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An Investigation into the Winemaking andTaste Reality of Sherry's Palo Cortado Style

Kenneth Mackay MW

Pa lo Cor t ad o She r r y i s a mys te r i ou s w ine . W hi l s t t he Sh e r r y - mak in g p roc es s i s gen e r a l lywel l -do cu m e n t e d , ther e is v i r tual ly not hi ng wri t t en on the or igi ns , pro du ct i o n tech ni qu e sand tas t e d is t i nc t i ve n e s s of Palo Cor ta d o win e s . On e cou ld per ha p s be for giv e n for

co mi n g aw ay with the im pr es s i o n that the P alo Cor ta d o s ty le i s a labe l us ed on anent i re ly arbi t ra ry bas i s . Thi s s tud y a t te m pt s to she d som e l ight on th is uniq ue win e.

Sh er ry A Brief In t ro d u c t i o n

To da y, v i r t ua l l y a l l Sh er ry is ma de f rom the Pal o mi n o gra pe var i e t y (a few sw ee t wi ne sare ma de f rom Pe dr o Xim n e z and Mo s c a t e l ) and, e xc ep t for a sm al l nu m b er of aadas(vinta ge win es) whi ch are s ta t ica l l y ag ed in a s ingl e barr e l , i t i s dyna mi c a l l y m at ur e d

via the sole ra sys t e m, whi ch invo lv e s f ract i on al b len di n g bet w e e n barr e l s a nd vinta g e s toma i n t a i n cons i s t e n c y o f s ty l e and qua l i t y.

Th e fund a m e n t a l sha re d prod uc t i o n proc es s for Pal o mi n o Sh er r i es i s to fer m e nt themu st to dryn es s , then to for t i fy the win e to e i the r 15- 15.5 % or 17-18 % alco h ol by

vol u m e, an d fin all y to plac e it in 500 litre old oa k b ar re l s (fil led ab ou t 5/6ths full) toma tu re . I f the win e has bee n for t i f ie d to 15- 15.5 %, i t i s a t the opt i m u m s t ren gt h to

dev el op i n g a cov er in g of flor yea s t on the surfa c e of the win e, whi ch prot ec ts the win efrom oxid at i on and cau se s i t to dev el o p in to a pal e Fin o (known as a Ma nz a ni l l a i f i t i s

pro du c e d in the tow n of San l c a r de Bar ra m e d a) s t y le . Al ter na t i ve l y, i f the win e isfo r t i f i ed to 17 -18 %, the a l coh o l conc e n t r a t i o n p rev en t s t he g rowt h o f a cove r i ng o f f l o ryeas t an d en su re s t ha t i t w i l l ma t u r e ox ida t i ve ly , t o beco m e a da rk Olo r os o s ty l e .

Am o nt i l l ad o win es are pro du c e d f rom Fino win es re-for t i f ie d to 17-18 % and fur th erma t u r e d und e r ox ida t iv e con d i t i on s . The se wine s F ino , Am o n t i l l ad o and Olo r os o - a r e3 o f t he 4 c l a s s i c , na tu r a l l y d ry She r ry s ty l e s t ha t a r e ma tu r e d in s epa ra t e so l e r a s i n t hebod eg a s toda y. T he four t h s ty l e i s Pal o C ort a d o , the focu s of th is ar t ic l e .

T h e E f f e c t s o f S h e r r y M a t u r a t i o n o n Ta s t e C h a r a c t e r

As th e Pa lo m i n o bas e win e is fa i r ly n eu tr a l , i t i s s t ron gl y inf lue nc e d by the f lavo ur s

p rod uc e d du r in g ma t u r a t i o n . Dur i ng bio lo g ic a l ma tu ra t i on , t he me t ab o l i s m o f t he f lo ryea st resu l t s in b io ch e m i c a l cha n g e s whi ch gre at l y inf lue n c e f lavo ur - inclu di n g: 1)

inc re a s e d lev el s of ac et al d e h y d e (respo n si bl e for the typi ca l ap pl e- l ike aro m a of Fi no

she rr y) ; and 2) a dras t i c redu ct io n of g lyc er ol (a v isc ou s l iquid whi ch has a ma rk e dswe e t e n i n g e ff ec t on the pa l a t e ) t o neg l i g ib l e l eve l s . C on t r a s t i ng ly , w in es ma t u r a t e dund e r oxida t iv e co nd i t i o ns expe r i e n c e an inc re as e i n g lyce ro l conc e n t r a t i o n .

