outdoor japan traveler - issue 43 - spring 2012
DESCRIPTION
Outdoor Japan Traveler is the magazine for people who love travel, the outdoors and adventure in Japan. Every season is a new adventure. Spring 2012.TRANSCRIPT
Spring Travel:A Blue Shade of Pink春旅行：ピンクの青い木陰
Oshima Trail Running大島で月を走る
Exploring Lush Kosrae青々としたコスラエを旅する
Japan Journals
+ Spring Activity Guide
Deep TurnsIn TOHOKu
A C T I O N ■ A D V E N T U R E ■ O U T D O O R S ■ T R A V E L
SPRING 2012ISSUE 43
www.oberoihotels.com
OUTDOOR JAPAN TRAVELERPublished Seasonally
PublisherOutdoor Japan Inc.
Editor-in-ChiefGardner Robinson
EditorWilliam Ross
Business Development DirectorLuke McDonald
Art DirectorYuki Masuko
Contributing EditorsWayne Graczyk, Eri Nishikawa, Takashi Osanai
Administration & DistributionRika Yamada
IllustrationEureka!
TranslationMakiko Brunetti, Kanae Kato, Kumiko Kurosaki, Junco Mitsui
Contact Information:Outdoor Japan Inc.J-HANK Chigasaki B / 4-10 Heiwa-cho,Chigasaki-shi, Kanagawa 253-0024〒253-0024 神奈川県茅ヶ崎市平和町4-10 J HANK 茅ヶ崎B号
Tel: (0467) 81-3212 Fax: (0467) 81-3213
Editorial: [email protected]: [email protected]: [email protected]: [email protected]
OJ Creative: [email protected]
©2012 OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION IS PROHIBITED. VIEWS EXPRESSED HEREIN ARE NOT NECESSARILY THOSE OF OUTDOOR JAPAN.
On the cover:Deep Turns in Tohoku
Photo by Paul Vanderheiden
Make deep turns. Ride your bike. Take a bath. Ride a wave. Hit the slopes. Climb something. Explore.
I N S I D E O J T R AV E L E R
FEATURES
10
18
26
36
48
50
6
25
34
44
45
46
Japan JournalsWith Nick Hyne
A Blue Shade of Pinkピンクの青い木陰
By Lee Dobson
Exploring Lush Kosrae青 と々したコスラエを旅する
Story & photos by Tim Rock
Oshima Trail Running大島で月を走る
By Pauline Kitamura
Deep TurnsBy Gardner Robinson
Inside OutBy Craig Yamashita
Spring has sprung!春の訪れ
High TideBy Mitsuharu Kume
Ossan Powerオッサンパワー
Japan AnglerBy Abdel Ibrahim
Good Eatin’食い倒れ旅行
Cycling JapanBy Takashi Niwa
Pedaling Across the Chubu Region:Toyoma Bay to Ise Bay中部縦断 富山湾から伊勢湾へ
The Local BrewBy Bryan Harrell
Brimmer Brewing ブリマー・ブルーイング
The Naked StrangerBy The Naked Stranger
Episode 9: A winter ode to l’eau chaude お湯のウィンターソング
4 From the Editor Contributors, Columnists & Cohorts
8 Race and Events Spotlights56 Spring Activity Guide Every Season a New Adventure
60 OJ Classifieds Lifestyle Directory
Smiling Japan With Jup Brown
www.facebook/japantraveler
www.twitter.com/outdoorjapan
www.youtube.com/outdoorjapan
3S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
W hen the cherry blossoms bloom in Tokyo it
feels like the entire city comes out of their
collective shells, breathing new life into the city.
Stroll through any park during peak weekends and
the energy is palpable; you can’t help but get excited
about spring and the start of the green season. Spring
creeps up through southern Japan and slowly makes
its way north, so if you missed your chance at hanami
here in the Kanto area you can chase the blossoms
north to beautiful countryside places like Hirosaki
Castle in Aomori (P. 18).
It’s now been a year since the events of March 11,
2011. There are positive signs for tourism in Japan,
the JNTO announced February inbound numbers
are up 12.9% from 2011. People are doing their
best to move forward and Outdoor Japan had the
opportunity to help produce a documentary focused
on the lives of people in Tohoku and their courage
in the face of such an unimaginable disaster. Our
program, “Deep Turns” airs on April 27 on NHK World
and JIBTV as part of the “FORWARD” documentary
series. The story, about a mountain, the healing and
destructive powers of nature and a foreign resident
who formed a deep connection with the mountain
and the people there, is featured in this issue (P. 36).
Jup Brown has lived off and on in Fukushima for
years and knows firsthand how the people in the
area have suffered following last year’s earthquake.
Many are stil l picking up the pieces of l ives
shattered by the aftermath. Although he describes
himself as, “just your average Kiwi,” there is nothing
ordinary about this guy. Jup is running the length
of Japan, averaging 50 kilometers a day, to raise
awareness and donations for people who still need
our support (P. 48).
And if you are still looking for Golden Week ideas,
this epic winter, documented in our Japan Journals
piece (P. 50), has provided some great spring skiing
possibilities. There is plenty of snow left and many
resorts are open through Golden Week. The big
melt is feeding rivers that will whet your appetite
for white water action or relaxing paddles in placid
lakes. If you are ready for some island fun, jump a
ferry and wake up in another world. Tokyo’s islands
offer everything from scuba diving, surfing and some
amazing trail running (P. 10). Now get out there and
enjoy the season!
東京の街を桜が彩るこの季節。まるで街全体が殻
を破って、新しい生命を祝っているかのようだ。
お花見シーズンの賑やかな公園を歩けば、エネルギー
に満ちた空気で満ちている。春の訪れに心が踊り、夏
が待ちきれなくなる。惜しくも関東のお花見を逃してし
まったなら、ゆっくりと北上していく桜前線を追って美し
い田舎を旅してみよう。弘前城を目指してみるのはいか
がだろう（P18）。
2011年3月11日、あの日から一年。日本の観光事情
は回復の兆しを見せている。JNTOは、海外からの観
光客が昨年と比べて12.9％増とのポジティブな発表をし
た。被災者の方々は日々前進しようと努力を続けられて
いる。アウトドア・ジャパンでは、未曾有の大震災を乗
り越えようと立ち向かう東北の人々の生活とその勇気を
伝えるべく、ドキュメンタリー制作を行った。ドキュメンタ
リー・シリーズ”FORWARD”の一環として、“Deep Turns”
が4月27日、ＮＨＫワールド及びJIBTVで放送される。 今
号では、私たちを守り、時に牙をむく山や大自然のパ
ワーについて、そして土地の山々や人 と々の間に強い
絆を築いたある外国人の話をお伝えしたい（P36）。
長年福島に住んできたJup Brownは、地震の直後か
ら、瓦礫の中を捜索する人 と々共に震災の苦しみを目
の当たりにしてきた。 “どこにでもいるただのニュージー
ランド人”自分についてそう話すJupは、その言葉とは程
遠い人物だ。日本縦断チャリティーランニングを行い、
義援金を募りながら復興支援のために1日50km以上を
走り続けている（P48）。
ゴールデンウィークの予定がまだ決まっていないな
ら、Japan Journalsで最高の冬について（P50）読め
ば、春スキーに出かけたくなるかも。ゴールデンウィーク
までオープンしているリゾートも沢山あるし、場所によっ
ては雪もまだたっぷり残っている。雪解け水が山を下
り、迫力満点のラフティングや湖でのゆったりカヤックに
も最高となるはずだ。島へと向かうフェリーに乗り込ん
で別世界で朝を迎えるのも良い。東京の島々にも、ス
キューバにサーフィン、トレイル・ランニングと遊びが満
載（P10）。さあ、外に出て新しい季節を楽しもう！
FROM THE EDITOR
Gardner Robinson, Editor-in-Chief
Contributors,Columnists and Cohorts
Abdel Ibrahim アブデル・イブラヒム
Tim Rockティム・ロック
Bryan Harrellブライアン・ハレル
Craig Yamashitaクレイグ・山下
Takashi Niwa丹羽 隆志
Bill Rossビル・ロス
The Naked Strangerハダカの異国人
Mitsuharu Kume久米 満晴
Lee Dobsonリー・ドブソン
Pauline Kitamuraポーリーン 北村
4 S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
Spring has sprung!春の訪れ
By Craig Yamashita Illustration by Eureka! Translation by Aya Aoki
ザ・サーファーズ・ジャーナルのバックナンバーを今すぐGETしよう！
各巻 ¥1,995（税込） 購入は www.surfersjournal.jp のバックナンバーから
For centuries, the changing of the seasons have been celebrated heartily in Japan, and none more so than the arrival of spring. Even today, spring ushers in the new school year and the fiscal year. However, this spring, keep a lookout for these lesser known harbingers of spring. Kanpai!
In April, the ubiquitous salaryman’s dark winter coat transforms into beige hued plumage. The reasons for this change is unknown, but one theory holds that it evolved to help the salaryman better blend in with the drab environment of the business districts the neutral-colored throngs inhabit, serving as camoflauge to prevent being spotted by superiors.
After spending the long, dark winter months playing games on the internet and subsisting on delivery bento, the otaku begins to emerge from their caves to forage for new Spring items in fast food restaurants. The best place for otaku viewing is Akihabara, as the streets are awash with otaku searching for food and potential mates.
Hayfever Matsuri - Traditional lore tells of the pollen allergic oni , or demon, terrorizing children by sneezing all over them. Local children pelt the oni with tissues to protect themselves from hay fever. Festive nose-shaped cakes dusted with sugar "pollen", and rice cakes that symbolize red, watery eyeballs are some of the treats you can enjoy.
古来より日本では節分を丁重に祝い、特に春の訪れを重視してきた。現代でも学校や企業の新年度は春である。春の兆候は複数あるが、知られざる春の足音にも耳を傾けてみよう。
四月になると、普通族サラリーマン科は、暗色の冬毛からベージュなどの夏毛に生え変わる。変色の理由は不明だが、一説によると彼らの生息区域である色味の少ないビジネス街に適応し、目立たぬように群衆と同一化する為のカモフラージュらしい。
長く暗い冬季をネトゲと宅配弁当で凌いだオタク族が、巣穴から出てバーガー店で春の新作を探し出す。食糧のみならず、二次元ではない将来のヨメを探すオタク族が集まるアキバは、絶好の観測ポイントである。
花粉祭 :クシャミで子どもを脅かす花粉症の鬼や悪魔の伝承がある地域では、鬼にティッシュを投げつけて厄払いをする。祭では、砂糖で出来た “花粉” をまぶした鼻型のケーキや、赤い涙目を模した餅などが振舞われる。
6 S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
創刊号 1.1○ 変革の申し子 トニー・アルバ○ マーティン・ポッターの半生とその時代○ スティーブ・リスのフィッシュ物語 他
第2号 1.2○ “天才”ジム・フィリップスの素顔○ ジュリアン・ウィルソンとその家族○ 60年代サーフ・ファンのアナログ・ストーリー 他
第3号 1.3○ 名匠：タイラー・ハジキアン○ 南アフリカのゴッドファーザー○ ニュージャージー・サーフの手引き 他
第4号 1.4○ ピーター・トロイの失われた旅行記○ 思考を変えろ — リー・クロウの半生○ ポール・ウィツィグの3作品 他
残部僅少
7S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
SPRING 2012
ISSUE 43
Extremo Adventure Race Series 2012www.a-extremo.com/extreme/eventeng.html
This well-known one-day race series is perfect for beginners as well as for those looking for a good dose of excitement in Japan’s backcountry. Disciplines include trekking, mountain biking, rafting, canoeing, kayaking and orienteering as well as team challenges. One great thing about these races is the entry deadline is just ten days before the race – unheard of in Japan!
Apr. 15: Race #1: Nakagawa Race at Nasu-karasuyama (Tochigi)May 12: Race #2 Okutama Race at Okutama Town (Tokyo)June 23: Race #3: Oze-hinoemata Race at Hinoemata (Fukushima)Sept. 8: Race #4: Okuoi Race at Kawana Honmachi (Shizuoka)
Japan Ski Resort Guidewww.outdoorjapan.com/snow
Once the sakura bloom in the city, it may feel like the snow season is over but, this year especially, it’s not by a long shot. Many ski resorts are open until after Golden Week and, if you haven’t enjoyed the joy of skiing under spring blue skies, then joining your friends for post-ski BBQ, you don’t know what you are missing. In fact, some resorts such as Yamagata’s Gassan or Niigata’s Okutadami Maruyama don’t even open until March or April, so you can ski almost until summer.
High elevation places such as Hakuba in Nagano are a great place for spring snowshoeing. Get some exercise, enjoy a picnic and watch and listen to the mountains begin to come alive as the scenery begins to change from white to green.
Sea to Summit 2012www.montbell.com
Montbell is Japan's top homegrown outdoor gear company and, apart from making great gear, they also put on some great multi-sport races where competitors start with their feet dipped in the ocean and finish enjoying a great view from atop a mountain. The events often include sea kayaking, cycling and hiking and welcome competitors with all levels of fitness who want to spend a great day outdoors. May 26-27: 大山/Daisen Sea to Summit 2012 (Tottori)June 16-17: 大雪 旭岳/Asahidake Sea to Summit 2012 (Hokkaido)Sept. 8-9: 鳥海山/Chokai-san Sea to Summit 2012 (Akita & Yamagata)Sept. 29-30: 高津川/Takatsugawa Sea to Summit 2012 (Shimane)Nov. 23-24: 奥河内/Okukawachi Sea to Summit 2012 (Osaka)
SpRiNG ADvENTuRE RACiNGWhat Japan lacks in sheer size, it more than makes up for in diversity as the country, surrounded by ocean, has countless rivers and mountains that provide an amazing backdrop for multi-sport activities such as adventure racing and triathlons. Plan a trip around an event this year for a challenge, plenty of action and an unforgettable adventure.
SpRiNG SKiiNG!
8 S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
EVENT SPOTLIGHTSRACES & EVENTS
9S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
HABU PORT波浮湾
MIHARAYAMATRAIL HEAD三原山登山口
MT. MIHARAYAMA三原山
MT. KUSHIGATA櫛形山
MIHARA CRATER噴火口
GOJINKA ONSEN御神火温泉
MOTOMACHI PORT元町湾
MOTOMACHI HAMA-NO-YUOUTDOOR HOT SPRINGS
元町浜の湯
HINODEHAMA BEACH日の出浜
OSHIMA ONSENTRAIL HEAD大島温泉登山口OSHIMA HOT
SPRING HOTEL大島温泉ホテル
OKADA PORT岡田湾
OSHIMA NATURAL PARK都立大島公園
THE SEASIDE NATURE TRAILシーサイド・ネイチャー・トレイル
THE TEXAS TRAILテキサストレイル
THE OMOTE SABAKU TRAIL表砂漠トレイル
THE OHACHI MEGURI TRAILお鉢めぐりトレイルP.26 ◀
P.27 ◀
▶ P.28
▶ P.29
What would it feel like to run on the moon?
Would you settle for blazing a trail on a live volcano in Tokyo?
By Pauline Kitamura
Running on the Moon
in Oshima大島で月を走る
月の上で走ったらどんな気分？ 東京にある活火山トレイルで疑似体験！
10 S P R I N G 2 0 1 210
O n a clear day, if you are standing on the beach of Sagami Bay, an island rises out in
the distance. On a hazy day it is barely visible, yet getting there is a mere one-hour-and-40-minute boat ride. The volcanic island of Oshima is 120 kilometers south of Tokyo. The island is filled with wondrous scenery and astounding trails that will undoubtedly awe and impress even well traveled trail runners.
