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jewels of the sea

JUST OFF The cOaST OF nOrTh-eaSTern Spain LieS a chain OF gem-LiKe iSLanDS, hOme TO SOme OF The mOST DiVerSe anD mUch-OBSerVeD marine LiFe On The pLaneT

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Words John OatesPhoto (this page) Toni León

found just a mile off the Costa Brava and with steep, easily defended cliffs, the seven small islands of the Medes archipelago have long been of strategic interest. For much of the medieval

period the islands were used as a base by pirates, but in the 15th century soldier-monks built a fortress on La Meda Gran (the largest island) to guard against them and to control trade. Later, the same island was used as a prison, and then as a garrison for Spanish and English troops.

Today there is still a functioning 19th-century lighthouse on La Meda Gran, but the archipelago is best known for its remarkably diverse marine life. The plant and animal species – over 1,345 of them have been recorded – are sustained by organic matter from the river Ter, currents from the depths of the Mediterranean bringing nutrient-rich water and the diverse composition of the sea bed. The islands are popular with scuba divers, snorkelers and day-trippers in glass-bottomed boats, most of whom visit from the mainland town of L’Estartit.

There is a long history of fishing activity around the island, but it intensified after diving suits were introduced in the 1950s. The threat to this important environment was soon recognised and the area attracted the attention of marine biologists, including the famous Jacques Cousteau. Restrictions on fishing were enforced from 1983, and a marine reserve was established around the islands in 1990. Its

twentieth anniversary was marked this year with a law extending the reserve from approximately 500 to 2,200 hectares including a 10km stretch of the mainland coast.

Also this summer, Jacques Cousteau’s son Pierre-Yves visited the Medes as part of an expedition marking the hundredth anniversary of his father’s birth. Carried out in association with National Geographic, the aim was to explore the same marine ecosystems his father had studied decades ago, and using archive footage as a reference. As expected, the expedition found a dramatic reduction of biodiversity in unprotected parts of the Mediterranean, emphasising the vital role of marine reserves.

For the eighth year running, in June of this year the islands were the focal point of MIMA – Medes Image and Environment – an international underwater photography and videography competition. There were categories for online submissions from anywhere in the world, but the main event was a two-day contest around the islands themselves, with a top prize of 1,300 euro.

Participants visited two sites per day and attempted to get the best images they could, accompanied by assistants who also acted as models when required. Visibility this year was unseasonably poor, but with the help of strobes (lights) the participants captured some remarkable images in difficult circumstances. We showcase some of the winning images in the following pages.

chieFS whO parTicipaTeD in Kayapó LeaDerShip SUmmiT, pará, BraziL

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OcTOpUS (OctOpus vulgaris)phOTOgrapher: raqUeL mOriLLO

The islands see 66,000 divers per year, wiTh a maximum of 450

permiTs available each day. all divers musT have a guide,

and There are 12 recognised dive siTes, several of Them

including rouTes Through Tunnels and caves. The reserve

was seT up To proTecT The ecosysTem and To conTrol access, buT noT To exclude

humans enTirely – raTher, iT is inTended To play an

educaTional role

DeViL’S eye Spring aT ginnie SpringS, FLOriDa. The Tannin- rich waTerS OF The SanTa Fe riVer mix wiTh The crySTaL-cLear waTerS OF The SpringS

JacqUeS cOUSTeaU repOrTeDLy prOnOUnceD ginnie SpringS TO Be ‘The cLeareST waTer in The wOrLD’. a caVe DiVer’S Dream, ThrOUgh near-perFecT ViSiBiLiTy yOU’LL See a BeaUTiFUL UnDerwaTer wOrLD, incLUDing The hUge grOTTOS where waTer FrOm The aqUiFer gUSheS inTO magniFicenT Spring pOOLS anD DOwn The Spring rUnS inTO The SanTa Fe riVer

phOTOgrapher: DaViD DOUBiLeT

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Shrimp (periclimenes amethysteus)phOTOgrapher: marc caSanOVaS

Large-ScaLeD ScOrpiOnFiSh (scOrpaena scrOfa)phOTOgrapher: ceSar BODi BrUn

The reserve includes a cenTral proTecTed area and a wider area around iT where The regulaTions

are less sTricT. large-scale fishing and underwaTer spear-fishing

are forbidden ThroughouT The reserve, for example, while

small-scale fishing is allowed buT regulaTed in The wider area

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phOTOgrapher: SiLVia BOccaTO

reD gOrgOnian (paramuricea clavata)phOTOgrapher: Dani eSpinach

The medes islands are noTed for Their abundance of red gorgonian fans, found on The dark rocky boTTom of The sea where The lack of lighT inhibiTs algae growTh. alThough They look like planTs, each fan is acTually formed from a greaT many Tiny polyps. each of These has eighT TenTacles To caTch plankTon and oTher parTicles which The polyp can feed on. gorgonians are commonly found in areas where There are currenTs To bring These parTicles To Them, growing perpendicular To The currenT

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DUSKy grOUper (epinephelus marginatus)phOTOgrapher: SiLVia BOccaTO

alThough many oTher species of fish – such as wrasse and bream – are also found around The islands, The marine reserve is parTicularly known for large grouper. during The day, The island’s caves are home To nocTurnal creaTures such as lobsTer and conger eel, while The mosT popular visiTors To The islands are boTTlenose dolphins. These are regularly spoTTed in The waTers and sTay ThroughouT The winTer

The reserve is rich in whaT divers describe as macro life, small creaTures such as The shell-less molluscs collecTively known as nudibranchs. ofTen noTable for Their flamboyanT colours and shapes, These creaTures geT Their name from Their feaThery gills (The laTin NudibraNchia means naked gills). They also have Two highly sensiTive TenTacles called rhinopores, which deTecT prey such as algae, anemone and coral. many scuba divers relish The chance To spoT These Tiny organisms

nUDiBranchS (cOryphella pedata)phOTOgrapher: Dani eSpinach

while The islands are home To only Three species each of mammals and repTiles, They have abundanT bird and insecT life (wiTh around 60 and 140 recorded species respecTively). The islands have one of The largesT colonies of yellow-legged gull in The mediTerranean, and birdwaTchers are drawn by – among oThers – heron, shag, peregrine falcon, swifT and blue rock Thrush.The island’s indigenous planTs are adapTed To dry condiTions – prickly pear, for example – or To The salTwaTer spray – planTs such as samphire – on The cliffs. There are also planTs such as mallow which Thrive on seagull droppings

yeLLOw-LeggeD gULL (larus michahellis)phOTOgrapher: Dani eSpinach

For more information see:

mima-medes.org

enestartit.com

cousteau.org

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