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Khorezm - a bit out of the ordinary

Published by:

Center of Business and Tourism Development (CBTD)

R. Majidiy St. 14

220900 Khiva, Uzbekistan

T +998-62-375-2455

Authors:

Hannelore Bendsen, Shakhnoza Atodjonova, Dilmurod Bobojonov

Location and Date of Publication:

Khiva, Uzbekistan

February 2016

This tourism guide has been published with the support of the Sustainable Economic

Development in Selected Regions of Uzbekistan Programme implemented by Deutsche

Gesellscha$ fr Interna'onale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH on behalf of the German Federal

Ministry for Economic Coopera'on and Development (BMZ).

GIZ supports partner organisa'ons in Uzbekistan in the development of sustainable tourism.

!""!

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Table of Contents

Introducon .................................................................................................................. 6

Acknowledgement ........................................................................................................ 7

Ichon Qala, the Inner City of Khiva ............................................................................... 8

Walk through Ichon Qala ............................................................................................ 8

Khorezmian Melons and Melon Fes'val in Khiva ...................................................... 11

Discover Places of Interest outside the Ichon Qala Wall .............................................. 12

Nurullaboy Complex ................................................................................................... 12

Qibla Toza Bog, the Khans Summer Residence ........................................................ 13

Xusan Muhammadboy Medressa .............................................................................. 14

Sayid Mohi Royi Jahon Complex ................................................................................ 14

The Khiva Ice House ................................................................................................... 15

Tort Shovvoz Complex ............................................................................................... 15

Khorezm Mamun Academy ....................................................................................... 16

The Oriental Bazaars of Khiva .................................................................................... 17

Tour to the Sights in the Outskirts of Ichon Qala ...................................................... 18

Map of the Khiva Tour to Places of Interest outside of Ichon Qala .......................... 21

Tourist Sights in the Khorezm Region .......................................................................... 22

The Turkmen Fortress, Ulli Hovli ................................................................................ 22

The Urgench Art Gallery ............................................................................................. 23

Chodra Hovli, the Khans Summer Residence ............................................................ 24

Kharrot, Touris'c Complex at Lake Eshon Rovot ....................................................... 25

Qora Kol Touris'c Complex ........................................................................................ 26

Qalajiq Qala and the Salt Water Lake Touris'c Complex ......................................... 27

Sulaymon Qala and a Visit to Ar'sts in Hazorasp ..................................................... 28

Holy Sites in Khorezm and Southern Karakalpakstan ................................................... 29

Voyangan Bobo and Sheikh Savroniy Bobo Mausoleum ........................................... 29

Yusuf Hamadoni Mausoleum ..................................................................................... 30

Jilovdor Bobo Mausoleum ......................................................................................... 30

Sheikh Mavlon Bobo Complex ................................................................................... 31

Sheikh Muhtor Valiy Mausoleum ............................................................................... 32

Sultan Uvays Bobo Complex ...................................................................................... 33

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The Fortresses in Southern Karakalpakstan ................................................................. 34

Toprak Qala and Qizil Qala ....................................................................................... 34

Ayaz Qala and Yurt Camp .......................................................................................... 35

Jonbos Qala and Yurt Camp ...................................................................................... 36

Gavur Qala ................................................................................................................. 37

Janpik Qala ................................................................................................................ 37

Akshakhan Qala ......................................................................................................... 38

Yakke Parsan Qala ..................................................................................................... 38

Ecotourism in Khorezm ............................................................................................... 39

Recrea'on Areas along the Amudarya River ............................................................. 39

Ornithological Tour in Khorezm and Karakalpakstan ................................................ 40

The Agricultural System of Khorezm ............................................................................ 42

Fruits of the Khorezm Region ..................................................................................... 43

Cereals, Vegetables and Livestock of the Khorezm Region ....................................... 44

Tour Suggesons in Khorezm and South Karakalpakstan ............................................. 45

Stopover at the Turkmen Fortress, Ulli Hovli ............................................................. 45

Day Excursions to Tourist Sights East of Khiva and to Qalajiq Salt Lake .................... 46

Ou'ngs to the Recrea'on Centres Qora Kol and Kharrot ......................................... 47

Half Day Excursion to Fortresses in Southern Karakalpakstan .................................. 48

The Big Qala Tour ...................................................................................................... 49

Excursion to Lesser-known Fortresses in Southern Karakalpakstan ......................... 50

Day Excursion to the Holy Sites in Southern Karakalpakstan .................................... 51

Arts and Cra4s in Khiva and the Khorezm Region......................................................... 52

Khiva Suzanni Centre in the Abdurasulboy Medressa ............................................... 53

Khiva Silk Carpet Workshop ....................................................................................... 54

Silk Carpet PaJerns........................................................................................... 55

PoJery Workshops in Khiva District .......................................................................... 56

PoJery Workshop of Master Rustam Toirov in Khiva ............................................... 57

PoJery Workshop in KaJabog near Yangiariq.......................................................... 58

Ceramic Workshop in Madyr near Xonqa .................................................................. 59

Woodcarving, an old Khorezmian Cra$ ..................................................................... 60

Puppet Making in Khiva ............................................................................................. 61

Furrier, an Ancient Profession in Khorezm ................................................................ 62

Tourism Infrastructure ................................................................................................ 63

Restaurants in Khiva within the Inner City Wall (Ichon Qala) ................................... 63

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Restaurants in Khiva outside of Ichon Qala .............................................................. 64

Restaurants and Cafes in Urgench ............................................................................. 65

Restaurants and Cafes in Al-Khorezmiy Street, Urgench ........................................... 66

The Na'onal Cuisine of Khorezm ............................................................................... 67

Accommoda'on Facili'es in Khiva ............................................................................ 68

Hotels in Khiva ............................................................................................................ 70

Accommoda'on Facili'es in Urgench ........................................................................ 71

Hotels, Restaurants and Recrea'on Centres in the Khorezm Region ....................... 72

Accommoda'on Facili'es in Nukus ........................................................................... 73

Accommoda'on Facili'es in Southern Karakalpakstan ............................................. 73

Transport Op'ons to and from Khiva ........................................................................ 74

Distances between Towns in Khorezm and Southern Karakalpakstan ...................... 75

Map of Tourist Sights in Khorezm and Southern Karakalpakstan ............................. 76

Map Legend ................................................................................................................ 77

Distances from main Villages to Tourist Sights in Khorezm ....................................... 78

Distances from main Villages to Tourist Sights in Karakalpakstan ............................ 79

Professional Tour Guides in Khorezm ........................................................................ 80

Professional Tour Guides in Karakalpakstan ............................................................. 83

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This brochure has been compiled as a result of a thorough tourism poten'al survey of Khorezm

and Southern Karakalpakstan. Several of the sights depicted here are not well-known and are not

included in tour programmes yet. Our inten'on is to make people aware of the diversity of the

touris'c offer of Khorezm and to provide hands on informa'on on the tourism infrastructure of

the region.

When you come to Khorezm, a walk through Ichon Qala, the centre of the famous Silk Road City

Khiva, is a must. You will catch the oriental flair of this fascina'ng town a lot beJer if you also

visit one of the bazaars, some of the cra$ workshops or stroll through the narrow streets of the

adjacent residen'al areas. You will learn much more about the town and its history if you hire an

experienced professional tour guide.

Thanks to the Regional Tourism Development Plan, signed by the President in 2013, the urban

images of Urgench and Khiva have undergone a positive change. Many historic monuments were

renovated, the tourism infrastructure improved and the framework conditions for private

entrepreneurs to set up tourism businesses eased.

Khiva has a lot more to offer than the historic monuments located in the inner city. There are

many interes'ng, lesser-known sights outside of the Ichon Qala wall. Some of them, which are in

easy reach of town, are described in this brochure. If you have a bit more 'me, you also find

excursion sugges'ons to interes'ng places in the outskirts of Khiva. You might consider an

ecotourism tour along the Amudarya River or the ornithological tour described in the brochure.

Khorezm has numerous holy sites, which are of great interest not only to worshipers. Many ruins

of ancient for'fica'ons da'ng back to pre-Chris'an 'mes are located in Southern Karakalpakstan

at the border of the Kyzylkum Desert and the fer'le Amudarya plains. The so-called Ellik Qala

(fi$y fortresses) District is definitely worth a visit. Several sugges'ons for excursions to the

fortresses have been made.

The results of a hotel and restaurant survey of the Khorezm Region will provide you with more

informa'on on the wide choice of catering and accommoda'on facili'es.

A map of all the tourist sights outside of Khiva and two distance tables, one between villages and

one from villages to tourist sights, will help you to plan and compose trips according to your

wishes. A few sugges'ons for interes'ng day trips star'ng from Khiva have been put together for

you to choose from.

We hope this brochure will make you aware of the hidden treasures of Khorezm and inspire you

to spend more 'me here to discover them.

Introducon

7

The Director of the Center of Business and Tourism Development (CBTD), Adilbek Rahimov,

facilitated the work on this guidebook.

The staff of the Hokimiyats of Hazorasp, Bogot, Yangiariq, Gurlan, Yangibozor and Shovot guided

us to the historic and ecotourist sites in their districts and provided important historic

background informa'on.

Special thanks to Helmut Bendsen, who helped with mapping the sites and formaNng this

guidebook. The GIZ consultant, Kathrin Grundmann, assisted in compiling and designing the

tourism map.

