modifications in version “_d”: - edited, relocated sawta logo – was slightly oblong in shape,...

Modifications in version “_d”:

- edited, relocated SAWTA logo – was slightly oblong in shape, positioning was somewhat random.

- step 21: updated drawing of plate pillars to show them geometrically correct (threads were wrong length, but stated dimension was correct).

- step 25: updated drawing of center wheel arbor modification – made square end longer and threaded end longer.

- step 39: updated drawing of pallet assembly – it was missing the brass spacer.

- addition of steps 40 – 43: assembling, testing, disassembling the clock.

- addition of steps 44 – 46: forming the dial.

- addition of steps 47 – 49: forming/finishing the dial pillars, screws and hour markers.

- addition of steps 50 – 52: forming/finishing the hour and minute hand hubs, modifying the hour wheel.

- addition of steps 53 – 56: forming the hands.

- addition of steps 57 – 60: finishing the hands, fastening the hands to their hubs.

- addition of step 61: forming the nuts for the plate pillars.

- addition of step 62: finishing the dial.

- addition of steps 63 – 64: slotting, finishing, bluing the dial hour markers.

- addition of steps 65 – 69: finishing, cleaning all made brass components.

- addition of step 70: plating the brass clock components.

- addition of step 71: fastening the hour markers.

- addition of step 72: cleaning, assembling, lubricating the clock.

- addition of step 73: adjusting the clock.

SWISS AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS TRAINING ALLIANCE

CLOCK PROJECT

Year One

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 1a Disassemble Hermle 77

1. Remove pendulum suspension screw (may have a small spring).2. Remove pend. suspension spring and connecting piece.3. Separate connecting piece from suspension spring.4. Store suspension spring away very safely.5. Remove pallet bridge screws.5. Block escape or fourth wheel with fingers.6. Remove pallet bridge.7. Remove pallet.8. Let movement run down at low speed, while braking wheel with finger.9. Mark unused hole next to trapezoid-shaped window “Do Not Use.”10. Numerically label all gear train holes, in order, 1 – 7.11. Disassemble movement.

Equipment, Tools: small crescent wrench set of larger screwdrivers sharpie

Time: 20 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 1b Disassemble Hermle 77

Removal of center wheel and cannon pinion:- secure nut on backwards, fully seat to shoulder.- support front plate in one hand, with fingers around the center wheel supporting the plate.- hammer on threaded end of center wheel to remove cannon pinion.- cannon pinion slides off fairly easily.

Separation of the barrel lid from barrel: - hold barrel firmly in palm of hand with lid facing down.

- hammer firmly on end of arbor that is facing upward with larger rawhide or plastic mallet.- this will pop lid off into palm leaving mainspring inside.- grab arbor with pliers, rotate counter-clockwise to disengage hook from mainspring.- rotate/pull arbor out, while fingers block mainspring.

Equipment, Tools: rawhide or plastic mallet

Time: 10 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 2a Preparing to cut the plates

Materials: .08” x 12” x 12” brass flat stock 1:1 drawing

Equipment, Tools: pc with printer scissors super glue

Time: 20 minutes

1) Print three of this drawing direct from DeltaCad. The drawing scale must be 25.4. The print region must be set to 1.

2) Glue all three to one piece of the 12" x 12" flat brass stock; place such that three tabs (as shown) will protrude as depicted.

- See Step 2b before gluing -

Note: Any drawing supplied within this ppt.clock procedure is not to a 1:1 scale.

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 2b Preparing to cut the plates

This is the most efficient layout possible. Careful sawing is required to avoid wasted material.

Note: Do not place the printouts too close to the border of the brass stock.

Step 3

Cut out the plates:- leave slightly oversized for final finishing later.- some cuts will require deep throat saw frame.- saw such that 3 tabs exist on each plate, as shown.- the tabs are approximate in size/location.- the tabs will be sawed off at a later stage (they are the connection points).

Cutting the plates

Equipment, Tools: standard jeweler’s saw frame deep throat saw frame several coarse saw blades bench vise

Time: 1 – 3 hours

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 4 Attaching the plates

Materials: soft solder flux

Equipment, Tools: soldering torch eye goggles

Time: 30 minutes

Deburr, then attach two plates to each other via soft soldering:- ensure the drawing is facing outward on one plate.- ensure they are well aligned to each other.- a soft solder is performed at each tab.

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 5 Marking the hole locations

Equipment, Tools: prick punch 5/10x loupes watchmakers hammer

Time: 20 minutes

Each circle has a smallhole in the middle to accept

the tip of a prick punch.

GT 2

GT 1

1) Form a dimple with a prick punch in the center of each hole on the drawing. - make dimples for points marked "GT1" and "GT2" very shallow.

2) Inspect dimples for centering accuracy; move as needed.

Note: once a drawing is chosen to mark,Do Not Use the drawing on the otherplate for any purpose.

© 2010 SAWTA

Enlarge only these dimpleswith a center punch

GT1

GT2

1) Trace a line connecting dimples marked "GT1" and "GT2". - these locations are the reference for the straight line gear train.

2) Trace 4 lines connecting the 4 dimples. - these locations are for the crutch aperture, to be formed later.

3) Enlarge other prick punch dimples with a center punch, as required for hole size. - do not enlarge the 6 dimples used for tracing.

Step 6 Preparing for drilling

Equipment, Tools: ruler scribe center punch 5/10x loupes watchmakers hammer

Time: 20 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 7 Drilling the plates

Equipment, Tools: sharpie 3.00 drill bit 3.90 drill bit drill press 5x loupe countersink cutters

Time: 30 minutes

6 plate pillar holes:Ø 3.00

barrel arbor hole:Ø 3.90

1) Label the dimples to be drilled with the drill bit size (sharpie).

2) Drill only the specified holes: - the 6 plate pillar holes - the barrel arbor hole

- the listed sizes are the drill bit size (holes will be enlarged slightly later).

- Do Not Drill other dimples!

3) Deburr/lightly chamfer each hole.

© 2010 SAWTA

Use the Hermle plates to locate the remainder of the gear train:- starting with the existing barrel arbor hole, form the rest of the gear train holes, one-by-one.

1) for each hole to be formed, use the prior drill bit used as a positioner to determine the distance from the formed hole

to the next hole to be formed.2) place the drill bit through the hole that was just formed.3) locate the hole in the Hermle plate for the prior hole that was just drilled, and place it around the drill

bit.4) align the next hole to be formed so that the straight traced line on the raw plate bisects the hole.5) ensure drill bit is perpendicular, secure the Hermle plate to the raw plate with some super glue on 1 or 2 corners.6) drill the next hole by feeding the drill bit through the desired Hermle hole into the raw plate, and through both.7) retract drill chuck, stop drill press, remove plates.8) by placing a piece of brass against the side of the Hermle plate, a firm hammer blow against the piece of brass will

separate the Hermle plate from the raw plates.

Note: a depthing tool can be used, but only as a pedagogical activity to demonstrate and provide experience of depthing errors. For achieving an outcome of building the clock, a drilling template is necessary.

See the following steps for the entire gear train.

Information for forming the gear train holes

© 2010 SAWTA

Drill week wheel hole:Ø 1.45 drill bit

1) Place drill bit through barrel arbor hole.

2) Place barrel hole in rear Hermle plate around barrel drill bit.

