mrd service gu
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Table of Contents
Description PageIntroduction 3Disassembly/Assembly Instructions Casting systems 4- 9
Hex Thru Axle Installation9
Noble Air system Service Instructions10 - 15
MRD Damping system Service Instructions16 - 26
Technical Data 27
Service Kit Matrix 28
Fork Torque Specs 29
Trouble shooting Tips 30 - 31
Contact Information
Hayes Bicycle GroupTech Support6750 W. Florist Ave.Milwaukee, WI. 53218
Toll Free: (888) 686-3472Direct: (414) 462-0021FAX: (414) 462-0214E-mail: [email protected] site: www.manitoumtb.com
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INTRODUCTION
This manual is intended to guide the user through basic service of Manitou front forks.Service is supported by the identification of common parts and assemblies that havebeen assembled into Service Kits. The purpose of this manual will be to describeconditions that may drive the need for service and to provide installation instructions forthe kits.
Due to the time-consuming nature of suspension fork service, at this time our primaryfocus is to offer service kits that minimize the amount of downtime and labor involved.
Important information is highlighted in this manual by the following notations:
WARNINGFailure to follow WARNING instructions could result in severe injury or death to theperson inspecting or repairing the suspension fork or the user.
CAUTIONA CAUTION a caution indicates special precautions that must be taken to avoid damage tothe product.
NOTEA NOTE provides key information to make procedures easier or clearer
GENERAL WARNING: Suspension forks by design can contain preloaded springs,gases and fluids under extreme pressure and warnings contained in this manualmust be observed to reduce the possibility of injury or possible death. Followingthese instructions can help you reduce the risk of being injured. Any questions inregards to the information in this manual should be directed to HBG Tech Supportat (888) 686-3472.
WARNING: Suspension forks uses preloaded spring(s) to provide compression springresistance. This system must be relieved of preload prior to servicing. Failure to relieveair pressure could result in injury or possible death.
CAUTION: Suspension forks use precision machined aluminum and other soft alloy components.Using correct tools for assembly is essential to prevent damage.
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MRD Casting ServiceIncludes Semi Bath change, seal change, and casting change
Tool List: 12mm wrench, 1.5mm Allen, 7mm Allen, Park Green Pin Spanner (or similar), Shock Pump
1. Using a shock pump slowly release the air pressure from the Noble Air
System through the valve on the bottom of the left fork leg. Please Note: When
the air is removed too rapidly, it will cause air to be trapped in the negative air
chamber causing the fork to "suck down". If this happens, it is easily fixed bypumping up the air spring back up above the pressure that you originally had in
the system and then release the air slowly
2. Remove the 12mm nut from the compression rod on the bottom of the left
leg.
3. Remove the blue rebound knob on the bottom of the right leg with a 1.5mm
Allen wrench. Be cautious of the detent balls and springs under the knob as the
are very small and easily lost.
WARNING:This fork uses compressed air to provide spring resistance and must be
relieved of pressure prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air pressure could result in
injury or possible death.
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4. Remove the detent balls and springs from the Detent Housing.
5. Remove the Detent housing by unscrewing it counter-clockwise using a gree
Park Tool pin spanner (or similar tool) inserted into the holes that the springs
and detent balls sit in.
6. Using a 7mm Allen wrench, usnscrew the rebound assembly from the casting
by turning it clockwise.
7. Pull the casting off the Crown Steerer assembly. It is best to do this over somtype of drip pan to catch the semi-bath that is in the outer legs. Throughly clean
out the casting to get any contamiated oil and dirt out. If you are changing the
fork seals, proceed to the next step, if not go to step 13.
8. To remove the dust seals, first remove the seal tension springs (otherwise
they will get damaged), then take a large flat-bladed screwdriver and insert the
tip between the bottom of the seal and the top of the foam wiper.
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9. Push down on the screwdriver. This will pop the seal out of the casting. Next
remove the foam oil ring.
10. Oil the foam rings (new or after cleaning the old rings) with a small amount o
semi-bath oil and place them in the top of the casting above the Upper Bushing
11. Install the dust seal into the leg, use a large socket or piece of round tubing
that is large enough in diameter to press on the outside shoulder of the seal
rather than putting pressure on the sealing lip and spring so that they are not
damaged. Repeat steps 9-12 for the opposite fork leg.
