kanoo world traveller 01 2012
TRANSCRIPT
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Produced in International Media Production Zone
W I N !
A T W O - N I G H T S T A Y A T
R O Y A L R A D I S S O N , D U B A I
CARNIVAL QUEENUnder the wraps of Rio de
Janeiro’s fantastic facelift
Valencia
Why Spain’s ‘third city’could be its finest
KENYA On the trail of spectacular wildlife and luxe lodgings
ON YOUR BIKESimon Calder cycles
his way round Holland
THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE JANUARY 2012
Inside the finest
rooms in the
Indian Ocean
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January 2012 K W T 3
05 check in
We round up the latest travel news to
put you in-the-know for 2012.
13 Where to stay
We head for La-La Land for hotel stays
of celebrity proportions.
14 Picture this
Take a look at this month’s trio of eye-
opening natural wonders.
21 essential selection
Rob Orchard delves in to the best
rooms the Indian Ocean has to oer.
66 Visit: tokyo
Jade Bremner explores the weird and
wonderful sights of Japan’s capital.
68 Visit: st Petersburgh
Wrap up warm and make for thishistoric (and beautiful) Russian city.
71 comPetition
Win a welcome break at the new Royal
Radisson Hotel, Dubai.
72 suite dreams
Fancy spending the night in a Missoni-
designed suite – aboard a super-yacht?
33 holland
Simon Calder takes a (tiring) bicycle
tour via Amsterdam, kids and all.
38 rio de janeiro
The Brazilian capital is about to recieve
a facelift – and become as beautiful as
its people, predicts Adrian Mourby.
44 canary islands
Star-gazing, trekking and building
(black) sandcastles in La Palma.
48 kenya
Laura Binder goes wide-eyed at the
natural wonders (and sublime lodgings)
of Africa.
56 Valencia
Why the Spanish city is stepping out
of Barcelona and Madrid’s shadows.
TRAL BITS
FATRS
contents
Kanoo World Traveller JAAR 2012
Managing Director: Victoria Hazell-Thatcher
Publishing Director: John Thatcher
Advertisement Director: Chris [email protected]
+971 4 369 0917
Group ditor: Laura Binder
Designers: Sarah Boland, Adam SneadeProduction Manager: Haneef Abdul
Group Advertisement Manager: Cat Steele
+971 4 446 1558
Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are
correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in Kanoo World Traveller .
Jan-Jun 2011
22,953
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Produced by: HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC
On the cover:
Masai warrior
at sunset, Masai
Mara, Kenya.Photolibrary
38 33
4844
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January 2012 Kan Wl Tavelle 5
CheCk In | news
CHECK INBE INformEd, BE INspIrEd, BE THErE
the St. RegiS Doha
This month we’re waxing lyrical about an all-new (and very beautiful)
hotel in Qatar: The much-anticipated St. Regis Doha. Steeped in
Middle Eastern grandeur, the hotel’s 336 rooms and sizeable spa
make for a formidable venue overlooking the Arabian Gulf. A location,
incidentally, that lends itself perfectly to exploring the city’s culture-
rich sights: “Arts and culture connoisseurs will enjoy easy access to
the Katara Cultural Village and the nearby Museum of Islamic Arts,”
tells general manager Tareq Derbas. “For an authentic Arabian
market experience, visit Souq Waqif; located along the Corniche, it’s
home to many local restaurants, art galleries and stores that sell
handcrafted items, souvenirs and garments.” If you prefer some time
in the sun, though, the hotel’s 160-metre stretch of beach (it’s dotted
with private cabanas) will certainly do the job. But what of the hotel’s
interiors? “Inside it’s steeped in Middle Eastern mystique, presenting
seductive interiors inspired by the towering sand dunes and ancient
architecture that surround the two towers of the hotel,” says Derbas.
For the best views in the house, we favour its second-oor rooms –
each of which come with an open terrace. Plaudits also go to the St.
Regis brand’s famous butler service: “All our guests are provided with
their own butler,” says Derbas, “oering complimentary beverages,
unpacking and packing services and garment pressing.” What more
could you need? starwoodhotels.com
Qatar
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6 January 2012Kanoo World Traveller
I the ofer o getting away rom
it all – and we mean really getting
away rom it all – appeals, the birth
o two new eco-cottages known as
Crot 103 will be bliss personied.
A project brought to lie by
husband and wie team Fiona
and Robbie MacKay, it’s purely
or couples, located by a loch,
and promises luxury and privacy
with an eco-riendly approach.
“Both buildings are a blend o
stone, glass and local wood, whichwe milled ourselves,” says Fiona
Mackay. “We wanted to create
something completely bespoke,
individual; architecturally beautiul
and that would blend into the
antastic wild landscape.”
When it comes to the location,
you’ll need more than a good map
to nd it: “It ’s remote; on the shore
o Loch Eribol (Britain’s deepest
sea loch) in ront o the majestic
Ben Hope,” navigates Mackay. “It’s
truly untouched and idyllic with
unspoilt panoramic views and
nature in abundance – something
happens when you get there. Your
wee world changes and you never
want to leave!”
Carbon negative, wind turbine-
generated electricity and sheep’s
wool insulation makes each abodeas guilt-ree as it is luxe (ull
glass rontages, custom-made
beds, stone showers and huge
tubs). “There is nothing to beat
sitting in a piping hot solar bath
under the stars watching the
northern lights.” raves Mackay.
neverwanttoleave.co.uk
St. BarthS
On the road to nowhereMy PeRfect tRiP…S. Barhs
Hot of the opening o the Dubai outpost oceleb-avoured nightspot Mo*Vida, ownerMarc Merran shares his avoured place toget away rom it all...
t. Barths is the
ultiate party island,
and a place I can’t
resist returning to
– you can go nuts
there, depending
on your mood!
my funniest travel
eory is fro a trip
to t. Barths last year. It was New Year’s Eve and I
had a headache so my wie gave me a sleeping tablet
and I was ast asleep by ve minutes past midnight!
The spot I would ost recoend others to eat in
when in t. Barth’s is Isola. It’s an Italian restaurant
that’s just ull o A-list stars and some o my great
riends. Everytime I’ve been it ’s been really great
meeting new people – and the ood is great, too.
The island is 24/7 fun – there are 60 clubs and
restaurants located in a small area, so there’s always
somewhere to go – it’s a real party island!
my best-kept secret fro t. Barths is Gouverneurs
Beach. This is natural sunbathing – there aren’t even
any toilets there! It’s home to breathtaking views and
simply stunning blue waters – it’s one o the most
beautiul places I’ve been to.
my three ust-have ites when travelling have to
be my iPad, panama hat and sunglasses.
When I want to relax, I also love aking for the
maldives – I love the simplicity o the ood and the
tranquillity. There I enjoy the sun by day and chill and
relax in the evenings.
And when it coes to the best travelling
copanions... it has to be good riends – anywhere
would be boring without them!
City sliCkersThis month Kanoo Travel and American Express
Vacations bring a trio o 5 day/4 night ofers ...
athens & beyond – $640
This ancient city is chock ull o sights, and this tour takes
you on sightseeing trips o Athens, Argolis and three
Greek islands, both by oot and by boat.
singapore – $530
From the land to the ocean, this Asian adventure shows
you all sides o the city, rom architecture (note City Hall)
to beachlie (Sentosa Island) and wildlie (Singapore Zoo).
kuala lumpur – $345 Arrive at the capital o Malaysia, experience a amily-
riendly day at Genting Outdoor Theme Park then drink-
in a panoramic tour rom Southeast Asia’s tallest tower.
hot offerS
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 7
CHECK IN | NEWS
NEW HOTELS FOR 2012
GLOBAL
The end of 2011 saw the once Chedi Phuket reopen as The Surin Phuket
(thesurinphuket.com). Set on one of the most popular Thai islands, the
108-cottage resort has had a facelift from Paris architect and famed
interior designer Ed Tuttle, and the results are superb. Most of note are
its more spacious, more colourful rooms and all-new beach bar and chill-
out lounge.
It may be temporary, but Mexico’s pop-up hotel is well worth an,
albeit fleeting, visit. Papaya Playa Project (papayaplayaproject.com)
sees 99 ‘eco-cabanas’ (pictured) dot a stretch of Tulum beach until May,
2012. Essentially temporary beach huts, they’re nonetheless sure to
attract more than your average backpacker, thanks to their fluy towels,
mosquito nets draped over beds and ocean-facing hammocks.
Meanwhile, the St Regis Bal Harbour Resort (stregisbalharbour.
com) opens January 19 on Miami Beach. Make a beeline for Florida and
you can meander to the famous South Beach (a great spot for people-
watching) and peruse the revered Bal Harbour Shops – when you’re
not making the most of its slick interiors and headturning, nine-acre
oceanfront gardens, of course.
In Bahrain, the spa at Sofitel Bahrain Zallaq Thalassa Sea & Spa
(sofitel.com) is now open, making it the first to oer thalassotherapy in
the GCC. For spa-lovers, it’s bliss personified: 2,000square metres, two
floors, 14 treatment rooms and a menu that utilises natural sea products
and myriad other features to boot.
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8 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller
New destinations for the New YearLooking for a new holiday spot for 2012? KWT brings you 10 of the world’s
top emerging destinations we bet you’re yet to tick o your travel list...
gloBal
1. NoRtheRN PoRtugal
While you may have already visited Portugal
for its lust-worthy Med cuisine (not to
mention ne grape), it is the country’s rst
ocial capital, nestled in the north, that’s
capturing globetrotters’ attention: Guimarães
(pictured opposite). Culture vultures in
particular will love its history-rich land – so
rich, in fact, that it scooped the title of the
new European Capital of Culture. A day-to-
day exploration will reveal medieval streets
and monuments that harbour tales of the
past. What’s more, you’ll nd yourself close
to Porto – Portugal’s second largest city and
under UNESCO World Heritage protection.
Of its top sights, the Serralves Museum of
Contemporary Art is a must (its modernist
design of sharp, white lines is well worth
a snapshot). What’s more, that mild Med
climate makes sightseeing a joy – break for a
classic ‘pastel de nata’; a small custard tart.
2. BuRMa
Setting foot in to Burma (above) is like
stepping back in time and reemerging in
ancient Asia: men wear skirt-like ‘longyi’;
grand British mansions parade from a
colonial era; and women’s faces are masked
by traditional, colourful make-up (‘thanaka’).
Thankfully, then, Aung San Suu Kyi (the
country’s pro-democracy leader) called
for tourism to return, and a multitude of
operators make trips through its streets an
easy one. Whether you’re inclined to opt for a
guided tour or not, the most luxurious of the
cruises – the Road to Mandalay river cruise by
Orient-Express – is well worth forking out for:
you’ll be whisked by boat from Bagan – an
ancient capital which appears at its best by
dawn, when a mist breaks over thousands
of pagodas (tiered towers). Yangon is also
worth a trip for Shwedagon Paya alone; 99
metres tall and decked in bright, yellow gold.
3. the falklaNDS
The Falklands archipelago is formed by
some 740 islands – and if you’re yet to visit
one, add it to your wish list. Here, Falkland
pebbles and even semi-precious stones can
be found on its northern beaches, while wild
ora and fauna are set against mountainousbackdrops and coastal stretches – a rambler’s
haven. Wildlife enthusiasts should make for
its immaculate shores to spot myriad breeds
of penguin – Kings, Rockhopppers (pictured
right), Gentoo and Magellanic among them
– or hop aboard a boat tour to spy whales
and dolphins. For history-enthusiasts,
meanwhile, the imminent 30th anniversary of
the Falklands War makes it a poignant timeto peruse the numerous museums and sites
dedicated to the 1982 conict. (The Falklands
Islands Museum tops the tourist trail.)
4. uRuguay
Of all of South America, Uruguay is unlikely
to be your rst port of call, but it’s slowly
capturing travellers’ attention – and rightly
so. If the prospect of winter sun isn’t enough
to draw you here, its party atmosphere
certainly will: its capital, Montevideo, hosts
the world’s longest carnival, a vibrant aair
that goes strong for 40 days, no less.
Expect singing, dancing and drumming
on the streets, brought to life with head-
turning outts of glitter and feathers
hugging impossibly gorgeous locals. It
begins and ends with a street parade – so
try and arrange your trip to coincide with its
beginning or tail end. Indeed, it seems that
Montevideo has anticipated an inux
of jet-setters with not one but two new
ve-star hotels: the Sotel Montevideo
Casino Carrasco and Spa and Pestana
Montevideo Hotel.
5. caMBoDia
If there’s one place to have surged up
the new destinations chart in 2011, it’s
Cambodia. Though some would argue it
was a step behind Vietnam, the ‘Kingdom
of Cambodia’ has responded to its surge
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 9
CheCk In | news
want an entirely new hotspot, check in to The
Ocean Retreat on the east coast; an intimate
resort for a maximum of 10 guests and where,
in season, you can see whales and dolphins
glide by your ocean-facing room.
10. NoRth-WeSt iNDia A sense of peace and calm seems to radiate
over this region of India, making it ideal for
those after a cultural experience of a calmer
ilk. Of the new elements to draw rst-time
visitors is its Duronto Express train, which
bridges the gap between Amritsar and
Chandigahr and will take you between the
two in a non-stop urry of green and yellow
(its carriages are famously bright). Elsewhere,
Kashmir is also calmer than in years gone by
and well worth a visit, not least for its many
ne vistas.
in popularity with a cluster of high-end
resorts: November saw Phnom Penh come
to fruit in the form of Colonial-style buildings
bunched together amid tropical terrain.
