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Shirts andSweaters

Accessories

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ADDITIONALREPORTING

BY.IOITN MILEY

Boss Selection bomberjocket (53,300), (800)484-6267: Boss Black

T-shirt (595), (800) 484-6267: PPD ieons (5200),

bloamingdoLes.com

RIILtr BOOKThe Fit Man's Perfect Fit

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$pulptYourSuitChoose a suit thattollows the outlines ofyour body while maskingimperfections. Then teta tailor have at it. "lt's thetailor's iob to take a meremortal and sculpt a suitaround him to give him thebody of a Grecian statue,"says James Sherwood,author of the new bookBespoke: The Men's Foshionof Sovile Row,

The precise fit thattailoring provides can makea moderately priced suitlook expensive. (Conversely,an expensive suit witt lookcheap it it doesn't fit welt.)"A gym-toned body is theenemy of off-the-rack suits,"says Sherwood, because ajacket for a big-shoutderedman won't always come withthe right size trousers.

When you try on a iacket,lift up your arms just an inchor two, lf the coat rides up,the jacket is perfect-forcomedy, But it's too tight fornormal use, A wett-fittingshoulder is the starting pointfor an off-the-rack suit. Atailor can't save a shoulderthat doesn't fit,

Then check the iacket atyour waist; you want it snugwhen buttoned. Sherwoodsays the waistline of theiacket should be cut high,around the narrowest Dartof your waist. As for th'epants, avoid puddting at yourfeet: the hem shoutd faltgracefully on the shoe. Andgo with a tight four-in-handknot for your tie. lt's simDteand sleek. "lt witl atwayibe in proportion and subtte,rather than shouting outloud," says Sherwood.

Boss Btack sult fsgo0) ond shirt(5145), (800) 484-6262i Steven Atantie (560), stevenolan colT; Atdo shoes6nA), oldoshoes.com; The Tie Bartie bor (S15), (877) 8BB-8437

PHOTOGRAPHSMODELS: THOMAS CHADWICKSTILL LIFE: GREG BROOME

The Shoulder

It shoutd be snug butnot tight. Even thebest taitor can't

rework a shoulder.

The KnotThe wider the coltaropening, the [arger

the knot can be. Thismodified spread

collar ca[[s for a tightfour-in-hand knot.

The Lapel

The tie and tapelshould retate to each

other in width. Anarrow [apeI cat[s

for a skinny tie.

The \Maist

The body of thejacket should skim

your torso.

The Sleeve

Steeves shou[dsit hatf an

inch above theshirt cuff.

TheHem

Your trousersshould have aslight break on

your shoe.

RuLes+of+Matching+Shirts+

and+TiesSome men become paralyzed

when they tryto match ties withshirts. But different patterns and

textures can look knowinglystylish-if you followthis guide.

SophisticatedWhy it works: T}:.e dominant

colors in both shirt and tie arethe same tone, but not a perfect

match. The flecked texture ofthewool tie provides a contrast withthe shirtt classic windowpane.

ConservativeWhy itworks: Slripes and checkscan workwhen the shirt and tie

share a common color. Makesure one ofthe two (in this casethe tie) is bolder than the other.

CasuaLWhy itworks: The bigger the

checks, the more casual the shirt.Match that feelingwith a tex-

tured tie in a loose knot. To makeit more formal, switch the tie fora silk one, and tighten the knot.

Sophisticated: Ike Behat shirt (5165).(800) 637-3013: Alexander 0l.ch tie

(S 150), olch.com ; Conservativer TommyHiltiger shirt (560) ondtie (550), (800)

873-7203: Casual:Lands' End shlrt(540), (800) 800-58AO; Lands'EndCanvas ile fS50), (877) 877-1963

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MEN'S IIEALTH STYLE DEPARTMENT14

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Even an expensive suit can lookshine with accessories that say

Like a uniform. Let your personaLitysomething about you.

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Wearng a chealtwatch with a sLlit sIke clrinkir-rg slrqlenratt scotch fronr apalrer cup A basic

stainless-steel watclrs r.lsuaLly f ne, but

the cletarI or entedrnan shor-rlcl opt for

a ciress er tirrrepiecew th a thit.r case anclIeather strap. Matclr

the leathcr of ts stral:to your belt ancl shoes.

