masterclass in wet cleaning and solvetex vi - the international committee of textile care · 2017....
TRANSCRIPT
Masterclass in wet cleaning and Solvetex VI
The Worldwide Standard in Wet Cleaning
JET EXPO Saturday, October 14
CINETInternational
Committee for
Professional Textile
Care (PTC)
>90 Members worldwide
Network of 2500+ Industry Experts
400.000+ companies
~2.5 million jobs
• Organize a network of business experts to improve information exchange.
• Stimulate innovation and best practices in sustainability, safety and profitability.
• Profiling and promoting the capabilities of the Professional Textile Care (PTC) Industry.
• Design, support and execute projects and activities to the benefit of the members worldwide.
CINET Objectives
Profile & Activity Plan 2017- 2018
Trade Magazines
Trade Shows
W www.cinet-online.com
@CINET_PTC
Dr. ir. Henk Gooijer
Technical project manager
TKT (NL)
Hello!
1. Wet cleaning
Laundry
process
Dry
cleaning
process
Wet
cleaning
process
Type of
textilesMajority
garmentsSensitive garments
Cleaning
liquidWater Solvent Water
What is wet cleaning?
• Wet cleaning is not the same as laundry
• Wet cleaning is a water based cleaning technology meant for
sensitive garments
• Wet cleaning is an alternative technology to dry cleaning
• Wet cleaning requires dedicated machines and chemistry to
achieve optimal results
1. Wet cleaning
Which garments can be wet cleaned?
• Estimated 80-90% of the articles marked with the P-label are fit for
wet cleaning
• The wet cleaning presents risks for a few types of articles (e.g.
shrinking, delaminating)
• All articles marked with the wet cleaning symbol, the W, are fit for
wet cleaning
• The wet cleaning symbol is unfortunately
not often seen
1. Wet cleaning
Which garments can be wet cleaned?
• All articles marked with the washing symbol are fit for wet cleaning
• No symbols? You are not covered when wet cleaning and therefore
liable for damage.
It is then on your expertise and experience
1. Wet cleaning
I. The wet cleaning process uses water as solvent.
II. Low level of chemical and mechanical action at a low
temperature to prevent textile damage
III.The wet cleaning process is different from the standard
washing processes.
IV.Wet cleaning machines are different from standard
washing machines
1. Wet cleaning
The wet cleaning process consists out of different processing
steps
1) Spotting
2) Cleaning
3) Spinning
4) Drying
5) Finishing
2. Wet cleaning process
2.1 Spotting
• Cleaning performance of the wet cleaning system is strongly influenced
by (pre)spotting
• Spotting is only required to remove stains which are not removed in the
standard cleaning cycle (e.g. non water soluble stains)
• Intake and inspection of garments is important to decide whether
spotting is required
2. Wet cleaning process
2.2 Cleaning
The wet cleaning process can be schematized by Sinner’s circle in the
same way as a laundry process
The cleaning is described as a synergistic function of chemical action,
cycle time, mechanical action and temperature.
Synergistic means that the combined actions are more effective than
just the sum of the individual actions.
2. Wet Cleaning Process
The Sinner’s circle for a laundry process
2. Wet cleaning process
2.2 Cleaning
The wet cleaning uses generally:
• A low temperature (between 20-30°C)
• A low level of mechanical action (often the moving action happens during
only 3-10 seconds per minute)
• A short cycle time
This is required to prevent textile damage and therefore enables cleaning of
sensitive garments
2. Wet cleaning process
Washing Time
Temperature of
washing
Chemicals
Mechanical
Washing Action
The Circle of Sinner of wet cleaning
2. Wet cleaning process
2.2 Cleaning
The mechanical action
A wet cleaning machines has a number of programmable parameters related to mechanical action:
• Time of rotation versus time of standing still, drum movement only 3-10 seconds per minute
• Loading ratio 1:25 – 50-60% of loading capacity is recommended
• Quantity of water, liquor ratio is 5 litre per kg textile
• Speed of rotation
• Rotation direction
2. Wet cleaning process
The mechanical action in wet cleaning
2. Wet cleaning process
Mechanical action in
standard washing
Lower level of Mechanical
action in wet cleaning
2.2 Cleaning
The chemical action
The wet cleaning requires special mild detergents and chemicals for proper
cleaning and to prevent textile damages
• Cleaning process with water.