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Research Findings

To da y only 20 out of the 64 Ship pi n g Bod e g a s in the Sh er ry regi on pro du c e and ma rk et

Pa lo Cor t ad o wine s . Du r in g the cour s e o f t h i s re se a r c h a l l wer e co n ta c t e d , and thema jo r i ty were v i s i t ed f i r s t -hand .

Origins

The p rec i se o r ig ins o f Pa lo Cor t ad o r em a i n unce r t a i n ; h i s to r i ca l r eco r ds in t he bod eg a sare gen er al ly po or, and ther e has bee n a cul t ur a l re l ian ce on oral t radi t io n to pas s on thedet a i l s of pro du c t io n tech ni qu e s . The mo st l ikely dat e for the or i gin of Palo Cor ta d o isaro un d the be gi nn i n g of the 1 9 th Ce nt ur y. The ear l ie s t c la i m e d dat e for a co m m e r c i a l

re le as e c om e s f ro m the f i rm of Hid al go La Gi ta na , whe re ora l his t or y reco rd s Pa loCor ta d o bei ng sold bac k to the Pe ni n s ul ar Wa r (1808-18 1 4) . The ear l i es t wri t te n reco rdof the term com e s f rom the f i rm of Em il i o Hid al go , wh er e cas ks des cr ib e d as PaloCor ta d o wer e pur ch a s e d in 18 60.

Production Techniques

Inter e s t i ng l y, Pal o Cor ta d o is the only Sh er ry s ty le for whi ch the Co ns e j o Re g ul a d o r - thebod y r e sp o n s i b l e fo r de f in i ng p rod uc t i o n r egu l a t i on s - doe s no t de f in e p rod uc t i o n

tech ni q u e s . The ir off ic i a l def i ni t i on is :

A type of wine intermediate between [Amontillado and Oloroso], with the aroma of amontillado and the colour and palate of oloroso The selection of wines for the PaloCortado criaderas is something that belongs to the subjective and almost mysteriousterritory of the tasters of each bodega. There are not really any precise descriptions or procedures of production, so only the nose of the taster is used to discover and separate

wines which have developed this amazing personality.

Traditional Palo Cortado Production

Prod u c t io n t echn iq u e s u sed in t he Je rez r eg io n wer e subs t a n t i a l l y mo de r n i s e d i n t he19 60 s. Pa lo mi n o gra pe s unt i l th is poin t we re dr ie d in the sun for 12- 48 hou rs , the ntrea d e d in wo o d e n lagares . The lef tov er pulp was pres s e d in ver t ic a l wo od e n scre wpre ss e s, an d all the m us t wa s the n fer m e n t e d in oak bar re l s of 500-600 litres . As a res ul t

o f t he d ry ing p roc es s i n t he v iney a r d , t he wines wer e na tu r a l l y a l co ho l i c , r eac h i ng 15 %.Afte r ferm e nt a t i o n a l l win es wer e a l low e d the opp or t u ni ty to de ve lo p f lor. In

De ce m b e r /J an u a r y the barr e l s rece iv e d thei r f i rs t c las s i f ic a t i on bas ed on the colo ur and

nos e o f t he wine . The bas i c c l a s s i f i c a t i on sys t e m was :

1) Palo - indi ca t e d by a sing l e line / win e s de st i n e d for Fin oor2) Oloroso - indic at e d by a n o wine s des t i ne d for Ol or os o

with the wines kept a t c. 15 % and re-for t i f ie d to c. 1 7 % r e s p e c t i v e l y. T h e s e sobretablas(young wi ne s a f t e r t he i r fi r s t c l a s s i f i c a t i on ) w ine s wer e m a t u r e d , t yp ica l ly fo r 6-18mo nt h s , and then use d to top up the you ng e s t criaderas of the sole ra s . The capataz

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(cel larm a s t er ) mo ni to re d the sobretablas win es to see how they evo lv e d . Tho s e palowine s wh ic h pa r t i a l l y o r com p l e t e l y l o s t t he i r f l or were r ec l a s s i f i e d a s palo cortado a n dre-con d u c t e d to oxi da t i ve age in g.

