NotesOf

AWarCorrespondent

ByRichardHardingDavis

NotesofaWarCorrespondent

THECUBAN-SPANISHWAR:THEDEATHOFRODRIGUEZAdolfoRodriguezwastheonlysonofaCubanfarmer,wholivedninemilesoutsideofSantaClara,beyondthehillsthatsurroundthatcitytothenorth.WhentherevolutioninCubabrokeoutyoungRodriguezjoinedtheinsurgents,leavinghisfatherandmotherandtwosistersatthefarm.Hewastaken,inDecemberof ,bya forceof theGuardiaCivile, thecorpsd’éliteofthe Spanish army, and defended himself when they tried to capture him,woundingthreeofthemwithhismachete.Hewastriedbyamilitarycourtforbearingarmsagainstthegovernment,andsentencedtobeshotbyafusilladesomemorningbeforesunrise.Previous to execution hewas confined in themilitary prison ofSantaClarawiththirtyotherinsurgents,allofwhomweresentencedtobeshot,oneaftertheother,onmorningsfollowingtheexecutionofRodriguez.HisexecutiontookplacethemorningofthethofJanuary,,ataplaceahalf-miledistantfromthecity,onthegreatplainthatstretchesfromthefortsouttothehills,beyondwhichRodriguezhadlivedfornineteenyears.Atthetimeofhisdeathhewastwentyyearsold.Iwitnessedhisexecution,andwhatfollowsisanaccountofthewayhewentto his death. The young man’s friends could not be present, for it was

impossible for them to show themselves in that crowd and that place withwisdomorwithoutdistress,andIliketothinkthat,althoughRodriguezcouldnotknow it, therewasonepersonpresentwhenhediedwho feltkeenly forhim,andwhowasasympatheticthoughunwillingspectator.Therehadbeenafullmoonthenightprecedingtheexecution,andwhenthesquadofsoldiersmarchedfromtownitwasstillshiningbrightlythroughthemists.Itlightedaplaintwomilesinextent,brokenbyridgesandgulliesandcoveredwiththick,highgrass,andwithbunchesofcactusandpalmetto.Inthehollowoftheridgesthemistlaylikebroadlakesofwater,andononesideoftheplainstoodthewallsoftheoldtown.Ontheotherrosehillscoveredwithroyal palms that showed white in the moonlight, like hundreds of marblecolumns.Alineoftinycamp-firesthatthesentrieshadbuiltduringthenightstretchedbetweenthefortsatregularintervalsandburnedclearly.But as the light grew stronger and themoonlight faded thesewere stampedout,andwhenthesoldierscameinforcethemoonwasawhiteballinthesky,withoutradiance,thefireshadsunktoashes,andthesunhadnotyetrisen.Soevenwhenthemenwereformedintothreesidesofahollowsquare,theywere scarcely able to distinguish one another in the uncertain light of themorning.Therewereabout threehundred soldiers in the formation.Theybelonged tothe volunteers, and they deployed upon the plain with their band in frontplayingajauntyquickstep,whiletheirofficersgallopedfromonesidetotheotherthroughthegrass,seekingasuitableplacefortheexecution.Outsidethelinethebandstillplayedmerrily.Afewmenandboys,whohadbeendraggedoutof theirbedsby themusic,moved about the ridges behind the soldiers, half-clothed, unshaven, sleepy-eyed, yawning, stretching themselves nervously and shivering in the cool,dampairofthemorning.Either owing to discipline or on account of the nature of their errand, orbecausethemenwerestillbuthalfawake,therewasnotalkingintheranks,and the soldiers stood motionless, leaning on their rifles, with their backsturnedtothetown,lookingoutacrosstheplaintothehills.Themen in thecrowdbehind themwerealsogrimly silent.Theyknew thatwhatever theymight saywould be twisted into aword of sympathy for thecondemnedmanoraprotestagainst thegovernment.Sonoonespoke;eventheofficersgavetheirordersingruffwhispers,andthemeninthecrowddidnotmixtogether,butlookedsuspiciouslyatoneanotherandkeptapart.

Asthelightincreasedamassofpeoplecamehurryingfromthetownwithtwoblackfiguresleadingthem,andthesoldiersdrewupatattention,andpartofthedoublelinefellbackandleftanopeninginthesquare.Withusacondemnedmanwalksonlytheshortdistancefromhiscell to thescaffold or the electric chair, shielded from sight by the prisonwalls, and itoftenoccurseventhenthattheshortjourneyistoomuchforhisstrengthandcourage.ButtheSpaniardsonthismorningmadetheprisonerwalkforoverahalf-mileacrossthebrokensurfaceofthefields.Iexpectedtofindtheman,nomatterwhathisstrengthatothertimesmightbe,stumblingandfalteringonthiscrueljourney;butashecamenearerIsawthatheledalltheothers,thatthepriestsoneithersideofhimweretakingtwostepstohisone,andthattheyweretrippingontheirgownsandstumblingoverthehollowsintheireffortstokeeppacewithhimashewalked,erectandsoldierly,ataquickstepinadvanceofthem.He had a handsome, gentle face of the peasant type, a light, pointed beard,greatwistfuleyes,andamassofcurlyblackhair.Hewasshockinglyyoungfor such a sacrifice, and lookedmore like a Neapolitan than a Cuban. Youcould imaginehimsittingon thequayatNaplesorGenoa lolling in thesunand showing his white teeth when he laughed. Around his neck, hangingoutsidehislinenblouse,heworeanewscapular.Itseemsapettythingtohavebeenpleasedwithatsuchatime,butIconfesstohavefelta thrillofsatisfactionwhenIsaw,as theCubanpassedme, thatheheldacigarettebetweenhislips,notarrogantlynorwithbravado,butwiththenonchalanceofamanwhomeetshispunishmentfearlessly,andwhowilllethisenemiesseethattheycankillbutcannotfrightenhim.It was very quickly finished, with rough and, but for one frightful blunder,withmercifulswiftness.Thecrowdfellbackwhenitcametothesquare,andthecondemnedman,thepriests,andthefiringsquadofsixyoungvolunteerspassedinandthelineclosedbehindthem.Theofficerwhohadheld the cord thatbound theCuban’s armsbehindhimandpassedacrosshisbreast, let it fallon thegrassanddrewhissword,andRodriguez dropped his cigarette fromhis lips and bent and kissed the crosswhichthepriestheldupbeforehim.The elder of the priests moved to one side and prayed rapidly in a loudwhisper,whiletheother,ayoungerman,walkedbehindthefiringsquadandcovered his facewith his hands. They had both spent the last twelve hourswithRodriguezinthechapeloftheprison.

TheCubanwalkedtowheretheofficerdirectedhimtostand,andturninghisbackonthesquare,facedthehillsandtheroadacrossthem,whichledtohisfather’sfarm.As the officer gave the first command he straightened himself as far as thecordswouldallow,andhelduphisheadandfixedhiseyesimmovablyonthemorninglight,whichhadjustbeguntoshowabovethehills.Hemadeapictureofsuchpathetichelplessness,butofsuchcourageanddignity,thatheremindedmeontheinstantofthatstatueofNathanHalewhichstandsintheCityHallPark,abovetheroarofBroadway.TheCuban’sarmswerebound,asarethoseofthestatue,andhestoodfirmly,withhisweightrestingonhisheelslikeasoldieronparade,andwithhisfaceheldupfearlessly,asisthatofthestatue.Buttherewasthisdifference, thatRodriguez,whileprobablyaswillingtogivesixlivesforhiscountryaswastheAmericanrebel,beingonlyapeasant,didnotthinktosayso,andhewillnot,inconsequence,liveinbronzeduringthelivesofmanymen,butwillberemembered only as one of thirty Cubans, one of whomwas shot at SantaClaraoneachsucceedingdayatsunrise.The officer had given the order, the men had raised their pieces, and thecondemnedmanhadheardtheclicksofthetriggersastheywerepulledback,and he had notmoved.And thenhappenedoneof themost cruelly refined,though unintentional, acts of torture that one can verywell imagine.As theofficer slowly raised his sword, preparatory to giving the signal, one of themountedofficersrodeuptohimandpointedoutsilentlythat,asIhadalreadyobservedwith some satisfaction, the firing squadwere so placed thatwhenthey fired theywould shoot several of the soldiers stationed on the extremeendofthesquare.Theircaptainmotionedhismentolowertheirpieces,andthenwalkedacrossthegrassandlaidhishandontheshoulderofthewaitingprisoner.Itisnotpleasanttothinkwhatthatshockmusthavebeen.Themanhadsteeledhimselftoreceiveavolleyofbullets.Hebelievedthatinthenextinstanthewouldbeinanotherworld;hehadheardthecommandgiven,hadheardtheclickoftheMausers as the locks caughtand then, at that suprememoment,ahumanhandhadbeenlaiduponhisshoulderandavoicespokeinhisear.Youwouldexpectthatanyman,snatchedbacktolifeinsuchafashionwouldstartandtrembleatthereprieve,orwouldbreakdownaltogether,butthisboyturned his head steadily, and followed with his eyes the direction of the

officer’ssword,thennoddedgravely,and,withhisshoulderssquared,tookupthenewposition,straightenedhisback,andoncemoreheldhimselferect.Asanexhibitionofself-controlthisshouldsurelyrankabovefeatsofheroismperformedinbattle,wheretherearethousandsofcomradestogiveinspiration.Thismanwasalone,insightofthehillsheknew,withonlyenemiesabouthim,withnosourcetodrawonforstrengthbutthatwhichlaywithinhimself.ThedeathofRodriguezTheofficerof the firingsquad,mortifiedbyhisblunder,hastilywhippeduphis sword, themenoncemore levelledtheirrifles,theswordrose,dropped,andthemenfired.AtthereporttheCuban’sheadsnappedbackalmostbetweenhisshoulders,buthisbodyfell slowly, as though some one hadpushedhimgentlyforwardfrombehindandhehadstumbled.Hesankonhissideinthewetgrasswithoutastruggleorsound,anddidnotmoveagain.Itwasdifficulttobelievethathemeanttoliethere,thatitcouldbeendedsowithoutaword, that theman in the linen suitwouldnot rise tohis feet andcontinue towalkonover thehills,asheapparentlyhadstarted todo, tohishome; that there was not a mistake somewhere, or that at least some onewouldbesorryorsaysomethingorruntopickhimup.But,fortunately,hedidnotneedhelp,andthepriestsreturnedtheyoungeronewith the tears running down his faceand donned their vestments and read abrief requiemforhis soul,while thesquadstooduncovered,and themen inhollow square shook their accoutrements into place, and shifted their piecesandgotreadyfortheordertomarch,andthebandbeganagainwiththesamequickstepwhichthefusilladehadinterrupted.Thefigurestill layon thegrassuntouched,andnooneseemedtorememberthat it hadwalked thereof itself, or noticed that the cigarette still burned, atinyringoflivingfire,attheplacewherethefigurehadfirststood.The figure was a thing of the past, and the squad shook itself like a greatsnake,andthenbrokeintolittlepiecesandstartedoffjauntily,stumblinginthehighgrassandstrivingtokeepsteptothemusic.Theofficersleditpastthefigureinthelinensuit,andsoclosetoitthatthefileclosershadtopartwiththecolumntoavoidtreadingonit.Eachsoldierashepassed turned and looked down on it, some craning their necks curiously,othersgivingacarelessglance,andsomewithoutany interestatall,as theywouldhavelookedatahousebytheroadside,oraholeintheroad.

Oneyoungsoldiercaughthisfootinatrailingvine,justoppositetoit,andfell.Hegrewveryredwhenhiscomradesgiggledathimforhisawkwardness.Thecrowdof sleepy spectators fell in on either sideof theband.They, too, hadforgotten it,and thepriestsput theirvestmentsback in thebagandwrappedtheirheavycloaksaboutthem,andhurriedoffaftertheothers.Every one seemed to have forgotten it except two men, who came slowlytowardsitfromthetown,drivingabullock-cartthatboreanunplanedcoffin,eachwithacigarettebetweenhislips,andwithhisthroatwrappedinashawltokeepoutthemorningmists.Atthatmomentthesun,whichhadshownsomepromiseofitscomingintheglowabovethehills,shotupsuddenlyfrombehindtheminallthesplendorofthetropics,afierce,reddiskofheat,andfilledtheairwithwarmthandlight.Thebayonetsoftheretreatingcolumnflashedinit,andatthesightaroosterina farm-yard near by crowed vigorously, and a dozen bugles answered thechallengewiththebrisk,cheerynotesofthereveille,andfromallpartsofthecitythechurchbellsjangledoutthecallforearlymass,andthelittleworldofSanta Clara seemed to stretch itself and to wake to welcome the day justbegun.ButasIfellinattherearoftheprocessionandlookedback,thefigureoftheyoung Cuban, who was no longer a part of the world of Santa Clara, wasasleep in thewet grass,with hismotionless arms still tightly bound behindhim,with the scapular twisted awry across his face, and the blood fromhisbreastsinkingintothesoilhehadtriedtofree.

THEGREEK-TURKISHWAR:THEBATTLEOFVELESTINOSTheTurkshadmade threeattacksonVelestinosonthreedifferentdays,andeachtimehadbeenrepulsed.Aweeklater,onthethofMay,theycamebackagain,tothenumberoftenthousand,andbroughtfourbatterieswiththem,andthefightingcontinuedfortwomoredays.ThiswascalledthesecondbattleofVelestinos.Intheafternoonoftheth the Crown Prince withdrewfromPharsalatotakeupastrongerpositionatDomokos,andtheGreeksunderGeneralSmolenski,themilitaryheroofthecampaign,wereforcedtoretreat,and the Turks came in, and, according to their quaint custom, burned thevillageandmarchedontoVolo.JohnBass,theAmericancorrespondent,andmyselfwerekeepinghouseinthevillage,inthehomeofthemayor.Hehadfledfromthetown,ashadnearlyallthevillagers;andaswelikedtheappearanceofhishouse,IgaveBassalegupoverthewallaroundhisgarden,andBassopenedthegate,andweclimbedinthroughhisfrontwindow.Itwas

liketheinvasionofthehomeoftheDusantes by Mrs. Lecks and Mrs.Aleshine, and, like them, we were constantly making discoveries of freshtreasure-trove. Sometimes it was in the form of a cake of soap or a tin ofcoffee,andonceitwasthemayor’sflutedpetticoats,whichwetriedon,andfoundveryheavy.Wecouldnotdiscoverwhathedidforpockets.Allofthesethings,andthehouseitself,wereburnedtoashes,weweretold,afewhoursafterweretreated,andwefeellesstroublednowathavingmadesuchfreeuseofthem.Onthemorningof the thwewereawakenedbythefiringofcannonfromahilljustoverourheads,andwemetinthemiddleoftheroomandsolemnlyshookhands.Therewastobeabattle,andweweretheonlycorrespondentsonthespot.AsIrepresentedtheLondon Times, Bass was the onlyrepresentative of an American newspaper who saw this fight from itsbeginningtoitsend.Wefoundallthehillstotheleftofthetowntoppedwithlonglinesofmencrouchinginlittletrenches.Therewerefourrowsofhills.Ifyouhadmeasuredthedistancefromonehill-toptothenext,theywouldhavebeenfromonehundredtothreehundredyardsdistantfromoneanother.Inbetweenthehillsweregullies,orlittlevalleys,andthebedsofstreamsthathaddriedupinthehotsun.Thesevalleyswerefilledwithhighgrassthatwavedaboutinthebreezeandwasoccasionallytornupandtossedintheairbyashell.ThepositionoftheGreekforceswasverysimple.Onthetopofeachhillwasatrenchtwoorthreefeetdeepandsomehundredyardslong.Theearththathadbeenscoopedouttomakethetrenchwaspackedontheedgefacingtheenemy,andonthetopofthatsomeofthemenhadpiledstones,throughwhichtheypokedtheirrifles.Whenashellstrucktheridgeitwouldsometimesscatterthesestonesinamongthemen,andtheydidquiteasmuchdamageastheshells.Backofthesetrenches,anddownthatsideofthehillwhichwasfartherfromtheenemy,werethereserves,whosprawledat length in the longgrass,andsmokedandtalkedandwatchedtheshellsdroppingintothegullyattheirfeet.The battle,which lasted two days, opened in a sudden and terrific stormofhail.Butthestormpassedasquicklyasitcame,leavingthetrenchesrunningwithwater,liketheguttersofacitystreetafteraspringshower;andthemensoonsoppedthemupwiththeirovercoatsandblankets,andinhalfanhourthesunhaddriedthewetuniforms,andthefield-birdshadbeguntochirpagain,andthegrasswaswarmandfragrant.Thesunwasterriblyhot.Therewasnootherdayduringthatentirebriefcampaignwhenitsglarewassointenseortheheat so suffocating. The men curled up in the trenches, with their headspressedagainst thedampearth,pantingandbreathingheavily, and theheat-

wavesdancedandquiveredaboutthem,makingtheplainbelowflickerlikeapictureinacinematograph.Fromtimetotimeanofficerwouldriseandpeerdownintothegreatplain,shadinghiseyeswithhishands,andshoutsomethingatthem,andtheywouldturnquicklyinthetrenchandriseononeknee.Andattheshoutthatfollowedtheywouldfirefourorfiveroundsrapidlyandevenly,andthen,atasoundfromtheofficer’swhistle,woulddropbackagainandpickupthecigarettestheyhadplacedinthegrassandbeginleisurelytoswabouttheirrifleswithapieceofdirtyragonacleaningrod.Downintheplainbelowtherewasapparentlynothingatwhichtheycouldshootexceptthegreatshadowsofthecloudsdriftingacrossthevastchecker-boardofgreenandyellowfields,anddisappearingfinallybetweenthemountainpassesbeyond.Insomeplacesthereweresquaredarkpatchesthatmighthavebeenbushes,andnearertousthanthesewerelonglinesoffreshearth,fromwhichsteamseemedtobeescapinginlittlewisps.WhatimpressedusmostofwhatwecouldseeofthebattlethenwastheremarkablenumberofcartridgestheGreeksoldierswastedinfiringintospace,andthefactthattheyhadbeguntofireatsuchlongrangethat, in order to get the elevation, they had placed the rifle butt under thearmpitinsteadofagainsttheshoulder.Theirsightswereatthetopnotch.Thecartridgesremindedoneofcorn-cobsjumpingoutofacorn-sheller,anditwasinterestingwhentheboltswereshotbacktoseeahundredofthempopupintotheairatthesametime,flashinginthesunasthoughtheyweregladtohavedonetheirworkandtogetoutagain.Theyrolledbythedozensunderfoot,andtwinkledinthegrass,andwhenoneshiftedhispositioninthenarrowtrench,orstretchedhiscrampedlegs,theytinkledmusically.Itwaslikewadinginagutterfilledwiththimbles.Thentherebeganaconcertwhichcamefromjustoverheadaconcertofjarringsoundsandlittlewhispers.The“shriekingshrapnel,”ofwhichonereadsinthedescriptionofeverybattle,didnotseemsomuchlikeashriekasitdidlikethejarringsoundoftelegraphwireswhensome onestrikesthepolefromwhichtheyhang,andwhentheycameveryclosethenoisewasliketherushingsoundthatrisesbetweentworailroadtrainswhentheypasseachotherinoppositedirectionsandatgreatspeed.Afterafewhourswelearnedbyobservationthatwhenashellsangoverheadithadalreadystrucksomewhereelse,whichwascomforting,andwhichwasexplained,ofcourse,bythefactthatthespeedoftheshellissomuchgreaterthantherateatwhichsoundtravels.Thebulletsweremuchmoredisturbing;theyseemedtobelessopenintheirwarfare,andtostealupandsneakby,leavingnosign,andonlytowhisperastheypassed.Theymovedunderacloakofinvisibility,andmadeonefeelasthoughheweretheblindmaninagameofblind-man’s-buff,whereeveryonetappedhiminpassing,leavinghimpuzzledandignorantasto

whithertheyhadgoneandfromwhatpointtheywouldcomenext.Thebulletssoundedlikerustlingsilk,orlikehumming-birdsonawarmsummer’sday,orlikethewindasitisimitatedonthestageofatheatre.Any onewhohasstoodbehindthesceneswhenastormisprogressingonthestage,knowsthelittlewheelwoundwithsilkthatbrushesagainstanotherpieceofsilk,andwhichproducesthewhistlingeffectofthewind.AtVelestinos, when thefiringwasveryheavy,itwasexactlyasthoughsomeonewereturningoneofthesesilkwheels,andsorapidlyastomakethewhistlingcontinuous.Whenthisconcertopened,theofficersshoutedoutneworders,andeachofthemenshovedhissightnearertothebarrel,andwhenhefiredagain,rubbedthebuttofhisgunsnuglyagainsthisshoulder.Thehugegreenblotchesontheplainhadturnedblue,andnowwecoulddistinguishthattheymoved,andthattheyweremovingsteadilyforward.Thentheywouldceasetomove,andalittlelaterwouldbehiddenbehindgreatpuffsofwhitesmoke,whichwerefollowedbyaflashofflame;andstilllatertherewouldcomeadullreport.Atthesameinstantsomethingwouldhurlitselfjarringthroughtheairaboveourheads,andbyturningononeelbowwecouldseeasuddenupheavalinthesunnylandscapebehindus,aspurtofearthandstoneslikeaminiaturegeyser,whichwasfilledwithbrokenbranchesandtuftsofgrassandpiecesofrock.As theTurkishaimgrewbetter thesevolcanoesappearedhigherup thehill,creepingnearerandnearertotherampartoffreshearthonthesecondtrenchuntil the shells hammered it at last again and again, sweeping it away andcuttinggreatgashesinit,throughwhichwesawthefiguresofmencaughtupand hurled to one side, and others flinging themselves face downward asthoughtheyweredivingintowater;andatthesameinstantinourowntrenchthemenwouldgaspas though theyhadbeenstruck too,and thenbecomingconsciousofhavingdonethiswouldturnandsmilesheepishlyateachother,andcrawlcloserintotheburrowstheyhadmadeintheearth.AmountainbatteryatVelestinosFrom where we sat on the edge of the trench, with our feet among thecartridges,wecould,byleaningforward,lookoverthepiled-upearthintotheplainbelow,andsoon,withoutanyaidfromfield-glasses,wesawtheblocksof blue break up into groups ofmen.Thesemen came across the ploughedfields in long, widely opened lines, walking easily and leisurely, as thoughtheywereplayinggolforsowingseedinthefurrows.TheGreekriflescrackledandflashedatthelines,butthemenbelowcameonquitesteadily,pickingtheirwayoverthefurrowsandappearingutterlyunconsciousoftheseventhousandriflesthatwerecallingonthemtohalt.Theywereadvancingdirectlytowardalittlesugar-loafhill,onthetopofwhichwasamountainbatteryperchedlikeatiaraonawoman’shead.Itwas

throwingoneshellafteranotherintheverypathofthemenbelow,buttheTurksstillcontinuedtopicktheirwayacrossthefield,withoutshowinganyregardforthemountainbattery.Itwasworsethanthreatening;itseemedalmostasthoughtheymeanttoinsultus.Iftheyhadcomeuponaruntheywouldnothaveappearedsocontemptuous,foritwouldhavelookedthenasthoughtheyweretryingtoescapetheGreekfire,orthattheywereatleastinterestedinwhatwasgoingforward.Butthesteadyadvanceofsomanymen,eachploddingalongbyhimself,withhisheadbowedandhisgunonhisshoulder,wasaggravating.Therewasalittlevillageatthefootofthehill.Itwassosmallthatnoonehadconsideredit.Itwasmorelikeacollectionofstablesgatheredroundaresidencethanatown,andtherewasawallcompletelyencirclingit,withagateinthewallthatfacedus.Suddenlythedoorsofthisgatewereburstopenfromtheinside,andamaninafezranthroughthem,followedbymanymore.Thefirstmanwaswavingasword,andapeasantinpetticoatsranathissideandpointedupwithhishandatourtrench.Untilthatmomentthebattlehadlackedallhumaninterest;wemighthavebeenwatchingafightagainstthestarsorthemaninthemoon,and,inspiteofthenoiseandclatteroftheGreekrifles,andtheghostlikewhispersandtherushingsoundsintheair,therewasnothingtoremindusofanyotherbattleofwhichwehadheardorread.Butwehadseenpicturesofofficerswavingswords,andweknewthatthefezwasthesignoftheTurkoftheenemyofthemenwhowereinvadingThessaly,whowereatthatmomentplanningtocomeupasteephillonwhichwehappenedtobesittingandattackthepeopleontopofit.Andthespectacleatoncebecamecomprehensible,andtookonthehumaninterestithadlacked.Themenseemedtofeelthis,fortheysprangupandbegancheeringandshouting,andfiredinanuprightposition,andbysodoingexposedthemselvesatfulllengthtothefirefromthemenbelow.TheTurksinfrontofthevillageranbackintoitagain,andthoseinthefieldsbeyondturnedandbegantomoveaway,butinthatsameplodding,aggravatingfashion.Theymovedsoleisurelythattherewasapauseinthenoisealongtheline,whilethemenwatchedthemtomakesurethattheywerereallyretreating.Andthentherewasalongcheer,afterwhichtheyallsatdown,breathingdeeply, and wipingthesweatanddustacrosstheirfaces,andtooklongpullsattheircanteens.Thedifferenttrencheswerenotallengagedatthesametime.Theyactedaccordingtotheindividualjudgmentoftheircommandingofficer,butalwaysforthegeneralgood.Sometimesthefireoftheenemywouldbedirectedononeparticulartrench,anditwouldbeimpossibleforthemeninthattrenchtoriseandreplywithouthayingtheirheadscarriedaway;sotheywouldliehidden,andthemeninthetrenchesflankingthemwouldactintheirbehalf,andraketheenemyfromthefrontandfromeveryside,untilthefireonthat

trenchwassilenced,orturneduponsomeotherpoint.Thetrenchesstretchedforoverhalfamileinasemicircle,andthelittlehillsoverwhichtheyranlayatsomanydifferentangles,androsetosuchdifferentheights,thatsometimesthemeninonetrenchfireddirectlyovertheheadsoftheirownmen.FrommanytrenchesinthefirstlineitwasimpossibletoseeanyoftheGreeksoldiersexceptthoseimmediatelybesideyou.Ifyoulookedbackorbeyondoneitherhandtherewasnothingtobeseenbuthighhillstoppedwithfreshearth,andthewavingyellowgrass,andtheglaringbluesky.GeneralSmolenskidirectedtheGreeksfromtheplaintothefarrightofthetown;andhispresencethere,althoughnoneofthemensawnorheardofhimdirectlythroughouttheentireday,wasmorepotentforgoodthanwouldhavebeenthepresenceoffivethousandothermenheldinreserve.Hewasamileortwomilesawayfromthetrenches,butthefactthathewasthere,andthatitwasSmolenskiwhowasgivingtheorders,wasenough.FewhadeverseenSmolenski,buthisnamewassufficient;itwasaseffectiveasisMr.Bowen’snameonaBankofEnglandnote.Itgaveoneapleasantfeelingtoknowthathewassomewherewithincall;youfelttherewouldbeno “routs” norstampedeswhilehewasthere.Andsofortwodaysthoseseventhousandmenlayinthetrenches,repulsingattackafterattackoftheTurkishtroops,suffocatedwiththeheatandchilledwithsuddenshowers,andsweptunceasinglybyshellsandbulletspartlybecausetheyhappenedtobegoodmenandbravemen,butlargelybecausetheyknewthatsomewherebehindthemastout,bull-neckedsoldierwassittingonacamp-stool,watchingthemthroughapairoffield-glasses.Towardmid-dayyouwouldseeamanleavethetrenchwithacomrade’sarmaroundhim,andstarton the longwalk to the townwhere thehospitalcorpswerewaitingforhim.Thesemendidnotweartheirwoundswitheitherprideorbraggadocio,butregardedthewetsleevesandshapelessarmsinasortofwonderingsurprise.Therewasmuchmoreofsurprisethanofpainintheirfaces,andtheyseemedtobepuzzlingastowhattheyhaddoneinthepasttodeservesuchapunishment.FiringfromthetrenchesatVelestinosOthermenwerecarriedoutofthetrenchandlaidontheirbacksonthehighgrass,staringupdrunkenlyattheglaringsun,andwiththeirlimbsfallenintounfamiliarposes.Theylaysostill,andtheyweresoutterlyobliviousoftheroarandrattleandtheanxiousenergyaroundthemthatonegrewratherafraidofthemandoftheirsuperioritytotheirsurroundings.Thesunbeatonthem,andtheinsectsinthegrasswavingabovethembuzzedandhummed,orburrowedinthewarmmoistearthuponwhichtheylay;overtheirheadstheinvisiblecarriersofdeathjarredtheairwithshrillcrescendoes, and near them

acomradesathackingwithhisbayonetatalumpofhardbread.Hesprawledcontentedlyinthehotsun,withhumpedshouldersandlegsfarapart,andwithhiscaptippedfaroverhiseyes.Everynowandagainhewouldpause,withapieceofcheesebalancedontheendofhisknife-blade,andlookatthetwistedfiguresbyhimonthegrass,orhewoulddodgeinvoluntarilyasashellswunglowabovehishead,andsmilenervouslyatthestillformsoneithersideofhimthathadnotmoved.Thenhebrushed thecrumbsfromhis jacketand tookadrinkoutofhishotcanteen,andlookingagainatthesleepingfigurespressingdownthelonggrassbesidehim,crawledbackonhishandsandkneestothetrenchandpickeduphiswaitingrifle.Thedeadgavedignitytowhattheothermenweredoing,andmadeitnoble,and,fromanotherpointofview,quitesenseless.Fortheirdyinghadprovednothing.Menwhocouldhavebeenmuchbettersparedthanthey,werestillaliveinthetrenches,andfornoreasonbutthroughmeredumbchance.Therewasnoselectionoftheunfittest;itseemedtoberuledbyunreasoningluck.Acertainnumberofshellsandbulletspassedthroughacertainareaofspace,andmenofdifferentbulksblockedthatspaceindifferentplaces.Ifamanhappenedtobestandinginthelineofabullethewaskilledandpassedintoeternity,leavingawifeandchildren,perhaps,tomournhim.“Fatherdied,”thesechildrenwillsay,“doinghisduty.”Asamatteroffact,fatherdiedbecausehehappenedtostandupatthewrongmoment,orbecauseheturnedtoaskthemanonhisrightforamatch,insteadofleaningtowardtheleft,andheprojectedhisbulkoftwohundred pounds where a bullet, fired by a manwhodidnotknowhimandwhohadnotaimedathim,happenedtowanttherightofway.Oneof the twohad togive it,andas thebulletwouldnot, thesoldierhadhishearttornout.Themanwhosatnexttomehappenedtostooptofillhiscartridge-boxjustasthebulletthatwantedthespacehehadoccupiedpassedoverhisbentshoulder;andsohewasnotkilled,butwillliveforsixtyyears,perhaps,andwilldomuchgoodormuchevil.Anothermaninthesametrenchsatuptocleanhisrifle,andhadhisarmintheairdrivingthecleaningroddownthebarrel,whenabulletpassedthroughhislungs,andthegunfellacross his face, with the rod sticking in it, and he pitched forward on hisshoulderquitedead. Ifhehadnotcleanedhisgunat thatmomenthewouldprobablybealiveinAthensnow,sittinginfrontofacaféandfightingthewaroveragain.Viewedfromthatpoint,andleavingoutthefactthatGodorderedit all, the fortunes of the game of war seemed as capricious as matchingpennies,andasimpersonalas thewheelatMonteCarlo.Init thebravemandid notwin because hewas brave, but because hewas lucky.A fool and aphilosopherareequalatagameofdice.Andthesemenwhothrewdicewithdeathwereinterestingtowatch,because,thoughtheygambledforsogreatastake, they did so unconcernedly and without flinching, and withoutapparentlyappreciatingtheseriousnessofthegame.