Just last month, meanwhile, we reportedthe emergence of Song Saa – Cambodia’s
very rst private-island resort, where two
sister islands on the previously untouched
Koh Rong archipelago are now dotted with
27 villas, which perch over either beach, sea
or fauna, and all of which are decked out in
stylish, beach-inspired aesthetics. With such
lavish new haunts, try not to fall prey to the
temptation of staying put (Song Saa’s privatebutler service makes it all too easy to lounge
around), and make time for its original draw –
the ancient ruins of Angkor Wat.
6. fiNlaND
Seeing the Northern Lights is an once-in-a-
lifetime pursuit and one of Finland’s remotest
snow-covered regions, Nellim, has been
tipped as the best spot from which to spy
this year’s aurora borealis, in March 2012.
(Nasa predicts it will be the best display
in half a century.) Set on the icy shore of
Lake Inari, to say that Nellim is remote is an
understatement (its village is home to one
store, one coee shop and a marina). It’s
this sheer lack of pollution, then, that lends
Nellim sublime visibility for light-hunters.
There are more deluxe spots to stay close by,
though: Igloo Village Kakslauttanen boasts
thermo-glass igloos, while the Ruka Village
Hotel has hot tubs outside, so you can gaze at
the stars from a relaxing, bubbling spot. The
snow bunnies among you will have plenty
of opportunities to bounce around too; this
part of the world is a hotbed of ice-themed
activities, our favoured pick of which is
chasing the lights by dog sled.
7. the BalkaNS
Slovenia, Montenegro and Croatia’s
Dalmation Coast all top the highlights of
this sight-rich destination. For those after
an altogether dierent sightseeing trip, it’s
also an experience best savoured from a
train cabin – after all, its heritage rail, which
preserves railways of the past, is a staple
of the region, the most notable example of
which is Sargan Eight at Mokra Gora, Serbia:
regarded as one of Europe’s nest examples
of railway engineering. Step aboard for a
closer glimpse of the top sights, (we favour
Lake Bled, a glacial lake in a piercing blue
hue) and you’ll be on a journey of spirals, hair
pin bends and even a gure-of-eight-loop.
8. taNzaNia
Just last month, Tanzania rejoiced in a special
anniversary – 50 years of independence –
and it’s a date that goes hand in hand with
signicant upgrades, making travel in the
country that bit easier. The name of the game
here is, of course, an exploration that marries
wildlife-spotting with landscape to make
your jaw drop. Serengeti (one of the world’s
major wildlife reserves) and Ngorongoro (the
world’s largest volcanic crater and home to
the highest density of big game in Africa) are
two esteemed safari spots where you can spy
wild animals roaming the East African plains:
the Big Five are all but a guarantee. Tanzania
is a destination for adventurers too – its
rust/green terrain is the motherland of Mt
Kilimanjaro, oering challenging treks, while,
for those after a more low-key pursuit, the
beaches of Zanzibar are something else.
9. taSMaNia
Wildlife, luxurious cutting-edge resorts,
culture in abundance and pristine beaches
are what’s placed Tasmania rmly on our
radar this year. Whoever you travel with,
there’ll be plenty to keep you occupied in
this wild state of Australia. Bush-walking is
as authentic an Ozzie experience as it gets,while wild shing and dolphin watching
place you in catch-your-breath range to the
island’s wildlife. The stunning landscape can
be drunk-in from luxury haunts like Sare
and the Southern Ocean Lodge – but, if you
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 11
CHECK IN | NEWS
WHAT IN THE WORLD?
3 ST KITTS CARNIVAL is a great excuse for a party
in the capital of Basseterre, where it seems the festive
season just isn’t long enough. This colourful event brings
lashings of party spirit in the form of infectiously fun parades,
no-holds-barred dancing and, best of all, the crowning of the
carnival king and queen.
6 ART IN THE WINDOWS takes hold of virtually every
empty window in Naples’ Borgo Sant Eligio, when it invites
hundreds of artists to showcase their photos and paintings in
shops and piazzas, making a truly headturning stroll.
11 KUKERI FESTIVAL Sees men draped in full
sheepskins, weird and wonderful masks and jinglingcopper belts – the norm at this time of year in Bulgaria,
when the rural villages perform an ancient ceremony
(dances and songs galore) to ward o evil.
12-15 SNOW ARENA POLO WORLD CUPin Austria brings the ‘sport of kings’ (and an injection
of glamour) on to Kitzbühel ski resort’s blankets
of snow, where well-heeled spectators (furs and all)
gather to watch six international teams compete.
20 SEMPER OPERA BALL is the highlight of every
Dresden-based socialite. Elegant ladies in floor-length gowns
parade on the arms of tuxedo-clad men and, while VIP tables are
available (at a hefty price), those on a budget can join a 10,000
strong throng who dance in the huge square outside.
24-29 ABU DHABI HSBC GOLF CHAMPIONSHIPsees the true pros tee o on what is one of the biggest games
on the PGA European Tour calendar. Four days, 30,000 viewers
and o-course entertainment make it a must-see event for golfing
fans worldwide.
11
12-15
24-29
20
3
6
THE NEW YEAR BRINGS A WHOLE OF HOST OF EVENTS IN WHICH
TO PARTAKE – OR SIMPLY SIT BACK AND ENJOY THE SHOW...
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CHECK IN | WHERE TO STAY
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 13
CHECK IN | WHERE TO STAY
Hip Classic Ofbeat Chic
LA-style Themed High-end BoutiqueOR
Downtown
OR
OR
e Stan ar Downtown LA
standardhotels.comThis place is so cool, it almost hurts:
Slick, slightly ‘out there’ design
eatures and a rooftop lounge GQ
escri e as ‘t e est in t e wor ’.
‘La-La Land’, the ‘City of Angels’; whatever you call L.A. onething’s for certain; it’s a seriously cool spot for a USA break...
WHERE TO STAY...
LOS ANGELES
igueroa Hotel
figueroahotel.com
Its neon red sign in Hollywo
tyle lettering makes this 19
hotel everything you’d ho
for from classic L.A. Insid
meanwhile, a Moroccan the
pervades, from its colour pal
to its lighting, well-worn sto
nd fauna-flanked pool; a gr
spot to sup icy beverages
Laid back and very ool.
drian Los Angeles
mondrianhotel.com
g foot through this hotel’s
mahogany doors makes
el like an instant celebrity.
t, from its interiors (plush
s and bespoke furntiture)
hangouts (the open-air
ce at Skybar is a revered
) it’s got to be one of the
st spots this side of town.
e arc
leparcsuites.comTucked away in a quiet spot of West
Hollywood, this intimate hotel is about
o emerge from a $5million makeover,
injecting yet more sty e into t e area.
LA S y Boutique Hote
skyhotella.comTwenty-eight rooms, a sea of sky blue
hues (hence the name) and al resco
detailing throughout its lobby, make
this an eye-catching stopover.
Hilton Checkers Los Angeles
hiltoncheckers.comThis downtown haunt dates back
to t e 1920s, promising guests an
sc oo am ience, wit mo ern
touches (note its rooftop pool).
OR
S TAR T
HollywoodOR
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Picture this
raPa ValleySarek National Park, Sweden
What you see before you is part of Europe’s largest
stretch of wilderness: the 35km long Rapa Valley, with
a 700ft near-vertical drop from edge to valley oor(gulp). The largest of its kind in Sarek National
Park, its pristine waters snake between the famed
mountain ranges and cut a contrast to its rainforest-
like vegetation. Unsurprisingly then, Rapa Valley (or
‘Rapadalen’ in Swedish) makes for a lump-in-the-throat
sight in the esh, and one that’s beheld time and again
by avid trekkers (it’s considered the most beautiful river
delta in Sweden) who traverse the unmarked paths
around it in a bid to drink-in the sight of what’s become
known as ‘Europe’s Last Wilderness’.
Image: Corbis / Arabian Eye
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Picture this
lesser FlamingoesLake Nakuru National Park, Kenya
Rarely do you see all-natural hues as vivid as uchsia but,
in Kenya, Lake Nakuru transorms into a sea o prawn
cocktail-pink as thousands – sometimes millions – o
long-legged famingos fock to its warm shores, where
their avoured delicacy is rie; algae. But, don’t assume
the mighty birds are all the same – two species parade
here, the Greater Flamingo with its black-tipped bill and,
pictured here, the Lesser Flamingo, with its brilliant red
bill and pink plumage. While the lake’s surace is oten
hard to decipher amid the shiting pink mass, the best
viewpoint can be gained at the park’s Baboon Cli.
A stellar photo opportunity i ever there was one...
Image: Corbis / Arabian Eye
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Picture this
boiling mud Pots
Rotorua, New ZealandIf you head not to the town of Rotorua in New Zealand,
but to the lake of the same name on the country’s
southern shores, you’re nostrils will be met with the
scent of... rotten eggs. While it may not seem the
most attractive prospect, the landscape (at the heart
of the North Island) is well worth a look; a hotbed for
geothermal activity in the form of erupting geysers,
volcanoes, steaming vents and, of course, mud pots
which bubble away like a witch’s cauldron. That scent,incidentally, is a product of the geothermal activity
that releases sulphur into the atmosphere (we suggest
taking a nose peg). But, it’s not all bad; the bizarre
landscape lends itself to some truly au natural cleansing
treatments; try a mud or steaming sulphur bath.
Image: Getty / Gallo Images
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EssEntial sElEction | thE BEst Rooms in thE indian ocEan
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The Best
Rooms in
the Indian
OceanLooking or the fnest accommodation inthe most captivating region in the world?Rob Orchard says look no urther...
c
Taj Exotica Maldives
he Rehendi Presidential uiteWhen it comes to the Taj Exotica Maldives’ presidential
suite, it’s hard to pinpoint its nest feature. Plaudits go to
the sheer magnitude of space – 500 square metres, no less,
all of which is immaculately furnished and, perhaps best of
all, includes a glass-walled bathroom, providing a world-
class view over the ocean as you soak in the tub. Step
outside, meanwhile, and there’s plenty more to rave about:
namely, its stunning private pool with spacious sundeck
– make a beeline for its hammock and take a siesta as it
sways gently over the lagoon. Oh, and for good measure,
there’s a private butler permanently on call. We told you
it was hard to choose…
nd while you’re here... Don’t miss a sunset cruise on the
resort’s speedboat – very James Bond. tajhotels.com
January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 21
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22 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller
Conrad Maldives Rangali Island
Water villa
There are few feelings in this life more exquisite than stepping on to the private
sundeck of your Water Villa at the Conrad Maldives Rangali Island (below and right):
in front of you there’s nothing but the turquoise waters of the island’s glorious reef –
take a few steps down and you’re in the water, idly ipping your way over the coraland teeming sea life – while behind is the resort’s superb stretch of golden beach.
Meanwhile, the water villa itself is lled with all the luxurious trimmings you could
imagine, from Bvlgari toiletries to a sleek Nespresso Machine. If you’re looking for
a soothing, inspiring getaway, this is your place.
And while you’re here... Make sure to book in for a relaxation session at the
imaginative ‘Ice cream spa’ – as delicious as it sounds. conradhotels1.hilton.com
EssEntial sElEction | thE BEst Rooms in thE indian ocEan
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 23
Heritage Awali Golf & Spa Resort, Mauritius
Villa
Beautiful decoration is of prime importance in the Villas at the Heritage Awali
Golf & Spa Resort (pictured left); a pleasing blend of African and tropical
themes pervade throughout the pair of large bedrooms, the bathrooms
(trimmed with black stone) and children’s room to create a warm, open
space that makes you instantly feel at home. Behind the villa you’ll nd a
delightful gazebo and a private pool – a prime spot to put your feet up and
allow the 24-hour butler attend to your every whim.
And while you’re here... Hit the Heritage Golf Club for 18 holes on the Peter
Matkovitch-designed course; nestled between the ocean and the mountains
it’s a truly stunning site on which to perfect your swing. Heritageawali.mu
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EssEntial sElEction | thE BEst Rooms in thE indian ocEan
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 25
Hotel Sofitel SO Mauritius Bel Ombre
Villa Beaulieu
Whether you’re wandering through the fragrant haven of your private garden,
taking some pre-dinner exercise in your 27 square-metre pool or chilling out in a
sink-straight-in sun lounger while gazing out to sea, you’ll adore the Villa Beaulieu.
It’s lled with smart extras too – including Kenzo-designed amenities, an iPod dock
and free wi – and it’s brilliant for families, with two big bedrooms and tons of space.
And while you’re here... Be sure to reserve an evening for a long, laidback dinner
at Le Flamboyant, a restaurant by the hotel’s main innity pool, where you’ll nd
a thrilling mix of French and Mauritian dishes. softel.com
Maia Luxury Resort & Spa,
Seychelles
Ocean Panoramic Villa
When they say ‘panoramic’, they’re
not kidding. Your view at Maia is of
a heart-breakingly beautiful vista
that drops sharply away from the
edge of your designer innity pool
and reaches out towards the innite
horizon, where nothing but the
sweep of a beach-lined bay breaks
the sea. Sitting out here under the
thatched roof of your veranda, you’ll
start plotting ways to stay forever –
and that’s before you’ve witnessed
the sunsets; an extraordinary riot of
colour that really shouldn’t be missed
during your visit.
