JOURNAL O~'

VOYAGES AND TRAVELS UY TU1~

HEV. DANIEL TYERMAN .AND GEOHGE BENNET, ESQ.

DEPUTED FROM Tun

LONDQN MISSIONARY . SOCIETY,

TO nSlT TflEIR VA11.l0US STA.TIONS . IN THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS, CHINA, INDIA, &c.,

BETWEEN THE YEARS 1821 AND 1829.

COMPILElJ .FROM OIUCINAL DOCUMENTS

BY JAMES MONTGOMERY.

VOL: II .

.. Glorify ye the mime of the Lord God of Israel in th • .IS1es of the •• a.-From the utter' most pub of the earth have we heard songs, even glory to the righteous."

IsAIAH xxiv. 15, 16.

LONDON:

FREDEHICK WESTLEY AND A. H . DAVI S, nooksell~ril to the London Missionary Society.

STATIONERS' HALI, COURT AND AVE MAI\IA LANE.

MDCCCXXXI.

JOURNAL O~'

VOYAGES AND TRAVELS UY TU1~

HEV. DANIEL TYERMAN .AND GEOHGE BENNET, ESQ.

DEPUTED FROM Tun

LONDQN MISSIONARY . SOCIETY,

TO nSlT TflEIR VA11.l0US STA.TIONS . IN THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS, CHINA, INDIA, &c.,

BETWEEN THE YEARS 1821 AND 1829.

COMPILElJ .FROM OIUCINAL DOCUMENTS

BY JAMES MONTGOMERY.

VOL: II .

.. Glorify ye the mime of the Lord God of Israel in th • .IS1es of the •• a.-From the utter' most pub of the earth have we heard songs, even glory to the righteous."

IsAIAH xxiv. 15, 16.

LONDON:

FREDEHICK WESTLEY AND A. H . DAVI S, nooksell~ril to the London Missionary Society.

STATIONERS' HALI, COURT AND AVE MAI\IA LANE.

MDCCCXXXI.

CON TEN T S 0 F VOL. II.

CHAPTER XXVII.

Arrival at Borabora-Missionary Settlement at Beulah-Appearance of Native Congregation....:...Con~ratulatory Addresses and Presents -Marriages-Island of Mauplti-Retlections on its Loneliuess­The Deputation welcomed- Savage Practices of the People of Maupiti in former times- Effects of Infanticide-Ninety Persons baptized - Deserted Mamas - Missionary Collection - Return to Borabora-Estimation of the Scriptures-Rogues and Vagabonds­Execution of a Criminal-Missionary Meeting-Laws revised­Pl'isoners' Sentences commuted-Fortifications. . . . . . .

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Return to Raiatea-Singular Water-spout-Mr. and Mrs. Chamber­lain-Dreadful Narrative of Captain Pollard-News from the Sand­wich Islands-Raiatean Tradition-First Overthrow of Idolatry in Raiatea--Land Crabs-Departure for Huahine-Missionary Meet-

Page

ing held, and the Code of Laws settled ' 22

CHAPTER XXIX.

Embarkation for Tahiti-Captain Duperre in Matavai ,Bay-Tomb of Pomare- Three Thousand Persons attend Divine Service at once­Missionary Meeting-First Stone of Chapel laid at Papeete-Feast on that Occasion-Rites formerly used on laying the FOUIuj.ation­stones of Mames and royal Residences- Unsettled State of the Go­vernment of Tahiti-Houses tabued-A Tradition-An Earthquake -Names and Abode of first native Converts-Punishment for drink-ing Ava--Captain Riggs-His Escape-Ferocity of Marquesans­Winter-temperature of Tahiti-Birth-day of young Pomare. . . 35

CHAPTER XXX.

Russian Captain Lazaroff-Decision on a difficult Point of Tahitian Law-Impostures of ancient Priests-Basaltic Formation-Moun­tain-peak of Arofena-Magnificent Scenery-Valley of Arofena- ' A perilous Feat-Visit to Papara-Presen£s of native Articles­- The Fara-tree-First Parents of South-sea Islanders, according to Trudition--Opelling of a Chapel-Fare nu Atua, or HOllse of a God-Rugged Ways into the Interior of Tahiti-Tropical Fern-A MOllntain L ake . 47.

CON TEN T S 0 F VOL. II.

CHAPTER XXVII.

Arrival at Borabora-Missionary Settlement at Beulah-Appearance of Native Congregation....:...Con~ratulatory Addresses and Presents -Marriages-Island of Mauplti-Retlections on its Loneliuess­The Deputation welcomed- Savage Practices of the People of Maupiti in former times- Effects of Infanticide-Ninety Persons baptized - Deserted Mamas - Missionary Collection - Return to Borabora-Estimation of the Scriptures-Rogues and Vagabonds­Execution of a Criminal-Missionary Meeting-Laws revised­Pl'isoners' Sentences commuted-Fortifications. . . . . . .

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Return to Raiatea-Singular Water-spout-Mr. and Mrs. Chamber­lain-Dreadful Narrative of Captain Pollard-News from the Sand­wich Islands-Raiatean Tradition-First Overthrow of Idolatry in Raiatea--Land Crabs-Departure for Huahine-Missionary Meet-

Page

ing held, and the Code of Laws settled ' 22

CHAPTER XXIX.

Embarkation for Tahiti-Captain Duperre in Matavai ,Bay-Tomb of Pomare- Three Thousand Persons attend Divine Service at once­Missionary Meeting-First Stone of Chapel laid at Papeete-Feast on that Occasion-Rites formerly used on laying the FOUIuj.ation­stones of Mames and royal Residences- Unsettled State of the Go­vernment of Tahiti-Houses tabued-A Tradition-An Earthquake -Names and Abode of first native Converts-Punishment for drink-ing Ava--Captain Riggs-His Escape-Ferocity of Marquesans­Winter-temperature of Tahiti-Birth-day of young Pomare. . . 35

CHAPTER XXX.