Th e m os t l ikel y or igi n of the Pal o Co rt ad o c las s i f ic a t i on des ig n a t e d by a ma rk s imi la r to

a cro ss - wa s as a me a n s of indi c at in g wh ic h palo / but ts h ad b ee n r e-fortif ie d(beca us e of we ak f lor gro wt h - mo st l ikel y due to an ini t ia l for t i f ic a t i on that was e i the r toohigh -abo v e 16 %, wh er e f lor s t rug gl e s due to a lco h ol toxic i t y ; or too low - und er 15 %,wh er e f lor s t rug gl e s due to com p e t i o n by oth er yea st and bac te r i a) wi th a jarra of spi r i tby mar ki n g the m with a hor i zo nt a l l ine (the Sp an i sh t rans la t i on of Pal o Co rt ad o is cutstic k, an d thi s nam e fits we ll with this the or y). On e jarra (12 litres) of spi rit rai se s thealco h ol by volu m e of the but t by abo ut 2% . Fur th er for t i f ic a t i on s of spi r i t ar e the or i gin of

dos , tres an d cuatro cortados (wi th suc ce s s i v e hor i zo nt a l cha lk l ines add e d acr os s thepalo /, e. g. dos cortados ( ) an d so o n) 1 . The s e r epe a t e d fo r t i f i ca t i on s wer e l i ke lynee de d bec a u s e of the var i a t i o n in in i t ia l for t i f i ca t i o n level s as the w ho le pro ce s s wa sdon e by hand , an d bod eg a wor ke r s mig h t ea s i ly un de r- fo r t i fy, o r eve n mi s s ou t ce r t a i ncas ks a l tog et h er . No w a d a y s ent i re vats are pr ec is e l y for t i f ie d , and th is sou rc e of

va r i a t io n has e ff ec t i ve ly bee n r em o v e d f rom the p rod uc t i o n p roc es s .

Modern Palo Cortado Production

Wh il s t a num b e r of prod u c e r s ma in ta i n wh at i s prob a bl y the or igi na l t radi t io n of se le ct i n g

wines f rom within the sobretablas that natur a l ly lose thei r f lor, ma ny othe r pro du c e r sma ke Pa lo Cor t ad o in a num b e r o f a l t e rn a t i ve , an d o f t e n en t i r e l y co n t r o l l ed , way s . Su ch

co m pl e x i ty wa s m or e than was exp ec t e d a t the out se t (wi th every pro du c er doin g th ing sat leas t s l ight ly di ff er en t l y) , and i t has to be sa id that the cand i d a nd en th us i a s t ic

res p o n s e of the pro d u c e r s to this res e ar c h wa s tre m e n d o u s .

Th e maj or i t y of win e m a k e r s bel i ev e that the key inf lue n c e s on the Pal o Cor ta d o s ty le

occ ur a t pres s i n g and dur i ng ma tu r at io n . Onl y a few pro du c er s reco g ni s e a re la t i on s hi pbe tw e e n ce r t a i n v iney a r d s and wine s ty l e s (amon gs t t hese , Ba rb a d i l l o a r e un iq u e i nact ua l l y c las s i fy in g vine y ar d plot s by in te nd e d win e s ty le) ; and only Val de s pi n o - the sol erem ai ni n g pro du c e r to ferm e nt in barr e l (which pro du c e s mu ch less con si s t e nt resu l t stha n the tem p er a t ur e- con tr ol le d, s ta i nl es s- s tee l tank s of 8,000-300,00 0 l i tres use d

els e w h e r e) - feel s tha t the re is a sign if ic a nt influ en c e fro m the alc oh ol ic fer m e n t a ti o n onthe Pal o Co rt ad o s ty le .