Tateossian Flyn.,/ Ealole .l

Tiebar

Your cr-rffs, r'rot your tieare the place to reveaI

your nterests. CuffLtnks that Look like flv-fishing reeLs are

'',-,uihcooler than a necktieerrbLazoned with

lumping trout. If yourtastes fatL sonrewhere

between l:asrc andnovelty, opt for cuffi nks w th color or

r-rnique shapes.

,ii,. larlcos-s/.rr.onl Thomas Pink lic r5 laj) ciltcl tte bor51301 {888/ 336' I 192. Bul.ova wotch t::l/s). nj(tcys.cojl1

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TIE LENGTH >>, The tip ofyour tieshouldhitthetop ofyour trousers. Go alittle shorterfor a retrolook, butnevergo longer. Ever,

You can looksharp olt a budget'As a general rule, most people will notbe able to tell how expensive youlclothes are if theyfit you perfectly," says Clinton Kelly, host of TLC's WhatNottoWear."T'm fooledallthe time." Even if youhave only $2OO to spendon a suit, take it to a tailor and it will look like it was made forvou.

1 A tong crotch revealsa poorly made suit.'rltlooks [ik€ you boughtit at a big-and-tatlwarehouse sale,"says Kelly. The crotchshould fit comfortablyctose without huggingyour equipment,

2 Lesser suits havewider armholes.Sloppy, says Ketly.

3 Whenever possible,opt for wool. Syntheticfabrics can makeyou sweat, and theydon't have the stayingpower of woot.

4 Classic stylesalways seem moreluxurious. You can'tgo wrong with a two-button notch lapel andside vents.

5 lf workouts havegiven you a chest andshoulders much largerthan your waist, trysuit components. Buy-ing the pants and jack-et separately makesit easier to achieve agood fit, Try: BananaRepublic, J.Crew,Atfani, Calvin Ktein,Topman, Express, andClub Monaco.

LeltrCal.vinKleinsuitlS300/,setectMocysjDKNy./ressshijisll0l, g)e237,UB84;BurberryLondonrielsl50l (B]a)281-B4Ba:TheTieBarticir.r-lsl5/.i8//)888843/ti.l1t Al.taniRedjocket (5325), tt ausers (5125). and sttt't (515). ntctcys.cotnr Atexander Otch t,e r

(ijOl, olci, "o,,,

MEN,s HEALTH sTYLE DEPARTMENTI6

Don Draper has madeit safe to wear a tie

bar again. whichshoulcl be srrrpLeancJ unclerstated

silver or qoLcl. (SimpLywearing orre ts state-ment enough.) Thebar slrouLcl aLso be

slightly smaller thanthe wldth of the tieWhere does it qo?

Betweerr the tlrircl anclfourth sh rt buttorrs

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DKNY sultjocket fS6O0/ond dress shirt (Sg0),

(800) 231-0884;Tatlia Orange pocket squore

( 525 ), tolLi o o ro n g e.com

RevealYourselfwith a Pocket SquareA Loud,shirt is.no way to announce yoursetf. Try using a pocket square to inject some flair,saysC[intonKel.Ly."I_t'saniceoppo]tunitytosunttya-dd'apattern'orprintt6jtoofrwitfr-'out going overboard," he says, Three of his favorite fotds ai'e the condervat've three-point,the easygoing rounded pufi and the ctassic square (or TV) foLd.

Three-pointWHAT > This is for the man who'sbolder than most. lt's elegant and

precise, but you never want to looklike you've spent a lot of time on it.

HoW > Fotd a silk square as ifyou're making a trianqle, but don'tfotd it exactty in hatf. lnstead, make

two side-by-side,,peaks." Nowbring the left side of the foldededge up and to the right of your

peaks, to make a third peak. Thenbring the right side ot ihe folded

edge across to the left.WEAR > Atways wear this formaland conservative style with a tie.

DIFFICULTY > Hiqh

RoundedpuffWHAT > lt's a stylish way to wear apocket square, but more carefree

than the three-pointed look.HOW > Fold it in halt and round thefotded edge over so it tooks like a

half moon. Tuck and oo-WEAR > This is more casu-at than

.other folds, so add this to a sportjacket. Since the puff is sott, use a

silk or soft cotton fabric.DIFFICULTY > Medium

Square or TVfoldWHAT > The classic midcenturypocket square. Think Mod Men,

HOW > Use a stiff cotton orcotton/linen square. Fold it in halfand then in hatf again, ironing theedge of the fotd with each crease.Wear it straight across or tilted

diagonalty with about hatf an inchot material peeking out.