And while you’re here... Take a
personal Hatha Yoga class in your
villa, a truly invigorating experience
when paired with the spotless views
all around you. maia.com.sc
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26 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller
Lux* Belle-Mare, Mauritius
Maharajah Suite
With its gorgeous Indian-themed decor and its world-beating private
rooftop terrace – equipped with whirlpool and solarium, naturally – the
Maharajah Suite is a sight for sore eyes. If you’re visiting with a group,
you can get a Junior Suite directly connected to it, making family
celebrations simple. Take a few steps away from its lavish interiors,
meanwhile, and you’ll set foot on the beach’s cotton-soft sands, the lush
grass of the gardens or dip toes in to a vast, 2,000 square-metre pool.
And while you’re here... Work your way through the resort’s
seven eateries – we love the super-fresh seafood at Langoustier.
luxislandresorts.com
Shangri-La Maldives
Tree Top Villa
Bringing an imaginative, verdant twist to the classic Maldives
experience, the Tree Top Villas at the Shangri-La Maldives (pictured)
are truly secluded, surrounded by rich green vegetation. Each of the
villas are built on stilts, meaning you’re literally up among the treetops –
which also means doubly stunning vistas of the water. Here, the sound
of tropical birdsong lls the air as you take a leisurely dip in your private
innity pool. Life does not get much better than this.
And while you’re here... Enjoy a rst class dinner at Dr. Ali’s restaurant,
which focuses on ne food from the Gulf, the South China Sea and the
Indian Ocean – we defy your mouth not to water. shangri-la.com
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Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort
& Spa King Presidential Villa
Set on beautiul Silhouette Island, the Hilton’s
Seychelles ofering has a lot going or it. But
perhaps nothing is quite as exceptional as its
1,090 square-metre King Presidential Villa;
a hillside haven with unobstructed ocean
views. Here you’ll nd two gigantic bedrooms,
outdoor dining area (perect or entertaining),
and a handsome private terrace. Oh, and thenthere’s the small matter o the Seychelles’
largest private swimming pool. Private beach
access and butler service complete the
dream-like package.
And while you’re here... Dedicate an evening
to Grann Kaz, a restaurant set in a plantation
house ve minutes rom the resort – one o
the loveliest dining spots in the archipelago.
1.hilton.com
28 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller
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www.VisitGoldCoast.com
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EssEntial sElEction | thE BEst Rooms in thE indian ocEan
Banyan Tree Seychelles Angsana Velavaru, Maldives
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Banyan Tree Seychelles
Intendance Pool Villa
Built into the granite side of a hill overlooking the gorgeous Intendance
Bay, the Intendance Pool Villas (pictured) consist of a series of ‘luxury
areas’ connected by stairs and walkways which bring together your
sundeck, private jet pool, living pavilion, horizon-view veranda and villa– all designed with a colonial-style aesthetic. You’ll spend your visit idly
oating between them, soaking-up the fresh air, sunshine, views and
lush tropical greenery. For extra indulgence, request the mountaintop
Intendance Pool Villa which comes with its very own massage pavilion.
And while you’re here... Spend a morning soaking up the atmosphere
in the sweet-smelling botanical and spice garden. banyantree.com
January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 31
Angsana Velavaru, Maldives
InOcean Villa
Angsana pitches their 11 InOcean villas as oering the opportunity to
‘Relive a picture postcard fantasy’. They’re not wrong. Everywhere you
look is perfection – from the huge, deep blue innity pools which juts
out into the ocean, to the outsized open-air hammocks (big enough forthe whole family to laze on) and the sleek modern decor of the living
room. Combine that with the overwhelming natural beauty of Velavaru
itself and you’ve got a true slice of perfection.
And while you’re here... Book in for a heavenly two-hour bamboo
massage on one of the 12 rooftop spa pavilions, where you can listen
to the waves as your troubles are kneaded away. angsana.com
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water way to holiday | holland
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January2012Kanoo World Traveller33
O nthescaleofparentalrecklessness,
coulditratealongsideleavingthe
childreninchargeoftheingredients
ofathermonucleardeviceoratthe
controlsofa747?Eightdaysago,
awobblyparadeofyoungsters,
rangingfromsevento13,wereinstructed–alongwith
theirparents–tocycle15milesintothecentreofaleadingEuropeancapitalattheheightoftherushhour.
Notonlydidallthreedozenofusmakeit,but
thejourneyintoAmsterdamprovedthecrowning
achievementofabarge-and-bikeholidaythatunlocked
thesub-sea-levelsecretsofHolland.
Thejourneyended,asitbegan,aboardtheAmsterdam
inthemiddleofAmsterdam.ThelatterisEurope’smost
engagingcapital;theformerisaformercargobarge,built
in1924andconverted70yearslaterintoahotelship.She
spendsthewinterhelpingtosoakupthesurplusdemand
foraccommodationinthecity,mooredhandilybetweenanoldEastIndiaman,aoatingChineserestaurantand
thecopper-burnishedhulkoftheNewMetropolis.But
betweenMarchandOctobershemeandersaroundthe
Water way to holidayThe Zuider Zee may have lost its salt, but it provides the perfect platform for an active
family holiday around the historic heart of the Netherlands, says Simon Calder
maritime highways of the Low Countries, conveying three
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34 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller
dozen people – and their bicycles – around the wild heart
of the Netherlands.
The IJsselmeer Family Cruise, the holiday I bought, is
a procession around the periphery of the body of water
that you and I probably know as the Zuider Zee – the‘South Sea’. Since the completion of the Afsluitdijk in 1932
to heal the broken shoulder of the Netherlands and seal
o the North Sea, it has eectively been an articial lake,
known mostly as the IJsselmeer.
The rst day set the scene for the rest of the week:
sailing, cycling, exploring. The Amsterdam quickly
shrugged o the suburbs, and emerged into a world
dominated by a huge sky, punctured by slender masts
reaching for the heavens. The clouds jostling in the westrippled Impressionistically on the water surface of the
Markermeer (the hydrology is complex hereabouts). The
narrow band of land visible on either side is enlivened by
the odd church spire, and the knowledge that some of the
reclaimed shoreline had not existed for as long as I have.
The rst port of call, Hoorn, has evidently existed even
longer than me: a 16th-century tower with defensive
pretensions stands between the harbour and the town.
On a warm summer’s evening the citizens spill out ontothe streets: either to loll on deck-chairs and gossip
outside their houses (front gardens are a rarity in Dutch
towns) or to converge on the cafes on the main square.
Like most of the ports visited, Hoorn comes with an
impressive pedigree. It was once a port for the Dutch East
India Company, the world’s rst multinational.
The rst group cycle ride was a mere 10-mile circuit,
evidently designed to allow the two guides (Gwen, a
teacher, and Louisa, a student) to assess levels of skill
and stamina. Happily for young or untoned limbs, the
Netherlands does not require mountain bikes. (Its highest
point, in the far south-east of the country, is a peak of
barely 1,000ft that is shared with Germany and Belgium.)
The IJsselmeer itinerary circles the soggy pancake at
the nation’s centre, so brows are never furrowed at the
prospect of gradients. Nor are parental nerves strained at
the prospect of collisions on the relatively rare occasions
where gentle, well-surfaced bike paths intersect with
busy roads. You soon learn to look out for shark’s teeth.
Not the fearsome sh, but the triangular white markings
that signify who has to give way: see “vvv” and it’s you.
But usually it’s the car drivers who must wait, patiently.
And they do. Holland has an even lower road fatality rate
than the gratifyingly safe UK. It shares that honour with
Iceland and Malta, but unlike those islands it has a huge
population of cyclists.
A steady 10mph on the at leaves you free to feel the
breeze brushing your cheeks. You let your eyes rest on
the scenery: avenues of beech or oak carving through
meadows populated by contented cattle or posturing
herons. Your ears tune in to a soundtrack where birdsong
Opening page: Classic
houses along a canal. This
page, clockwise rom top
let: Windmill and ower
feld, Holland; Amsterdam’s
historic houses; a couple at
one o Amsterdam’s canalside
caes; The avoured mode o
transport – a bicycle.
is usually more prevalent than motor transport, except
on a few rare occasions when the procession strays near
a rowdy highway – such as the Houtribdijk, a 20-mile-
long dyke that begins at the port of Enkhuisen. We were
quickly whisked away by boat into a tourist attraction that
celebrates Dutch pragmatism: when they didn’t like the lie
of the land, they redrew the map.
Everything you need to know about Holland is
contained in the Zuiderzee Museum: activities from
sailmaking to worshipping are celebrated in buildings
rescued from the region and reconstructed as a village
devoted to livelihoods – and lives – lost in the remarkable
history of the Netherlands. A single timber building on
the edge of the complex reveals much. Even though it
does not even make the ocial guide, it is a repository of
innovation. It was a hut for drying seaweed, which was
used variously as medicine, stung for mattresses – and
building dykes. Now, it is a gallery, full of dazzling light.
And the building material? Every timber was salvaged
from wrecked ships.
While adults ponder the strange way in which tragedy
fuels creativity, their ospring are more interested in the
austere classroom, the freshly smoked herrings and the
water way to holiday | holland
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 35
‘a couple of miles
from the centre
of a European
capital, you can drift
through dreamy
farmland and pretty
cottages...’
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36 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller
water way to holiday | holland
sweet shop, dispensing liquorice as salty as the Zuider
Zee used to be
Opposite page: Harbour
and sailboats at Hoorn.
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 37
Zee used to be.
Later, we sailed across the Zee to Urk – a port that,
on a Sunday evening, is about as ar as you can get rom
the eshpots and “cofee shops” o Amsterdam, even
though the Dutch capital is less than 40 miles away.Until the tide went out, permanently, in 1932, it was an
island – and a deeply religious one at that, rather like the
Isle o Lewis in the Outer Hebrides. The ultimate lock-in
was inevitably going to irk Urk’s inhabitants, particularly
when the North-East Polder was created beyond the
crumpled skirts o the town. Today, a line o 21st-century
windmills utters northwards, beneath the monument
o a mother mourning a lost sailor.
“Daddy, don’t kill the duck.” Fortunately or themallard in question, he had plenty o time to wat out o
range o my ailing paddles, and seven-year-old Poppy
ound other navigational issues on which to heckle me.
Water was a prominent eature throughout the trip: the
Amsterdam glided through much o it, and provided a
springboard or an impromptu mass leap into the lake
with the exhilaration o summer as the barge was moored
at the town o Zwartsluis (no, I hadn’t heard o it, either).
Bikes also enable you to get much closer to the water
than the motorist can manage, deep into the heart o the
Weerribben National Park. And when the path nally trails
of, you swap wheels or paddles or an hour or two in a
kayak, to explore the mysteries o the largest reshwater
wetland in north-west Europe.
We paddled amid (and oten into) the reeds and lilies;
smelled the sweet, earthy aroma o the swamp; and (as
my losing battle with the undamentals o hydrodynamics
continued), ailed to identiy most o the owers and
butteries and birds that clog this corner o Europe’s most
crowded major nation.
The Netherlands is a complex, compact mix o nature
and artice. The trip gives you plenty o time to discover
towns that are notable by their absence rom the indexes
o guidebooks. As we cycled to the barge at the end o
the duck-stalking day, Daisy, aged nine, wearily asked:
“Is this the same town as last night?” It wasn’t, but I
understood her uncertainty at seeing yet another pretty
assemblage o cottages ranged around a petite port, with
the church tower risingV Vabove. There were some great
urban treats, though: in Elburg, the entire population was
on the streets; not demonstrating, but buying and selling
in the annual municipal ea market. The list o Dutch
towns I had hitherto overlooked continued to the last day.
Naarden, of my map until eight days ago, is a bastion
town as entrancing as any in Aquitaine, with a Grote Kerk
that is indeed a great church in at least two respects: the
amazing Biblical scenes on the vaulting, and the clean,
ree loos.
Muiden – a 20-minute train ride rom Amsterdam –
turns out to be the home o Holland’s most-visited castle.
By this stage the guides’ energy was ading: “There’s thetoilets,” (points right). “There’s the town,” (points straight
ahead). “There’s the castle,” (points let).
On the basis that I had 28 minutes and counting to
inspect the ortications, I negotiated a deal with the
helpul lady or cut-price admission to this handsome
ortress, where the Dutch interpretation o heritage is
to provide video games where the aim is to drop rocks
on invaders.
As a stream o Airbuses and Boeings invaded the
airspace above the castle on their nal approach to
Schiphol airport, the nal approach to Amsterdam began:
across the middle o a gol course here, threading through
perumed pine woods there. The narrower your eld o
vision, the more joy you nd in the detail – though the 21st
century is never ar away. Beneath a motorway, across the
main Amsterdam-to-Hamburg railway line, and, ooh look,
a beach. Splash.
We lined up beside a canal. Gwen stood on a concrete
platorm and lectured us on how to survive the nal
assault on Amsterdam. “Keep right. These drivers have
had a hard day and don’t like a bunch o tourists getting
in their way.”
The last ride was a study in man-made miracles: the
mighty earthworks that the Dutch use to overcome the
design aw o living below sea level, the giant canals that
carve up the country, and the spectacular bridges that
leap across them.
The straggle o cyclists caught up with itsel in a car
park alongside the derelict Caé West-Indeë. The grati
on the wall read “Not a dime in my pocket, but a dream
in my head.” With all the children counted back in, we
weaved or the last ew hundred yards along quaysides
and across bridges, and trickled to a halt beside the
Amsterdam, in Amsterdam.
I ended the trip amazed how, a couple o miles rom
the centre o a European capital, you can drit through
dreamy armland and pretty cottages; how, in just a week,
people rom disparate lives and nations become so rmly
bonded; and how, in the course o 5,000 cyclist-miles,
no-one had got a puncture. I m a g e s : C o r b i s / A r a b i a n E y e / S h u t t e r s t o c k / N e t h e r l a n d ’ s B o a r d o f
T o u r i s m
T e x t : S i m o n C a l d e r /
T h e I n d e p e n d e n t / T h e I n t e r v i e w P e o p l e
and sailboats at Hoorn.