3) Align week wheel hole to center line.

4) Align drill bit perpendicular, secure set-up.

5) Drill week wheel hole.

Align rear Hermle plateto clock plate via prior

used 3.90 barrel drill bit

Step 8 Drilling the week wheel hole

Equipment, Tools: 1.45 drill bit 3.90 drill bit drill press 5x loupe countersink cutters hammer

Time: 15 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Drill ctr wheel wheel hole:Ø .95 drill bit

1) Place drill bit through week wheel hole.

2) Place week wheel hole in rear Hermle plate around week wheel drill bit.

3) Align center wheel hole to center line.


5) Drill center wheel hole.

Align rear Hermle plateto clock plate via priorused 1.45 week wheel

drill bit

Step 9 Drilling the center wheel hole

Equipment, Tools: .95 drill bit 1.45 drill bit drill press 5x loupe countersink cutters hammer

Time: 15 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Drill third wheel hole:Ø .65 drill bit

1) Place drill bit through center wheel hole.

2) Place center wheel hole in rear Hermle plate around center wheel drill bit.

3) Align third wheel hole to center line.


5) Drill third wheel hole.

Align rear Hermle plateto clock plate via priorused .95 center wheel

drill bit

Step 10 Drilling the third wheel hole

Equipment, Tools: .65 drill bit .95 drill bit drill press 5x loupe countersink cutters hammer

Time: 15 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Drill fourth wheel hole:Ø .65 drill bit

1) Place drill bit through third wheel hole.

2) Place third wheel hole on either Hermle plate around third wheel drill bit.

3) Align fourth wheel hole to center line.


5) Drill fourth wheel hole.

Align either Hermle plateto clock plate via prior

used .65 third wheeldrill bit

Step 11 Drilling the fourth wheel hole

Equipment, Tools: two .65 drill bits drill press 5x loupe countersink cutters hammer

Time: 15 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Drill escape wheel hole:Ø .65 drill bit

Align either Hermle plateto clock plate via priorused .65 fourth wheel

drill bit

1) Place drill bit through fourth wheel hole.

2) Place fourth wheel hole on either Hermle plate around fourth wheel drill bit.

3) Align escape wheel hole to center line.


5) Drill escape wheel hole.

Step 12 Drilling the escape wheel hole

Equipment, Tools: two .65 drill bits drill press 5x loupe countersink cutters hammer

Time: 15 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Drill pallet arbor hole:Ø .95 drill bit

1) Place drill bit through escape wheel hole.

2) Place escape wheel hole on front Hermle plate around esc wheel drill bit.

3) Align pallet arbor hole to center line.


5) Drill pallet arbor hole.

Align either Hermle plateto clock plate via prior

used .65 escape wheeldrill bit

Drilling the pallet holeStep 13

Equipment, Tools: .95 drill bit .65 drill bit drill press 5x loupe countersink cutters hammer

Time: 15 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 14 Forming the crutch window

Equipment, Tools: watchmakers hammer prick punch center punch choice of drill bit drill press jewelers saw and blades escapement files 5x loupe

Time: 2 hours

The new dimples are formedinside the trace lines, in thegeneral proportions shown.

1) Form 4 dimples within each corner of traced crutch window. - place them so that when they are drilled, the drilled holes do not extend beyond trace lines.

2) Drill the 4 holes. - any drill may be used as long as a jeweler's saw blade fits through and the hole does not extend beyond the trace lines.

3) Saw out the crutch window.

4) File the crutch window to the trace lines. - filing can be rough; don't waste time.

Note: the window is formed in both plates -it serves as an escapement viewingwindow on the front plate.

The crutch window will bebrought to final size/shapelater (will be opened up alittle more from this size).

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 15 Separating the plates

Separate, saw, file and label the plates:- label the plate with the traced gear train line as “front outside” (use sharpie).- label the other plate as “rear outside”.

- working around the tabs, file the plate sides flush and level to each other, and to the border lines on the attached drawing.- file the undersides so that the gear train is roughly perpendicular to the bench top.

- saw off each tab.

- file these surfaces to be flush/level with the rest of the sides.

- label the inner surfaces of the plates as “front inside” and “rear inside”.

Key point to observe over the course of making the clock:- never let the labels fully disappear from the plates.- if it is seen the sharpie is eroding, re-apply labeling as needed.

Equipment, Tools: jeweler’s saw and blades pillar file, cut #2 pillar file, cut #4 sharpie bench vise

Time: 2 hours

© 2010 SAWTA

Form an arc that is 5.50 fromaxis of pallet, form dimple at

intersection, drill Ø 2.90 hole

Pallet hole is pivoting pointfor spring divider

Rear plate("rear inside")

1) Drill a Ø .95 hole on scrap flat brass.

2) Set spring dividers to exactly 5.50 mm apart.

3) Place one tip in the hole, then trace an arc.

4) Measure distance from center of hole to arc.

5) Adjust, repeat procedure as necessary on the scrap brass until arc is exactly 5.50 mm from the center of the hole.

6) Trace a light line through the center of the gear train holes. - trace the line short so as not to confuse the rear plate with the front plate.

7) Place same spring divider (set to 5.50 mm) into pallet hole and trace an arc so that it intersects traced straight line.

8) Form dimple at intersection, drill Ø 2.90 hole. - will be enlarged later for a friction fit.

Step 16 Forming the pendulum post hole

Equipment, Tools: prick punch (scribe) ruler caliper spring divider .95 drill bit 2.90 drill bit drill press 5x loupe

Time: 60 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 17 Forming the minute wheel hole

Equipment, Tools: prick punch center punch watchmakers hammer caliper spring divider 2.10 drill bit drill press 5x loupe

Time: 60 minutes

Drill minute wheel hole:Ø 2.10

pivoting pointsfor spring divider

front plate("front outside")

1) Using same process as with pendulum post hole, trace an arc that is 12.35 mm from the axis of the center wheel hole. - spring divider pivots in ctr whl hole.

2) Likewise, trace an arc that is 19.34 mm from the axis of the week wheel hole. - spring divider pivots in wk whl hole.

3) Form prick punch at intersection of arcs. - enlarge w/center punch as required.

4) Drill minute wheel hole to Ø 2.10 - to be enlarged later for a friction fit.

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 18 Enlarging the front center wheel hole

Equipment, Tools: 2.90 drill bit drill press 5x loupe

Time: 15 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Drill to Ø 2.90

1) Enlarge center wheel hole in front plate with Ø 2.90 drill bit. - will be broached open later to final diameter

- do not mix-up plates

Front plate

This is the original clickpost hole location. If used,

there will be a very tightclearance between the

post and week wheel.

Diameter of week wheel- note how it overlaps clickpost in its original location.


55°

"CPH" - click post hole.By off-setting the click post

hole in this direction, by approx. this amount (55ºfrom the line of the gear

train), there will be noclearance issues between

the post and the wheel.

1) Place the Ø 3.90 drill bit into the barrel arbor hole of the rear plate.

2) Place the barrel arbor hole of the rear Hermle plate around the drill bit. Note: the outside of the Hermle rear platemust be flush to the "rear inside" plate.

3) Rotate Hermle plate until click post hole is aligned to a point of the clock plate as indicated by the circle labeled "CPH''. - tracing a line 55º from the gear train will help with placement.


