maniera magazine vol 1 issue 2
DESCRIPTION
MANIERA 2nd edition bringing you the best of both worlds!TRANSCRIPT
OCTOBER 2012VOL 1 ISSUE 2
CONCEALREVEALLondonrsquos newest grad
endless possibilities
rauL rodriguez
about usMANIERA Magazine is a fashion and lifestyle publication owned op-erated and published by MANIERA LLC Any views opinions or inter-pretations expressed in columns are solely those of the author and do not represent those of Maniera LLC and its subsidiaries Maniera LLC will not accept any responsibility for any views opinions or interpreta-tions expressed in the pages of Maniera Magazine MyManieracom
or other communications
editorial inquiriesAll editorial inquiries including submissions and feature ideas are to
be sent to editorialmymanieracom
business and advertising inquiresAll business inquires are to be sent to our chief operations officer at
promotionsmymanieracomAll advertising inquires are to be sent to
advertisingmymanieracom
visit us in second lifereg and onlineIn-SL
mapssecondlifecomsecondlifeCitizen20Kane11112622Online
wwwmymanieracom
Second Lifereg and Linden Lab are registered trademarks of Linden Research Inc and Maniera LLC is in no way affiliated or sponsored
by the aforementioned party
Read past issue of our digital publication at
mymanieracomarchive
editorialEditor-in-Chief
Thelma Lay
WritersCyntia Aranday Gabriel Berger Janet Serra Thelma Lay
Juliette Lord Sara Lovelace
Layout ArtistSara Lovelace
businessPublisherOwner
Thelma Lay
Chief OperationsOfficer Promotions
Juliette Lord
AdvertisingSalesKenneth Orr
6 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
CONTENTS
18
3632
22
MEAN EXPORTS
CONCEALREVEAL
TO THE BOTTOM OF THE SEA
RAUL RODRIGUEZ
THE CONCEAL|REVEAL THEOREM
Why Americans love lsquoBritish Meanrsquo
A look at Mingrsquos newest line from LFW
One couplersquos quest in the final frontier
Mr Rose Parade celebrates 500 Rose Parade designs
London School of Fashionrsquos newest graduate hits LONDON FASHION WEEK 2012
12RETURN OF THEGIN PALACE
FEATURES
REGULARSON THE COVER
| KAMIL SZKOPIK
Publisherrsquos NoteCreative FocusHealth amp BeautyMani StyleMan StyleInt Travel
10
525456
OCTOBER 2012 | VOL 1 ISSUE 2
58
14
42
Seriously how fast time flies Welcome to the second issue of MANIERA
Magazine It seems like yesterday we were just getting ready to release our first official issue We at MANIERA want to thank our readers for their great feedback support and words of encouragement
I was asked recently ldquoHow would you describe your magazine and your target readerrdquo
Well we strive to feature innovators artists and visionaries and in this issue you will agree mission accomplished MANIERA is about lifestyle culture art technology and innovation Our readers are a mixture of artist art enthusiast and overall people that appreciate the creativity in others
We have many plans on the horizon including contests features and mdash coming very soon mdash you can enjoy both versions of MANIERA and MANIER-ASL on your Apple and Android devices
But for now get your fix between editions by checking out our new website where we give you the current news and trends in both the physical world and virtual one
Stay tuned for more exciting news and thank you
Thelma LayMANIERA MAGAZINE OWNER amp PUBLISHER
PUBLISHERrsquoS NOTE
And wersquore back
THELMA LAY|Monica True
Got something you want to say or suggest All you have to do is send us a letter Letters to the Editor can be sent to editormymanieracom
10 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Return of the GIN PALACE
BY JULIETTE LORDGin is basically a white spirit made from
a mix of grains that can include wheat barley rye and corn The addition of the all-important juniper berries is what gives it the unique flavour Originating in Holland in the 17th century it was originally sold as a medicine but soon became a very popular way to get inebriated particularly among the poor
When William of Orange took over the Eng-lish throne he made a series of laws encouraging the distillation of spirits locally and gin was often given to workers as part of their wages Very soon cheap locally produced gin was out selling the more expensive ale
In 1751 British artist William Hogarth issued his print Gin Lane along with its counterpart Beer Street to highlight the moral dangers of drinking the white spirit As the 18th century progressed so did the status of gin mdash with greater regulation gin became more reputable because with regulation the quality of the prod-uct was enhanced In the 1830s the Gin Palace established itself as a luxu-rious drinking venue for the working man and woman with state of the art plate glass windows and gas lighting
Fast forward almost 200 years and the Gin Palace is making a comeback This time they are glitzy and classy On Sept 14 London saw the opening of the Sipsmith Gin Palace in Palm Court Regent Street open its doors This stun-ning building is the epitome of style and elegance Live jazz summons the glamour of the mid-19th century and the bar men focus on the history of gin each Thursday Friday and Saturday evening from 7 pm to midnight
ldquoEach cocktail will represent a different stage in the evolution of this British classic from 1690 when gin was first born to the invention of the first GampT in 1793 and finally arriving at the 21st
century with the rise of molecular mixologyrdquo The Langham announced in a press release
Sipsmith is Londonrsquos first copper distillery to open for nearly 200 years It was established in 2009 and re-introduced the art of hand-crafted small-batch spirit production in London The classic London dry style gin uses 10 botanicals juniper berries coriander seed angelica root liquorice root orris root ground almond cassia bark cinnamon orange peel and lemon peel
The Ginstitute 171 Portobello Road Notting Hill London boasts Londonrsquos second smallest museum devoted to the history of gin After be-ing educated it is time for tasting and then onto the real fun of blending your own unique gin which you get to take home with you Bookings can be made on their website
A fun and relatively easy way to make your own unique blend of gin at home
is to experiment with sloe gin Sloes are the dark berries of
the blackthorn which as its name suggests is a prickly character and so harvest-ing the berries is best done with caution The taste of
the raw fruit is not pleasant but the humble sloe is mi-
raculously transformed when blended with gin
To make sloe gin all you require are gin sloes sugar a lot of patience and a jar to mix the ingredients in Simply prick the sloe berries with a fork to allow them to release their juices and place in a Kilner jar Pour the sugar over the berries and then pour in the gin How much of each ingredient you use is a matter of taste and part of the fun of seeing which combination works best for you But a good starting point would be 500 grams of sloes and 250 grams of sugar to a litre of gin Close the jar lid and shake really well until the sugar dissolves Store in a dark place and shake daily until all the sugar is completely dissolved After about three months strain the mixture from the jar and bottle Wait at least nine months before tasting
Gin forms the basis of many classic cocktails
VISIT MYMANIERACOM
for a few that you can try at home
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 13OCTOBER 2012
CREATIVE FOCUS
NOT JUST ORIGAMI
2012 Paper Biennial Rijswijk in Rijswijk amp The Hague ndash the Netherlands
Paper is a cheap and accessible material discarded in vast quanti-ties each day Almost all of us have attempted to create art forms from it at some stage in our lives The humble paper airplane or rudimen-tary paper fan paper doilies made from folding and cutting simple shapes from a square piece of paper rows of linked paper figures holding hands and papier-macirccheacute (literally French for ldquochewed pa-perrdquo) masks for the school play
The 2012 Paper Biennial Rijswijk Museum shows just how much can be achieved using the humble piece of paper and shows there is much more to paper art than the well-known Japanese practice of origami
Peter Besrsquo lsquoWhatrsquos Going On Herersquo
Jacqueline Overberg Smith amp Wesson N3 Steyr AUG Z Mauser K98 Stengun Win-chester lsquo73
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 15OCTOBER 2012
The exhibits opened at the beginning of Sep-tember at two separate locations the Rijswijk Museum in Rijswijk South Holland and the Meer-manno Museum in The Hague Netherlands The exhibit features over 20 international paper artists from Japan Spain Israel France and the United States
Meermanno Museum in The Hague focuses on artists working with books and letters The instal-lations range from macro installations such as the Biografias VI by Spanish artist Alicia Martiacuten to the smaller delicate scalpel deconstructed books of Ros Rixon Martiacutenrsquos work is constructed from hundreds of books which are suspended in a mesh wire cage and spew out from the window of the building in a frozen stream into the city street below
The sheer diversity of the work is breathtak-ing ranging from the organic-looking work of Eric Gjerde who uses origami to make sculptures from paper produced by bacteria to the architectural-looking work of British artist Sophie Arup who trained as a structural engineer and fuses her en-gineering perspective and mathematical concepts into her art
The papier-macirccheacute human forms of Peter Bes who was recently awarded the Roland Holst prize for visual arts produce a sense of alienation which is echoed in the thin card sculptures of Japanese artist Katsumi Hayakawa which attempt to sym-bolise the isolation of modern city dwellers
The making of the paper is an art form in itself and both museums will be showing work from the Combat Paper Project who run paper making and art workshops for American war veterans The pa-per they produce is made from their old uniforms which they wore in combat The uniforms are deconstructed beaten to a pulp and reconstructed into paper thus transforming a symbol of their war experiences into a work of art
The exhibits will run until Nov 25 2012 and any artists wishing to participate in the next Paper Biennial Rijswijk to be held in 2014 are requested to forward their documentation a CD-rom with photographs (2-4 MB) of recent artworks resume and printed address to the Rijswijk Museum before Aug 31 2013
Outside the Museum Meermanno in The Netherlands the entrance to this mu-seum is highly distinguishable as an av-alanche of books falling out onto the street suspending just before impact
|FRANK JANSEN MUSEUM MEERMANNO
16 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
OPENING TIMES BOTH MUSEUMS TUESDAY - SUNDAY 1200 - 1700
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK Herenstraat 67 NL-2282 BR Rijswijkwwwmuseumrijswijknl
More informationMuseum Rijswijk
+31(0)70 3903617 or akloosterboermuseumrijswijknlMuseum Meermanno
+31(0)6 23637101 or boermameermannonl
MUSEUM MEERMANNO | HUIS VAN HET BOEKPrinsessegracht 30 NL-2514 AP The Hague wwwmeermannonl
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK
Frits Achten (The Netherlands) Marlies Adriaanse (The Netherlands) Sophie Arup (England) Johnny Beerens (The Netherlands) Peter Bes (The Netherlands)Eric Gjerde (France)
Georgia Gremouti (Greece) Michael Hansmeyer (Switserland)
Katsumi Hayakawa (Japan) Jacqueline Overberg (The Netherlands)
Anne van de Pals (The Netherlands) Katrien Vogel (The Netherlands) Debra Weisberg (USA) Marleen van Wijngaarden (The Netherlands)
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK - MUSEUM MEERMANNO
Combat Paper - Drew Cameron (USA) Museum Meermanno-The Hague
Atelier Pariri - Jeacuterocircme Corgier (France) Laura Behar Ebon Heath (USA) Alicia Martiacuten (Spain) Ross Rixon (UK) Film This is where we live made for 4th Estate Publishers USA door
Apt Studio ndash UK contact Peter Collingridge
List of Participating Artists Biennial Rijswijk 2012Rijswijk ndash Den Haag The Netherlands
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 17OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Britain has been exporting film stars and celebrities to the United States since the early days of cinema Charlie Chaplin and Stan Laurel were the early pioneers followed by an invasion of tal-ent in the late 1920s with C Aubrey Smith George Arliss and then Leslie Howard Cedric Hardwicke and David Niven making their names in Hollywood These early exports portrayed a caricature of the British stereotype which continued through the latter half of the 20th century with the likes of John Mills Sir Laurence Olivier Julie Andrews and the Redgraves playing a particularly American view of the British character
This portrayal usually involved an upper class accent a peculiar stoicism politeness and the ldquostiff upper liprdquo The variation on this was the cheeky cockney who treated his social superiors with suit-able deference without letting his lip quiver an inch whatever was thrown at him
This trend continued into mainstream American television with series like ldquoMurder She Wroterdquo starring British-born An-gela Lansbury to ldquoThe Fresh Prince of Bel-Airrdquo which featured St Lucian-born English actor Joseph Marcell who plays Geoffrey the archetype English butler Although we continue to see this ste-reotype in contemporary media with Hollywood actresses such as Keira Knightley and television celebrities such as Hugh Laurie something else is underfoot
MEAN exports
Why the lsquoBritish meanrsquo have taken the world by storm
18 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Meet the British Meanie exports the English with a bad at-titude who smash the polite caricatures and are taking the United States by storm
Anne Robinson a stalwart of British media and television paved the way in 2001 when US network NBC took out an option on the British game show The Weakest Link While it is standard practice for TV formats to be sold worldwide it is unusual for the presenter to be part of the deal As a result Robinson became the first British woman to host an American game show She had been voted the rudest woman on TV by the read-ers of British publication the TV Times prior to being offered the US contract and became known as the ldquoQueen of Meanrdquo as a result of her pithy one-line put-downs catch phrase ldquoYou are the Weakest Link goodbyerdquo and the silent ldquowalk of shamerdquo endured by the contes-tants
The initial reaction was badldquoWersquove had MTV for yearsrdquo Washington
Post reviewer Tom Shales said ldquoNow NBC gives us SampM TV The genre to which the Weakest Link belongs isnrsquot reality television but humiliation televisionrdquo
Clearly however the taste for rude Brits was not satiated by Robinson as over the last 10 years several more British meanies have been exported The most notable is perhaps British music executive and television producer Simon Cowell who made his name in the UK with the first of his string of talent shows Pop Idol This was followed subsequently by The X Factor and Britainrsquos Got Talent Cowell became famous for his blunt cruel but justified criticisms of the contestants often articulating the views of the audience but with a lack of concern for the devastating impact on the recipient
Cowell premiered American Idol on Fox in 2002 and it has since become one of the most successful shows on American tele-vision He followed this up in 2006 with Americarsquos Got Talent in 2006 and the American version of The X Factor in 2011 He is also a master of the one line put down including ldquoYou sounded like Cher after shersquos been to the dentistrdquo and ldquoShave off your beard and wear a dress You would be a great female impersonatorrdquo
Cowellrsquos rudeness pales into insignificance however when you
Simon Cowell at ldquoThe X Factorrdquo press conference in 2011 in Los Angeles Ca-lif
|S_BUKLEYSHUTTERSTOCKCOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 19OCTOBER 2012
compare him to the master of the lsquoF Wordrsquo British Celebrity Chef Gor-don Ramsay Already a household name in the UK both as a Michelin star chef and with a long list of TV shows behind him including Hellrsquos Kitchen Ramsayrsquos Kitchen Nightmares and The F Word among others Fox brought Ramsay to the USA in 2005 in the first series of the US version of Hellrsquos Kitchen which has proved to be very successful and continues to run He has also had a US version of Kitchen Nightmares Mas-terChef and Hotel Hell Given that Ramsay has been quoted as saying ldquothe problem with Yanks is that they are wimpsrdquo and frequently telling contestants in Hellrsquos Kitchen to lsquopiss offrsquo or worse his popularity in the States is somewhat surprising
The latest rude recruit is ex Brit-ish journalist Piers Morgan Initially famous in the UK for editorial posi-tions in the Murdoch tabloid press most notably the now defunct News of the World which has become syn-onymous with the ongoing phone hacking scandal currently working its way through the British judicial system No stranger to controversy he was found to have breached the Code of Conduct on financial jour-nalism back in 2000 while working for the Mirror newspaper and was fired from the same publication in 2004 when fake photographs of
British troops supposedly torturing Iraqi prisoners were authorised by Morgan
He reinvented himself as a judge on Cowellrsquos Britainrsquos Got Talent and
made himself known to American audiences on the US version Americarsquos Got Talent in 2007 He also won the 2008 US celebrity version of The Appren-tice In the UK his 2009 series Piers Morganrsquos Life Stories saw suc-cess as a chat show host but when he was given Piers Morgan Tonight by CNN in 2011 as a replacement to the legendary Larry King it was something of a
surprise to the UK public Recently when Republican Senate candidate Todd Akin failed to turn up on his show following the lsquolegitimate rapersquo controversy Morgan focused his attention on an empty chair and stated ldquoCongressman you have an open invitation to join me in that chair whenever you feel up to it If you donrsquot keep your promise to ap-pear on the show then you are what we would call in Britain a gutless little twerprdquo
The reason why rude Brits have become so successful in their Trans-Atlantic careers is something of a mystery Perhaps it is the breach of that characteristic lsquosang froidrsquo or that insults are easier on the ear in a foreign accent Whatever the reason it looks like the bad mannered Brits are here to stay
Piers Morgan
|Helga Esteb ShutterstockcoM
20 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Raul Rodriquez was nicknamed ldquoMr Rose Paraderdquo by local Pas-adena Calif press His rare macaw Se-bastian is often with them| LESLIE KAWAI
BY SARA LOVELACE
Across the world thousands of cultures exist each a unique blend of its own different factors The east and the west north and south the UK and the US Hispanic and Asian black and white ndash these distinctions exist all around the world combining together and creating unique possibilities
Possibilities are what the most famous float designers draw upon to complete unique entertaining and simply stunning visual representations of these combinations and this year float designer Raul Rodriguez became part of his own possibility Jan 2 by blending his Hispanic heritage with the Republic of Indonesiarsquos heritage by riding their float which became his 500th Rose Paradereg float design
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash knowing people and knowing the diversity of people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know if I could design like I dordquo
Adding an extra twist to the mix of possibilities in 2012rsquos Rose Parade was Rodriguezrsquos rare Amazonian blue hyacinth mccaw Sebastian on the Indonesia float too
ldquoIt is the 124th year for the parade (in 2013)rdquo Rodriguez said ldquoIt started at the turn of the century and it began as something to do with the fact that wersquore blessed with such beautiful weather usually most of the time and we show off our weather on New Years Day and show the beauty of flowers ndash Thatrsquos how the Tournament of Roses beganrdquo
The Tournament of Roses Parade and subsequent Rose Bowl sporting event is the United Statersquos New Years celebration and is witnessed by hun-
a world of possibilities
a float designer with a love of culture
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 23OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Wonderful Indonesiarsquos 2012 Rose Parade float
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
about usMANIERA Magazine is a fashion and lifestyle publication owned op-erated and published by MANIERA LLC Any views opinions or inter-pretations expressed in columns are solely those of the author and do not represent those of Maniera LLC and its subsidiaries Maniera LLC will not accept any responsibility for any views opinions or interpreta-tions expressed in the pages of Maniera Magazine MyManieracom
or other communications
editorial inquiriesAll editorial inquiries including submissions and feature ideas are to
be sent to editorialmymanieracom
business and advertising inquiresAll business inquires are to be sent to our chief operations officer at
promotionsmymanieracomAll advertising inquires are to be sent to
advertisingmymanieracom
visit us in second lifereg and onlineIn-SL
mapssecondlifecomsecondlifeCitizen20Kane11112622Online
wwwmymanieracom
Second Lifereg and Linden Lab are registered trademarks of Linden Research Inc and Maniera LLC is in no way affiliated or sponsored
by the aforementioned party
Read past issue of our digital publication at
mymanieracomarchive
editorialEditor-in-Chief
Thelma Lay
WritersCyntia Aranday Gabriel Berger Janet Serra Thelma Lay
Juliette Lord Sara Lovelace
Layout ArtistSara Lovelace
businessPublisherOwner
Thelma Lay
Chief OperationsOfficer Promotions
Juliette Lord
AdvertisingSalesKenneth Orr
6 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
CONTENTS
18
3632
22
MEAN EXPORTS
CONCEALREVEAL
TO THE BOTTOM OF THE SEA
RAUL RODRIGUEZ
THE CONCEAL|REVEAL THEOREM
Why Americans love lsquoBritish Meanrsquo
A look at Mingrsquos newest line from LFW
One couplersquos quest in the final frontier
Mr Rose Parade celebrates 500 Rose Parade designs
London School of Fashionrsquos newest graduate hits LONDON FASHION WEEK 2012
12RETURN OF THEGIN PALACE
FEATURES
REGULARSON THE COVER
| KAMIL SZKOPIK
Publisherrsquos NoteCreative FocusHealth amp BeautyMani StyleMan StyleInt Travel
10
525456
OCTOBER 2012 | VOL 1 ISSUE 2
58
14
42
Seriously how fast time flies Welcome to the second issue of MANIERA
Magazine It seems like yesterday we were just getting ready to release our first official issue We at MANIERA want to thank our readers for their great feedback support and words of encouragement
I was asked recently ldquoHow would you describe your magazine and your target readerrdquo
Well we strive to feature innovators artists and visionaries and in this issue you will agree mission accomplished MANIERA is about lifestyle culture art technology and innovation Our readers are a mixture of artist art enthusiast and overall people that appreciate the creativity in others
We have many plans on the horizon including contests features and mdash coming very soon mdash you can enjoy both versions of MANIERA and MANIER-ASL on your Apple and Android devices
But for now get your fix between editions by checking out our new website where we give you the current news and trends in both the physical world and virtual one
Stay tuned for more exciting news and thank you
Thelma LayMANIERA MAGAZINE OWNER amp PUBLISHER
PUBLISHERrsquoS NOTE
And wersquore back
THELMA LAY|Monica True
Got something you want to say or suggest All you have to do is send us a letter Letters to the Editor can be sent to editormymanieracom
10 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Return of the GIN PALACE
BY JULIETTE LORDGin is basically a white spirit made from
a mix of grains that can include wheat barley rye and corn The addition of the all-important juniper berries is what gives it the unique flavour Originating in Holland in the 17th century it was originally sold as a medicine but soon became a very popular way to get inebriated particularly among the poor
When William of Orange took over the Eng-lish throne he made a series of laws encouraging the distillation of spirits locally and gin was often given to workers as part of their wages Very soon cheap locally produced gin was out selling the more expensive ale
In 1751 British artist William Hogarth issued his print Gin Lane along with its counterpart Beer Street to highlight the moral dangers of drinking the white spirit As the 18th century progressed so did the status of gin mdash with greater regulation gin became more reputable because with regulation the quality of the prod-uct was enhanced In the 1830s the Gin Palace established itself as a luxu-rious drinking venue for the working man and woman with state of the art plate glass windows and gas lighting
Fast forward almost 200 years and the Gin Palace is making a comeback This time they are glitzy and classy On Sept 14 London saw the opening of the Sipsmith Gin Palace in Palm Court Regent Street open its doors This stun-ning building is the epitome of style and elegance Live jazz summons the glamour of the mid-19th century and the bar men focus on the history of gin each Thursday Friday and Saturday evening from 7 pm to midnight
ldquoEach cocktail will represent a different stage in the evolution of this British classic from 1690 when gin was first born to the invention of the first GampT in 1793 and finally arriving at the 21st
century with the rise of molecular mixologyrdquo The Langham announced in a press release
Sipsmith is Londonrsquos first copper distillery to open for nearly 200 years It was established in 2009 and re-introduced the art of hand-crafted small-batch spirit production in London The classic London dry style gin uses 10 botanicals juniper berries coriander seed angelica root liquorice root orris root ground almond cassia bark cinnamon orange peel and lemon peel
The Ginstitute 171 Portobello Road Notting Hill London boasts Londonrsquos second smallest museum devoted to the history of gin After be-ing educated it is time for tasting and then onto the real fun of blending your own unique gin which you get to take home with you Bookings can be made on their website
A fun and relatively easy way to make your own unique blend of gin at home
is to experiment with sloe gin Sloes are the dark berries of
the blackthorn which as its name suggests is a prickly character and so harvest-ing the berries is best done with caution The taste of
the raw fruit is not pleasant but the humble sloe is mi-
raculously transformed when blended with gin
To make sloe gin all you require are gin sloes sugar a lot of patience and a jar to mix the ingredients in Simply prick the sloe berries with a fork to allow them to release their juices and place in a Kilner jar Pour the sugar over the berries and then pour in the gin How much of each ingredient you use is a matter of taste and part of the fun of seeing which combination works best for you But a good starting point would be 500 grams of sloes and 250 grams of sugar to a litre of gin Close the jar lid and shake really well until the sugar dissolves Store in a dark place and shake daily until all the sugar is completely dissolved After about three months strain the mixture from the jar and bottle Wait at least nine months before tasting