12. Extend the compression rod and the rebound shaft fully, check to see if the
face seal on the rebound shaft and the o-ring on the compression rod are
damaged. If so, replace them, otherwise it is OK to reuse them.
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13. Slide the casting onto the stanchions being careful not to pinch the lip on the
dust seals. Once the seals are on the legs slide the legs down about 3/4 of the
way down.
14. Hold the fork at approximately a 45 degree angle with the drop outs up.
Using a squeeze bottle or syringe put 16cc(16ml) of Semi Bath (5w40 synthetic
oil) into each leg of the fork. Be careful that the oil is not poured into the end of
the rebound shaft or the air valve on the end of the compression rod. After the
Semi Bath is in each leg, slide the casting down the rest of the way until the
casting makes contact with the rebound shaft.
15. Using the 7mm Allen, turn the rebound shaft counter-clockwise to screw the
rebound assembly into the casting. Tighten it to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).
Note:You may need to put a slight amount side pressure on the Allen wrench
and pull out on the rebound shaft to get it to start in the casting. Warning: Do no
overtighten the rebound damper assembly into the casting, it will cause damage
to the sealing o-ring on the end of the shaft and cause the semi bath oil to leak
out of the casting. It is recommended to use a torque wrench when tightening
this assembly.
16. Screw the detent assembly clockwise on to the portion of thread of the
rebound shaft that protrudes out of the casting. Using a tool like the Park Tool
Pin Spanner and the 7mm Allen wrench, tighten the Detent Housing in a
clockwise direction while holding the rebound shaft stationary with the Allen
wrench. Tighten the Detent Housing to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).
Pinched
Correct
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17. Insert a small spring into each of the holes on the detent assembly, apply a
small amount of grease on top of the spring to hold the detent balls, and then
place a detent ball on top of each spring.
18. Place the blue rebound knob on the needle in the rebound assembly and
attach it with the machine screw using the 1.5mm wrench. Tighten it to 5-8inlbs
(.6-.9N-m) and be sure to use blue LocTite on the threads.
19. Install the 12mm nut that secures the compression rod in the left fork leg.
Tighten it in a clockwise direction to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m). If there is not a
washer located under the 12mm nut, place a thin washer onto the exposed
threaded shaft protruding through the casting before you reinstall the nut.
20. Pressurize the main spring by turning your bike upside down, install the air
pump on to the schrader valve and then inflate to the pressure that you normally
use. Now, go have a great ride!
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32mm Leg Thru Axle and Quick Release Thru Axle Instructions
Standard Hex Thru Axle
Removal Instructions
Removal of Hex Thru Axle1. Loosen the two 3mm clamp-fixing bolts on the right fork leg. (See Fig. 1)
2. Remove the Thru Axle nut from the right side of the Thru Axle.
3. Loosen the two 3mm clamp-fixing bolts on the left fork leg.
4. Push the Hex Thru Axle out of the dropouts from left to right and
completely remove it and the front wheel from the fork.
Assembly Instructions
Fig. 1 Installation of Hex Thru Axle
1. Insert the Clamp Nuts (See Fig.3 A) into the small hexagonalhole in each of the drop outs.
2. Start two clamp fixing bolts (See Fig.3 C) in each dropout.Do not tighten these bolts down at this time
3. Hold the wheel between the dropouts of the fork.4. Insert Hex Thru Axle small hex first into the outside of the left
drop out (as you are facing the fork) and push it through the hub
of the wheel, and into the right drop out.
5. Thread the Thru Axle nut into the end of the axle that is in theright drop out. Thread the Thru Axle nut all of the way in.
Fig. 2 Tighten the 3mm clamp fixing bolts to the specified torque value6. Push down on the fork a few times to allow the hub to center.
Tighten the 3mm clamp fixing bolts to the specified torque value
as called out in Technical Specification Chart at the end of this
manual. (See Fig 1)
7. Finish the installation by tightening axle nut to specified torque(See Fig 2)
Fig. 3
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MRD Noble Air System ServiceIncludes complete disassembly and service of the air spring system
Tool List: 12mm wrench, 15mm wrench, 20mm socket, 1.5mm Allen, 7mm Allen, Park Green Pin Spanner (or
1. Using a shock pump slowly release the air pressure from the Noble Air
System through the valve on the bottom of the left fork leg. Please Note: When
the air is removed too rapidly, it will cause air to be trapped in the negative air
chamber causing the fork to "suck down". If this happens, it is easily fixed by
pumping up the air spring back up above the pressure that you originally had inthe system and then release the air slowly
2. Remove the 12mm nut from the compression rod on the bottom of the left leg
3. Remove the blue rebound knob on the bottom of the right leg with a 1.5mm
Allen wrench. Be cautious of the detent balls and springs under the knob as the
are very small and easily lost.