Russian Captain Lazaroff-Decision on a difficult Point of Tahitian Law-Impostures of ancient Priests-Basaltic Formation-Moun­tain-peak of Arofena-Magnificent Scenery-Valley of Arofena- ' A perilous Feat-Visit to Papara-Presen£s of native Articles­- The Fara-tree-First Parents of South-sea Islanders, according to Trudition--Opelling of a Chapel-Fare nu Atua, or HOllse of a God-Rugged Ways into the Interior of Tahiti-Tropical Fern-A MOllntain L ake . 47.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXXI. Page

The Deputation at mmeo.,-Disco~tents in Tahiti~A Cow. Slaugh- . tered at Eimeo-Roby's' Place-Style of Ancient Kil)gs-Meridian Rainhow-Old S.Jyerstitions-'J'he ,Deputation sail for , the Pearl Islands-Chapel at Rafvavai-Taro-gvounds-ChapeJ ,opened-In­terchange of Presents-Visit to Tubuai- G!,sp,el introduced, at ' Tubuai-Difliculties about the Sabbath 65

CHAPTEft ·X·XXII. '(I .,

Voyage to the Pear!" Isla~ds P9stpone.d" ,and tpe Deputation return to Eimeo and Tahiti-Parliameut ,0f,.t'be' Winqwar!1· IsI.ands.,-Discus­sion and Adoption of the r,qvised , Oode of Laws;--Russian Ships under .Captain Kotz'ebue visit J'abiti, --'fransportatjon of Cia! House­Important Question resp~ct~ngJ,\igh~s qf the . Royal J'amily,--Col'O-nation of th~ young King Pomare lV. . '. 80

CHAPTER XXXIII.

The Deputation take a final Leave of Tahifi, Bnd proceed bY ,Eimeo for New South Wales, touching at HtJahine, 'Tahaa, and Raiatea~ Anecdotes, and a remarkable native Prophecy,':::-;Tides in the Pacific. Ocean-An odd Incident in 'Fishihg-A perilous Adventure-B,ora-

. bora-Summary of Observations on the' State of the Missions ill the Sonth Sea L~lands, by the Deputation . ,' . . . • . . ' " ~ . 99

• , • ~. A ,~J , • ('.'J~J H i ' •

• CHAP·.r:~R XXXly:

A Dead Ca!m-The Harvey Islands-Two .Nati,ve Missionaries, left there-Their Labours and Success-The Dep~tation land a.t Atui­Christianity on · that Island ~ Extraorllinary Preservation of five Christian Natives' - Rarbtonga - Reflections :'" .~ffecting Account of Oli and Mydo, '-the tW9 ,first' Converts to Christianity from the South Sea Islands-Sailing on the Great South Sea-Reach Wall-garoa Bay, New Zealand 116

CHAPTER 'XXXV.

Coast-scener).' of New Zealand - Approach and Appearance of the Natives- Their Canoes-T,heir ferqcious Conduct, and the perilolis Situation of the Deputation and t'he Cre\'v, while the Ship was in . Possession of the Savages-Deliverance fro\ll Qapt'vity and Death . by the Chief George; Bnd the Wesleyan Missionary, lY,[r. Wlli'te-,­Visit to the Wesleyan ' Station-Remarkable Cm-e .' of a diseased Nltti,ve, with his own Description 'Of it-Sail fro~ Wanguroa Bay-Anchot in Sydney Cove, New Hollahd I' ' 130

,I

CHAPTER XXXVI. , ,. . 'f ' .

Town of Sydney-C~mfol't:"" rlltc~change of~Kin<1liless with good Men -British 'Convjets-Visit to PUl'ramatta- ·Joyful Feelings on the . reception lind perusal of many Letters from Fl'iellds in Englalld-

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXXI. Page

The Deputation at mmeo.,-Disco~tents in Tahiti~A Cow. Slaugh- . tered at Eimeo-Roby's' Place-Style of Ancient Kil)gs-Meridian Rainhow-Old S.Jyerstitions-'J'he ,Deputation sail for , the Pearl Islands-Chapel at Rafvavai-Taro-gvounds-ChapeJ ,opened-In­terchange of Presents-Visit to Tubuai- G!,sp,el introduced, at ' Tubuai-Difliculties about the Sabbath 65

CHAPTEft ·X·XXII. '(I .,

Voyage to the Pear!" Isla~ds P9stpone.d" ,and tpe Deputation return to Eimeo and Tahiti-Parliameut ,0f,.t'be' Winqwar!1· IsI.ands.,-Discus­sion and Adoption of the r,qvised , Oode of Laws;--Russian Ships under .Captain Kotz'ebue visit J'abiti, --'fransportatjon of Cia! House­Important Question resp~ct~ngJ,\igh~s qf the . Royal J'amily,--Col'O-nation of th~ young King Pomare lV. . '. 80

CHAPTER XXXIII.

The Deputation take a final Leave of Tahifi, Bnd proceed bY ,Eimeo for New South Wales, touching at HtJahine, 'Tahaa, and Raiatea~ Anecdotes, and a remarkable native Prophecy,':::-;Tides in the Pacific. Ocean-An odd Incident in 'Fishihg-A perilous Adventure-B,ora-

. bora-Summary of Observations on the' State of the Missions ill the Sonth Sea L~lands, by the Deputation . ,' . . . • . . ' " ~ . 99

• , • ~. A ,~J , • ('.'J~J H i ' •

• CHAP·.r:~R XXXly:

A Dead Ca!m-The Harvey Islands-Two .Nati,ve Missionaries, left there-Their Labours and Success-The Dep~tation land a.t Atui­Christianity on · that Island ~ Extraorllinary Preservation of five Christian Natives' - Rarbtonga - Reflections :'" .~ffecting Account of Oli and Mydo, '-the tW9 ,first' Converts to Christianity from the South Sea Islands-Sailing on the Great South Sea-Reach Wall-garoa Bay, New Zealand 116

CHAPTER 'XXXV.