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Brazil’s hottest city is getting a facelift.
Now we’ll really be able to admire its
beauty, says Adrian Mourby
HerNameis rio
38 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller
Rio | BRazil
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 39
Opening page: Rio de
Janeiro at sunset. This
page, clockwise from top:
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40January2012Kanoo World Traveller
O
nehundredyearsago,amadmanbeganhisgrand
designtoputRiodeJaneiroonthemap.Augusto
FerreiraRamoswasn’tgenuinelyinsane,butthat’s
whatmanyclaimed.Asaprofessorofengineering,
hewasconvinceditwaspossibletobuildacable-car
routefromthesuburbsofBrazil’scapitaluptothetopofthehuge
graniterockknownasMorrodaUrca.
Urcaisoneoftwovolcanicpegsthatguardtheentrancetothe
greatbayonwhichRiodeJaneirostands.Fromthere,asecondcable-
carcouldlinktotheMorrodoPaodeAcucar,whichweknowbetter
todayastheSugarLoaf.NoonepreventedProfessorRamosbutno
onethoughthe’dmanageiteither.MorrodaUrcais215metresabove
thecity,theSugarLoafis396mhigh.Yet,withinayearRamoshad
doneit.Sweetlittlecanary-yellowcarswereswayingtheirwayupto
thesummitandhe’dalreadystartedthesecondphase,toconnect
acrossthegreatchasmtotheSugarLoaf.Theviewswerestupendous
andthelocalpostcardindustrywentintooverdrive.
EverythingelsewethinkoftodayasRiodeJaneirocame
afterwards–thestatueofChristtheRedeemer,Carnivalasweknow
it,theCopacabanaPalace,OscarNiemeyerandallthosegirlsfrom
Ipanema.Today,ProfessorRamos’sachievementiscelebratedbya
statueofhimonthesummitofMorrodaUrca–asmall,benignman
inbow-tieandtrilby,whosmilesatthosewhowrotehimoandwho
arethemselvesforgottennow.
Itakeaphotoofthestatueandthenpauseintheheattoadmire
theviewasjetsbankinfrontofMorrodaUrcaandtheSugarLoaf.
Whataplacetoyinto.ThecityofRiospreadsitselfaround
anumberoftheseoldvolcanicplugs,likemossinllingarockery.
TheonlyproblemwithRioiswhathappenstoyoubetweenying
inpasttheSugarLoafandreachingtheincreasinglywell-restored
citycentrebelow.
ThereisaroadfromGaleaoInternationalAirportthatspoilsitall.
TheElevadodaPerimetralisold,rustyandcantilevered.Itcutslike
atwo-tieredBerlinWallthroughthecity’shistoricdistrict.Icamein
thiswayandwasamazedatwhatIsawbelow;colonialRiobisected
byanageing1960smonstrosity.
Modern Art musuem;
Drum troupe performing
in a Samba parade;
Performer at the Summer
Carnival; Tram Carioca
viaduct; Cafe at
the Lapa Aquaduct.
Rio | BRazil
Later, I stood below the avenue and wondered at what the city‘When I visited the
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 41
t , t t t t t ty
planners had been thinking. I had my back to Placa Tiradentes, a
popular gathering point during Rio Carnival. It’s named ater a
bearded Brazilian revolutionary whose aim was ull independence
rom the Portuguese. In 1792 he was betrayed, executed and ritually
dismembered, but since the 19th century Tiradentes has been a
national hero. He is also, curiously, patron o the military police in
Minas Gerais, the city o his birth.
Opposite me stood a whitewashed building similar to some o the
old palaces I’d seen in Tenerie – low, colonial, pan-tiled and balconied.
This was the Paço Imperiale, now hal a kilometre rom the sea and
kept away rom it by the noisy Perimetral. Today, it’s an art gallery,
restaurant and bookshop, yet back in the time o Napoleon, this was
the harbour-ront palace rom which the Portuguese Empire was ruled
(at least in theory). King John VI o Portugal lived here rom 1808
ater feeing Lisbon ollowing Napoleon’s invasion. It was the British
Navy that brought him over, along with his mother, Maria a Luoco
(Mad Maria). She was installed at a sae distance across the street, in a
Carmelite convent that still stands today. In the conused mix o post-
Napoleonic politics ater the dust had settled in Europe, King John’s
son, Prince Pedro, was in this palace in 1822 when he proclaimed
Brazil’s independence, and it was rom here that the fedgling country
was run. Even today, many Brazilians speak proudly o the act thattheir newly independent country was a liberal monarchy long beore
it was a republic.
The old harbour has long since been lled in to create a square.
Looming over it are two towering Baroque churches that are rather
squashed together: the Cathedral o Our Lady o Carmo and the
Church Ordem Terceira. In the middle o the square, acing the sea,
stands a mounted statue o General Manuel Luis Osorio, hero o
Brazil’s war against Paraguay (1864-70). Sadly, all the lettering was
smashed o in the days beore inner-city Rio cleaned up its act, soI had to take the words o a dapper old man who looked rather like
Proessor Ramos that this was, indeed, Osorio.
When I visited, the
dance oor was
busy, the band waspumping out samba…
It was everything I
had imagined when
I rst picked up my
ticket for Rio’
Opposite page: A cable
car to Sugar Loaf
Mountain.
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42 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller
‘The city o Rio
spreads itsel
around a number
o [these] old
volcanic plugs,
like moss inflling
a rockery’
The general and his horse stand facing a Baroque fountain by
Master Valentin where people used to do their washing. It produces
no water now. Worse, however, is the fact that statue, fountain and
palace – not to mention St James’s Fort nearby – no longer face
the sea at all but the Elevado da Perimetral. I know it’s a useful road
because my taxi used it to bring me into town, but really, it looks
horrible and it cuts o what locals call the Cultural Corridor from the
sea, which was the reason these buildings were called into being in
the rst place.
Fortunately, the city, with its eye on the 2014 World Cup, is doing
something about this insensitive piece of urban planning. The
road is going underground, thus opening up the historic centre of
Brazil’s great trading port to the bay. Better still, a whole dockland
redevelopment is planned – on rather European lines – to reclaim
the old port and make it worth visiting. I negotiated my way under
the Perimetral to nd a number of impressive warehouses that
used to serve the White Star Line on the other side. They remain
undemolished and there is an absolute jewel of an Art Deco
harbour building.
In front of it, an ugly old concrete jetty extends far into the bay, but
it is being transformed by the great and highly idiosyncratic Spanish
architect Santiago Calatrava. His characteristic white-ribbed structure
will be the port’s signature building, Museu do Amanha (Museum of
the Future), to be completed next year.
By 2014, visitors and locals will be able to walk from the narrow
Cultural Corridor to this $2.8bn (£1.75bn) waterfront redevelopment
and the historic centre will be reborn. The project has been dubbed
“The Marvelous Port”, a reference to Rio’s long-term nickname, Cidade
Maravilhosa (Marvellous City). With a characteristic touch of the
dramatic, and uncharacteristic modesty, Calatrava has declared
that his building will not dominate the landscape as his work has
in Tenerife, Liege and his home city of Valencia. “I do not want to
compete with all that Rio already has,” he says.
Retracing my steps, I passed by the fountain and the nameless
general and ducked under the Arco do Telles, a simple passageway
under a house owned by the Telles family. It led to a narrow cobbled
street, Travessa Do Comercio. There used to be many winding streets
like this before the city had its Baron Haussmann moment in the 19th
century and labyrinthine Rio was replaced by an attempted grid.
Travessa Do Comercio used not to be at all safe and in its shadows
and blind alleys you can see why. But nowadays this is prime tourist-
trap territory and tables were already being set up for lunch. I looked
for the house (No 13) where Carmen Miranda was brought up, after
she arrived from Portugal in 1910. To my surprise there was no plaque
to the lady with the tutti-frutti hat.
The streets kept twisting at right angles and eventually I came
out at the church Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Lapa dos Mercadores,
one of two in Rio dedicated to the 17th-century cult that came over
from Portugal. The current structure dates from 1870 but was closed
for many years during the bad times. It’s recently reopened and is
wonderfully gilded inside.
Nearby, at the western edge of the Lapa district, stands my
already-all-time-favourite restaurant in Rio. Every visitor should go
to the Rio Scenarium – three huge dark solid Gothic-style houses put
together in a street, Rua do Lavradio, that was once a byword for
drugs, robbery and murder.
A few years ago, the owner, who had been renting the property as
a warehouse for lm props, turned it into a bar-cum-restaurant, its
walls decorated with photo-montages of Brazilian movie stars, fridge
doors, bicycles, clocks, Chinese lanterns, you name it. Security was
tight – it still is – but the experiment worked, reclaiming this part
of Lapa for fun. When I visited, the dance oor was busy, the band
was pumping out samba and people were hanging over the internal
balconies laughing and drinking. It was everything I had imagined
when I rst picked up my ticket for Rio.
When all this is nished: when they’ve renamed the General; put
up a plaque at Travessa Do Comercio; opened more places like Rio
Scenarium; and, most importantly, got rid of that awful elevated
highway, Rio is truly going to be Cidade Maravilhosa. It will always
have its eyesores. The infamous Cathedral Sao Sebastiao do Rio de
Janeiro (built 1964-79) has been voted one of the ugliest buildings in
South America. Standing 75m high, it looks like a giant furnace out
of Blade Runner and can be picked out, clearly, from the summit of
Morro da Urca.
If Professor Ramos had seen that, he may not have bothered to
complete his bold cable-car initiative. But such mistakes are in the
past. Rio is now heading in the right direction. I can’t wait to see it
once it’s nished.
Rio | BRazil
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I m a g e s : C o r b i s / A r a b i a n E y e
T e x t : A d r i a n M o u r b y / T h e I n d e p e n d e n t / T h e I n t e r v i e w P e o p l e
January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 43
Star Struck
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44 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller
Star Struck From volcanoes and ancient forests to the stars in the night sky, there’splenty to lure adventurous families to the steep little island of La Palma
“The moon’s all splodgy.” Our road-trip to admire the
constellations above La Palma should have been an
enlightening one. After all, this is the place where,
way back in 1988, the Spanish government enacted
legislation to protect the night skies. No industry above 1,500m is
allowed on the steep sides of this tiny Canary Island; street lights
glow orange rather than white at night; electro-magnetic interference
is strictly controlled. The edict even extends to the north coast of
neighbouring Tenerife, which is visible from the eastern shores of
La Palma and a potential nuisance when it comes to light emissions.
The reason for this? A huddle of star-gazing scientists who lurk with
their telescopes near the rim of the Caldera de Taburiente, the huge
crater that dominates the island. They’re trying to discover the secrets
of the universe, you see. And for that they need dark. Lots of dark.
But dark wasn’t our problem. The Spanish government has otherthings to worry about these days, and heavy clouds in the Canaries
may well be beyond its remit. Nevertheless, inclement weather
can be a blight for amateur astronomers. Two evenings of phone
conversations with a very patient Carmelo González Rodríguez from
local company Astrotour had elicited the same response: there was
no point venturing out with a telescope.
“It is dicult to predict, particularly at this time of year,” said
Carmelo. If he’d been an astrologer rather than an astronomer, he’d
probably have suggested that our stars weren’t quite in alignment.
Neither fate nor fact was enough to deter us. That night, in the
hope that meteorological conditions would improve, I drove my family
westwards from the seaside resort of Los Cancajos to the isolated
Llano del Jablo viewpoint, high above the small town of El Paso. Upon
arrival – and having disturbed an amorous couple who drove their
steamed-up Renault away in rather a hurry – we discovered a sign
pointing to Polaris (431 light years away) and a curious wooden wheel
which could be rotated to conrm the names of the constellations,
had they been visible. Sadly Carmelo’s advice proved accurate. White
cloud obscured the Milky Way. Even the moon was, as my six-year-old
son pointed out, splodgy.
One of the challenges La Palma faces as a tourist destination isthat very little, including the skies above, is laid out for you on a plate.
Benign weather is the reason many families visit the Canary Islands,
and last year the prospect of year-round sunshine drew 1.44 million
British holidaymakers to Tenerife, the largest island in the archipelago.
La Palma, a third of Tenerife’s size, pulled in just 1 per cent of that
total, a mere 14,876 UK visitors.
January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 44
Star Struck | canary ISlandS
Opening page: GTC Telescope.
This page, from top:
Timanfaya National Park;
Las Palmas.
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 45
La Palma’s relatively high rainfall delivers an alluringly verdant
landscape, but it no doubt plays a part in the island’s isolation from
mass-market tourism. As does the island’s imposing topography. It’s
one of the steepest in the world, the northern half jutting ercely from
the Atlantic. The route from the capital, Santa Cruz, along the LP-4
road to the Institute of Astrophysics observatory and beyond to the
island’s highest point, the epic Roque de los Muchachos (2,423m),
is dramatic. It passes through pine forest and lava elds on its journey
above the clouds. But it’s also tortuous: a tightly knotted ribbon of
hairpin bends and switchbacks.
In La Palma you won’t nd the tourist-friendly beaches of Tenerife’s
Playa de las Americas and Los Cristianos, dressed in imported
white sand. Instead, the sand here is volcanic and black – which can
provide an alarming contrast if you’ve neglected your tan. There’s
no equivalent of thrill-a-minute water parks, no soothingly chic
spa complexes. The majority of the coastal real estate is given over
to banana plantations rather than hotels. Four-fths of La Palma’s
income comes from the crop, the plants themselves corralled behind
walls and within polythene tents like hungry Trids.