WARNING:This fork uses compressed air to provide spring resistance and must berelieved of pressure prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air pressure could result in
injury or possible death.
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4. Remove the Detent balls and springs from the Detent Housing.
5. Remove the Detent housing by unscrewing it counter-clockwise using a gree
Park Tool pin spanner (or similar tool) inserted into the holes that the springs
and detent balls sit in.
6. Using a 7mm Allen wrench, usnscrew the rebound assembly from the casting
by turning it clockwise.
7. Pull the casting off the crown steerer assembly. It is best to do this over sometype of drip pan to catch the semi-bath that is in the casting. Thoroughly clean
out the casting to get any contaminated oil and dirt out. If the fork seals need to
be serviced, please reference the casting service instructions for details. If you
are planning to service the damping system please reference those instructions
8. Use a 15mm wrench to remove the compression rod from the bottom of the
left fork leg. There may be oil in the area between the endcap and the piston
(only a few cc/ml) so use caution when pulling the assembly from the fork leg.
Also it is normal to have a slight amount of negative pressure when removing th
assembly.
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9. Inspect the quad seal (might be an o-ring) and piston glide ring for wear or
damage and replace if any is found. Pay special attention to the area of the qua
seal that was moving over the negative spring charge slot, as this is where you
might see possible damage. It will appear like the image as two small areas thaare approximately 1mm wide gouged out of the sealing lips of the quad ring.
10. Using a 20mm socket, remove the top cap and air spring compensator by
turning it counter-clockwise.
11. The air spring compensator is a press fit on the end of the intermediate air
piston, a sharp pull will separate the two pieces.
12. Even though the air spring compensator is not actively compressed by the
compression rod and piston, over time this material will degrade and lose its
effective spring rate from being compressed by the air pressure in the fork and
will need to be replaced periodically. The 80mm R7 will use the 60mm long air
spring compensator, all other MRD forks, R7100mm and both Minute 100 and
130mm, will use the shorter 40mm air spring compensator.
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13. Invert the fork, lightly grease the glide ring and quad seal on the air piston
and also the o-ring on the end cap. Gently insert the piston into the left fork leg,
will ease the installation past the threads in the inner leg if you turn the assemb
like screwing in a screw. When screwing the end cap into the leg watch to be
sure that the o-ring does not catch on the edge of the leg. Torque the end cap t80inlbs (9.0N-m).
14. Turn the fork upright, and pour about 3-5cc of air piston oil (20w50 synthetic
motor oil) on the top of the air piston, this will be just enough to cover the dish in
the piston.
15. Attach the air spring compensator to the top cap assembly by pushing it on
to the post on the bottom of the top cap air piston. Lightly grease the o-rings on
the air piston and the top cap. Gently insert the piston into the left fork leg, it wil
ease the installation past the threads in the inner leg if you turn the assembly lik
screwing in a screw. Once the air piston is inside the leg you will meet some
resistance trying to insert the assembly further as it will build up some air
pressure in the system, this is normal. When screwing the endcap into the leg
watch to be sure that the o-ring does not catch on the edge of the leg. Torque
the top cap to 80inlbs.
16. Extend the compression rod and the rebound shaft fully, check to see if the
face seal on the rebound shaft and the o-ring on the compression rod aredamaged if so replace them, otherwise it is OK to reuse them.
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17. Slide the casting onto the stanchions being careful not to pinch the lip on the
dust seals. Once the seals are on the legs slide the legs down about 3/4 of theway down.
18. Hold the fork at approximately a 45 degree angle with the drop outs up.
Using a squeeze bottle or syringe put 16cc(16ml) of semibath (5w40 synthetic
oil) into each leg of the fork. Be careful that the oil is not poured into the end of
the rebound shaft or the air valve on the end of the compression rod. After thesemibath is in each leg, slide the casting down the rest of the way until the
casting makes contact with the rebound shaft.
