on the banks of otter creek - middlebury...

1
e banks of Otter Creek remained unsettled until the late 1760. Prior to the European exploration and settlement, Otter Creek was a major transportation route for the Native Americans that inhabited the region, known as the “Indian Road” and later as “e Settler’s Road,” as the only route into the valley. e French were the first to discover the Creek after navigating through Lake Champlain, but did not ven- ture up beyond Vergennes falls (Petersen 1991). At first only a few brave pioneers ventured into the wilder- ness along Otter Creek, yet the number dramatically increased between 1765 and 1775, creating an in-migration of settlers looking to claim land, farm, or build an industry, following town charters in 1761. Settlers attempted to use Otter Creek to the best of the ability, improving their quality of life (Eccleston 1995). Early surveyors were instructed to fully ob- serve the course of the river, its depth, where the falls were, and the nature of the soils on either side of the creek as well as the forest types along the bank (Petersen 1991). e type of settler chose their place on the bank, some choosing the falls over the fertile, flat landscapes of the middle section. ose that did not use the river for transportation used it as a guide, bushwhacking a trail along the banks. It became a major transportation corridor during the 18th century. By the end of 1775, every town along Otter Creek had settlers (Peterson 1991). Early settlement occurred from settlers coming in from Lake Champlain, finding the falls that produced waterpower. is section was navigable the first eight miles to Vergennes and then hiking up to Middlebury. Next was the southern end closer to Massachusetts and Connecticut where most of the settlers were from. e road network also ended right at Sutherland Falls in Proctor which was part of Pittsford until the 1880s. Once towns were established and the Crown Point Military Road was completed in 1760, the navigable waters of the center section of Otter Creek opened up the ample farm land around Cornwall. e mountain town of Mount Table and Ferrisburg were settled later due to their locations and minerals found. Historical Overview Geologic Overview Vermont was buried under glaciers about 10,000 years ago. When the ice retracted, it left lakes, rivers, and valleys etched into the bedrock, forming the soils and topography which dictate the hydrology of the creek (Meeks 1986). Much of the Otter Creek and Champlain Valley that we know today was underwater, resulting in clay rich soils. Over thousands of years, along the steeper parts of the creek, the water has carved out gorges in the limestone, creating a varied topogra- phy, and a dynamic stream flow. As tributaries feed water into the main artery of the creek, the water volume increases, which also depends on precipitation and spring-fed tributar- ies. e velocity of the river varies at different parts along the creek, increasing in the narrower channels, and becoming almost placid along the wide flat sections. e landscape was originally covered in a dense virgin forest, which was cleared rapidly following settlement. Pine, cedar, tamarack, soft maple, black ash and elm, interspersed with other deciduous trees grew along the banks (Smith 1886). e rocks along the creek are deposited in parallel ranges extending north and south (Smith 1886). Marble and limestone beds are the metamorphic rocks that are commonly found around the banks and on the falls. e soils vary in their construction and composition. e fertile alluvial lands along the Otter Creek valley are prime for agricultural. Prime Settlement Locations Even though the creek provided a throughway for travelers, the banks along the parts that were not navigable provided a clear path instead of trekking through unfamiliar wilderness (Sheldon Museum). In the winter, the ice created a surface, transforming the flowing river into an actual “road.” Settlers who wanted to have their own farms and sought the fertile soils of the lowlands lying between the lake and the Green Mountains. After clearing the forested landscape for ag- riculture, byproducts of commercial value could be produced and transported down the river (Sheldon Museum). e annual flooding of the banks of Otter Creek, taught settlers early on that building right along the banks of Otter Creek would not be the most strategic building locations unless one wanted to be flooded every spring. ose that lived within sight of the creek valued the lakes that formed from the winter snow melt. e falls in the northern and southern ends of the creek were prime locations for industry, offering waterpower to mills. is transformed many frontier settlements into established in- dustrial towns and commercial centers. What was a subsistence lifestyle gave way to a more “entrepreneurial mode of existence (Sheldon Museum).” Middlebury falls offered one of the best mill opportunities in the state (Smith 1886). e stone free flat valley which Otter Creek meanders through full of glacial clay was the preferred location for those wanting to sustain themselves on farming. Around Weybridge, Salisbury, and Waltham the soil is varied in character from the rich alluvian clay and was prime for farming, both grazing and cultivation. ose who wished to move to the industrial sector chose to on the hills around the falls such as Middlebury, Ver- gennes, and Brandon (Meeks 1986: Chapter 12). roughout history, Otter Creek has been a primary re- source for those that live along or near its banks. In the years that followed settlement and chartering of towns, competition over the creek as a resource became a highly contended issue, since farmers and mill owners had different interests in how the hydrology of the river should be altered. References Cited Brown, Elizabeth Crockett. 