But, of course, these are all reasons to visit La Palma, rather than
stay away. A visit here is, literally, a chance to be one in a hundred,
rather than one of the multitude.
Los Cancajos is a tidy if unremarkable throng of apartments and
aparthotels that lies just south of Santa Cruz. It’s the only substantial
tourist town on the east coast (La Palma’s sole all-inclusive complex,
The Princess, is tucked away down on the south-west shore). The
resort contains a few restaurants and shops and a ne stretch of
beach. Here cube-like blocks of black concrete have been placed
alongside the lava as shelter from Atlantic swells – as if the organic
shapes of the coast have given way to a parallel, pixelated version.
It was immediately clear that a lack of water parks would be no
deterrent to the children’s enjoyment of La Palma. An afternoon spent
building black sandcastles was followed by a snorkelling session in an
Atlantic Ocean that was still relatively warm even at the beginning
of November.
Our hotel, the Hacienda San Jorge, possessed the pre-eminent
position in Los Cancajos, its back door leading straight to the beach.
Inside, it was arranged around four sides of a tropical garden that
contained exotic ora, including a couple of examples of the Canary
Islands’ iconic Dragon Trees which looked disarmingly like huge
loo-brushes.
The rooms here – comfortable rather than stylish – each come with
a balcony and have tiny kitchens for those intent on self-catering.
Alternatively, copious buet dinners are oered in the long dining
room, or under the shade of a huge rubber tree (cus elastica
according to one of the handy botanical plaques), with views of
the salt-water swimming pool. The pink and yellow buildings are
pleasantly low-rise and low-key, the sta hugely friendly and obliging
– and the clientèle is made up almost exclusively of German hikers.
Las Palmas.
‘More than 1,000km
of marked trails runthrough these wildly
varying landscapes, the
majority comprising
challenging treks’
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46 Janu ary 2012Kanoo World Traveller
‘the sand here is volcanic and black – which can provide
an alarming contrast if you’ve neglected your tan’
Star Struck | canary ISlandS
Finally, you trek down the side of a ravine, along an empty river bed
Opposite page, clockwise
from top: Pic del Teide
volcano; A Canary Island
beach; Erupting Geyser at
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 47
Hiking is La Palma’s big secret. Or at least it’s a big secret from
everyone except the Germans. The entire island was declared a World
Biosphere Reserve in 2002, oering protection to areas including pine
forest, myrtle heath, lava elds and the striking rock formations of the
Caldera de Taburiente itself.
More than 1,000km of marked trails run through these wildly
varying landscapes, the majority comprising challenging treks
through the mountainous interior. Many require either the services of
a guide or a taxi to get you back to your starting point (various “taxi
stops” are marked throughout the island, so that you can arrange a
ride home).
Perhaps the most striking terrain of all is the Bosque de Los Tiles
in the north-east, a primeval strip of ancient laurel forest positioned
at just the point where the trade winds dump their moisture on the
island. Heavy with damp, dark undergrowth and set round a series
of deep ravines, it’s the sort of place where dinosaurs probably still
roam, ploughing through the greenery and quietly digesting tourists.
The perfect place for a brisk walk, I thought.
The best-known trek here is the walk to the Marcos and Cordero
springs which, for reasons that later became clear, begins with a taxi
ride. Slightly resentfully, I handed over €60 to a cigar-chomping driver
at the visitor centre, so that the four of us could cram into the back of
his ancient 4x4 minivan alongside a Spanish and German couple.
I assumed, naively, that we’d be in for a brief trip up a hill, from
where we would potter back down through the rainforest. Fifty
minutes later, having jostled our way over the steepest, most
pot-holed track I have ever endured, we reached the starting point
for our walk. In the process our driver had virtually expired in t of
hawking, snorting and violent expectoration, while his vehicle had
fared little better. Our children, meanwhile, had fallen asleep on the
back seat, lulled by all the furious juddering. Sixty euros well spent.
The journey through Los Tiles is exhilarating and exhausting in
almost equal measure. It starts r ight among the clouds, passing
beside the tiny channel of water that runs from the mountain springs.
Then it takes in a series of 12 head-height, pitch-black, damp tunnels
(bring a torch) before hikers are required to clamber and crouch their
way through a nal water-lled conduit at the base of a cascade.
It’s all quite an adventurous undertaking when you’re travelling with
a six-year-old and his nine-year-old brother.
lled with boulders and back through a narrow valley of vast ferns and
slender laurel branches. The last viewpoint at Topo de las Barandas is
like a still from Jurassic Park: a basin of limitless green. It’s not family
friendly – the hike took us ve hours and we arrived back hot, wet and
hungry – but it’s certainly exciting.
Of course, no one wants to be intrepid every day. We spent happy
hours at La Fajana Piscinas in the north of the island, where low-lying
lava has been tastefully enhanced with concrete to construct sheltered
pools fed by the Atlantic Ocean. At high tide it’s an unnerving place to
swim, as waves crash over the low barriers. The pools at Charco Azul,
just to the south, are arguably even more picturesque, hemmed by
phalanxes of banana plants.
Near El Pilar, we came across Acropark, a high-ropes course which
had opened just a week earlier, tucked among pine trees. There
were no other guests when we visited, so the boys were allowed to
scamper around it twice, immediately becoming experts at using the
life-preserving carabiner.
Close by, a visitor centre marks the beginning of one of the greatest
hikes on the island, the Ruta de los Volcánes (Volcano Route). This
runs down the island’s centre to the southern tip, a march across a
crater-strewn landscape that was far beyond our capabilities. Instead
we attempted our own mini-version. We drove south to Fuencaliente
and took a walk along the r im of the Volcá San Antonio, the interior of
which was prickled with young pines.
Urged on by our children, we then mounted Marina and Celia,
two local camels, who conveyed us all to a viewpoint overlooking
the impressive Volcá Teneguía, which lies just to the south. In 1971,
Teneguía was the scene of La Palma’s last eruption, as the volcano
sent streams of lava down towards the coast, adding a few extra acres
of banana-friendly terrain to the island’s outline in the process.
We even managed a dose of civilisation, buying €1.30 bus tickets
for the 15-minute journey from Los Canjacos to Santa Cruz. Here
a pedestrianised, cobbled main street runs past smart shops, and
slender alleyways reveal glimpses of the ocean. Despite being the
capital city, Santa Cruz is a modest sort of place, its pleasant colonial
core defended from urban sprawl by the volcanic crater that rises
behind the steeply-raked streets.
But something drew us back to La Palma’s heart. From the national
park visitor centre, the road winds upwards to the Mirador de la
Cumbrecita, a saddle of land overlooking the 8km-wide indentation
of the Caldera de Taburiente. From here, an hour-long walk to the
viewpoints of Los Roques and Lomo de las Chozas reveals a lost world
shielded by rock walls and vivid with the bright green of Canarian
pines, a plunging scoop so vast that it traps its own clouds.
We visited twice, once at the beginning of our stay and once at the
end, striding along forest paths coated in pine needles, the views of
the Caldera spread out below us.
As for our attempt to see the rest of the universe, in the end there
was no need for that night-time drive across La Palma. The skies
nally cleared at around midnight – and from the balcony of the
Hacienda San Jorge, I looked up to see a cloudless sky glittering with
light. Our stars had nally aligned.
Timanfaya National Park.
I m a g e s : C o r b i s / A r a b i a n E y e ; O c i a l T o u r i s t O c e o f t h e C a n a r i e s
T e x t : T h e I n d e p e n d
e n t
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Where the Wildthings are
How man’s hunt of the Big Five led to diminishing species, spawnedspecialist sanctuaries and - happily for us - luxury lodges for the modern jet set.
Laura Binder follows the tail of a safari evolution...
48 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller
Where the Wild things are | Kenya
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As morning reared its head, my travel
companion and I sat down, as always,
to a breakast o cofee, muesli and
eggs. Except, that was as normal as this
particular morning got. For as we sat
enjoying our ood, it became apparent
that we had a dining companion: what started as a large,
thickly-lashed, unblinking eye in my peripheral, became
a long, elegant neck prying through a tall window next
to me, beore a grey tongue emerged, wrapping its way
around the contents o my hand.
Said tongue belonged to a Rothschild girafe, and this
marked the beginning o my rst stop in East Arica;
Girafe Manor, a colonial manor house in Nairobi’s suburb
o Langata. It’s an experience not to be snifed at – and
it sure does wake you up in the morning. Far rom
domesticated pets, though, (with names like Daisy, Betty
and Laura, it’s easy to orget) every inch o the giant’s
patchwork-skin is wild animal – as I’m reminded on a
tour o the ivy-clad bolthole. “I a girafe comes up to the
house, walk slowly inside or, i you get stuck, make sure
you have a piece o garden urniture between you both
– girafes can run 30mph and kill a lion with one kick.”
Right, then.
January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 49
It was this beautiul animal’s dwindling status on the
endangered species list that prompted Girafe Manor’s
owners – Betty and Jock Leslie-Melville – to use it as a
breeding ground on which to rear and reintroduce the
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50 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller
Rothschild to the wild – an efort that began in the 1970s
and continues today using unds rom this private home-
turned boutique hotel. (And, with a 25% survival rate ocalves, it’s a harder process than you might think.)
It’s with some guilt-ree comort, then, that you can
while away the day at this grand 1930s property knowing
you’re contributing to the greater (girafe) good. So
novel is the experience that you may be tempted, as I
was, not to leave its walls, rather, sit on the grass deck
with a tome rom the manor’s library, drink in hand and
girafes roaming beore you (though don’t expect to get
any actual reading done). Perecting the art o ‘just being’couldn’t be easier.
When the next morning rolled in I went to the window,
held my breath, and drew back the curtains o my
Scottish hunting lodge-style suite (green/red abrics,
mammoth bed, antique urniture) in the hope o meeting
Opening page: Zebra
and Waterbuck graze.
This page, clockwise
from top; Rhino and her
calf; Samburu people;
Dik-dik; Grey Crowned
Crane. Opposite page;
African elephants on
Samburu ground.
Where the Wild things are | Kenya
soaring thatched roos, and silenced by the view rom its
foor-to-ceiling glass windows, where dainty zebra and
antelope played. With a log re in the bedroom (at an
elevation o over 6,000 eet, nights are pleasantly chilly);
h h ( l h t b th ll
those heavy-lashed eyes again – I did. It never tires. The
only thing that could drag me away was the lure o the
next dot on my map; Laikipia, to a saari lodge with its
own conservational tale. To reach it, I orwent a more
i bl 30 i t h t fi ht h d i
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 51
huge open shower (surely enough room to bathe a small
herd?) and gloriously-deep tub, all next to wraparound
windows, the best point rom which to spy the wildlietakes some thought.
It’s a design that’s mimicked on a larger scale back
at Solio’s beautiully cosy main lodge (the setting o
daily, candle-lit meals o truly delicious, home-cooked
are) where a couple o other guests invited me to
make my rst steps in to the wild or a bush brunch. We
delved in to endless greenery to nd a table – manned
by waiters – awaiting our arrival, set up with a east-
worthy spread o ruity salads, pesto pasta, meats andKenyan cheese. It’s here that I met Mark, a seemingly
quintessential Englishman who is, in act, a game guide
and ourth-generation Kenyan. “O course there was a
time the original owner’s wie wouldn’t let a soul on the
land,” he told me, “it was just or her and her riends
only.” The land (all 17,500 acres o it) was sold in 1965 to
a Texan, Courtland Paret, who made his ortune rom
chewing gum and had a penchant or hunting – shooting
everything on the land, including its last rhino. HisFrench wie, however, had a passion or conservation
and persuaded him to put all o the swamp areas aside
as a sanctuary. “From there, it became the rst private
sanctuary in the country; most likely in the world,”
recounted Mark.
Ater being granted permission to look ater game,
Paret caught rhino, as did another prominent hunting
amily, the Carr-Hartleys, who captured (by lasso, no less)
80 white rhino rom South Arica and brought them toSolio. “They were let undisturbed and bred incredibly
amicable 30-minute charter fight or a ve-hour drive
and glimpse o the ‘real Kenya’. My driver, Kenyan-born
Michael, narrated the simple scenes we passed; localpeople tending to their modest shack-like homes; tin
shops aectionately named in candy coloured paints;
sprawling coee arms and, every now and then, a fash
o brilliant purple and coral blossoms parading through a
mass o green trees.
When I woke up rom a snooze, we were on o-road
territory, somewhere between Mount Kenya and the
rolling peaks o the Aberdares. But, ater asking whether
we were lost (and wondering whether that was a lionrustling in the tall grasses) we emerged at Solio Lodge,
to a smiling sta and a simple, heart-warming greeting:
‘welcome home’. Here, my new abode was a luxurious,
modern cottage (one o just six that dot a slice o the
Solio Game Reserve) and, inside, I was dwared by
‘Today Solio Lodge is all) an uncontained giggle from Blackie indicated we
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52 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller
Today, Solio Lodge is
ofcially the best place in
the continent to spot both
black and white rhino in
their natural habitat’
well,” Mark recalled, “they went on to restock many of the
reserves across Africa.” Today, Solio Lodge is ocially the
best place in the continent to spot both black and white
rhino in their natural habitat – a source of excitement
for my partner, a second-time safari-goer who was yet
to spot the muscular mammal. “Kenya has rhino today, I
believe, because of this particular lodge,” armed Mark.