In order to get a feel for the place, first look at the huge, stark black volcano in the center of the island. The volcanic mountain is called Mihara-yama (764m) or Mt. Mihara, and is the largest on Oshima. It majestically overlooks everything and everyone on the island, like a towering god.
Usually, this serene mountain sleeps peacefully. However, every 35 years or so, it awakens to transform into a ferocious rumbling, red-hot lava-spitting ogre. The most recent eruption was in 1986, and it was big enough that the entire island was completely evacuated. This volcano, one of the most
active in the world, is both the creator and destroyer of the distinctive land features and unique trails that crisscross Oshima.
So where should you start exploring? While it’s possible to begin your hike or run from the very bottom of the mountain, most people who visit the island make their way up by bus or taxi to one of two trail heads located near the top of the mountain – the Mihara-Sancho Trail Head and the Mihara-yama Hot Springs Trail Head. From here you can climb to the top of Mihara-yama.
The summit is essentially a central hub from which trails radiate out in all directions toward the ocean. There are many fantastic trails you can explore, but the four introduced here—the Ohachi Meguri, the Omote Sabaku Desert course, the Texas Hiking course, and the beautiful Seaside Nature Trail—are particularly impressive with diverse scenery ranging from black volcanic pyroclastic rock to lush green forests.
よく晴れた日、相模湾のビーチからはるか彼方にその島
は見える。もやのかかった日にはぼんやり見えるだけ
だが、その島までは船でたったの1時間40分。東京から南
に120kmのところに位置する火山島、大島の景色はどこを
取っても素晴らしく、経験豊かなトレイルランナーでさえ感激
してしまうトレイルでいっぱいだ。
ここがどんな場所なのか、まずは島の中心にそびえ立つ
黒 と々した巨大な火山を仰ぎ見てほしい。三原山（標高764
ｍ）と呼ばれる大島最大のこの山は、まるで神のごとく島の
すべてを見下ろしている。
今は静かに眠っているこの穏やかな山は、およそ35年の
周期で眠りから覚め、恐ろしい唸り声を上げ真っ赤な溶岩を
まき散らす怪物に変身する。直近の1986年の噴火の際に
は、島民全員が島外に避難するほど大規模なものだった。
世界でも最も活発な火山の一つに数えられる大島は、その
独特の地形と島中を走るユニークなトレイルを創造し、破壊
してきたのである。
それではどこから探検を始めようか？もちろんハイキング
やトレイルランを山の麓から始めることも出来るが、島を訪
れるたいていの人は、山頂近くにある二本の登山道入り口
（三原山頂口と三原山温泉口）までバスまたはタクシーを
利用する。ここから山頂まで足で登ることになる。
山頂は、基本的に海に向かって放射線状に伸びる複数
のトレイルの中心部分にあたる。行ってみたい素晴らしいト
レイルはたくさんあるが、ここではお鉢めぐりコース、表砂漠
コース、テキサスハイキングコース、そして海岸遊歩道の4
本のトレイルを紹介しよう。黒い火砕岩から緑の鮮やかな森
まで変化に富んだ風景が楽しめて特に印象深いコースばか
りである。
11S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
O ne of the most popular trails on Oshima is the Ohachi Meguri – a short but impressive
trail taking you right around the top of Mihara-yama. The easiest way to get there is from the Mihara-yama Trail Head (you can take a bus or taxi up to the trail head). Here you’ll find a cozy tea house (Gojinka Chaya) with superb views of the volcano as well as several gift shops for the tourists who, by the way, come by the busloads. There are washrooms, a rest area with benches, and even a police station here.
From the lookout area, you’ll see a single asphalt road cutting across the barren landscape. The route is simple. Just walk down the hill and
take the long, straight road across a lava field. Once you reach the foot of the mountain, the road winds its way up toward the summit. It’s short but steep, so trod slowly, making sure to look back from time to time to check out the incredible vistas below.
Once you reach the top, in the middle of a cluster of jagged lava formations, you’ll see a Japanese torii – the gateway to the sacred Mihara Shrine. Take the stairs down to the shrine and look around. During the last eruption, molten lava oozed its way down the mountain, destroying everything in sight. Legend has it though, that when the lava reached this shrine, it miraculously
parted and flowed around it, thus leaving the shrine intact.
Needless to say, this Mihara Shrine is considered an object of worship by the people of Oshima. From the main trail, make sure you also take the short “detour” route up toward the center of the mountain where you can peer down into the scary, steaming hole of an impressive crater. The Ohachi Meguri Trail is well maintained, making it a relatively easy hike, and the 360-degree panoramic views from the top of this volcano are breathtaking.
CRATERTRAILS
大島で最も人気の高いトレイルの一つがお鉢めぐ
りコースだ。長くはないが、三原山頂をぐるりと
回る素晴らしいコースである。一番簡単な行き方は、三
原山頂口から。登山口まではバスかタクシーで向かう。
登山口には火山の眺めが最高なじんまりとした茶店（御
神火茶屋）や、バスでやって来る観光客のための土産
物屋をはじめ、トイレとベンチの置かれた休憩所や、交
番まである。
展望所からは、殺風景な荒野を横切る一本の道路が
見える。ルートは簡単、坂を下って溶岩地帯の間を長く
真っすぐに伸びる道をただひたすら進むのだ。山の麓から
道はくねくねと曲がりながら山頂を目指す。距離は長くな
いが傾斜が急なので、ゆっくり歩いて時々後ろを振り返り、
眼下に見える素晴らしい景色を確認するのを忘れずに。
頂上に着くと、ギザギザに尖った溶岩の塊の真ん中
に鳥居が見えるはずだ。神聖な三原神社の入り口であ
る。神社に向かって階段を降りて周囲を見渡すと、前
回の噴火の際に溶けた溶岩が山から流れ出し、目に見
えるものすべてを破壊したのが分かる。言い伝えによる
と、溶岩がこの神社に達した時、その手前で二手に分
かれたためこの神社は無傷で残ったと言われている。言
うまでもなく、この三原神社は大島に暮らす人々の信仰
の対象となっている。
メイントレイルから外れ、山の中心に向かう脇道に立
ち寄って、恐ろしい噴火口から蒸気が立ち上る穴を覗い
てみるのも忘れずに。お鉢めぐりコースはよく整備されて
いて歩きやすく、火山の頂上からの360度の眺望は息を
呑むばかりである。
The Ohachi Meguri Trail お鉢めぐりコース
(approximately 6 kilometers, 2 - 3 hours / 6 km、 2～3時間)
12 S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
噴火口トレイル
O n the south foot of Mihara-yama is an area called “Omote Sabaku” or “front desert.”
The most exciting way to reach the trail, in my opinion, is to dash down from the top of Mihara-yama, hollering and whooping in ecstatic delight.
Unlike hard-packed dirt trails, the “trails” here are crumbly granular lava rock, and the trick is to keep your balance while letting your feet comfortably sink and slide with the rocks as you descend.
As its name accurately reflects, every which way you look, the land spreads out in front of you like a remote barren desert and, if there’s one word that jumps to mind upon seeing this, it’s
“freedom!” Walking (or running) counter-clockwise
around the mountain, you’ll be treated to views of the regal Mihara-yama on your left and the ocean and Izu Islands floating in the horizon on your right. You’ll also pass by an old concrete foundation of a roller slide, a remnant from the 1930s heydays.
Back then, Oshima used to be a busy place, hustling and bustling with people and motorcars. Famous artists and writers, sea-faring sailors, fashionable young ladies and a ton of tourists all flocked to this popular island destination.
One of the main “attractions” other than the
volcano was a super long roller slide that zipped you down the mountainside. Certainly a must-do for thrill seekers at the time. Unfortunately, the metal roller slide had to be dismantled during the war when Japan ran into a shortage of steel. So today we’re left with only the concrete foundation and our imagination.
As you make your away along the trail, the unbelievable vastness of it all will make you begin to wonder whether you’re really in Japan…or perhaps on the moon. The sky, the desert, the mountains and, oh, the views. The views!
BLACK DESERT
RUNNING
三原山の麓の南側のエリアは表砂漠と呼ばれる。
このコースにたどり着く方法で筆者がお勧めする
のは、三原山頂から大声で歓声を上げながら駆け下りる
ことである。
踏み固められた土のトレイルと違い、このトレイルはもろ
いザラ目状の火砕岩なので、身体のバランスを取りながら
足を付いた時に砂利の上で滑らせるのが降り方の秘訣。
表砂漠では、その名の通り見渡す限り不毛な砂漠の
ような風景が広がり、これを見て心に浮かぶのは「解放
感」という言葉である。
山麓を時計と反対回りに歩くか走ってみれば、左手
には堂 と々した三原山が、右手には水平線に伊豆諸島
の浮かぶ海が見え、同時に栄華を誇った1930年代の名
残のローラースライドの古いコンクリート製の基礎の横を
通り過ぎる。
当時の大島は人々や車がひっきりなしに行き交うよう
な場所で、有名な芸術家や作家、羽振りの良い漁師や
お洒落な若い女性、それに多くの観光客がこの島を目
指して集まった。
火山以外にこの島で人気が高かったのは、三原山を
一気に滑り降りるローラースライドだった。当時スリルを
求める者にとってはたまらないものだったはずだが、鉄不
足に陥った戦時中に撤去されてしまい、今日私たちが見
ることが出来るのはコンクリート製の基礎だけで、あとは
想像を膨らませるしかない。
トレイルを歩いていると、その広大さに圧倒され、ここ
が本当に日本なのか、あるいは月にいるのではないかと
思ってしまうほど。空と山と景色、素晴らしい景色である。
The Omote Sabaku Trail 表砂漠コース
(approximately 7 km, 3 - 5 hours / 約7 km、 3～5時間)
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黒砂漠
W hen a Japanese person imagines what the Lone Star State of Texas is like, perhaps
the barren scene here is what comes to mind. Most likely named for its spacious, ranch-like setting, the land near the top is a mountain made of black volcanic rock with not a tree in sight. But the real beauty of this trail is the amazing change you’ll see as you descend from the top of Mihara-yama toward the ocean.
First, you’ll pass through a sea of black lava rock, frozen into weird eye-catching formations for eternity (or at least until the next eruption). As you descend further, you’ll start to see a few hardy looking plants and some low growing shrubbery
here and there. The more you descend, the more trees you’ll find, until finally you’ll find yourself running through a beautiful green forest with the sound of the ocean ahead of you.
The trail ends at the Oshima Park where there are more than 10,000 Japanese camellia trees planted and bright red and pink camellia flowers blooming between the months of January and March. There are not that many trails in the world where you can experience the various ecosystems of an island in one descending swoop, and the dramatic change as you go from the very top of the island all the way down to the sea is fascinating to see and experience.
SUMMITTO SEA
おそらく日本人がテキサス州はどんなところかと想像
した時、この荒れ果てた土地が思い浮かんだの
ではないだろうか。名前の由来になったと
思われる広大な牧場のような土地の
頂上付近は黒い溶岩に覆われ草
木一本さえ生えていない。だが
このトレイルの素晴らしいところ
は、三原山頂から海へ向かって
下るにつれ、景色が大きく変わる
ことである。
下り始めは黒 と々した溶岩の海が
永久に（少なくとも次の噴火の時までは）
続くかと思われるような異様な風景が目につくのだ
が、やがてたくましい植物と背の低い茂みがそこかしこ
に見え始め、下るにつれて木の数も増えてくる。そして
気づけば美しい緑濃い森の中を走っており、前の方から
海の音が聞こえてくるのだ。
トレイルのゴールは大島公園。１万本以
上のツバキの木が植えられ、1月から3月に
かけて鮮やかな赤やピンクの花を咲か
せる。一つのトレイルを下るだけで、こ
こまで多様な生態系を体験できるコー
スは世界中を探してもなかなかない。島
の頂上から海まで一気に下るまでの劇的
な変化は感動的である。
The Texas Trail テキサストレイル
(Approximately 7 kilometers, 3 - 5 hours / 約7km、3～5時間)
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頂上から海へ
O n the northeastern side of the island, there is a lovely Seaside Nature Trail perfect for hiking and trail running. The gently undulating dirt trail
takes you over cliffs overlooking the ocean, between rows of Japanese Black Pine, and underneath beautiful camellia tree tunnels. The path darts in and out of the forest, opening up from time to time to reveal the crashing waves below.
SEASIDE STROLL
島の北東部にある海岸自然遊歩道は、ハイキングやトレイルランに打ってつけの
トレイルである。なだらかな起伏のある曲がりくねった土の遊歩道は、崖の上
から海を見下ろし、クロマツ並木の間や美しいツバキのトンネルの下を抜けていく。道
は森の中を出たり入ったりして、時おり視界が開けて下の方に砕ける波が見える。
The Seaside Nature Trail 海岸自然遊歩道
(Approximately 4 kilometers, 1 -2.5 hours / 約4 km、 1～2.5時間)
OSHIMA FACTSO shima, which translates into “Big Island” despite only being nine kilometers
wide and 15 kilometers long, is the largest and most populated of a group of islands collectively called Izu Shichito (or Izu Seven Islands). These islands are in fact officially a part of Tokyo but, as anyone who’s been there will quickly realize, entirely a world away from the busy neon metropolitan.
Oshima is renowned for its beautiful bright red Japanese camellia flowers that blossom in early spring and for its excellent diving spots during the summer. The island’s centerpiece however, is undoubtedly Mihara-yama, the live volcano that sits right smack dab in the middle of the island. In September 2010, the island of Oshima was officially designated as a UNESCO Geopark.
大島は「大きな島」という意味だが、実際には横9km、縦15kmの小さな島で、伊豆七島と呼ばれる島群の中では面積としても人口の面でも最大の島である。伊豆七島は公式に
は東京都に所属するが、一度でもここを尾訪れた者は、ネオンの眩しい大都会とは全くの別世界だということに気付く。大島は、初春に美しく咲く真っ赤なツバキの花と、夏期のダイビングスポットとして有名であ
る。しかしここの中心は紛れもなく三原山で、この活火山は島の真ん中に鎮座している。2010年9月に、大島は正式にユネスコのジオパークに指定された。
Total area / 総面積: 91 km2
Size / 広さ: 9 km. east to west, 15 km. north to south / 東西9 km、南北15 kmCircumference / 周囲: 52 km.Population / 人口: 8,483 (as at April 1, 2011) / 8,483人（2011年4月1日現在）Highest Point / 最高点: Mihara-yama, 764 meters / 三原山 764 mPhoto courtesy of Tokai Kisen
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海岸遊歩道
GETTING THERE / 行き方The fastest and most convenient way to get to Oshima is by high-speed jet boat. A slower but cheaper alternative is to take the overnight ferry that leaves Tokyo at night and arrives in Oshima early in the morning. If you want to get there quickly, there are flights from Haneda Airport to Oshima as well.