Therewasared-headed,freckledpeasantboy,indirtypetticoats,whoguidedBassandmyselftothetrenches.Hewasoneofthefewpeasantswhohadnotrunaway,andashehaddrivensheepovereveryfootofthehills,hewasabletoguidethesoldiersthroughthoseplaceswheretheywerebestprotectedfromthebulletsoftheenemy.Hedidthisallday,andwasalways,whethercomingorgoing,underaheavyfire;butheenjoyedthatfact,andheseemedtoregardthebattleonlyasadelightfulchangeinthequietroutineofhislife,asoneofourowncountryboysathomewouldregardthecomingofthespringcircusortheburningofaneighbor’sbarn.Herandancingaheadofus,pointingtowherealedgeofrockofferedanaturalshelter,orshowingusasteepgullywherethebulletscouldnotfall.Whentheycameverynearhimhewouldjumphighintheair,notbecausehewasstartled,butoutofpureanimaljoyintheexcitementofit,andhewouldfrownimportantlyandshakehisredcurlsatus,asthoughtosay:“Itoldyoutobecareful.Now,yousee.Don’tletthathappenagain.”Wemethimmanytimesduringthetwodays,escortingdifferentcompaniesofsoldiersfromonepointtoanother,asthoughtheywerevisitorstohisestate.Whenashellbroke,hewouldpickupapieceandpresentittotheofficerincharge,asthoughitwereaflowerhehadpluckedfromhisowngarden,andwhichhewantedhisguesttocarryawaywithhimasasouvenirofhisvisit.Some oneaskedtheboyifhisfatherandmotherknewwherehewas,andhereplied,withamusement,thattheyhadrunawayanddesertedhim,andthathehadremainedbecausehewishedtoseewhataTurkisharmylookedlike.HewasamuchmorepluckyboythantheoverratedCasabianca,whomayhavestoodontheburningdeckwhenceallbuthimhadfledbecausehecouldnotswim,andbecauseitwaswithhimachoiceofbeingeitherburnedordrowned.Thisboystucktotheburningdeck when it waspossibleforhimatanytimetohavewalkedawayandleftitburning.Buthestayed on because he was amused, and because he was able to help thesoldiersfromthecityinsafetyacrosshisnativeheath.Hewasmuchthebestpartoftheshow,andoneofthebravestGreeksonthefield.Hewillgrowuptobesomethingfine,nodoubt,andhisspiritwillrebelagainsthavingtospendhislifewatchinghisfather’ssheep.HemayevenwintheracefromMarathon.Another Greek who was a most interesting figure to us was a LieutenantAmbroiseFrantzis.Hewasincommandofthemountainbatteryontheflat,roundtopofthehighhill.Onaccountofitsheighttheplaceseemedmuchnearertothesunthananyotherpartoftheworld,andtheheattherewasthreetimesasfierceasinthetrenchesbelow.Whenyouhadclimbedtothetopofthishillitwaslikestandingonaroof-garden,orasthoughyouwerewatchinganavalbattlefromafightingtopofoneofthebattleships.Thetopofthehillwasnotunlikeanimmensecircusringinappearance.Thepiled-upeartharounditscircularedgegavethatimpression,andtheglaringyellowwheat

thatwastrampedintoglaringyellowsoil,andtheblueammunition-boxesscatteredabout,helpedouttheillusion.Itwasanexceedinglybusyplace,andthesmokedriftedacrossitcontinually,hidingusfromoneanotherinacurtainofflyingyellowdust,whileoverourheadstheTurkishshellsracedaftereachothersorapidlythattheybeatouttheairlikethebranchesofatreeinastorm.Onaccountofitsheight,andtheglaringheat,andtheshellspassing,andtheGreekgunsgoingoffandthenturningsomersaults,itwasnotaplacesuitedformeditation;butAmbroiseFrantzismeditatedthereasthoughhewereinhisownstudy.Hewasaveryyoungmanandveryshy,andhewastoobusytoconsiderhisownsafety,ortotaketime,astheothersdid,toshowthathewasnotconsideringit.Someoftheotherofficersstooduponthebreastworksandcalledtheattentionofthementowhattheyweredoing;butastheydidnotwishthementofollowtheirexampleinthis,itwasdifficulttoseewhattheyexpectedtogainbytheirbraggadocio.Frantziswasasunconcernedasanartistpaintingabigpictureinhisstudio.Thebattleplainbelowhimwashiscanvas,andhisninemountaingunswerehispaintbrushes.AndhepaintedoutTurksandTurkishcannonwiththesameconcentrated,seriousexpressionofcountenancethatyouseeonthefaceofanartistwhenhebitesonebrushbetweenhislipsandwithanotherwipesoutafalselineoratouchofthewrongcolor.Youhaveseenanartistcockhisheadononeside,andshutoneeyeandfrownathiscanvas,andthenselectseveralbrushesandmixdifferentcolorsandhitthecanvasaboldstroke,andthenleanbacktonotetheeffect.Frantzisactedinjustthatway.Hewouldstandwithhislegsapartandhisheadononeside,pullingmeditativelyathispointedbeard,andthentakingacloserlookthroughhisfield-glasses,wouldselectthethreegunshehaddecidedwouldgivehimtheeffecthewantedtoproduce,andhewouldproducethateffect.WhentheshotstruckplumpintheTurkishlines,andwecouldseetheearthleapupintotheairlikegeysersofmuddywater,andeachgunnerwouldwavehiscapandcheer,Frantzis would only smile uncertainly,and begin again, with the aid of his field-glasses, to puzzle out freshcombinations.ThebattlethathadbeguninastormofhailendedonthefirstdayinastormofbulletsthathadbeenheldinreservebytheTurks,andwhichletoffjustaftersundown.Theycamefromanatural trench,formedby thedried-upbedofastream which lay just below the hill on which the first Greek trench wassituated.TherewerebushesgrowingonthebankofthestreamnearesttotheGreeklines,andthesehidthemenwhooccupiedit.Throughoutthedaytherehadbeenanirritatingfirefromthistrenchfromwhatappearedtobenotmorethanadozen rifles,butwecould see that itwas fed from time to timewithmanyboxes of ammunition,whichwere carried to it on the backs ofmulesfromtheTurkishpositionahalfmilefarther to therear.BassandacorporaltookagreataversiontothislittlegroupofTurks,notbecausethereweretoo

manyofthemtobedisregarded,butbecausetheyweresonear;andBasskeptthe corporal’s services engaged in firing into it, and in discouraging theammunitionmuleswhentheywerebeingdriveninthatdirection.Ourcorporalwasasharp-shooter,and,accordingly,felthissuperioritytohiscomrades;andhehadthatcheerfulcontemptforhisofficersthatalltrueGreeksoldiersenjoy;and so he never joined in the volley-firing, but kept his ammunitionexclusivelyforthedozenmenbehindthebushesandforthemules.Hewaged,as it were, a little battle on his own account. The other men rose ascommandedand fired regularvolleys, and sankbackagain,buthe fixedhissightstosuithisownideaoftherange,andherosewhenhewasreadytodoso,andfiredwheneverhethoughtbest.Whenhisofficer,whokeptcurledupinthehollowofthetrench,commandedhimtoliedown,hewouldfrownandshakehisheadattheinterruption,andpaidnofurtherattentiontotheorder.Hewas as much alone as a hunter on a mountain peak stalking deer, andwheneverhefiredatthemeninthebusheshewouldswearsoftly,andwhenhe fired at themules hewould chuckle and laughwith delight and content.Themuleshadtocrossaploughedfieldinordertoreachthebushes,andsowewere able tomarkwherehis bullets struck, andwe could see them skipacross the field,kickingup thedirt as theyadvanced,until they stopped themule altogether, or frightened themanwhowas leading it into a disorderlyretreat.It appeared later that instead of there being but twelvemen in these bushestherewere six hundred,andthattheywerehidingthereuntilthesunsetinordertomakeafinalattackonthefirsttrench.Theyhadprobablyarguedthatatsunsetthestrainoftheday’sworkwouldhavetoldontheGreekmorale,thatthemen’snerveswouldbejerkingandtheirstomachsachingforfood,andthattheywouldbereadyfordarknessandsleep,andinnoconditiontorepulseafreshandvigorousattack.So,justasthesunsank,andtheofficerswerecountingthecostindeadandwounded,andthemenweregatheringupblanketsandovercoats,andthefiringfromtheGreeklineshadalmostceased,therecameafiercerattlefromthetrenchtotherightofus,likeawatch-dogbarkingthealarm,andtheotherstookitupfromalloverthehill,andwhenwelookeddownintotheplainbelowtolearnwhatitmeant,wesawitbluewithmen,whoseemedtohavesprungfromtheearth.Theywereclamberingfromthebedofthestream,breakingthroughthebushes,andformingintoalongline,which,assoonasformed,wasatoncehiddenatregularintervalsbyflashesofflamethatseemedtoleapfromonegun-barreltothenext,asyouhaveseenacurrentofelectricityrunalongalineofgas-jets.Inthedimtwilighttheseflashesweremuchmoreblindingthantheyhadbeenintheglareofthesun,andthecrashoftheartillerycomingontopofthesilencewasthemorefierceandterriblebythecontrast.TheTurksweresocloseonusthatthefirsttrenchcoulddolittletohelpitself,andthemenhuddledagainstit

whiletheircomradesonthesurroundinghillsfoughtforthem,theirvolleyspassingcloseaboveourheads,andmeetingtherushoftheTurkishbulletsontheway,sothattherewasnowonecontinuouswhistlingshriek,liketheroarofthewindthroughtheriggingofashipinastorm.Ifamanhadraisedhisarmabovehisheadhishandwouldhavebeentornoff.Ithadcomeupsosuddenlythatitwasliketwodogs,eachspringingatthethroatoftheother,andinagreaterdegreeithadsomethingofthesoundoftwowildanimalsstrugglingforlife.Volleyansweredvolleyasthoughwithpersonalhateonecrashinginupontherolloftheother,orbeatingitoutofrecognitionwiththeburstingroarofheavycannon.AtthesameinstantalloftheTurkishbatteriesopenedwithgreat,ponderous,boomingexplosions,andthelittlemountaingunsbarkedandsnarledandshriekedbackatthem,andtheriflevolleyscrackledandshotoutblisteringflames,whiletheairwasfilledwithinvisibleexpresstrainsthatshookandjarreditandcrashedintooneanother,burstingandshriekingandgroaning.Itseemedasthoughyouwerelyinginaburningforest,withgianttreetrunksthathadwithstoodthestormsofcenturiescrashingandfallingaroundyourears,andsendingupgreatshowersofsparksandflame.Thislastedforfiveminutesorless,andthenthedeath-gripseemedtorelax,thevolleyscamebrokenly,likeamanpantingforbreath,thebulletsceasedtosoundwiththehissofescapingsteam,andrustledaimlesslyby,andfromhill-toptohill-toptheofficers’whistlessoundedasthoughasportsmanwerecallingoffhisdogs.TheTurkswithdrewintothecomingnight,andtheGreekslayback,pantingandsweating,andstaredopen-eyedatoneanother,likemenwhohadlookedforamomentintohell,andhadcomebacktotheworldagain.Thenextdaywaslikethefirst,exceptthatbyfiveo’clockintheafternoontheTurksappearedonourleftflank,crawlingacrossthehillslikeaninvasionofgreatants,and theGreekarmythatatVelestinoshadmade the twobestandmost dignified stands of the war withdrew upon Halmyros, and the Turkspoured into thevillageandburned it, leavingnothing standing save two tallTurkish minarets that many years before, when Thessaly belonged to theSultan,theTurksthemselveshadplacedthere.

ITHEROUGHRIDERSATGUASIMAS

On the day the American troops landed on the coast of Cuba, the Cubansinformed General Wheeler that the enemy were intrenched at Guasimas,blockingthewaytoSantiago.Guasimasisnotavillage,norevenacollectionofhouses;it isthemeetingplaceoftwotrailswhichjoinattheapexofaV,threemilesfromtheseaporttownofSiboney,andcontinuemergedinasingletrailtoSantiago.GeneralWheeler,guidedbytheCubans,reconnoitred this

trailontherdofJune,andwiththepositionoftheenemyfullyexplainedtohim,returnedtoSiboneyandinformedGeneralYoungandColonelWoodthatonthefollowingmorninghewouldattacktheSpanishpositionatGuasimas.IthasbeenstatedthatatGuasimas, the Rough Riders were trapped in anambush,but,astheplanwasdiscussedwhileIwaspresent,Iknowthatsofarfromanyones running into an ambush, every one of the officers concernedhadafullknowledgeofwherehewouldfindtheenemy,andwhathewastodowhenhefoundhim.Thatnightnooneslept,foruntiltwoo’clockinthemorning,troopswerestillbeing disembarked in the surf, and two ships of war had their searchlightsturnedonthelanding-place,andmadeSiboneyaslightasaball-room.Backofthesearchlightswasanoceanwhitewithmoonlight,andontheshoreredcamp-fires,atwhichthehalf-drownedtroopsweredryingtheiruniforms,andtheRoughRiders,whohadjustmarchedinfromBaiquiri,werecookingalatesupper,orearlybreakfastofcoffeeandbacon.BelowtheformerhomeoftheSpanishcomandante,whichGeneralWheelerhadmadehishead-quarters,laythecampoftheRoughRiders,andthroughitCubanofficerswereridingtheirhalf-starvedponies,andscatteringtheashesofthecamp-fires.Belowthemwasthebeachandtheroaringsurf,inwhichathousandorsonakedmenwereassistingandimpedingtheprogressshorewardoftheircomrades,inpontoonsandshoreboats,whichwerebeinghurledatthebeachlikesledsdownawaterchute.Itwasoneof themostweirdand remarkablescenesof thewar,probablyofanywar.Anarmywasbeinglandedonanenemy’scoastatthedeadofnight,butwiththesamecheersandshrieksandlaughterthatrisefromthebathersatConeyIslandonahotSunday.Itwasapandemoniumofnoises.Themenstillto be landed from the “prison hulks,” as they called the transports, weresinging in chorus, themenalreadyon shoreweredancingnakedaround thecamp-firesonthebeach,orshoutingwithdelightastheyplungedintothefirstbath that had offered in seven days, and those in the launches as theywerepitched head-first at the soil of Cuba, signalized their arrival by howls oftriumph.Oneithersideroseblackoverhangingridges,inthelowlandbetweenwere white tents and burning fires, and from the ocean came the blazing,dazzlingeyesofthesearch-lightsshamingthequietmoonlight.Afterthreehours’troubledsleepinthistumulttheRoughRidersleftcampatfiveinthemorning.Withtheexceptionofhalfadozenofficerstheyweredismounted,andcarriedtheirblanketrolls,haversacks,ammunition,andcarbines.GeneralYounghadalreadystartedtowardGuasimas the First andTenthdismountedCavalry,andaccordingtotheagreementofthenightbeforehad taken the eastern trail to our right,while theRoughRiders climbed the

steepridgeaboveSiboneyandstartedtowardtherendezvousalongthetrailtothewest,whichwasonhighgroundandahalfmiletoamiledistantfromthetrailalongwhichGeneralYoungandhisregularsweremarching.Therewasavalleybetweenus,andthebushesweresothickonbothsidesofourtrailthatitwasnotpossibleatanytime,untilwemetatGuasimas, to distinguish theothercolumn.As soon as the Rough Riders had reached the top of the ridge, not twentyminutes after they had left camp, which was the first opportunity thatpresented itself, ColonelWood orderedCaptainCapron to proceedwith histroopinfrontofthecolumnasanadvanceguard,andtochoosea“point”offivemenskilledasscoutsandtrailers.StillinadvanceoftheseheplacedtwoCuban scouts.The column then continued along the trail in single file. TheCubanswereatadistanceoftwohundredandfiftyyards;the“point”offivepickedmenunderSergeantByrneandduty-SergeantFishfollowedthematadistanceofahundredyards,andthencameCapron’stroopofsixtymenstrungout in single file. No flankers were placed for the reason that the denseundergrowth and the tangle of vines that stretched from the branches of thetreestothebushesbelowmadeitaphysicalimpossibilityformanorbeasttomoveforwardexceptalongthesingletrail.ColonelWoodrodeattheheadofthecolumn,followedbytworegulararmyofficerswhoweremembersofGeneralWheeler’sstaff,aCubanofficer,andLieutenant-ColonelRoosevelt.Theyrodeslowlyinconsiderationofthetroopersonfoot,whounderacruellyhotsuncarriedheavyburdens.Tothosewhodidnothavetowalk,itwasnotunlikeahuntingexcursioninourWest;thescenerywasbeautifulandtheviewdownthevalleyoneofluxuriantpeace.RoosevelthadneverbeeninthetropicsandCaptainMcCormickandIweretalkingbackathimoverourshouldersandateachother,pointingoutunfamiliartreesandbirds.Rooseveltthoughtitlookedlikeagooddeercountry,asitoncewas;itremindedMcCormickofSouthernCalifornia;itlookedtomelikethetrailsinCentralAmerica.Weadvanced,talkinginthatfashionandinhighspirits,andcongratulatingourselvesinbeingshutofthetransportandonbreathingfinemountainairagain,andonthefactthatwewereonhorseback.Weagreeditwasimpossibletoappreciatethatwewerereallyatwarthatwewereintheenemy’scountry.Wehadbeenridinginthispleasantfashionforanhourandahalfwithbriefhaltsforrest,whenWoodstoppedtheheadofthecolumn,androdedownthetrailtomeetCapron,whowascomingback.Woodreturnedimmediately,leadinghishorse,andsaidtoRoosevelt:“Passthewordbacktokeepsilenceintheranks.”Theplaceatwhichwehadhaltedwaswherethetrailnarrowed,andproceeded

sharplydownward.Therewasononesideofitastoutbarbed-wirefenceoffivestrands.Bysomefortunateaccidentthisfencehadbeencutjustwheretheheadofthecolumnhalted.Ontheleftofthetrailitshutofffieldsofhighgrassblockedateveryfiftyyardswithgreatbarricadesofundergrowthandtangledtreesandchapparal.Ontheothersideofthetrailtherewasnotafootof free ground; the bushes seemed absolutely impenetrable, as indeed theywerelaterfoundtobe.Whenwehalted,themensatdownbesidethetrailandchewedthelongbladesofgrass,orfannedtheairwiththeirhats.Theyhadnoknowledgeofthesituationsuchastheirleaderspossessed,andtheironlyemotionwasoneofsatisfactionatthechancethehaltgavethemtorestandtoshifttheirpacks.WoodagainwalkeddownthetrailwithCapronanddisappeared,andoneoftheofficersinformedusthatthescoutshadseentheoutpostsoftheenemy.ItdidnotseemreasonablethattheSpaniards,whohadfailedtoattackuswhenwelandedatBaiquiri,wouldopposeusuntiltheycoulddosoinforce,so,personally,IdoubtedthattherewereanySpaniardsnearerthanSantiago.Butwetiedourhorsestothewirefence,andCapron’stroopkneltwithcarbinesatthe“Ready,”peeringintothebushes.Wemusthavewaitedthere,whileWoodreconnoitred,forovertenminutes.Thenhereturned,andbegandeployinghistroopsoutateithersideofthetrail.Capronhesentondownthetrailitself.GTroopwasorderedtobeatintothebushesontheright,andKandAweresentovertheridgeonwhichwestooddownintothehollowtoconnectwithGeneralYoung’scolumnontheoppositesideofthevalley.FandETroopsweredeployedinskirmish-lineontheothersideofthewirefence.Woodhaddiscoveredtheenemyafewhundredyardsfromwhereheexpectedtofindhim,andsofarfrombeing“surprised,”hehadtime,asIhavejustdescribed,togetfiveofhistroopsintopositionbeforeashotwasfired.Thefiring,whenitcame,startedsuddenlyonourright.Itsoundedsoclosethatstill believingwewereactingonafalsealarm,andthattherewerenoSpaniardsaheadofusIguesseditwasCapron’smenfiringatrandomtodisclosetheenemy’sposition.IranafterGTroopunderCaptainLlewellyn,andfoundthembreakingtheirwaythroughthebushesinthedirectionfromwhichthevolleyscame.Itwaslikeforcingthewallsofamaze.Ifeachtrooperhadnotkeptintouchwiththemanoneitherhandhewouldhavebeenlostinthethicket.Atonemomenttheunderbrushseemedswarmingwithourmen,andthenext,exceptthatyouheardthetwigsbreaking,andheavybreathingoracrashasavinepulledsomeonedown,therewasnotasignofahumanbeinganywhere.Inafewminuteswebrokethroughintoalittleopenplaceinfrontofadarkcurtainofvines,andthemenfellononekneeandbeganreturningthefirethatcamefromit.Theenemy’sfirewasexceedinglyheavy,andhisaimwasexcellent.Wesaw

nothing of the Spaniards, except a few on the ridge across the valley. Ihappenedtobetheonlyonepresentwithfieldglasses,andwhenIdiscoveredthisforceontheridge,andhadmadesure,bythecockadesintheirsombreros,that theywere Spaniards and not Cubans, I showed them to Roosevelt. Hecalculatedtheywerefivehundredyardsfromus,andorderedthementofireon them at that range. Through the two hours of fighting that followed,althoughmenwerefallingallaroundus,theSpaniardsontheridgeweretheonly ones that many of us saw. But the fire against us was not more thaneightyyardsaway,andsohotthatourmencouldonlylieflatinthegrassandreturn it in that position. It was at thismoment that ourmen believed theywerebeingattackedbyCapron’stroop,whichtheyimaginedmusthaveswungtotheright,andhavinglostitsbearingsandhearingthemadvancingthroughthe underbrush, hadmistaken them for the enemy.They accordingly ceasedfiringandbeganshoutinginordertowarnCapronthathewasshootingathisfriends. This is the foundation for the statement that the Rough Riders hadfiredoneachother,whichtheydidnotdothenoratanyothertime.LaterweexaminedtherelativepositionofthetrailwhichCapronheld,andthepositionofGTroop,andtheywereatrightanglestooneanother.Caproncouldnotpossiblyhavefiredintousatanytime,unlesshehadturneddirectlyaroundinhistracksandaimeduptheverytrailhehadjustdescended.Advancing,hecouldnomorehavehitusthanhecouldhaveseenusoutoftheback of his head. When we found many hundred spent cartridges of theSpaniardsahundredyards in frontofGTroop’sposition, thequestionas towhohadfiredonuswasanswered.Itwasanexceedinglyhotcorner.Thewholetroopwasgatheredinthelittleopenplaceblockedbythenetworkofgrape-vinesandtangledbushesbeforeit.Theycouldnotseetwentyfeetonthreesidesofthem,butontherighthandlaythevalley,andacrossitcamethesoundofYoung’sbrigade, who wereapparentlyheavilyengaged.Theenemy’sfirewassoclosethatthemencouldnothearthewordofcommand,andCaptainLlewellynandLieutenantGreenway,unabletogettheirattention,ranamongthem,battingthemwiththeirsombrerostomakethemceasefiring.Lieutenant-ColonelRooseveltranupjustthen,bringingwithhimLieutenantWoodburyKaneandtentroopersfromKTroop.RooseveltlaydowninthegrassbesideLlewellynandconsultedwithhimeagerly.Kanewassmilingwiththecharmingcontentofaperfectlyhappyman.WhenCaptainLlewellyntoldhimhismenwerenotneeded,andtorejoinhistroop,heledhisdetailovertheedgeofthehillonwhichwelay.Ashedisappearedbelowthecresthedidnotstooptoavoidthebullets,butwalkederect,stillsmiling.Rooseveltpointedoutthatitwasimpossibletoadvancefartheronaccountofthenetworkofwildgrape-vinesthatmaskedtheSpaniardsfromus,andthatwemustcrossthetrailandmake

totheleft.TheshoutsthemenhadraisedtowarnCapronhadestablishedourpositiontotheenemy,andthefiringwasnowfearfullyaccurate.SergeantRussell,whoinhisdayhadbeenacolonelonagovernor’sstaff,waskilled,andtheothersergeantwasshotthroughthewrist.Inthespaceofthreeminutesninemenwerelyingontheirbackshelpless.Beforewegotaway,everythirdmanwaskilled,orwounded.Wedrewoffslowlytotheleft,draggingthewoundedwithus.Owingtothelowaimoftheenemy,wewereforcedtomoveonourkneesandcrawl.Eventhenmenwerehit.Onemannearmewasshotthroughthehead.Returninglatertolocatethebodyandidentifyhim,Ifoundthatthebuzzardshadtornoffhislipsandhiseyes.Thismutilationbythesehideousbirdswas,withoutdoubt,whatAdmiralSampsonmistookfortheworkoftheSpaniards,whenthebodiesofthemarinesatGuantanamowerefounddisfigured.KTroopmeantimehaddeployedintothevalleyunderthefirefromtheenemyontheridge.IthadbeenorderedtoestablishcommunicationwithGeneralYoung’scolumn,andwhileadvancingandfiringontheridge,CaptainJenkinssenttheguidonbearerbacktoclimbthehillandwavehisredandwhitebannerwhereYoung’smencouldseeit.Theguidonbearer hadonce run forCongress on thegold ticket inArizona,and,assomeonesaid,wasnaturallythemanwhoshouldhavebeenselectedforaforlornhope.Hisflagbroughthiminstantlyunderaheavyfire,buthecontinuedwavingituntiltheTenthCavalryontheothersideofthevalleyanswered,andthetwocolumnswereconnectedbyaskirmish-linecomposedofKTroopandA,underCaptain“Bucky”O’Neill.GTroopmeanwhilehadhurriedovertotheleft,andpassingthroughtheopeninginthewirefencehadspreadoutintoopenorder.ItfolloweddownafterCaptainLuna’stroopandDandETroops,whichwerewellalreadyinadvance.Rooseveltranforwardandtookcommandoftheextremeleftofthisline.Woodwaswalkingupanddownalongit,leadinghishorse,whichhethoughtmightbeofuseincasehehadtomovequicklytoalterhisoriginalformation.Hisplan,atpresent,wastospreadouthismensothattheywouldjoinYoungontheright,andontheleftswingarounduntiltheyflankedtheenemy.KandATroopshadalreadysucceededinjoininghandswithYoung’scolumnacrossthevalley,andastheywerecapableoftakingcareofthemselves,Woodwasbendinghiseffortstokeephisremainingfourcompaniesinastraightlineandrevolvingthemaroundtheenemy’s“end.”Itwasinnowayaneasythingtodo.Themenwereattimeswhollyhiddenfromeachother,andfromhim;probablyatnoonetimedidheseemorethantwoofhistroopstogether.Itwasonlybythefiringthathecouldtellwherehismenlay,andthattheywerealwaysadvancing.The advances were made in quick, desperate rushessometimesthegroundgainedwasnomorethanamancoversinslidingforabase.Atothertimes

halfatroopwouldriseandraceforwardandthenburrowdeepinthehotgrassandfire.Onthissideofthelinetherewasanoccasionalglimpseoftheenemy.Butforagreatpartofthetimethemenshotattheplacesfromwheretheenemy’sfireseemedtocome,aiminglowandansweringinsteadyvolleys.Thefiredisciplinewasexcellent.TheprophetsofeviloftheTampaBayHotelhadforetoldthatthecowboyswouldshootastheychose,and,inthefield,wouldactindependentlyoftheirofficers.Asitturnedout,thecowboysweretheverymenwhowaitedmostpatientlyfortheofficerstogivethewordofcommand.Atalltimesthemovementwaswithoutrest,breathlessandfierce,likeacane-rush,orastreetfight.After the first three minutes everyman had stripped as though for a wrestling match, throwing off all hisimpedimenta but his cartridge-belt and canteen.Eventhenthesunhandicappedtheirstrengthcruelly.Theenemywashiddenintheshadeofthejungle,whilethey,foreverythickettheygained,hadtofightintheopen,crawlingthroughgrasswhichwasashotasasteambath,andwiththeirfleshandclothingtornbythornsandthesword-likebladeoftheSpanish“bayonet.”Theglareofthesunwasfullintheireyesandasfierceasalime-light.WhenG Troop passed on across the trail to the left I stopped at the placewherethecolumnhadfirsthaltedithadbeenconvertedintoadressingstationandthewoundedofGTroopwereleftthereinthecareofthehospitalstewards.Atall,gauntyoungmanwithacrossonhisarmwasjustcomingbackupthetrail.Hisheadwasbent,andbysomesurgeon’strickhewascarryingawoundedmanmuchheavierthanhimselfacrosshisshoulders.AsIsteppedoutofthetrailheraisedhishead,andsmiledandnodded,andleftmewonderingwhereIhadseenhimbefore,smilinginthesamecheery,confidentwayandmovinginthatsameposition.Iknewitcouldnothavebeenunderthesameconditions,andyethewascertainlyassociatedwithanothertimeofexcitementandrushandheat.ThenIrememberedhim.Asnowhehadbeencoveredwithbloodanddirtandperspiration,butthenheworeacanvasjacketandthemanhecarriedonhisshoulderswastryingtoholdhimbackfromawhite-washedline.AndIrecognizedtheyoungdoctor,withthebloodbathinghisbreeches,as“Bob”Church,ofPrinceton.Thatwasonlyoneoffourbadlywoundedmenhecarriedthatdayonhisshouldersoverahalf-mileoftrailthatstretchedfromthefiring-linebacktothedressingstationandunderanunceasingfire.Astheseniorsurgeonwasabsenthehadchiefresponsibilitythatdayforallthewounded,andthatsofewofthemdiedisgreatlyduetothisyoungmanwhowentdownintothefiring-lineandpulledthemfromit,andborethemoutofdanger.Thecomicparagrapherswhowrote of themembersoftheKnickerbockerClubandthecollegeswellsoftheRoughRidersandoftheir imaginary valets and golf clubs, should, in decency, since the fight atGuasimasapologize.Forthesamespiritthatoncesentthesemendownawhite-washedfieldagainsttheiropponents’rushlinewasthespiritthatsent

Church,Channing,Devereux,Ronalds,Wrenn,Cash,Bull,Lamed,Goodrich,Greenway, Dudley Dean, and a dozen others through the high hot grass atGuasimas, not shouting, as their friends the cowboys did, but eachwith hismouthtightlyshut,withhiseyesontheball,andmovinginobediencetothecaptain’ssignals.Judgingfromthesound,ourfiring-linenowseemedtobehalfamileinadvanceoftheplacewheretheheadofthecolumnhadfirsthalted.ThisshowedthattheSpaniardshadbeendrivenbackatleastthreehundredyardsfromtheiroriginalposition.Itwasimpossibletoseeanyofourmeninthefield,soIrandownthetrailwiththeideathatitwouldleadmebacktothetroopIhadleftwhenIhadstoppedatthedressingstation.Thewalkdownthattrailpresentedoneofthemostgrewsomepicturesofthewar.Itnarrowedasitdescended;itwasforthatreasontheenemyhadselectedthatpartofitfortheattack,andthevinesandbushesinterlacedsocloselyaboveitthatthesuncouldnotcomethrough.The rocks on either sidewere spatteredwith blood and the rank grass wasmatted with it. Blanket rolls, haversacks, carbines, and canteens had beenabandonedallalongitslength.Itlookedasthougharetreatingarmyhadfledalongit,ratherthanthatonetroophadfoughtitswaythroughittothefront.Exceptfortheclatteroftheland-crabs,thosehideousorchid-coloredmonstersthathaunttheplacesofthedead,andthewhistlingofthebulletsinthetrees,theplacewasassilentasagrave.Forthewoundedlyingalongitslengthwereasstillasthedeadbesidethem.Thenoiseoftheloosestonesrollingundermyfeetbroughtahospitalstewardoutofthebrush,andhecalledafterme:“LieutenantThomasisbadlywoundedinhere,andwecan’tmovehim.Wewanttocarryhimoutofthesunsomeplace,wherethereisshadeandabreeze.”ThomaswasthefirstlieutenantofCapron’stroop.Heisayoungman,largeandpowerfullybuilt.Hewasshotthroughthelegjustbelowthetrunk,andIfoundhimlyingonablankethalfnakedandcoveredwithblood,andwithhislegboundintourniquetsmadeoftwigsandpocket-handkerchiefs.Itgaveoneathrillofaweandwondertoseehowthesecowboysurgeons,withastickthatonewouldusetolightapipeandwiththegaudy‘kerchiefstheyhadtakenfromtheirnecks,wereholdingdeathatbay.Theyoungofficerwasingreatpainandtossingandravingwildly.Whenwegatheredupthecornersofhisblanketandliftedhim,hetriedtositupright,andcriedout,“You’retakingmetothefront,aren’tyou?Yousaidyouwould.They’vekilledmycaptaindoyouunderstand?They’vekilledCaptainCapron.The---Mexicans!They’vekilledmycaptain.”Thetroopersassuredhimtheywerecarryinghimtothefiring-line,buthewasnotsatisfied.We stumbledover the stones andvines, bumpinghiswounded

bodyagainstthegroundandleavingablackstreakinthegrassbehindus,butitseemedtohurtusmorethanitdidhim,forhesatupagainclutchingatusimploringlywithhisbloodyhands.“ForGod’ssake,takemetothefront,”hebegged.“Doyouhear?Iorderyou;damnyou,IorderWemust give them hell; do you hear? wemustgivethemhell.They’vekilledCapron.They’vekilledmycaptain.”The lossofbloodat lastmercifully silencedhim,andwhenwehad reachedthetrailhehadfaintedandIleftthemkneelingaroundhim,theirgraveboyishfacesfilledwithsympathyandconcern.OnlyfiftyfeetfromhimandfartherdownthetrailIpassedhiscaptain,withhisbodyproppedagainstChurch’skneeandwithhisheadfallenonthesurgeon’sshoulder.Capronwasalwaysahandsome,soldierlylookingmansome said that he was themost soldierly looking of any of the youngofficersinthearmyandasIsawhimthendeathhadgivenhimagreatdignityandnobleness.Hewasonlytwenty-eightyearsold,theagewhenlifehasjustbegun,butherestedhisheadonthesurgeon’sshoulderlikeamanwhoknewhewasalreadythroughwithitandthat,thoughtheymightpeckandmendatthebody,hehadreceivedhisfinalorders.Hisbreastandshoulderswerebare,andasthesurgeoncutthetunicfromhimthesightofhisgreatchestandtheskin,aswhiteasagirl’s,andtheblackopenwoundagainstitmadetheyellowstripesandthebrassinsigniaonthetunic,strangelymeanandtawdry.Fiftyyardsfartheron,aroundaturninthetrail,behindarock,aboywaslyingwith a bullet wound between his eyes. His chest was heaving with short,hoarsenoiseswhichIguessedwereduetosomemuscularactionentirely,andthathewasvirtuallydead.Iliftedhimandgavehimsomewater,butitwouldnot pass through his fixed teeth. In the pocket of his blouse was a NewTestamentwiththenameFielderDawson,Mo.,scribbledinitinpencil.WhileIwaswritingitdownforidentification,aboyasyoungashimselfcamefrombehindmedownthetrail.“Itisnouse,”hesaid;“thesurgeonhasseenhim;hesaysheisjustthesameasdead.Heismybunkie;weonlymettwoweeksagoatSanAntonio;butheandmehadgottobesuchgoodfriendsButthere’snothingIcandonow.”Hethrewhimselfdownontherockbesidehisbunkie, who was still breathingwiththathoarseinhumanrattle,andIleftthem,theonewhohadbeensparedlookingdownhelplesslywiththetearscreepingacrosshischeeks.Thefiringwasquiteclosenow,andthetrailwasnolongerfilledwithblanketrollsandhaversacks,nordidpitiful,prostratefigureslieinwaitbehindeachrock.IguessedthismustmeanthatInowwaswellinadvanceofthefarthest

pointtowhichCapron’stroophadmoved,andIwasrunningforwardfeelingconfidentthatImustbecloseonourmen,whenIsawthebodyofasergeantblockingthetrailandstretchedatfulllengthacrossit.Itspositionwasahundredyardsinadvanceofthatofanyoftheothersit was apparentlythebodyofthefirstmankilled.Afterdeaththebodiesofsomemenseemtoshrinkalmostinstantlywithinthemselves;theybecomelimpandshapeless,andtheiruniformshanguponthemstrangely.Butthisman,whowasagiantinlife,remainedagiantindeathhisveryattitudewasoneofattack;hisfistswereclinched,hisjawset,andhiseyes,whichwerestillhuman,seemedfixedwithresolve.Hewasdead,buthewasnotdefeated.AndsoHamiltonFishdiedashehadliveddefiantly,runningintotheveryfaceoftheenemy,standingsquarelyuprightonhislegsinsteadofcrouching,astheotherscalledtohimtodo,untilhefelllikeacolumnacrossthetrail.“Godgives,”wasthemottoonthewatchItookfromhisblouse,andGodcouldnothavegivenhimanoblerend; todie, in the fore-frontof the first fightof thewar,quickly,painlessly,withabulletthroughtheheart,withhisregimentbehindhim,andfacingtheenemiesofhiscountry.Thelineatthistimewasdividedbythetrailintotwowings.Therightwing,composedofKandATroops,wasadvancingthroughthevalley,returningthefirefromtheridgeasitdidso,andtheleftwing,whichwasmuchthelongerofthetwo,wasswingingaroundontheenemy’srightflank,withitsownrightrestingonthebarbed-wirefence.Iborrowedacarbinefromawoundedman,andjoinedtheremnantofLTroopwhichwasclosetothetrail.ThistroopwasthencommandedbySecondLieutenantDay,whoonaccountofhisconductthatmorningandatthebattleofSanJuanlater,whenhewasshotthroughthearm,waspromotedtobecaptainofLTroop,or,asitwaslaterofficiallydesignated,Capron’stroop.Hewaswalkingupanddownthelineasunconcernedlyasthoughwewereattargetpractice,andanIrishsergeant,Byrne,wasassistinghimbykeepingupacontinuousflowofcommentsandcriticismsthatshowedthekeenestenjoymentofthesituation.ByrnewastheonlymanInoticedwhoseemedtoregardthefightasinanywayhumorous.ForatGuasimas,noonehadtimetobeflippant,ortoexhibitanysignsofbraggadocio.Itwasforallofthem,fromthemomentitstarted,throughthehot,exhaustinghourandahalfthatitlasted,amostseriousproposition.Theconditionswereexceptional.Themenhadmadeanightmarchtheeveningbefore,hadbeengivenbutthreehours’troubledsleeponthewetsand,andhadthenbeenmarchedinfullequipmentuphillandunderacruellyhotsun,directlyintoaction.And eighty per cent. ofthemhadneverbeforebeenunderfire.NorhadonemanintheregimenteverfiredaKrag-JorgensencarbineuntilhefireditataSpaniard,fortheirarmshadbeenissuedtothemsosoonbeforesailingthattheyhadonlydrilledwiththemwithout

usingcartridges.Tothishandicapwasalsoaddedthenatureofthegroundandthefactthatourmencouldnotseetheiropponents.Theirownmenfellorrolledoveroneveryside,shotdownbyaninvisibleenemy,withnooneuponwhomtheycouldretaliate,withnosignthattheattackmightnotgoonindefinitely.Yettheyneveroncetookastepbackward,butadvancedgrimly,cleaningabushorthicketofitsoccupantsbeforechargingit,andsecuringitscoverforthemselves,andansweringeachvolleywithonethatsoundedlikeanechoofthefirst.Themenwerepantingforbreath;thesweatransoreadilyintotheireyesthattheycouldnotseethesightsoftheirguns;theirlimbsunusedtosuchexertionaftersevendaysofcrampedidlenessonthetroop-ship,trembledwithweaknessandthesunblindedanddazzledthem;buttimeaftertimetheyroseandstaggeredforwardthroughthehighgrass,orbeattheirwaywiththeircarbinesagainstthetangleofvinesandcreepers.Amileandahalfofterritorywasgainedfootbyfootinthisfashion,thethreeSpanishpositionscarriedinthatdistance being marked by the thousands of Mausercartridgesthatlayshiningandglitteringinthegrassandbehindthebarricadesofbushes.Butthisdistancehadnotbeengainedwithoutmanylosses,foreveryoneintheregimentwasengaged.Eventhosewho,onaccountoftheheat,haddroppedoutalongthetrail,assoonasthesoundofthefightreachedthem,camelimpingtothefrontandplungedintothefiring-line.Itwastheonlyplacetheycouldgotherewasnootherline.WiththeexceptionofChurch’sdressingstationanditswoundedtherewerenoreserves.Among the first tobewoundedwas thecorrespondent,EdwardMarshall,ofthe NewYork Journal, whowas on the firing-line to the left. He was shotthrough the body near the spine, andwhen I saw him hewas suffering themost terrible agonies, and passing through a succession of convulsions. Henevertheless,inhisbriefmomentsofcomparativepeace,borehimselfwiththeutmostcalm,andwassomuchasoldiertodutythathecontinuedwritinghisaccount of the fight until the fight itself was ended. His courage was theadmiration of all the troopers, and he was highly commended by ColonelWoodintheofficialaccountoftheengagement.WoundedRoughRiderscomingoverthehillatSiboney.HeadofcolumnofSecondInfantrygoingtosupporttheRoughRiders,JunethNothing sowell illustratedhowdesperately eachmanwasneeded, andhowlittlewashisdesiretowithdraw,asthefactthatthewoundedlaywheretheyfelluntilthehospitalstewardsfoundthem.Theircomradesdidnotusethemasanexcusetogotoleavethefiring-line.Ihavewatchedotherfights,wherethemen engaged were quite willing to unselfishly bear the wounded from thezoneofdanger.Thefighthadnowlastedanhour,andthelinehadreachedamoreopen

country,withaslightinclineupwardtowardawood,ontheedgeofwhichwasaruinedhouse.Thishousewasaformerdistilleryforaguardiente,andwasnowoccupiedinforcebytheenemy.Lieutenant-ColonelRooseveltonthefarleftwasmovinguphismenwiththeintentionoftakingthishouseontheflank;Wood,whowasallovertheline,hadthesameobjectivepointinhismind.Thetroopcommandershadageneralideathatthedistillerywasthekeytotheenemy’sposition,andwereallworkinginthatdirection.ItwasextremelydifficultforWoodandRoosevelttocommunicatewiththecaptains,andafterthefirstgeneralordershadbeengiventhemtheyrelieduponthelatter’sintelligencetopullthemthrough.IdonotsupposeWood,outofthefivehundredengaged,sawmorethanthirtyofhismenatanyonetime.Whenhehadpassedonetroop,exceptforthenoiseofitsvolleyfiring,itwasimmediatelylosttohiminthebrush,anditwassowiththenext.Still,soexcellentwastheintelligenceoftheofficers,andsoreadythespiritofthemen,thattheykeptanalmostperfectalignment,aswasshownwhenthefinalordercametochargeintheopenfields.Theadvanceupontheruinedbuildingwasmadeinstubborn,shortrushes,sometimesinsilence,andsometimesfiringasweran.Theordertofireatwillwasseldomgiven,themenwaitingpatientlyfortheofficers’signal,andthenansweringinvolleys.SomeofthemenwhoweretwiceDay’sagebeggedhimtoletthemtaketheenemy’simpromptufortontherun,butheansweredthemtolerantlylikespoiledchildren,andheldthemdownuntiltherewasalullintheenemy’sfire,whenhewouldleadthemforward,alwaystakingtheadvancehimself.Bythewaytheymadetheserushes,itwaseasytotellwhichmenwereusedtohuntingbiggameintheWestandwhichwerenot.TheEasternmenbrokeattheword,andranforthecovertheyweredirectedtotakelikementryingtogetoutoftherain,andfellpantingontheirfaces,whiletheWesterntrappersandhuntersslippedandwriggledthroughthegrasslikeIndians;dodgingfromtreetrunktotreetrunk,andfromonebushtoanother.Theyfellintolineatthesametimewiththeothers,butwhiledoingsotheyhadnotonceexposedthemselves.Someoftheescapeswerelittleshortofmiraculous.Themanonmyright,ChampneysMarshall,ofWashington,hadonebulletpassthroughhissleeve,andanotherpassthroughhisshirt,whereitwaspulledclosetohisspine.Theholeswheretheballenteredandwentoutagainwereclearlycut.Anotherman’sskinwasslightlyburnedbythreebulletsinthreedistinctlines,asthoughithadbeentouchedforaninstantbythelightedendofacigar.Greenwaywasshotthroughthisshirtacrossthebreast,andRooseveltwassoclosetoonebullet,whenitstruckatree,thatitfilledhiseyesandearswithtinysplinters.MajorBrodieandLieutenantThomaswerebothwoundedwithinafewfeetofColonelWood,andhiscolor-sergeant,Wright,whofollowedcloseathisheels,wasclippedthreetimesintheheadandneck,andfourbulletspassedthroughthefoldsoftheflaghecarried.Onetrooper,

Rowland,ofDeming,wasshotthroughthelowerribs;hewasorderedbyRoosevelttofallbacktothedressingstation,butthereChurchtoldhimtherewasnothinghecoulddoforhimthen,anddirectedhimtositdownuntilhecouldbetakentothehospitalatSiboney. Rowland sat still for a short time,andthenremarkedrestlessly,“Idon’tseemtobedoingmuchgoodhere,”andpickinguphiscarbine,returnedtothefiring-line.ThereRooseveltfoundhim.“IthoughtIorderedyoutotherear,”hedemanded.“Yes, sir, youdid,”Rowland said, “but there didn’t seem to bemuchdoingbackthere.”AfterthefighthewassenttoSiboneywiththerestofthewounded,buttwodayslaterheappearedincamp.HehadmarchedfromSiboney, a distance ofsixmiles,anduphillalltheway,carryinghiscarbine,canteen,andcartridge-belt.“I thought you were in hospital,” Wood said. “I was,” Rowland answeredsheepishly,“butIdidn’tseemtobedoinganygoodthere.”Theygavehimupashopeless,andhecontinuedhisdutiesandwentintothefightoftheSanJuanhillswiththeholestillthroughhisribs.AnothercowboynamedHeffner,whenshotthroughthebody,askedtobeproppedupagainstatreewithhiscanteenandcartridge-beltbesidehim,andthelasthistroopsawofhimhewasseatedalonegrimlyfiringover theirheads in thedirectionoftheenemy.EarlyinthefightIcameuponChurchattendingtoayoungcowboy,whowasshot through thechest.Theentrance tohiswoundwassosmall thatChurchcouldnotinsertenoughofthegauzepackingtostoptheflowofblood.“I’mafraid I’llhave tomake thishole larger,”hesaid to theboy,“oryou’llbleedtodeath.”“Allright,”thetrooperanswered,“Iguessyouknowyourbusiness.”TheboystretchedoutonhisbackandlayperfectlyquietwhileChurch,withapairofcurved scissors, cut away the edges of the wound. His patient neitherwhimpered nor swore, but stared up at the sun in silence. The bulletswerefallingoneveryside,andtheoperationwasahastyone,butthetroopermadeno comment until Church said, “We’d better get out of this; can you standbeingcarried?”“Doyouthinkyoucancarryme?”thetrooperasked.“Yes.”

