Kevin Cevasco Global Studies Seminar Professor Mendez May 2, 2014

Final Project: Ten Things to Know Before Traveling to Beijing

During my year studying abroad at The Beijing Center for Chinese Studies, I learned

countless lessons that I will carry with me for a lifetime. Arguably one of the most significant

has been the importance of cultural exchange in understanding those who one considers different.

Before going to China, I had many preconceptions and stereotypes about Chinese people, food,

culture, social life, and political structure. In my time there, however, I often met with a Chinese

tutor, explored Beijing with Chinese friends, traveled to over forty cities in fourteen different

provinces, interacted with several different ethnic minority groups, and grew to understand China

in a more comprehensive way.

In the modern age of technology wherein individuals on opposite sides of the world can

connect in seconds, interaction between the civil societies of counties is growing increasingly

important. It is this dialogue and cultural exchange that allows for deeper understanding of

problems that may be distorted by governments and the media. Therefore, for my final project, I

have tried to give Americans (or Westerners in general) a way to learn some basic facts about

China before traveling there so that their visit is more meaningful and that they can understand

how Chinese nationals live on an everyday basis. One of the most popular trends now are the

websites “Buzzfeed” and “ThoughtCatalog,” on which people can post quick messages regarding

a variety of different topics. The one which I have submitted to both sites is titled “Ten Things to

Know Before Traveling to China,” and it features a dozen or so pictures that I took while abroad

that I think teach important lessons to foreigners traveling to China – Beijing especially. In

creating this page, I hope to increase understanding between Chinese nationals and Westerners,

so that our opinions of each other are not defined solely by the media and government, but

instead by human interactions. Before traveling to China, here are some things that every

foreigner should know.

Ten Things to Know Before Traveling to China.

1. Politics

Although technically a multi-party state, China’s political climate is dominated by the Chinese Communist Party (CCP). When traveling to China, one should generally avoid talking about politics. Although political discourse is common in Western countries, there is a general sense of apathy regarding politics in China. This is largely a result of Tiananmen Square (pictured above) incident of 1989, when the Chinese government used the military to quash a pro-democracy demonstration led by many students in Beijing. Specifically, the Tiananmen Square incident is taboo, and many in the millennial generation have not even learned about it from their parents, as it is still a sensitive topic. It is one of many sensitive topics that should not be brought up in conversation in China. A good rule to go by is to avoid the three Ts – Tiananmen, Tibet, and Taiwan.

2. Development

It is common in the Western media to hear about the rapid economic growth that China has experienced over the past several decades. As a rising Communist country, many in Washington are understandably nervous about what a more powerful China will mean for global interactions. This rapid rise is largely due to the economic reforms that took place during the 1980s that opened up its economy to the outside world and ceased the command economy policies followed during the 1950s-70s under Chairman Mao Zedong. The picture above captures the expansive nature of China’s development from the top of a skyscraper in Shanghai. For the most part, China’s development has been largely funded by the exporting of cheap goods. With competition of inexpensive labor in other Southeastern countries, however, the CCP has been trying to stimulate growth through more domestic consumption. One such enormous project will be the forced migration of over 250,000 rural farmers into cities by the year 2025. Although there have been many negative side-effects to China’s development – human rights abuses in factories, destruction of traditional cities, pollution (especially the smog!) – the country’s economic policies have managed to bring over 300,000 people above the international poverty line. That’s the entire population of the United States!

3. The Economy

A common narrative among many in the West is that, because China is developing and modernizing and has many Western businesses such as Starbucks, KFC, Apple, and McDonald’s, then surely its economy is capitalist. Many argue that China is capitalist, but just communist in name. This is a drastic misconception. Granted, China’s economic development has been fueled by the opening up of its economy over the past several decades. However, many of its sectors are still controlled by the state and protected from international competition. The best example would be the banking sector in China. Currently, there are four big commercial banks: the Bank of China, China Construction Bank, Industrial and Commercial Bank of China, and Agricultural Bank of China, all of which are state-owned. China’s rapid economic development has also led to incredibly large infrastructure projects by state-owned enterprises (SOEs), many of which are funded by China’s “Big Four.” Another important aspect of China’s economy that should be considered is the lack of intellectual property law rights. Throughout the country, one can find cheap photocopies of books, movies, restaurants, etc. From a business standpoint, this is extremely dangerous because corporations that rely on expensive research and development are at risk when doing business with China, as the technological secrets of their product may not be safe.