大島への最も速くて便利な行き方は、高速ジェット船だ。もう少し時間が掛かるが安いのは、東京を夜に出発し大島に朝到着する夜行の客船である。本当に早く行きたいのならば羽田から飛行機も出ている。
High-speed Jet Boat / 高速ジェット船Travel time: 1 hour, 45 minutesDeparting from: Takeshiba Sanbashi Pier, Hamamatsucho, Tokyo, as well as Kurihama, Atami, Ito, Tateyama所要時間: 1時間45分出発地: 竹芝桟橋（浜松町）、久里浜・熱海・伊東（神奈川県）、館山（千葉県）
Ferry / 大型客船Travel time: Approximately 4 - 6 hoursDeparting from: Takebashi Sanbashi Pier, Yokohama, and ShimodaSee the Tokai Kisen Web site for schedules and fares. 所要時間: 4～6時間出発地: 竹芝桟橋、横浜、下田時刻表と料金については東海汽船HPを参照のことWeb: www.tokaikisen.co.jp/english/ Tel: 04992-2-5522
By Plane / 飛行機Travel time: 40 minutes Departing from: Haneda Airport所要時間: 40分 出発地: 羽田空港ANA Domestic Flight ReservationsTel: 0570-029-222 Web: www.anawings.co.jp
GETTING AROUND / 現地の交通手段Bus / バスOshima Bus / 大島バスTel: 04992-2-1822Web: http://oshima-bus.com
Taxi / タクシーOshima Koutsu / 大島交通, Tel: 04992-4-1392Nagaoka Koutsu / 長岡交通, Tel: 04992-2-2691
Car Rental / レンタカーIzu Oshima Car Rentals / 伊豆大島レンタカーTel: 04992-2-2691Toyota Rent-a-Lease / トヨタレンタリースTel: 04992-2-1611Kaiyou Car Rentals / 海洋レンタカーTel: 04922-2-2740Nihon Car Rentals / 日本レンタカーTel: 04992-2-3039
Bicycle Rental / レンタサイクルRamble Rental Cycle /ランブルレンタサイクルTel: 04992-2-3398Asami Bike Rentals / 朝海貸し自転車Tel: 03992-2-8407
RECOMMENDED ACCOMMODATIONS宿泊施設Asami-kan / 朝海館東京都大島町岡田字助田58-1Tel: 04992-2-8407Web: www.asamikan.com
Izu Oshima Onsen Hotel / 伊豆大島温泉ホテル東京都大島町泉津字木積場3-5 Tel: 04992-2-1673Web: www.oshima-onsen.co.jp/index.html
HOT SPRINGS / 温泉Opening times vary depending on the season. Please check the hot spring websites for hours of operation.季節により利用時間が異なるため、営業時間をウェブサイトでチェックのこと。
Gojinka Hot Springs / 御神火温泉A spacious hot springs onsen facility with a 25-meter pool and sauna.広 と々した温泉施設で、25mプールとサウナも併設。東京都大島町元町字仲の原1-8Tel: 04992-2-0909Web: www.town.oshima.tokyo.jp/highlight/gojinka.html
Motomachi Hamanoyu / 元町浜の湯Watch the sunset over the ocean in this open-air hot spring.Bathing suits required.露天風呂から夕陽が楽しめる。水着着用のこと。東京都大島町元町字トンチ畑882Tel: 04992-2-1446 Web: www.town.oshima.tokyo.jp/highlight/hamanoyu.html
WEB CONNECTION / ウェブサイトOshima Tourism Association / 大島観光協会www.izu-oshima.or.jp/
Oshima Town Official Site / 大島町オフィシャルサイトwww.town.oshima.tokyo.jp/
Oshima Navi / 大島ナビwww.oshima-navi.com
Izu Oshima GeoPark / 伊豆大島ジオパークwww.izu-oshima.or.jp/geopark/
Tokyo Islands / 東京島www.tokyo-islands.com
Adventure DivasPauline Kitamura is the founder of Adventure Divas, a company that runs trail running, hiking, multi-sport and adventure tours in Japan. Web: www.adventure-divas.com
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By Lee Dobson
A BlueShade of Pink
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H ardly a quote with which to launch a thousand ships, and
nor did it. It was these words however that inspired me to take an interest in Honshu’s northernmost prefecture, Aomori—the land of blue forests.
A quick search resulted in an image of an area unkempt and wild, much like its native son, Dazai.
A BlueShade of Pink
“Mine has been a life of much shame” —— Dazai Osamu, 1948 (From his book No Longer Human, or Ningen Shikkaku)
クリストファー・マウローの戯曲に登場する「千の船を出陣させた顔」という表現さながら、
太宰のこの一文は、僕に青森の地への興味を抱かせるに十分だった。
青森県には、この地出身の太宰と良く似た荒々しい自然が手つかずの状態で残っている。南に秋田県と岩手県が隣接し、津軽海峡の向こうには北海道を望む、本州最北の県だ。
「恥の多い生涯を送ってきました」 （1948年太宰治著『人間失格』より）
ピンクの青い木陰
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A omori is bordered by Akita and Iwate
prefectures to its south, and faces
Hokkaido to the north across the Tsurugu Strait.
Tsuguru is also the name of one of the two ben
(dialects) spoken in the area, with the other
being nambu-ben.
The dialects are both unique to northern
Japan, with a majority of Japanese not having a
clue what is being said. The unusual language
adds to the feeling of isolation, but its lyrical
sound makes it pleasurable to hear.
It was a treat to sit in a hot bath and listen
to the locals chat and enjoy it for nothing more
than the sound.
For most of its prolific history, Aomori was
little more than forests and coastline. Apart
from the few hearty farmers and hunters who
inhabited the area, it was a place to escape the
populaces in the southwest part of Japan.
In 1871 the Meiji government took an interest
in the locale and changed it from its former
name of Mutsu Province to what we know it as
today. Fishing, farming and forestry drive the
local economy, with Aomori apples enjoying a
claim to fame as some of Japan’s best.
After 1945, Japan went through a “lost” period,
as she tried to come to terms with her post-war
place. It was interesting that two prominent
figures who played key roles in redefining the
nation should both come from such a remote
area.
Dazai Osamu, the pseudonym of Tsushima
Shuji, was born the 10th child of 11 in Kanagi,
Goshogawara, in the northwestern part of
Aomori. Master novelist and storyteller Dazai
was a literary hero and voice to millions. His
novels and short stories, often biographical,
were gritty, depressing and caught the mood of
many at the time.
青森県では、津軽弁と南部弁の２つの方言が話されている。現地の人以外には理解不能な東北独特の強い訛りは、辺境の地らしい情感を漂わせ、その叙情的な響きが耳に心地良い。聞こえてくるローカルの話し声を純粋に楽しみながら温泉に浸かる時間は、なかなか贅沢なものだった。まあ、話の内容は全く分からなかったけれど。
長い間、青森は豊かな森と海岸線に守られた静かな土地で、屈強な百姓や狩人が住みついてきた以外には、南西部から未開の地を求めてやってくる人が少しいるくらいだった。
1841年、明治政府による廃藩置県の詔によって、陸奥から青森県が誕生した。漁業、農業、林業といった第一次産業が主力で、なかでも青森のりんごは日本有数の知名度を誇る。
1945年以降、敗戦国として戦後の復興期を迎えた日本の再興に関わった重要人物ふたりが、青森のような辺ぴな土地から誕生したことはなかなか興味深い。
太宰治（本名、津島修治）は、11人きょうだいの10番目の子として、青森県北西部にある五所川原市に産まれた。太宰の文章は時代の風潮を捉えた、真に迫る深刻な
Farther south another figure to affect Japan’s
post-war period was born in the castle town
of Hirosaki. Ishizaka Youjiro, born in 1900. A
veteran correspondent of the war, Ishizaka took
a different approach to Dazai and showed the
nation how it could be, rather than how it was.
His novel, Aoi Sanmyaku or Blue Mountain Range,
was hugely popular, and it played an influential
role in introducing the idea of a new Japan.
Unfortunately, few of Ishizaka’s novels have
been translated into English, but they inspired
a frenzy of movies that helped Japan climb out
of its slump.
Given it was early May, and the cherry
blossoms had yet to shed their petals, I decided
to visit the town that spawned a post-war hero,
and take in the famous cherry blossoms of
Hirosaki Castle.
Hirosaki is/was Japan’s northernmost castle
town, located on the Tsugaru Plains, a short
distance from Akita’s northern border.
The town sprang to life in 1571 after local
warlord Oura Tamenobu declared himself
independent of the Nambu clan and seized
power in the area.
In 1590, after assisting Toyotomi Hideyoshi in
the battle of Odawara, Tamenobu was rewarded
with large parcels of land in the area and
confirmed as the local daimyo. At that time he
changed his name to Tsugaru.
In 1603, Tsugaru began construction on
Hirosaki Castle, only to stop a year later after his
death in Kyoto. Construction resumed in 1609,
under Tsugaru Nobuhira, and it was completed
in 1611.
From all accounts it was an impressive
structure before nature rendered splendor moot
by means of a lightning strike on a stormy eve
in 1627. The ensuing fire quickly engulfed the
powder magazine, with the resulting explosion
destroying the original six-story, five-roof
structure.
The three-story structure that stands today
was built in 1810, by the ninth daimyo, Tsugaru
Yasuchika.
作風で、時に自伝的でもあった数々の名作を遺して民衆から大きな支持を得た。
もうひとりの人物は、1900年弘前市生まれの石坂洋次郎。陸軍報道の経験も持つ石坂は、太宰とはまた違ったアプローチで民衆に新たな未来を示した。大流行した代表作『青い山脈』は、民主主義の啓発に大きな影響を及ぼした作品だと言われている。残念なことに石坂の作品はあまり英訳されていないが、多くが映画化され、日本の戦後復興の大きな一歩となった。
ふたりの英雄を生みだした街を巡り、花見スポットとして有名な弘前公園を訪れることにした。5月初旬だというのに、桜の花はまだ散っていなかった。
弘前は日本最北の城下町で、秋田県との県境からほど近い津軽平野に位置している。城主大浦為信は、1571年に南部一族を攻撃しこの一帯を支配した。1590年には、豊臣秀吉の小田原征伐に参陣し、秀吉より所領を安堵され地元大名となったのだという。この年から、大浦為信は姓を津軽と改名している。
1603年、津軽為信は弘前城の建設に着工したが、建設途中の1607年に京都で死去したため、一旦中断されて
しまう。1609年に息子の津軽信枚が引き継ぎ、弘前城は1611年になってようやく完成を迎えた。
元々あった5重6階の立派な天守は、残念ながら1627年の嵐の夜、落雷によって炎上し、その炎が火薬に引火したため大爆発を起こし、消失してしまった。現存の3重の天守は、1810年、第9代藩主津軽寧親の代になって建築されたものだそうだ。
1871年には明治政府の手に委ねられ、大日本帝国陸軍部隊の分営が置かれた際に多くの建物や城壁が取り壊されてしまった。そして1894年には藩主の申し出によって城址が公園として一般開放されるようになった。
今では、4月終わりから5月初旬にかけて毎年2600本の桜が見事に咲き誇る。日本屈指の花見スポットとして知られ、毎年100万人を越える来場者が訪れている。開場時間は、9時から17時まで。弘前城への入園料は300円で、それに弘前城植物園と藤田記念庭園の共通入園券がついたものが500円で発売されていて、桃色に染まった見事な景色を満喫できる。
4月23日から5月5日まで行われる弘前さくらまつり期間中は、夜10時まで開園していて、ライトアップされた幻想
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In 1871, the castle was handed over to the new
Meiji government and, after being garrisoned
by the Imperial Japanese Army, it was largely
dismantled with a number of buildings and most
of the walls being taken down.
In 1894, the site was donated by the Tsugaru
clan to the government for use as a park.
A total of 2,600 cherry blossom trees breathe
life and vitality into the grounds each year at the
end of April and early May, and they give canvas
to one of Japan’s most picturesque scenes.
The view is enjoyed by more than a million
visitors, from when the grounds open at 9 a.m. to
closing time at 5 p.m. The admission fee of ¥300
(¥500 for both the castle and botanical gardens)
is well worth it, as you get to feast your eyes on
one of Japan’s finest displays of pink petals.
During the cherry blossom festival which runs
from April 23 to May 5, the grounds stay open as
late as 10 p.m. to give one plenty of time to enjoy
the spectacular light-up. Stick around after
the lights dim, and you are treated to the sight
of dozens of locals pitching in to clean up the
rubbish for the next day. Stalls provide ample
opportunities to sample local fare.
Hirosaki is more than just its cherry blossom
festival; being home to some fine examples of
Renaissance-style architecture Japan has to
offer. Hirosaki is also the hometown of popular
manga artist Nara Yoshitomo, noted for his
drawings of moody and sometimes evil-looking
“cute” kids.
Hirosaki is but the tip of a tourist iceberg,
showing just a glimpse of what Aomori has to
offer. What a stylish glimpse it provides. ✤
的な桜並木を楽しめる。ライトが消えるまでブラブラしていると、地元の人たちが次の日の為にゴミ拾いに精を出す姿に出会うはずだ。並んだ屋台では、地元ならではの美味しい食べ物が並び、土地の食文化に触れるいい機会でもある。
もちろん弘前市は、さくら以外の見どころもたっぷりだ。日本でも珍しいルネッサンス様式の建造物は有名だし、独特な“コワかわいい“少女の絵で有名な世界的ポップアーティスト奈良美智の出身地でもある。
弘前市は、青森県の溢れる魅力のほんの氷山の一角に過ぎない。粋な青森を、是非是非ご自分の目で確かめて頂きたい。 ✤
23S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
Getting ThereThe Shinkansen now runs up to Aomori City and, once you
are there, just jump on the limited express train, Tsugaru, and it will see you in Hirosaki around 30 minutes later. All in all, Hirosaki is a five-hour train ride from Tokyo, thanks to bullet train access. From Hirosaki Station, take the Dotemachi Loop Bus for 15 minutes and get off at Shiyakusho-mae bus stop.
Accommodation can be pretty scarce during the cherry blossom season, so it may be worth looking at places to stay in either Aomori City or Akita. There is plenty of bus or train access from both places.
Web ConnectionHirosaki City: www.city.hirosaki.aomori.jp/index.htmlAomori Prefecture: www.pref.aomori.lg.jpTravel Info: www.hyperdia.com/en/
アクセス 東北新幹線で、新青森まで一直線。そこから津軽方面に向かって特急電車で30分走ると弘前駅に到着する。東京から弘前市までは約5時間の電車の旅。弘前駅から弘前城に行くには、土手町循環バスに乗り込み、15分程先の市役所前バス停で下車。さくらまつり期間中、宿泊施設はどこも混雑が
予想される。バスや電車の便が良いので、青森市や秋田に宿泊して巡るのも良いだろう。
24 S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
上 げ 潮じゃ H I G H T I D EBy Mitsuharu Kume
“N ow is the time to show ossan power,” said a surfing friend of
mine from Fukushima. His wife had taken his kids and left Fukushima to escape the invisible dangers of radiation. He chose to stay and now was alone in Fukushima. Despite some stomach problems, he was putting all his energy into building a better Fukushima for the future — the day when everyone would return again. Ossan refers to men like him — men in their 40s and 50s, not yet ojisan, but who in some ways had reached the peak of their life.
I had first met him in Fukushima in 2007, when I was doing a nationwide slide show called Nihon Isshu Tempura Abura no Tabi (A Trip Around Japan on Tempura Oil). The show covered the half-year trip the four members of my family and our two dogs took on a bus powered by tempura oil. He was an expert at snowboarding, surfing and skating. He was running a shop and had started his own snowboard brand. He was very energetic and beloved by many.
That meet ing s tar ted of f a l ively relationship. He had come to visit me down
in Tanegashima, the island in southern Japan where I live. Five months after the March 11, 2011, earthquake, I in turn went to visit him. With Geiger counter in hand, I went to where he was living.
He brought me to an onsen ryokan run by his friend. It was there that a number of people who had lost their homes to the tsunami, or whose homes were in the high radiation areas, were living. We got into the rotenburo (outdoor hot spring) and talked for hours.
Many people who wanted to know about the actual conditions in Fukushima, but there was very little information. He spoke passionately to me about this for hours. He lamented that, even though he had listened to noted researchers, he had no clear vision of the future for Fukushima.
When I returned to my island, I decided there was something I could do. A tsunami can happen anywhere. Together with the people of Tanegashima, we could learn a lesson from the earthquake, so that the deaths of the thousands of people in Tohoku would not be in vain.
We invited another surfer, who was an associate professor and also friend of my Fukushima fr iend, to visit us in Tanegashima. He gave three short presentations about life in Fukushima after the disaster. We also enjoyed some peaceful surfing sessions together. As fellow people of the sea, we were concerned about the mental state of those who were afraid to return to the ocean.
