leena motiramani

PORTFOLIO Leena Motiramani Fashion Technology

1st Year Diploma Programe

Project Report on

Women's Western Wear

Submitted to

Dezyne E’cole College

Towards the Partial Fulfillment for

Award of Diploma in Fashion Technology

As Technical Knowledge Development to

Women’s Wear

Included With Diploma Program Of

Fashion Technology

By

LEENA MOTIRAMANI

Dezyne E’cole College Ajmer

Address, 106/10, civil lines, Ajmer

Tel. no.0145 2624679

www.dezyneecole.com

2014-2015

http://www.dezyneecole.com/

Dezyne E’cole College

Civil Lines, Ajmer

www.dezyneecole.com

The Project of Ms. Leena Motiramani has been Checked &

has been graded as

Thank you Principal (Seal &Signature)

http://www.dezyneecole.com/

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I am deeply grateful to all those whose guidance has been of tremendous

value and enabled me to complete this project successfully

I am thankful to all my mentors of Dezyne E’cole who gave me an

opportunity to shoe my abilities by working on this project on the esteem

organization

LEENA MOTIRAMANI

Diploma in Fashion Technology

1. Fashion as a Person’s Image

2. Fashion Industry

3. Learning Experience

4. Foundation Design

5. Corel Draw

6. Fashion illustration

7. Pattern Engineering

8. Measurement techniques

9. Draping

10.Fabric Manipulation

11.Element and Principle of Design

12.Trible Art

CONTENT

Fashion is a more then wearing good clothes it is about presenting a

person’s image in Society , we generally see people accepting fashion

due to pee pressure, Image in the society and when a person wants a

change to brighten his life. There are many reasons behind what we

wear.

• Protection from cold ,rain and snow :- Mountain climbers wear high –

tech outwear to avoid frostbite and over – exposure.

• Physical attention :- Many styles are worn to inspire “chemistry”.

• Emotions :- we dress “up” when we’re happy and “down” when we’re

upset.

• Religious expression :- Orthodox Jewish men wear long part of their

body except their eyes.

• Identification and tradition :- Judges wear robes ,people in the military

wear uniform, brides wear long white dresses.

Fashion as a Person’s Image

Fashion Industry

Within the sphere of Technology Industries , design technology is

perhaps the fastest growing today. with new technologies emerging

rapidly and industries changing complexion, more and more job

opportunities are up for the taking .It is estimated that India will have a

shortfall of five lakh people in the design sector by 2010-11 but not all

gradates will be employable .Thus bringing the gap between talent and

the skills required by the industry is important. only Today, one in every

four designers is employable and only 10% of the design graduates

manage to get employment in the design industry. Hence the student

should understand the basic requirement of the industry and exhibit that

ability .

This is what I learn here at Dezyne E’cole college creating fashion

doesn’t entail a vivid imagination and instinct for creativity. It also

involve many decisions and myriad techniques , focus on a central

idea. Dezyne E’cole Fashion design made me build a strong

foundation in terms of design sence, Conceptualisation

independent research ,creative application and artistic experience

Learning Experience

9

As a part of fashion industry I am training my self through formal

education in Diploma programme in build with this study. During

the course duration of diploma programme I had an exposure

towards practical working in fashion design.

v FOUNDATION DESIGN

COLOUR INPACT IN DESIGN

Colour is a most vital tool in the hands of fashion designer. It is the

most perceptible and hence is a central to success and failure of a

designer scheme.it is therefore very important designer that a

designer has a full knowledge and understanding of its tool

Warm and cool colours

Variation in Cool Color Blue

Variation in Cool Color Yellow

Variation in Cool Color Red C

OL

OR

S

e

Comparing Value of Colors

The Yellow is lighter

value then Red The Blue color is Darker

value then Orange

The Green is lighter

value then Brown

The Dark Green is equal

in the value to the Brown

Compare the Blue and Red Rectangles to the Grey Rectangles or

either side of each color. Which Grey is equal in value to the color ?