“Well,”exclaimedtheboyadmiringly,“youcertainlyknowyourbusiness!”Another of the Rough Riders was brought to the dressing station with ashatteredankle,andChurch,afterbandagingit,gavehimhischoiceofridingdowntoSiboneyonamule,orofbeingcarried,adaylater,onalitter.“Ifyouthinkyoucanmanagetoridethemulewiththatbrokenfoot,”hesaid,“youcanstartatonce,butifyouwaituntil to-morrow,whenIcansparethemen,youcanbecarriedalltheway.”Thecowboypreferredtostartatonce,sosixhospitalstewardsliftedhimanddroppedhimonthemule,andintoahugeMexicansaddle.Hestuckhiswoundedankle intoonestirrup,andhisuntouchedoneinto theother,andgatheredupthereins.“Does itpainyou?Canyoustand it?”Churchaskedanxiously.Thecowboyturnedandsmileddownuponhimwithamuseddisdain.“Standthis?”hecried.“Why,thisisjustlikegettingmoneyfromhome.”Towardthelast,thefiringfromtheenemysoundedlessnear,andthebulletspassedmuchhigher.Roosevelt,whohadpickedupacarbineandwasfiringtogivethedirectiontotheothers,determineduponacharge.Wood,attheotherendoftheline,decidedatthesametimeuponthesamemanoeuvre. It wascalled“Wood’sbluff”afterward,forhehadnothingtobackitwith;whiletothe enemy it looked as though hiswhole forcewas but the skirmish-line inadvanceofaregiment.TheSpaniardsnaturallycouldnotbelievethatthisthinlinewhichsuddenlybrokeoutofthebushesandfrombehindtreesandcamecheeringoutintothehotsunlightwastheentirefightingforceagainstit.Theysupposed the regimentwascomingcloseon itsheels,andasSpanish troopshate being rushed as a cat hateswater, they fired a few parting volleys andbrokeandran.Thecheeringhadthesameinvigoratingeffectonourownsideasacoldshower;itwaswhatfirsttoldhalfthemenwheretheotherhalfwere,anditmadeeveryindividualmanfeelbetter.Asweknewitwasonlyabluff,the first cheer was wavering, but the sound of our own voices was socomfortingthatthesecondcheerwasahowloftriumph.Asitwas,theSpaniardsthoughttheRoughRidershadalreadydisregardedalltherulesofwar.“Whenwe firedavolley,”oneof theprisoners said later,“insteadof fallingbacktheycameforward.Thatisnotthewaytofight,tocomecloserateveryvolley.”Andso,wheninsteadofretreatingoneachvolley,theRoughRidersrushed at them, cheering and filling the hot airwithwild cowboy yells, the

dismayed enemy retreated uponSantiago,where he announced he had beenattackedbytheentireAmericanarmy.OneoftheresidentsofSantiagoaskedoneofthesoldiersifthoseAmericansfoughtwell.“Well!”hereplied,“theytriedtocatchuswiththeirhands!”I have not attempted to give any account of General Young’s fight on ourright,whichwasequallydesperate,and,owingtothecourageofthecoloredtroopsof theTenth in storminga ridge, equallyworthyofpraise.But it hasseemedbetternottotryandtellofanythingIdidnotsee,buttolimitmyselftotheworkof theRoughRiders, towhom,after all, thevictorywasdue, as itwasowingtoColonelWood’scharge,whichtooktheSpaniardsinflank,thatGeneralWheelerandGeneralYoungwereabletoadvance,theirownstubbornattackinfronthavingfailedtodislodgetheenemyfromhisrifle-pits.According to the statement of the enemy, who had every reason not toexaggeratethesizeofhisownforce,,Spaniardswereengagedinthisaction.TheRoughRidersnumbered ,andGeneralYoung’sforcenumbered.TheAmericantroopsaccordinglyattackedaforceoverfourtimestheirownnumberintrenchedbehindrifle-pitsandbushesinamountainpass.InspiteofthesmokelesspowderusedbytheSpaniards,whichhidtheirposition,theRoughRidersroutedthemoutofit,anddrovethembackfromthreedifferentbarricadesuntiltheymadetheirlaststandintheruineddistillery,whencetheyfinallydrovethembyassault.TheeagerspiritinwhichthiswasaccomplishedisbestdescribedintheSpanishsoldier’sanswertotheinquiringcivilian,“Theytriedtocatchuswiththeirhands.”TheRoughRidersshouldadoptitastheirmotto.

IITHEBATTLEOFSANJUANHILL

After theGuasimas fight on June , the armywas advanced along the singletrail which leads from SiboneyonthecoasttoSantiago.Twostreamsofexcellentwaterrunparallelwiththistrailforshortdistances,andsomeeightmilesfromthecoastcrosseditintwoplaces.Ouroutpostswerestationedatthefirstofthesefords,theCubanoutpostsamileandahalffartheronatthefordnearerSantiago,wherethestreammadeasharpturnataplacecalledElPoso.AnothermileandahalfoftrailextendedfromElPosotothetrenchesofSanJuan.ThereadershouldrememberElPoso, as itmarkedan importantstarting-pointagainstSanJuanontheeventfulfirstofJuly.Forsixdaysthearmywasencampedoneithersideofthetrailforthreemiles

backfromtheoutposts.Theregimentalcampstouchedeachother,andalldaylongthepack-trainscarryingtheday’srationspassedupanddownbetweenthem.Thetrailwasasunkenwagonroad,whereitwaspossible,inafewplaces,fortwowagonstopassatonetime,butthegreaterdistancesweresonarrowthattherewasbutjustroomforawagon,oraloadedmule-train,tomakeitsway.Thebanksofthetrailwerethreeorfourfeethigh,andwhenitraineditwasconvertedintoahugegutter,withsidesofmud,andwithaliquidmudafootdeepbetweenthem.Thecampswerepitchedalongthetrailasneartheparallelstreamaspossible,andintheoccasionalplaceswheretherewasrich,highgrass.Atnightthemensleptindogtents,openatthefrontandback,andduring thedayspent their timeunder the shadeof treesalong thetrail, or on the banks of the stream. Sentries were placed at every few feetalong thesestreams toguard themfromanypossiblepollution.For six daysthearmyrestedinthisway,forasanarmymovesandactsonlyonitsbelly,andasthebellyofthisarmywasthreemileslong,itcouldadvancebutslowly.Thisweekofrest,afterthecrampedlifeofthetroop-ship,wasnotungrateful,although the rations were scarce and there was no tobacco, which was asnecessarytothehealthofthemenastheirfood.Duringthisweekofwaiting,thechiefexcitementwastowalkoutamileandahalfbeyondtheoutpoststothehillofElPoso,andlookacrossthebasinthatlayinthegreatvalleywhichleadstoSantiago.Theleftofthevalleywasthehillswhichhidethesea.TherightofthevalleywasthehillsinwhichnestlethevillageofElCaney.BelowElPoso,inthebasin,thedensegreenforeststretchedamileandahalftothehillsofSanJuan.ThesehillslookedsoquietandsunnyandwellkeptthattheyremindedoneofaNewEnglandorchard.Therewasabluebungalowonahilltotheright,aredbungalowhigherupontheright,andinthecentretheblock-houseofSanJuan,whichlookedlikeaChinesepagoda.Three-quartersofamilebehindthem,withadipbetween,werethelongwhitewallsofthehospitalandbarracksofSantiago,wearingthirteenRedCrossflags,and,aswaspointedouttotheforeignattachéslater,twosix-inchgunsahundredyardsinadvanceoftheRedCrossflags.Itwassoquiet,sofair,andsoprosperouslookingthatitbreathedofpeace.Itseemedasthoughonemight,withoutaccident,walkinandtakedinnerattheVenusRestaurant, or loll on the benches in thePlaza, or rock in one of thegreatbent-woodchairsaroundthepatiooftheDonCarlosClub.But,onthethofJune,along,yellowpitopenedinthehill-sideofSanJuan,andinitwecouldseestrawsombrerosrisingandbobbingupanddown,andundertheshadeoftheblock-house,blue-coatedSpaniardsstrollingleisurelyaboutorridingforthonlittlewhiteponiestoscamperoverthehills.Officersofeveryregiment,attachésofforeigncountries,correspondents,andstaff

officersdailyreportedthefactthattherifle-pitsweregrowinginlengthandinnumber,andthatinplainsightfromthehillofElPoso the enemy wasintrenchinghimselfatSanJuan,andatthelittlevillageofElCaneytotheright,wherehewasmarchingthroughthestreets.ButnoartillerywassenttoElPosohilltodropashellamongthebusymenatworkamongthetrenches,ortointerruptthestreetparadesinElCaney.ForfourdaysbeforetheAmericansoldierscapturedthesamerifle-pitsatElCaneyandSanJuan,withalossoftwothousandmen,they watched thesemen diligently preparing fortheir coming, andwonderedwhy therewasnoorder to embarrassor to endthesepreparations.OntheafternoonofJune,CaptainMillsrodeuptothetentofColonelWood,andtoldhimthatonaccountofillness,GeneralWheelerandGeneralYounghadrelinquishedtheircommands,andthatGeneralSumnerwouldtakechargeof the Cavalry Division; that he, Colonel Wood, would take command ofGeneralYoung’sbrigade,andColonelCarroll,ofGeneralSumner’sbrigade.“Youwillbreakcampandmoveforwardatfouro’clock,”hesaid.Itwasthenthreeo’clock,andapparentlytheordertomoveforwardatfourhadbeengivento each regiment at nearly the same time, for they all struck their tents andsteppeddowninto the trail together. Itwasas thoughfifteenregimentswereencamped along the sidewalks of Fifth Avenue andwere all ordered at thesamemomenttomoveintoitandmarchdowntown.IfFifthAvenueweretenfeetwide,onecanimaginetheconfusion.GeneralChaffeewasatGeneralLawton’shead-quarters,andtheystoodapartwhisperingtogetheraboutthemarchtheyweretotaketoElCaney.Justovertheirheadstheballoonwasascendingforthefirsttimeanditsgreatglisteningbulkhungjustabovethetreetops,andthemenindifferentregiments,pickingtheirwayalongthetrail,gazedupatitopen-mouthed.Thehead-quarterscampwascrowded.After aweekof inaction the army, at amoment’s notice,wasmovingforward,andeveryonehadriddeninhastetolearnwhy.Therewereattachés,instrangeuniforms,self-importantCubangenerals,officersfromtheflagshipNewYork,andanarmyofphotographers.Atthesideofthecamp,doublelinesofsoldierspassedslowlyalongthetwopathsofthemuddyroad,while,betweenthem,aidesdashedupanddown,splashingthemwithdirtywater,andshouting,“Youwillcomeupatonce,sir.”“Youwillnotattempttoenterthetrailyet,sir.”“GeneralSumner’scompliments,andwhyareyounotinyourplace?”Twelvethousandmen,withtheireyesfixedonaballoon,andtreadingoneachother’sheelsinthreeinchesofmud,moveslowly,andafterthreehours,itseemedasthougheverymanintheUnitedStateswasunderarmsand

stumblingandslippingdownthattrail.Thelinespasseduntilthemoonrose.Theyseemedendless,interminable;therewerecavalrymountedanddismounted,artillerywithcrackingwhipsandcursingdrivers,RoughRidersinbrown,andregulars,bothblackandwhite,inblue.Midnightcame,andtheywerestillstumblingandslippingforward.GeneralSumner’shead-quarterstentwaspitchedtotherightofElPosohill.Belowuslaythebasinamileandahalfinlength,andamileandahalfwide,fromwhichawhitemistwas rising.Near us, drowned under themist, seventhousandmenweresleeping,and,farthertotheright,GeneralChaffee’sfivethousandwerelyingunderthebushesalongthetrailstoElCaney,waitingtomarchonitandeatitupbeforebreakfast.Theplacehardlyneedsamaptoexplainit.Thetrailswerelikeapitchfork,withitsprongstouchingthehillsofSanJuan.Thelonghandleofthepitchforkwasthetrailoverwhichwehadjustcome,thejoiningofthehandleandtheprongswereElPoso.ElCaneylayhalf-wayalongtherightprong,theleftonewasthetraildownwhich,inthemorning,thetroopsweretobehurleduponSanJuan.Itwasasyetanutterlyundiscoveredcountry.Threemilesaway,acrossthebasinofmist,wecouldseethestreetlampsofSantiagoshiningovertheSanJuanhills.Aboveus,thetropicalmoonhungwhiteandclearinthedarkpurplesky,piercedwithmillionsofwhitestars.Asweturnedin,therewasjustalittlesomethingintheairwhichmadesaying“good-night”agentlefarce,fornoonewenttosleepimmediately,butlaylookingupatthestars,andafteralongsilence,andmuchrestlessturningontheblanketwhichwesharedtogether,thesecondlieutenantsaid:“So,ifanythinghappenstome,to-morrow,you’llseeshegetsthem,won’tyou?”Beforethemoonroseagain,everysixthmanwhohadsleptinthemistthatnightwaseitherkilledorwounded;butthesecondlieutenantwassittingontheedgeofaSpanishrifle-pit,dirty,sweaty,andweakforfood,butvictorious,andtheunknownshedidnotgetthem.ElCaneyhadnotyet thrownoffherblanketofmistbeforeCapron’sbatteryopenedonitfromaridgetwomilesintherear.TheplanforthedaywasthatEl Caney should fall in an hour. The plan for the day is interesting chieflybecauseitissodifferentfromwhathappened.Accordingtotheplanthearmywas to advance in two divisions along the two trails. Incidentally,GeneralLawton’s division was to pick up El Caney, and when El Caney waseliminated,hisdivisionwas tocontinue forwardand joinhandson the rightwiththedivisionsofGeneralSumnerandGeneralKent.Thearmywasthentorestforthatnightinthewoods,halfamilefromSanJuan.OnthefollowingmorningitwastoattackSanJuanonthetwoflanks,undercoverofartillery.Theobjectiontothisplan,whichdidnotapparentlysuggest

itselftoGeneralShafter,wasthatanarmyoftwelvethousandmen,sleepingwithinfivehundredyardsoftheenemy’srifle-pits,mightnotunreasonablybeexpectedtopassabadnight.Aswediscoveredthenextday,notonlythefivehundredyards,butthewholebasinwascoveredbythefirefromtherifle-pits.Evenbydaylight,whenitwaspossibletoseeksomeslightshelter,thearmycouldnotremaininthewoods,butaccordingtotheplanitwasexpectedtobivouacforthenightinthosewoods,andinthemorningtomanoeuvreanddeployandmarchthroughthemtothetwoflanksofSanJuan.Howtheenemywastobehypnotizedwhilethiswasgoingforwarditisdifficulttounderstand.According to this programme,Capron’sbatteryopenedonElCaneyandGrimes’sbatteryopenedonthepagoda-likeblock-houseofSanJuan.TherangefromElPosowasexactly,yards,andthefiring,aswasdiscoveredlater,wasnotveryeffective.Thebatteryusedblackpowder,and,asaresult,aftereachexplosionthecurtainofsmokehungoverthegunforfullyaminutebeforethegunnerscouldseetheSanJuantrenches,whichwaschieflyimportantbecauseforafullminuteitgaveamarktotheenemy.Thehillonwhichthebatterystoodwaslikeasugar-loaf.Behinditwasthefarm-houseofElPoso, the only building in sightwithin a radius of amile, and in itwereCubansoldiersandothernon-combatants.TheRoughRidershadbeenorderedtohaltintheyardofthefarm-houseandtheartilleryhorsesweredrawnupinit, under the lee of the hill. The First and Tenth dismounted Cavalry wereencamped a hundred yards from the battery along the ridge. Theymight assensiblyhavebeenorderedtopainttheringsinatargetwhileacompanywasfiring at the bull’s-eye. To our first twenty shots the enemymade no reply;when theydid itwas impossible,owing to theirusing smokelesspowder, tolocatetheirguns.TheirthirdshellfellinamongtheCubansintheblock-houseand among the Rough Riders and the men of the First and Tenth Cavalry,killingsomeandwoundingmany.These casualtieswereutterly unnecessaryandwereduetothestupidityofwhoeverplacedthemenwithinfiftyyardsofgunsinaction.Grime’sbatteryatElPoso.ThethirdSpanishshellfellinamongtheCubansintheblock-houseandamongtheRoughRidersA quarter of an hour after the firing began from El Poso one of GeneralShafter’saidesdirectedGeneralSumnertoadvancewithhisdivisiondowntheSantiagotrail,andtohaltattheedgeofthewoods.“WhatamItodothen?”askedGeneralSumner.“Youaretoawaitfurtherorders,”theaideanswered.

AsamatteroffactandhistorythiswasprobablythelastorderGeneralSumnerreceivedfromGeneralShafter,untilthetroopsofhisdivisionhadtakentheSanJuanhills,asitbecameimpossibletogetwordtoGeneralShafter,thetrailleadingtohishead-quarterstent,threemilesintherear,beingblockedbythesoldiersoftheFirstandTenthdismountedCavalry,andlater,byLawton’sdivision.GeneralSumnerledtheSixth,Third,andNinthCavalryandtheRoughRidersdownthetrail,withinstructionsfortheFirstandTenthtofollow.Thetrail,virginasyetfromthefootofanAmericansoldier,wasaswideasitsnarrowestpart,whichwassometenfeetacross.AtplacesitwasaswideasBroadway,butonlyforsuchshortdistancesthatitwasnecessaryforthementoadvanceincolumn,indoublefile.Amazeofunderbrushandtreesoneithersidewasallbutimpenetrable,andwhentheofficersandmenhadonceassembledintothebasin,theycouldonlyguessastowhatlaybeforethem,oroneitherflank.Attheendofamilethecountrybecamemoreopen,andGeneralSumnersawtheSpaniardsintrenchedahalf-mileawayontheslopinghills.Astream,calledtheSanJuanRiver,ranacrossthetrailatthispoint,andanotherstreamcrosseditagaintwohundredyardsfartheron.Thetroopswerehaltedatthisfirststream,somecrossingit,andothersdeployinginsinglefiletotheright.Somewereonthebanksofthestream,othersattheedgeofthewoodsinthebushes.Otherslayinthehighgrasswhichwassohighthatitstoppedthewind,andsohotthatitalmostchokedandsuffocatedthosewholayinit.Theenemysawtheadvanceandbeganfiringwithpitilessaccuracyintothejammedandcrowdedtrailandalongthewholeborderofthewoods.Therewasnotasingleyardofgroundforamiletotherearwhichwasnotinsidethezoneoffire.Ourmenwereorderednottoreturnthefirebuttoliestillandwaitforfurtherorders.Someofthemcouldseetherifle-pitsoftheenemyquiteclearlyandthemeninthem,butmanysawnothingbutthebushesunderwhichtheylay,andthehighgrasswhichseemedtoburnwhentheypressedagainstit.Itwasduringthisperiodofwaitingthatthegreaternumber of ourmenwerekilled.Foronehourtheylayontheirriflesstaringatthewavinggreenstuffaroundthem,whilethebulletsdrovepastincessantly,withsavageinsistence,cuttingthegrassagainandagaininhundredsoffreshplaces.Meninlinesprangfromthegroundandsankbackagainwithagroan,orrolledtoonesideclingingsilentlytoanarmorshoulder.Behindthelineshospitalstewardspassedcontinually,drawingthewoundedbacktothestreams,wheretheylaidtheminlongrows,theirfeettouchingthewater’sedgeandtheirbodiessupportedbythemuddybank.Upanddownthelines,andthroughthefordsofthestreams,mountedaidesdrovetheirhorsesatagallop,asconspicuousatargetasthesteepleonachurch,andoneafteranotherpaidthepriceofhispositionandfellfromhishorsewoundedordead.CaptainMillsfellashewasgivinganorder,shotthroughtheforeheadbehindbotheyes;

CaptainO’Neill,oftheRoughRiders,ashesaid,“ThereisnoSpanishbulletmadethatcankillme.”Steel,Swift,Henry,eachofthemwasshotoutofhissaddle.Hiddeninthetreesabovethestreams,andabovethetrail,sharp-shootersandguerillasaddedafreshterrortothewounded.Therewasnohidingfromthem.Theirbulletscamefromeveryside.Theirinvisiblesmokehelpedtokeeptheirhiding-placessecret,andintheincessantshriekofshrapnelandthespitoftheMausers,itwasdifficulttolocatethereportsoftheirrifles.TheysparedneitherthewoundednorrecognizedtheRedCross;theykilledthesurgeonsandthestewardscarryingthelitters,andkilledthewoundedmenonthelitters.AguerillainatreeaboveusshotoneoftheRoughRidersinthebreastwhileIwashelpinghimcarryCaptainMortonHenrytothedressing-station,theballpassingdownthroughhim,andasecondshot,fromthesametree,barelymissedHenryashelayonthegroundwherewehaddroppedhim.Hewasalreadytwicewoundedandsocoveredwithbloodthatnoonecouldhavemistakenhiscondition.Thesurgeonsatworkalongthestreamdressedthewoundswithoneeyecastaloftatthetrees.ItwasnottheMauserbulletstheyfeared,thoughtheypassedcontinuously,buttoohightodotheirpatientsfurtherharm,butthebulletsofthesharp-shooterswhichstruckfairlyinamongthem,splashinginthewaterandscatteringthepebbles.Thesoundsofthetwobulletswereasdifferentasisthesharppopofasoda-waterbottlefromthebuzzingofanangrywasp.Foratimeitseemedasthougheverysecondmanwaseitherkilledorwounded;onecameuponthemlyingbehindthebush,underwhichtheyhadcrawledwithsomestrangeideathatitwouldprotectthem,orcrouchedunderthebankofthestream,orlyingontheirstomachsandlappingupthewaterwiththeeagernessofthirstydogs.Astotheirsuffering,thewoundedweremagnificentlysilent,theyneithercomplainednorgroanednorcursed.“I’vegotapuncturedtire,”wastheirgrimanswertoinquiries.Whitemenandcoloredmen, veterans and recruits and volunteers, each lay waiting for thebattle to begin or to end so that hemight be carried away to safety, for thewoundedwereinasgreatdangeraftertheywerehitasthoughtheywereinthefiringline,butnonequestionednorcomplained.IcameacrossLieutenantRoberts,oftheTenthCavalry,lyingundertherootsofatreebesidethestreamwiththreeofhiscoloredtroopersstretchedaroundhim.Hewasshotthroughtheintestines,andeachofthethreemenwithhimwasshotinthearmorleg.Theyhadbeenoverlookedorforgotten,andwestumbleduponthemonlybytheaccidentoflosingourway.Theyhadnoknowledgeastohowthebattlewasgoingorwheretheircomradeswereorwheretheenemywas.Atanymoment,foralltheyknew,theSpaniardsmight

breakthroughthebushesaboutthem.Itwasamostlonelypicture,theyounglieutenant,halfnaked,andwetwithhisownblood,sittinguprightbesidetheemptystream,andhisthreefollowerscrouchingathisfeetlikethreefaithfulwatch-dogs,eachwearinghisredbadgeofcourage,withhisblackskintannedtoahaggardgray,andwithhiseyesfixedpatientlyonthewhitelipsofhisofficer.Whenthewhitesoldierswithmeofferedtocarryhimbacktothedressing-station,thenegroesresenteditstiffly.“IftheLieutenanthadbeenabletomove,wewouldhavecarriedhimawaylongago,”saidthesergeant,quiteoverlookingthefactthathisarmwasshattered.“Oh,don’tbother the surgeonsaboutme,”Roberts added, cheerfully. “Theymustbeverybusy.Icanwait.”Asyet,withallthesekilledandwounded,wehadaccomplishednothingexceptto obey orderswhichwastoawaitfurtherorders.Theobservationballoonhastenedtheend.Itcameblunderingdownthetrail,andstoppedtheadvanceoftheFirstandTenthCavalry,andwassentupdirectlyovertheheadsofourmentoobservewhatshouldhavebeenobservedaweekbeforebyscoutsandreconnoitringparties.Aballoon,twomilestotherear,andhighenoughintheairtobeoutofrangeoftheenemy’sfiremaysome dayproveitselftobeofuseandvalue.Butaballoonontheadvanceline,andonlyfiftyfeetabovethetopsofthetrees,wasmerelyaninvitationtotheenemytokilleverythingbeneathit.Andtheenemyrespondedtotheinvitation.ASpaniardmightquestionifhecouldhitaman,oranumberofmen,hiddeninthebushes,buthadnodoubtatallastohisabilitytohitamammothglisteningballonlysixhundredyardsdistant,andsoallthetrenchesfiredatitatonce,andthemenoftheFirstandTenth,packedtogetherdirectlybehindit,receivedthefullforceofthebullets.Themenlyingdirectlybelowitreceivedtheshrapnelwhichwastimedtohitit,andwhichatlast,fortunately,didhitit.Thiswasenduredforanhour,anhourofsuchhelloffireandheat,thattheheatinitself,hadtherebeennobullets,wouldhavebeenrememberedforitscruelty.Mengaspedontheirbacks,likefishesinthebottomofaboat,theirheadsburninginsideandout,theirlimbstooheavytomove.Theyhadbeenrushedhereandrushedtherewetwithsweatandwetwithfordingthestreams,underasunthatwouldhavemademovingafananeffort,andtheylayprostrate,gaspingatthehotair,withfacesaflame,andtheirtonguesstickingout,andtheireyesrolling.Allthroughthisthevolleysfromtherifle-pitssputteredandrattled,andthebulletssangcontinuouslylikethewindthroughtherigginginagale,shrapnelwhinedandbroke,andstillnoordercamefromGeneralShafter.CaptainHowse,ofGeneralSumner’sstaff, rodedownthetrail to learnwhathaddelayedtheFirstandTenth,andwashailedbyColonelDerby,whowasjustdescendingfromtheshatteredballoon.

“Isawmenupthereonthosehills,”ColonelDerbyshouted;“theyarefiringatourtroops.”Thatwaspartoftheinformationcontributedbytheballoon.CaptainHowse’sreplyislosttohistory.GeneralKent’sdivision,which,accordingtotheplan,wastohavebeenheldinreserve,hadbeenrushedupintherearoftheFirstandTenth,andtheTenthhaddeployedinskirmishordertotheright.ThetrailwasnowcompletelyblockedbyKent’sdivision.Lawton’sdivision,whichwastohavere-enforcedontheright,hadnotappeared,butincessantfiringfromthedirectionofElCaneyshowedthatheandChaffeewerefightingmightily.Thesituationwasdesperate.Ourtroopscouldnotretreat,asthetrailfortwomilesbehindthemwaswedgedwithmen.Theycouldnotremainwheretheywere,fortheywerebeingshottopieces.TherewasonlyonethingtheycoulddogoforwardandtaketheSanJuanhillsbyassault.Itwasasdesperateasthesituationitself.Tochargeearthworksheldbymenwithmodernrifles,andusingmodernartillery,untilaftertheearthworkshavebeenshakenbyartillery,andtoattacktheminadvanceandnotintheflanks,arebothimpossiblemilitarypropositions.Butthiscampaignhadnotbeenconductedaccordingtomilitaryrules,andaseriesofmilitaryblundershadbroughtseventhousandAmericansoldiersintoachuteofdeathfromwhichtherewasnoescapeexceptbytakingthe enemy who held it by the throat and driving him out and beating himdown.Sothegeneralsofdivisionsandbrigadessteppedbackandrelinquishedtheircommandtotheregimentalofficersandtheenlistedmen.“Wecandonothingmore,”theyvirtuallysaid.“Thereistheenemy.”ColonelRoosevelt,onhorseback,brokefromthewoodsbehindthelineoftheNinth,andfindingitsmenlyinginhisway,shouted:“Ifyoudon’twishtogoforward,letmymenpass.”ThejuniorofficersoftheNinth,withtheirnegroes,instantlysprangintolinewiththeRoughRiders,andchargedattheblueblock-houseontheright.IspeakofRooseveltfirstbecause,withGeneralHawkins,wholedKent’sdivision,notablytheSixthandSixteenthRegulars,hewas,withoutdoubt,themostconspicuousfigureinthecharge.GeneralHawkins,withhairaswhiteassnow,andyetfarinadvanceofmenthirtyyearshisjunior,wassonobleasightthatyoufeltinclinedtoprayforhissafety;ontheotherhand,Roosevelt,mountedhighonhorseback,andchargingtherifle-pitsatagallopandquitealone,madeyoufeelthatyouwouldliketocheer.Heworeonhissombreroabluepolka-dothandkerchief,àlaHavelock,which,asheadvanced,floatedoutstraightbehindhishead,likeaguidon.Afterward,themenofhisregimentwhofollowedthisflag,adoptedapolka-dothandkerchiefasthebadgeoftheRoughRiders.Thesetwoofficerswerenotablyconspicuousinthecharge,butnoonecanclaimthatanytwomen,oranyoneman,wasmore braveormore

daring,orshowedgreatercourageinthatslow,stubbornadvance,thandidanyoftheothers.Someoneaskedoneoftheofficersifhehadanydifficultyinmakinghismenfollowhim.“No,”heanswered,“Ihadsomedifficultyinkeepingupwiththem.”Asoneofthebrigadegeneralssaid:“SanJuanwaswonbytheregimentalofficersandmen.Wehadaslittletodoastherefereeataprize-fightwhocalls‘time.’Wecalled‘time’andtheydidthefighting.”IhaveseenmanyillustrationsandpicturesofthischargeontheSanJuanhills,butnoneofthemseemtoshowitjustasIrememberit.Inthepicture-papersthemenarerunninguphillswiftlyandgallantly,inregularformation,rankafterrank,withflagsflying,theireyesaflame,andtheirhairstreaming,theirbayonetsfixed,inlong,brilliantlines,aninvincible,overpoweringweightofnumbers.InsteadofwhichIthinkthethingwhichimpressedonethemost,whenourmenstartedfromcover,wasthattheyweresofew.Itseemedasifsomeonehadmadeanawfulandterriblemistake.One’sinstinctwastocalltothemtocomeback.Youfeltthatsome onehadblunderedandthatthesefewmenwereblindlyfollowingoutsomemadman’smadorder.Itwasnotheroicthen,it seemed merely absurdly pathetic. The pity of it, the folly ofsuchasacrificewaswhatheldyou.Theyhadnoglitteringbayonets,theywerenotmassedinregulararray.Therewereafewmeninadvance,bunchedtogether,andcreepingupasteep,sunnyhill,thetopsofwhichroaredandflashedwithflame.Themenheldtheirgunspressedacrosstheirchestsandsteppedheavilyastheyclimbed.Behindthesefirstfew,spreadingoutlikeafan,weresinglelinesofmen,slippingandscramblinginthesmoothgrass,movingforwardwithdifficulty,asthoughtheywerewadingwaisthighthroughwater,movingslowly,carefully,withstrenuouseffort.Itwasmuchmorewonderfulthananyswingingchargecouldhavebeen.Theywalkedtogreetdeathateverystep,manyofthem,astheyadvanced,sinkingsuddenlyorpitchingforwardanddisappearinginthehighgrass,buttheotherswadedon,stubbornly,formingathinbluelinethatkeptcreepinghigherandhigherupthehill.Itwasasinevitableastherisingtide.Itwasamiracleofself-sacrifice,atriumphofbull-dogcourage,whichonewatchedbreathlesswithwonder.ThefireoftheSpanishriflemen,whostillstuckbravelytotheirposts,doubledandtrebledinfierceness,thecrestsofthehillscrackledandburstinamazedroars,andrippledwithwavesoftinyflame.Butthebluelinecreptsteadilyupandon,andthen,nearthetop,thebrokenfragmentsgatheredtogetherwithasuddenburstofspeed,theSpaniardsappearedforamomentoutlinedagainsttheskyandpoisedforinstantflight,firedalastvolley,andfledbeforetheswift-movingwavethatleapedandsprangafterthem.The men of the Ninth and the Rough Riders rushed to the block-house

together,themenoftheSixth,oftheThird,oftheTenthCavalry,oftheSixthandSixteenthInfantry,fellontheirfacesalongthecrestof thehillsbeyond,andopeneduponthevanishingenemy.Theydrovetheyellowsilkflagsofthecavalry and the flag of their country into the soft earth of the trenches, andthensankdownandlookedbackattheroadtheyhadclimbedandswungtheirhatsintheair.Andfromfaroverhead,fromthesefewfiguresperchedontheSpanishrifle-pits,with their flagsplantedamongtheemptycartridgesof theenemy, andoverlooking thewalls ofSantiago, came, faintly, the soundof atired,brokencheer.