Coast-scener).' of New Zealand - Approach and Appearance of the Natives- Their Canoes-T,heir ferqcious Conduct, and the perilolis Situation of the Deputation and t'he Cre\'v, while the Ship was in . Possession of the Savages-Deliverance fro\ll Qapt'vity and Death . by the Chief George; Bnd the Wesleyan Missionary, lY,[r. Wlli'te-,­Visit to the Wesleyan ' Station-Remarkable Cm-e .' of a diseased Nltti,ve, with his own Description 'Of it-Sail fro~ Wanguroa Bay-Anchot in Sydney Cove, New Hollahd I' ' 130

,I

CHAPTER XXXVI. , ,. . 'f ' .

Town of Sydney-C~mfol't:"" rlltc~change of~Kin<1liless with good Men -British 'Convjets-Visit to PUl'ramatta- ·Joyful Feelings on the . reception lind perusal of many Letters from Fl'iellds in Englalld-

CONTENTS.

" p. Sir Thomas Brisbane-Factory for Female Convicts-Mr. Cunning­ham, the Botanist-Nettle-tree-Native Populatio~ of New Holland -Excursion from Parramat~Black Ants-Wild Native Animals -Orphan Schoo,l-Kissing Point-Conversion of the New Hol-landers - Methods of Civilization - Customs and Habits of , the Natives-Their Deaths and Marriages, Sagacity, Indolence, Cere-monies, and Traditions . 142

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Visit to Parramatta- Sir Thomas Brisbane-Barbarous Remark of a Settler respecting the Aborigines-Methodist Miss~Ql!ary Meeting ~Note from Major Ovens-Effects of Rain on Vegetation-Large Serpents-'- Opossum Tribe-Native Dogs - Kangaroos-Pelicans, Cranes, Black Swims, &c.-NoHces of the UAborigines--=A Mis­sionary Station amonl? them deter(.Il jned. upon'-"'7Mode 'o~ p~nish,ing a Murderer by the Nauves-IntervlCw with Wesleyan Mlsslonanes­Further Notices of the Aborigines-Sunday Schools at Parramat~ Macquarrie Anniversary-Missionary! ~tations examined- Charac­teristic Traits of the Natives-Reed's Mistake, a Colonial Station­A Receiver of stolen Goods-Two Classes of CQlonists..:.,...The' Rev. Mr. Sljeppard, from New Zealand-Arrival of Captain Kent-New Zealand Flax-Curious Superstitions and Practices' of New Hol­landers,- Arrival of the Brutus frolll the Society Isles -"Narrow Escape of some of that Ship's Comp\111Y at the Friendly Islands -Anecdote of horrible Ctuelty-Execution Of Murderers, &c.-Mission to the Aborigines-Embarkation for Batavia • 157

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

Torres Straits-Death of a Sailor at Sea-Bay of Batavia-Mr. Med­hurst, Missionary in Java-Chinese in Batavia-Malays-Hospital - Visit to the Dutch Governor of Java-Appeilrance of the Country -Village of Baitenzorg-Premises and Hospitl)lity of the Governor -Picture of Buonaparte-Christian Vi,lIag!:!-Jomney to Sl;Imarang -a Javanese Prince-Suspension und 'ftOatlBg Bridges~ Volcanic Mountains-Tiger-traps - Cemeteries - Marvellous Story-Revel­lers - Methocl of frightening Birds from Rice-fields-Buffaloes­Mr. Brockener, Baptist Missionary-Chinese Temple and Priests - Visit to Solo-a Grandee . 185

CHAPTER XXXIX.

Arrival at Solo-Description of that City- Enormous ,Cannon­.Emperor going ' to the ' Mosque-Deputation introduced to the Em­peror - Ceremonies and Amusements in the Palaae - Sumptuous Repast-" God save the King "-;Reflections-Samarang-A Cavern - A Grotto-Cheangor-Upas Tree-Return to Batavia-An Inci­dent- MI'. Deering - Coffin Dealers- Javanese New T estament­Chinese School- Origin and Progress of un Insurrection - Idol Temple - M'ahommedan ,Superstition - Chinese Block-~rinting­Rice, food-Chinese Festival- A, peculiar Vil1ageLTh~ 'J avanese and their Masters- English highly esteemed - Feeble Eif~cts of Religion in Java- Tradition l'~specti'ng BlIdhu . 207

CONTENTS.

" p. Sir Thomas Brisbane-Factory for Female Convicts-Mr. Cunning­ham, the Botanist-Nettle-tree-Native Populatio~ of New Holland -Excursion from Parramat~Black Ants-Wild Native Animals -Orphan Schoo,l-Kissing Point-Conversion of the New Hol-landers - Methods of Civilization - Customs and Habits of , the Natives-Their Deaths and Marriages, Sagacity, Indolence, Cere-monies, and Traditions . 142

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Visit to Parramatta- Sir Thomas Brisbane-Barbarous Remark of a Settler respecting the Aborigines-Methodist Miss~Ql!ary Meeting ~Note from Major Ovens-Effects of Rain on Vegetation-Large Serpents-'- Opossum Tribe-Native Dogs - Kangaroos-Pelicans, Cranes, Black Swims, &c.-NoHces of the UAborigines--=A Mis­sionary Station amonl? them deter(.Il jned. upon'-"'7Mode 'o~ p~nish,ing a Murderer by the Nauves-IntervlCw with Wesleyan Mlsslonanes­Further Notices of the Aborigines-Sunday Schools at Parramat~ Macquarrie Anniversary-Missionary! ~tations examined- Charac­teristic Traits of the Natives-Reed's Mistake, a Colonial Station­A Receiver of stolen Goods-Two Classes of CQlonists..:.,...The' Rev. Mr. Sljeppard, from New Zealand-Arrival of Captain Kent-New Zealand Flax-Curious Superstitions and Practices' of New Hol­landers,- Arrival of the Brutus frolll the Society Isles -"Narrow Escape of some of that Ship's Comp\111Y at the Friendly Islands -Anecdote of horrible Ctuelty-Execution Of Murderers, &c.-Mission to the Aborigines-Embarkation for Batavia • 157

