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The Region’s BiggesT LuxuRy TRaveL Magazine

issue ninety Four | February 2016

greek islandsHushed hideways and crowd-free coves; your private Greece

baliA chakra-cleansing sojourn to spas and spirituality

rOMeHow to roam the historic capital in three indulgent days

highLifeLiving the

A Sri Lankan quest from Colombo to Kandy

10dhs

a picture perfect stay

Discover a captivating destination on Abu Dhabi’s Corniche, where esteemed St. Regis

heritage blends with Arabian sophistication.

Indulge in the

extraordinary with the St. Regis Butler Service, access to Nation Riviera Beach Club, movie tickets at the adjoining

VOX Nation Towers and breakfast.

From AED850++

reservations.abudhabi@stregis.com stregisabudhabi.com

+971 2 694 4666

St Regis_Corniche Ad WT_AW.indd 1 11/24/15 12:36 PM

3

February 2016World Traveller

And... exhale. These days, picking up a magazine in print is a tangible indulgence; a slice of peace to quell the blinking of gadgets and online noise. Okay, admittedly we are vying for your attention too. And yes, you can read this online. But our words are to whisk you away on daydreams to lands near and far (that eventually evolve into stress-free thoughts at 38,000 feet, and ‘I’m never going home...’ memories-in-the-making).

Valentine’s Day sparks the February search for that picture-perfect setting where the weather behaves, the food is scrumptious, pillows are plumped and the stars and planets align. No pressure then!

Rest assured that whether you’re packing with heart-shaped expectations or simply going on a solo travel adventure (we know you’re out there too), there are plenty of destinations within these pages for you to fall in love with.

Chris Ujmachristopher@hotmediapublishing.com

Jan-Jun 2015 | 22,984 | BPA Consumer Audit

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

Cover: Tea Plantations, Sri Lanka

@wt_magazine

Managing DirectorVictoria Thatcher

Editorial DirectorJohn Thatcher

Group Commercial DirectorDavid Wade

EditorChris Ujma

Features EditorAnnie Darling

Art DirectorAndy Knappett

DesignerEmi Dixon

IllustratorAndrew Thorpe

Sales ManagerLisa Pricelisa@hotmediapublishing.com +971 4 375 3608

Production ManagerMuthu Kumar

Editor’sNoteIssue ninety four February 2016

a picture perfect stay

Discover a captivating destination on Abu Dhabi’s Corniche, where esteemed St. Regis

heritage blends with Arabian sophistication.

Indulge in the

extraordinary with the St. Regis Butler Service, access to Nation Riviera Beach Club, movie tickets at the adjoining

VOX Nation Towers and breakfast.

From AED850++

reservations.abudhabi@stregis.com stregisabudhabi.com

+971 2 694 4666

St Regis_Corniche Ad WT_AW.indd 1 11/24/15 12:36 PM

3

February 2016World Traveller

And... exhale. These days, picking up a magazine in print is a tangible indulgence; a slice of peace to quell the blinking of gadgets and online noise. Okay, admittedly we are vying for your attention too. And yes, you can read this online. But our words are to whisk you away on daydreams to lands near and far (that eventually evolve into stress-free thoughts at 38,000 feet, and ‘I’m never going home...’ memories-in-the-making).

Valentine’s Day sparks the February search for that picture-perfect setting where the weather behaves, the food is scrumptious, pillows are plumped and the stars and planets align. No pressure then!

Rest assured that whether you’re packing with heart-shaped expectations or simply going on a solo travel adventure (we know you’re out there too), there are plenty of destinations within these pages for you to fall in love with.

Chris Ujmachristopher@hotmediapublishing.com

Jan-Jun 2015 | 22,984 | BPA Consumer Audit

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

Cover: Tea Plantations, Sri Lanka

@wt_magazine

Managing DirectorVictoria Thatcher

Editorial DirectorJohn Thatcher

Group Commercial DirectorDavid Wade

EditorChris Ujma

Features EditorAnnie Darling

Art DirectorAndy Knappett

DesignerEmi Dixon

IllustratorAndrew Thorpe

Sales ManagerLisa Pricelisa@hotmediapublishing.com +971 4 375 3608

Production ManagerMuthu Kumar

Editor’sNoteIssue ninety four February 2016

Welcoming Sydneyand Adelaide to our networkFly to Sydney daily with the world’s Best Airlinestarting March 2016, and Adelaide starting May 2016Dive into an exhilarating and unforgettable adventure in Sydney andAdelaide. Feel your adrenaline rush as you surf Bondi’s amazing waves,come face-to-face with extraordinary wildlife on a nature tour, or simplysit back and relax as you take in the stunning Australian landscapes thatsurround you. Fly together and create memories that can last a lifetime.qatarairways.com

Perth . Adelaide . Melbourne . Sydney

Perth Adelaide Melbourne Sydney

5

The Sections Check In8Be Here NowImmense history in the cornerstone of an emirate, and warriors roar into (harvest) battle in Indonesia.

12GlobetrotterRecognise the backdrop locations of these Oscar-nominated flicks? Plus, the most stylish places to be seen at Fashion Week.

20Chef’s Top TablesPaul Owens of Crab Tavern cracks open his list of favourite English eateries.

22Spotlight On: BrusselsWe concentrate on the epicentre of the Belgian capital for food, frolics, then feet-up.

25Style & WellnessSpa news, travel accessories and fashion; make your upcoming excursion that bit more stylish.

Check InNews and inspiration from around the world

DestinationsIn-depth travel features to fuel your wanderlust

WeekendsEverything you need to know about short-haul escapes

Contents

February 2016World Traveller

Welcoming Sydneyand Adelaide to our networkFly to Sydney daily with the world’s Best Airlinestarting March 2016, and Adelaide starting May 2016Dive into an exhilarating and unforgettable adventure in Sydney andAdelaide. Feel your adrenaline rush as you surf Bondi’s amazing waves,come face-to-face with extraordinary wildlife on a nature tour, or simplysit back and relax as you take in the stunning Australian landscapes thatsurround you. Fly together and create memories that can last a lifetime.qatarairways.com

Perth . Adelaide . Melbourne . Sydney

Perth Adelaide Melbourne Sydney

5

The Sections Check In8Be Here NowImmense history in the cornerstone of an emirate, and warriors roar into (harvest) battle in Indonesia.

12GlobetrotterRecognise the backdrop locations of these Oscar-nominated flicks? Plus, the most stylish places to be seen at Fashion Week.

20Chef’s Top TablesPaul Owens of Crab Tavern cracks open his list of favourite English eateries.

22Spotlight On: BrusselsWe concentrate on the epicentre of the Belgian capital for food, frolics, then feet-up.

25Style & WellnessSpa news, travel accessories and fashion; make your upcoming excursion that bit more stylish.

Check InNews and inspiration from around the world

DestinationsIn-depth travel features to fuel your wanderlust

WeekendsEverything you need to know about short-haul escapes

Contents

February 2016World Traveller

6

Destinations Weekends38On the RailroadSri Lanka, ‘the teardrop of India’, is a treasure trove of train travel delight, from Colombo to Kandy and beyond.

46Rome Made EasyRev up your Vespa for a long weekend in the historic home of the Trastevere, Piazza Nova, Vatican and Trevi Fountain, among others.

52Soothe OperatorLet this article on the blissful island of Bali transport you to a realm of relaxation, spirituality and indulgence.

58Pytheas’ ParadiseFor centuries, Greece has been a nation on the pulse of appreciation, be it for power or politics. We explore the Greek Islands from an array of angles, to suit every leisure pleasure.

66One Weekend for All: Sharm el-SheikhNature parks, Bedouin villages, beaches and scuba diving are just some of the wonders at this Egyptian jewel.

68Great Escapes: Romantic ResortsOur perfect picks offer sublime settings in which to celebrate your special bond across the Valentine’s weekend.

7048hr FoodieYou’ve two days in Istanbul to savour fine fare: allow us to point your tastebuds in the right direction.

71Staycations4 hotels – in Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Qatar and Oman – that prove there’s no need to leave the GCC to get away from it all.

Contents

WelcomeContents

6

Destinations Weekends38On the RailroadSri Lanka, ‘the teardrop of India’, is a treasure trove of train travel delight, from Colombo to Kandy and beyond.

46Rome Made EasyRev up your Vespa for a long weekend in the historic home of the Trastevere, Piazza Nova, Vatican and Trevi Fountain, among others.

52Soothe OperatorLet this article on the blissful island of Bali transport you to a realm of relaxation, spirituality and indulgence.

58Pytheas’ ParadiseFor centuries, Greece has been a nation on the pulse of appreciation, be it for power or politics. We explore the Greek Islands from an array of angles, to suit every leisure pleasure.

66One Weekend for All: Sharm el-SheikhNature parks, Bedouin villages, beaches and scuba diving are just some of the wonders at this Egyptian jewel.

68Great Escapes: Romantic ResortsOur perfect picks offer sublime settings in which to celebrate your special bond across the Valentine’s weekend.

7048hr FoodieYou’ve two days in Istanbul to savour fine fare: allow us to point your tastebuds in the right direction.

71Staycations4 hotels – in Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Qatar and Oman – that prove there’s no need to leave the GCC to get away from it all.

Contents

WelcomeContents

Check InBe Here Now

8

Check InBe Here Now

8

Sumba, IndonesiaBattle commences during Pasola – a February harvest ritual borne of cultural pride – where horsemen astride Sumbawa ponies clash on rugged flatland and the ground flows red. Yet the spilled blood is said to fertilise the soil, ensuring a good harvest: the true victory for these warriors. Sumba is part of the Lesser Sunda Islands and spans 11,000 sq.km, making it twice the size of Bali. It is home to one of the world’s most uniquely beautiful beach resorts, Nihiwatu, which has developed an under-the-radar following after its opening, due to the absolute privacy it affords guests. nihiwatu.com

NowBeHere

April 2015World Traveller

99

February 2016World Traveller

Check InBe Here Now

8

Check InBe Here Now

8

Sumba, IndonesiaBattle commences during Pasola – a February harvest ritual borne of cultural pride – where horsemen astride Sumbawa ponies clash on rugged flatland and the ground flows red. Yet the spilled blood is said to fertilise the soil, ensuring a good harvest: the true victory for these warriors. Sumba is part of the Lesser Sunda Islands and spans 11,000 sq.km, making it twice the size of Bali. It is home to one of the world’s most uniquely beautiful beach resorts, Nihiwatu, which has developed an under-the-radar following after its opening, due to the absolute privacy it affords guests. nihiwatu.com

NowBeHere

April 2015World Traveller

99

February 2016World Traveller

Check InBe Here Now

10

February 2016World Traveller

11

Qasr Al Hosn FestivalWith Royal origins that date back to 1761, Qasr Al Hosn Fort in Abu Dhabi has undergone periods of preservation, restoration and rehabilitation, yet its distinct historic importance as the ‘symbolic birthplace’ of the emirate remains unchanged. The significance of the stone building continues to inspire, and visitors can see just how, during a fascinating 11-day festival held from February 3-13. In Desert, Oasis, Marine and Abu Dhabi Island zones, visitors can experience music, art, re-enactments, and workshops helmed by curators and experts, while a dedicated permanent exhibition provides a stroll through history, narrated with oral testimonies and quaint photographs. What are the stories from when the ruling Al Nahayan family resided here, and how did its role evolve through generations? Pay a visit to quench your curiosity. qasralhosnfestival.ae

Check InBe Here Now

10

February 2016World Traveller

11

Qasr Al Hosn FestivalWith Royal origins that date back to 1761, Qasr Al Hosn Fort in Abu Dhabi has undergone periods of preservation, restoration and rehabilitation, yet its distinct historic importance as the ‘symbolic birthplace’ of the emirate remains unchanged. The significance of the stone building continues to inspire, and visitors can see just how, during a fascinating 11-day festival held from February 3-13. In Desert, Oasis, Marine and Abu Dhabi Island zones, visitors can experience music, art, re-enactments, and workshops helmed by curators and experts, while a dedicated permanent exhibition provides a stroll through history, narrated with oral testimonies and quaint photographs. What are the stories from when the ruling Al Nahayan family resided here, and how did its role evolve through generations? Pay a visit to quench your curiosity. qasralhosnfestival.ae

12

GlobetrotterHere’s what’s hot in travel this month…

Go BananasA new year’s coming up in the Chinese zodiac calendar, and with 2016 arrives the Year of the Monkey

Chinese New Year is the country’s most celebrated annual festival. Plan your trip to Hong Kong during the city’s festivities on February 8, as it’s impossible not to get caught up in the joyous atmosphere.

Browse the colourful markets, which glitter with gold ribbons and burst with riotous chatter. Feast on traditional dishes, photograph pillar-box red lanterns and exchange mandarin oranges for good luck. Buttery pineapple tarts, steamed sticky cake and melt-in-your-mouth kueh bangkit (coconut biscuits) are just a few of the sublime culinary delights available.

Although Hong Kong is one of the world’s most modern cities, it’s also deeply traditional and celebrates the New Year with ancient rituals and rich customs. Each year, tens of thousands gather at Tsim Sha Tsui for the annual night parade, which features a spectacle of dazzling performers, chivalric lion dances and an array of decorated floats. Non-stop revelry and a spectacular firework display over the twinkling Victoria Harbour welcomes in the New Year.

StayThe Peninsula Hong KongHong Kong’s most famous and grandest hotel has an abundance of colonial charm to add to near impeccable levels of service, including its signature touch - your arrival by Rolls Royce. It also houses some of the world’s finest suites, which afford fabulous views of Victoria Harbour. hongkong.peninsula.com

EatAbove & BeyondChef Joseph Tse take classic Cantonese dishes and gives them a refined, albeit unusual, twist in this magnificent restaurant. hotel-icon.com

ShopThe best place (by a distance) to find global designer brands is the label-loaded Landmark Mall, but for a truly unique experience, as your concierge for a map to Hong Kong’s many bustling markets and go exploring.

Check InGlobetrotter

12

February 2016World Traveller

13

SpotlightBoston, MassachusettsMassachusetts’ history recalls revolution and transformation, and Boston continues to be regarded as one of America’s most forward-thinking cities. Wander around decadent boutiques on Newbury Avenue; devour delicious dishes in the North End; and cheer on the city’s World Series-winning Red Sox at Fenway Park. Where else can you mix colonial sights and museum strolls with a bustling nightlife and idyllic harbour? Grab your winter boots, wooly hats and go play in the snow!

The MartianWadi Rum, JordanWidely accepted as one of the world’s most breathtaking desert landscapes, narrow gorges, dramatic cliffs and steep caverns illustrate the region of Wadi Rum. Petroglyphs, rock carvings and archaeological remains testify to 12,000 years of human occupation. While there are dunes scattered throughout the region, the most striking are the burnt-red sands that bank up against Jebel Umm Ulaydiyya. Adventurous travellers should sleep over at one of the region’s desert camps.

Mad Max: Fury RoadSwakopmund, Namibia Explore the surreal colonial remnants of Swakopmund. A quirky blend of German-Namibian residents and tourists, this holiday destination boasts a variety of family-friendly attractions with its seaside promenades, half-timbered homes and scattered palm trees. There’s a variety of accommodation, which caters for every taste, budget and age group. This city’s very façade is an architectural masterpiece, with a plethora of historic homes and colonial buildings.

Bridge of SpiesBerlin, GermanyEdgier than Paris and worldlier than Copenhagen, Germany’s capital is quickly becoming the coolest destination in Europe. For a crash course in German history, spend an afternoon admiring the Reichstag. It’s been burned and bombed and rebuilt, but continues to be regarded as Berlin’s most iconic building. Charlottenburg Palace reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern clan that once ruled the region. It’s brimming with decadent royal treasures waiting to be discovered.

On LocationThe 2016 Academy Awards will be held this month and, as is the case every year, Oscar-nominated films give us a major case of wanderlust. To give you a taste of what’s to come, here are some must-see destinations from some of this year’s nominees...

12

GlobetrotterHere’s what’s hot in travel this month…

Go BananasA new year’s coming up in the Chinese zodiac calendar, and with 2016 arrives the Year of the Monkey

Chinese New Year is the country’s most celebrated annual festival. Plan your trip to Hong Kong during the city’s festivities on February 8, as it’s impossible not to get caught up in the joyous atmosphere.

Browse the colourful markets, which glitter with gold ribbons and burst with riotous chatter. Feast on traditional dishes, photograph pillar-box red lanterns and exchange mandarin oranges for good luck. Buttery pineapple tarts, steamed sticky cake and melt-in-your-mouth kueh bangkit (coconut biscuits) are just a few of the sublime culinary delights available.

Although Hong Kong is one of the world’s most modern cities, it’s also deeply traditional and celebrates the New Year with ancient rituals and rich customs. Each year, tens of thousands gather at Tsim Sha Tsui for the annual night parade, which features a spectacle of dazzling performers, chivalric lion dances and an array of decorated floats. Non-stop revelry and a spectacular firework display over the twinkling Victoria Harbour welcomes in the New Year.

StayThe Peninsula Hong KongHong Kong’s most famous and grandest hotel has an abundance of colonial charm to add to near impeccable levels of service, including its signature touch - your arrival by Rolls Royce. It also houses some of the world’s finest suites, which afford fabulous views of Victoria Harbour. hongkong.peninsula.com

EatAbove & BeyondChef Joseph Tse take classic Cantonese dishes and gives them a refined, albeit unusual, twist in this magnificent restaurant. hotel-icon.com

ShopThe best place (by a distance) to find global designer brands is the label-loaded Landmark Mall, but for a truly unique experience, as your concierge for a map to Hong Kong’s many bustling markets and go exploring.

Check InGlobetrotter

12

February 2016World Traveller

13

SpotlightBoston, MassachusettsMassachusetts’ history recalls revolution and transformation, and Boston continues to be regarded as one of America’s most forward-thinking cities. Wander around decadent boutiques on Newbury Avenue; devour delicious dishes in the North End; and cheer on the city’s World Series-winning Red Sox at Fenway Park. Where else can you mix colonial sights and museum strolls with a bustling nightlife and idyllic harbour? Grab your winter boots, wooly hats and go play in the snow!

The MartianWadi Rum, JordanWidely accepted as one of the world’s most breathtaking desert landscapes, narrow gorges, dramatic cliffs and steep caverns illustrate the region of Wadi Rum. Petroglyphs, rock carvings and archaeological remains testify to 12,000 years of human occupation. While there are dunes scattered throughout the region, the most striking are the burnt-red sands that bank up against Jebel Umm Ulaydiyya. Adventurous travellers should sleep over at one of the region’s desert camps.

Mad Max: Fury RoadSwakopmund, Namibia Explore the surreal colonial remnants of Swakopmund. A quirky blend of German-Namibian residents and tourists, this holiday destination boasts a variety of family-friendly attractions with its seaside promenades, half-timbered homes and scattered palm trees. There’s a variety of accommodation, which caters for every taste, budget and age group. This city’s very façade is an architectural masterpiece, with a plethora of historic homes and colonial buildings.

Bridge of SpiesBerlin, GermanyEdgier than Paris and worldlier than Copenhagen, Germany’s capital is quickly becoming the coolest destination in Europe. For a crash course in German history, spend an afternoon admiring the Reichstag. It’s been burned and bombed and rebuilt, but continues to be regarded as Berlin’s most iconic building. Charlottenburg Palace reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern clan that once ruled the region. It’s brimming with decadent royal treasures waiting to be discovered.

On LocationThe 2016 Academy Awards will be held this month and, as is the case every year, Oscar-nominated films give us a major case of wanderlust. To give you a taste of what’s to come, here are some must-see destinations from some of this year’s nominees...

Check InGlobetrotter

14

Will you marry me?The most romantic rooftop proposal destinationsLadies, think it’s about time you made an honest man of him? 2016 is a leap year and according to tradition, February 29 is the time for women to get down on one knee. The Shangri-La Paris’ suites have terraces with astonishing views of the Eiffel Tower. Florence’s Villa Cora’s imperial suite also boasts an unbelievably romantic balcony, and 230 FIFTH has New York’s largest rooftop garden.

TUMI TravelTreat yourself to a new tote or carry-on bagBetween traffic jams, layovers, and weather-related delays, this time of year is known for its travel-related stress. And that’s not even mentioning the difficulties when flying with a significant other! But this doesn’t mean you shouldn’t arrive in style. Fashionable jetsetters can make a stylish statement with TUMI’s new spring colours. The luxury luggage company has launched an assortment of travel and lifestyle accessories for Spring 2016. Whether it’s Moroccan Blue or Cayenne, pick your favourite colour from a vibrant and seasonal collection. Bon voyage! tumi.com

AppSaga TravelThis free holiday app enables customers to see a summary of their holiday or cruise, including the weather forecast and flight information

MusicSiaThis Is Acting is the seventh studio album by Australian singer-songwriter Sia, who’s rocking a Cruella de Vil-inspired hairstyle on the cover. Loving the monocrome, Sia!

FilmThe MartianDuring a fierce dust storm on the planet Mars, NASA astronaut Mark Watney (played by Matt Damon) is abandoned by his crew, who presume he’s dead. He isn’t...

BookThe Moonlit GardenYoung widow Lilly Kaiser investigates the disappearance of a musician when a mysterious stranger delivers an old violin to her Berlin antiques shop

Travel DownloadAll the media you need, whatever your journey

Garden PartyLargest Hilton Garden Inn outside America opens in Dubai

interconnecting – this hotel is ideal for families, groups and business travellers alike. With excellent access to Dubai’s major attractions and destinations, including the iconic Palm Jumeirah and Dubai Marina, this hotel’s a real winner. hgi.com

Hilton Garden Inn Dubai Mall of the Emirates has opened its doors to guests, making it the second largest Garden Inn in the world. The property’s also the largest outside of America and the first LEED Gold Hotel by Majid Al Futtaim in Dubai. With 370 guestrooms – 132 of which are

February 2016World Traveller

15

New YorkFebruary 11 - 18Razor sharp cheekbones, blasé bobs and stylish simians are what you can expect from New York Fashion Week. Although The Big Apple hasn’t the historic legacy its European rivals boast, it continues to be at the forefront of fashion.

Eat at: Savour top-rated food at Daniel. danielnyc.com

Shop at: Soho has gone from undiscovered to uber-fashionable

LondonFebruary 19 - 23The British bask in their refined etiquette and academy-oriented upper crust style, but London doesn’t stop at argyle sweaters and tweed jackets. Spunky ‘It Girl’ Cara Delevingne embodies the city’s relentless energy and attitude.

Eat at: Asian fish and seafood restaurant Sexy Fish in Berkeley Square, Mayfair. sexyfish.com

Shop at: Why surely... Bond Street, of course?

MilanFebruary 24 - March 1A kaleidoscope of sparkly, flower-embroidered satin, brocades and pearl-studded heels, the Italian city of Milan is recognised internationally as one of the world’s most influential fashion capitals.

Eat at: The most celebrated restaurant in Milan, Cracco. ristorantecracco.it

Shop at: The picturesque and historic neighbourhood, Navilgli

Paris March 2 - 9Much like Milan, Paris oozes extravagance and glamour. Brimming with impossibly long-legged models and established labels, Paris Fashion Week continues to be the event for picking up international trends.

Eat at: L’institut de Bonté lives up to its name. linstitutdebonte.com

Shop at: Boulevard Haussmann

Catwalk MomentsJetting off for Fashion Week? Add these to your little black book

Check InGlobetrotter

14

Will you marry me?The most romantic rooftop proposal destinationsLadies, think it’s about time you made an honest man of him? 2016 is a leap year and according to tradition, February 29 is the time for women to get down on one knee. The Shangri-La Paris’ suites have terraces with astonishing views of the Eiffel Tower. Florence’s Villa Cora’s imperial suite also boasts an unbelievably romantic balcony, and 230 FIFTH has New York’s largest rooftop garden.

TUMI TravelTreat yourself to a new tote or carry-on bagBetween traffic jams, layovers, and weather-related delays, this time of year is known for its travel-related stress. And that’s not even mentioning the difficulties when flying with a significant other! But this doesn’t mean you shouldn’t arrive in style. Fashionable jetsetters can make a stylish statement with TUMI’s new spring colours. The luxury luggage company has launched an assortment of travel and lifestyle accessories for Spring 2016. Whether it’s Moroccan Blue or Cayenne, pick your favourite colour from a vibrant and seasonal collection. Bon voyage! tumi.com

AppSaga TravelThis free holiday app enables customers to see a summary of their holiday or cruise, including the weather forecast and flight information

MusicSiaThis Is Acting is the seventh studio album by Australian singer-songwriter Sia, who’s rocking a Cruella de Vil-inspired hairstyle on the cover. Loving the monocrome, Sia!

FilmThe MartianDuring a fierce dust storm on the planet Mars, NASA astronaut Mark Watney (played by Matt Damon) is abandoned by his crew, who presume he’s dead. He isn’t...

BookThe Moonlit GardenYoung widow Lilly Kaiser investigates the disappearance of a musician when a mysterious stranger delivers an old violin to her Berlin antiques shop

Travel DownloadAll the media you need, whatever your journey

Garden PartyLargest Hilton Garden Inn outside America opens in Dubai

interconnecting – this hotel is ideal for families, groups and business travellers alike. With excellent access to Dubai’s major attractions and destinations, including the iconic Palm Jumeirah and Dubai Marina, this hotel’s a real winner. hgi.com

Hilton Garden Inn Dubai Mall of the Emirates has opened its doors to guests, making it the second largest Garden Inn in the world. The property’s also the largest outside of America and the first LEED Gold Hotel by Majid Al Futtaim in Dubai. With 370 guestrooms – 132 of which are

February 2016World Traveller

15

New YorkFebruary 11 - 18Razor sharp cheekbones, blasé bobs and stylish simians are what you can expect from New York Fashion Week. Although The Big Apple hasn’t the historic legacy its European rivals boast, it continues to be at the forefront of fashion.

Eat at: Savour top-rated food at Daniel. danielnyc.com

Shop at: Soho has gone from undiscovered to uber-fashionable

LondonFebruary 19 - 23The British bask in their refined etiquette and academy-oriented upper crust style, but London doesn’t stop at argyle sweaters and tweed jackets. Spunky ‘It Girl’ Cara Delevingne embodies the city’s relentless energy and attitude.

Eat at: Asian fish and seafood restaurant Sexy Fish in Berkeley Square, Mayfair. sexyfish.com

Shop at: Why surely... Bond Street, of course?

