lifesport's free bike repair guide

8/2/2019 Lifesport's Free Bike Repair Guide

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BASIC BICYCLE REPAIR AND SET UP

Many view the proper set up or repair of

a bicycle as a very complex and timely

task. The truth is that with the right

information, applied the right way mosttasks can be performed quickly and with

ease. This guide is not intended to give

an in-depth view of all aspects of cycling

repair. Rather, with the help of this

manual you should be able to properly

set up your bicycle for longer rides,

increase its efficiency, and accomplish

basic repair tasks with few tools.

sincerely hope you enjoy this manual andthat it will aid in your understanding of

both the sport of cycling and bicycle

repair.

Regards

Sebastian Jozwiak

QUICK START BICYCLE REPAIR

Provided by Lifesport Ltd.

411 Pembina Highway

www.lifesportshops.com


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FIGURE 1A: THE LIMIT SCREWS

There will be two screws here, marked H and L.

The H screw controls the action of the

derailleur at the smaller cogs, while the Lcontrols it at the larger ones. To properly

adjust, shift to the smallest cog and release all

tension in the blot in Fig. 1c, and let the

derailleur collapse. Tighten the H screw until

the center of the wheels are aligned with the

center of the smallest cog. Tighten the bolt in

figure 1c to clamp the cable, and shift to the

large cog. Adjust the L screw until the farthest

the derailleur will move is that large cog. In this

way, the derailleur will never shift the chain off

the cassette, as it is now physically limited to

that range, regardless of cable tension.

FIGURE 1B: THE BARREL ADJUSTER

The barrel adjuster is used to adjust the tension

in the cable that moves the rear derailleur. To

properly set up the rear derailleur, shift to thehighest (smallest) gear, making sure the

adjuster is not fully tightened or loosened. Now

pull the cable through through Fig. 1c with

moderate tension and tighten as in Fig. 1c,

clamping the cable. Now, while pedaling the

bicycle, shift ONE up on your shifter (from 8

to 7, say). The chain will probably not make a

perfect shift, requiring you to turn the adjuster.

While turning the pedals, if the derailleur is not

shifting up the cassette, turn the adjuster CCW.

If there is too much cable being pulled, i.e. the

chain is moving up TWO cogs, turn the

adjuster CW. Repeat this process until smooth

shifting is achieved.

FIGURE 1C

REAR DERAILLEURThe most common part that requires

adjustment. Located on the rear of your

bicycle, this component is responsible f

physically moving the chain from one co

to another, thereby shifting gears. Its

symptoms are common, easy to fix, and

adjustment results in crisp, precise shift

COMMON SYMPTOMS

Poor shifting on the rear shifter

Clicking noises are audible

Chain may get lost (shift off the

cassette) between the cassette and th

frame, or the cassette and the spokes

THE FIX

Adjust limit screws" (Fig. 1a).

Secondly, the tension of the barrel

adjuster on the rear derailleur shouldbe adjusted (Fig. 1b).

Lastly, make sure that the derailleur is

tight to the dropout by tightening the

bolt as in Fig. 1d.


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FRONT DERAILLEUROperating very similarly to the rear

derailleur, the front derailleur shifts the

chain up and down various chainrings at

the crank set. It important to remember

during front derailleur setup that notall

gears are intended forallchain rings.

Take the triple as pictured to the right.

Once properly set up, this derailleur will

not rub so long as an appropriate gear onthe back is chosen.

If riding on theinside chainring, restrict

yourself to only riding on the largest cogs

of the cassette. If riding on themiddle

chainring, restrict yourself to only riding in

themiddle thirdof the cassette, and if

riding on thelarge chainring, ride only the

middle thirdto the outer thirdof the

cassette. Once proper gear selection is

achieved, there will be minimal chain rub.

COMMON SYMPTOMS

Chain wont shift between chain rings

Chain falls off either the inside or outside of

the crank set

Chain rubs on inside of the derailleur cage

THE FIX

Adjust limit screws (Fig. 2a)

Adjust tension in cable (Fig. 2b)

Adjust height and angle of derailleur

(Fig. 2c)

FIGURE 2B: TENSION

After having shifted onto the small chainring,

pull the cable so that it is tight, and tighten the

bolt as indicated in the figure. You may also

use the barrel adjust to fine-tune this tension,

to ensure proper shifts.