Gin forms the basis of many classic cocktails
VISIT MYMANIERACOM
for a few that you can try at home
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 13OCTOBER 2012
CREATIVE FOCUS
NOT JUST ORIGAMI
2012 Paper Biennial Rijswijk in Rijswijk amp The Hague ndash the Netherlands
Paper is a cheap and accessible material discarded in vast quanti-ties each day Almost all of us have attempted to create art forms from it at some stage in our lives The humble paper airplane or rudimen-tary paper fan paper doilies made from folding and cutting simple shapes from a square piece of paper rows of linked paper figures holding hands and papier-macirccheacute (literally French for ldquochewed pa-perrdquo) masks for the school play
The 2012 Paper Biennial Rijswijk Museum shows just how much can be achieved using the humble piece of paper and shows there is much more to paper art than the well-known Japanese practice of origami
Peter Besrsquo lsquoWhatrsquos Going On Herersquo
Jacqueline Overberg Smith amp Wesson N3 Steyr AUG Z Mauser K98 Stengun Win-chester lsquo73
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 15OCTOBER 2012
The exhibits opened at the beginning of Sep-tember at two separate locations the Rijswijk Museum in Rijswijk South Holland and the Meer-manno Museum in The Hague Netherlands The exhibit features over 20 international paper artists from Japan Spain Israel France and the United States
Meermanno Museum in The Hague focuses on artists working with books and letters The instal-lations range from macro installations such as the Biografias VI by Spanish artist Alicia Martiacuten to the smaller delicate scalpel deconstructed books of Ros Rixon Martiacutenrsquos work is constructed from hundreds of books which are suspended in a mesh wire cage and spew out from the window of the building in a frozen stream into the city street below
The sheer diversity of the work is breathtak-ing ranging from the organic-looking work of Eric Gjerde who uses origami to make sculptures from paper produced by bacteria to the architectural-looking work of British artist Sophie Arup who trained as a structural engineer and fuses her en-gineering perspective and mathematical concepts into her art
The papier-macirccheacute human forms of Peter Bes who was recently awarded the Roland Holst prize for visual arts produce a sense of alienation which is echoed in the thin card sculptures of Japanese artist Katsumi Hayakawa which attempt to sym-bolise the isolation of modern city dwellers
The making of the paper is an art form in itself and both museums will be showing work from the Combat Paper Project who run paper making and art workshops for American war veterans The pa-per they produce is made from their old uniforms which they wore in combat The uniforms are deconstructed beaten to a pulp and reconstructed into paper thus transforming a symbol of their war experiences into a work of art
The exhibits will run until Nov 25 2012 and any artists wishing to participate in the next Paper Biennial Rijswijk to be held in 2014 are requested to forward their documentation a CD-rom with photographs (2-4 MB) of recent artworks resume and printed address to the Rijswijk Museum before Aug 31 2013
Outside the Museum Meermanno in The Netherlands the entrance to this mu-seum is highly distinguishable as an av-alanche of books falling out onto the street suspending just before impact
|FRANK JANSEN MUSEUM MEERMANNO
16 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
OPENING TIMES BOTH MUSEUMS TUESDAY - SUNDAY 1200 - 1700
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK Herenstraat 67 NL-2282 BR Rijswijkwwwmuseumrijswijknl
More informationMuseum Rijswijk
+31(0)70 3903617 or akloosterboermuseumrijswijknlMuseum Meermanno
+31(0)6 23637101 or boermameermannonl
MUSEUM MEERMANNO | HUIS VAN HET BOEKPrinsessegracht 30 NL-2514 AP The Hague wwwmeermannonl
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK
Frits Achten (The Netherlands) Marlies Adriaanse (The Netherlands) Sophie Arup (England) Johnny Beerens (The Netherlands) Peter Bes (The Netherlands)Eric Gjerde (France)
Georgia Gremouti (Greece) Michael Hansmeyer (Switserland)
Katsumi Hayakawa (Japan) Jacqueline Overberg (The Netherlands)
Anne van de Pals (The Netherlands) Katrien Vogel (The Netherlands) Debra Weisberg (USA) Marleen van Wijngaarden (The Netherlands)
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK - MUSEUM MEERMANNO
Combat Paper - Drew Cameron (USA) Museum Meermanno-The Hague
Atelier Pariri - Jeacuterocircme Corgier (France) Laura Behar Ebon Heath (USA) Alicia Martiacuten (Spain) Ross Rixon (UK) Film This is where we live made for 4th Estate Publishers USA door
Apt Studio ndash UK contact Peter Collingridge
List of Participating Artists Biennial Rijswijk 2012Rijswijk ndash Den Haag The Netherlands
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 17OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Britain has been exporting film stars and celebrities to the United States since the early days of cinema Charlie Chaplin and Stan Laurel were the early pioneers followed by an invasion of tal-ent in the late 1920s with C Aubrey Smith George Arliss and then Leslie Howard Cedric Hardwicke and David Niven making their names in Hollywood These early exports portrayed a caricature of the British stereotype which continued through the latter half of the 20th century with the likes of John Mills Sir Laurence Olivier Julie Andrews and the Redgraves playing a particularly American view of the British character
This portrayal usually involved an upper class accent a peculiar stoicism politeness and the ldquostiff upper liprdquo The variation on this was the cheeky cockney who treated his social superiors with suit-able deference without letting his lip quiver an inch whatever was thrown at him
This trend continued into mainstream American television with series like ldquoMurder She Wroterdquo starring British-born An-gela Lansbury to ldquoThe Fresh Prince of Bel-Airrdquo which featured St Lucian-born English actor Joseph Marcell who plays Geoffrey the archetype English butler Although we continue to see this ste-reotype in contemporary media with Hollywood actresses such as Keira Knightley and television celebrities such as Hugh Laurie something else is underfoot
MEAN exports
Why the lsquoBritish meanrsquo have taken the world by storm
18 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Meet the British Meanie exports the English with a bad at-titude who smash the polite caricatures and are taking the United States by storm
Anne Robinson a stalwart of British media and television paved the way in 2001 when US network NBC took out an option on the British game show The Weakest Link While it is standard practice for TV formats to be sold worldwide it is unusual for the presenter to be part of the deal As a result Robinson became the first British woman to host an American game show She had been voted the rudest woman on TV by the read-ers of British publication the TV Times prior to being offered the US contract and became known as the ldquoQueen of Meanrdquo as a result of her pithy one-line put-downs catch phrase ldquoYou are the Weakest Link goodbyerdquo and the silent ldquowalk of shamerdquo endured by the contes-tants
The initial reaction was badldquoWersquove had MTV for yearsrdquo Washington
Post reviewer Tom Shales said ldquoNow NBC gives us SampM TV The genre to which the Weakest Link belongs isnrsquot reality television but humiliation televisionrdquo
Clearly however the taste for rude Brits was not satiated by Robinson as over the last 10 years several more British meanies have been exported The most notable is perhaps British music executive and television producer Simon Cowell who made his name in the UK with the first of his string of talent shows Pop Idol This was followed subsequently by The X Factor and Britainrsquos Got Talent Cowell became famous for his blunt cruel but justified criticisms of the contestants often articulating the views of the audience but with a lack of concern for the devastating impact on the recipient
Cowell premiered American Idol on Fox in 2002 and it has since become one of the most successful shows on American tele-vision He followed this up in 2006 with Americarsquos Got Talent in 2006 and the American version of The X Factor in 2011 He is also a master of the one line put down including ldquoYou sounded like Cher after shersquos been to the dentistrdquo and ldquoShave off your beard and wear a dress You would be a great female impersonatorrdquo
Cowellrsquos rudeness pales into insignificance however when you
Simon Cowell at ldquoThe X Factorrdquo press conference in 2011 in Los Angeles Ca-lif
|S_BUKLEYSHUTTERSTOCKCOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 19OCTOBER 2012
compare him to the master of the lsquoF Wordrsquo British Celebrity Chef Gor-don Ramsay Already a household name in the UK both as a Michelin star chef and with a long list of TV shows behind him including Hellrsquos Kitchen Ramsayrsquos Kitchen Nightmares and The F Word among others Fox brought Ramsay to the USA in 2005 in the first series of the US version of Hellrsquos Kitchen which has proved to be very successful and continues to run He has also had a US version of Kitchen Nightmares Mas-terChef and Hotel Hell Given that Ramsay has been quoted as saying ldquothe problem with Yanks is that they are wimpsrdquo and frequently telling contestants in Hellrsquos Kitchen to lsquopiss offrsquo or worse his popularity in the States is somewhat surprising
The latest rude recruit is ex Brit-ish journalist Piers Morgan Initially famous in the UK for editorial posi-tions in the Murdoch tabloid press most notably the now defunct News of the World which has become syn-onymous with the ongoing phone hacking scandal currently working its way through the British judicial system No stranger to controversy he was found to have breached the Code of Conduct on financial jour-nalism back in 2000 while working for the Mirror newspaper and was fired from the same publication in 2004 when fake photographs of
British troops supposedly torturing Iraqi prisoners were authorised by Morgan
He reinvented himself as a judge on Cowellrsquos Britainrsquos Got Talent and
made himself known to American audiences on the US version Americarsquos Got Talent in 2007 He also won the 2008 US celebrity version of The Appren-tice In the UK his 2009 series Piers Morganrsquos Life Stories saw suc-cess as a chat show host but when he was given Piers Morgan Tonight by CNN in 2011 as a replacement to the legendary Larry King it was something of a
surprise to the UK public Recently when Republican Senate candidate Todd Akin failed to turn up on his show following the lsquolegitimate rapersquo controversy Morgan focused his attention on an empty chair and stated ldquoCongressman you have an open invitation to join me in that chair whenever you feel up to it If you donrsquot keep your promise to ap-pear on the show then you are what we would call in Britain a gutless little twerprdquo
The reason why rude Brits have become so successful in their Trans-Atlantic careers is something of a mystery Perhaps it is the breach of that characteristic lsquosang froidrsquo or that insults are easier on the ear in a foreign accent Whatever the reason it looks like the bad mannered Brits are here to stay
Piers Morgan
|Helga Esteb ShutterstockcoM
20 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Raul Rodriquez was nicknamed ldquoMr Rose Paraderdquo by local Pas-adena Calif press His rare macaw Se-bastian is often with them| LESLIE KAWAI
BY SARA LOVELACE
Across the world thousands of cultures exist each a unique blend of its own different factors The east and the west north and south the UK and the US Hispanic and Asian black and white ndash these distinctions exist all around the world combining together and creating unique possibilities
Possibilities are what the most famous float designers draw upon to complete unique entertaining and simply stunning visual representations of these combinations and this year float designer Raul Rodriguez became part of his own possibility Jan 2 by blending his Hispanic heritage with the Republic of Indonesiarsquos heritage by riding their float which became his 500th Rose Paradereg float design
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash knowing people and knowing the diversity of people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know if I could design like I dordquo
Adding an extra twist to the mix of possibilities in 2012rsquos Rose Parade was Rodriguezrsquos rare Amazonian blue hyacinth mccaw Sebastian on the Indonesia float too
ldquoIt is the 124th year for the parade (in 2013)rdquo Rodriguez said ldquoIt started at the turn of the century and it began as something to do with the fact that wersquore blessed with such beautiful weather usually most of the time and we show off our weather on New Years Day and show the beauty of flowers ndash Thatrsquos how the Tournament of Roses beganrdquo
The Tournament of Roses Parade and subsequent Rose Bowl sporting event is the United Statersquos New Years celebration and is witnessed by hun-
a world of possibilities
a float designer with a love of culture
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 23OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Wonderful Indonesiarsquos 2012 Rose Parade float
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
CONTENTS
18
3632
22
MEAN EXPORTS
CONCEALREVEAL
TO THE BOTTOM OF THE SEA
RAUL RODRIGUEZ
THE CONCEAL|REVEAL THEOREM
Why Americans love lsquoBritish Meanrsquo
A look at Mingrsquos newest line from LFW
One couplersquos quest in the final frontier
Mr Rose Parade celebrates 500 Rose Parade designs
London School of Fashionrsquos newest graduate hits LONDON FASHION WEEK 2012
12RETURN OF THEGIN PALACE
FEATURES
REGULARSON THE COVER
| KAMIL SZKOPIK
Publisherrsquos NoteCreative FocusHealth amp BeautyMani StyleMan StyleInt Travel
10
525456
OCTOBER 2012 | VOL 1 ISSUE 2
58
14
42
Seriously how fast time flies Welcome to the second issue of MANIERA
Magazine It seems like yesterday we were just getting ready to release our first official issue We at MANIERA want to thank our readers for their great feedback support and words of encouragement
I was asked recently ldquoHow would you describe your magazine and your target readerrdquo
Well we strive to feature innovators artists and visionaries and in this issue you will agree mission accomplished MANIERA is about lifestyle culture art technology and innovation Our readers are a mixture of artist art enthusiast and overall people that appreciate the creativity in others
We have many plans on the horizon including contests features and mdash coming very soon mdash you can enjoy both versions of MANIERA and MANIER-ASL on your Apple and Android devices
But for now get your fix between editions by checking out our new website where we give you the current news and trends in both the physical world and virtual one
Stay tuned for more exciting news and thank you
Thelma LayMANIERA MAGAZINE OWNER amp PUBLISHER
PUBLISHERrsquoS NOTE
And wersquore back
THELMA LAY|Monica True
Got something you want to say or suggest All you have to do is send us a letter Letters to the Editor can be sent to editormymanieracom
10 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Return of the GIN PALACE
BY JULIETTE LORDGin is basically a white spirit made from
a mix of grains that can include wheat barley rye and corn The addition of the all-important juniper berries is what gives it the unique flavour Originating in Holland in the 17th century it was originally sold as a medicine but soon became a very popular way to get inebriated particularly among the poor
When William of Orange took over the Eng-lish throne he made a series of laws encouraging the distillation of spirits locally and gin was often given to workers as part of their wages Very soon cheap locally produced gin was out selling the more expensive ale
In 1751 British artist William Hogarth issued his print Gin Lane along with its counterpart Beer Street to highlight the moral dangers of drinking the white spirit As the 18th century progressed so did the status of gin mdash with greater regulation gin became more reputable because with regulation the quality of the prod-uct was enhanced In the 1830s the Gin Palace established itself as a luxu-rious drinking venue for the working man and woman with state of the art plate glass windows and gas lighting
Fast forward almost 200 years and the Gin Palace is making a comeback This time they are glitzy and classy On Sept 14 London saw the opening of the Sipsmith Gin Palace in Palm Court Regent Street open its doors This stun-ning building is the epitome of style and elegance Live jazz summons the glamour of the mid-19th century and the bar men focus on the history of gin each Thursday Friday and Saturday evening from 7 pm to midnight
ldquoEach cocktail will represent a different stage in the evolution of this British classic from 1690 when gin was first born to the invention of the first GampT in 1793 and finally arriving at the 21st
century with the rise of molecular mixologyrdquo The Langham announced in a press release
Sipsmith is Londonrsquos first copper distillery to open for nearly 200 years It was established in 2009 and re-introduced the art of hand-crafted small-batch spirit production in London The classic London dry style gin uses 10 botanicals juniper berries coriander seed angelica root liquorice root orris root ground almond cassia bark cinnamon orange peel and lemon peel
The Ginstitute 171 Portobello Road Notting Hill London boasts Londonrsquos second smallest museum devoted to the history of gin After be-ing educated it is time for tasting and then onto the real fun of blending your own unique gin which you get to take home with you Bookings can be made on their website
A fun and relatively easy way to make your own unique blend of gin at home
is to experiment with sloe gin Sloes are the dark berries of
the blackthorn which as its name suggests is a prickly character and so harvest-ing the berries is best done with caution The taste of
the raw fruit is not pleasant but the humble sloe is mi-
raculously transformed when blended with gin
To make sloe gin all you require are gin sloes sugar a lot of patience and a jar to mix the ingredients in Simply prick the sloe berries with a fork to allow them to release their juices and place in a Kilner jar Pour the sugar over the berries and then pour in the gin How much of each ingredient you use is a matter of taste and part of the fun of seeing which combination works best for you But a good starting point would be 500 grams of sloes and 250 grams of sugar to a litre of gin Close the jar lid and shake really well until the sugar dissolves Store in a dark place and shake daily until all the sugar is completely dissolved After about three months strain the mixture from the jar and bottle Wait at least nine months before tasting
Gin forms the basis of many classic cocktails
VISIT MYMANIERACOM
for a few that you can try at home
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 13OCTOBER 2012
CREATIVE FOCUS
NOT JUST ORIGAMI
2012 Paper Biennial Rijswijk in Rijswijk amp The Hague ndash the Netherlands
Paper is a cheap and accessible material discarded in vast quanti-ties each day Almost all of us have attempted to create art forms from it at some stage in our lives The humble paper airplane or rudimen-tary paper fan paper doilies made from folding and cutting simple shapes from a square piece of paper rows of linked paper figures holding hands and papier-macirccheacute (literally French for ldquochewed pa-perrdquo) masks for the school play
The 2012 Paper Biennial Rijswijk Museum shows just how much can be achieved using the humble piece of paper and shows there is much more to paper art than the well-known Japanese practice of origami
Peter Besrsquo lsquoWhatrsquos Going On Herersquo
Jacqueline Overberg Smith amp Wesson N3 Steyr AUG Z Mauser K98 Stengun Win-chester lsquo73
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 15OCTOBER 2012
The exhibits opened at the beginning of Sep-tember at two separate locations the Rijswijk Museum in Rijswijk South Holland and the Meer-manno Museum in The Hague Netherlands The exhibit features over 20 international paper artists from Japan Spain Israel France and the United States
Meermanno Museum in The Hague focuses on artists working with books and letters The instal-lations range from macro installations such as the Biografias VI by Spanish artist Alicia Martiacuten to the smaller delicate scalpel deconstructed books of Ros Rixon Martiacutenrsquos work is constructed from hundreds of books which are suspended in a mesh wire cage and spew out from the window of the building in a frozen stream into the city street below
The sheer diversity of the work is breathtak-ing ranging from the organic-looking work of Eric Gjerde who uses origami to make sculptures from paper produced by bacteria to the architectural-looking work of British artist Sophie Arup who trained as a structural engineer and fuses her en-gineering perspective and mathematical concepts into her art
The papier-macirccheacute human forms of Peter Bes who was recently awarded the Roland Holst prize for visual arts produce a sense of alienation which is echoed in the thin card sculptures of Japanese artist Katsumi Hayakawa which attempt to sym-bolise the isolation of modern city dwellers
The making of the paper is an art form in itself and both museums will be showing work from the Combat Paper Project who run paper making and art workshops for American war veterans The pa-per they produce is made from their old uniforms which they wore in combat The uniforms are deconstructed beaten to a pulp and reconstructed into paper thus transforming a symbol of their war experiences into a work of art
The exhibits will run until Nov 25 2012 and any artists wishing to participate in the next Paper Biennial Rijswijk to be held in 2014 are requested to forward their documentation a CD-rom with photographs (2-4 MB) of recent artworks resume and printed address to the Rijswijk Museum before Aug 31 2013
Outside the Museum Meermanno in The Netherlands the entrance to this mu-seum is highly distinguishable as an av-alanche of books falling out onto the street suspending just before impact
|FRANK JANSEN MUSEUM MEERMANNO
16 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
OPENING TIMES BOTH MUSEUMS TUESDAY - SUNDAY 1200 - 1700
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK Herenstraat 67 NL-2282 BR Rijswijkwwwmuseumrijswijknl
More informationMuseum Rijswijk
+31(0)70 3903617 or akloosterboermuseumrijswijknlMuseum Meermanno
+31(0)6 23637101 or boermameermannonl
MUSEUM MEERMANNO | HUIS VAN HET BOEKPrinsessegracht 30 NL-2514 AP The Hague wwwmeermannonl
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK
Frits Achten (The Netherlands) Marlies Adriaanse (The Netherlands) Sophie Arup (England) Johnny Beerens (The Netherlands) Peter Bes (The Netherlands)Eric Gjerde (France)
Georgia Gremouti (Greece) Michael Hansmeyer (Switserland)
Katsumi Hayakawa (Japan) Jacqueline Overberg (The Netherlands)
Anne van de Pals (The Netherlands) Katrien Vogel (The Netherlands) Debra Weisberg (USA) Marleen van Wijngaarden (The Netherlands)
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK - MUSEUM MEERMANNO
Combat Paper - Drew Cameron (USA) Museum Meermanno-The Hague
Atelier Pariri - Jeacuterocircme Corgier (France) Laura Behar Ebon Heath (USA) Alicia Martiacuten (Spain) Ross Rixon (UK) Film This is where we live made for 4th Estate Publishers USA door
Apt Studio ndash UK contact Peter Collingridge
List of Participating Artists Biennial Rijswijk 2012Rijswijk ndash Den Haag The Netherlands
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 17OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Britain has been exporting film stars and celebrities to the United States since the early days of cinema Charlie Chaplin and Stan Laurel were the early pioneers followed by an invasion of tal-ent in the late 1920s with C Aubrey Smith George Arliss and then Leslie Howard Cedric Hardwicke and David Niven making their names in Hollywood These early exports portrayed a caricature of the British stereotype which continued through the latter half of the 20th century with the likes of John Mills Sir Laurence Olivier Julie Andrews and the Redgraves playing a particularly American view of the British character
This portrayal usually involved an upper class accent a peculiar stoicism politeness and the ldquostiff upper liprdquo The variation on this was the cheeky cockney who treated his social superiors with suit-able deference without letting his lip quiver an inch whatever was thrown at him
This trend continued into mainstream American television with series like ldquoMurder She Wroterdquo starring British-born An-gela Lansbury to ldquoThe Fresh Prince of Bel-Airrdquo which featured St Lucian-born English actor Joseph Marcell who plays Geoffrey the archetype English butler Although we continue to see this ste-reotype in contemporary media with Hollywood actresses such as Keira Knightley and television celebrities such as Hugh Laurie something else is underfoot
MEAN exports
Why the lsquoBritish meanrsquo have taken the world by storm
18 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Meet the British Meanie exports the English with a bad at-titude who smash the polite caricatures and are taking the United States by storm
Anne Robinson a stalwart of British media and television paved the way in 2001 when US network NBC took out an option on the British game show The Weakest Link While it is standard practice for TV formats to be sold worldwide it is unusual for the presenter to be part of the deal As a result Robinson became the first British woman to host an American game show She had been voted the rudest woman on TV by the read-ers of British publication the TV Times prior to being offered the US contract and became known as the ldquoQueen of Meanrdquo as a result of her pithy one-line put-downs catch phrase ldquoYou are the Weakest Link goodbyerdquo and the silent ldquowalk of shamerdquo endured by the contes-tants
The initial reaction was badldquoWersquove had MTV for yearsrdquo Washington
Post reviewer Tom Shales said ldquoNow NBC gives us SampM TV The genre to which the Weakest Link belongs isnrsquot reality television but humiliation televisionrdquo
Clearly however the taste for rude Brits was not satiated by Robinson as over the last 10 years several more British meanies have been exported The most notable is perhaps British music executive and television producer Simon Cowell who made his name in the UK with the first of his string of talent shows Pop Idol This was followed subsequently by The X Factor and Britainrsquos Got Talent Cowell became famous for his blunt cruel but justified criticisms of the contestants often articulating the views of the audience but with a lack of concern for the devastating impact on the recipient