The CBTD in Khiva is a small non-governmental organisa'on (NGO) that assists tourism

entrepreneurs in Khorezm to improve their services and market the region as a tourism

des'na'on. The NGO could not have afforded the publica'on of this guidebook without financial

assistance of the Deutsche Gesellscha$ fr Interna'onale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) on behalf of the

German Federal Ministry of Economic Coopera'on and Development (BMZ).

Hannelore Bendsen, GIZ Senior Tourism Expert, CBTD

Shakhnoza Atodjonova, GIZ Junior Tourism Expert, CBTD

Dilmurod Bobojonov, Research Fellow, Khiva Ichan-Kala State Reserve Museum

Khiva, February 2016

Acknowledgement

8

Ichon Qala, the Inner City of Khiva

A$er crossing the endless Kyzylkum Desert, you

will be able to imagine the importance of this

oasis city during the 'mes of caravan trade. Apart

from its key role as a trade metropolis, it used to

be a religious, cultural and scien'fic centre. The

well-preserved old city, Ichon Qala, surrounded

by a for'fica'on wall, with its numerous

mosques, mausoleums, minarets and its four

gates has been listed by UNESCO as a World

Heritage Site (entrance fee 12US$ in season).

The tour of Ichon Qala will start at the West Gate

(Ota Darvoza, 19th century). It leads past the

Muhammad Amin Khan Medressa (19th

century), used as a hotel today, to the unfinished,

blue, stout minaret Kalta Minor also called Kok

Minor (1855). You will visit the khans residence,

the old citadel, Kuhna Ark (16th-19th century),

that includes a mosque, a recep'on hall, a harem,

a mint, an arsenal and a dungeon. At the back of

the throne room, you can climb the watch tower

from which you will have a stunning view of the

old city (extra fee 1.5US$).

Opposite Kuhna Ark, is the Muhammad Rakhim

Khan II Medressa (19th cent. AD), used un'l

1920. The khan was a famous poet, who wrote

under the pen name Feruz. The medressa

contains the Museum of Literature and History of

Khorezm. Across the main west-east road is the

oldest monument of Khiva the Sayid Allauddin

Mausoleum da'ng back to the Timurid period

(14th century). The holy site, beau'fully 'led

with relief majolica, is visited by many Muslims.

Sayid Allauddin, a rela've of prophet

Muhammad, preached the Islam in Khorezm.

Ota Darvoza, Kalta Minor Minaret

Pahlavon Mahmud Complex, Islom Hoja Minaret

Muhammad Rakhim Khan II Medressa

Sayid Allauddin Mausoleum, back view

Walk through Ichon Qala

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Another well-known Muslim pilgrimage site with

stunning blue 'ling is the Pahlavon Mahmud

Mausoleum (14th century). The Sufi, Pahlavon

Mahmud, was a famous wrestler, poet,

philosopher and furrier (extra entrance fee

2US$). Adjacent to the mausoleum there are the

tombs of several khans and their families.

Vis-a-vis you can see Shergozi Khan Medressa

built from 1719 to 1726 by war prisoners from

Persia. Students from many Central Asian

countries studied here.

The next site is Juma Mosque with 213

beau'fully carved wooden columns and a

minaret (10th-18th cent. AD). Some of the

columns date back to the 10th century. When the

Iranians conquered Khiva in 1740, the mosque

was burned. Many columns were replaced by

dona'ons from private people.

Next to it, there is Islom Hoja Medressa and the

adjacent minaret (20th century), which is the

highest observa'on point in town (57m). The

view from the minaret is worth the effort of

climbing the dark, narrow staircase (fee 1.5US$).

The medressa houses the Museum of Applied

Arts that exhibits ancient Khorezmian handicra$s.

Islom Hoja, the vizier of the khan, was a reformer.

He implemented the introduc'on of the

telegraph as means of communica'on and built a

hospital that is s'll in use and the first New

Method School (1910). In this school Russian,

German, and French were taught. The photos and

the equipment of the first photographer and film

director in Central Asia, X. Devanov, are exhibited

here.

Near the Polvon Darvoza (East Gate), is the small

Oq Mosque (White Mosque) built in 1657.

Wall of the inner city, Ichon Qala

Plov cooking in a qozon on a loam oven

Juma Mosque

Tosh Hovli, reception

10

The huge fortress-like palace, Tosh Hovli, built by Allakuli Khan (1830-1838) is one of Khivas

highlights. The palace had over 100 rooms, beau'fully decorated with blue 'les and painted

wooden ceilings. Daily, at 17:00, you can watch the performance At the Khans Recep'on free

of charge in the harem.

A$er admiring the historic monuments of Khiva, you should wander off the beaten track to get

an impression of peoples everyday life. About 2000 people live inside the inner wall. Walk

through its streets, enjoy the smell of the fresh bread baked in the tandir ovens, and peep into

peoples courtyards.

Stroll down to the colourful Dehqon bazaar located just at the outskirts of Polvon Darvoza. Try

some of the delicious nuts, fresh or dried fruit or the bakery products offered there.

Old couple on a visit to Khiva

Children

Al-Khorezmiy Statue Blue Minaret, Kalta Minor at night

Traditional painted wooden ceiling

Typical Khiva majolica tiles

11

Historically, Central Asia has been famous for the

great variety and excellent quality of its melons.

There is proof that already in the 2nd century BC

dried melon products were exported to China by

Silk Road traders. Melon seeds were found during

excava%on works near Toprak Qala, a fortress in

Southern Karakalpakstan, da%ng back to the 3rd

century AD.

Many melon types are grown in Uzbekistan.

Khorezm and Karakalpakstan are famous melon

growing regions. About forty different local

melon varie%es are on the markets. They can be

dis%nguished by the %me they reach maturity

(early, mid-season, late ripening species), by

shape, size, skin and pulp texture and last but not

least by their taste. Melons with good shelf life

are also marketed to other regions.

Dont leave Uzbekistan without tas%ng some of

its delicious, sweet, juicy melons. On the melon

sec%on of the farmers market in Khiva you can

find many melons with exo%c names such as

Sariq Zamcha (yellow, early ripening), Kari Kiz

(grey green, late, wrinkly skin), Gurvak (grey

green), Bori Kalla (grey green), Mahalliy Beshak

(late ripening, good shelf life), Shoyi Qovun

(midseason ripening), Bol Qovun (yellow,

midseason), Alla Halma (late, dark green),

Kokcha (early ripening, green, net pa4ern).

A touris%c highlight is the Gurvak Melon

Fesval held in Khiva annually on the first

weekend of August. Farmers display their melons

and can win prizes for the best products. Singers

and dancers from the whole region entertain the

audience.

Other events (a puppet-, a dance- and a culture fes%val) are planed to be held regularly in Khiva.

Khorezmian Melons and Melon Fesval in Khiva

The juicy melons are ideal to quench your thirst

Melon art

Melon vendor performance

Melon dance

12

The Nurullaboy Complex is situated a few

hundred meters north of the West Gate of Ichon

Qala. While the recepon palace is open to

visitors, the rest of the complex is under

renova%on. Nurullaboy Medressa is used as

dancing hall for wedding par%es.

To build an impressive complex for his son, Prince

Isfandiyor Khan, Muhammad Rakhim Khan II

bought a huge garden located just outside the

Ichon Qala wall from the wealthy ci%zen,

Nurullaboy. The Nurullaboy Hovlilari Complex,

built between 1884 and 1912, included a harem

and is surrounded by high walls.

A@er his fathers death, Isfandiyor Khan added a

palace for the recep%on of foreign guests. This

palace differs from the other royal residences in

Khiva because of its excep%onal building style and

its extravagant ornamenta%on. Oriental and

European architecture are intermixed. All seven

rooms are decorated differently. Colourful

Russian-style %led stoves, huge mirrors, oriental

mul%-coloured wooden ceilings adorned with

geometric or flower pa4erns, or half-moon and

star symbols are combined with angels drawn by

Russian ar%sts. The high doors, windows and the

parquet floors were made by German Mennonite

carpenters who lived nearby, in Oqmasjid village.

Next to the palace, there is a small local

recrea%on park where you can enjoy a cup of tea

in one of the teahouses. Adjacent to the park,

you will see parts of the outer city wall (Deshon

Qala) of Khiva.

Nurullaboy Complex

Nurullaboy Reception Palace

Nurullaboy Hovlilari entrance gate

Nurullaboy Palace and Harem

Discover Places of Interest outside the Ichon Qala Wall

13

In 1897, Muhammad Rakhim Khan II built Qibla

Toza Bog as his summer residence. The palace

complex is located in the south-west of Khiva,

700m outside the Deshon Qala wall. It is

surrounded by a huge vegetable and fruit garden

that is s%ll in use. You enter the garden from the

east side through a gate in the loam brick wall.

Following the entrance path arched by vine

plants, you reach the water pond where there is

ample space for parking.

The palace complex covers an area of 120m x

50m. It consists of the two-storey residence itself,

a library, a harem, stables, a mill and other

service buildings grouped around three

courtyards. In the middle of the main courtyard,

there is a pool shaded by four Field Elm trees. The

recep%on palace, now used as restaurant, was

built in 1913 by Isfandiyor Khan. The high

windows and doorframes were made by German

Mennonite carpenters. The rooms, which are

used as a restaurant, are decorated with

ornamental wall stucco and have beau%fully

painted wooden ceilings.

If you want to enjoy a meal in this exclusive

environment, booking is required well in advance

Tel.: 62-375-4807 or 91-434-9798.