• Water can remove all water soluble soil but water cannot dissolve oil and
grease
2. Wet cleaning process
2.2 Cleaning
The chemical action
• Detergents are needed for the removal of grease and oily stains
• Generally, the pure detergent products for wet cleaning have a pH
between 6 and 8.
• Standard laundry detergents have a much higher pH (they are highly
alkaline) which can damage sensitive garments.
2. Wet cleaning process
2.2 Cleaning
The chemical action
• Most common also a conditioner is added
• The conditioner prevents excessive crease and deformation, especially
during the spinning and drying process
• The conditioner is designed to have antistatic properties
2. Wet cleaning process
2.2 Cleaning
Cleaning time
• The cycling time of each phase of the process cycle is programmable in a wet cleaning machine
• Cycle times are short, again to prevent textile damage.
General settings:
• The total cycle time is between 20-35 minutes
• Some programs require additional pre-washing
• Generally, one bath takes 5-10 minutes
• The rinsing cycle time is between 2-4 minutes
2. Wet cleaning process
2.2 Cleaning
Temperature of Cleaning
• Generally, the starting water temperature is the
temperature of the tap water.
• Cleaning temperatures between 20-30°C are most
common.
• Important is that the heating unit is not close
to the textiles to prevent uneven heating.
2. Wet cleaning process
2.7 Drying
Drying is required to removed excess water, not all water!
• Overdrying must be avoided to prevent textile damage
• The dryer can have a residual moisture controller which stops when
the textile is dry enough.
2. Wet cleaning proocess
2.4 Drying
• Drying is performed in a separate dryer
• The temperature is carefully controlled electronically
• Usually, the air temperature is kept below 60°C .
2. Wet cleaning proocess
2.5 Finishing
Finishing is a very important step in wet cleaning
to control the deformation of the fabric. Every item
should be properly finished to maintain high quality
• Control deformation, bring back to original shape
• Removal of crease
• 20-30% extra finishing time compared to dry
cleaning
2. Wet cleaning process
Wet cleaning machines, cleaning and drying,
look like laundry machines, but have some
special features.
Wet cleaning machines can be used for laundry
Laundry machines can not be used for wet
cleaning
3. Machine technology
• Load capacity (4-19 kg)
• Typically 1 kg textile per 25 litre drum volume
• Typically 5 litre of water per kg textile
• Automatic dosing of detergents
• Difference with normal laundry machine
• Drum
• Programmability
• Heating
• Temperature control
3. Machine technology
Drum
• Mild mechanical action
• Normal drums causes pilling
• Wet cleaning drum
• Water as “cushion”
• Rotating starts after filling
of the drum
3. Machine technology
Programmability
• Very precise settings
• processing time
• rotational speed
• spinning speed
• standstill time
• temperature
• dosing
• several pre-set programs
3. Machine technology
Solvetex IV Wet cleaning results
Quality benchmarking of practical wet cleaning systems for CINET, as
performed by TKT
The evaluation of the wet cleaning systems is based on the following criteria:
• Stain removal (of model soil on multi soil monitoring swatches)
• Greying of cotton and wool (on the test swatches)
• Deformation or shrinkage (of the textile package and test swatches)
3. Machine technology
Conclusions on the performance of wet cleaning systems
• Good cleaning performance
• Greying is acceptable
• Deformation is acceptable
• Finishing is a very important step to bring the pieces back in shape and
remove crease
• Small differences in performance of the tested wet cleaning system
3. Machine technology
4. Overview pro’s and con’s
Critical issues Advantages
Care labelling Good removal of
water soluble stains
De-laminating,
bubbling
Smells fresh and
nice touch
Shrinkage No use of solvent
Labour costs
(finishing)
Less legislation
Spotting process
.
5. Developments in wet cleaning
Development in wet cleaning is strong:
Focus in development is on the reduction of cost price by improved
process efficiency (productivity), with an equal or better product
quality:
- Chemistry (more gentle, better stain and spot removal)
- Machines (more gentle mechanical action)
.
5. Developments in wet cleaning
Individual manufacturers claim higher productivity because of:
- Less spotting time as a result of better stain and soil removal
- Higher loading capacity of the machine because of more gentle
mechanical action and chemistry
- Introduction of real dry-to-dry processes
- Less additional finishing required because of more gentle
mechanical action and chemistry
.
5. Developments in wet cleaning
The total processing time (spotting time, machine time and finishing
time) is claimed to become more or less equal to that of the present
dry cleaning processes.