19. Using the 7mm Allen, turn the rebound shaft counter-clockwise to screw the
rebound assembly into the casting. Tighten it to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).
Note:You may need to put a slight amount side pressure on the Allen wrench
and pull out on the rebound shaft to get it to start in the casting. Warning: Do no
overtighten the rebound damper assembly into the casting, it will cause damage
to the sealing o-ring on the end of the shaft and cause the semi bath oil to leakout of the casting. It is recommended to use a torque wrench when tightening
this assembly.
20. Screw the detent assembly clockwise on to the portion of thread of the
rebound shaft that protrudes out of the casting. Using a tool like the Park Tool
Pin Spanner and the 7mm Allen wrench, tighten the Detent Housing in a
clockwise direction while holding the rebound shaft stationary with the Allen
wrench. Tighten the Detent Housing to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).
Pinched
Correct
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21. Insert a small spring into each of the holes on the detent assembly, apply a
small amount of grease on top of the springs to hold the detent balls, and then
place a detent ball on top of each spring.
22. Place the blue rebound knob on the needle in the rebound assembly and
attach it with the machine screw using the 1.5mm wrench. Tighten it to 5-8inlbs
(.6-.9N-m) and be sure to use blue LocTite on the threads.
23. Install the 12mm nut that secures the compression rod in the left fork leg.If
there is not a washer located under the 12mm nut, place a thin washer onto the
exposed threaded shaft protruding through the casting before you reinstall the
nut.Tighten it in a clockwise direction to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).
24. Pressurize the main spring by turning your bike upside down, install the air
pump on to the schrader valve and then inflate to the pressure that you normally
use. Now, go have a great ride!
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MRD Damping Systems ServiceIncludes complete disassembly and service of the Various Damping Systems used in theTool List: 12mm wrench, 15mm wrench, 20mm socket, 24mm socket, 1.5mm Allen, 7mm Allen, Park Green Pin
1. Using a shock pump slowly release the air pressure from the Noble Air
System through the valve on the bottom of the left fork leg. Please Note: When
the air is removed too rapidly, it will cause air to be trapped in the negative air
chamber causing the fork to "suck down". If this happens, it is easily fixed by
pumping up the air spring back up above the pressure that you originally had in
the system and then release the air slowly
2. Remove the 12mm nut from the compression rod on the bottom of the left leg
3. Remove the blue rebound knob on the bottom of the right leg with a 1.5mm
Allen wrench. Be cautious of the detent balls and springs under the knob as the
are very small and easily lost.
WARNING:This fork uses compressed air to provide spring resistance and must berelieved of pressure prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air pressure could result in
injury or possible death.
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4. Remove the detent balls and springs from the Detent Housing.
5. Remove the Detent housing by unscrewing it counter-clockwise using a gree
Park Tool pin spanner (or similar tool) inserted into the holes that the springs
and detent balls sit in.
6. Using a 7mm Allen wrench, unscrew the rebound assembly from the casting
by turning it clockwise.
7. Pull the casting off the crown steerer assembly. It is best to do this over sometype of drip pan to catch the semi-bath that is in the outer legs. Throughly clean
out the casting to get any contamiated oil and dirt out. If the fork seals need to
be serviced, please reference the casting service instructions for details. If you
are planning to service the damping system please reference those instructions
For TPC forks proceed to the next step, for Absolute forks: proceed to step 11
and for RCT Lock-out forks: proceed to step 14
8. TPC Forks: Turn the TPC adjustment knob on top of the right side of the forkcounter-clockwise until it reaches the travel limit.Using an 1.5mm allen wrench
remove the screw in the center of the knob, turn the screw counter-clockwise to
remove. Be cautious of the detent balls and springs under the knob as they are
very small and easily lost.
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9. Remove the detent balls and springs from the top of the assembly.
10. Using a 20mm socket remove the TPC compression assembly from the fork
leg. As you pull the piston out of the damper body be cautious not to spill the oil
Once the TPC assembly is removed, pour the oil in the damper body out and
dispose of it properly. Stroke the rebound shaft once or twice while doing this to
ensure that all of the oil is removed. Continue to step 17 Warning: If thecartridge tube becomes dislodged as you remove the compression damper
assembly, do not worry. The oil in that tube will drain into the inner leg and can
be poured out of that leg. The press fit or the "squeeze" of the o-ring between
the end cap and the tube may be too loose. This will require replacing the o-ring
in the end cap.