With the Parfet and Carr-Hartley legacies now in
the hands of sons Ed Parfet and Mikey Carr-Hartley, Ed
consented to Mikey’s grand designs for Solio Lodge little
more than one year ago. And it’s a venue that’s proved
good enough to draw even the most seasoned safari-
goers; like my other lunch companion, ‘Midgie’, a pint-
sized eighty-something whose frame cheats the reality;
she’s a real powerhouse. This is a woman who, before
the 1977 hunting ban, tracked and shot every one of the
Big Five (lion, leopard, elephant, water bualo, rhino). Of
course, while the roaming mammals are now safe from
professional trophy hunters, the rhino remains under
threat from poachers who trade its valuable horn on the
black market; a product that can reach one-and-a-half
times the amount of gold, around $60,000 per kilo. “The
future now is a bleak one – the Chinese have moved in in
a big way, and the ivory trade is up 20%,” said a solemn
Mark. “If it continues, it’s feasible they could be wiped
out in months. In the meantime, it’s little places like this
that can draw money in, put rangers in place and not only
secure the future of the rhino, but wildlife in the main.”
It was time for me to see the real thing: and there were
two men who were going to help me do it. Cue Fred at the
wheel of our stellar 4x4, a former teacher and Masai Mara
guide (think of Morgan Freeman’s calming aura and dulcet
tones and you’re on the right track) and our young spotter
‘Blackie’, hailing from one of the country’s 42 tribes and
able to spot a monkey at a thousand paces (how, I’m still
baed). Binoculars at the ready and camel-hued outts
donned, we headed in to the Solio Game Reserve. I was
primed for a long day, but, within half-an-hour we were
surrounded: rhino. Girae. Warthogs. Zebra. Waterbuck.It was like being dropped in to a real-life Disney lm.
Surmising that I couldn’t tell the dierence between
a black and white rhino, (they’re the same colour, after
were in the company of the more aggressive black rhino.
“We have been chased for miles by one before,” smiled
Fred, “that’s an easy way to tell the dierence!” Sturdy,
bulbous, dinosaur-like, it was both amazing and a force
to be reckoned with.
Each drive revealed a new surprise: sleeping lionesses
and her cubs, all-but-concealed in the sand-hued grass;
sleek cheetahs that stalked the grounds by nightfall;
two mighty rhino sparring in a valiant eort to protect
their brood; girae ambling amid rhino like a scene
from Jurassic Park (my travelling companion’s incessant
humming of the theme tune did, admittedly, seem apt);
and lines of comical warthog zipping along the ground,
tails erect like antennae. “They do this by nature, so that
the babies may spot their mothers in the long grass,”
Fred told me. Unfortunately, others were fond followers
of the hairy hogs, too: “To the lions, they are a delicacy,”
he chuckled.
Three days on, my partner and I left what had become
a home-from-home, for the north Kenyan pastures of
Samburu. The 30-minute ight from Solio’s private
airstrip (an irresistible prospect second time around),
was a headturning trip: crossing the Equator, the lush
green plains of Solio morphed in to a tapestry of coral,
orange, gold and rust hues, before we touched down to
hot, dry climes and a vast sand-covered wilderness: a
genuinely soul-stirring sight. My Samburu guide, Andrew,
was the man at the wheel here, shrouded tip-to-toe in
traditional tribal dress; bright blue and red cloths and a
multitude of beads and jewellery to make a girl jealous
(try as I might, he wouldn’t part with them).
Touring rocky roads in an open-sided 4x4 toward
Mount Kenya’s jagged peak and over the banks of the
Ewaso Nyiro River, which runs through the region like a
pulse, gave a glimpse of another world: no barriers, but
raw, natural land interrupted only by wandering locals
and villages where modest huts form circles, children
play barefoot and young boys are tasked with herding
the family’s livelihood; bleating goats. It ’s with mutualcuriosity that I, they, waved and smiled at every passing.
Such drives were laced with Andrew’s tales; a man
who’s managed to unwittingly walk in to the path of
a lioness and her cubs (the soul provocation for attacks
on humans, I learned), be chased by a water bualo
(“it threw our friend up in to a tree”) and come
face-to-face with a leopard protecting its young (“ I have
never seen such fury, I thought ‘that’s it, I’m gone’.”)
Whether such close encounters are a quality you wantin a guide, I couldn’t decide. Nonetheless, he was a man
of experience and, in response to my longing to see an
elephant, trumped all my expectations.
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54 Januar y 2012Kanoo World Traveller
Where the Wild things are | Kenya
Previous page, top to
bottom: Solio Lodge;
A tented suite and
plunge pool at Sasaab.
Opposite page: A
R th hild i f t
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 55
The rst came in Dumbo-like orm o a young pup,
ambling on big, fat eet through thickets o leaves, with
a toddler-like sway. Within minutes, not one, but ve,
10, 20 or more o every size emerged on the tail o the
next, beore we were driving as part o the herd. It was
an experience uelled by equal measures o jaw-dropping
wonder and adrenalin. When the car engine stopped,
I turned to see why: a bull, the herd’s protector, sizing up
our vehicle. Instinctively, we ell utterly quiet. It moved,slowly, curiously to the side o the car, where I was sat,
at exact eye-level with its deeply-lined, grey ace.
Hands-over-mouth, heart-beating hard, I realised just
a ew steps orward would bring his huge, ivory tusks or
prying, muscular trunk through the car’s open side. Ater
a ew minutes (I held my breath or each), he moved on,
pausing to scratch an itch – which entailed straddling an
entire tree and almost fooring it in the process. Andrew
breathed a heavy sigh o relie – always a good sign. “I he
had taken exception to us, he would have just fipped the
car,” he said. Right, then. Still, it was another memorable
way to start a day.
Such exhilaration was challenged only by our arrival
to the stunning Sasaab; another lodge touched by the
talents o its owner, Mikey Carr-Hartley. This place has
real wow actor. Its main, Moroccan-style lodge unravels
beneath pillars, etched with mother-o-pearl, and
its elevation aords priceless vistas o the Samburu plains
and amous river (a sight I later drank-in rom the lodge’s
turquoise innity pool). My ‘room’, meanwhile, brought a
new meaning to ‘posh camping’: immersed in the rugged
landscape, I climbed up a rocky pathway to set oot on its
white stone foor, open walls all around, and a our-poster
bed shrouded by nets. But it was the private plunge pool
that provoked a delighted gasp – the perect place to
seek relie rom the sun, and witness elephants crossing
the river while you’re at it.
Like those lodges that had gone beore it, Sasaab
marries its rened luxury with a more responsible
agenda: aiding the conservation o the Grevy zebra
(an animal that’s orgone the most drastic drop o any
Arican mammal) and vulnerable lions, as well as the
region’s indigenous people through community projects
unded by guests. Schools benet rom stays with new
desks, art supplies, and learning materials; women
are given a livelihood making bracelets and beaded
bottle covers or the git shop; and work with Westgate
Community Conservancy health care projects brings
vital preventative programmes to ruitition. In act, youcan visit a local school – as I did, sat perched on a bench
at the back o a maths class, amid beautiul, wide-eyed
children.
It’s a contrast to my ormer stays in Nairobi and
Laikipia, where I elt ar rom a real, local way o lie, and a
contrast that continued in the region’s wildlie. “Samburu
land has its own special Big Five,” Andrew told me. “Beisa
oryx, Reticulated girae, Grevy’s zebra, Gerenuk and
Somali ostrich.” Fresh nds that injected new anticipation
in to our next game drives where, in addition, I marvelled
at the almost mythical-looking Dik-diks – tiny deer-like
creatures, with stubs or horns, huge black eyes and the
twitching nose o an anteater. “They pair or lie, so you
will always see them in twos,” Andrew told me, “but when
one dies, the other will pass rom stress; a broken heart.”
It’s such creatures, which look plucked rom airytales
and birds – some in electric blue hues, others with yellow,
eather-duster like tuts and ducks with red-striped aces
– that make saaris here so unique.
Parking up in yet another spectacular setting – by the
river’s edge, with a breakast t or a king and, across
the water, the sight o dozens o monkeys, babies and
all, scampering along in tribe-like style – proved yet
another lump-in-the-throat moment. It’s this raw, natural
landscape that no doubt rst drew the British to colonise
Kenya; that enticed people to take home trophies o its
astounding lie; that prompts generations to ght or its
species; and what makes these evolving lodges an
once-in-a-lietime experience. Kenya, we agreed,
sat there in the bush, gets under your skin. I m a g e s : R o b i n
M o o r e / T h e S a f a r i C o l l e c t i o n
O p e n i n g i m a g e
o n l y : C o r b i s / A r a b i a n E y e
‘what started as a large, thickly-lashed, unblinking eye in my peripheral,
became a long, elegant neck prying through a tall window next to me...’
Rothschild girafe at
Girafe Manor.
The
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ForgoTTeNCiTyValencia has sat in the shadow of Barcelona
and Madrid for far too long. That’s why it
has got such an authentic atmosphere
56 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller
The ForgoTTen ciTy | Valencia
Opening page: City Hall
Square. This page: Plaza
de la Virgen.
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January2012Kanoo World Traveller57
WhyisitthatValencianeverentersourthoughts
whenwethinkofSpain?Barcelona,yes.Madrid,
certainly,butValencia?Inmorethantwo
decadesofracingaroundthemajorcitiesof
EuropeSpain’sthirdcityhasbarelyregistered
onmyradar.MyfriendStephenhasbeenlivingherefornearlythree
yearsandheisequallypuzzled.“Valenciahasaverylowproleand
Idon’tunderstandwhy,”hesays.“It’sbeenallaboutthebuzzof
Barcelona,Madridandothercities.”Stephenandhispartner,Claire,
chosetomovetothecityonthebasisofqualityoflifefortheir
youngfamily.“Obviously,numberoneisthemicro-climate.Having
thebeach,thesea,300daysofsun–youcan’thelpbutgoaround
withasmileonyourface.”
Thebeachesarearevelation.ThebroadgoldenswathesofLas
ArenasandLaMalvarossastretchfor3kmupfromtheport,seemingly
tothehorizon.TheyhavethesweepandgenerosityofMiamiBeach.
Itishardtoimaginethembecomingover-crowded.Ican’tthinkofa
citybeachinEuropethatcompares;upthecoast,Barcelona’smuch
celebratedPortOlimpicseafrontiscertainlypopularbutislargely
articial.Valencia’sbeachesarelessshowy,lessdevelopedandseem
amoreorganicpartofthecity.
Thestringofcafesandpaellarestaurantsthatfringethebeachare
busywithfamilies,gettingtheirngersstainedwithsaronasthey
pickthoughmariscosandchickenbones.Anaccordionistwandersby,
scatteringlittlemelodies.Amidtsofgiggles,agroupofcomfortably
upholsteredwomeneggeachotherontodanceinformationonthe
pavedpromenade.
Valenciahasbeenslowtograspthetransformativeeectthat
internationalsportingeventscanhave.The1992BarcelonaOlympics
showedtheway,butitwasanother15yearsbeforeValenciacame
lookingforthesportinglimelight.ThecityhostedtheAmerica’sCup
in2007andhasbeenhometoFormulaOne’sEuropeanGrandPrix
since2008.Thoughbotheventshavecontributedtoraisingprole
andcapacity,thepastfouryearshavealsocoincidedwithageneral
downturnintourismtoSpain.Valenciastillawaitsthegoldrush.
However,allthatsimplymeansoneofthegreatcitiesofEuropeis
stillinastonishinglypristinecondition.ThemostcommonriIpickup
fromvisitors,localsandforeignexpatsalikeisthatValenciaremains
essentiallySpanish.TheSpanishwaycan,ofcourse,bebeguiling,but
Ilearnsoonenoughitcanalsobebull-headed.
LaLonjadelaSeda(theSilkExchange),aUnescoWorldHeritage
Site,isastunningexampleoflateGothicexuberance–theSalade
‘The beaches are a
revelation. The broad
golden swathes of
Las Arenas and La
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Las Arenas and La
Malvarossa stretchseemingly to the horizon’
58 January 2012Kanoo World Traveller
The ForgoTTen ciTy | Valencia
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 59
Opposite page, clockwise
from top left: Plaza del
Ayuntamiento; Valencian
prawns; Plaza de Toros;
Team Headquarters
at Port America’s Cup.
F ll i P l d
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60 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller
Contratacion, with its soaring candy-twist pillars, is as imposing as the
interior of any medieval cathedral. La Lonja is on every visitor’s must-
do list. I enter at 1.45pm and, after a few minutes in the grand Sala,
I try to make my way to the rest of the building. A hatchet-faced
ocial blocks my access. It’s the witching hour – 2pm – siesta.
She will not be moved. No pasaran. “It’s bureaucracy; it’s arrogance;
it’s typically Spanish,” says Stephen with feeling. “There’s still the‘I can’t do this – it’s siesta time. Come back at ve’.”
As it happens, I can’t come back at ve and have to be content
with admiring the exterior – which has its consolations. The medieval
stone masons were determined to prick the grandiosity of the
architecture with a scatological sense of humour, channeled through
the playful gargoyles.
Cheerful irreverence is also on display in the Calle del Trench
nearby. A shop called The Dog’s Cojones is vending T-shirts two
doors from a general store called Lovely Family. Across the road ashop front is occupied by multiple stockinged mannequin legs, while
another oers devotional plaster cherubs and, er, water lters – it is
retail anarchy.