It may be helpful to stand at a distance and blur your eyes. If the

edge between the two area disappears, the values are equal.

CO

LO

RS

Simultaneous Contrast

16-Jun-15

GRADATION

Corel Draw

ILLUSTRATION

16-Jun-15

COLLARS

Bertha deep

neckline Bertha Tie

Bertha Buster Brown

Style

Bertha Knotted

Ends Bertha Yoke style

Bertha - Braid Edge

Trim

Bellow Cargo

Cargo front

Kangaroo Flap Shape Stitched

Patch Button Flap

POCKETS

Layered Sleeve Layered Sleeve Tulip Sleeve

Bushirt

Sleeve Puff Sleeve

SLEEVES

PATTERN ENGINEERING

The Flat pattern method where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat

surface from measurements ,using the ruler and curve and straight

Edges. As a fashion designer I use various tools and measuring

devices to create a toil pattern on dummy.

Measuring Tape Seam Ripper Scissor

Drafting Scale Tailoring Chalk French curve

Tools & Equipment

Pattern Making Symbols

Various signs & symbol of Pattern Making Which I Generally use on

pattern :-

Notches

Notches :-

Seam allowance

Centre Lines

Ease & Gather

control

Dart Legs

Identification of

front & back

Identification of

Joining Part

Zipper placement

Facing

Hemline

Waistline

Shoulder Tip

Sleeve Cap

Jog Seam :-

A jog seam is used to indicate a

change in the seam allowance.

Punch / Circle ;- Dart intake

Corners

Buttons/

buttonholes

Trimming

¼ inch: All faced

areas

Narrow

spacing

Extreme

curve

Sleeveless

armhole ¼ inch: • Side seam

• Waist Line

• Styline

1 inch : Shoulder

2 inch : • Straight

hemline

LANDMARKS

Number refers to both front & back

wherever indicated :-

1. Center Front Neck

Center Back Neck

1. Center Front Waist Center

Back Waist

2. Bust Point

3. Center Bus Level

4. Center Front [Princess line]

Center Back [Princess line

5. Mid Armhole front Mid

Armhole Back

6. Shoulder Tip

7. Shoulder at Neck

8. Armhole Ridged or Roll Line

9. Plate Screw

10.Armhole Plate

Measurements

The flat- pattern method is where the entire pattern is drafted on the

flat surface measurement . Under garment construction we learn

about the measuring techniques on the dress form. That can be

seen here:-

Different ways to taking measurements:-

• Circumference measurements

• Horizontal measurements

• Vertical measurements

Circumference Measurments

Circumference Measurements

SIZE = 34

Round Waist

measurement

Round Abdomen

measurement

Round Bust

measurement

Vertical Measurements

SIZE = 34

Front length

Measurement

Shoulder Slope

Measurement

Full length

Measurement

Circumference Measurements

Horizontal Measurements

SIZE = 34

Across shoulder

Measurement

Across Chest

Measurement

Abdomen Arc

Measurement

Horizontal Measurements

Women’s Basic Bodies Block

Women’s Basic Sleeve Block

Saree Blouse

Kameez (kurta)

Belted kalidaar salwar

4 panel patticoat

6 panel patticoat

Churidaar Paijama

16-Jun-15

GARMENTS

Women’s Basic Bodies

Block

Night Suit

Chooli blouse

Simple blouse

Kameez (kurta)

Churidaar paijama

4 Panel Paticoat

6 Panel Petticoat

Simple Paijama

Haulter Neck Top

Dart Manipulation

Dart Manipulation is a slash spread and pivotal transfer making

technique to transfer dart excess to one location to another for

design variation .It is a beginning of pattern manipulation for

generating design patterns. It require both artistic and technical

skills to manage and control the pattern.

PRINCIPLE 1

One Dart Series

Two Dart Series

A Dart may be transfer to any

location around the pattern

outlines from the designated

pivotal point without affecting

the size or fit of the garment.