“Age shio ja, age shio ja.” The tide is rising, things are moving in the right direction—so goes the old saying. The earthquake has really strengthened my feeling of being Japanese, of understanding we are all classmates in the school life, learning the lessons the Earth teaches us. We should strive to do our best.
We can’t forget that there are people like my friend living in Fukushima. There are in fact a lot of ossan living there and they sometimes get a bit of teasing from younger people in Japan. Yet, we should do what we can to help them build a better future for Japan. Now is the time for us to show our ossan power.
「 オ ッ サ ン パ ワ ー 」 Ossan Power
「今こそ、オッサンパワーを
見せる時なんだ」
この言葉を発したのは、FUKU-
SHIMA
のサーフィン仲間。彼の子
供は、見えない放射線から逃れる
ため奥さんとその土地を離れ、彼
はひとり福島に残っている。みん
なが帰って来れるようになった時
のために、今よりもっといい福島
に生まれ変わらせようと胃腸炎
になりながらも福島でパワー全
開なのだ。
彼に初めて出会ったのは、
僕が「日本一周天ぷら油の旅」
（２００７写真のスライドショー
を日本全国でやろうと、家族４
人犬２匹を乗せ、天ぷら油を燃
料にしたバスで半年間旅をした）
で福島に寄ったときのこと。彼は
スノーボード、サーフィン、スケー
トと全てにずば抜けて上手く、
ショップを経営、スノーボードブ
ランド立ち上げの他イベントの
主催などにも精力的に活動し、
多くの人に慕われている。そんな
彼との交流が続き、僕の暮らす
日本の南の島、種子島に遊びに来
てくれたこともあった。そして、あ
の震災から５ヵ月後、僕は彼を
訪ねた。ガイガーカウンターを持
ち、一人で暮らす彼のところへ。
彼は、友人がやっているという
温泉旅館に連れていってくれた。
そこには家を津波で流されたり、
放射線量が高く家に帰れない被
災者が静かに暮らしていた。露天
風呂に入り、長い長い時間話を
した。届いていない福島の本当の
現状を多くの人に知って欲しい
と、熱く語ってくれた。そして、ど
んなに偉い研究者に話を聞いて
も、福島の未来が見えないと嘆い
ていた。
僕は島に帰り、やろうと決めて
いたことがあった。津波はどこで
も起こりうる。種子島の人と共に
この地震から学べる事は学び、命
を落とした方々のその“死”を
無駄にしてはいけない。
僕は彼のサーフィン仲間で大
学准教授の方と彼を島に招いて、
短い滞在期間に講演を３か所で
お願いし、また、ゆっくりサーフィ
ンも楽しんでもらった。海の仲間
として海に入れない暮らしをし
ている彼らの精神状態も心配
だったのだ。
「上げ潮じゃ、上げ潮じゃ」（日
本で物事がいい方向に進むとき
に使う古い言葉）。
この大震災を通して、自分は日
本人だ、と思った。地球が校舎で、
世界の人々が生徒だったら、日本
組という同じクラスメート。いろ
んな人がいて、みんな仲間。
彼のような人が今も暮らして
いることを、忘れちゃいけないし、
少しでも力になりたい。そして、
日本組をとてもいいクラスにした
い。そんな思いで多くの人が動き
出している。
被災地以外で暮らしている
オッサン達よ、日頃は若者に煙た
がれているかもしれないが、今こ
そオッサンパワー見せつけよう
じゃないですか。
25S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
青 々としたコスラエを 旅 する
EXPLORINGLUSH KOSRAE
Story & photos by Tim Rock
S P R I N G 2 0 1 226
LUSH KOSRAEMost people haven’t heard of this little Pacific island, but
those who visit never forget hiking to hidden waterfalls,
searching an endemic forest for a lost city, snorkeling a maze
of mangroves or diving amidst rich corals and sharks.
太平洋に浮かぶ小さな島、コスラエ。その存在はまだあまり知られていない。原生森の中の美しい滝や遺跡探検、マングローブの迷路でのシュノーケリング、豊かな珊瑚礁とサメたちに出会えるダイビング… それは、決して忘れられない旅になるだろう。
27S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
Island BeatJapan Islands–Micronesia
L ocated in the north-central Pacific, Kosrae is part of the Federated States of Micronesia
(FSM) and is a true gem. Many of the people here lead a natural lifestyle. It is not unusual to see men in dugout canoes paddling out to fish. Women use woven items to carry fruits to market. Riding a bamboo raft with the incoming tide at an inlet is a great source of fun and thrills for adventurous children.
The other states in the FSM are the capital of Pohnpei, Chuuk (Truk Lagoon) and Yap. Each state has developed unique cultural characteristics. For instance, in Kosrae, the Congregational Church plays an extremely important role in everyday life, while in Chuuk clan relationships remain an important factor.
Over the last 15 years, Pohnpei has rapidly developed as the most westernized state, but it still retains a great many local customs. Even though the national government is located here, traditional leadership continues to play an important role.
HISTORY & HIKES
For pure nature and great daytrip adventures, Kosrae is the destination. The island has dense jungle, and even the mountains are covered in jungle. There are remnants of WWII located high in these hills as well as the reminders of Kosrae’s ancient past.
The Menke Ruins is a long hike and, to best see the entire area, one should plan on camping out in the jungle overnight. The temple of the Goddess of Breadfruit, Sinlaku, is here, and this is where she spent her last days before fleeing to Yap prior to the arrival of the missionaries in 1852.
The Menkes are the oldest such ruins in FSM and perhaps even the entire Micronesian sub-region, pre-dating both the Lelu ruins in Kosrae and Nan Madol in Pohnpei. What is perhaps the best feature of the Menke ruins is the Menke Valley itself, which holds the pure and untrammeled Menke River.
Easier to get to and explore, Kosrae’s famous Lelu Ruins sit in town not far from a seaside chapel. Considered one of the wonders of the Pacific huge basaltic slabs and arranged neatly, they make 20-foot walls that encompass what was once an ancient capital.
The Lelu Ruins were an active ruling metropolis through the latter part of the 19th century. The genesis of these ruins of large basaltic walls, channels, streets, tombs and living quarters dates back to the 13th century.
FALLS & FOREST
Jungle waterfalls await visitors and include the Sipyen Waterfall, a refreshing 30-foot cascade of mountain water that attracts bathers and
photographers. Located in Utwe, the waterfall offers a small bathing pool at the bottom. Getting there is a rocky, but short, five-minute walk.
Forest lovers will want to see the Yela Ka Forest with its newly completed boardwalk. Yela offers a pristine series of tropical island ecosystems and is one of the last roadless areas in the Pacific, remaining largely closed to the public.
At the center of the area is something to behold; a freshwater swamp dominated by hundreds of towering endemic Ka trees (Terminalia carolinensis). These trees have been referred to as the “Redwoods of Micronesia.”
CORAL REEFS
One of the island’s greatest attractions is Kosrae’s outer barrier reef. It is a blend of aquas and greens. In places, the reef plunges deeply close to shore. Signs of development are few on Kosrae, and the rugged ridges of the heavily jungled mountains dominate the shoreline residences.
Today, each has special features that make these dive destinations unique. Kosrae has been pretty much off the “snorkeled path.” Dive exploration here is not much more than a decade old. Adventurous pioneers such as Doug Beitz at Kosrae Nautilus Resort have been having a good time exploring while awaiting the masses to discover these undersea
KOSRAE
28 S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
太平洋中北に位置するミクロネシア連邦の州のひと
つ、コスラエ州。宝石のように美しいコスラエ島で
の暮らしは自然と共にあり、丸木舟で釣りに出かける男たち
や、果物を織り物に入れて市場まで運ぶ女性たちの姿を良
く目にする。冒険が大好きな子どもたちは竹のいかだに乗っ
て入江の波で遊ぶのがもっぱらのお気に入りだ。
ミクロネシア連邦は、コスラエ州に加えてポンペイ州、
チューク州（トラック諸島）、ヤップ州の計4州から構成され
ており、それぞれが独自の文化を持っている。コスラエでは
キリスト教の影響が色濃く、チュークでは首長制度が現在
でも重要視されている。この15年でポンペイ州の経済は急
激な欧米化を遂げ、連邦の首都機能をはたすようになった。
とはいえ、島にはまだすばらしい伝統的な風習が残り、族長
を主とした風習も根強く残っている。
歴史＆ハイキング
手付かずの自然を満喫したい人にとって、コスラエ島は
ぴったりの目的地だ。山の上まで続く熱帯雨林のジャング
ルをかき分け登っていくと、第二次世界大戦中の防空壕や
コスラエの歴史を物語る遺跡が現れる。メンケ遺跡までの
道のりは長く、じっくり堪能するには、ジャングルで一晩キャ
ンプをしながら進むのが良いだろう。ここにはかつて「シンラ
ク」というパンの実の女神を祭る神殿があり、1852年に宣
教師たちがやって来る前にヤップ島へと逃げるまでこの土
地で過ごしたとされている。メンケ遺跡は、同じコスラエにあ
るレラ遺跡や、ポンペイにあるナンマドール遺跡よりもっと
以前から存在していたと考えられており、ミクロネシア連邦
のみならずミクロネシア地域全体でも最も古い遺跡だと言
われている。そしてこの遺跡の何よりの見所は、透き通った
メンケ川が流れる、美しいメンケ谷の風景と言えるだろう。
メンケ遺跡よりアクセスが簡単なレラ遺跡は、海辺の教
会からそう遠くない場所に位置している。巨大な玄武岩が
積み上げられた高さ約７メートルの壁が古代都市をぐるりと
囲むこの遺跡は太平洋の謎のひとつと呼ばれる。19世紀
後半まで存在した古代王国の遺跡であり、巨大な石壁や
運河、墓、住居などは遥か昔、13世紀に建設されたものだ
と考えられている。
滝＆森
ウトウェのジャングルにある涼しげな、落差約10メートルの
シピエンの滝は写真撮影はもちろん、滝のふもとにある小さ
なプールでの水浴びにもってこいのスポットだ。岩道に注意
しながら、5分程で滝つぼまでたどり着ける。
森林好きにおすすめなのはイエラ・カ・フォレスト。最近
出来たばかりのボードウォークを歩くと、熱帯の島らしい様々
な生態系を見ることができる。ここは太平洋の中でも人があ
まり近づくことのできない残り少ない場所の一つでもある。
このエリアの中心には、ミクロネシアのアカ杉とも呼ばれ
る「カ」の木々がある。淡水の沼にそびえ立つこの木々の
光景は驚くべきものだ。
珊瑚礁
コスラエ島の一番の見所と言えば、なんと言っても外洋
のバリアリーフだ。紺碧とグリーンが混ざったそのサンゴ礁
は場所によって岸のすぐ近くまで伸びている。コスラエには
まだ開発の手が伸びておらず、海辺の家には深いジャング
ルに覆われた山の険しい尾根が目の前に迫る。
コスラエ島のダイビングスポットはそれぞれがとても個性
的だ。シュノーケリングスポットとしてもあまり脚光を浴びるこ
となく、ダイビングの歴史としては10年もない。コスラエ・ノー
チラスリゾートのダグ・ベイツの様なパイオニアは、私たち
がその海底の宝石をみつけるずっと前からここで最高の探
検をしていたということだ。
ここのサンゴ礁はおそらく太平洋で最も元気なはずだ。ほ
とんどの台風の東側に位置するため、あまり台風の影響を
受けないバラエティ豊かなサンゴ礁は、そのサイズと共に、
生物学者にはたまらない場所となっている。そして、ここで
は広大なマングローブが豊かな生態系を作り出すのに一役
買っている。
コスラエでは、メインとなる道路でさえ島一周しないわけ
で、その開発の遅れのおかげでサンゴ礁が素晴らしい姿を
残している。こういったサンゴ礁は、外洋の環礁でしか見ら
れないようなものばかりだ。魚も多いコスラエ島は、島中に
係留ブイとラインを張り巡らしており、その取り組みはミクロ
ネシアでもトップクラスなのだそうだ。
ダイビングでは、ヒロシ・ポイントへのボートトリップは外
せない。海に飛び込んだその瞬間、赤や黄色に美しく咲き
乱れる珊瑚礁の周りを悠然と泳ぐ魚たちが出迎えてくれる
はずだ。
浅い海では、イソギンチャクに戯れて珊瑚や藻をつつくブ
ダイたちの姿に出会える。水面からたった5メートル程の深さ
29S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
Island BeatJapan Islands–Micronesia
gems.The island is famous for amazing hard coral reefs
which are possibly the healthiest in the Pacific. The variety and size of these reefs, located east of most typhoon disturbances, is a biologist’s delight. The extensive mangroves add to the healthy formula for diversity.
The lack of development on Kosrae (the main road doesn’t even go all the way around the island) keeps the reefs in superb shape. They are the kind you expect to see at an outer atoll. Fish life is plentiful, and Kosrae has the finest mooring buoy program in Micronesia, with sites around the entire island with well-maintained buoys and lines.
For diving, don’t miss heading to Hiroshi Point by boat, so you can get right to the wall and start looking for action. The sloping drop-off at Hiroshi is covered in beautiful corals adorned by hovering fairy basslets in brilliant magentas and yellows.
A good variety of sea anemones and the shallower waters produce schools of parrotfish that roam the reef munching on corals and algae. Sand rays rest in the white sand flats, and big coral bommies come to within 15 feet of the surface, making this an ideal snorkel site and a great place for novice divers to enjoy a truly beautiful reef.
Or try Walung Dropoff for an amazing coral display of absolutely huge and varied coral heads and big bunches of colorful Christmas tree worms. Morays
hide within the cracks and crevices created by these thick, competitive corals.
Fantastic regal angelfish, absolutely brilliant flame angels, blackback butterflyfish, ornate butterflyfish, midnight snapper and a whole collection of other reef fish make this a superb spot for fish-watchers. Check out shrimp and octopus if the fish life gets too much to handle.
The spectacular thing is that all of this is found in the 40-to-60-foot range. Deeper dives also produce sightings of sharks and schooling bigeye jacks. The current is usually minimal here, making it a fine snorkeling site as well.
MANGROVES ABOVE & BELOW
For a very, very strange (can you say surreal) diving and snorkeling experience, try Dwarf Forest. This dive is done in a unique brackish marine area that exists between the ocean and the inner mangroves.
A trip through the mangrove forest is like a visit to another world. Whether you are diving, snorkeling or just exploring, you follow meandering channels covered by a majestic canopy of mangrove trees. Wildlife abounds. Fish swim lazily through the tea-colored water, and birds chatter in trees above.
Mangrove forests surround the island of Kosrae and are a place of beauty and solitude. The
mangroves are not quite sea and not yet land and provide important environmental benefits to the island.
Because the mangrove forest is rich with life, it is an important resource for the people of Kosrae. The trees provide timber, the channels are a protected transportation network, and their waters are a favored place to fish.
Enter the water here, and you will see looming overhead magnificent mangrove trees. Below, hard corals, odd but brilliant sponges and tunicates and silvery moon fish live among a maze of tangled roots. The dive is shallow, so one can weave carefully under the trees and within the roots to reveal a natural light show.
Kosrae offers fine dive shop facilities, equipment, training and dedicated dive resorts. Kosrae is a religious island and all businesses close on Sundays—by law. Diving is not permitted but it is OK to snorkel. This is a good day to take a hike into the pristine jungle or just read a book by the sea.