Cowell premiered American Idol on Fox in 2002 and it has since become one of the most successful shows on American tele-vision He followed this up in 2006 with Americarsquos Got Talent in 2006 and the American version of The X Factor in 2011 He is also a master of the one line put down including ldquoYou sounded like Cher after shersquos been to the dentistrdquo and ldquoShave off your beard and wear a dress You would be a great female impersonatorrdquo
Cowellrsquos rudeness pales into insignificance however when you
Simon Cowell at ldquoThe X Factorrdquo press conference in 2011 in Los Angeles Ca-lif
|S_BUKLEYSHUTTERSTOCKCOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 19OCTOBER 2012
compare him to the master of the lsquoF Wordrsquo British Celebrity Chef Gor-don Ramsay Already a household name in the UK both as a Michelin star chef and with a long list of TV shows behind him including Hellrsquos Kitchen Ramsayrsquos Kitchen Nightmares and The F Word among others Fox brought Ramsay to the USA in 2005 in the first series of the US version of Hellrsquos Kitchen which has proved to be very successful and continues to run He has also had a US version of Kitchen Nightmares Mas-terChef and Hotel Hell Given that Ramsay has been quoted as saying ldquothe problem with Yanks is that they are wimpsrdquo and frequently telling contestants in Hellrsquos Kitchen to lsquopiss offrsquo or worse his popularity in the States is somewhat surprising
The latest rude recruit is ex Brit-ish journalist Piers Morgan Initially famous in the UK for editorial posi-tions in the Murdoch tabloid press most notably the now defunct News of the World which has become syn-onymous with the ongoing phone hacking scandal currently working its way through the British judicial system No stranger to controversy he was found to have breached the Code of Conduct on financial jour-nalism back in 2000 while working for the Mirror newspaper and was fired from the same publication in 2004 when fake photographs of
British troops supposedly torturing Iraqi prisoners were authorised by Morgan
He reinvented himself as a judge on Cowellrsquos Britainrsquos Got Talent and
made himself known to American audiences on the US version Americarsquos Got Talent in 2007 He also won the 2008 US celebrity version of The Appren-tice In the UK his 2009 series Piers Morganrsquos Life Stories saw suc-cess as a chat show host but when he was given Piers Morgan Tonight by CNN in 2011 as a replacement to the legendary Larry King it was something of a
surprise to the UK public Recently when Republican Senate candidate Todd Akin failed to turn up on his show following the lsquolegitimate rapersquo controversy Morgan focused his attention on an empty chair and stated ldquoCongressman you have an open invitation to join me in that chair whenever you feel up to it If you donrsquot keep your promise to ap-pear on the show then you are what we would call in Britain a gutless little twerprdquo
The reason why rude Brits have become so successful in their Trans-Atlantic careers is something of a mystery Perhaps it is the breach of that characteristic lsquosang froidrsquo or that insults are easier on the ear in a foreign accent Whatever the reason it looks like the bad mannered Brits are here to stay
Piers Morgan
|Helga Esteb ShutterstockcoM
20 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Raul Rodriquez was nicknamed ldquoMr Rose Paraderdquo by local Pas-adena Calif press His rare macaw Se-bastian is often with them| LESLIE KAWAI
BY SARA LOVELACE
Across the world thousands of cultures exist each a unique blend of its own different factors The east and the west north and south the UK and the US Hispanic and Asian black and white ndash these distinctions exist all around the world combining together and creating unique possibilities
Possibilities are what the most famous float designers draw upon to complete unique entertaining and simply stunning visual representations of these combinations and this year float designer Raul Rodriguez became part of his own possibility Jan 2 by blending his Hispanic heritage with the Republic of Indonesiarsquos heritage by riding their float which became his 500th Rose Paradereg float design
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash knowing people and knowing the diversity of people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know if I could design like I dordquo
Adding an extra twist to the mix of possibilities in 2012rsquos Rose Parade was Rodriguezrsquos rare Amazonian blue hyacinth mccaw Sebastian on the Indonesia float too
ldquoIt is the 124th year for the parade (in 2013)rdquo Rodriguez said ldquoIt started at the turn of the century and it began as something to do with the fact that wersquore blessed with such beautiful weather usually most of the time and we show off our weather on New Years Day and show the beauty of flowers ndash Thatrsquos how the Tournament of Roses beganrdquo
The Tournament of Roses Parade and subsequent Rose Bowl sporting event is the United Statersquos New Years celebration and is witnessed by hun-
a world of possibilities
a float designer with a love of culture
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 23OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Wonderful Indonesiarsquos 2012 Rose Parade float
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Seriously how fast time flies Welcome to the second issue of MANIERA
Magazine It seems like yesterday we were just getting ready to release our first official issue We at MANIERA want to thank our readers for their great feedback support and words of encouragement
I was asked recently ldquoHow would you describe your magazine and your target readerrdquo
Well we strive to feature innovators artists and visionaries and in this issue you will agree mission accomplished MANIERA is about lifestyle culture art technology and innovation Our readers are a mixture of artist art enthusiast and overall people that appreciate the creativity in others
We have many plans on the horizon including contests features and mdash coming very soon mdash you can enjoy both versions of MANIERA and MANIER-ASL on your Apple and Android devices
But for now get your fix between editions by checking out our new website where we give you the current news and trends in both the physical world and virtual one
Stay tuned for more exciting news and thank you
Thelma LayMANIERA MAGAZINE OWNER amp PUBLISHER
PUBLISHERrsquoS NOTE
And wersquore back
THELMA LAY|Monica True
Got something you want to say or suggest All you have to do is send us a letter Letters to the Editor can be sent to editormymanieracom
10 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Return of the GIN PALACE
BY JULIETTE LORDGin is basically a white spirit made from
a mix of grains that can include wheat barley rye and corn The addition of the all-important juniper berries is what gives it the unique flavour Originating in Holland in the 17th century it was originally sold as a medicine but soon became a very popular way to get inebriated particularly among the poor
When William of Orange took over the Eng-lish throne he made a series of laws encouraging the distillation of spirits locally and gin was often given to workers as part of their wages Very soon cheap locally produced gin was out selling the more expensive ale
In 1751 British artist William Hogarth issued his print Gin Lane along with its counterpart Beer Street to highlight the moral dangers of drinking the white spirit As the 18th century progressed so did the status of gin mdash with greater regulation gin became more reputable because with regulation the quality of the prod-uct was enhanced In the 1830s the Gin Palace established itself as a luxu-rious drinking venue for the working man and woman with state of the art plate glass windows and gas lighting
Fast forward almost 200 years and the Gin Palace is making a comeback This time they are glitzy and classy On Sept 14 London saw the opening of the Sipsmith Gin Palace in Palm Court Regent Street open its doors This stun-ning building is the epitome of style and elegance Live jazz summons the glamour of the mid-19th century and the bar men focus on the history of gin each Thursday Friday and Saturday evening from 7 pm to midnight
ldquoEach cocktail will represent a different stage in the evolution of this British classic from 1690 when gin was first born to the invention of the first GampT in 1793 and finally arriving at the 21st
century with the rise of molecular mixologyrdquo The Langham announced in a press release
Sipsmith is Londonrsquos first copper distillery to open for nearly 200 years It was established in 2009 and re-introduced the art of hand-crafted small-batch spirit production in London The classic London dry style gin uses 10 botanicals juniper berries coriander seed angelica root liquorice root orris root ground almond cassia bark cinnamon orange peel and lemon peel
The Ginstitute 171 Portobello Road Notting Hill London boasts Londonrsquos second smallest museum devoted to the history of gin After be-ing educated it is time for tasting and then onto the real fun of blending your own unique gin which you get to take home with you Bookings can be made on their website
A fun and relatively easy way to make your own unique blend of gin at home
is to experiment with sloe gin Sloes are the dark berries of
the blackthorn which as its name suggests is a prickly character and so harvest-ing the berries is best done with caution The taste of
the raw fruit is not pleasant but the humble sloe is mi-
raculously transformed when blended with gin
To make sloe gin all you require are gin sloes sugar a lot of patience and a jar to mix the ingredients in Simply prick the sloe berries with a fork to allow them to release their juices and place in a Kilner jar Pour the sugar over the berries and then pour in the gin How much of each ingredient you use is a matter of taste and part of the fun of seeing which combination works best for you But a good starting point would be 500 grams of sloes and 250 grams of sugar to a litre of gin Close the jar lid and shake really well until the sugar dissolves Store in a dark place and shake daily until all the sugar is completely dissolved After about three months strain the mixture from the jar and bottle Wait at least nine months before tasting
Gin forms the basis of many classic cocktails
VISIT MYMANIERACOM
for a few that you can try at home
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 13OCTOBER 2012
CREATIVE FOCUS
NOT JUST ORIGAMI
2012 Paper Biennial Rijswijk in Rijswijk amp The Hague ndash the Netherlands
Paper is a cheap and accessible material discarded in vast quanti-ties each day Almost all of us have attempted to create art forms from it at some stage in our lives The humble paper airplane or rudimen-tary paper fan paper doilies made from folding and cutting simple shapes from a square piece of paper rows of linked paper figures holding hands and papier-macirccheacute (literally French for ldquochewed pa-perrdquo) masks for the school play
The 2012 Paper Biennial Rijswijk Museum shows just how much can be achieved using the humble piece of paper and shows there is much more to paper art than the well-known Japanese practice of origami
Peter Besrsquo lsquoWhatrsquos Going On Herersquo
Jacqueline Overberg Smith amp Wesson N3 Steyr AUG Z Mauser K98 Stengun Win-chester lsquo73
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 15OCTOBER 2012
The exhibits opened at the beginning of Sep-tember at two separate locations the Rijswijk Museum in Rijswijk South Holland and the Meer-manno Museum in The Hague Netherlands The exhibit features over 20 international paper artists from Japan Spain Israel France and the United States
Meermanno Museum in The Hague focuses on artists working with books and letters The instal-lations range from macro installations such as the Biografias VI by Spanish artist Alicia Martiacuten to the smaller delicate scalpel deconstructed books of Ros Rixon Martiacutenrsquos work is constructed from hundreds of books which are suspended in a mesh wire cage and spew out from the window of the building in a frozen stream into the city street below
The sheer diversity of the work is breathtak-ing ranging from the organic-looking work of Eric Gjerde who uses origami to make sculptures from paper produced by bacteria to the architectural-looking work of British artist Sophie Arup who trained as a structural engineer and fuses her en-gineering perspective and mathematical concepts into her art
The papier-macirccheacute human forms of Peter Bes who was recently awarded the Roland Holst prize for visual arts produce a sense of alienation which is echoed in the thin card sculptures of Japanese artist Katsumi Hayakawa which attempt to sym-bolise the isolation of modern city dwellers
The making of the paper is an art form in itself and both museums will be showing work from the Combat Paper Project who run paper making and art workshops for American war veterans The pa-per they produce is made from their old uniforms which they wore in combat The uniforms are deconstructed beaten to a pulp and reconstructed into paper thus transforming a symbol of their war experiences into a work of art
The exhibits will run until Nov 25 2012 and any artists wishing to participate in the next Paper Biennial Rijswijk to be held in 2014 are requested to forward their documentation a CD-rom with photographs (2-4 MB) of recent artworks resume and printed address to the Rijswijk Museum before Aug 31 2013
Outside the Museum Meermanno in The Netherlands the entrance to this mu-seum is highly distinguishable as an av-alanche of books falling out onto the street suspending just before impact
|FRANK JANSEN MUSEUM MEERMANNO
16 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
OPENING TIMES BOTH MUSEUMS TUESDAY - SUNDAY 1200 - 1700
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK Herenstraat 67 NL-2282 BR Rijswijkwwwmuseumrijswijknl
More informationMuseum Rijswijk
+31(0)70 3903617 or akloosterboermuseumrijswijknlMuseum Meermanno
+31(0)6 23637101 or boermameermannonl
MUSEUM MEERMANNO | HUIS VAN HET BOEKPrinsessegracht 30 NL-2514 AP The Hague wwwmeermannonl
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK
Frits Achten (The Netherlands) Marlies Adriaanse (The Netherlands) Sophie Arup (England) Johnny Beerens (The Netherlands) Peter Bes (The Netherlands)Eric Gjerde (France)
Georgia Gremouti (Greece) Michael Hansmeyer (Switserland)
Katsumi Hayakawa (Japan) Jacqueline Overberg (The Netherlands)
Anne van de Pals (The Netherlands) Katrien Vogel (The Netherlands) Debra Weisberg (USA) Marleen van Wijngaarden (The Netherlands)
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK - MUSEUM MEERMANNO
Combat Paper - Drew Cameron (USA) Museum Meermanno-The Hague
Atelier Pariri - Jeacuterocircme Corgier (France) Laura Behar Ebon Heath (USA) Alicia Martiacuten (Spain) Ross Rixon (UK) Film This is where we live made for 4th Estate Publishers USA door
Apt Studio ndash UK contact Peter Collingridge
List of Participating Artists Biennial Rijswijk 2012Rijswijk ndash Den Haag The Netherlands
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 17OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Britain has been exporting film stars and celebrities to the United States since the early days of cinema Charlie Chaplin and Stan Laurel were the early pioneers followed by an invasion of tal-ent in the late 1920s with C Aubrey Smith George Arliss and then Leslie Howard Cedric Hardwicke and David Niven making their names in Hollywood These early exports portrayed a caricature of the British stereotype which continued through the latter half of the 20th century with the likes of John Mills Sir Laurence Olivier Julie Andrews and the Redgraves playing a particularly American view of the British character
This portrayal usually involved an upper class accent a peculiar stoicism politeness and the ldquostiff upper liprdquo The variation on this was the cheeky cockney who treated his social superiors with suit-able deference without letting his lip quiver an inch whatever was thrown at him
This trend continued into mainstream American television with series like ldquoMurder She Wroterdquo starring British-born An-gela Lansbury to ldquoThe Fresh Prince of Bel-Airrdquo which featured St Lucian-born English actor Joseph Marcell who plays Geoffrey the archetype English butler Although we continue to see this ste-reotype in contemporary media with Hollywood actresses such as Keira Knightley and television celebrities such as Hugh Laurie something else is underfoot
MEAN exports
Why the lsquoBritish meanrsquo have taken the world by storm
18 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Meet the British Meanie exports the English with a bad at-titude who smash the polite caricatures and are taking the United States by storm
Anne Robinson a stalwart of British media and television paved the way in 2001 when US network NBC took out an option on the British game show The Weakest Link While it is standard practice for TV formats to be sold worldwide it is unusual for the presenter to be part of the deal As a result Robinson became the first British woman to host an American game show She had been voted the rudest woman on TV by the read-ers of British publication the TV Times prior to being offered the US contract and became known as the ldquoQueen of Meanrdquo as a result of her pithy one-line put-downs catch phrase ldquoYou are the Weakest Link goodbyerdquo and the silent ldquowalk of shamerdquo endured by the contes-tants
The initial reaction was badldquoWersquove had MTV for yearsrdquo Washington
Post reviewer Tom Shales said ldquoNow NBC gives us SampM TV The genre to which the Weakest Link belongs isnrsquot reality television but humiliation televisionrdquo
Clearly however the taste for rude Brits was not satiated by Robinson as over the last 10 years several more British meanies have been exported The most notable is perhaps British music executive and television producer Simon Cowell who made his name in the UK with the first of his string of talent shows Pop Idol This was followed subsequently by The X Factor and Britainrsquos Got Talent Cowell became famous for his blunt cruel but justified criticisms of the contestants often articulating the views of the audience but with a lack of concern for the devastating impact on the recipient
Cowell premiered American Idol on Fox in 2002 and it has since become one of the most successful shows on American tele-vision He followed this up in 2006 with Americarsquos Got Talent in 2006 and the American version of The X Factor in 2011 He is also a master of the one line put down including ldquoYou sounded like Cher after shersquos been to the dentistrdquo and ldquoShave off your beard and wear a dress You would be a great female impersonatorrdquo
Cowellrsquos rudeness pales into insignificance however when you
Simon Cowell at ldquoThe X Factorrdquo press conference in 2011 in Los Angeles Ca-lif
|S_BUKLEYSHUTTERSTOCKCOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 19OCTOBER 2012
compare him to the master of the lsquoF Wordrsquo British Celebrity Chef Gor-don Ramsay Already a household name in the UK both as a Michelin star chef and with a long list of TV shows behind him including Hellrsquos Kitchen Ramsayrsquos Kitchen Nightmares and The F Word among others Fox brought Ramsay to the USA in 2005 in the first series of the US version of Hellrsquos Kitchen which has proved to be very successful and continues to run He has also had a US version of Kitchen Nightmares Mas-terChef and Hotel Hell Given that Ramsay has been quoted as saying ldquothe problem with Yanks is that they are wimpsrdquo and frequently telling contestants in Hellrsquos Kitchen to lsquopiss offrsquo or worse his popularity in the States is somewhat surprising
The latest rude recruit is ex Brit-ish journalist Piers Morgan Initially famous in the UK for editorial posi-tions in the Murdoch tabloid press most notably the now defunct News of the World which has become syn-onymous with the ongoing phone hacking scandal currently working its way through the British judicial system No stranger to controversy he was found to have breached the Code of Conduct on financial jour-nalism back in 2000 while working for the Mirror newspaper and was fired from the same publication in 2004 when fake photographs of
British troops supposedly torturing Iraqi prisoners were authorised by Morgan
He reinvented himself as a judge on Cowellrsquos Britainrsquos Got Talent and
made himself known to American audiences on the US version Americarsquos Got Talent in 2007 He also won the 2008 US celebrity version of The Appren-tice In the UK his 2009 series Piers Morganrsquos Life Stories saw suc-cess as a chat show host but when he was given Piers Morgan Tonight by CNN in 2011 as a replacement to the legendary Larry King it was something of a
surprise to the UK public Recently when Republican Senate candidate Todd Akin failed to turn up on his show following the lsquolegitimate rapersquo controversy Morgan focused his attention on an empty chair and stated ldquoCongressman you have an open invitation to join me in that chair whenever you feel up to it If you donrsquot keep your promise to ap-pear on the show then you are what we would call in Britain a gutless little twerprdquo
The reason why rude Brits have become so successful in their Trans-Atlantic careers is something of a mystery Perhaps it is the breach of that characteristic lsquosang froidrsquo or that insults are easier on the ear in a foreign accent Whatever the reason it looks like the bad mannered Brits are here to stay
Piers Morgan
|Helga Esteb ShutterstockcoM
20 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Raul Rodriquez was nicknamed ldquoMr Rose Paraderdquo by local Pas-adena Calif press His rare macaw Se-bastian is often with them| LESLIE KAWAI
BY SARA LOVELACE
Across the world thousands of cultures exist each a unique blend of its own different factors The east and the west north and south the UK and the US Hispanic and Asian black and white ndash these distinctions exist all around the world combining together and creating unique possibilities
Possibilities are what the most famous float designers draw upon to complete unique entertaining and simply stunning visual representations of these combinations and this year float designer Raul Rodriguez became part of his own possibility Jan 2 by blending his Hispanic heritage with the Republic of Indonesiarsquos heritage by riding their float which became his 500th Rose Paradereg float design
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash knowing people and knowing the diversity of people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know if I could design like I dordquo
Adding an extra twist to the mix of possibilities in 2012rsquos Rose Parade was Rodriguezrsquos rare Amazonian blue hyacinth mccaw Sebastian on the Indonesia float too
ldquoIt is the 124th year for the parade (in 2013)rdquo Rodriguez said ldquoIt started at the turn of the century and it began as something to do with the fact that wersquore blessed with such beautiful weather usually most of the time and we show off our weather on New Years Day and show the beauty of flowers ndash Thatrsquos how the Tournament of Roses beganrdquo
The Tournament of Roses Parade and subsequent Rose Bowl sporting event is the United Statersquos New Years celebration and is witnessed by hun-
a world of possibilities
a float designer with a love of culture
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 23OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Wonderful Indonesiarsquos 2012 Rose Parade float
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Return of the GIN PALACE
BY JULIETTE LORDGin is basically a white spirit made from
a mix of grains that can include wheat barley rye and corn The addition of the all-important juniper berries is what gives it the unique flavour Originating in Holland in the 17th century it was originally sold as a medicine but soon became a very popular way to get inebriated particularly among the poor
When William of Orange took over the Eng-lish throne he made a series of laws encouraging the distillation of spirits locally and gin was often given to workers as part of their wages Very soon cheap locally produced gin was out selling the more expensive ale
In 1751 British artist William Hogarth issued his print Gin Lane along with its counterpart Beer Street to highlight the moral dangers of drinking the white spirit As the 18th century progressed so did the status of gin mdash with greater regulation gin became more reputable because with regulation the quality of the prod-uct was enhanced In the 1830s the Gin Palace established itself as a luxu-rious drinking venue for the working man and woman with state of the art plate glass windows and gas lighting
Fast forward almost 200 years and the Gin Palace is making a comeback This time they are glitzy and classy On Sept 14 London saw the opening of the Sipsmith Gin Palace in Palm Court Regent Street open its doors This stun-ning building is the epitome of style and elegance Live jazz summons the glamour of the mid-19th century and the bar men focus on the history of gin each Thursday Friday and Saturday evening from 7 pm to midnight
ldquoEach cocktail will represent a different stage in the evolution of this British classic from 1690 when gin was first born to the invention of the first GampT in 1793 and finally arriving at the 21st
century with the rise of molecular mixologyrdquo The Langham announced in a press release
Sipsmith is Londonrsquos first copper distillery to open for nearly 200 years It was established in 2009 and re-introduced the art of hand-crafted small-batch spirit production in London The classic London dry style gin uses 10 botanicals juniper berries coriander seed angelica root liquorice root orris root ground almond cassia bark cinnamon orange peel and lemon peel
The Ginstitute 171 Portobello Road Notting Hill London boasts Londonrsquos second smallest museum devoted to the history of gin After be-ing educated it is time for tasting and then onto the real fun of blending your own unique gin which you get to take home with you Bookings can be made on their website
A fun and relatively easy way to make your own unique blend of gin at home
is to experiment with sloe gin Sloes are the dark berries of
the blackthorn which as its name suggests is a prickly character and so harvest-ing the berries is best done with caution The taste of
the raw fruit is not pleasant but the humble sloe is mi-
raculously transformed when blended with gin