The lush vegeta%on provides a pleasant

microclimate on hot summer days.

In the gardens of the summer residence the new

hotel Qibla Tozabog Mexmonxonasi (37 rooms)

will open in April 2016.

For bookings contact Shahlo:

Tel.: 91-989-3162

e-mail: baltayevashoxla@gmail.com

Qibla Toza Bog, the Khans Summer Residence

Qibla Toza Bog dining room

Qibla Toza Bog Palace

Qibla Toza Bog porch

Qibla Tozabog Hotel

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Xusan Muhammadboy Medressa is located near

the East Gate of Ichon Qala (Polvon Darvoza),

next to the bazaar. The medressa was built by the

rich merchant, Xusan Muhammadboy in 1905. He

was a follower of the Jadid movement, which

advocated the reform of the Muslim educa%on

system. He made great efforts to introduce

European art and culture to Khiva. Muham-

madboy ac%vely supported educa%ng the youth

of all social groups. Despite of his status and

wealth, he fought against feudalism. Because of his beliefs, he was killed by Junaid Khan in 1918.

In 2013, the medressa was tastefully restored and is now used as a restaurant offering tradi%onal

Khorezmian food (Tel. 91-421-3965).

Xusan Muhammadboy Medressa

Sayid Mohi Royi Jahon Complex

In the 19th century, Muhammad Rakhim Khan II

erected the mausoleum for his grandfather Sayid

Mohi Royi Jahon, over the tomb of Sheikh

Chadirli Ishan . The complex consists of three

buildings. The main mausoleum is the burial site

of several famous Khiva khans of the Kungrad

dynasty, among them Eltuzar Khan, Muhammad

Amin Khan, Muhammad Rakhim Khan II, his

father, Sayid Muhammad Khan and his grandson,

Temurghazi Tura and others. The tombstones are

richly decorated with blue majolica. The graves of

other family members of the khan are in adjacent

buildings. Islom Hoja, the vizier of the khan, is

buried in the building to the right of the main

mausoleum.

There is no entrance fee, however, small

dona%ons for the maintenance of the complex

are appreciated. The mausoleum is open daily

from 9:00-15:00.

The graves of Feruz and his family members

Sayid Mohi Royi Jahon Complex

15

The Khiva Ice House

Several ice houses, Muzxona, were built during

Muhammad Amin Khans reign (1851-1855)

inside the walls of Deshon Qala, next to water

reservoirs. One of them is located south-west

outside of Ichon Qala, near the Bol Xauz

reservoir. It is a 7m high dome structure out of

burned bricks, 10m in diameter with 1.5m thick

walls. Its base goes 2m into the ground.

In winter, when the water in the reservoir froze,

ice was cut into large blocks and stored in the ice house. Layers of reeds were packed as isola%on

material between the ice blocks. In the hot season, the ice was used as drinking water.

The To'rt Shovvoz Complex

Tort Shovvoz is a medium-size complex located

in easy walking distance from Ichon Qala, only

250m north-east of the Dehqon Bazaar. It

consists of a minaret, winter and summer

mosques, three medressas and two Koran

reci%ng centres, grouped around a water basin

shaded by big elm trees and a dome-shaped

water reserve.

In 1642, the complex was developed as a burial

ground. According to the legend, Isfandiyor

Khan I ordered to build a mausoleum to bury

three of his bravest soldiers. Hence, the site was

ini%ally called Uch Shovvoz (Three Eagles). When

Isfandiyor Khan I was buried at the same site, the

name changed into Tort Shovvoz (Four Eagles). In

the 17th century, a 12 meter high minaret was

added to the site. In the course of history the

complex was extended and reconstructed several

%mes: in 1843, by Allakuli Khan, in 1874-75 by Muhammad Rakhim Khan II and by the trader

Xudoybergan Karvanbashi in 1874. One of the three medressas is named a@er the la4er.

Presently Tort Shovvoz Complex is under reconstruc%on, but will be open to the public in 2016.

Tort Shovvoz Medressa and Minaret

Tort Shovvoz Water Reserve, Sardoba

16

Khorezm Mamun Academy

The Great Silk Road stimulated the development

of trade, agriculture, religion, handicrafts as well

as sciences.

In Gurganch (now Kunya Urgench), the academy,

Dorul-hikma was established by the Khorezm

Shakh, Ali Ibn Mamun and operated from about

1004 till 1017. Research in the fields of

astronomy, mathematics, medicine, chemistry,

geography, mineralogy, history, philosophy,

literature and theology was undertaken there.

Together with the Plato Academy in Athens, and

the Bayt al-Hikma Academy in Baghdad, the

Mamun Academy was one of the most famous

scientific institutions in Central Asia. Famous

scholars and encyclopedists like Abu Raikhan al-

Beruniy, and Ibn Sina (Avicenna) were based

here, making important contributions to the

development of science.

Ten centuries passed, before in November 1997,

President Islam Karimov issued a decree to

rebuild the Mamun Academy in Khiva. In

November 2006, the academy celebrated its

1000th anniversary with the participation of great

scientists from all over the world.

Presently the academy houses a library with

20,000 historic books and more than 200 copies

of manuscripts. Many scientists and researchers from different disciplines work here. The

scholars from the academy cooperate with several scientific institutes in the world.

Archaeologists from the academy are carrying out excavation works in historical sites like

Khumbuz Tepa one of the oldest pottery centres in Central Asia. Well-preserved earthenware,

dating back to 4th century BC were found there. Some of the artefacts are displayed in the

Museum of History and Science in the Mamun Academy which is open to the public. Professional

guided tours (in Uzbek, Russian or English language) can be arranged on request

(Tel. +998-97-211-2762 guide Lochin Abdukarimov).

The Museum of History and Science

Khorezm Mamun Academy

Old handwritten book in the Mamun library

17

The Oriental Bazaars of Khiva

If you want to experience the everyday life of

people, a visit to one of the colourful oriental

bazaars is a must.

The Dehqon Bazaar, is located just outside

Polvon Darvoza, the East Gate of Ichon Qala.

Here a great variety of fresh and dried fruit,

vegetables and other food items are sold. There

are many small teahouses where you can try

tasty tradi%onal food.

The Mol Bazaar, livestock market, 1km south-

east of Polvon Darvoza, is something for early

risers. On Sundays, from 6:00 - 9:00 farmers from

the region come to deal in livestock, fodder and

fuel wood. On the Buyum Bazaar, 800m east of

the East Gate of Ichon Qala, household items,

electric equipment and clothes are sold. Around

the corner, on Ehyot Qismlari Bazaar, you can

find all kinds of new and well used spare parts.

Cattle Bazaar - The deal is made by hand shake! A big choice of spare parts is available

Visit the Cattle Bazaar Try one of the traditional dishes sold on the bazaar

Khorezm bread, Dehqon Bazaar

Dehqon Bazaar

18

Tour to the Sights in the Outskirts of Ichon Qala

There are many tourist sights outside of the walls of Ichon Qala

worth visi%ng. The following tour can be done either by tour bus,

by taxi, by bicycle, or if you are fit even on foot. You will not only

get to know some of the historic sites, but also have a good chance

to experience local life in Khiva.

The tour starts at Ota Darvoza (West Gate). From there, follow the

Ichon Qala wall up to Bogcha Darvoza (North Gate).

The first stop is the Khorezm Mamun Academy, the science

centre of Khiva. The historic museum is worth a visit (more

informa%on on page 16).

Pass Qosha Darvoza, one of the gates of the outer wall of Deshon

Qala. Adjacent to it, you can see the old pharmacy of Feruz (now

used as a hotel).

Do not miss to enter the Sayid Mohi Royi Jahon Complex built in

1884 by Muhammad Rakhim Khan II. You will see the beau%fully

%led graves of Feruz, of his grandfather, his father and his

grandson in the main complex, and the grave of his vizier, Islom

Hoja, in the adjacent mausoleum (more informa%on on page 14).

You will pass the Avaz Otar House (presently closed). Avaz Otar

(1884-1919) was a socio-cri%cal na%onal poet of Khorezm who

propagated the importance of educa%on.

You will then reach the Gandimyon Gate (reconstructed in 1970),

which is the entrance to the new bazaar. In the nearby village

Gandimyon, the treaty incorpora%ng the Khiva Khanate as

protectorate into the Russian Empire was signed between the khan

and the Russian General Kaufmann.

Ota Darvoza, West Gate

Khorezm Mamun Academy

Bogcha Darvoza

Qosha Darvoza

Sayid Mohi Royi Jahon

Tomb of Feruzs grandson

Avaz Otar House Gandimyon Darvoza

19

Qoy Darvoza (Sheep Gate) is another main gate of the outer wall

of Deshon Qala.

Now, head for the Dehqon Bazaar. Apart from experiencing the

oriental flair of the bustling market life, you can see the Abdol

Bobo Complex, a holy site built in 19th century.

Next to it is the Polvon Qori Medressa with its minaret (built in

1905). Further on you will see the Niyoz Sholikorboy Complex

(built in 1830-1840), consis%ng of a minaret and a mosque that is

s%ll in opera%on.

At the entrance of the bazaar, you can relax in the restaurant

established in the Xusan Muxammadboy Medressa (more

informa%on on page 14).

A very special site is the To'rt Shovvoz Complex (built in 1885),

considered to be a famous holy site. The complex consists of a

minaret, winter and summer mosques and two Koran recita%on

centres (qorixona) grouped around a water basin with a water

reservoir. The complex is presently being renovated (see page 15).