No w a d a y s gra pe s are me ch a ni c a l l y pres s e d and 3 f ract io ns are typic al l y ferm e n t e d

s e p a r a t e l y :

1) Primera yema free- run jui ce an d lig ht pr es si n g s up to 2kg/c m 2

2) Segunda yema pres s i n g f ract i on f rom 2-4kg/cm2

3) Mosto prensa pres s i ng s f ract i on f rom 4-6kg/cm 2

So m e prod uc er s , suc h as Go nz l e z By as s , con si d er that Pal o Cor ta d o can only bema d e fro m the free- run juic e; ot he r s, su ch as P ed ro Ro m e r o, find tha t P al os Co rt a d o s

1 Ho w e v e r, the co nt e m p o r a r y us ag e of the sys te m of mu lt ip le cortados is s o m e w h a t diff er e n t. Itsuse is not wid e s p r e a d, but wh er e i t is fou n d the ma rk s are u se d on butt s as an arb itr ar yincre as in g sca le to ind ic a t e com p a r a t i v e age and /or fu l lne ss o f bod y.

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usually co m e f rom the ful le r- bod ie d pres s i n g win e s; s t i l l o the rs , s uc h as Wil l i a m s &Hu m b e r t , bel i ev e that Pal o Cor ta d o can com e f rom any f ract i on .

Ne ar ly a l l pro du c er s agr ee that the mo st cruc ia l inf lu en c e s on She rr y s ty le a nd P aloCor ta d o pro du ct io n co m e a t th e ma tu ra t i o n s tag e, pos t - ferm e nt a t i o n . Ho w e v e r, the

pro du c e r s vary ma rk e dl y in the wa y th ey go abo ut pro vi di ng the r ight c on di t i on s for the

p rod uc t i o n o f Pa lo Cor t ad o wine s (some ev en emp lo y mor e than on e me t ho d ) . Thediffer en t ma tu r at i on s t ra t eg ie s are sum m a r i s e d in to grou p s bel ow , bas e d aro un d thesel ec t i on of win e s and thei r t rea t m e n t pos t - ferm e nt a t i o n .

1) Selection of Sobretablas Casks Maturing under Flor Oxidative Solera

Use d by : Emi l io H ida l go , Emi l io Lus t au , Jos Es t v e z and Wis o m & War te r

Fin o- in ten d e d sobretablas c a s k s m a t u r i n g a t c. 15 %, whi ch fa i l to dev el op vigo ro u s f lorgro wt h, are id ent i f i ed . Al l Pal os Cor ta d o s prod u c e d th is wa y wil l have had so m e f lor

inf lue nc e for the 1-2 yea rs they spe nd in the sobretablas prior to bei ng for t i f ie d to17-18 % and en te r in g the Pa lo Cor t ad o criaderas .

2) Selection of Sobretablas Casks Maturing under Flor Oxidative Maturation asVintage Cask for 10 years Selection of Casks Oxidative Solera

Us ed by : Do m e c q and Har ve y s

Casks wi th in the sobretablas sho wi n g the r ig ht pot en t i a l for Pal o Cor ta d o are re-for t i f ie dto 17 % and ma t u r e d sepa ra t e l y, a s v in t a ge cask s , fo r 10 yea r s . The capataz t hense l ec t s t hose cask s w h ic h hav e dev e l op e d a s t rong Pa lo Co r t a d o cha r ac t e r, and thes eare use d to refre sh the you n g e s t criaderas of the Pa lo Cor t ad o so l e r a s .

3) Vineyard Selection Short 4-level Biological Solera Oxidative Solera

Use d by : Ba rb a d i l l o

Pal o Co rt ad o win e is se le ct ed on the bas is of v ine ya r d or igi ns , for t i f ie d to 15 % and, af tera ye ar u nd e r flor in the sobretablas, mov e d in to a b io log ic a l ma t u r a t i on so l e r a o f 4 l eve l s .Th e wi ne s rem ov e d f rom this sole ra are for t i f i ed to 18 % and mo v e d in to the oxi da t i vePa lo Cor t ad o so l e r a . A t Ba rb a d i l l o t he p r inc ip a l d i f f e re nc e be tw e e n Pa lo s Cor t ad o s and

Am o nt i l l ad o s i s cons id er e d to be the leng th of t ime und er f lor pr io r to oxid at iv ema t u r a t io n wi th Am o n t i l l ad o hav i ng an av e ra g e 10 -12 yea r s , com p a r e d t o Pa lo

Cor t ad o s ave r ag e o f 5 yea r s .