1991. Historical sketches of Vermont communities. Vermont: E.C. Brown. Chernicoff, S. and Whitney, D. 2007. Geology: an introduction to physical geology. Pearson Prentice Hall Meeks, Harold A. 1986. Vermont's land and resources. Shelburne, Vt: New England Press. Petersen, James. 1990. Otter Creek: e Indian Road. Salisbury: Dunmore House. Smith, H. P. 1886. History of Addison county Vermont, with illustrations and biographical sketches of some of its prominent men and pioneers. Syracuse, N.Y.: D. Mason & Co. Sheldon Museum Eductational Materials Website. Accessed on 1/28/2012: http://henrysheldonmuseum.org/land_to_lake/index.html Elevation Profile 0 50 100 150 200 250 0 12 24 36 48 60 72 84 96 108 Elevation (m) Distance (miles) Mount Taber Lake Champlain Otter Creek Falls Cornwall Swamp Sutherland Falls Vergennes Falls Figure 6: Elevation profile of Otter Creek from Lake Champlain traveling south- ward to the birth of the river up in the hills aroud Mouth Taber. Even though dams have been placed in the rapid part of the river, the profile does show the flat streach that was so attractive to settlers as well as the water power potential. Beldon Falls 0 5 10 Miles The flat, fertile lands of the interval and the long stretch of navigable water between Sutherland Falls at Proctor and the falls at Middlebury made this portion of the valley particularly attractive to settlers.- Peterson 1991: 35 N Swamp Agricultural lands Industrial lands 1766 1767 1768 1769 1770 1771 1772 1773 1774 1775 1776 1777 1778 1779 1780 1781 1782 1783 1784 Middlebury Vergennes ClarendonWaltham Pittsford Rutland Wallingford Sudbury Brandon Weybridge Mount Taber Ferrisburg Cornwall Time of Settlement Salisbury North End End Points South End Middle Secton Limestone, dolomite, carbonate-rich clastic sediments, marble, dolomitic marble, may include some calc-silicate rock. Calcareous clastic and metamorphosed clastic rocks containing approximately 15 to 45% carbonate minerals (includes calcareous slates). Slate, graywacke and conglomerate locally graphitic, sulphidic Pelitic schist, phyllite, gneiss, and granofels; may be interlayered and locally calcareous, locally graphitic, locally sulphidic. Quartzose metasandstone, quartzite, quartz granofels and quartzose gneiss. Ultramafics-- including serpentinites, dunites, peridotites and talc schist; carbonate present. Felsic igneous volcanic and plutonic rocks and their metamorphic equivalents; includes granit- oid plutonic rocks, fine-grained felsic rocks of volcanic and subvolcanic origin, feldspathic hypabyssal dikes and flows and quartz-poor plutonic rocks, including syenite, nepheline syenite, quartz syenite, monzonite Quartzose metasandstone, quartzite, quartz granofels and quartzose gneiss; calcareous. Figure 5: Map of the bedrock of the Otter Creek Watershed. e bedrock is dominated by carbonate-rich rocks, such as limestone and marble, with a few ribbons of quartizite. ese are mainly sedimentary. alluvium beach gravel bedrock exposure boulders in clay delta gravel delta sand esker fluvial gravel isolated kame kame moraine kame terrace lake gravel lake sand marine sand moraine outwash pebbly sand silt, silty clay, and clay surface water swamp, peat and/or muck terminal moraine till varved clay wave-washed till Figure 3: Map of the soils of Otter Creek Watershed. e soils along the banks of Otter Creek at the north end are boulders in clay, silt, clay, and fluvial gravel. Glacial till dominates the southern end. Vergennes Falls (Dams) (Dam) Beldon Falls and Gorge (dam) Rapids Middlebury Falls Great Cornwall Swamp L a k e C h a m p l a i n South End Middle Section North End Figure 2: Map of Otter Creek with prime settlement locations. e rocky hills of the Green Mountains at the birth of the creek has a weak veolcity and volume as well as steep terrain not condusive to settlement. e fertile lands of the middle section were great for farming, due to the meandering river and soil types. e falls and limestone gorges made travel a challenge, yet prime area for water powered industry. ose in favor of a farming lifestyple chose to live elsewhere. It moves slowing and silently northward through Wallingford and Clarendon, plummeting over the falls in Rutland and Proctor, meandering through the valley between the Taconic Mountains and the Green Mountains, through Pittsford, Brandon, Sudbury, Leicester, and Whiting, bordering the Great Cornwall Swamp between Salisbury and Cornwall, to plunge down the falls in Middlebury, through New haven and Weybridge, snaking through the fertile flats of Waltham and Addison, before tumbling down the last final fall at Vergennes. Sutherland Falls On the Banks of Otter Creek How hydrology dictated early settlement patterns Phebe Meyers 0 20 Miles Figure 1: is map shows the elevation of Vermont and the loca- tion of Otter Creek Watershed. O t t e r C r e e k 0 10 Miles Vergennes Middlebury Brandon Proctor Rutland Wallingford O t t e r C r e e k Weybridge Waltham Salisbury Pittsford Dorest Mount Taber Figure 4: Otter creek is Vermont’s longest river, flowing 100 miles north of Dorset Vermont into lake Champlain in Ferrisbury, as well as the drainage system for most of Addison County (Smith 1886, Petersen 1991). Ferrisburg ..The banks of the Otter River for about twenty leagues to the right and left are stocked with white oaks which extend indefinitely into the distance, so that anyone resort- ing to this part of the colony will find there resources for building ships, the more so as in the populated interior of the colony the oak woods are small. The climate, the quality of the soil, everything induces to push the settlement of that section; we have learned that harvesting was done on August 15; it was hardly begun in Montreal on September 1.- from a letter written on October 3, 1741 by Gilles Hocquart, Indentant of Canada from 1728-1748 (Petersen 1990: 34)