To make sloe gin all you require are gin sloes sugar a lot of patience and a jar to mix the ingredients in Simply prick the sloe berries with a fork to allow them to release their juices and place in a Kilner jar Pour the sugar over the berries and then pour in the gin How much of each ingredient you use is a matter of taste and part of the fun of seeing which combination works best for you But a good starting point would be 500 grams of sloes and 250 grams of sugar to a litre of gin Close the jar lid and shake really well until the sugar dissolves Store in a dark place and shake daily until all the sugar is completely dissolved After about three months strain the mixture from the jar and bottle Wait at least nine months before tasting
Gin forms the basis of many classic cocktails
VISIT MYMANIERACOM
for a few that you can try at home
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 13OCTOBER 2012
CREATIVE FOCUS
NOT JUST ORIGAMI
2012 Paper Biennial Rijswijk in Rijswijk amp The Hague ndash the Netherlands
Paper is a cheap and accessible material discarded in vast quanti-ties each day Almost all of us have attempted to create art forms from it at some stage in our lives The humble paper airplane or rudimen-tary paper fan paper doilies made from folding and cutting simple shapes from a square piece of paper rows of linked paper figures holding hands and papier-macirccheacute (literally French for ldquochewed pa-perrdquo) masks for the school play
The 2012 Paper Biennial Rijswijk Museum shows just how much can be achieved using the humble piece of paper and shows there is much more to paper art than the well-known Japanese practice of origami
Peter Besrsquo lsquoWhatrsquos Going On Herersquo
Jacqueline Overberg Smith amp Wesson N3 Steyr AUG Z Mauser K98 Stengun Win-chester lsquo73
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 15OCTOBER 2012
The exhibits opened at the beginning of Sep-tember at two separate locations the Rijswijk Museum in Rijswijk South Holland and the Meer-manno Museum in The Hague Netherlands The exhibit features over 20 international paper artists from Japan Spain Israel France and the United States
Meermanno Museum in The Hague focuses on artists working with books and letters The instal-lations range from macro installations such as the Biografias VI by Spanish artist Alicia Martiacuten to the smaller delicate scalpel deconstructed books of Ros Rixon Martiacutenrsquos work is constructed from hundreds of books which are suspended in a mesh wire cage and spew out from the window of the building in a frozen stream into the city street below
The sheer diversity of the work is breathtak-ing ranging from the organic-looking work of Eric Gjerde who uses origami to make sculptures from paper produced by bacteria to the architectural-looking work of British artist Sophie Arup who trained as a structural engineer and fuses her en-gineering perspective and mathematical concepts into her art
The papier-macirccheacute human forms of Peter Bes who was recently awarded the Roland Holst prize for visual arts produce a sense of alienation which is echoed in the thin card sculptures of Japanese artist Katsumi Hayakawa which attempt to sym-bolise the isolation of modern city dwellers
The making of the paper is an art form in itself and both museums will be showing work from the Combat Paper Project who run paper making and art workshops for American war veterans The pa-per they produce is made from their old uniforms which they wore in combat The uniforms are deconstructed beaten to a pulp and reconstructed into paper thus transforming a symbol of their war experiences into a work of art
The exhibits will run until Nov 25 2012 and any artists wishing to participate in the next Paper Biennial Rijswijk to be held in 2014 are requested to forward their documentation a CD-rom with photographs (2-4 MB) of recent artworks resume and printed address to the Rijswijk Museum before Aug 31 2013
Outside the Museum Meermanno in The Netherlands the entrance to this mu-seum is highly distinguishable as an av-alanche of books falling out onto the street suspending just before impact
|FRANK JANSEN MUSEUM MEERMANNO
16 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
OPENING TIMES BOTH MUSEUMS TUESDAY - SUNDAY 1200 - 1700
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK Herenstraat 67 NL-2282 BR Rijswijkwwwmuseumrijswijknl
More informationMuseum Rijswijk
+31(0)70 3903617 or akloosterboermuseumrijswijknlMuseum Meermanno
+31(0)6 23637101 or boermameermannonl
MUSEUM MEERMANNO | HUIS VAN HET BOEKPrinsessegracht 30 NL-2514 AP The Hague wwwmeermannonl
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK
Frits Achten (The Netherlands) Marlies Adriaanse (The Netherlands) Sophie Arup (England) Johnny Beerens (The Netherlands) Peter Bes (The Netherlands)Eric Gjerde (France)
Georgia Gremouti (Greece) Michael Hansmeyer (Switserland)
Katsumi Hayakawa (Japan) Jacqueline Overberg (The Netherlands)
Anne van de Pals (The Netherlands) Katrien Vogel (The Netherlands) Debra Weisberg (USA) Marleen van Wijngaarden (The Netherlands)
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK - MUSEUM MEERMANNO
Combat Paper - Drew Cameron (USA) Museum Meermanno-The Hague
Atelier Pariri - Jeacuterocircme Corgier (France) Laura Behar Ebon Heath (USA) Alicia Martiacuten (Spain) Ross Rixon (UK) Film This is where we live made for 4th Estate Publishers USA door
Apt Studio ndash UK contact Peter Collingridge
List of Participating Artists Biennial Rijswijk 2012Rijswijk ndash Den Haag The Netherlands
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 17OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Britain has been exporting film stars and celebrities to the United States since the early days of cinema Charlie Chaplin and Stan Laurel were the early pioneers followed by an invasion of tal-ent in the late 1920s with C Aubrey Smith George Arliss and then Leslie Howard Cedric Hardwicke and David Niven making their names in Hollywood These early exports portrayed a caricature of the British stereotype which continued through the latter half of the 20th century with the likes of John Mills Sir Laurence Olivier Julie Andrews and the Redgraves playing a particularly American view of the British character
This portrayal usually involved an upper class accent a peculiar stoicism politeness and the ldquostiff upper liprdquo The variation on this was the cheeky cockney who treated his social superiors with suit-able deference without letting his lip quiver an inch whatever was thrown at him
This trend continued into mainstream American television with series like ldquoMurder She Wroterdquo starring British-born An-gela Lansbury to ldquoThe Fresh Prince of Bel-Airrdquo which featured St Lucian-born English actor Joseph Marcell who plays Geoffrey the archetype English butler Although we continue to see this ste-reotype in contemporary media with Hollywood actresses such as Keira Knightley and television celebrities such as Hugh Laurie something else is underfoot
MEAN exports
Why the lsquoBritish meanrsquo have taken the world by storm
18 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Meet the British Meanie exports the English with a bad at-titude who smash the polite caricatures and are taking the United States by storm
Anne Robinson a stalwart of British media and television paved the way in 2001 when US network NBC took out an option on the British game show The Weakest Link While it is standard practice for TV formats to be sold worldwide it is unusual for the presenter to be part of the deal As a result Robinson became the first British woman to host an American game show She had been voted the rudest woman on TV by the read-ers of British publication the TV Times prior to being offered the US contract and became known as the ldquoQueen of Meanrdquo as a result of her pithy one-line put-downs catch phrase ldquoYou are the Weakest Link goodbyerdquo and the silent ldquowalk of shamerdquo endured by the contes-tants
The initial reaction was badldquoWersquove had MTV for yearsrdquo Washington
Post reviewer Tom Shales said ldquoNow NBC gives us SampM TV The genre to which the Weakest Link belongs isnrsquot reality television but humiliation televisionrdquo
Clearly however the taste for rude Brits was not satiated by Robinson as over the last 10 years several more British meanies have been exported The most notable is perhaps British music executive and television producer Simon Cowell who made his name in the UK with the first of his string of talent shows Pop Idol This was followed subsequently by The X Factor and Britainrsquos Got Talent Cowell became famous for his blunt cruel but justified criticisms of the contestants often articulating the views of the audience but with a lack of concern for the devastating impact on the recipient
Cowell premiered American Idol on Fox in 2002 and it has since become one of the most successful shows on American tele-vision He followed this up in 2006 with Americarsquos Got Talent in 2006 and the American version of The X Factor in 2011 He is also a master of the one line put down including ldquoYou sounded like Cher after shersquos been to the dentistrdquo and ldquoShave off your beard and wear a dress You would be a great female impersonatorrdquo
Cowellrsquos rudeness pales into insignificance however when you
Simon Cowell at ldquoThe X Factorrdquo press conference in 2011 in Los Angeles Ca-lif
|S_BUKLEYSHUTTERSTOCKCOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 19OCTOBER 2012
compare him to the master of the lsquoF Wordrsquo British Celebrity Chef Gor-don Ramsay Already a household name in the UK both as a Michelin star chef and with a long list of TV shows behind him including Hellrsquos Kitchen Ramsayrsquos Kitchen Nightmares and The F Word among others Fox brought Ramsay to the USA in 2005 in the first series of the US version of Hellrsquos Kitchen which has proved to be very successful and continues to run He has also had a US version of Kitchen Nightmares Mas-terChef and Hotel Hell Given that Ramsay has been quoted as saying ldquothe problem with Yanks is that they are wimpsrdquo and frequently telling contestants in Hellrsquos Kitchen to lsquopiss offrsquo or worse his popularity in the States is somewhat surprising
The latest rude recruit is ex Brit-ish journalist Piers Morgan Initially famous in the UK for editorial posi-tions in the Murdoch tabloid press most notably the now defunct News of the World which has become syn-onymous with the ongoing phone hacking scandal currently working its way through the British judicial system No stranger to controversy he was found to have breached the Code of Conduct on financial jour-nalism back in 2000 while working for the Mirror newspaper and was fired from the same publication in 2004 when fake photographs of
British troops supposedly torturing Iraqi prisoners were authorised by Morgan
He reinvented himself as a judge on Cowellrsquos Britainrsquos Got Talent and
made himself known to American audiences on the US version Americarsquos Got Talent in 2007 He also won the 2008 US celebrity version of The Appren-tice In the UK his 2009 series Piers Morganrsquos Life Stories saw suc-cess as a chat show host but when he was given Piers Morgan Tonight by CNN in 2011 as a replacement to the legendary Larry King it was something of a
surprise to the UK public Recently when Republican Senate candidate Todd Akin failed to turn up on his show following the lsquolegitimate rapersquo controversy Morgan focused his attention on an empty chair and stated ldquoCongressman you have an open invitation to join me in that chair whenever you feel up to it If you donrsquot keep your promise to ap-pear on the show then you are what we would call in Britain a gutless little twerprdquo
The reason why rude Brits have become so successful in their Trans-Atlantic careers is something of a mystery Perhaps it is the breach of that characteristic lsquosang froidrsquo or that insults are easier on the ear in a foreign accent Whatever the reason it looks like the bad mannered Brits are here to stay
Piers Morgan
|Helga Esteb ShutterstockcoM
20 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Raul Rodriquez was nicknamed ldquoMr Rose Paraderdquo by local Pas-adena Calif press His rare macaw Se-bastian is often with them| LESLIE KAWAI
BY SARA LOVELACE
Across the world thousands of cultures exist each a unique blend of its own different factors The east and the west north and south the UK and the US Hispanic and Asian black and white ndash these distinctions exist all around the world combining together and creating unique possibilities
Possibilities are what the most famous float designers draw upon to complete unique entertaining and simply stunning visual representations of these combinations and this year float designer Raul Rodriguez became part of his own possibility Jan 2 by blending his Hispanic heritage with the Republic of Indonesiarsquos heritage by riding their float which became his 500th Rose Paradereg float design
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash knowing people and knowing the diversity of people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know if I could design like I dordquo
Adding an extra twist to the mix of possibilities in 2012rsquos Rose Parade was Rodriguezrsquos rare Amazonian blue hyacinth mccaw Sebastian on the Indonesia float too
ldquoIt is the 124th year for the parade (in 2013)rdquo Rodriguez said ldquoIt started at the turn of the century and it began as something to do with the fact that wersquore blessed with such beautiful weather usually most of the time and we show off our weather on New Years Day and show the beauty of flowers ndash Thatrsquos how the Tournament of Roses beganrdquo
The Tournament of Roses Parade and subsequent Rose Bowl sporting event is the United Statersquos New Years celebration and is witnessed by hun-
a world of possibilities
a float designer with a love of culture
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 23OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Wonderful Indonesiarsquos 2012 Rose Parade float
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORDGin is basically a white spirit made from
a mix of grains that can include wheat barley rye and corn The addition of the all-important juniper berries is what gives it the unique flavour Originating in Holland in the 17th century it was originally sold as a medicine but soon became a very popular way to get inebriated particularly among the poor
When William of Orange took over the Eng-lish throne he made a series of laws encouraging the distillation of spirits locally and gin was often given to workers as part of their wages Very soon cheap locally produced gin was out selling the more expensive ale
In 1751 British artist William Hogarth issued his print Gin Lane along with its counterpart Beer Street to highlight the moral dangers of drinking the white spirit As the 18th century progressed so did the status of gin mdash with greater regulation gin became more reputable because with regulation the quality of the prod-uct was enhanced In the 1830s the Gin Palace established itself as a luxu-rious drinking venue for the working man and woman with state of the art plate glass windows and gas lighting
Fast forward almost 200 years and the Gin Palace is making a comeback This time they are glitzy and classy On Sept 14 London saw the opening of the Sipsmith Gin Palace in Palm Court Regent Street open its doors This stun-ning building is the epitome of style and elegance Live jazz summons the glamour of the mid-19th century and the bar men focus on the history of gin each Thursday Friday and Saturday evening from 7 pm to midnight
ldquoEach cocktail will represent a different stage in the evolution of this British classic from 1690 when gin was first born to the invention of the first GampT in 1793 and finally arriving at the 21st
century with the rise of molecular mixologyrdquo The Langham announced in a press release
Sipsmith is Londonrsquos first copper distillery to open for nearly 200 years It was established in 2009 and re-introduced the art of hand-crafted small-batch spirit production in London The classic London dry style gin uses 10 botanicals juniper berries coriander seed angelica root liquorice root orris root ground almond cassia bark cinnamon orange peel and lemon peel
The Ginstitute 171 Portobello Road Notting Hill London boasts Londonrsquos second smallest museum devoted to the history of gin After be-ing educated it is time for tasting and then onto the real fun of blending your own unique gin which you get to take home with you Bookings can be made on their website
A fun and relatively easy way to make your own unique blend of gin at home
is to experiment with sloe gin Sloes are the dark berries of
the blackthorn which as its name suggests is a prickly character and so harvest-ing the berries is best done with caution The taste of
the raw fruit is not pleasant but the humble sloe is mi-
raculously transformed when blended with gin
To make sloe gin all you require are gin sloes sugar a lot of patience and a jar to mix the ingredients in Simply prick the sloe berries with a fork to allow them to release their juices and place in a Kilner jar Pour the sugar over the berries and then pour in the gin How much of each ingredient you use is a matter of taste and part of the fun of seeing which combination works best for you But a good starting point would be 500 grams of sloes and 250 grams of sugar to a litre of gin Close the jar lid and shake really well until the sugar dissolves Store in a dark place and shake daily until all the sugar is completely dissolved After about three months strain the mixture from the jar and bottle Wait at least nine months before tasting
Gin forms the basis of many classic cocktails
VISIT MYMANIERACOM
for a few that you can try at home
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 13OCTOBER 2012
CREATIVE FOCUS
NOT JUST ORIGAMI
2012 Paper Biennial Rijswijk in Rijswijk amp The Hague ndash the Netherlands
Paper is a cheap and accessible material discarded in vast quanti-ties each day Almost all of us have attempted to create art forms from it at some stage in our lives The humble paper airplane or rudimen-tary paper fan paper doilies made from folding and cutting simple shapes from a square piece of paper rows of linked paper figures holding hands and papier-macirccheacute (literally French for ldquochewed pa-perrdquo) masks for the school play
The 2012 Paper Biennial Rijswijk Museum shows just how much can be achieved using the humble piece of paper and shows there is much more to paper art than the well-known Japanese practice of origami
Peter Besrsquo lsquoWhatrsquos Going On Herersquo
Jacqueline Overberg Smith amp Wesson N3 Steyr AUG Z Mauser K98 Stengun Win-chester lsquo73
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 15OCTOBER 2012
The exhibits opened at the beginning of Sep-tember at two separate locations the Rijswijk Museum in Rijswijk South Holland and the Meer-manno Museum in The Hague Netherlands The exhibit features over 20 international paper artists from Japan Spain Israel France and the United States
Meermanno Museum in The Hague focuses on artists working with books and letters The instal-lations range from macro installations such as the Biografias VI by Spanish artist Alicia Martiacuten to the smaller delicate scalpel deconstructed books of Ros Rixon Martiacutenrsquos work is constructed from hundreds of books which are suspended in a mesh wire cage and spew out from the window of the building in a frozen stream into the city street below
The sheer diversity of the work is breathtak-ing ranging from the organic-looking work of Eric Gjerde who uses origami to make sculptures from paper produced by bacteria to the architectural-looking work of British artist Sophie Arup who trained as a structural engineer and fuses her en-gineering perspective and mathematical concepts into her art
The papier-macirccheacute human forms of Peter Bes who was recently awarded the Roland Holst prize for visual arts produce a sense of alienation which is echoed in the thin card sculptures of Japanese artist Katsumi Hayakawa which attempt to sym-bolise the isolation of modern city dwellers
The making of the paper is an art form in itself and both museums will be showing work from the Combat Paper Project who run paper making and art workshops for American war veterans The pa-per they produce is made from their old uniforms which they wore in combat The uniforms are deconstructed beaten to a pulp and reconstructed into paper thus transforming a symbol of their war experiences into a work of art
The exhibits will run until Nov 25 2012 and any artists wishing to participate in the next Paper Biennial Rijswijk to be held in 2014 are requested to forward their documentation a CD-rom with photographs (2-4 MB) of recent artworks resume and printed address to the Rijswijk Museum before Aug 31 2013
Outside the Museum Meermanno in The Netherlands the entrance to this mu-seum is highly distinguishable as an av-alanche of books falling out onto the street suspending just before impact
|FRANK JANSEN MUSEUM MEERMANNO
16 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
OPENING TIMES BOTH MUSEUMS TUESDAY - SUNDAY 1200 - 1700
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK Herenstraat 67 NL-2282 BR Rijswijkwwwmuseumrijswijknl
More informationMuseum Rijswijk
+31(0)70 3903617 or akloosterboermuseumrijswijknlMuseum Meermanno
+31(0)6 23637101 or boermameermannonl
MUSEUM MEERMANNO | HUIS VAN HET BOEKPrinsessegracht 30 NL-2514 AP The Hague wwwmeermannonl
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK
Frits Achten (The Netherlands) Marlies Adriaanse (The Netherlands) Sophie Arup (England) Johnny Beerens (The Netherlands) Peter Bes (The Netherlands)Eric Gjerde (France)
Georgia Gremouti (Greece) Michael Hansmeyer (Switserland)
Katsumi Hayakawa (Japan) Jacqueline Overberg (The Netherlands)
Anne van de Pals (The Netherlands) Katrien Vogel (The Netherlands) Debra Weisberg (USA) Marleen van Wijngaarden (The Netherlands)
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK - MUSEUM MEERMANNO
Combat Paper - Drew Cameron (USA) Museum Meermanno-The Hague
Atelier Pariri - Jeacuterocircme Corgier (France) Laura Behar Ebon Heath (USA) Alicia Martiacuten (Spain) Ross Rixon (UK) Film This is where we live made for 4th Estate Publishers USA door
Apt Studio ndash UK contact Peter Collingridge
List of Participating Artists Biennial Rijswijk 2012Rijswijk ndash Den Haag The Netherlands
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 17OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Britain has been exporting film stars and celebrities to the United States since the early days of cinema Charlie Chaplin and Stan Laurel were the early pioneers followed by an invasion of tal-ent in the late 1920s with C Aubrey Smith George Arliss and then Leslie Howard Cedric Hardwicke and David Niven making their names in Hollywood These early exports portrayed a caricature of the British stereotype which continued through the latter half of the 20th century with the likes of John Mills Sir Laurence Olivier Julie Andrews and the Redgraves playing a particularly American view of the British character
This portrayal usually involved an upper class accent a peculiar stoicism politeness and the ldquostiff upper liprdquo The variation on this was the cheeky cockney who treated his social superiors with suit-able deference without letting his lip quiver an inch whatever was thrown at him
This trend continued into mainstream American television with series like ldquoMurder She Wroterdquo starring British-born An-gela Lansbury to ldquoThe Fresh Prince of Bel-Airrdquo which featured St Lucian-born English actor Joseph Marcell who plays Geoffrey the archetype English butler Although we continue to see this ste-reotype in contemporary media with Hollywood actresses such as Keira Knightley and television celebrities such as Hugh Laurie something else is underfoot
MEAN exports
Why the lsquoBritish meanrsquo have taken the world by storm
18 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Meet the British Meanie exports the English with a bad at-titude who smash the polite caricatures and are taking the United States by storm
Anne Robinson a stalwart of British media and television paved the way in 2001 when US network NBC took out an option on the British game show The Weakest Link While it is standard practice for TV formats to be sold worldwide it is unusual for the presenter to be part of the deal As a result Robinson became the first British woman to host an American game show She had been voted the rudest woman on TV by the read-ers of British publication the TV Times prior to being offered the US contract and became known as the ldquoQueen of Meanrdquo as a result of her pithy one-line put-downs catch phrase ldquoYou are the Weakest Link goodbyerdquo and the silent ldquowalk of shamerdquo endured by the contes-tants
The initial reaction was badldquoWersquove had MTV for yearsrdquo Washington
Post reviewer Tom Shales said ldquoNow NBC gives us SampM TV The genre to which the Weakest Link belongs isnrsquot reality television but humiliation televisionrdquo
Clearly however the taste for rude Brits was not satiated by Robinson as over the last 10 years several more British meanies have been exported The most notable is perhaps British music executive and television producer Simon Cowell who made his name in the UK with the first of his string of talent shows Pop Idol This was followed subsequently by The X Factor and Britainrsquos Got Talent Cowell became famous for his blunt cruel but justified criticisms of the contestants often articulating the views of the audience but with a lack of concern for the devastating impact on the recipient
Cowell premiered American Idol on Fox in 2002 and it has since become one of the most successful shows on American tele-vision He followed this up in 2006 with Americarsquos Got Talent in 2006 and the American version of The X Factor in 2011 He is also a master of the one line put down including ldquoYou sounded like Cher after shersquos been to the dentistrdquo and ldquoShave off your beard and wear a dress You would be a great female impersonatorrdquo
Cowellrsquos rudeness pales into insignificance however when you
Simon Cowell at ldquoThe X Factorrdquo press conference in 2011 in Los Angeles Ca-lif
|S_BUKLEYSHUTTERSTOCKCOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 19OCTOBER 2012
compare him to the master of the lsquoF Wordrsquo British Celebrity Chef Gor-don Ramsay Already a household name in the UK both as a Michelin star chef and with a long list of TV shows behind him including Hellrsquos Kitchen Ramsayrsquos Kitchen Nightmares and The F Word among others Fox brought Ramsay to the USA in 2005 in the first series of the US version of Hellrsquos Kitchen which has proved to be very successful and continues to run He has also had a US version of Kitchen Nightmares Mas-terChef and Hotel Hell Given that Ramsay has been quoted as saying ldquothe problem with Yanks is that they are wimpsrdquo and frequently telling contestants in Hellrsquos Kitchen to lsquopiss offrsquo or worse his popularity in the States is somewhat surprising
