Footwear exportsJust Like heavenBloomed outOur jewels40 degrees catwalk

Düsseldorf, Las Vegas, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, New York, Paris and Shanghai. In the second semester of this year, Portuguese footwear will embark on a journey around the world. Over 140 companies participate in 30 professional events worldwide on a display of excellence of the Portuguese offer, in a joint initiative by APICCAPS and AICEP with the support of the COMPETE Programme and a budget of 11 million euros. Portuguese Shoes must go on

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DirectorEditor-in-Chief

Graphic DesignPhotographyStylingCollaborationIllustrationSpecial Thanks

Adversitising Coordination

Owner

ISBNCirculationPrinted by

credits

President of APICCAPSPaulo Gonçalvespaulogoncalves@mail.apiccaps.ptMário Teixeira (manifestoworks.com)Frederico MartinsFernando Bastos PereiraCatarina Rito, Ílidia Pinto, Manuel Arnaut, Patrícia GonçalvesAntónio SoaresAICEP Portugal Global, ANJE and ModaLisboaJoaquim Mendonça Moreira Manuela OliveiraPaula Ascenção Laranja Fátima SantosEma Aguiar Ramos (Pegada Criativa)

APICCAPS Portuguese Footwear, Components, Leather Goods Manufacturers’ AssociationRua Alves Redol 372Apartado 4643 4011-001 Porto

Tel: +351 225 074 150Fax: +351 225 074 179apiccaps@mail.telepac.pt www.apiccaps.ptwww.portugueseshoes.ptwww.portuguesoul.pt 2182-2298 10.000 copies Orgal Impressores

Paulo Gonçalves Editor in Chief

editorial

After a globally very interesting 2011 that was marked by the assertion of Portuguese companies in the international markets, this year has also started well for them, with a sustainable growth of exports.

Originality, quality and service are the main competitive weapons at the disposal of the Portuguese fashion industry to continue amassing fans across the world. To the know-how accumulated over generations and the truly timeless design, companies try to add new arguments that may allow them to become increasingly global entities.

This is the brave new world that Portuguese Soul magazine invites you to meet. Discover, in detail, the Portuguese footwear industry that exports 95% of its production. Portuguese shoes are sold in over 130 countries on five continents. It is a veritable shoecolate.

Meet also a modern country which, notwithstanding its eight-centuries-old history, reinvents itself at every turn. A country with soul. A country named Portugal.

SHOECOLAT

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

06/EDITORIAL 10/MAKING OFF 10/PORTU-GUESE SHOES ON FIRE 16/A TEAM 22/LEATHER PRODUCTS 24/WHAT’S UP 33/NATURAL SHOES 38/”JUST LIKE HEAVEN” 58/FRANCISCO BALSEMÃO 62/PORTUGAL FASHION 64/40 DEGREES 68/MODALISBOA 74/BACK AND WHITE 82/NUNO BALTAZAR 84/”BLOOMED OUT” 97/TELL ME WHAT YOU WANT... 102/THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN 104/OUR JEWELS 109/WELCOME TO PORTUGAL 110/SUCCESSFUL PORTUGUESE 114/PORTUGUESE BRANDS 117/BUÇACO 118/MUDE 120/PORTUGUESE CUISINE

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back stage

back stage

MAKING OFFPiscina das Marés, in Matosinhos, currently under the administration of Matosinhos Sport, was the location chosen for the “Just like heaven” editorial.

This pictorial work features the proposals of Portuguese brands and designers for next winter.

Inaugurated in 1966, the Piscina das Marés swimming pool complex was designed by architect Álvaro Siza Vieira and, more than 40 years later, continues to be a reference of unmatched timelessness.

The complex nestles harmoniously into the rocky landscape against which the sea waves crash. The building stretches parallel to the avenue and to the ocean, but its receded position allows unobstructed views of both land and sea.