5) Drill click post hole with Ø 2.10 drill bit.

Step 19 Forming the click post hole

Equipment, Tools: 2.10 drill bit 3.90 drill bit drill press 5x loupe

Time: 30 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 20 Drilling the dial pillar holes

Equipment, Tools: center punch 4.30 drill bit drill press 5x loupe

Time: 30 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Ø 4.30

Front plate("front oustide")

1) It is essential that these dimples are as centered as possible in their holes; correct if needed. - errors here will lead to dial fitting problems and/or dial alignment problems.

2) If not done prior, ensure dimples are center-punched.

3) Drill each of the four dimples with a Ø 4.30 drill bit. - holes will be enlarged later to achieve a friction fit.

Step 21 Forming the plate pillars

Materials: alloy 360 brass rod, ¼” x 72” (part off into small pieces)

Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe HSS cutter graver caliper calculator hacksaw/jewelers saw pillar file, cut 4

Time: one day

© 2010 SAWTA

- Turning 1- Connection Technique 1

20.00 mm

Plate Pillar (x6)

Ø 3.00 mm ¹ Ø 3.00 mm ¹

M 3 M 3

6.00 mm

Ø 6.00 mm

6.00 mm

+/- .05

+/- .10+/- .10

+/- .03

4.20 mm 4.20 mm+/- .10 +/- .10

Notes:

¹ these diameters to fit through clock plate holes with some play.

form fairly large, oversized bevels at the end of each thread.

Modifying the barrel arborStep 22

Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe HSS cutter graver caliper pillar file, cut 4, dressed safe edge roller rest

Time: 20 minutes to turn shoulder 60+ minutes to re-file square

© 2010 SAWTA

Original arbor

Modified arbor

- Turning 1- Filing 2

Barrel arbor

2) File back ratchet wheelshoulder by same amount

The position of the ratchet wheel is now moved inward by 1.15 toaccomodate the arbor bearing on the rear plate instead of a bridge.

The end of the arbor maybe left long or shortened

by the same amount

1) Turn back rear plateshoulder by 1.15 mm

Step 23a Modifying the week wheel, part 1

Equipment, Tools: Schaublin lathe watchmakers lathe HSS cutter graver caliper flame paper towel

Time: 10 minutes to remove pivot 20 minutes to shorten shoulder

© 2010 SAWTA

Week Wheel- Turning 2- Heat Treatment 1- Connection Technique 1

2) Remove the pivot - itis installed very tightly. ²

1) shorten rear pivot shoulder by 1.00 mm. ¹

The pivot is very hard - keep cutter away - only face

off the shoulder.

Notes:

¹ - this amount is based upon step 19 being done as described, (the off-set click post hole location). Otherwise, the week wheel may interfere with the top of the click post.

² - the pivot is likely fitted with a cement. Heat pivot up with a flame until very hot. Quickly chuck pivot tightly in Schaublin. Rotate week wheel off from front pivot; use paper towel around teeth.

Step 23b

Materials: O-1 oil hardening steel, 9/64” x 36” (part off into small pieces)

Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe HSS cutter graver caliper calculator heat treatment accessories

Time: approx. 2 hours

Modifying the week wheel, part 2

- Turning 2- Heat Treatment 1- Connection Technique 1

Week Wheel Extension

7.20

2.20

Ø 1.52 ²Ø 1.49 ¹

1.00 ³

+ .03

+/- .05

+/- .10

Ø 3.00

Notes:

¹ - this diameter must be equal to the diameter of the removed pivot.

² - this diameter is left some hundredths oversized, to be burnished later.

³ - this length should be equal to the amount removed from the rear shoulder.

Piece is to be hardened, then tempered to blue.

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 23c Modifying the week wheel, part 3

Equipment, Tools: staking set flat, drilled punch hammer

Time: 15 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Week Wheel- Turning 2- Heat Treatment 1- Connection Technique 1

The week wheel hasa deep, drilled hole.

Friction fit the extension into the week wheel.The shoulder seats flush to the end of the week wheel.Use staking set as depicted, fit on with punch and hammer.

Step 24 Disassembling the center wheel

Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe flat needle nose pliers

Time: 15 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Separate center wheel: - mount arbor in lathe; seat brass spacer flush to collet. - press center wheel with finger to compress spring. - guard e-clip so that it does not fly off, remove with pliers. - center wheel/pinion/spring slides off the arbor.

press wheel tocompress spring

slide out e-clip

Center Wheel

Step 25 Modifying the center wheel arbor

Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe HSS cutter graver caliper pillar file, cut 4, dressed safe edge roller rest M2 die and stock cutting fluid riveting block plastic/rawhide hammer

Time: 2-3 hours

© 2010 SAWTA

weekwheel

Center Wheel Arbor- Turning 1- Filing 2- Connection Technique 1

2.00 mm ¹(square width)

a) It may be that the e-clip interferes with the week wheel. Shorten pivot shoulder by approx. .20 - .30 mm, if necessary.

b) Place on riveting block, hammer on end of arbor; Endshake around .10 mm.

c) Shorten center wheel arbor so that stated dimensions and tolerances are obtained.

+/- .10

+/- .106.30 mm

43.00

Notes:

a,b : since the brass spacer may be used to adjust endshake, the amount of material removed from the pivot shoulder can vary - just remove the minimum necessary.

c : the flat square accomodates the minute hand hub; the threaded end accomodates the threaded end cap, which secures the minute hand hub to the arbor.

¹ : the width may vary a little from 2.00 mm. Since a minute hand hub will be made, its square hole will be shaped to accomodate the actual width formed.

Arrangement of the pallet

© 2010 SAWTA

Pallet, Assembled- Not to scale

Notes:

- The steel hub is part of the arbor.- The anchor is not reversible.- The spring brings the tension to the crutch/anchor adjustment.- The crutch connects the escapement to the oscillator.- The brass end piece frictions on arbor to allow tension.

steel hub

crutch

brass end piece

spring

spacer anchor

Step 26 Disassembling the pallet

Equipment, Tools: staking set hammer flat, drilled punch flat brass punch 5 x loupe

Time: 15 min

© 2010 SAWTA

Notes:

- Place in staking set as shown; support upon anchor.- Seat flat, drilled punch on pivot shoulder.- Hammer lightly, yet firmly on punch; pallet arbor will move down.- Stop hammering when punch reaches brass end piece.- Assembly may come off from there with light twisting/pulling.- If not, hammer very gently on tip of pivot with brass punch.

- Not to scalePallet Disassembly

anchor

Step 27 Modifying the pallet arbor

Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe HSS cutter graver caliper

Time: 15 min

© 2010 SAWTA

Shorten rear pivot shoulder by 1.15 mm.

- Turning 1Pallet Arbor

Step 28 Modifying the crutch

Equipment, Tools: 2 smooth-jawed pliers sharpie ruler

Time: 15 min

© 2010 SAWTA

- Not to scaleCrutch Modification

Steps:

1) identify apex (center) of original bend, draw a line along it, across width of crutch.2) bend crutch using 2 pliers in order to straighten it out.3) draw a second line 1.00 mm further down the crutch from original line.4) re-bend crutch such that new bend is 1.00 mm further down the crutch.