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

Torres Straits-Death of a Sailor at Sea-Bay of Batavia-Mr. Med­hurst, Missionary in Java-Chinese in Batavia-Malays-Hospital - Visit to the Dutch Governor of Java-Appeilrance of the Country -Village of Baitenzorg-Premises and Hospitl)lity of the Governor -Picture of Buonaparte-Christian Vi,lIag!:!-Jomney to Sl;Imarang -a Javanese Prince-Suspension und 'ftOatlBg Bridges~ Volcanic Mountains-Tiger-traps - Cemeteries - Marvellous Story-Revel­lers - Methocl of frightening Birds from Rice-fields-Buffaloes­Mr. Brockener, Baptist Missionary-Chinese Temple and Priests - Visit to Solo-a Grandee . 185

CHAPTER XXXIX.

Arrival at Solo-Description of that City- Enormous ,Cannon­.Emperor going ' to the ' Mosque-Deputation introduced to the Em­peror - Ceremonies and Amusements in the Palaae - Sumptuous Repast-" God save the King "-;Reflections-Samarang-A Cavern - A Grotto-Cheangor-Upas Tree-Return to Batavia-An Inci­dent- MI'. Deering - Coffin Dealers- Javanese New T estament­Chinese School- Origin and Progress of un Insurrection - Idol Temple - M'ahommedan ,Superstition - Chinese Block-~rinting­Rice, food-Chinese Festival- A, peculiar Vil1ageLTh~ 'J avanese and their Masters- English highly esteemed - Feeble Eif~cts of Religion in Java- Tradition l'~specti'ng BlIdhu . 207

vi 'CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XL.

Passage to Singapore-Circumstances of that Place~Hindernnces to the Gospel-Preparation of Su!/o-The Camphor-dealer-Ludicrous Mistake of a China-lad-lYlisSlOn-ground- Undecipherable Inscrip­tion-Voyage to Macao-Lord's Day-Appearance of the Island -Chinese Pagoda- Statistical Notices - Idol-worshippers-Cave of Camoens-Ancient Nunnery- Crippled Feet of Chinese Ladies

Pnge

-Portuguese Papists- Tea..plantations--Pearl-shell Windows. 23'2

CHAPTER XLI.

Deputation sail to Oanton-Chinese Dram~tic Exhibition-Music­Deputation Visit the Govei'nor - Description of the Suburbs of Canton - Hong Merchants - City Wall- Trades and Shops­Cracker-cages-Beggars-A T ea-Iiouse-Population of Cantoll­British Factory-Edible Birds' Nests-Bad Food of the Poor- ' Chop-sticks - Idol-wol'ship- Ancient T emple-Sacred Swine-A Hong Merchant- Wampooa-The Three Forts-Contrivances on the River-Magnificent Entertainment-A Chinese Bride 248

CHAPTER XLII.

Another Hong Merchant;s Hospitality-Dancing-Taking leave of a Friend- Marriage-procession- Smugglers of Opium - Christmas Day-Deputation return to Singapore-Clunship alld Inhumanity of the Chinese-.Deputation proceed to Maluc'ca-Descl'iption of that Town-Extraordinary Tree-Pepper-plulltations-Schools in ' Ma­lacca-Chinese Fopperies-Proficiency of Native Scholars-Foun­dation of a Chapel laid-Chinese Emigrants-Tomb of Dr. Milne­Process of Extracting TOddy-Land-crabs, Frogs, and Alligators­Arrival at Pinang-Sabbath Exercises-Fantastic Mal'riage-proces­sion-Waterfall-Popish Mission College-Singular Paintings-A deposed King-"T~e Great 'free-Monkeys and Birds-Sensitive Plant-Dress ani! Habitations of the Malays-Personal Habits-Musical Cricket-Ingenious Spider . . . . . . . 266

I t

CHAPTER XLIII.

Voyage to Calcutta-Enter the River Hooghly-Approach to the Cit.y-The Rev. James I-lill-Visiting various Places-Archdeacon Corrie-Female Orphan School-The Black Town-Fort William -Museum of the Asiatic Society-Town Hall-Visit to the Episcopal Clergy-The Palanquin-Ramohun Roy-Intensity of the Heat - Bishop's College - Botanical Garden-Banyan-tree­Visit to Sel'ampore-Dr. Careyar,d bis Colleugues-A Temple of Juggernaut-Mllhommedan Mosque-Baptist College-Return to Calcutta-Bridal Pageant-Bullocks-Mr. Trawin, at Kidderpore -Dancing Serpents--Docility and Sagacity of Elephants-Kalee Ghaut-Swinging-machine . . ' . . . . 288

CHAPTER XLIV.

Sailing up the Hooghly-Jdllffaloes orossing the River-Milkmen on the Ganges_Evening Sights and SOlillds-Stllong Current--Ril'cl'­scenery-Shocking Spectacle-Burning of a Hindoo Corpse-A

vi 'CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XL.

Passage to Singapore-Circumstances of that Place~Hindernnces to the Gospel-Preparation of Su!/o-The Camphor-dealer-Ludicrous Mistake of a China-lad-lYlisSlOn-ground- Undecipherable Inscrip­tion-Voyage to Macao-Lord's Day-Appearance of the Island -Chinese Pagoda- Statistical Notices - Idol-worshippers-Cave of Camoens-Ancient Nunnery- Crippled Feet of Chinese Ladies

Pnge

-Portuguese Papists- Tea..plantations--Pearl-shell Windows. 23'2

CHAPTER XLI.