11. Absolute forks: Turn the adjuster counter-clockwise until the damper is the
fully open position. Using a 2mm allen remove the screw holding the knob on,turn the screw counter-clockwise to remove. Be cautious of the detent balls and
springs under the knob as they are very small and easily lost.
12. Remove the detent balls and springs from the top of the assembly.
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13. Using a 24mm socket, remove the Absolute compression assembly from the
fork leg. As you pull the piston out of the damper body be cautious not to spill th
oil. Once the Absolute assembly is removed, pour the oil in the damper body ou
and dispose of it properly. Stroke the rebound shaft once or twice while doing
this to ensure that all of the oil is removed. Continue to step 17 Warning: If
the cartridge tube becomes dislodged as you remove the CompressionDamper assembly, do not worry. The oil in that tube will drain into the
inner leg and can be poured out of that leg. The press fit or the "squeeze"
of the o-ring between the end cap and the tube may be too loose. This will
require replacing the o-ring in the end cap.
14. RCT Lock- out Forks: Using a 2mm allen remove the screw holding the
cable barrel on, turn the screw counter-clockwise to remove. Be cautious of the
return spring and cover on the bottom of the knob.
15. Next remove the cable stop clamp by loosening the clamp bolt using a 2mm
Allen wrench, then just lift the clamp off of the Lock-out assembly.
16. Using a 24mm socket, remove the Lock-out compression assembly from the
fork leg. As you pull the piston out of the damper body be cautious not to spill th
oil. Once the Absolute assembly is removed, pour the oil in the damper body ou
and dispose of it properly. Stroke the rebound shaft once or twice while doing
this to ensure that all of the oil is removed.
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17. Invert the fork, Using a 15mm wrench remove the rebound end cap by
turning it counter-clockwise. This will remove the rebound assembly and thecartridge body.
18. Separate the cartridge body from the rebound assembly by twisting the twopieces in opposite directions while pulling them apart.
19. Inspect all o-rings, seals and piston glide rings, replace any that show signs
of wear or damage. Be sure to check the o-ring on the inside of the rebound en
cap that seals on the outside surface of the cartridge body. It is adviceable to
only replace this o-ring if it is damaged as it extremely difficult to fully seat thereplacement and install the cartridge. If you are replacing the o-ring, lube it with
semi-bath oil rather than grease as it will seat into the groove in the end cap
better.
20. Lube the oring on the inside of the end cap, the outside of the cartridge tube
and the piston glide ring on the rebound assembly, using a small amout of shocfluid. These areas are pointed out in the photo to the right.
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21. Slide the rebound assembly into the cartridge tube. To insert the cartridge
tube into the endcap, place the opposite end of the cartridge tube against the
edge of the workbench, place on hand on the cartridge tube and one hand on
the end cap. While leaning your weight into the assemblies, twist the end cap in
one direction and the tube in the opposite as if screwing the pieces together.
There should be a sharp snap or click as the tube slides past the o-ring and
seats into the end cap. if you don't hear the end cap seat there is a very good
chance that the cartridge tube has cut the o-ring.
22. Screw the rebound assembly and cartridge tube assembly into the bottom o
the right leg. Torque the end cap to 80inlbs (9.0N-m) using a 15mm wrench. Be
care not to dislodge the cartridge tube from the end cap as it needs to remain
fully seated to seal properly.
23. Turn the fork upright. Fill the cartridge approximately 1/2 to 2/3 full of 5wt
shock oil. Be careful not to spill fluid in the area between the inner leg and the
cartridge. Place a shop towel over the top of the leg. Slowly stroke the rebound
shaft about 1/2 way through its travel, this will get air out from under the reboun
piston. Fully extend the rebound shaft.
24. For all MRDForks: Fill the cartridge with shock fluid until the distance from
the top of the inner leg to the top surface of the oil in the cartridge is 120mm (yo
are measuring the distance between the 2 arrows). It is easiest to set this level
using a syringe with a piece of tubing on the end to draw out the proper amount
of fluid. For TPC forks proceed to the next step; Absolute forks continue to step
28; RCT forks resume at Step 29
25. For TPC Forks: lightly lubricate, with shock fluid, the orings on the outside
and inside of the top cap. Carefully insert the TPC compression assembly to
make sure that the cartridge body is not knocked off center. Using a 20mm
socket, torque the top cap to 80inlbs (9.0N-m).