New things are happening here all the time. Surfing is a “best-kept secret” and kayaking is becoming popular. If you are looking for an out-of-the-way adventure, a place teeming with nature, this Micronesian outpost awaits. ✤
KOSRAE
30 S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
でも、白砂にもぐるエイや巨大な珊瑚礁が見えるので、ダイ
ビング初心者やシュノーケリングを楽しみたい人でも、見事
な海の世界を十分楽しめる。
ワラン・ドロップオフでは、バラエティに富んだ巨大な珊
瑚礁が素晴らしい。イバラカンザシの群れや、生き生きとし
た立派な珊瑚の陰に隠れたウツボの姿。ニシキヤッコや、
とびきりかわいらしいエンジェルフィッシュ、アケボノチョウ
チョウウオ、ハナグロチョウチョウウオ、ホホスジタルミ……
挙げればきりがないほどの珍しい熱帯魚たちに迎えられて、
夢の世界へ。もちろんお馴染みのエビやタコも登場してくれ
るはずだ。
透明度の素晴らしいこの海では、こんな豊富な海の生物
たちに、水深10～20メートル以内で出会えてしまうのだ。もっ
と深く潜ればサメや雄大なギンガメアジの群れにだって遭遇
できるはず。潮の流れはわりと弱めで、シュノーケリングスポッ
トとしても十分楽しめる。
マングローブ樹林
他ではちょっと味わえない一風変わったダイビングとシュ
ノーケリングを楽しみたい人にお勧めなのが、ドワーフ・フォ
レスト。ここは海の珊瑚とマングローブが共存している野生
生物の宝庫。 マングローブの森はどこか別世界を旅して
いるような気分にさせてくれる。ダイビングでもシュノーケリン
グでも、曲がりくねるマングローブの水路をたどれば、静か
な流れの中をのんびり泳ぐ魚たちが見え、森に響き渡る鳥
たちのさえずりが聞こえるだろう。
コスラエ島を取り囲むマングローブの森は美しさと静けさ
の象徴である。マングローブは海でもなく、陸でもなく、それ
でいて、島の環境に大きな恵みを与えている。豊かな命を
育むマングローブの森は島の人々にとっても大きな恵みと
なっている。材木源としてはもちろん、水路は大切な移動
経路であり、静かな流れは魚の宝庫となる。
水に潜れば、上に浮かぶのは雄大なマングローブ木々。
水中にはサンゴ、ホヤやギンカガミが、絡まりあった根の間
を泳ぐ。水深はどこも深くないので、自然の光が照らし出す
迷宮に迷い込まないよう注意して潜ろう。
コスラエ島には、ギアやトレーニングコースを揃えたダイビ
ングショップも充実している。コスラエは宗教の影響が強い
島なので、日曜日には店は全て閉まってしまう（法律で決め
られているそうだ）。日曜はダイビングも禁じられているが、シュ
ノーケルはOKだ。割り切って原始の森へ探検に出かける
か、ゆっくり浜辺で読書をする日にするのが賢い選択だろう。
ここでは日々新しい出来事が起こっている。実はサーフィ
ンの隠れた極上ポイントでもあるし、カヤックの人気も急上
昇中。豊かな自然の中でまだ見ぬアドベンチャーを捜し求め
るならば、ミクロネシアのこの小さな島に、答えが待っている
かもしれない。✤
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Island BeatJapan Islands–Micronesia
Island BeatJapan Islands–Micronesia
アクセス： ミクロネシア連邦へは、グアムかハワイ経由でユナイテッド航空が飛行機を出している。コスラエまでのフライトは週に2回。
時差： GMT＋11時間
電圧： 電気は110ボルト。差し込みプラグは日本と同じ形態。
通貨、両替、クレジットカード： 米ドル。FDIC(連邦預金保険公社)に保証されている銀行がいくつかある。主要なクレジットカードは、ほとんどの旅行者向け施設で利用できる。
服装： 一年中暑いため、軽装でOK。正装もとてもカジュアルなので、必要ナシ。日除けの帽子とサングラス、日焼け止めは忘れずに。
宿泊： コスラエ・ノーチラスリゾート: www.kosraenautilus.com
GETTING THERE: Travel to the FSM is available via Guam or Hawaii through United Airlines. Kosrae is serviced twice weekly. A number of airlines fly daily to Guam from Japan.
TIME: Kosrae is GMT +11 hours.
ELECTRICITY: Standard 110-volt and U.S.-type outlets are used.
Currency, Banking and Credit Cards: The U.S. dollar is the official currency. There are several U.S. FDIC insured banks operating in the FSM. Most major credit cards are welcome at most visitor-oriented businesses.
WHAT TO WEAR: Travel light. It never gets cold in FSM, so only lightweight clothing should be brought. Attire is very casual and formal wear is considered unnecessary and impractical. Hats, sunglasses and sunscreen are recommended when enjoying the sun.
HOTELS: Kosrae Nautilus Resort: www.kosraenautilus.com
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Good Eatin’食い倒れ旅行
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I t’s a frosty weekday morning in early February on the Tsushima Strait. The
wind is blowing, and the ocean swells are tossing the boat around like a rubber duck. To top it off, no matter how accurately I cast, the tuna I’m after are ignoring my plug as they feed on small pods of squid hanging at the surface.
What appears to be a 30-kilo blue fin flashes as it picks off one of the unfortunate cephalopods, and I jokingly console myself with the thought that at least I’m not in danger of being eaten alive.
We have a good four hours of fishing left before heading to port. I know the Buri (seriola quinqueradiata) will show us some love and bite our lures late in the afternoon. Meanwhile, instead of making my nerves bad trying to trick the spooky tuna into biting, I opt to curl into a ball inside the cabin and catch up on sleep.
Not too soon into my semi-slumber, my mouth starts watering, and I realize why I really came to Kyushu despite the fact I absolutely hate fishing in cold weather.
The food.One thing I like about Japanese outdoor
enthusiasts—not just anglers—is they know how to turn around any so-so to downright rotten day by adding hot springs and good eats to the equation. On lousy fishing days such as today, I can at least look forward to a bout of full-sensory culinary indulgence on a scale I can’t experience outside Japan.
When I first began running with my fishing
sempai, Yoichi Mogi, he half-jokingly and half-disparagingly told me how a lot of the guys he makes trips with will happily catch one or two fish to take home and spend the rest of the trip lounging about or engaging in lad-ish hi-jinks. “Aitsura, enkai no tame ni kuru kara, shoganai.”
“Those jackasses only come for the banquet.”
Nowadays I’m growing into the mold myself it seems.
Every fishing trip to Kyushu starts with an evening run to Hakata for motsu nabe (beef intestine hot pot) and ends with a big bowl of Hakata-style ramen. These dishes are must-haves for anyone visiting Kyushu, but what really gets our mouths watering are the meals prepared for us at the tiny island inns where we crash after fishing. To many westerners the notion seems strange, but the appeal is never knowing what you will be served, but being sure it will blow your taste buds away.
This trip we’ll gorge on a main course of wild boar sukiyaki the first night, followed by a slew of the freshest tuna, whitefish and squid sashimi the second night. For me the sight and taste of translucent slices of kawahagi sashimi and the heaping pile of uni sitting atop my ochazuke will outlive any memory of the few fish I pulled onto the boat.
My wife says, considering how much I enjoy stuffing my face, it may behoove me to forego fishing for a life of “foodie” tours.
2月初旬、凍える対馬海峡のとある朝。強い風とうねりが、ボートをおもちゃのアヒルのようにもてあそぶ。そ
の上、どんなにピッタリの場所に釣り糸を投げ込んでも、マグロたちは水面近くで泳ぐイカの群れに夢中のようで僕のルアーには見向きもしてくれなかった。目の前で30キロのク
ロマグロが不運なイカめがけて豪快に突っ込む様子を見て、あいつに生きたまま食べられないだけまだましか……と自分を慰めてみた。港に戻るまで、あと
たっぷり4時間は残っている。午後には優しいブリがルアーに食いついてくれるはず。おっかないマグロを食いつかせ
るための試行錯誤に神経をすり減らすのは止めて、それまでキャビンでひと眠り
することにした。うとうとと夢の世界に吸い込まれそうな時、ふいによだれが溢れて来た。そうだ、寒空の釣りが大嫌いな自分がわざわざ九州までやってきた理由を忘れるところだった。うまいものを食べるためだった！釣り人だけじゃなく日本のアウトドア好きは皆、イマイチ
な日も最悪だった日も、最後には温泉やうまいもので全てをチャラにする術を知っている。今日のようなひどい日だって、日本以外では絶対に体験できない、五感をフルに刺激してくれる魅惑の料理が僕を待っている。昔、僕の釣り先輩の茂木陽一さんが冗談混じりに話
してくれたことがあった。彼の釣り仲間は、おみやげ用に何匹か釣り上げたら、後はのんびり過ごすかどんちゃん騒ぎで盛りあがる。「あいつら、宴会のために来るんだから、しょうがないね」 どうやら最近の僕も、その仲間入りをしそうな気配だ。九州への釣りトリップは、いつも博多のモツ鍋に始まり、
博多ラーメンで幕を閉じる。九州に行ったならこのふたつは絶対に外せない。そしてそれよりもよだれモノなのは、釣りを終えて小さな島の民宿で出てくる夕ご飯。西洋人にとっては不思議なことかもしれないが、何が出てくるかは民宿まかせ。けれどどんなメニューでも、ご心配なく。決してあなたの舌を裏切ることはない。
僕らの今回のメニューを紹介しておこう。最初の夜はしし鍋がメインで、二泊目にはマグロ、白身魚、イカ等の新鮮な刺し盛り。透けるようなカワハギの刺身と、大盛りのウニが乗ったお茶漬けは、その日のしょぼい釣りの記憶をかき消してしまうパワーを持っていた。僕の奥さんに言わせると、完全に釣り旅行って言うより
食い倒れ旅行、だそうだ。
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Deep TurnsBy Gardner Robinson
This Hakkoda Mountains in northeastern Japan are a place of incredible beauty. Over the years locals have gained a healthy respect for these temperamental mountains, whose moods swing from gentle to terrifying on a whim. Paul Vanderheiden was drawn to the Hakkodas for the deep powder they are known for. He formed a deep connection with the mountains and the people in this far corner of Tohoku, never imagining life would take such a dramatic turn.
The story "Deep Turns" is part of a documentary series chronicling the lives of people in Tohoku affected by the events of March 11, 2011. The program will be aired on April 27 on JIBTV and NHK World.
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“D uring winter, the weather in Hakkoda is merciless. Pretty much every day is
a complete whiteout. When I was still learning how to be a guide on the mountain, my sempai (teachers) would aimlessly ride into the whiteness, or so it seemed to me. I wondered what was the matter with these people; how they knew the terrain so well was a mystery to me.
“It seemed liberating to be able to know the entire mountain in the back of your head. So I wanted to memorize the mountain as quickly as possible,” says Hiroshi Soma who runs the Hakkoda Sanso Lodge and is the Lead Guide at the Mt. Hakkoda Guide Club.
“When the sun comes out, my jaw drops at how beautiful is the scenery. But my sempai would say, 'Now is the time to study the mountain. Look and memorize.' They would always say the beautiful scenery should be appreciated, but these days are rare, so this is the time to study,” he adds.
MT. HakkoDa
The Hakkoda Mountains rise just south of Aomori City, the capital of Aomori Prefecture. The area is a natural playground for outdoor lovers throughout the year. Locals have gained a healthy respect for the Hakkodas, especially in winter when weather conditions can change in an instant.
Masamichi Kaimori knows these mountains better than just about anyone; he’s been a guide in the Hakkodas for more than four decades and has trained many of the guides on the mountain today, including Soma. He’s guided the Royal Family in these mountains for 28 years, and he and other earlier guides explored and discovered many of the trails.
“It wasn’t as difficult as you might think,” he says. “At night, while drinking, we would have a map out and draw a line with a red pencil where it looked like fun. If the weather was good, we’d go out.
“If customers we were guiding wanted to come along, we’d tell them, ‘Sorry in advance if we fail, but if we succeed you will be part of discovering a new trail.’ That’s how, day by day, we increased the number of trails. So it wasn’t actually all that tough,” he modestly states.
Back in the day most of the winter touring was done in spring, when the snow pack was more stable and there were more sunny days. In fact the Hakkoda Ropeway, which opened in 1968, didn’t start operating in winter until later. In mid-winter, day after day of seemingly bottomless snow falls on these mountains and there are few clear days. Giant trees, frozen in twisted shapes, watch over the pristine white slopes like guardians of the Hakkodas.
Certain mountains in Japan, however, carry weight within the community of skiers and snowboarders who love riding backcountry powder. Hakkoda’s location near the top of the
Tohoku region, in northeastern Honshu, means you must be dedicated to travel to this relatively remote region of the country to get your powder fix.
Yet the sheer amount of snow is unrivaled, and when the skies break after a big storm, powder junkies come with beacons packed, powder boards and fat skis in hand, waiting for the first ropeway to claim fresh lines.
The weather here can change in the blink of an eye, so it’s wise to also have a healthy respect for the mountain. It’s also prudent to go with a guide, unless you have a lot of experience in the backcountry and firsthand knowledge of the mountain.
“The main difference between Hakkoda and other mountains is the snow is not packed or groomed. There are many ski resorts in Japan, but Hakkoda is extreme. There is no mountain like it in Japan,” says Takanori Fukuchi, manager of the Hakkoda Ropeway.
“There are routes you can call proper courses but, unlike other resorts where they deforest the mountain and show you exactly where the course is, at Hakkoda there are only orange poles to help guide you to these relatively easier routes down the mountain.
The two basic courses are called Forest Course and Direct Course. Apart from these (basic courses), you can pretty much venture anywhere you want on the mountain. There are also regular touring routes but, if you are with a guide, the mountain can be limitless,” he points out.
“It seems like a ski resort, but it's not," says Soma. "No, it is not," agrees Kaimori. "If you are an avid skier at a resort, and you want to try this mountain and test the powder off the basic tour routes, the most important thing is to hire a qualified guide and follow his lead.
Unlike most resorts where they flatten the terrain, here there are naturally formed traps. There are huge tree wells you can easily fall into, the wind can create big cornices out of trees, and one can easily fall into a crevice. You don't get this kind of experience at a normal ski resort,” Kaimori adds.
The most famous example of just how merciless these mountains can be occurred on Jan. 23, 1902, when two infantry regiments of the Imperial Japanese Army set out to traverse Mt. Hakkoda. They soon became lost and disoriented in a blizzard as they desperately tried to find their way out of the mountains. This routine winter training exercise would later be known as the Hakkoda Death March claiming 199 lives with just 11 survivors.
“When the snow really gets deep, the mountain can play tricks on you. The more you try to climb, the more you are actually descending. Even if you try to cut diagonally across the mountain, the snow can be so deep you aren't able to. Instead, you gradually drop further down the valley,” Kaimori explains.
“You can only comprehend this after you have experienced it yourself. Otherwise, you will keep advancing in the wrong direction, getting more and more lost,” he states.
WesT MeeTs easT
To the east of the Hakkodas lies a small, but significant town, Misawa. In 1938 Japan built an airfield in Misawa; however, since 1945 it has been in American hands and is the only joint service base in the western Pacific, home to U.S. Army, Navy and Air Force, as well as Japan’s Self-Defense Forces.
In March of 2009 an American, Paul Vanderheiden, found himself moving here with his wife Meghan, a dentist and captain in the U.S. Air Force. The young couple had Japan on their wish list for overseas assignments and, although they were heading to one of the coldest and most isolated regions of the country, they couldn’t wait to get there.
"We were super excited when we found out we were coming to Japan. We knew Japan had really good snow, but it was the culture that drew us here. They give you a 'dream sheet' so to speak, of places you’d like to go, and Misawa was on the top of our list,” says Paul.