Deputation sail to Oanton-Chinese Dram~tic Exhibition-Music­Deputation Visit the Govei'nor - Description of the Suburbs of Canton - Hong Merchants - City Wall- Trades and Shops­Cracker-cages-Beggars-A T ea-Iiouse-Population of Cantoll­British Factory-Edible Birds' Nests-Bad Food of the Poor- ' Chop-sticks - Idol-wol'ship- Ancient T emple-Sacred Swine-A Hong Merchant- Wampooa-The Three Forts-Contrivances on the River-Magnificent Entertainment-A Chinese Bride 248

CHAPTER XLII.

Another Hong Merchant;s Hospitality-Dancing-Taking leave of a Friend- Marriage-procession- Smugglers of Opium - Christmas Day-Deputation return to Singapore-Clunship alld Inhumanity of the Chinese-.Deputation proceed to Maluc'ca-Descl'iption of that Town-Extraordinary Tree-Pepper-plulltations-Schools in ' Ma­lacca-Chinese Fopperies-Proficiency of Native Scholars-Foun­dation of a Chapel laid-Chinese Emigrants-Tomb of Dr. Milne­Process of Extracting TOddy-Land-crabs, Frogs, and Alligators­Arrival at Pinang-Sabbath Exercises-Fantastic Mal'riage-proces­sion-Waterfall-Popish Mission College-Singular Paintings-A deposed King-"T~e Great 'free-Monkeys and Birds-Sensitive Plant-Dress ani! Habitations of the Malays-Personal Habits-Musical Cricket-Ingenious Spider . . . . . . . 266

I t

CHAPTER XLIII.

Voyage to Calcutta-Enter the River Hooghly-Approach to the Cit.y-The Rev. James I-lill-Visiting various Places-Archdeacon Corrie-Female Orphan School-The Black Town-Fort William -Museum of the Asiatic Society-Town Hall-Visit to the Episcopal Clergy-The Palanquin-Ramohun Roy-Intensity of the Heat - Bishop's College - Botanical Garden-Banyan-tree­Visit to Sel'ampore-Dr. Careyar,d bis Colleugues-A Temple of Juggernaut-Mllhommedan Mosque-Baptist College-Return to Calcutta-Bridal Pageant-Bullocks-Mr. Trawin, at Kidderpore -Dancing Serpents--Docility and Sagacity of Elephants-Kalee Ghaut-Swinging-machine . . ' . . . . 288

CHAPTER XLIV.

Sailing up the Hooghly-Jdllffaloes orossing the River-Milkmen on the Ganges_Evening Sights and SOlillds-Stllong Current--Ril'cl'­scenery-Shocking Spectacle-Burning of a Hindoo Corpse-A

CONTENTS. vii

P.~c Yogee or Hindoo Saint-A Funeral by Water-Benares--Allahabad - Voluntary Drownings - Baboon-worship - Subterranean Temple - Barbers and Bathers-Superb Mahommedan Procession-Privi-leged Monkeys-Native Termagants-Fashion~ at Benares. . . 312

, ,

CHAPTER XLV.

Departure from Benares-Farm-establishment-Monument at Patna -Boat swamped-Hot Springs near Monghir-Singular Su,Persti­tion-An Entertainment-Worship of Working-tools-Ridmg on Elephants-Sagacity of those Animal,s-Hilldoo and Mahommedall Oaths-Indifference of Criminals to the Sentences passed on them­Infunticide-A great Piece of Ordnance-The Adjutant-crane­Festival of Doorga--The Bull-gpd-,!;ongue-boring- Worship of a black Stone . , . . • " . . . ... , . . . . . . • . . 333

CHAPTER XLVI_

Deputation sail for Madras - Arrival at Vizagapatam - Dr. Bell's School-system-Madras-Sir Thomas MOTlroe-Chowltries, or Ca­ravanseras~Arcot--Pungalore-Palanquin-bearers-Guramconda­Tigers-Arrival at Cuddapah-Hindoo Villainy-Festival 'of Cama, at Bellary-Ruins of BejamlB'huir-The Cow and the Tiger-New­year Festival at Gudduck-Village }o' ortresses-Whirlwind at Kit­toor-Chrisuian Natives at Belgaum-Bathing of, Buffaloes-Ants2.. Indian Gipsies • 349

CHAPTER XL VII.

Arrival at Goa..c....Condition of Inhabitants-Buildings of the Inquisi­tion-Visit to the Dungeons, &c.-Roman Catholics in India­Visit Cannonmore-Lion-ant -An Anecdote -Vengeance of an Elephant-Destruction of Tigers-Pendulous Bees-nests-Fish fed by the Hand- Arrival at Mysore- RoyaJ. Elephant-carriage­Pagoda - Animal-fights - Colossal Bull-image - Seringapatam­Whimsical Mistake-Ants' Nests-Cham~leon-Nilgherry Moun­tains-Boa Constrictor-ScarecrO\vs-,Ci vet-Cats-Cape Cam orin Right and Left-hand Castes-Hindoo Covetousness . . 366

CHAPTE,R XL VIII.

Missions in North India.-Calcutta, &c.-Serampore-Chinsurah­Progress up the Ganges to Benares-Patna---.Benares-Chunar­Mirzapore-..;\Jlahabad-Benares-Gazeepoor-Dinapoor- Djgah-Berhampore ' ,' • • 387

CHAPTER XLIX.

Missions in South India.-Geographical Description of Vizagapatam -State of the Missions in Vizagapatam-Tripassoor-Geographical Description of Chittoor-Religious Se~vices at Chittoor-Geographi-cal Description of Cuddapah-State of the Mission at Cuddapah­De!cription of the Hindoo Festival, called Gallgamma Tirnal . . 40G

CONTENTS. vii

P.~c Yogee or Hindoo Saint-A Funeral by Water-Benares--Allahabad - Voluntary Drownings - Baboon-worship - Subterranean Temple - Barbers and Bathers-Superb Mahommedan Procession-Privi-leged Monkeys-Native Termagants-Fashion~ at Benares. . . 312

, ,

CHAPTER XLV.