Photos Pedro Sá

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Exports of the Portuguese footwear industry grew, in 2011, 16% to 1,555 million euros It is one of the best-ever performances of the sector. Between January and December, the sector placed more than 75 million pairs of shoes and reached over 130 countries in five continents.

Portuguese footwear exports are growing in practically every market, especially in European Union countries such as Germany (21% growth to 280 million euros), France (7% to 397 million euros), the Netherlands (17% to 212 million euros) and Spain (34% to 168 million euros). Because of its symbolism, the good performance in Italy is also noteworthy. In 2011, Portugal exported to Italy 2.8 million pairs (11% growth) worth 48 million euros (45% growth). On the negative side, and notwithstanding the good results earlier in the year, was the British market, with a 14% break in quantity to 5.43 million pairs, worth 120 million euros (a drop of 7.6%).

Portuguese footwear is growing substantially outside of Europe (31%). The highlights were the good performances in Russia (49% growth to 16 million euros), USA (16% to 14 million euros, Canada (49% to 12 million euros) and Japan (29% to 9.8 million euros). The average price of exported Portuguese footwear increased 4.4% to €19,72.

Still during 2011, Portuguese footwear reinforced its position as the product that contributed the most to the Portuguese balance of trade, with a surplus of over one billion euros by the end of the year. In fact, in 2011, exports grew three times more than imports (5.7% to 541 million euros).

At the start of 2012, Portuguese footwear exports experienced growth once again. In the first quarter, the sector exported 17 million pairs, worth 407 million euros.

For the 2nd quarter of the year, the forecasts are moderately positive. According to the APICCAPS short-term analysis bulletin, companies are anticipating an improvement of the state of businesses, based on the increase of orders placed and of production, and on a general upwards trend of prices both in Portugal and abroad.

PORTUGUESE SHOES “ON FIRE”

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While Portugal is increasingly becoming a worldwide reference in the women’s and children’s footwear segments, it is in the demanding men’s market that Portugal is actually producing the best shoes in the world.

With stingray, salmon, crocodile or kangaroo-hide footwear, Portuguese companies continue to surprise in the international markets. Irreverent proposals by companies that join a know-how accumulated over several generations to state-of-the-art technologies, allowing them to present footwear of excellence at highly competitive prices.

Europeans, and chiefly the Germans, French, Spanish and Swiss, are those who favour this footwear segment the most. But the quality of Portuguese luxury footwear is also arousing great interest in countries like Angola, Japan and Russia.

For Carlos Santos, a brand that is an international reference in the manufacture of men’s footwear, “the strategy involves offering a unique product, from the quality of the materials used to the minutia of the tasks performed by each collaborator in the production of a more comfortable and timeless shoe, always following the fashion trends,” said Raquel Santos. To that end, the Carlos Santos shoes “make use of an irreproachable industrial component, with the best Goodyear welt construction system techniques,” resulting in high-quality footwear.

Staking its claim in the international markets, Profession: Bottier has been producing footwear of excellence for the past six decades. “Know-how, quality and first-class service are strong arguments for men’s footwear companies to stand out in the global market,” stressed Ruben Avelar. To this is added a “highly discerning selection of all raw materials, especially the leathers.”

“We specialize in the production of men’s footwear, in a classic segment,” said Rui Pontes. Cruz de Pedra “favours the use of noble, high-quality materials.” “When it comes to value for money, Portugal is unbeatable,” he said.

Centenário is another Portuguese brand of reference. After several decades investing in the Portuguese internal market, it successfully turned its attention to the foreign markets. According to Domingos José, “Portugal is a reference in the men’s footwear segment because it has highly competent technicians, with year and even decades of experience.”

THE BESTSHOES IN THE WORLD

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peoplepeople

TEAM

They are Portuguese,

they work abroad, and they take our national

colours to the main capitals of fashion. We bring you seven figures who

reveal their projects and reminisce about their summers in Portugal.

by Manuel Arnaut

Andreia Tavares, journalist at the FFW website, São Paulo.