The next site is the hospital, built in 1912 by Isfandiyor Khan

(under the supervision of his vizier, Islom Hoja), in honour of

Alexey, the son of Tsar Nicolay II who suffered from haemophilia.

Many specialised physicians worked there. Vaccina%ons and

treatment was free of charge. The hospital is s%ll in opera%on. On

the other side of the road, there is the post office, also built under

the reign of Isfandiyor Khan in 1912-1913.

A part of the restored Deshon Qala wall (outer city wall) can be

seen between the stadium and the Khiva Recrea%on Park.

You can also visit the Shoximardon cemetery, where the founder

of the Khiva Khanate, Elbars Khan (1511-1525), is buried.

To'rt Shovvoz Medressa

Qoy Darvoza

Polvon Qori Medressa

Post Office

Hospital

Deshon Qala Wall Shoximardon Cemetery

Street vendor

20

To see old technology s%ll in use, visit the Khiva Ceramic Factory.

Here, you can watch the en%re produc%on process of the

stoneware typical for the Khorezm region. In the museum, you can

admire some of the special pieces produced here. In the adjacent

Ark Teahouse you can take a rest and buy refreshments or a small

meal.

On your way to Qibla Toza Bog, one of the summer residences of

the khan, you can see Ibrohim Hoja Medressa located in what is

now the premises of a school.

Qibla Toza Bog, the summer palace of Muhammad Rakhim

Khan II, was built in 1897 and extended 1913. The palace,

surrounded by high walls, consists of a two-storey residence, a

library, a harem, stables, a mill and other service buildings grouped

around three courtyards. It is surrounded by a huge vegetable and

fruit garden. The palace is used as a restaurant (booking is

needed). For more informa%on, see page 13.

On your way back to Ota Darvoza, you will pass the small minaret,

Chilla Avliyo.

The huge Nurullaboy Complex consis%ng of five courtyards, a

mosque, a medressa, a harem and stables is presently under

reconstruc%on. The Nurullaboy Palace, built in 1912 by Isfandiyor

Khan for the recep%on of foreign guests, can be visited. The palace

differs from the other royal residences in Khiva due to its

excep%onal mixture of western and oriental building styles and its

extravagant ornamenta%on (for more informa%on see page 12).

Finish off the tour at the star%ng point at Ota Darvoza (West Gate).

Khiva Ceramics

Ibrohim Hoja Medressa

Ceramic factory

Nurullaboy Complex Gate Qibla Toza Bog, stucco walls

Qibla Toza Bog

Dining in royal atmosphere

Nurullaboy Palace

21

Map of the Khiva Tour to Places of Interest outside of Ichon Qala

1

2

3

4

13

14

5

6

7

8

9 10 11

12

19

15

16

17

18

20

200m

Touristic site Distance from starting point

1 West Gate 0.0 km

2 North Gate 0.7 km

3 Khorezm Mamun Academy 1.1 km

4 Qosha Darvoza 1.2 km

5 Sayid Mohi Royi Jahon Complex 1.9 km

6 Avaz Otar House 2.3 km

7 Gandimyon Darvoza 2.6 km

8 Qoy Darvoza 2.9 km

9 Abdol Bobo Complex 3.5 km

10 Polvon Qori Medressa 3.6 km

11 Sayid Niyoz Sholikorboy Mosque 3.8 km

12 Tort Shovvoz Medressa 4.5 km

13 Hospital 5.8 km

14 Post Office 5.8 km

15 Shoximardon Cemetery 8.7 km

16 Ceramic Factory 10.2 km

17 Ibrohim Hoja Medressa 11.4 km

18 Qibla Toza Bog 12.0 km

19 Chilla Avliyo Minaret 13.3 km

20 Nurullaboy Complex 14.5 km

1. West Gate 15.2 km

Deshon Qala Wall

Shoximardon Mausoleum

Entrance Nurullaboy Complex

22

Ulli Hovli is a great place for day excursions for

individuals and groups. The rural community is

one of the few tradional Turkmen villages in

Khorezm. The unique tradional buildings and

the acvies offered make the site quite

a"racve.

Ulli Hovli is an old Turkmen forficaon located

24km north-east of Khiva. It is surrounded by

high walls and has been renovated tastefully by

its tenant, Rajobov Davlatnazar. Most rooms in

the side wings are open towards the yard. Some

are equipped with comfortable tea beds

(tapchans) and are decorated with old household

and farm items such as saddles, mugs and mill

stones. Three tandir loam ovens give clients a

chance to observe the process of bread baking. In

the courtyard three yurts have been erected for

dining. In one of the side tracts, modern toilet

facilies have been built. The owner keeps three

camels and two horses. Folklore shows as well as

cock and ram fights can be organised on site. A

horse drawn cart is available for trips through the

village. You can get a glance of the typical big

Turkmen dogs kept there. Next to Ulli Hovli, the

owner established a teahouse with many in and

outdoor si4ng facilies. The refreshing breeze

along the canal makes your stay very pleasant on

hot summer days.

Booking is required. For more informaon

contact:

Rajobov Davlatnazar

Tel.: +998-95-602-2002

+998-91-434-9279

The Turkmen Fortress Ulli Hovli

Tourist Sights in the Khorezm Region

Cock fight

Ulli Hovli teahouse

Entrance to Ulli Hovli

Traditional ram fight

23

The Urgench Art Gallery

The museum is located in Uzbekistan Street 21,

opposite the main bazaar of Urgench. A few

shady si4ng facilies in the garden invite people

to take a rest. Some of the twelve beaufully

carved wooden columns of the porch are more

than 100 years old. The solid wooden doors and

the portal, which is decorated with blue majolica,

give the building its special appearance.

The Art Gallery has been established in 1983 and

holds many exhibits of classic and modern Khorezm and Uzbek art. 347 oil painngs, 253 graphics

and 40 sculptures reflect the everyday life and the landscape of Khorezm or feature scenes from

legends of the region. The work of renown painters, such as Chingiz Ahmarov, Rahim Ahmedov,

Nemat Kuzybaev, Yusuf Yelizarov, Valenn Fadeev, Evgeniy Melnikov, Alisher Mirzaev, Akmal

Nur, Vladimir Burkmakin and Khorezm arsts such as Bahyor Ruzmetov, Atahan Allabergenov,

Tura Kuryayov, Davron Yuldashev can be found there.

For people interested in contemporary Uzbek art, the gallery

is well worth a visit (Tel. director 62-228-4690). Except on

Mondays, the gallery is open from 10:00-17:00. Guided tours

can be arranged ad hoc or booked in advance. The Russian

speaking guide, Shirin, an arst herself, is well familiar with

the collecon and can provide detailed background

informaon (Tel. 95-606-3397).

Urgench, Art Gallery, works of Axmarov Chingiz

Touching the moon

Letter from grandson Ruzmetov Baxtiyor, Amudarya Sumalak

24

Chodra Hovli, the Khans Summer Residence

Restaurant building

Chodra Hovli garden

Chodra Hovli is located 11km east of Khiva along

the Yangiariq road. The four storeyed, tower like,

adobe building is 30m high. It was erected in the

14th century and reconstructed in 1871 by

Muhammad Rakhim Khan II as a summer

residence. Its design is quite unusual. It has a

relavely small base of 16m x 8m. In the

basement, there are two storerooms and the

stables. The other floors were used as residenal

area and consist of small rooms, which are open

towards the garden. The khan used to rest here

and even stayed overnight to escape the heat of

the summer. Chodra Hovli is surrounded by a

huge, lush green fruit and vegetable garden that

is sll in use. The irregular stairs are a bit

uncomfortable to climb, but the view from the

upper floor is rewarding.

It is planned to turn the building in front of the

summer residence into a restaurant.

Behind Chodra Hovli, there is an extensive

network of water bodies used for fish farming.

These lakes are classified by Birdlife Internaonal

as IBA (Important Bird Area) and are a highlight

for bird lovers.

Chodra Hovli

Entrance gate

25

Chodra Hovli Kharrot, Touris'c Complex at Lake Eshon Rovot

In 2015, a new recreaon area was established 6.4 km south of Khiva. The site is located across

the Drujba drainage canal, in the Karakum Desert

at the shore of Lake Eshon Rovot.

The complex consists of an indoor and a rooFop

restaurant from where you can overlook the lake

and enjoy the breeze. You also have the oppor-

tunity to dine in one of the two tradional yurts

or on the tapchan near the boat landing. In the

a"ached hotel up to 12 guests can be accommo-

dated in six comfortable, air condioned double

rooms. All have a private bathroom and TV.

The acvity offer includes fishing, boang or

water scooter driving on the lake, nature walks

along the lakeshore or in the adjacent sand dunes

as well as a visit to the animal park on the

property.

The recreaon area is ideal for day excursions

from Khiva or weekend oungs for the whole

family. The nature lover will be able to experi-

ence the unique flora and fauna of the desert and

the wetland around Lake Eshon Rovot.

For further informaon and bookings:

Tel.: +998-95-620-8555, +998-91-278-1494

+998-93-755-0770

E-mail: eshonrovot@gmail.com

Kharrot, dining yurt

Eshon Kol recreation area

Dine in Kharrots rooftop restaurant

Bukhara Deer in the zoo enclosure Hotel room

26

Qora Kol Touris'c Complex

Baby camel at Qora Kol Touristic Complex

At Lake Qora Kol you can go boating or fishing

The elegant Qora Kol restaurant

The tourisc complex is located 7km south of

Khiva in the Karakum Desert, at the shore of Lake

Qora Kol. AFer crossing the drainage canal, turn

right and you will see the fancy entrance gate in

the middle of the dunes welcoming you to the

recreaon area.