WEAR 'You can add this to every-thing lrom a sharp, wetl-tailored

suit to a tuxedo.DIFFICULTY > Low

Expensive+Isn't+

ALways+BestBuying the best is a safebet. But it's not always

necessary, Besides, savingmoney on your work

wardrobe wil[ leave youwith more cashto spend on fun.

Basic dress shirtsBaggy shirts can look cheap

even when they're not. Ifyouhave a slim or muscularbuild, aslim-fit white shirt from Banana

Republic or Club Monaco willIook much better than a pricierbut more blousyversion. Evena bigger man can look slimmerifhe wears a well-tailored shirt

instead ofa tent-

Thicker butto ns indicate quality.Ifyou have a good-looking shirt

with shoddybuttons, have atailor swap in better ones.

Look for better fabrics-youshouldn't see the nubofcotton or any errant

threads. ^Sft#ts with stretchtend to look more

expensive because theyfit so well and the

fabric looks smoother.

SoLid or classic tiesYou can spend less on a basic

solid tie, but make sure ithas a lining. Without it, a tie

looks less substantial andwon't lie conectly. Beyondsolids, stick with traditional

patterns, like stripes or checks.Interesting textures and

sheens appear richer than flatweaves. Try brands like J.Crew,

Express, and Topman.

BUTTONS > > > The bottombutton onyour suitjacket or sportcoat alwaysstaysundone. Period.

C U F FS >' > T rouser cuffs are appropri-ate only ifyour pants have pleats andyou're over 5'9". Flat-front trousers caIIfor an uncuffe d Ie g. No exc eptions.

WAISTBAND >>> Trousers are notjeans. The waistband shoulil sit atyourwaist, nolower. Hence the name.

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Show Neck Dealbreaker

fburWhen your shirt is comptetety but-toned, you should be abte to stickone or two fingers in your collar

comfortabty. If you can turn yourhead without choking, it's a good fit.

BodyA dress shirt shouLd makeyou look good and flatter thebody you've worked hard tobuitd-not hide it with a tent,Darlene DeAndrade, an experttaitor in Manhattan, exptainshow to find the right fit.

Shoulder Body

,qr

A shirt that's too large canmake a big guy look bigger,a small guy look tiny, and

any guy look sloppy.

tI0,

Rufus shlrt(s195),rufus.com:True Reli-gion BrandJeansjeons,(s190),truereligionbrqndjeons.

Sleeves

The seam should sit at the shout-der; it can be half an inch over, butnever under, If it's more than halfan inch over, the body may be too

loose or boxy. Too much under andthe armhote wil[ be uncomfortab[e.

A cotlar or cuff thatdoes not fit cannot bealtered. A shirt bodycan be taken in, but

never let out.

You should be abte to pinchan inch of fabric on each sideof your body. Any more and

the fit wil.t be too loose. Lookfor darting (that sewn-in

shaping), which indicates as[immer fit. The shirt shoutdfatt at teast 7 inches betowyour waist; you should be

able to lift your arms withoutthe shirt coming untucked.

A shirt cuff shoul.d sit1 to 1% inches above your

thumb joint. If you canslide your hand through a

cuff without unbuttoning it,the cuff's probabty too big.

ffi

MEN'S HEALTH STYLE DEPARTMENT20

com

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OF SHIRTSAND SWEATERS

Below:Vi\ce peocoqt sweoter (574q, (qAq 960-2231. with Number: Lab l-shirt $5a), number-Lob.com Gant Rugger creri deck

(5145), (212) 620-5949, wlth American ApparcLT shirt (577), omericonopporel.net; Brioni cordigon is950). IBBB) 776'8775 '' tif'

.4bove: The Men's V-neck (580), with Gap T-shit (520 for 2) 1op cam

Bosssetectiondressshirt(5225),(800)484-626T.qndMichaetBastiantiefSl5A) Bergda4GoadmonMensStarc

Thin+Knits+Are+a+Fit+Man's+Friendlf you're in good shape, weara thin sweater or knit insteadof a run-of-the-mitl cotlaredshirt under a taitored jacket.

The result is more casual,flatters a fit body, and pairswett with ieans or chinos,

Don'thidebehind. abullgt sweater.

A fine.gauge l^n't or sweater-cardlgan, crew, or V-neck-offers a better fit than a thickone does. With lust a T-shirtunderneath, you'Ll Look bothsleek and relaxed, and feelmore comfortabLe.