Departure from Benares-Farm-establishment-Monument at Patna -Boat swamped-Hot Springs near Monghir-Singular Su,Persti­tion-An Entertainment-Worship of Working-tools-Ridmg on Elephants-Sagacity of those Animal,s-Hilldoo and Mahommedall Oaths-Indifference of Criminals to the Sentences passed on them­Infunticide-A great Piece of Ordnance-The Adjutant-crane­Festival of Doorga--The Bull-gpd-,!;ongue-boring- Worship of a black Stone . , . . • " . . . ... , . . . . . . • . . 333

CHAPTER XLVI_

Deputation sail for Madras - Arrival at Vizagapatam - Dr. Bell's School-system-Madras-Sir Thomas MOTlroe-Chowltries, or Ca­ravanseras~Arcot--Pungalore-Palanquin-bearers-Guramconda­Tigers-Arrival at Cuddapah-Hindoo Villainy-Festival 'of Cama, at Bellary-Ruins of BejamlB'huir-The Cow and the Tiger-New­year Festival at Gudduck-Village }o' ortresses-Whirlwind at Kit­toor-Chrisuian Natives at Belgaum-Bathing of, Buffaloes-Ants2.. Indian Gipsies • 349

CHAPTER XL VII.

Arrival at Goa..c....Condition of Inhabitants-Buildings of the Inquisi­tion-Visit to the Dungeons, &c.-Roman Catholics in India­Visit Cannonmore-Lion-ant -An Anecdote -Vengeance of an Elephant-Destruction of Tigers-Pendulous Bees-nests-Fish fed by the Hand- Arrival at Mysore- RoyaJ. Elephant-carriage­Pagoda - Animal-fights - Colossal Bull-image - Seringapatam­Whimsical Mistake-Ants' Nests-Cham~leon-Nilgherry Moun­tains-Boa Constrictor-ScarecrO\vs-,Ci vet-Cats-Cape Cam orin Right and Left-hand Castes-Hindoo Covetousness . . 366

CHAPTE,R XL VIII.

Missions in North India.-Calcutta, &c.-Serampore-Chinsurah­Progress up the Ganges to Benares-Patna---.Benares-Chunar­Mirzapore-..;\Jlahabad-Benares-Gazeepoor-Dinapoor- Djgah-Berhampore ' ,' • • 387

CHAPTER XLIX.

Missions in South India.-Geographical Description of Vizagapatam -State of the Missions in Vizagapatam-Tripassoor-Geographical Description of Chittoor-Religious Se~vices at Chittoor-Geographi-cal Description of Cuddapah-State of the Mission at Cuddapah­De!cription of the Hindoo Festival, called Gallgamma Tirnal . . 40G

viii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER L. rage

Bellnry- Belgaum-Goa.-Bangalore- Salem (new Station)-Coim­betoor-Quilon-Visit to Cotym, &c.-Trivanderam-South Tra­vancore-Nllgercoil-Departure from Nagel'coil-Church Missionary Station at Palmacottah-Trichinopoly-Danish Mission at Tanjore -Combaconum-Danish Mission at Tranquebar-Madras . . . ,,426

CHAPTER LI.

Abstract of the Farewell-letter of the Deputation to the Missionaries on the various Stations of the Society in India . . . '. . • . 4.7,'1

CHAPTER LII.

Embarkation for the Mauritius or Isle of France-Arrival at Port Louis-Deliberations about Visiting Madagascar-Town, College, ChUl'ches, &c. of Port Louis - State of Society- Slavery- M. Perille-Anecdotes of Slaves-Dreadful Hurricane-Information respecting Madagascar-Examples of Barbarous Usages and Despotic Cruelties • • • 487

CHAPTER LIII.

Fmther Information respecting Madagascar-The late Mr. Hastie, British Agent at Tananarivo-Customs in Madagascar on the Death of a Native-Tribute to the King-Royal Exhortation in favour of Husbandry-Punishment of Offenders-Sumptuary Law-Cleanli­ness-Burying Valuables with the Dead-Child-murder-Singular Release of Prisoners-Rataffe-Charms, or Amulets-Barbarous Ordeal-Expedition of King Radama-King's Army-Peculiar Burial-service-Spirituous Liquor-Band of Robbers attacked­Moderation of Radama.-Northern part of Madagascar-Preserved Sculls-Favour shewn to British Ships-Characteristic Dialogue­Mode of catching Fish-Alligators-Monkeys-The word Vahing­Large Bamboos-Wild Bulls-Prayer of an aged Chieftain for Suc­<:ess in an Enterprise-Vampire-Bats-Wild Boars7"Native Greet­ings-Domestic Animals-Grain cultivated-Malagasse Women­Notices of the Country-Conduct of the King during an Expedition 506

CHAPTER LIV.

A Bullock-ship arrives at the Mauritius-The Deputation sail for Ma­dagascar-Arrive at Tamatave-Proceed towards 1'ananarivo-Vari-ous Circumstances and Incidents by the Way-Fortified ViJlages­Tombs-Arrival and reception at the Capital-:-Death !Jf the Rev. Daniel Tyerman~Death ,of the King of Madagascar-Missionaries' Letter to Mr. Bennet . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . 532

CHAPTER LV.

Funeral of King Radama-Abstract of a Letter from Mr. Bennet, the surviving Deputy, to James Montgomery, giving a brief Account of his Proceedings after the Death of Mr. Tyerman-his Return to the Mauritius-his Visit to South Africa-and his Voyage Home. . 549

viii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER L. rage

Bellnry- Belgaum-Goa.-Bangalore- Salem (new Station)-Coim­betoor-Quilon-Visit to Cotym, &c.-Trivanderam-South Tra­vancore-Nllgercoil-Departure from Nagel'coil-Church Missionary Station at Palmacottah-Trichinopoly-Danish Mission at Tanjore -Combaconum-Danish Mission at Tranquebar-Madras . . . ,,426

CHAPTER LI.