IIITHETAKINGOFCOAMO

Thisistheinsidestoryofthesurrender,duringtheSpanishWar,ofthetownofCoamo.Itiswrittenbythemantowhomthetownsurrendered.ImmediatelyafterthesurrenderthissamemanbecameMilitaryGovernorofCoamo. Heheldofficeforfullytwentyminutes.BeforebeginningthisstorythereadermustforgetallhemayhappentoknowofthisparticulartriumphofthePortoRicanExpedition.HemustforgetthatthetakingofCoamohasalwaysbeencreditedtoMajor-GeneralJamesH.Wilson,whoonthatoccasioncommandedCaptainAnderson’sBattery,theSixteenthPennsylvania,TroopCofBrooklyn,andunderGeneralErnst,theSecondandThirdWisconsinVolunteers.HemustforgetthatintherecordsoftheWarDepartmentallthepraise,anditisofthehighest,forthisvictoryisbestoweduponGeneralWilsonandhisfourthousandsoldiers.Eventhewriterofthis,whenhecabledanaccountoftheeventtohispaper,gave,withevery oneelse,theentirecredittoGeneralWilson.And ever since hisconscience has upbraided him.Hisonlyclaimfortoleranceasawarcorrespondenthasbeenthathealwayshasstucktothefacts,andnowhefeelsthatinthesacredcauseofhistoryhisfriendshipandadmirationforGeneralWilson,thatveteranoftheCivil,Philippine,andChineseWars,mustnolongerstandinthewayofhisdutyasanaccuratereporter.Henolongercantellalie.HemustatlastownupthathehimselfcapturedCoamo.OfficerswatchingtheartilleryplayonCoamo.DrawnbyF.C.YohnfromaphotographbytheAuthorOnthemorningof the thofAugust, ,theSixteenthPennsylvaniaVolunteersarrivedontheoutskirtsofthattown.Inordertogettheretheyhadspentthenightincrawlingovermountaintrailsandscramblingthroughstreamsandravines.ItwasGeneralWilson’splanthatbythisflankingnightmarchtheSixteenthPennsylvaniawouldreachtheroadleadingfromCoamotoSanJuan

in time to cut off the retreat of theSpanish garrison,whenGeneralWilson,withthemainbody,attackeditfromtheoppositeside.Atseveno’clockinthemorningGeneralWilsonbeganthefrontalattackbyturningloosetheartilleryonablock-house,whichthreatenedhisapproach,andbyadvancingtheWisconsinVolunteers.ThecavalryhesenttotherighttocaptureLosBaños.Ateighto’clock,fromwherethemainbodyrested,twomilesfromCoamo,wecouldheartheSixteenthPennsylvaniaopenitsattackandinstantlybecomehotlyengaged.Theenemyreturnedthefirefiercely,andthefiringfrombothsidesatoncebecamesoseverethatitwasevidentthePennsylvaniaVolunteerseitherwouldtakethetownwithoutthemainbody,orthattheywouldgreatlyneeditsassistance.Theartillerywasaccordinglyadvancedonethousandyardsandtheinfantrywashurriedforward.TheSecondWisconsinapproachedCoamo along the main road from Ponce, theThirdWisconsinthroughfieldsofgrasstotherightoftheroad,untilthetworegimentsmetatthefordbywhichtheBañosroadcrossestheCoamoRiver.Butbeforetheymet,fromapositionneartheartillery,IhadwatchedthroughmyglassestheSecondWisconsinwithGeneralErnstatitsheadadvancingalongthemainroad,andas,whenIsawthem,theywerenear the river, Iguessedtheywouldcontinueacrossthebridgeandthattheysoonwouldbeinthetown.AsthefiringfromtheSixteenthstillcontinued,itseemedobviousthatGeneralErnst would be the first general officer to enter Coamo,andtoreceiveitssurrender.Ihadneverseenfivethousandpeoplesurrendertooneman,anditseemedthat,ifIweretowitnessthatceremony,mybestplanwastoabandontheartilleryand,asquicklyaspossible,pursuetheSecondWisconsin.Ididnotwanttosharethespectacleofthesurrenderwithmybrothercorrespondents,soItriedtostealawayfromthethreewhowerepresent.TheywereThomasF.Millard,WalsteinRootoftheSun,andHoraceThompson.BydodgingthroughacoffeecentralIcameoutahalfmilefromthemandinadvanceoftheThirdWisconsin.ThereIencounteredtwo“boyofficers,”CaptainJohnC.BreckenridgeandLieutenantFred.S.Titus,whohadtemporarilyabandonedtheirthanklessdutiesintheCommissariatDepartmentinordertoseekdeathorgloryintheskirmish-line.TheywantedtoknowwhereIwasgoing,andwhenIexplained,theydeclaredthatwhenCoamosurrenderedtheyalsoweregoingtobeamongthosepresent.So we slipped away from the main body and rode off as an independentorganization.Butfromthebaldridge,wheretheartillerywasstillhammeringthe town, the three correspondents andCaptainAlfredPaget,HerMajesty’snaval attaché, observed our attempt to steal a march on General Wilson’sforces,andpursuedusandsoonovertookus.

Wenowwereseven,ortobeexact,eight,forwithMr.Millardwas“Jimmy,”whointimesofpeacesellspapersinHeraldSquare,andintimesofwarcarriesMr.Millard’scopytothepresspost.Weweremuchnearerthefordthanthebridge,sowewadedthe“drift”andstartedonagallopalongthemileofmilitaryroadthatlaybetweenusandCoamo.ThefiringfromtheSixteenthPennsylvaniahadslackened,butasweadvanceditbecamesharper,moreinsistent,andseemedtourgeustogreaterspeed.Acrosstheroadweredugroughrifle-pitswhichhadthelookofhavingbeenbutthatmomentabandoned.Whathadbeenintendedforthebreakfastoftheenemywasburninginpotsovertinyfires,littleheapsofcartridgeslayinreadinessupontheedgesofeachpit,andanarm-chair,inwhichasentryhadkeptacomfortablelookout,laysprawlinginthemiddleoftheroad.Thehutsthatfaceditwereempty.Theonlylivingthingswesawwerethechickensandpigsinthekitchen-gardens.Oneitherhandwasevery evidenceofhastyandpanic-strickenflight.WerejoicedattheseevidencesofthefactthattheWisconsinVolunteershadsweptallbeforethem.Ourrejoicingswerenotentirelyunselfish.Itwassoquietaheadthatsomeonesuggestedthetownhadalreadysurrendered.Butthatwouldhavebeentoobitteradisappointment,andasthefiringfromthefurthersideofCoamostill continued,we refused tobelieve it, andwhipped the poniesintogreaterhaste.Wewerenowonlyaquarterofamiledistantfromthebuilt-upportionofCoamo, where the roadturnedsharplyintothemainstreetofthetown.CaptainPaget,whointheabsenceoftheBritishmilitaryattachéonaccountofsickness, accompanied the army as a guest ofGeneralWilson, gaveway tothoughtsofetiquette.“WillGeneralWilson think I shouldhavewaited forhim?”heshouted.Thewordswerejoltedoutofhimasheroseinthesaddle.Thenoiseoftheponies’hoofsmadeconversationdifficult.IshoutedbackthatthepresenceofGeneralErnstinthetownmadeitquiteproperforaforeignattachétoenterit.“Itmust have surrendered by now,” I shouted. “It’s been half an hour sinceErnstcrossedthebridge.”Attheseinnocentwords,allmycompanionstuggedviolentlyat theirbridlesandshouted“Whoa!”“Crossed thebridge?” theyyelled.“There isnobridge!Thebridge isblownup!Ifhehasn’tcrossedbytheford,heisn’tinthetown!”Then,inmyturn,Ishouted“Whoa!”ButbynowthePortoRicanponieshaddecidedthatthiswastheraceoftheirlives, and each hadmade up hismind that,Mexican bit or noMexican bit,

until hehadcarriedhis rider first into the townofCoamo,hewouldnotbehalted.AsItuggedhelplesslyatmyMexicanbit,IsawhowIhadmademymistake.Thevolunteers,onfindingthebridgedestroyed,insteadofmarchinguponCoamohadturnedtotheford,thesamefordwhichwehadcrossedhalfanhourbeforetheyreachedit.Theynowwerebehindus.InsteadofatownwhichhadsurrenderedtoathousandAmericansoldiers,we,sevenunarmedmenandJimmy,werebeingsweptintoahostilecityasfastastheenemy’sponiescouldtakeusthere.BreckenridgeandTitushastilyputtheblameuponme.“IfwegetintotroublewiththeGeneralforthis,”theyshouted,“itwillbeyourfault.YoutoldusErnstwasinthetownwithathousandmen.”IshoutedbackthatnooneregrettedthefactthathewasnotmorekeenlythanIdidmyself.TitusandBreckenridgeeachglancedatanew,full-dresssword.“Wemightaswellgoin,”theyshouted,“andtakeitanyway!”IdecidedthatTitusandBreckenridgewerewastedintheCommissariatDepartment.Thethreecorrespondentslookedmorecomfortable.“Ifyouofficersgoin,”theycried,“theGeneralcan’tblameus,”andtheydugtheirspursintotheponies.“Wait!” shoutedHerMajesty’s representative. “That’s all very well for youchaps,butwhatprotectsmeiftheAdmiraltyfindsoutIhaveledachargeonaSpanishgarrison?”ButPaget’sponyrefusedtoconsiderthefeelingsoftheLordsoftheAdmiralty.AssuccessfullyPagetmighthavetriedtopullbackarow-boatfromtheedgeofNiagara.And,moreover,Millard,inorderthatJimmymightbethefirsttoreachPoncewithdespatches,hadmountedhimonthefastestponyinthebunch,andhealreadywasfarinthelead.Hissportinginstincts,nursedinthepool-roomsoftheTenderloinandatGuttenburg,hadsenthimthreelengthstothegood.ItneverwoulddotohaveanewsboytellinNewYorkthathehadbeatenthecorrespondentsofthepapershesoldinthestreets;nortopermitcommissionedofficerstotakethedustofonewhoneverbeforehadriddenonanythingbutacablecar.Soweallracedforwardand,bunchedtogether,sweptintothemainstreetofCoamo. It was gratefully empty. TherewerenoAmericansoldiers,but,then,neitherwerethereanySpanishsoldiers.Acrossthestreetstretchedmorerifle-pitsandbarricadesofironpipes,butinsighttherewasneitherfriendnorfoe.Onthestonesofthedesertedstreetthe

galloping hoofs sounded like the advance of a whole regiment of cavalry.Theirclattergaveusamostcomfortablefeeling.Wealmostcouldimaginethetownspeople believing us to be the Rough Riders themselves and fleeingbeforeus.Andthen,theemptystreetseemedtothreatenanambush.Wethoughthastilyofsunkenmines,ofsoldierscrouchingbehindthebarriers,behindthehousesatthenextcorner,ofMauserscoveringusfromthelatticedbalconiesoverhead.Untilatlast,whenthesilencehadbecomealertandmenacing,alonelymandashedintothemiddleofthestreet,hurledawhiteflaginfrontofus,andthendivedheadlongundertheporchofahouse.Thenextinstant,asthoughatasignal,ahundredcitizens,eachwithawhiteflaginbothhands,ranfromcover,wavingtheirbanners,andgaspinginweakandterror-shakentones,“VivanlosAmericanos.”Wetriedtopullup,buttheponieshadnotyetsettledamongthemselveswhichofushadwon,andcarriedustotheextremeedgeofthetown,whereaprecipiceseemedtoinvitethemtostop,andwefelloffintothearmsofthePortoRicans.Theybroughtuswineintincans,cigars,borneintheapronsandmantillasoftheirwomen-folk,anddemijohnsofnativerum.Theywereabject,trembling,tearful. They made one instantly forget that the momentbeforehehadbeenextremelyfrightened.OneofthemspoketomethefewwordsofSpanishwithwhichIhadanacquaintance.HetoldmehewastheAlcalde,andthathebeggedtosurrenderintomy hands the town ofCoamo.Iledhiminstantlytooneside.IwasafraidthatifIdidnottakehimuphewouldsurrendertoPagetortoJimmy.Ibadehimconductmetohisofficialresidence.Hedidso,andgavemethekeytothecartel,astaffofofficeofgoldandebony,andtheflagofthetown,whichhehadhiddenbehindhiswriting-desk.ItwasafineSpanishflagwiththecoatofarmsembroideredingold.Idecidedthat,withwhateverelseImightpart,thatflagwouldalwaysbemine,thatthechanceofmyagainreceivingthesurrenderofatownoffivethousandpeoplewasslender,andthatthistokenwouldbewrappedaroundmeinmycoffin.Iaccordinglyhiditinmyponchoandstrappedittomysaddle.ThenIappointedahotel-keeper,whospokealittleEnglish,asmyofficialinterpreter,andtoldtheAlcaldethatIwasnowMilitaryGovernor,Mayor,andChiefofPolice,andthatIwantedthesealsofthetown.Hegavemearubberstampwithacoatofarmscutinit,andIwrotemyselfthreeletters,which,toinsuretheirsafearrival,Iaddressedtothreedifferentplaces,andstampedthemwiththerubberseals.Intimeallthreereachedme,andInowhavethemasdocumentaryproofofthefactthatfortwentyminutesIwasMilitaryGovernorandMayorofCoamo.DuringthatbriefadministrationIdetailedTitusandBreckenridgetowigwag

theSixteenthPennsylvania thatwehad taken the town, and that itwasnowsafe for them to enter. In order to compromise Paget they used his red silkhandkerchief. Root I detailed to conciliate the inhabitants by drinking witheveryoneof them.He tellsmehecarriedoutmy instructions to the letter. Ialso settled one assault and battery case, and put the chief offender underarrest.Atleast,Itoldtheofficialinterpretertoinformhimthathewasunderarrest,butasIhadnoonetoguardhimhegrewtiredofbeingunderarrestandwentofftocelebratehisemancipationfromtheruleofSpain.Myadministrationcame to anend in twentyminutes,whenGeneralWilsonrodeintoCoamoattheheadofhisstaffandthreethousandmen.Heworeawhitehelmet,andhelookedthepartoftheconqueringherososatisfactorilythatIforgotIwasMayorandranoutintothestreettosnapapictureofhim.HelookedgreatlysurprisedandaskedmewhatIwasdoinginhistown.Thetoneinwhichhespokecausedmetodecidethat,afterall,IwouldnotkeeptheflagofCoamo.Ipulleditoffmysaddleandsaid:“General,it’stoolongastorytotellyounow,buthereistheflagofthetown.It’sthefirstSpanishflag”anditwas“thathasbeencapturedinPortoRico.”GeneralWilsonsmiledagainandacceptedtheflag.Heandaboutfourthousandothersoldiersthinkitbelongstothem.Butthetruthwillout.SomedaythebestowalontheproperpersonsofavoteofthanksfromCongress,apension,oranyothertrifle,likeprize-money,willshowtheAmericanpeopletowhomthatflagreallybelongs.IknowthatintimethegloriousdeedofthesevenheroesofCoamo,oreight,ifyouinclude“Jimmy,”willbetoldinsongandstory.Someoneelsewillwritethesong.Thisisthestory.

IVTHEPASSINGOFSANJUANHILL

WhenIwasaboyIthoughtbattleswerefoughtinwasteplacesselectedforthepurpose.Iarguedfromthefactthatwhenourschoolninewishedtoplayballitwasforcedintothesuburbstosearchforavacantlot.Ithoughtopposingarmiesalsomarchedoutoftownuntiltheyreachedsomedesolatespotwheretherewerenowindowpanes,andwheretheircannon-ballswouldhurtnoonebutthemselves.Evenlater,whenIsawbattlesfoughtamongvillages,artillerygallopingthroughacornfield,gardenwallsbreachedforriflefire,andfarm-housesinflames,italwaysseemedasthoughthegeneralshadelectedtofightinsuchsurroundingsthroughaninexcusablestrivingaftertheatricaleffectasthoughtheywishedtofurnishthewarcorrespondentswithachancefordescriptivewriting.Withthehorrorsofwarashorribleastheyare

withoutanyaidfromthesecontrasts,theirpresencealwaysseemednotonlysinfulbutbadart;asunnecessaryasturningaredlightonthedyinggladiator.TherearesomanyplaceswhicharescenessetapartforbattlesplacesthatlookasthoughNaturehadcondemnedthemforjustsuchsacrifices.Colenso,withitsbarekopjesandgreatstretchofveldt,isoneofthese,andso,also,isSpionKop,and,inManchuria,NanShanHill.Thephotographshavemadeallofusfamiliarwiththevast,desolateapproachestoPortArthur.Theseareamongthewasteplacesoftheearthbarren,deserted,fitmeetinggroundsonlyformenwhoseobjectinlifeforthemomentistokillmen.Wereyoushownoveroneof these places, and told, “A battle was fought here,” you would answer,“Why,ofcourse!”ButdowninCuba,outsideofSantiago,wheretheUnitedStatesarmyfoughtitssolitaryandmodestbattlewithSpain,youmightmanytimespassbySanJuanHillandthinkofit,ifyouthoughtofitatall,asonlyaprettysiteforabungalow,asaplaceobviouslyintendedfororchardsandgardens.OnJulyst,twelveyearsago,whentheAmericanarmycameuponitoutofthejungletheplaceworeapartialdisguise.Itstillwasanirregularridgeofsmiling,sunnyhillswithfat,comfortablecurves,andinsomeplacesasteep,straightfront.Butabovethesteepest,highestfrontfrownedanaggressiveblock-house,andonalltheslopesandalongthesky-linewererowsofyellowtrenches,andatthebaseacruelcat’scradleofbarbedwire.Itwaslikethefaceofaprettywomanbehindthebarsofavisor.IfindthatonthedayofthefighttwelveyearsagoIcabledmypaperthatSanJuanHillremindedtheAmericansof“asunnyorchardinNewEngland.”Thatwashowitmayhavelookedwhentheregularswereclimbingupthesteepfronttocapturetheblock-house,andwhenthecavalryandRoughRiders,havingtakenKettleHill,wererunningdownitsoppositeslope,pastthelake,totakethatcrestofSanJuanHillwhichliestotherightoftheblock-house.ItmaythenhavelookedlikeasunnyNewEnglandorchard,butbeforenightfelltheintrenchingtoolshadlentthosesunnyslopes“afierceandterribleaspect.”Andafterthat,hourafterhour,anddayafterday,wesawthehilleatenupbyourtrenches,hiddenbyavastlaundryofsheltertents,andtornapartbybomb-proofs,theirjuttingroofsoflogsandbrokenbranchesweigheddownbyearthandstonesandlookinglikethepitmouthstomanymines.ThatprobablyishowmostoftheAmericanarmylastsawSanJuanHill, and that probably is how it bestremembersitasafortifiedcamp.Thatwastwelveyearsago.WhenIrevisitedit,SanJuanHillwasagainasunny,smilingfarmland,thetrenchesplantedwithvegetables,theroofsofthebomb-proofsfalleninandburiedbeneathcreepingvines,andthebarbed-wireentanglementsholdingincheckonlythebrowsingcattle.

SanJuanHillisnotasolitaryhill,butthemostprominentofaridgeofhills,with Kettle Hill a quarter of a mile away on the edge of the jungle andseparatedfromtheridgebyatinylake.InthelocalnomenclatureKettleHill,whichisthenamegiventoitbytheRoughRiders,hasalwaysbeenknownasSanJuanHill,withanaddedname todistinguish it fromtheotherSanJuanHillofgreaterrenown.Thedayswespentonthosehillsweresorichinincidentandinterestandwerefilled with moments of such excitement, of such pride in one’s fellow-countrymen,ofpity for thehurtanddying,of laughterandgood-fellowship,thatonesupposedhemightreturnaftereventwentyyearsandrecognizeeverydetailoftheground.Butashortertimehasmadestartlingandconfusingchanges.Nowavisitorwillfindthatnotuntilafterseveraldifferentvisits,andbywalkingandridingfootbyfootoverthehills,canhemakethemfallintolineashethinksheonceknewthem.ImmediatelyaroundSanJuanHillitselftherehasbeensomeattemptmadetopreservethegroundasapublicpark.Abarbed-wirefence,withagateway,encirclestheblock-house,whichhasbeenconvertedintoahomeforthecaretakerofthepark,andthen,skirtingtheroadtoSantiagotoincludethetreeunderwhichthesurrenderwasarranged,stretchestotheleftoftheblock-housetoprotectamonument.ThismonumentwaserectedbyAmericanstocommemoratethebattle.Itisnowrapidlyfallingtopieces,buttherestillisenoughofitintacttoshowthepencilledscribblingsandautographsoftouristswhodidnottakepartinthebattle,butwhointhispublicmannershowthattheyapproveofitsresults.Thepublicparkislessthanaquarterofamilesquare.ExceptforitnootherefforthasbeenmadeeitherbyCubansorAmericanstodesignatethelinesthatonceencircledandmenacedSantiago,andNature,alwaysatherbestunderatropicalsun,hasdoneallinherpowertodisguiseandforeverobliteratethesceneofthearmy’sonebattle.Thosefeatureswhichstillremainunchangedareveryfew.TheTreatyTree,nowsurroundedbyatallfence,isone,theblock-houseisanother.Thelittlelakeinwhich,evenwhenthebulletsweredropping,themenusedtobatheandwashtheirclothes,thebigironsugarkettlethatgaveanewnametoKettleHill,andhereandthereatrenchhardlydeeperthanaploughedfurrow,andnearlyhiddenbygrowingplants,arethefewlandmarksthatremain.OfthecampsofGeneralsChaffee,Lawton,Bates,Sumner,andWheeler,ofColonelsLeonardWoodandTheodoreRoosevelt,therearebuttheslightesttraces.TheBloodyBend,assomecallit,intheSanJuanRiver,assomecallthatstream,seemstohaveentirelydisappeared.Atleast,itcertainlywasnotwhereitshouldhavebeen,andtheplacethehotelguidespointouttounsuspectingtouristsbearsnottheslightestphysicalresemblancetothatford.Intwelveyears,duringoneofwhichtherehasbeeninSantiagothemost

severerainfallinsixtyyears,theSanJuanstreamhascarriedawayitsbanksandthetreesthatlinedthem,andthetrailsthatshouldmarkwherethefordoncecrossedhavesoalteredandsomanynewoneshavebeenadded,thattheexactlocationoftheoncefamousdressingstationisnowmostdifficult,ifnotimpossible,todetermine.Toestablishthesitesoftheoldcampinggroundsisbutlittlelessdifficult.Thehead-quartersofGeneralWheelerareeasytorecognize,forthereasonthattheplaceselectedwasinahollow,andthemostunhealthyspotalongthefivemilesofintrenchments.ItisaboutthirtyyardsfromwheretheroadturnstoriseovertheridgetoSantiago,andallthewaterfromthehillpoursintoitasintoarainbarrel.ItwasherethatTroopG,ThirdCavalry,underMajorHardee,asitwasWheeler’sescort,wasforcedtobivouac,andwhereone-thirdofitsnumbercamedownwithfever.ThecampofGeneralSamSumnerwassomesixtyyardstotherightofthehead-quartersofGeneralWheeler,onthehighshoulderofthehilljustabovethecampoftheengineers,whowereonthesideoftheroadopposite.ThecampsofGeneralsChaffee,Lawton,Hawkins,Ludlow,andthepositionsandtrenchestakenandheldbythedifferentregimentsunderthemonecanplaceonlyrelatively.OnereasonforthisisthatbeforeourarmyattackedthehillsalltheunderbrushandsmalltreesthatmightconcealtheadvanceofourmenhadbeenclearedawaybytheSpaniards,leavingthehill,exceptforthehighcrest,comparativelybare.To-daythehillsarethickwithyoungtreesandenormousbushes.Thealterationinthelandscapeisasmarkedasisthedifferencebetweengroundclearedforgolfandthesamespotplantedwithcornandfruit-trees.Of all the camps, the one that to-day bears the strongest evidencesofitsoccupationisthatoftheRoughRiders.Apartofthecampofthatregiment,whichwassituatedontheridgesomehundredfeetfromtheSantiagoroad,waspitchedunderaclumpofshadetrees,andto-day,evenaftersevenyears,thetrunksofthesetreesbearthenamesandinitialsofthemenwhocampedbeneaththem.Thesemenwillrememberthatwhentheytookthishilltheyfoundthatthefortificationsbeneaththetreeswerepartlymadefromthefoundationsofanadobehouse.Theredtilesfromitsroofstilllittertheground.Thesetilesandthenamescutinthebarkofthetreesdetermineabsolutelythesiteofone-halfofthecamp,buttheotherhalf,wherestoodTiffany’squick-firinggunandParker’sGatling,hasbeenalmostobliterated.ThetreeunderwhichColonelpitchedhistentIcouldnotdiscover,andthetrenchesinwhichheusedtositwithhisofficersandwiththeofficersfromtheregimentsoftheregulararmyarenowlevelledtomakeakitchen-garden.Sometimestheex-PresidentissaidtohavetoogenerouslygivenofficeandpromotiontothefriendshemadeinCuba.Thesemenhemetinthetrencheswerethennotnecessarilyhisfriends.To-daytheyarenotnecessarilyhisfriends.Theyarethementhefreelifeoftherifle-pitsenabledhimtoknowandtounderstandasthesettledrelationsofhomelifeandpeacewouldnever

havepermitted.Atthattimenoneofthemguessedthatthe“amateurcolonel,”towhomtheytalkedfreelyastoacomrade,wouldbetheirCommander-in-Chief.TheydidnotsuspectthathewouldbecomeeventhenextGovernorofNewYork,certainlynotthatinafewyearshewouldbethePresidentoftheUnitedStates.Sotheyshowedthemselvestohimfrankly,unconsciously.Theycriticised, argued, disagreed, and he became familiar with the views,character, and worth of each, and remembered. The seeds planted in thosehalf-obliteratedtrencheshavebornegreaterresultsthaneverwillthekitchen-garden.Thekitchen-gardenisimmediatelyonthecrestofthehill,andnearitaCubanfarmerhasbuiltashackofmudandtwigsandcultivatedseveralacresofland.OnKettleHilltherearethreemoresuchshacks,andoverallthehillsthenewtenantshavestrungstoutbarbed-wirefencesandmadenewtrailsandrearedwoodengateways.Itwascurioustofindhowgreatlythesemodernimprovementsconfusedone’srecollectionofthelandscape,anditwasinteresting,also,tofindhowthepresenceonthehillsof , men and theexcitementofthetimemagnifieddistancesanddisarrangedthelandscape.DuringthefightIwalkedalongaportionoftheSantiagoroad,andformanyyearsIalwayshavethoughtofthatwalkasextendingoverimmensedistances.ItstartedfromthetopofSanJuanHillbesidetheblock-house,whereIhadclimbedtowatchourartilleryinaction.Byamistake,theartilleryhadbeensentthere,anditremainedexposedonthecrestonlyaboutthreeminutes.DuringthatbriefmomenttheblackpowderitburneddrewuponitthefireofeveryrifleintheSpanishline.Toloadhispiece,eachofourmenwasforcedtocrawltoitonhisstomach,riseononeelbowinordertoshoveintheshellandlockthebreech,andthen,stillflatontheground,wrigglebelowthecrest.Inthethreeminutesthreemenwerewoundedandtwokilled;andthegunswerewithdrawn.Ialsowithdrew.Iwithdrewfirst.Indeed,allthathappenedafterthefirstthreesecondsofthosethreeminutesishearsay,forIwasintheSantiagoroadatthefootofthehillandretreatingbriskly.Thisroadalsowasunderacross-fire,whichmadeitstretchineitherdirectiontoaninterminabledistance.IrememberagovernmentteamsterdrivingaStudebakerwagonfilledwithammunitioncomingupatagallopoutofthisinterminabledistanceandseekingshelteragainstthebaseofthehill.Seatedbesidehimwasasmallboy,freckledandsunburned,astowawayfromoneofthetransports.Hewasgrandlyhappyandexcited,andhisonlyfearwasthathewasnot“underfire.”Fromourcoignofsafety,withourbackstothehill,theteamsterandIassuredhimthat,onthatpoint,heneedfeelnomorbiddoubt.Butuntilabulletembeddeditselfintheblueboardofthewagonhewasnotconvinced.Thenwithhisjack-knifehedugitoutandshoutedwithpleasure.“IguessthefolkswillhavetobelieveIwasinabattlenow,”hesaid.Thatcoign of safety

ceasingtobeacoignofsafetycausedustomoveoninsearchofanother,andIcameuponSergeantBorroweblockingtheroadwithhisdynamitegun.Heandhisbrotherandthreeregularswerebusilycorrectingahitchinitsmechanism.Anofficercarryinganorderalongthelinehaltedhissweatinghorseandgazedatthestrangegunwithprofessionalknowledge.“ThatmustbethedynamitegunIhaveheardsomuchabout,”heshouted.Borrowesalutedandshoutedassent.Theofficer,greatlyinterested,forgothiserrand.“I’dliketoseeyoufireitonce,”hesaideagerly.Borrowe, delighted at thechance to exhibit his toy to a professional soldier, beamed with equaleagerness.“Injustamoment,sir,”hesaid;“thisshellseemstohavejammedabit.”Theofficer, for the first time seeing the shell stuck in the breech, hurriedlygathered up his reins. He seemed to be losing interest. With elaboratecarelessnessIbegantoedgeoffdowntheroad.“Wait,”Borrowebegged;“we’llhaveitoutinaminute.”SuddenlyIheardtheofficer’svoiceraisedwildly.“Whatwhat,”hegasped,“isthatmandoingwiththataxe?”“He’shelpingmetogetoutthisshell,”saidBorrowe.“GoodGod!”saidtheofficer.Thenherememberedhiserrand.Untillastyear,whenIagainmetyoungBorrowegaylydisportinghimselfatalawn-tennistournamentatMattapoisett,Ididnotknowwhetherhisbrother’smethodofremovingdynamitewithanaxehadbeenentirelysuccessful.Hesaiditworkedallright.AttheturnoftheroadIfoundColonelLeonardWoodandagroupofRoughRiders, whowere busily intrenching.AtthesamemomentStephenCranecameupwith“Jimmy”Hare,themanwhohasmadetheRussian-JapaneseWarfamous.Cranewalkedtothecrestandstoodthereassharplyoutlinedasasemaphore,observingtheenemy’slines,andinstantlybringinguponhimselfandus thefireofmanyMausers.Withevery oneelse,WoodwascrouchedbelowthecrestandshoutedtoCranetoliedown.Crane, still standing, asthoughtogetoutofear-shot,movedaway,andWoodagainorderedhimtoliedown.“You’redrawingthefireonthesemen,”Woodcommanded.Althoughtheheatitwas the st of July in the tropicswasterrific,CraneworealongIndia

rubberrain-coatandwassmokingapipe.Heappearedascoolasthoughhewerelookingdownfromaboxatatheatre.IknewthattoCrane,anythingthatsavoredofaposewashateful,so,asIdidnotwanttoseehimkilled,Icalled,“You’renotimpressinganyonebydoingthat,Crane.”AsIhopedhewould,heinstantlydroppedtohisknees.Whenhecrawledover towherewelay,Iexplained,“Iknewthatwouldfetchyou,”andhegrinned,andsaid,“Oh,wasthatit?”AcaptainofthecavalrycameuptoWoodandaskedpermissiontowithdrawhistroopfromthetopofthehilltoatrenchfortyfeetbelowtheonetheywerein.“Theycan’tpossiblylivewheretheyarenow,”heexplained,“andthey’redoing no good there, for they can’t raise their heads to fire. In that lowertrenchtheywouldbeoutofrangethemselvesandwouldbeabletofireback.”“Yes,” saidWood, “but all theothermen in the first trenchwould see themwithdraw,andthemoraleffectwouldbebad.Theyneedn’tattempttoreturntheenemy’sfire,buttheymustnotretreat.”Theofficerlookedasthoughhewouldliketoargue.HewasaWestPointgraduateandafull-fledgedcaptainintheregulararmy.Tohim,Wood,inspiteofhisvolunteerrankofcolonel,whichthatday,owingtotheillnessofGeneralYoung,hadplacedhimincommandofabrigade,wasstilladoctor.Butdisciplinewasstronginhim,andthoughhelookedmanythings,herosefromhiskneesandgrimlysaluted.Butatthatmoment,withoutwaitingforthepermissionofanyone,themenleapedoutofthetrenchandran.Itlookedasthoughtheyweregoingtorunallthewaytothesea,andthesightwassickening.Buttheyhadnointentionofrunningtothesea.Theyranonlytothetrenchfortyfeetfartherdownandjumpedintoit,andinstantlyturning,beganpumpingleadattheenemy.SincefivethatmorningWoodhadbeenrunningaboutonhisfeet,hisclothesstucktohimwithsweatandthemudandwateroffordedstreams,andasherosehelimpedslightly.“My,butI’mtired!”hesaid,inatoneofthemostacutesurprise,andasthoughthatfactwastheonlyonethatwasweighingonhismind.Helimpedovertothetrenchinwhichthemenwerenowbusilyfiringofftheirriflesandwavedariding-crophecarriedatthetrenchtheyhadabandoned.HewasstandingasCranehadbeenstanding,insilhouetteagainstthesky-line.“Comeback,boys,”weheardhimshouting.“Theothermencan’twithdraw,andsoyoumustn’t.Itlooksbad.Comeon,getoutofthat!”Whatmadeitmoreamusingwasthat,althoughWoodhad,likeeveryoneelse,discardedhiscoatandworeastrangeuniformofgrayshirt,whiteriding-breeches,andacowboyStetson,withnoinsigniaofrank,notevenstrapspinnedtohisshirt,stillthemeninstantlyacceptedhisauthority.Theylookedathimonthecrestofthehill,wavinghisstickpersuasivelyatthegrave-liketrenchathisfeet,andthenwithashout

scamperedbacktoit.RoughRidersinthetrenchesThesamespotasitappearsto-day.ThefigureinthepictureisstandinginwhatremainsofthetrenchAfterthat,asIhadabadattackofsciaticaandnoplacetosleepandnothingtoeat, I acceptedCrane’s offer of a blanket and coffee at his bivouac near ElPoso.OnaccountofthesciaticaIwasnotabletowalkfast,and,althoughforoveramileofthewaythetrailwasunderfire,CraneandHareeachinsistedongivingmeanarm,andkeptstepwithmystumblings.WheneverIprotestedandrefusedtheirsacrificeandpointedouttherisktheyweretakingtheysmiledasattheravingsofanaughtychild,andwhenIlaydownintheroadandrefusedtobudgeunlesstheyleftme,CranecalledtheattentionofHaretotheeffectofthesettingsunbehindthepalm-trees.Tothereaderalltheselittlethingsthatoneremembersseemverylittleindeed,buttheywerevividatthemoment,andIhavealwaysthoughtofthemasstretchingoveralongextentoftimeandterritory.BeforeIrevisitedSanJuanIwouldhavesaidthatthedistancealongtheroadfromthepointwhereIlefttheartillerytowhereIjoinedWoodwasthree-quartersofamile.WhenIpaceditlaterIfoundthedistancewasaboutseventy-fiveyards.Idonoturgemystupidityormyextremeterrorasaproofthatotherswouldbeasgreatlyconfused,but,ifonlyforthesakeofthestupidones,itseemsapitythatthelandmarksofSanJuanshouldnotberescuedfromthejungle,andafewsign-postsplaceduponthehills.ItistruethatthegreatbattlesoftheCivilWarandthoseoftheoneinManchuria,wherethemenkilledandwoundedinadayoutnumberallthosewhofoughtonbothsidesatSanJuan,makethatbattlereadlikeaskirmish.ButtheSpanishWarhaditsresults.AtleastitmadeCubaintoarepublic,andsoenrichedorburdeneduswithcoloniesthatourrepublicchangedintosomethinglikeanempire.ButIdonoturgethat.ItwillneverbebecauseSanJuanchangedourforeignpolicythatpeoplewillvisitthespot,andwillsendfromitpicturepostalcards.ThehumaninterestalonewillkeepSanJuanalive.ThemenwhofoughttherecamefromeveryStateinourcountryandfromeveryclassofoursociallife.Wesenttherethebestofourregulararmy,andwiththem,cowboys,clerks,bricklayers,foot-ballplayers,threefuturecommandersofthegreaterarmythatfollowedthatwar,thefutureGovernorofCuba,futurecommandersofthePhilippines,thecommanderofourforcesinChina,afuturePresidentoftheUnitedStates.And,whetherthesemen,whentheyreturnedtotheirhomesagain,becameclerksandmillionairesanddentists,orrosetobepresidentsandmountedpolicemen,theyallrememberverykindlythedaystheylayhuddledtogetherinthetrenchesonthathotandglaringsky-line.Andtheremustbemanymorebesideswhoholdtheplacein

memory.TherearefewintheUnitedStatessopoorinrelativesandfriendswhodidnotinhisorherheartsendasubstitutetoCuba.FortheseitseemsasthoughSanJuanmightbebetterpreserved,notasitis,foralreadyitsaspectistoofarchangedtowishforthat,butasitwas.TheeffortsalreadymadetokeeptheplaceinmemoryandtohonortheAmericanswhodiedtherearethepublicparkwhichIhavementioned,themonumentonSanJuan,andoneothermonumentatGuasimastotheregularsandRoughRiderswhowerekilledthere.TothesemonumentstheSocietyofSantiagowilladdfourmore,whichwillmarkthelandingplaceofthearmyatDaiquairi and the fights atGuasimas,ElCaney,andSanJuanHill.ButIbelieveevenmorethanthismightbedonetopreservetotheplaceitspropervalues.Thesevaluesaresentimental,historical,andpossiblytothemilitarystudent,educational.Ifto-daytherewereerectedatDaiquairi,Siboney,Guasimas,ElPoso,ElCaney,andonandaboutSanJuanadozenironorbronzetabletsthatwouldtellfromwherecertainregimentsadvanced,whatpoststheyheld,howmanyorhowfewwerethemenwhoheldthosepositions,howneartheyweretothetrenchesoftheenemy,andbywhomthesemenwerecommanded,Iamsuretheplacewouldreconstructitselfandwouldbreathewithinterest,notonlyforthereturningvolunteer,butforanycasualtourist.Asitis,thehistoryofthefightandthereputationofthemenwhofoughtisnowatthemercyofthecaretakeroftheparkandtheCuban“guides”fromthehotel.ThecaretakerspeaksonlySpanish,and,consideringtheamountofmisinformationtheguidesdisseminate,itisapitywhentheyaretalkingtoAmericans,theyarenotforcedtousethesamelanguage.WhenlastIvisitedit,CarlosPortuondowastheofficialguardianofSanJuanHill.HeisanagedCuban,andhefoughtthroughtheTenYears’War,butduringthelastinsurrectionandtheSpanish-AmericanWarhenotonlywasnotnearSanJuan,butwasnotevenontheIslandofCuba.Heisacharmingoldperson,andsoishisagedwife.Theirchiefconcerninlife,whenIsawthem,wastosellmeapairofbreechesmadeofpalm-fibrewhichCarloshadwornthroughouttheentiretenyearsofbattle.Thevicissitudesofthosetrousersherecitedtomeingreatdetail,andheveryproperlyregardedthemasofhistoricvalue.ButofwhathappenedatSanJuanheknewnothing,andwhenIaskedhimwhyheheldhispresentpostandoccupiedtheBlock-House,hesaid,“Tokeepthecowsoutofthepark.”WhenIaskedhimwheretheAmericanshadcamped,hepointedcarefullyfromthebackdooroftheBlock-Housetothefootofhiskitchen-garden.IassuredhimthatundernostressofterrorcouldtheentireAmericanarmyhavebeendrivenintohisbackyard,andpointedoutwhereithadstretchedalongtheridgeofhillsforfivemiles.HepolitelybutunmistakablyshowedthathethoughtIwasaliar.FromtheVenusHotelthereweretwoguides,oldCasanovaandJeanCasanova,hislanguidandgood-naturedson,ayouthofsixteenyears.OldCasanova,likemostCubans,isnot

inclinedtogivemuchcreditforwhattheydidinCubatotheAmericans.Afterall,hesays,theycameonlyjustastheCubansthemselveswereabouttoconquertheSpaniards,andbyaluckychancereceivedthesurrenderandthenclaimedallthecredit.AsotherCubanstoldme,“HadtheAmericansleftusaloneafewweekslonger,wewouldhaveendedthewar.”HowtheyweretohavetakenHavana,andsunkCervera’sfleet,andwhytheywerenotamongthosepresentwhenourmenchargedSanJuan,Ididnotinquire.OldCasanova,againlikeotherCubans,ranksthefightingqualitiesoftheSpaniardmuchhigherthanthoseoftheAmerican.Thisisonlyhuman.ItmustbeannoyingtoaCubantorememberthatafterhehadforthreeyearsfoughttheSpaniard,theYankeeineightweeksreceivedhissurrenderandbegantoshiphimhome.ThewayCasanovadescribesthefightatElCaneyisasfollows:“TheAmericansthoughttheycouldcaptureElCaneyinoneday,butthebraveGeneralToralfoughtsogoodthatitwassixdaysbeforetheAmericanscouldmaketheSpaniardssurrender.”Thestatementiscorrectexceptasregardsthelengthoftimeduringwhichthefightlasted.TheAmericansdidmakethemistakeofthinkingtheycouldeatupElCaneyinanhourandthenmarchthroughittoSanJuan.OwingtothesplendidcourageofToralandhisfewtroopsoursoldiers,undertwoofourbestgenerals,wereheldincheckfromseveninthemorninguntiltwointheafternoon.Butthedifferencebetweensevenhoursofonedayandsixdaysisconsiderable.Still,atpresentatSanJuanthatisthesortofinformationuponwhichthepatrioticandpuzzledAmericantouristisfed.YoungCasanova, the only other authority in Santiago, is not sosureofhisfactsasishisfather,andiswillingtolearn.HewentwithmetoholdmyponywhileItookthephotographsthataccompanythisarticle,andIlistenedwithgreatinteresttohisaccountsofthebattle.Finallyhemadeastatementthatwascorrect.“Howdidyouhappentogetthatright?”Iasked.“Yesterday,”hesaid,“IguidedColonelHayeshere,andwhileIguidedhimheexplainedittome.”