“Friends, dinners at the esplanades of Alfama, seafood by the beach, warm nights. This is my summer in Portugal.”

The fact that she lives in Brazil is not the only reason why her story would make an excellent plot for a soap-opera. While she was still living in Portugal, working in advertising (“Yes, I was an ad person!”), Andreia Tavares’s professional path crossed with her boyfriend’s, a Paulistano colleague who worked in the same agency. Four years later, “when Brazil was on a high and Europe in crisis,” the couple decided to move to the up-and-coming São Paulo. How was her arrival? “The city is, undoubtedly, very competitive, but the market is red-hot and new opportunities appear every day. São Paulo values each person’s individual talent and creativity very much.”Despite the many bureaucracies, Andreia couldn’t have been better received by the Brazilian fashion industry. All it took was a “very honest e-mail” to the editor of the FFW website for the journalist to become part of the online team of the organization that puts together the largest fashion week in Latin America. “FFW is a great place to work, with an excellent atmosphere,” says Andreia Tavares. “I love to cover fashion weeks and interview people with interesting life histories, even if they aren’t famous. Despite it being, at times, stressful and arduous work, it is good to know that we are, in a way, the eyes of the world.”

She is part of a new generation of Portuguese creatives who do not fool around when it comes to business. Born in a northern family involved in the textile industry, Ana Teixeira de Sousa, aged 25, has always had the fashion bug. However, when she left Porto for London, she sought training in the field of business. “Since I was a little girl, I would love to go to the factory and look at the fabrics, be a part of it, have things made for me... I only studied business because my mother insisted. She would say it was the starting point for everything.”This turned out to be the right option, because when the opportunity arose, Ana established, with her family’s support, the Sophia Kah luxury brand, which produces delicate night gowns. It is a label that, despite being relatively unknown to the Portuguese, is available in boutiques like Feathers, in London, and at other points of sale in Dubai, Saudi Arabia, Russia and Ireland. And it is worth noting that Sophia Kah is only on its third collection! “We started making children’s clothing and are about to invest in ready-to-wear, but the brand has always been focused on evening and cocktail wear. It is what gives me the most satisfaction and, in terms of strategy, it is easier to be directed at that target. London is a very big influence for me because people dress up for dinner as if they were going to a party. I think I carried that bohemian spirit to the brand.”

Ana Teixeira de Sousa, creative director and founder of Sophia Kah, London.

“Summer is synonymous with endless days in the Algarve.”

people

Born in a family connected to the fashion business since the 1960s, António Branco has also been a part of that universe since he was a teenager. The fashion design course, from IADE, and the opening of his first store, at age 18, happened with the ease of someone continuing a family tradition. However, even with his brand available at several points of sale, “the perspectives for expansion in Portugal in the field of fashion seemed very limited and far from my international aspirations,” he says.Without any organized plan of action, or even a list of contacts, António Branco decided to try his luck in New York, which he considers to have been “an adventure with a happy ending.” “The city always fascinated me and, since my first visit, I felt at home. To my surprise, the American market appeared to be a lot more open to new talent than what I had imagined. After six months, my first major project came about. It was a style consultancy job for the world campaign of Guess Jeans. This job got me visibility as a stylist and opened doors to me.” With his career on the move, it was followed by consultancies with brands like Pepe Jeans and Rugby Ralph Lauren, editorials shot by major photographers in magazines like Elle, L’Officiel and Harper’s Bazaar, and collaborations with superstars like Brad Pitt, Salma Hayek, Vincent Cassel, Jessica Biel, Anne Hathaway, Ewan McGregor, and many others. Now, living between New York and São Paulo, and after seeing his productions in several Condé Nast publications, António Branco is collaborating more regularly with GQ Brasil. “Currently, I am working as the magazine’s fashion editor, although I’m doing it as a consultant. The idea is to train a Brazilian fashion team to take over my position starting next year,” he says. And what about coming back to Portugal? “It will happen in the near future and I am only waiting for a tempting offer. It is in our country that I dream to spend the rest of my life.”