“We've lived in the mountains and near the beach for the past 10 years, so for us, starting a family, we really wanted to live in the country, and we like small towns, so coming to Misawa was kind of the perfect fit for us.
“As soon as I found out we were coming to Misawa, I immediately got on the Internet and started doing some research. I checked out the area, ski resorts and backcountry (mountains) and the first thing that came up in Aomori was Hakkoda. It's kind of a legendary place as far as backcountry and really deep powder, and not many people go there," he remembers.
Once they were moved into their house off-base, Meghan settled into her new job, and Paul found a part-time job at a local elementary school. Misawa is a hybrid town where inaka meets Americana. You step off the base, and you’ve got great Tex-Mex, Italian and sports bars. Head a few blocks in another direction, and there are hot springs and traditional Japanese restaurants. Go deeper into the countryside, and there is no limit to the outdoor fun to be had.
Paul felt as if he had the best of both worlds; the convenience and support of the base, while experiencing the real Japan. He began exploring the area and discovered he could surf year-round (although it is cold in winter) and snowboard six months a year at Hakkoda.
Paul soon hooked up with a local snowboarder, Eisaku Mukai, and started making more frequent trips to the mountain. It didn't take long for him
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to have his first “Hakkoda Experience,” which he describes as “having to dig yourself out of a hole, tree well or some other natural trap Mother Nature throws at you.”
During his first two seasons at Hakkoda, he discovered a tight-knit local community of backcountry enthusiasts and knowledgeable guides. He also recognized the mountain was a formidable place for foreign visitors or people from the base who didn’t have a lot of experience skiing in the backcountry.
Paul had studied snow and avalanche safety back in Arizona and Colorado and wanted to use the skills he developed to help visitors ride the Hakkoda backcountry safely.
“I decided I wanted to start Japow Tours (www.japowtours.com) because I felt there was a small niche for people coming from overseas to Hakkoda who wanted to ride a lot of powder in the least amount of time. At Hakkoda, you can get lost in two or three turns so, if you don’t go the right way, you can end up in a creek or a box canyon,” he points out.
Before he started guiding, Paul made a conscious effort to get to know and learn from the local guides at Hakkoda. Even now he usually checks in at Hakkoda Sanso Lodge before he goes on a tour to get some insight on the weather or conditions in certain areas from the guides who go out every day. He’ll also find out where the other groups are going that day, so he doesn’t take the same route.
“The other Japanese guides — such as Soma-san from the Hakkoda Guide Club — are legends; they know the mountain better than anybody, and I am basically a guest in their mountains, and I fully respect that,” he says.
“Paul comes to greet us every morning and night to say 'Yoroshiku.' That’s the kind of guy he is. As a foreigner, an American, Paul is very modest. Almost Japanese-like. He has Japanese friends, and I feel like he really fits in here. I also think he respects his surroundings and the locals," says Soma.
MarcH 11
March 11, 2011, was one of those amazing powder days at Hakkoda. Japow Tours was keeping Paul busy, but he would make a point not to schedule tours on certain days, so he could be with his friend Mukai just to ride. They rode hard all morning, tearing up the 30-40 cms. of fresh snow.
Paul headed to the parking lot to switch boards when things started shaking and people ran out of the ropeway station. He set his board against his car, but it fell over, then suddenly all the cars in the parking lot started jumping around in their spaces.
Driving back toward Misawa, they stopped at the first convenience store and saw the line was out the door; people were taking everything off
the shelves. That’s when he knew something was really wrong. Power was out at their house for a while, so it wasn’t until two or three days later, when they were able to get some Internet access, when they realized the magnitude of the disaster.
While the Tohoku area they had grown to love was being broadcast into living rooms around the globe, Paul and Meghan faced some tough decisions. Their son Christian was just 20 days shy of his first birthday when the earthquake hit. He would take his first steps the day after. Meghan had to stay in Misawa for her job, but Paul and Christian had the option of being evacuated to the U.S. The family needed to decide whether to split up or stay together in Misawa.
“We chose to stay as a family. We really felt safe staying here, especially in the area of Tohoku where we were, and we wanted to help with the Japanese community as much as we could,” Paul says.
Meghan added, “We just decided as a family we wanted to stay together, we did feel safe, and we wanted to help with the humanitarian effort. There were a lot of places within a 15-minute drive really hard hit, and we wanted to help rebuild.”
“I felt 100 percent safe and 100 percent comfortable with our decision,” she says. “We were very well connected. The base was constantly updating us; multiple times a day, on the status of the water testing they were doing. They were doing air testing, testing all the planes coming in and going out, and they would inform the community on what they found.
“But, I think one of the hardest things was watching people in the community struggle with resources; gas, kerosene…because we were provided al lot of that on the base.”
rebuilDing
The base was organizing and running several missions a day. According to Meghan they would go as far south as Noda nearly every day.
“One time we went to the Hachinohe seaport where there were huge tankers overturned. The entire seaport section was just devastated. There was muck, huge mud piles waist-deep, fish parts, and the fishing wire and nets were all over everything, so you had to pull that out,” said Paul.
“On another outing to help with the cleanup in the tsunami-hit areas, we went to a town just 10 minutes from Misawa, called Oirase, right along the coast. They had a bunch of strawberry fields and strawberry farms,” he says.
“It was just a local farmer, and he didn’t have a very big plot of land, but what he had was completely leveled,” Meghan adds.
“Basically we tore down the green houses and ripped it up so they could replant the strawberries. It probably would have taken them two weeks of
work that we did in eight hours. You know, I think there were 30,000-40,000 man-hours of volunteer work done within a 100-mile radius of Misawa,” Paul states.
Moving ForWarD
A few months after the disaster, although rebuilding efforts were far from over, it was time to look to the future. People needed to go back to doing what they loved so they could move forward. For Paul that meant getting back to the mountain.
“We were like, we gotta move forward and do something for ourselves, because you just get so stressed out thinking about all the bad things that can happen, and not all the good things that you have right here on our doorstep.
“The first day I went snowboarding was so good for me. My morale after just one day snowboarding kept me going for another week after that,” Paul beams.
“Both the American military and the local Japanese community in Misawa really tried hard to return to normalcy. They went on with festivals as planned. I think it really was good for the morale of everyone.
“I think this last year, I mean, anytime a big tragedy happens, it makes life that much sweeter. It really makes you appreciate the good days, and makes the bad days seem not so bad,” says Meghan
Nature is a real part of life in Japan. Typhoons and earthquakes, even volcanoes, occur regularly. The colorful seasons are celebrated vigorously and often. Nature in all its beautiful and terrifying forms has contributed to making the country and the people so strong.
This past winter has been one of the best snow years in recent memory. Paul’s overseas customers have left Tohoku satisfied, having gotten their fill of Hakkoda powder and the many refreshing hot springs in the area.
“Just being able to be up here and share this mountain with the Japanese locals, and show foreigners around has been a really cool experience. You know this is the real Japan, this is the countryside, the traditions; it’s a pretty special place,“ Paul affirms.
It’s been a year since the disaster and although winter stubbornly clings on, it’s a new spring in the Hakkodas. The relentless storms begin to subside, making way for more sunny days ahead.
“What I still love about Hakkoda is that the base of the mountain is very gentle,” says Kaimori. “It feels like the mountain wraps around your body. I feel a sense of relief when I enter. When I am stressed I go into the bamboo forest where no one else would come and lay face down on the ground. I spend about an hour doing nothing and, before I know it, all the confusion in my head goes away. That’s what kind of mountain it is.” ✤
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JIBTV PRESENTS THE DOCUMENTARY SERIES ‘FORWARD’ The earthquake and tsunami on March 11, 2011, caused tremendous damage across a
wide area of eastern Japan. The nuclear power plant meltdown made the situation even worse. People around the world were horrified by the aftermath but also inspired by the survivors’ quiet courage.
The “FORWARD” documentary series demonstrates the determination to recover from the devastation. “DEEP TURNS” was produced by Cipher Communications, SET Japan and Outdoor Japan Media. For program schedule and live streaming, please visit the JIBTV and NHK WORLD Web sites.
FORWARD: DEEP TURNS
On Air Date: April 27 (Friday)On Air Time (JST): 1:30 a.m., 5:30 a.m., 9:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m., 5:30 p.m. and 9:30 p.m.JIBTV: www.jibtv.com/special/forward/en.htmlNHK World: www3.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/
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このルートは庄川と長良川という二本の川を結ぶというシンプルなもの。しかしその単純な道をたどっ
て日本海側から太平洋側へ抜けると、風景は大きく変化する。総距離は約280㎞。途中には、合掌造りで知られ、世界遺産にもなっている白川郷や五箇山村、そして郡上八幡や美濃など、魅力的な町も数多い。そんな町で泊まりながら、本州の分水嶺を越え、開けた濃尾平野を目指そう。
Cycling Japan: A JOURNEY TO EXPERIENCETHE LOCAL LIFE サイクリング—それは
土地の暮らしを感じる旅
By Takashi NiwaTranslated by Sakae Sugahara
Takashi Niwa’s Yamamichi Adventure company has been renamed Niwa Cycling Tours (www.ncycling.com). He offers many bike tours, both domestic and overseas. For other routes in Japan, please pick up a copy of “CYCLING JAPAN: 10 of the Best Rides, Vol. 1 by Takashi Niwa,” at bookshops around Japan and various online stores.
丹羽隆志（にわ たかし） 2011年1月より“やまみちアドベンチャー”改め“にわサイクリングツアー”（www.ncycling.com）として国内外の各地をガイドする。国内のコースについては『丹羽隆志の日本ベストサイクリングコース10 vol.1』を参照してほしい。
T his cycling route is quite easy to follow as it basically connects two rivers –
the Sho-gawa in Toyama Prefecture and Gifu’s Nagara-gawa. Despite such simplicity, the scenery along the 280-kilometer route changes dramatically as you depart the Japan Sea side of Japan and head toward the Pacific Ocean.
Enjoy pedaling past many attractive historic towns and v il lages, including Shirakawa-go and Gokayama, an area that is one of Japan’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, as well as the nicely preserved cities of Gujo Hachiman and Mino.
Take your time; spend a night or two while you discover each of their charms
TOYAMA
NAGANO
GIFU
AICHISHIZUOKA
SHIGA
ISHIKAWA
GOAL!
START!
Pedaling Across the Chubu RegionFrom Toyoma Bay to Ise Bay中部縦断 富山湾から伊勢湾へ
for yourself. Then, once you cross over the ridge that divides the two sides of Honshu, simply descend into the Nobi Heiya, a vast plain that stretches from southwest Gifu all the way to northwest Aichi Prefecture, as you arrive at Ise Bay.
Back in the saddle after a night at a minshuku in Shirakawa-go.白川郷の合掌造りの民宿に泊まって、走り出す。
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#15R O U T E
By Bryan Harrell
Brimmer Brewing ブリマー・ブルーイング（株）
4-27-14 Kuji, Takatsu-ku, Kawasaki City, Kanagawa 213-0032 〒213 - 0 0 32 神奈川県川崎市高津区久地4 -27-14 Phone: (044) 281-0541 Web: www.brimmerbrewing.com
Brimmer Brewing ブリマー・ブルーイング
Kawasaki, Kanagawa 神奈川県川崎市
今頃、スコット・ブリマーが最初に仕込んだビールがいよいよ出来上がっていることだろう。ビールが造
られているのは、東京と横浜の間にある神奈川県川崎市。二つの大都市で自分の手作りビールが試されることになるのだから、絶好のロケーションだ。スコットのようなプロのビール醸造者の存在は、間違いなく日本のビール品質を更に高めてくれるわけでこれからが楽しみだ。スコットがビール作りを学び始めたのは、カリフォルニアの北にあるシエラネヴァダ醸造所。醸造責任者を努めた4年半を含めて9年間をここで過ごす。その後、妻の母国日本へ渡り、御殿場高原ビールで醸造に携わった。 御殿場高原ビールでは、主要商品とは異なるエール
を特別に作った。それらの全てが、香り高くバランスのよいビールだったことを私は覚えている。
2011年春、自身の醸造所を開設して以来、幸運にも全てを小規模のまま続けることが出来ている。ペールエール、ゴールデンエール、ポーターが主なビール。このほか一年を通して様々な限定ビールを作っている。どれも330-mlのボトル入りで価格は未定。アルコール度数は5.5%。パブやその他の店舗では樽で提供する。
4月には醸造所ツアーも予定している。醸造設備を見学して、ビールがどうやってできるのかを見てもらうのだ。川崎と立川を結ぶ南武線久地駅から徒歩7分。サンプルを試飲できるコーナーはあるが、パブやレストランはない。 スコットは、ビール造りを一つの職人技として考えてお
り、誰もが美味しいと思える手作りのプレミアムビールを造ることにすべてをかけている。
As I write this, Scott Brimmer is finish-ing up his first batch of beer in his new brewery, located in suburban Kawasaki City, wedged in between Tokyo and Yo-kohama in Kanagawa Prefecture. The location is ideal, allowing Scott to sup-ply his hand-crafted ales to the massive markets of both cities. For me, the devel-opment is exciting, as the presence of a sea-soned brewing pro such as Scott is cer-tain to further raise the bar on qua l ity craft beer in Japan.
Scott got his start a s a p r o f e s s i o n a l b r e w e r a t S i e r r a Nevada Brewing in northern California where he worked for nine years, and as a brewer during his last four and a half years there. He then moved to Japan, where his wife is from, and worked as a brewer for five years at Gotemba Kogen Beer.
While he was there, he brewed a num-ber of special ales that were quite differ-ent from the brewery’s main commercial products, and I recall all of them to have been very clean, well-balanced and high-ly flavorful.
In the spring of 2011, Scott began
work on opening this brewery and for-tunately has kept everything on a com-paratively small scale. There are three main beers – Pale Ale, Golden Ale and Porter – along with a specialty beer that changes throughout the year. All beers are in 330-ml. bottles, and though prices have not been decided yet, all are listed
at 5.5% alcohol. All beers w i l l a lso be available in kegs for pubs and other com-mercial accounts.
Scott plans to be-gin offering brewery tours in April, when p e o p l e c a n c o m e and see the brewing equipment and learn how the beers a re made. The brewery is a short seven-minute walk from Kuji Station
on the Nambu Line which runs between Kawasaki and Tachikawa. While there is a small area where beer can be sampled and enjoyed, the facility is without a pub or restaurant.
Scott believes craft beer is all about craftsmanship and dedicates his efforts to producing handcrafted premium beers that can be enjoyed and appreci-ated by everyone.
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Episode 9:A winter ode to l’eau chaude
お湯のウィンターソング
お湯は良い。本当に良いものだ。ただ、それは家のあのスリッパに感じる心地よさや、好きなの
に罪悪感を感じてしまうグレービーがけのポテトチップへの感情ともまた違う。ナタリー・ポートマンが笑う時に見せる独特な唇の動きへの熱い愛のように、情熱的にハートをワシづかみにされているのだ。ああ、愛しのお湯様。あえてフランス語で呼ばせてほしい。l’eau chaude、なんて魅惑的な響きだろう。お湯の用途は実にさまざまだ。冬の朝にフロントガラ
スの氷を融かしたり、ゼラチンを固めたり、手術器具の熱湯消毒にも活躍する。日本のトイレでビデボタンを押したなら、人生を変える出会いが待っている。実に頼も
しくミステリアスな存在なのだ。お湯こそは猿人と現代人を分かつものであり、蛇口をひねれば出てくるお湯の流れは、祖先の自然への挑戦とその恩恵の証なのだ。冬のゲレンデで一日を過ごした後のお湯は、ただ
のお湯とはひと味違う。体が温まっている時だって足を浸ければ気持ち良い。それを、6時間も氷点下のスキーブーツの中で冷え切った足を温泉に浸したりしたら、“気持ち良い”はもはや狂喜に変わる。さすがのナタリー・ポートマンの笑顔も敵わない。テーブルに頭を打ち付け、叫び声をあげて、お祭り騒ぎをしたくなる、そんな快感。この冬、あなたも是非l’eau chaudeとの魅惑のロマンスに溺れてみては。
H ot water is good. I love it. But not like that comfortable, homey love affair I have with
my slippers. And not like that sneaky, guilty love I feel for hot chips with gravy. I’m talking real slappin’-your-pants hot, hot love. Like my love for Natalie Portman and that funny thing she does with her lip when she smiles. Ah, l’eau chaude, it even sounds better in French.