THESOUTHAFRICANWARIWITHBULLER’SCOLUMN

“Wereyouthestation-masterherebeforethis?”Iaskedthemaninthestrawhat,atColenso.“Imeanbeforethiswar?”“Nofear!”snortedthestation-master,scornfully.“Why,wedidn’tknowColensowasonthelineuntilBullerfoughtabattlehere.That’showitiswithalltheseway-stationsnow.Everybody’stalkingaboutthem.Wenevertooknonoticetothem.”

Andyetthearrivingstrangermighthavebeenforgivenhispointofviewandhis start of surprisewhen he foundChieveley a place of only a half dozencorrugatedzinchuts,andColensoa scatteredgatheringofadozenshatteredhousesofbatteredbrick.Chieveleyseemedsoinsignificantincontrastwithitsfametothosewhohadfollowedthewaronmapsandinthenewspapers,thatonewasnotsurehewasontherightroaduntilhesawfromthecar-windowthearmoredtrainstilllyingon theembankment, thegravesbeside it, and thedonga intowhichWinstonChurchillpulledandcarriedthewounded.Andasthetrainbumpedandhaltedbeforetheblueandwhiteenamelsignthatmarks Colenso station, the places which have made that spot familiar andmomentousfellintolinelikethebuoyswhichmarktheentrancetoaharbor.WeknewthatthehighbareridgetotherightmustbeFortWylie,thattheplainon the leftwaswhereColonelLonghad lost his artillery, and threeofficersgainedtheVictoriaCross,andthattheswift,muddystream,inwhichtheironrailroadbridgelayhumpedandsprawling,wastheTugelaRiver.Sixhoursbefore,atFrereStation,thestation-masterhadawakenedustosaythatLadysmithwouldberelievedatanymoment.Thishadbutjustcomeoverthewire.Itwas“official.”Indeed,headded,withlocalpride,thatthevillagebandwasstillawakeandinreadinesstocelebratetheimminentevent.Hefound,Ifear,anunsympatheticaudience.Thetrainwascarryingphilanthropicgentlemeninchargeofstoresofchampagneandmarmaladeforthebesiegedcity.Theydidnotwantittoberelieveduntiltheyweretheretosubstitutepâtédefoiegrasforhorseflesh.Andtherewereofficers,too,whowanteda“lookin,”andwhohadbeenkeptwaitingatCapeTownforcommissions,gladdeningtheguestsoftheMountNelsonHotelthewhilewiththeirnewkhakiandgaiters,andtherewereTommies who wanted “Relief ofLadysmith” on the claps of their medals, as they had seen “Relief ofLucknow”onthemedalsoftheChelseapensioners.Andtherewasacorrespondentwhohadjourneyed,milestoseeLadysmithrelieved,andwhowasapparentlygoingtomissthatsight,afterfiveweeksoftravel,byamarginoffivehours.Weallgrowled“That’sgood,”aswehaddone for the last twoweekseverytime we had heard it was relieved, but our tone was not enthusiastic. AndwhenthecaptainoftheNatalCarbineerssaid,“Iamafraidthegoodnewsistoopremature,”weallsaid,hopefully,wewereafraiditwas.Wehadseennothingyetthatwaslikerealwar.ThatnightatPietermaritzburg

theofficersatthehotelwereinmess-jackets,theofficers’wivesindinner-gowns.ItwaslikeShepheard’sHotel,atthetopoftheseason.Butonlysixhoursafterthatdinner,aswelookedoutofthecar-windows,wesawgallopingacrossthehighgrass,likemenwhohadlosttheirway,andsilhouettedblackagainsttheredsunrise,countlesshorsemenscoutingaheadofourtrain,andguardingitagainstthefateofthearmoredonelyingwreckedatChieveley.Thedarknesswasstillheavyonthelandandtheonlylightsweretheredeyesof the armored train creeping in advance of ours, and the red sun, whichshowedoursilentescortappearingsuddenlyagainstthesky-lineonaridge,orgallopingtowardusthroughthedewtoorderus,withawaveofthehand,togreaterspeed.Onehouraftersunrise the traindrewupatColenso,andfromonlyamileawayweheardtheheavythudofthenavalguns,thehammeringoftheBoer“pom-poms,”andtheMaximsandColtautomaticsspankingtheair.Wesmiledateachotherguiltily.Wewereon time. Itwasmost evident thatLadysmithhadnotbeenrelieved.ThiswasthetwelfthdayofabattlethatBuller’scolumnwaswagingagainsttheBoersandtheirmountainranges,or“disarranges,”assomeonedescribedthem,withouthavinggainedmorethanthreemilesofhostileterritory.Hehadtriedtoforcehiswaythroughthemsixtimes,andhadbeenrepulsedsixtimes.Andnowhewastotryitagain.No map, nor photograph, nor written description can give an idea of thecountrywhich laybetweenBullerandhisgoal.Itwasaneruptionofhighhills,linkedtogetherateverypointwithoutorderorsequence.Inmostcountriesmountainsandhillsfollowsomenaturallaw.TheCordillerascanbetracedfromtheAmazonRivertoGuatemalaCity;theymakethewater-shedoftwocontinents;theGreatDivideformsthebackboneoftheStates,buttheseNatalhillshavenolinealdescent.Theyareillegitimatechildrenofnoline,abandonedbroadcastoverthecountry,withnofamilylikenessandnohome.Theystandalone,orshouldertoshoulder,oratrightangles,oratatangent,orjoinhandsacrossavalley.Theyneverappearthesame;someruntoasharppoint,somestretchout,formingatable-land,othersaregiganticant-hills,othersperfectandaccuratelymodelledramparts.Inarideofhalfamile,everyhillcompletelylosesitsoriginalaspectandcharacter.Theyhideeachother,ordisguiseeachother.Eachcanbeenfiladedbytheother,andnotonegivesupthesecretofitsstrategicvalueuntilitscresthasbeencarriedbythebayonet.Toaddtothisconfusion,theriverTugelahasselectedthehillsaroundLadysmithasoccupyingthecountrythroughwhichitwillendeavortothrowoffitspursuers.Itdartsthroughthemasthoughstrivingtoescape,itdoublesonitstracks,itsinksoutofsightbetweenthem,andintheopenplainrisestothedignityofwater-falls.Itrunsuphill,and

remainsmotionlessonanincline,andonthelevelgroundtwistsandturnssofrequentlythatwhenonesayshehascrossedtheTugela,hemeanshehascrosseditonceatadrift,onceatthewreckedrailroadbridge,andonceoverapontoon.Andthenheisnotsurethatheisnotstillonthesamesidefromwhichhestarted.Someofthesehillsaregreen,butthegreaterpartareayellowordarkred,againstwhichattwohundredyardsamaninkhakiisindistinguishablefromtherocksaroundhim.Indeed,thekhakiistheEnglishsoldier’ssoleprotection.Itsaveshiminspiteofhimself,forheapparentlycannotlearntoadvanceundercover,andasky-lineistheoneplacewhereheselectstostanderectandstretchhiswearylimbs.IhavecometowithinahundredyardsofahillbeforeIsawthatscatteredamongitsredandyellowbowlders was thebetter part of a regiment as closely packed together as the crowd on thebleachingboardsatabase-ballmatch.Into this maze and confusion of nature’s fortifications Buller’scolumnhasbeentwistingandturning,marchingandcountermarching,capturingonepositionafteranother,tofinditwasenfiladedfrommanyhills,andabandoningit,onlytoretakeitaweeklater.Thegreaterpartofthecolumnhasabandoneditstentsandisbivouackingintheopen.Itisawonderfulandimpressivesight.Atthefirstview,anarmyinbeing,whenitisspreadoutasitisintheTugelabasinbackofthehills,seemsahopelesslyandirrevocablyentangledmob.Anarmyinthefieldisnotregimentsofarmedmen,marchingwithagunonshoulder,orcrouchingbehindtrenches.Thatistheleast,evenifitseemsthemost,importantpartofit.Beforeonereachesthefiring-linehemustpassvillagesofmen,campsofmen,bivouacsofmen,whoarefeeding,mending,repairing,andburyingthemenatthe“front.”Itistheselatterthatmakethemobofgypsies,whichisapparentlywithoutheadororderororganization.TheystretchedacrossthegreatbasinoftheTugela,likethechildrenofIsrael,theircamp-firesrisingtotheskyatnightlikethereflectionofgreatsearch-lights;bydaytheyswarmedacrosstheplain,likehundredsofmovingcircus-vansineverydirection,withaslittleobviousintentionasherdsofbuffalo.Buteachhadhisappointedwork,andeachwasutterlyindifferenttothebattlegoingforwardamileaway.Hundredsofteams,ofsixteenoxeneach,crawledlikegreatblackwater-snakesacrossthedrifts,theKaffirdrivers,nakedandblack,lashingthemwithwhipsaslongaslariats, shrieking, beseeching, andhowling,andfallingupontheoxen’shornstodragthemintoplace.MulesfromSpainandTexas,loadedwithammunition,kickedandplunged,moreoxendrewmoresoberlythegreatnavalguns,whichlurchedasthoughinaheavysea,throwingtheblue-jacketswhohunguponthedrag-ropesfrom

onehighsideofthetrailtotheother.Acrosstheplain,andmakingtowardthetrail,wagonsloadedwithfodder,withrations,withcampequipment,withtentsandcooking-stoves,crowdedeachotherascloselyascable-carsonBroadway.Scatteredamongthemwerefixedlinesoftetheredhorses,rowsofdog-tents,campsofKaffirs,hospitalstationswiththeRedCrosswavingfromthenearestandhighesttree.Drippingwater-cartswithasmanyspigotsastheregimenthadcompanies,howitzergunsguidedbyasmanyropesasaMay-pole,crowdedpastthesetothetrail,orgavewaytotheambulancesfilledwithmenhalf dressedandboundinthezinc-bluebandagesthatmadethecolordetestableforeverafter.Troopsoftheirregularhorsegallopthroughthismultitude,withajanglingofspursandsling-belts;andTommies,incloseorder,fighttheirwayamongtheoxen,orhelppullthemtoonesideasthestretcherspass,eachwithitsburden,eachwithitsbluebandagestainedadarkbrownishcrimson.Itisonlywhenthefigureonthestretcherliesunderablanketthatthetumultandpushandswelteringmasscomestoaquickpause,whilethedeadman’scomradestandsatattention,andtheofficerraiseshisfingerstohishelmet.Thenthemasssurgesonagain,withcrackingofwhipsandshoutsandimprecations,whiletheyellowdustrisesinthickcloudsandburiesthepictureinaglaringfog.Thismoving,strugglingmass, that fightsfortherightofwayalongtheroad,iswithineasydistanceoftheshells.Thosefromtheirowngunspassoverthemwithashrillcrescendo,thosefromtheenemyburstamongthematrareintervals,orsinkimpotentlyinthesoftsoil.AndadozenTommiesrushtodigthemoutaskeepsakes.Upatthefront,brownandyellowregimentsarelyingcrouchedbehindbrownandyellowrocksandstones.Asfarasyoucansee,thehillsaresownwiththem.Withaglassyoudistinguishthemagainstthesky-lineofeveryhill,foroverthreemilesaway.Sometimesthemenriseandfire,andthereisafeverishflutterofmusketry;sometimestheyliemotionlessforhourswhilethegunsmakethewaysstraight.AnyonewhohasseenEpsomDownsonaDerbyday,withitsthousandsofvansandtentsandlinesofhorsesandmovingmobs,canformsomeideaofwhatitislike.ButwhileattheDerbyallisinterestandexcitement,andeveryoneispushingandstruggling,andtheairpalpitateswiththeintoxicationofagreatevent,thewinningofahorse-racehere,wheremenarekilledeveryhourandnooneofthemknowswhenhisturnmaycome,thefactthatmostimpressesyouistheirindifferencetoitall.WhatstrikesyoumostistheboredairoftheTommies,theundividedinterestoftheengineersintheconstructionofapontoonbridge,thesolicitudeofthemedicalstaffoverthelonglinesofwounded,therageofthenakedKaffirsattheirlumberingsteers;thefactthateveryoneisintentonsomethinganythingbutthebattle.Theyareweariedwithbattles.TheTommiesstretchthemselvesinthesunto

drythewetkhakiinwhichtheyhavelainoutinthecoldnightforweeks,andyawnatbattles.Or,ifyouclimbtothehillwheretheofficersareseated,youwillfindmensteepedevendeeperinboredom.Theyareburnedadarkred;theirbrownmustacheslookwhitebycontrast,theirsarethesamefacesyouhavemetwithinPiccadilly,whichyouseeacrossthetablesoftheSavoyrestaurant,whichgazedepressedlyfromthewindowsofWhite’sandtheBachelors’Club.Iftheywereboredthen,theyareunbearablyborednow.Belowthemthemenoftheirregimentliecrouchedamidthebowlders, hardlydistinguishablefromthebrownandyellowrock.Theyaresleeping,ordozing,or yawning. A shell passes over them like the shaking of many telegraphwires,andneitherofficernorTommyraiseshisheadtowatchitstrike.Theyaretiredinbodyandinmind,withcrampedlimbsandachingeyes.Theyhavehadtwelvenightsandtwelvedaysofbattle,andithaslostitspowertoamuse.When the sergeants call the companies together, they are eager enough.Anythingisbetterthanlyingstilllookingupatthesunny,inscrutablehills,ordownintotheplaincrawlingwithblackoxen.Among the group of staff officers some onehaslostacigar-holder.Ithasslippedfrombetweenhisfingers,and,withthevindictivenessofinanimatethings,hasslidandjumpedunderapileofrocks.Theinterestofallaroundisinstantlycentredonthelostcigar-holder.TheTommiesbegintorolltherocksaway,endangeringthelimbsofthemenbelowthem,andhalfthekopjeisobliterated.Theyareaskeenasterriersafterarat.Theofficerssitaboveandgiveadviceanddisagreeastowherethatcigar-holderhiditself.Overtheirheads,nottwentyfeetabove,theshellschaseeachotherfiercely.Buttheofficershavebecomeaccustomedtoshells;asearchforalostcigar-holder,whichisgoingonundertheirveryeyes,isofgreaterinterest.AndwhenatlastaTommypouncesuponitwithalaughoftriumph,theofficerslooktheirdisappointment,and,withasighofresignation,pickuptheirfield-glasses.Itisallaquestionoffamiliarity.OnBroadway,ifabuildingisgoingupwherethereisachanceofaloosebrickfallingonsomeone’shead,thecontractorputsupredsignsmarked“Danger!”andyoudodgeovertotheotherside.Butifyouhadbeeninbattlefortwelvedays,ashavethesoldiersofBuller’scolumn,passingshellswouldinterestyounomorethandopassingcable-cars.AftertwelvedaysyouwouldforgetthatshellsaredangerousevenasyouforgetwhencrossingBroadwaythatcable-carscankillandmangle.Uponthehighesthill,seatedamongthehighestrocks,areGeneralBullerandhisstaff.Thehillisallofrocks,sharp,brownrocks,asclearlycutasfoundation-stones.Theyarethrownaboutatirregularangles,andareshadedonlybystiffbayonet-likecacti.Aboveisablueglaringsky,intowhichthetopofthekopjeseemstoreach,andtodrawandconcentrateuponitselfallof

thesun’sheat.Thislittlejaggedpointofblisteringrocksholdstheforcesthatpressthebuttonwhichsetsthestrugglingmassbelow,andthethousandsofmenuponthesurroundinghills,inmotion.Itistheconningtowerofthereliefcolumn,only,unlikeaconningtower,itoffersnoprotection,noseclusion,nopeace.To-day,commandinggenerals,underthenewconditionswhichthiswarhasdeveloped,donotchargeuphillswavingflashingswords.Theysitonrocks,andwinkouttheirordersbyaflashinghand-mirror.Theswordshavebeenleftatthebase,orcoateddeepwithmud,sothattheyshallnotflash,andwiththiscolumneveryone,undertherankofgeneral,carriesarifleonpurposetodisguisethefactthatheisentitledtocarryasword.Thekopjeisthecentralstationofthesystem.Fromitsuncomfortableeminencethecommandinggeneralwatchesthedevelopmentsofhisattack,anddirectsitbyheliographandraggedbitsofbunting.Asweating,dirtyTommyturnshisbackonahillamileawayandslapstheairwithhissignalflag;anotherTommy,withthefrontvisorofhishelmetcockedoverthebackofhisneck,watchesanansweringbitofbuntingthroughaglass.Thebitofbunting,amileaway,flashesimpatiently,oncetotherightandoncetotheleft,andtheTommywiththeglasssays,“Theyunderstand,sir,”andtheotherTommy,whohasnotasyetcastevenaninterestedglanceattheregimenthehasorderedintoaction,foldshisflagandcurlsupagainstahotrockandinstantlysleeps.Stuckon thecrest, twentyfeet fromwhereGeneralBullerisseated,aretwoironrods,likethoseintheputting-greenofagolfcourse.Theymarkthelineofdirectionwhichashellmusttake,inordertoseekouttheenemy.Backofthekopje,wheretheycannotseetheenemy,wheretheycannotevenseethehilluponwhichheisintrenched,arethehowitzers.Theirdutyistoaimattheironrods,andvarytheiraimtoeithersideofthemastheyaredirectedtodobyanofficeronthecrest.Theirshellspassafewyardsovertheheadsofthestaff,butthestaffhasconfidence.Thosethreeyardsareassafeamarginasahundred.Theirconfidenceisthatoftheladyinspanglesatamusic-hall,whopermitsherhusbandinbuckskintoshootapplesfromthetopofherhead.FromtheotherdirectioncometheshellsoftheBoers,seekingoutthehiddenhowitzers.Theypasssomewhathigher,crashingintothebaseofthekopje,sometimeskilling,sometimesdiggingtheirownignominiousgraves.Thestaffregardthemwiththesameindifference.OneofthemtearstheovercoatuponwhichColonelStuart-Wortleyisseated,anotherdestroyshisdiary.Hismen,lyingathisfeetamongtheredrocks,observethiswithwideeyes.Buthedoesnotshifthisposition.Hisansweris,thathismencannotshifttheirs.OnFriday,Februaryd, the Inniskillings,Dublins,andConnaughtsweresentouttotakeatrench,half-wayupRailwayHill.Theattackwasoneofthosefrontalattacks,whichinthiswar,againstthenewweapons,haveaddedsomuchtothelistsofkilledandwoundedandtotheprestigeofthemen,whileit

has,inaninverseratio,hurttheprestigeofthemenbywhomtheattackwasordered.Theresultofthisattackwaspeculiarlydisastrous.Itwasmadeatnight,andassoonasitdeveloped,theBoersretreatedtothetrenchesonthecrestofthehill,andthrewmenaroundthesidestobringacross-firetobearontheEnglishmen.InthemorningtheInniskillingsfoundtheyhadlostfourhundredmen,andtenoutoftheirfifteenofficers.Theotherregimentslostasheavily.ThefollowingTuesday,whichwastheanniversaryofMajubaHill,threebrigades,insteadofaregiment,weretoldofftotakethissameRailwayHill,orPieter’s,asitwaslatercalled,ontheflank,andwithittocapturetwoothers.Onthesameday,nineteenyearsbefore,theEnglishhadlostMajubaHill,andtheirhopewastotakethesethreefromtheBoersfortheonetheyhadlost,andopenthewaytoBulwanaMountain,whichwasthelastbarthatheldthembackfromLadysmith.Thefirsttwoofthethreehillstheywantedwereshouldertoshoulder,thethirdwasseparatedfromthembyadeepravine.Thislastwasthehighest,andinorderthattheattackshouldbesuccessful,itwasnecessarytoseizeitfirst.Thehillsstretchedforthreemiles;theywereaboutonethousandtwohundredyardshigh.For threehoursasingle lineofmenslippedandstumbledforwardalongthemuddybankoftheriver,andforthreehourstheartillerycrashed,spluttered,and stabbed at the three hills above them, scattering the rocks and burstingoverandbehindtheBoertrenchesonthecrest.Asistheircustom,theBoersremainedinvisibleandmadenoreply.Andthoughweknewtheywerethere,itseemedinconceivablethatanythinghumancouldliveundersuchabombardmentofshot,bullets,andshrapnel.Ahundredyardsdistant,onourright,thenavygunswerefiringlydditethatburstwithathickyellowsmoke;ontheothersideColtautomaticswereput-put-put-ingastreamofbullets;thefield-gunsandthehowitzerswereplayingfromahillhalfamilebehindus,andscatteredamongtherocksaboutus,andfortwomilesoneitherhand,theinfantryinreservewerefiringoffammunitionatanypartofthethreehillstheyhappenedtodislike!Theroarofthenavy’sFour-Point-Sevens,theircrash,theirrushastheypassed,theshrillwhineoftheshrapnel,thebarkingofthehowitzers,andthemechanical,regularrattleofthequick-firingMaxims,whichsoundedliketheclickingofmanymowing-machinesonahotsummer’sday,toretheairwithsuchhideousnoisesthatone’sskullachedfromtheconcussion,andonecouldonlybeheardbyshouting.Butmoreimpressivebyfarthanthishotchorusofmightythunderandpettyhammering,wastheroar of the wind which wasdrivendownintothevalleybeneath,andwhichsweptupagaininenormouswaves of sound. It roared like awild hurricane at sea. The illusion was so

complete,thatyouexpected,bylookingdown,toseetheTugelalashingatherbanks,tossingthesprayhundredsoffeetinair,andbattlingwithhersidesofrock. It was like the roar of Niagara in a gale, and yet when you did lookbelow,nota leafwasstirring,and theTugelawasslipping forward, flatandsluggish,andinpeace.Thelongprocessionofyellowfigureswasstilladvancingalongthebottomofthevalley,towardtheright,whenonthecrestofthefarthermosthillfourteenofthemappearedsuddenly,andranforwardandsprangintothetrenches.Perchedagainsttheblueskyonthehighestandmostdistantofthethreehills,theylookedterriblylonelyandinsufficient,andtheyranabout,thiswayandthat,asthoughtheywereverymuchsurprisedtofindthemselveswheretheywere.ThentheysettleddownintotheBoertrench,fromoursideofit,andbeganfiring,theirofficer,ashishabitis,standingupbehindthem.Thehilltheyhadtakenhadevidentlybeenabandonedtothembytheenemy,andthefourteenmeninkhakihadtakenitby“default.”Buttheydisappearedsosuddenlyintothetrench,thatweknewtheywerenotenjoyingtheirnewpositioninpeace,andevery onelookedbelowthem,toseethearrivingreinforcements.Theycameatlast,tothenumberoften,andscamperedaboutjustastheothershaddone,lookingforcover.Itseemedasifwecouldalmosthearthesingingofthebulletwhenoneofthemdodged,anditwaswithadistinctsenseofrelief,andoffreedomfromfurtherresponsibility,thatwesawthetendisappearalso,andbecomepartoftheyellowstonesaboutthem.Thenaverywonderfulmovementbegantoagitatethemenuponthetworemaininghills.Theybegantocreepupthemasyouhaveseenseaweedrisewiththetideandenveloparock.Theymovedinregiments,buteachmanwasasdistinctasisaletterofthealphabetineachwordonthispage,blackwithletters.Webegantofollowthefortunesofindividualletters.Itwasamostselfishandcowardlyoccupation,foryouknewyouwereinnogreaterdangerthanyouwouldbeinlookingthroughtheglassesofamutoscope.Thebattleunrolledbeforeyoulikeapanorama.Thegunsonoursideofthevalleyhadceased,thehurricaneinthedepthsbelowhadinstantlyspentitself,andthebirdsandinsectshadagainbeguntofillourhillwithdrowsytwitterandsong.Butontheother,halfthemenwerewrappingthebaseofthehillinkhaki,whichrosehigherandhigher,growinglooserandlesstightlywraptasitspunupward.Halfwaytothecresttherewasabroadopenspaceofgreengrass,andabovethatayellowbankofearth,whichsupportedthetrackoftherailroad.Thisgreenspacespurtedwithtinygeysersofyellowdust.Wherethebulletscamefromorwhosentthemwecouldnotsee.Butthelooseendsofthebandageofkhakiwerestretchingacrossthisgreenspaceandtheyellowspurtsofdustroseallaroundthem.Themencrossedthisfirezonewarily,lookingto

onesideortheother,asthebulletsstrucktheearthheavily,likedropsofrainbeforeashower.Themenhadtheirheadsandshouldersbentasthoughtheythoughtaroofwasabouttofallonthem;someranfromrocktorock,seekingcoverproperly;othersscamperedtowardthesafevantage-groundbehindtherailroadembankment;othersadvancedleisurely,likemenplayinggolf.Thesilence,afterthehurricaneofsounds,waspainful;wecouldnotheareventheBoerrifles.Themenmovedlikefiguresinadream,withoutfiringashot.Theyseemedeachtobeactingonhisownaccount,withoutunisonororganization.AsIhavesaid,youceasedconsideringthescatteredwhole,andbecameintentontheadventuresofindividuals.Thesefellsosuddenly,thatyouwaitedwithgreatanxietytolearnwhethertheyhaddroppedtododgeabulletorwhetheronehadfoundthem.Themencameatlastfromeveryside,andfromoutofeveryridgeanddried-upwaterway.Openspaceswhichhadbeengreenamomentbeforeweresuddenlydyedyellowwiththem.Whereacompanyhadbeenclingingtotherailroadembankment,therestoodoneregimentholdingit,andanothersweepingoverit.Heightsthathadseemedthegoal,becametheresting-placeofthestretcher-bearers,untilatlastnopartofthehillremainedunpopulated,saveahighbulgingrampartofunprotectedandopenground.Andthen,suddenly,comingfromtheearthitself,apparently,onemanranacrossthisopenspaceandleapedontopofthetrenchwhichcrownedthehill.Hewasfullyfifteenyardsinadvanceofalltherest,entirelyunsupported,andalone.Andhehadevidentlyplanneditso,forhetookoffhishelmetandwavedit,andstuckitonhisrifleandwaveditagain,andthensuddenlyclappeditonhisheadandthrewhisguntohisshoulder.Hestoodso,pointingdownintothetrench,anditseemedasthoughwecouldhearhimcallingupontheBoersbehindittosurrender.AfewminuteslaterthelastofthethreehillswasmountedbytheWestYorks,whoweremistakenbytheirownartilleryforBoers,andfireduponbothbytheBoersandbytheirownshrapnelandlyddite.Fourmenwerewounded,and,tosavethemselves, a line of them stood up at full length on the trench andcheeredandwavedattheartilleryuntilithadceasedtoplayuponthem.TheBoerscontinued tofireuponthemwithriflesforover twohours.But itwasonly a demonstration to cover the retreat of the greater number, and atdaybreakthehillswereincompleteandpeacefulpossessionoftheEnglish.ThesehillswereapartofthesameRailwayHillwhichfournightsbeforetheInniskillingsandacompositeregimenthadattemptedtotakebyafrontalattackwiththelossofsixhundredmen,amongwhomwerethreecolonels.Bythisflankattack,andbyusingnineregimentsinsteadofone,thesamehillsandtwoothersweretakenwithtwohundredcasualties.Thefactthatthis

battle,whichwascalledtheBattleofPieter’sHill, and the surrender ofGeneral Cronje and his forces to Lord Roberts, both took place on theanniversaryof thebattleofMajubaHill,madethewholeofBuller’scolumnfeelthattheillmemoryofthatdisasterhadbeeneffaced.

IITHERELIEFOFLADYSMITH

AfterthedefeatoftheBoersatthebattleofPieter’sHillthereweretwothingsleftforthemtodo.TheycouldfallbackacrossagreatplainwhichstretchedfromPieter’sHilltoBulwana Mountain, and there make their last standagainst Buller and the Ladysmith relief column, or they could abandon thesiege of Ladysmith and slip away after having held Buller at bay for threemonths.BulwanaMountainisshapedlikeabrickandblocksthevalleyinwhichLadysmithlies.Therailroadtrackslipsaroundoneendofthebrick,andtheDundeetrailaroundtheother.ItwasonthismountainthattheBoershadplacedtheirfamousgun,LongTom,withwhichtheybeganthebombardmentofLadysmith,andwithwhichuptothedaybeforeLadysmithwasrelievedtheyhadthrownthreethousandshellsintothatmiserabletown.If theBoerson retreating fromPieter’sHillhad fortified thismountainwiththepurposeofholdingoffBullerforastilllongertime,theywouldhavebeenunderafirefromGeneralWhite’sartilleryinthetownbehindthemandfromBuller’snavalgunsinfront.TheirpositionwouldnothavebeenunlikethatofHumptyDumptyonthewall,sotheywiselyadoptedtheonlyalternativeandslippedaway.ThiswasonTuesdaynight,whiletheBritishwerehurryingupartillerytoholdthehillstheyhadtakenthatafternoon.Byteno’clockthefollowingmorningfromthetopofPieter’sHillyoucouldstillseetheBoersmovingoffalongtheDundeeroad.Itwasaneasymattertofollowthem,forthedusthungabovethetrailinayellowcloud,likemistoveraswamp.ThereweretwoopinionsastowhethertheywerehaltingatBulwanaorpassingit,ontheirwaytoLaing’sNeck.IftheyweregoingonlytoBulwanatherewastheprobabilityoftwoweeks’morefightingbeforetheycouldbedislodged.IftheyhadavoidedBulwana, theway to Ladysmithwasopen.LordDundonald,who is in command of a brigade of irregular cavalry,wasscouting to the left ofBulwana,farinadvanceofourforces.Atsunsethearrived,withouthavingencounteredtheBoers,atthebaseofBulwana.Hecouldeither return andreportthedisappearanceoftheenemyorhecouldmakeadashforitandenterLadysmith.Hisorderswere“togo,look,see,”

andavoidanaction,andthefactthatnoneofhisbrigadewasinthetriumphantprocessionwhichtookplacethreedayslaterhasledmanytothinkthatinenteringthebesiegedtownwithoutordersheoffendedthecommandinggeneral.Inanyevent,itisafamilyrowandofnointeresttotheoutsider.Themainfactisthathedidmakeadashforit,andjustatsunsetfoundhimselfwithtwohundredmenonlyamilefromthe“DoomedCity.”HisforcewascomposedofNatalCarbiniersandImperialLightHorse.Hehaltedthem,andinorderthathonorsmightbeeven,formedtheminsectionswiththehalfsectionsmadeupfromeachofthetwoorganizations.Alltheofficerswereplacedinfront,andwithacheertheystartedtoraceacrosstheplain.Thewig-waggersonConventHillhadalreadyseenthem,andthetownspeopleandthegarrisonwererushingthroughthestreetstomeetthem,cheeringandshouting,andsomeofthemweeping.Others,soofficerstellme,whowereinthedifferentcamps,lookeddownuponthefiguresgallopingacrosstheplaininthetwilight,andcontinuedmakingtea.Justastheyhadreachedthecentreofthetown,GeneralSirGeorgeWhiteandhisstaffrodedownfromhead-quartersandmetthemenwhosecomingmeantforhimlifeandpeaceandsuccess.Theywereadvancingatawalk,withthecheeringpeoplehangingtotheirstirrups,clutchingattheirhandsandhangingtothebridlesoftheirhorses.GeneralWhite’sfirstgreetingwascharacteristicallyunselfishandloyal,andtypicaloftheBritishofficer.Hegavenosignofhisownincalculablerelief,nordidhegivetoCæsar the things which were Cæsar’s.HedidnotcheerDundonald, nor Buller, northecolumnwhichhadrescuedhimandhisgarrisonfrompresentstarvationandprobableimprisonmentatPretoria.Heraisedhishelmetandcried,“WewillgivethreecheersfortheQueen!”Andthenthegeneralandthehealthy,ragged,andsunburnedtroopersfromtheoutsideworld,thestarved,fever-riddengarrison,andthestarved,fever-riddenciviliansstoodwithhatsoffandsangtheirnationalanthem.ThecolumnoutsidehadbeenfightingsteadilyforsixweekstogetDundonaldoranyoneofitsforceintoLadysmith;forfourteendaysithadbeenlivinginthe open, fighting by night as well as by day, without halt or respite; thegarrison insidehadbeen for fourmonthsholding theenemyatbaywith thepointofthebayonet;itwasfamishedforfood,itwasrottenwithfever,andyetwhenthereliefcameandallturnedoutwell,thefirstthoughtofeveryonewasfortheQueen!Itmaybecredulousinthemorold-fashioned;butitiscertainlyveryunselfish,andwhenyoutaketheirpointofviewitiscertainlyveryfine.