António Branco, fashion producer, São Paulo and New York.

“Summer is the time to see old friends and family, get reacquainted with our wonderful gastronomy and recharge our batteries in some of the best beaches in the world.”

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Kiko Gaspar, international PR coordinator and events manager for Vivienne Westwood, London. “Summer in Portugal is synonymous with finding myself. Afterwards, I feel that I am once again ready to stand up to the world.”

Dealing with the main directors of big magazines, ensuring the correct use of the company’s communication policies in all Vivienne Westwood offices worldwide, and organizing the brand’s events and shows in London, Paris and Milan are nothing less than ordinary everyday tasks at Kiko Gaspar’s office. The PR coordinator’s arrival in London happened after a small tour of Europe, which began with a year of Erasmus Programme in Ljubljana, Slovenia. That was followed by a four-year period working as Vivienne Westwood’s PR manager at the Milan Office, until Kiko’s recent move to London. “I had been wanting to come to this city for a long time, and it happened when the company gave me a promotion and transferred me to the head office. From all the places I have lived in, London was the one to which I adapted the easiest. The city is very rational and logical and, besides, I had great friends here,” he says.Despite London being one of the most talked-about capitals of fashion, Kiko still think it has a way to go. “Worldwide, it is the most creative place, but it is also the most disorganized. Based on my experience in Paris and Milan, I think London still has a lot to evolve.”

A voice inside told her there was nothing for her in Portugal and, without hesitation, Filipa Bleck bought a one-way ticket to Paris, packed her bags and went. That trip happened over twenty years ago, but the new catwalk talent recruiter still remembers her arrival to the French capital, where she took full advantage from being Portuguese. “First, I worked with Odile Sarron, casting director for Elle magazine, who taught me a lot. However, three months later, I decided to look for an agency. When I went to my first interview, at Marylin, I was seen by Marilyn Gauthier herself, the owner. When I told her that the foreign language I was better at was Portuguese, she said that no one in the fashion business spoke that language. Little did she know that two years later the phenomenon of Brazilian supermodels would burst into scene.”With the market on her side, Filipa Bleck worked with big names like Fernanda Tavares, Isabeli Fontana, Caroline Ribeiro and Letícia Birkheuer, having also managed Kate Moss, Helena Christensen, Carla Bruni and Stella Tennant. Afterwards, she moved to Elite Model Management, where she was booking director and, later, head of the New Faces department. “It is usually the other way around, but after 20 years managing the careers of the ‘big names’, I preferred to develop new talents.”Currently, Filipa Bleck is working on the Elite agency competitions in African countries like Angola, Mozambique and Cape Verde, where the most recent fashion talents that have been catching everyone’s attention are discovered. “It is working out very well, and I already have Angolan Roberta Narciso modelling on the major international catwalks.

Filipa Bleck, Elite Model Management, Paris.

“Summer in Portugal is salt on the skin, snacks and laughter!”

people

They are the new sensation of the editorial world and proof of the power of the internet. Established in 2011, at the hands of journalist Filipe Fangueiro and designer Paulo Meixedo, DSECTION Magazine began as a promising online portal devoted exclusively to male fashion. The intention was never to move on to paper, “because of all the difficulties involved with it,” but when we are faced with a true fashion fairytale, it changes the rules of the game. “Sometimes we are in the right place at the right time. In Paris, we met Nicola Formichetti and showed him our online project. He offered to collaborate with us. Without a predetermined goal, we realized we could create something on print because we had Nicola as our trump card. He ended up being the first cover.”More than a trump card, the creative director of Thierry Mugler and Lady Gaga’s stylist proved to be a real lucky charm. Written in English and distributed in the main capitals of Fashion, in stores like Colette, the first edition of DSECTION sold out after only two days in New York.At a time when the Portuguese editorial market is facing some difficulties, the bi-monthly publication is cruising along “without a hitch.” It has collaborators from all around the world and is filled with fashion editorial produced both in Portugal and abroad. “We invested in something different and with a lot of quality, both in terms of content and of the printing materials. We cannot leave any detail unchecked. We are working with the major luxury brands, and they only invest in what they really want. For now, everything is going well and as expected,” Paulo Meixedo assures us.