MilanFebruary 24 - March 1A kaleidoscope of sparkly, flower-embroidered satin, brocades and pearl-studded heels, the Italian city of Milan is recognised internationally as one of the world’s most influential fashion capitals.

Eat at: The most celebrated restaurant in Milan, Cracco. ristorantecracco.it

Shop at: The picturesque and historic neighbourhood, Navilgli

Paris March 2 - 9Much like Milan, Paris oozes extravagance and glamour. Brimming with impossibly long-legged models and established labels, Paris Fashion Week continues to be the event for picking up international trends.

Eat at: L’institut de Bonté lives up to its name. linstitutdebonte.com

Shop at: Boulevard Haussmann

Catwalk MomentsJetting off for Fashion Week? Add these to your little black book

Check InMy City

16

MY CITY

Madrid, Spain

When visiting Madrid, I always start my trip with a session of meditation or a cycling tour around El Pardo Park. Some parts are inaccessible and fenced off as part of the King’s hunting grounds, however this beautiful park is packed with wild boars and deer, making it a guaranteed winner if you’re visiting the city with kids. The town of El Pardo was previously home to several Spanish monarchs and boasts a spectacular Royal Palace, in addition to several military installations.

That first morning I enjoy a healthy breakfast at Huerto de Lucas, which serves a great selection of organic and sustainable dishes. Afterwards, visit the renowned Prado Museum. This is one of

Madrid’s top cultural sights, and one of the world’s greatest art galleries. Afterwards, grab a coffee in nearby Café Murillo on Ruiz de Alarcón Street. Alternatively, you can stroll around ‘Madrid de los Austrias’ and visit The Almudena Cathedral. This walk takes you through fantastic palaces and manicured gardens, before you end up outside the magnificant Opera Place. Lunch at Olivia Te Cuida, before an afternoon of designer shopping at Ortega y Gasset Street – this is a real must. Watching the sunset at Debod Temple, before dining at Ten Con Ten on Ayala Street is the perfect end to a perfect day.

I usually stay at Villamagna Hotel, which offers spacious and bright accommodation. Empire chairs, Bauhaus concepts and Chinese screens are combined here, to create a welcoming and luxurious atmosphere. The Tartán Roof – a restaurant located on the top of The Circulo Bellas Artes – is one of Europe’s most important cultural centers and one of

my favourite places to dine. The Principal Hotel also offers a picturesque rooftop terrace ideal for watching an unforgettable sunset. Afterwards, clink glasses at Cottet on Serrano Street.

Fashion-conscious travellers should visit the thriving Salesas district. Not only is this region expanding its borders; it’s broadening its horizons. Littered with elegant shops featuring local designers, you shouldn’t miss out on Argensola Street. Serrano Street also has a wonderful atmosphere and is crammed-full with luxury brands.

Madrid also has a beautiful beach, surrounded by the countryside – you feel as though you’re on the Nordic Fjords here.

My own SHA Wellness Clinic in Altea, Alicante, is only two hours away by train and the perfect place to rest, relax and detoxify. And if you’re flying out of Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas Airport, you can enjoy the wholesome organic food we offer time-poor travellers at Esenza by SHA.

Alejandro BatallerVice-President of the luxury wellness clinic SHA takes us to some of his favourite haunts in Spain’s capital

a legacy of luxury. now at over 30 of the world’s

finest hotels & resorts.

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WEEKEND ESCAPE AT THE FINEST ADDRESS

IN QATAR

Escape to an exclusive address with the finest 336 Rooms & Suites in Doha. Savor flavors from 11

extraordinary restaurants and lounges including Gordon Ramsay and Jazz

at Lincoln Center. Discover the joy of leisure redefined, by

The St. Regis Doha.

Come. Explore.

al gassar resort at west bay stregisdoha.com

974.4446.0105 stregisdoha.com/weekends

©2010–2015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

SRD_World Traveller_Weekend_21.5x29.indd 1 1/5/16 2:27 PM

Check InMy City

16

MY CITY

Madrid, Spain

When visiting Madrid, I always start my trip with a session of meditation or a cycling tour around El Pardo Park. Some parts are inaccessible and fenced off as part of the King’s hunting grounds, however this beautiful park is packed with wild boars and deer, making it a guaranteed winner if you’re visiting the city with kids. The town of El Pardo was previously home to several Spanish monarchs and boasts a spectacular Royal Palace, in addition to several military installations.

That first morning I enjoy a healthy breakfast at Huerto de Lucas, which serves a great selection of organic and sustainable dishes. Afterwards, visit the renowned Prado Museum. This is one of

Madrid’s top cultural sights, and one of the world’s greatest art galleries. Afterwards, grab a coffee in nearby Café Murillo on Ruiz de Alarcón Street. Alternatively, you can stroll around ‘Madrid de los Austrias’ and visit The Almudena Cathedral. This walk takes you through fantastic palaces and manicured gardens, before you end up outside the magnificant Opera Place. Lunch at Olivia Te Cuida, before an afternoon of designer shopping at Ortega y Gasset Street – this is a real must. Watching the sunset at Debod Temple, before dining at Ten Con Ten on Ayala Street is the perfect end to a perfect day.

I usually stay at Villamagna Hotel, which offers spacious and bright accommodation. Empire chairs, Bauhaus concepts and Chinese screens are combined here, to create a welcoming and luxurious atmosphere. The Tartán Roof – a restaurant located on the top of The Circulo Bellas Artes – is one of Europe’s most important cultural centers and one of

my favourite places to dine. The Principal Hotel also offers a picturesque rooftop terrace ideal for watching an unforgettable sunset. Afterwards, clink glasses at Cottet on Serrano Street.

Fashion-conscious travellers should visit the thriving Salesas district. Not only is this region expanding its borders; it’s broadening its horizons. Littered with elegant shops featuring local designers, you shouldn’t miss out on Argensola Street. Serrano Street also has a wonderful atmosphere and is crammed-full with luxury brands.

Madrid also has a beautiful beach, surrounded by the countryside – you feel as though you’re on the Nordic Fjords here.

My own SHA Wellness Clinic in Altea, Alicante, is only two hours away by train and the perfect place to rest, relax and detoxify. And if you’re flying out of Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas Airport, you can enjoy the wholesome organic food we offer time-poor travellers at Esenza by SHA.

Alejandro BatallerVice-President of the luxury wellness clinic SHA takes us to some of his favourite haunts in Spain’s capital

a legacy of luxury. now at over 30 of the world’s

finest hotels & resorts.

africa the americas asia europe the middle east

stregis.com

WEEKEND ESCAPE AT THE FINEST ADDRESS

IN QATAR

Escape to an exclusive address with the finest 336 Rooms & Suites in Doha. Savor flavors from 11

extraordinary restaurants and lounges including Gordon Ramsay and Jazz

at Lincoln Center. Discover the joy of leisure redefined, by

The St. Regis Doha.

Come. Explore.

al gassar resort at west bay stregisdoha.com

974.4446.0105 stregisdoha.com/weekends

©2010–2015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

SRD_World Traveller_Weekend_21.5x29.indd 1 1/5/16 2:27 PM

Check InAsk The Expert

18

Rob Arrow is a product manager at dnata Travel and a self-confessed hotel geek. With nearly a decade of experience in the luxury travel industry, Rob loves nothing more than talking hotels and discovering destinations. His favourite country is Lebanon, his favourite city is Los Angeles, and his dream is to own a boutique retreat in the Italian Alps.

Verona, Italy

Queenstown, New Zealand

Fregate Island Resort, Seychelles

Ask theEXPERT

Q. Valentine’s is upon us, and love is in the air… Can you recommend some nice cities for couples to take a stroll hand-in-hand?

A. There is one city that always comes to mind because of its overwhelmingly romantic atmosphere. Its winding avenues and picturesque backdrops are ideal when booking a relaxing holiday for two… Paris! Gaze into each other’s eyes and walk along the Seine towards the towers of Notre Dame or the beautiful Hôtel de Ville. The brisk February wind is warming on the heart as you snuggle close to your loved one.

Here, in the ‘City of Love’, there are some wonderful hotels in which to retreat. Le Bristol Paris is centrally-located in close proximity to the majestic Elysee Palace and

Rue Fauborg: you can stroll everywhere from here, and be back to your romantic bolthole in a matter of hours.

Another city that’s known for its aura of amour is Verona in Veneto. Just an hour from Venice and two from Bologna, it’s very easy to get to for a romantic weekend. The city’s full of traditional, ageing buildings and it’s mostly pedestrianised; walking is thoroughly encouraged!

One of the most romantic courtyard restaurants here is chef Carime Calo’s Borsari 36. It’s part of the wonderfully cosy Hotel Palazzo Victoria. If you want to escape the bustling city streets, visit the greenery and palaces of St. Petersburg. Nestled in a city built on love and honour, this ‘Venice of the North’ is wonderful: be sure to stay in a luxurious room at the Four Seasons Lion’s Palace.

Q. For those lovers seeking a bit more seclusion, are there any island or spa destinations you’d suggest?

A. The place for a peaceful love tonic is the Seychelles, with its secluded beaches and hideaway hotels. If you really want to get away from it all, head to Fregate Island for true island seclusion and serenity. Another resort upon Mahe is Banyan Tree. The peaceful spa offers couple’s massages, in addition to a selection of reenergising wellness treatments.

If this isn’t secluded enough, head to the private island resort of Chevel Blanc in the Maldives. You’ll be at total peace in these oversized villas. Should you be a hedonistic couple, try the Park Hyatt in Goa: here you can unwind with the Ayervedic spa team.

Q. How about adventurous destinations that offer something different, for a thrill-seeking pair?

A. If you’d like to unearth adventure together, head to the Alps for spectacular skiing. Spend the day chasing each other over pretty pistes, before meeting at the perfect rest point to get cosy in front of the roaring fire. The magical L’Apogee Hotel in Courchevel offers every luxury you could possibly need for thrill-seeking and romancing the weekend away.

Drama at the secluded Six Senses Zighy Bay in Oman starts on arrival - you can zipline to the hotel from the dramatic mountain above. Spend your days paragliding around the bay, or go diving in the warm waters off the Omani coast. Across the globe, go paragliding over Rio de Janeiro and soar over Sugar Loaf mountain or Copacabana beach. If this isn’t enough adrenaline, head to Queenstown in New Zealand, for everything from jet boating and bungee jumping to glacial skiing… there’s breathtaking scenery, and some stunning accommodation to be found.

WorldTraveller_215x290mm_Oct_Awards_en.indd 1 17/9/15 6:11 pm

Check InAsk The Expert

18

Rob Arrow is a product manager at dnata Travel and a self-confessed hotel geek. With nearly a decade of experience in the luxury travel industry, Rob loves nothing more than talking hotels and discovering destinations. His favourite country is Lebanon, his favourite city is Los Angeles, and his dream is to own a boutique retreat in the Italian Alps.

Verona, Italy

Queenstown, New Zealand

Fregate Island Resort, Seychelles

Ask theEXPERT

Q. Valentine’s is upon us, and love is in the air… Can you recommend some nice cities for couples to take a stroll hand-in-hand?

A. There is one city that always comes to mind because of its overwhelmingly romantic atmosphere. Its winding avenues and picturesque backdrops are ideal when booking a relaxing holiday for two… Paris! Gaze into each other’s eyes and walk along the Seine towards the towers of Notre Dame or the beautiful Hôtel de Ville. The brisk February wind is warming on the heart as you snuggle close to your loved one.

Here, in the ‘City of Love’, there are some wonderful hotels in which to retreat. Le Bristol Paris is centrally-located in close proximity to the majestic Elysee Palace and

Rue Fauborg: you can stroll everywhere from here, and be back to your romantic bolthole in a matter of hours.

Another city that’s known for its aura of amour is Verona in Veneto. Just an hour from Venice and two from Bologna, it’s very easy to get to for a romantic weekend. The city’s full of traditional, ageing buildings and it’s mostly pedestrianised; walking is thoroughly encouraged!

One of the most romantic courtyard restaurants here is chef Carime Calo’s Borsari 36. It’s part of the wonderfully cosy Hotel Palazzo Victoria. If you want to escape the bustling city streets, visit the greenery and palaces of St. Petersburg. Nestled in a city built on love and honour, this ‘Venice of the North’ is wonderful: be sure to stay in a luxurious room at the Four Seasons Lion’s Palace.

Q. For those lovers seeking a bit more seclusion, are there any island or spa destinations you’d suggest?

A. The place for a peaceful love tonic is the Seychelles, with its secluded beaches and hideaway hotels. If you really want to get away from it all, head to Fregate Island for true island seclusion and serenity. Another resort upon Mahe is Banyan Tree. The peaceful spa offers couple’s massages, in addition to a selection of reenergising wellness treatments.

If this isn’t secluded enough, head to the private island resort of Chevel Blanc in the Maldives. You’ll be at total peace in these oversized villas. Should you be a hedonistic couple, try the Park Hyatt in Goa: here you can unwind with the Ayervedic spa team.

Q. How about adventurous destinations that offer something different, for a thrill-seeking pair?

A. If you’d like to unearth adventure together, head to the Alps for spectacular skiing. Spend the day chasing each other over pretty pistes, before meeting at the perfect rest point to get cosy in front of the roaring fire. The magical L’Apogee Hotel in Courchevel offers every luxury you could possibly need for thrill-seeking and romancing the weekend away.

Drama at the secluded Six Senses Zighy Bay in Oman starts on arrival - you can zipline to the hotel from the dramatic mountain above. Spend your days paragliding around the bay, or go diving in the warm waters off the Omani coast. Across the globe, go paragliding over Rio de Janeiro and soar over Sugar Loaf mountain or Copacabana beach. If this isn’t enough adrenaline, head to Queenstown in New Zealand, for everything from jet boating and bungee jumping to glacial skiing… there’s breathtaking scenery, and some stunning accommodation to be found.

WorldTraveller_215x290mm_Oct_Awards_en.indd 1 17/9/15 6:11 pm

Check InChef’s Top Tables

20

Crab Tavern’s executive chef Paul Owens has over ten

years experience in the culinary world and reveals his all-time

favourite eateries

Gidleigh Park, Devon, EnglandOrder: Local Beef FilletI’ve been a big fan of Michael Caines for many years and had the chance to visit this restaurant while visiting one of the most stunning parts of the UK. As expected, the food was outstanding, boasting great seasonal and local produce. The level of detail that went into each dish, in addition to the balance of flavour was simply stunning. I couldn’t find any faults in the whole dining experience. I plan to visit his new restaurant in Abu Dhabi very soon.

Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Chelsea, EnglandOrder: Champagne jelly with strawberry jus and poached white peach Every chef should dine at a restaurant of this standard, so as to see what he or she should be aiming for. The knowledge and attentiveness from such well-informed staff stole the show.  In some restaurants you’re afraid to move as your waiter might jump on you, but they’re so skilled here that the service was attentive but not overbearing!

Chef’sTOP TABLES

This page: Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. Opposite page, from top right: Giplin Lodge Hotel; Wagamama

21

February 2016World Traveller

Swinton Park, Ripon, EnglandOrder: Estate venison with braised red cabbage, caramelized cauliflower and damson jusSwinton Park’s one of the best UK hotels and is based on a baronial style Scottish castle.  It was an absolute pleasure to work there and I’m always proud to return when entertaining friends and family. The estate has its own Deer Park & Walled Garden so you can’t get fresher ingredients, which has a much better depth of flavour than out-of-season shipped-in produce.

Gilpin Lodge Hotel, Lake District, EnglandOrder: Trio of Herdwick lambHerdwick lamb is a very hardy breed of sheep that comes from the very hilly and rough terrain of the Lakes. We had the pleasure of staying at Gilpin Lodge for a week last autumn and it’s simply an amazing venue. The restaurant isn’t your typical country house hotel; it has a surprisingly modern feel to it, paired with cutting-edge food. The chef is a huge champion of supporting local suppliers.

Wagamama, UAEOrder: Duck gyoza and chili chicken ramenI love Wagamama and the fantastic Japanese food that’s served there. I would recommend this casual dining brand to anybody, simply because I’ve never had a bad meal here. Whenever I want to eat out at a midmarket casual dining restaurant, this is on the top of my list in terms of price, choice and flavour. Traditional Japanese omelettes, crispy fried silken tofu and sticky white rice. What could be better?

Check InChef’s Top Tables

20

Crab Tavern’s executive chef Paul Owens has over ten

years experience in the culinary world and reveals his all-time

favourite eateries

Gidleigh Park, Devon, EnglandOrder: Local Beef FilletI’ve been a big fan of Michael Caines for many years and had the chance to visit this restaurant while visiting one of the most stunning parts of the UK. As expected, the food was outstanding, boasting great seasonal and local produce. The level of detail that went into each dish, in addition to the balance of flavour was simply stunning. I couldn’t find any faults in the whole dining experience. I plan to visit his new restaurant in Abu Dhabi very soon.

Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Chelsea, EnglandOrder: Champagne jelly with strawberry jus and poached white peach Every chef should dine at a restaurant of this standard, so as to see what he or she should be aiming for. The knowledge and attentiveness from such well-informed staff stole the show.  In some restaurants you’re afraid to move as your waiter might jump on you, but they’re so skilled here that the service was attentive but not overbearing!

Chef’sTOP TABLES

This page: Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. Opposite page, from top right: Giplin Lodge Hotel; Wagamama

21

February 2016World Traveller

Swinton Park, Ripon, EnglandOrder: Estate venison with braised red cabbage, caramelized cauliflower and damson jusSwinton Park’s one of the best UK hotels and is based on a baronial style Scottish castle.  It was an absolute pleasure to work there and I’m always proud to return when entertaining friends and family. The estate has its own Deer Park & Walled Garden so you can’t get fresher ingredients, which has a much better depth of flavour than out-of-season shipped-in produce.

Gilpin Lodge Hotel, Lake District, EnglandOrder: Trio of Herdwick lambHerdwick lamb is a very hardy breed of sheep that comes from the very hilly and rough terrain of the Lakes. We had the pleasure of staying at Gilpin Lodge for a week last autumn and it’s simply an amazing venue. The restaurant isn’t your typical country house hotel; it has a surprisingly modern feel to it, paired with cutting-edge food. The chef is a huge champion of supporting local suppliers.

Wagamama, UAEOrder: Duck gyoza and chili chicken ramenI love Wagamama and the fantastic Japanese food that’s served there. I would recommend this casual dining brand to anybody, simply because I’ve never had a bad meal here. Whenever I want to eat out at a midmarket casual dining restaurant, this is on the top of my list in terms of price, choice and flavour. Traditional Japanese omelettes, crispy fried silken tofu and sticky white rice. What could be better?

22

Check InSpotlight On

• Don’t miss A Brussels Chocolate Walking Tour that follows the city’s tasty trail of chocolate shops. Find out which chocolatiers sell the most indulgent bonbons and truffles. Enjoy mouthwatering free tastings, before learning how to make the most delectable, creamy Belgian chocolates.

Spotlight On BrusselsThe captivating Belgian cityscape is both historic and modern. It’s also well worth a visit...

See and Do The Old England BuildingThis 1899 former department store is a magnificent piece of architecture, with its decadent black façade a twisted twirl of wrought iron and arched windows. Here, you can celebrate music in all its forms.

Musée du CinquantenaireThis museum’s incredibly rich collection ranges from ancient Egyptian sarcophagi to Meso-American masks. Discover a wealth of artifacts in exhibitions, lectures and various other activities. Decide what you want to see before arriving, otherwise the sheer scope of the museum may be overwhelming.

Théâtre Royal de TooneEight generations of the Toone family have kept up the age-old tradition of popular puppetry. The origin of puppet theatre goes back to the Spanish period, during the 16th-century reign of Phillippe II. This endearing marionette theatre is a highlight of any visit to Brussels.

Stay Made In LouiseGuests enjoy a unique style of personalised hospitality that can only be experienced in a family-owned and operated boutique hotel. A graceful, relaxing ambience welcomes visitors to this early 20th-century building: a perfect sanctuary to return to after exploring Belguim’s capital.

Steigenberger Wiltcher’sBeautifully-renovated, this refreshed five-star property is replete with premium amenities, generously-sized rooms and opulent decor. Step out of the front door and onto the exclusive shopping promenade.

Eat and DrinkMokaféGet your waffles doused in whipped cream and chocolate in this quirky café. Located within the magnificent Galeries-St Hubert, Mokafé’s got a great location in the trendiest shopping arcade in Brussels.

Restaurant de l’OgenblikThis traditional brasserie is a great place to sample delectable French cuisine, including coquilles Saint-Jacques and chateaubriand. Afterwards head to the nearby fish market around Sainte-Catherine, also known as the city’s understated fashion district, to grab some fresh moules.

Le CirioThis sumptuous 1886 grand café boasts polished brass work and modish waiters. Nobody should leave Brussels without experiencing the fin de siècle glamour of its classic cafés. Le Cirio’s stylish art-nouveau bar comes highly recommended, ideal for coiffured mesdames and their small dogs.

22

Check InSpotlight On

• Don’t miss A Brussels Chocolate Walking Tour that follows the city’s tasty trail of chocolate shops. Find out which chocolatiers sell the most indulgent bonbons and truffles. Enjoy mouthwatering free tastings, before learning how to make the most delectable, creamy Belgian chocolates.

Spotlight On BrusselsThe captivating Belgian cityscape is both historic and modern. It’s also well worth a visit...

See and Do The Old England BuildingThis 1899 former department store is a magnificent piece of architecture, with its decadent black façade a twisted twirl of wrought iron and arched windows. Here, you can celebrate music in all its forms.

Musée du CinquantenaireThis museum’s incredibly rich collection ranges from ancient Egyptian sarcophagi to Meso-American masks. Discover a wealth of artifacts in exhibitions, lectures and various other activities. Decide what you want to see before arriving, otherwise the sheer scope of the museum may be overwhelming.

Théâtre Royal de TooneEight generations of the Toone family have kept up the age-old tradition of popular puppetry. The origin of puppet theatre goes back to the Spanish period, during the 16th-century reign of Phillippe II. This endearing marionette theatre is a highlight of any visit to Brussels.

Stay Made In LouiseGuests enjoy a unique style of personalised hospitality that can only be experienced in a family-owned and operated boutique hotel. A graceful, relaxing ambience welcomes visitors to this early 20th-century building: a perfect sanctuary to return to after exploring Belguim’s capital.

Steigenberger Wiltcher’sBeautifully-renovated, this refreshed five-star property is replete with premium amenities, generously-sized rooms and opulent decor. Step out of the front door and onto the exclusive shopping promenade.

Eat and DrinkMokaféGet your waffles doused in whipped cream and chocolate in this quirky café. Located within the magnificent Galeries-St Hubert, Mokafé’s got a great location in the trendiest shopping arcade in Brussels.

Restaurant de l’OgenblikThis traditional brasserie is a great place to sample delectable French cuisine, including coquilles Saint-Jacques and chateaubriand. Afterwards head to the nearby fish market around Sainte-Catherine, also known as the city’s understated fashion district, to grab some fresh moules.

Le CirioThis sumptuous 1886 grand café boasts polished brass work and modish waiters. Nobody should leave Brussels without experiencing the fin de siècle glamour of its classic cafés. Le Cirio’s stylish art-nouveau bar comes highly recommended, ideal for coiffured mesdames and their small dogs.

Rising high above Sheikh Zayed Road with the pulse of the city at your fingertips, discover a new urban sanctuary within Fraser Suites Dubai. We invite you to experience our brand new hotel rooms, each featuring contemporary interiors with abundant natural light, designer amenities, and panoramic views over the city.

Relax, unwind and enjoy our Gold Standard facilities and award winning service. At Fraser Suites Dubai, we have it all.

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A NEW PERSPECTIVE. A NEW EXPERIENCE.

THE FRASERCOLLECTION

BahrainBangkokBarcelonaBeijingBrisbaneBudapestChengdu

Doha DubaiEdinburghGlasgowGuangzhouHanoiHo Chi Minh City

Istanbul JakartaKuala LumpurLondonManilaMelbourneNanjing

New Delhi OsakaParisPerthSeoulShanghaiShenzhen

Singapore SuzhouSydneyTianjinWuhanWuxiAl Riyadh (2015)

Frankfurt (2015)Abuja (2016)Berlin (2016)Geneva (2016)Kunming (2016)Yangon (2016)Balikpapan (2017)

Dalian (2017)Hefei (2017)Johor Bahru (2017)Lagos (2017)Nanchang (2017)Tokyo (2017)Gurgaon (2017)

February 2016World Traveller

&StyleWellness

February 2016World Traveller

25

Sesel SpaThe H Resort, SeychellesAs one of the world’s most desired destinations, the Seychelles are a natural beauty; unspoiled and alluring. Among the many wonders is the Beau Vallon beach, a 3km stretch of white sand framed by clear waters. Centrally situated on the island of Mahé, on this fabulous beach, sits the exquisite H resort.

The resort’s Sesel Spa offers exotic indulgences within five treatment rooms,

two dedicated couples’ suites, a Vichy Hydrotherapy room and a beauty salon. The gym is also equipped with state-of-the-art Life Fitness cardio equipment and free weights; personal trainers are always on hand for private consultation.

A hand-crafted interpretation of elegance suffused with warmth, this intimate boutique resort’s not only luxurious but blended with the finest comforts most

The resort’s relaxation and rejuvenation facilities are dotted around this destination and include a pool and a kids’ club, as well as invigorating activities like yoga, tennis, beach volleyball and pétanque.

After a day of ultimate relaxation, help yourself to a delectable selection of international culinary offerings at one of several on-site dining venues.seychelles.h-hotel.com

February 2016World Traveller

&StyleWellness

February 2016World Traveller

25

Sesel SpaThe H Resort, SeychellesAs one of the world’s most desired destinations, the Seychelles are a natural beauty; unspoiled and alluring. Among the many wonders is the Beau Vallon beach, a 3km stretch of white sand framed by clear waters. Centrally situated on the island of Mahé, on this fabulous beach, sits the exquisite H resort.

The resort’s Sesel Spa offers exotic indulgences within five treatment rooms,

two dedicated couples’ suites, a Vichy Hydrotherapy room and a beauty salon. The gym is also equipped with state-of-the-art Life Fitness cardio equipment and free weights; personal trainers are always on hand for private consultation.

A hand-crafted interpretation of elegance suffused with warmth, this intimate boutique resort’s not only luxurious but blended with the finest comforts most

The resort’s relaxation and rejuvenation facilities are dotted around this destination and include a pool and a kids’ club, as well as invigorating activities like yoga, tennis, beach volleyball and pétanque.