FIGURE 2C: HEIGHT A

ANGLE

Adjust the height of the derai

such that when shifted onto

large chainring, there is 1-3mm

clearance from the cage to

ring. The angle of the derai

should be parallel with

chainrings. You can adjust

height and angle by loosening

bolt indicated above and sim

sliding it up and down the s

tube. Remember: When adjus

height, the tension (Fig. 2b) m

be re-adjusted.

IGURE 2A: LIMIT SCREWS

ery similar in operation to the rear derailleur limit screws, these physically

estrict the overall motion of the derailleur, regardless of cable tension. One

crew will adjust the inside motion, while the other will adjust the outer.

here is wide variation as to which controls which, so a simply turning one

will let you know what yours does. Release all cable tension by loosening

he bolt in Fig. 2b, and adjust the inside bolt so that the derailleur is justin

ne with the chain. Reconnect the cable, and shift onto the large chainring

nd small cog. Tighten the limit screw such that you cannot shift the

erailleur cage over the large chainring. This will restrict the chain from

alling off the inside and outside of the chainrings.

Once tightened, shift from theinside ring to the

middle ring. If the chain isnt coming onto the

middle ring, turn the barrel adjuster CCW, to

increase the tension in the cable, pulling the

chain over more. If the chain is pulling over too

much, tighten the barrel adjuster.


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SADDLE ADJUSTMENTProper adjustment of the saddle not only

provides better support and increased

comfort, it also maximizes your stroke.

This increases your overall efficiency,

allowing you to go faster with no increase

in overall effort. There are three key

points to saddle adjustment: height,angle, and fore/aft position. While all of

these elements are important for a

successful bike fit, one should pay

particular attention to height. Far too

many individuals ride with their saddles

too low or too high. This causes un-

needed movement and leads to an

inefficient pedaling action.

HEIGHT

Proper saddle height occurs when your leg is at the bottom of the stroke and your leg isalmost

fully extended. The knee should not lock, nor should your hips have to rock over to one side to

fully depress the pedal. There should be a natural bend in your knee, just as if you were

standing. There is some variation to this measurement; some people prefer to be slightly higher,

others lower. This variation is on the order of millimeters, never as large as centimeters and there

is a generally accepted correct saddle height.

Adjust the saddle height by loosening the bolt in Fig. 3a. Your bicycle may be equipped with a

quick release lever, allowing you to loosen this clamp without the need for any tools. This will

allow you to slide the seat post up and down.

ANGLE

The angle of the saddle should be almost parallel with the ground. Again, as with saddle height,

there is some subtle variation (1 - 2 degrees), but it is never extreme. In Fig. 3b, we see the

progression of a saddle that (a) has a positive slope, (b) has a negative slope and finally (c) the

correct angle. If the rise is too steep, this will cause numbness and discomfort, especially on

longer distance rides. A negative slope will result in the rider constantly slipping forward, forcing

more pressure on the palms and increased neck and back pain. This is uncomfortable and is to

be avoided. A saddle that is almost parallel to the ground is ideal, as it supports the weight of

the rider without causing numbness or putting excess pressure on the hands.

Adjust the angle by loosening the bolt(s) as in Fig. 3c, and simply knock the saddle either up or

down. Re-tighten the bolt to the correct torque.

FORE / AFT POSITION

The fore / aft position refers to how far the saddle is in relation to the seat post clamp. Generally

speaking, with the crank arms in line with the chainstays the virtual line projected vertically from

just under your kneecap should bisect the pedal axle. While this measurement is an important

consideration, it is also suggested to have the handlebars obscure the front hub from your lineof sight when in a riding position. Generally this can be accomplished by changing stem length

or angle. Commonly for the recreational rider, changing the fore / aft saddle position is not only

easier, it also yields a better rider feel and more pleasing result.