Above leftr Burberry LondonbLozer (5900), (800) 284-8480: Inhabitsweoter (5300), 212-826-890A NudieJeans jeons (5780), nudejeons :cntCreative Recreation sneokers S9C .

Nordstrcn. Right: Ben Sherman blozers2jl 588,810'3581 Boss Bl.ack

ror,--c;r 5i9i 8CA,;3- 6267:Ameiican Apparel. f-shiri islg/,amettcanapporcL net True Rel.igionBrand Jeans Jeolrs (520A), tuere Li g i o nb ro n dje o n s.com; Kenneth Co[eNew York shoes 15160), Kenneth CoLe

New York stares

SweaterjacketThis reLaxed peacoat-styLe sweater

is a great outerwear alternative.Since you'LI wear Layers underneath,

the fit shouLd be roomy.

Crew neckSolids are the wardrobe foundation,

but a pattern adds texture. Non-banded bottoms are more forgiving

on heavier midsections,

CardiganThe uLtimate multipurpose knit.Dress it up with a shirt and tie

for the office, or go casual with a

T-shirt and jeans.

NECKLINES>>> Matchtheneck ofyour T-shirttotheneckofyour sweater. WearV-neckT-shirts andsweaters together; the T-shirt canhave ahigher neck. Acardiganworkswith anystyle. Buta crew-neckT-shirtwith aV-neck sweateris okay only ifCaptain Kirkisyour styleicon'

MEN'S HEALTH STYLE DEPARTMENT21

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OFACCESSORIES

rwcSpitfire Mork XVl,

s4,90a,(310) 734-4520

-

Don't undermine acarefulty crafted took bywearing a plastic watch,says Andrew Block,executive vice presidentof Tourneau, a nationwidespecialty-watch retailer."One of the watchesyou own should be aclassic design," Blocksays. "There's a subtleelegance to a classicwatch that makes itversatile." lt'tl look goodwith whatever you wear,whether it's a tuxedo orjeans and a sport coat.Look for a watch thathas emotional impact foryou. "Make a statement,"says Block. "For the mostpart, men don't wearjewelry, so the watch isreally the onty thing aman Gan wear to show hisaccomplishment."

Tag Heuerlimited edition

Monqcochronogroph,

s5,2A0,togheuer.

aom

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PaneraiRodiomir, 58.100.(87/) 726 3724

-

CartierSontas lOA

s530a,80a)227 8437

-

ffi-

Movado Datrons2,990. (BBB)

466 8236

BreittingSuperoceon

Herito1e 46 (54,02A),(877) 273-4854

IVictorinox

Swiss ArmyInfontry Viltoge

MechonicoLDoylDote,5850.(804) 442-2746

WATCHWORD >>> Thebulkier the w atch, the morecasual it is. And the higherthe quality, the more itde s erv e s reg ular s ervicin g.These areinvestments,afterall.

,i:!i.._ '.Jif

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SavSomethinsw-rthlour FraTnes

MEN'S HEALTH STYLE DEPARTMENT24

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BE LTS > > > Match your belt to yourshoes inbothcolor andtexture. Andnever wear a dress belt withj e ans.

A+Fat+WaLLet+Is"UgV

It's bad for you, too. Sittingon a thick waltet can stressyour back and cause pain.

"You're etevating your pelvison one side, which bends the

spine," says Stuart McGilt,Ph,D., a professor of spine

biomechanics at the Universityol Waterloo, Ontario. "You'realso compressing the sciatic

nerve, which runs behind yourhip." Move the waltet from

your back pocket, or switch toone of these slimmer versions.

It'tl force you to edit thecards, cash, and trash you're

carrytng now.

Tap:Tumi Manoco clip cord case(580),80A) 299 8864: middLe rheMen's Store B[oomingdate's Mogic

wollet (S6a), (BA0) 232-1854; bottom.left io r/ghtr Louis Vuifton ManagrsmMocossor cqrd hoLder (525A) @66)884 8866; Bottega Veneta wollet

(Si 10A) (877) 362-1215; Jan LestiewoLlet (S 795), jo nlesLie.con

TTIE RI.Ittr SMHGTS#25

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A wett-dressed professionaI carrying a shoddy bag is headednowhere fast. "It is important that the bag doesn't become an

afterthought," says PhiL Russo, vice president of design for CoLe

Haan. "If you invest in a quality piece, it witl continue to Look

better over time." Let your bag reflect your ambition. Make thatbogs, because you need these.