The latest rude recruit is ex Brit-ish journalist Piers Morgan Initially famous in the UK for editorial posi-tions in the Murdoch tabloid press most notably the now defunct News of the World which has become syn-onymous with the ongoing phone hacking scandal currently working its way through the British judicial system No stranger to controversy he was found to have breached the Code of Conduct on financial jour-nalism back in 2000 while working for the Mirror newspaper and was fired from the same publication in 2004 when fake photographs of
British troops supposedly torturing Iraqi prisoners were authorised by Morgan
He reinvented himself as a judge on Cowellrsquos Britainrsquos Got Talent and
made himself known to American audiences on the US version Americarsquos Got Talent in 2007 He also won the 2008 US celebrity version of The Appren-tice In the UK his 2009 series Piers Morganrsquos Life Stories saw suc-cess as a chat show host but when he was given Piers Morgan Tonight by CNN in 2011 as a replacement to the legendary Larry King it was something of a
surprise to the UK public Recently when Republican Senate candidate Todd Akin failed to turn up on his show following the lsquolegitimate rapersquo controversy Morgan focused his attention on an empty chair and stated ldquoCongressman you have an open invitation to join me in that chair whenever you feel up to it If you donrsquot keep your promise to ap-pear on the show then you are what we would call in Britain a gutless little twerprdquo
The reason why rude Brits have become so successful in their Trans-Atlantic careers is something of a mystery Perhaps it is the breach of that characteristic lsquosang froidrsquo or that insults are easier on the ear in a foreign accent Whatever the reason it looks like the bad mannered Brits are here to stay
Piers Morgan
|Helga Esteb ShutterstockcoM
20 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Raul Rodriquez was nicknamed ldquoMr Rose Paraderdquo by local Pas-adena Calif press His rare macaw Se-bastian is often with them| LESLIE KAWAI
BY SARA LOVELACE
Across the world thousands of cultures exist each a unique blend of its own different factors The east and the west north and south the UK and the US Hispanic and Asian black and white ndash these distinctions exist all around the world combining together and creating unique possibilities
Possibilities are what the most famous float designers draw upon to complete unique entertaining and simply stunning visual representations of these combinations and this year float designer Raul Rodriguez became part of his own possibility Jan 2 by blending his Hispanic heritage with the Republic of Indonesiarsquos heritage by riding their float which became his 500th Rose Paradereg float design
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash knowing people and knowing the diversity of people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know if I could design like I dordquo
Adding an extra twist to the mix of possibilities in 2012rsquos Rose Parade was Rodriguezrsquos rare Amazonian blue hyacinth mccaw Sebastian on the Indonesia float too
ldquoIt is the 124th year for the parade (in 2013)rdquo Rodriguez said ldquoIt started at the turn of the century and it began as something to do with the fact that wersquore blessed with such beautiful weather usually most of the time and we show off our weather on New Years Day and show the beauty of flowers ndash Thatrsquos how the Tournament of Roses beganrdquo
The Tournament of Roses Parade and subsequent Rose Bowl sporting event is the United Statersquos New Years celebration and is witnessed by hun-
a world of possibilities
a float designer with a love of culture
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 23OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Wonderful Indonesiarsquos 2012 Rose Parade float
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
CREATIVE FOCUS
NOT JUST ORIGAMI
2012 Paper Biennial Rijswijk in Rijswijk amp The Hague ndash the Netherlands
Paper is a cheap and accessible material discarded in vast quanti-ties each day Almost all of us have attempted to create art forms from it at some stage in our lives The humble paper airplane or rudimen-tary paper fan paper doilies made from folding and cutting simple shapes from a square piece of paper rows of linked paper figures holding hands and papier-macirccheacute (literally French for ldquochewed pa-perrdquo) masks for the school play
The 2012 Paper Biennial Rijswijk Museum shows just how much can be achieved using the humble piece of paper and shows there is much more to paper art than the well-known Japanese practice of origami
Peter Besrsquo lsquoWhatrsquos Going On Herersquo
Jacqueline Overberg Smith amp Wesson N3 Steyr AUG Z Mauser K98 Stengun Win-chester lsquo73
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 15OCTOBER 2012
The exhibits opened at the beginning of Sep-tember at two separate locations the Rijswijk Museum in Rijswijk South Holland and the Meer-manno Museum in The Hague Netherlands The exhibit features over 20 international paper artists from Japan Spain Israel France and the United States
Meermanno Museum in The Hague focuses on artists working with books and letters The instal-lations range from macro installations such as the Biografias VI by Spanish artist Alicia Martiacuten to the smaller delicate scalpel deconstructed books of Ros Rixon Martiacutenrsquos work is constructed from hundreds of books which are suspended in a mesh wire cage and spew out from the window of the building in a frozen stream into the city street below
The sheer diversity of the work is breathtak-ing ranging from the organic-looking work of Eric Gjerde who uses origami to make sculptures from paper produced by bacteria to the architectural-looking work of British artist Sophie Arup who trained as a structural engineer and fuses her en-gineering perspective and mathematical concepts into her art
The papier-macirccheacute human forms of Peter Bes who was recently awarded the Roland Holst prize for visual arts produce a sense of alienation which is echoed in the thin card sculptures of Japanese artist Katsumi Hayakawa which attempt to sym-bolise the isolation of modern city dwellers
The making of the paper is an art form in itself and both museums will be showing work from the Combat Paper Project who run paper making and art workshops for American war veterans The pa-per they produce is made from their old uniforms which they wore in combat The uniforms are deconstructed beaten to a pulp and reconstructed into paper thus transforming a symbol of their war experiences into a work of art
The exhibits will run until Nov 25 2012 and any artists wishing to participate in the next Paper Biennial Rijswijk to be held in 2014 are requested to forward their documentation a CD-rom with photographs (2-4 MB) of recent artworks resume and printed address to the Rijswijk Museum before Aug 31 2013
Outside the Museum Meermanno in The Netherlands the entrance to this mu-seum is highly distinguishable as an av-alanche of books falling out onto the street suspending just before impact
|FRANK JANSEN MUSEUM MEERMANNO
16 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
OPENING TIMES BOTH MUSEUMS TUESDAY - SUNDAY 1200 - 1700
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK Herenstraat 67 NL-2282 BR Rijswijkwwwmuseumrijswijknl
More informationMuseum Rijswijk
+31(0)70 3903617 or akloosterboermuseumrijswijknlMuseum Meermanno
+31(0)6 23637101 or boermameermannonl
MUSEUM MEERMANNO | HUIS VAN HET BOEKPrinsessegracht 30 NL-2514 AP The Hague wwwmeermannonl
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK
Frits Achten (The Netherlands) Marlies Adriaanse (The Netherlands) Sophie Arup (England) Johnny Beerens (The Netherlands) Peter Bes (The Netherlands)Eric Gjerde (France)
Georgia Gremouti (Greece) Michael Hansmeyer (Switserland)
Katsumi Hayakawa (Japan) Jacqueline Overberg (The Netherlands)
Anne van de Pals (The Netherlands) Katrien Vogel (The Netherlands) Debra Weisberg (USA) Marleen van Wijngaarden (The Netherlands)
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK - MUSEUM MEERMANNO
Combat Paper - Drew Cameron (USA) Museum Meermanno-The Hague
Atelier Pariri - Jeacuterocircme Corgier (France) Laura Behar Ebon Heath (USA) Alicia Martiacuten (Spain) Ross Rixon (UK) Film This is where we live made for 4th Estate Publishers USA door
Apt Studio ndash UK contact Peter Collingridge
List of Participating Artists Biennial Rijswijk 2012Rijswijk ndash Den Haag The Netherlands
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 17OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Britain has been exporting film stars and celebrities to the United States since the early days of cinema Charlie Chaplin and Stan Laurel were the early pioneers followed by an invasion of tal-ent in the late 1920s with C Aubrey Smith George Arliss and then Leslie Howard Cedric Hardwicke and David Niven making their names in Hollywood These early exports portrayed a caricature of the British stereotype which continued through the latter half of the 20th century with the likes of John Mills Sir Laurence Olivier Julie Andrews and the Redgraves playing a particularly American view of the British character
This portrayal usually involved an upper class accent a peculiar stoicism politeness and the ldquostiff upper liprdquo The variation on this was the cheeky cockney who treated his social superiors with suit-able deference without letting his lip quiver an inch whatever was thrown at him
This trend continued into mainstream American television with series like ldquoMurder She Wroterdquo starring British-born An-gela Lansbury to ldquoThe Fresh Prince of Bel-Airrdquo which featured St Lucian-born English actor Joseph Marcell who plays Geoffrey the archetype English butler Although we continue to see this ste-reotype in contemporary media with Hollywood actresses such as Keira Knightley and television celebrities such as Hugh Laurie something else is underfoot
MEAN exports
Why the lsquoBritish meanrsquo have taken the world by storm
18 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Meet the British Meanie exports the English with a bad at-titude who smash the polite caricatures and are taking the United States by storm
Anne Robinson a stalwart of British media and television paved the way in 2001 when US network NBC took out an option on the British game show The Weakest Link While it is standard practice for TV formats to be sold worldwide it is unusual for the presenter to be part of the deal As a result Robinson became the first British woman to host an American game show She had been voted the rudest woman on TV by the read-ers of British publication the TV Times prior to being offered the US contract and became known as the ldquoQueen of Meanrdquo as a result of her pithy one-line put-downs catch phrase ldquoYou are the Weakest Link goodbyerdquo and the silent ldquowalk of shamerdquo endured by the contes-tants
The initial reaction was badldquoWersquove had MTV for yearsrdquo Washington
Post reviewer Tom Shales said ldquoNow NBC gives us SampM TV The genre to which the Weakest Link belongs isnrsquot reality television but humiliation televisionrdquo
Clearly however the taste for rude Brits was not satiated by Robinson as over the last 10 years several more British meanies have been exported The most notable is perhaps British music executive and television producer Simon Cowell who made his name in the UK with the first of his string of talent shows Pop Idol This was followed subsequently by The X Factor and Britainrsquos Got Talent Cowell became famous for his blunt cruel but justified criticisms of the contestants often articulating the views of the audience but with a lack of concern for the devastating impact on the recipient
Cowell premiered American Idol on Fox in 2002 and it has since become one of the most successful shows on American tele-vision He followed this up in 2006 with Americarsquos Got Talent in 2006 and the American version of The X Factor in 2011 He is also a master of the one line put down including ldquoYou sounded like Cher after shersquos been to the dentistrdquo and ldquoShave off your beard and wear a dress You would be a great female impersonatorrdquo
Cowellrsquos rudeness pales into insignificance however when you
Simon Cowell at ldquoThe X Factorrdquo press conference in 2011 in Los Angeles Ca-lif
|S_BUKLEYSHUTTERSTOCKCOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 19OCTOBER 2012
compare him to the master of the lsquoF Wordrsquo British Celebrity Chef Gor-don Ramsay Already a household name in the UK both as a Michelin star chef and with a long list of TV shows behind him including Hellrsquos Kitchen Ramsayrsquos Kitchen Nightmares and The F Word among others Fox brought Ramsay to the USA in 2005 in the first series of the US version of Hellrsquos Kitchen which has proved to be very successful and continues to run He has also had a US version of Kitchen Nightmares Mas-terChef and Hotel Hell Given that Ramsay has been quoted as saying ldquothe problem with Yanks is that they are wimpsrdquo and frequently telling contestants in Hellrsquos Kitchen to lsquopiss offrsquo or worse his popularity in the States is somewhat surprising
The latest rude recruit is ex Brit-ish journalist Piers Morgan Initially famous in the UK for editorial posi-tions in the Murdoch tabloid press most notably the now defunct News of the World which has become syn-onymous with the ongoing phone hacking scandal currently working its way through the British judicial system No stranger to controversy he was found to have breached the Code of Conduct on financial jour-nalism back in 2000 while working for the Mirror newspaper and was fired from the same publication in 2004 when fake photographs of
British troops supposedly torturing Iraqi prisoners were authorised by Morgan
He reinvented himself as a judge on Cowellrsquos Britainrsquos Got Talent and
made himself known to American audiences on the US version Americarsquos Got Talent in 2007 He also won the 2008 US celebrity version of The Appren-tice In the UK his 2009 series Piers Morganrsquos Life Stories saw suc-cess as a chat show host but when he was given Piers Morgan Tonight by CNN in 2011 as a replacement to the legendary Larry King it was something of a
surprise to the UK public Recently when Republican Senate candidate Todd Akin failed to turn up on his show following the lsquolegitimate rapersquo controversy Morgan focused his attention on an empty chair and stated ldquoCongressman you have an open invitation to join me in that chair whenever you feel up to it If you donrsquot keep your promise to ap-pear on the show then you are what we would call in Britain a gutless little twerprdquo
The reason why rude Brits have become so successful in their Trans-Atlantic careers is something of a mystery Perhaps it is the breach of that characteristic lsquosang froidrsquo or that insults are easier on the ear in a foreign accent Whatever the reason it looks like the bad mannered Brits are here to stay
Piers Morgan
|Helga Esteb ShutterstockcoM
20 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Raul Rodriquez was nicknamed ldquoMr Rose Paraderdquo by local Pas-adena Calif press His rare macaw Se-bastian is often with them| LESLIE KAWAI
BY SARA LOVELACE
Across the world thousands of cultures exist each a unique blend of its own different factors The east and the west north and south the UK and the US Hispanic and Asian black and white ndash these distinctions exist all around the world combining together and creating unique possibilities
Possibilities are what the most famous float designers draw upon to complete unique entertaining and simply stunning visual representations of these combinations and this year float designer Raul Rodriguez became part of his own possibility Jan 2 by blending his Hispanic heritage with the Republic of Indonesiarsquos heritage by riding their float which became his 500th Rose Paradereg float design
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash knowing people and knowing the diversity of people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know if I could design like I dordquo
Adding an extra twist to the mix of possibilities in 2012rsquos Rose Parade was Rodriguezrsquos rare Amazonian blue hyacinth mccaw Sebastian on the Indonesia float too
ldquoIt is the 124th year for the parade (in 2013)rdquo Rodriguez said ldquoIt started at the turn of the century and it began as something to do with the fact that wersquore blessed with such beautiful weather usually most of the time and we show off our weather on New Years Day and show the beauty of flowers ndash Thatrsquos how the Tournament of Roses beganrdquo
The Tournament of Roses Parade and subsequent Rose Bowl sporting event is the United Statersquos New Years celebration and is witnessed by hun-
a world of possibilities
a float designer with a love of culture
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 23OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Wonderful Indonesiarsquos 2012 Rose Parade float
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Jacqueline Overberg Smith amp Wesson N3 Steyr AUG Z Mauser K98 Stengun Win-chester lsquo73
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 15OCTOBER 2012
The exhibits opened at the beginning of Sep-tember at two separate locations the Rijswijk Museum in Rijswijk South Holland and the Meer-manno Museum in The Hague Netherlands The exhibit features over 20 international paper artists from Japan Spain Israel France and the United States
Meermanno Museum in The Hague focuses on artists working with books and letters The instal-lations range from macro installations such as the Biografias VI by Spanish artist Alicia Martiacuten to the smaller delicate scalpel deconstructed books of Ros Rixon Martiacutenrsquos work is constructed from hundreds of books which are suspended in a mesh wire cage and spew out from the window of the building in a frozen stream into the city street below
The sheer diversity of the work is breathtak-ing ranging from the organic-looking work of Eric Gjerde who uses origami to make sculptures from paper produced by bacteria to the architectural-looking work of British artist Sophie Arup who trained as a structural engineer and fuses her en-gineering perspective and mathematical concepts into her art
The papier-macirccheacute human forms of Peter Bes who was recently awarded the Roland Holst prize for visual arts produce a sense of alienation which is echoed in the thin card sculptures of Japanese artist Katsumi Hayakawa which attempt to sym-bolise the isolation of modern city dwellers
The making of the paper is an art form in itself and both museums will be showing work from the Combat Paper Project who run paper making and art workshops for American war veterans The pa-per they produce is made from their old uniforms which they wore in combat The uniforms are deconstructed beaten to a pulp and reconstructed into paper thus transforming a symbol of their war experiences into a work of art
The exhibits will run until Nov 25 2012 and any artists wishing to participate in the next Paper Biennial Rijswijk to be held in 2014 are requested to forward their documentation a CD-rom with photographs (2-4 MB) of recent artworks resume and printed address to the Rijswijk Museum before Aug 31 2013
Outside the Museum Meermanno in The Netherlands the entrance to this mu-seum is highly distinguishable as an av-alanche of books falling out onto the street suspending just before impact
|FRANK JANSEN MUSEUM MEERMANNO
16 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
OPENING TIMES BOTH MUSEUMS TUESDAY - SUNDAY 1200 - 1700
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK Herenstraat 67 NL-2282 BR Rijswijkwwwmuseumrijswijknl
More informationMuseum Rijswijk
+31(0)70 3903617 or akloosterboermuseumrijswijknlMuseum Meermanno
+31(0)6 23637101 or boermameermannonl
MUSEUM MEERMANNO | HUIS VAN HET BOEKPrinsessegracht 30 NL-2514 AP The Hague wwwmeermannonl
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK
Frits Achten (The Netherlands) Marlies Adriaanse (The Netherlands) Sophie Arup (England) Johnny Beerens (The Netherlands) Peter Bes (The Netherlands)Eric Gjerde (France)
Georgia Gremouti (Greece) Michael Hansmeyer (Switserland)
Katsumi Hayakawa (Japan) Jacqueline Overberg (The Netherlands)
Anne van de Pals (The Netherlands) Katrien Vogel (The Netherlands) Debra Weisberg (USA) Marleen van Wijngaarden (The Netherlands)
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK - MUSEUM MEERMANNO
Combat Paper - Drew Cameron (USA) Museum Meermanno-The Hague
Atelier Pariri - Jeacuterocircme Corgier (France) Laura Behar Ebon Heath (USA) Alicia Martiacuten (Spain) Ross Rixon (UK) Film This is where we live made for 4th Estate Publishers USA door
Apt Studio ndash UK contact Peter Collingridge
List of Participating Artists Biennial Rijswijk 2012Rijswijk ndash Den Haag The Netherlands
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 17OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Britain has been exporting film stars and celebrities to the United States since the early days of cinema Charlie Chaplin and Stan Laurel were the early pioneers followed by an invasion of tal-ent in the late 1920s with C Aubrey Smith George Arliss and then Leslie Howard Cedric Hardwicke and David Niven making their names in Hollywood These early exports portrayed a caricature of the British stereotype which continued through the latter half of the 20th century with the likes of John Mills Sir Laurence Olivier Julie Andrews and the Redgraves playing a particularly American view of the British character
This portrayal usually involved an upper class accent a peculiar stoicism politeness and the ldquostiff upper liprdquo The variation on this was the cheeky cockney who treated his social superiors with suit-able deference without letting his lip quiver an inch whatever was thrown at him
This trend continued into mainstream American television with series like ldquoMurder She Wroterdquo starring British-born An-gela Lansbury to ldquoThe Fresh Prince of Bel-Airrdquo which featured St Lucian-born English actor Joseph Marcell who plays Geoffrey the archetype English butler Although we continue to see this ste-reotype in contemporary media with Hollywood actresses such as Keira Knightley and television celebrities such as Hugh Laurie something else is underfoot
MEAN exports
Why the lsquoBritish meanrsquo have taken the world by storm
18 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Meet the British Meanie exports the English with a bad at-titude who smash the polite caricatures and are taking the United States by storm
Anne Robinson a stalwart of British media and television paved the way in 2001 when US network NBC took out an option on the British game show The Weakest Link While it is standard practice for TV formats to be sold worldwide it is unusual for the presenter to be part of the deal As a result Robinson became the first British woman to host an American game show She had been voted the rudest woman on TV by the read-ers of British publication the TV Times prior to being offered the US contract and became known as the ldquoQueen of Meanrdquo as a result of her pithy one-line put-downs catch phrase ldquoYou are the Weakest Link goodbyerdquo and the silent ldquowalk of shamerdquo endured by the contes-tants
The initial reaction was badldquoWersquove had MTV for yearsrdquo Washington
Post reviewer Tom Shales said ldquoNow NBC gives us SampM TV The genre to which the Weakest Link belongs isnrsquot reality television but humiliation televisionrdquo
Clearly however the taste for rude Brits was not satiated by Robinson as over the last 10 years several more British meanies have been exported The most notable is perhaps British music executive and television producer Simon Cowell who made his name in the UK with the first of his string of talent shows Pop Idol This was followed subsequently by The X Factor and Britainrsquos Got Talent Cowell became famous for his blunt cruel but justified criticisms of the contestants often articulating the views of the audience but with a lack of concern for the devastating impact on the recipient
Cowell premiered American Idol on Fox in 2002 and it has since become one of the most successful shows on American tele-vision He followed this up in 2006 with Americarsquos Got Talent in 2006 and the American version of The X Factor in 2011 He is also a master of the one line put down including ldquoYou sounded like Cher after shersquos been to the dentistrdquo and ldquoShave off your beard and wear a dress You would be a great female impersonatorrdquo
Cowellrsquos rudeness pales into insignificance however when you
Simon Cowell at ldquoThe X Factorrdquo press conference in 2011 in Los Angeles Ca-lif
|S_BUKLEYSHUTTERSTOCKCOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 19OCTOBER 2012
compare him to the master of the lsquoF Wordrsquo British Celebrity Chef Gor-don Ramsay Already a household name in the UK both as a Michelin star chef and with a long list of TV shows behind him including Hellrsquos Kitchen Ramsayrsquos Kitchen Nightmares and The F Word among others Fox brought Ramsay to the USA in 2005 in the first series of the US version of Hellrsquos Kitchen which has proved to be very successful and continues to run He has also had a US version of Kitchen Nightmares Mas-terChef and Hotel Hell Given that Ramsay has been quoted as saying ldquothe problem with Yanks is that they are wimpsrdquo and frequently telling contestants in Hellrsquos Kitchen to lsquopiss offrsquo or worse his popularity in the States is somewhat surprising
The latest rude recruit is ex Brit-ish journalist Piers Morgan Initially famous in the UK for editorial posi-tions in the Murdoch tabloid press most notably the now defunct News of the World which has become syn-onymous with the ongoing phone hacking scandal currently working its way through the British judicial system No stranger to controversy he was found to have breached the Code of Conduct on financial jour-nalism back in 2000 while working for the Mirror newspaper and was fired from the same publication in 2004 when fake photographs of
British troops supposedly torturing Iraqi prisoners were authorised by Morgan
He reinvented himself as a judge on Cowellrsquos Britainrsquos Got Talent and
made himself known to American audiences on the US version Americarsquos Got Talent in 2007 He also won the 2008 US celebrity version of The Appren-tice In the UK his 2009 series Piers Morganrsquos Life Stories saw suc-cess as a chat show host but when he was given Piers Morgan Tonight by CNN in 2011 as a replacement to the legendary Larry King it was something of a
surprise to the UK public Recently when Republican Senate candidate Todd Akin failed to turn up on his show following the lsquolegitimate rapersquo controversy Morgan focused his attention on an empty chair and stated ldquoCongressman you have an open invitation to join me in that chair whenever you feel up to it If you donrsquot keep your promise to ap-pear on the show then you are what we would call in Britain a gutless little twerprdquo