4. Diversity

In the West, many think that all Chinese look the same (or Asians for that matter). In China, they say the same about white foreigners! However, China actually consists of 55 ethnic minorities, in addition to the Han majority. Throughout much of its history, the land considered China has mostly been what makes up the Southeastern section of the country’s current geography. Over time, the identity of the Han developed. The Han make up over 87% of China’s 1.3 billion person population. Pictured above are dancers of the Yi ethnic minority, one of the many ethnic minorities that can be found in China’s southern Yunnan province. Other ethnic minorities of which travelers to China should be aware are the Tibetans and Uyghurs. As with the politically sensitive topics mentioned in the Politics section, one should not discuss the government’s interaction with Tibetans and Uyghurs – unless of course you happen to run into one on the streets of Beijing. Over the past several decades, the CCP has continued to suppress both of these ethnic minorities, to the point that many Uyghurs have resorted to violence and Tibetans to self-immolation. In fact, the Uyghurs have even been labeled a terrorist group because of their reaction to the government’s suppression.

5. Food and Dining

As with visiting any country for the first time, travelers to China should certainly take advantage of the unique food that can be found. The picture above shows a typical meal in China where most food is served family-style, with “lazy Susans” in the middle of the table to rotate the dishes. If you are uncomfortable using chopsticks, then it is probably best to start practicing before leaving the West because only very upscale restaurants offer silverware. Because everything is family-style, there is no custom of waiting for everyone to have their own dish before starting to eat. Also – each dish usually has its own pair of chopsticks in it, which should be used to serve in order to prevent the spread of germs. Typically at meals with family, friends, or coworkers, a significant amount of toasts are given with whatever alcoholic beverage is being served, usually either beer or baijiu, a traditional rice-based liquor. If you do not drink alcohol, then tea is a socially acceptable substitute. During toasts, the host of the meal will say something and then yell “Gan Bei!” which literally means dry class and requires one to finish his/her drink. It is not too difficult of a feat, however, because drinks are served in small glasses. One other tip is not to stick a pair of chopsticks into a rice bowl with rice still in it. This is because the shape of the chopsticks looks like the number for si 四, which sounds very similar to si 死, as in death, so it is a bad omen to do so. That is also why the levels of tall buildings do not have a four in them, usually skipping from three to five.

6. Chinglish (Chinese-English)

Any visitor to China should constantly be on the look-out for poorly translated English, or what has been nicknamed “Chinglish.” This can vary from street signs, to restaurant names and even very offensive t-shirts. For the most part, this is simply just an entertaining aspect of traveling to China. It is also a good conversation-starter for trying to get to know locals. Most Chinese business owners will be very appreciative of the opportunity to practice their English (if they speak it) and would largely be thankful for corrections to a business sign so that they can seem more legitimate. I once ate at a restaurant called “Syntax Error,” which has caused me to believe that whatever online translator the owner used had malfunctioned, and he did not speak enough English to understand what had happened, thinking that “Syntax Error” was the translation of what he wanted to say. Most of the time, one can decipher what the signs actually say, but they sure do make for a good laugh.

6. Smog

One of the most significant repercussions of China’s economic development has been the degradation of its environment, in this case its air quality. In many Chinese cities, the AQI (or Air Quality Index) is daily measured over what is concerned healthy. The EPA recommends that the AQI not reach levels greater than 35, but a range of 100-150 could be considered a good day in Beijing. In January 2013, the AQI level reached over 900, which is beyond the measurement chart provided by the United States’ Embassy. That is why the month was later nicknamed Beijing’s “airpocalypse.” For visitors traveling to China, especially those with breathing problems, it makes sense to buy a filtered mask for walking around the city on more polluted days. The average person, however, will not be too terribly affected from just a short trip to a city with bad air pollution. It can have some immediate effects, such as drowsiness and irritability, but that is unfortunately the price to pay in order to visit China these days. It is also smart to download the U.S. Embassy’s AQI smartphone app, so that you can be aware of each day’s conditions. For a tourist, the worst part about the smog can be the hazy views and pictures that will result from touring on smoggy days.