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Page 1: On the Banks of Otter Creek - Middlebury Collegecommunity.middlebury.edu/~wamidon/historical/2012/meyers.pdf · of years, along the steeper parts of the creek, the water has carved

�e banks of Otter Creek remained unsettled until the late 1760. Prior to the European exploration and settlement, Otter Creek was a major transportation route for the Native Americans that inhabited the region, known as the “Indian Road” and later as “�e Settler’s Road,” as the only route into the valley. �e French were the �rst to discover the Creek after navigating through Lake Champlain, but did not ven-ture up beyond Vergennes falls (Petersen 1991). At �rst only a few brave pioneers ventured into the wilder-ness along Otter Creek, yet the number dramatically increased between 1765 and 1775, creating an in-migration of settlers looking to claim land, farm, or build an industry, following town charters in 1761. Settlers attempted to use Otter Creek to the best of the ability, improving their quality of life (Eccleston 1995). Early surveyors were instructed to fully ob-serve the course of the river, its depth, where the falls were, and the nature of the soils on either side of the creek as well as the forest types along the bank (Petersen 1991). �e type of settler chose their place on the bank, some choosing the falls over the fertile, �at landscapes of the middle section. �ose that did not use the river for transportation used it as a guide, bushwhacking a trail along the banks. It became a major transportation corridor during the 18th century. By the end of 1775, every town along Otter Creek had settlers (Peterson 1991). Early settlement occurred from settlers coming in from Lake Champlain, �nding the falls that produced waterpower. �is section was navigable the �rst eight miles to Vergennes and then hiking up to Middlebury. Next was the southern end closer to Massachusetts and Connecticut where most of the settlers were from. �e road network also ended right at Sutherland Falls in Proctor which was part of Pittsford until the 1880s. Once towns were established and the Crown Point Military Road was completed in 1760, the navigable waters of the center section of Otter Creek opened up the ample farm land around Cornwall. �e mountain town of Mount Table and Ferrisburg were settled later due to their locations and minerals found.