GymYou can carry this

practical nylon bag asa tote or backpack. And

it's smart enough tobring into the office.

WorkThis is a modern take onthe traditiona[ leatherbriefcase. A zipper a[-

Lows the bag to expandwith your workload.

WeekendThe baltistic nytoncan stand up to the

wear and tear of travel.Extra pockets hetp keep

you organized.

Coach boq (S4A). @66)262-2444:Viclotinoxsweoter (5175), 8a0)442-27A6: AtmaniExchange corgo ponts(590) ond T-shirt (525),

o r m o n iexch o n ge.com ; T heCollection by CreativeRecreation sneokers(5295), Borneys NewYark;Tag Heuet wstch$6,504), tugheuercom

Catvin K[ein lrovls convertibLe bockpock (5120), coLvinklein.cam:fumi Loredo Phoenix portfoLio

brief (5375). 800 299 BB64:Tumi Alpho Brovo KessLer duffel (5325)' (800) 299-8864

SOCKS > > > Match your socks to your Pants, not yourshoes, tolengthenthe look ofyour legs. Theotherway creates the illusion ofboots. And this isn't 1967.

She seesvourbneakersWomenmaynottakenote ofthe hoursyou logworking out,but theywill noticeifyouwearyoursneakers outside thegym. "Your shoessend a message towornen thatyou careabout your appear-ance," says designerMichael Bastian.So ease back to thestreets with cooland simple styleslike these.

PF Flyers Droke 69A), @00)622-1218 , PRO-Keds 69 Ht(585), (800) 68A-A966;, TretornSkymro convos (560), (877)873-8626, Generic SurptusWhort (565), 80a) 7 /7-0000

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MEN'S HEALTH STYLE DEPARTMENT25

Interestingdetail

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Dark brownshould beconsidered aneutrat thatgoes best withnavy, brown,tan, or gray.

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Co Lo r+Ru Les+Aren't+B Lack+a nd+Wh iteThere are gray areas when it comes to restrictions

on color combinations. Knowing a littte color theoryopens up endless possibitities.

Hather

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Po[o Ralph Lauren cabLe knit sweoter g4A0)ond clossic fit dress shirts $BA-5165), (BBB) 475-7674

Sourcei CoLor Harmany 2 by Bride M. WheLon

Engage oppositesPurple and green are easy on the eyesbecause they are directLy across from

each other on the color wheel.

The Blues SpeakVolumesEvery man owns at Least one bLue dress shirt, Buy some more; different shades carry different shades of meaning.Darker btues tend toward the corporate; lighter feeLs more fashion-forward and youthfu[, Do you see yourself heie?

Keep it in thefamilyA plum lavender combination ismonochromatic that is, 0ne hue pairedwith a related shade or tint.

:

DARKLOOKS COOL >>> Sweatalot?Choose a darkhue, likenavy orblack,to hide unsightly perspiration stains.

Banker blueYou're conservative. Thispopular shade is neitherofiensive nor ris$. The

upside is thatjust about anyother color, from khaki to

black, will be a match.

Powder bLueYou have a casual, youthfulattitude. You ll stand out

in this subtle shade, whichwon't overpower pale skinbut will also show offa tan.

Ideal matches are nar'],, grayrand chocolate.

French blueYou re mainstream. This

color was once risky, but nowit's expected. Its mass appealextends to matching: It goeswith practically everything.

SteeL b[ueYou're modern and cool. Thegray tones give this color acontemporary feel. Wear

it with neutrals and coolerhues, like gray or naly, to

keep the look intact.

MEN'S HEALTH STYLE DEPARTIIIENT28

It's Okav!9 IgnofeYour

Your dad's advice wasnot timeless. lf hewarned you never tomix navy and black,it's time to be yourown man. Fotlowingconventional wisdomcan make you lookdated, says designerMichael Bastian,"l'm a big believer inplaying around a tittlewith strong color," hesays. For instance,black and brown andother dark neutralsmake a sleek, modernstatement when worntogether, despiteold-school edicts, 'rAconfident, friendtyman can pull anythingoff," he says.

q

Banana Repubtic Monogramsuit jocket (5450)and suit trausers (5200),bononorepubLic.com:Prada shirt ($420), prodorcom

.i.:," +

UseneutralsRed and tan work together because tan

is neutral. So are bLack, brown, navy, andgray, Each of these goes with anything.

Blend temperaturesOrange is a warm color; btue is cooL.This and other warm-cooI combinationscompLement each oiher.