FIGURE 3A

FIGURE 3B

FIGURE 3C


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FIGURE 4A: CHECK FOR PLAY

While applying the front brake with one hand,

hold the headset as in the image above with

the other hand. Gently rock the bicycle back

and forth. If there is noticeable movement

between the frame and the steer tube, your

headset needs adjustment. This movement is

fairly obvious and should be easy to feel. If

youre struggling to feel anything, chances are

your headset isnt too loose.

FIGURE 4B: STEM BOLTS

There are commonly one or two bolts securing

the stem to the steer tube. They can be readily

tightened or loosened with a multi tool.

HEADSET ADJUSTMENTProper headset adjustment is necessary

to ensure a responsive ride.

COMMON SYMPTOMS

loose feeling handlebars Jarring feeling when going over bumps

Undesirable play in front end

THE FIX

Check for play in headset (Fig. 4a), then;

If there is play:

Loosen stem bolts (Fig. 4b)

Tighten bolt in Fig. 4c

Tighten stem bolts

Check for play once more to

ensure proper adjustment

If there is no play, nor is i t too tight:

You dont have a loose or mis-

adjusted headset! If there is no play, but headset is tight:

Loosen stem bolts (Fig. 4b)

Loosen bolt in Fig. 4c

Tighten stem bolts

Check to make sure the headset

isnt too loose (Fig. 4a).

DONT OVER TIGHTEN!

In a properly adjusted headset, there will be no

play (as in Fig. 4a), nor will the headset be too

tight. While having no play, a headset that is

too tight will not allow the bars to swing freely

from side to side. If there is too much friction,this will also increase bearing wear and the

headset should be loosened.

FIGURE 4C

Adjust the headset bytightening or loosening

this bolt


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BRAKE ADJUSTMENTBrake adjustment involves proper tensio

of the brake cable and brake pad angle.

Nearly all brake fixes are quick and

simple and can be readily made with an

ordinary multi tool. This guide pertains to

v brake styles, although the techniques

and overall ideas are applicable to road

brake systems as well. If your bicycle is

equipped with disc brakes, please

consult the manufacturers website for

technical information.

COMMON SYMPTOMS

loose feeling in brakes

Poor braking performance

Wheel constantly rubs on brake pad

THE FIX Check cable tension and adjust by releasin

the bolt holding the cable taut on the

caliper, pulling the cable tighter, and re-

retightening the bolt. This should be done

when the brake is engaged to more

accurately judge the correction tension.

Check brake pads for excessive wear

If wear exists, replace pads.

Check brake pad angle (Fig. 5a).

Adjust tension screws on calipers (Fig. 5b).

DISENGAGING THE BRAKE

To open the brake calipers to allow the tire to

pass through, simply move the rubber piece

over and wiggle the metal stop out, as picture

above. This allows the brakes to open and giv

enough clearance to remove the wheel. To

reengage the brake, simply do this operation

reverse.

AN OPENED (DISENGAGED) BRAKE

FIGURE 5A: ANGLE ADJUSTMENT

The angle of the brake pads can be easily

adjusted by loosening the bolt as depicted in

the figure above. Ideally, the brake pads should

be parallel to the rim, and contact in the middle

of the braking surface.

FIGURE 5B: TENSION SCREWS

You can use the small screws to pull the

calipers to the left or right. If one pad is

contacting the rim before the other is, simply

adjust these screws. Tightening the screw will

pull that pad further from the rim. Likewise,

loosening it will move it closer to the rim.


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This guide is provided free of charge and all instructions and methodologies are to be used at the riders risk. Lifesport Ltd. assumes no responsibility for any damages or peinjury incurred from adjustment described in this guide. If you are unsure about any adjustment to be made, please see a qualified bicycle mechanic.

Lifesport Ltd. 1 (204) 475-2352 [email protected] 411 Pembina Highway Winnipeg, Manitoba R3L2E6 www.lifesportshops.com

CLOSING REMARKS

While this guide has been constructed with the best intentions in mind,

an improperly adjusted bicycle not only endangers the rider, but those

around them as well. Please, before you set out ensure that all bolts

have been properly tightened, quick releases tightened, and brakes

engaged. Neglecting to do so needlessly endangers all those involved.