Having passed the gate of the forficaon-like

loam wall of the site, a camel greets you at the

entrance. The fancy tourisc complex consists of

a tall 34m high minaret, a recepon building, a

stylish restaurant, three tradional dining yurts,

and 12 modern yurt shaped hotel rooms each

with an a"ached bathroom. You can hire a

motorboat or a water scooter for an oung on

the lake. From the top of the minaret you have a

spectacular view of the desert and the lake. You

even can spot the skyline of Khiva. Watching the

sunset from up there is stunning.

For bookings contact:

Karakul.2015@mail.ru

Tel.: +998-91-277-7787

Entrance gate to the recreation site

Sunset at Qora Kol Touristic Complex

27

Qalajiq Qala is located in the Bogot area on the

shore of a small saline lake. It is one of the oldest

fortresses in Khorezm dang back to the 4th cent.

BC, originally built to protect the ferle arable

land from invasions of nomadic tribes. Despite its

high walls (14m high and 2.5m in width), the

fortress was conquered by the Arabs and by

Genghis Khan. The enre complex originally

consisted of a medressa, a mosque, a

mausoleum, a caravanserai and living quarters.

From the top of the fortress, you can overlook

the Karakum Desert, the farmland with its

irrigaon systems and the recreaon centre at

the lake.

The very salty water of the lake and the

surrounding sand dunes are famous for their

healing properes. During the hot season, people

come here to seek relief from backache,

rheumasm, muscle tensions, stress symptoms

and other diseases. AFer a bath in the saline

water, paents are buried into hot sand,

somemes up to their neck. AFer a successful

medical applicaon, the enre family relaxes in

the catering facilies along the lake. It is possible

to prepare your own meal on one of the loam

ovens, rented out by local service providers,

including cooking utensils and si4ng facilies.

Alternavely you can order a meal from one of

the teahouses. Besides the historic, medical and

culinary offer, guests can go horseback riding

around the lake or hire a horse cart for a short

trip. You also have the opon to spend the night

in the new hotel at the lake or in one of the

colourful yurt accommodaon facilies. Each yurt

secon has its own bathroom. For bookings:

E-mail: sobirmirob_tour@mail.ru

Tel. +998-95-606-5885, +998-94-677-4445, +998-90-971-5586, +998-90-947-7177

Qalajiq Qala and the Salt Water Lake Touris'c Complex

Hot sand has amazing healing properties

Qalajiq Qala and saline lake

Horse cart ride

Taste traditional food in the Recreation Centre

28

Sulaymon Qala and a Visit to Ar'sts in Hazorasp

One of the oldest fortresses of ancient Khorezm is

Sulaymon Qala, located in the town of Hazorasp,

65km east of Khiva along the road to Bukhara.

The history of Hazorasp can be traced back to the

6th century BC. The fortress was built in the 17th

century and restored in the 19th century. During

that me, the prince of the Khiva Khanate resided

in Hazorasp. The old city wall is sll parally

intact. Unl today, the historic city is used as a

residenal area with 130 houses located inside its

walls. The Qala is bordered by a lake, called

Oydin Kol (bright lake) that is fed by a fresh water

spring. When the fortress was a"acked by

enemies, the khan could escape through an

underwater tunnel. From the top of the fortress,

the sciensts of the khan used to make

astronomical observaons. Being located at a

small lake and the fact that people sll live inside

the fortress walls disnguishes it from many

other ancient forficaons, making it a special

site.

Another interesng place worth vising in

Hazorasp is the Shohpir complex. It consists of a

mausoleum, a cemetery and a mosque that are

sll in use.

Further, its unique arts and craFs are interesng

to visitors. Tandir makers, po"ers, a well-known

sculptor and a painter have their workshops close

to Sulaymon Qala. Guests are welcome to watch

the arsts at work. The local teahouses serve

good food. However, the toilet facilies are basic.

For bookings contact:

Atamuratov Davron

Tel. +998-90-578-1172

Painter, Davron Atamuratov

Tandir maker opposite Sulaymon Qala

Sulaymon Qala

Sculptor, B. Ruzmetov Potter, M. Matyoqubov

29

Holy Sites in Khorezm and Southern Karakalpakstan

Unl the 8th century AD, people in Khorezm were fire worshipers (Zoroastrians). When the Arabs

conquered the region, the Islam became state religion. In the 14th century, several famous Koran

teachers came as missioners to Khorezm, from other Islamic countries. Unl today, their burial

sites are holy places visited by many worshipers. Non-Muslims are also welcome to visit these

holy places. It is beneficial to come with a guide who can interpret the words of the resident

Imam for you. The holy sites have a special atmosphere. Please dress decently and respect the

silence and devoon of other worshipers.

The Voyangan Bobo Complex is located 11km north-west of Shovot village, about 5km from the

Turkmen border (GPS coordinates 41 44 10North, 60 10 30East). It consists of two

mausoleums (of Voyangan Bobo and Hazra Eshon Bobo) surrounded by a huge cemetery. The

complex spreads over an area of 40ha and has been erected on the site of the old Voyangan

fortress, built in 200 BC. In front of the mausoleum, you find a holy stone. People believe that,

when children suffer from herpes, they can be cured by applying yogurt onto their affected lips,

which has been in contact with the holy stone.

From the mausoleum, you can overlook the enre cemetery including a small saline lake. On the

other side of the road, there is the mausoleum of Sheikh Savroniy Bobo, an Islamic leader.

Voyangan Bobo and Sheikh Savroniy Bobo Mausoleum

Sheikh Savrony Bobo Mausoleum

Voyangan Bobo Mausoleum Holy stone

Cemetery and saline lake

30

The Yusuf Hamadoni complex is located in the

Shovot area.

The mausoleum of Yusuf and of Sayid Hamadoni,

originally built in the 12th century AD, was

reconstructed in 1994. It is a famous local Muslim

pilgrimage site. It is believed that Yusuf was holy

and able to heal people with mental problems.

Unl today, mentally ill paents are brought here

to be cured from their disease. They stay for 40

days in one of the guesthouses of the complex.

The Khorezm Tourism Development Plan

includes the renovaon of the Yusuf Hamadoni

Mausoleum. Apart from the improvement of the

access road, the sanitaon facilies are meant to

be upgraded. To provide favourable condions

for local and foreign worshipers, shops,

restaurant facilies, and arsan workshops are to

be built on the site.

Before going to the Yusuf Hamadoni complex,

worshipers usually visit Jilovdor Bobo

Mausoleum, located across the road from Yusuf

Hamadoni complex, where the four loyal servants

of the saint are buried. All four stayed single and

dedicated their enre life serving their master.

While Jilovdor was the charioteer of Yusuf

Hamadoni, Dasturhonchi worked as a

housekeeper, Chiroqchi was in charge of the light

and Ochuvchi was said to be able to change

peoples fate. Entrance gate to Jilovdor Bobo Mausoleum

Yusuf Hamadoni Mausoleum

Jilovdor Bobo Mausoleum

Yusuf Hamadoni Mausoleum

31

The complex is located in Qiyot village in Khiva

district and consists of Sheikh Mavlon Bobos

mausoleum, a summer mosque, and a minaret.

Sheikh Mavlon Bobo was an Islamic teacher in the

17th century AD. The complex was built by

Muhammad Rakhim Khan II from 1889 to 1891,

and became a famous pilgrimage site. The

mausoleum of two famous Uzbek poets,

Muhammad Rizo Agakhiy and Munis Khorezmiy

built in 2004, is located a few hundred meters

away on the cemetery.

Munis Khorezmiy was born in 1778 in Qiyot

village, and died in 1829. He was a poet,

historian, scien0st, translator, calligrapher,

famous teacher and a mirob (water manager). He

got his educa0on in one of the medressas in

Khiva and made his first poetry collec0on, named

Devoni Munis, in 1804. Khorezmiy was asked by

the khan to write a history book of the khanate. It

is a very valuable source of the poli0cal history of

the Khiva Khanate in the 19th century. The book

includes descrip0ons of the rela0onships

between the khanate and neighbouring states.

Another publica0on explains the agricultural

system of the oasis.

Muhammad Rizo Agakhiy, born in 1809 in Qiyot

village, was a poet, historian, translator and

worked as a mirob (water manager). He was fluent in Arabic, Persian, and Turkish. Agakhiy wrote

six history books, a poetry collec0on and translated 20 books from Persian into Arabic.

Muhammad Rakhim Khan II valued his advice and had his words engraved in stone plates placed

in the hall, where he considered peoples pe00ons. One of Agakhiys famous works is his Advice

to a Patron (qasidai nasixat), addressed to Feruz, in which he summarises the character traits of

a good ruler: just, kind, merciful, friendly, well-educated, a moral and spiritual role model.

Further, he advised the khan to have a pure soul, keep away from any indolence, cruelty,

greediness, debauchery, betray, and intrigue. Agakhiy died in 1874.

