Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshirID: 201000040000813th Batch (session 2009-2013)Department : Wet Processing Technology Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.comBlog : www. Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)

Southeast University Department Of Textile Engineering

I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh

Prepared By :

Total Textile Process at a Glance

MARKERDEFINITION It is a thin paper which contains all

necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garments. It gives special instruction for cutting. It can

be done both manually and

computerized method.

Figure :Marker

• In computerized method all information’s are stored in the pre-fashioned data file and an operator helps the computer to make the best choice.

• Marker width is taken according to the fabric width. Fabric spreading should be done by taking the guideline form marker length.

• Fabric width must be higher than marker width (1/2”).

• Fabric length must be higher than marker length (1”+1”).

• Length of cutting table should be considered.

• Plan of garments production should also be considered.

• When pattern pieces are laid down on the layer fabric, the grain line should be parallel to the line of the warp in a woven fabric and Wales in knit fabric where pattern pieces are laid across the layers, the line is kept parallel to weft / course.

• All the pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same direction when laid down on asymmetric fabric.

CONSTRAINTS OF MARKER MAKING:

Grain line: All patterns must have to be aligned in relation

to the grain line. Pattern pieces carries the grain line should be parallel to the warp or Wales. When pattern pieces are laid across the fabric, the grain line laid parallel to the weft or course direction.

Symmetry or asymmetry of fabric: The fabrics, which retain the same appearance

after turning it by 180° are symmetric fabrics. Asymmetrical fabrics are those which show different appearance when they are turned 180°. The marker should be planned in such a way that it is in accordance with asymmetry of the fabric. All the pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same direction when laid on an asymmetric fabric.

• Cutting quality: In garments industries fabric is cut form

lay and spreading with accuracy and properly which is termed as fabric cutting. Marker out line is used to cut the fabric. Fabric cutting is very important as if some thing is cut in wrong way, can not be rectified.

Cutting quality ↑ Production ↑ Profit ↑

• Production planning :

Production planning must have to be compatible with the marker plan. When an order is placed for a quantity of garments normally specifies a quantity of each size and color. If the sewing room requires the cut work urgently the marker planner makes two markers –

1. Short marker.2. Long marker. Short marker – Less opportunities for

saving the wastage. Long marker – More opportunities for

saving the wastage.

Long markerLong marker

Short markerShort marker

The marker planner measures his success by the efficiency of the marker plan. The following formula is used to measure the efficiency:

Marker efficiency = (Area of the pattern in the marker plan / Total area of the marker plan)

*100 % Marker efficiency ↑ Fabric wastage ↓ Profit

FACTORS RELATED TO MARKER EFFICIENCY:

• Marker planner: Marker efficiency dependents on experience,

honesty, sincerity, trial and technological knowledge. The more, the number of markers, the more is the possibility to get higher efficiency.

• Pattern engineering:Marker efficiency can be increased by

changing the pattern according to the rule. Such as a big component can be divided into two parts. This will help to save the fabric wastages.

• Size of garments: The more the number of the pattern sizes is including, the more possibility

into get more efficiency.• Marker length: Higher marker length, higher the efficiency. It can also help to increase the

production of cutting room.

• Fabric characteristics: Symmetrical fabrics are those which are similar to all directions. Marker

efficiency is good in those types of fabrics. However, marker efficiency will be less for asymmetrical fabrics.

• Marker making method :We can generally make markers by two

methods. They are manual and computerized. Computerized marker is more efficient when it is done interactively with the planner so marker efficiency varies from method to method. Sometimes a skilled operator can make more efficient marker than computer.

• Marker width : The more the fabric width, the easier to plan

or make marker which will increase the efficiency.

• Style of garments :There are some garments which have only

large patterns such as overcoat. If there are less number of small components, the marker will be less efficient.

Marker efficiency increases according to the minimization of fabric wastage out of the marker

• Ends of ply losses :

Some allowances are needed in the of each pieces of fabric during fabric spreading because of limitation of utilized machines. Usually 2" in each end and on each ply 4 inch wastages are happened.

• Loss of fabric in roll :

Fabrics usually come in roll form in garments industries. There are the limitations of fabric length in each roll. Fabric spreading is done according to marker length. As a result some wastages of fabrics are found at every roll. Thus we have to do splicing sometimes.

• Selvedge loss:

Each fabric has two selvedge.Mostly we do not place the pattern

components over the selvedges.Thus approximately 3% fabrics are

wasted along width.If the fabric is very expensive and extensible,we

can save some fabric by wasting 2% along width.

• Purches loss:

Fabric length is identified by fabric manufacturer and

suppliers.Somtimes less fabric is wound than the exact amount in

the roll so before purchasing the length should be measured and

fabrics should be scoured only from the reputed manufacturer.

Pattern pieces on marker paper

Drawn marker paper

CONCLUSIONWe have visited ” NASSA GROUP ”

which is situated of Gazipur. It is well management garments. Every section of this garments is very clean and secured. Almost 6500 worker work this garments and those people are also facilited. The executive manager and the paying directors were very helping and we have gain our knowledge above on marker efficiency. We have got clear concept from this visit that will be

very helpful for our future life.

1. Yarn Manufacturing TechnologyLink : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Yarn-Manufacturing-Technology/485014954866808

2. Fabric Manufacturing TechnologyLink : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fabric-Manufacturing-Technology/459520217425605

3. Garments Manufacturing TechnologyLink : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Garments-Manufacturing-Technology/472364799463126

3. Wet processing TechnologyLink : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wet-Processing-Technology-Dyeing-/468645219825404

4. Fashion-Design-and-TechnologyLink : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fashion-Design-and-Technology/587655294583875?ref=ts&fref=ts

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