18GA - 18M. 1 6 M -_ 14611

JUNCTION BOX EASE

JUNCTKN BOX COVER

s g ? '~4 . GROUNDTO

POWERHEAD

GROUND TO

MOTOR COMR

CHOKE SOLENOID

GWERATOR

CONNECTOR

I

12 VOLT MTTERY

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NPUFIE~ ASSEMBLY

I 8 DARK BLUE

I -----..--.-----------. -.-.-- T \

COIL 6 YOKE ASSY

ELECTRICAL COMPONEN~S 6 B R A C W ASSEMBLY

GROUND TO POWERHEAD

--

W o k BLACK

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WIRE IDENTIFICATION A- 19

Wim Identification - 75 hp V4 - with magneto, generator, and standard shift - 1961

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JUNCTION BOX COVER

JUNCTION BOX BASE

\

TEMPERATURE WARNING AMMETER 16GA STARTER

LIGHT \ \ SWlTCH

STARTER ' MOTOR

GROUND TO LOWER

PAN

,/

/ wlk M B . CONNECTOR

SOLENOID

u ., GENERATOR

GROUND TO POWERHEAD

BLACK WlTH --BLACK SLEEVE

PLATE COVERING

MAGNETO J\ 12 VOLT BATTERY

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I B G A RED

', STARTER

OR

SHIFT CABLE

TACHOMETER LEAD

B G A BLACK

/ 8- RED

CRWND TO mwww

ASSEMBLY

?: 1

THERMO S'mTCH

ASSY

..-2 AMPLIFIER 'I

SOLENOID

12 VOLT BATTERY

/ AMP., RECT 6 COIL ( I S AMP)

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R M R S E

/ MlPUFlER ASSEMBLY

STARTER M O T O R 1

SOLENOID ASSEMBLY

RECTIFIER (L LEAD ASSY

0 I ~ G A Y E L L O W B ~ ORAY STRIPE \

GRAY WRPLE

1

18Ok j 0 BLUE I

ASSEMBLY BLACK (L wtim - -

STRIPE

GRWND TO POWERHUU)

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RED m DARK GREEN mm TAN BLACK m [70 REDlWHm STRIPE

UGHT BLUE m m UGHTGREEN GRAY 1; m BROW 18 GA

RED

",

SHIFT CABLE

16 GA RED/WHITE STRIPE CONNECTOR TO

I B & W ~ ~ REMOTE CONTROL

CLUTCH COILS IN GEARCASE

I I

&\ , STATOR

ASSEMBLY

BG.4 BLACK

/'

BOA. RED

J

DISTRIBUTOR ASSEMBLY

WPULSE (PACK)

\ PULSE

TRANSFORMER ASSEMBLY

©eblue-dist 2007

STARTER MOTOR ASSEMBLY \ SOLENOID GROUND TO

r---- - ASSEMBLY POWERHEAD 1

+$ RED6 bA. I

ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS & BRACKET ASSEMBLY

/ C L I ~ P E R TERMINAL PURPLE &WHITE GROUND TO/ CIRCUIT ASSEMBLY BLOCK STRIPE 18 GA. POWERHEAD

©eblue-dist 2007

johnson 1958-72

Documents

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v4 engine removal

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