”Paulo Meixedo and Filipe Fangueiro, founders of DSECTION Magazine, Portugal.

“Summer in Portugal is synonymous with work. For us, it is time to prepare for the great September edition.”

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The Portuguese leather products sector is going through an extremely positive period. In 2011, exports grew over 40% to over 55 million euros. In the European market, in countries like Germany, France, Italy and Spain, sales have increased 56%. Outside of Europe, a growth of 24% has been registered, mostly in Angola, Morocco and Saudi Arabia. What is certain is that Portuguese leather products are literally in fashion and gaining ground internationally. Quality, service and responsiveness appear to be the key elements.

“We are witnessing several interesting market trends. Major brands that used to produce in countries like China or India are now producing in Portugal,” Ana Maria Vasconcelos highlighted. The reasons? “There are many,” said the director of Belcinto. First of all, “these countries’ reality is changing very rapidly and very significantly.” That is the case of Tunisia. “All major brands that used to produce in Northern Africa are now developing their collections in Portugal,” she offered. But there are other explanations. “Business is getting more difficult for all economic operators and in China, currently, it is no longer possible to produce small quantities.” At the end of the day, “the brands choose to risk less and conduct their business with greater certainty.”

But what does Portugal have to offer? Carla Sousa assures that “Portuguese companies have specialized in the production of high-quality apparel and provide an efficient and particularly fast service.” For the representative of Ceancarel, “these are clear advantages over the major international competitors, like China.” What is missing, then, for Portuguese leather products to reach new levels of competitiveness and, especially, to become an international reference? “We have to invest more than ever on the image and promotion of our companies,” Carla Sousa stressed.

MAJOR BRANDS CHOOSE PORTUGAL

Leather products

Armani. Boss. Camel. Chanel. Dior. Kenzo. Versace. Pick a name. In this case, it doesn’t matter. Is it an internationally renowned brand? Then know that it’s very likely it has chosen Portugal to develop and produce its accessories.

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internationalization

WHA

T’S

UP

Bo-bell® launches waterproof footwear

Bo-bell, which participated in MICAM for the first time in March, is going to launch a children’s line of waterproof footwear. “This line has high-quality waterproof leather, a waterproof-breathable internal membrane, natural fur lining to keep the feet warm and a removable interior sole for greater comfort,” Fernando Lima said.According to the company’s representative, “the idea is to guarantee the dynamism, the irreverence of children in the outdoors, even on rainy or snowy days. Bo-bell® defines itself as “a brand of children’s footwear that is happy, colourful, urban, stylish, original, dynamic, irreverent, light, flexible, outgoing and fun.”

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The history of the brand goes back to 1993, when “Always Shoes” was established. It was on 2003 that Paulo Martins, the company’s founder, made a decisive bet on the Catarina Martins brand. Today, it is one of the main references of Portuguese footwear in the international markets. With three stores in Portugal, another one in Cagliari, Sardegna, In Italy, the next step is to invest on another point of sale in Italy, more specifically in Milan, in 2013. The bet on the men’s segment also began earlier this year, at Pitti Uomo, in Florence, and the results are very encouraging.

Catarina Martins invests in Italy

Catarina Martins is a brand “targeted at women with a youthful and dynamic spirit who appreciate fashion, quality and comfort. It is made from choice materials, with special care and dedication. That is why each piece is unique and labelled as “shoes made in region of Oporto – Portugal”, Paulo Martins highlighted. Available in mid-range to high-end stores in Europe, in countries like Germany, Belgium, Denmark and France, but also in the United States and in Japan, the Catarina Martins brand seeks to “widen the customer base, always keeping in mind that, more important than markets A, B or C, are the opportunities that present themselves. We are very selective in our bets, and that is why Italy is our primary market. It is a calling card to the world,” he said.