1) 2)

pallet hole

apex (center) oforiginal bend; draw a linealong apex(cross widthof crutch)

two pliers placedequidistant frombend

inner edgesshould beperpendicularto crutch

90º

3) 4)

1.00 mm

two pliers placedequidistant fromnewly traced line

inner edgesmust beperpendicular tocrutch

drawn line atoriginal bend

draw a new line1.00 mm furtherdown the crutch

approx.3.50 - 4.00 mm

Step 29 Forming the click

Materials: O-1 oil hardening flat steel, 5/64” x 3” x 18”

Equipment, Tools: jewelers saw frame saw blades super glue 3.00 drill bit drill press cutting fluid scribe variety of escapement files 30/40 micron emery paper

Time: 1+ day

© 2010 SAWTA

Click- Sawing 2- Filing 2- Drilling 1

The tail needs to extendclose to the clock border

Duplicate theHermle click beak

Ø 3.00

Steps:

1 - Glue the Hermle click to the steel stock; trace the outline with a scribe. The back half needs to be extended such that a finger easily reaches it.2 - Drill through the Hermle click hole to form the hole in the flat steel stock.3 - Duplicate the size and shape of the original Hermle click beak by sawing and filing the steel to the traced lines.4 - The "tail" portion of the click may vary from this design as long as the beak is a duplicated, and the tail extends close to the clock plate sides.5 - apply a 30 or 40 micron line finish to all surfaces for final surface finish. The finish should be straight along the length of the click for all surfaces.

Step 30 Forming the click post and nut

Materials: O-1 oil hardening steel, 13/64” x 36” (part off into small pieces)

Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe HSS cutter graver caliper roller rest pillar file, cut 4 1.60 Drill bit M 2 tap and die set of pin vises cutting fluid

Time: half day (slotting of head later)

© 2010 SAWTA

M 2

1.50

+/- .05

+/- .05

+/- .051.80

4.20 ²

+/- .10

M 2

Note: the Ø 4.50 nut diameter is basedon filing 6 flats around the circumference

Click Post and Nut- Turning 1- Filing 1- Drilling 1- Connection Technique 1

Ø 2.10 ¹

Ø 4.00

1.90 ³

+/- .05

3.00

Ø 3.00

Tolerances:

º - Based upon the existing hole in the click; must have some play for click to pivot.¹ - Based upon the existing hole in the plate; a 'snug' fit is ideal (or very little play).² - The thread length must ensure that nut tightens flush up to the plate.³ - Based upon click thickness; must have some play for click to pivot.

Ø 4.50


A typical orientationfor the click spring.

The click might be shapedmore or less like this.

1) Make a transfer punch to fit hole in click spring base.

2) Pivot the click so that it has penetrated into the ratchet wheel as far as possible; secure.

3) Place the supplied click spring such that the rounded tip rests on the click head with appropriate tension: - sufficient tension to keep the click beak always engaged to the ratchet wheel. - sufficient tension to disengage the click from the ratchet wheel without breaking it. - ensure hole of click spring base is away from week wheel. (to ensure screw head clearance to week wheel)

4) When click spring is positioned as such, stabilize and mark hole location.

5) Drill the click spring hole.

6) Thread the hole.

7) Chamfer each side

Step 31 Forming the click spring hole

Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe HSS cutter graver caliper heat treatment accessories hammer ? Drill bit ? tap drill press 5x loupe

Time: 60 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 32 Forming the click spring screw

No criteria for this yet, as actual click spring not yet obtained.

Options: 1) make screw according to obtained click spring hole.2) buy, use a generic screw.

© 2010 SAWTA

Equipment, Tools: ?

Time: 60 minutes?

Step 33a Burnishing the pivots

Three pivots need or may need to be burnished:- the front week wheel pivot.- the rear center wheel pivot (only if modified)- the rear pallet pivot.

Burnish with HSS hand burnisher at the Horia lathe:- front week wheel pivot = Ø 1.50- rear center wheel pivot = Ø 1.00- rear pallet pivot = Ø 1.00

Note: the pivots may be burnished down additionally a few hundredths smaller in order to level out the pivot completely, if needed. Since the holes are still slightly undersized, there is a small amount of tolerance.

Deburr the shoulders (graver) and the tips of the burnished pivots (stone).

See the following page for the burnishing set-up at the lathe.

Option: automated clock burnisher.

Equipment, Tools: Horia lathe w/tailstock Horia burnishing drum and nut Horia tailstock offset device HSS hand burnisher lubricating fluid caliper graver, arkansas stone 5x/10x loupes

Time: 60 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 33b Burnishing set-up at the Horia lathe

Equipment, Tools: Horia lathe w/tailstock Horia burnishing drum and nut Horia tailstock offset device HSS hand burnisher

Step 34 Enlarging the gear train holes

The gear train holes need to be enlarged for 2 reasons:1) to achieve the correct side shake, 2) to work-harden the holes.

To determine when a gear train hole size is complete:- the hole must be finalized with a smoothing broach.- when inserted into one clock plate hole, the gear should have approx. 15º - 20º side shake (tilt).

Note: after oil sinks are formedthe sideshake will increaseslightly. Keep the sideshake atthis stage closer to 10º, andre-check/fine tune after oil sinksare formed and finalized.

Note: broach all holes from both sides, equally. If the hole is fairly undersized, you may start with a cutting broach, but the last few hundredths must be finished with a smoothing broach.

Deburr all holes.

Equipment, Tools: cutting broach set smoothing broach set 5x loupe entire gear train

Time: 60 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

10º-15°

Equipment, Tools: larger reamers, in general drill press c-clamps counter sink cutters

Enlarging holes with larger reamers

© 2010 SAWTA

This applies if there is no standard clamping device present for large reamers:

Clamp the reamer in a drill press.

Unplug the drill press and/or disengage the belt from the pulley, leave lid open.

Place work piece on drill press table, align reamer to hole.

With a c-clamp, secure the c-clamp to the drill press table such that it will prevent the work piece from rotating in the direction the reamer rotates.

- Do Not clamp the work piece to the table! -

While lowering drill chuck/reamer into hole, rotate the pulley by hand to ream out the hole; use a light feed on the drill press handle.

Stop when cylindrical portion of reamer enters the hole.

When retracting drill chuck/reamer, the plate may bind and lift; the weight of the plate could snap the reamer.

During retraction, secure the plate to the table, and continue to rotate the pulley while lifting drill press handle up.

1) minute wheelpost hole

2) four dialpillar holes

Front plate("front outside")

1) Enlarge the minute wheel post hole. - the minute wheel post will be a friction fit into it. - the post has a diameter of Ø 2.30. - use a Seitz Ø 2.29 reamer (if available), or use a cutting broach.

2) Enlarge the 4 dial pillar holes. - the dial pillars will be a friction fit into them. - the pillars will have a diameter of Ø 4.48. - use a Ø 4.47 reamer.

3) Deburr both sides of all holes.

Step 35a Enlarging the front plate holes

Equipment, Tools: watchmaker cutting broach set Seitz jewelling tool 2.29, 4.47 reamer drill press c-clamps counter sink cutters 5x loupe

Time: 60 minutes

See the followingpage for moreInformation forreaming large holes

© 2010 SAWTA


1) pendulumpost hole

2) click posthole

1) Enlarge the pendulum post hole. - the pendulum post will be a friction fit into it. - the post has a diameter of Ø 3.10. - use a cutting broach.