The reason why rude Brits have become so successful in their Trans-Atlantic careers is something of a mystery Perhaps it is the breach of that characteristic lsquosang froidrsquo or that insults are easier on the ear in a foreign accent Whatever the reason it looks like the bad mannered Brits are here to stay
Piers Morgan
|Helga Esteb ShutterstockcoM
20 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Raul Rodriquez was nicknamed ldquoMr Rose Paraderdquo by local Pas-adena Calif press His rare macaw Se-bastian is often with them| LESLIE KAWAI
BY SARA LOVELACE
Across the world thousands of cultures exist each a unique blend of its own different factors The east and the west north and south the UK and the US Hispanic and Asian black and white ndash these distinctions exist all around the world combining together and creating unique possibilities
Possibilities are what the most famous float designers draw upon to complete unique entertaining and simply stunning visual representations of these combinations and this year float designer Raul Rodriguez became part of his own possibility Jan 2 by blending his Hispanic heritage with the Republic of Indonesiarsquos heritage by riding their float which became his 500th Rose Paradereg float design
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash knowing people and knowing the diversity of people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know if I could design like I dordquo
Adding an extra twist to the mix of possibilities in 2012rsquos Rose Parade was Rodriguezrsquos rare Amazonian blue hyacinth mccaw Sebastian on the Indonesia float too
ldquoIt is the 124th year for the parade (in 2013)rdquo Rodriguez said ldquoIt started at the turn of the century and it began as something to do with the fact that wersquore blessed with such beautiful weather usually most of the time and we show off our weather on New Years Day and show the beauty of flowers ndash Thatrsquos how the Tournament of Roses beganrdquo
The Tournament of Roses Parade and subsequent Rose Bowl sporting event is the United Statersquos New Years celebration and is witnessed by hun-
a world of possibilities
a float designer with a love of culture
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 23OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Wonderful Indonesiarsquos 2012 Rose Parade float
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The exhibits opened at the beginning of Sep-tember at two separate locations the Rijswijk Museum in Rijswijk South Holland and the Meer-manno Museum in The Hague Netherlands The exhibit features over 20 international paper artists from Japan Spain Israel France and the United States
Meermanno Museum in The Hague focuses on artists working with books and letters The instal-lations range from macro installations such as the Biografias VI by Spanish artist Alicia Martiacuten to the smaller delicate scalpel deconstructed books of Ros Rixon Martiacutenrsquos work is constructed from hundreds of books which are suspended in a mesh wire cage and spew out from the window of the building in a frozen stream into the city street below
The sheer diversity of the work is breathtak-ing ranging from the organic-looking work of Eric Gjerde who uses origami to make sculptures from paper produced by bacteria to the architectural-looking work of British artist Sophie Arup who trained as a structural engineer and fuses her en-gineering perspective and mathematical concepts into her art
The papier-macirccheacute human forms of Peter Bes who was recently awarded the Roland Holst prize for visual arts produce a sense of alienation which is echoed in the thin card sculptures of Japanese artist Katsumi Hayakawa which attempt to sym-bolise the isolation of modern city dwellers
The making of the paper is an art form in itself and both museums will be showing work from the Combat Paper Project who run paper making and art workshops for American war veterans The pa-per they produce is made from their old uniforms which they wore in combat The uniforms are deconstructed beaten to a pulp and reconstructed into paper thus transforming a symbol of their war experiences into a work of art
The exhibits will run until Nov 25 2012 and any artists wishing to participate in the next Paper Biennial Rijswijk to be held in 2014 are requested to forward their documentation a CD-rom with photographs (2-4 MB) of recent artworks resume and printed address to the Rijswijk Museum before Aug 31 2013
Outside the Museum Meermanno in The Netherlands the entrance to this mu-seum is highly distinguishable as an av-alanche of books falling out onto the street suspending just before impact
|FRANK JANSEN MUSEUM MEERMANNO
16 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
OPENING TIMES BOTH MUSEUMS TUESDAY - SUNDAY 1200 - 1700
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK Herenstraat 67 NL-2282 BR Rijswijkwwwmuseumrijswijknl
More informationMuseum Rijswijk
+31(0)70 3903617 or akloosterboermuseumrijswijknlMuseum Meermanno
+31(0)6 23637101 or boermameermannonl
MUSEUM MEERMANNO | HUIS VAN HET BOEKPrinsessegracht 30 NL-2514 AP The Hague wwwmeermannonl
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK
Frits Achten (The Netherlands) Marlies Adriaanse (The Netherlands) Sophie Arup (England) Johnny Beerens (The Netherlands) Peter Bes (The Netherlands)Eric Gjerde (France)
Georgia Gremouti (Greece) Michael Hansmeyer (Switserland)
Katsumi Hayakawa (Japan) Jacqueline Overberg (The Netherlands)
Anne van de Pals (The Netherlands) Katrien Vogel (The Netherlands) Debra Weisberg (USA) Marleen van Wijngaarden (The Netherlands)
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK - MUSEUM MEERMANNO
Combat Paper - Drew Cameron (USA) Museum Meermanno-The Hague
Atelier Pariri - Jeacuterocircme Corgier (France) Laura Behar Ebon Heath (USA) Alicia Martiacuten (Spain) Ross Rixon (UK) Film This is where we live made for 4th Estate Publishers USA door
Apt Studio ndash UK contact Peter Collingridge
List of Participating Artists Biennial Rijswijk 2012Rijswijk ndash Den Haag The Netherlands
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 17OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Britain has been exporting film stars and celebrities to the United States since the early days of cinema Charlie Chaplin and Stan Laurel were the early pioneers followed by an invasion of tal-ent in the late 1920s with C Aubrey Smith George Arliss and then Leslie Howard Cedric Hardwicke and David Niven making their names in Hollywood These early exports portrayed a caricature of the British stereotype which continued through the latter half of the 20th century with the likes of John Mills Sir Laurence Olivier Julie Andrews and the Redgraves playing a particularly American view of the British character
This portrayal usually involved an upper class accent a peculiar stoicism politeness and the ldquostiff upper liprdquo The variation on this was the cheeky cockney who treated his social superiors with suit-able deference without letting his lip quiver an inch whatever was thrown at him
This trend continued into mainstream American television with series like ldquoMurder She Wroterdquo starring British-born An-gela Lansbury to ldquoThe Fresh Prince of Bel-Airrdquo which featured St Lucian-born English actor Joseph Marcell who plays Geoffrey the archetype English butler Although we continue to see this ste-reotype in contemporary media with Hollywood actresses such as Keira Knightley and television celebrities such as Hugh Laurie something else is underfoot
MEAN exports
Why the lsquoBritish meanrsquo have taken the world by storm
18 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Meet the British Meanie exports the English with a bad at-titude who smash the polite caricatures and are taking the United States by storm
Anne Robinson a stalwart of British media and television paved the way in 2001 when US network NBC took out an option on the British game show The Weakest Link While it is standard practice for TV formats to be sold worldwide it is unusual for the presenter to be part of the deal As a result Robinson became the first British woman to host an American game show She had been voted the rudest woman on TV by the read-ers of British publication the TV Times prior to being offered the US contract and became known as the ldquoQueen of Meanrdquo as a result of her pithy one-line put-downs catch phrase ldquoYou are the Weakest Link goodbyerdquo and the silent ldquowalk of shamerdquo endured by the contes-tants
The initial reaction was badldquoWersquove had MTV for yearsrdquo Washington
Post reviewer Tom Shales said ldquoNow NBC gives us SampM TV The genre to which the Weakest Link belongs isnrsquot reality television but humiliation televisionrdquo
Clearly however the taste for rude Brits was not satiated by Robinson as over the last 10 years several more British meanies have been exported The most notable is perhaps British music executive and television producer Simon Cowell who made his name in the UK with the first of his string of talent shows Pop Idol This was followed subsequently by The X Factor and Britainrsquos Got Talent Cowell became famous for his blunt cruel but justified criticisms of the contestants often articulating the views of the audience but with a lack of concern for the devastating impact on the recipient
Cowell premiered American Idol on Fox in 2002 and it has since become one of the most successful shows on American tele-vision He followed this up in 2006 with Americarsquos Got Talent in 2006 and the American version of The X Factor in 2011 He is also a master of the one line put down including ldquoYou sounded like Cher after shersquos been to the dentistrdquo and ldquoShave off your beard and wear a dress You would be a great female impersonatorrdquo
Cowellrsquos rudeness pales into insignificance however when you
Simon Cowell at ldquoThe X Factorrdquo press conference in 2011 in Los Angeles Ca-lif
|S_BUKLEYSHUTTERSTOCKCOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 19OCTOBER 2012
compare him to the master of the lsquoF Wordrsquo British Celebrity Chef Gor-don Ramsay Already a household name in the UK both as a Michelin star chef and with a long list of TV shows behind him including Hellrsquos Kitchen Ramsayrsquos Kitchen Nightmares and The F Word among others Fox brought Ramsay to the USA in 2005 in the first series of the US version of Hellrsquos Kitchen which has proved to be very successful and continues to run He has also had a US version of Kitchen Nightmares Mas-terChef and Hotel Hell Given that Ramsay has been quoted as saying ldquothe problem with Yanks is that they are wimpsrdquo and frequently telling contestants in Hellrsquos Kitchen to lsquopiss offrsquo or worse his popularity in the States is somewhat surprising
The latest rude recruit is ex Brit-ish journalist Piers Morgan Initially famous in the UK for editorial posi-tions in the Murdoch tabloid press most notably the now defunct News of the World which has become syn-onymous with the ongoing phone hacking scandal currently working its way through the British judicial system No stranger to controversy he was found to have breached the Code of Conduct on financial jour-nalism back in 2000 while working for the Mirror newspaper and was fired from the same publication in 2004 when fake photographs of
British troops supposedly torturing Iraqi prisoners were authorised by Morgan
He reinvented himself as a judge on Cowellrsquos Britainrsquos Got Talent and
made himself known to American audiences on the US version Americarsquos Got Talent in 2007 He also won the 2008 US celebrity version of The Appren-tice In the UK his 2009 series Piers Morganrsquos Life Stories saw suc-cess as a chat show host but when he was given Piers Morgan Tonight by CNN in 2011 as a replacement to the legendary Larry King it was something of a
surprise to the UK public Recently when Republican Senate candidate Todd Akin failed to turn up on his show following the lsquolegitimate rapersquo controversy Morgan focused his attention on an empty chair and stated ldquoCongressman you have an open invitation to join me in that chair whenever you feel up to it If you donrsquot keep your promise to ap-pear on the show then you are what we would call in Britain a gutless little twerprdquo
The reason why rude Brits have become so successful in their Trans-Atlantic careers is something of a mystery Perhaps it is the breach of that characteristic lsquosang froidrsquo or that insults are easier on the ear in a foreign accent Whatever the reason it looks like the bad mannered Brits are here to stay
Piers Morgan
|Helga Esteb ShutterstockcoM
20 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Raul Rodriquez was nicknamed ldquoMr Rose Paraderdquo by local Pas-adena Calif press His rare macaw Se-bastian is often with them| LESLIE KAWAI
BY SARA LOVELACE
Across the world thousands of cultures exist each a unique blend of its own different factors The east and the west north and south the UK and the US Hispanic and Asian black and white ndash these distinctions exist all around the world combining together and creating unique possibilities
Possibilities are what the most famous float designers draw upon to complete unique entertaining and simply stunning visual representations of these combinations and this year float designer Raul Rodriguez became part of his own possibility Jan 2 by blending his Hispanic heritage with the Republic of Indonesiarsquos heritage by riding their float which became his 500th Rose Paradereg float design
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash knowing people and knowing the diversity of people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know if I could design like I dordquo
Adding an extra twist to the mix of possibilities in 2012rsquos Rose Parade was Rodriguezrsquos rare Amazonian blue hyacinth mccaw Sebastian on the Indonesia float too
ldquoIt is the 124th year for the parade (in 2013)rdquo Rodriguez said ldquoIt started at the turn of the century and it began as something to do with the fact that wersquore blessed with such beautiful weather usually most of the time and we show off our weather on New Years Day and show the beauty of flowers ndash Thatrsquos how the Tournament of Roses beganrdquo
The Tournament of Roses Parade and subsequent Rose Bowl sporting event is the United Statersquos New Years celebration and is witnessed by hun-
a world of possibilities
a float designer with a love of culture
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 23OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Wonderful Indonesiarsquos 2012 Rose Parade float
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
OPENING TIMES BOTH MUSEUMS TUESDAY - SUNDAY 1200 - 1700
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK Herenstraat 67 NL-2282 BR Rijswijkwwwmuseumrijswijknl
More informationMuseum Rijswijk
+31(0)70 3903617 or akloosterboermuseumrijswijknlMuseum Meermanno
+31(0)6 23637101 or boermameermannonl
MUSEUM MEERMANNO | HUIS VAN HET BOEKPrinsessegracht 30 NL-2514 AP The Hague wwwmeermannonl
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK
Frits Achten (The Netherlands) Marlies Adriaanse (The Netherlands) Sophie Arup (England) Johnny Beerens (The Netherlands) Peter Bes (The Netherlands)Eric Gjerde (France)
Georgia Gremouti (Greece) Michael Hansmeyer (Switserland)
Katsumi Hayakawa (Japan) Jacqueline Overberg (The Netherlands)
Anne van de Pals (The Netherlands) Katrien Vogel (The Netherlands) Debra Weisberg (USA) Marleen van Wijngaarden (The Netherlands)
MUSEUM RIJSWIJK - MUSEUM MEERMANNO
Combat Paper - Drew Cameron (USA) Museum Meermanno-The Hague
Atelier Pariri - Jeacuterocircme Corgier (France) Laura Behar Ebon Heath (USA) Alicia Martiacuten (Spain) Ross Rixon (UK) Film This is where we live made for 4th Estate Publishers USA door
Apt Studio ndash UK contact Peter Collingridge
List of Participating Artists Biennial Rijswijk 2012Rijswijk ndash Den Haag The Netherlands
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 17OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Britain has been exporting film stars and celebrities to the United States since the early days of cinema Charlie Chaplin and Stan Laurel were the early pioneers followed by an invasion of tal-ent in the late 1920s with C Aubrey Smith George Arliss and then Leslie Howard Cedric Hardwicke and David Niven making their names in Hollywood These early exports portrayed a caricature of the British stereotype which continued through the latter half of the 20th century with the likes of John Mills Sir Laurence Olivier Julie Andrews and the Redgraves playing a particularly American view of the British character
This portrayal usually involved an upper class accent a peculiar stoicism politeness and the ldquostiff upper liprdquo The variation on this was the cheeky cockney who treated his social superiors with suit-able deference without letting his lip quiver an inch whatever was thrown at him
This trend continued into mainstream American television with series like ldquoMurder She Wroterdquo starring British-born An-gela Lansbury to ldquoThe Fresh Prince of Bel-Airrdquo which featured St Lucian-born English actor Joseph Marcell who plays Geoffrey the archetype English butler Although we continue to see this ste-reotype in contemporary media with Hollywood actresses such as Keira Knightley and television celebrities such as Hugh Laurie something else is underfoot
MEAN exports
Why the lsquoBritish meanrsquo have taken the world by storm
18 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Meet the British Meanie exports the English with a bad at-titude who smash the polite caricatures and are taking the United States by storm
Anne Robinson a stalwart of British media and television paved the way in 2001 when US network NBC took out an option on the British game show The Weakest Link While it is standard practice for TV formats to be sold worldwide it is unusual for the presenter to be part of the deal As a result Robinson became the first British woman to host an American game show She had been voted the rudest woman on TV by the read-ers of British publication the TV Times prior to being offered the US contract and became known as the ldquoQueen of Meanrdquo as a result of her pithy one-line put-downs catch phrase ldquoYou are the Weakest Link goodbyerdquo and the silent ldquowalk of shamerdquo endured by the contes-tants
The initial reaction was badldquoWersquove had MTV for yearsrdquo Washington
Post reviewer Tom Shales said ldquoNow NBC gives us SampM TV The genre to which the Weakest Link belongs isnrsquot reality television but humiliation televisionrdquo
Clearly however the taste for rude Brits was not satiated by Robinson as over the last 10 years several more British meanies have been exported The most notable is perhaps British music executive and television producer Simon Cowell who made his name in the UK with the first of his string of talent shows Pop Idol This was followed subsequently by The X Factor and Britainrsquos Got Talent Cowell became famous for his blunt cruel but justified criticisms of the contestants often articulating the views of the audience but with a lack of concern for the devastating impact on the recipient
Cowell premiered American Idol on Fox in 2002 and it has since become one of the most successful shows on American tele-vision He followed this up in 2006 with Americarsquos Got Talent in 2006 and the American version of The X Factor in 2011 He is also a master of the one line put down including ldquoYou sounded like Cher after shersquos been to the dentistrdquo and ldquoShave off your beard and wear a dress You would be a great female impersonatorrdquo
Cowellrsquos rudeness pales into insignificance however when you
Simon Cowell at ldquoThe X Factorrdquo press conference in 2011 in Los Angeles Ca-lif
|S_BUKLEYSHUTTERSTOCKCOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 19OCTOBER 2012
compare him to the master of the lsquoF Wordrsquo British Celebrity Chef Gor-don Ramsay Already a household name in the UK both as a Michelin star chef and with a long list of TV shows behind him including Hellrsquos Kitchen Ramsayrsquos Kitchen Nightmares and The F Word among others Fox brought Ramsay to the USA in 2005 in the first series of the US version of Hellrsquos Kitchen which has proved to be very successful and continues to run He has also had a US version of Kitchen Nightmares Mas-terChef and Hotel Hell Given that Ramsay has been quoted as saying ldquothe problem with Yanks is that they are wimpsrdquo and frequently telling contestants in Hellrsquos Kitchen to lsquopiss offrsquo or worse his popularity in the States is somewhat surprising
The latest rude recruit is ex Brit-ish journalist Piers Morgan Initially famous in the UK for editorial posi-tions in the Murdoch tabloid press most notably the now defunct News of the World which has become syn-onymous with the ongoing phone hacking scandal currently working its way through the British judicial system No stranger to controversy he was found to have breached the Code of Conduct on financial jour-nalism back in 2000 while working for the Mirror newspaper and was fired from the same publication in 2004 when fake photographs of
British troops supposedly torturing Iraqi prisoners were authorised by Morgan
He reinvented himself as a judge on Cowellrsquos Britainrsquos Got Talent and
made himself known to American audiences on the US version Americarsquos Got Talent in 2007 He also won the 2008 US celebrity version of The Appren-tice In the UK his 2009 series Piers Morganrsquos Life Stories saw suc-cess as a chat show host but when he was given Piers Morgan Tonight by CNN in 2011 as a replacement to the legendary Larry King it was something of a
surprise to the UK public Recently when Republican Senate candidate Todd Akin failed to turn up on his show following the lsquolegitimate rapersquo controversy Morgan focused his attention on an empty chair and stated ldquoCongressman you have an open invitation to join me in that chair whenever you feel up to it If you donrsquot keep your promise to ap-pear on the show then you are what we would call in Britain a gutless little twerprdquo
The reason why rude Brits have become so successful in their Trans-Atlantic careers is something of a mystery Perhaps it is the breach of that characteristic lsquosang froidrsquo or that insults are easier on the ear in a foreign accent Whatever the reason it looks like the bad mannered Brits are here to stay
Piers Morgan
|Helga Esteb ShutterstockcoM
20 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Raul Rodriquez was nicknamed ldquoMr Rose Paraderdquo by local Pas-adena Calif press His rare macaw Se-bastian is often with them| LESLIE KAWAI
BY SARA LOVELACE
Across the world thousands of cultures exist each a unique blend of its own different factors The east and the west north and south the UK and the US Hispanic and Asian black and white ndash these distinctions exist all around the world combining together and creating unique possibilities
Possibilities are what the most famous float designers draw upon to complete unique entertaining and simply stunning visual representations of these combinations and this year float designer Raul Rodriguez became part of his own possibility Jan 2 by blending his Hispanic heritage with the Republic of Indonesiarsquos heritage by riding their float which became his 500th Rose Paradereg float design
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash knowing people and knowing the diversity of people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know if I could design like I dordquo
Adding an extra twist to the mix of possibilities in 2012rsquos Rose Parade was Rodriguezrsquos rare Amazonian blue hyacinth mccaw Sebastian on the Indonesia float too
ldquoIt is the 124th year for the parade (in 2013)rdquo Rodriguez said ldquoIt started at the turn of the century and it began as something to do with the fact that wersquore blessed with such beautiful weather usually most of the time and we show off our weather on New Years Day and show the beauty of flowers ndash Thatrsquos how the Tournament of Roses beganrdquo
The Tournament of Roses Parade and subsequent Rose Bowl sporting event is the United Statersquos New Years celebration and is witnessed by hun-
a world of possibilities
a float designer with a love of culture
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 23OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Wonderful Indonesiarsquos 2012 Rose Parade float
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Britain has been exporting film stars and celebrities to the United States since the early days of cinema Charlie Chaplin and Stan Laurel were the early pioneers followed by an invasion of tal-ent in the late 1920s with C Aubrey Smith George Arliss and then Leslie Howard Cedric Hardwicke and David Niven making their names in Hollywood These early exports portrayed a caricature of the British stereotype which continued through the latter half of the 20th century with the likes of John Mills Sir Laurence Olivier Julie Andrews and the Redgraves playing a particularly American view of the British character
This portrayal usually involved an upper class accent a peculiar stoicism politeness and the ldquostiff upper liprdquo The variation on this was the cheeky cockney who treated his social superiors with suit-able deference without letting his lip quiver an inch whatever was thrown at him
This trend continued into mainstream American television with series like ldquoMurder She Wroterdquo starring British-born An-gela Lansbury to ldquoThe Fresh Prince of Bel-Airrdquo which featured St Lucian-born English actor Joseph Marcell who plays Geoffrey the archetype English butler Although we continue to see this ste-reotype in contemporary media with Hollywood actresses such as Keira Knightley and television celebrities such as Hugh Laurie something else is underfoot
MEAN exports
Why the lsquoBritish meanrsquo have taken the world by storm
18 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Meet the British Meanie exports the English with a bad at-titude who smash the polite caricatures and are taking the United States by storm
Anne Robinson a stalwart of British media and television paved the way in 2001 when US network NBC took out an option on the British game show The Weakest Link While it is standard practice for TV formats to be sold worldwide it is unusual for the presenter to be part of the deal As a result Robinson became the first British woman to host an American game show She had been voted the rudest woman on TV by the read-ers of British publication the TV Times prior to being offered the US contract and became known as the ldquoQueen of Meanrdquo as a result of her pithy one-line put-downs catch phrase ldquoYou are the Weakest Link goodbyerdquo and the silent ldquowalk of shamerdquo endured by the contes-tants
The initial reaction was badldquoWersquove had MTV for yearsrdquo Washington
Post reviewer Tom Shales said ldquoNow NBC gives us SampM TV The genre to which the Weakest Link belongs isnrsquot reality television but humiliation televisionrdquo
