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  • 8/10/2019 Journal of Social History 1990 Schmidt 153 7

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  • 8/10/2019 Journal of Social History 1990 Schmidt 153 7

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    154

    journal of social history

    Massgoods represent culture, not because theyare merely there as the environment

    within which we operate, but because they are an integral part of that process of

    objectification bywhich we create ourselves as an industrial society: our identities,

    our social affiliations, our lived everyday practices. (p. 215)

    The second part, Material Culture , carries

    the

    message

    that the

    medium of

    objectification is important, that

    physical artefacts have certain properties

    and

    tendencies which, in an age of rapidly increasing material culture, ought to be

    investigated in their own right (129). Such understanding will enable us to

    perceive the integrative role that

    the

    artifact performs in culture and

    human

    relations. Again,

    the

    historianwill find great richness here, once

    he

    has separated

    original ideas from distracting verbiage.

    Mass Consumption focuses on

    the

    application of these notions, specifically

    in Britain. Part is historical, some ideological, but all are directed toward a theory

    of consumption.

    The

    historiographical rundown of consumption - Braudel,

    McKendrick, Brewer, Plumb, Thirsk, and others - will interest historians. The

    author draws on Baudrillard, Bourdieu, Douglas and Isherwood, Foucault, Gid

    dens, Goffman, Piaget,

    and

    many others to substantiate his theory. Interdiscipli

    nary historians will appreciate the wealth of ideas in this slim volume.

    Appadurai s anthology is multidisciplinary - an ethnohistorical dialogue be

    tween anthropologists

    and

    social historians - produced by

    the

    Ethno-history

    Program of

    the

    University ofPennsylvania. Despite a lack of symmetry in subject

    matter, these essaysare uniformly ofhighquality and convey important ideas

    that

    will, in

    tum

    evoke

    other

    ideas. This work is an object lesson in the value of

    interdisciplinary approaches to disciplinary research.

    Under

    the rubric of Toward an Anthropology ofThings Appadurai provides

    a superbly critical introduction, and Igor Kopytoff writes thoughtfully

    on

    The

    Cultural Biography ofThings: Commoditization asProcess, which distinguishes

    between commodities and singular things ofcultural and individual value in an

    homogeneous society.

    Under

    Exchange, Consumption, and Display William

    Davenport distinguishes between

    the

    material and economic and the mystical

    and spiritual values of East Solomon islanders. Alfred Gell, in

    the

    same section,

    focuses on the symbolic dimensions of consumption by

    the

    Muria Gonds in

    Madhya Pradesh, India. In so doing he attempts to indicate the complex inter

    action between aspects of peasant societies

    that

    are

    not

    usually considered

    conjointly:

    the

    economic transformationbrought about by technological change

    on the one hand, and on

    the other the

    symbolic order that conventional econom

    icsassigns to the categoryof tastes. (p. 136) Bothare highly instructive towestern

    historians, Marxist and non-Marxist alike, who are conditioned to regard things

    as commodities.

    ColinRenfrew

    and

    PatrickGeary discourse on objects of Prestige, Commerno

    ration, and Value ; Brian Spooner and LeeV. Cassanelliwrite under the heading

    of Production Regimes

    and the

    Sociology of Demand.

    Renfrew in Varna and

    the

    Emergence of

    Wealth

    in Prehistoric Europe cites

    gold objects discovered by archeologists to argue that adoption of new products,

    not

    just new technical processes for production, characterize a society. He

    believes

    that

    three variables mutually enhance

    the

    other: a developing systemof

    production and exchange;

    the

    circulationofgood ofprime value (especially in the

    early stages); and

    the

    emergence of prominent social thinking. (163)

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    REVIEWS 155

    Geary, in SacredCommodities:

    the

    Circulation ofMedieval Relics points to

    the limits of a commodity theory of goods,

    the

    view

    that

    things have value only

    for exchange

    and

    circulation. What of a portion of a saint s body? Admittedly,

    such relics were sold, exchanged, conveyed as gifts,

    and

    even stolen. In showing

    how such personal commodities as religious relics elucidated something of

    the

    complex values of medieval society (188), Geary poses nagging questions for

    those who thought they had

    the

    answers about things.