Alternate: - reduce diameter of pendulum post to 3.00. - enlarge the hole with a 2.99 reamer in the Seitz jewelling tool.

2) If necessary, lightly enlarge the click post hole such that the post fits in with little to no play.

3) Deburr both sides of all holes.

Step 35b Enlarging the rear plate plate holes

© 2010 SAWTA

Equipment, Tools: watchmaker cutting broach set Seitz jewelling tool 2.99 reamer counter sink cutters 5x loupe item to rest other end of plate upon

Time: 30 minutes

Front plate("front outside")

1) Form an oil sink on all gear train holes. - outside of plate only.

Criteria: - oil sink is large enough that tip of pivot will not recess into hole at both extremes of endshake.

- the overall appearance is pleasing to the eye and reflects symmetry (i.e. - no random sizes). The typical arrangement is that most are of a similar size. The drawing shows such a result.

2) Deburr all gear train holes on the inside surface of the plate.

1) form an oilsink on all

gear train holes

Step 36a Forming oil sinks on gear train holes

Equipment, Tools: counter sink cutters cutting fluid both plates all gear train components 6 plate pillars 5x loupe

Time: 2+ hours

© 2010 SAWTA


1) Form an oil sink on all gear train holes. - outside of plate only.

Crireria: - same as on step 36a.

1) form an oilsink on all

gear train holes

Do Not forman oil sink!

Step 36b Forming oil sinks on gear train holes

© 2010 SAWTA

Equipment, Tools: counter sink cutters cutting fluid (optional) both plates all gear train components 6 plate pillars 5x loupe

Time: 2+ hours

Step 37 Fitting pendulum post, click/post/spring

Friction fit the pendulum post into its hole:- place rear plate onto bench top with pendulum hole over a bench leg.- position post so that slot is directly in alignment to line of gear train.- place a flat piece of brass on top of post to hammer upon.- hammer in post until shoulder seats flush to plate.- if slot is out of alignment, insert steel ruler and rotate to position.

Alternate: - press in with bench vise (use protective barrier as well).

Fit the click, click post and spring into their holes, fasten:- the slot will be cut later, so hold post head firmly with finger while tightening nut – this is sufficient for testing purposes.

Equipment, Tools: rawhide or plastic hammer small piece of flat brass small wrench for click post nut 5x loupe

Time: 15 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 38 Assembling the center wheel and barrel

Center wheel:- the reverse of step 24.

Barrel:- insert barrel arbor.- place the barrel on riveting block with the arbor in a hole.- place a protective barrier between the barrel and block.- place lid onto barrel.- hammer around the outer periphery to seat the lid – usually 1- 3 hammer blows is sufficient.

Alternate:- press on lid using a bench vise with smooth jaws.

Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe flat needle nose pliers plastic or rawhide malletTime: 15 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 39 Assembling the pallet

Equipment, Tools: staking set hammer flat drilled steel punch 5 x loupe

Time: 15 min

© 2010 SAWTA

- Not to scalePallet Assembly

arborhub

Notes:

- Place in staking set as shown; support upon arbor hub.- Seat flat, drilled punch on shoulder of brass end piece.- Ensure hole of punch is larger than pallet pivot shoulder dia.- Hammer lightly on punch to friction on brass end piece.- Stop hammering when tension spring is compresses properly: the anchor should pivot back and forth with fair resistance.

Step 40 Checking the pallet and crutch

Equipment, Tools: both plates plate pillars assembled pallet pendulum spring connecting piece

Time: 10 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Assemble pallet into plates, attach spring and connecting piece.

1) Verify safe clearance between crutch and plate.

2) Verify safe clearance between crutch and spring block.

3) Verify safe clearance between crutch and connecting piece.

4) Verify escape wheel teeth stay fully within anchor at both extremes of endshake.

5) Verify connecting piece is parallel with the crutch slot.1)

2)

3)

4)

5)

At this stage, the clock is to be tested for functionality before continuing.

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 41 Assessing endshake and division

Equipment, Tools: object to rest clock plates on to assemble movement 5x loupe

Time: 60 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

2)

3)

4)

5)

6)

Assemble gear train as depicted.

1) Check all endshakes. - should be between .10 - .30 mm, approximately. - wheel teeth should stay fully within pinion teeth at both extremes of endshake.

2) Check clearance of barrel to front plate.

3) Check clearance of week wheel to e-clip.

4) Check clearance of barrel to week wheel.

5) Check clearance of week wheel to click and/or spring.

6) Check clearance of ratchet wheel to rear plate.

Clean all internal components.- leave the assembled barrel off to the side.

Clean the clock plate holes.- only the holes in which something pivots/turns are a

concern.

Assemble the clock.- same as before.

Lubricate the clock:- apply clock oil to any and all surfaces where there is any form of sliding friction.

Wind the clock:- bring the clock to a full wind.

Adjust the pallet: (see instructor).- stabilize the crutch with one hand while placing the index finger and thumb of other hand on pallet anchor to pivot it until it is in beat.

Let the clock run:- the clock should run for 7+ days.

If clock does not run for the appropriate time, problem solve, disassemble, correct, re-assemble, re-test, etc.

Do not continue to the finishing phase until this test is successful.

Step 42 Testing the clock

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 43 Disassembling the clock

Once the clock is functional, disassemble it completely; store parts safely.

The finishing phase now starts.

© 2010 SAWTA

1) Print out a 1:1 drawing from DeltaCad.

2) With a sharpie, trace 9 equal squares on the 12" x 12" flat brass stock.

3) Saw out one of the squares.

4) Cut out, glue drawing within the square.

5) Saw out dial, sawing as close as possible to perimeters.

6) File flush to these straight lines.

7) File flush to the inner and outer diameters. - final surface finish to be applied later.

The Dial- Sawing 2- Filing 2

Step 44 Cutting the dial

Materials: .064” x 12” x 12” flat brass stock 1:1 drawing Equipment, Tools: jewelers saw and blades deep throated saw frame super glue sharpie cut #2 /4 half-round file cut #2 /4 pillar file 5 x loupe

Time: 4+ hours

© 2010 SAWTA

Ø 4.50 Ø 4.50

Ø 4.30

Ø 4.30

Ø 4.50 Ø 4.50

Ø 4.30Ø 4.30

Ø 4.30

Ø 4.30

Ø 8.30

1) Prick punch all marked holes.

2) Inspect, move dimples as needed.

3) Enlare with center punch as needed.

4) With a sharpie, label each hole with the drill bit size to be used. - note the subtle difference in sizes.

5) Drill as indicated.

6) Deburr the holes.

The Dial- Drilling 1

Step 45 Drilling the dial holes

Equipment, Tools: prick punch center punch watchmakers hammer sharpie 4.30 drill bit 4.50 drill bit 8.30 drill bit degussit stone 5 x loupe

Time: 1+ hours

© 2010 SAWTA

Ø 4.47 Ø 4.47

Ø 4.47 Ø 4.47

Ø 4.47

Ø 8.47

Ø 4.47

do notenarge

do notenarge

do notenarge

do notenarge

1) Note the holes not to be enlarged. - these are the through-holes for the dial pillars.

2) Enlarge the holes as indicated. - secure reamer in chuck of drill press. - turn off power and/or disengage belts. - clamp a c-clamp on to drill press table such that the dial cannot rotate.