Clearly however the taste for rude Brits was not satiated by Robinson as over the last 10 years several more British meanies have been exported The most notable is perhaps British music executive and television producer Simon Cowell who made his name in the UK with the first of his string of talent shows Pop Idol This was followed subsequently by The X Factor and Britainrsquos Got Talent Cowell became famous for his blunt cruel but justified criticisms of the contestants often articulating the views of the audience but with a lack of concern for the devastating impact on the recipient
Cowell premiered American Idol on Fox in 2002 and it has since become one of the most successful shows on American tele-vision He followed this up in 2006 with Americarsquos Got Talent in 2006 and the American version of The X Factor in 2011 He is also a master of the one line put down including ldquoYou sounded like Cher after shersquos been to the dentistrdquo and ldquoShave off your beard and wear a dress You would be a great female impersonatorrdquo
Cowellrsquos rudeness pales into insignificance however when you
Simon Cowell at ldquoThe X Factorrdquo press conference in 2011 in Los Angeles Ca-lif
|S_BUKLEYSHUTTERSTOCKCOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 19OCTOBER 2012
compare him to the master of the lsquoF Wordrsquo British Celebrity Chef Gor-don Ramsay Already a household name in the UK both as a Michelin star chef and with a long list of TV shows behind him including Hellrsquos Kitchen Ramsayrsquos Kitchen Nightmares and The F Word among others Fox brought Ramsay to the USA in 2005 in the first series of the US version of Hellrsquos Kitchen which has proved to be very successful and continues to run He has also had a US version of Kitchen Nightmares Mas-terChef and Hotel Hell Given that Ramsay has been quoted as saying ldquothe problem with Yanks is that they are wimpsrdquo and frequently telling contestants in Hellrsquos Kitchen to lsquopiss offrsquo or worse his popularity in the States is somewhat surprising
The latest rude recruit is ex Brit-ish journalist Piers Morgan Initially famous in the UK for editorial posi-tions in the Murdoch tabloid press most notably the now defunct News of the World which has become syn-onymous with the ongoing phone hacking scandal currently working its way through the British judicial system No stranger to controversy he was found to have breached the Code of Conduct on financial jour-nalism back in 2000 while working for the Mirror newspaper and was fired from the same publication in 2004 when fake photographs of
British troops supposedly torturing Iraqi prisoners were authorised by Morgan
He reinvented himself as a judge on Cowellrsquos Britainrsquos Got Talent and
made himself known to American audiences on the US version Americarsquos Got Talent in 2007 He also won the 2008 US celebrity version of The Appren-tice In the UK his 2009 series Piers Morganrsquos Life Stories saw suc-cess as a chat show host but when he was given Piers Morgan Tonight by CNN in 2011 as a replacement to the legendary Larry King it was something of a
surprise to the UK public Recently when Republican Senate candidate Todd Akin failed to turn up on his show following the lsquolegitimate rapersquo controversy Morgan focused his attention on an empty chair and stated ldquoCongressman you have an open invitation to join me in that chair whenever you feel up to it If you donrsquot keep your promise to ap-pear on the show then you are what we would call in Britain a gutless little twerprdquo
The reason why rude Brits have become so successful in their Trans-Atlantic careers is something of a mystery Perhaps it is the breach of that characteristic lsquosang froidrsquo or that insults are easier on the ear in a foreign accent Whatever the reason it looks like the bad mannered Brits are here to stay
Piers Morgan
|Helga Esteb ShutterstockcoM
20 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Raul Rodriquez was nicknamed ldquoMr Rose Paraderdquo by local Pas-adena Calif press His rare macaw Se-bastian is often with them| LESLIE KAWAI
BY SARA LOVELACE
Across the world thousands of cultures exist each a unique blend of its own different factors The east and the west north and south the UK and the US Hispanic and Asian black and white ndash these distinctions exist all around the world combining together and creating unique possibilities
Possibilities are what the most famous float designers draw upon to complete unique entertaining and simply stunning visual representations of these combinations and this year float designer Raul Rodriguez became part of his own possibility Jan 2 by blending his Hispanic heritage with the Republic of Indonesiarsquos heritage by riding their float which became his 500th Rose Paradereg float design
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash knowing people and knowing the diversity of people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know if I could design like I dordquo
Adding an extra twist to the mix of possibilities in 2012rsquos Rose Parade was Rodriguezrsquos rare Amazonian blue hyacinth mccaw Sebastian on the Indonesia float too
ldquoIt is the 124th year for the parade (in 2013)rdquo Rodriguez said ldquoIt started at the turn of the century and it began as something to do with the fact that wersquore blessed with such beautiful weather usually most of the time and we show off our weather on New Years Day and show the beauty of flowers ndash Thatrsquos how the Tournament of Roses beganrdquo
The Tournament of Roses Parade and subsequent Rose Bowl sporting event is the United Statersquos New Years celebration and is witnessed by hun-
a world of possibilities
a float designer with a love of culture
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 23OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Wonderful Indonesiarsquos 2012 Rose Parade float
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Meet the British Meanie exports the English with a bad at-titude who smash the polite caricatures and are taking the United States by storm
Anne Robinson a stalwart of British media and television paved the way in 2001 when US network NBC took out an option on the British game show The Weakest Link While it is standard practice for TV formats to be sold worldwide it is unusual for the presenter to be part of the deal As a result Robinson became the first British woman to host an American game show She had been voted the rudest woman on TV by the read-ers of British publication the TV Times prior to being offered the US contract and became known as the ldquoQueen of Meanrdquo as a result of her pithy one-line put-downs catch phrase ldquoYou are the Weakest Link goodbyerdquo and the silent ldquowalk of shamerdquo endured by the contes-tants
The initial reaction was badldquoWersquove had MTV for yearsrdquo Washington
Post reviewer Tom Shales said ldquoNow NBC gives us SampM TV The genre to which the Weakest Link belongs isnrsquot reality television but humiliation televisionrdquo
Clearly however the taste for rude Brits was not satiated by Robinson as over the last 10 years several more British meanies have been exported The most notable is perhaps British music executive and television producer Simon Cowell who made his name in the UK with the first of his string of talent shows Pop Idol This was followed subsequently by The X Factor and Britainrsquos Got Talent Cowell became famous for his blunt cruel but justified criticisms of the contestants often articulating the views of the audience but with a lack of concern for the devastating impact on the recipient
Cowell premiered American Idol on Fox in 2002 and it has since become one of the most successful shows on American tele-vision He followed this up in 2006 with Americarsquos Got Talent in 2006 and the American version of The X Factor in 2011 He is also a master of the one line put down including ldquoYou sounded like Cher after shersquos been to the dentistrdquo and ldquoShave off your beard and wear a dress You would be a great female impersonatorrdquo
Cowellrsquos rudeness pales into insignificance however when you
Simon Cowell at ldquoThe X Factorrdquo press conference in 2011 in Los Angeles Ca-lif
|S_BUKLEYSHUTTERSTOCKCOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 19OCTOBER 2012
compare him to the master of the lsquoF Wordrsquo British Celebrity Chef Gor-don Ramsay Already a household name in the UK both as a Michelin star chef and with a long list of TV shows behind him including Hellrsquos Kitchen Ramsayrsquos Kitchen Nightmares and The F Word among others Fox brought Ramsay to the USA in 2005 in the first series of the US version of Hellrsquos Kitchen which has proved to be very successful and continues to run He has also had a US version of Kitchen Nightmares Mas-terChef and Hotel Hell Given that Ramsay has been quoted as saying ldquothe problem with Yanks is that they are wimpsrdquo and frequently telling contestants in Hellrsquos Kitchen to lsquopiss offrsquo or worse his popularity in the States is somewhat surprising
The latest rude recruit is ex Brit-ish journalist Piers Morgan Initially famous in the UK for editorial posi-tions in the Murdoch tabloid press most notably the now defunct News of the World which has become syn-onymous with the ongoing phone hacking scandal currently working its way through the British judicial system No stranger to controversy he was found to have breached the Code of Conduct on financial jour-nalism back in 2000 while working for the Mirror newspaper and was fired from the same publication in 2004 when fake photographs of
British troops supposedly torturing Iraqi prisoners were authorised by Morgan
He reinvented himself as a judge on Cowellrsquos Britainrsquos Got Talent and
made himself known to American audiences on the US version Americarsquos Got Talent in 2007 He also won the 2008 US celebrity version of The Appren-tice In the UK his 2009 series Piers Morganrsquos Life Stories saw suc-cess as a chat show host but when he was given Piers Morgan Tonight by CNN in 2011 as a replacement to the legendary Larry King it was something of a
surprise to the UK public Recently when Republican Senate candidate Todd Akin failed to turn up on his show following the lsquolegitimate rapersquo controversy Morgan focused his attention on an empty chair and stated ldquoCongressman you have an open invitation to join me in that chair whenever you feel up to it If you donrsquot keep your promise to ap-pear on the show then you are what we would call in Britain a gutless little twerprdquo
The reason why rude Brits have become so successful in their Trans-Atlantic careers is something of a mystery Perhaps it is the breach of that characteristic lsquosang froidrsquo or that insults are easier on the ear in a foreign accent Whatever the reason it looks like the bad mannered Brits are here to stay
Piers Morgan
|Helga Esteb ShutterstockcoM
20 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Raul Rodriquez was nicknamed ldquoMr Rose Paraderdquo by local Pas-adena Calif press His rare macaw Se-bastian is often with them| LESLIE KAWAI
BY SARA LOVELACE
Across the world thousands of cultures exist each a unique blend of its own different factors The east and the west north and south the UK and the US Hispanic and Asian black and white ndash these distinctions exist all around the world combining together and creating unique possibilities
Possibilities are what the most famous float designers draw upon to complete unique entertaining and simply stunning visual representations of these combinations and this year float designer Raul Rodriguez became part of his own possibility Jan 2 by blending his Hispanic heritage with the Republic of Indonesiarsquos heritage by riding their float which became his 500th Rose Paradereg float design
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash knowing people and knowing the diversity of people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know if I could design like I dordquo
Adding an extra twist to the mix of possibilities in 2012rsquos Rose Parade was Rodriguezrsquos rare Amazonian blue hyacinth mccaw Sebastian on the Indonesia float too
ldquoIt is the 124th year for the parade (in 2013)rdquo Rodriguez said ldquoIt started at the turn of the century and it began as something to do with the fact that wersquore blessed with such beautiful weather usually most of the time and we show off our weather on New Years Day and show the beauty of flowers ndash Thatrsquos how the Tournament of Roses beganrdquo
The Tournament of Roses Parade and subsequent Rose Bowl sporting event is the United Statersquos New Years celebration and is witnessed by hun-
a world of possibilities
a float designer with a love of culture
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 23OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Wonderful Indonesiarsquos 2012 Rose Parade float
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
compare him to the master of the lsquoF Wordrsquo British Celebrity Chef Gor-don Ramsay Already a household name in the UK both as a Michelin star chef and with a long list of TV shows behind him including Hellrsquos Kitchen Ramsayrsquos Kitchen Nightmares and The F Word among others Fox brought Ramsay to the USA in 2005 in the first series of the US version of Hellrsquos Kitchen which has proved to be very successful and continues to run He has also had a US version of Kitchen Nightmares Mas-terChef and Hotel Hell Given that Ramsay has been quoted as saying ldquothe problem with Yanks is that they are wimpsrdquo and frequently telling contestants in Hellrsquos Kitchen to lsquopiss offrsquo or worse his popularity in the States is somewhat surprising
The latest rude recruit is ex Brit-ish journalist Piers Morgan Initially famous in the UK for editorial posi-tions in the Murdoch tabloid press most notably the now defunct News of the World which has become syn-onymous with the ongoing phone hacking scandal currently working its way through the British judicial system No stranger to controversy he was found to have breached the Code of Conduct on financial jour-nalism back in 2000 while working for the Mirror newspaper and was fired from the same publication in 2004 when fake photographs of
British troops supposedly torturing Iraqi prisoners were authorised by Morgan
He reinvented himself as a judge on Cowellrsquos Britainrsquos Got Talent and
made himself known to American audiences on the US version Americarsquos Got Talent in 2007 He also won the 2008 US celebrity version of The Appren-tice In the UK his 2009 series Piers Morganrsquos Life Stories saw suc-cess as a chat show host but when he was given Piers Morgan Tonight by CNN in 2011 as a replacement to the legendary Larry King it was something of a
surprise to the UK public Recently when Republican Senate candidate Todd Akin failed to turn up on his show following the lsquolegitimate rapersquo controversy Morgan focused his attention on an empty chair and stated ldquoCongressman you have an open invitation to join me in that chair whenever you feel up to it If you donrsquot keep your promise to ap-pear on the show then you are what we would call in Britain a gutless little twerprdquo
The reason why rude Brits have become so successful in their Trans-Atlantic careers is something of a mystery Perhaps it is the breach of that characteristic lsquosang froidrsquo or that insults are easier on the ear in a foreign accent Whatever the reason it looks like the bad mannered Brits are here to stay
Piers Morgan
|Helga Esteb ShutterstockcoM
20 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Raul Rodriquez was nicknamed ldquoMr Rose Paraderdquo by local Pas-adena Calif press His rare macaw Se-bastian is often with them| LESLIE KAWAI
BY SARA LOVELACE
Across the world thousands of cultures exist each a unique blend of its own different factors The east and the west north and south the UK and the US Hispanic and Asian black and white ndash these distinctions exist all around the world combining together and creating unique possibilities
Possibilities are what the most famous float designers draw upon to complete unique entertaining and simply stunning visual representations of these combinations and this year float designer Raul Rodriguez became part of his own possibility Jan 2 by blending his Hispanic heritage with the Republic of Indonesiarsquos heritage by riding their float which became his 500th Rose Paradereg float design
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash knowing people and knowing the diversity of people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know if I could design like I dordquo
Adding an extra twist to the mix of possibilities in 2012rsquos Rose Parade was Rodriguezrsquos rare Amazonian blue hyacinth mccaw Sebastian on the Indonesia float too
ldquoIt is the 124th year for the parade (in 2013)rdquo Rodriguez said ldquoIt started at the turn of the century and it began as something to do with the fact that wersquore blessed with such beautiful weather usually most of the time and we show off our weather on New Years Day and show the beauty of flowers ndash Thatrsquos how the Tournament of Roses beganrdquo
The Tournament of Roses Parade and subsequent Rose Bowl sporting event is the United Statersquos New Years celebration and is witnessed by hun-
a world of possibilities
a float designer with a love of culture
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 23OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Wonderful Indonesiarsquos 2012 Rose Parade float
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Raul Rodriquez was nicknamed ldquoMr Rose Paraderdquo by local Pas-adena Calif press His rare macaw Se-bastian is often with them| LESLIE KAWAI
BY SARA LOVELACE
Across the world thousands of cultures exist each a unique blend of its own different factors The east and the west north and south the UK and the US Hispanic and Asian black and white ndash these distinctions exist all around the world combining together and creating unique possibilities
Possibilities are what the most famous float designers draw upon to complete unique entertaining and simply stunning visual representations of these combinations and this year float designer Raul Rodriguez became part of his own possibility Jan 2 by blending his Hispanic heritage with the Republic of Indonesiarsquos heritage by riding their float which became his 500th Rose Paradereg float design
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash knowing people and knowing the diversity of people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know if I could design like I dordquo
Adding an extra twist to the mix of possibilities in 2012rsquos Rose Parade was Rodriguezrsquos rare Amazonian blue hyacinth mccaw Sebastian on the Indonesia float too
ldquoIt is the 124th year for the parade (in 2013)rdquo Rodriguez said ldquoIt started at the turn of the century and it began as something to do with the fact that wersquore blessed with such beautiful weather usually most of the time and we show off our weather on New Years Day and show the beauty of flowers ndash Thatrsquos how the Tournament of Roses beganrdquo
The Tournament of Roses Parade and subsequent Rose Bowl sporting event is the United Statersquos New Years celebration and is witnessed by hun-
a world of possibilities
a float designer with a love of culture
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 23OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Wonderful Indonesiarsquos 2012 Rose Parade float
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY SARA LOVELACE
Across the world thousands of cultures exist each a unique blend of its own different factors The east and the west north and south the UK and the US Hispanic and Asian black and white ndash these distinctions exist all around the world combining together and creating unique possibilities
Possibilities are what the most famous float designers draw upon to complete unique entertaining and simply stunning visual representations of these combinations and this year float designer Raul Rodriguez became part of his own possibility Jan 2 by blending his Hispanic heritage with the Republic of Indonesiarsquos heritage by riding their float which became his 500th Rose Paradereg float design
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash knowing people and knowing the diversity of people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know if I could design like I dordquo
Adding an extra twist to the mix of possibilities in 2012rsquos Rose Parade was Rodriguezrsquos rare Amazonian blue hyacinth mccaw Sebastian on the Indonesia float too
ldquoIt is the 124th year for the parade (in 2013)rdquo Rodriguez said ldquoIt started at the turn of the century and it began as something to do with the fact that wersquore blessed with such beautiful weather usually most of the time and we show off our weather on New Years Day and show the beauty of flowers ndash Thatrsquos how the Tournament of Roses beganrdquo
The Tournament of Roses Parade and subsequent Rose Bowl sporting event is the United Statersquos New Years celebration and is witnessed by hun-
a world of possibilities
a float designer with a love of culture
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 23OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Wonderful Indonesiarsquos 2012 Rose Parade float
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Wonderful Indonesiarsquos 2012 Rose Parade float
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
dreds of thousands on the parade route and millions around the world each year The event ndash which in-cludes floats marching bands and equestrian troupes generally - takes place Jan 1 or Jan 2 if Jan 1 falls on a Sunday because superstition states that the Rose Parade will never take place on a Sunday ndash the day of rest ndash if God will grant them no rain on parade day
Each year the Rose Parade has a theme and each entity in the float
portion of the Rose Parade cre-ates a float to that theme with only organic materials and compete for awards some-thing Rodriguez is familiar with as the most deco-rated Rose Parade designer ever Last year alone with 46 floats in the Rose Parade he created 11 of them and won six awards including
the highest honor for Dolersquos ldquoPre-serving Paradiserdquo
Creating designs for 2013 has already begun though Right now he is working on floats for China Airlines the Republic of Indonesia and a few others and ldquotheyrsquore look-ing pretty goodrdquo he said In cel-ebration of Rodriguezrsquo 500th Rose Parade float Indonesia designated him a goodwill ambassador of their country and presented him with a ceremonial sword called a keris and a traditional outfit to wear on the float
ldquoWe are very proud and pleased to be Raulrsquos 500th floatrdquo Vice-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Sapta Nirwandar stated in a press release earlier this year ldquoWe have a long relationship with Raul He has traveled extensively through-out Indonesia and has captured the essence of our incredibly diverse nation with his designs He is able to convey the many adventures await-ing a visitor to Indonesia the lush and rugged landscapes of our thou-sands of islands our unique and exotic animal and plant life and our fascinating culturesrdquo
But he did not get to where he is by one day saying ldquoHey Irsquoll design floatsrdquo He has designed floats for the Portland Rose Festival and been in-volved with Mardi Graz the Worldrsquos Fair and the Olympics when it was in Los Angeles in 1984 He even designed a float for the Flamingo Hilton before he was even able to gamble ndash just 20-years-old ndash and is the man responsible for Disneyrsquos 50th birthday celebration parade floats
But Rodriguez always admired the Rose Parade and remembered telling his father ldquoI can do that I think I can do that ndash Irsquom pretty sure I could do thatrdquo So in truth it all began at home His mother is also an artist as is his great uncle and they pushed him to express his cre-ativity through guidance and their own works In the case of his moth-er she was his biggest supporter but also his biggest critic
ldquoShe would stand behind me and see something on my desk and say lsquowhat about thisrsquordquo Rodriguez said of his motherrsquos influence ldquoI always respected her critiques and it was
ldquoMy father believed in people and I think thatrsquos one thing that has really helped me ndash
knowing people and knowing the diversity of
people so I study all the ethnic backgrounds and cultures of
people If it wasnrsquot for feeling that way I donrsquot know
if I could design like I dordquo
- RAUL RODRIGUEZ
26 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
just great Both my parents are very instrumental in my career as far as helping me all along because Irsquom a great believer of education being the corner-stone of anything we do We do nothing alone It takes a village to do something powerful and I respect all the people I work for and work with Itrsquos just really beautiful that wayrdquo
He currently works with float builders Fiesta Parade Floats and Artistic Entertain-ment Services But before the float building companies before
the multitude of countries and with all the support of his family behind him he designed his first Rose Parade float concept at just 14 for a contest for the City of Whitter
ldquoI entered the contest and the honest truth is I didnrsquot know I placed in the contestrdquo Rodri-guez admitted ldquoAll the sudden wersquore at an awards ceremony at the high school and a man came up on stage with a huge trophy and I said lsquoGee I wonder what hersquos here forrsquo you know All the sudden I was frozen in my
seat when they called my name I thought lsquoWow there must be another Raul Rodriguez here because it canrsquot be mersquordquo
The prize was the float being in the Rose Parade when he was 15 ndash and his life was never the same ever again for the teenager that always admired but never dreamed of float designing professionally He never knew it was something he could do professionally and now calls himself ldquothe embryo stage of the designrdquo
ldquoWorking with the builder
Raul Rodriguez rode the Wonderful Indonesia float at the Rose Parade 2012 marking his 500th Rose Parade float
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 27OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
A concept sketch by Rodriguez for Paramountrsquos 100th anniversary 2012 Rose Parade float
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
clients and culminating into something so many people have the pleasure to work on from students to people of every walk of life and every age grouprdquo Ro-driguez explained ldquoWith the ju-veniles to the elderly everybody has a chance to work on the floats Itrsquos really become such a camaraderie and the expression of it is really phenomenalrdquo
Due to the nature of his work Rodriguez spends a lot of his time traveling doing re-search and enjoying time with his clients It was his travels that made him realize his home-grown parade was not ldquocollo-quialrdquo
ldquoI found because Irsquove de-signed for so many foreign