Hot water has many practical uses as well. You can use it to clear ice off your windshield on a winter morning or sterilize your surgical instruments. Put it in jelly crystals, and it goes hard. It is efficacious and mysterious and, if you take the bidet option on the Japanese toilet, your world will change forever. Hot water is
what separates us from other hominids. Turn on the tap, and there it is. It is a testament to our ancestors’ struggle against nature, and we reap the rewards.
But in winter after a day on the slopes, the majesty of hot water is taken to an even higher plane. Stick a room temperature, warm toe in hot water and it feels pleasant. Stick a foot that has been wedged in a ski boot for six hours in sub-zero temperatures, and joy turns to rapture. It is better than that Natalie Portman smile. It is banging on the table, hooting, tooting ecstasy. So, do yourself a favor this spring and reignite your romance with l’eau chaude.
NAKEDSTRANGER
THE
Save water,share a bath.
一緒にお風呂で、水を節約
T A L E S F R O M T H E B A T H
ハダカの異国人
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THE BARE ESSENTIALS
Address （所在地）: Oaza Ichiyama Aza Kawaoshi 1898 Iiyama-shi, Nagano 長野県飯山市大字一山字川押1898
Cost （料金）: ¥400 (adults)
Tel: (0269) 65-3454
Web: www.yutakionsen.net
The Upside （長所）: The rotenburo is beautifully designed. The onsen water cascades four feet down a stone wall to the bath through ornate timber work that would be of interest to anyone with an appreciation of traditional carpentry techniques. Watch the river flow slowly by from the rotenburo.
露天風呂が素晴らしい。温泉が滝となってお風呂の岩盤に流れ落ち、周囲には木工の技が施されている。日本の伝統的な大工仕事に興味がある人には面白いだろう。露店風呂からは千曲川のゆったりとした流れが望める。
The Downside （短所）: It is difficult to access without a car.
車がないとアクセスが難しい。
The Bare Facts （温泉）: •• Yutaki Onsen sits beside the Chikuma River, the longest river in Japan. It is a quick 10-minute drive down the hill from Nozawa Onsen and a nice change from the many free onsen in the village.•• Yutaki was a popular place during the Edo
Yutaki Onsen, Nozawa Onsen, Nagano / 湯滝温泉：長野県野沢温泉Rating: ♨ ♨ ♨ ♨ ♨
Period, but the 1849 earthquake in Nagano caused the water to stop flowing in the area. Luckily, it was re-established in 1987 at the current location.
• 湯滝温泉は日本最長の川、千曲川のほとりにある。野沢温泉から車で約10分下ったところで、野沢温泉村に点在する無料温泉とはまた違った趣が楽しめる。
• 湯滝は江戸時代から栄える温泉宿場だったが、1849年の地震で温泉が止まってしまった。その後の1987年に今の場所に再建された。
Food （食事）: Sasazushi (vegetarian sushi in bamboo leaf) is a specialty of the Iiyama area.
笹寿司（竹の葉を使った寿司）が飯山地方の名物。
Nearby Attractions （観光スポット）: Nozawa Onsen ski area, Togari Onsen ski area and Oku-shinano or “Little Kyoto.”
野沢温泉スキー場、戸狩温泉スキー場、そして“小京都”奥信濃。
Access （アクセス）: Take the Joshinetsu Expressway toward Iiyama and then the Toyoda-Iiyama exit, then onto Rt. 117 toward Yutaki Onsen. It’s about 20 minutes by car from Iiyama Station or 10 minutes from Nozawa Onsen.
上信越自動車道で豊田・飯山ICを降りてから国道117号で湯滝温泉へ。
車で飯山駅から20分、野沢温泉からは10分。
乗り換えて、40分で妙高高原駅。車なら、上信越道で妙高高原I.C.へ。
Discover Japan your own way - with aself-guided walking trip along the historicNakasendo or Kumano Kodo trails!
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Local inns with excellent regional cuisine
WALKING TRAILS
ACCOMMODATION
MAPS & DIRECTIONS
Off-the-beaten-track Japan
Evocative village-to-village walking
Detailed route maps and step-by-step directions
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A New Zealander takes up the challenge to run 4,100 kilometers (the length of Japan), averaging 50 kilometers a day, to raise donations and awareness for Tohoku and bring smiles to people’s faces along the way.
PROFILEName: Justyn “Jup” Brown
Age: 39 Nationality: New Zealand
Blog: http://jupbrown.wordpress.comWeb: www.jupbrown.com
ACTION
Hasse Trike
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(S)miling日本What: Running approximately 4,100 kilometers (the length of Japan) from Okinawa to Hokkaido. When: April to Early July 2012How can you help? Support Jup by donating on his site and/or getting out there and joining him on the road! A detailed schedule and route map is online at http://jupbrown.wordpress.com/59-2/
I n April 2012, Jup Brown embarks on a 4,100-kilometer journey to run the entire
lengthy of Japan from Okinawa to Wakkanai in northern Hokkaido to raise money to rebuild schools and the communities in Tohoku affected by the 2011 earthquake and tsunami.
It would take a world-class endurance athlete to complete such a challenge, or so you might think.
“Actually, I’m just a plumber from Wanaka, an average Kiwi looking to achieve a goal, for a worthy cause, and have some fun along the way,” says the 39-year-old Brown, who moonlights as a Japanese translator and a ski/snowboard course designer.
Although he’s traveled the world over the last two decades, he’s spent a lot of time in Japan and the country is close to is heart.
“I love Japan. When I ’m asked why, I don’t know, it’s the people, the food and the countryside. I’m always really happy when I’m in Japan. I’m not sure why, but I am.”
Jup has lived in Japan on and off for the past 19 years. Other than a year and a half living in Niseko, Hokkaido, most of his time has been spent in Tohoku, particularly Fukushima.
He was never big into running. He did it training for sports and staying in shape, but he hadn’t run a full marathon until 2006, “on a flat Gold Coast course in Australia,” he points out.
While working at a ski resort in Inawashiro, Fukushima, where he’s spent many winters, he realized a 100K ultra marathon started right outside his door. He joined the race in 2010, finishing in 12 hours and 20 minutes.
“It was such an awesome feeling to finish that first ultra marathon. After that I thought, ‘I could run even longer,’ and I loved the ultra running culture, the people were having a lot of fun.”
In 2011 Jup met a guy in New Zealand named Nick Chisholm who had suffered a stroke and was confined to a wheel chair. Jup wanted to help him rehab and fulfill his dream of riding a Hase trike (a three-wheeled mountain bike).
“Nick showed me a picture of the bike and his eyes just lit up. I knew how happy it would make him, so I created a charity event, telling 1,000 people I’d run 100K on a treadmill at a gym if they would donate to help Nick get his new wheels,” he says.
It took Jup one week, 12 hours and 12 minutes of running to complete the 100 kilometers, but he did it and raised AUD $30,000 to get Nick two three-wheeled Hasse trikes and a bit of extra pocket money if he ever needed it.
“It was so amazing to watch so many people
who didn’t know me come together and support me, and help a guy in a wheelchair who they also didn't know; I loved every minute of the running and then giving the bikes to Nick,” Jup declares.
A week after finishing the run for Nick, Jup headed off to Nepal for his next challenge — the Tenzing Hillary Everest Marathon — a 42-kilometer race starting at 5,335 meters and finishing at 3,400 meters.
He then flew back to Japan and ran in the 100K Ginga Ultra in Iwate, a race started to help support the tsunami-affected areas in Japan.
He wasn’t done there. Once back in New Zealand he decided to organize a charity run to raise money for the New Zealand Stroke Foundation, which he learned about through Nick. This time he would run the length of New Zealand, from south to north. He averaged 50 kilometers a day for 67 days while taking just seven days off to rest. Nick was able to join him on his bike for a couple of days as well.
Jup wasn’t sure he would make it, but with the encouragement of the people who joined him for parts of the run, he did. This is where the idea of running across another island country was born.
Jup is calling his challenge “(S)miling 日本, ” the “S” standing for “smile” and the “miling” for running many miles in Japan.
He will start far south in Okinawa, then cover 4,100 kilometers over 95 days, reaching northern Hokkaido, before finishing up in Tohoku. He plans again to average 50 kilometers a day, while taking one day off every 10 days to recharge; he also plans to spend 4-5 days volunteering in Tohoku along the way.
He will take a detour from his cross-country run to join the Ginga Ultra Marathon once again on June 10 while in Tohoku. There is talk of some special guests joining him at the race and some points along the way, and he encourages anyone to join him for a run, walk or cycle during the run — or just to come out and say, “Gambatte!” He speaks Japanese, so locals needn’t worry about communication. He will stop by schools along the way, spreading encouragement and sharing the message that Japan still needs support.
“One thing I like to tell people is that I’m not some professional athlete,” Jup says. “I’m just a normal guy out there running. I’m a traveler looking for an adventure or two and to have as much fun as I can every day — while trying to bring some smiles to people’s faces and help people along the way.”
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The guys behind the “Diaries Down Under” series, led by presenter Nick Hyne, spent a good part of this epic winter shooting and riding some of Japan’s best mountains for their new project, Japan Journals. Nick took some time to look back on the season that was and, for spring skiers, continues to be.
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Winter 2012Looking Back
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What was the highlight for you this winter in Japan?
I am going to go with the obvious
answer - the powder! Seemed like
everywhere in Japan had a really
good winter this year. The snow we
got up in Hokkaido was as good as
it gets.
What were some of the challenges the crew faced?
It was always going to be a
mission with six people in the crew
and only one person filming all
the riders. It was hard at times but
we adapted to each situation and it
ended up being the best trip I have
ever been on.
We are all really close friends so
it was never going to be too much
of a chore hanging out and riding
the world's best snow together.
Having a small budget made for
a few challenges as well. We didn't
have a car at the start of the trip but
Rhythm Snowsports in Niseko Hirafu
sponsored us, providing a van for
the rest of the Hokkaido leg. This let
us explore a little more and made
shopping, pick ups, onsen trips and
every day filming requirement crap
a lot easier.
How many episodes did you guys shoot?
We shot four episodes of Japan
Journals. The first episode came out
near the start of February and the
4th is due for release at the end of
March. Having four episodes was good
because it allowed us to travel to
different areas and have a theme for
each episode that made up the series.
Traveling to these different snow areas in Japan, what made each area interesting or different?
Yeah, we were based in Niseko
for the bulk of the trip. Niseko is
a really good spot as the snowfall
is so consistent. It gets about 14
meters of snow a year. Nearly every
day in January and February was a
powder day. We did a road trip up
to Asahidake, which was probably the
highlight of the trip for us. It was
pretty much a blizzard every day but
we got into the roadside trees and
rode some of the lightest, deepest
snow we have ever encountered.
Check out Episode 3 for the
evidence!
For Episode 4 we mixed things
up a little and focused on traveling
within the main island of Japan.
We got some good conditions in
Hakuba and Niigata and saw the
snow monkeys in their hot springs in
Jigokudani.
Any crazy stories or moments you can share with us?
Surprisingly, things stayed
relatively tame this trip. On the road
trip back from Asahidake to Niseko
the highway was closed so it took
us about 8 or 9 hours to get back.
We found a massive bottle of Sake
under the seat and things got a
little rowdy. We had a loose night of
karaoke in Tokyo too!
How easy it is for snow lovers to find good snow conditions when they come to Japan?
It always shocks me how easy it
is to get good snow in Japan. You
don't need a snowmobile or any
crazy hiking equipment necessarily,
you can get amazing powder right at
the resorts.
What’s the main difference between southern hemisphere snow conditions and what you find in Japan?
The amount of snowfall is
probably the biggest difference.
The climate is a lot milder in New
Zealand than Japan. The winters
aren't quite as brutal and the
summers aren't so hot. Because of
this, the only place we have resorts
is up in the alpine regions where
there aren't any trees. This means
the fresh snow we get is a lot more
exposed to the elements, not like
Japan where there are always stashes
in the trees and valleys.
Will we see Japan Journals again next season?
Yep, we will be here hunting the
best snow once again! ✤
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Japan JournalsVimeo: http://vimeo.com/38305108Facebook: www.facebook.com/JapanJournals
Diaries Down UnderWeb: www.diariesdownunder.com
See ya nex
t winter!
54 S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
Bill RossDirector & Guide, Dancing Snow (Myoko, Niigata)www.dancingsnow.com
“I have used Mammut’s Pulse Barryvox for a while now, after using a variety of transceivers from the good old days of analogue devices. It’s just great—I used it during avalanche training, and literally found a target in a great big field in less than 30 seconds. Much easier and intuitive than in the past.
The Pulse does take a little study to know all the functions, so I was really pleased to have the chance to try out the Element with our guests. Its simplicity doesn’t mean it is a dumbed-down version. Rather, in quick pre-tour briefings with guests I felt that they understood the idea behind it, how it functions, and what to do if something did happen. Makes me feel safer, because I’m the first one to ski! And the reasonable price is also a real benefit for people who are already investing a lot in backcountry gear.
About MyokoThe area around Mt. Myoko has a wide range
of backcountry terrain, ideal for everyone from experienced skiers and boarders to those leaving the groomed runs and “sidecountry” for the first time. It’s serious snow country, though, so a transceiver is a requirement.
Dancing Snow Customer Feedback“The unit is very compact, and the straps keep it close to your body and out of the way. You’re not really aware that you have it on while you’re on the hill.”
“It’s really easy to figure out which way to search. All you have to do is follow the arrows and watch the distance figures go down.”
“I liked the way the display shows how many beacons are out there when you switch to search, and the way you can mark victims so the transceiver stops receiving from that person, and you can move on to the next.”
“It was my first time to use a transceiver, and it was very easy to understand how to use it. The switches and dials are also simple and clearly marked. I liked the fact that it was hard to accidently turn it off!’
“I’ve used other transceivers that are not as natural to switch from transmit to receive, or harder to use in an actual search. Very fast and accurate.”
Paul VanderheidenOwner, Japow Tours (Hakkoda, Aomori)www.japowtours.com
“The Mammut Element is a three- antenna transceiver, which make it much faster than other beacon searches on the market. I have been using different beacons for years and have tried many companies but Mammut has made great strides in the design and simplicity of their New Mammut Element. As a Guide I feel much safer knowing that the people in my group have a quality product and they are confident in using it even if it's their first time with the Transceiver. Thank you Mammut for making such an amazing life saving device.”
About HakkodaTohoku’s Mt. Hakkoda is a backcountry
playground attracting advanced skiers and snowboarders. A beacon is standard equipment for exploring these serious mountains, as is a knowledgeable guide.
Japow Tours Customers Feedback“The Mammut Element Barryvox transceiver is incredibly intuitive and even tells you to turn around if you are going the wrong direction with a simple U-Turn symbol” “The simple on and off switch locks into place making each function secure and one confidant that he or she is sending or receiving the proper signal.” “The harness and housing of the Mammut Element Barryvox is actually quite comfortable and allows for easy access the to transceiver itself.” “As an avid backcountry snowboarder the “Mutual burials function” is essential when traveling with larger groups.” “When practicing with The Mammut Element Barryvox vs. my friends' BCA Tracker the Element was picking up a signal and tracking at least 10 meters before the BCA Tracker. When doing a speed search in the practice field, the Element Barryvox won every time.” “The Mammut Element Barryvox 3 antenna system works faster and more fluid than other beacons I have had in the past, by far the best and easiest transceiver I have ever used.”