After a day of ultimate relaxation, help yourself to a delectable selection of international culinary offerings at one of several on-site dining venues.seychelles.h-hotel.com

Check InStyle & Wellness

26

Steal Her StyleReady-to-wear in Côte d’AzurWhat better way to gift your loved one this Valentine’s Day than with a signature piece from Paule Ka’s new SS16 collection? In a new advertising campaign, the brand’s been seduced by the irrestistible allure of the French Riviera. A notorious destination for

Charlotte’s WebFirst look of spring collection ‘I Married Adventure’Charlotte Olympia’s adventurous spirit has been awakened with her safari-inspired design of wild animal prints, exotic textures and rustic materials. The new collection’s been based on the turn-of-the-century African adventures of husband and wife, Martin & Osa Johnson. Inspired by a vintage travel sticker, this Cairo Pouch is the mark of a lady with global style aspirations. The trianglar zip-up clutch in multi-coloured canvas embroidery captures the imagination and is perfect for your February escape into the wild! charlotteolympia.com

7MagnificentParisian Chic Classics

2.

1.

7.

(1) Multicolour Dual-Fabric Dress in Satin-Backed Crepe and Light Crepe (paulaka.com) (2) Stars Collection (hstern.com) (3) Capri Cats Zebra Shoes (charlotteolympia.com) (4) White

Trousers (arwaalbanawi.com) (5) Two Tone Striped Jumper (armani.com) (6) Raffia And Crochet Bag (paulaka.com) (7) Kenley Seasonal-Print Cashmere Scarf (dvf.com)

4.

6.

5.

Sunny WintersThis holiday season’s all about Diva and Balconette sunglassesLa Perla completes its new range of accessories in their new loungewear and beachwear collections with two sophisticated models of Kardashian-esque sunglasses, Diva (AED1750) and Balconette (AED1500). The former model comes in nuanced black-ice and fuchsia-ice, inspired by the ultra-feminine lines of glasses worn by celebrated 1950s movie stars. The Balconette frames are available in black, blue, pink and red. Each pair’s handmade in Japan by Linda Farrow, a London company which specialises in high-end eyewear accessories. A perfect eyewear collection for that next holiday. laperla.com

1950s glitterati, photographer Miles Aldridge has drawn on its haute-couture glamour. Four bold scenographic compositions reveal the story of this season’s campaign heroine, a role played with elegance by the French-Canadian model Anais Pouliot. pauleka.com

2.3.

7.

February 2016World Traveller

27

6#GetSoonWell

The LifeCo, Phuket Are you ready to experience true health and well-being while holidaying in one of the world’s most magnificant holiday destinations? The LifeCo Phuket is dedicated to improving the life of its guests through detox, therapy, exercises, meditation and yoga. Nestled sleepily in lush greenery and the pure serenity of Thailang, guests can unwind, shop at local stalls, soak up the sun and make the most of their detox

holiday. A personal experience of restoration and renewal is provided through timeless techniques and locally sourced ingredients.

Each visitor is offered a results-orientated approach to health therapy at the resort’s wellness facility, which boasts 40 rooms - 20 villas with private swimming pools and 20 luxurious rooms that overlook a beautiful lagoon.

The wellness programs at The LifeCo Phuket are not only

Try ThisYoga and meditation are an important aspect of The LifeCo’s purification program. They’re powerfully effective tools to bring harmony and balance on all levels, whether it be physical or emotional. During the detox program therapists organise daily yoga classes in which classical hatha meditation and pranayama (breathing exercises) are taught. Suitable for beginners and advanced students. thelifeco.com

aimed at detoxing the body, but also at rejuveniating the mind. The well-being centre has unique facilities that are oriented towards helping psychological conditions such as stress, depression and anxiety.

Spend your days sunbathing or exploring Thailand’s spectacular marine life. During their stay, guests and wildlife lovers are encouraged to trek up to waterfalls and National Parks to truly appreciate the natural beauty of Phuket.

Check InStyle & Wellness

26

Steal Her StyleReady-to-wear in Côte d’AzurWhat better way to gift your loved one this Valentine’s Day than with a signature piece from Paule Ka’s new SS16 collection? In a new advertising campaign, the brand’s been seduced by the irrestistible allure of the French Riviera. A notorious destination for

Charlotte’s WebFirst look of spring collection ‘I Married Adventure’Charlotte Olympia’s adventurous spirit has been awakened with her safari-inspired design of wild animal prints, exotic textures and rustic materials. The new collection’s been based on the turn-of-the-century African adventures of husband and wife, Martin & Osa Johnson. Inspired by a vintage travel sticker, this Cairo Pouch is the mark of a lady with global style aspirations. The trianglar zip-up clutch in multi-coloured canvas embroidery captures the imagination and is perfect for your February escape into the wild! charlotteolympia.com

7MagnificentParisian Chic Classics

2.

1.

7.

(1) Multicolour Dual-Fabric Dress in Satin-Backed Crepe and Light Crepe (paulaka.com) (2) Stars Collection (hstern.com) (3) Capri Cats Zebra Shoes (charlotteolympia.com) (4) White

Trousers (arwaalbanawi.com) (5) Two Tone Striped Jumper (armani.com) (6) Raffia And Crochet Bag (paulaka.com) (7) Kenley Seasonal-Print Cashmere Scarf (dvf.com)

4.

6.

5.

Sunny WintersThis holiday season’s all about Diva and Balconette sunglassesLa Perla completes its new range of accessories in their new loungewear and beachwear collections with two sophisticated models of Kardashian-esque sunglasses, Diva (AED1750) and Balconette (AED1500). The former model comes in nuanced black-ice and fuchsia-ice, inspired by the ultra-feminine lines of glasses worn by celebrated 1950s movie stars. The Balconette frames are available in black, blue, pink and red. Each pair’s handmade in Japan by Linda Farrow, a London company which specialises in high-end eyewear accessories. A perfect eyewear collection for that next holiday. laperla.com

1950s glitterati, photographer Miles Aldridge has drawn on its haute-couture glamour. Four bold scenographic compositions reveal the story of this season’s campaign heroine, a role played with elegance by the French-Canadian model Anais Pouliot. pauleka.com

2.3.

7.

February 2016World Traveller

27

6#GetSoonWell

The LifeCo, Phuket Are you ready to experience true health and well-being while holidaying in one of the world’s most magnificant holiday destinations? The LifeCo Phuket is dedicated to improving the life of its guests through detox, therapy, exercises, meditation and yoga. Nestled sleepily in lush greenery and the pure serenity of Thailang, guests can unwind, shop at local stalls, soak up the sun and make the most of their detox

holiday. A personal experience of restoration and renewal is provided through timeless techniques and locally sourced ingredients.

Each visitor is offered a results-orientated approach to health therapy at the resort’s wellness facility, which boasts 40 rooms - 20 villas with private swimming pools and 20 luxurious rooms that overlook a beautiful lagoon.

The wellness programs at The LifeCo Phuket are not only

Try ThisYoga and meditation are an important aspect of The LifeCo’s purification program. They’re powerfully effective tools to bring harmony and balance on all levels, whether it be physical or emotional. During the detox program therapists organise daily yoga classes in which classical hatha meditation and pranayama (breathing exercises) are taught. Suitable for beginners and advanced students. thelifeco.com

aimed at detoxing the body, but also at rejuveniating the mind. The well-being centre has unique facilities that are oriented towards helping psychological conditions such as stress, depression and anxiety.

Spend your days sunbathing or exploring Thailand’s spectacular marine life. During their stay, guests and wildlife lovers are encouraged to trek up to waterfalls and National Parks to truly appreciate the natural beauty of Phuket.

Check InWorld Traveller Promotion

28

I nspired by the rich and vibrant culture of Abu Dhabi, combined with cutting edge technology, Yas Marina Circuit

offers guests a variety of riveting activities for all tastes and ages. Go behind the scenes on an exclusive Yas Marina Circuit Venue Tour or take the wheel into your own hands and drive a high performance car. Open all year round, this petrol-head paradise offers something for everyone. Motor MadnessAston Martin and James Bond: a combination that’s left an indelible mark on society. We’ve all enviously watched the suave spy chase bad guys in his stunningly powerful 4.7 litre V8 Aston Martin. Now, it’s your turn! Alternatively, bring your own car as part of Yas Track Day or accompany an instructor in one of Yas Marina Circuit’s driving experiences. Enjoy the thrill of drag racing and feel the rush of a 6.2 litre V8 Chevrolet Camaro. If this isn’t heart-thumping enough, strap into the new Mercedes-AMG E63 or Mercedes-AMG GTS and feel the power of these machines.

Train & GainEvery great city has a special meeting place where visitors and locals can exercise and socialise. Yas Marina Circuit is Abu Dhabi’s much-loved community space, welcoming friends and families who come together to improve their health and fitness. Runners, walkers and cyclists are invited to use the F1 track and have fun. Weekly TrainYas and GoYas workout sessions, in addition to annual events such as TriYAS and WALK, are why this venue is the place Abu Dhabi residents call home.

Yas Island

Whether you’re a driver or a spectator, a visit to Yas Marina Circuit ensures an

extraordinary experience

IN FOCUS

Yas

Go KartingYou don’t have to be a professional racer to have fun at Yas Kartzone. Beginners are more than welcome, so be spontaneous and cut loose, either on your own or with a group of friends. This is a great activity for kids and the Lap Timing System provides print outs, as well as a performance graph, to ultimately help you improve your karting skills. Remember to wear sensible shoes – no flip-flops, sandals or heels allowed!

Upcoming EventsShrek The Musical will be bringing the hilarious story of everyone’s favourite ogre to Yas Island. Take the family for a fun-filled evening of shenanigans and laughs! Alternatively, treat your little ones to the exciting screening of Frozen, which runs from February 12- 13 and 18-20 at the du Forum. Following sell-out shows in London, FLASH Entertainment presents a unique orchestral accompaniment of the feature film. Also coming up is Yas Island’s knockout racing competition ActionHa. Thousands of spectators will gather to cheer on the all-star line-up, as they challenge each other’s driving skills. TriYAS 2016, the region’s only day-to-night triathlon, is back on February 26 for the sixth time. Whether you’re a first timer or a seasoned veteran, TriYAS is open to everyone with the emphasis on setting personal targets. If you prefer running, join the ‘Day The UAE Runs’ and register for Zayed Marathon on March 19. All registrations fees go directly to Kidney research and donations can be made online, regardless of whether you participate. Keep up to date by visiting yasisland.ae.

Check InWorld Traveller Promotion

28 29

February 2016World Traveller

Off to the Races!Book offers by calling dnata on +971 4316 6666 or log-on and visit dnatatravel.com

Radisson Blu Hotel, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi One night from USD 78 per person. Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast daily Valid: Now ‘til May 14, 2016

Centro Yas Island, Abu Dhabi One night from USD 77 per person. Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast daily Valid: Now ‘til Apr 30, 2016

Yas Viceroy, Yas Island, Abu DhabiOne night from USD 129 per person. Includes: Stay in a Marina Room with breakfast Valid: Now ‘til Apr 1, 2016

TriYAS

Disney In Concert: Frozen

Check InWorld Traveller Promotion

28

I nspired by the rich and vibrant culture of Abu Dhabi, combined with cutting edge technology, Yas Marina Circuit

offers guests a variety of riveting activities for all tastes and ages. Go behind the scenes on an exclusive Yas Marina Circuit Venue Tour or take the wheel into your own hands and drive a high performance car. Open all year round, this petrol-head paradise offers something for everyone. Motor MadnessAston Martin and James Bond: a combination that’s left an indelible mark on society. We’ve all enviously watched the suave spy chase bad guys in his stunningly powerful 4.7 litre V8 Aston Martin. Now, it’s your turn! Alternatively, bring your own car as part of Yas Track Day or accompany an instructor in one of Yas Marina Circuit’s driving experiences. Enjoy the thrill of drag racing and feel the rush of a 6.2 litre V8 Chevrolet Camaro. If this isn’t heart-thumping enough, strap into the new Mercedes-AMG E63 or Mercedes-AMG GTS and feel the power of these machines.

Train & GainEvery great city has a special meeting place where visitors and locals can exercise and socialise. Yas Marina Circuit is Abu Dhabi’s much-loved community space, welcoming friends and families who come together to improve their health and fitness. Runners, walkers and cyclists are invited to use the F1 track and have fun. Weekly TrainYas and GoYas workout sessions, in addition to annual events such as TriYAS and WALK, are why this venue is the place Abu Dhabi residents call home.

Yas Island

Whether you’re a driver or a spectator, a visit to Yas Marina Circuit ensures an

extraordinary experience

IN FOCUS

Yas

Go KartingYou don’t have to be a professional racer to have fun at Yas Kartzone. Beginners are more than welcome, so be spontaneous and cut loose, either on your own or with a group of friends. This is a great activity for kids and the Lap Timing System provides print outs, as well as a performance graph, to ultimately help you improve your karting skills. Remember to wear sensible shoes – no flip-flops, sandals or heels allowed!

Upcoming EventsShrek The Musical will be bringing the hilarious story of everyone’s favourite ogre to Yas Island. Take the family for a fun-filled evening of shenanigans and laughs! Alternatively, treat your little ones to the exciting screening of Frozen, which runs from February 12- 13 and 18-20 at the du Forum. Following sell-out shows in London, FLASH Entertainment presents a unique orchestral accompaniment of the feature film. Also coming up is Yas Island’s knockout racing competition ActionHa. Thousands of spectators will gather to cheer on the all-star line-up, as they challenge each other’s driving skills. TriYAS 2016, the region’s only day-to-night triathlon, is back on February 26 for the sixth time. Whether you’re a first timer or a seasoned veteran, TriYAS is open to everyone with the emphasis on setting personal targets. If you prefer running, join the ‘Day The UAE Runs’ and register for Zayed Marathon on March 19. All registrations fees go directly to Kidney research and donations can be made online, regardless of whether you participate. Keep up to date by visiting yasisland.ae.

Check InWorld Traveller Promotion

28 29

February 2016World Traveller

Off to the Races!Book offers by calling dnata on +971 4316 6666 or log-on and visit dnatatravel.com

Radisson Blu Hotel, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi One night from USD 78 per person. Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast daily Valid: Now ‘til May 14, 2016

Centro Yas Island, Abu Dhabi One night from USD 77 per person. Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast daily Valid: Now ‘til Apr 30, 2016

Yas Viceroy, Yas Island, Abu DhabiOne night from USD 129 per person. Includes: Stay in a Marina Room with breakfast Valid: Now ‘til Apr 1, 2016

TriYAS

Disney In Concert: Frozen

30

Check Indnata Offers

B United KingdomSt. James Hotel & Club, London 3 nights from USD346 per person Special offer: 15% discount on room rates and complimentary upgrade to Deluxe RoomIncludes: Stay in Superior room with breakfast daily and airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Mar 31, 2016

A grand townhouse in quaint England, and a Michelin-starred restaurant nestled within? Book us on the next flight out there.

A

WORLD TRAVELLER

Reader Offers

A USAThe Plaza, New York3 nights from USD838 per personSpecial offer: Stay two nights and receive an additional night freeIncludes: Stay in a Deluxe King Room and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Apr 15, 2016

It's the city that never sleeps, but you certainly will – and soundly – at this absolute hospitality icon, located near 5th Ave and lush Central Park.

SwitzerlandKameha Grand Zurich 3 nights from USD457 per person Special offer: Receive an upgrade to Deluxe Room and complimentary Wi-FiIncludes: Stay in a Premium Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Feb 29, 2016

Interior-design and architectural intrigue await at this creative treasure of a hotel, where luxury lifestyle is given an extraordinary visual twist.

AustriaGrand Hotel Wien, Vienna 3 nights from USD400 per personSpecial offer: Stay two nights and receive an additional night free, complimentary Wi-Fi and one child under 11 year stays free Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Mar 31, 2016

Find vibrant tradition laced with pure Viennese finesse.

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February 2016World Traveller

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F MaldivesSheraton Maldives Full Moon Resort & Spa3 nights from USD816 per personSpecial offer: Receive a 45% discount on room rates and one child under 12 years stays freeIncludes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return speedboat transfersValidity: Now 'til Mar 31, 2016

An appeal of the Maldives is its private islands: this is one such, on the North Male Atoll. Enjoy water sports and fine dining.

H IndonesiaConrad Bali4 nights from USD389 per personSpecial offer: Stay three nights and receive an additional night free, 15% discount on meals and two children under 12 stay freeIncludes: Stay in a Deluxe Garden Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Apr 15, 2016

Dip into Balinese culture with arts and crafts, dancing, purification rituals, and more...

E TanzaniaMeliá Zanzibar4 nights from USD793 per personSpecial offer: Receive a 20% discount on room rate and one child under 6 years stays freeIncludes: Stay in a Meliá Garden Room with breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, all soft and non-premium beverages and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Apr 15, 2016

Escape to 'Spice Island', to a resort set in 40 acres, fringed by a coral reef and white sands.

How to Book

You can book these offers by calling dnata on

+971 4 316 6666

Or visit dnatatravel.com Terms and conditions

apply. On the same site you can also sign up to dnata’s

newsletter and receive more offers direct to

your inbox.

ThailandAngsana Laguna Phuket3 nights from USD297 per person Special offer: Receive a 15% discount on room rate and one complimentary dinner for two adults and two children under 12 yearsIncludes: Stay in a Laguna Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Apr 15, 2016

Beach? Check. But there is also 600 acres of parkland, igniting a spark in the avid adventurer.

H

KL

CB

G

I

30

Check Indnata Offers

B United KingdomSt. James Hotel & Club, London 3 nights from USD346 per person Special offer: 15% discount on room rates and complimentary upgrade to Deluxe RoomIncludes: Stay in Superior room with breakfast daily and airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Mar 31, 2016

A grand townhouse in quaint England, and a Michelin-starred restaurant nestled within? Book us on the next flight out there.

A

WORLD TRAVELLER

Reader Offers

A USAThe Plaza, New York3 nights from USD838 per personSpecial offer: Stay two nights and receive an additional night freeIncludes: Stay in a Deluxe King Room and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Apr 15, 2016

It's the city that never sleeps, but you certainly will – and soundly – at this absolute hospitality icon, located near 5th Ave and lush Central Park.

SwitzerlandKameha Grand Zurich 3 nights from USD457 per person Special offer: Receive an upgrade to Deluxe Room and complimentary Wi-FiIncludes: Stay in a Premium Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Feb 29, 2016

Interior-design and architectural intrigue await at this creative treasure of a hotel, where luxury lifestyle is given an extraordinary visual twist.

AustriaGrand Hotel Wien, Vienna 3 nights from USD400 per personSpecial offer: Stay two nights and receive an additional night free, complimentary Wi-Fi and one child under 11 year stays free Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Mar 31, 2016

Find vibrant tradition laced with pure Viennese finesse.

31

February 2016World Traveller

E

F

J

D

F MaldivesSheraton Maldives Full Moon Resort & Spa3 nights from USD816 per personSpecial offer: Receive a 45% discount on room rates and one child under 12 years stays freeIncludes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return speedboat transfersValidity: Now 'til Mar 31, 2016

An appeal of the Maldives is its private islands: this is one such, on the North Male Atoll. Enjoy water sports and fine dining.

H IndonesiaConrad Bali4 nights from USD389 per personSpecial offer: Stay three nights and receive an additional night free, 15% discount on meals and two children under 12 stay freeIncludes: Stay in a Deluxe Garden Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Apr 15, 2016

Dip into Balinese culture with arts and crafts, dancing, purification rituals, and more...

E TanzaniaMeliá Zanzibar4 nights from USD793 per personSpecial offer: Receive a 20% discount on room rate and one child under 6 years stays freeIncludes: Stay in a Meliá Garden Room with breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, all soft and non-premium beverages and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Apr 15, 2016

Escape to 'Spice Island', to a resort set in 40 acres, fringed by a coral reef and white sands.

How to Book

You can book these offers by calling dnata on

+971 4 316 6666

Or visit dnatatravel.com Terms and conditions

apply. On the same site you can also sign up to dnata’s

newsletter and receive more offers direct to

your inbox.

ThailandAngsana Laguna Phuket3 nights from USD297 per person Special offer: Receive a 15% discount on room rate and one complimentary dinner for two adults and two children under 12 yearsIncludes: Stay in a Laguna Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Apr 15, 2016

Beach? Check. But there is also 600 acres of parkland, igniting a spark in the avid adventurer.

H

KL

CB

G

I

32

Check Indnata Offers

I K LJ

United KingdomThe London EDITION 3 nights from USD665 per personIncludes: Receive a 10% discount on room rate, complimentary room upgrade, VIP arrival amenities and complimentary Wi-FiIncludes: Stay in Guest room with breakfast daily and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Apr 15, 2016

A boutique hotel in the buzzing Soho district of London, anticipate oak floors and luxury yacht-inspired styling.

MauritiusShangri-La's Le Touessrok Resort & Spa4 nights from USD668 per personSpecial offer: Receive a 30% discount on room rate and one child under 12 years stays freeIncludes: Deluxe Ocean View Room with breakfast, complimentary non-motorised watersports, unlimited water skiing, round of golf for 2 persons per day at Ile aux Cerfs Course and airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Apr 15, 2016

This 'personal paradise' is back.

Sri LankaAnantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort 3 nights from USD765 per personSpecial offer: Receive a 20% discount on room rate and one child under 6 years stays freeIncludes: Stay in a Premier Garden View Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Apr 15, 2016

Located on the southern coast, this haven is ideal for a getaway swirling with charming local tradition and modern comfort.

SingaporeThe Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore 3 nights from USD540 per personSpecial offer: Receive a 20% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room Kallang Bay View with breakfast daily and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Apr 15, 2016

The Singapore skyline is an arresting sight, best seen from the hotel's Club Lounge. Elsewhere inside, feast your eyes on the 4,200 piece art collection.

Start the day right, with an inclusive feast at one of these four luxury locations

The Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore

The London EDITION

Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort

dnata’s FANTASTIC FOUR

The Breakfast Club

Shangri-La's Le Touessrok Resort & Spa

33

February 2016World Traveller Promotion

Follow

A dream holiday awaits upon the island

of Gasfinolhu

The Finolhu Villas, Maldives: The Club Med Exclusive Collection Nestled in beautiful natural surroundings on this exclusive 5-hectare island are 52 elegant couples-only enclaves, which sit on stilts or on the edge of the beach, each with their own terrace and private pool, providing the perfect balance between modern luxury and the natural charm of the Maldives. Switch off in your own sanctuary where tranquillity and spaciousness abound… Or venture from your abode to discover relaxation on a glorious beach, lounging on the deck of a sailboat, slipping into the tempting waters to try your hand at scuba or snorkelling. Want for nothing, as your own dedicated Villa Host will cater to your every whim.

The resort is located on the tiny, beautifully-preserved island of Gasfinolhu, and has new Eco-nature Villas with a green footprint, Situated on a fabulous 5-hectare lagoon, guests have access to a Welcome Lounge, gourmet restaurant,

and magnificent bar on the edge of a spacious swimming pool. A five-minute boat ride from Club Med Kani, enjoy all the facilities and activities offered at the Resort: there are tennis courts, a fitness room, Ila Spa and a pontoon for leisure and water sports. Lovers of nature and elegance will rejoice at the white sandy beaches and crystal clear sea; it’s the perfect setting for matters of the heart.

Starting price: AED13,900 Per PersonWhat’s IncludedThe Villa: 5 nights stay in a sunrise beach villa with a private poolServices: Personalised welcome, butler and concierge service: everything is included to transform your stay into an unforgettable luxury experience with breakfast and tea served at the villaSports: Free practice of: badminton, basketball, beach-soccer, beachvolley, volleyball, water polo, tennis, weights and cardio room, kayaking, and glass bottom kayak. Initiation group lessons: snorkelling, yoga,

Aquafitness Leisure activities: Table tennis, live music, stargazing, swimming pool, lounge and festive evenings, talk on marine life, cinema under the stars, meditation.Bars and restaurants: Full board throughout the stay including lunch and dinner. Snacks at specific times during the day and night.Transfer package: Your package includes transfers by boat exclusively for Finolhu

Villa Gentle Members (transfer from airport to Villa takes 40 minutes).

Contact: + 971 31666666 or contactcentre@dnata.com

Note:What’s Excluded In Your Holiday Price? Flights Visas Insurance Anything not mentioned above

your Heart

32

Check Indnata Offers

I K LJ

United KingdomThe London EDITION 3 nights from USD665 per personIncludes: Receive a 10% discount on room rate, complimentary room upgrade, VIP arrival amenities and complimentary Wi-FiIncludes: Stay in Guest room with breakfast daily and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Apr 15, 2016

A boutique hotel in the buzzing Soho district of London, anticipate oak floors and luxury yacht-inspired styling.

MauritiusShangri-La's Le Touessrok Resort & Spa4 nights from USD668 per personSpecial offer: Receive a 30% discount on room rate and one child under 12 years stays freeIncludes: Deluxe Ocean View Room with breakfast, complimentary non-motorised watersports, unlimited water skiing, round of golf for 2 persons per day at Ile aux Cerfs Course and airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Apr 15, 2016

This 'personal paradise' is back.

Sri LankaAnantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort 3 nights from USD765 per personSpecial offer: Receive a 20% discount on room rate and one child under 6 years stays freeIncludes: Stay in a Premier Garden View Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Apr 15, 2016

Located on the southern coast, this haven is ideal for a getaway swirling with charming local tradition and modern comfort.

SingaporeThe Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore 3 nights from USD540 per personSpecial offer: Receive a 20% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room Kallang Bay View with breakfast daily and return airport transfersValidity: Now 'til Apr 15, 2016

The Singapore skyline is an arresting sight, best seen from the hotel's Club Lounge. Elsewhere inside, feast your eyes on the 4,200 piece art collection.

Start the day right, with an inclusive feast at one of these four luxury locations

The Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore

The London EDITION

Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort

dnata’s FANTASTIC FOUR

The Breakfast Club

Shangri-La's Le Touessrok Resort & Spa

33

February 2016World Traveller Promotion

Follow

A dream holiday awaits upon the island

of Gasfinolhu

The Finolhu Villas, Maldives: The Club Med Exclusive Collection Nestled in beautiful natural surroundings on this exclusive 5-hectare island are 52 elegant couples-only enclaves, which sit on stilts or on the edge of the beach, each with their own terrace and private pool, providing the perfect balance between modern luxury and the natural charm of the Maldives. Switch off in your own sanctuary where tranquillity and spaciousness abound… Or venture from your abode to discover relaxation on a glorious beach, lounging on the deck of a sailboat, slipping into the tempting waters to try your hand at scuba or snorkelling. Want for nothing, as your own dedicated Villa Host will cater to your every whim.

