1 2Need to KNow

Quick FactsLanguagesMalay, English, Chinese dialects, Tamil

TimeMalaysia Standard Time is 2½ hours ahead of IST.

CurrenCyMalaysian ringgit (RM). Malaysians may refer to ringgit as ‘dollars’.

mobiLe PhonesInternational roaming is expensive. Cheap prepaid SIM cards (RM8.50; passport required) are widely available.

inTerneT aCCessInternet cafes are common in tourist centres. Wi-fi access is widespread in hotels and cafes.

TourisT informaTionTourism Malaysia (+603 9235 4848/4900; www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my; 109 Jalan Ampang, 50450 Kuala Lumpur).

Need to Know First Time in Malaysia • Passport: Your passport should be valid for six months upon arrival in Malaysia and must have at least three blank pages.

• Visa: Indians require a visa to enter Malaysia. Visa applications are handled by VFS Global (www.vfsglobal.com/malaysia/india) and need to be submitted at any of their offices in India. For more information see p236

• flights: Malaysian Airlines, Air India, Jet Airways, Thai Airways and Singapore Airlines are amongst a host of carriers flying non-stop from India to Kuala Lumpur. Check for online deals: it’s possible to get return tickets under `30,000 if you book in advance.

heaLTh & safeTy• Take out health insurance.

• Pack medications in their original, clearly-labelled containers.

• Carry a signed and dated letter from your physician describing your medical conditions and medications, including their generic names.

• If you have a heart condition bring a copy of your ECG taken just prior to travelling.

• Avoid drinking tap water.

• Malaysia is generally safe for travellers; follow the precautions you normally would at home.

adVanCe PLanning • one month before: Book your air ticket and accommodation; start planning your itinerary.

• Three weeks before: Apply for your visa and confirm accommodation.

• one week before: Scan or photocopy all important documents (passport, driving licence etc). Search local websites for special events or festivals during your stay.

WhaT To PaCk• Light wash-and-wear clothes. Pack light and take advantage of cheap laundry services.

• A warm top and jacket for over-air-conditioned places and the cool highland regions.

• Slip-on shoes or sandals for quick removal when entering mosques and temples.

• Other handy items: A small torch, waterproof money/passport container, insect repellent, leech socks (if planning jungle hikes), earplugs, SPF30+ sunscreen and a travel umbrella.

For detailed information, see Travellers’ Helpdesk on p234

Dos and Don’tsCover your head,

shoulders, arms and legs when visiting a mosque.

Serve yourself from the communal plate with utensils, never your fingers.

Use only your right hand if eating with your fingers.

Embrace or kiss in public.

Point with your forefinger. Instead, use the thumb of your right hand with fingers folded under.

Try and shake hands with Malay women; smile and nod or bow slightly instead.

Offer alcohol or pork to Muslims (and don’t mention pork to Muslims).

Stick your chopsticks upright in a bowl of rice; it symbolises death to the Chinese.

When to Go • december–february (high season): End-of-year school holidays and Chinese New Year push up prices; advance transport and hotel bookings are important. It’s monsoon season for the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia and western Sarawak.

• July–november (mid season): From July to August vie with visitors escaping the heat of the Gulf countries. The end of Ramadan (Hari Raya) also sees increased travel activity.

• march–June (low season): Avoid the worst of the rains and humidity; plus you can enjoy places without the crush of fellow tourists.

Underwater beauty at the diving hub of Sipadan

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3 412 top experieNces

12 Top Experiences

Street Food

In Malaysia the best food is served by the countless mobile carts, stalls and shops on the street, many employing age-old recipes and techniques. On a single lane you’re likely to encounter Malay, regional Chinese, south Indian and Western cuisines. We reckon the best street food is found in Penang’s hawker centres (p111), but Kuala Lumpur and Kota Kinabalu are not far behind. For street food in air-con environs, walk into the popular Lot 10 Hutong (p75) in KL; for an authentic Southeast Asian experience, nothing beats the Night Market (p191) food stalls at Kota Kinabalu.

Don’t miss the nasi kandar served all across KL and most famously in Penang. This is an eclectic mix of Indian-Muslim food served Malaysian style.ananda bose, consultant, singapore

Shopping in Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur’s myriad malls, traditional fresh-produce markets and atmospheric night markets mean that you’ll never be far from a must-have

KL’s malls are famous, but I loved the experience of browsing for souvenirs and knick-knacks on the streets of Chinatown.

ankita Verma, physiotherapist, new delhi

3 Luxuriating in Langkawi

Pulau Langkawi (p118) isn’t called the Jewel of Kedah for nothing. Its white-sand beaches, isolated resorts, acclaimed diving and pristine jungles live up to the metaphor. Cheap drinks (Langkawi is duty-free) and a decent restaurant and bar scene provide a hint of party vibe, while a surfeit of kid-friendly activities, such as the famous Panorama Langkawi cable car ride, make it a great destination for families.

Langkawi can be sleepy or buzzing – it all depends on what you seek out. It’s gorgeous, yes, but I also found it to be surprisingly upbeat. Tina sharma, broadcast journalist and author, new delhi

purchase. A treasure house of souvenirs is Central Market (p80), based in a lovely art-deco building, where you’ll also find a selection of saris, batiks and traditional handicrafts. Fake-authentic designer wear abounds in Jalan Petaling Street Market (p81); those who’d rather splurge on the real thing can pop into high-end malls such as Pavilion KL (p77) or Suria KLCC (p69).