Lunch is al fresco at Ocho y Medio in Plaza Lope de Vega – it
specialises in superior paellas and surreal menus. One of the dishes
is rendered in English as ‘Paella with Stroke’. I play safe and opt
for ‘Smooth Rice with Chick and Black True’, which turns up as a
risotto with baby pigeon. There is so much to love in these Valencian
improvisations and raw edges that I have forgotten my frustration.Munching on baby pigeon (which tastes surprisingly livery) my
reveries are interrupted by a large tour group from a cruise liner. The
guide barks a commentary at them through a loud hailer completely
leaching the little plaza of its sleepy charm. As they are marshalled
out of the square, the group seems like a premonition.
Valencia suered a great ood in 1957, when the River Turia caused
havoc in the city. The authorities responded by re-routing the water
course out of town. The dead river bed was nally reinvented in 1980
as a green ribbon running for 9km through the city. Locals still refer
to it as the ‘River’ – and in a sense it still ows, with formal gardensmorphing into forested glades, playing elds, children’s adventure
playgrounds and picnic venues as it progresses through the city.
The Turia Gardens are bookended by two of Valencia’s most
striking attractions. At the eastern end is the City of Arts and Sciences,
the sprawling cultural complex designed by the city’s most famous
son, the architect Santiago Calatrava. The buildings demand visual
metaphors – a swan, an armadillo, a stegosaur, a giant eye, a whale
ribcage, a grove of palms and a harp. It is a amboyant theme
park of civic space containing an opera house, a science museum,a planetarium and Europe’s largest aquarium. It is a great adventure
in itself and requires another weekend to see it properly.
At the other end of the Turia is the Bioparc; it is nominally a zoo,
but that’s like saying an F1 Grand Prix is just a car race. It occupies
100,000sq m and brings Africa to the heart of the urban sprawl. Not
just African animals but entire ecosystems. Species are grouped
together as you might nd them on the great plains – zebras, impalas,
blesbok, marabous, crowned cranes and giraes all roam the one
hectare savannah enclosure together.Some vistas are engineered to make it appear as though predators
are sharing the same spaces as their prey. Lions prowl within yards
of impalas with no discernible fences or bars. To avoid tears before
‘The string o caes and paella restaurants that ringe the beach
are busy with amilies, getting their ngers stained with safron
as they pick though mariscos’
Following page: Palau de
las Arts Reina Soa in the
City of Arts and Sciences.
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62 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller
The ForgoTTen ciTy | Valencia
‘The buildings demand
visual metaphors –
a swan, an armadillo,
a stegosaur, a giant eye,
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 63
I m a g e s : C o r b i s / A r a b i a n E y e ; P h o t o l i b r a r y ; S h u t t e r s t o c k
T e x t : S a n k h a G u h a / T h e I n d e p e n d e n t / T h e I n t e r v i e w P e o p l e
bedtime animals are kept in their enclosures through
cleverly concealed ditches and ‘natural’ barriers such as
rock walls and water obstacles.
It may be the Bioparc’s cleverest illusion that the
animals seem extraordinarily content. A baby warthog
leaps and jinks with joy beore digging holes under a
boulder; chimps are totally engrossed in grooming each
other; elephants roll magisterially across a colossal
enclosure eaturing en-suite waterall and a ‘orest’ oconcrete baobab trees; ringtailed lemurs are ascinated
by the visitors wandering through their Madagascar – so
much so it’s hard to distinguish who is watching whom.
Feeding time is one o the undoubted highlights
o lie in the city. It is difcult to eat badly and only a
brave oreign che would consider setting up shop here.
German incomer Bernd Knoller opened his rst restaurant
in the city nearly two decades ago. Three years ago, his
Ri Restaurant received the recognition o a Michelinstar. “I cook Valencian ood,” he insists, “but I cook my
Valencian ood.”
The rst course at dinner sets the bar high; chilled
oyster served with a warm oyster mayonnaise topped
with a granita o seaweed. I suspect it’s designed to
silence sceptics in one mouthul. Other dishes that lean
on Valencian traditions include a salad o chipirones
(small squid), aïoli, morel mushrooms and watercress
and a course that is billed only as ‘Dirty Rice’. The lastis a delicate risotto avoured with sh stock and locally
sourced olive oil (“to sweeten it”) and dusted with
desiccated squid ink.
The shy ingredients taste as i they were swimming
around just hours ago. And indeed they were. “I buy
at the sh auction down in the port,” says Bernd with
inectious enthusiasm. “It’s late in the aternoon every
day. It’s very mad – like a school class with very upset
kids. I like it very much.”I like it too. And amid the clatter o lives being lived
well – and the sunshine, squid and siestas – there will be
an incipient smile on most aces.
a whale ribcage, a groveof palms and a harp’
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64 Kanoo World Traveller May 2011
city slickers
Prices are per person (starting from), sharing a twin room and in US Dollars.
Prices are subject to availability and based on a minimum number of nights stay as specied above.
Price includes accommodation for specied nights with meals and return airport transfers (where mentioned).
Package oers include a detailed itinerary with sightseeing tours.
These rates are applicable during January 01 till March 31, 2012.
More details and other information are available upon request.Surcharge may apply for any arrival/departure airport transfers between 2000-0600hrs.
All prices are subject to change at any time without prior notice, Kanoo Holidays terms and conditions apply to all bookings.
Explore the bright lights and sights of one of these thriving metropolis’
DESTINATIONS USD REMARKS
BAHrAin (3 nigHTS & 4 DAS) 390 BreAKfAST
DUBAi (3 nigHTS & 4 DAS) 260 BreAKfAST & TrAnSferS
MAlDiveS (4 nigHTS & 5 DAS) 900 PAcKAge
SingAPore (4 nigHTS & 5 DAS) 530 PAcKAge
MAlASiA – KUAlA lUMPUr
(4 nigHTS & 5 DAS) 345 PAcKAge
inDiA – golDern TriAngle
(6 nigHTS & 7 DAS)600 PAcKAge
Sri lAnKA (4 nigHTS & 5 DAS) 480 PAcKAge
greece – ATHenS
(4 nigHTS & 5 DAS)640 PAcKAge
TUrKe – iSTAnBUl
(4 nigHTS & 5 DAS)400 PAcKAge
THAilAnD – BAngKoK(4 nigHTS & 5 DAS)
425 PAcKAge
ConCieRGemozambique | ToKyo | sT peTeRsbuRG | maldives
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January 2012 K Wr Trr 65
How do I reach the island?
By private charter from Dar-es-Salaam in Tanzania or Pemba in
Mozambique: you’ll cruise overland, over the Rofuma River on the Tanzania/
Mozambique borders, before going to Mocimboa de Praia to clear customsand then taking a stunning 10 minute ight towards Vamizi, ying low over
the archipelago where you’ll see pods of dolphins, turtles and ying sh.
What will I nd when I touch down?
Fourteen individual, private sea-facing villas, strung along one of the world’s
nest beaches. Their interiors are inuenced by local culture and design, in
the form of locally-sourced textiles and fabrics and bespoke furniture made
on the island, like our Swahili-style daybeds and sun loungers.
How would you suggest I spend my days here?
Vamizi is not just a beach; there’s truly something for everyone. You can
choose from a range of activities, from world-class diving and shing to
snorkelling, sailing and kayaking or dhow sailing and beach walks. You can
even get involved in conservation programmes, be it whale watching or
releasing turtles into the wild. But, if all that sounds too strenuous, relax ona sunbed with a good book and listen to the chatter of Samango monkeys.
Is there anything I can do away from the island?
Overnight trips to Ibo Island are possible (though guests rarely want to
leave here); a historic place that’s home to pristine beaches and where you
can take a cultural tour of the isle.
Where are the best spots to savour the fruits of the region?
Our main restaurant serves surf-fresh seafood daily. Dining can be a candle-lit dinner on the beach, picnics or in-villa dining, with classics like barbecued
Mozambican prawns and yellow n tuna sashimi. vamizi.com
mel sTaley, vamizi island, mozambique
the 30 second concierge
visit
DelveintoJapan’scapital,saysJadeBremner,andexperiencealandscape
ToKyo
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66January2012Kan Wrld Traveller
Amidanultra-modernskyline,centuries
ofhistoryandover30millionJapanese
natives,you’relikelytowitnessbusinessmen
gobblingsushiforbreakfast;‘Cosplayers’
reenactingbattlesinthecity’sparks;
slot-machinejunkieswastingdaysonend
inPachinkoparlours(akaarcades);and
wannabestarletsquiteliterallysingingtheir
heartsoutinan‘emptyorchestra’(karaoke
booths–there’sstacksofthem).InTokyo
theadventureneverends,andthosewho
darecantryanythingfromanightspentin
acapsulehotel,toeatingaviper.Takeatrip
tothisendlesslyfascinatingcityandseeforyourselfhowdeeptherabbitholegoes...
ofneonlights,rawfoodandcuriousculture…
Tokyo | Japan
MUST-DOS
Cos-Cha: Back to School
(1) (cos-cha.com) is a maid’s
cafe – a bizarre trend that sees
women dressed in black and
white pinafores serving lunch. In
witnessed the commotion, make
like a local and indulge in some
just-cut sushi for breakfast.
Tokyo Tower (3) (tokyotower.
co.jp) is the place to behold
the sights and sounds of this
victory. Book tickets for a live
ght before your trip so you can
soak up an electric atmosphere
at the 13,000-capacity stadium.
Akihabara (5) is known for
being the ‘nerd headquarters’
good bet for those on holiday, as
it oers a choice of over 10,000
international musical numbers
and all-night drinks (til closing
time, anyway) for $42.
WHERE T STA
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 67
I m a g e s : C o r b
i s / A r a b i a n E y e ; S h u t t e r s t o c k ; J a p a n T o u r i s m
TOKYO’S... TOp SIGHTS
Imperial Palace in Chiyoda which, after being destroyed during WWII,
has been rebuilt and still used as an imperial residence today.
Ginza oers endless high-end shopping opportunities for those after a
luxury x. Streets here are spotless and teaming with trendy shoppers
who you can gawk at for style inspiration.
Chinzanso Garden is the place to trade the bustling city for a garden
lled with camellia owers and traditional cherry blossom trees: go from
February to March to see them in full bloom.
Meiji Jingu is where people go to appreciate nature, harmony and
Japanese virtues: locals believe it contains the souls of Emperor Meiji
and Empress Shoke.
Opposite page,
clockwise from top:
Waitresses from the
city’s popular maid
cafes; Signature sushi;
Sumo-wrestlers;
Chuo-dori, Tokyo’s
most fashionable
shopping street;
Tokyo skyscrapers.
fact, maid’s cafes have become
something of an institution in the
city; there are now over 210 to
choose from, and queues for a
table can last up to two hours.
Tsukiji Fish Market (2)
(tsukiji-market.or.jp/) oers a
distinctly shy experience, best
savoured at the crack of dawn.
Here local traders get stuck intoa noisy auction and lob around
baskets of eels, abalone, jellysh,
tilapia, tobiko and other freshly-
caught delicacies. After you’ve
mesmerising city. Choose
between the Main Observatory
(150 metres high), or the Special
Observatory (250 metres
high), for a sensory overload of
glistening skyscrapers as far as
the eye can see.
Ryōgoku Kokugikan (4) (sumo.
or.jp/kokugikan) is Sumida’s chief
sumo-wrestling stadium. Visit itson-site museum to learn about
one of Japan’s oldest sports and
view photographs of champion,
chubby athletes grappling for
of Tokyo. In this area you’ll nd
stacks of computer games,
Anime and Manga products,
Pokémon cards, retro video
games, gurines and dozens of
collectibles. In fact, it ’s a shrine
to cult memorabilia and makes
a great place to pick up unique,
Japanese-inspired gifts.
Fiesta International Karaoke(6) (esta-roppongi.com) is in
the Roppongi district; a haven
for sing-along joints. Fiesta
International is a particularly
WHERE T STA
Grand Hyatt Tokyo (7) (tokyo.
grand.hyatt.com) sets up
home in what is a prime spot
for discovering the entire city
– though its plush rooms may
make you want to stay put a
while longer. Expect modern
decor throughout, accompanied
by ve-star service, internationalrestaurants and views across the
sparkling skyline.
Capsule Hotel (8) (capsuleinn.
com) oers an alternative
sleeping arrangement, and has to
be tried at least once while you’re
in Japan. Here you’ll sleep in one
of a dozen capsules, which are
stacked on top of one another ina wall. Inside the small tube of a
room there’s space for your own
TV, radio and light controllers.
WHERE T EAT
oshimura Soba (9) (+81 422
43 1717) is a country-style noodle
shop in Kichijoji that makes
saliva-inducing buckwheatnoodles you’ll not forget. Order
them with all the trimmings in a
bento box (including tempura
and miso soup), dip them in a
variety of accompaniments (such
as soy, wasabi, ginger and chilli),
then wash them down with one
of a superb selection of rice-
based drinks.Daiwa Sushi (10) (+81 335 47
6807) is a tiny room where you
can eat like a local: squash in
like sardines at its sushi bar and
chow down on fresh pieces of
tender sashimi, chopped in front
of you and delicately passed
over via the chef’s chopsticks.