    What

    of value equiva

    lences of relics, relative values ofdifferent relics, the relative importanceof relics

    given as gifts as opposed to those stolen or sold, and, finally,

    the

    acceptance of

    these objects as valuable within

    the

    broader, lay society of

    the

    regions into which

    they were introduce ? (189)

    Spooner suggests in Weavers

    and

    Dealers

    that the

    history oforiental carpets

    is inseparable from

    the

    society

    that

    produced

    them and that

    a persistent western

    enchantment

    with oriental carpets tells us

    much

    about ourselves, our culture

    and

    history. They [carpets] have

    their

    own dynamic

    and

    historical continuity,

    and

    their relationship with any other cultural or social form is likely to be dialectical

    rather than unidirectional (231).

    Cassenelli s Qat: Changes in

    the

    Production

    and

    ConsumptionofaQuasilegal

    Commodity in Northeast Africa examines

    the

    consumption, distribution, poli

    tics, and legal status ofqat, amild stimulant, to whicha variety ofbeneficial effects

    have

    been

    ascribed. Beyond these, qat promotes social intercourse

    through

    chewing sessions, thus making it a facilitator of new modes of interaction.

    Besides being a source of wealth

    and

    employment,

    qat

    has become a vehicle by

    which political

    and

    social issues are vented (256).

    Under

    Historical Transformations

    and

    Commodity Codes William Reddy

    writes about

    The

    Structure ofaCulturalCrisis:

    Thinking

    About

    Cloth

    in France

    before and after

    the

    Revolution and

    C A

    Baylyabout

    The

    Origins ofSwadeshi

    (Home Industry):

    Cloth

    and Indian society, 1700,1930.

    Reddy will astound some

    modem

    historians by suggesting

    that the

    French

    Revolution be considered in commodity terms. He subscribes to

    the

    thesis of

    the

    Revolution as a crisis in culture, which he documents by noting changing

    perceptions of things. Reddy believes

    that

    a century before

    the

    Revolution the

    thinking about cloth encapsulated

    the

    guild mentality; by

    the

    late eighteenth

    century thought about such matters was prevailingly phvsiocratic and reformist.

    French society

    on the

    eve of

    the

    Revolution, he says, had a centuries-old, slowly

    evolved set of practices and institutions

    that

    had

    been

    brought into question in

    the most fundamental way (280,281). Like Miller, he draws

    attention

    to the

    necessary intimacy

    that

    alwayssubsistsbetween social relationships and things

    (282).

    Baylyshows how

    cloth

    -

    the

    British import

    and the

    handicraft industry which

    it destroyed in India - became, through Gandhi s call to support home industry,

    the

    rallying cry of Indian nationalism. His belief

    that the

    history of

    cloth

    in

    India...shows how things could retain

    the

    quality of

    the

    peoplewho fashioned and

    exchanged them, even in a fully monetized economy (286), illustrates superbly

    the

    tension between commoditi-zation and singularization that denies

    the

    Marxian

    notion

    of the fetishness of things.

    This attempt to show

    the

    interactionofcultural anthropology, archeology, and

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    156

    journal of social history

    social history is markedly successful, for there is not a weak essay

    either

    in

    substance ormethod in the lot. The historianwill acquire new insights that make

    things significantly more meaningful than the discipline has generally allowed

    them

    to be. Above all, this work epitomizes

    the

    value of interdisciplinary history

    and exemplifies the effectiveness of Miller s dicta when applied to the stuff of

    history.

    Asa Briggs Victorian Things completes his trilogy, which includes Victorian

    eople

    and Victorian ities This work on material culture reveals

    both the depth

    and breadth of his knowledge of Victoriana. is history at its best - largely

    descriptive - for he takes his cue less from Marc Bloch and Fernand Braudel

    than

    from Sigfried Giedion whomhe quotes: Thetrue critique of any age

    can

    only be

    taken from the testimony of

    that

    age....the furniture of daily life...all things we

    look at hourly without seeing (28).

    Briggs work ispassage through an exhibition. Indeed, his

    TheGreat

    Victorian

    Collection wings us through Crystal Palace witnessing at once the marvels of

    that

    age and eavesdropping on organizers, promoters, and critics of that great

    show. But we do

    not stop here. There are others -

    the

    Manchester Exhibition of

    1857, the building of the Victorian and Albert, and even the xposition Tricoul-

    eurefor which Gaston Eiffel built a tower.

    A chapter on

    the

    Philosophy of

    the

    Eye allows a peak into theworld of vision

    - spectacles, cameras, photographs, telescopes, microscopes, and even early

    cinema. Images of Fame tells how heroes were remembered through statues

    Albert was everywhere - wax, and through paper records. Commemorative

    artifacts - pictorial prints and transfer images on pottery, images in pottery, coins,

    medals, and stamps, to name a few - were hallmarks of

    the

    age. Parian ware and

    the humbler Staffordshires , hardly collectors items in Victorian days, made

    pottery a medium for the Victorian message.