The resort is located on the tiny, beautifully-preserved island of Gasfinolhu, and has new Eco-nature Villas with a green footprint, Situated on a fabulous 5-hectare lagoon, guests have access to a Welcome Lounge, gourmet restaurant,

and magnificent bar on the edge of a spacious swimming pool. A five-minute boat ride from Club Med Kani, enjoy all the facilities and activities offered at the Resort: there are tennis courts, a fitness room, Ila Spa and a pontoon for leisure and water sports. Lovers of nature and elegance will rejoice at the white sandy beaches and crystal clear sea; it’s the perfect setting for matters of the heart.

Starting price: AED13,900 Per PersonWhat’s IncludedThe Villa: 5 nights stay in a sunrise beach villa with a private poolServices: Personalised welcome, butler and concierge service: everything is included to transform your stay into an unforgettable luxury experience with breakfast and tea served at the villaSports: Free practice of: badminton, basketball, beach-soccer, beachvolley, volleyball, water polo, tennis, weights and cardio room, kayaking, and glass bottom kayak. Initiation group lessons: snorkelling, yoga,

Aquafitness Leisure activities: Table tennis, live music, stargazing, swimming pool, lounge and festive evenings, talk on marine life, cinema under the stars, meditation.Bars and restaurants: Full board throughout the stay including lunch and dinner. Snacks at specific times during the day and night.Transfer package: Your package includes transfers by boat exclusively for Finolhu

Villa Gentle Members (transfer from airport to Villa takes 40 minutes).

Contact: + 971 31666666 or contactcentre@dnata.com

Note:What’s Excluded In Your Holiday Price? Flights Visas Insurance Anything not mentioned above

your Heart

DestinationsIconic ShanghaiDestinationsIconic Sydney

Go from ‘Hello’ to ‘G’day’ in no time with an enriching, immersive trip to

the sun-soaked ‘Harbour City’

SydneyIconic

34

Sydney HarbourAn inlet of the Tasman Sea, this beautiful, natural harbour has 240km of shoreline, and can be explored in myriad ways. View the islands from a quaint 1850’s style sailing ship, take off in a Rose Bay seaplane, or, for a more static experience, camp overnight right in the middle on the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Cockatoo Island.

35

November 2015World Traveller

35

February 2016World Traveller

A New Way to New South WalesSydney is the next exciting chapter

in Qatar Airways’ ‘Going Places Together’ experience, as the airline

debuts its third Australian route on March 1. A daily flight, QR908

Doha-Sydney departs from the state-of-the-art Hamad International

Airport at 8:10PM local time, arriving at 6:05PM (+1 day), while

QR909 Sydney-Doha leaves at 10:20PM, arriving at 5:05AM (+1 day). The 2015 Skytrax Airline of the Year will use a Boeing 777-300 to Sydney, with the trip clocking in at 13hr55min eastbound, and

14hr45min westbound: what better route on which to experience the

comfort of Qatar’s award-winning Business Class seat?

qatarairways.com

DestinationsIconic ShanghaiDestinationsIconic Sydney

Go from ‘Hello’ to ‘G’day’ in no time with an enriching, immersive trip to

the sun-soaked ‘Harbour City’

SydneyIconic

34

Sydney HarbourAn inlet of the Tasman Sea, this beautiful, natural harbour has 240km of shoreline, and can be explored in myriad ways. View the islands from a quaint 1850’s style sailing ship, take off in a Rose Bay seaplane, or, for a more static experience, camp overnight right in the middle on the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Cockatoo Island.

35

November 2015World Traveller

35

February 2016World Traveller

A New Way to New South WalesSydney is the next exciting chapter

in Qatar Airways’ ‘Going Places Together’ experience, as the airline

debuts its third Australian route on March 1. A daily flight, QR908

Doha-Sydney departs from the state-of-the-art Hamad International

Airport at 8:10PM local time, arriving at 6:05PM (+1 day), while

QR909 Sydney-Doha leaves at 10:20PM, arriving at 5:05AM (+1 day). The 2015 Skytrax Airline of the Year will use a Boeing 777-300 to Sydney, with the trip clocking in at 13hr55min eastbound, and

14hr45min westbound: what better route on which to experience the

comfort of Qatar’s award-winning Business Class seat?

qatarairways.com

36

DestinationsIconic Sydney

Bondi Iceberg PoolsThe ‘home of winter swimming’, the baths (as the locals call them) have been in place for over 100 years, with a large pool for lap swimming and smaller dip pool for children. An on-deck sauna and overlooking Clubhouse provide the laid-back options and don’t panic

Sydney Opera HousePerched proudly on Bennelong Point on the south side of the harbour since 1973, ‘iconic’ is the appropriate word for this performing arts centre; artists, orchestras and thespians alike have played here in awe. For Danish creator Jørn Utzon, it was a technical challenge engineering-wise, solved to perfection with its curves and white sails. American architect Louis Kahn commented, “The sun did not know how beautiful its light was, until it was reflected off this building”. It is the face of Sydney – and, indeed Australia – to the world.

if you forget your towel, they have ready supplies for just $3 per rental. With its roots dating back to 1907, the story goes that a group of enthusiasts started up called ‘The Icebergs’. If you wanted to intitate into the club, you’d have to brave the freezing waters three Sundays a (winter) month. Brr...

37

February 2016World Traveller

The Rocks and Sydney Harbour BridgeTap into the pulse of the city by heading to the place ‘Made by Many Hands’: The Rocks. It looks quietish in this image but rest-assured, you’ll find a vibrant array of activites that bring this urban locale to life. With tons of places to eat, drink, shop and stay, this tourist precinct has a fascinating history. Speaking of which, the 1930s ‘Coathanger’ bridge screams ‘Sydney!’ on-sight, and is enough to get cameras clicking from every vantage.

36

DestinationsIconic Sydney

Bondi Iceberg PoolsThe ‘home of winter swimming’, the baths (as the locals call them) have been in place for over 100 years, with a large pool for lap swimming and smaller dip pool for children. An on-deck sauna and overlooking Clubhouse provide the laid-back options and don’t panic

Sydney Opera HousePerched proudly on Bennelong Point on the south side of the harbour since 1973, ‘iconic’ is the appropriate word for this performing arts centre; artists, orchestras and thespians alike have played here in awe. For Danish creator Jørn Utzon, it was a technical challenge engineering-wise, solved to perfection with its curves and white sails. American architect Louis Kahn commented, “The sun did not know how beautiful its light was, until it was reflected off this building”. It is the face of Sydney – and, indeed Australia – to the world.

if you forget your towel, they have ready supplies for just $3 per rental. With its roots dating back to 1907, the story goes that a group of enthusiasts started up called ‘The Icebergs’. If you wanted to intitate into the club, you’d have to brave the freezing waters three Sundays a (winter) month. Brr...

37

February 2016World Traveller

The Rocks and Sydney Harbour BridgeTap into the pulse of the city by heading to the place ‘Made by Many Hands’: The Rocks. It looks quietish in this image but rest-assured, you’ll find a vibrant array of activites that bring this urban locale to life. With tons of places to eat, drink, shop and stay, this tourist precinct has a fascinating history. Speaking of which, the 1930s ‘Coathanger’ bridge screams ‘Sydney!’ on-sight, and is enough to get cameras clicking from every vantage.

38

DestinationsSri Lanka

38

DestinationsSri Lanka

Railroad39

February 2016World Traveller

Epic surroundings of primeval jungle, colonial forts and tea

plantations make Sri Lanka’s Raj-era train journey from Colombo

to Kandy a scenic delight, says Andrew Eames

39

February 2016World Traveller

RailroadOn The

38

DestinationsSri Lanka

38

DestinationsSri Lanka

Railroad39

February 2016World Traveller

Epic surroundings of primeval jungle, colonial forts and tea

plantations make Sri Lanka’s Raj-era train journey from Colombo

to Kandy a scenic delight, says Andrew Eames

39

February 2016World Traveller

RailroadOn The

40

DestinationsSri Lanka

G reat train journeys tend to start from grand edifices, yet Colombo Fort is refreshingly understated as

Colonial-style railway stations go. While its exterior shuns the posturing of the golden age of train travel, inside it’s a picture: all polished handrails, scroll-topped iron pillars and flourishes of cream-cake Victoriana. In the morning rush hour, it was overrun with commuters and meandering cows, but it also had platform staff who knew exactly what I wanted before I’d even opened my mouth. “Kandy train, sir? This platform. In 10 minutes.” How very civilised.

Half an hour later we were rumbling across lowland plains, through canyons of papaya, banana and coconut trees, in an endearingly tatty observation car that was almost as exotic inside as things were outside. Beside me sat a family from India, mother-in-law and nanny in attendance. Behind me was a couple from Slovenia, with a daughter who didn’t want to read her book. Who could blame her? There was too much to look at through the windows. The train began to climb, stitching together quilts of paddy fields, convoys of people navigating their way across them towards school or market. Then came the tunnels and the cuttings, legacies of the colonial British railway engineers who’d had to wrestle with the mountains.

Gradually, the creepers throttled the telegraph poles and the rainforest closed in to form a canopy that blocked out the sun. Every now and then the greenery parted to permit glimpses of rearing peaks one way, a dizzying drop-off the other. It felt as if we were picking our way along a highland shelf, a sort of via ferrata of rainforest railways not least because groups of farmers and foresters stepped back out onto the track after the train had passed to continue their own foot-slog somewhere. The railway was a lifeline for them, too, I realised, sitting back to look forward to a week-long loop around the best of the country.

I’ve always loved train travel for the chances you have to laugh with fellow passengers; for the insight you get into a nation’s backyards. Sri Lanka, though, isn’t the first place you associate with rail journeys. Neighbouring India steals the limelight on that front. But when, 200 years ago, the British finally secured Ceylon, as it was then known, they went on to create one of the most spectacular networks in the world, linking cities to rainforests and tea

plantations to beach resorts. It all makes for an incredible journey today. Better still, the government has recently introduced new trains and, with creeping computerisation, seats are reservable, which explains my dignified departure from the Fort.

My plan was to travel by rail wherever possible. But even in the 21st century, Sri Lanka still has ‘fiddly’ parts that trains can’t reach. So I allowed myself the luxury of a driver, Kapila, who shadowed me in his car. It was a wise decision, though even on this three-hour leg to Kandy, traffic was so thick Kapila arrived an hour after the train.

The train and its observation car was a time machine back to a more genteel era. After the heat of big-city Colombo, hill-country Kandy, wedged into a scoop in the hills with a lake, rainforest and shopping streets, was another world. The last stronghold of the Sri Lankan kings, who didn’t capitulate to the British until 1815, it is still the spiritual home of the majestic Sri Lankan aristocracy.

Kapila and I pressed on, to the graveyard of those early British colonisers, just up the hill. Here rest in peace the likes of John Spottiswood Robertson, killed by an elephant, and Captain James McGlashan, veteran of the battle of Waterloo, who died after a long walk in the rain, accepting his end “with manly fortitude”. It was tough, being a colonial officer in Sri Lanka. It was also immensely rewarding because, as long as you can keep the rainforest at bay, the hill country is astonishingly fertile. Just outside Kandy are the Botanical Gardens, established by the British in 1821 so they could test what would grow best in their new territory. There’s a huge inventory of trees (palms, bamboos, hardwoods, pine) from around the world. There’s also the country’s first tea bush, still doing well. Romance seemed to be blooming, too, as I looked around at courting couples, dozens of them, smiling shyly at each other. Clearly the Botanical Gardens are fertile ground for all kinds of fruit.

After a couple of days, I was back in Kandy’s bird-song-filled railway station, consulting the hand-painted wooden departures board for updates on my journey up into tea country. This time the train was one of the new blue variety (traditional stock is a rusty red), imported from China. First Class was air-conditioned, full of tourists and fitted with video screens, though they were no match for the natural

All polished handrails, scroll-topped iron pillars and flourishes of cream-cake Victoriana

41

February 2016World Traveller

40

DestinationsSri Lanka

G reat train journeys tend to start from grand edifices, yet Colombo Fort is refreshingly understated as

Colonial-style railway stations go. While its exterior shuns the posturing of the golden age of train travel, inside it’s a picture: all polished handrails, scroll-topped iron pillars and flourishes of cream-cake Victoriana. In the morning rush hour, it was overrun with commuters and meandering cows, but it also had platform staff who knew exactly what I wanted before I’d even opened my mouth. “Kandy train, sir? This platform. In 10 minutes.” How very civilised.

Half an hour later we were rumbling across lowland plains, through canyons of papaya, banana and coconut trees, in an endearingly tatty observation car that was almost as exotic inside as things were outside. Beside me sat a family from India, mother-in-law and nanny in attendance. Behind me was a couple from Slovenia, with a daughter who didn’t want to read her book. Who could blame her? There was too much to look at through the windows. The train began to climb, stitching together quilts of paddy fields, convoys of people navigating their way across them towards school or market. Then came the tunnels and the cuttings, legacies of the colonial British railway engineers who’d had to wrestle with the mountains.

Gradually, the creepers throttled the telegraph poles and the rainforest closed in to form a canopy that blocked out the sun. Every now and then the greenery parted to permit glimpses of rearing peaks one way, a dizzying drop-off the other. It felt as if we were picking our way along a highland shelf, a sort of via ferrata of rainforest railways not least because groups of farmers and foresters stepped back out onto the track after the train had passed to continue their own foot-slog somewhere. The railway was a lifeline for them, too, I realised, sitting back to look forward to a week-long loop around the best of the country.

I’ve always loved train travel for the chances you have to laugh with fellow passengers; for the insight you get into a nation’s backyards. Sri Lanka, though, isn’t the first place you associate with rail journeys. Neighbouring India steals the limelight on that front. But when, 200 years ago, the British finally secured Ceylon, as it was then known, they went on to create one of the most spectacular networks in the world, linking cities to rainforests and tea

plantations to beach resorts. It all makes for an incredible journey today. Better still, the government has recently introduced new trains and, with creeping computerisation, seats are reservable, which explains my dignified departure from the Fort.

My plan was to travel by rail wherever possible. But even in the 21st century, Sri Lanka still has ‘fiddly’ parts that trains can’t reach. So I allowed myself the luxury of a driver, Kapila, who shadowed me in his car. It was a wise decision, though even on this three-hour leg to Kandy, traffic was so thick Kapila arrived an hour after the train.

The train and its observation car was a time machine back to a more genteel era. After the heat of big-city Colombo, hill-country Kandy, wedged into a scoop in the hills with a lake, rainforest and shopping streets, was another world. The last stronghold of the Sri Lankan kings, who didn’t capitulate to the British until 1815, it is still the spiritual home of the majestic Sri Lankan aristocracy.

Kapila and I pressed on, to the graveyard of those early British colonisers, just up the hill. Here rest in peace the likes of John Spottiswood Robertson, killed by an elephant, and Captain James McGlashan, veteran of the battle of Waterloo, who died after a long walk in the rain, accepting his end “with manly fortitude”. It was tough, being a colonial officer in Sri Lanka. It was also immensely rewarding because, as long as you can keep the rainforest at bay, the hill country is astonishingly fertile. Just outside Kandy are the Botanical Gardens, established by the British in 1821 so they could test what would grow best in their new territory. There’s a huge inventory of trees (palms, bamboos, hardwoods, pine) from around the world. There’s also the country’s first tea bush, still doing well. Romance seemed to be blooming, too, as I looked around at courting couples, dozens of them, smiling shyly at each other. Clearly the Botanical Gardens are fertile ground for all kinds of fruit.

After a couple of days, I was back in Kandy’s bird-song-filled railway station, consulting the hand-painted wooden departures board for updates on my journey up into tea country. This time the train was one of the new blue variety (traditional stock is a rusty red), imported from China. First Class was air-conditioned, full of tourists and fitted with video screens, though they were no match for the natural

All polished handrails, scroll-topped iron pillars and flourishes of cream-cake Victoriana

41

February 2016World Traveller

42

Where To StayTaylors Hill, KandyDon’t be fooled by this boutique hotel’s colonial country-house good looks. Majestically sat high in the Kandy mountains, this peaceful and secluded hideaway is ideal for idle loungers as well as outback explorers. Relax on a royal-blue sunlounger by the mountain-view pool or enjoy an indulgent afternoon tea with strawberry jam and clotted cream on the lawn. Each of its five guestrooms are adorned with bright, contemporary interior furnishings, including four-poster beds and panelled ceilings. taylorshillkandy.com

42

DestinationsSri Lanka

4343

Opening pages: Riding the train in Sri Lanka. Previous pages, clockwise from left: A waterfall in Kandy; Sunrise over tea plantations and mountains; A train at Kandy station; Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage. These pages: People walking at Kandy Lake at sunrise.

February 2016World Traveller

42

Where To StayTaylors Hill, KandyDon’t be fooled by this boutique hotel’s colonial country-house good looks. Majestically sat high in the Kandy mountains, this peaceful and secluded hideaway is ideal for idle loungers as well as outback explorers. Relax on a royal-blue sunlounger by the mountain-view pool or enjoy an indulgent afternoon tea with strawberry jam and clotted cream on the lawn. Each of its five guestrooms are adorned with bright, contemporary interior furnishings, including four-poster beds and panelled ceilings. taylorshillkandy.com

42

DestinationsSri Lanka

4343

Opening pages: Riding the train in Sri Lanka. Previous pages, clockwise from left: A waterfall in Kandy; Sunrise over tea plantations and mountains; A train at Kandy station; Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage. These pages: People walking at Kandy Lake at sunrise.

February 2016World Traveller

44

DestinationsSri Lanka

performance unravelling outside. Before long we were trundling through the very tea country the line had been originally built to serve, snaking in a stately manner around hairpin bends. Transfixed by the neat terracing of vegetable patches, the steep hillsides bandaged in velvety green, I couldn’t tear myself away from the open doorways.

Five hours out of Kandy, at almost 1,500m above sea level, the train clanked out of the clouds and into the highland town of Haputale, crossing the main street and sending tuk-tuks buzzing in all directions. Craving a cuppa, I found Kapila waiting to whistle me almost 500m higher still, to a teahouse at the top of the world: Lipton’s Seat was where Glasgow-born tea magnate

an entrepreneurial toll. Fearful drivers usually offer a bribe to distract the beasts, explained Kapila – something this one clearly knew. Empty-handed, we had to wait until a motorist bearing a coconut came the other way. While the elephant stamped on it, we slipped past.

Now we were back by the sea, the roads started to fill up again, dominated by manic bus drivers. Fortunately, the train was once more to hand. From Matara to Galle, the first-class coach was the most luxurious so far, buzzing with tourists using the high-speed wi-fi. Meanwhile, the world outside was a slideshow of beaches, pastel houses, rumbling rivers, waterside shacks and old gents on bicycles.

In Galle Fort, I stepped out of the station and walked into a 400-year-old slice of colonial history, Unesco-listed and preserved within a giant fortress on a sea-bashed peninsula. It could have been a set for Game of Thrones, were it not for the elegantly dressed newly-weds posing for photos. Wandering within those walls, I found old Dutch and Portuguese mansions, merchants’ houses and churches, many reworked as boutique hotels and shops selling semi-precious stones and painted silks. I encountered the British legacy too, most obviously in the shape of one the world’s most spectacular cricket pitches. Test matches are still played here, on the neck of the peninsula, just beneath one the Fort’s huge bastions, and peering down from the walls, I realised the easiest way to arrive would be to get a fisherman to drop you off in his outrigger canoe. Now that really would be cricket.

Until now, Kapila had shuttled me to villas and small hotels at the end of each rail day. In Galle, I was able to relax for two nights in the most exquisite hotel of the trip: the Why House was a queenly settlement of elegant, Colonial-style buildings set between beach and rice fields. Amid gardens of nutmeg, cinnamon and frangipani, it was quite a house party, everyone coming together to swap stories over dinner.

Time to complete the circle, on the train again for the last stretch to Colombo. I’d opted for rough-and-ready second class, the compensation being the companionship of a smiley young office worker and the stroboscopic effect of coconut palms against the afternoon sun. The tracks courted the sea virtually all the way, the drumming of the wheels mixing with the boom of the surf. There were fishing boats and surfers, holiday resorts and impromptu cricket matches. Then, as we neared Colombo, the beaches grew busier, as people came out to watch the sun go down.

There were plenty of vendors on the train, so I bought some patties and a lentil cake. Then a Thermos appeared, right on cue. My great railway journey ended with me by the window, at sunset, with the beach glowing just beyond my elbow. The perfect last brew with a view.

These pages, from left: Tea pickers in a tea plantation in the Nuwara Eliya District; Sri Lanka south seaside rail line.

Sir Thomas Lipton used to come to survey his empire. You can still tour the original tea factory at nearby Dambatenne, pausing to watch the pluckers do their morning weigh-in, then greet their children emerging from the estate’s school.

At Lipton’s Seat, the unassuming teahouse does ‘short eats’ (roti, patties, spicy potatoes, lentil fritters), which I nibbled while savouring the glorious view: rolling hills swathed in orange pekoe behind; a plunging neckline of forest and pepper plantations out front; and misty plains kilometres below. Tea-break over, it was the end of my four days in the highlands.

No trains connect the highlands to the coast, so Kapila took over. Down we plunged, on a zig-zag route busier with peacocks than cars, to the plains below, where bigger wildlife lay in store. Skirting the Yala National Park, we were brought to a halt by an elephant standing half-way across the road, just along from a ‘Don’t feed the animals’ sign. It was operating

45

February 2016World Traveller

44

DestinationsSri Lanka

performance unravelling outside. Before long we were trundling through the very tea country the line had been originally built to serve, snaking in a stately manner around hairpin bends. Transfixed by the neat terracing of vegetable patches, the steep hillsides bandaged in velvety green, I couldn’t tear myself away from the open doorways.

Five hours out of Kandy, at almost 1,500m above sea level, the train clanked out of the clouds and into the highland town of Haputale, crossing the main street and sending tuk-tuks buzzing in all directions. Craving a cuppa, I found Kapila waiting to whistle me almost 500m higher still, to a teahouse at the top of the world: Lipton’s Seat was where Glasgow-born tea magnate

an entrepreneurial toll. Fearful drivers usually offer a bribe to distract the beasts, explained Kapila – something this one clearly knew. Empty-handed, we had to wait until a motorist bearing a coconut came the other way. While the elephant stamped on it, we slipped past.

Now we were back by the sea, the roads started to fill up again, dominated by manic bus drivers. Fortunately, the train was once more to hand. From Matara to Galle, the first-class coach was the most luxurious so far, buzzing with tourists using the high-speed wi-fi. Meanwhile, the world outside was a slideshow of beaches, pastel houses, rumbling rivers, waterside shacks and old gents on bicycles.

In Galle Fort, I stepped out of the station and walked into a 400-year-old slice of colonial history, Unesco-listed and preserved within a giant fortress on a sea-bashed peninsula. It could have been a set for Game of Thrones, were it not for the elegantly dressed newly-weds posing for photos. Wandering within those walls, I found old Dutch and Portuguese mansions, merchants’ houses and churches, many reworked as boutique hotels and shops selling semi-precious stones and painted silks. I encountered the British legacy too, most obviously in the shape of one the world’s most spectacular cricket pitches. Test matches are still played here, on the neck of the peninsula, just beneath one the Fort’s huge bastions, and peering down from the walls, I realised the easiest way to arrive would be to get a fisherman to drop you off in his outrigger canoe. Now that really would be cricket.

Until now, Kapila had shuttled me to villas and small hotels at the end of each rail day. In Galle, I was able to relax for two nights in the most exquisite hotel of the trip: the Why House was a queenly settlement of elegant, Colonial-style buildings set between beach and rice fields. Amid gardens of nutmeg, cinnamon and frangipani, it was quite a house party, everyone coming together to swap stories over dinner.

Time to complete the circle, on the train again for the last stretch to Colombo. I’d opted for rough-and-ready second class, the compensation being the companionship of a smiley young office worker and the stroboscopic effect of coconut palms against the afternoon sun. The tracks courted the sea virtually all the way, the drumming of the wheels mixing with the boom of the surf. There were fishing boats and surfers, holiday resorts and impromptu cricket matches. Then, as we neared Colombo, the beaches grew busier, as people came out to watch the sun go down.

There were plenty of vendors on the train, so I bought some patties and a lentil cake. Then a Thermos appeared, right on cue. My great railway journey ended with me by the window, at sunset, with the beach glowing just beyond my elbow. The perfect last brew with a view.

These pages, from left: Tea pickers in a tea plantation in the Nuwara Eliya District; Sri Lanka south seaside rail line.

Sir Thomas Lipton used to come to survey his empire. You can still tour the original tea factory at nearby Dambatenne, pausing to watch the pluckers do their morning weigh-in, then greet their children emerging from the estate’s school.

At Lipton’s Seat, the unassuming teahouse does ‘short eats’ (roti, patties, spicy potatoes, lentil fritters), which I nibbled while savouring the glorious view: rolling hills swathed in orange pekoe behind; a plunging neckline of forest and pepper plantations out front; and misty plains kilometres below. Tea-break over, it was the end of my four days in the highlands.

No trains connect the highlands to the coast, so Kapila took over. Down we plunged, on a zig-zag route busier with peacocks than cars, to the plains below, where bigger wildlife lay in store. Skirting the Yala National Park, we were brought to a halt by an elephant standing half-way across the road, just along from a ‘Don’t feed the animals’ sign. It was operating

45

February 2016World Traveller

4646

DestinationsRome

47

R O M E M A D EE A S Y

Rome wasn’t built in a day, but it’s possible to unearth its secrets and hit the big sights in a long weekend – particularly if you go during the chilly

season, says Rachel Spence

47

February 2016World Traveller

4646

DestinationsRome

47

R O M E M A D EE A S Y

Rome wasn’t built in a day, but it’s possible to unearth its secrets and hit the big sights in a long weekend – particularly if you go during the chilly

season, says Rachel Spence

47

February 2016World Traveller

48

DestinationsRome

P ale golden streaks spill across the main square in front of the station, as if to welcome me. Of course

it rains sometimes, but during the years I lived in Venice, the Italian capital would be my weekend escape when once too often I’d woken to foghorns droning across the lagoon. I’d go to Rome for the sun, safe in the knowledge that I’d have less competition for the A-list sights and that I’d have hidden corners all to myself. Arriving, I’d grab a taxi to my hotel and let the driver’s local burr, like warm treacle, charm me out of any crossness at being ripped off - always by a few euros. This is, after all, the Eternal City, so why not turn the other cheek?