Individual manufacturers also claim a better product quality,
especially a lower level of shrinkage and wrinkling because of more
gentle mechanical action and chemistry.
Participants
1. Büfacare
2. Kreussler
3. Electrolux
4. Cole&Wilson
5. Seitz
6. Alliance
7. Street’s
6. Solvetex VI
Project objectives
• Evaluate the performance of wet cleaning processes by setting a
minimum of performance requirements to give an actual picture of
the quality of the current wet cleaning technology.
• Quality aspects to be incorporated are stain removal, greying,
crimp and crease.
• Wet clean processes meeting the minimum requirements will be
rewarded with a statement of achievement by CINET.
6. Solvetex VI
Textile package existing of:
• A men’s blazer (mixed synthetic fibres)
• A men’s blazer (100% wool)
• A women’s sweater (wool/polyamide)
Test materials for the assessment:
• Model fabric with standard stains for spot removal
• Model fabric wool for shrinkage and greying
6. Solvetex VI
Measurement procedure
Stain removal
• The test swatches (MSM) consist of a (PES/CO)carrier material on which different textile samples withsoil are attached
• After the cleaning cycle the swatches are removed.The soil removal is measured
• Non-soluble stains: sebum (wool), cacao/Lanolin, oliveoil/carbon, mineral oil/carbon, sebum (pes/cotton),sebum, egg yolk, grass, make-up and lipstick.
• Water soluble stains: red wine, coffee, tea,blood/milk/ink, blood, spinach (wool).
6. Solvetex VI
Measurement procedure
Shrinkage
• The model fabric of wool for shrinkage aremarked with “measuring stripes”. Thedistances between the stripes are measuredin warp and weft direction before and after 1,3, 7 and 10 cleaning cycles.
• The shrinkage is measured before and afterfinishing
Greying
• The greying is also measured. The differencein whiteness between the not cleaned sampleand cleaned sample is measured.
6. Solvetex VI
Measurement procedure
Appearance
• The samples will also be visually evaluated to report on
felting, creases, etc.
• All samples will be tested after drying and after finishing
with regard to the finishing aspects (crease and hand).
The garments will be finished on a ironing board. The
test garment will be evaluated after drying and after a
finishing step used normally in the wet cleaning test
location.
6. Solvetex VI
Time planning
• The project is running now at a research
institute
• The final results of Solvetex VI are expected by
the end of 2-017
6. Solvetex VI
Wet cleaning performance standard
• Based on historical research and data
• Based on the well-accepted performance criteria of dry cleaning
processes
• Relevant quality aspects of wet cleaning process
• Stain removal
• Water and non water soluble stains
• Shrinkage
• Wool and cotton
• Greying
• Finishing quality
• Garments
7. A worldwide standard in wet cleaning
Wet cleaning performance standard
Stain removal
• Measurement with tristumulus colorimeter, measuring blue remission
(Rb)
• Water soluble stains: e.g. Σ Rb, watersoluble > 125
• Non water soluble stains: e.g. Σ Rb, non watersoluble > 100
NB: Soil removal is measured without spotting
7. A worldwide standard in wet cleaning
Wet cleaning performance standard
Greying (test swatches wool)
• Measurement with tristumulus colorimeter, measuring green remission
(Rg)
• Greying = Rg, before – Rg, after
• Greying wool < 10 after 10 cycles
7. A worldwide standard in wet cleaning
Wet cleaning performance standard
Shrinkage (test swatches wool)
• Measurement shrinkage in %
• Shrinkage is measured after finishing
• Shrinkage wool < 2 % after 10 cycles
7. A worldwide standard in wet cleaning
Wet cleaning performance standard
Finishing quality criteria (textile package)
• Visual inspection of seams and lining before and after finishing
• Measuring length and width of arms and back, before an after finishing
• 1 = good, 2 = medium, 3 = bad
• No score of 3 (= bad) after 10 cleaning cycles
7. A worldwide standard in wet cleaning
Questions?
{ }Alliance Pitch Presentation
{ }Büfa / Sedac Pitch Presentation
Mr. Patrick Launay & Luca Casella
{ }Cole & Wilson Pitch Presentation
Mrs. Pauline Debaisieux
{ }Electrolux Pitch Presentation
Mr. Christoph Richter
{ }Kreussler Pitch Presentation
Mrs. Isabelle Braud
{ }Seitz Pitch Presentation
Questions?