After the Queen every one else had his share of the cheering, andGeneralWhitecouldnotcomplainof theheartinesswithwhich theygreetedhim,hetriedtomakeaspeechinreply,butitwasabriefone.HespokeofhowmuchtheyowedtoGeneralBuller and his column, and he congratulated his ownsoldiersonthedefencetheyhadmade.“I am very sorry, men,” he said, “that I had to cut down your rations. IIpromiseyouIwon’tdoitagain.”Thenhestoppedverysuddenlyandwhirledhishorse’sheadaroundandrodeaway.Judgingfromthenumberoftimestheytoldmeofthis,thefactthattheyhadallbutseenanEnglishgeneralgivewaytohisfeelingsseemedtohaveimpressedthecivilianmindofLadysmithmorethantheentranceofthereliefforce.Themenhavingcomeinanddemonstratedthatthewaywasopen,rodeforthagain,andthereliefofLadysmithhadtakenplace.Butitisnotthepeoplecheeringinthedarkstreets,norGeneralWhitebreakingdowninhisspeechofwelcome,whichgivesthenotetothewaythemenofLadysmithreceivedtheirfreedom.Itisratherthefactthatasthetwohundredbattle-stainedandearth-stainedtroopersgallopedforward,racingtobethefirst,andrisingintheirstirrupstocheer,themeninthehospitalcampssaid,“Well,they’recomeatlast,havethey?”andcontinuedfussingovertheirfourthofarationoftea.ThatgivestherealpictureofhowLadysmithcameintoherinheritance,andofhowshereceivedherrescuers.On the morning after DundonaldhadriddeninandoutofLadysmith,twoothercorrespondentsandmyselfstartedtorelieveitonourownaccount.WedidnotknowthewaytoLadysmith,andwedidnotthenknowwhetherornottheBoersstilloccupiedBulwanaMountain.ButwearguedthatthechancesoftheBoershavingraisedthesiegeweresogoodthatitwasworthriskingtheirnothavingdoneso,andbeingtakenprisoner.Wecarriedallthetobaccowecouldpackinoursaddle-bags,andenoughfoodforoneday.Mychiefregretwasthatmygovernment,withtruerepublicansimplicity,hadgivenmeapassport,type-writtenonamodestsheetofnotepaperandwofullylackinginimpressivesealsandcoatsofarms.IfancieditwouldlooktoBoereyeslikeoneImighthaveforgedformyselfinthewriting-roomofthehotelatCapeTown.WehadriddenupPieter’sHillandscrambleddownonitsothersidebeforewelearnedthatthenightbeforeDundonaldhadraisedthesiege.WelearnedthisfromlongtrainsofartilleryandregimentsofinfantrywhichalreadyweremovingforwardoverthegreatplainwhichliesbetweenPieter’sandBulwana.Welearneditalsofromthesilenceofconscientious,dutifulcorrespondents,whocamegallopingbackaswegallopedforward,andwhomadewidedétours

atsightofus,orwho,whenwehailedthem,lashedtheirponiesovertheredrocks and pretended not to hear, each unselfishly turning his back onLadysmith in the hope that he might be the first to send word that the“DoomedCity”wasrelieved.Thiswouldenableonepapertosaythatithadthenews“onthestreet”fiveminutesearlierthanitshatedrivals.Wefoundthattherivalryofourrespectivepapersboredus.Wecondemneditasbeingchildishandweak.London,NewYork,Chicagowerenames,theywerespotsthousandsofleaguesaway:Ladysmithwasjustacrossthatmountain.Ifourhorsesheldoutatthepace,wewouldbeafterDundonaldthefirstmenin.Weimaginedthatwewouldseehystericalwomenandstarvingmen.Theywouldwringourhands,andsay,“Godblessyou,”andwewouldhaltoursteaminghorsesinthemarket-place,anddistributethenewsoftheoutsideworld,andtobacco.Therewouldbeshatteredhouses,rooflesshomes,deeppitsintheroadwayswheretheshellshadburstandburiedthemselves.Wewouldseetheentombedmineratthemomentofhisdeliverance,wewouldbeamongthefirstfromtheouterworldtobreakthespellofhissilence;thefirsttoreceivethebruntoftheimprisonedpeople’sgratitudeandrejoicings.Indeed,itwasclearlyourdutytothepapersthatemployedusthatweshouldnotsendthemnews,butthatweshouldbethefirsttoenterLadysmith.Weweresurelythebestjudgesofwhatwasbesttodo.HowlikethemtotrytodictatetousfromLondonandNewYork,whenwewereonthespot!Itwasabsurd.Weshoutedthistoeachotherasweracedinandoutofthelongconfusedcolumn,lashingviciouslywithourwhips.Westumbledaroundpiecesofartillery,slidinbetweendrippingwater-carts,dodgedthehornsofwearyoxen,scatteredcompaniesofstragglingTommies, and ducked underprotruding tent-poles on the baggage-wagons, and at last came out togetheragaininadvanceofthedustycolumn.“Besides,wedon’tknowwherethepress-censoris,dowe?”No,ofcoursewehad no ideawhere the press-censorwas, and unless he said that Ladysmithwasrelieved,thefactthattwenty-fivethousandothersoldierssaidsocountedforidlegossip.OurpaperscouldnotexpectustogoridingovermountainsthedayLadysmithwasrelieved,huntingforapress-censor.“Thatpress-censor,”gaspedHartland,“neveriswhereheoughttobe.”Thewordswerebumpedoutofhimashewasshotupanddowninthesaddle.Thatwasit.Itwasthepress-censor’sfault.Ourconscienceswereclearnow.Ifourpapersworriedthemselvesorusbecause theydidnotreceive thegreatnewsuntileveryoneelseknewofit,itwasallbecauseofthatpress-censor.Wesmiledagainandspurredthehorsesforward.Weabusedthepress-censorroundlywewereextremelyindignantwithhim.ItwassolikehimtolosehimselfthedayLadysmithwasrelieved.“Confoundhim,”wemuttered,andgrinnedguiltily.Wefeltasweusedtofeelwhenwewereplayingtruantfromschool.

WewerenearingPieter’sStationnow,andwerehalf-waytoLadysmith.Butthevanofthearmywasstillaboutus.Wasitpossiblethatitstretchedalreadyintothebeleagueredcity?Werewe,afterall,tobecheatedofthefirstandfreshestimpressions?Thetalllancersturnedatthesoundofthehorses’hoofsandstared,infantryofficersonfootsmiledupatussadly,theyweredirtyanddustyandsweating, theycarriedriflesandcrossbelts liketheTommies;andtheyknewthatweoutsiderswhowerenotunderorderswouldseethechosencity before them. Some of them shouted to us, but we only nodded andgalloped on.Wewanted to get rid of them all, but theywere interminable.When we thought we had shaken them off, and that we were at last inadvance,wewouldcomeuponagroupof them restingon the samegroundtheirshellshadtornupduringthebattlethedaybefore.WepassedBoerlaagersmarkedbyemptycansandbrokensaddlesandblack,cold camp-fires. At Pieter’s Station the blood was still fresh on the grasswhere two hours before some of the South African Light Horse had beenwounded.TheBoerswerestillonBulwanathen?Perhaps,afterall,wehadbetterturnbackandtrytofindthatpress-censor.ButwerodeonandsawPieter’sStation,aswepassedit,asanabsurdrelicofby-gonedayswhenbridgeswereintactandtrainsranonscheduletime.Onedoorseenovertheshoulderaswegallopedpastread,“StationMaster’sOfficePrivate,”andincontemptofthatsterninjunction,whichwouldmakeeventhefirst-classpassengerhesitate,oneofourshellshadknockedawaythehalfofthedoorandmadeitsprivacyamockery.WehadonlytofollowthetracknowandwewouldarriveintimeunlesstheBoerswerestillonBulwana.Wehadshakenoffthearmy,andweweretwomilesinfrontofit,whensixmencamegallopingtowardusinanunfamiliaruniform.Theypassedusfartotheright,regardlessofthetrail,andgallopingthroughthehighgrass.Wepulledupwhenwesawthem,fortheyhadgreenfacingstotheirgrayuniforms,andnoonewithBuller’s columnworegreenfacings.Wegaveayellinchorus.“AreyoufromLadysmith?”weshouted.Themen,beforetheyanswered,wheeledandcheered,andcametowarduslaughingjubilant.“We’rethefirstmenout,”criedtheofficerandwerodeinamongthem,shakinghandsandofferingourgoodwishes.“We’regladtoseeyou,”wesaid.“We’regladtoseeyou,”theysaid.Itwasnotanoriginalgreeting,butitseemedsufficienttoallofus.“AretheBoersonBulwana?” we asked.“No,they’vetrekkedupDundeeway.Youcangorightin.”Wepartedatthewordandstartedtogorightin.Wefoundtheculvertsalongtherailroadcutawayandthebridgesdown,andthatgallopingponiesoverthe

roadbedof a railroad is adifficult feat at thebest, evenwhen the road is inworkingorder.Somemen,cleanlydressedandratherpale-looking,metusandsaid:“Good-morning.”“AreyoufromLadysmith?”wecalled.“No,we’refromtheneutralcamp,”theyanswered.Wewerethefirstmenfromoutsidetheyhadseeninfourmonths,andthatwastheextentoftheirinterestorinformation.Theyhadputontheirbestclothes,andwere walking along the track toColensotocatchatrainsouthtoDurbanortoMaritzburg,toanyplaceoutoftheneutralcamp.Theymighthavebeensomnambulistsforalltheysawofus,oroftheBoertrenchesandthebattle-fieldbeforethem.Butwefoundthemofgreatestinterest,especiallytheircleanclothes.Ourcolumnhadnotseencleanlinen in sixweeks, and the sight of these civilians inwhite duck and strawhats, and carrying walking-sticks, coming toward us over the railroad ties,made one think it was Sunday at home and thesewere excursionists to thesuburbs.Wehadbeenridingthrougharooflesstunnel,withthemountainandthegreatdamononeside,andthehighwalloftherailwaycuttingontheother,butnowjustaheadofuslaytheopencountry,andtheexitofthetunnelbarricadedbytwistedrailsandheaped-uptiesandbagsofearth.Bulwanawasbehindus.Foreightmilesithadshutoutthesightofourgoal,butnow,directlyinfrontofus,wasspreadagreatcityofdirtytentsandgrasshutsandRedCrossflagsthe neutral campand beyond that, four miles away, shimmering andtwinklingsleepilyinthesun,thewhitewallsandzincroofsofLadysmith.Wegaveagaspofrecognitionandgallopedintoandthroughtheneutralcamp.NativesofIndiaingreatturbans,Indianwomeningayshawlsandnose-rings,and black Kaffirs in discarded khaki looked up at us dully from the earthfloorsof theirhuts, andwhenweshouted“Whichway?”and“Where is thebridge?”onlystared,orpointedvaguely,stillstaring.Afterall,wethought, theyarepoorcreatures, incapableofemotion.Perhapstheydonotknowhowgladwearethattheyhavebeenrescued.Theydonotunderstand that we want to shake hands with everybody and offer ourcongratulations. Wait until we meet our own people, we said, they willunderstand! It was such a pleasant prospect that we whipped the unhappyponiesintogreaterburstsofspeed,notbecausetheyneededit,butbecauseweweretooexcitedandimpatienttositmotionless.Inourhastewelostourwayamonginnumerablelittletrees;wedisagreedastowhichoneofthemanycross-trailsledhometothebridge.Weslippedoutofour stirrups todrag theponiesoverone steepplace, and tohaul themupanother,andatlasttherightroadlaybeforeus,andahundredyardsaheada

short ironbridgeandaGordonHighlanderwaitedtowelcomeus, toreceiveourfirstgreetingsandanassortedcollectionofcigarettes.Hartlandwasridinga thoroughbred polo pony and passed the gallant defender of Ladysmithwithout a kind look or word, but Blackwood and I galloped up moredecorously, smiling at himwith good-will. The soldier,who had not seen afriend from the outside world in four months, leaped in front of us andpresentedaheavygunandaburnishedbayonet.“Halt,there,”hecried.“Where’syourpass?”Ofcourseitshowedexcellentdisciplineweadmireditimmensely.WeevenoverlookedthefactthatheshouldthinkBoerspieswouldenterthetownbywayofthemainbridgeandatagallop.Welikedhisvigilance,weadmiredhisdiscipline,butinspiteofthathisreceptionchilledus.WehadbroughtseveralthingswithusthatwethoughttheymightpossiblywantinLadysmith,butwehadentirelyforgottentobringapass.IndeedIdonotbelieveoneofthetwenty-fivethousandmenwhohadbeenfightingforsixweekstorelieveLadysmithhadsuppliedhimselfwithone.Thenightbefore,whentheLadysmithsentrieshadtriedtohaltDundonald’stroopersinthesameway,anddemandedapassfromthem,therewasnotoneinthesquadron.WecrossedthebridgesoberlyandenteredLadysmithatawalk.Eventheponieslookeddisconcertedandcrestfallen.Afterthehighgrassandthemountainsofredrock,wheretherewasnotevenatenttoremindoneofaroof-tree,thestonecottagesandshop-windowsandchapelsandwell-orderedhedgesofthemainstreetofLadysmithmadeitseemawealthyandattractivesuburb.Whenweentered,aSabbath-likecalmhunguponthetown;officersinthesmartestkhakiandglisteningStowassersobservedusaskance,littlegirlsinwhitepinaforespasseduswitheyescastdown,amanonabicyclelookedup,andthen,interrorlestwemightspeaktohim,gluedhiseyestothewheeland“scorched”rapidly.Wetrottedforwardandhaltedateachstreetcrossing,lookingtotherightandleftinthehopethatsome onemightnodtous.FromtheoppositeendofthetownGeneralBuller and his staff cametowardusslowlythehouse-topsdidnotseemtoswayitwasnot“roses,rosesalltheway.”TheGermanarmymarchingintoParisreceivedasheartyawelcome.“Whydidn’tyoupeoplecheerGeneralBullerwhenhecamein?”weaskedlater.“Oh,wasthatGeneralBuller?” they inquired. “We didn’trecognizehim.”“Butyouknewhewasageneralofficer,youknewhewasthefirstoftherelievingcolumn?”“Ye-es,butwedidn’tknowwhohewas.”IdecidedthatthebarefactofthereliefofLadysmithwasallIwouldbeabletowiretomyneglectedpaper,andwithremorsesstartedtofindtheLadysmithcensor.Twoofficers,withwhomIventuredtobreakthehushthathunguponthetownbyaskingmyway,saidtheyweregoinginthedirectionofthe

censor.Werodeforsomedistanceinguardedsilence.Finally,oneofthem,withaninwardstruggle,broughthimselftoask,“Areyoufromtheoutside?”IwasforcedtoadmitthatIwas.IfeltthatIhadtakenanunwarrantablelibertyinintrudingonabesiegedgarrison.IwantedtosaythatIhadlostmywayandhadriddenintothetownbymistake,andthatIbeggedtobeallowedtowithdrawwithapologies.Theotherofficerwokeupsuddenlyandhandedmeaprintedlistofthepriceswhichhadbeenpaidduringthesiegeforfoodandtobacco.Heseemedtoofferitasbeinginsomewayanofficialapologyforhisstarvedappearance.Thepriceofcigarsstruckmeasespeciallypathetic,andIcommentedonit.Thefirstofficergazedmournfullyattheblazingsunshinebeforehim.“Ihavenotsmokedacigarintwomonths,”hesaid.Mysurgingsympathy,andmyterroratagainoffendingthehaughtygarrison,combatedsofiercelythatitwasonlywithagreateffortthatIproducedahandful.“Willyouhavethese?”TheotherofficerstartedinhissaddlesoviolentlythatIthoughthishorsehadstumbled,buthealsokepthiseyesstraightinfront.“Thankyou,IwilltakeoneifImayjustone,”saidthefirstofficer.“AreyousureIamnotrobbingyou?”Theyeachtookone,buttheyrefusedtoputtherestofthecigarsintheirpockets.Astheprintedliststatedthatadozenmatchessoldfor$.,Ihandedthemaboxofmatches.Thenabeautifulthinghappened.Theylitthecigarsandatthefirsttasteofthesmokeandtheywerenotgoodcigarsanalmosthumanexpressionofpeaceandgood-willandutterabandonmenttojoyspreadovertheiryellowskinsandcrackedlipsandfever-liteyes.Thefirstmandroppedhisreinsandputhishandsonhishipsandthrewbackhisheadandshouldersandclosedhiseyelids.IfeltthatIhadintrudedatamomentwhichshouldhavebeenleftsacred.Anotherboyofficerinstainlesskhakiandbeautifullyturnedout,polishedandburnishedandvarnished,butwiththesameyellowskinandsharpenedcheek-bones and protruding teeth, a skeleton on horseback, rode slowly toward usdownthehill.Ashereachedusheglancedupandthenswayedinhissaddle,gazingatmycompanionsfearfully.“GoodGod,”hecried.Hisbrotherofficersseemedtounderstand,butmadenoanswer,excepttojerktheirheadstowardme.Theywere toooccupied to speak. Ihanded the skeletonacigar, andhetookitingreatembarrassment,laughingandstammeringandblushing.ThenIbegantounderstand;Ibegantoappreciatetheheroicself-sacrificeofthefirsttwo, who, when they had been given the chance, had refused to fill theirpockets.IknewthenthatitwasaneffortworthyoftheV.C.Thecensorwasathispost,andafewminuteslaterasignalofficeronConventHillheliographedmycabletoBulwana,where,sixhoursaftertheBoershadabandoned it,Buller’sownhelioshadbegun todance,and theyspeeded the

cableonitslongjourneytothenewspaperofficeontheThamesEmbankment.“Tommies”seekingshelterfrom“LongTom”atLadysmithWhenonedescendedtothestreetsagainthereareonlytwostreetswhichrunthefull lengthof the townand lookedforsignsof thesiege,onefound themnotintheshatteredhouses,ofwhichthereseemedsurprisinglyfew,butinthestarvedandfever-shakenlookofthepeople.Thecloakof indifferencewhicheveryEnglishmanwears,andhis instinctivedislike to make much of his feelings, and, in this case, his pluck, at firstconcealedfromushowterriblythosewhohadbeeninsideofLadysmithhadsuffered,andhowneartothebreakingpointtheywere.Theirfacesweretherealindextowhattheyhadpassedthrough.Any one who had seen ourmen atMontauk Point or in the fever camp atSiboneyneedednohospitallisttotellhimofthepitifulconditionofthegarrison.Theskinontheirfaceswasyellow,anddrawnsharplyoverthebrowandcheekbones;theirteethprotruded,andtheyshambledalonglikeoldmen,theirvoicesrangingfromafeeblepipetoadeepwhisper.Inthispitiableconditiontheyhadbeenforcedtokeepnight-watchonthehill-crests,intherain,tolieinthetrenches,andtoworkonfortificationsandbomb-proofs.Andtheywereexpectedtodoallofthesethingsonwhatstrengththeycouldgetfromhorse-meat,biscuitsofthetoughnessandcompositionofthosethatarefedtodogs,andon“mealies,”whichiswhatwecallcorn.That first day inLadysmith gave us a faint experience as towhat the siegemeant.The correspondents had disposed of all their tobacco, andwithin anhoursawstarvationstaringthemintheface,andracedthroughthetowntorobfellow-correspondentswhohadjustarrived.Thenew-comersintheirturnhadsoondistributedalltheyowned,andcametearingbacktobegoneoftheirowncigarettes.We tried to buy grass for our ponies, andweremetwith pityingcontempt;wetriedtobuyfoodforourselves,andweremetwithopenscorn.Iwenttotheonlyhotelwhichwasopenintheplace,andofferedlargesumsforacupoftea.“Putupyourmoney,”saidtheScotchmanincharge,sharply.“What’sthegoodofyourmoney?Canyourhorseeatmoney?Canyoueatmoney?Verywell,then,putitaway.”ThegreatdramaticmomentaftertheraisingofthesiegewastheentranceintoLadysmithoftherelievingcolumn.Itwasamagnificent,manly,andmovingspectacle.Youmust imagine thedry,burningheat, the fine,yellowdust, thewhite glare of the sunshine, and in the heat and glare and dust the great

interminablecolumnofmeninraggedkhakicrowdingdownthemainstreet,twenty-twothousandstrong,cheeringandshouting,withthesweatrunningofftheir red faces and cutting little rivulets in the dust that caked their cheeks.Someofthemweresogladthat,thoughintheheaviestmarchingorder,theyleaped up and down and stepped out of line to dance to the music of thebagpipes. For hours they crowded past, laughing, joking, and cheering, orstaringaheadof them,with lipswideapart,panting in theheatandchokingwith the dust, but always ready to turn again andwave their helmets at SirGeorgeWhite.Itwasapitifulcontrastwhichthetwoforcespresented.Themenofthegarrisonwereincleankhaki,pipe-clayedandbrushedandpolished,buttheirtunicshungonthemaslooselyastheflagarounditspole,theskinontheircheek-boneswasastightandasyellowasthebellyofadrum,theirteethprotrudedthroughparched,crackedlips,andhunger,fever,andsufferingstaredfromouttheireyes.Theyweresoillandsofeeblethatthemereexerciseofstandingwastooseverefortheirendurance,andmanyofthemcollapsed,fallingbacktothesidewalk,risingtosaluteonlythefirsttroopofeachsucceedingregiment.Thisdone,theywouldagainsinkbackandeachwouldsitleaninghisheadagainsthismusket,orwithhisforeheadrestingheavilyonhisfoldedarms.Incomparisontherelievingcolumnlookedlikegiantsastheycameinwithaswingingswagger,theiruniformsblackenedwithmudandsweatandbloodstains,theirfacesbrilliantlycrimsonedandblisteredandtannedbythedustandsun.Theymadeapictureofstrengthandhealthandaggressiveness.PerhapsthecontrastwasstrongestwhenthebattalionoftheDevons that had been on foreign servicepassedthe“reserve”battalionwhichhadcomefromEngland.ThemenofthetwobattalionshadpartedfiveyearsbeforeinIndia,andtheymetagaininLadysmith,withthemenofonebattalionliningthestreets,sick,hungry,andyellow,andtheothers,whohadbeenfightingsixweekstoreachit,marchingtowardthem,robust,red-faced,andcheeringmightily.Astheymettheygaveashoutofrecognition,andthemenbrokeranksandranforward,callingeachotherbyname,embracing,shakinghands,andpunchingeachotherinthebackandshoulders.Itwasasightthatveryfewmenwatchedunmoved.Indeed,thewholethreehourswasoneofthemostbrutalassaultsuponthefeelingsthatithasbeenmylottoendure.Onefelthehadbeenentirelyliftedoutofthepoliticsofthewar,andthequestionofthewrongsoftheBoersdisappearedbeforeasimplepropostitonofbravemensalutingbravemen.Early in the campaign,whenhis officers hadblundered,GeneralWhite haddaredtowrite:“Ialoneamtoblame.”Butinthistriumphalprocessiontwenty-two thousand gentlemen in khaki wiped that line off the slate, and wrote,“Welldone,sir,” initsplace,as theypassedbeforehimthroughthetownhe

haddefendedandsaved.

IIITHENIGHTBEFORETHEBATTLE

TheBoer“front”wasatBrandfort,and,asLordRobertswasadvancinguponthatplace,onealreadysawinthehead-lines,“TheBattleofBrandfort.”ButbeforeourtraindrewoutofPretoriaStationwelearnedthattheEnglishhadjustoccupiedBrandfort, and that the Boer front had been pushed back toWinburg.We decided that Brandfort was an impossible position to hold anyway, andthat we had better leave the train at Winburg. We found some selfishconsolation for the Boer repulse, in the fact that it shortened our railroadjourney by one day. The next morning when we awoke at the Vaal RiverStationthetraindespatcherinformedusthatduringthenightthe“Rooineks”hadtakenWinburg,andthattheburghersweregatheredatSmaaldel.WeagreednottogotoWinburg,buttostopoffatSmaaldel.WealsoagreedthatWinburgwasanimpossiblepositiontohold.Whenateleveno’clockthetrainreachedKroonstad,welearnedthanLordRobertswasinSmaaldel.ItwasthenevidentthatifourtrainkeptonandtheBritisharmykeptontherewouldbeacollision.SowestoppedatKroonstad.Intalkingitoverwedecidedthat,owingtoitssituation,Smaaldel was an impossible position tohold.TheSandRiver,whichrunsaboutfortymilessouthofKroonstad,wasthelastplaceintheFreeStateatwhichtheburgherscouldhopetomakeastand,andatthebridgewheretherailroadspanstheriver,andatadrifttenmileslowerdown, the Boers and Free Statershadcollectedtothenumberoffourthousand.LordRobertsandhisadvancingcolumn,whichwasknowntocontainthirty-fivethousandmen,wereafewmilesdistantfromtheoppositebankoftheSandRiver.TherewasanequalchancethattheEnglishwouldattempttocrossatthedriftoratthebridge.Wethoughttheywouldcrossatthedrift,andstoppedforthenightatVentersburg, a town ten miles from theriver.Ventersburg,incomparisonwithKroonstad,wherewehadleftthemroundingup stray burghers and hurrying them to the firing-line, and burning officialdocumentsinthestreets,wascalm.Ventersburg was not destroying incriminating documents nordrivingwearyburghersfromitssolitarystreet.ItwasmakingthemwelcomeatJones’sHotel.Thesunhadsunkanangrycrimson,thesuresignofabloodybattleon

themorrow,andafullmoonhadturnedthedustystreetandtheveldtintowhichitdisappearedintoafieldofsnow.TheAmericanscoutshadhaltedatJones’sHotel,andtheAmericanproprietorwasgivingthemdrinksfree.Theircowboyspursjingledonthefloorofthebar-room,ontheboardsoftheverandas,onthestonefloorofthekitchen,andinthebilliard-room,wheretheywereplayingpoolasjoyouslyasthoughtheEnglishwerenottenmilesaway.Grave,awkwardburghersrodeup,eachinacloudofdust,andleavinghisponytowanderinthestreetandhisrifleinacorner,shookhandswitheveryonesolemnly,andaskedforcoffee.ItaliansofGaribaldi’sred-shirtedarmy,SwedesandDanesinsemi-uniform,Frenchmaninhighbootsandgreatsombreros,Germanswiththesabrecutsontheircheeks that had been given them at the university, and Russian officerssmoking tinycigarettescrowded the littledining-room,andby the lightofasmoky lamp talked in many tongues of Spion Kop, Sannahspost, FourteenStreams,andthebattleonthemorrow.They were sun-tanned, dusty, stained, and many of them with wounds inbandages.TheycamefromeverycapitalofEurope,andaseachtookhisturnaroundthecrowdedtable,theydranktothehealthofeverynation,saveone.When they had eaten they picked up the pony’s bridle from the dust andmeltedintothemoonlightwithawaveofthehandanda“goodlucktoyou.”Therewerenobuglestosound“bootsandsaddles”forthem,nosergeantstokeeptheminhand,noofficerstopayfortheirrationsandissueorders.Eachwashisownofficer,hisconsciencewashisbugle-call,hegavehimselforders.Theywereallequal,allfriends;thecowboyandtheRussianPrince,theFrenchsocialistfromLaVilletteorMontmartre,witharedsasharoundhisvelveteenbreeches,andthelittleFrenchnoblemanfromtheCercleRoyalwhohadneverbeforefelt thesun,exceptwhenhehadplayedlawntennisontheIsledePuteaux.Eachhadhisbandolierandrifle;eachwasmindinghisownbusiness,whichwasthebusinessofallto try and save the independence of afreepeople.Thepresenceoftheseforeigners,withrifleinhand,showedthesentimentandsympathiesofthecountriesfromwhichtheycame.ThesemenwereEurope’srealambassadorstotheRepublicoftheTransvaal.ThehundredsofthousandsoftheircountrymenwhohadremainedathomeheldtowardtheBoerthesamefeelings,but theywerenotsostronglymoved;notsostronglyastofeel thattheymustgoabroadtofight.These foreigners were not the exception in opinion,theywereonlyexceptionallyadventurous,exceptionallyliberty-loving.Theywerenotsoldiersoffortune,forthesoldieroffortunefightsforgain.Thesemen

receivenopay,noemolument,noreward.TheywerethefewwhodareddowhatthemajorityoftheircountrymeninEuropethought.AtJones’sHotelthatnight,atVentersburg,itwasasthoughajurycomposedofmenfromallofEuropeandtheUnitedStateshadgatheredinjudgmentontheBritishnation.Outside in themoonlight in thedusty road twobeardedburghershadhaltedmetoaskthewaytothehouseofthecommandant.BetweenthemonaBoerpony sat aman, erect, slim-waisted,withwell-set shoulders and chin in air,onehandholdingthereinshigh,theotherwithknucklesdownrestingonhiship. The Boer pony he rode, nor the moonlight, nor the veldt behind him,coulddisguisehisseatandpose.ItwasasthoughIhadbeensuddenlythrownback into London and was passing the cuirassed, gauntleted guardsman,motionless on his black charger in the sentry gate inWhitehall. Only now,insteadofasteelbreastplate,heshiveredthroughhisthinkhaki,andinsteadofthehighboots,hislegswerewrappedintwistedputties.“Whendidtheytakeyou?”Iasked.“Earlythismorning.Iwasoutscouting,”hesaid.HespokeinavoicesowelltrainedandmodulatedthatItriedtoseehisshoulder-straps.“Oh,youareanofficer?”Isaid.“No,sir,atrooper.FirstLifeGuards.”ButinthemoonlightIcouldseehimsmile,whetheratmymistakeorbecauseitwasnotamistakeIcouldnotguess.Therearemanygentlemenrankers inthiswar.Hemadealonelyfigureinthenight,hishelmetmarkinghimasconspicuouslyasamanwearingahighhat ina church.From thebilliard-room,where theAmerican scouts were playing pool, came the click of the ivory and loud,light-hearted laughter; from the veranda the sputtering of many strangetonguesandthedeep,lazyvoicesoftheBoers.TherewereBoerstotheleftofhim, Boers to the right of him, pulling at their long, drooping pipes andsendingupbigringsofwhitesmokeinthewhitemoonlight.Hedismounted,andstoodwatchingthecrowdabouthimunderhalf-loweredeyelids,butasunmovedasthoughhesawnoone.Hethrewhisarmoverthepony’sneckandpulleditsheaddownagainsthischestandbegantalkingtoit.Itwasasthoughhewishedtoemphasizehisloneliness.“Youarenottired,areyou?No,you’renot,”hesaid.Hisvoicewasaskindly

asthoughhewerespeakingtoachild.“Oh,butyoucan’tbetired.What?”hewhispered.“A little hungry, perhaps.Yes?”Heseemedtodrawmuchcomfortfromhisfriendthepony,andtheponyrubbedhisheadagainsttheEnglishman’sshoulder.“Thecommandantsayshewillquestionyouinthemorning.Youwillcomewithustothejailnow,”hiscaptordirected.“Youwillfindthreeofyourpeopletheretotalkto.Iwill go bring a blanket for you, it is getting cold.”Andtheyrodeofftogetherintothenight.TwodayslaterhewouldhaveheardthroughthewindowsofJones’sHotelthebilliardballsstillclickingjoyously,butthemenwhoheldthecuesthenwouldhavewornhelmetslikehisown.The original Jones, the proprietor of Jones’sHotel, had fled. Themanwhosucceededhimwasalsoarefugee,andthepresentmanagerwasanAmericanfromCincinnati.Hehadneverbeforekeptahotel,butheconfidedtomethatitwasnotabadbusiness,ashefoundthatoneachdrinksoldhemadeaprofitof a hundred per cent. The proprietress was a lady from Brooklyn, herhusband,anotherAmerican,wasaprisonerwithCronjeatSt.Helena.ShewasinconsiderabledoubtastowhethersheoughttorunbeforetheBritisharrived,orwaitandchancebeingmadeaprisoner.Shesaidshewouldprefertoescape,butwhatwithstandingonherfeetalldayinthekitchenpreparingmealsforhungryburghersandforeignvolunteers,shewastootiredtogetaway.WarcloseathandconsistssolargelyofcommonplacesandtrivialdetailsthatIhopeImaybepardonedforrecordingtheanxietiesandcaresofthisladyfromBrooklyn.Herpointofviewsoadmirablyillustratesonesideofwar.Itisonlywhenyouaretenyearsawayfromit,ortenthousandmilesawayfromit,thatyouforgetthedullplaces,andonlythemomentsloomupwhichareterrible,picturesque,andmomentous.Wehaveread,in“VanityFair,”oftheterrorandthemadhastetoescapeofthepeopleofBrusselsontheeveofWaterloo.Thatistheobviousanddramaticside.Thatisthepictureofwaryourememberandwhichappeals.Asarule,peopleliketoreadoftherumbleofcannonthroughthestreetsofVentersburg, thesilent, dusty columns of the re-enforcements passing in the moonlight, thegallopinghoofsoftheaidessuddenlybeatinguponthenightairandgrowingfainter and dying away, the bugle-calls from the camps along the river, thestampofspurredbootsasthegeneralhimselfentersthehotelandspreadstheblue-print maps upon the table, the clanking sabresofhisstaff,standingbehindhiminthecandle-light,whisperingandtuggingattheirgauntletswhile

thegreatmanplanshisattack.YoumuststopwiththeBritisharmyifyouwantbugle-callsandclankingsabresandgauntlets.Theyareapartofthepanoplyofwarandofwarriors.ButwesawnowarriorsatVentersburg thatnight,onlya fewcattle-breedersand farmerswhowere fighting for the landtheyhadwonfromthelionandthebushman,andwiththemamixedcompanyof gentleman adventurersgatheredaroundatablediscussingotherdaysinotherlands.ThepictureofwarwhichismostfamiliaristheoneofthepeopleofBrusselsfleeingfromthecitywiththeFrenchgunsboominginthedistance,orasoneseesitin“Shenandoah,”whereaidesgalloponandoffthestageandthenightsignalsflashfrombothsidesofthevalley.Thatistheobviousanddramaticside;theothersideofwaristhenightbeforethebattle,atJones’sHotel;thelandladyinthedining-roomwithherelbowsonthetable,fretfullydecidingthatafteradayinfrontofthecooking-stovesheistootiredtoescapeaninvadingarmy,declaringthattheoneplaceatwhichshewouldratherbeatthatmomentwasGreen’srestaurantinPhiladelphia,theheatedargumentthatimmediatelyfollowsbetweentheforeignlegionandtheAmericansastowhetherRector’sisnotbetterthantheCafédeParis,andthegeneralagreementthatRitzcannothopetoruntwohotelsinLondonwithoutbeingrobbed.Thatishowthementalkedandactedontheeveofabattle.Weheardnogallopingaides,noclankingspurs,onlytheclickoftheclippedbilliardballsastheAmericanscouts(whowerekilledthirty-sixhourslater)knockedthemaboutthetornbilliard-cloth,thedrip,dripofthekerosenefromablazing,sweatinglamp,whichstruckthedirtytable-cloth,withtheregulartickingofahallclock,andthecomplaintofthepianofromthehotelparlor,wherethecorrespondentofaBostonpaperwaspickingout“Hello,MyBaby,”laboriouslywithonefinger.Warisnotsoterriblydramaticorexcitingat thetime; and the real trials of warat the time, and not as one later remembersthemconsist largely in looting fodder for your ponies and in bribing thestation-mastertoputonanopentruckinwhichtocarrythem.Wewerewakenedabouttwoo’clockinthemorningbyaloudknockingonadoorandthedistractedvoiceofthelocaljusticeofthepeacecallinguponthelandlordtorousehimselfandfly.TheEnglish,sothevoiceinformedthevariousguests,asdoorafterdoorwasthrownopenuponthecourt-yard,wereatVentersburgStation,onlytwohoursaway.Thejusticeofthepeacewantedtobuyortoborrowahorse,andwanteditverybadly,butasleepy-eyedandscepticalaudiencetoldhimunfeelinglythathewaseitherdrunkordreaming,andonlythelandlady,nowapparentlyrefreshedafterherlabors,waskeenly,evenhysterically,intentoninstantflight.Shesatupinherbedwithherhairincurlpapersandarevolverbesideher,andthroughheropendoorshoutedadvicetoherlodgers.Buttheywereunsympathetic,andreassuredheronlybybangingtheirdoorsandretiringwithprofanegrumbling,andinafewmomentsthesilencewasbrokenonlybythevoiceofthejusticeashefled

downthemainstreetofVentersburgofferinghiskingdomforahorse.ThenextmorningwerodeouttotheSandRivertoseetheBoerpositionsnearthedrift,andmetPresidentSteyninhisCapecartcomingfromthemonhiswaytothebridge.EversincetheoccupationofBloemfontein,theLondonpapershadbeenspeakingofhimas“theLatePresident,”asthoughheweredead.Heimpressedme,onthecontrary,asbeingverymuchaliveandverymuchthePresident,althoughhisexecutivechamberwasthedancing-hallofahotelandhisroof-treethehoodofaCapecart.Hestoodinthemiddleoftheroad,andtalkedhopefullyofthemorrow.Hehadbeenwaiting,hesaid,toseethedevelopmentoftheenemy’sattack,buttheBritishhadnotappeared,and,ashebelievedtheywouldnotadvancethatday,hewasgoingontothebridgetotalktohisburghersandtoconsultwithGeneralBotha.HewasmuchmoreamanoftheworldandmoretheprofessionalpoliticianthanPresidentKruger.Iuse thewords “professional politician” in no unpleasant sense, butmeaningrather that he was ready, tactful, and diplomatic. For instance, he gave towhateverhesaidtheairofaconfidencereservedespeciallyfortheearofthepersontowhomhespoke.HeshowednoneofthebitternesswhichPresidentKruger exhibits toward the British, but took the tone toward the EnglishGovernment of the most critical and mused tolerance. Had he heard it, itwouldhavebeenintenselyannoyingtoanyEnglishman.“I see that theLondonChronicle,” he said, “asks if, since I have become arebel,IdonotlosemyrightsasaBarristeroftheTemple?Ofcourse,wearenomorerebelsthantheSpaniardswererebelsagainsttheUnitedStates.Byagreatstretchofthetruth,underthesuzeraintyclause,theburghersoftheTransvaalmightbecalledrebels,butaFreeStaternever!Itisnottheanimosityof the Englishwhich Imind,” he added, thoughtfully, “but their depressingignoranceoftheirownhistory.”PresidentSteynonhiswaytoSandRiverbattleHischeerfulnessandhopefulness,eventhoughoneguessedtheywereassumed,commandedone’sadmiration.Hewasbeinghuntedoutofonevillageafteranother,themilesofterritorystillfreetohimwerehourlyshrinkinginafewdayshewouldbearefugeeintheTransvaal;buthestoodinthe open veldt with all his possessions in the cart behind him, a presidentwithoutarepublic,amanwithoutahome,butstillfullofpluck,cheerfulandunbeaten.Thefarm-houseofGeneralAndrewCronjestoodjustabovethedriftandwastheonlyconspicuousmarkfortheEnglishgunsonoursideoftheriver,soinordertoprotectitthegeneralhadturneditovertotheambulancecorpstobeusedasahospital.TheyhadlashedagreatRedCrossflagtothechimneyand

filledthecleanshelvesofthegenerouslybuiltkitchenwithbottlesofantisepticsandbitter-smellingdrugsandsurgeons’cutlery.PresidentSteyngavemealettertoDr.RodgersReid,whowasincharge,andheofferedusourchoiceofthedesertedbedrooms.Itwasamostwelcomeshelter,andincomparisontothecoldveldtthehospitalwasahavenofcomfort.Hundredsofcooingdoves,stumblingovertheroofofthebarn,helpedtofilltheairwiththeirpeacefulmurmur.Itwasastrangeoverturetoabattle,butintimeIlearnedtonotlistenforanymoremartialprelude.TheBoerdoesnotmakeabusinessofwar,andwhenheisnotactuallyfightinghepretendsthatheiscampingoutforpleasure.Inhislaagertherearenowarlikesounds,nosentrieschallenge,nobuglescall.Hehasnodutiestoperform,forhisKaffirboyscareforhispony,gatherhiswood,andbuildhisfire.Hehasnothingtodobuttowaitforthenextfight,andtomakethetimepassasbest he can. Incamp the burghers are like a party of children. They play gameswith eachother, and play tricks upon each other, and engage in numerous wrestlingbouts,a formofcontestofwhich theyseemparticularly fond.Theyare likechildrenalsointhattheyaredirectandsimple,andascourteousastheidealchild should be. Indeed, if I were asked what struck me as the chiefcharacteristicsoftheBoerIshouldsaytheywerethetwoqualitieswhichtheEnglishhavealwaysdisallowedhim,hissimplicityratherthanhis“cuteness,”andhiscourtesyratherthanhisboorishness.TheforcethatwaitedatthedriftbyCronje’sfarmasitlayspreadoutonbothsides of the river looked like a gathering of Wisconsin lumbermen, ofAdirondackguidesandhuntershaltedatPaulSmith’s,likeaMethodistcamp-meetinglimitedentirelytomen.Theeyesoughtinvainforrowsoftents,forthehorsesatthepicketline,fortheflagsthatmarkedthehead-quarters,thecommissariat,thefieldtelegraph,thefieldpost-office,theA.S.C.,theR.M.A.C.,theC.O.,andalltheothercombinationsoflettersofthemilitaryalphabet.I remembered that great army ofGeneralBuller’s as I saw it stretching outover the basin of the Tugela, like the children of Israel in number, likeTammanyHallinorganizationanddiscipline,withnotatent-pinmissing;withhospitalsascompleteasthoseestablishedforahundredyearsintheheartofLondon;withsearch-lights,heliographs,warballoons,Roentgenrays,pontoonbridges, telegraph wagons, and trenching tools, farriers with anvils, major-generals, mapmakers, “gallopers,” intelligence departments, even biographsandpress-censors;everykindofthingandeverykindofmanthatgoestomakeupaBritisharmycorps.IknewthatsevenmilesfromusjustsuchanothercompletelyequippedanddisciplinedcolumnwasadvancingtotheoppositebankoftheSandRiver.