Bags dropped, I’d saunter out into a morning warm enough to stroll in but cool enough to call for a scarf - make it cashmere, tied properly, please, so that it puffs out under your chin. The Romans are the best-dressed in Italy, smarter than the Venetians, subtler than the Milanese, and they appreciate a quality knit. The

Romans have always known how to warm up, too: ancient thermal baths then; now earthy, robust flavours that lend themselves to long, cosy, calorific lunches. So what’s your fancy? Classical building? Baroque fountain? Gelato fit for an emperor? Rome’s perfect piazzas deliver all these delights and more. Can you see it all in a winter weekend? Of course. Here’s how.

Friday The joy of visiting Rome in winter is that Piazza Navona, the elegant showpiece square that’s too heavily thronged in busier seasons, hops back onto your must-see map. It’s marvellous for many reasons: buildings painted in 50 shades of glow (peach, terracotta, pink, ochre, mustard, butterscotch…); window boxes of geraniums; tiny, shutterframed attic windows that make you want to run off and haggle with the nearest estate agent; pavement artists who’ll sketch you before your coffee’s cool enough to drink. The fountains impress,

too, among them the Four Rivers, with its reach-for-the-stars obelisk and beefcake river gods at each corner. Who knew that Bernini studied acroyoga as well as Archimedes? Take a turn around this latter-day forum, then hunker down with cappuccino-and-cornetto at Caffè della Pace (Via della Pace 3/7; caffedellapace.it), an ivy-cloaked coffee house that’s put foam on the chin of patrons from Federico Fellini to Spike Lee.

This city was built, not in a day, but over 12 centuries, and every era’s starchitect - from Emperor Hadrian to Michelangelo, Bernini to contemporary queen of the swerve Zaha Hadid - has waggled a set square at it. Add in upscale painters and decorators - Raphael, Caravaggio, awesome-but-anonymous fresco-and icon-makers - and you have a recipe for a corker on every street corner.

But let’s start humble. Steps away from Piazza Navona lies Christmascake-like Baroque church San Luigi dei Francesi

49

February 2016World Traveller

(Piazza di San Luigi dei Francesi 5; free entry), where you’ll find three Caravaggio paintings that leave critics flailing. For me, the heart-thumper is Inspiration, painted against a background so black it looks like a hole in the spacetime continuum.

More substantial soul food? Take an appetite-honing stroll northwards along the Tiber, its waters trailed by the naked branches of bankside willows, then dive into the peaceful 19th-century neighbourhood around Largo Monte d’Oro. Welcome to the Roman mamma’s world: eagle-eyed matrons around orchards’ worth of apples, aubergines, artichokes and oranges. Pickings are just as rich in winter: witness the southern citrus whoppers that fill stalls in the piazza’s little covered market.

Take a table at nearby Settimio All’Arancio (Via dell’Arancio 50; 00 39 066 876119, settimioallarancio.it), where love of tradition shines out through every unforgiving light bulb. This is where to relax over the ballsy flavours that make

Make it cashmere, tied properly, please, so that it puffs out under your chin. The Romans are the best-dressed in Italy... they appreciate a quality knit

Roman cucina some of Italy’s best. Beside the local businessmen regulars, who take their food as seriously as their football, fortify yourself against seasonal chills and savour spicy, tomato-stewed meatballs with soothing potato purée.

Chase away sleepiness with a leg-stretch west to St Peter’s Basilica (Piazza San Pietro; mv.vatican.va; free), a building that’s beyond spectacular, and Instagram yourself peeping through the piazza’s semicircular colonnades. (The sky-scraping Egyptian obelisk in the centre nearly didn’t make it: when it was moved here in the 1580s, a beady-eyed spectator noticed the hoisting ropes were under such strain that they were smoking.) You could spend a week inside the basilica’s marblecloaked chapels, but plot a compass-straight course down the nave to give yourself enough shock-and-awe time over Michelangelo’s Pietà.

If you leave St Peter’s overcome with piety, blast your way back to Earth with an espresso at Castroni (Via Cola di

48

DestinationsRome

P ale golden streaks spill across the main square in front of the station, as if to welcome me. Of course

it rains sometimes, but during the years I lived in Venice, the Italian capital would be my weekend escape when once too often I’d woken to foghorns droning across the lagoon. I’d go to Rome for the sun, safe in the knowledge that I’d have less competition for the A-list sights and that I’d have hidden corners all to myself. Arriving, I’d grab a taxi to my hotel and let the driver’s local burr, like warm treacle, charm me out of any crossness at being ripped off - always by a few euros. This is, after all, the Eternal City, so why not turn the other cheek?

Bags dropped, I’d saunter out into a morning warm enough to stroll in but cool enough to call for a scarf - make it cashmere, tied properly, please, so that it puffs out under your chin. The Romans are the best-dressed in Italy, smarter than the Venetians, subtler than the Milanese, and they appreciate a quality knit. The

Romans have always known how to warm up, too: ancient thermal baths then; now earthy, robust flavours that lend themselves to long, cosy, calorific lunches. So what’s your fancy? Classical building? Baroque fountain? Gelato fit for an emperor? Rome’s perfect piazzas deliver all these delights and more. Can you see it all in a winter weekend? Of course. Here’s how.

Friday The joy of visiting Rome in winter is that Piazza Navona, the elegant showpiece square that’s too heavily thronged in busier seasons, hops back onto your must-see map. It’s marvellous for many reasons: buildings painted in 50 shades of glow (peach, terracotta, pink, ochre, mustard, butterscotch…); window boxes of geraniums; tiny, shutterframed attic windows that make you want to run off and haggle with the nearest estate agent; pavement artists who’ll sketch you before your coffee’s cool enough to drink. The fountains impress,

too, among them the Four Rivers, with its reach-for-the-stars obelisk and beefcake river gods at each corner. Who knew that Bernini studied acroyoga as well as Archimedes? Take a turn around this latter-day forum, then hunker down with cappuccino-and-cornetto at Caffè della Pace (Via della Pace 3/7; caffedellapace.it), an ivy-cloaked coffee house that’s put foam on the chin of patrons from Federico Fellini to Spike Lee.

This city was built, not in a day, but over 12 centuries, and every era’s starchitect - from Emperor Hadrian to Michelangelo, Bernini to contemporary queen of the swerve Zaha Hadid - has waggled a set square at it. Add in upscale painters and decorators - Raphael, Caravaggio, awesome-but-anonymous fresco-and icon-makers - and you have a recipe for a corker on every street corner.

But let’s start humble. Steps away from Piazza Navona lies Christmascake-like Baroque church San Luigi dei Francesi

49

February 2016World Traveller

(Piazza di San Luigi dei Francesi 5; free entry), where you’ll find three Caravaggio paintings that leave critics flailing. For me, the heart-thumper is Inspiration, painted against a background so black it looks like a hole in the spacetime continuum.

More substantial soul food? Take an appetite-honing stroll northwards along the Tiber, its waters trailed by the naked branches of bankside willows, then dive into the peaceful 19th-century neighbourhood around Largo Monte d’Oro. Welcome to the Roman mamma’s world: eagle-eyed matrons around orchards’ worth of apples, aubergines, artichokes and oranges. Pickings are just as rich in winter: witness the southern citrus whoppers that fill stalls in the piazza’s little covered market.

Take a table at nearby Settimio All’Arancio (Via dell’Arancio 50; 00 39 066 876119, settimioallarancio.it), where love of tradition shines out through every unforgiving light bulb. This is where to relax over the ballsy flavours that make

Make it cashmere, tied properly, please, so that it puffs out under your chin. The Romans are the best-dressed in Italy... they appreciate a quality knit

Roman cucina some of Italy’s best. Beside the local businessmen regulars, who take their food as seriously as their football, fortify yourself against seasonal chills and savour spicy, tomato-stewed meatballs with soothing potato purée.

Chase away sleepiness with a leg-stretch west to St Peter’s Basilica (Piazza San Pietro; mv.vatican.va; free), a building that’s beyond spectacular, and Instagram yourself peeping through the piazza’s semicircular colonnades. (The sky-scraping Egyptian obelisk in the centre nearly didn’t make it: when it was moved here in the 1580s, a beady-eyed spectator noticed the hoisting ropes were under such strain that they were smoking.) You could spend a week inside the basilica’s marblecloaked chapels, but plot a compass-straight course down the nave to give yourself enough shock-and-awe time over Michelangelo’s Pietà.

If you leave St Peter’s overcome with piety, blast your way back to Earth with an espresso at Castroni (Via Cola di

Opening pages: Colosseum.Previous pages, clockwise from top left: Exterior of the Pantheon; Heirloom tomatoes at a farmers market; Trevi fountain; View of Roman columns in St. Peter’s Square, Vatican City; Bramante’s staircase inside the Vatican Museum; A narrow street in Trastavere, Rome.These pages: Roman Forum Ruins, Rome.

DestinationsRome

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February 2016World Traveller

Leonina 46; mercatomonti. com), a weekly pop-up of stalls where creatives flog funky jewellery, delicate handmade hats and natural cosmetics.

Later, as the bruise-purple sky of twilight spills over the spires and cupolas in the centre, ease into the evening mood in the intimate, wood-panelled rooms of the Camponeschi in Piazza Farnese (ristorante camponeschi.it). Pluck a bottle from the list on the blackboard, go easy on the canapés, and drink in the sight of Rome’s pashmina-clad bel mondo disporting themselves in their post-imperial glamour.

There’s no better place to gorge, gourmet-style, than Antico Arco (Piazzale Aurelio 7; 00 39 06 581 5274, anticoarco.it;). Up on west-of-centre Gianicolo Hill, it’s a winter wonderland of silvery-white brick, fairy lights and bitter-chocolate-coloured chairs. On the menu: the likes of crispy duck leg with artichoke hearts and passion fruit, and the swooningly delicious Yoyo pudding (rich cocoa crumble with whipped cream, vanilla semifreddo, and strawberry salad).

Sunday Take a morning saunter through vine-traced, Vespa-lined Trastevere, Rome’s prettiest district, prior to turbo-charged coffee and connoisseurs’ cornetti at I Dolci di Checco (Via Benedetta 7; idolcidichecco.it). If the locals look grave, it’s because the ciambelle (buns of featherlight sweet sponge filled with cream) are a serious business.

Luckily for winter wanderers, ancient Rome isn’t always alfresco. The National Roman Museum (archeoroma.beniculturali.it) is packed with treasures, yet ignored by most tourists. The entry fee covers four sites across the city, but the biggies are in the Palazzo Massimo (Largo di Villa Peretti 67). Linger over the two versions of The Discobolus to absorb the true meaning of Platonic beauty. Then rejoice that you needn’t visit Pompeii to see ancient frescoes: the garden painted for Augustus’s wife, Livia, is right here. Blooming with swollen pomegranates, myrtle, oleander, laurel, quince, poppies, roses, irises and chrysanthemums, it’s a radiant testament to some of history’s greenest fingers.

From pilgrims to Grand Tourists, for centuries visitors knew they’d arrived in Rome when they saw the tip of the Egyptian obelisk towering over Piazza del Popolo at the gateway to the centro storico. Where better, then, to say your farewells than over a sundowner there at Canova (Piazza del Popolo 16; lnx.canovapiazzadelpopolo.it), which has been serving drinks to Rome’s Dolce Vita types since long before Signorina Ekberg splashed about in the Trevi Fountain. Take a table on the terrace if one of Rome’s pale winter sunsets is on the cards; otherwise, lounge inside, snaffling the dainty mini-sandwiches that star in every self-respecting aperitivo hour, before bidding arrivderchi.

Rienzo 196/198; castroni.it). This tiny cafe-cumgrocery has global reach: gift-hunters can go Italian with truffle paste and sun-dried tomatoes, but pick up a jar of dulce de leche, too - the Latin American caramel sauce is so delicious, ex-pats cross the city for their fix.

Friday night is music night, all year. The Auditorium Parco della Musica concert complex (Viale Pietro de Coubertin; 00 39 0680 241281,.auditorium.com), an easy cab-ride north, has conquered Roman ears and minds. Whether you hear Schumann taken to the edge of possibility by supremos such as pianist Mitsuko Uchida, or a homage to jazzman Jelly Roll Morton, there’s lots to love — not least the famously comfy seating in the sound-proofed pods perched around Renzo Piano’s piazza. Afterwards, fuel that post-concert post-mortem with a plate of cheeses at Red restaurant (00 39 06 8069 1630, redrestaurant.roma.it).

Saturday To see the Sistine Chapel (Vatican Museums; mv.vatican.va) crowd-free, get there at 8.30am, even if you’ve booked tickets online. When the doors open at 9am, go straight to the chapel — you should get 20 minutes before the hordes (yes, even in winter) arrive. Sated, amble through the museums, where the best of the rest are Raphael’s Rooms — can you spot Raphael’s mates posing as keen philosophers in his School of Athens painting? There’s Michelangelo as gloomy Heraclitus, and Raff as handsome Apelles.

Early birds deserve a slap-up brunch. Hop on the Metro to Cavour, just north of the Colosseum, for Monti, a rollercoaster

Luckily for winter wanderers, ancient Rome isn’t always alfresco

of cobbled streets where crumbly-chic, ochre-painted buildings were once a magnet for impoverished artisans. Today, gentrification has added a yuppie stratum. Join a local crowd of architects, designers and not-so-impoverished artisans at Urbana 47 (Via Urbana 47; 00 39 06 4788 4006, urbana47.it) for winter-warmer bagels and scrambled eggs, barley and bean soup, and pappardelle with mushrooms. It’s all raw brick, vintage furniture and Facebook-generation staff — wear Converse and high-waisted jeans and you’ll fit right in.

Blood circulating once more? Then nose around the fashion-forward boutiques of Monti. Putting the vogue into vintage, Pifebo (Via dei Serpenti 135/136 & 141; pifebo.com) is the place to buy a granny-gorgeous Chanel jacket or Gucci sunnies. For an even more eclectic ensemble, hit Mercato Monti (Grand Hotel Palatino, Via

Opening pages: Colosseum.Previous pages, clockwise from top left: Exterior of the Pantheon; Heirloom tomatoes at a farmers market; Trevi fountain; View of Roman columns in St. Peter’s Square, Vatican City; Bramante’s staircase inside the Vatican Museum; A narrow street in Trastavere, Rome.These pages: Roman Forum Ruins, Rome.

DestinationsRome

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February 2016World Traveller

Leonina 46; mercatomonti. com), a weekly pop-up of stalls where creatives flog funky jewellery, delicate handmade hats and natural cosmetics.

Later, as the bruise-purple sky of twilight spills over the spires and cupolas in the centre, ease into the evening mood in the intimate, wood-panelled rooms of the Camponeschi in Piazza Farnese (ristorante camponeschi.it). Pluck a bottle from the list on the blackboard, go easy on the canapés, and drink in the sight of Rome’s pashmina-clad bel mondo disporting themselves in their post-imperial glamour.

There’s no better place to gorge, gourmet-style, than Antico Arco (Piazzale Aurelio 7; 00 39 06 581 5274, anticoarco.it;). Up on west-of-centre Gianicolo Hill, it’s a winter wonderland of silvery-white brick, fairy lights and bitter-chocolate-coloured chairs. On the menu: the likes of crispy duck leg with artichoke hearts and passion fruit, and the swooningly delicious Yoyo pudding (rich cocoa crumble with whipped cream, vanilla semifreddo, and strawberry salad).

Sunday Take a morning saunter through vine-traced, Vespa-lined Trastevere, Rome’s prettiest district, prior to turbo-charged coffee and connoisseurs’ cornetti at I Dolci di Checco (Via Benedetta 7; idolcidichecco.it). If the locals look grave, it’s because the ciambelle (buns of featherlight sweet sponge filled with cream) are a serious business.

Luckily for winter wanderers, ancient Rome isn’t always alfresco. The National Roman Museum (archeoroma.beniculturali.it) is packed with treasures, yet ignored by most tourists. The entry fee covers four sites across the city, but the biggies are in the Palazzo Massimo (Largo di Villa Peretti 67). Linger over the two versions of The Discobolus to absorb the true meaning of Platonic beauty. Then rejoice that you needn’t visit Pompeii to see ancient frescoes: the garden painted for Augustus’s wife, Livia, is right here. Blooming with swollen pomegranates, myrtle, oleander, laurel, quince, poppies, roses, irises and chrysanthemums, it’s a radiant testament to some of history’s greenest fingers.

From pilgrims to Grand Tourists, for centuries visitors knew they’d arrived in Rome when they saw the tip of the Egyptian obelisk towering over Piazza del Popolo at the gateway to the centro storico. Where better, then, to say your farewells than over a sundowner there at Canova (Piazza del Popolo 16; lnx.canovapiazzadelpopolo.it), which has been serving drinks to Rome’s Dolce Vita types since long before Signorina Ekberg splashed about in the Trevi Fountain. Take a table on the terrace if one of Rome’s pale winter sunsets is on the cards; otherwise, lounge inside, snaffling the dainty mini-sandwiches that star in every self-respecting aperitivo hour, before bidding arrivderchi.

Rienzo 196/198; castroni.it). This tiny cafe-cumgrocery has global reach: gift-hunters can go Italian with truffle paste and sun-dried tomatoes, but pick up a jar of dulce de leche, too - the Latin American caramel sauce is so delicious, ex-pats cross the city for their fix.

Friday night is music night, all year. The Auditorium Parco della Musica concert complex (Viale Pietro de Coubertin; 00 39 0680 241281,.auditorium.com), an easy cab-ride north, has conquered Roman ears and minds. Whether you hear Schumann taken to the edge of possibility by supremos such as pianist Mitsuko Uchida, or a homage to jazzman Jelly Roll Morton, there’s lots to love — not least the famously comfy seating in the sound-proofed pods perched around Renzo Piano’s piazza. Afterwards, fuel that post-concert post-mortem with a plate of cheeses at Red restaurant (00 39 06 8069 1630, redrestaurant.roma.it).

Saturday To see the Sistine Chapel (Vatican Museums; mv.vatican.va) crowd-free, get there at 8.30am, even if you’ve booked tickets online. When the doors open at 9am, go straight to the chapel — you should get 20 minutes before the hordes (yes, even in winter) arrive. Sated, amble through the museums, where the best of the rest are Raphael’s Rooms — can you spot Raphael’s mates posing as keen philosophers in his School of Athens painting? There’s Michelangelo as gloomy Heraclitus, and Raff as handsome Apelles.

Early birds deserve a slap-up brunch. Hop on the Metro to Cavour, just north of the Colosseum, for Monti, a rollercoaster

Luckily for winter wanderers, ancient Rome isn’t always alfresco

of cobbled streets where crumbly-chic, ochre-painted buildings were once a magnet for impoverished artisans. Today, gentrification has added a yuppie stratum. Join a local crowd of architects, designers and not-so-impoverished artisans at Urbana 47 (Via Urbana 47; 00 39 06 4788 4006, urbana47.it) for winter-warmer bagels and scrambled eggs, barley and bean soup, and pappardelle with mushrooms. It’s all raw brick, vintage furniture and Facebook-generation staff — wear Converse and high-waisted jeans and you’ll fit right in.

Blood circulating once more? Then nose around the fashion-forward boutiques of Monti. Putting the vogue into vintage, Pifebo (Via dei Serpenti 135/136 & 141; pifebo.com) is the place to buy a granny-gorgeous Chanel jacket or Gucci sunnies. For an even more eclectic ensemble, hit Mercato Monti (Grand Hotel Palatino, Via

5252

A dash of indulgence, a splash of spirituality, a twinkle of weirdness… Can the charm of off-season Bali seduce sceptical Lucy Thackray, and send her home a karma person?

DestinationsBali

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February 2016World Traveller

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A dash of indulgence, a splash of spirituality, a twinkle of weirdness… Can the charm of off-season Bali seduce sceptical Lucy Thackray, and send her home a karma person?

DestinationsBali

5353

February 2016World Traveller

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DestinationsBali

‘I ’ll be a little late to lunch. I’m having my root chakra cleansed.’ You know you’ve been in Bali too long

when you rattle off such things as if they were a dentist’s appointment. But I am in an astonishingly scenic spa hut in the middle of a vast lily pond in Sayan, at the very heart of this jungly island. And it’s quite a ritual. It starts with my therapist showing me how to pat out negative energy through my limbs, and inwardly pat in the positive. Suppressing my urge to giggle, I go with it, whacking the length of my arms with gusto. Gentle rain begins to ripple the pond, and I inhale the wet-plant smell as we pat. The more time you spend on this earthy island, it seems, the less you question the hippie-dippy stuff. It’s probably why so many tourists become expats. It’s definitely why, two weeks into my trip, I’m enduring all the whacking.

This is all part of a complex ‘spa journey’, but it’s one footprint in a much bigger personal voyage. I came from London, whipped by winds and the dull numbness of bereavement. I love my own island but, for me, it’s lost a little of its beauty, a lot of its softness, in the past few months. I’ve come to Bali with a man, on a whim (my crush on Bali will far outlast my crush on him), to rediscover the good things in life. And in Bali, world spa and spirituality-HQ, the priority is your equilibrium. Normally, I’m sceptical of spa rituals that fiddle with your chakras, but in the hollowed-out state I’m in, I’ve never been more receptive to some expert healing.

Two weeks ago Alex and I landed on this frangipani scented isle and zipped up the west coast, past luxury resort-littered Kuta and glitzy surfer-magnet Seminyak, to Kerambitan, in the Tabanan region. Here, in the ‘rice bowl’ of Bali, the beaches are a gritty, volcanic black, the landscape made up of muddy tracks dividing mile upon mile of lush green paddies. As our car winds away from the south’s concrete crossroads, it feels as if we’re going back in time. Ugly tower blocks and billboards give way to petite, crumbling village temples and shrines, tile-makers’ yards, scampering roosters and those shelving layers of green that feed the island. It’s February, wet season, and though we see only a sprinkling of rain each day, these nourished rice fields appear preternaturally green.

Home for our first few days is Alila Villas

55

February 2016World Traveller

it at work; as village kids wave shyly to us, showing us their toys, my mind feels quiet for the first time in months.

Sana takes us to the Royal Palace of Kerambitan, an ornate, moss-studded compound built in 1650. As Alex wanders ahead, snapping photos of mischievous geckos and garland-draped shrines, Sana explains the functions of the different pavilions (coming-of-age ceremonies, weddings, laying out the dead) and tells me stories that breathe life into the grimacing gargoyles, all characters from the Hindu epic Mahabharata. Most relished is his tale of the old Tabanan king who promised the second wife in his harem that if she bore him a son, the child would rule. However, the old man’s first spouse popped out a prince within days of the second, leading to great debate and unrest over which was the rightful heir. I brace myself for a story of brutal fratricide, a civil war. ‘So we decide to have two kings, two palaces,’ says Sana, with a giggle that whistles through his teeth. Bali really is that serene. Kings? The more the merrier.

After our royal masterclass, we dine like lords on the cliff above the hotel, watching conical-hatted fishermen cast lines from the rocks below. It’s a picnic of nasi campur, a bit of everything: rice, noodles, sweet-and-sour pork, crispy shreds of duck — Bali’s culinary greatest hits, wrapped in a banana leaf. After a lazy hour, we saunter back for our first ‘spa journey’: a scrub-down with volcanic rocks, then a milky scented bath and one of those famously firm Balinese massages. I feel like giggling again — at ticklish foot rubs, shared baths in unflattering paper pants, and my mad, greasy post-spa hair. ‘We look absurd,’ grumbles Alex. He says it as if that’s a bad thing, but afterwards I feel looser, lighter. Something’s working.

Following the curliest roads and the blackest sand, we snake our way to Lovina, in the north. En route through the mountains, our chatty driver, Ketut, suggests we road-trip. Tip: research drivers before you go— many have their own websites with contact details, and prices can be negotiated. Expect to pay about $37 for a whole day’s chauffeuring, while two-hour transfers are $14-$22. Driving times between coastal resorts are quoted (with a shrug and a smile) at anywhere from two

Soori, a discreet beach hotel that blends into the wild terrain. Our sugar-cube of a villa has a prime view of the charcoal sands, where angry grey waves crunch rhythmically, prohibiting an ocean swim. This time of year, it seems, means peace from fellow guests, if not the waves, and we find just a few fellow diners lounging on the restaurant’s deck. We get our first taste of the belly-warming Balinese diet (‘Rice for breakfast, lunch and dinner!’ jokes –I think – more than one local). We sip locally-brewed drinks and gaze mutely at the moonlit bay. Later, those feral waves keep me awake, while Alex snores the resounding snore of the untroubled holidaymaker. Crumpled from the long flight and clinging worries of home, I focus on that magnetic green backcountry I saw on our drive here - the one we’ll explore tomorrow - and drift off.

Opening pages: Fisherman on Lake Batur at sunrise. These pages: A tropical rainforest in Bali.

As village kids wave shyly to us, showing us their toys, my mind feels quiet for the first time in months

We wake early for a locals’ tour of Kerambitan. This isn’t the sexy, tourist-centric Bali of honeymoon brochures, but a peek into workaday life. At tile yards, we watch how the terracotta mix is squelched flat in a hand-turned press and dried in the sun. We shelter in a ceramics workshop, where women placidly shape and paint beautiful incense burners, vases and teapots. (Later, in shopping capital Ubud, I’ll kick myself for not snapping them up for pennies here, before they’re sent there and marked up to $22). We meet the blacksmith, hammering out knives in the firepit in his garden, and serendipitously - because spirituality seems to be woven into everyday life here - we catch our first ritual. His wife, clad in the jewel-bright traditional blouse, sarong and sash, brings out flowers, incense and a banana leaf. It’s stuffed with a spoonful of the lunch she’s cooked. Sana, our guide, explains that Balinese Hindus share some of their food daily with the gods, to show thanks and encourage good fortune. Karma is king here, and you can almost feel

54

DestinationsBali

‘I ’ll be a little late to lunch. I’m having my root chakra cleansed.’ You know you’ve been in Bali too long

when you rattle off such things as if they were a dentist’s appointment. But I am in an astonishingly scenic spa hut in the middle of a vast lily pond in Sayan, at the very heart of this jungly island. And it’s quite a ritual. It starts with my therapist showing me how to pat out negative energy through my limbs, and inwardly pat in the positive. Suppressing my urge to giggle, I go with it, whacking the length of my arms with gusto. Gentle rain begins to ripple the pond, and I inhale the wet-plant smell as we pat. The more time you spend on this earthy island, it seems, the less you question the hippie-dippy stuff. It’s probably why so many tourists become expats. It’s definitely why, two weeks into my trip, I’m enduring all the whacking.