- Do Not Clamp on Dial -

- lower drill chuck with one hand while rotating drill press pulley with other hand. - reamer will self-center within hole. - continue to rotate pulley while lowering drill chuck until specified diameter of reamer has entered fully into the hole.

- reverse process to extract reamer. - may have to clamp on dial to extract reamer out of hole.

3) Deburr holes.

The Dial- Reaming 1

Step 46 Enlarging the dial holes

Equipment, Tools: 4.47 reamer 8.47 reamer drill press degussit stone 5 x loupe

Time: 1 hour

© 2010 SAWTA

Step 47 Forming the dial pillars

Materials: alloy 360 brass rod, ¼” x 72” (parted off into small pieces)

Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe HSS cutter graver caliper 2.40 drill bit M 3 tap and wrench jewelers saw and blades 5 x loupe

Time: 1+ hour each

© 2010 SAWTA

Dial Pillar x4- Turning 2- Drilling 1- Connection Technique 1

Notes:

º this diameter is to be a friction fit into the front clock plate.

¹ this diameter is to fit through the dial hole with play.

² this length is such that the end of the pillar is flush to the inside of the plate.

³ this length needs to be the same on all 4 pillars.

Ø 4.48 mm º

Ø 6.30 mm+/- .05

M 3

1.10 mm+/- .102.00 mm ²

5.00 mm ³+/- .05

Ø 4.50 mm ¹

Step 48 Forming the dial pillar screws

Materials: O-1 oil hardening steel, 11/32” x 36” (parted off into small pieces)

Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe HSS cutter graver caliper M 3 die and stock cutting fluid jewelers saw and blades 5 x loupe

Time: 1 day

© 2010 SAWTA

Dial Screw (x4)

Notes:

¹ the slot width and depth to be formed with a slotting file; this will be done at a later stage.

² the outer diameter is to have a very fine line finish.

- flat heads of screws are to have a 30 micron line finish applied later - in this context leave the head thickness a little oversized for now.

1.50 mm

M 3

4.50 mm

+/- .05

+/- .05

+/- .20

¹

Ø 8.50 mm ²

- Turning 2- Connection Technique 1

Step 49 Forming the dial hour markers


Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe HSS cutter graver caliper jewelers saw and blades 5 x loupe

Time: 1.5 hours each

© 2010 SAWTA

Hour Marker (x6)- Turning 2- Connection Technique 1

Notes:

º this diameter is to be a friction fit into the dial.

¹ slot: same statement as with prior step 48.

² the end of the marker is to flush to the inside of the dial.

³ the outer diameter is to have a very fine line finish.

1.50 mm

Ø 4.48 mm º

1.70 mm ²

¹

Ø 8.50 mm ³

+/- .05

+/- .05

Step 50 Modifying the hour wheel

Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe HSS cutter graver internal-step collet caliper 5 x loupe

Time: 30 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Notes:

- clamp hour wheel teeth in an internal-stepped collet to make modification. If not available, turn a mandrel that hour wheel can be frictioned onto.

- the above modifications are based on the cannon pinion being placed approximately .30 mm from the front plate, considering endshakes

¹ to be a friction fit to hour hand hub; may vary slightly to match actual hole.

Hour Wheel- Turning 1

6.00 mm

9.85 mm

18.33 mm 9.97 mm

Ø 4.40 mm ¹

Original Modified

+/- .05

+/- .05

+/- .05

3.40 mm

4.10

Step 51 Forming the hour hand hub

Materials: alloy 360 brass rod, 7/16” x 72” (parted off into small pieces)

Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe HSS cutter graver 3-jaw chuck caliper 4.30 drill bit set of pin vises (or drill press) jewelers saw and blades 5 x loupe

Time: 2 hours

© 2010 SAWTA

Hour Hand Hub- Turning 2- Drilling 1- Connection Technique 2

3

Ø 6.50 mm+/- .05

Ø 11.00 mm+/- .05

Ø 6.47 mm ¹

Ø 4.40 mm ²

1.50 mm+/- .05

1.10 mm+/- .05

3.40 mm+/- .05

Notes:

¹ this diameter is to be a close fit to the hour hand hole; the hour hand hole will be enlarged to final diameter with a Ø 6.47 reamer.

² this diameter is to be a friction fit to the hour wheel: 1st drill hole with a Ø 4.30 drill bit, then enlarge with a cutting broach from underside. Broach until hub fits approx. halfway down. Do not fully fit on now.

³ form an undercut as on a balance staff, but proportionately larger. A punch will need to be made to rivet the hub and hand together.

Step 52 Forming the minute hand hub

Materials: alloy 360 brass rod, 7/16” x 72” (parted off into small pieces)

Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe HSS cutter graver 3-jaw chuck caliper 1.20 drill bit 2.00 - 2.30 drill bit drill press set of pin vises jewelers saw and blades small square escapement file 5 x loupe

Time: 3 hours

© 2010 SAWTA

Minute Hand Hub- Turning 1- Drilling 1- Filing 2- Connection Technique 1

Ø 9.00 mm

1.50 mm

+/- .05

+/- .05

+/- .05

+/- .05

+/- .05Ø 1.20 mm ¹

1.50 mm

3.80 mm

4.00 mm 3.97 mm ²

Notes:

¹ the minute hand will be connected to its hub via 3 pins friction fitted into these holes.

² this diameter is to be a close fit to the minute hand hole; the minute hand hole will be enlarged to final diameter with a 3.97 reamer - have little to no play in the fit.

³ the square hole of this hub should be a close fit to the square of the center wheel arbor. The center wheel arbor square is 2.00 wide, so drill first with a Ø 2.00 mm drill bit. Finish forming the hole with the small square escapement file to completion to match the modifed CW square width.

2.00 mm ³

Step 53 Preparing the hands

Materials: O-1 oil hardening steel flat stock, 1/32” x 1” x 18”

Equipment, Tools: 1:1 drawing printout super glue prick punch watchmakers hammer 5 x loupe

Time: 30 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Hand Preparation

1) Print out a 1:1 drawing of the hands.

2) Glue it to flat steel stock, as depicted, such that 6 pairs of hands will come from one piece of the flat steel stock.

3) Prick punch 4 hole locations for drilling.

approx. 5.00 mm spacing

width of flat steel stock

Step 54 Drilling the hands


Equipment, Tools: drill press, clamps prick punch center punch watchmakers hammer 4.80 drill bit 6.30 drill bit 8.30 drill bit 10.30 drill bit 5 x loupe

Time: 30 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

1) Move, adjust prick punch dimples as needed.

2) Enlarge prick punch dimples as required, with center punch.

3) Drill out the holes as indicated.

- practice drilling large holes on thin metal first.

- at this stage, if the hole(s) is clearly off center, start over, rather than formimg holes after the hands have been shaped.

4) Deburr the holes

Hand Drilling- Drilling 1

Ø 10.30 mm

Ø 8.30 mm

Ø 6.30 mm

Ø 3.80 mm

Step 55 Enlarging the hand holes


Equipment, Tools: drill press, clamps 4.97 reamer 6.47 reamer 8.47 reamer escapement file set larger half-round file 5 x loupe

Time: 2 hours

© 2010 SAWTA

Hole Enlarging- Reaming 1- Filing 2

Ø 10.50 mm

Ø 8.47 mm

Ø 6.47 mm

1) Use reamers to enlarge holes as indicated. - use in same manner as used in step 46.