But, be warned; reservations arenot possible here and queues
can have you waiting an hour – a
testament to the food on oer.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
TOKYO
CHIYODA
CHUOSHIBUYA
TAITOBUNKYO
visit
Head to Russia’s capital o culture or an alluring mix o baroque and
l i l t l hit t il l d 200
ST PETERSBURG
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68 Januar y 2012Kanoo World Traveller
MUST-DOS
The State Hermitage
Museum/ Winter Palace (1)
(hermitagemuseum.org) is
a great place to begin your
cultural voyage; it’s flled with
paintings, graphic works,
sculptures and works o applied
art, archaeological fnds and
numismatic material. Yusupov
Palace (2) (yusupov-palace.ru)
is a long, oh-so-grand yellow
building that runs along the
side o the Moika River. Hire a
walkman and listen to a tour tape
on how, in 1916, a group o the
city’s noble elite conspired to
kill Grigori Rasputin, leading to
the all o the Romanov dynasty.
Elsewhere, you’ll spy gorgeous,
classical-style rooms chock ull
o rich, antique urniture. Nevsky
neoclassical-style architecture, miles o canals and over 200 museums…
It’s hard to believe St Petersburg was
originally a swamp owned by the Swedish:
seized by the Russian leader ‘Peter the Great’
in 1703, he turned it into what locals now call
‘the window to the western world’ – which
would explain the monuments worshiping
him across town. Art lovers and historians will
also revel in the knowledge that this was the
very place where Tchaikovsky, Stravinsky andShostakovich composed their masterpieces,
and where Russian revolutionists Lenin and
Trotsky wrote history. Post-revolution, the city
has returned to its ormer state o grandeur,
with locals having swapped soviet cabbage
soup or rich strogano and lavish European-
inspired are. Visit the chilly Russian city today
and marry the above with trips to chic caes,
decadent palaces and world-class galleries...
Prospekt (3) is the street where
well-heeled locals shop or
designer clothes – grab a bite in
one o its many ood emporiums
and waste literally hours in its
department stores. Seek out the
black market caviar-sellers here,
too, (Russians are big on the
esteemed fsh eggs), and catch
sight o historic architecture or
picture opportunities aplenty.
The Mariinsky (4) (mariinsky.
ru/en) is the place to see live
classical music, operas and
Russia’s signature ballet. Sit back
on one o its ancy, blue velvet
chairs and enjoy a show amid
crystal, gold trimmings, gilt-
moulded decorations and white
stone sculptures. Alexander
Garden (5) is in the very centre
o St Petersburg and dates back
Opposite page:
The Winter Palace.
This page, from left
to right: Shopper
on Nevsky Prospekt
Street; Lounge in
Hotel Astoria; Peter
the Great Monument;
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January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 69
to 1872. Wander inside and you’ll
nd some impressive statues of
Russian cultural gures – look
out for that of former Russian
General Nikolai Przhevalsky,
which people say bears a striking
resemblance to Stalin and where
devoted communists still place
owers at its base. Davranov
(6) (davranovtravel.ru/en) is
where you can book a canal boat
tour round the city. Most pass
the Moika River and go on to
Neva River, so passengers can
view the Peter and Paul Fortress
and the Cruiser Aurora. The
Aurora ship is now a museum, so
you can step aboard the vessel
that once battled in the Russo-
Japanese War.
WHERE TO EAT
Pyecanya cafe (7)
(Naberezhnaya Kanala
Griboedova) is an atmospheric
joint with a view of the canal
from the Russian Museum. Here
you can ll up on a traditional
war-time diet of brioche-style
rolls and red pickled cabbage –
though it sounds unexciting, it’s
seriously tasty (and cheap, too).
The Idiot Cafe (8)
(Naberezhnaya Reki Moiki 82)
is a cult favourite among artsy
types and expats. Games and a
shelf full of English books can
be found inside, plus four rooms
adorned with antiques and
trinkets where you can tuck into
Russian vegetarian fare.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Astoria (9)
(thehotelastoria.com) is as plush
as it gets in St Petersburg. Do
as the Russian billionaires do
and rest up in one of its tasteful
suites, complete with classical
trimmings and huge marble
bathrooms. At night, dine on
traditional haute cuisine at the
hotel’s Davido Restaurant.
Corinthia Hotel Saint
Petersburg (10) (corinthia.com)
is the place to splash out: its to-
die-for Presidential Suite spans
120 square metres, is adorned
in royal red and cream hues and
includes two bedrooms and a
balcony that opens out on to
Nevsky Prospect.
SAINT PETERSBURG
SUMMER GARDEN
GULF OFFINLAND
1
2
3
4
6
7
8
5
9 10
I m a g e s : S h u t t e r
s t o c k ,
H o t e l A s t o r i a
ST PETERSBURG’S...
MONUMENTS
The Alexander Column
can be found in Palace
Square; an impressive
47.5 metres tall and made
of one solid slab of red
granite, it was built to
honour Russia’s victory
against France.
The Bronze Horseman
on Senatskaia Ploschad
square resembles
a Roman hero on
horseback and was built
on order of Catherine
the Great as a tribute to
her predecessor, Peter
the Great.
The Moscow Triumphal
Arch forms a grand
structure and a gateway
into the Imperial capital,
and it marks the Russian
victory in the Russo-
Turkish war of 1828.
Impressive stu.
The Tsar Carpenter
is a detailed green
monument, built to tell
the story of the young
Peter the Great as a boy.
Here, he builds a ship
with an axe; a skill he
learnt in Holland to later
teach the Russian navy.
the Great Monument;Gold-plated turret
of the Big Palace.
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Bhi
Kanoo TravelAbu Obeidah AvenueManama+973 1 722 0862
Kanoo TravelSitra AvenueAwali+973 1 775 [email protected]+973 1 775 6487
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Air IndiaAbu Obeidah Avenue
Manama+973 1 721 4898+973 1 722 0788
24 Hour Call Center(international)Opposite Bab Al-Bahrain,Manama+973 1 721 [email protected]+973 1 757 8200
Thai AirwaysAirline [email protected]+973 1 782 8772
United Airlines Airline Center Mahooz+973 1 713 1410 john.erna [email protected]+973 1 713 1288
British Airways & QantasAbu Obeidah AvenueManama+973 1 722 9614+973 1 757 [email protected]+973 1 758 7777
EGYPT
Amex33 Nabil El Waqqad St.Ard El Gol – HeliopolisCairo+202 2 290 [email protected]+202 2 418 2144/+202 2418 3222
Amex15 St. Kasr El Nile - Cairo
Down Town – Kasr El NileCairo+202 2 574 [email protected] 02 2574 7991/2/3
Amex1 wahib Doss Str.Oce No 9 - MaadiCairo+202 2 751 [email protected]+202 2 751 3930/10
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[email protected]+202 2 574 7991 - +2 4182144/5 – 2 751 3910
Amex14 May Str. SayadliaBuilding - AlexandriaAlexandria+203 4 241 [email protected]+203 424 1050
Amex Mashrabia Mall, SharmElysee St. El Hadaba –Oposite to MeractoSharm El Shiek+2 069 366 [email protected]+2 069 366 6192
AmexAbtal El Tahrir St.Corniche El NileAswan+2 097 230 2909
[email protected]+2 097 230 6983
AmexWinter Palace hotel Luxor+2 095 237 [email protected]+2 095 237 8333
FCE
Bureau de Change Kanoo 11 rue Scribe,
75009 Paris+33 1 5330 [email protected]+33 1 5330 9900
Bureau de ChangeKanoo 11 cours del’Intendance, 33000Bordeaux+33 5 5600 [email protected]+33 5 5600 6333 /+33 55600 6336
Bureau de Change KanooPrintemps DepartmentStore, 64 Boulevard
Haussmann 75009Paris+33 1 4282 [email protected]+33 1 4282 4181 /+33 1 42824108
OM
Kanoo Travel PC 114Muscat+968 [email protected]+968 24700249
QT
Qatar Kanoo TravelRas Laan CommercialComplex Ras Laan+974 474 8775ino@kanoo–qatar.com+974 474 8772
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QatarKanoo Corporate MansourAl Mouleh Building,Old Al Salata Doha+974 431 3374ino@kanoo–qatar.com+974 448 3777
Qatar Kanoo TravelOld Al Hitmi Street -Museum StreetDoha+974 4371088ino@kanoo–qatar.com
+974 4413441
SUDi Bi
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Singapore Airlines Kanoo CenterJeddah+966 2 657 9911
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Kanoo TravelTabuk Garden VillageCompound Tabuk+966 4 428 1746+966 4 428 1020
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Kanoo TravelKhamis MushayatKhamis+966 7 222 3608+966 7 222 3624
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Feeling excited about your holiday? Check through our list o the most popular Kanoo Traveloces, fnd one near you and head down or call up to turn your getaway dreams into reality...
70 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller
Wi A BREAK AT THE NEW RADISSON ROYAL HOTEL, DUBAI
There’s a new hotel on Dubai’s bustling Sheikh Zayed
Road; 51-storeys-high and packed to the rafters
with leisure and dining amenities (not to mention
chic suites with glittering Dubai vistas). Among the
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ESTE POiCE
Kanoo CorporateAl Khobar 31952Al Khobar+966 3 882 4534+966 3 849 8700
Kanoo TravelAramco, Rastanura31941 Rahima+966 3 667 3591+966 3 667 0388
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Kanoo TravelKanoo Airline CenterAl Khobar
887 0128+966 3 849 1823/+966 3
849 1824
U..E
KT FujeirahSea PortFujeirah+971 9 228 [email protected]+971 9 228 2295
KT Sharjah Rolla StreetSharjah+971 6 561 8655
[email protected]+971 6 561 6058
KT Corporate Corporate OfceDubai+971 4 392 [email protected]
KT Dubai Internet CityDubai Internet Cityno.12 (Oracle Bldg)Dubai+971 4 390 [email protected]
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KTKarama Holidays
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+971 4 334 [email protected]+971 4 334 1444
KT Jebel AliLOB 16 Ground oorJebel Ali Free ZoneDubai+971 4 881 [email protected]+971 4 881 5050/8816350
KT Bur DubaiKhalid Bin Walid Street
Bur DubaiDubai+971 4 393 [email protected]+971 4 507 2467
KT BurjBurj Dubai BusinessCentre, Bldg no. 1,Ground oorDubai+971 4 365 [email protected]+971 50553 9431
KT Al AinEmirates CommercialComplexKhalia Street, Al Ain
+971 3 764 [email protected]
KT Abu DhabiAl-Najda st. P.O. BOX 245Abu Dhabi+971 2 678 [email protected]+971 2 678 0400
UK
UK Kanoo Travel34 Union Street,Birmingham,B2 4SR Birmingham+44 1 21 644 5555
Kanoo Travel74 Queens Road, Cliton,BS8 1QU Bristol+44 1 17 906 5105
Kanoo Travel3 Queen StreetCF10 2AE Cardi+44 29 206 49305
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Kanoo Travel69 George Street,Edinburgh, EH2 2JG
Edinburgh+44 13 1718 2505
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Kanoo Travel78 Brompton Road,London, SW3 1ERKnightsbridge+44 207 761 7905
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M1 1PX+44 161 833 7301
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g g ) gRadisson Royal Hotel, Dubai’s highlights are its ICHO
restaurant, a slick shrine to Japanese cuisine (we love
its Teppanyaki chefs, who’ll whisk up ne fare before
your eyes); Spa Zen, for those who really want to
relax (try one of its couple’s treatment packages);
and, for the socialities among you, a rooftop lounge
where you can perch cool beverages atop glow-in-
the-dark tables and gaze across its innity pool.
ThE PiZE
The Radisson Royal Hotel, Dubai is oering readers
the chance to win a two-night stay for two,
including breakfast. To enter, just email the correct
answer to the following question to easywin@
hotmediapublishing.com before January 31, 2012.
Q. What is the name o Radisson Royal Hotel,
Dubai’s luxurious spa?
a) Spa Ten
b) Royal Spa
c) Spa Zen
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Prize is non-transerable and must be taken byJuly 31, 2012. Dates subject to availability and exclude public holidays.
January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 71
SuiTe dreamSTold u So, maldiveS
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72 January 2012 Kn W T
Is there a more high-end suite to curl up in than this; The Owner’s Suite of a 145-foot mega yacht, Told u So? One of ve suites on board, no
less, we’ve placed dibs on this immaculate beauty, not just for its Missoni-striped furnishings, but for its 270-degree sea views, his and her’s
bathrooms, en-suite screening room, private sun terrace and a six-person Jacuzzi. Of course, spending the night here comes at a price –
$400,000 per week, to be precise. Stomp up the cash and you’ll set sail on the designer super-boat, which docks in the crystal clear waters
of the Maldives from this month to April, before setting sail again and resting in east Mediterranean shores for the summer. But this isn’t the
only place to snooze; its deck is something else – a sprawling space of lilac-hued daybeds, plump with Missoni cushions, where you can live
the high life supping icy beverages and taking a cat nap beneath the sun or stars. Priceless. molori.com
CRISTALLO HOTEL SPA & GOLF
THERE IS NO HIGHER PLACE.
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There is a magical place below one of the most majestic peaks of the Dolomites mountains, where one canexperience the best of every season. This is the Cristallo Hotel Spa & Golf, the only 5 star luxury hotel in theDolomites. Here you will discover suites of unforgettable charm, the most exclusive and luxurious comfort, andthe delicate touch of Transvital wellness. And after an intense day of skiing or a gratifying day of shopping,you can relax and let yourself be pampered by the impeccable Cristallo service offered in the various hotelrestaurants and in the prestigious Club House of the Cortina Golf Club. Always in surroundings of unrivallednatural beauty. This is what a Cristallo Hotel holiday is about. There is nothing better. Naturally, it is in Cortina.
Via Rinaldo Menardi 42 - 32043 Cortina d’Ampezzo (BL)Tel. +39.0436.881111 - Fax +39.0436.870110 - [email protected]
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