This is all part of a complex ‘spa journey’, but it’s one footprint in a much bigger personal voyage. I came from London, whipped by winds and the dull numbness of bereavement. I love my own island but, for me, it’s lost a little of its beauty, a lot of its softness, in the past few months. I’ve come to Bali with a man, on a whim (my crush on Bali will far outlast my crush on him), to rediscover the good things in life. And in Bali, world spa and spirituality-HQ, the priority is your equilibrium. Normally, I’m sceptical of spa rituals that fiddle with your chakras, but in the hollowed-out state I’m in, I’ve never been more receptive to some expert healing.

Two weeks ago Alex and I landed on this frangipani scented isle and zipped up the west coast, past luxury resort-littered Kuta and glitzy surfer-magnet Seminyak, to Kerambitan, in the Tabanan region. Here, in the ‘rice bowl’ of Bali, the beaches are a gritty, volcanic black, the landscape made up of muddy tracks dividing mile upon mile of lush green paddies. As our car winds away from the south’s concrete crossroads, it feels as if we’re going back in time. Ugly tower blocks and billboards give way to petite, crumbling village temples and shrines, tile-makers’ yards, scampering roosters and those shelving layers of green that feed the island. It’s February, wet season, and though we see only a sprinkling of rain each day, these nourished rice fields appear preternaturally green.

Home for our first few days is Alila Villas

55

February 2016World Traveller

it at work; as village kids wave shyly to us, showing us their toys, my mind feels quiet for the first time in months.

Sana takes us to the Royal Palace of Kerambitan, an ornate, moss-studded compound built in 1650. As Alex wanders ahead, snapping photos of mischievous geckos and garland-draped shrines, Sana explains the functions of the different pavilions (coming-of-age ceremonies, weddings, laying out the dead) and tells me stories that breathe life into the grimacing gargoyles, all characters from the Hindu epic Mahabharata. Most relished is his tale of the old Tabanan king who promised the second wife in his harem that if she bore him a son, the child would rule. However, the old man’s first spouse popped out a prince within days of the second, leading to great debate and unrest over which was the rightful heir. I brace myself for a story of brutal fratricide, a civil war. ‘So we decide to have two kings, two palaces,’ says Sana, with a giggle that whistles through his teeth. Bali really is that serene. Kings? The more the merrier.

After our royal masterclass, we dine like lords on the cliff above the hotel, watching conical-hatted fishermen cast lines from the rocks below. It’s a picnic of nasi campur, a bit of everything: rice, noodles, sweet-and-sour pork, crispy shreds of duck — Bali’s culinary greatest hits, wrapped in a banana leaf. After a lazy hour, we saunter back for our first ‘spa journey’: a scrub-down with volcanic rocks, then a milky scented bath and one of those famously firm Balinese massages. I feel like giggling again — at ticklish foot rubs, shared baths in unflattering paper pants, and my mad, greasy post-spa hair. ‘We look absurd,’ grumbles Alex. He says it as if that’s a bad thing, but afterwards I feel looser, lighter. Something’s working.

Following the curliest roads and the blackest sand, we snake our way to Lovina, in the north. En route through the mountains, our chatty driver, Ketut, suggests we road-trip. Tip: research drivers before you go— many have their own websites with contact details, and prices can be negotiated. Expect to pay about $37 for a whole day’s chauffeuring, while two-hour transfers are $14-$22. Driving times between coastal resorts are quoted (with a shrug and a smile) at anywhere from two

Soori, a discreet beach hotel that blends into the wild terrain. Our sugar-cube of a villa has a prime view of the charcoal sands, where angry grey waves crunch rhythmically, prohibiting an ocean swim. This time of year, it seems, means peace from fellow guests, if not the waves, and we find just a few fellow diners lounging on the restaurant’s deck. We get our first taste of the belly-warming Balinese diet (‘Rice for breakfast, lunch and dinner!’ jokes –I think – more than one local). We sip locally-brewed drinks and gaze mutely at the moonlit bay. Later, those feral waves keep me awake, while Alex snores the resounding snore of the untroubled holidaymaker. Crumpled from the long flight and clinging worries of home, I focus on that magnetic green backcountry I saw on our drive here - the one we’ll explore tomorrow - and drift off.

Opening pages: Fisherman on Lake Batur at sunrise. These pages: A tropical rainforest in Bali.

As village kids wave shyly to us, showing us their toys, my mind feels quiet for the first time in months

We wake early for a locals’ tour of Kerambitan. This isn’t the sexy, tourist-centric Bali of honeymoon brochures, but a peek into workaday life. At tile yards, we watch how the terracotta mix is squelched flat in a hand-turned press and dried in the sun. We shelter in a ceramics workshop, where women placidly shape and paint beautiful incense burners, vases and teapots. (Later, in shopping capital Ubud, I’ll kick myself for not snapping them up for pennies here, before they’re sent there and marked up to $22). We meet the blacksmith, hammering out knives in the firepit in his garden, and serendipitously - because spirituality seems to be woven into everyday life here - we catch our first ritual. His wife, clad in the jewel-bright traditional blouse, sarong and sash, brings out flowers, incense and a banana leaf. It’s stuffed with a spoonful of the lunch she’s cooked. Sana, our guide, explains that Balinese Hindus share some of their food daily with the gods, to show thanks and encourage good fortune. Karma is king here, and you can almost feel

56

DestinationsBali

to four hours, depending on the weather and state of the roads, so we gladly get out and stretch at the roadside. A petite young woman appears with a bundle of bright umbrellas. It has started to rain, a patter of warm, wet kisses that’s welcome in this heat, so we each grab one and, nodded along by Ketut, follow her up a thick jungly mountain path.

We emerge in central Bali’s answer to Starbucks - if Starbucks led you past an employee placidly stirring roasting coffee beans and invited you to have a go at grinding some. If it took you through a winding plantation, pointing out the arabica plants, ginger stems and banana trees as you brushed past, and seated you at a rickety pavilion with a view of the glistening valley below. If it poured thimble-sized tasters of fresh lemongrass tea, mangosteen peel infusions and, of course, the sought-after kopi luwak - the coffee picked and pre-digested by civet cats, which curl lazily around tree trunks, metres from our cloud-nine coffee shop. (‘Oh,’ says my head. ‘I’m not sure I want to drink glorified cat poo.’ ‘Ah, go on,’ says my heart, slowed by sunshine and massages). We sip, we buy, we stumble back down the hill in a caffeinated haze. As we rumble on northwards, our ‘coffee break’ feels like a dream, but my eyes are shining as I meditate on the unexpected views, scents and flavours I’ve just taken in.

Clockwise from bottom left: Woman carrying baskets through rice terrace; Rice fields and Gunung Agung Volcano; A man at work harvesting seaweed; Hot stone massage; Moored boat before the Danu Temple.

A pink sun peeks from behind the mountains, warming my back while sea spray cools my face

Lovina is now said to be attracting summer regulars, tiring of the crowded south, but we find the beach resort gorgeously sleepy, with a few quiet beachfront hotels and cafes just about ticking over until the dry season. Settling into a family-owned villa overlooking a lush valley, golden sand and sea beyond, I turn in monkishly early (and sleep my most untroubled sleep in months) before another early start. Setting off before dawn is a must for dolphin-watching - a key draw of the wild north coast. I’m nervous about what we’ve signed up for, but as we clamber onto a slim white catamaran and glide off into the bay, my thoughts melt away with the tranquil darkness.

We bounce across glass-smooth waters in hot pursuit of these speedy attention-seekers, which acknowledge us with the odd circus-worthy leap. A pink sun peeks from behind the mountains, warming my back while sea spray cools my face. This is why I came here, I think. It’s the cheapest therapy ever — total bliss and exhilaration for $7. Back on dry land, we sink into

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Lovina’s particular brand of chill for a few more days. That means grounding ambles along the waterfront, befriending stray puppies and discovering two slender lanes of gift shops and market stalls to haggle at (sarong purchases can get out of hand here). It’s what the term ‘low-key’ was made for, and it couldn’t be more different from our next stop, Amankila, a palace-on-a-cliff selling seclusion to a wealthier set of Bali connoisseurs. I’m sure it can’t be as serene as our north-coast find — but checking into a high-walled villa, linked to the pool terrace and private beach by ivory walkways, we hardly see another soul. This is the place to be lazy in Bali, I decide. I astonish myself with my capacity for sloth - and its healing powers - devouring books beside its cascading infinity pools, nibbling watermelon ice-lollies brought unsolicited by staff. Alex prefers runs on the beach and zesty fish tacos on the shaded Bali beds, and we slip into a cycle of greediness, rest and more massages.

It’s as soul-soothing as anywhere we’ve lounged on this island, but the peace makes my mind whir once more — and I realise that it’s the seeing and doing that has calmed me most. So we keep moving, now to Ubud, Bali’s spiritual capital, with its cheap day-spas, hippie boutiques and juice bars. We base ourselves at the Four Seasons in nearby Sayan, to dip in and out of Ubud’s friendly chaos, and it’s here that I’m forced to really stop. The chakra cleanse is weird, but no more so than the wooden throne I am placed on, robe yanked aside, loo-style hole emitting clouds of ‘cleansing’ incense smoke; certainly no weirder than the singing bowl rung over my prone body mid-massage, my hands and feet weighted down with sachets of hot ginger. It feels amazing. As my spa guru massages my scalp, I stare out at raindrop-jewelled water lilies, feeling all heaviness drift from me: aches, pains, stress, loss. For a moment, I feel somewhere close to whole.

The change has come over me slowly: a dip into village life, a little dolphin-flicked sea spray, a sip of mountain-grown coffee, a headful of endless, gold-green rice fields. But I no longer snigger when having my feet reverently washed. I wear paper pants like they’re Levi’s. And I’ve come to accept the deep spiritual benefit of a good incense-smoking. I feel calm, thankful — for this view, this island, and its ability to press pause on my life.

In a few months, ‘London me’ will laugh at ‘Bali me’, so inflated with spa Zen, but I don’t care. I’d underestimated the power of Bali’s therapeutic culture — of regular, expert massage, sweet, musky scents and peaceful garden views. This journey might not have fixed me, but it’s worked a little of its Eastern-medicine magic on my insides. And I’ll always be grateful for that. Maybe one day I’ll come back a stronger, more robust person. Maybe I’ll lay a little garland of thanks.

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DestinationsBali

to four hours, depending on the weather and state of the roads, so we gladly get out and stretch at the roadside. A petite young woman appears with a bundle of bright umbrellas. It has started to rain, a patter of warm, wet kisses that’s welcome in this heat, so we each grab one and, nodded along by Ketut, follow her up a thick jungly mountain path.

We emerge in central Bali’s answer to Starbucks - if Starbucks led you past an employee placidly stirring roasting coffee beans and invited you to have a go at grinding some. If it took you through a winding plantation, pointing out the arabica plants, ginger stems and banana trees as you brushed past, and seated you at a rickety pavilion with a view of the glistening valley below. If it poured thimble-sized tasters of fresh lemongrass tea, mangosteen peel infusions and, of course, the sought-after kopi luwak - the coffee picked and pre-digested by civet cats, which curl lazily around tree trunks, metres from our cloud-nine coffee shop. (‘Oh,’ says my head. ‘I’m not sure I want to drink glorified cat poo.’ ‘Ah, go on,’ says my heart, slowed by sunshine and massages). We sip, we buy, we stumble back down the hill in a caffeinated haze. As we rumble on northwards, our ‘coffee break’ feels like a dream, but my eyes are shining as I meditate on the unexpected views, scents and flavours I’ve just taken in.

Clockwise from bottom left: Woman carrying baskets through rice terrace; Rice fields and Gunung Agung Volcano; A man at work harvesting seaweed; Hot stone massage; Moored boat before the Danu Temple.

A pink sun peeks from behind the mountains, warming my back while sea spray cools my face

Lovina is now said to be attracting summer regulars, tiring of the crowded south, but we find the beach resort gorgeously sleepy, with a few quiet beachfront hotels and cafes just about ticking over until the dry season. Settling into a family-owned villa overlooking a lush valley, golden sand and sea beyond, I turn in monkishly early (and sleep my most untroubled sleep in months) before another early start. Setting off before dawn is a must for dolphin-watching - a key draw of the wild north coast. I’m nervous about what we’ve signed up for, but as we clamber onto a slim white catamaran and glide off into the bay, my thoughts melt away with the tranquil darkness.

We bounce across glass-smooth waters in hot pursuit of these speedy attention-seekers, which acknowledge us with the odd circus-worthy leap. A pink sun peeks from behind the mountains, warming my back while sea spray cools my face. This is why I came here, I think. It’s the cheapest therapy ever — total bliss and exhilaration for $7. Back on dry land, we sink into

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Lovina’s particular brand of chill for a few more days. That means grounding ambles along the waterfront, befriending stray puppies and discovering two slender lanes of gift shops and market stalls to haggle at (sarong purchases can get out of hand here). It’s what the term ‘low-key’ was made for, and it couldn’t be more different from our next stop, Amankila, a palace-on-a-cliff selling seclusion to a wealthier set of Bali connoisseurs. I’m sure it can’t be as serene as our north-coast find — but checking into a high-walled villa, linked to the pool terrace and private beach by ivory walkways, we hardly see another soul. This is the place to be lazy in Bali, I decide. I astonish myself with my capacity for sloth - and its healing powers - devouring books beside its cascading infinity pools, nibbling watermelon ice-lollies brought unsolicited by staff. Alex prefers runs on the beach and zesty fish tacos on the shaded Bali beds, and we slip into a cycle of greediness, rest and more massages.

It’s as soul-soothing as anywhere we’ve lounged on this island, but the peace makes my mind whir once more — and I realise that it’s the seeing and doing that has calmed me most. So we keep moving, now to Ubud, Bali’s spiritual capital, with its cheap day-spas, hippie boutiques and juice bars. We base ourselves at the Four Seasons in nearby Sayan, to dip in and out of Ubud’s friendly chaos, and it’s here that I’m forced to really stop. The chakra cleanse is weird, but no more so than the wooden throne I am placed on, robe yanked aside, loo-style hole emitting clouds of ‘cleansing’ incense smoke; certainly no weirder than the singing bowl rung over my prone body mid-massage, my hands and feet weighted down with sachets of hot ginger. It feels amazing. As my spa guru massages my scalp, I stare out at raindrop-jewelled water lilies, feeling all heaviness drift from me: aches, pains, stress, loss. For a moment, I feel somewhere close to whole.

The change has come over me slowly: a dip into village life, a little dolphin-flicked sea spray, a sip of mountain-grown coffee, a headful of endless, gold-green rice fields. But I no longer snigger when having my feet reverently washed. I wear paper pants like they’re Levi’s. And I’ve come to accept the deep spiritual benefit of a good incense-smoking. I feel calm, thankful — for this view, this island, and its ability to press pause on my life.

In a few months, ‘London me’ will laugh at ‘Bali me’, so inflated with spa Zen, but I don’t care. I’d underestimated the power of Bali’s therapeutic culture — of regular, expert massage, sweet, musky scents and peaceful garden views. This journey might not have fixed me, but it’s worked a little of its Eastern-medicine magic on my insides. And I’ll always be grateful for that. Maybe one day I’ll come back a stronger, more robust person. Maybe I’ll lay a little garland of thanks.

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DestinationsGreek Islands

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Crowd-free coves and hushed hideaways that this Greek explorer wouldn’t be able to resist

Pytheas’ Paradise

DestinationsGreek Islands

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February 2016World Traveller

Fourni, Northeastern AegeanFor… the Greece of 30 years agoThe mini-archipelago of Fourni – a dozen islets, mountains and bays between Samos, Patmos and Ikaria – encircles a magnificent hidden harbour, once used as a secret lair by pirates for pouncing on passing ships. In recent years, fishing has become the main occupation, because the tourist scene is delightfully lagging: boat schedules make day trips tricky, and most visitors to the larger neighbouring islands are too lazy to put in the effort. Which means the ‘capital’, Fourni Korseon, is still the archetypal Greek-island fishing village of yore. Laid-back and very friendly, it’s full of character, with tiny old-fashioned shops along the Agora, tucked under mulberry trees. Even in the main square you can hear cats mewing, dogs barking and cocks crowing.

Most of the island’s accommodation is here, including the most elegant digs, the little Archipelagos Hotel on the waterfront; brave its steep steps for the best views. Thanks to all those fishermen, Fourni’s tavernas have some of the cheapest, freshest seafood in Greece – try the harbour-front Nikos, where you can choose from various dishes displayed in pots in the kitchen. archipelagoshotel.gr

There’s a town beach, and another nearby, Psili Ammos, with a bit of shade. Alternatively, make the 20-minute walk, by way of some windmills, to the twin sandy bays of Kambi, with its shady tamarisks and taverna. There are other sandy coves (most accessible only by boat) that you can have to yourself, but Fourni’s public transport is taxis (although you can rent a motorbike). However you opt to travel, at some point be sure to ride or walk across Fourni’s ridge – with staggering views over the jigsaw coast as far as Turkey – to the hill-hugging hamlet of Chryssomilia, with its blissful sandy beach and taverna. All this sounding a little too ‘busy’? Take things down a notch and grab a taxi-caïque over to Fourni’s sister island, Thymena, which has an even smaller village and a great beach, Keramidous.

Ano Koufonissi, Lesser CycladesFor… a couple’s beach breakWith its windmill spiralling above its main wharf, Ano Koufonissi recalls Mykonos. But similarities end here. This is an intimate, charming island that’s small enough to walk in a day. Its waters are calm, clean, safe, its beaches sheltered from the wind.

For decades, this tiny archipelago-within-an-archipelago was only for dedicated beachcombers, reached by slow boat from Naxos Town. Nowadays, you can take a ferry from Piraeus but it’s more romantic to arrive the old way, aboard the Express Skopelitis, the boat that has long kept Ano Koufonissi in touch with the rest of Greece.

Chora town’s beach is just 50m from the Hotel Myrto, which has the island’s best views. Walk east and you’ll find hidden coves, perfect for privacy-seeking couples.

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DestinationsGreek Islands

58

Crowd-free coves and hushed hideaways that this Greek explorer wouldn’t be able to resist

Pytheas’ Paradise

DestinationsGreek Islands

59

February 2016World Traveller

Fourni, Northeastern AegeanFor… the Greece of 30 years agoThe mini-archipelago of Fourni – a dozen islets, mountains and bays between Samos, Patmos and Ikaria – encircles a magnificent hidden harbour, once used as a secret lair by pirates for pouncing on passing ships. In recent years, fishing has become the main occupation, because the tourist scene is delightfully lagging: boat schedules make day trips tricky, and most visitors to the larger neighbouring islands are too lazy to put in the effort. Which means the ‘capital’, Fourni Korseon, is still the archetypal Greek-island fishing village of yore. Laid-back and very friendly, it’s full of character, with tiny old-fashioned shops along the Agora, tucked under mulberry trees. Even in the main square you can hear cats mewing, dogs barking and cocks crowing.

Most of the island’s accommodation is here, including the most elegant digs, the little Archipelagos Hotel on the waterfront; brave its steep steps for the best views. Thanks to all those fishermen, Fourni’s tavernas have some of the cheapest, freshest seafood in Greece – try the harbour-front Nikos, where you can choose from various dishes displayed in pots in the kitchen. archipelagoshotel.gr

There’s a town beach, and another nearby, Psili Ammos, with a bit of shade. Alternatively, make the 20-minute walk, by way of some windmills, to the twin sandy bays of Kambi, with its shady tamarisks and taverna. There are other sandy coves (most accessible only by boat) that you can have to yourself, but Fourni’s public transport is taxis (although you can rent a motorbike). However you opt to travel, at some point be sure to ride or walk across Fourni’s ridge – with staggering views over the jigsaw coast as far as Turkey – to the hill-hugging hamlet of Chryssomilia, with its blissful sandy beach and taverna. All this sounding a little too ‘busy’? Take things down a notch and grab a taxi-caïque over to Fourni’s sister island, Thymena, which has an even smaller village and a great beach, Keramidous.

Ano Koufonissi, Lesser CycladesFor… a couple’s beach breakWith its windmill spiralling above its main wharf, Ano Koufonissi recalls Mykonos. But similarities end here. This is an intimate, charming island that’s small enough to walk in a day. Its waters are calm, clean, safe, its beaches sheltered from the wind.

For decades, this tiny archipelago-within-an-archipelago was only for dedicated beachcombers, reached by slow boat from Naxos Town. Nowadays, you can take a ferry from Piraeus but it’s more romantic to arrive the old way, aboard the Express Skopelitis, the boat that has long kept Ano Koufonissi in touch with the rest of Greece.

Chora town’s beach is just 50m from the Hotel Myrto, which has the island’s best views. Walk east and you’ll find hidden coves, perfect for privacy-seeking couples.

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February 2016World Traveller

If coves don’t seduce you, press on, and after 15 minutes, the waft of barbecued seafood heralds Fínikas beach and its shaded fish taverna. myrto-hotel.com

You could hike further, to Fanos, with its up-for-it beach-bar, or to the sylph-like curves of Italida, encompassing a few clothing optional bays. But don’t leave without clambering over the headland to Pori. Here, you’ll discover so many secluded bays that, even in high season, you’re sure to find a private spot to relax à deux.

Samothraki, Northeastern Aegean For… ancient magicSamothraki has everything we crave from a Greek island: beaches, tavernas, a major archaeological site, traditional villages and gorgeous walks. And yet it remains blissfully uncrowded. There’s no real reason for this, except that it’s way off in the far Northeast Aegean – so close to Turkey’s Troy that Poseidon could watch the Trojan War from the island’s Mount Fengari.

Samothraki wasn’t always so obscure. In ancient times, it attracted pilgrims (including the parents of Alexander the Great) from across the Mediterranean world, to be initiated into long-lost underworld mysteries. Although the Louvre bagged the Sanctuary’s majestic Winged Victory, the ruins of its shrines and temples arrayed on a wooded hillside are still wonderfully evocative, reverberating with tinkling goat-bells. odysseus.culture.gr

The island still retains something of its ancient magic, especially at Therma Loutra, an idyllic Arcadia of springs and ancient chestnuts, myrtle, and enormous plane trees twisting like ancient dancers. Paths lead up the Gria Vathra and Fonias ravines to waterfalls and refreshing pools straight out of a shampoo ad (wear good shoes). Stay by a quiet beach amid the hydrangeas at Therma Loutra at the family-run Archondissa. archondissa.gr

All the island’s restaurants are good and reasonably priced, but hire a car, if only for a day, to follow the locals up the rough road to the blissfully authentic Taverna Karydies in Ano Meria for its exquisitely tender wild kid. Join a boat tour to visit the savage southeast coast, worth it for a 180m waterfall tumbling into the sea; caves of monk seals; and the island’s most beautiful beach pebbly Vatos, at the end of a wooded ravine.

Arki, Dodecanese For... that Robinson Crusoe feeling The holy island of Patmos is mother ship to a scattering of islets that once belonged to the Monastery of St John the Evangelist. The biggest of these, Lipsi, has a superb sandy beach that draws most of the day-trippers, while rocky and arid little Arki is ideal for anyone craving the next best thing to being cast away on a desert island. It has four beaches, a few trees, and enough wild

thyme and other plants to scent the air and support a few goats and rabbits.

Most residents live near the Lilliputian port, and a few offer rooms. Stay and dine at the Nikolas Tavern, where Maria serves baby kid, seafood and Arki’s cheese, ksinomizitra. arki-island.eu

There’s no pressure to see any sights here – there’s only a stalactite cave to explore in the north. Arki’s best beach, Tiganakia, with a mix of sand and pebbles, is a 45-minute walk from the port; the water here is so clear that boats seem suspended in mid-air, casting shadows over the sea. To the east there are three other smaller offerings, Limnaria, Kapaliasmenos and Melissa, and to really play Robinson Crusoe, try swimming over to the deserted nearby islets. But most of all, Arki is an island for sheer indulgence: for daydreaming over a carafe of ouzo, for catching up on your reading, for gazing up at the night sky.

Othoni, Diapontia For… Corfu-like lush beauty (without the crowds) Corfu is rugged, outrageously fertile and encircled by sandy beaches. For the same appeal in a tiny, crowd-free package, carry on 15km northwest to Othoni, Greece’s westernmost point. Only a few hundred people call it home.

With its secretive coves and transparent blue-green waters, Othoni is beloved of sailors – most famously Odysseus, who spent seven years here in the arms of the nymph Calypso. If you haven’t brought your yacht (Othoni sees quite a few, sailing between Greece and Italy), then stay in Ammos, the main settlement, facing a long white beach. The new Calypso Hotel comprises simple apartments and studios or try Italian-run Locanda dei Sogni, with seaside rooms and a taverna dishing up the day’s catch, grilled vegetables and their own blend of coffees. othonoi.gr

Hop on a boat-taxi from Ammos, and you’ll soon be touring Othoni’s eroded cliffs, passing Calypso’s love nest, a sea grotto carved 100m into the rock. Next to it are the sands of Aspri Ammos, the island’s most spectacular beach, a cliff-embraced crescent, prettily studded with boulders and lapped by a turquoise sea. The seemingly clement waters hide two sunken steamships; if you’re feeling adventurous, explore their watery depths on a dive. divecorfu.com

Besides lazing on beaches and messing about on boats, days on Othoni mean wandering along old mule paths through wild sage and myrtle, orchards, cypresses and olive groves. Don’t miss the British-built lighthouse of 1872; the little Venetian fort on a precipice; or the Iliovasilema Belvedere for ravishing sunsets. But there’s something rewarding about hiking up the 393m slopes of Merovigli, Othoni’s highest point, for the stunning views of the Italian coast, Albania, the other Diapontia islands, and Corfu.