AndopposedtoitwasthismerrycompanyofBoerfarmerslyingonthegrass,toastingpiecesoffreshlykilledoxontheendofastick,theirhobbledponiesforaging for themselves a half-mile away, a thousand men without a tentamongthem,withoutafield-glass.Itwasapicnic,apastoralscene,notasceneofwar.Onthehillsoverlookingthedriftweretheguns,butdownalongthebankstheburghersweresittingincirclessingingtheeveninghymns,manyofthemsungtothetunesfamiliarintheserviceoftheEpiscopalChurch,sothatitsoundedlikeaSundayeveninginthecountryathome.Atthedriftotherburgherswerewateringtheoxen,bathingandwashinginthecoldriver;aroundthecamp-firesothersweresmokingluxuriously,withtheirsaddlesforpillows.Theeveningbreezebroughtthesweetsmellofburningwood,ahazeofsmokefrommanyfires,thelazyhumofhundredsofvoicesrisingintheopenair,theneighingofmanyhorses,andtheswiftsoothingrushoftheriver.WhenmorningcametoCronje’sfarmitbroughtwithitnowarningnorsignofbattle.WebegantobelievethattheBritisharmywasaninventionoftheenemy’s.Sowecookedbaconandfedthedoves,andsmokedontheveranda,movingourchairsarounditwiththesun,andarguedastowhetherweshouldstaywherewewereorgoontothebridge.Atnoonitwasevidenttherewouldbenofightatthedriftthatday,sowestartedalongthebankoftheriver,withtheideaofreachingthebridgebeforenightfall.ThetraillayontheEnglishsideoftheriver,sothatwewereinconstantconcernlestourwhite-hoodedCapecartwouldbeseenbysomeoftheirscoutsandwewouldbetakenprisonersandforcedtotravelallthewaybacktoCapeTown.Wesawmanyherdsofdeer,butnoscoutsorlancers,and,suchbeingtheeffectofmanykopjes,lostallideasastowherewewere.WeknewwewerebearingsteadilysouthtowardLordRoberts,whoaswelaterlearned,wasthensomethreemilesdistant.Abouttwoo’clockhisgunsopenedonourleft,soweatleastknewthatwewerestillonthewrongsideoftheriverandthatwemustbebetweentheBoerandtheEnglishartillery.Exceptforthat,ourknowledgeofourgeographicalpositionwasablank,andweaccordingly“out-spanned”andcookedmorebacon.“Outspanning”isunharnessingtheponiesandmulesandturningthemoutgraze,andtakesthreeminutes“inspanning” is trying to catch them again,andtakesfromthreetofivehours.Westartedbackoverthetrailoverwhichwehadcome,andjustatsunsetsawamanappearfrombehindarockanddisappearagain.WhetherhewasBoerorBritonIcouldnottell,butwhileIwasexaminingtherockwithmyglassestwoBoerscamegallopingforwardandorderedmeto“handsup.”Tositwithbotharmsintheairisanextremelyignominiousposition,andespecially

annoyingiftheponyisrestless,soIcompromisedbywavingmywhipashighasIcouldreachwithonehand,andstillheldinthehorsewiththeother.Thethirdmanfrombehindtherockrodeupatthesametime.TheysaidtheyhadwatcheduscomingfromtheEnglishlines,andthatwewereprisoners.Weassuredthemthatforusnothingcouldbemoresatisfactory,becausewenowknewwherewewere,andbecausetheyhadprobablysavedusaweek’striptoCapeTown.Theyexaminedandapprovedofourcredentials,andshowedusthepropertrailwhichwemanagedtofollowuntiltheyhaddisappeared,whenthetraildisappearedalso,andwewereagainlostinwhatseemedaninterminablevalley.ButjustbeforenightfallthefiresofthecommandoshowedinfrontofusandwerodeintothecampofGeneralChristianDeWet.Hetolduswecouldnotreachthebridgethatnight,andshowedusafarm-houseonadistantkopjewherewecouldfindaplacetospreadourblankets.Iwasextremelygladtomeethim,asheandGeneralBothaarethemostableandbraveoftheBoergenerals.Hewasbig,manly,andofimpressivesize,and,althoughhespeaksEnglish, he dictated to his adjutant many long andOld-WorldcomplimentstotheGreaterRepublicacrosstheseas.Wefoundthepeopleinthefarm-houseonthedistantkopjequitehystericaloverthenearpresenceoftheBritish,andtheentireplaceinsuchanuproarthatwesleptoutintheveldt.InthemorningwewereawakenedbythesoundoftheVickar-Maxim or the “pom-pom” as the English call it, or “bomb-Maxim”astheBoerscallit.Byanynameitwasaremarkablegunandthemostdemoralizingofanyofthesmallerpieceswhichhavebeenusedinthiscampaign.Oneofitsvaluesisthatitsprojectilesthrowupsufficientdusttoenablethegunnertotellexactlywheretheystrike,andwithinafewsecondsheisabletoaltertherangeaccordingly.Inthiswayitisitsownrange-finder.Itsbarkisalmostasdangerousasitsbite,foritsreportshaveabrisk,insolentsoundlikeapostman’sknock,oracooperhammeringrapidlyonanemptykeg,andthereisanunexplainablemockingsoundtothereports,asthoughthegunwerelaughingatyou.TheEnglishTommiesusedtocallitveryaptlythe“hyenagun.”IfounditmuchlessoffensivefromtherearthanwhenIwaswiththeBritish,andinfrontofit.Fromthetopofakopjewesawthatthebattlehadatlastbegunandthatthebridgewastheobjectivepoint.TheEnglishcameupingreatlinesandblocksandfromsofarawayandinsuchcloseorderthatatfirstinspiteofthekhakitheylookedasthoughtheyworeuniformsofblue.Theyadvancedsteadily,andtwohourslaterwhenwehadriddentoakopjestillnearerthebridge,theywereapparentlyinthesameformationaswhenwehadfirstseenthem,onlynowfarmsthathadlainfarintheirrearwereoverrunbythemandtheyencompassedthewholebasin.Anarmyoftwenty-fivethousandmenadvancinginfullviewacross a great plain appealstoyouassomething

entirelylackinginthehumanelement.Youdonotthinkofitasacollectionofverytired,dusty,andperspiringmenwithachinglegsandparchedlips,butasanunnaturalphenomenon,oragiganticmonsterwhichwipesoutarailwaystation,acornfield,andavillagewithasingleclutchofoneofitstentacles.Youwouldassoonattributehumanqualitiestoaplague,atidalwave,oraslowlyslippinglandslide.Oneofthetentaclescomposedofsixthousandhorsehaddetacheditselfandcrossedtheriverbelowthebridge,whereitwascreepinguponBotha’sright.WecouldseetheburghersgallopingbeforeittowardVentersburg.AtthebridgeGeneralBothaandPresidentSteynstoodintheopenroadandwithupliftedarmswavedtheBoersback,callinguponthemtostand.Buttheburghersonlyshooktheirheadsandwithavertedeyesgrimlyandsilentlyrodebythemontheotherside.Theyknewtheywereflanked,theyknewthemeninthemovingmassinfrontofthemwereintheproportionofninetoone.WhenyoulookeddownuponthelinesoftheEnglisharmyadvancingforthreemilesacrosstheplain,onecouldhardlyblamethem.TheburghersdidnotevenraisetheirMausers.Onebullet,thesizeofabrokenslate-pencil,fallingintoablockthreemilesacrossandamiledeep,seemssoinadequate.Itwasliketryingtoturnbackthewavesoftheseawithablow-pipe.It is truetheyhadheldbackasmanyatColenso,but thedefensivepositionsthereweremagnificent,andsince thensixmonthshadpassed,duringwhichtimethesamethirtythousandmenwhohadbeenfightingthenwerefightingstill,whiletheenemywasalwaysnew,withfreshrecruitsandre-enforcementsarrivingdaily.AstheEnglishofficersatDurban,whohadsolatelyarrivedfromhomethattheyworeswords,used tosaywith theproudconsciousnessof twohundredthousandmenbackofthem:“Itwon’tlastmuchlongernow.TheBoershavehadtheirbellyfulloffighting.They’refeduponit; that’swhatit is;they’refedup.”TheyforgotthattheBoers,whoforthreemonthshadheldBullerbackattheTugela,werethesameBoerswhowererushedacrosstheFreeStatetorescueCronje fromRoberts, andwhowere then sent tomeet the relief column atFourteen Streams, and were then ordered back again to harass Roberts atSannahspost,andwho,at last,wornout,stale,heartsick,andhopelessat theunequaloddsandendlessfighting,fellbackatSandRiver.Forthreemonthsthirtythousandmenhadbeenattemptingtheimpossibletaskofendeavoringtomeetanequalnumberoftheenemyinthreedifferentplacesatthesametime.

I have seen a retreat inGreecewhen themen, before they left the trenches,stoodupinthemandragedandcursedattheadvancingTurk,cursedattheirgovernment, at their king, at each other, and retreated with shame in theirfacesbecausetheydidso.But theretreatof theburghersof theFreeStatewasnot like that.Theyroseonebyoneandsaddledtheirponies,withthelookintheirfacesofmenwhohadbeenattendingthefuneralofafriendandwhowereleavingjustbeforethecoffinwas swallowed in thegrave.Some of them, for a long time after thegreaternumberofthecommandohadriddenaway,satupontherocksstaringdownintothesunnyvalleybelowthem,talkingtogethergravely,risingtotakea last lookat the territorywhichwas theirown.The shellsof thevictoriousBritish sang triumphantly over the heads of their own artillery, burstingimpotentlyinwhitesmokeortearinguptheveldtinfountainsofdust.Buttheydidnotheedthem.Theydidnotevensenda revengefulbullet intotheapproachingmasses.Thesweetnessofrevengecouldnotpayforwhattheyhad lost.They lookeddownupon the farm-houses ofmen they knew; upontheirownfarm-housesrisinginsmoke;theysawtheEnglishmenlikeapestoflocusts settling down around gardens and farm-houses still nearer, andswallowingthemup.Theircompanions,alreadyfaron thewaytosafety,wavedto themfromtheveldttofollow;anexciteddoctorcarryingawoundedmanwarnedusthattheEnglish were just below, storming the hill. “Our artillery is aiming at fivehundredyards,”heshouted,butstilltheremainingburghersstoodimmovable,leaningontheirrifles,silent,homeless,lookingdownwithoutrageorshowoffeeling at the great waves of khaki sweeping steadily toward them, andpossessingtheirland.

THEJAPANESE-RUSSIANWAR:BATTLESIDIDNOTSEEWeknewitwasabattlebecausetheJapaneseofficerstoldusitwas.InotherwarsIhadseenotherbattles,manysortsofbattles,butIhadneverseenabattlelikethatone.Mostbattlesarenoisy,hurried,andviolent,givingrisetoanunnaturalthirstandtothedelusionthat,bysomeunhappycoincidence,everymanontheothersideisshootingonlyatyou.Thisdelusionisnotpeculiartomyself.Manymenhavetoldmethatintheconfusionofbattletheyalways get this exaggerated idea of their own importance. Down inCuba Iheardacolonel informagroupofbrotherofficers that aSpanish field-piecehadmarkedhim for itsown,and for anhourhadbeenpumping shrapnel athimandatnooneelse.Theinterestingpartofthestorywasthathebelievedit.But thebattleofAnshantienwasinnowaydisquieting.Itwasanoiseless,

odorless,rubber-tiredbattle.Sofaraswewereconcerneditconsistedofringsofshrapnelsmokefloatingoveramountainpassmanymilesdistant.Somanymilesdistantthatwhen,withaglass,youcouldseeaspeckoffiretwinkleinthesunlikeaheliograph,youcouldnottellwhetheritwastheflashfromthegunortheflamefromtheshell.NeithercouldyoutellwhetherthecigaretteringsissuedfromthelipsoftheJapanesegunsorfromthoseoftheRussians.Theonlythingaboutthatbattleofwhichyouwerecertainwasthatitwasaperfectlysafebattletowatch.ItwasthefirstoneIeverwitnessedthatdidnotrequireyoutocalmlysmokeapipeinordertoconcealthefactthatyouwerescared.Butsoothingasitwas,thebattlelackedwhatiscalledthehumaninterest.Theremayhavebeenmenbehindtheguns,butastheywerealsobehindCamelHillandSaddleMountain,eightmilesaway,oureyes,likethoseofMr.SamuelWeller,“beingonlyeyes,”werenotabletodiscoverthem.Ourteachers,thethreeJapaneseofficerswhoweredetailedtotellusaboutthingswewerenotallowedtosee,gazedatthesceneofcarnagewithwell-simulatedhorror.Theirexpressionsofcountenanceshowedthatshouldanyonemovethebattleeightmilesnearer,theywerepreparedtoselltheirlivesdearly.Whentheyfoundthatnoneofuswere lookingat themor theirbattle,theywerehurt.Thereasonnoonewaslookingatthemwasbecausemostofushadgonetosleep.Therest,withabitterexperienceofJapanesepromises,haddoubted there would be a battle, and had prepared themselves withnewspapers.And so,while eightmiles away the preliminary battle to Liao-Yangwasmakinghistory,wewerelyingonthegrassreadingtwomonths’oldnewsoftheSt.LouisConvention.Thesightgreatlydisturbedourteachers.“Youcomplain,”theysaid,“becauseyouarenotallowedtoseeanything,andnow,whenweshowyouabattle,youwillnotlook.”Lewis,oftheHerald,eagerlyseizedhisglassesandfollowedthetrackoftheSiberianrailwayasitdisappearedintothepass.“Ibegyourpardon,butIdidn’tknowitwasabattle,”heapologizedpolitely.“IthoughtitwasalocomotiveatAnshantienStationblowingoffsteam.”And,so,teachergavehimabadmarkfordisrespect.Itreallywastrying.In order to see this battlewe had travelled half around theworld, had thenwaitedfourwastedmonthsatTokio,thenhadtakenaseavoyageoftendays,thenfortwelvedayshadriddenthroughmudanddustinpursuitofthearmy,

thenfortwelvemoredays,whilebattlesragedtenmilesaway,hadbeenkeptprisoners inacompoundwherefiveoutof theeighteencorrespondentsweresickwithdysenteryor fever, and finally as a rewardwewere released fromcaptivityandtakentoseesmokeringseightmilesaway!Thatnightaround-robin,whichwassignedbyall,wassenttoGeneralOku,pointingouttohimthat unless we were allowed nearer to his army than eight miles, ourusefulnesstothepeoplewhopaidusoursalarieswasatanend.Whilewaitingforananswertothiswewereledouttoseeanotherbattle.Eitherthatwemightnotmissoneminuteofit,orthatweshouldbetoosleepytoseeanythingofit,wewerestartedinblackdarkness,atthreeo’clockinthemorning,thehour,aswearetold,whenone’svitalityisatitslowest,andonewhichshouldbereservedfortheexclusiveuseofburglarsandrobbersofhenroosts.ConcerningthathourIlearnedthis,thatwhateveritseffectsmaybeuponhumanbeings,itfindsahorseathismoststrenuousmoment.Atthathourbythelightofthreepaperlanternswetriedtosaddleeighteenhorses,donkeys,andponies,andthesoleobjectofeachwastokickthelightoutofthelanternnearesthim.Wefinallyrodeoffthroughadarknessthatwaslightenedonlybyagray,drippingfog,andinasilencebrokenonlybythepatterofrainuponthecornthattoweredhighaboveourheadsandformanymileshemmedusin.Afteranhour,Sataki,theteacherwhoactedasourguide,lostthetrailandCaptainLionelJames,oftheTimes,whowrote“OntheHeelsofDeWet,”founditforhim.Sataki,soourtwootherkeeperstoldus,isanauthorityoninternationallaw,andhemaybeallofthatandknowallthereistoknowofthree-milelimitsandpaperblockades,butwhenitcametopickingupatrail,eveninthebrightsunlightwhenitlaywelteringbeneathhishorse’snostrils,wealwaysfoundthatanycorrespondentwithanexperienceofafewcampaignswasofmoregeneraluse.Thetrailendedatamuddyhill,abaresugar-loafofahill,ashighasthemaintentofacircusandasabruptlyslopingaway.Itwassweptbyadamp,chillingwind;amean,peevishrainwasheditssides,andtheyweresosteepthatifwesatuponthemwetobogganedslowlydownward,ploughing upthemudwithourbootheels.Hungry,sleepy,inutterdarkness,weclungtothisslipperymoundinitsoceanofwhisperingmilletlikesailorswreckedinmid-seauponarock,andwaitedfortheday.Aftertwohoursagraymistcamegrudgingly,treesandrocksgrewoutofit,trenchesappearedatourfeet,andwhathadbeforelookedlikealakeofwaterbecameamudvillage.Then, likeshadows, theforeignattachés,whomwefondlyhopedmightturnouttobeRussianCossackscomingtotakeusprisonersandcarryusofftobreakfast,rodeupinsilenceandwerehaltedatthebaseofthehill.Itseemednow,theaudiencebeingassembled,theorchestramightbegin.Butnohot-throatedcannonbrokethechilling,dripping,silence,noupheavaloftheair

spokeofCanetguns,nowhirlingshrapnelscreamedandburst.Instead,thefogrolledbackshowingusmilesofwavingcorn,thewetrailsoftheSiberianRailroadglisteningintherain,and,maskingthehorizon,thesamemountainsfromwhichthedaybeforethesmokeringshadascended.Theynowweredark,brooding,theirtopshoodedinclouds.SomewhereinfrontofushiddenintheKiao liang,hiddeninthetinyvillages,crouchingonthebanksofstreams,concealedintrenchesthatwerethemselvesconcealed,Oku’sarmy,thearmytowhichweweresupposedtobelong,wasburiedfromoursight.AndinthemountainsonourrightlaytheFourthArmy,andtwentymilesstillfarthertotheright,KurokiwasclosinginuponLiao-Yang.Allofthisweguessed,whatweweretoldwasverydifferent,whatwesawwasnothing.Inall,fourhundredthousandmenwerenotfartherfromusthanfourtothirtymilesandwesawnothing.Wewatchedasthecommissariatwagonscarryingfoodtothesemenpassedusby,thehospitalstorespassedusby,thetransportcartspassedusby,thecoolieswithreservemounts,thelastwoundedsoldier,straggler,andcamp-followerpassedusby.LikeabigtidalwaveOku’sarmyhadsweptforwardleavingitsunwelcomeguests,theattachésandcorrespondents,fortylonelyforeignersamongseventythousandJapanese,strandeduponahillmilesintherear.Perhaps,aswar,itwasnecessary,butitwasnotmagnificent.ThatnightMajorOkabe,ourheadteacher,gaveustheofficialinterpretationofwhathadoccurred.TheRussians,hesaid,hadretreatedfromLiao-Yangandwereinopenflight.UnlessGeneralKuroki,who,hesaid,wasfiftymilesnorthofus,couldcutthemofftheywouldreachMukdenintendays,anduntilthentherewouldbenomorefighting.TheJapanesetroops,hesaid,wereinLiao-Yang,ithadbeenabandonedwithoutafight.ThishetoldusontheeveningofthethofAugust.ThenextmorningMajorOkabedelivered theanswerofGeneralOku toourround-robin.He informedus thatwehadbeenasnear to the fightingasweeverwouldbeallowedtogo.Thenearestwehadbeentoanyfightingwasfourmiles.Ourexperiencehad taughtus thatwhen theJapanesepromiseduswewouldbeallowed todosomethingwewanted todo, theydidnotkeep theirpromise;butthatwhentheysaidwewouldnotbeallowedtodosomethingwewantedtodo,theyspokethetruth.Consequently,whenGeneralOkudeclaredthecorrespondentswouldbeheldfourmilesintherear,webelievedhewouldkeep his word. And, as we now know, he did, the only men who saw thefighting that later ensuedbeing thosewhodisobeyedhisordersandescapedfrom their keepers. Those who had been ordered by their papers to strictlyobeytheregulationsof theJapanese,and themilitaryattachés,werekeptbyOkunearlysixmilesintherear.

WarcorrespondentsinManchuria.FromaphotographbyGuyScull.R.H.Davis(Collier’s),W.H.Lewis(NewYorkHerald),JohnFox,Jr.(Scribner’s),W.H.Brill(AssociatedPress)On the receipt ofOku’s answer to the correspondents,Mr. JohnFox, Jr., ofScribner’sMagazine,Mr.MiltonPrior, of theLondon IllustratedNews,Mr.GeorgeLynch,of theLondonMorningChronicle, andmyselfleftthearmy.Wewereverysorrytogo.Apartfromthefactthatwehadnotbeenallowedtoseeanythingofthemilitaryoperations,wewereenjoyingourselvesimmensely.Personally,IneverwentonacampaigninamoredelightfulcountrynorwithbettercompanionsthanthemenactingascorrespondentswiththeSecondArmy.Forthesakeofsuchgoodcompany,andtoseemoreofManchuria,Ipersonallywantedtokeepon.ButIwasnotbeingpaidtogocampingwithasetofgoodfellows.AlreadytheJapanesehadwastedsixmonthsofmytimeandsixmonthsofMr.Collier’smoney,Mr.Foxhadbeenbottledupforaperiodofequallength,whileMr.PriorandMr.LynchhadbeenprisonersinTokioforevenfourmonthslonger.AndnowthatOkabeassuredusthatLiao-Yangwasalreadytaken,andOkutoldusiftherewereanyfightingwewouldnotbeallowedtowitnessit,itseemedagoodtimetoquit.Othercorrespondentswouldhavequitthen,asmostofthemdidtendayslater,butthattheirworkandoursinaslightdegreediffered.Aswewerenotworkingfordailypapers,we used the cable but seldom, while they used iteveryday.Each eveningOkabe brought them the official account of battlesandofthemovementsofthetroops,whichnewsofeventswhichtheyhadnotwitnessed they sent to their separate papers. But for our purposes it wasnecessary we should see things for ourselves. For, contrary to the popularaccusation,nomatterhowflatteringitmaybe,wecouldnotdescribeeventsatwhichwewerenotpresent.Butwhatmainlymovedustodecide,wasthestatementsofOkabe,theofficerespeciallydetailedbytheWarOfficetoaidandinstructus,toactasourguide,philosopher,andfriend,ouronlyofficialsourceofinformation,whotoldusthatLiao-YangwasoccupiedbytheJapaneseandthattheRussianswereinretreat.HeevenbeggedmepersonallytocomewithhimintoLiao-Yangontheth and see how it was progressing under the control of the Japaneseauthorities.Okabe’s newsmeant that the great battleKuropatkin had promised at Liao-Yang,andwhichwehadcometosee,wouldnevertakeplace.WhyOkabeliedIdonotknow.WhetherOkuhadliedtohim,orwhetheritwasBaron-GeneralKodamaorMajor-GeneralFukushimawhohadinstructed

himtosogrosslymisinformus,itisimpossibletosay.WhileinTokio no oneevermorefrequently,normoreunblushingly,madestatementsthattheyknewwereuntruethandidKodamaandFukushima,butnoneoftheirdeceptionshadeverharmedussogreatlyasdidthelietheyputintothemouthofOkabe.NotonlyhadtheJapanesenotoccupiedLiao-YangontheeveningofthethofAugust,butlater,aseverybodyknows,theyhadtofightsixdaystogetintoit.AndKuroki,sofarfrombeingfiftymilesnorthtowardMukdenasOkabesaidhewas,wastwentymilestotheeastonourrightpreparingfortheclosinginmovementwhichwasjustabouttobegin.Threedaysafterwehadleftthearmy,thegreatestbattlesinceSedanwaswagedforsixdays.Soourhalfyearoftimeandmoney,ofdrearywaiting,ofdailyhumiliationsatthe hands of officerswithminds diseased by suspicion, all ofwhichwouldhavebeenmadeup tousby thesightof thisonegreatspectacle,was to theend absolutely lost to us. Perhaps wemade a mistake in judgment. As thecardsfell,wecertainlydid.Butaftertheeventitiseasytobewise.Forthelastfifteenyears,hadIknownasmuchthenightbeforetheGrandPrixwasrunasIdidthenextafternoon,Iwouldbepassingrich.Theonlypropositionbeforeuswasthis:Therewassmallchanceofanyimmediatefighting.Iftherewerefightingwecouldnotseeit.Confrontedwiththesameconditionsagain,Iwoulddecideinexactlythesamemanner.Ourmisfortunelayinthefactthatourexperiencewithotherarmieshadledustobelievethatofficersandgentlemenspeakthe truth, that men with titles ofnobility,andwiththehighertitlesofgeneralandmajor-general,donotlie.Inthatweweremistaken.The parting from the other correspondents was a brutal attack upon thefeelings which, had we known they were to follow us two weeks later toTokio,wouldhavebeensparedus.Itisworthrecordingwhy,afterwaitingmanymonthstogettothefront,theyintheirturnsosoonleftit.AftereachofthebigbattlesbeforeLiao-YangtheyhandedthedespatchestheyhadwrittenfortheirpaperstoMajorOkabe.Eachdayhetoldthemthesedespatcheshadbeencensoredandforwarded.Afterthreedayshebroughtbackallthedespatchesandcalmlyinformedthecorrespondentsthatnotoneoftheircableshadbeensent.ItwasthefinalaffrontofJapaneseduplicity.Inrecordingthegreatestbattleofmoderntimesthreedayshadbeenlost,andbyalie.TheobjectoftheircomingtotheFarEasthadbeenfrustrated.ItwasfatuoustolongerexpectfromKodamaandhispupilsfairplayorhonesttreatment,andintheinterestoftheiremployersandtosavetheirownself-respect,therepresentativesofallthemostimportantpapersintheworld,theTimes,ofLondon,theNewYorkHerald,theParisFigaro,theLondonDailyTelegraph,DailyMail,andMorningPost,quittheJapanesearmy.

Meanwhile, unconscious of what we had missed, the four of us werecongratulatingourselvesuponourescape,andhadstarted forNew-Chwang.OurfirsthaltwasatHai-Cheng, in the same compound in which for manydayswiththeotherswehadbeenimprisoned.Butourhaltwasabriefone.Wefound the compound glaring in the sun, empty, silent, filled only withmemories of themenwho,with their laughter, their stories, and their songshadmadeitlive.Butnowallweregone,theoldfamiliarfacesandthefamiliarvoices,andwethrewourthingsbackonthecartsandhurriedaway.ThetrailsbetweenHai-ChengandtheseamadetheworstgoingwehadencounteredinManchuria.YousoonareconvincedthatthetimehasnotbeenlongsincethistractoflandlayentirelyunderthewatersoftheGulfofLiaotung.Yousoonscentthesaltair,andasyouflounderinthealluvialdepositsofages,youexpecttofindthesalt-waterattheveryrootsofthemillet.Waterliesineveryfurrowofthemilesofcornfields,waterflowsinstreamsintheroads,waterspreadsinlakesoverthecompounds,itoozesfrombeneaththeverywallsofthego-downs.Youwouldnotbesurprisedatanymomenttoseethetidereturningtoenvelopyou.Inthisliquidmudacartcanmakeatrailbythesimpleprocessofcontinuingforward.Thehavociscreatedinthemilletandtheditchesitsiron-studdedwheelsdiginthemudleavetotheeyesofthenextcomerasperfectlygoodatrailastheonethathasbeeninuseformanycenturies.Consequentlytheopportunitiesforchoosingthewrongtrailareexcellent,andweembracedeveryopportunity.ButfriendlyChinamen,andcertainlytheyareafriendly,humanpeople,againandagaincheerfullywentfaroutoftheirwaytoguideusbacktoours,andso,aftertwodays,wefoundourselvesfivemilesfromNew-Chwang.Hereweagreedtoseparate.Wehadheardamarvellous tale that at New-Chwangtherewasice,champagne,andahotelwithenamelledbath-tubs.Wehadunceasinglydiscussedtheprobabilityofthisbeingtrue,andwhatwewoulddowiththeseluxuriesifwegotthem,andwhenwecamesoneartowheretheyweresupposedtobe,itwasagreedthatoneofuswouldrideonaheadandcommandthem,whiletheothersfollowedwiththecarts.TheluckynumberfelltoJohnFox,andheleftusatagallop.Hewastoengageroomsforthefour,andtoarrangeforthecareofsevenJapaneseinterpretersandservants,nineChinesecoolies,andnineteenhorsesandmules.Weexpectedthatbyeighto’clockwewouldbeeatingthebestdinnerJohnFoxcouldorder.Weweremistaken.NotthatJohnFoxhadnotorderedthedinner,butnooneateitbutJohnFox.TheveryminuteheleftusPriory’scartturnedturtleinthemud,andthelargestofhisfourmuleslaydowninitandknockedoffwork.Themulewashotandverytired,andthemudwassoft,cool,andwet,soheburrowedunderitsprotectingsurfaceuntilallwecouldseeofhimwas his

ears.Thecooliesshriekedathim,Priorissuedultimatumsathim,theJapaneseservantsstoodondrylandfifteenfeetawayandtalkedabouthim,butheonlysnuggleddeeper intohismudbath.When there is nomoreof amule tohitthanhisears,hehasyouatagreatdisadvantage,andwhenthecoolieswadedin and tugged at his head,we found that theharder they tugged, the deepertheysank.Whentheyweresofaroutofsightthatwewereindangeroflosingthemtoo,weorderedthemtogiveupthestruggleandunloadthecart.Beforewegotitoutofdry-dock,reloaded,andagaininlinewiththeothercartsitwasnineo’clock,anddark.Inthemeantime,Lynch,hissenseofdutyweakenedbyvisionsofenamelledbathtubsfilledwithchampagneandfloatinglumpsofice,hadsecretlyabandonedus,stealingawayinthenightandleavingustofollow.This,nottenminutesafterwehadstarted,Mr.Priordecidedthathewouldnotdo,sohecampedoutwiththecartsinavillage,while,dinnerless,supperless, andthirsty, I rodeonalone. I reachedNew-Chwangatmidnight,andafterbeingrefused admittance by the Japanese soldiers, was finally rescued by theNumberOnemanfromtheManchuriaHotel,whohadbeensentoutbyFoxwithtwosikhsandalanterntofindme.ForsomeminutesIdarednotaskhimthefatefulquestions.Itwasbetterstilltohopethantoputone’sfortunestothetest.ButIfinallysummonedmycourage.“Ice,havegot?”Ibegged.“Havegot,”heanswered.Therewas a long, grateful pause, and then in a voice that trembled, I againasked,“Champagne,havegot?”NumberOnemannodded.“Havegot,”hesaid.Itotallyforgotuntilthenextmorningtoaskabouttheenamelledbathtubs.WhenIarrivedJohnFoxhadgonetobed,andasitwassixweekssinceanyofushadseenarealbed,Ididnotwakehim.Hence,hedidnotknowIwasinthehotel,andthroughoutthetroublesthatfollowedIsleptsoundly.Meanwhile,Lynch,asapunishment for runningaway fromus, losthisownway, and, after stumbling into anold sowandher litterofpigs,whichon adarknightisenoughtostartleanyone,stumbledintoaJapaneseoutpost,washailedasaRussianspy,andmadeprisoner.Thishadoneadvantage,ashenowwas able to find New-Chwang, to which place he was marched, closelyguarded, arriving there at half-past two in themorning. Since he ran away

fromushehadbeenwanderingaboutonfootfortenhours.HesentanotetoMr. Little, the British Consul, and to Bush Brothers, the kings of New-Chwang,and,stilltormentedbyvisionsoficeandchampagne,demandedthathiscaptorstakehimtotheManchuriaHotel.TherehesworetheywouldfindapassfromFukushimaallowinghimtoenterNew-Chwang,threefriendswhocouldidentifyhim,fourcarts,sevenservants,ninecoolies,andnineteenanimals.ThecommandanttookhimtotheManchuriaHotel,whereinsteadofthiswealthofcorroborativedetailtheyfoundJohnFoxinbed.AsPrior, theonlyoneofusnotinNew-Chwang,hadthepassfromFukushima,permittingustoenterit,therewasnoonetoprovewhateitherLynchorFoxsaid,andtheofficer flew into a passion and toldFoxhewould sendbothof themout oftownonthefirsttrain.Mr.FoxwasannoyedatbeingpulledfromhisbedatthreeinthemorningtobetoldhewasaRussianspy,sohesaidthattherewasnotatrainfastenoughtogethimoutofNew-Chwangasquicklyashewantedtogo,or,forthatmatter,outofJapanandawayfromtheJapanesepeople.Atthistheofficer,beingaYalegraduate,andspeakingverypureEnglish,toldMr.Foxto“shutup,”andMr.FoxbeingaHarvardgraduate,withanequallyperfectcommandofEnglish,pureandundefiled,shookhisfistinthefaceoftheJapaneseofficerandtoldhimto“shutupyourself.”Lynch,seeingthewitnesshehadsummonedforthedefence about to plunge into conflict withhiscaptor, leapedunhappily fromfoot to foot,andwashearddiplomaticallysuggestingthatallhandsshouldadjournforiceandchampagne.“IfIwereaspy,”demandedFox,“doyousupposeIwouldhaveriddenintoyour town on a white horse and registered at your head-quarters and thenordered four rooms at the principal hotel and accommodations for sevenservants, nine coolies, and nineteen animals? Is that theway a Russian spyworks?Doeshegoaroundwithabrassband?”Theofficer,unabletoanswerinkindthisexcellentreasoning,tookameanadvantageofhispositionbyplacingbothJohnandLynchunderarrest,andattheheadofeachbedaJapanesepolicemantoguardtheirslumbers.ThenextmorningPriorarrivedwiththepass,andfromthedecksofthefirstout-boundEnglishsteamerFoxhurledthroughthecaptain’sbrassspeaking-trumpetourfarewellstotheJapanese,asrepresentedbythegun-boatsintheharbor.Theirofficers,probablythinkinghisremarksreferredtofloatingmines,raneagerlytotheside.Butourship’scaptaintumbledfromthebridge,rescuedhistrumpet,andbeggedFox,untilwewereunderthegunsofaBritishman-of-war,toissuenomorefarewelladdresses.ThenexteveningwepassedintotheGulfofPe-chi-li, and saw above Port Arthur the great guns flashing in thenight,andthenextdayweanchoredinthesnugharborofChefoo.IwentatoncetothecablestationtocableCollier’sIwasreturning,andasked