Sheikh Mavlon Bobo Complex

Mausoleum of the poets Agakhiy and Munis

Sheikh Mavlon Bobo Complex

Summer Mosque

32

The mosque, mausoleum, and cemetery complex

is located 4.5km south-west of Yangiariq village

along the road to Oqmasjid. Sheikh Muhtors

grave is a famous pilgrimage site. The mosque

includes the only preserved Sufi medita0on

chamber (xonaqoh) of Khorezm. Following the

Sufi believes, the Mausoleum was a plain,

whitewashed building. Tiles were added during

renova0on works later.

In the 14th century, Sheikh Muhtor Valiy came to

Khorezm to preach the Islam. He se@led down in

the Khiva area and resided in a mosque (Sheikh

Muhtor Ota Mosque, now Bir Gumbaz

Restaurant). On a nearby mound, where now the

Oq Sheikh Bobo watch tower is located, he taught

his followers. He was buried in the Yangiariq area.

His mausoleum was rebuilt by the vizier of Khiva,

Yoqub Mextar, in the 19th century.

There are many stories about the supernatural

powers of Sheikh Muhtor Valiy. He was known to

be kind to all creatures. Wild animals have been

reported to come to the mausoleum.

The site has a very special flair. The local Imam

will offer to pray with you and provide

informa0on about Sheikh Muhtors life.

Sheikh Muhtor Valiy Mausoleum

Entrance to the Sheikh Muhtor Valiy Mausoleum

Worshipers visiting the holy site

Summer mosque tiled with majolica

Sheikh Muhtor Valiy Mausoleum in 2008 Cemetery around the Mausoleum

33

The mausoleum of Sultan Uvays Bobo is one of

the most famous holy sites in Central Asia even

though, is not certain that Sultan Uvays is buried

here, in Yemen or in Syria. From Beruniy follow

the Nukus road for 35km. The turn-off to the site

is well signposted. The mausoleum is located at

the southern foothills of the Uvays Bobo Range,

3km from the main road. For worshipers who

visit the site, there is a parking lot, framed by

many stalls with souvenirs and religious objects,

as well as slaughtering and cooking facili0es for

the pilgrims.

Sultan Uvays, a famous Islamic preacher, came

from Yemen, where he was a camel shepherd

who got spiritually enlightened. He was a

contemporary of Prophet Muhammad and is

regarded as the founder of the Islamic Sufi

movement. He made a pilgrimage to Medina

once, but did not have the opportunity to meet

Prophet Muhammad in person. However, years

later, Prophet Muhammad sent two of his

followers to Yemen, to give his cloak to Sultan

Uvays. Sultan Uvays died in AD 656.

The first mausoleum erected on this site dates

back to the 9th century. The present building,

constructed in the 19th century, is surrounded by

a huge mazar, a cemetery. During Soviet 0mes, it

had been closed by the authori0es. Today, the

site is open again and the courtyard at the centre

of the mausoleum, invites worshipers to sit and

eat aHer visi0ng the holy place. On top of a

nearby hill, marks in a bolder are said to be the

knee print of the saint. Pilgrims bring offerings to

this site hoping for their wishes to be fulfilled.

Par0cularly on Fridays, the site is well visited.

Sultan Uvays Bobo Complex

Sultan Uvays cemetery

Worshipers in the courtyard of the mausoleum

Sultan Uvays Bobo Mausoleum

34

From Khiva an excursion to the ancient fortresses in neighbouring Karakalpakstan is a very

attractive programme. Most of the 2000-year-old fortresses are located at the edge of the Sultan

Uvays Mountain Range. Built by the people who lived in the fertile Amudarya plains most

fortresses once served as defence structures from the invasions of nomadic tribes, who lived in the

Kyzylkum Desert with their herds.

Toprak Qala and Qizil Qala

Qizil Qala Toprak Qala

Toprak Qala Yurt Restaurant

The Fortresses in Southern Karakalpakstan

From Khiva you will travel 100km passing Urgench, Beruniy and Boston to reach

Toprak Qala. The rectangular settlement, surrounded by high fortification walls, dates back to

the 2nd and 3rd century AD. The city included a palace, a temple, a residential area and gardens.

The palace was built on a 9m high platform. During excavation works, men size sculptures and

images of the rulers of the city and of goddesses on the walls of several halls were discovered. An

entrance fee of 3,000UZS is charged per person.

At the entrance, a yurt restaurant has opened in 2013. For bookings contact the manager Oybek

Jumaboyev Tel. +998-93-201-0000, e-mail: djanbaskala@mail.ru.

You can pass the nearby Qizil Qala, a small but well-preserved fortress that might have been a

double-storey army base with an archers gallery.

Toprak Qala Yurt Restaurant

35

Ayaz Qala is one of the most spectacular

fortresses of the region. It consists of three

fortress complexes. The view from Ayaz Qala

onto the Kyzylkum Desert, the small lake Ayaz,

the Sultan Uvays Range and the oasis is stunning.

The Ayaz Qala yurt camp, famous for its

tradi0onal dishes, is an ideal spot to make a lunch

break or stay overnight.

A tarred road leads to the yurt camp on top of

the plateau. The camp has been set up in 1998.

With financial support of UNESCO a loam winter

building was erected, so that the camp is open

throughout the year. Besides the building, it

consists of 12 yurts which can accommodate up

to 50 people on cosy, na0onal, co@on filled

kurpacha ma@resses. In winter, only three yurts,

equipped with ovens, remain used. Groups of up

to 250 people can be catered for simultaneously.

There are sanita0on facili0es with four toilets,

three showers and two sinks. To secure the water

supply in the camp, three huge water storage

tanks have been installed. However, water has to

be used with care, as it is very precious in the

desert.

From the yurt camp, guests can go on hikes to the

Qalas, or down to the small lake Ayaz, which

unfortunately has shrunk considerably in the last

years, leaving a salt crust at the edges. In

addi0on, camel rides are offered.

It is advisable to book accommoda0on or meals a

few days in advance. For bookings contact the

manager Rano: Tel.: +998-94-644-8699 or the

office in Tortkol +998-61-532-4361.

Ayaz Qala and Yurt Camp

Yurts at Ayaz Qala Camp

Yurt Camp with Ayaz Qala in the background

Sleep on kurpacha mattresses like the nomads

Riding camel at Ayaz Qala Yurt Camp

36

Jonbos Qala and Yurt Camp

Jonbos Qala is located 55km north-east of

Tortkol. A tarred road passes near the fortress,

however, the last 1200m up to the fortress and

further to the yurt camp are in bad condi0on.

Jonbos Qala was most probably built as early as

the 4th century BC. The double walls of the

fortress are 20m high and enclose a rectangular

area of 200m x 170m. From the top of the two-

storeyed galleries, archers defended the fortress.

Through the loopholes in the for0fica0on walls,

they could fire their arrows onto the invaders.

The unique building style can be traced back to

the architecture of the Assyrians and

Achaemenids and was not used anywhere else in

ancient Khorezm. Inside the fortress, residen0al

buildings were erected on both sides of the

central road. About 1000 people could have been

housed in 150-200 rooms. At the end of the main

street, the city's main fire temple was excavated.

In the outskirts of Jonbos Qala, a necropolis (burial site) was found. Burial giHs (terraco@a

statue@es, ceramics, jewellery) discovered here date back to the 1st century AD. Some scien0sts

believe that the town must have been captured by nomadic tribes in the 1st century AD. Another

theory suggests that the dwellers abandoned the city when the Amudarya changed its course,

flooding parts of the site.

Jonbos Qala yurt camp is located 500m uphill from the Qala. It offers rus0c accommoda0on on

kurpacha ma@resses in six tradi0onal yurts. Modern sanita0on facili0es are available. Delicious

tradi0onal dishes are served in the dining yurt. Boa0ng or fishing on the nearby small lake can be

arranged. For bookings contact the manager Oybek Jumaboyev +998-93-201-0000,

e-mail: djanbaskala@mail.ru

Jonbos Qala Yurt Camp

Jonbos Qala

37

Passing the pontoon from the Khorezm side of

the Amudarya, at Jumurtou village, Gavur Qala

majes0cally looms on the east bank of the mighty

river. The fortress dates back to the Early An0que

period (4th cent. BC - 1st cent. AD). It was

abandoned in 4th cent. AD. The northern and

western walls of the fortress are well-preserved.

The southern part has been destroyed by the

meandering river. The fortress is trapezoidal in

shape and had double walls with archers galleries. The walls were strengthened by several

towers. The fortress guarded and controlled the important Amudarya trade route and deemed to

be a Zoroastrian place of worship at the same 0me. From the fortress, you can see a watch tower

upstream on the escarpment.

Gavur Qala

A Russian archaeologist considered Janpik Qala

to be the most beau0ful fortress in Khorezm. The

fortress is located on the banks of the Amudarya

River at the south-western edge of the Sultan

Uvays Mountains. You can access Janpik Qala via

a sand road from Gavur Qala (7km) or from the

Nukus-Beruniy main road. The fortress was

erected on the ruins of an old se@lement da0ng

back to the 4th cent. AD. The fortress itself was

built in 9th-10th century AD. Janpik Qala is irregularly shaped and protected by a double wall

with an archers gallery on the second floor. Five of the towers located 70m apart are s0ll visible.

From 10th - 14th century, Janpik Qala was a town with residential quarters. In the 13th century,

the Mongols conquered and destroyed it. After the invaders left, it was rebuilt and became a centre

of craft production and trade. In different quarters of the fortress craft workshops for glass makers,

weavers, blacksmiths, potters and stone carvers had been established. Artefacts indicate that the

town had a sophisticated water supply and drainage system. After Amir Timur conquered and

destroyed the Khorezm State in 1388, the fortress got abandoned.