Paulo Martins thinks that “the retail sector is going through a lot of changes.” That’s reason enough for Catarina Martins to invest in the creation of an online store. “Online sales have been having a remarkable growth, and it will become a consistent bet for brands and companies,” he said.

Men’s brand – Bernardo M

Having consolidated the Catarina Martins brand in the women’s fashion segment, Always Shoes has just launched the Bernardo M brand, with the sole responsibility of the creative director Maria Lemos. The launch took place in Florence, at Pitti Uomo, and feedback was “extremely positive.” “ We went forward with a fashion brand to a mid-high segment, with eight different lines and targeted at international markets. The response has been very good and, by next September, the Bernardo M brand will be on sale in high-end stores in various locations around the world.”

internationalization

Dark Collection renewed to attract new customers

Created in 2008, Dark Collection is Mazoni’s big bet to surprise international markets. According to Pedro Sampaio, a representative of the company, “[Dark Collection] is a brand with a young and cutting-edge image that relies on the quality of its products and of its collections as a major added value to attract new markets and customers.” The next challenge is to attract new markets.

In 2012, the image of Dark Collection is being reformulated. “After a few years of maturation, we verified that the image did not reflect the dynamism and irreverence of the collections presented, and decided to renew it so that there is a greater identification between the product and the brand.” Therefore and despite already being present in some European countries, “the brand’s goal is to reinforce its presence in so-called traditional markets, like Germany, Denmark, Spain, France and Italy, and penetrate new markets with enormous potential, namely in Eastern Europe and Asia.”

Still during this year, Mazoni is planning to invest in the national market. “Despite the economic difficulties that have been felt in Portugal and a little throughout Europe, we decided that we should also invest in Portugal,” Pedro Sampaio said.

Cindicalfe reinforces productive capacity

Cindicalfe, a company established in 1997 and highly specialized in the production of comfort footwear, is reinforcing its productive capacity. In 2011, it invested in the enhancement of infrastructures, namely by doubling the size of its production unit and warehouse, and hired 30 new professionals.“We believe that customers seek companies more than brands or products,” highlighted André Oliveira, the company’s representative. For that reason, “Cindicalfe decided to make this enhancement.” At the same time, the company, headquartered in Pedorido, purchased new production equipment (a second assembly line, additional cutting and stitching machinery), updated its management software and invested in a new showroom. The goal of the company, owner of the Flex & Go brand, is “to combine technology and tradition, thereby creating shoes that move in perfect harmony between comfort and design.”

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Carité Group invests on a new brand

It is one of the largest entrepreneurial groups of Portuguese footwear. With headquarters in Felgueiras, it employs 200 people and exports almost 100% of its production to the most demanding international markets. In order to achieve new levels of excellence, the Carité Group has just launched Lunaplena, a sophisticated women’s footwear brand which will hit the market next September.

“Lunaplena is an elegant brand of footwear for cosmopolitan women, which will have refined models with an modern and contemporary design, using quality raw materials and excellent finishing details,” said Reinaldo Teixeira, CEO of the Carité Group. During this first stage, Lunaplena will target Latin markets, like Spain, France and Portugal. With the investment on Lunaplena, the Carité Group expands its portfolio of brands, complementing Tem Toes, a young unisex footwear brand, currently being sold all over Europe and in Japan.

