mpc709 1969 daytona is outer final - model cars...front suspension torsion bars rear suspension...

2
6 - BODY SUB-ASSEMBLY A 7 - BODY SUB-ASSEMBLY B 8 - HOOD CUSTOM/COMPETITION 9 - BODY FINAL ASSEMBLY 10 - DECAL APPLICATION See back of the decal sheet for application instructions. PAINT BODY BEFORE ASSEMBLY. SOME FACTORY COLORS INCLUDE: Burnt Orange, White, Black, Yellow, Beige, Lime Green, Bright Red, Bright Blue Metallic, Light Blue Metallic 62 WING UPRIGHTS 62 HORIZONTAL WING 60 FENDER SCOOPS WINDSHIELD CLEAR 300 301 REAR WINDOW CLEAR TAILLIGHTS CLEAR RED (Paint Outer Trim Silver) 101 REAR BUMPER PLATED LICENSE PLATE DECAL - No. 5 or 6 73 HOOD 66C SCOOP TOP 66B SCOOP CENTER 66A SCOOP BASE 58 FENDER FILLER (57 - Other Side) CHASSIS ASSEMBLY Paint Spoiler to Match Decal REAR BODY DECAL - No. 2,3 or 6 HEMI® BADGE DECAL - No. 7 74 FRONT END NOSE CAP 111 DUAL COILS PLATED 11 FIREWALL (Paint Exterior Body Color) NOTE: Body putty may be used to blend nose to body. REMOVE SHADED AREA Use With or Without Hoop Scoop HOOD BODY ASSEMBLY 125 LICENSE PLATE BRACKET PLATED (Remove Engraving To Use Decal) 102 GAS CAP BODY DODGE CHARGER DAYTONA Dimensions Width Track, front 59.7 Track, rear 59.2 Maximum overall width 76.6 Length Wheelbase 117 Maximum overall length 226.5 Height Overall height 53.0 Engine Type & no. of cyls. 426 cid V-8 Hemi Bore and stroke 4.25 x 3.75 Carburetor One 4-bbl. Compression ratio 10.25:1 Exhaust system Dual Crankcase 4 qts. - 5qts. w/oil filter Coolant 17 qts. Horsepower @ rpm 425 @ 5000 Torque (lbs.-ft.) @ rpm 490 @ 4000 Fuel recommended Premium Chassis/Suspension Body/Frame type Unitized Front suspension Torsion bars Rear suspension Asymmetrical leaf springs Steering system Recirculating ball gear Brakes - Drum Heavy-duty brakes, standard (automatic adjusting) Front 11.0 x 3.0 Rear 11.0 x 2.5 It was during the late '60s that the NASCAR aerodynamic wars were heating up. Chrysler, long a winner on the big ovals, was getting beat by Ford with its Boss 429 engine in the sleek Torino. Chrysler countered with the Charger 500 which had a flush grille and a "fastback" rear window in place of the standard "tunneled" rear glass. Ford however, had an ace up its sleeve in the form of the Talladega which had a droop nose and a smaller flush grille. Ford continued to dominate. It was back to the drawing board (and wind tunnel) for Chrysler. A sharp-edged shovel nose was found to cut the air cleanly and a rear wing kept the back end down. Chrysler decided to get radical with the rear wing and placed it high above the car (even though a low wing worked just as well). This accomplished two things; one, the trunk could be raised without hitting the wing and two, it made the competition wonder just what Dodge knew that they didn’t! They soon found out. The Dodge Daytona of Richard Brickhouse won at Talladega and sent shockwaves through NASCAR-land and of course, Ford. To qualify as a "stock" car, NASCAR rules stipulate that at least 500 cars must be produced for sale to the general public. Dodge produced the required number and had them on sale in their showrooms on September 1st, 1969. 503 lucky people were able to purchase these winged wonders, many of which still exist today. There were only two engine options, the 375 horse 440 "wedge" or the the 425 horsepower 426 Hemi. Quite a choice! The stock Daytona came with those mysterious reverse scoops on top of the front fenders. While not really necessary for the street Daytona, the race car version needed them for tire clearance as the slick nose and wing caused enough down- force at speed to cause the tires to rub the inside of the stock fenders. The reverse scoops allowed a hole in the fender for tire clearance. Now a coveted collectors item, the radical winged Dodge Daytona is the ultimate in late sixties