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Wildlife-rich jungles, idyllic islands, cool hill stations, culinary sensations and 21st-century metropolises beckon for your attention in Malaysia. This section takes you through the must-visit regions, with planned trips, or itineraries.

5 6Malaysia at a GlaNce

P186

Malaysia at a Glance

MALAYSIAN BORNEO Tropical forests, canopy walks, challenging mountains and close encounters with orang-utans, plus exciting cities like Kuching.

P166

P96P146

P128

P60

PENANG & LANGKAWI Cuisine and culture rule in Penang, especially in World Heritage-listed George Town. Langkawi is a synonym for ‘tropical paradise’.

KUALA LUMPUR Iconic skyscrapers loom over modern malls, colourful local markets, lively hawker stalls, green spaces and excellent museums.

THE PERHENTIANS & THE EAST COAST Some of Southeast Asia’s loveliest and most accessible islands, perfect for diving, snorkelling and relaxing; Malay culture abounds in East Coast towns like Kota Bharu.

BEST OF THE SOUTH History, culture and architecture in Melaka; shopping and Legoland in Johor; pristine beaches and villages in Pulau Tioman.

TAMAN NEGARA, THE HILL STATIONS & AROUND The primeval jungles of Taman Negara contrast with the colonial charm of the Cameron Highlands and heritage cities such as Taiping and Ipoh.

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7 8the perheNtiaNs & the east coast

The Perhentians & the East Coast

Why Go?The main draws of Malaysia’s beautiful east coast are the tantalising islands offshore, including the Perhentian Islands and Pulau Redang. Azure waves, powdery white sands and matchless coral and marine life await in these diving hotspots. Inland are distinctively Malay cities like Kota Bharu and Kuala Terengganu, as well as bucolic villages, beaches, a sanctuary for fireflies and Southeast Asia’s largest man-made lake.

Getting There & Awayair: Malaysia Airlines, AirAsia and Firefly fly to KL and other destinations from Kota Bharu’s sultan ismail airport. The latter two often offer specials that make flying almost as cheap as taking a bus. Pulau redang airport is served by Berjaya Air, which has daily flights to KL, Kuala Terengganu and Singapore. kuala Terengganu airport has connections to KL, Pulau Redang and Singapore.

bus: Kota Bharu and Kuala Terengganu are well connected to major cities in Malaysia. Both are an eight-hour bus journey (RM40) from KL.

boat: All the islands are reached by boat from gateway towns (p148).

Top 5 Highlights• kota bharu (p149): Stronghold of Malay culture and handicrafts.

• The Perhentian islands (p148): Two gorgeous getaways with amazingly varied beaches.

• Pulau redang (p164): Popular resort and diving package destination.

• Taman Tamadu islam (p160): Theme park near Kuala Terengganu.

• Penarik firefly sanctuary (p163): A firefly-lit boat tour at night.

Aerial view of a Malaysian East Coast island

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9 10the perheNtiaNs & the east coast

Most people fly to kota bharu (p149) and head straight to the Perhentians. However, if you stick around, you can explore the excellent museums and craft centres in the city. The Perhentian islands (p154) are a pair of islands that tick all the boxes marked paradise, and are famous for diving and snorkelling. Those who love this activity should consider other eastern island escapes (p164) – Pulau redang and Pulau kapas are best visited as package tours, while Pulau Lang Tengah is a quieter getaway. All three islands are accessible from kuala Terengganu (p160), a city that also offers nearby attractions such as the Penarik firefly sanctuary and Tasik kenyir (p163), Southeast Asia’s largest manufactured lake dotted with over 300 islands.

The Perhentians & the East Coast

Itineraries1 kota bharu (1 day)

2 The Perhentian islands (2 days)

3 kuala Terengganu (1 day)

geTTing around The region

• air: Berjaya Air has flights between Kuala Terengganu and Pulau Redang.

• boat: Speedboats will take you out to the islands, although less so during the rainy season (November to Februrary). See opposite page for details on the various gateway towns/villages to the different islands.

• bus: A good way to get between urban centres along east-coast and inland destinations.

• Taxi & shared taxi: Faster and with more flexible options than the bus.

A convenient overnight stop en route to the Perhentians, the Muslim city of Kota Bharu is in the northeastern state of Kelantan, a stronghold of Malay culture. Tour the museums (%09 748 2266; www.kelantan.muzium.net), around the central Padang merdeka (Independence Field) and you’ll come away a semi-expert in Malay culture and history. Colourful traditional markets selling food and crafts are another highlight; make sure you join the locals for a Malay feast at the night market (p152). The next morning, take a taxi to kuala besut (p151) for the speedboat to the Perhentians.1 isTana Jahar (MuseuM)

Kota Bharu’s best museum is housed in an extraordinarily beautiful chocolate brown building (1887). The exhibits focus on Kelatan’s rituals and crafts, from detailed descriptions of batik-weaving to elaborate traditional ceremonies. royal Ceremonies museum; Jln istana; adult/child rm3/1.50; 8.30am–4.45pm sat–Thu

2 isTana baTu (MuseuM)

The pale-yellow Istana Batu was constructed in 1939 and was formerly the crown prince’s palace. The richly furnished rooms give an intimate insight into royal life, with family photos and personal belongings (including the late sultan’s hat collection) scattered among the fine china and chintzy sofas.royal museum; Jln istana; adult/child rm2/1;

Kota Bharu 1 day

Highlights1 istana Jahar2 istana batu3 bank kerapu4 muzium islam5 kampung kraftangan6 muzium negeri kalanta

0 30 km0 15 miles

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