7. Squatty Potties

Any visitor to China should be ready to be pushed out of his/her comfort zone in many ways, but the bathroom situation is certainly one of the most challenging for foreigners. The picture above is a rarity in China, in that it offers an option between a Western toilet or the affectionately nicknamed “squatty potty.” Seriously though, the bathroom situation in China is worth mentioning because many foreigners can be caught off guard. If you feel like you are out of shape before going, it might not be a bad idea to start working out your legs, especially your quads. For gentlemen it is really only an inconvenience in certain situations, but many Western ladies have been frustrated by the situation, especially because toilet paper in public bathrooms is also a rarity. It is always smart to carry either napkins, tissues, or even a personal roll of toilet paper wherever you go because, especially when experimenting with new food that your stomach is not used to, you never know when nature will call. On most modern modes of transportation, you can find Western-style toilets. However, the overnight trains that are cheaper than the high-speed rails only offer squatties, and even those are not open when the train is at the station because its plumbing system is just a hole that goes straight down to the tracks. On a side note – another recommendation would be to bring hand sanitizer, lots and lots of hand sanitizer.

8. Lack of Personal Space

You never truly understand what it means to live in a country with 1.3 billion people until you try and squeeze your way onto a Chinese subway. Because of the nature of Chinese cities, there really is no concept of personal space. Whether on the subway, bus, train, or walking through a crowded tourist site, it is not uncommon for Chinese locals to push each other out of the way and stand extremely close to each other in crowded areas. Really the only way to survive in many of the larger cities like Beijing is to play the game and let go of all opinions on politeness. Those who do not push and shove to get onto the subway will never make it to their desired destination. Seriously though – even old ladies will feel no remorse about throwing in an elbow to get off at a subway stop. Even in areas that are not crowded, many Chinese will look at what book you are reading, glance at text messages, and stand extremely close to foreigners. Although it is not as common in the cities, many Chinese have never seen a foreigner before, so any actions that may seem offensive, rude, over-the-top, or annoying may actually be out of curiosity.

9. Celebrity Status

As mentioned earlier, many local Chinese, especially those living in rural areas, have never seen a foreigner before. As a result, when they visit the cities and see white, black, or Hispanic people for the first time, it is quite a big deal. At many big tourist attractions, it is quite common to see Chinese locals approach random foreigners and ask to take a picture – not of the people they came with and whatever the tourist attraction is, but with the foreigner him/herself. In many ways, the foreigner becomes a more interesting attraction than the tourist site itself. The picture above shows a Chinese local news network interviewing a white foreigner at a religious festival. News stations, companies, and the everyday person are often fascinated by foreigners. In the case of companies’ advertising schemes, having a foreigner in a commercial or on a billboard makes the product seem more interesting and is often good for business. When touring areas, local Chinese tourists are especially drawn to black people and white blondes with blue eyes, seeing as the typical Asian features are so drastically different than theirs. There have also been stories of Chinese women approaching young blonde girls with their families and petting their hair. This is just a sign of curiosity, and the best way to react is to just enjoy the cultural exchange and not take offense to it.

10. Safety Standards

Finally, wherever you travel in China, it is important to understand that a very different set of safety standards exist there than in the West. As seen in the picture above, clearly regulations regarding children’s car seats are nonexistent. However, this applies to a wide variety of aspects of life. Seat belts are almost entirely unavailable in taxi cabs. The water supply in many cities can be polluted or filled with minerals, so it is often best to boil it. More often than not, water at restaurants is served hot unless it is bottled. Likewise, the safety standards of food are not very trustworthy, so it is best to order food that is cooked thoroughly and only eat it if it comes out hot. Crossing the street can also be a challenge because cars actually have the right-away, so all pedestrians should follow street lights religiously. Poor safety standards also apply to the factories where many Chinese laborers work, but a tourist will usually not have the opportunity to witness them first-hand. Overall, there is a sense that safety is one’s personal responsibility, and for a foreigner especially it is unlikely that legal recourse would follow from a believed wrongdoing. Crime levels in most Chinese cities is rather low, with the most common being theft. However, it is still important to be on the lookout and just mindful of one’s surroundings. Overall, though, intelligent decisions and being mindful will keep any tourist safe when traveling through China.