Abstract of the Farewell-letter of the Deputation to the Missionaries on the various Stations of the Society in India . . . '. . • . 4.7,'1

CHAPTER LII.

Embarkation for the Mauritius or Isle of France-Arrival at Port Louis-Deliberations about Visiting Madagascar-Town, College, ChUl'ches, &c. of Port Louis - State of Society- Slavery- M. Perille-Anecdotes of Slaves-Dreadful Hurricane-Information respecting Madagascar-Examples of Barbarous Usages and Despotic Cruelties • • • 487

CHAPTER LIII.

Fmther Information respecting Madagascar-The late Mr. Hastie, British Agent at Tananarivo-Customs in Madagascar on the Death of a Native-Tribute to the King-Royal Exhortation in favour of Husbandry-Punishment of Offenders-Sumptuary Law-Cleanli­ness-Burying Valuables with the Dead-Child-murder-Singular Release of Prisoners-Rataffe-Charms, or Amulets-Barbarous Ordeal-Expedition of King Radama-King's Army-Peculiar Burial-service-Spirituous Liquor-Band of Robbers attacked­Moderation of Radama.-Northern part of Madagascar-Preserved Sculls-Favour shewn to British Ships-Characteristic Dialogue­Mode of catching Fish-Alligators-Monkeys-The word Vahing­Large Bamboos-Wild Bulls-Prayer of an aged Chieftain for Suc­<:ess in an Enterprise-Vampire-Bats-Wild Boars7"Native Greet­ings-Domestic Animals-Grain cultivated-Malagasse Women­Notices of the Country-Conduct of the King during an Expedition 506

CHAPTER LIV.

A Bullock-ship arrives at the Mauritius-The Deputation sail for Ma­dagascar-Arrive at Tamatave-Proceed towards 1'ananarivo-Vari-ous Circumstances and Incidents by the Way-Fortified ViJlages­Tombs-Arrival and reception at the Capital-:-Death !Jf the Rev. Daniel Tyerman~Death ,of the King of Madagascar-Missionaries' Letter to Mr. Bennet . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . 532

CHAPTER LV.

Funeral of King Radama-Abstract of a Letter from Mr. Bennet, the surviving Deputy, to James Montgomery, giving a brief Account of his Proceedings after the Death of Mr. Tyerman-his Return to the Mauritius-his Visit to South Africa-and his Voyage Home. . 549

.IOURN AL.

CHAPTER XXVII.

Arrival at ·Borabora.-Missionary Settlement at Beulah-,Appearance of Native Congt'egation~Congratulatory , Addresses and Presents-Mar­riages-Island of Maupiti-Retlections on its Loneliness-The Depu­tation welcomed-Savage Practices of the People of Maupiti in former Times-Effects of Infanticide-Ninety Persons baptized-Deserted Mara~s-Missionary Collection-Return to Borabora-Eetimation of the Scriptures-Rogues and Vagabonds-Execution of II Criminal-Mis­sionary Meeting-Laws, revi!~d-PI'isoners' Sentences commuted~ Fortifications.

1828. Feb. IS. wiTH a fine breeze, we embarked this afternoon in. Mr. Orsmond's boat, accompanied by Mai, one of the two kings of Borabora, who had kindly come over from thence expressly to convoy the Deputation, in honour of the Society whose servants we are for Christ's sake. That singular island, at the distance of fifteen miles, came full upon our view wh~ we had passed the -reef of Tahaa and entered 'the open sea. It consists of one pyramidical ,moun­tain, towering, as it fronted us, very steeply, to the height of two thousand feet, and crowned with an inaccessible crag of bare rocl<, which appeared to be a quadrangular mass, laid on like a topstone. Below this, herbage and trees gradually thicken downwards to the shore. On the east and west tlle

VOL. IT. B

.IOURN AL.

CHAPTER XXVII.

Arrival at ·Borabora.-Missionary Settlement at Beulah-,Appearance of Native Congt'egation~Congratulatory , Addresses and Presents-Mar­riages-Island of Maupiti-Retlections on its Loneliness-The Depu­tation welcomed-Savage Practices of the People of Maupiti in former Times-Effects of Infanticide-Ninety Persons baptized-Deserted Mara~s-Missionary Collection-Return to Borabora-Eetimation of the Scriptures-Rogues and Vagabonds-Execution of II Criminal-Mis­sionary Meeting-Laws, revi!~d-PI'isoners' Sentences commuted~ Fortifications.

1828. Feb. IS. wiTH a fine breeze, we embarked this afternoon in. Mr. Orsmond's boat, accompanied by Mai, one of the two kings of Borabora, who had kindly come over from thence expressly to convoy the Deputation, in honour of the Society whose servants we are for Christ's sake. That singular island, at the distance of fifteen miles, came full upon our view wh~ we had passed the -reef of Tahaa and entered 'the open sea. It consists of one pyramidical ,moun­tain, towering, as it fronted us, very steeply, to the height of two thousand feet, and crowned with an inaccessible crag of bare rocl<, which appeared to be a quadrangular mass, laid on like a topstone. Below this, herbage and trees gradually thicken downwards to the shore. On the east and west tlle

VOL. IT. B

2 AURIVAt, AT llOUAllOUA.

flanks slope more gradually, and the lower end presents a gently undulated surface till it dips into the sea. The light wind bore us slowly towards this noble object, which we contemplated with unsatisfied but imperceptibly chang-ing delight, as its features increased in magnitude and distinct­ness, till, in the luxuriance of a fertile, fair, and peopled isle, we forgot the dim and visionary grandeur with which we had first beheld it, looming upon the horizon, and scarcely seeming to be "of the earth, earthy.o, Near though it seemed, at the .end of four hours, and as if we might have swam to it, yet, before we could reach the port we aimed at, the sun went down, and the glorious scene became a black shadow, whose outline was broadly distinguishable from tlle sky on which it was delineated, while it darkened our path upon the deep waters beneath, as we warily steered round the western extremity, that terminates in a reef far stretching into the sea. This point must be doubled to enter the lagoon of the Missionary harbour, which is further defended by a barrier of coral rock, a small island called Tabua, and several motus, encircling the .basin. The nigllt was clear and calm, the firmament alive with stars, and the sea as quiet as a slumbering infant. Thus favourably circum­stanced, at midnight, a time most unseasonable for threading' an intricate and perilous maze of rocks, and shoals, and fathomless gulfs, we were mercifully brought through the opening in the reef; and about two o'clock in the morning landed in Borabora.