muscle cars. Enjoy your 1/25 scale version of this very special car. IMPORTANT HOBBY KNIFE TWEEZERS CEMENT BUILDING TIPS FOR THE ADVANCED MODELER 1/25 SCALE MODEL Dodge and HEMI ® are trademarks of Chrysler LLC. Dodge Daytona and its trade dress are used under license by Round 2, LLC. © Chrysler LLC 2009. Goodyear (and wing foot design) are trademarks of Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company, Akron, Ohio USA used under license by Round 2. MPC and design is a registered trademark of Learning Curve Brands, Inc. used under license to Round 2, LLC. ©2009 Learning Curve Brands, Inc. All rights reserved. ©2009 Round 2, LLC, South Bend, IN 46628 USA. Product and packaging designed in the USA. Made in China. All rights reserved. Before you begin to assemble your model kit, study the instructions carefully. This will help you to familiarize yourself with the part loca- tions as you proceed. Prior to cementing parts together, be sure to "TEST FIT" them in order to assure proper alignment and also to check for excess "FLASH" that may occur along parting lines. Use a sharp hobby knife or file to remove flash if necessary. If you wish to paint your model, various sub- assemblies and components should be painted before any parts are attached. During assem- bly, you may note that the recommended color is stated after the part name. This model kit is molded from the finest high- impact styrene plastic. Use only paints and cements which are specifically formulated for styrene. Read all labels and warnings carefully. Because the cement will only adhere to bare plastic it is necessary to remove any paint or chrome plating from the area to which the cement is to be applied. Use a sharp hobby knife to remove parts from the trees. Some parts may appear to have an extra "tab" on them; these should be removed. Tweezers are handy for holding very small parts during assembly or painting. We recommend the use of liquid polystyrene cement. Apply with a fine brush or toothpick. Use cement spar- ingly or a sloppy job will re- sult. For the best possible finish, your kit should be painted, even if it is molded in color. Paint should be applied evenly, in several thin coats rather than one heavy coat. The first coat should not completely cover the surface. Each layer should be allowed to thoroughly dry before the next coat is applied. Also, each coat should be "wet sanded" using No.1200 wet or dry sandpaper which is slightly damp; except for the final coat. Be careful not to remove any detail while sanding. It is important to keep your hands clean when you are working with your model and always wash the parts before painting.This will remove any mold release agent that may have been used during manufacture, body oil from your hands, sanding residue, and dust, which is naturally attracted to plastic by static electricity. Use a mild solution of dishwashing detergent and water. Use a tack rag to dry the parts, DO NOT use paper towels or tissues,since they will leave lint on the part. Parting lines and glue joints should be sanded or filed prior to painting and because paint has a tendency to draw away from sharp edges all sharp comers should be filed. Use filler putty designed for plastic to fill small gaps that may occur between parts and to blend contours.This should be done only after the first or "primer1* coat of paint is applied. When painting a two-tone body, the lightest color should be painted first. Use frosted or "magic" tape to mask off the area you do not want painted. After the second color is dry to the touch, the tape can be removed. Use a very fine brush to touch up edges if necessary. If decals are to be added, do so before adding any gloss coat. A gloss coat will help even out the edges between the two colors as well as set the decals. M709-200