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26. Insert the 2 detent springs and balls into the holes on the top cap.
27. Using a 1.5mm Allen wrench screw the TPC knob on to the compression
assembly. Be careful when installing the knob so that you don't dislodge the
detent balls. Proceed to step 34 to finish the service.
28. For Absolute forks: Lube the o-rings on the inside and the outside of the
top cap with shock fluid. Also be sure to lube the o-ring on the piston. Carefullyinsert the Absolute compression assembly to make sure that the cartridge body
is not knocked off center. Using a 24mm socket, torque the top cap to 80inlbs
(9.0N-m).
29. Insert the 2 detent springs and balls into two holes opposite to each other othe top cap.
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28. Using a 2mm Allen wrench screw the knob and Absolute detent plate on to
the compression assembly. Be careful when installing the knob so that you dondislodge the detent balls. Proceed to step 34 to finish the service.
29. For RCT Forks: lightly lubricate, with shock fluid, the orings on the outside
and inside of the top cap. Carefully insert the TPC compression assembly tomake sure that the cartridge body is not knocked off center. Using a 24mm
socket, torque the top cap to 80inlbs (9.0N-m).
30. Install clamp w/ cable adjuster pointing to the front of the fork.
31. Turn cable spool to close the lockout, making sure that it functions properly
Clock the spool so the cable anchor is close but doesnt interfere with the cable
adjuster on the clamp.
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32. Turn spool counter clockwise about 180 degrees from the locked out
position. Remove Spool and install the return spring in the spool.
33. Install spool on lock-out in the position from the end of step 32. The return
spring goes in whichever of the holes in the top cap that it lines up best with.
Proceed to step 34 to finish the service.
34. Extend the compression rod and the rebound shaft fully, check to see if the
face seal on the rebound shaft and the o-ring on the compression rod are
damaged. If so replace them, otherwise it is OK to reuse them.
35. Slide the casting on to the stanchions being careful not to pinch the lip on th
dust seals. Once the seals are on the legs, slide the legs about 3/4 of the way
down.
36. Hold the fork at approximately a 45 degree angle with the drop outs up.
Using a squeeze bottle or syringe put 16cc (16ml) of Semi Bath (5w40 syntheticoil) into each leg of the fork. Be careful that the oil is not poured into the end of
the rebound shaft or the air valve on the end of the compression rod. After the
Semi Bath is in each leg, slide the casting down the rest of the way until the
casting makes contact with the rebound shaft.
Pinched
Correct
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37. Using the 7mm Allen, turn the rebound shaft counter-clockwise to screw the
rebound assembly into the casting. Tighten it to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).
Note:You may need to put a slight amount side pressure on the Allen wrench
and pull out on the rebound shaft to get it to start in the casting. Warning: Do no
overtighten the rebound damper assembly into the casting, it will cause damage
to the sealing o-ring on the end of the shaft and cause the semi bath oil to leak
out of the casting. It is recommended to use a torque wrench when tightening
this assembly.
38. Screw the detent assembly clockwise on to the portion of thread of the
rebound shaft that protrudes out of the casting. Using a tool like the Park Tool
Pin Spanner and the 7mm Allen wrench, tighten the Detent Housing in a
clockwise direction while holding the rebound shaft stationary with the Allen
wrench. Tighten the Detent Housing to 15-20inlbs (1.7-N-m).
39. Insert a small spring into each of the holes on the detent assembly, apply a
small amount of grease on top of the springs to hold the detent balls, and then
place a detent ball on top of each spring.
40. Place the blue rebound knob on the needle in the rebound assembly and
attach it with the machine screw using the 1.5mm wrench. Tighten it to 5-8inlbs
(.6-.9N-m)and be sure to use blue LocTite on the threads.
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41. Install the 12mm nut that secures the compression rod in the left fork leg. If
there is not a washer located under the 12mm nut, place a thin washer onto the
exposed threaded shaft protruding through the casting before you reinstall the
nut.Tighten it in a clockwise direction to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).
42. Pressurize the main spring by turning your bike upside down, install the air
pump on to the schrader valve and then inflate to the pressure that you normally
use. Now, go have a great ride!urize the main spring back to the air pressure
that you normally run and go have a great ride!