- the final diameter of the smaller holes for the hubs is such that each hand fits snugly to its hub.

2) There is no reamer for the large hole in the hour hand, so that hole is brought to completion with half- round files. - if a reamer can be obtained in the Ø 10.50 range, then use it.

- the final diameter of the large hole in each hand is not that critical.

Ø 3.97 mm

Step 56 Forming the hands


Equipment, Tools: jewelers saw and blades jewelers saw table assortment of larger files needle file set bench vise 5 x loupe

Time: 1+ days

© 2010 SAWTA

Hand Shaping- Sawing 2- Filing 3

1) Saw along perimeter of hands, as close as skills allow.

2) Do not cut into the borders at all costs.

3) File hands to completion. - will need at least one escapement file with a dressed safe edge to form internal corners.

- file flush up to all borders, finish with a #4 (or finer) cut file.

When hands are cut out,they may be filed on thejeweler's saw table (sideshanging over the edge alittle, clamped with fingers),or in the bench vise (ensureit has smooth jaws).

Step 57 Forming friction pins for minute hand and hub


Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe HSS cutter graver caliper jewelers saw and blades 5 x loupe

Time: 60 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Fit minute hand to its hub, shellac/glue it in place to ensure solid connection.- drill through the three holes in the hub into and through the hand.- use same drill bit as before – Ø 1.20.- visually inspect that holes are same size and aligned to each

other.- if not, drill them out one size larger (Ø 1.25).- separate the pieces, remove any traces of shellac or glue.

Form three steel pins at the lathe that will fasten the hand to the hub.- each pin is to friction into both the hand hole and the hub hole.- the pins should be approx. flush to the underside of the hub.- the pins should be formed so that:

1) the top side is rounded and has a very fine finish.2) the top side protrudes beyond the surface of the minute hand by approx. .40 - .50 mm, and all 3 protrude by the same amount.

- see drawing of step 60 for how this looks.

Step 58 Finishing the hands


Equipment, Tools: 8½” x 11” sheet of 30/40 micron psa. flat counter top carrier for paper degussit stone heat treatment accessories. kiln 5 x loupe

items to protect work piece(s)

Time: half day

Apply a straight, uniform line finish to the sides of both hands:- use 30/40 micron psa paper attached to a carrier.- lines must be either parallel or perpendicular to the hands.

Apply a straight, uniform line finish to the tops/bottoms of both hands:- 8½” x 11” 30/40 micron psa paper glued to a flat surface.- lines are to be straight down the length of each hand.- high appearance value: no other types of marks should be visible.

Deburr the edges of each hand lightly:- draw the degussit stone along/around all edges.

Clean the hands in order to be cosmetically tempered:- any type of substance on the steel will cause uneven coloring.

Temper the hands to the desired color, typically in the middle - dark blue range.- use a kiln for time and consistency purposes.

© 2010 SAWTA

protect work piece(s) from finger prints, finger oils, scratches, etc.

Step 59

Equipment, Tools: custom riveting punch larger hammer hour hand finishing flat punch 5 x loupe

Time: 15 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Hour Hand and Hub- Connection Technique 2

Notes:

- make a riveting punch that fits to the hub in the same relationship that a punch for riveting balance staffs fits to the balance staff.

- use a large hammer to rivet it; may take several strong hammer blows.

- finish with a similar punch, but which is flat, in the same manner that a balance staff rivet is finished.

- with a tug of the fingers, the hour hand should not slip around the hub.

metal moveshere

Hand Hand

hammer

solid, hard platform

custom punch

Fastening hour hand to hour hub

Step 60 Fastening minute hand to minute hub

Equipment, Tools watchmakers hammer staking set minute hand and hub steel friction pins 5 x loupe

Time: 15 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Minute Hand and Hub- Connection Technique 1

- secure hand onto hub with holes axes in alignment.

- choose flat anvil that will support underside of hub as depicted.

- choose concave punch that is close is diameter and shape to steel pins.

- hammer lightly on punch to friction pin into hand, then into hub.

- stop hammering when the resistance is felt of the pin meeting the anvil.

hand

solid anvil in staking set

hammer

concave punch

Step 61 Forming clock pillar nuts

Materials: alloy 464 brass, 5/16” x 72” (parted off into small pieces)

Equipment, Tools: watchmakers lathe HSS cutter graver caliper 2.40 drill bit M 3 tap and wrench roller rest pillar file, cut #4 (or needle file) jewelers saw and blades 5 x loupe

Time: 1+ days

© 2010 SAWTA

3.00 mm6.00 mm

6.93 mm

M 3

Notes:

- nuts have a high appearance requirement.

- the flats are to be uniform/equal in size.

- the flats are to have a straight line finish.

- both sides are to be strongly beveled as shown.

Pillar Nuts (x12)- Turning 1- Drilling 1- Filing 1- Connection Technique 1

Step 62 Finishing the dial

Materials: aluminum oxide granules, grit 60

Equipment, Tools: #2 emery sticks 8½” x 11” sheet 60 micron grit psa. hard granite block degussit stone countersink cutter (or other tool for chamfering large holes) items to protect work piece(s)

Time: 2+ hours

© 2010 SAWTA

Apply a uniform, circumferential line finish to all diameters/sides of the dial:- use #2 emery stick; having both flat and round sticks is helpful.- line finish is to be parallel to top/bottom of dial.

Prepare the top and bottom of the dial:- finish the top and bottom of dial on 60 micron psa paper sheets.- achieve this by moving dial in a circular motion around the sheet.- finish by applying light pressure until finish is fine and uniform.- the dial also needs to be fully flattened.

Apply a granular finish to the top and bottom of the dial:- pour a handful of 60 grit AO2 granules on clean hard granite block.- firmly move dial around in a circular motion on top of the granules.- do this until there is a uniform coarse texture everywhere.- as the granules break down, continue with less pressure.- gradually lighten pressure until just the weight of the dial is used.

- finish the top side last -- finished when the texture is fine, uniform and free of scratches.

Finish the edges:- use #2 emery sticks to deburr the edges of the dial.- use degussit stone to deburr all holes.


Step 63 Finishing the plates

Equipment, Tools: 60 micron psa paper (6+ 8½” x 11” sheets).

large, flat counter top. a separate surface which can be wetted with water.

#2 emery sticks #2, #4 pillars files smoothing broach bench vise countersink cutters 5 x loupe


Time: 1-2 days

Apply the final finish to the sides of the plates:- use a #2 emery stick to smooth out and finish the sides.- the line finish is to be parallel to the top and bottom of the plates.

Prepare the inside and outside surfaces for final finishing:- lay an 8½” x 11” sheet of 60 micron psa on a flat surface that can be

wet.- apply water to both sides of the sheet.- move the plate vigorously around the sheet with pressure.- one can press selectively based on areas that may be bowed.- clean, rinse and apply fresh water often to the paper and the plate.- when all 4 surfaces are of a uniform finish, this step is done.

Apply the final finish to the to inside and outside surfaces:

this is still yet to be determined

Finish the borders on each side of each plate:- draw a #2 (or finer) emery stick at 45º angles to deburr/bevel the edges.- draw the tip of the broach along the borders of the crutch window.- deburr all holes (except gear train) with countersink cutter.