countries and places all over the world itrsquos really an event that captures the heart and thoughts of people from all over the worldrdquo he explained ldquoTo me I feel so honored to be part of something that hopefully does something to people positively and brings a smile If one of our designs or one of the things we present can bring a smile to someone then all our work is purposefulrdquo
For Rodriguez the world is a ldquorich tapestry of things that I knowrdquo He said it was the rea-son he could design floats for so many countries around the world including Mexico Costa Rica to Thailand to Korea to Nova Scotia His client list is
rich in history rich in culture To entwine that energy and beauty of cultures into a thing like the Tournament of Roses is ldquothrillingrdquo prospect His love of people is the key element in his ability to create and bring about those smiles from people around the world
ldquoThese are all things that have allowed me such a rich way of enjoying life and enjoy-ing people and thatrsquos something I am grateful for believe me because I know a lot of wonder-fully talented people and not everybody gets the break or be-ing at the right place at the right time and Irsquom a big believer in making things happen best you canrdquo
Paramount pictures celebrated its 100th year in 2012 and Rodriguez was the float de-signer behind its float featuring many of its popular movie titles
30 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Originally from Taipei Taiwan Ming-Pin Tien is a London-based fash-ion designer who recently graduated from the University of the Arts London ndash London College of Fashion
But Ming is no newcomer to the world of fashion design
He has been involved in the indus-try in a variety of capacities for the last nine years six months of which involved working as an assistant to Taiwanese designer Jolin Wu
Mingrsquos AutumnWinter 201213 col-lection entitled Metaphorical Distance is a striking range of coats boxy jackets dresses and casual wear all in shades of off-white The designer incorporates a
series of harness-like leather over jackets which give off a sense of restriction while at the same time being open and revealing The use of textures is extremely clever with many of the items decorated with raised dots in the fabric
ldquoThe fabrications are actually delivering a message using the Braille systemrdquo Ming told MANIERA recently ldquoIt is a system used by blind people and therefore the outcome appears as a code for most of us It also has delivered my main design aesthetic - You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to under-stand what is really happening Most of the time there is a very different story beneath the surfacerdquo
Ming also likes to conceal the body shape using for example the hunchback coat which he says ldquorepresents our immediate reaction when we feel threatenedrdquo
He is inspired by the paradox of secrecy which Ming regards as like a game of hide and seek
The Conceal|Reveal theorumLondon fashion graduate shows the story beneath the surface
Ming
32 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
ldquoYou are excited by conceal-ing yourself but also excited by the fact that you may be found out in a matter of timerdquo he elaborates
This notion of paradox is a continuing theme in his excit-ing brand-new SpringSum-mer 2013 collection recently premiered at London Fashion Week Entitled Portraits SS2013 finds the designer experiment-ing with colour and prints while retaining the superlative pat-tern cutting ability evidenced in his previous collection Softer draped textures are now com-bined with the signature boxy jackets while the concealreveal paradox is demonstrated by the clever slash sleeve
Asymmetric hemlines and frock coat tails with slit side skirts all echo Mingrsquos hide-and-
seek aesthetic The raised braille is gone but many of the items incor-porate a printed dot pattern often on the back of the item These are pieces to be viewed from all angles
The leather harnesses from the Meta-phorical Distance become more substantial in the Portraits col-lection culminating in a full-length coat with faux sleeves and riveted together by metal fasteners Again the peek-a-boo concept is used to full-effect with the use of the leather fret-work effect allowing tantalising glimpses of what lies beneath
Ming is a concept designer but much of his collection is ex-tremely wearable The cropped jackets knee-length pants and bold zig zag print shirt dress for example would prove to be very versatile pieces for next spring The cut of the clothes and the soft textures make these easy clothes to wear while at the same time screaming effortless chic and style
You need to take a much closer look at everything in order to understand
what is really happening Most of the time there is
a very different story beneath the surface
- MING
Turn the page to take a look at the springsummer 2013 collection ldquoPortraits SS2013rdquo from LONDON FASHION WEEK
34 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|KAMIL SZKOPIK
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
PORT
RAITS
SS2
013
BY M
ING
AT
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEE
K
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
Nestling between France and the Netherlands the small lowlands country of Bel-gium may not be the obvious place to look for underwa-ter photographers But hus-band and wife team Walter DrsquoHaese and Yolande Van Saet are a pair of talented amateur photographers who travel the world from their home base just outside An-twerp Belgium to produce some breathtaking images of life on the coral reefs
The couple started their hobby in 2000 qualifying for their diving certificates in De-
cember in the icy cold water of the North Sea
ldquoI remember having to stand under a hot shower to warm up because our hands were too cold to take the wetsuits offrdquo Van Saet said ldquoWe must have been crazyrdquo
No wonder then that the warm waters of the tropics seemed a more attractive proposition The team made their first warm water dive in Los Roques a small island off Venezuela and never stopped since
ldquoWe just come on land to make some money to be able to travel and go diving againrdquo Van Seat explained
Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea
Yolande Van Saet explores the last frontier on Earth
42 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spend their spare time traveling the worldrsquos water bodies capturing the unique ocean wild-life CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT mdash a box-fish a cowrie a nudi an egg cowrie a goby and husband Walter DrsquoHease shot Van Saet through coral Van Saet is espe-cially fond of macro photography mdash or getting up really close on small subjects
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Van Saet and her husband spotted this ornate ghost pipefish while on a dive
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
It was DrsquoHaese who first started to take the under-water photographs using a basic point and shoot cam-era in a cheap casing but quickly moved on to a more sophisticated single-lens reflex camera Initially Van Saet was more interested in relaxing however and enjoying the wildlife but in 2006 she be-came bored waiting around for her husband to get his shots and decided to have a go herself
The team have travelled widely including trips to the Indian Ocean the Pacific South Africa Mozambique and Costa Rica
For the sheer diversity of marine life Van Saet recom-mends the seas of South East Asia while the Maldives are great for the larger pelag-ics Pelagics are fish that live on the surface of the water rather than the bottom or on the reefs These include fish such as whale sharks and manta rays For impressive hard corals and fabulous reef life she suggests Egypt where-as the ldquo Galapogos and Coco Island is adrenaline div-ing where you can find sharks and sealsrdquo
DrsquoHaese is the more ex-perimental of the two us-ing a range of macro and wide-angle lenses whereas Van Saet tends to stick to her 60mm lens But because they work as a team this has its advantages
ldquoWhen something big
comes by like a manta I can only shoot an eye with my 60mm while my hubby can shoot the entire mantardquo Van Saet said ldquoOn the other hand when we come across a pygmy seahorse I can take pictures and he canrsquotrdquo
As well as the lens choice taking photographs below water means that the choice of lighting can be critical The deeper underwater you go the more colours you lose Red is the first to go followed by yellow until only blue is visible You can use white balance to compensate but that only works in clear water and with plenty of sunlight To get their images Van Saet and DrsquoHaese use strobe lights small detatachable flash lights attached to move-able arms on the camera housing
ldquoLighting underwater can be tricky you need the light to shine on your subject but you donrsquot want to light all the little particles in the waterrdquo Van Saet explained ldquoIt takes some practice to get that rightrdquo
Another tip to getting great underwater shots is buoyancy control Von Saet points out that if you are not absolutely still you will kick up the sand and damage the coral which is already under environmental threat She has seen the devastation caused by dynamite fishing in South East Asia which blows away entire coral reefs and takes
46 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Multiple types of scorpion fish exist in the world
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Despite the sharkrsquos bad rep several species are safe to swim with including this grey reef shark from the Maldives
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
decades to recover if indeed they recover at all She has also witnessed a marked decline in the shark population over the last 12 years and found illegal nets in a marine-protected area in the Phil-ippines with a dead turtle and a dead baby shark trapped inside
ldquoThere are a lot of marine pro-tected areas in the world and more and more sordquo Von Saet said ldquoThatrsquos a good thing but when there is no control the ille-gal fishing goes on Of course the fisherman in a small boat trying to feed his family does not do harm to the ecosystemrdquo
Despite the serious approach the couple takes to their craft there have been comical inci-dents underwater One involved a very curious hawksbill turtle which decided that the diverrsquos glove and hose looked like a tasty meal and began to nibble on them As Von Saet gently pushed the creature away the turtle swam to another diver and pushed against the diverrsquos tank as if he wanted a ride The view was so funny that the entire party flooded their div-ing masks laughing
With this incident in mind Von Saet finds it impossible to choose her favourite marine creature
ldquoOctopus for their strange intelligence and their ability to change their skin colour and texture mandarin fish for their beautiful colours frogfish for their cute weirdness and so on and so on the list is endlessrdquo she said ldquoand also sharks for their grace but the most impressive fish I ever saw on a dive was a sailfishrdquo
Just back from a trip the couple are already thinking of the next place on their itinerary They have a long wish list of places they still want to visit especially French Polynesia and other Pacific locations But the next stop will be in December when they return to Indonesia for a diving trip around the beautiful waters surrounding Flores and Komodo
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT mdash Van Saet has shot ju-venile sweetlips juvenile batfish and even small pinkish shrimp hidden in anemones
|YOLANDE VAN SAET
50 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
HEALTH amp BEAUTY
Dark Circles Crows Feetamp
52 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAIA SMITH has nearly 20 years of experience in skin research and product development Her expertise in skin care and anti-aging has helped produce several natural anti-aging products She is a founder and CEO of Renu Derma Natural Cosmetics where she works closely with FDA approved organic lab to develop new effective products for the Renu Derma For more information visit renudermacom
ell we all have them after 35 and we all hate them
The development of small crow`s feet or shadows beneath the eyes (dark circles) can be the first signs that our skin is not as youthful and elastic as it once was
There are many large beauty companies who advertise creams and lotions that claim to deal with these problems However in reality their effect is limited
Dark Circles Please be aware that dark circles
can`t be improved with creams Do not buy expensive creams and hope for a miracle Creams contain-ing bleach are dangerous and can contribute to more wrinkles Dark circles can be the result of genetics or lifestyle factors including smoking alcohol and caffeine
Also other possible causes could be iron deficiency hormonal imbal-ance oxygen deficiency and can show up when you not getting enough sleep If you have dark circles slow down on concealer and please con-sult with your physician
Under Eye Bags Problems with kidneys can be the
cause of bags under the eyes Drink-
ing less amount of water after 6 pm may help to reduce this problem for some people
However to avoid ldquopuffy eyesrdquo dermatologists recommend using eye creams one hour prior bed time A diet with low-sodium food will help you to reduce the puffiness and re-member to avoid heavy eye creams
Crows Feet Better news for this problem For
mild to moderate depth lines and wrinkles using under eye creams containing Lanolin Vitamin E and Antioxidants daily is very important You can prevent and restore lines and wrinkles before they become deep-set Using eye creams daily is very important
ldquoNon-surgicalrdquo options such as Botox and Fillers also available and may be recommended by a prac-titioner skilled in these treatments
The feature of most of these is that they are generally quick safe and ef-fective ways of improving these types of wrinkles
Overall if you maintain healthy life style have balanced diet drink plenty of water have good night sleep and follow Natural Skin Care Regi-men you will achieve rdquoBeautiful Yourdquo from inside out and will look young and healthy in any age
W
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 53OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MANI STYLE
BY JULIETTE LORD
l i t t l e b l a c k
dress|NATZUKA MILIANDROVIC
THE
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
eaders of Vogue in Oc-tober 1926 were intro-duced to ldquothe frock that all the world will wearrdquo Nicknamed the ldquoFordrdquo Chanelrsquos straight-lined
black day dress became an iconic fashion item which has never fallen out of style in the intervening 86 years
In fact Chanel had been design-ing little black dresses from as early as 1915 and other French designers were also designing in black which until then had traditionally been the colour of mourning rather than glamour Perhaps the most famous of all the ldquolittle black dressesrdquo (LBD) was designed not by Chanel but by Givenchy and modelled by the stunning Audrey Hepburn in the film ldquoBreakfast At Tiffanyrsquosrdquo (1961) Simple to wear and with a time-less elegance the LBD can be worn by women of all ages shapes and sizes and is a must-have item in any womanrsquos wardrobe
Today there are a multitude of LBDs on the market all taking the simplicity of the original garccedilonne Chanel design as a starting point
Where better to start shopping than the aptly named Little Black Dress website which boasts ldquothe greatest collection of LBDrsquos and party dresses in the Worldrdquo
Although a UK-based company you can order from outside the UK by contacting them by phone at 00 (44) 161 277 7046 or by e-mail at hellolittleblackdresscouk
Prices start from as little as pound15 (approximately $25 USD) up to dresses which cost over pound500 ($812 USD approximately) Sizes on the site range from a BritishAustralian
size 4 (USA size 1 European size 32) to BritishAustralian size 20 (USA size 16 European size 48)
Lightintheboxcom is based in the USA but offer a single price for shoppers the world over
They have a helpful price con-version rate on the site which is also translated into 12 different languages
A personal favourite is the Dahli Faux Leather dress by Karl available from net a porter which have websites for customers world-wide
This dress has a fabulous cut and is a fantastic combination of elegance and edginess
If you want a customised LBD then the people at perfectlittleblack-dresscom can design one for you in just 15 days You have the option to take your own measurements and send them in or go for a personal measurement service if you live within travelling distance of Lon-don New York Paris Los Angeles or Miami London customers can even have a fitting in their home Design elements are created by graduates of the prestigious London College of Fashion and St Martins School of Art and there is advice on choosing a flattering style for your particular body shape
If you are feeling inspired and want to make your own LBD then The Little Black Dress How to Make the Perfect One for You by Si-mon Henry is a great place to start Beautifully illustrated it takes you step-by-step through fabric choice pattern making and even down to the small details of which type of fastener to use
R
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 55OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
MAN STYLE
THE RIGHT FIT
Finding the right jeans for any occasion
BY WESLEY BOUCHARD
en letrsquos talk about pants specifically
jeans Chances are that many of you reading this are wearing a pair right now but are your jeans the right ones for you
The classic five-pocket jean has become a wonder-fully adaptive staple of any good wardrobe It still succeeds at being excellent work wear but has also made its way into casual and even semi-formal outfits From t-shirts to blaz-ers the right pair of jeans will go with many pieces and make you look good while doing it
Roll up your sleeves gents Itrsquos time to get into the nitty-gritty Letrsquos talk about some different fits and which one
M
|VER
ON
ICA
DEP
RATO
56 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
is right for you Some com-mon jean fits are skinny slim straight relaxed and boot Keep in mind that the exact fit will vary slightly as you go from brand to brand
bull SKINNY FIT unless you have a burning desire to make your legs look like those of a chicken stay away from this cut Leave the skin tight jeans for your girl
bull SLIM FIT is not as tight as skinny cut This is the one for those of you with a truly skinny build Maybe you didnrsquot play full-back on your high school soccer team but you run an annual marathon with ease Try the slim cut on your next night out
bull STRAIGHT FIT is where itrsquos at for most men This is the cut for the average male and is a solid win when matched appropriately with the rest of your ensemble If you arenrsquot a marathoner or body builder start here
bull RELAXED FIT is a great choice for work jeans Theyrsquore roomier than the other fits but still look great when properly cared for Also if yoursquove got meatier thighs Mr Universe yoursquoll want to try this fit
bull BOOT CUT jeans do not flare as much as bell bottoms and are much more appeal-ing than that wild 70s fashion These will work for most body types I would still lean you to-wards straight fit but make your style your own Donrsquot be afraid
to try theseFrom that starting point
remember to keep the jeans simple Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impres-sion Looking like yoursquove been rolling around under an inter-state bridge isnrsquot going to ac-complish that Part of looking simple is looking clean A brand tag on the belt line and conserva-tive rivets around the five pockets are fine but you donrsquot need plastic gemstones and loud designs on your back-side or excessive pockets up and down your legs Another good rule to looking presentable is choosing darker dyed denim most commonly indigo While there is a place for white jeans lighter denims nicknamed ldquodad jeansrdquo tend to look messy and very out of place Darker colors have always been accepted as a dressier look
Now try them with a white oxford shirt and navy blazer for a handsome night out Even if you donrsquot feel like you need the blazer remember that your girl will appreciate it once the night starts to cool Take care men and stay sharp
Donrsquot buy into those ripped and holey fashions You want to make a good impression Looking like
yoursquove been rolling around under an interstate
bridge isnrsquot going to accomplish that
More of fitting styling and denim
history at MYMANIERACOM
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 57OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
BY CYNTIA ARANDAY
It is sad to hear from my friends abroad about their opinions of Mex-ico City Some will only talk about what they experience while visiting while others will only refer to either stereotypes or news of Mexico City portrayed in the media abroad - but Mexico City is so much more than that
It is not just stealing and tequila or partying and muggings it is also culture and passion that fills every corner of every street in Mexico City If you allow the city to entangle you in its webs you will not be dis-appointed about what this beautiful rich and gorgeous city has to offer
Mexico City was first founded by the great civilization called the Mex-icas later to be known as the Aztecs
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
58 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Independence Monu-ment stands as a testament to Mexico Cityrsquos resilience
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
The city was first founded on a lake Mexicas would build chinampas a special kind of plot that remains on the water in order to cultivate and travel along the whole lake where they were prosperous in agricul-ture When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica temples so that in this way the center of
Mexico City was constructed on top of the chinampas on top of the lake
Time went by and Mexico suf-fered several changes from the government of Spain to the inde-pendence of Mexico later on Mex-ico went through several kinds of government but none as successful as presidency
Mexico City first became a bea-con of cosmopolitan societies when president Porfirio Diaz took control of Mexico from 1876 to 1911 the 35-year period known as El Por-firiato taking upon himself the task of transforming Mexico City into a very chic and cosmopolitan city that could easily compare to any Euro-pean city of the time
However outside Mexico City things were different and poverty and lack of conformity grew until eventually a revolution took place between 1910-20 and the current Mexico City started shaping itself into what we all see right now
Mexico City is considered the biggest city in the world not only for the amount of people living in it but also because of the amount of different cultural and scenarios that
When the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521 they ordered
the constructions of temples and houses on top of the Mexica
temples so that in this way the center of Mexico City was constructed on top of the
chinampas on top of the lake
An enchanted cityMEXICO CITY
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 59OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
The Revolution Monument
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Templo Mayor - OutsideTemplo Mayor - Outside
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
|Cyntia Aranday
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
National Museum of Art
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world still hosting daily Catholic masses
|CYNTIA ARANDAY
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
it offers such as Templo Mayor and Catedral Metropolitana de Mexico
Templo Mayor is the remains of the largest temple in ancient Tenochtitlan It was accidentally discovered by workers of the electric company in 1978 and is considered one of the biggest findings in Mexi-can archeological history
Catedral Metropolitana (Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral) is one of the biggest cathedrals in the world with a lenght of 360 feet and a width of 179 feet It took over 200 years to finish its construc-tion between 1573 and 1813 and it shows a mixture of different styles from renaissance to baroque to neo-classic It has two towers with a ldquobell finishrdquo something never seen in any other cathedral making it unique in the world Catholic masses are still performed inside this church every day and also guided visits are offered to see what the gorgeous building holds inside
A little ahead of these two build-ings is Palacio de Bellas Artes a con-cert hall that holds also a museum and several exhibition galleries con-structed in the late 19th century in a mixture of art deco and art noveau style It holds inside a gorgeous Tif-fany amp Coreg curtain especially made for this beautiful palace especially commissioned by the architect and the government due to the beauty of the same and the fact that Tiffany amp Co was a beacon of Art Nouveau The Palacio de Bellas Artes cur-rently holds constant exhibitions from abroad as well as a permanent collection and the theater is still used several times a year and the National Museum of Art holds a
large number of the most important pieces exhibited in Mexico
With a little over 150 museums within its length Mexico City is regarded as a must-visit city when it comes to culture From the cultural-ly-charged Museo Nacional de Arte (National Museum of Art) located just a block away from Bellas Artes to the chic Museo Rufino Tamayo located in Chapultepec Mexico City has a lot to offer regarding that area
But very personally I would have to say Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepecrsquos Castle) is my favorite not only because of the incredible history behind this castle but also due to the beauty of the architec-ture richness of its halls and history of each room It explains a little bit more about the times when the Mexican monarchist brought Maxi-milian I to establish once more the Mexican monarchy however this plan failed and
Last but not least Mexican cuisine
It is one of the richest in the world with delicious ingredients that can be tasted in many different parts of the city but if what you want is an experience going downtown and getting breakfast in Sanborns Los Azulejos going to lunch in Cafe Opera or finally enjoying a classi-cal churro with chocolate caliente (churro with hot cocoa) in Cafe Tacuba
As you can see Mexico City has a lot more to offer than the violence and ignorance sometimes portrayed in the media Mexico City is a city that lives day-to-day Why donrsquot you come on over and allow Mexico City to capture you in its magical spell
mymanieracom | MANIERA | 67OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012
ContaCt us
MANIERA LLCPO Box 15379
Washington DC 20003(202) 294-4147
68 | MANIERA | mymanieracom OCTOBER 2012