theChinaman in charge ifmynamewasonhis list of those correspondentswhocouldsendcopycollect.Hesaiditwas;andasIstartedtowrite,headdedwithgravepoliteness,“Icongratulateyou.”ForamomentIdidnotliftmyeyes.Ifeltachillcreepingdownmyspine.Iknewwhatsortofablowwascoming,andIwasafraidofit.“Why?”Iasked.TheChinamanbowedandsmiled.“Becauseyouarethefirst,”hesaid.“YouaretheonlycorrespondenttoarrivewhohasseenthebattleofLiao-Yang.”Thechillturnedtoasortofnausea.Iknewthenwhatdisasterhadfallen,butIcheated myself by pretending the man was misinformed. “There was nobattle,”Iprotested.“TheJapanesetoldmethemselvestheyhadenteredLiao-Yangwithoutfiringashot.”Thecableoperatorwasagentleman.Hesawmydistress, saw what it meant and delivered the blow with the distaste of aphysicianwhomusttellapatienthecannotrecover.Gently, reluctantly,withrealsympathyhesaid,“Theyhavebeenfightingforsixdays.”Iwentovertoabench,andsatdown;andwhenLynchandFoxcameinandtookonelookatme,theyguessedwhathadhappened.WhentheChinamantoldthemofwhatwehadbeencheated,they,intheirturn,cametothebench,andcollapsed.Noonesaidanything.Nooneevenswore.SixmonthswehadwaitedonlytomissbythreedaysthegreatestbattlesinceGettysburgandSedan.Andbyalie.Forsixmonthswehadtastedalltheindignitiesofthesuspectedspy,wehadbeenprisonersofwar,wehadbeenticket-of-leavemen,anditisnotdifficulttoimagineourgladsurprisethatsamedaywhenwesawintheharborthewhitehullofthecruiserCincinnatiwithourflagliftingatherstern.Wedidnotknowasoulonboard,butthatdidnothaltus.Asrefugees,asfleeingpoliticalprisoners,asAmericanslavesescapingfromtheirJapanesejailers,weclimbedoverthesideanddemandedprotectionanddinner.Wegotboth.Perhapsitwasnotgoodtorestonthatbitofdrift-wood,thatatomofourcountrythathadfloatedfarfromthemainlandandnowformedanislandofAmericanterritoryintheharborofChefoo.Perhapswewerenotcontenttositatthemahoganytableintheglisteningwhiteandbrassboundwardroomsurroundedbythoseeager,sunburnedfaces,tohearseaslangandhomeslangintheaccentsofMaine,Virginia,andNewYorkCity.Weforgotourdark-skinnedkeeperswiththeslanting,suspicious,unfriendlyeyes,withtonguesthatspoketheonethingandmeanttheother.Allthememoriesofthosesixmonthsofdeceit,ofbrokenpledges,ofunnecessaryhumiliations,ofpetty

unpolitenessfromahalf-educated,half-bred,conceited,andarrogantpeoplefellfromuslikeaheavyknapsack.Wewereagainathome.Again with ourownpeople.OutofthehappyconfusionofthatgreatoccasionIrecalltwotoasts.OnewasofferedbyJohnFox.“JapanfortheJapanese,andtheJapaneseforJapan.”EventheJapanesewardroomboydidnotcatchitssignificance.TheotherwasaparaphraseofacoupletinreferencetoourbrownbrothersofthePhilippinesfirstspokeninManila.“TotheJapanese:‘TheymaybebrotherstoCommodorePerry,buttheyain’t no brothers ofmine.’”Itwasajoyousnight.LieutenantGilmore,whohadbeenanhistoricprisonerinthePhilippines,sofarsympathizedwithourescapefromtheYellowPerilasto intercedewith thecaptain toextend therulesof theship.And thoserulesthatwereincapableofextendingbroke.Indeed,Ibelievewebrokeeverythingbut the eight-inch gun.And finally wewere conducted to our steamer in alaunch crowded with slim-waisted, broad-chested youths in white messjackets,claspingeachother’sshouldersandsinging,“Waydowninmyheart,Ihaveafeelingforyou,asortoffeelingforyou”;whiletheofficerofthedeckturnedhisback,anddiscreetlyfixedhisnightglassuponasuspiciousstar.It was an American cruiser that rescued this war correspondent from thebondageofJapan. Itwill require all thebattle-ships in the Japanesenavy toforcehimbacktoit.

AWARCORRESPONDENT’SKITIamgoingtotrytodescribesomekitsandoutfitsIhaveseenusedindifferentpartsoftheworldbytravellersandexplorers,andindifferentcampaignsbyarmyofficersandwarcorrespondents.Amongthearticles,thereadermaylearnofsomenewthingwhich,whennexthegoeshunting,fishing,orexploring,hecanadapttohisownuses.Thatismyhope,butIamsceptical.Ihaveseldommetthemanwhowouldallowany oneelsetoselecthiskit,orwhowouldadmitthatanyotherkitwasbetterthantheonehehimselfhadpacked.Itisaverydelicatequestion.Thesamearticlethatonedeclaresisthemostessentialtohiscomfort,istheveryfirstthingthatanotherwillthrowintothetrail.Aman’soutfitisamatterwhichseemstotouchhisprivatehonor.Ihaveheardveteranssittingaroundacamp-fireproclaimthesuperiorityoftheirkitswithajealousy,loyalty,andenthusiasmtheywouldnotexhibitforthefleshoftheirfleshandtheboneoftheirbone.Onacampaign,youmayattackaman’scourage,theflagheserves,thenewspaperforwhichheworks,hisintelligence,orhiscampmanners,andhewillignoreyou;butifyoucriticisehispatentwater-bottlehewillfalluponyouwithbothfists.So,inrecommendinganyarticleforanoutfit,oneneedstobecareful.Anoutfit

lendsitselftodispute,becausetheselectionofitscomponentpartsisnotanexactscience.Itshouldbe,butitisnot.Adoctoronhisdailyroundscancarryinacompactlittlesatchelalmosteverythingheisliabletoneed;acarpentercanstowawayinoneboxallthetoolsofhistrade.Butanoutfitisnotselectedonanyrecognizedprinciples.Itseemstobeaquestionentirelyoftemperament.Asthemansaidwhenhisfriendsaskedhimhowhemadehisfamouscocktail,“Itdependsonmymood.”Thetruthisthateachmaninselectinghisoutfitgenerallyfollowsthelinesofleastresistance.Withone,thepleasurehederivesfromhismorningbathoutweighsthefactthatfortherestofthedayhemustcarryarubberbathtub.Anothermanishearty,tough,andinuredtoanout-of-doorlife.Hecansleeponapileofcoalorstandingonhishead,andhenaturallyscornstocarryabed.Butanotherman,shouldhesleepallnightontheground,thenextdaywouldbeofnousetohimself,hisregiment,orhisnewspaper.Sohecarriesafoldingcotandthemorefortunateoneoftougherfibrelaughsathim.Anothermansaysthattheonlywaytocampaignistotravel“light,”andsetsforthwithrain-coatandfield-glass.Hehonestlythinksthathetravelslightbecausehisintelligencetellshimitisthebetterway;but,asamatteroffact,hedoessobecauseheislazy.Throughouttheentirecampaignheborrowsfromhisfriends,andwiththatcamaraderieandunselfishnessthatnevercomestothesurfacesostronglyaswhenmenarethrowntogetherincamp,theylendhimwhateverheneeds.Whenthewarisover,heisthemanwhogoesaboutsaying:“Someofthosefellowscarriedenoughstufftofillamovingvan.Now,lookwhatIdid.Imadetheentirecampaignonatooth-brush.”Asamatteroffact,Ihaveasneakingadmirationforthemanwhodarestoborrow.Hisreallyisthepartofwisdom.Butattimeshemaylosehimselfinplaceswherehecanneitheraborrowernoralenderbe,andtherearemensotenderlyconstitutedthattheycannotkeepanothermanhungrywhiletheyusehiscoffee-pot.Soitiswelltotakeafewthingswithyouif only to lend themtothemenwhotravel“light.”Onhuntingandcampaigningtripstheclimate,themeansoftransport,andthechancealong the roadofobtaining foodandfoddervarysogreatly that it isnotpossibletomapoutanoutfitwhichwouldserveequallywellforeachofthem.Whatononejourneywasyourmostpreciouspossessiononthenextisauselessnuisance.OntwotripsIhavepackedatentweighing,withthestakes,fiftypounds,which,asweslept inhuts, Ineveroncehadoccasion toopen;whileonothertripsincountriesthatpromisedtobemoreorlesssettled,Ihadtoalwaysliveundercanvas,andsometimesbrokecamptwiceaday.Inonewar,inwhichIworkedforanEnglishpaper,wetravelledlikemajor-generals.Whenthatwarstartedfewthoughtitwouldlastoversixweeks,and

manyoftheofficersregardeditinthelightofapicnic.Inconsequence,theymobilizedastheyneverwouldhavedonehadtheyforeseenwhatwastocome,andthemesscontractorgrewrichfurnishing,notonlychampagne,whichincampaignsinfevercountrieshassavedthelifeofmanyagoodman,butcasesofevenportandburgundy,whichnevergreatlyhelpedanyone.Laterthesemesssupplieswereturnedovertothefield-hospitals,butatthestarteveryonetravelledwithmorethanheneededandmorethantheregulationsallowed,andeachcorrespondentwasadvisedthatifherepresentedafirst-classpaperandwishedto“savehisface”hehadbettertravelinstate.Those who did not,found the staff and censor less easy of access, and the means of obtaininginformationmoredifficult.Butitwasanuisance.If,whenamanhaltedatyourtent,youcouldnotstandhimwhiskeyandsparkletsoda,Egyptiancigarettes,compressedsoup,cannedmeats,andmarmalade,yourpaperwassuspectedoftryingtodoit“onthecheap,”andnotonlyofbeingmean,but,asthiswasapopularwar,unpatriotic.Whenthearmystrippeddowntoworkallthiswasdiscontinued,butatthestartIbelievetherewerecarriedwiththatcolumnasmanytinsoftan-leatherdressingastherewererifles.Onthatmarchmyownoutfitwasasunwieldyasagypsy’scaravan.Itconsistedofanenormouscart,twooxen,threeBasutoponies,oneAustralianhorse,threeservants,andfourhundredpoundsofsuppliesandbaggage.WhenitmovedacrosstheplainitlookedaslargeasaFallRiverboat.Later,whenIjoinedtheopposingarmy,andwasnotexpectedtomaintainthedignityofagreatLondondaily,Icarriedallmybelongingsstrappedtomyback,ortothebackofmyonepony,andIwasquiteascomfortable,clean,andcontentasIhadbeenwiththeprivatecarandthecircustent.ThroughouttheGreekwar,astherewerenohorsestobehadforloveormoney,wewalked,andIlearnedthenthatwhenonehastocarryhisownkitthenumberofthingshecandowithoutisextraordinary.WhileImarchedwiththearmy,offeringmykingdomforahorse,Icarriedmyoutfitinsaddle-bagsthrownovermyshoulder.AndIthink it must have been a good outfit,forIneverboughtanythingtoaddtoitorthrewanythingaway.Isubmitthatasafairtestofakit.Furtheron,shouldanyreadercaretoknowhowforseveralmonthsonemaykeepgoingwithanoutfithecanpackintwosaddle-bags,IwillgivealistofthearticleswhichinthreecampaignsIcarriedinmine.Personally, Iamfor travelling“light,”butat theverystartone isconfrontedwiththefactthatwhatonemancallslighttoanothersavorsofluxury.Icallfiftypoundslight;inJapanweeachwereallowedtheofficer’sallowanceofsixty-sixpounds.LordWolseley,inhis“Pocketbook,”cutsdowntheofficer’s

kittofortypounds,while“Nessmut,”oftheForestandStream,claimsthatforahuntingtrip,allonewantsdoesnotweighovertwenty-sixpounds.Itisverylargelyaquestionofcompromise.Youcannoteatyourcakeandhaveit.Youcannot,underatropicalsun,throwawayyourblanketandwhenthenightdewfallswrap itaroundyou.And if, afteradayofhardclimbingor riding,youwant to drop into a folding chair, tomake room for it in your carry-all youmustgiveupmanyotherlesserthings.BytravellinglightIdonotmeananylighterthanthenecessitydemands.Ifthereistransportathand,amanisfoolishnottoavailhimselfofit.Heisalwaysfoolishifhedoesnotmakethingsaseasyforhimselfaspossible.Thetenderfootwillnotagreewiththis.Withhimthereisnoideasofixed,andnoideasoabsurd,asthattobecomfortableistobeeffeminate.Hebelievesthat“roughingit”issynonymouswithhardship,andinseasonandoutofseasonheplaystheSpartan.Anymanwhosuffersdiscomfortshecanavoidbecausehefearshiscomradeswillthinkhecannotsufferhardshipsisanidiot.Youoftenhearitsaidofamanthat“hecanroughitwiththebestofthem.”Anyonecandothat.ThemanIwantfora“bunkie” is the one who can be comfortablewhilethebestofthemareroughingit.Theoldsoldierknowsthatitishisdutyto keep himself fit, so that he can perform his work, whether his work isscoutingforforageorscoutingformen,butyouwilloftenhearthevolunteercaptainsay:“Now,boys,don’tforgetwe’reroughingit;anddon’texpecttobecomfortable.”Asarule,theonlyreasonhismenareuncomfortableisbecausehe does not knowhow tomake themotherwise; or because he thinks, on acampaign,toendureunnecessaryhardshipisthemarkofasoldier.In the Cuban campaign the day the American forces landed at Siboneyamajor-generalofvolunteerstookuphishead-quartersinthehousefromwhichtheSpanishcommandanthadjustfled,andontheverandaofwhichCasparWhitneyandmyselfhadfoundtwohammocksandmadeourselvesathome.TheSpaniardwhohadbeenlefttoguardthehousecourteouslyofferedthemajor-generalhischoiceofthreebed-rooms.Theyallwereonthefirstfloorandopenedupontheveranda,andtothegeneral’sstaffatentcouldhavebeennoeasierofaccess.Obviously,itwasthedutyofthegeneraltokeep himselfingoodphysicalcondition,toobtainasmuchsleepaspossible,andtoresthisgreatbrainandhislimbscrampedwithtendaysonshipboard.Butinatoneofsternreproofhesaid,“No;Iamcampaigningnow,andIhavegivenupallluxuries.”Andwiththathestretchedaponchoonthehardboardsoftheveranda,where,whilejustafewfeetfromhimthethreebedsandwhitemosquitonetsgleamedinvitingly,hetossedandturned.Besidesbeingasillyspectacle,thesightofanoldgentlemanlyingwideawakeonhisshoulder-bladeswasdisturbing,andasthehoursdraggedonwerepeatedlyofferedhimourhammocks.Buthefretfullypersistedinhisdeterminationtobe

uncomfortable.Andhewas.Thefeelingsofhisunhappystaff,severalofwhomwereofficersoftheregulararmy,whohadtofollowtheexampleoftheirchief,weretowardmorninghardlyloyal.Later,attheverymomentthearmymoveduptothebattleofSanJuanthissamemajor-generalwasrelievedofhiscommandonaccountofillness.Hadhesensiblytakencareofhimself,whenthemomentcamewhenhewasneeded,hewouldhavebeenabletobetterservehisbrigadeandhiscountry.Incontrasttothisposeistheconductoftheveteranhunter,oroldsoldier.Whenhegetsintocamphisfirstthought,afterhehascaredforhishorse,isforhisowncomfort.Hedoesnotwolfdownacoldsupperandthenspreadhisblanketwhereverhehappenstobestanding.Heknowsthat,especiallyatnight,itisunfairtoaskhisstomachtodigestcoldrations.Heknowsthatthewarmthofhisbodyisneededtohelphimtosleepsoundly,nottofightchunksofcannedmeat.So,nomatterhowsleepyhemaybe,hetakesthetimetobuildafireandboilacupofteaorcoffee.Itswarmthaidsdigestionandsaveshisstomachfromworkingovertime.Norwillheactonthetheorythatheis“sotiredhecansleepanywhere.”Forafewhoursthemanwhodoesthatmaysleepthesleepofexhaustion.Butbeforedaybreakshewillfeelunderhimtherootsandstones,andwhenheawakesheisstiff,soreandunrefreshed.Tenminutesspentindiggingholesforhipsandshoulder-blades,incollectinggrassandbranchestospreadbeneathhisblanket,andleavestostuffinhisbootsforapillow,willgivehimawholenightofcomfortandstarthimwellandfitonthenextday’stramp.Ifyouhavewatchedanoldsergeant,oneoftheIndianfighters,ofwhichtherearenowtoofewleftinthearmy,whenhegoesintocamp,youwillseehimbuildabunkandpossiblyashelterofboughsjustasthoughfortherestofhislifeheintendedtodwellinthatparticularspot.DownintheGarciacampaignalongtheRioGrandeIsaidtooneofthem:“Whydoyougotoallthattrouble?Webreakcampatdaybreak.”Hesaid:“Dowe?Well,maybeyouknowthat,andmaybethecaptainknowsthat,butIdon’tknowit.AndsolongasIdon’tknowit,IamgoingtobejustassnugasthoughIwashaltedhereforamonth.”Incamping,thatwasoneofmyfirstandbestlessonstomakeyoursurroundingshealthyandcomfortable.Thetemptationalwaysistosay,“Oh,itisforonlyonenight,andIamtootired.”Thenextdayyousaythesamething,“We’llmoveto-morrow.What’stheuse?”Butthefishingorshootingaroundthecampprovesgood,oritcomesontostorm,andformaybeaweekyoudonotmove,andforaweekyousufferdiscomforts.Anhourofworkputinatthebeginningwouldhaveturneditintoaweekofease.Whenthereistransportofevenonepack-horse,oneofthebesthelpstowardmakingcampquicklyisacombinationofpanniersandbedusedformanyyearsbyE.F.Knight,theTimeswarcorrespondent,wholostanarmatGrasPan.Itconsistsoftwoleathertrunks,whichbydaycarryyourbelongings

slungoneithersideofthepack-animal,andbynightactasuprightsforyourbed.Thebedismadeofcanvasstretchedontwopoleswhichrestonthetwotrunks.FortravellinginupperIndiathisarrangementisusedalmostuniversally.Mr.KnightobtainedhisduringtheChitralcampaign,andsincethenhasuseditineverywar.HehaditwithKuroki’sarmyduringthislastcampaigninManchuria.Amorecompactformofvaliseandbedcombinedisthe“carry-all,”oranyofthemanymakesofsleeping-bags,whichduringthedaycarrythekitandatnightwhenspreaduponthegroundserveforabed.TheoneoncemostusedbyEnglishmenwasLordWolseley’s“valiseandsleeping-bag.”Itwascomplicatedbyanumberofstrings,andrequiredasmuchlacingasadozenpairsofboots.Ithasbeengreatlyimprovedbyanewsleeping-bagwithstraps,andflapsthattuckinattheends.Buttheobviousdisadvantageofallsleeping-bagsisthatinrainandmudyouarevirtuallylyingonthehardground,atthemercyoftarantulaandfever.Thecarry-allis,nevertheless,tomymind,themostnearlyperfectwayinwhichtopackakit.Ihavetriedthetrunk,valise,andsleeping-bag,andvastlypreferittothemall.Mycarry-alldiffersonlyfromthesleeping-baginthat,insteadofliningitsothatitmaybeusedasabed,Icarryinitspocketafoldingcot.Byomittingtheextraliningforthebed,Isavealmosttheweightofthecot.ThefoldingcotIpackistheGoldMedalBed,madeinthiscountry,butwhichyoucanpurchasealmostanywhere.IoncecarriedonefromChicagotoCapeTowntofindonarrivingIcouldbuythebedthereatexactlythesamepriceIhadpaidforitinAmerica.IalsofoundtheminTokio, whereimitations of them were being made by the ingenious and disingenuousJapanese. They are light in weight, strong, and comfortable, and areundoubtedly the best camp-bedmade.When at your elevation of six inchesabove the ground you look down from one of them upon a comrade in asleeping-bagwithrivuletsofrainandatideofmuddywaterrisingabovehim,yoursatisfaction,asyoufallasleep,isworththeweightofthebedingold.Mycarry-allisofcanvaswithabackofwaterproof.Itismadeupofthreestripssixandahalffeetlong.Thetwoouterstripsareeachtwofeetthreeincheswide,themiddlestripfourfeet.Atoneendofthemiddlestripisadeeppocketofheavycanvaswithaflapthatcanbefastenedbytwostraps.Whenthekithasbeenpackedinthispocket,thetwosidestripsarefoldedoveritandthemiddlestripandthewholeisrolledupandbuckledbytwoheavystrapsonthewaterproofside.Itisimpossibleforanyarticletofalloutorfortheraintosoakin.Ihaveasmallercarry-allmadeonthesameplan,buton a tiny scale, inwhich to carry small articles anda changeof clothing. Itgoes into thepocket after thebed, chair, and theheavier articles arepacked

away. When the bag is rolled up they are on the outside of and form aprotectiontothearticlesoflighterweight.Theonlyobjectiontothecarry-allisthatitisanawkwardbundletopack.Itisdifficulttobalanceitonthebackofananimal,butwhenyouaretakingatentwithyouorcarryingyourprovisions,itcanbeslungononesideofthepacksaddletooffsettheirweightontheother.I use the carry-allwhen I am travelling “heavy.”By that Imeanwhen it ispossibletoobtainpack-animalorcart.Whentravellinglightandbivouackingby night without a pack-horse, bed, or tent, I use the saddle-bags, alreadydescribed.Thesecanbeslungover thebackof thehorseyouride,or ifyouwalk,carriedoveryourshoulder.IcarriedtheminthislatterwayinGreece,intheTransvaal,andCubaduringtherebellion,andlaterwithourownarmy.The listofarticles I findmostusefulwhen travellingwhere it ispossible toobtaintransport,or,aswemaycallit,travellingheavy,arethefollowing:Atent,sevenbytenfeet,withfly, jointedpoles, tent-pins,aheavymallet.Irecommendatentopenatbothendswithawindowcutinoneend.Thewindow,whenthatendislacedandtheotheropen,furnishesadraughtofair.Thewindowshouldbecoveredwithaflapwhich,incaseofrain,canbetieddownoveritwithtapes.Agreatconvenienceinatentisapocketsewninsideofeachwall,forboots,books,andsuchsmallarticles.Thepocketshouldnotbefilledwithanythingsoheavyastocausethewallstosag.Anotherconveniencewithatentisaleatherstrapstretchedfrompoletopole,uponwhichtohangclothes,andanotherisastraptobebuckledaroundthefronttent-pole,andwhichisstuddedwithprojectinghooksforyourlantern,water-bottle,andfield-glasses.Thislattercanbebough ready-made at anymilitaryoutfitter’s.Manymenobject to thewooden tent-pinonaccountof its tendency tosplit,andcarrypinsmadeofiron.Withthese,aninchbelowtheheadofthepinisaprojectingbarbwhichholdsthetentrope.Whenthepinisbeingdrivenin,thebarbisoutofreachofthemallet.Anyblacksmithcanbeatoutsuchpins,andifyoucanafford theextraweight, theyarebetter than thoseofash.Also, ifyoucanaffordtheweight,itiswelltocarryastripofwater-prooforoilclothforthefloorofthetenttokeepoutdampness.Allthesethingsappertainingtothe tent shouldbe tolledup in it, and the tent itselfcarried ina light-weightreceptacle,witharunningnooselikeasailor’skit-bag.The carry-all has already been described.Of its contents, I consider first inimportancethefoldingbed.AndsecondinimportanceIwouldplaceafoldingchair.Manymenscoffata

chairasacumbersomeluxury.Butafteraharddayonfootorinthesaddle,whenyousitonthegroundwithyourbacktoarockandyourhandslockedacrossyourkneestokeepyourselffromsliding,oronaboxwithnorestforyourspinalcolumn,youbegintothinkachairisnotaluxury,butanecessity.DuringtheCubancampaign,foratimeIwasamemberofGeneralSumner’smess.Thegeneralownedafoldingchair,andwheneverhisbackwasturnedeveryonewouldmakearushtogetintoit.Onetimewewerediscussingwhat,inthelightofourexperienceofthatcampaign,wewouldtakewithusonournext,andallagreed,ColonelHowze,CaptainAndrews,andMajorHarmon,thatifonecouldonlytakeonearticleitwouldbeachair.IcarriedoneinManchuria,butitwasofnousetome,astheothercorrespondentsoccupiedit,relievingeachotherlikesentriesonguardduty.Ihadtopinasignonit,reading,“Don’tsitonme,”butnooneeversawthesign.Once,inordertorestinmyownchair,IweaklyestablishedaprecedentbygivingGeorgeLynchacigartoallowmetositdown(onthatmarchtherewasamesscontractorwhosuppliedusevenwithcigars,andoccasionallywithfood),andafterthat,wheneveramanwantedtosmoke,hewouldcommandeermychair,andunlessbribedrefusetobudge.Thisseemstoarguethepopularityofthecontractor’scigarsratherthanthatofthechair,but,nevertheless,Isubmitthatonacampaignthearticlesecondinimportanceforrest,comfort,andcontentisachair.ThebestIknowisoneinventedbyMajorElliottoftheBritisharmy.IhaveanElliottchairthatIhaveusedfouryears,notonlywhencampingout,butinmywriting-roomathome.Itisanarm-chair,andisascomfortableasanymade.Theobjectionstoitareitsweight, thatitpacksbulkily,andtakesdownintotoomanypieces.Evenwiththesedisadvantagesitisthebestchair.ItcanbepurchasedattheArmyandNavyandAnglo-IndianstoresinLondon.Achairoflighterweightandone-fourththebulkistheWillisdenchair,ofgreencanvasandthinironsupports.Itbreaksinonlytwopieces,andisverycomfortable.Sir Harry Johnson, in his advice to explorers, makes a great point of theirpackingachair.Butherecommendsoneknownasthe“Wellington,”whichisacane-bottomedaffair,heavyandcumbersome.Dr.Harford,theinstructorinoutfit for the Royal Geographical Society, recommends a steamer-chair,becauseitcanbeusedonshipboardand“canbeeasilycarriedafterward.”Iftherebeanything lesseasy tocarry thanadeck-chair Ihavenotmet it.Onemight as soon think of packing a folding step-ladder. But if he has thetransport,themanwhopacksanyreasonablylightfoldingchairwillnotregretit.Asarule,acookingkitisbuiltlikeeveryothercookingkitinthattheutensilsforcookingarecarriedinthesamepotthatisusedforboilingthewater,andthetopofthepotturnsitselfintoafrying-pan.ForeightyearsIalwayshave

usedthesamekindofcookingkit,soIcannotspeakofotherswithknowledge;butIhavealwayslookedwithenviouseyesatthePrestoncookingkitandwater-bottle.WhyithasnotalreadybeenadoptedbyeveryarmyIdonotunderstand,forinnoarmyhaveIseenakitascompactoraslight,oronethatcombinesasmanyusefularticlesandtakesupaslittleroom.ItistheinventionofCaptainGuyH.Preston,ThirteenthCavalry,andcanbepurchasedatanymilitaryoutfitter’s.ThecookingkitIcarryis,orwas,inuseintheGermanarmy.Itismadeofaluminum,weighsaboutasmuchasacigarette-case,andtakesupaslittleroomaswouldahighhat.Itisafrying-panandcoffee-potcombined.FromtheGermansithasbeenborrowedbytheJapanese,andonesmallerthanmine,butofthesamepattern,ispartoftheequipmentofeachJapanesesoldier.Onaday’smarchtherearethreethingsamanmustcarry:hiswater-bottle,hisfood,which,withthesoldier,isgenerallycarriedinahaversack,andhiscookingkit.Prestonhassucceededmostingeniouslyincombiningthewater-bottleandthecookingkit,andIbelievebycuttinghiswater-bottleinhalf,hecanmakeroominhiscoffee-potforthefood.Ifhewilldothis,hewillsolvetheproblemofcarryingwater,food,andtheutensilsforcookingthefoodandforboilingthewaterinonereceptacle,whichcanbecarriedfromtheshoulderbyasinglestrap.ThealterationIhavemadeformyownuseinCaptainPreston’swater-bottleenablesmetocarryinthecoffee-potoneday’srationsofbacon,coffee,andbiscuit.ThecomponentpartsofthePrestoncookingkitGermanArmycookingkitafteruseinfivecampaigns.AllofthesearticlespackinsidethekettleInTokio,beforeleavingforManchuria,GeneralFukushimaaskedmetobringmyentireoutfittotheofficeoftheGeneralStaff.Ispreaditoutonthefloor,andwithunerringaccuracyheselectedfromitthethreearticlesofgreatestvalue.TheyweretheGoldMedalcot,theElliottchair,andPreston’swater-bottle.Heaskedifhecouldborrowthese,and,understandingthathewantedtocopythemforhisownuse,andsupposingthatifheusedthem,hewould,ofcourse,makesomerestitutiontotheofficerswhohadinventedthem,Ifoolishlyloanedthemtohim.Later,heissuedtheminnumberstotheGeneralStaff.AsIfelt,inamanner,responsible,IwrotetotheSecretaryofWar,sayingIwassuretheJapanesearmydidnotwishtobenefitbytheseinventionswithoutmakingsomeacknowledgmentorreturntotheinventors.ButtheJapaneseWarOfficecouldnotseethepointItriedtomake,andtheGeneralStaffwrotealetterinreplyaskingwhyIhadnotdirectedmycommunicationtoGeneralFukushima,asitwasnottheSecretaryofWar,buthe,whohadtakenthearticles.Thefactthattheywerebeingissuedwithout

anyreturnbeingmade,didnotinterestthem.Theypassedcheerfullyoverthefactthatthearticleshadbeenstolen,andwereindignant,notbecauseIhadaccusedaJapanesegeneralofpilfering,butbecauseIhadaccusedthewronggeneral.TheletterwassoinsolentthatIwenttotheGeneralStaffOfficeandexplainedthattheofficerwhowroteit,mustwithdrawit,andapologizeforit.Bothofwhichthingshedid.Incasethegentlemen whose inventions were“borrowed”might, if theywished, takefurthersteps in thematter, I sent thedocumentsinthecase,withtheexceptionoftheletterwhichwaswithdrawn,tothechiefoftheGeneralStaffintheUnitedStatesandinEngland.In importance after the bed, cooking kit, and chair, I would place thesearticles:Twocollapsiblewater-bucketsofrubberorcanvas.Twocollapsiblebrasslanterns,withextraisinglasssides.Twoboxesofsick-roomcandles.Onedozenboxesofsafetymatches.Oneaxe.ThebestIhaveseenistheMarbleSafetyAxe,madeatGladstone,Mich.Youcancarryitinyourhip-pocket,andyoucancutdownatreewithit.Onemedicinecasecontainingquinine,calomel,andSunCholeraMixture intablets.Toilet-caseforrazors,tooth-powder,brushes,andpaper.Foldingbath-tubofrubberinrubbercase.Thesearemanufacturedtofoldintoaspacelittlelargerthanacigar-box.Twotowelsold,andsoft.Threecakesofsoap.OneJaegerblanket.Onemosquitohead-bag.Oneextrapairofshoes,oldandcomfortable.Oneextrapairofriding-breeches.Oneextrapairofgaiters.Theformerregulationarmygaiterofcanvas,laced,rollsupinasmallcompassandweighsbutlittle.

Oneflannelshirt.Grayleastshowsthedust.Twopairsofdrawers.Forriding,thebestarethoseofsilk.Twoundershirts,balbrigganorwoollen.Threepairsofwoollensocks.Twolinenhandkerchiefs,largeenough,ifneeded,totiearoundthethroatandprotectthebackoftheneck.Onepairofpajamas,woollen,notlinen.Onehousewife.Twobriarwoodpipes.Sixbagsofsmokingtobacco;DurhamorSealofNorthCarolinapackeasily.Onepadofwritingpaper.Onefountainpen,self-filling.Onebottleofink,withscrewtop,heldtightbyaspring.Onedozenlinenenvelopes.Stamps,wrappedinoil-silkwithmucilagesidenexttothesilk.Onesticksealing-wax.Intropicalcountriesmucilageontheflapofenvelopesstickstoeverythingexcepttheenvelope.Onedozenelasticbandsofthelargestsize.Inpackingtheyhelp to compressarticles like clothing into the smallest possible compass and in many otherwayswillbefoundveryuseful.Onepackofplaying-cards.Books.Onerevolverandsixcartridges.Thereasonformostofthesearticlesisobvious.Someofthemmayneedawordofrecommendation.Iplacethewater-bucketsfirstinthelistforthereasonthatIhavefoundthemoneofmymostvaluableassets.Withone,assoonasyouhalt,insteadofwaitingforyourturnatthewellorwater-hole,youcancarrywatertoyourhorse,andoneofthemoncefilledandsetinthe

shelterofthetent,latersavesyoumanysteps.Italsocanbeusedasanose-bag,andtocarryfodder.Irecommendthebrassfoldinglantern,becausethoseIhavetriedoftinoraluminumhaveinvariablybroken.Alanternisanabsolutenecessity.Whenbeforedaylightyoubreakcamp,orhurryoutinawindstormtostrugglewithflyingtent-pegs,orwhenatnightyouwishtoreadorplaycards,alanternwithastoutframeandsteadylightisindispensable.Theoriginalcostofthesick-roomcandlesismorethanthatofordinarycandles,buttheyburnlonger,arebrighter,andtakeupmuchlessroom.Toprotectthemandthematchesfromdampness,orthesun,itiswelltocarrytheminarubbersponge-bag.Anyonewhohasforgottentopackatowelwillnotneedtobeadvisedtotaketwo.AnoldsergeantofTroopG,ThirdCavalry,oncetoldmethatifhehadtothrowawayeverythinghecarriedinhisrollbutonearticle,hewouldsavehistowel.Andhewasnotaparticularlyfastidioussergeanteither,buthepreferredadamptowelinhisrolltodampclothesonhisback.Everymanknowsthedrearyhaltsincampwhentherainpoursoutside,ortheregimentisheldinreserve.Fortimesliketheseapackofcardsorabookisworthcarrying,evenifitweighsasmuchastheplatesfromwhichitwasprinted.Atpresentitiseasytoobtainallofthemodernclassicsinvolumessmallenoughtogointothecoat-pocket.InJapan,beforestartingforChina,wedividedupamongthecorrespondentsThomasNelson&Sons’andDoubleday,Page&Co.’spocketeditionsofDickens,Thackeray,andLever,andasmostofourtimeinManchuriawasspentlockedupincompounds,theyprovedagreatblessing.InthelistIhaveincludedarevolver,followingouttheoldsayingthat“Youmaynotneeditforalongtime,butwhenyoudoneedit,youwantitdamnedquick.”Excepttoimpressguidesandmule-drivers,itisnotanessentialarticle.InsixcampaignsIhavecarriedone,andneverusedit,norneededitbutonce,andthenwhileIwasdodgingbehindtheforemastitlayundertonsofluggageinthehold.ThenumberofcartridgesIhavelimitedtosix,onthetheorythatifinsixshotsyouhaven’thittheotherfellow,hewillhavehityou,andyouwillnotrequireanothersix.This,Ithink,completesthelistofarticlesthatondifferentexpeditionsIeitherhavefoundofuse,orhaveseenrendergoodservicetosomeoneelse.Butthereallywisemanwillpacknoneofthethingsenumeratedinthisarticle.Forthelargerhiskit,thelessbenefithewillhaveofit.Itwillallbetakenfromhim.Andaccordinglymyfinaladviceistogoforthempty-handed,nakedandunashamed,andborrowfromyourfriends.Ihavenevertriedthatmethodofcollectinganoutfit,butIhaveseenneveritfail,andofalltravellersthemanwhoborrowsisthewisest.

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