Many of the items found during archaeological excava0ons in Janpik Qala are exhibited in the

Savitskiy Museum in Nukus. These artefacts include ceramics, glassware, kniPng hooks for the

produc0on of fishing nets, stoneware, bronze ornaments, jewellery, bone beads, and cowry shell

necklaces. The silver and copper coins found on site indicate that Janpik Qala must have been an

important port and trading post on the Amudarya.

Janpik Qala

38

Akshakhan Qala is located in the midst of driHing

sand dunes, 16.9km north of Beruniy. With an

area of 42ha, it was one of the largest for0fied

se@lements in Ancient Khorezm. The fortress

dates back to the 2nd century BC and was used

un0l the 1st century AD. It consisted of two

for0fied enclosures. Traces of the monumental

buildings (mausoleum, temple and palace) are

s0ll visible. The remains of the fortress are almost

en0rely covered with sand. Excava0on works by

Karakalpak and interna0onal archaeologists are

s0ll ongoing. The discovery of a portrait gallery

(120 portraits) on the walls of the fortress was a

sensa0on and proof for the existence of the semi-

legendary dynasty of the Khorezm Shakhs. Since

the persons depicted on the wall pain0ngs are

wearing crown shaped headdresses and gold

necklaces archaeologists consider that they must

have been powerful rulers. The red ears shown in some of the portraits are presumably a symbol

of power and fer0lity. Artefacts found on site are kept at the Karakalpak Research Ins0tute of

Humani0es in Nukus.

Day Trip to the Holy Sites in Khorezm and South-Karakalpakstan Akshakhan Qala

Shifting sand dunes at Akshakhan Qala

Yakke Parsan Qala

Yakke Parsan is a for0fied manor house that was

in use from the 6th to the 8th century AD. It is

located 17km north-east of Boston, 5km from

the main Boston-Ayaz Qala road.

Excava0on works suggest that the fort must have

been the house of one of the feudal landlords,

called dihqans. There were many manor houses

in the Ellik Qala area, however, Yakke Parsan is

one of the few that has not been destroyed. The nobles lived in square inhabitable towers, called

donjons, protected by for0fica0on walls. Only remnants of the defence wall of Yakke Parsan Qala

are s0ll intact. In the area between the tower and the for0fica0on wall, the serfs of the feudalists

resided. Local landless farmers worked for those wealthy land owners. The donjons oHen were

located in such a way that the land owners had full control over the irriga0on system.

39

Along the banks of the Amudarya River, small

strips of a unique type of riparian vegeta0on, the

Tugai Gallery Forest, can be found. The Tugai

Forest is an important habitat for many wild

animals such as Wild Boar, Bukhara Deer, Persian

Gazelle, Red Fox, Jackal, Tolai Hare and many bird

species. The dominant tree species in the forest

are the Euphrates Poplar, the Willow, the Russian

Olive and the bright pink flowering Salt Bushes

and Tamarisks.

Par0cularly in the hot summer months, the

microclimate in the riparian forest is very

pleasant. Hence, the Tugai Forest is a popular

recrea0on area. Downstream of the Beruniy

bridge, a private entrepreneur has set up a small

ecotourism project named El Tur. If you want to

experience this special type of ecosystem, you

can sit and rest in the shade of old poplar trees.

Along the river there are two yurts and a tapchan

where you can relax and have a picnic or a

sundowner. If you want, you can try to catch a

fish which will be prepared for you on-site.

To reach El Tur ecotourism area, drive via

Urgench towards the Beruniy bridge. Turn leH

just before the police check point and follow the

tarred road for 1.9km un0l you see the sign post

EL TUR. Cross the barrier and follow the dirt

road along the backwaters of the Amudarya to

the banks of the main stream. A small footpath

along the river bank leads through the dense

Tugai Forest to the ecotourism area.

Before going there, contact Hotel Navruz in

Urgench. Tel. +998-62-228-4911,

+998-62-228-4920, +998-93-466-1633

Ecotourism in Khorezm

Recrea/on Areas along the Amudarya River

Road through the Tugai Forest

View of the mighty Amudarya River

Fishing in the calm backwaters of the Amudarya

Dining yurt

40

Ornithological Tour in Khorezm and Karakalpakstan

Khorezm and Southern Karakalpakstan are not

only worth a visit because of their wealth of

historic monuments, they also have a number of

exci0ng birding areas. You can easily combine an

ornithological ou0ng with a cultural tour.

Driving from Bukhara to Khiva through the

Kyzylkum Desert, you have a good chance to spot

some Pandas Ground Jays near the road in the

sand dunes. The preferred habitat for the birds is

saxaul vegeta0on. When approached, they

usually 0ptoe away swiHly before they fly a few

meters.

The area south-east of Khiva, with its extensive

water bodies consis0ng of lakes, fishponds,

irriga0on and drainage canals, has been classified

by Birdlife Interna0onal as Important Bird

Area (IBA). Several globally threatened bird

species and species included in the Red Book of

Uzbekistan occur here. The lakes near the Khans

summer residence, Chodra Hovli, the fishponds

around Ota Xarrat, the lakes near the recrea0on

areas Qora Kol, Eshon Kol and Lake Qalajiq are

other great places for bird watching. Species such

as the White-tailed Lapwing, the Collared

Pra/ncole, the Black-headed Wagtail, the Black-

headed Gull (winter migrant), the Great White

Pelican, the Glossy Ibis, the Blue-cheeked Bee-

eater and the Eurasian Roller are commonly seen

there. On the lake in front of Qalajiq Fortress,

flocks of Red-necked Phalaropes can be

observed. During the hot summer months (July

and August), when many local people visit the

lake and the adjacent dunes, it is advisable to go

birding in the early morning hours before the

crowds arrive.

Pandas Ground Jay

White-tailed Lapwing

Collared Pratincole

Eurasian Roller

41

In the ruins of Qalajiq Fortress and the adjacent

sand dunes, the Variable Wheatear, the Desert

Warbler, the Desert Finch and the Egypan

Nightjar occur.

A very special place for passionate birders is the

cemetery in the village Sayot, 5km east of Khiva.

The trees in this quiet loca#on offer refuge for a

huge breeding colony of White-crowned Night-

herons. More than 100 breeding pairs have been

counted.

During an excursion to neighbouring Karakal-

pakstan, you can admire the birdlife near the

ruins of pre-Chris#an fortresses. In the walls of

the fortress Toprak Qala, a huge colony of Blue-

cheeked Bee-eaters is nesng. The shallow shore

of Lake Aksha is also an ideal habitat for many

water bird species.

Next to the holy site Sultan Uvays Bobo, visited

by many worshipers, numerous birds of prey are

a2racted by the remains of sacrificial animals.

Another IBA is Lake Sudochie about 100km north-

west of Kungrad. You can observe the en#re lake

from the escarpment, walk along its shore or hire

a boat from the local fishermen. Some globally

threatened species of water birds, amongst them

the Dalmaan Pelican, Black-winged Prancole,

White-headed Duck, have been recorded there.

Huge flocks of Great White Pelicans, Great and

Pygmy Cormorants, Greater Flamingos, and the

White-tailed Eagle, can be observed. If you visit

Lake Sudochie you should camp out for one night.

The White-winged Spo&ed Woodpecker

(Dendrocopos leucopterus) is quite common in

the Tugai Forest along the Amudarya River but

also in gardens and orchards.

Desert Finch

White-crowned Night-heron

White-winged Spotted Woodpecker

Lake Sudochie

42

Khorezm is an oasis located between the Kyzylkum and the

Karakum Deserts. Despite the fact that Khorezm is an arid

region, with a long-term average annual precipita#on rate of

100mm and an evapo-transpira#on rate of 1500mm, it is

intensively cul#vated. The first irriga#on structures were

already installed 1000 BC. Between the late 17th and the

early 20th century, a dense network of irriga#on channels

were constructed to distribute the water from the Amudarya

to the dry lands. Since the soils are very salty, sodium flocks

out, le=ng the surface appear as if covered with snow.

Therefore, before plan#ng, the soil has to be leached three

#mes to wash out the excess salt. All the crop is watered by

gravity irriga#on, a method farmers are very skilful in

applying. Drainage water is channelled in collectors and flows

into ar#ficial lakes.

Ploughing and harrowing is usually done by machines. Many

other agricultural ac#vi#es like weeding, harves#ng or

transplan#ng of rice are mainly carried out manually.

The main cash crops grown in the region are co2on, rice and

wheat.

Khorezm is famous for its great variety of sweet and juicy

melons, its apricots, peaches, apples, sour cherries, plums,

pears, pomegranates, mulberries, quinces and grapes. The

main vegetables cul#vated in the region are yellow carrots,

turnips, white onions, potatoes, garlic, maize, tomatoes,

eggplants, cucumbers, pumpkins, cabbages, green peppers,

radishes, beans and sunflowers.

Most families maintain a small garden next to their house.

Livestock, sheep, goats, and poultry (chickens, geese, ducks,

and peacocks) are kept in small numbers for subsistence.

Delicious fresh vegetables and fruit are grown for home

consump#on and marketed on the local bazaars.