Upload: others

Post on 25-Mar-2020

3 views

Category:

Documents


0 download

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: MPC709 1969 Daytona IS Outer FINAL - Model Cars...Front suspension Torsion bars Rear suspension Asymmetrical leaf springs Steering system Recirculating ball gear Brakes - Drum Heavy-duty

6 - BODYSUB-ASSEMBLY A

7 - BODYSUB-ASSEMBLY B

8 - HOODCUSTOM/COMPETITION

9 - BODYFINAL ASSEMBLY

10 - DECAL APPLICATIONSee back of the decal sheet for application instructions.

PAINT BODY BEFORE ASSEMBLY.SOME FACTORY COLORS INCLUDE:

Burnt Orange, White, Black, Yellow, Beige, Lime Green,Bright Red, Bright Blue Metallic, Light Blue Metallic

62WING UPRIGHTS

62HORIZONTAL WING

60FENDER SCOOPS

WINDSHIELDCLEAR

300

301REAR WINDOW

CLEAR

TAILLIGHTSCLEAR RED

(Paint Outer Trim Silver)

101REAR BUMPER

PLATED

LICENSE PLATEDECAL - No. 5 or 6

73HOOD

66CSCOOP TOP

66BSCOOP CENTER

66ASCOOP BASE

58FENDER FILLER(57 - Other Side)

CHASSIS ASSEMBLY

Paint Spoiler to Match Decal

REAR BODYDECAL - No. 2,3 or 6

HEMI® BADGEDECAL - No. 7

74FRONT ENDNOSE CAP

111DUAL COILS

PLATED

11FIREWALL

(Paint Exterior Body Color)

NOTE: Body putty may be usedto blend nose to body.

REMOVE SHADED AREAUse With or Without Hoop Scoop

HOOD BODY ASSEMBLY

125LICENSE PLATE BRACKET

PLATED(Remove Engraving To Use Decal)

102GAS CAP

BODY

DODGE CHARGER DAYTONADimensionsWidth Track, front 59.7 Track, rear 59.2 Maximum overall width 76.6Length Wheelbase 117 Maximum overall length 226.5Height Overall height 53.0

Engine Type & no. of cyls. 426 cid V-8 Hemi Bore and stroke 4.25 x 3.75 Carburetor One 4-bbl. Compression ratio 10.25:1 Exhaust system Dual Crankcase 4 qts. - 5qts. w/oil filter Coolant 17 qts. Horsepower @ rpm 425 @ 5000 Torque (lbs.-ft.) @ rpm 490 @ 4000 Fuel recommended Premium

Chassis/Suspension Body/Frame type Unitized Front suspension Torsion bars Rear suspension Asymmetrical leaf springs Steering system Recirculating ball gearBrakes - Drum Heavy-duty brakes, standard (automatic adjusting)Front 11.0 x 3.0Rear 11.0 x 2.5

It was during the late '60s that the NASCAR aerodynamic wars were heating up. Chrysler, long a winner on the big ovals, was getting beat by Ford with its Boss 429 engine in the sleek Torino. Chrysler countered with the Charger 500 which had a flush grille and a "fastback" rear window in place of the standard "tunneled" rear glass. Ford however, had an ace up its sleeve in the form of the Talladega which had a droop nose and a smaller flush grille. Ford continued to dominate. It was back to the drawing board (and wind tunnel) for Chrysler. A sharp-edged shovel nose was found to cut the air cleanly and a rear wing kept the back end down. Chrysler decided to get radical with the rear wing and placed it high above the car (even though a low wing worked just as well). This accomplished two things; one, the trunk could be raised without hitting the wing and two, it made the competition wonder just what Dodge knew that they didn’t! They soon found out. The Dodge Daytona of Richard Brickhouse won at Talladega and sent shockwaves through NASCAR-land and of course, Ford. To qualify as a "stock" car, NASCAR rules stipulate that at least 500 cars must be produced for sale to the general public. Dodge produced the required number and had them on sale in their showrooms on September 1st, 1969. 503 lucky people were able to purchase these winged wonders, many of which still exist today. There were only two engine options, the 375 horse 440 "wedge" or the the 425 horsepower 426 Hemi. Quite a choice! The stock Daytona came with those mysterious reverse scoops on top of the front fenders. While not really necessary for the street Daytona, the race car version needed them for tire clearance as the slick nose and wing caused enough down-force at speed to cause the tires to rub the inside of the stock fenders. The reverse scoops allowed a hole in the fender for tire clearance. Now a coveted collectors item, the radical winged Dodge Daytona is the ultimate in late sixties muscle cars. Enjoy your 1/25 scale version of this very special car.