Additional note: It is possible to change the compression damping systems (Absolute/TPC) between theMRD Forks. There are different length cartridge tubes required for the Absolute subassembly versus the TPC
subassembly. So, in order to change from TPC to Absolute or vice versa, you also need the correct
corresponding cartridge tube.
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Technical Data
2008 Fork Set Up Criteria
Family Model Damping System Travel Oil LevelFactory Build
Specs
MM Inches MMSPV/IFP
PSI
AirSpring(PSI)
R7 MRD TPC 80 4.7 120 N/A 70
100 4.7 120 N/A 70
MRD Absolute 80 4.7 120 N/A 70
Minute MRD TPC 100 4.7 120 N/A 100
130 4.7 120 N/A 100
Absolute 100 4.7 120 N/A 100
130 4.7 120 N/A 100
ForkModel Seal Type
Seal Partnumber
Rebound
DamperEnd
Torque on Rebound
Damper to secure inCasting
08 R7 MRDOrange
Doughnut 065807AluminumMachined 15-25inlbs (1.69 - 2.82Nm)
08 MinuteMRD
Thin WhiteNylon 067110
AluminumMachined 15-25inlbs (1.69 - 2.82Nm)
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2008 Manitou Fork Service Kit MatrixName R7 Minute
Model R7 MRD Minute MRD
Code M-850 M-851
RG-
850
RG-
851Travel (mm) 80 100 100 130
Cartridge Damping Rebuild PartsCartridge Rebound Assy-TPC or Absolute A 83-3267 83-3283
Cartridge Rebound Assy-CID A
Cartridge TPC Assy A 83-3265 83-3281
Cartridge Absolute Assy A 83-3266 83-3282
Cartridge Body - TPC A83-
326883-
326983-
326983-
3284
Cartridge Body - Absolute A83-
327083-
327183-
327183-
3285
RCT Remote L/O Lever * A 83-3352 83-3352
RCT Remote L/O Cable * A 83-3353 83-3353
RCT Remote L/O Fork Clamp Spool/Spring * A 83-3354 83-3354
Air Cap C83-
327283-3343
83-3286
83-3287
Air Spring Compensator C 83-3273 83-3273
Crn/Str/Leg D
***Blk AL S/T(26") MRD83-3276
83-3277
83-3290
83-3291
Outer Leg Assy E
STD Merida Green 98-23568
STD Candy Red 83-3257
STD Grey (Primer) 83-3256
STD Gloss Black 98-23561
NB, STD DO Gloss Black 83-3258
NB, STD DO Carbon Clear Coated 98-23564NB, STD DO Grey Blue (Ocean Blue) 83-3292
NB,STD DO Merida Green 98-23569
NB, STD DO Candy Red 83-3260
NB, STD DO Grey (Primer) 83-3259
NB, Hex Axel Grey Blue (Ocean Blue) 83-3332
Travel Adjust/ H
Comp Rod/ H
8083-
3274
10083-
327583-3288
13083-
3289
Bushing Kit E 85-5321 85-5964
Knob Kit I 83-3279 83-3279
Dust Seal Kit K 83-2443 85-5293
O-Ring Kit K 83-3280 83-3293
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Position Fitting (Internal/
External) - Size Solution appliedFork Assembly Min Max Min Max
Brake Post Ext. - 8mm (2 sided) 92 115 80 100
Red Loctite
(impreg. threads)End Cap
(Spring & Damper) Ext. - 24mm Hex 92 115 80 100
Greased
(spring grease)
Top Caps (Spring &
Damper / Plastic
Ext. - 20mm Hex /
Ext. - 24mm Hex 52 63 45 55 NATop Caps (Spring &
Damper / MetalExt. - 20mm Hex /Ext. - 24mm Hex 69 92 60 80 NA
Drop out bolt
(Spring side)
Ext. - 11mm Hex /
Ext. - 12mm Hex 52 63 45 55 NADrop out fitting
(Damping side) Int. - 8mm Hex 15 29 13 25 NA
Rebound -adjuster knob to -needle Int. - 2mm Hex 5 7 4 6
Blue Loctite
(CartridgeDampers Only)
Triple Clamp
lower crown Int. - 4mm Hex 58 81 50 70 Blue LoctiteTriple Clampupper crown Int. - 4mm Hex 115 127 100 110 Blue Loctite
QRTA quick release
screws Int. - 4mm Hex 35 46 30 40 Blue Loctite
Std. thru Axle Clamp Screws Int. - 4mm Hex 35 46 30 40 Blue LoctiteStd. / QRTA
Thru Axle bolt Int. - 6mm Hex
Greased
(spring grease)
Sub Assembly
Air valve core Ext. (?)mm (2 sided) 3 6 3 5 NARebound Assy.