Step 64 Fastening the friction fit posts

Equipment, Tools: large hammer hard wood dowel with Ø 4.7 drilled hole on one end. protective barrier small steel ruler 5 x loupe


Time: 30 minutes

Fastening the pendulum suspension spring post:- place a clean protective barrier onto bench top (latex, vinyl, etc.).- place inside surface of rear plate onto protective barrier.- place cleaned post over hole with slot aligned to the gear train.- hold solid end of dowel on post, which also helps stabilize it.- hammer lightly on dowel with mallet until post fits partially in hole.- place steel ruler into slot to rotate post, as needed, to align slot.- continue hammering (on dowel) until post shoulder is fully seated.

Fastening the four dial pillars:- place inside surface of front plate onto clean protective barrier.- place cleaned pillar over hole.- hold drilled end of dowel over pillar, which also stabilizes it.- hammer on dowel until pillar shoulder seats flush to plate.- repeat for remaining three pillars.

Secure and protect the clock plates:- allowing a scratch on the outside of the plates means either

leaving that scratch, or removing the posts in order to remove the scratch.


Step 65 Pre-fitting the dial

Equipment, Tools: large cutting broaches degussit stone 5 x loupe


Time: 30 minutes

Test the fit of the dial in order to adjust it if necessary:- place dial onto dial pillars; it either fits and seats or it does not.- if it fits properly into place, move on to next step 66.

If the dial holes do not line up with the pillars, do the following:- line up all four and visually detect which hole/pillar is off the most.- use a cutting broach to open up the hole the bare minimum until that pillar can enter its hole.- if the dial still does not fit, visually detect the next pillar that is off.- repeat the broaching process, remove the bare minimum.- one may have to go to a third pillar until dial fits and seats.- as long as the dial fits with no radial play, there is no problem.

Deburr holes that were broached with stone, secure and protect the clock plates.


Step 66 Slotting the hour markers

Equipment, Tools: 30/40 micron psa square/triangular needle file. slotting file watchmaker’s lathe very fine tip sharpie small ruler 5 x loupe

Time: 4 hours

Preparing the 4 dial pillar screws/hour markers for slotting:- place dial onto pillars, install the 4 dial screws.- tighten the screws as tight as possible with finger tips.- draw a line down the middle of the screw head with the sharpie so that the line is pointing to a location approx. 20º short of the center wheel axis from the direction of tightening rotation.

- this way, when tightening the screws for assembly, they will start to fasten short of the slot lining up to

the center. The additional torque needed to fully fasten them allows one to align the slot to center.

- mount screw in the lathe, orient so that the sharpie line is horizontal.- using cutter in cross-slide, trace a line down the middle of the head.

Slotting the screws and hour markers:- remove from lathe, mount screw upright, file a v-groove along the traced line with the square or triangular escapement file.- form this groove as deep as possible, but not wider than slotting file.- slotting file will set into groove nicely to file the slot to completion.- slot depth should be approximately equal to half the head thickness.- file slightly deeper to allow for final finishing of the head.

Apply the same technique to other screws, except the 20º offset is not done.

Step 67 Bluing the hour markers

Equipment, Tools: 30/40 micron psa heat treatment accessories kiln 5 x loupe


Time: 2 hours

Prepare the hour markers for heat treating- it may be necessary to face off the head at the lathe to clean up slot.- apply a 30/40 micron line finish to the head.- the final finish is to be straight and parallel to the slot.

If compromised, mount marker in the lathe and re-cut the bevel on the head diameter.- ensure concentricity.

Repeat the same cleaning steps as used with the hands in step 58.

Repeat the same heat treatment steps as used with the hands in step 58.- the 10 hour markers are all to be the same color.


Step 68 Cleaning the dial

© 2010 SAWTA

The dial is mostly likely stained or somewhat discolored; it needs to be cleaned:- do not handle dial surface in any way from this point on..- blow dial off thoroughly with air gun; hold securely on outer diameter.- make no attempts to rinse or clean in water based ultrasonic solution.- soak in ammoniated clock cleaner for 30 minutes, top side facing up.- quicker and better results will come if the dial can be submerged in the cleaning solution, in an ultrasonic frequency.

Inspect the dial:- if there is still a dark-to-light discoloration, repeat the final step 62:- place top side down back onto same AO2 granules (do not use new granules at this stage – they will leave coarse/scratched finish).- press lightly and refinish one more time (fingertip pressure only).- repeat cleaning process as required, re-inspect.

Finishing the dial:- after last cleaning/last inspection, place dial on dryer, top side up.- dry thoroughly (30+ minutes)- do not touch the top of the dial from this point on.- store dial away in a safe manner.

Equipment, Tools: air gun large ultrasonic tank ammoniated clock cleaner dryer/drying element


Time: 1+ hours


Step 69 Cleaning components for plating

Clean the plates, the pillars and the crutch:- clean components so that none have any type of fingerprints, stains, tarnish or discoloration.- keep in mind that plating will not hide any type of scratch.

Equipment, Tools: tarnish remover large ultrasonic tank ammoniated clock cleaner dryer, drying element 5 x loupe


Time: 1 hour


Step 70 Plating the clock

Equipment, Tools: ? outsourced?


Time: ?

The following components will be electroplated in nickel:- the two clock plates- the pendulum suspension spring post- the six clock plate pillars- the dial- the 4 dial pillars- the crutch

The process for plating is being currently checked (outsourcing, etc.)


Step 71 Fastening the hour markers

Equipment, Tools: faced off brass cylinder, Ø 8.50, approximately 60mm length. steel ruler larger hammer protective barrier beeswax 5 x loupe


Time: 60 minutes

© 2010 SAWTA

Install the six friction fit dial hour markers:- cut out a small piece of the protective barrier to place between brass cylinder and hour markers.- apply beeswax to the inner diameter of the friction fit holes.- place larger, clean protective barrier between dial and bench top.- place an hour marker onto its hole.- align slot so that it points to middle of hole that is 180º opposite.- place small protective barrier over hour marker.- place brass cylinder on top of hour marker.- hammer on cylinder until marker starts to fit a little into its hole.- inspect slot for alignment; likely it may be off a little.- with a protective barrier, place steel ruler into the slot.- rotate ruler in order to rotate marker for slot to align.- place brass cylinder over hour marker.- continue hammering until marker seats flush to dial.- repeat process for remaining five markers.


Step 72 Cleaning, assembling, lubricating the clock

Equipment, Tools: clock movement holders, (wood, round discs ideal). clock oil, grease wrench for hex nuts 5x loupe items to protect work piece(s) Time: 4 hours


Allow up to half a day to carefully clean, assemble and lubricate the clock.- work in a manner that prevents scratches from occurring.

Step 73 Adjusting the clock

Equipment, Tools: timing machine

items to protect work piece(s) Time: 15 minutes


Adjusting the clock:- wind the clock.- attach timing machine probes.- adjust the beat by holding the crutch still while placing thumb and index finger tips of other hand onto pallet anchor in order to pivot it.- adjust rate by rotating the nut below the pendulum bob.- lower bob to slow down the rate; raise to increase.

modifications in version “_d”: - edited, relocated sawta logo – was slightly oblong in shape,...

Documents

addition of steps

hour wheel

threaded end of center

removal of center wheel

end of arbor

dial hour markers

dial pillars

brass clock components