The Agricultural System of Khorezm

Salinisation

Leaching of fields

Irrigation canal

Cotton field

Gravity irrigation

43

Fruits of the Khorezm Region

White mulberries are dried

Pears are an autumn fruit

Sour cherries are preserved as kompot

Spring apples are small but tasty

Sweet, juicy melons

The beautiful blossom of the Pomegranate

Khorezm is famous for its delicious grapes

Nectarines

44

Cereals, Vegetables and Livestock of Khorezm

Rice has to be transplanted by hand

On Sundays, sheep are sold on Mol Bazaar

Yellow carrots are more commonly grown

Turp, are green radishes eaten as salad

Rice is one of the staple crops in the Uzbek cuisine

Sunflower seeds area eaten as snack

Dried eggplants are often used in salads

Fresh, tasty green peppers

45

Stopover at the Turkmen Fortress, Ulli Hovli

Tour Suggesons in Khorezm and South-Karakalpakstan

Try the fresh fish at Ulli Hovli Restaurant

Traditional donkey cart at Ulli Hovli Fortress

Folklore show at Ulli Hovli

Turkmen Fortress, Ulli Hovli

For more informa#on on the Turkmen Fortress, Ulli Hovli, and the restaurant see page 22.

46

Day Excursion to Tourist Sights East of Khiva and to Qalajiq Salt Lake

From Khiva there are a number of day or half-day excursion op#ons. Depending on your schedule

and interest you can choose the short (44km) or longer tour (95km) and visit some of the sites

along the route. Driving 10.7km from Khiva towards Yangiariq village, you will pass the walls of

the Khans summer residence, Chodra Hovli. The very peculiar structure, surrounded by a huge

garden, is worth a visit (descrip#on on page 24).

AAer another 4.8km, you can visit a tradi#onal po&ery at Ka2abog village and watch the

masters at work (descrip#on see page 57). Con#nue for another 19.5km towards Bogot. Turn

right at the road sign Qalajiq and follow the tarred road for 9.4km un#l you reach the ancient

fortress Qalajiq Qala. The recrea#on centre at the saline lake next to the fortress offers

tradi#onal health treatments and has a big choice of catering facili#es, which are only

opera#onal in summer (descrip#on on page 27).

On the way back, you can choose an alterna#ve route. Branch off at Yangiariq and follow the

secondary road for 4.1km. On your leA hand side, you will see the famous Muslim pilgrimage site

Sheikh Muhtor Valiy. The mausoleum is surrounded by a huge cemetery. Experience the special

flair of this place (more informa#on on page 32).

Follow the road westwards to get to the village of Oqmasjid, where German Mennonites lived

(1883-1935). They were skilled carpenters, good farmers and introduced new livestock and crops

to Khorezm. Con#nue straight towards Khiva and you will get to the Khorezm fish farms. You can

eat at the local fish restaurant Ota Xarrat. The fish always comes fresh out of the pond. From

your table or tapchan you can watch the diverse birdlife on the water. Return along the tarred

road to Khiva (7.3km).

47

Oungs to the Recreaon Centres Qora Kol and Kharrot

In 2015, two fancy recrea#on centres have been established 7km south of Khiva. Both are locat-

ed near the Turkmen border, south of the Drujba drainage canal, in the Karakum Desert on the

shore of small lakes. Both centres have several restaurants, accommoda#on facili#es and offer a

diverse water sport and entertainment programme for the whole family (see pages 25 and 26).

Water scooter drive on Lake Eshon

Kharrot Touristic Complex at Lake Eshon Ravat Qora Kol Touristic Complex

Sunset in the dunes at Lake Qora Kol

48

From Khiva you can make a half-day excursion to the ancient fortresses in neighbouring

Karakalpakstan. The return trip (220km) takes about 5 hours without a lunch break.

Already 2000 years ago, people who lived in the fer#le Amudarya plains built many fortresses to

defend themselves against the invasions of nomadic tribes. Most of the fortresses are located at

the edge of the Sultan Uvays Dag mountain range overlooking the oasis.

From Khiva, travel via Urgench (27km) and Beruniy (25km) to Qizil Qala (30.8km). You can see

the small fortress from the main road. You cannot reach the site by tour bus, as the access road is

very narrow. Con#nue to the nearby Toprak Qala (2.6km). The rectangular fortress used to be a

city with a palace and a temple. It dates back to the 2nd and 3rd century AD. Look out for

hundreds of Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters nes#ng in the Qala walls. At the foot of the Qala a yurt

camp is offering good catering services. The toilet facili#es are rus#c.

Con#nue via Boston (11.3km) to Ayaz Qala (22.3km) one of the highlights of your fortress tour.

It consists of three fortress complexes. From Ayaz Qala I you have a splendid view of the

Kyzylkum Desert. Par#cularly in spring, the vegeta#on around the Qala is unique (wild tulips and

wild onions, and the strange looking plant called Devils Dung (Ferula). You can have lunch or a

tea break at Aytaz Qala yurt camp.

Return from Ayaz Qala via Boston, Beruniy, Urgench to Khiva (101.3km).

Half-Day Excursion to Fortresses in Southern Karakalpakstan

49

Big Qala Tour

Jonbos Q.

Akshakhan Q.

A one-day excursion from Khiva to six of the ancient fortresses in Southern Karakalpakstan is a

nice change to the Silk Road city programme. The en#re trip is 262km and takes about 8 hours

including a lunch break. The fortresses, da#ng back to pre-Chris#an #mes, were either defence or

refuge structures, royal palaces, places of worship, observatories or mansion houses of feudal

families.

From Khiva, drive via Urgench, Beruniy, Tortkol to Guldursun Qala (98.9km). The large fortress,

protected by 15m high outer walls and towers, was used as refuge by residence of the neighbour-

ing villages when invaders approached. 11km further north-east, Qoy Qirilgan Qala comes into

sight. The fortress was in use from the 4th century BC un#l the 4th century AD. Parts of the inner

eighteen-cornered building, subdivided into many chambers, is s#ll visible. During excava#on

works many ceramic jars and vessels, terraco2a statue2es, ossuaries, iron tools and wall

pain#ngs were found. Archaeologists suggest that the fortress might have been an astronomical

observatory. Con#nue to Jonbos Qala (19.4km), one of the best preserved citadels da#ng back

to the 4th century BC (see page 36). The nearby yurt camp invites for a rest. The next highlight is

the gigan#c fortress complex Ayaz Qala (15.7km) consis#ng of three individual forts. The tradi-

#onal yurt camp next to the fortress offers meals and accommoda#on (see page 35). On the way

back via Boston to Khiva, visit Toprak Qala (31.5km). The huge royal city, built in the 1st century

AD accommodated up to 2500 people (see page 34). You can take a break to dine in the adjacent

yurt camp. Pass the small fortress Qizil Qala (2.6km) and return via Beruniy (30.8km) and Ur-

gench (25km) to Khiva (27km).

Guldursun Q.

Qoy Qirilgan Q.

Ayaz Q.

Qizil Q. Toprak Q.

50

Excursion to the Lesser-known Fortresses in Southern Karakalpakstan

The two fortresses, Gavur and Janpik Qala are situated at

the banks of the Amudarya River. Their prominent loca#on

allowed the control of this important waterway. From Khiva

the shortest route is via Qoshkopir, Shovot to Gurlan

(53.6km). In Gurlan, take the Mangit road up to the first

roundabout (26km). There, turn right and drive to the

Amudarya pontoon (9.2km). The pontoon is not in good

condi#on and therefore not adequate for tour busses. Saloon

cars are able to pass. The sight of Gavur Qala from the river

is spectacular (more informa#on, page 37). From Gavur Qala

a dirt road brings you directly to Janpik Qala (9km). This

huge fortress overlooks the Tugai Forest and the Amudarya

River (see informa#on, page 37). On the way back to Khiva,

turn off aAer 21km from the main road at the Sultan Uvays

junc#on. AAer crossing the railway, turn right and follow the

road to the small fortress Qizil Qala (14.8km). The nearby

Toprak Qala (1.3km) is one of the highlights of the tour. In

the adjacent yurt camp, you can dine in nomad style. Return

to Khiva via Beruniy and Urgench (90.3km). The en#re trip

(225km) takes 8 hours. It is also possible to include a visit to

Gavur and Janpik fortresses enroute from Khiva to Nukus.

Gavur Q. Janpik Q.

Toprak Q.

Qizil Q.

Akshakhan Q.

Gavur Qala

Janpik Qala

Toprak Qala

51

Day Excursion to the Holy Sites in Southern Karakalpakstan (243km)

The tour to some of the most famous holy sites in Southern

Karakalpakstan will take about 5 hours. From Khiva drive via

Urgench (28km) and Beruniy (25km) to Tortkol (28km).

Follow the Boston road for 22.5km to reach the tradi%onal

healing site, Kechirmas Bobo Mausoleum. Norimjon Bobo

Mausoleum is located only 3.3 km further north. The

Mausoleum of Abdulla al-Norimjon is surrounded by a large

necropolis da%ng back to the 14th century. On your way

from Boston to the well-known Sultan Uvays Bobo Complex

(descrip%on on page 33) do not miss to stop a0er 7.4km to

see the ancient fortresses Toprak Qala and 2.6km further

the fortress Qizil Qala (see informa%on on page 34). From

there, follow the tarred road to the holy site in the Sultan

Uvays Bobo range (18km) which is par%cularly visited by

many worshipers on Fridays. Small domes%c animals and

poultry is slaughtered and eaten here. Parts of the meal are

brought to people in need. If %me allows, consider con%nuing 3.4km further up into the

mountains to see the place where the knee-print of Sultan Uvays is said to be v