Feb. l4<. The Missionary settlement, picturesquely skirt­ing the bay, is called Beulah, and there are circumstances in the recent history of this obscure island which warrant the quotation here of that splendid portion of pro·phecy in which the word occurs; and, surely, without violence, more than one of the exceeding great and precious promises

2 AURIVAt, AT llOUAllOUA.

flanks slope more gradually, and the lower end presents a gently undulated surface till it dips into the sea. The light wind bore us slowly towards this noble object, which we contemplated with unsatisfied but imperceptibly chang-ing delight, as its features increased in magnitude and distinct­ness, till, in the luxuriance of a fertile, fair, and peopled isle, we forgot the dim and visionary grandeur with which we had first beheld it, looming upon the horizon, and scarcely seeming to be "of the earth, earthy.o, Near though it seemed, at the .end of four hours, and as if we might have swam to it, yet, before we could reach the port we aimed at, the sun went down, and the glorious scene became a black shadow, whose outline was broadly distinguishable from tlle sky on which it was delineated, while it darkened our path upon the deep waters beneath, as we warily steered round the western extremity, that terminates in a reef far stretching into the sea. This point must be doubled to enter the lagoon of the Missionary harbour, which is further defended by a barrier of coral rock, a small island called Tabua, and several motus, encircling the .basin. The nigllt was clear and calm, the firmament alive with stars, and the sea as quiet as a slumbering infant. Thus favourably circum­stanced, at midnight, a time most unseasonable for threading' an intricate and perilous maze of rocks, and shoals, and fathomless gulfs, we were mercifully brought through the opening in the reef; and about two o'clock in the morning landed in Borabora.

Feb. l4<. The Missionary settlement, picturesquely skirt­ing the bay, is called Beulah, and there are circumstances in the recent history of this obscure island which warrant the quotation here of that splendid portion of pro·phecy in which the word occurs; and, surely, without violence, more than one of the exceeding great and precious promises

MISSION ArtY SE'l'TLEMEN'l' AT BEULAH. 3

which it contains may ·Le applied to the little Israel of Borabora, and to Beulah, its Jerusalem: "The Gentiles shall see thy righteousness, and all kings thy glory; and t!tou shalt be called by a new name, which. the mouth of the Lord shall name. Thou shalt be a crown qf glory in the handqf the Lord, and a royal diadem in t!te hand of thy God. Thou shalt nO mQre be termed Forsaken, neither shall thy land any more be termed Desolate; but tl{Ol~ shalt be called H ephzibah, and thy land Beulah; . for the Lord delighteth in thee, and thy land shqll be married." Isaiah lxii. 2-4.

We shall forbear to expatiate on the local scenery, the patriarchal form of government, the church services, the ·improved style of building, and the progress of civilization, in the train of the gospel, among these people,-having recorded at sufficient length corresponding circumsta!lces in ·our observations upon other islands. Borabora, in these respects, is behind none which we have visited in the wind­ward group; or, to say the least, it might be exhibited as a favourable average specimen, on all the points above men­tioned, of the whole. . Borabora is divided into seven districts, over which there are two kings, Mai and Tefaaoro. Mai is distinguished, like his royal brethren of Raiatea and Tahaa, ·for his fervent piety, his peaceful spirit, and the wise administration of his government. When Mr. Orsmond came hither, in 1820, 'this prince, who owned the district in which the settlement stands, gave him possession of a considerable portion of land adjacent, for the maintenance of the Mission.

Feb. 16. (Lord's day.) At the early prayer-meeting' nearly the whole congregation, amounting' to a thousand persons, were present. Two natives, including Mai, the king, engaged in the public services, by offering such

13 2

MISSION ArtY SE'l'TLEMEN'l' AT BEULAH. 3

which it contains may ·Le applied to the little Israel of Borabora, and to Beulah, its Jerusalem: "The Gentiles shall see thy righteousness, and all kings thy glory; and t!tou shalt be called by a new name, which. the mouth of the Lord shall name. Thou shalt be a crown qf glory in the handqf the Lord, and a royal diadem in t!te hand of thy God. Thou shalt nO mQre be termed Forsaken, neither shall thy land any more be termed Desolate; but tl{Ol~ shalt be called H ephzibah, and thy land Beulah; . for the Lord delighteth in thee, and thy land shqll be married." Isaiah lxii. 2-4.

We shall forbear to expatiate on the local scenery, the patriarchal form of government, the church services, the ·improved style of building, and the progress of civilization, in the train of the gospel, among these people,-having recorded at sufficient length corresponding circumsta!lces in ·our observations upon other islands. Borabora, in these respects, is behind none which we have visited in the wind­ward group; or, to say the least, it might be exhibited as a favourable average specimen, on all the points above men­tioned, of the whole. . Borabora is divided into seven districts, over which there are two kings, Mai and Tefaaoro. Mai is distinguished, like his royal brethren of Raiatea and Tahaa, ·for his fervent piety, his peaceful spirit, and the wise administration of his government. When Mr. Orsmond came hither, in 1820, 'this prince, who owned the district in which the settlement stands, gave him possession of a considerable portion of land adjacent, for the maintenance of the Mission.

Feb. 16. (Lord's day.) At the early prayer-meeting' nearly the whole congregation, amounting' to a thousand persons, were present. Two natives, including Mai, the king, engaged in the public services, by offering such

13 2