IMPORTANTHOBBY KNIFE

TWEEZERS

CEMENT

BUILDING TIPS FOR THE ADVANCED MODELER

1/25 SCALE MODEL

Dodge and HEMI® are trademarks of Chrysler LLC. Dodge Daytona and its trade dress are used under license by Round 2, LLC. © Chrysler LLC 2009. Goodyear (and wing foot design) are trademarks of Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company, Akron, Ohio USA used under license by Round 2. MPC and design is a registered trademark of Learning Curve Brands, Inc. used under license to Round 2, LLC. ©2009 Learning Curve Brands, Inc. All rights reserved. ©2009 Round 2, LLC, South Bend, IN 46628 USA. Product and packaging designed in the USA. Made in China. All rights reserved.

Before you begin to assemble your model kit, study the instructions carefully. This will help you to familiarize yourself with the part loca-tions as you proceed. Prior to cementing parts together, be sure to "TEST FIT" them in order to assure proper alignment and also to check for excess "FLASH" that may occur along parting lines. Use a sharp hobby knife or file to remove flash if necessary.

If you wish to paint your model, various sub- assemblies and components should be painted before any parts are attached. During assem-bly, you may note that the recommended color is stated after the part name.

This model kit is molded from the finest high-impact styrene plastic. Use only paints and cements which are specifically formulated for styrene. Read all labels and warnings carefully. Because the cement will only adhere to bare plastic it is necessary to remove any paint or chrome plating from the area to which the cement is to be applied.

Use a sharp hobby knife to remove parts from the trees.Some parts may appear to have an extra "tab" on them; these should be removed.

Tweezers are handy for holding very small parts during assembly or painting.

We recommend the use of l iquid polystyrene cement. Apply with a f ine brush or toothpick. Use cement spar-ingly or a sloppy job wil l re-sult.

For the best possible finish, your kit should be painted, even if it is molded in color. Paint should be applied evenly, in several thin coats rather than one heavy coat. The first coat should not completely cover the surface. Each layer should be allowed to thoroughly dry before the next coat is applied. Also, each coat should be "wet sanded" using No.1200 wet or dry sandpaper which is slightly damp; except for the final coat. Be careful not to remove any detail while sanding. It is important to keep your hands clean when you are working with your model and always wash the parts before painting.This will remove any mold release agent that may have been used during manufacture, body oil from your hands, sanding residue, and dust, which is naturally attracted to plastic by static electricity. Use a mild solution of dishwashing detergent and water. Use a tack rag to dry the parts, DO NOT use paper towels or tissues,since they will leave lint on the part.

Parting lines and glue joints should be sanded or filed prior to painting and because paint has a tendency to draw away from sharp edges all sharp comers should be filed. Use filler putty designed for plastic to fill small gaps that may occur between parts and to blend contours.This should be done only after the first or "primer1* coat of paint is applied. When painting a two-tone body, the lightest color should be painted first. Use frosted or "magic" tape to mask off the area you do not want painted. After the second color is dry to the touch, the tape can be removed. Use a very fine brush to touch up edges if necessary. If decals are to be added, do so before adding any gloss coat. A gloss coat will help even out the edges between the two colors as well as set the decals.

M709-200

Page 2: MPC709 1969 Daytona IS Outer FINAL - Model Cars...Front suspension Torsion bars Rear suspension Asymmetrical leaf springs Steering system Recirculating ball gear Brakes - Drum Heavy-duty

Paint all engine parts HEMI® Orange except as noted.