4) Tank Selection Oxidative Solera

Us ed by : San c h e z Ro m a t e

Ver y occ as i o n a l ly , a ferm e nt e d vat of pre ss qua l i t y 2 (inten de d for A mo nt i l la do) wi l l , a f ter

abo ut two wee k s in tank , evol ve to wa r d the ful ler- bod ie d s tyl e of pre ss qu al i ty 3

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(inten d e d for Ol or o s o) thes e tan k s are rec o g ni s e d as sho wi n g the pot e nt i al for P al oCor ta d o and are for t i f i ed to 17 %. Thi s tank evo lu t i on is a rare occ ur re n c e .

5) Vintage Cask Matured under Flor for 1-2 years Static Oxidative Maturation

Us ed by : Jos Est v e z

Ne w vin ta ge win es f rom free- run mus t are mat ur e d und er f lor for 1-2 yea rs and the n

for t i f i ed to 17 % and age d oxid at i ve ly ther ea f t er . Wi ne m a k e r Ed ua r d o Oje da bel i ev e s thatfree- run mu st ag e d un de r flor for a peri o d of bet w e e n a few mo nt h s up to a ma xi m u m of 2 yea rs i s h ighl y l ikely to pro du c e a Pal o Cor ta d o s ty le . Oje da sug g e s t s that anAm o nt i l l ad o real l y has to see a mini m u m of 3 yea rs und er f lor.

6) Selection of Amontillado Casks

Use d by : Gu i t r r e z - Co lo s a

Her e , Pal o Cor ta d o is see n as a natur a l dev el o p m e n t of cer ta i n barr e l s in theAm o n t i l l ad o so l e r a , wh ic h lo s e the i r fi nes se and de ve lo p a d i f f e re n t cha r ac t e r o f g rea t e r

bo dy . Wi ne m a k e r Jua n Ca rl os an e c d o t al ex pe ri e n c e - afte r 46 ye ar s in the bo de g a - isthat th is tends to hap p e n in yea rs wh er e the wea th er var i es f rom very co ld to very h ot .

7) Selected Amontillados Matured in Oloroso Casks

Us e d by : Sa n c h e z Ro m a t e

Th e dev el op m e n t of Pal o Cor ta d o win es is encou ra g e d by ma tu r i ng Am o nt i l l ad o win es

in ba r r e l s wh ic h have p rev i ou s l y con t a i n e d O lo r os o .

8) Fino-quality Vintage Cask Static Oxidative Maturation

Us ed by : Go nz l e z Bya ss , Wil l i a m s & Hu m b e r t

Fin o- qua l i t y win e (i.e. f ree- run and low- pres su r e pre ss in g s) i s for t i f i ed af ter ferm e nt a t i o nto 17 % and age d oxid at iv el y as a v inta g e win e. Go nz l e z Bya ss bel i ev e that , wi th th is

me th o d , they can gua ra nt e e the pr od uc t i o n of Palo Cor ta d o (they see the di ff er en c ebet we e n Pal o Cor ta d o and Olo ro s o in term s of pres s i n g: wi th Pal o Cor ta d o com in g f rom

the f ree- run and l ight er pr es s i ng f ract i on s , an d Olor os o co mi n g f rom the hard er

pre ss i n g s) . Wil l ia m s & Hu m b e r t use an iden t i c al sys t e m, but they do not bel i ev e thatthey can gu ar a nt e e the prod uc t i o n of Pal o Co rt a d o , and that the cas ks hav e th e pote nt i a lt o deve l o p in to Pa l o Cor t ad o , Am o n t i l l ad o o r O lo ro s o s ty l e s .

9) Blending Selected Amontillado and Oloroso Casks

Us ed by : Hid al g o La Gi ta na , Os b or n e , Sa nc h e z Ro m a t e and Wil l i am s & Hu m b e r t

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Se le c t e d O lo r os o and Am o n t i l l ad o wine s a re add ed in to the you ng e s t Pa lo Cor t ad o

criadera . The pro du c er s s t res s that thes e blen ds are very pr ec is e , an d tas t e cr i ter ia areuse d to l ook fo r ca sk s w h ic h na tu ra l ly m ov e tow ar d s a Pa lo Co r t a d o cha r ac t e r .