    Chapters on TheWonders of

    Common

    Things, Hearth and Home, Hats,

    Caps, and Bonnets, Carboniferous Capitalism : Coal, Iron, and Paper, and

    Stamps - Used and Unused covered things from coal

    and

    matches to

    telephones and typewriters. The list is endless.

    Briggs, unburdened with theory and jargon, has indeed presented his own

    portrait of an age bydrawing

    attention the

    things of Vic toriana. His mastery

    of subject and effortless style make this a minor masterpiece which will appeal to

    a wider reading public beyond the specialists.

    All of these works - whether alien in methodology, remote in subject matter,

    or endlessly fascinating as with Briggs - are an instructive lot for

    the

    historian.

    They represent a kind of progression for

    the

    social historian- from Miller s highly

    theoretical anthropological essayand the ethnohistorical anthology by Appadu

    rai to Asa Briggs sweeping and erudite history.

    One

    final point. As one who has written on artifacts and presently writes legal

    history, I read these works, motivated by the notion that legal historians should

    perceive things beyond narrowly legal perspectives. Ifat times I wondered why

    I should labor so long on Miller to extract the insights beneath his heavy layer of

    jargon, why I should spend time reading about remote peoples and places in

    Appadurai, or why, even, I should try to assimulate

    the

    mass of detail in riggs-

    I now know why. These three works in their totality provide a combination of

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    REVIEWS

    157

    theory, original thought, and sound an d deep scholarship that define property in

    new ways.

    University

    of

    Bridgeport

    School of Law

    ENDNOTE

    Albert

    Schmidt

    1. Lorna Weatherill, Consumer behaviour and social status in England, 1660-1750, Continuity and

    Change 1 (2) (1986): 204-205.

    Concepts

    of

    Cleanliness

    Changing

    ttitudes

    in

    France

    Since

    the

    Middle

    ges

    ByGeorges Vigarello, trans. by Jean Birrell (New York: Cambridge

    University Press, 1988. 239 pp. 39.50).

    Here is

    another

    book

    that

    will contribute to our knowledge of

    human

    filth, sewer

    disposal, vermin an d smells. Georges Vigarello, working essentially with printed

    sources, covers vast grounds; he cites th e most amazing titles, several ofwhichdate

    back to

    the

    late Middle Ages, on human anatomy, child care, cosmetics, dress,

    bathing, bathrooms an d ventilators.

    To

    the nnalesschool' wemust now add

    the

    'odours school' whose founding fathers, Lucien Febvre and Louis Chevalier,

    have

    acquired such worthy heirs as lainCorbin, Piero Camporesi and nickLe

    Guerier. This particular contribution will tell you what parts of

    th e

    Frenchman's

    body were washed and when, why Louis XIV took only two baths in his lifetime

    and how many bathtubs (approximately) existed in Paris during

    the

    Consulate.

    Professor Vigarello's main thesis isfairly simple: in th e last half millennium th e

    concept of cleanliness (which, he is at pains to point out, does not mean washing)

    has shifted from a visible

    human

    quality to an invisible one. In th e Middle Ages,

    cleanliness was a

    matter

    of appearance: keep

    th e

    hands an d face wiped, wear

    decent clothing an d don t scratch your fleas too obviously. Today cleanliness is

    more of an internalized sentiment, even a psychological state of mind, which

    reflects a concern for bodily privacyan d adesire,

    even

    an obsession, to project that

    what is

    underneath

    -

    hidden

    from

    th e

    eyes of others - is actually 'clean'.

    The first question that Vigarello therefore has to answer is why, if cleanliness

    was merely a question of wearing th e right clothes, were there so many baths in

    medieval France. His answer intimates fragrances of Huizinga's

    homo

    ludens

    Bathing, writes Vigarello, was dominatedbynotions ofplay.

    When th e

    town

    crier summoned th e people of Paris to take a bath, as he frequently did in

    th e

    thirteenth century, he was making a call to a feast of pleasure. Literally, a feast.

    Vigarello describes

    th e

    steam-baths

    an d

    bath-houses of this period as places for

    gathering, eating an d sensual delight.

    Thus the

    expression 'goingfor a steam-bath'

    meant indulging in carnal pleasures on th e fringes of respectability. Evidently,

    washing was th e last thing o ne tho ug ht about in a medieval bath.

    The plague destroyedthis. Underlying

    th e

    city ordinances prohibiting

    th e

    visits

    to steam-baths was a theory that immersion in water, by softening

    th e

    skin an d

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