RIDING TIPS AND TECHNIQUE

TIP #1: RIDE WITH THE RIGHT STUFF

Now that your bicycle is properly tuned and ready to roll, be sure that

you are ready for the journey. Proper gear is as essential to enjoying a

ride as having a bike in working condition. No matter what your goals in

cycling are; winning bike races, beating the rest of your cycling group

up the large hill, or just pleasure riding, having the right tools for the job

ensure that you are not limited by your equipment. For general road

riding, this equipment includes some, if not all, of the following:

Cycling shoes with a clipless system

Cycling shorts / bibs

Cycling jersey

Cycling gloves

Water bottles

Cycling helmet

Cyclometer (bike computer)

Cycling glasses (or sunglasses)

This is a short list and does not include more expensive equipment such

as upgrading your wheelset or the like. However, each one of these

items contributes to how you feel about cycling and the kind of

experience you have. You wouldn't go out and run a marathon after only

having trained for 5K, would you? Then why would you go out on a road

bike totally unprepared! You're going to have a bad experience! Things

such as cycling shoes, jersey, shorts, and gloves are essentials every

cyclist should have.

TIP #2: RIDE THE CORRECT GEAR!

Very often, people choose the incorrect gear while riding. Yes, your

cadence can and will vary, however there is an accepted range that is

deemed correct. Usually, for normal cruising on the flats, 90 rpm is the

golden number. This, of course, depends on your riding style and

conditions, and your cadence may fall into the range of 86-95 rpm.

Once you get the feel for riding the correct cadence, it is the important

to achieve this gear in the correct fashion. Riding "extreme" gear

combinations can bend the chain at bad angles, reducing chain life an

performance. By "extreme" we mean the small chain ring and the

smallest cog at the back, or the large ring on the front and the largest

cog at the back. You'll probably get a significant amount of chain rub o

your front derailleur if you ride in these gear combinations. Riding the

correct gear in the correct fashion does not only improve your bicycle'

performance, but not mashing huge gears can greatly increase yourendurance and reduce fatigue. There are instances where riding larger

gears are useful for training techniques or certain other applications,

however these are very specific applications and do not apply as an

overall rule.

TIP #3: MAINTENANCE

Much like having the correct tools for the job, keeping those tools in

good working order will make your riding far more enjoyable. Many

people may not recognize the importance of maintenance or see how

can 'instantly' benefit you. The reality is riding with tires that are low on

air or having shifters that are improperly adjusted or riding with an old

chain does affect how well (and how fast) you can ride. Special

attention should be paid to tire pressure. While it doesn't sound like a

large difference, not pumping up your tires from 75 psi to 110 psi will

greatly reduce how efficiently your bicycle rolls and really slows you

down. Things like improperly adjusted derailleurs and rusty or worn ou

chains affects your smoothness of shifting and can mentally throw you

off when the going gets really tough. The last thing anybody wants to

deal with when they're having a tough time on a ride is to deal with a

shifter that won't stay in gear!

TIP #4: FIND A GROUP

Riding in a group is one of the best things you can do as a cyclist.

Originally, try to find groups that are right around your skill level, and

once you feel comfortable there, find a group the is slightly beyond you

level. Riding with more advanced riders helps you gain knowledge and

insights that you wouldn't otherwise think of. Often these things includ

where to ride, what gear to ride, when to sit and when to get out of the

saddle, and overall technique. You don't necessarily have to join twogroups to do the aforementioned strategt; lots of groups have 'fast' an

'slow' days, so simply find out when the 'slow' or 'relaxed' days are an

join that group then. This way, when you're ready to ride at a faster

level, you'll already have established a friendship with some riders and

you'll be familiar of how they ride, moves they make, and how

comfortable you are with them, which makes a faster ride much safer.

Lifesport is such a club, offering 'faster' and 'slower' rides with a

relaxed, highly social atmosphere.

Visit us at www.lifesportshops.comfor more details!

Lifes ort LtdHappy Riding,
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