10) Selected Casks from the Fino and Amontillado Criaderas

Use d by : Emi l io H ida l go

Occ as i o n a l ba r r e l s a r e i den t i f i e d am o n g s t t he F ino and Am o n t i l l ad o criaderas w h i c hdeve l op natu ra l l y into the Palo Cor ta d o s ty le a nd ar e blen d e d in to the soler as of Pal oCor t ad o , w h ic h a l so r ec e iv e cask s se l ec t e d f rom the sobretablas w i n e s m a t u r i n g u n d e rf lo r a s p r e v i o u s l y d e s c r i b e d .

11) Selection of Oloroso Casks

Us ed by : Ped r o Ro m e r o

Her e Pa l os Cor t ad o s a lwa ys deve lo p na tu r a l l y w i th in ce r t a in Olo r os o ba r r e l s . The ybel i ev e the dev el o p m e n t of the Pal o Cor ta d o s ty le i s a t ru ly unc o nt r ol l ab l e occ ur re n c e .

12) Buying in of selected Criadera refresher wines

Us ed by : Bod e g a s Tra di c i n , Fer na n d o de Cas t i l la

Bot h thes e pro du c e r s buy refre sh er win e s for thei r you n g e s t Pal o Cor ta d o criaderasf rom ou ts i de , wi th the win es se le ct e d sol e l y on tas te cr i ter ia .

Th er e is c lea r l y a hug e dive rs i t y of pro du c t io n me th o d s for Palo Cor ta d o win es - wi thh igh l y va r i ab l e b io log ic a l and ox ida t iv e ma t u r a t i o n r eg i m e s , and se l ec t io n and b l end i ngst ra t eg i e s - and ther e are s t r ik i ng di ffer en c e s of opi ni on bet we e n pro du c e r s abo utappr op r i a t e me t ho d s , t he nece s s i t y o f f l o r ma t u r a t i o n , t he appr op r i a t e n e s s o f b l en d i n g ,

and the use of sw ee t e ni n g win es . For exa m pl e , Ped ro Ro m e r o bel i ev e Pal o Cor ta d ocan no t be mad e f rom a wine ag ed und e r f l o r, and Em i l i o H ida l g o tha t i t c an no t be mad efrom a pur el y oxid at i ve Olo ro s o . Re ga r di n g blen di n g , the ma in obj ec t i o n to th is i s that i ti s som e h o w an ar t i f ic ia l met h o d of repr od u c i n g Pal o Cor ta d o whi ch , to so m e , sho ul d be

a rar e win e wh ic h sp on t a n e o u s l y de ve l o p s in cer ta in bar re l s. Ho w e v e r, tho s e wh o doma ke use of b len ds are aw ar e of the di ff icu l t i es wi th th is app ro a c h , and that incre di bl e

sel ec t i on is req ui re d to ma ke blen di n g wor k. S we et n e s s i s ano th er d ivis iv e issu e - the

ma jo r i ty of prod uc er s bel i ev e that P alo Cor ta d o sho ul d a lw ay s be dry, as s we et e ni n gd i s to r t s t he s ty l e 2 .

Control over Production

2 The au th or enc ou n t e r e d two swe e t e n e d Pa lo s Cor t ad o s f rom Har ve y s and Osb or n e .

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Palo Cortado

Aro m a : Typ i ca l ly l eans towa rd s the f r e s h , pun ge n t nos e o f Amo n t i l l ad o , bu t a l so

ex pr e s s e s so m e t h i n g of the rou n d e d , sof t aro m a of Ol or o s o. Co m b i n e s thei r aro m a s of haz e l nu t s , wa ln u t s , and o ld woo d . So m e c i t e but t e r sc o t c h a s a c l a s s i c Pa lo Cor t ad o

not e , but th is ma y not a lw ay s be pres e nt . Cla ss ic a l ly has som e f lor inf lue n c e , but Fino-

remi n i sc e n t sme l l s and f l avo ur s ma y o r ma y no t be pre s en t .