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DestinationsGreek Islands

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February 2016World Traveller

If coves don’t seduce you, press on, and after 15 minutes, the waft of barbecued seafood heralds Fínikas beach and its shaded fish taverna. myrto-hotel.com

You could hike further, to Fanos, with its up-for-it beach-bar, or to the sylph-like curves of Italida, encompassing a few clothing optional bays. But don’t leave without clambering over the headland to Pori. Here, you’ll discover so many secluded bays that, even in high season, you’re sure to find a private spot to relax à deux.

Samothraki, Northeastern Aegean For… ancient magicSamothraki has everything we crave from a Greek island: beaches, tavernas, a major archaeological site, traditional villages and gorgeous walks. And yet it remains blissfully uncrowded. There’s no real reason for this, except that it’s way off in the far Northeast Aegean – so close to Turkey’s Troy that Poseidon could watch the Trojan War from the island’s Mount Fengari.

Samothraki wasn’t always so obscure. In ancient times, it attracted pilgrims (including the parents of Alexander the Great) from across the Mediterranean world, to be initiated into long-lost underworld mysteries. Although the Louvre bagged the Sanctuary’s majestic Winged Victory, the ruins of its shrines and temples arrayed on a wooded hillside are still wonderfully evocative, reverberating with tinkling goat-bells. odysseus.culture.gr

The island still retains something of its ancient magic, especially at Therma Loutra, an idyllic Arcadia of springs and ancient chestnuts, myrtle, and enormous plane trees twisting like ancient dancers. Paths lead up the Gria Vathra and Fonias ravines to waterfalls and refreshing pools straight out of a shampoo ad (wear good shoes). Stay by a quiet beach amid the hydrangeas at Therma Loutra at the family-run Archondissa. archondissa.gr

All the island’s restaurants are good and reasonably priced, but hire a car, if only for a day, to follow the locals up the rough road to the blissfully authentic Taverna Karydies in Ano Meria for its exquisitely tender wild kid. Join a boat tour to visit the savage southeast coast, worth it for a 180m waterfall tumbling into the sea; caves of monk seals; and the island’s most beautiful beach pebbly Vatos, at the end of a wooded ravine.

Arki, Dodecanese For... that Robinson Crusoe feeling The holy island of Patmos is mother ship to a scattering of islets that once belonged to the Monastery of St John the Evangelist. The biggest of these, Lipsi, has a superb sandy beach that draws most of the day-trippers, while rocky and arid little Arki is ideal for anyone craving the next best thing to being cast away on a desert island. It has four beaches, a few trees, and enough wild

thyme and other plants to scent the air and support a few goats and rabbits.

Most residents live near the Lilliputian port, and a few offer rooms. Stay and dine at the Nikolas Tavern, where Maria serves baby kid, seafood and Arki’s cheese, ksinomizitra. arki-island.eu

There’s no pressure to see any sights here – there’s only a stalactite cave to explore in the north. Arki’s best beach, Tiganakia, with a mix of sand and pebbles, is a 45-minute walk from the port; the water here is so clear that boats seem suspended in mid-air, casting shadows over the sea. To the east there are three other smaller offerings, Limnaria, Kapaliasmenos and Melissa, and to really play Robinson Crusoe, try swimming over to the deserted nearby islets. But most of all, Arki is an island for sheer indulgence: for daydreaming over a carafe of ouzo, for catching up on your reading, for gazing up at the night sky.

Othoni, Diapontia For… Corfu-like lush beauty (without the crowds) Corfu is rugged, outrageously fertile and encircled by sandy beaches. For the same appeal in a tiny, crowd-free package, carry on 15km northwest to Othoni, Greece’s westernmost point. Only a few hundred people call it home.

With its secretive coves and transparent blue-green waters, Othoni is beloved of sailors – most famously Odysseus, who spent seven years here in the arms of the nymph Calypso. If you haven’t brought your yacht (Othoni sees quite a few, sailing between Greece and Italy), then stay in Ammos, the main settlement, facing a long white beach. The new Calypso Hotel comprises simple apartments and studios or try Italian-run Locanda dei Sogni, with seaside rooms and a taverna dishing up the day’s catch, grilled vegetables and their own blend of coffees. othonoi.gr

Hop on a boat-taxi from Ammos, and you’ll soon be touring Othoni’s eroded cliffs, passing Calypso’s love nest, a sea grotto carved 100m into the rock. Next to it are the sands of Aspri Ammos, the island’s most spectacular beach, a cliff-embraced crescent, prettily studded with boulders and lapped by a turquoise sea. The seemingly clement waters hide two sunken steamships; if you’re feeling adventurous, explore their watery depths on a dive. divecorfu.com

Besides lazing on beaches and messing about on boats, days on Othoni mean wandering along old mule paths through wild sage and myrtle, orchards, cypresses and olive groves. Don’t miss the British-built lighthouse of 1872; the little Venetian fort on a precipice; or the Iliovasilema Belvedere for ravishing sunsets. But there’s something rewarding about hiking up the 393m slopes of Merovigli, Othoni’s highest point, for the stunning views of the Italian coast, Albania, the other Diapontia islands, and Corfu.

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DestinationsGreek Islands

Elafonissos, South Peloponnese For… family-friendly beachesSome of Greece’s most beautiful sands skirt the low hills of Elafonissos, only 570m off the Peloponnese coast. In fact, it used to be linked to the mainland: under the channel between Elafonissos and the tiny port of Pounta lies Pavlopetri. Dating from 3,000BC, it’s the oldest sunken city in the whole world.

Getting to Elafonissos requires dedication, but if your idea of an idyllic family holiday means endless lazing in pillow-soft sands by shallow pale turquoise waters, this island is hard to beat. Little kids love it: the beach seems to extend forever along the seabed, especially at picture-perfect Simos, where white dunes separate Sarakiniko (the larger bay) and Fragos. Some say Simos is the most beautiful beach in Greece: it’s hard to argue: the colours of the sea are hallucinatory green and pale blue, flecked with gold, stunted cedars and, in August, rare sea lilies, decorate the sand. You can stay close by in a family bungalow sleeping four at Simos Camping, although avoid July and August, which get busy. simoscamping.gr

There’s another, much less crowded contender on the west coast: long shelving, silky white Panagias Nisia, with water as blue as Sinatra’s eyes; stay a minute’s walk away and watch flaming magenta sunsets at Katonisi Hotel. katonisielafonisos.gr

Or try sandy Lefki beach, sheltered on the east coast, or seek out the secret path to Elafonissos’s only pebble beach, Aglyfti, hidden on the southwest coast.

The other essential thing to do on Elafonissos is eat fish: most of the inhabitants are fishermen. There’s nothing finer than dining on lobster spaghetti while wiggling your toes in the sand at Boukas, on the edge of the port.

Antiparos, Cyclades For… laid-back, left-field charm Antiparos’s main town, Chora, is pretty much a one-street show. From the harbour-front, an alley leads to a ruined Venetian castle, and the walk from the sea takes 10 minutes, a meander that takes in cafes clinking with the sound of backgammon dice, shops hawking beach gear, and laid-back beats resounding from the bars.

This is a place of natty threads and

but at the family-run Dominici guesthouse most of the six bedrooms have balconies. dominici- ammouliani.gr

Where the island exceeds all expectations is with its gorgeous beaches, notably Agios Georgios and Megali Ammos. Most are walkable from the main town, but for a more evocative method of transport, hop on the ‘beach bus’.

Kastellorizo, Dodecanese For… that end-of-world feeling Six hours east of Rhodes by sea, Kastellorizo – ‘the last stop in Europe’ – blends a quirky world’s-end atmosphere with one of the best natural harbours in the Med. The island’s lone town is a cluster of pastel Neo-Classical townhouses, set in an amphitheatre under a ruined Crusader castle. Friendly sea turtles cadge tidbits from the waterfront tavernas (try the fish soup at the oldest, Mikro Parisi). There are bathing platforms instead of beaches, but like Capri, Kastellorizo has a shimmering Blue Cave to visit. Or nip over to Turkey for a day trip to Kas. meisexpress.com

Trizonia, Gulf of CorinthFor… true tranquility A best-kept secret of yachties and weekending Athenians, Trizonia is the only inhabited island in the Gulf of Corinth, a little beauty cloaked in olives, pines and vines, and surrounded by mountains. The water, clear as distilled spirit, laps its quiet beaches and large natural harbour. And quiet is the key word here: cars and motorbikes are banned. Stay with sea views at the Trizonia Beach Hotel, and dine right on the water at the Porto Trizonia taverna. trizoniabeach hotel.gr

Schinoussa, Cyclades For... a low-key getaway in a sea of busy islands There are so many beautiful Cycladic islands that Schinoussa has managed to remain hidden in plain sight. There are hardly any motor vehicles, but delightfully there are 17 beaches to do absolutely nothing on – sandy, shelving Tsigouri, the most ‘developed’, even has a beach bar. Watch the sun set over distant Santorini, then dine at the superb 8 Adelfia, in Chora, run by a large family that supplies all their own vegetables, meats and cheeses.

coiffured heads, an island not yet visited by British hordes, nor flash-the-cash oligarchs (although Tom Hanks is said to have bought a house here). Instead, it’s favoured by Athens’s hipster, alternative elite. Fashion designers, DJs, artists and musicians are the norm.

Spend days lazing on Psaraliki beach – the eerie cave up a nearby hill is a corker, lined with stalactites and stalagmites. Meanwhile, 15 minutes’ drive across the island, tiny Agios Georgios has a smattering of sugar-cube houses overlooking a pristine beach, its waters sheltered by the uninhabited island of Despotiko. A small jetty, lined with freshly caught octopuses, hosts the umbrella-shaded tables of the rustic Captain Pipinos tavern. captainpipinos.com

Back in Chora, the evening crowd is drawn to the main square, where the castle ruins are packed with lively cafes.

Gobble Greek classics without fuss at the Klimataria Taverna. Afterwards, head to Vicky’s ice-cream parlour on the main drag, to savour up to 40 homemade flavours.

Kythnos, Cyclades For... a simple, sleepy sunspot Kythnos is the island that mass tourism forgot. Although less than two hours’ from Athens, it doesn’t even take credit cards. Yet, it has at least 65 uncrowded beaches, including Kolona, a sandy strip that connects the coast with the islet of Agios Loukas. Stay at Porto Klaras Hotel. portoklaras.gr

It’s in the bay of Loutra, where hot mineral springs bubble from the sea, and comes with airy rooms and striking wall reliefs. Eat at sleepy tavernas in the port of Merichas, and trek to the old and quaint medieval capital Kastro tis Orias.

Ammouliani, Halkidiki For... going back to basics Just off monastic Mount Athos, Ammouliani was church land until the mid ‘20s. The remote location and the lack of island hopping opportunities meant tourism never really caught on. As such, Ammouliani remains peaceful: rustic rather than refined and devoid of commercialism. The streets of the main town feature coffee shops and tavernas, the best of which is Taverna Janis.

Accommodation on the island is spartan,

Opening pages: A small boat bobs in Kastellorizo Harbour.Previous pages, clockwise from top left: Rocks on Elafonisi Islet, Crete; Houses in Castellorizo, Megisi; Antiparos Island; Island of Samothraki. These pages: The harbour of Kastellorizo.

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February 2016World Traveller

62

DestinationsGreek Islands

Elafonissos, South Peloponnese For… family-friendly beachesSome of Greece’s most beautiful sands skirt the low hills of Elafonissos, only 570m off the Peloponnese coast. In fact, it used to be linked to the mainland: under the channel between Elafonissos and the tiny port of Pounta lies Pavlopetri. Dating from 3,000BC, it’s the oldest sunken city in the whole world.

Getting to Elafonissos requires dedication, but if your idea of an idyllic family holiday means endless lazing in pillow-soft sands by shallow pale turquoise waters, this island is hard to beat. Little kids love it: the beach seems to extend forever along the seabed, especially at picture-perfect Simos, where white dunes separate Sarakiniko (the larger bay) and Fragos. Some say Simos is the most beautiful beach in Greece: it’s hard to argue: the colours of the sea are hallucinatory green and pale blue, flecked with gold, stunted cedars and, in August, rare sea lilies, decorate the sand. You can stay close by in a family bungalow sleeping four at Simos Camping, although avoid July and August, which get busy. simoscamping.gr

There’s another, much less crowded contender on the west coast: long shelving, silky white Panagias Nisia, with water as blue as Sinatra’s eyes; stay a minute’s walk away and watch flaming magenta sunsets at Katonisi Hotel. katonisielafonisos.gr

Or try sandy Lefki beach, sheltered on the east coast, or seek out the secret path to Elafonissos’s only pebble beach, Aglyfti, hidden on the southwest coast.

The other essential thing to do on Elafonissos is eat fish: most of the inhabitants are fishermen. There’s nothing finer than dining on lobster spaghetti while wiggling your toes in the sand at Boukas, on the edge of the port.

Antiparos, Cyclades For… laid-back, left-field charm Antiparos’s main town, Chora, is pretty much a one-street show. From the harbour-front, an alley leads to a ruined Venetian castle, and the walk from the sea takes 10 minutes, a meander that takes in cafes clinking with the sound of backgammon dice, shops hawking beach gear, and laid-back beats resounding from the bars.

This is a place of natty threads and

but at the family-run Dominici guesthouse most of the six bedrooms have balconies. dominici- ammouliani.gr

Where the island exceeds all expectations is with its gorgeous beaches, notably Agios Georgios and Megali Ammos. Most are walkable from the main town, but for a more evocative method of transport, hop on the ‘beach bus’.

Kastellorizo, Dodecanese For… that end-of-world feeling Six hours east of Rhodes by sea, Kastellorizo – ‘the last stop in Europe’ – blends a quirky world’s-end atmosphere with one of the best natural harbours in the Med. The island’s lone town is a cluster of pastel Neo-Classical townhouses, set in an amphitheatre under a ruined Crusader castle. Friendly sea turtles cadge tidbits from the waterfront tavernas (try the fish soup at the oldest, Mikro Parisi). There are bathing platforms instead of beaches, but like Capri, Kastellorizo has a shimmering Blue Cave to visit. Or nip over to Turkey for a day trip to Kas. meisexpress.com

Trizonia, Gulf of CorinthFor… true tranquility A best-kept secret of yachties and weekending Athenians, Trizonia is the only inhabited island in the Gulf of Corinth, a little beauty cloaked in olives, pines and vines, and surrounded by mountains. The water, clear as distilled spirit, laps its quiet beaches and large natural harbour. And quiet is the key word here: cars and motorbikes are banned. Stay with sea views at the Trizonia Beach Hotel, and dine right on the water at the Porto Trizonia taverna. trizoniabeach hotel.gr

Schinoussa, Cyclades For... a low-key getaway in a sea of busy islands There are so many beautiful Cycladic islands that Schinoussa has managed to remain hidden in plain sight. There are hardly any motor vehicles, but delightfully there are 17 beaches to do absolutely nothing on – sandy, shelving Tsigouri, the most ‘developed’, even has a beach bar. Watch the sun set over distant Santorini, then dine at the superb 8 Adelfia, in Chora, run by a large family that supplies all their own vegetables, meats and cheeses.

coiffured heads, an island not yet visited by British hordes, nor flash-the-cash oligarchs (although Tom Hanks is said to have bought a house here). Instead, it’s favoured by Athens’s hipster, alternative elite. Fashion designers, DJs, artists and musicians are the norm.

Spend days lazing on Psaraliki beach – the eerie cave up a nearby hill is a corker, lined with stalactites and stalagmites. Meanwhile, 15 minutes’ drive across the island, tiny Agios Georgios has a smattering of sugar-cube houses overlooking a pristine beach, its waters sheltered by the uninhabited island of Despotiko. A small jetty, lined with freshly caught octopuses, hosts the umbrella-shaded tables of the rustic Captain Pipinos tavern. captainpipinos.com

Back in Chora, the evening crowd is drawn to the main square, where the castle ruins are packed with lively cafes.

Gobble Greek classics without fuss at the Klimataria Taverna. Afterwards, head to Vicky’s ice-cream parlour on the main drag, to savour up to 40 homemade flavours.

Kythnos, Cyclades For... a simple, sleepy sunspot Kythnos is the island that mass tourism forgot. Although less than two hours’ from Athens, it doesn’t even take credit cards. Yet, it has at least 65 uncrowded beaches, including Kolona, a sandy strip that connects the coast with the islet of Agios Loukas. Stay at Porto Klaras Hotel. portoklaras.gr

It’s in the bay of Loutra, where hot mineral springs bubble from the sea, and comes with airy rooms and striking wall reliefs. Eat at sleepy tavernas in the port of Merichas, and trek to the old and quaint medieval capital Kastro tis Orias.

Ammouliani, Halkidiki For... going back to basics Just off monastic Mount Athos, Ammouliani was church land until the mid ‘20s. The remote location and the lack of island hopping opportunities meant tourism never really caught on. As such, Ammouliani remains peaceful: rustic rather than refined and devoid of commercialism. The streets of the main town feature coffee shops and tavernas, the best of which is Taverna Janis.

Accommodation on the island is spartan,

Opening pages: A small boat bobs in Kastellorizo Harbour.Previous pages, clockwise from top left: Rocks on Elafonisi Islet, Crete; Houses in Castellorizo, Megisi; Antiparos Island; Island of Samothraki. These pages: The harbour of Kastellorizo.

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February 2016World Traveller

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Slick, authentic and diverse – visit Singapore with dnata Travel.

Book at dnatatravel.com call +971 4 389 8999 or visit your nearest dnata Travel outlet

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February 2016World Traveller

68 Great Escapes: Romantic Resorts 70 48 Hours In Istanbul

71 Staycations74 Reader Offers

WeekendsTwo days is still plenty of time to travel

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Slick, authentic and diverse – visit Singapore with dnata Travel.

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Singaporeyours to experience

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February 2016World Traveller

68 Great Escapes: Romantic Resorts 70 48 Hours In Istanbul

71 Staycations74 Reader Offers

WeekendsTwo days is still plenty of time to travel

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WeekendsSharm el-Sheikh For All...

One Weekend For All In...Sharm el-SheikhWhere to go and where to stay when in the city – here’s your inspiration from the experts at World Traveller

The romantic oneRas Mohammed is the most famous national park in Egypt, in addition to being one of the most popular diving sites in the Red Sea. Fierce currents take divers on a thrilling trip along sheer coral walls and dense schools of kaleidoscopic fish, before they explore the remains of the Jolanda, a Cypriot freighter that sank in 1980. Rated one of the top five dives worldwide, there are regular two-for-one offers off the southern tip, transforming an adrenaline-fuelled plunge into a romantic date.

If you’re an early riser, see the sunrise over the Sinai Mountains on an unforgettable trek to St. Catherine’s Monastery. Alternatively, night owls can escape the city lights and head to the tranquil desert for a picturesque night of stargazing and Bedouin feasting.

The Reef Oasis Blue Bay Resort offers spectacular views over delicately landscaped gardens, pools and the sparkling ocean. This beautiful and welcoming five-star property offers couples a variety of services and facilities. Carefully designed with a blend of minimalism and colonial elegance, 696 luxurious rooms and suites await guests.

The family-friendly oneWhere’s best to go with the kids in tow? For families who want to bring the little ones to Egypt for a beach holiday, Sharm el-Sheikh covers all the bases. International restaurants and private hotel beaches make this destination an unashamed pleasure-seeking enclave on the edge of Sinai.

Want to do something different? Take the family quad biking across the Egyptian desert for the ultimate sense of adventure. This is an experience you’ll never forget – a superb way to escape the crowds and explore plentiful crags and dunes. Excursions take you riding across the sands at sunrise or sunset, when the wondrous colours of the desert are revealed in all their glory.

Guests at the five-star Radisson Blu enjoy a seaside location complete with a private beach and a great children’s club. All 331 rooms and suites here boast beautiful Arabic-influenced décor with tropical touches, and visitors can delight in multiple conveniences, including on-site dining at five different restaurants. Guests are also conveniently close to Tiran Island and the breathtaking beautiful Nabq Protected Area.

February 2016World Traveller

The adventurous oneThe southern coast of the Gulf of Aqaba features some of the world’s most prodigious underwater scenery. Crystal-clear waters and radiant reefs are home to an incredible variety of exotic fish, and have made Sharm el-Sheikh a snorkelling and scuba diving paradise.

Go on the hunt for a shopping a bargain in the Bedouin village of Dahab. With some of the lowest prices in Egypt, you’re sure to find a selection of quaint souvenirs, including papyrus prints, brass lamps and exquisite jewellery.

No trip is complete without an obligatory camel ride. Enjoy superb views of the scorched desert and hauntingly beautiful mountains. Afterwards, savour the perfect combination of exotic style and indulgence at the Hyatt Regency. This hotel is based on the edge of an aqua oasis in Gardens Bay; another one of Sharm el-Sheikh’s captivating dive sites.

Lastly, if you’re one for adventures that last long into the night, here you’ll find the ever popular Little Buddha Bar, the equalling buzzzing Bus Stop – don’t head for the actual bus stop – and the famous Pacha nightclub.

The restful oneIncorporating the two adjacent coves of Na’ama Bay and Sharm al-Maya, Sharm el-Sheikh is a purpose-built resort; a tourist boom town, dedicated to sun-and-sea holidays that draw in legions of rest-seekers.

Sunbathing, swimming, snorkelling – what better way to spend a day in the Egyptian desert? Escape Sharm el-Sheikh for a day of relaxation around the protected white sandy Tiran Island. Stunning lagoons and colourful coral reefs are waiting to be explored.

For that perfect read while soaking up the sun, Al-Ahram Bookshop is the best-stocked store with a good selection of books and magazines.

Situated directly on the sands of Sharks Bay and set in beautiful landscaped grounds, AA Grand Oasis Resort is an all-inclusive hotel, helping you escape your hectic everyday routine. Suspend time and indulge in a world of plentitude with the hotel’s vast variety of indulging facilities. Built in 2002, the hotel is a pleasing combination of oriental architecture and modernity. Guests can take advantage of a beauty salon, a hairdresser and a barbershop, in addition to a heated outdoor pool and spa.

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WeekendsSharm el-Sheikh For All...

One Weekend For All In...Sharm el-SheikhWhere to go and where to stay when in the city – here’s your inspiration from the experts at World Traveller

The romantic oneRas Mohammed is the most famous national park in Egypt, in addition to being one of the most popular diving sites in the Red Sea. Fierce currents take divers on a thrilling trip along sheer coral walls and dense schools of kaleidoscopic fish, before they explore the remains of the Jolanda, a Cypriot freighter that sank in 1980. Rated one of the top five dives worldwide, there are regular two-for-one offers off the southern tip, transforming an adrenaline-fuelled plunge into a romantic date.

If you’re an early riser, see the sunrise over the Sinai Mountains on an unforgettable trek to St. Catherine’s Monastery. Alternatively, night owls can escape the city lights and head to the tranquil desert for a picturesque night of stargazing and Bedouin feasting.

The Reef Oasis Blue Bay Resort offers spectacular views over delicately landscaped gardens, pools and the sparkling ocean. This beautiful and welcoming five-star property offers couples a variety of services and facilities. Carefully designed with a blend of minimalism and colonial elegance, 696 luxurious rooms and suites await guests.

The family-friendly oneWhere’s best to go with the kids in tow? For families who want to bring the little ones to Egypt for a beach holiday, Sharm el-Sheikh covers all the bases. International restaurants and private hotel beaches make this destination an unashamed pleasure-seeking enclave on the edge of Sinai.

Want to do something different? Take the family quad biking across the Egyptian desert for the ultimate sense of adventure. This is an experience you’ll never forget – a superb way to escape the crowds and explore plentiful crags and dunes. Excursions take you riding across the sands at sunrise or sunset, when the wondrous colours of the desert are revealed in all their glory.

Guests at the five-star Radisson Blu enjoy a seaside location complete with a private beach and a great children’s club. All 331 rooms and suites here boast beautiful Arabic-influenced décor with tropical touches, and visitors can delight in multiple conveniences, including on-site dining at five different restaurants. Guests are also conveniently close to Tiran Island and the breathtaking beautiful Nabq Protected Area.

February 2016World Traveller

The adventurous oneThe southern coast of the Gulf of Aqaba features some of the world’s most prodigious underwater scenery. Crystal-clear waters and radiant reefs are home to an incredible variety of exotic fish, and have made Sharm el-Sheikh a snorkelling and scuba diving paradise.

Go on the hunt for a shopping a bargain in the Bedouin village of Dahab. With some of the lowest prices in Egypt, you’re sure to find a selection of quaint souvenirs, including papyrus prints, brass lamps and exquisite jewellery.

No trip is complete without an obligatory camel ride. Enjoy superb views of the scorched desert and hauntingly beautiful mountains. Afterwards, savour the perfect combination of exotic style and indulgence at the Hyatt Regency. This hotel is based on the edge of an aqua oasis in Gardens Bay; another one of Sharm el-Sheikh’s captivating dive sites.

Lastly, if you’re one for adventures that last long into the night, here you’ll find the ever popular Little Buddha Bar, the equalling buzzzing Bus Stop – don’t head for the actual bus stop – and the famous Pacha nightclub.

The restful oneIncorporating the two adjacent coves of Na’ama Bay and Sharm al-Maya, Sharm el-Sheikh is a purpose-built resort; a tourist boom town, dedicated to sun-and-sea holidays that draw in legions of rest-seekers.

Sunbathing, swimming, snorkelling – what better way to spend a day in the Egyptian desert? Escape Sharm el-Sheikh for a day of relaxation around the protected white sandy Tiran Island. Stunning lagoons and colourful coral reefs are waiting to be explored.

For that perfect read while soaking up the sun, Al-Ahram Bookshop is the best-stocked store with a good selection of books and magazines.

Situated directly on the sands of Sharks Bay and set in beautiful landscaped grounds, AA Grand Oasis Resort is an all-inclusive hotel, helping you escape your hectic everyday routine. Suspend time and indulge in a world of plentitude with the hotel’s vast variety of indulging facilities. Built in 2002, the hotel is a pleasing combination of oriental architecture and modernity. Guests can take advantage of a beauty salon, a hairdresser and a barbershop, in addition to a heated outdoor pool and spa.

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WeekendsGreat Escapes

GREAT ESCAPES

romantic resortsThese retreats boast a mix of ambiance and amenities that offer the ultimate in romance for your next weekend getaway

1.