There is only one way to go into Japan’s backcountry – safely, and with the right equipment and knowledge. Mammut’s Barryvox Element beacon was created to be easy to use and affordable for new backcountry enthusiasts without sacrificing functionality. Two veteran backcountry guides in Japan share their impressions after using the Barryvox Element beacon with their customers this season.
MAMMuT MONiTOR & TRiAl PROGRAM
Element Barryvox Beacon
Pulse Barryvox Beacon
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SEASON
SEASON
SEASON
SEASON
SHIKOKU CANYONSKochi www.happyraft.com
TONE RIVERGunma www.canyons.jp
KUSATSU CANYONSGunma www.canyons.jp
ARAKAWA RIVER Saitama www.outdoorjapan.com/travel/operator_details/28 www.outdoornagatoro.com
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Shikoku, the oft-forgotten island, is home to some of Japan’s best canyoning. The warm climate, steep, rugged mountains and abundance of clear, fresh water make for a great canyoning destination. Here you can get away from the crowds and enjoy some of Japan’s most pristine nature. This is the real deal with 40-meter waterfall descents and big waterslides.
The Tone River runs through Minakami, the hot spring town in northwest Gunma that has become Honshu’s adventure Mecca. The imposing Mt. Tanigawa is the backdrop for the white water tours. The river’s three canyons—the Momiji, Minakami and Suwa— feature the most excitement and, when Momiji is at high water, it is truly world-class. In summer, water levels are low and perfect for family outings.
Kusatsu is one of the most famous onsen areas in Japan, and the thermal activity that feeds the natural hot springs, as well as the volcanic rock, creates some truly unique canyoning courses. Here you can explore Dear Canyon, one of Japan’s highest vertical courses, as well as the depths of Poison Canyon, one of the only hot spring canyoning courses in the world.
The Village of Nagatoro is halfway up the Arakawa River from Tokyo in northwest Saitama. Here there are some interesting rock formations along five kilometers of the river that have been designated a national natural monument. The deep waters make for a gentle ride with some Grade 2 rapids in this scenic area.
WHITE WATER RAFTING
CANYONING
EvEry sEason a nEw advEnturEsPrInG aCtIvIty GuIdE
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SEASON
SEASON
SEASON
SHIMANAMI KAIDOHiroshima and Ehime http://ncycling01.sblo.jp/article/42313367.htmlwww.go-shimanami.jp
TOKYO CITY RIDES Tokyo www.tokyocycling.jp
TROPICAL CYCLING Okinawa http://ncycling01.sblo.jp/article/42313367.html
NOTO PENINSULA Ishikawa http://ncycling01.sblo.jp/article/42313367.html
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After an epic winter, spring skiing will be open at many resorts through Golden Week. The big snowmelt feeds lakes and rivers for great paddling, and pleasant temperatures make the season a great time for some outdoor fun. Chase the cherry blossoms north and enjoy spring in Japan!
The Nishi-Seto Expressway, aka Shimanami Kaido, is a motorway linking the islands of Honshu and Shikoku via a number of bridges. Except one, all the bridges have bike lanes, which makes hopping from island to island across the Seto Inland Sea, a breeze. You’ll be awe-struck as you peer down from a soaring bridge to dormant fishing villages below.
The megalopolis of Tokyo is an outdoor playground for cyclists. Feel the energy of the city as you cruise spacious urban parks or busy waterfronts, then suddenly turn into a maze of back streets and residential areas. Surprisingly, Tokyo is dotted with pockets of lush greenery, which gives the city a different face each season. You may bump into a sumo wrestler or discover a new favorite café.
When it comes to cycling in Japan, the sparkling blue sea of Okinawa is not to be missed. The road stretches through sugarcane fields into the horizon of endless water where blue sky meets turquoise water. There are no mountains or large forests that hinder your view. Touring Miyakojima and its neighboring islands, you’ll feel truly liberated.
Noto is a time capsule taking you back to old Japan. In addition to the well-preserved city of Kanazawa, or Wajima, famous for its urushi lacquer ware and asa-ichi morning market, you’ll find old village houses with black kawara tiles on the top and wood shingles on the side. It will seem as if the clock has turned back a few centuries. With no tourist coaches on its narrow roads, you start to wonder what else will appear around the next corner from years past.
CYCLING
EvEry sEason a nEw advEnturE
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SEASON
SEASON
SEASON
SEASON
FOREST ADVENTURESHakone and Odawara www.foret-aventure.jp
LAKE NARAMATAGunma www.ilovecanoe.jp
BUNGY JUMPINGGunma www.bungyjapan.com
LAKE AOKI Nagano www.evergreen-hakuba.com
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Japan’s forests are a great escape from the hectic pace of city life. Forest Adventures runs a number of parks that get you off the ground and into the trees, featuring rope swings, rope bridges, net climbs, tree ladders and zip lines that are challenging but safe for all ages to climb, swing and step across. The Odawara and Hakone parks are great for day trips from Tokyo.
Minakami is best known for white water and hot water (onsen) but still waters also run deep in the Minakami area, and one way to enjoy a relaxing spring afternoon is floating in a canoe or kayak in one of the many lakes in the area. Guests can paddle the crystal clear waters while monkeys and kamoshika (a Japanese serow) walk the shores of the lake.
Adding to Minakami’s reputation for outdoor adventure sports is Japan’s only bridge bungy jump. The 42-meter bridge spans the Tone River and features spectacular views of the Tanigawa range. But if you are brave enough to step out on the platform and take the ultimate leap of faith, you’ll be more focused on what’s below. It’s a personal challenge you’ll enjoy and an experience you’ll never forget. The bridge opens Apr. 20.
Just a short drive from Hakuba, the clear waters of Lake Aoki are fed by the snowmelt of the surrounding mountains. In spring cherry blossoms are abundant and the area is teeming with wildlife. The best way to explore the lake is a gentle paddle in a Canadian Canoe. Take it slow and enjoy the views.
CANOEING
ADVENTURE
EvEry sEason a nEw advEnturEsPrInG aCtIvIty GuIdE
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SEASON
SEASON
SEASON
SEASON
NIIJIMA ISLANDTokyo www.outdoorjapan.com/surf
OGASAWARA ISLANDSTokyowww.ogasawaramura.com/englishpage.htm www.tourism.metro.tokyo.jp
ONJUKU BEACHChiba www.kanaloa7.tv/teal/
WRECK OF THE USS EMMONS Okinawa www.piranha-divers.jp
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Surf in Tokyo? Tokyo’s hidden gem is Niijima Island where there are a variety of good waves with breaks that can handle everything from easterly, northeasterly, southeasterly, westerly and southwesterly swells. The eastern coast is a long white sand beach break that gets some powerful tubes. The west has some popular spots but not as much swell. And don’t miss the island’s natural outdoor hot spring.
The seasonal diving here is rich and varied, offering screaming drift snorkels over fields of table corals, snorkeling excursions with bottlenose dolphins and a chance to see breaching humpback whales. Huge, schooling tuna, solitary ragged tooth sharks and barnacled sea turtles come to the surrounding reefs of Chichijima and Mukojima, making undersea scenery even more exciting for divers.
Escape from Tokyo and learn to surf from a two-time Japan champion. When not competing on tour, or paddleboard fishing, reigning Longboard Surfing champion Eugene Teal runs a surf school and clubhouse on Onjuku Beach in Chiba. The huge beach gets good waves and is a great place for beginners to learn. Come for the day or stay at the clubhouse, just a short walk to the beach.
The USS Emmons was a minesweeper in the battle of Okinawa that was sunk from a massive kamikaze attack on April 6, 1945. It’s the only wreck in the area accessible at a depth of 36-45 meters, yet it wasn’t discovered until February of 2001. She is in very good shape, with many details clearly visible, since relatively few divers have yet visited her.
SCUBA DIVING
SURFING
EvEry sEason a nEw advEnturE
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OJ CLASSiFiEDS■ HOKKAiDO ■ TOHOKu ■ SHINETSU • HOKURIKU ■ CHUBU • TOKAI ■ KANTO ■ KANSAi
www.htholidays.com
Niseko’sFinest
■ HOKKAiDO
■ HOKKAiDO
www.japan-adventures.com
Japan Adventures
Your Japan
Hiking Specialists
■ HOKKAiDO
■ HOKKAiDO
■ AOMORi
Japow Tours is a rider driven guide company
with a unique approach to off trail & backcountry
snowboarding in the Hakkoda Mountains.
八甲田山
■ HOKKAiDO
■ HOKKAiDO
■ HOKKAiDO
■ HOKKAiDO
60 S P R I N G 2 0 1 2
■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU ■ KYUSHU • OKINAWA ■ OuTSiDE JApAN ■ GEAR & SERviCES Lifestyle Directory
inaka home
[DOTGREEN
AWARDSwww.GreenDotAwards . com
W I N N E Rof ]
■ NAGANO
www.hakubaresort.com
Summer IN
HAKUBA
Hakuba Office : TEL(81) 0261 72 [email protected]
- Exclusive range of luxury cabins, chalets and apartments- Great range of summer activitives- Car and bike rentals arranged
Escape the City Heat
■ NAGANO■ IWATE
Website : http://www.appi.co.jp
“Naka no makiba” rated 5th the most beautiful night sky in Japan. 5 min from Hotel APPI Grand
Contact : [email protected]
A space to relax and be at one with nature!
■ NAGANO
■ NAGANO
Beat
the su
mmer heat in the cool breeze of Hakuba (per
person per night) (per
person per night)
Tel:(0261) 85-8112 Cell:090-1147-9
079
Web: www.hakubapowderlodging.com
POWDER LODGING
POWDER LODGING
HAKUBAHAKUBA
Starting from ¥2,500
Starting from ¥2,500
■ NAGANO■ NAGANO
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OJ CLASSiFiEDS■ HOKKAiDO ■ TOHOKu ■ SHINETSU • HOKURIKU ■ CHUBU • TOKAI ■ KANTO ■ KANSAi
■ NAGANO
■ NAGANO
■ NiiGATA
Summer ¥8,500 Winter ¥9,500 (per person with meals)
Long stay packages also available
■ NAGANO
■ NAGANO
■ NAGANO
■ NAGANO
www.ridenorthstar.comNORTHSTAR outdoor adventures4306 Azumi, Matsumoto-shiNagano-kenPh: 0263.93.1688
Stay and Play in beautiful Norikura Kogen with an adventure package at NORTHSTAR and the Halenoa Lodge. We offer a full lineup of Green Season Outdoor Fun and if your not so adventurous then you can still enjoy beautiful Norikura Kogen with a dip in one of the Onsens and some local Soba.GUIDED FUN• Beginner MTB Lessons with rentals• Guided MTB Tours• River Hiking UNGUIDED FUN• Road Biking to the top of Mt. Norikura• Trail Running / Hiking• Local Onsen (Hotsping)• Day trips to Mt. Norikura, Kamikochi, Matsumoto City & Takayama City
GREENSEASON
■ NAGANO
■ NAGANO
www.nozawaholidays.comtel. 050 5532 6026
Season runs from December 3rd to May 6thSKI JAPAN
(With Mother Natures Blessing)
Come in December, Marchor April and beat the crowds
and save some money!
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■ NAGANO
■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU ■ KYUSHU • OKINAWA ■ OuTSiDE JApAN ■ GEAR & SERviCES Lifestyle Directory
■ GuNMA
Whitewater rafting, canyoning, adventure combos.....
0278-72-2811www.canyons.jp
Refreshing outdoor adventure experiences under 2 hours from Tokyo!
Refresh your Mind, Body & Soul
■ GuNMA
■ iBARAKi
■ GuNMA ■ TOKYO
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OJ CLASSiFiEDS■ HOKKAiDO ■ TOHOKu ■ SHINETSU • HOKURIKU ■ CHUBU • TOKAI ■ KANTO ■ KANSAi
■ TOKYO
Surf Shop, Lessons and RentalsOkuda Style Surfing • Located in Kamakura
0467-23-8284 • www.padobo.com
■ KANAGAWA
■ KANTO
■ KANAGAWA
NATURAL ACTION ★TEL: 0544-65-1123 | [email protected]
http://www.naturalaction.co.jp
関東から一番近いラフティングスポット富士川
Fuji River, The closest rafting spot to Tokyo
関東から一番近いラフティングスポット富士川
Fuji River, The closest rafting spot to Tokyo
GET WET, GET HAPPY!
GET WET, GET HAPPY!
自然の中で遊ぼう！
■ SHiZuOKA
IZU SHIMODA
International License for SURF LESSON
www.real-surf.com
■ SHiZuOKA
■ YAMANASHi
■ TOKYO
■ YAMANASHi ■ TOKYO
Shichirigahama, Kamakura
Phone: 0467-55-5702
www.easysurf.jp
■ KANAGAWA
Exper i ence Sou
the rn France in
Shonan
L a n g ua g e , C
u i s i n e, P e t a
n q u e
Wh e r e Y o u r R
e a l T r ip
t o F ra n c e
S t a r ts
Tel/Fax: 0466-24-5381 www.soleilprovence.com
■ KANAGAWA
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■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU ■ KYUSHU • OKINAWA ■ OuTSiDE JApAN ■ GEAR & SERviCES Lifestyle Directory
■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU
■ KANSAi
■ MiCRONESiA
HAPPYRAFT SHIKOKU.
Japan
s̀ Best White-Water Rafting and Canyoning Adventures.
HAPPYRAFT SHIKOKU.
0887 750 500
10-4 Iwahara Otoyo-c
ho
Nagaoka-gun Kochi-k
en 789-0158
HappyRaft http://ww
w.happyraft.com
0887 750 500
10-4 Iwahara Otoyo-cho
Nagaoka-gun Kochi-ken
789-0158
HappyRaft http://www.
happyraft.com
■ KOCHi
KOH LANTA � KRABI � THAILAND
email: [email protected]
Discover Nature, Discover Yourself.
■ THAiLAND
■ MiCRONESiA
■ MiCRONESiA
■ BALi
癒しの空間で...波を心いくまで満喫...
サーフィンガイドサーフィンコーチ
ラグジャリーな宿泊施設
Feel at home...Enjoy the ride...
Surf GuidingSurf Coaching
Luxury Accommodation
www.thechillhouse.com
■ TAIWAN
■ OKINAWA
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■ iNDiA
■ GEAR & SERviCES
■ GEAR & SERviCES
Air-golf.com
Golf this summer on two of Tochigi’s top courses!
■ GEAR & SERviCES
Office Network & Computer SupportDatabase DevelopmentWebsite DevelopmentVoIP Telephone SystemsOnline Marketingwww.showcase-central.info
www.emissary.co.jp | 03-3365-1978
■ GEAR & SERviCES
Japan Resort Properties
Find your perfect getaway in japan at www.JapanPropertyListings.com
Live your lifestyle.
■ GEAR & SERviCES
OJ CLASSiFiEDS ■ HOKKAiDO ■ TOHOKu ■ SHINETSU • HOKURIKU ■ CHUBU • TOKAI ■ KANTO ■ KANSAi■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU ■ KYUSHU • OKINAWA ■ OuTSiDE JApAN ■ GEAR & SERviCES
■ GEAR & SERviCES
■ GEAR & SERviCES
Food & fun from home!FBC is the easiest way to get food and fun from home, direct to your door – anything from cereals, cheeses, health foods, kid’s books & games to seasonal goods!
■ GEAR & SERviCES
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www.oberoihotels.com