Pal a t e : Th e di ffer en c e is of te n c lea re s t her e . Co m bi n e s the f ine- textu re d pal a t e (a sen se

of clari ty an d an ab s e n c e of tan ni n), fres h n e s s an d dry har dn e s s of A m o n ti ll a d o; wit hthe sof t, me ll o w sm o o t h n e s s of Ol or o s o. Inte r m e d i a t e in bo d y bet w e e n, an d co m b i n e sthe flav ou r s of , the two.

Th e Pal o Cor ta d o s ty le var i es f rom pro du c er to prod uc er , but a l wa y s repr es e n t s aninte r m e d i a t e styl e bet w e e n the pro du c e r s Am o n ti ll ad o s an d Ol or o s o s in te r m s of pal at etext ur e and wei gh t in par t i cu l ar. Of the thre e s ty les the Pal o Cort ad o wi ne s wer e foun d tobe s l igh t l y less d is t i nc t i ve as a gro up , bec a u s e of thei r in ter m e di a t e s ty le . The dry Pal o

Cor ta d o win es tas t ed a l l repr es e n t e d t rue hyb r i ds wi th so m e of the glyc er ol-

sm o o t h n e s s, rou n d n e s s an d sof tn e s s of Ol or o s o (but not i ts tan ni n s), yet als o wit h thedry pun g e n c y, incis i ve f resh n e s s , l ightn es s and c lea r, f ine pal a t e of Am o nt i l la d o (but noti t s aus te re dryn es s) . Aro m a s and f lavo ur s wer e a lso fo un d to ove r l ap wi th bo th s t y le s -

cov er in g the nu t sp ec tr u m from the m el l o w e r roa s t e d wal nu t aro m a of Olor os o , to themor e inc i s iv e f r e sh haze ln u t cha r ac t e r o f Am o n t i l l ad o . A f ew d i sp l ay e d c l ea r bu t t e r sc o t c h

not es , bu t o the rs d id not , so i t see m s d i ff icu l t to a t t r ib ut e th is as a def i ni t iv e aro m a .Wi ne s wi th res i du al sug ar wer e mo re con fu si n g to plac e , as the s we et n e s s prov id e d a

so f t e r mo u t h f e e l s imi l a r t o O lo r os o .

Th e rese ar c h perf or m e d for th is s tud y has hel pe d to def i ne Pal o Cor ta d o s tas techa r ac t e r and r e l a t io ns h i p t o t he r e l a t e d s ty l e s o f Am o n t i l l ad o and Olo r os o mor e c l ea r l y.Th e bl ind tas t i ng s reve al e d that th er e is a d isc er ni bl e dis t i nc t i ve n e s s to the Pa lo Cor ta d o

cat eg or y, and that i t i s mo re than jus t a ma rk et i n g labe l . Pal o Co rt ad o win es are pat en t l ydive rs e varyi ng in colo ur , a lco h ol s t re ng th , f lor inf lu en c e and swe et n e s s - how e v e r,t he re i s a l so s ign i f i c an t va r i a t i on wi th in the Am o n t i l l ad o and Olo r os o s ty l e s . The va r i a t i onpe rh a p s se e m s mo r e pro n o u n c e d in Pal os Co rt a d o s, but this is to be exp e ct e d as the s ewin es are no t anc ho r e d a t one end of the tas t e spe ct ru m, but f loat i ng a t so m e

inter m e di a t e and vary in g dis ta nc e bet w e e n Am o nt i l l ad o and Olo ro s o in s ty l e . Wh er ePal o Cor ta d o win es s t ray c los e to e i the r en d of the tas te sp ec tr u m, con fu si o n anddeb a t e ove r t he wine s c l a s s i f i c a t i on i s i nev i t ab ly mor e li ke ly.

Conclusion

The t r ad i t i o na l exp l an a t i on s o f Pa lo Cor t ad o s p rod uc t i o n and t a s t e cha r ac t e r i n t hel it e r a t u r e a r e f a i r ly unsa t i s fy in g . Mu ch o f t he conf us io n abo u t Pa l o Cor t a d o hasund ou bt e d l y com e f rom i ts uni qu e s ta tu s as a win e s ty le def i ne d ent i r e l y by sm el l an d

tas t e cr i ter i a . A s the re is no reg ul a t e d or def in e d prod u c t io n me th o d for Palo Cor ta d o ,ther e is p len ty of roo m for d i ffere nc e s of opin io n on app ro pr i a t e met ho d s , and Pal oCor ta d o is a hot l y deb at e d topic in the Sh er ry regi on .