Historical Overview

Geologic Overview Vermont was buried under glaciers about 10,000 years ago. When the ice retracted, it left lakes, rivers, and valleys etched into the bedrock, forming the soils and topography which dictate the hydrology of the creek (Meeks 1986). Much of the Otter Creek and Champlain Valley that we know today was underwater, resulting in clay rich soils. Over thousands of years, along the steeper parts of the creek, the water has carved out gorges in the limestone, creating a varied topogra-phy, and a dynamic stream �ow. As tributaries feed water into the main artery of the creek, the water volume increases, which also depends on precipitation and spring-fed tributar-ies. �e velocity of the river varies at di�erent parts along the creek, increasing in the narrower channels, and becoming almost placid along the wide �at sections. �e landscape was originally covered in a dense virgin forest, which was cleared rapidly following settlement. Pine, cedar, tamarack, soft maple, black ash and elm, interspersed with other deciduous trees grew along the banks (Smith 1886). �e rocks along the creek are deposited in parallel ranges extending north and south (Smith 1886). Marble and limestone beds are the metamorphic rocks that are commonly found around the banks and on the falls. �e soils vary in their construction and composition. �e fertile alluvial lands along the Otter Creek valley are prime for agricultural.

Prime Settlement Locations Even though the creek provided a throughway for travelers, the banks along the parts that were not navigable provided a clear path instead of trekking through unfamiliar wilderness (Sheldon Museum). In the winter, the ice created a surface, transforming the �owing river into an actual “road.” Settlers who wanted to have their own farms and sought the fertile soils of the lowlands lying between the lake and the Green Mountains. After clearing the forested landscape for ag-riculture, byproducts of commercial value could be produced and transported down the river (Sheldon Museum). �e annual �ooding of the banks of Otter Creek, taught settlers early on that building right along the banks of Otter Creek would not be the most strategic building locations unless one wanted to be �ooded every spring. �ose that lived within sight of the creek valued the lakes that formed from the winter snow melt. �e falls in the northern and southern ends of the creek were prime locations for industry, o�ering waterpower to mills. �is transformed many frontier settlements into established in-dustrial towns and commercial centers. What was a subsistence lifestyle gave way to a more “entrepreneurial mode of existence (Sheldon Museum).” Middlebury falls o�ered one of the best mill opportunities in the state (Smith 1886). �e stone free �at valley which Otter Creek meanders through full of glacial clay was the preferred location for those wanting to sustain themselves on farming. Around Weybridge, Salisbury, and Waltham the soil is varied in character from the rich alluvian clay and was prime for farming, both grazing and cultivation. �ose who wished to move to the industrial sector chose to on the hills around the falls such as Middlebury, Ver-gennes, and Brandon (Meeks 1986: Chapter 12). �roughout history, Otter Creek has been a primary re-source for those that live along or near its banks. In the years that followed settlement and chartering of towns, competition over the creek as a resource became a highly contended issue, since farmers and mill owners had di�erent interests in how the hydrology of the river should be altered.

References CitedBrown, Elizabeth Crockett. 1991. Historical sketches of Vermont communities. Vermont: E.C. Brown. Chernico�, S. and Whitney, D. 2007. Geology: an introduction to physical geology. Pearson Prentice Hall Meeks, Harold A. 1986. Vermont's land and resources. Shelburne, Vt: New England Press. Petersen, James. 1990. Otter Creek: �e Indian Road. Salisbury: Dunmore House.Smith, H. P. 1886. History of Addison county Vermont, with illustrations and biographical sketches of some of its prominent men and pioneers. Syracuse, N.Y.: D. Mason & Co. Sheldon Museum Eductational Materials Website. Accessed on 1/28/2012: http://henrysheldonmuseum.org/land_to_lake/index.html

Elevation Pro�le

0

50

100

150

200

250

0 12 24 36 48 60 72 84 96 108

Ele

vatio

n (m

)

Distance (miles)

Mount Taber

Lake Champlain

Otter Creek FallsCornwall Swamp

Sutherland Falls

Vergennes Falls

Figure 6: Elevation pro�le of Otter Creek from Lake Champlain traveling south-ward to the birth of the river up in the hills aroud Mouth Taber. Even though dams have been placed in the rapid part of the river, the pro�le does show the �at streach that was so attractive to settlers as well as the water power potential.

Beldon Falls

0 5 10

Miles

“The �at, fertile lands of the interval and the long stretch of navigable water between Sutherland Falls at Proctor and the falls at

Middlebury made this portion of the valley particularly attractive to settlers.” - Peterson 1991: 35

N

SwampAgricultural landsIndustrial lands

1766 1767 1768 1769 1770 1771 1772 1773 1774 1775 1776 1777 1778 1779 1780 1781 1782 1783 1784

MiddleburyVergennes

ClarendonWalthamPittsford Rutland

Wallingford SudburyBrandon

Weybridge

Mount Taber FerrisburgCornwall

Time of Settlement

Salisbury

North End End PointsSouth End Middle Secton

Limestone, dolomite, carbonate-rich clastic sediments, marble, dolomitic marble, may include some calc-silicate rock.