Piston Nut Ex. - 13mm Hex 14 17 12 15 Green LoctiteLO, Rem LO:
Top Cap to Shaft
Ext. - 24mm Hex to
Ext. 10mm (2 sided) 52 63 45 55 Red LoctiteLO:
Piston to Shaft
Int. 6mm Hex to
Ext. 10mm (2 sided) 46 58 40 50 Red LoctiteRem LO: Piston seat to Shaft
bottom Custom fittings 46 58 40 50 Red LoctiteRem LO: Plunger-
top to -bottom Custom fittings 6 12 5 10 Red LoctiteRem LO: Shaft -
upper to -lower Custom fittings 52 63 45 55 Red Loctite
Rem LO: End plugto Piston seat Custom fittings 6 12 5 10 Blue Loctite
Hand Tight
Fork Torque Specifications
Torque (inlbs)Torque (Kg/Cm)
CRITICAL!!!
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Trouble Shooting Tips
Symptom Cause Solution See Page #
Air LossSchrader Valveleaks
Tighten Valve core, replace bad partsas needed. 13 Sect.16
Air Cap O-ring leaksMake sure O-ring is seated properly,replace parts as needed. 13 Sect.15
Air Piston leaksCheck oil volume on top of piston,replace parts as needed. 13 - Sect.14
Air Top Cap leaksCheck O-ring, tighten cap to properTorque, and replace parts as needed. 13 Sect.15
Oil leaks from WiperSeals
Seal not seatedproperly
Remove Casting from Inner Legs,reinstall or replace seals 5 Sect.8
Nicks or scratcheson inner legs
Replace Crown/Steerer/Inner LegAssembly
Too much Semi Bathoil
Follow instructions for removal andinstallation of Outer Casting 4 Sect.9
Wear
Remove Casting from Inner Legs,
reinstall or replace seals 4 Sect.9Oil leaks from bottom
of CastingRebound dampershaft leaks Replace Rebound Damping assembly 20 Sect.17
Rebound dampershaft O-ringdamaged
Replace O-ring on threaded end ofRebound Damping assembly 24 Sect.34
Compression RodBolt leaks
Check O-ring on bolt to see if it isdamaged and then reinstall 26 Sect.41
Lack of Travel Tight BushingsResize bushings or replace with newones if damaged
Refer to2008 Fork
ServiceManual
Hydraulic lock out Replace Rebound Damping assembly See above
Semi Bath oil volumeFollow instructions for removal andinstallation of Outer Casting See Above
Damper oil volume Check oil level, Replace ReboundDamping assembly if needed See Above
Fork alignmentVisually inspect fork, call HBG TechSupport Customer Service
Fork Top outLoss of ReboundDamping Replace Rebound Damping assembly See AboveTop out springdamaged
Inspect and replace Top out spring ifneeded. 11 Sect.15
Damping oil volumenot correct
Check oil level, Replace ReboundDamping assembly if needed See Above
Fork Bottom out Too much SAGRefer to SAG Set up in Tuning sectionof Owners Manual
Table 3Pg.27
Bottom out Bumperdamaged
Inspect and replace Bottom out Bumperif needed 11 Sect.15
Damping oil volumenot correct
Check oil level, Replace ReboundDamping assembly if needed See above
Play in Fork Loose bushingsResize bushings or replace with newones if damaged See Above
Loose CompressionRod bolt Tighten bolt to specified torque
Loose Rebounddamping shaft Tighten Shaft to specified torque
Loose press fittolerances
Call HBG Tech Support CustomerService
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Trouble Shooting Tips (cont.)
Absolute DampingProblems Loss of function
Check oil level, Replace AbsoluteDamping assembly if needed 21 Sect.24
Noisy whenincreasing platform
Check oil Level, contact HBG TechSupport 21 Sect.24
RCT Lockout ProblemsVarious See Remote Lockout Section 19 - 24
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