C sa r Sal da a , of the Co ns e j o Re g ul a d o r, app re ci a t e s the real i ty that the wa y thehou se s prod uc e Pal o Cor ta d o is very di ff er e nt an d that the curre nt def i ni t io n of Pal o

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Cor ta d o in the reglamento , wi th i t s sub je ct iv e def i ni t i on of the nos e of an Am o nt i l la d oand the pal a t e of an Olor os o i s a l i t tle wo ol l y. De sp i t e th is , Sald a a bel i ev e s that i twou ld ma ke l it t l e s ens e to en fo r ce s t r i c t p rod u c t io n ru l e s , and , a s t he th ree ox id a t i ve ly

ma t u r e d s ty l e s o f She r r y r ep re s e n t a spec t r u m o f w ine s ty l e s t ha t e ff ec t i ve ly me l d in toeac h othe r, S ald a a wo ul d f ind i t har d to in t ro d u c e a def i ni t io n of Palo Cor ta d o bas e d on

so m e kind of tech ni c a l ana ly s i s and ben ch m a r k prof i le . Sal da a s per so n a l exp er ie n c e

wi th the sub j ec t iv i ty o f Pa lo Cor t ad o c l a s s i f i c a t i on conf i r m s t he d i ff i cu l ty o f such anapp ro a c h . So on af ter he jo ine d Sa nd e m a n s exp or t dep ar t m e n t , Sal da a spo ke to the

capataz and enq ui re d wh y the re wer e n o Palo s C ort ad o s in the Por t fo l i o . The capataz repl i ed we hav e no Pal o Cort ad o her e . Afte r he had bee n wo rk i ng ther e a whi le , hebeg an inves t ig a t in g ba r r e l s h ims e l f and d i sc ov e r e d a f ew whic h he a ske d the capataz tohav e a look a t , sug ge s t i ng they wer e def i ni t e l y Pal os Cor ta d o s . The capataz t a s t e dthes e barr e l s a nd repl i ed that they wer e inde e d very f ine Olo ro s o s ! The Con s e j o

the re fo re in t end s t o con t inu e de f in i ng the fina l p rod uc t , and exe rc i s i ng con t r o l by t a s t i ngf in i she d bo t t l e s .

Pa lo Cor t ad o She r r y r em a i n s a ni ch e p rod uc t . Con s e j o Reg u l a d o r r eco r ds in 198 7

sh o w e d 27 pr od u c e r s of Pa l o Co rt a d o, an d tha t nu m b e r ha s no w dro pp e d to 20.

Ho w e v e r, i t is a win e that is ver y hig hl y reg ar d e d in Jer ez , an d am o n g s t kno wl e d g e a b l eSh er ry con su m e r s . Al th ou g h und o u b t e d l y the mys te ry of i t s pr od uc t i o n and i t s re la t iv erar i ty hav e be en ben ef ic ia l se l l in g tool s in the pas t , it i s hop e d that grea te r c lar i ty abo ut

this in t r ig ui n g She rr y s ty le can onl y help to spre a d und er s t a n d i n g and aw ar e n e s s of th isspe ci a l win e, and that th is rese ar c h wi l l c on tr i bu t e tow ar d s imp ro v e d com m u n i c a t i o n

abo ut Pa lo Co rt ad o in the futur e . Whi ls t the s tory of th is spe ci a l Sh er ry s ty le has bee nma d e c lea re r, Pal o Cor ta d o has a lso ma n a g e d to esc ap e wi th som e of i t s my st er io u s

cha r ac t e r i n t ac t . I t s unpre s c r ib e d p rod u c t io n me t ho d s and i t s d ive r se - ye t d i s t i n c t i ve -cha r ac t e r, sugg e s t t ha t t hese h igh - qua l i t y w ine s wi l l r em a i n a sou r ce o f g rea t deba te and

pas s i o n am on g s t Sh er ry love rs for man y yea rs to co m e .