February 2016World Traveller

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2.Baros, MaldivesAway from civilisation: that’s where you want to escape with your loved one. On-island you’ll find timber and sandstone luxury beachside or water villas, surrounded by lush tropical foliage. Step onto your private veranda or pad down the wooden steps of the sun deck to reach the beautiful lagoon. And for an extra special meal, dine on The Piano Deck. baros.com

3.BuBu Long Beach, Perhentian IslandsThese remote paradise islands are simply picture-perfect. The Perhentians are one of the designated Marine Parks of Malaysia, and are mostly covered in lush, virgin jungle. Powdery white beaches border sapphire-blue, crystal-clear waters that are renowned for their excellent snorkeling and world-class dive sites. The reefs are also home to a wide variety of coral, sea turtles and blacktip sharks. buburesort.com

4.The Serai Chikmagalur, IndiaLush green coffee plantations fill miles of open land, while sprawling historical ruins burst with hidden secrets. This vibrant accommodation in relatively unexplored western India is perfect for a romantic trip for two. The Serai is a place for relaxation and rejuvenation. theserai.in

1.Eden Bleu, SeychellesDrifting sleepily off the East African coast, this exclusive hotel offers guests an oasis of calm and tranquility. Enjoy a gourmet dinner for two at the Marlin Bleu restaurant or an indulgent relaxing couples spa treatment. Overlooking the marina and with majestic mountains providing a spectacular backdrop, Eden Bleu is ideal for Valentine’s Day with your loved one. edenbleu.com

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WeekendsGreat Escapes

GREAT ESCAPES

romantic resortsThese retreats boast a mix of ambiance and amenities that offer the ultimate in romance for your next weekend getaway

1.

February 2016World Traveller

69

2.Baros, MaldivesAway from civilisation: that’s where you want to escape with your loved one. On-island you’ll find timber and sandstone luxury beachside or water villas, surrounded by lush tropical foliage. Step onto your private veranda or pad down the wooden steps of the sun deck to reach the beautiful lagoon. And for an extra special meal, dine on The Piano Deck. baros.com

3.BuBu Long Beach, Perhentian IslandsThese remote paradise islands are simply picture-perfect. The Perhentians are one of the designated Marine Parks of Malaysia, and are mostly covered in lush, virgin jungle. Powdery white beaches border sapphire-blue, crystal-clear waters that are renowned for their excellent snorkeling and world-class dive sites. The reefs are also home to a wide variety of coral, sea turtles and blacktip sharks. buburesort.com

4.The Serai Chikmagalur, IndiaLush green coffee plantations fill miles of open land, while sprawling historical ruins burst with hidden secrets. This vibrant accommodation in relatively unexplored western India is perfect for a romantic trip for two. The Serai is a place for relaxation and rejuvenation. theserai.in

1.Eden Bleu, SeychellesDrifting sleepily off the East African coast, this exclusive hotel offers guests an oasis of calm and tranquility. Enjoy a gourmet dinner for two at the Marlin Bleu restaurant or an indulgent relaxing couples spa treatment. Overlooking the marina and with majestic mountains providing a spectacular backdrop, Eden Bleu is ideal for Valentine’s Day with your loved one. edenbleu.com

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Weekends48 Hour Foodie

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48-Hour FoodieTHE BEST OF ISTANBUL

Istanbul is a melting pot of cultures and Turkish cuisine reflects this bountiful diversity. But with so

many dishes to choose from, where do you start?

DAY ONEBreakfastTurkish breakfast is both a meal and event – an experience not to be missed on any trip to Istanbul. With this is mind, visit Emirgan Sütiş. This establishment’s broad patio is perfect for a sun-soaked brunch, partnered with awe-inspiring Bosphorus views. Don your sunglasses and choose from a variety of traditional dishes, such as su böreği (a noodle- dish made from sheets of pastry and white cheese) and menemen (scrambled eggs with cheese, tomatoes and peppers). sutis.com.tr

LunchCommonly known as the Turkish take on ravioli, mantı’s a hot dish served with cold yogurt and garlic. A bubbling pot of thick dumplings, often cooked in a classic Anatolian style. Gülbi’s Café in Feneryolu serves up the rtustic cooking of Crimean Tatars, including a memorable handmade mantı. The pride of Gülbi’s kitchen, their signature version is delicate, piping-hot and soft, smothered in a soothingly chilled yogurt with spices.

DinnerProviding guests an exceptional experience of world-class gastronomy, from contemporary Turkish to classic Mediterranean cuisine, Rocca Restaurant captures palates with a tantalising a la carte menu. Be sure to try the Çorum Kargı Tartlet with wild mushrooms and a demi-glace, before treating yourself to the baked pumpkin pie with walnuts and cream. Whatever the occasion and whatever your mood, delight in dishes from around the world. raffles.com

DAY TWOBreakfastHidden in the heart of the city’s trendiest neighbourhood, Café Firuz in Cihangir Square features floor-to-ceiling windows, making it an ideal location for people-watching. Whether you want a typical Turkish breakfast or enticing western brunch, this café has something for everyone. Many of Istanbul’s old coffeehouses have been modernised into contemporary cafés, but Café Firuz continues to entice visitors with its gentlemanly ways. Keep an eye out for contemporary twists on local classics. cafefiruz.com

LunchStreet food is very much part of the Istanbul way of life. Eat like a true Istanbulite with a freshly baked, molasses-dipped and sesame-crusted bread plait. Despite it’s crisp exterior, Turkish simits are voluptuously soft and can be found on any sizzling street food stall. There are small simit bakeries hidden all over town, but we recommend Çıtır in the Karaköy neighborhood for a knockout lunch if you’re in a hurry to fill your stomach.

DinnerEstablished in 1888, Hacı Abdullah is a quaint restaurant in Hüseyinağa and has followed Turkish tradition by being passed from master to apprentice ever since. Such deep-rooted establishments are, sadly, a rarity, and Hacı Abdullah prides itself on offering all the characteristics of an authentic Ottoman-Turkish eatery. With a vast selection of traditional dishes to choose from, you’ll be spoiled for choice. haciabdullah.com

MUST-HAVESThe DessertGenuine Develi Baklava is made with butter, honey and sugar, unlike cheaper products, which experiment with glucose. Try the classic filo pastry with your choice of nut filling, or an indulgent piping hot bülbül yuvası pastry, crammed with clotted cream and pistachio.

The BrewDrinking Turkish coffee is a centuries-old pastime, often enjoyed with friends and family, and followed with a spot of fortune telling. Şark Coffee House in Beyazıt is a popular hotspot for visitors, as well as locals, and is famous for its delicious coffee that’s cooked in sand.

February 2016World Traveller

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StaycationsDesirable hospitality havens on the GCC doorstep, for a relaxing (romantic) weekend escape

LocationAbu DhabiOn the Corniche and at the heart of culture, near the Guggenheim and Louvre museums

LocationDubaiA very desired address within the legendary Burj Khalifa; a hotel that is an icon by itself

LocationQatarA private helicopter or short luxury yacht trip across calm waters to this natural paradise

LocationOmanHajar mountains, the Gulf of Oman, greenery and beaches... nature awaits in every vista

The St. RegisA Sensual Sanctuarystregisabudhabi.com

Armani HotelThe Height of Styledubai.armanihotels.com

Banana Island ResortMellow Yellowdoha.anantara.com

In a NutshellEnter through an exclusive VIP entrance at Nation Tower into pure luxury, replete with relaxation and romance

In a NutshellImmerse in a sophisticated world designed by Giorgio himself, with exceptional style and elegance in each detail

In a NutshellA secluded haven of relaxation, Arabian indulgence and adventure; local customs and culture are respected

In a NutshellArabian meets Asian styling at a resort with panoramic views and fantastic amenities. Perfect for the couple craving privacy

On-site AllureButler service for every whim or requirement; ‘The 33rd Floor’ and its stunning view; Spa overlooking the Gulf; fitness facilities; Beach Club Pool; array of hospitality room options

On-site AllureSignature service and brand lifestyle concept; Armani/SPA; tailored culinary and romance stays; three key fashion boutiques; occupies 11 floors of the 829m tall Dubai landmark

On-site AllurePrivate marina; indoor botanical garden; diving centre; private beach; leisure facilities with bowling, VIP cinema, 9-hole golf; surf pool; and, of course, the acclaimed Anantara Spa

On-site AllureThe Zayna Spa with indulgent couples’ suite; private beach access; considerately-designed handicap rooms; 54-berth private marina; within reach of Daymaniyat Islands dive sites

In-SuiteA variety of suites, with picks being the impressive ‘Al Hosen’ and a spacious, 1120m2 ‘Abu Dhabi’ abode, which sleeps 8 and is packed with elite features

In-SuiteAs expected, these residences ooze style. Carefully-chosen finishings, fittings and fabrics that embody the Armani design philosophy, all in tasteful hues

In-SuiteSet the mood for romance with captivating sea views in a two or three bedroom villa, each with personal pool, cosy sofas and floor-to-ceiling windows

In-SuiteFrom the seclusion of an apartment, to the space of a 2-bed duplex: relax in deluxe, contemporary comfort and avail a special ‘Stay & Spa’ package

CuisineBoasts ‘sophisticated tastes, flavours and sensations’ in its 9 restaurants. For vistas? Lunch at the Azura Panoramic Lounge

CuisineElegant dining enclaves serve delicious fare, such as Indian at Amal, Italian at Ristorante and Japanese within Hashi

Cuisine‘Dining by Design’ offers a personal chef, with a bespoke menu served at a decorated table in an idyllic setting

CuisineOpt for The Deck to snack and sip on long drinks on the private terrace, watching the yachts serenely slip into the marina

Millennium ResortValentine Viewsmillenniumhotels.com

Weekends48 Hour Foodie

70

48-Hour FoodieTHE BEST OF ISTANBUL

Istanbul is a melting pot of cultures and Turkish cuisine reflects this bountiful diversity. But with so

many dishes to choose from, where do you start?

DAY ONEBreakfastTurkish breakfast is both a meal and event – an experience not to be missed on any trip to Istanbul. With this is mind, visit Emirgan Sütiş. This establishment’s broad patio is perfect for a sun-soaked brunch, partnered with awe-inspiring Bosphorus views. Don your sunglasses and choose from a variety of traditional dishes, such as su böreği (a noodle- dish made from sheets of pastry and white cheese) and menemen (scrambled eggs with cheese, tomatoes and peppers). sutis.com.tr

LunchCommonly known as the Turkish take on ravioli, mantı’s a hot dish served with cold yogurt and garlic. A bubbling pot of thick dumplings, often cooked in a classic Anatolian style. Gülbi’s Café in Feneryolu serves up the rtustic cooking of Crimean Tatars, including a memorable handmade mantı. The pride of Gülbi’s kitchen, their signature version is delicate, piping-hot and soft, smothered in a soothingly chilled yogurt with spices.

DinnerProviding guests an exceptional experience of world-class gastronomy, from contemporary Turkish to classic Mediterranean cuisine, Rocca Restaurant captures palates with a tantalising a la carte menu. Be sure to try the Çorum Kargı Tartlet with wild mushrooms and a demi-glace, before treating yourself to the baked pumpkin pie with walnuts and cream. Whatever the occasion and whatever your mood, delight in dishes from around the world. raffles.com

DAY TWOBreakfastHidden in the heart of the city’s trendiest neighbourhood, Café Firuz in Cihangir Square features floor-to-ceiling windows, making it an ideal location for people-watching. Whether you want a typical Turkish breakfast or enticing western brunch, this café has something for everyone. Many of Istanbul’s old coffeehouses have been modernised into contemporary cafés, but Café Firuz continues to entice visitors with its gentlemanly ways. Keep an eye out for contemporary twists on local classics. cafefiruz.com

LunchStreet food is very much part of the Istanbul way of life. Eat like a true Istanbulite with a freshly baked, molasses-dipped and sesame-crusted bread plait. Despite it’s crisp exterior, Turkish simits are voluptuously soft and can be found on any sizzling street food stall. There are small simit bakeries hidden all over town, but we recommend Çıtır in the Karaköy neighborhood for a knockout lunch if you’re in a hurry to fill your stomach.

DinnerEstablished in 1888, Hacı Abdullah is a quaint restaurant in Hüseyinağa and has followed Turkish tradition by being passed from master to apprentice ever since. Such deep-rooted establishments are, sadly, a rarity, and Hacı Abdullah prides itself on offering all the characteristics of an authentic Ottoman-Turkish eatery. With a vast selection of traditional dishes to choose from, you’ll be spoiled for choice. haciabdullah.com

MUST-HAVESThe DessertGenuine Develi Baklava is made with butter, honey and sugar, unlike cheaper products, which experiment with glucose. Try the classic filo pastry with your choice of nut filling, or an indulgent piping hot bülbül yuvası pastry, crammed with clotted cream and pistachio.

The BrewDrinking Turkish coffee is a centuries-old pastime, often enjoyed with friends and family, and followed with a spot of fortune telling. Şark Coffee House in Beyazıt is a popular hotspot for visitors, as well as locals, and is famous for its delicious coffee that’s cooked in sand.

February 2016World Traveller

71

StaycationsDesirable hospitality havens on the GCC doorstep, for a relaxing (romantic) weekend escape

LocationAbu DhabiOn the Corniche and at the heart of culture, near the Guggenheim and Louvre museums

LocationDubaiA very desired address within the legendary Burj Khalifa; a hotel that is an icon by itself

LocationQatarA private helicopter or short luxury yacht trip across calm waters to this natural paradise

LocationOmanHajar mountains, the Gulf of Oman, greenery and beaches... nature awaits in every vista

The St. RegisA Sensual Sanctuarystregisabudhabi.com

Armani HotelThe Height of Styledubai.armanihotels.com

Banana Island ResortMellow Yellowdoha.anantara.com

In a NutshellEnter through an exclusive VIP entrance at Nation Tower into pure luxury, replete with relaxation and romance

In a NutshellImmerse in a sophisticated world designed by Giorgio himself, with exceptional style and elegance in each detail

In a NutshellA secluded haven of relaxation, Arabian indulgence and adventure; local customs and culture are respected

In a NutshellArabian meets Asian styling at a resort with panoramic views and fantastic amenities. Perfect for the couple craving privacy

On-site AllureButler service for every whim or requirement; ‘The 33rd Floor’ and its stunning view; Spa overlooking the Gulf; fitness facilities; Beach Club Pool; array of hospitality room options

On-site AllureSignature service and brand lifestyle concept; Armani/SPA; tailored culinary and romance stays; three key fashion boutiques; occupies 11 floors of the 829m tall Dubai landmark

On-site AllurePrivate marina; indoor botanical garden; diving centre; private beach; leisure facilities with bowling, VIP cinema, 9-hole golf; surf pool; and, of course, the acclaimed Anantara Spa

On-site AllureThe Zayna Spa with indulgent couples’ suite; private beach access; considerately-designed handicap rooms; 54-berth private marina; within reach of Daymaniyat Islands dive sites

In-SuiteA variety of suites, with picks being the impressive ‘Al Hosen’ and a spacious, 1120m2 ‘Abu Dhabi’ abode, which sleeps 8 and is packed with elite features

In-SuiteAs expected, these residences ooze style. Carefully-chosen finishings, fittings and fabrics that embody the Armani design philosophy, all in tasteful hues

In-SuiteSet the mood for romance with captivating sea views in a two or three bedroom villa, each with personal pool, cosy sofas and floor-to-ceiling windows

In-SuiteFrom the seclusion of an apartment, to the space of a 2-bed duplex: relax in deluxe, contemporary comfort and avail a special ‘Stay & Spa’ package

CuisineBoasts ‘sophisticated tastes, flavours and sensations’ in its 9 restaurants. For vistas? Lunch at the Azura Panoramic Lounge

CuisineElegant dining enclaves serve delicious fare, such as Indian at Amal, Italian at Ristorante and Japanese within Hashi

Cuisine‘Dining by Design’ offers a personal chef, with a bespoke menu served at a decorated table in an idyllic setting

CuisineOpt for The Deck to snack and sip on long drinks on the private terrace, watching the yachts serenely slip into the marina

Millennium ResortValentine Viewsmillenniumhotels.com

WeekendsAbu Dhabi

E xchange ‘Gong Xi Fa Cai!’ well-wishes upon Al Maryah Island this Feb 3-7, as Far Eastern tradition bursts into colour

with an immersive cultural experience that rings in Chinese New Year, in style. Luxury lifestyle destination The Galleria provides a picturesque backdrop to a calendar of grand performance, tempting cuisine and engaging activities for adults and children alike, which culminates in an amazing firework display above the glass building. Headlining the auspicious showcase is the world-famous acrobatic troupe Cirque Shanghai, and throughout the property are must-see presentations such as exquisite fan and umbrella dances and, of course, an authentic Chinese Lion costume show. In-between shopping, dining and unwinding, partake in the delicate ritual of tea-making, craft your own version of the iconic paper lantern, and be transported to stunning Chinese landscapes through the artwork of Jun Ma. There’s no better place in the capital to get a taste of ‘CNY’. thegalleria.ae

72

GoldCelebrate the Chinese Year of the Monkey in The Galleria’s festive spectacular

Red&

WeekendsAbu Dhabi

E xchange ‘Gong Xi Fa Cai!’ well-wishes upon Al Maryah Island this Feb 3-7, as Far Eastern tradition bursts into colour

with an immersive cultural experience that rings in Chinese New Year, in style. Luxury lifestyle destination The Galleria provides a picturesque backdrop to a calendar of grand performance, tempting cuisine and engaging activities for adults and children alike, which culminates in an amazing firework display above the glass building. Headlining the auspicious showcase is the world-famous acrobatic troupe Cirque Shanghai, and throughout the property are must-see presentations such as exquisite fan and umbrella dances and, of course, an authentic Chinese Lion costume show. In-between shopping, dining and unwinding, partake in the delicate ritual of tea-making, craft your own version of the iconic paper lantern, and be transported to stunning Chinese landscapes through the artwork of Jun Ma. There’s no better place in the capital to get a taste of ‘CNY’. thegalleria.ae

72

GoldCelebrate the Chinese Year of the Monkey in The Galleria’s festive spectacular

Red&

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74

Weekendsdnata Offers

WORLD TRAVELLER

Weekend Reader Offers

Grand Hyatt Dubai

Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Eastern Mangroves Hotel & Spa The Meydan Hotel

Le Royal Meridien Beach Resort & Spa

Banyan Tree Al Wadi

UAEThe Meydan Hotel, Dubai 1 night from USD98 per personSpecial Offer: 30% discount on room rateIncludes: Stay in a Grand Deluxe Balcony Room with breakfast Validity: Now ‘til Feb 28, 2016

Eastern Mangroves Hotel & Spa by Anantara1 night from USD91 per personSpecial Offer: Receive a 30% discount on room rate and 20% discount on food & beverageIncludes: Stay in Deluxe Balcony Room with breakfast and return airport transfersValidity: Now ‘til Mar 20, 2016

Grand Hyatt Dubai1 night from USD140 per personSpecial Offer: 20% discount on room rateIncludes: Stay in a Grand Room with breakfast Validity: Now ‘til Mar 20, 2016

Le Royal Meridien Beach Resort & Spa 4 nights from USD817 per personSpecial Offer: Stay 3 nights and receive a complimentary night freeIncludes: Stay in a Deluxe Sea View Room with breakfast Validity: Now ‘til Mar 18, 2016

Banyan Tree Al Wadi1 night from USD405 per personSpecial Offer: Receive a 25% discount on room rate, upgrade to Half Board, enjoy Falcon Show and interaction with Indigenous Owls and a 45-minute Archery and Nature WalkIncludes: Stay in an Al Rimal Pool Villa with breakfast and Lunch or Dinner and return airport transfersValidity: Now ‘til Mar 20, 2016

OmanShangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa, Muscat

1 night from USD202 per personSpecial Offer: 20% Discount on room rateIncludes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfastValidity: Now ‘til Feb 21, 2016

Alila Jabal Akhdar4 nights from USD709 per personSpecial Offer: Receive a 20% discount on room rate, upgrade to Horizon View Room and one child under 12 years stays freeIncludes: Stay in a Horizon View Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfersValidity: Now ’til Mar 20, 2016

75

February 2016World Traveller

WIN!A two-night stay at Vida Downtown Dubai

Hands down the coolest boutique bolthole in the region right now, Vida Downtown Dubai is where we want to send one very lucky reader for a weekend to remember.

When not enjoying the comforts of your deluxe room for two, you can cherry pick from the hotel’s handful of mighty-fine restaurants, which include two of Dubai’s very best (Le Serre and Toko Dubai), or relax in a cabana by the pool, an area that’s beautiful at night when it’s lit by flaming torches and populated by the cool crowd. What’s more, we’ll even throw in breakfast.

To have a chance of winning this wonderful prize, you just need to tell us the correct answer to this question:

In which area of Dubai is Vida Downtown Dubai?

A) Dubai MarinaB) JumeirahC) Downtown

Email your answer to easywin@hotmediapublishing.com by February 29, 2016.

74

Weekendsdnata Offers

WORLD TRAVELLER

Weekend Reader Offers

Grand Hyatt Dubai

Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Eastern Mangroves Hotel & Spa The Meydan Hotel

Le Royal Meridien Beach Resort & Spa

Banyan Tree Al Wadi

UAEThe Meydan Hotel, Dubai 1 night from USD98 per personSpecial Offer: 30% discount on room rateIncludes: Stay in a Grand Deluxe Balcony Room with breakfast Validity: Now ‘til Feb 28, 2016

Eastern Mangroves Hotel & Spa by Anantara1 night from USD91 per personSpecial Offer: Receive a 30% discount on room rate and 20% discount on food & beverageIncludes: Stay in Deluxe Balcony Room with breakfast and return airport transfersValidity: Now ‘til Mar 20, 2016

Grand Hyatt Dubai1 night from USD140 per personSpecial Offer: 20% discount on room rateIncludes: Stay in a Grand Room with breakfast Validity: Now ‘til Mar 20, 2016

Le Royal Meridien Beach Resort & Spa 4 nights from USD817 per personSpecial Offer: Stay 3 nights and receive a complimentary night freeIncludes: Stay in a Deluxe Sea View Room with breakfast Validity: Now ‘til Mar 18, 2016

Banyan Tree Al Wadi1 night from USD405 per personSpecial Offer: Receive a 25% discount on room rate, upgrade to Half Board, enjoy Falcon Show and interaction with Indigenous Owls and a 45-minute Archery and Nature WalkIncludes: Stay in an Al Rimal Pool Villa with breakfast and Lunch or Dinner and return airport transfersValidity: Now ‘til Mar 20, 2016

OmanShangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa, Muscat

1 night from USD202 per personSpecial Offer: 20% Discount on room rateIncludes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfastValidity: Now ‘til Feb 21, 2016

Alila Jabal Akhdar4 nights from USD709 per personSpecial Offer: Receive a 20% discount on room rate, upgrade to Horizon View Room and one child under 12 years stays freeIncludes: Stay in a Horizon View Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfersValidity: Now ’til Mar 20, 2016

75

February 2016World Traveller

WIN!A two-night stay at Vida Downtown Dubai

Hands down the coolest boutique bolthole in the region right now, Vida Downtown Dubai is where we want to send one very lucky reader for a weekend to remember.

When not enjoying the comforts of your deluxe room for two, you can cherry pick from the hotel’s handful of mighty-fine restaurants, which include two of Dubai’s very best (Le Serre and Toko Dubai), or relax in a cabana by the pool, an area that’s beautiful at night when it’s lit by flaming torches and populated by the cool crowd. What’s more, we’ll even throw in breakfast.

To have a chance of winning this wonderful prize, you just need to tell us the correct answer to this question:

In which area of Dubai is Vida Downtown Dubai?

A) Dubai MarinaB) JumeirahC) Downtown

Email your answer to easywin@hotmediapublishing.com by February 29, 2016.

76

WeekendsSuite Dreams

What:Premier Suite

Where:London Marriott Hotel

Park Lane

About:Housed within a Grade II listed

building on London’s Park Lane, where it looks out to Hyde

Park and Marble Arch, there was already much to admire about London Marriot Hotel Park Lane. But an extensive

renovation, completed last year, has catapulted this

now beautifully designed, intimate hotel onto the list

of London’s must-stays. Your suite of choice should be this, the Premier Suite, the feel of which is very much that of a historic London townhouse.

Beyond its grand bedroom, the suite’s features include a living room, soundproof windows to block out the hustle and bustle

below, and an array of curated, conversation-starting British

artworks on its walls, a key feature of the hotel throughout.

marriott.com

SuiteDreams

Abu Dhabi - one of the world's most eventful destinations.

AbuDhabiEvents.ae has got you covered! Visit us online or download our free mobile app to find out everything you need to know about what's happening in the emirate.

So don't wait, get up-to-date!

Join the conversation on..

abudhabievents

arts

music

business

sports

culture

lifestyle

there is something for everyone!

The happening place to be!

76

WeekendsSuite Dreams

What:Premier Suite

Where:London Marriott Hotel

Park Lane

About:Housed within a Grade II listed

building on London’s Park Lane, where it looks out to Hyde

Park and Marble Arch, there was already much to admire about London Marriot Hotel Park Lane. But an extensive

renovation, completed last year, has catapulted this

now beautifully designed, intimate hotel onto the list

of London’s must-stays. Your suite of choice should be this, the Premier Suite, the feel of which is very much that of a historic London townhouse.

Beyond its grand bedroom, the suite’s features include a living room, soundproof windows to block out the hustle and bustle

below, and an array of curated, conversation-starting British

artworks on its walls, a key feature of the hotel throughout.

marriott.com

SuiteDreams

Abu Dhabi - one of the world's most eventful destinations.

AbuDhabiEvents.ae has got you covered! Visit us online or download our free mobile app to find out everything you need to know about what's happening in the emirate.

So don't wait, get up-to-date!

Join the conversation on..

abudhabievents

arts

music

business

sports

culture

lifestyle

there is something for everyone!

The happening place to be!

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971 4 414 0000, F +971 4 414 0001 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | @JWDubaiMarquis | JWMarriottMarquisDubai

Elevating Luxuryto New Heights.Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai stands elevated above Dubai’s Business Bay on Sheikh Zayed Road, in the heart of one of the most desirable locations in the city.

of diverse restaurants and lounges.

1,608 LUXURIOUS GUEST ROOMS AND SUITES

SARAY SPA FEATURING TRADITIONAL HAMMAMS AND A DEAD SEA FLOATATION POOL

For more information please call +971 4 414 0000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com

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