Paint all engine parts HEMI® Orange except as noted.

AIR CLEANERDECAL - No. 1

45AIR CLEANER

109750 CFM CARBURETOR

PLATED

130750 DOUBLE PUMPER

CARBURETORSPLATED(2 pcs.)

129VELOCITY STACKS

PLATED(2 pcs.)

129VELOCITY STACKS

PLATED(2 pcs.)

128REAR BLOWER PLATE

PLATED 70CARBURATOR PLATE

(Paint Silver) 126GMC 6-71 BLOWER BODY

PLATED(2 pcs.)

127FRONT BLOWER PLATE

PLATED

67INTAKE MANIFOLD

(Paint Silver)

107“HEMI®”

VALVE COVERPLATED

(Both Sides)

107“HEMI®”

VALVE COVERPLATED

(Both Sides)

107“HEMI®”

VALVE COVERPLATED

(Both Sides)

17“HEMI®”CYLINDER

HEAD(Both Sides)

17“HEMI®”CYLINDER

HEAD(Both Sides)

17“HEMI®”CYLINDER

HEAD(Both Sides)

24INTAKE MANIFOLD

25INTAKE MANIFOLD

16ENGINE BLOCK

(Right/Left)

16ENGINE BLOCK

(Right/Left)

16ENGINE BLOCK

(Right/Left)

5STEERING WHEEL

2INTERIOR

Paint the Interior to complement or contrast the Exterior as desired.

3DASHBOARD

2 - INTERIOR

1C - ENGINECOMPETITION

1B - ENGINECUSTOM

1A - ENGINESTOCK

3A - TIRESFRONTASSEMBLE TWO SETS

3B - TIRESREARASSEMBLE TWO SETS

4 - CHASSISSUB-ASSEMBLY

5 - CHASSISFINAL ASSEMBLY

OR

117INSTRUMENT PANEL

PLATEDCOMPETITION

34CONSOLE

9ARM REST

63BUCKET SEATS

118SHIFTERPLATEDSTOCK

119SHIFTERPLATED

COMPETITION/CUSTOM112

TACHOMETERPLATED

COMPETITION/CUSTOM

23DISTRIBUTOR

(Paint Tan)

23DISTRIBUTOR

(Paint Tan)

19TIMING CHAIN

COVER

19TIMING CHAIN

COVER

69TIMING CHAIN

COVER

68BLOWER BELT

(Paint Belts Flat Black)(Paint Pulleys Silver)

20BELTS/PULLEYS

(Paint Belts Flat dBlack)(Paint Pulleys Orange)

124WHEEL COVER

PLATED

124WHEEL COVER

PLATED

8EXHAUST/DIFFERENTIAL

(Paint Black; Paint Muffler & Tailpipe Silver)

6CHASSIS

(Paint Black)

13BATTERY

(Paint Black)

12RADIATOR

(Paint Black)

ASSEMBLED TIRES

ASSEMBLED ENGINE

ASSEMBLED CHASSIS

METAL AXLE

...to Transmission in next assembly

TIRE

TIRE

29AXLE PIN BACKDO NOT CEMENT

14WHEEL BACK(Paint Black)

15WHEEL BACK(Paint Black)

20BELTS/PULLEYS

(Paint Belts Flat Black)(Paint Pulleys Orange)

28FAN

(Paint Black)

28FAN

(Paint Black)

108ALTERNATOR

PLATED

18OIL PAN

21EXHAUST HEADER

(Both Sides)(Paint Silver)

108ALTERNATOR

PLATED

18OIL PAN

21EXHAUST HEADER

(Both Sides)(Paint Silver)

18OIL PAN

21EXHAUST HEADER

(Both Sides)(Paint Silver)

109750 CFM CARBURETOR

PLATED

71DISTRIBUTOR

(Paint Tan)