Calcareous clastic and metamorphosed clastic rocks containing approximately 15 to 45% carbonate minerals (includes calcareous slates).

Slate, graywacke and conglomerate locally graphitic, sulphidic

Pelitic schist, phyllite, gneiss, and granofels; may be interlayered and locally calcareous, locally graphitic, locally sulphidic.

Quartzose metasandstone, quartzite, quartz granofels and quartzose gneiss.

Ultrama�cs-- including serpentinites, dunites, peridotites and talc schist; carbonate present.

Felsic igneous volcanic and plutonic rocks and their metamorphic equivalents; includes granit-oid plutonic rocks, �ne-grained felsic rocks of volcanic and subvolcanic origin, feldspathic hypabyssal dikes and �ows and quartz-poor plutonic rocks, including syenite, nepheline syenite, quartz syenite, monzonite

Quartzose metasandstone, quartzite, quartz granofels and quartzose gneiss; calcareous.

Figure 5: Map of the bedrock of the Otter Creek Watershed. �e bedrock is dominated by carbonate-rich rocks, such as limestone and marble, with a few ribbons of quartizite. �ese are mainly sedimentary.

alluviumbeach gravelbedrock exposureboulders in claydelta graveldelta sandesker�uvial gravelisolated kamekame morainekame terracelake gravellake sandmarine sandmoraineoutwashpebbly sandsilt, silty clay, and claysurface waterswamp, peat and/or muckterminal morainetillvarved claywave-washed till

Figure 3: Map of the soils of Otter Creek Watershed. �e soils along the banks of Otter Creek at the north end are boulders in clay, silt, clay, and �uvial gravel. Glacial till dominates the southern end.

Vergennes Falls

(Dams)

(Dam)

Beldon Falls and Gorge (dam)Rapids

Middlebury Falls

Great Cornwall Swamp

Lak eChamp lai n

South End

Middle Sect ion

North End

Figure 2: Map of Otter Creek with prime settlement locations. �e rocky hills of the Green Mountains at the birth of the creek has a weak veolcity and volume as well as steep terrain not condusive to settlement. �e fertile lands of the middle section were great for farming, due to the meandering river and soil types. �e falls and limestone gorges made travel a challenge, yet prime area for water powered industry. �ose in favor of a farming lifestyple chose to live elsewhere. It moves slowing and silently northward through Wallingford and Clarendon, plummeting over the falls in Rutland and Proctor, meandering through the valley between the Taconic Mountains and the Green Mountains, through Pittsford, Brandon, Sudbury, Leicester, and Whiting, bordering the Great Cornwall Swamp between Salisbury and Cornwall, to plunge down the falls in Middlebury, through New haven and Weybridge, snaking through the fertile �ats of Waltham and Addison, before tumbling down the last �nal fall at Vergennes.

Sutherland Falls

On the Banks of Otter CreekHow hydrology dictated ear ly se t t lement pat terns

Phebe Meyers

0 20

Miles

Figure 1: �is map shows the elevation of Vermont and the loca-tion of Otter Creek Watershed.

Ot t e r

C

r e e k

0 10

Miles

Vergennes

Middlebury

Brandon

ProctorRutland

Wallingford

O

tt

er

Cr e

ek

Weybridge Waltham

Salisbury

Pittsford

Dorest Mount Taber

Figure 4: Otter creek is Vermont’s longest river, �owing 100 miles north of Dorset Vermont into lake Champlain in Ferrisbury, as well as the drainage system for most of Addison County (Smith 1886, Petersen 1991).

Ferrisburg

“..The banks of the Otter River for about twenty leagues to the right and left are stocked with white oaks which extend inde�nitely into the distance, so that anyone resort-ing to this part of the colony will �nd there resources for building ships, the more so as in the populated interior of the colony the oak woods are small. The climate, the quality of the soil, everything induces to push the settlement of that section; we have learned that

harvesting was done on August 15; it was hardly begun in Montreal on September 1.”- from a letter written on October 3, 1741 by Gilles Hocquart, Indentant of Canada from 1728-1748 (Petersen 1990: 34)