PRINCIPLE 2 Added fullness

To increase garment to an amount

greater then that provided by the

dart excess of working pattern.

The length and the width within

the pattern’s outline must be

increased.

PRINCIPLE 3 Contouring

To fit the contour of the upper torso closer then the basic garment

the pattern must be reduced within its frame to fit the dimension

of the body above, below and between the bust mounds and

shoulder blades.

62

Fashion Designing runs the garment from eveningwear to

sportswear, Women’s wear to Men’s wear and Kids wear to

knitwear. Garment Construction is popularly called Pattern

Engineering has a great importance in fashion design industry.

The Companies like van heuson,dockers levis, adidas etc. are

the providers of perfect fit and this is what we learn at Dezyne

E’cole through the art of pattern making.

A slop pattern [ home sewing ] and block pattern [ industrial

production ] is custom – fitted basic pattern from which pattern

for many different styles can be developed.

The Draping method involves creating a Maslin mock up by

pinning fabric directly on a form then transferring the muslin

outline and makings onto a paper pattern or using the muslin

as the pattern it self.

The flat pattern Draping method is the most commonly used

method in Menswear.

Garment Contruction

DRAPING

French Dart

Front view

Side View

Back view

Single Dart Series

Mid Shoulder Dart

Single Dart Series

Front view

Side view

Side view

Single Dart Series

Mid Armhole Dart

Front View

Side View

Back View

Mid Shoulder and Waist Dart

Single Dart Series

Front View

Side View

Back View

Mid Armhole and Waist Dart

Single Dart Series

Front View

Side View

Back View

Single Dart Series

Side and Waist Dart

Front View

Side View

Back View

TUCK DART

Front View

Side View

Back View

PLEAT DART

Front View

Side View

Back View

RADIATING DART

Neck Radiating Dart

Front View Back View

PARALLEL DART

Front View

Side View

Back View

PRINCESS DART

Mid Shoulder Princess Panel (waist)

Front View

Side View

Back View

PRINCESS PANEL

Mid Shoulder Princess Panel (torso)

Front View

Side View

Back View

PRINCESS PANEL

Mid Armhole Princess Panel (torso)

Front View

Side View

Back View

DART CLUSTER

Waist Dart Cluster

Front View

Side View

Back View

GATHERS

Gathers at Neck

Front View

Side View

Back View

GATHERS

Gathers at Princess Line

Front View

Side View

Back View

HAULTER NECK LINE

Front View

Side View

Back View

16-Jun-15

FEBRIC MANIPULATION

For any Fashion Designer fabric first needs to be

prepared with textures and then used for style and

design development. Style requires plain textures

and sometimes textured fabric to be create better

style. Presenting few best ideas of textures which I

learnt at my study of Fashion Design at Dezyne

E‟cole College.

FA

BR

IC M

AN

IPU

LA

TIO

N

TRIBLE ARTS OF ODISHA

ARTS OF ODISHA

The indian state of odisha has a rich culture and artistic

heritage. Due to the reign of many different rulers in the past,

arts and craft in odisha underwent many changes giving an

artistic diversity today in the form of traditional handicrafts,

Painting and craving ,dancing and music.

The official language of states, spocken by the majority of

the people is oriya.

Oriya belongs to the Indo-Aryan branch of the Indo-

European languge family,and closly related Bengali and

Assamese.

The capital city bhubhaneshwar is know for the exquisite

temples that dot its landscape.

Western-style dress has gained greater acceptance in

cities and town among men, although the people prefer to

wear traditional dresses like dhoti, kurta and ghamcha

during festival or other religious occasions.

Women normally prefer to wear the sari (Sambalpuri sarri

bomkai sarri,kataki sari) or the salwar kameez ; western

attire is becoming popular among yonger women in cities

and towns.Sixteenth century witeneesd the compilation of

literature on music.