Major growth in 2011

After having grown by 20% in 2011, the Carité Group expects to maintain a positive performance this year. “We are a versatile company that subcontracts to an average of 12 other companies, with highly-specialized technicians, capable of producing different types of shoes – for men, women and children – and which continues to deserve the trust of large international brands,” Reinaldo Teixeira highlighted. 2012 “will be a very demanding year, but we expect to at least consolidate the results achieved in the latest fiscal year,” he said. One of the peculiarities of Carité is the way they win over demanding customers who even recently used to produce in Italy. “In Portugal, we are more flexible, the quality of our work is excellent and we offer a very competitive price. We are only missing Italy’s image, but even in that field we have been gaining ground. Our image used to be kilometres behind Italy’s, but today it’s only a few metres,” he explained.

The Carité Group will continue giving priority to the European market. “Our business model is based on quick response and we are in a privileged position to respond to a demanding European market.” However, new markets are already under consideration. “We are keeping our eye out for new opportunities, and so we are conducting some exploratory work in new markets with high potential levels, like China and Russia.”

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WHAT’S UP

Ambitious turns to Eastern Europe

2012 is expected to be a particularly demanding year. More than ever, companies’ creativity will play a decisive role in reaching new levels of competitiveness. For Ambitious, investing in new markets is a strategic priority. With Eastern Europe on the horizon.

“Slovenia. Lithuania. Serbia. Romania. Russia. Eastern Europe is definitely emerging as an interesting market, because it wants new, fresh products. That is precisely what Ambitious has to offer,” Pedro Ramos highlighted. Basically, for the marketing representative of Ambitious, “consumption is decreasing in traditional European markets,” which is why companies should “strengthen their investment on new markets.”

From a communication point of view, the brand relies on a strong and suggestive image. “We wanted to surprise. We want to affirm our difference with an aggressive, masculine image that fundamentally shows the public the kind of product we produce,” he said.

Portuguese Tatuaggi sets its sights on China

Established 16 years ago by José Alberto Silva, Tatuaggi has been claiming its status as a Portuguese footwear company with international impact. China is a strong bet and, over the last year, the company opened three stores there, namely in Suzhou, Shanghai and Hefei. By 2014, 17 new points of sale may appear.

“We have been participating in trade fairs in China and surveying this market for 12 years. It is time to start reaping what we sowed,” José Alberto said to Lusa news agency. Tatuaggi’s most recent store opened last April in a shopping centre in Hefei, capital of the Anhui Province in China and, by the end of the year, Alberto Silva is expecting to open two more in Shanghai and another in Tianjin, in the north of the country: “We have a department in the company devoted exclusively to China.”

China is the largest producer of footwear worldwide, but José Alberto Silva is not afraid of the competition: “We have our own design, which is 50% high-tech and 50% artisanal,” he says, explaining that “life is made of equilibrium.”

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Metro Sneakers: for skiing in style

A market niche with several million potential clients, especially in Northern Europe. At GDS, Armando Silva launched Aprés Sky Sneakers, a line of footwear especially directed at skiers. There are over four million people in Germany, Belgium, the Netherlands and the United Kingdom that regularly ski. And the offer of innovating products with design and technical characteristics capable of keeping the feet warm is very limited.

The various Aprés Sky Sneakers models were named after ski resorts from all over the world, and response to them has been very interesting. “The response has been good and there is a lot of curiosity,” said Manuel Silva. According to this representative of the company which employs 80 people and, over the last year, registered a turnover of around 3.5 million euros, 20,000 pairs of Aprés Sky Sneakers shoes may be sold this year.

The brand was born out of a partnership with former Dutch international football player Pierre van Hooijdonk and is targeted at luxury sports shoes consumers, such as professional athletes, DJs and fashion aficionados.” As a curiosity, the response to the new brand led Armando Silva to begin producing women’s footwear for the first time after six decades in the market.

Trofal invests in environmentally friendly products

One of the oldest companies in Benedita, Trofal is investing in the production of environmentally friendly footwear in order to reinforce its penetration in the foreign markets, which already absorb over 85% of its production.

Chromium-free leathers and solvent-free adhesives are a strong bet of the company specialized in the development of technical footwear, namely for security forces, and prefers biodegradable and recycled materials to create stitched boots and shoes, with cold-moulded insoles, in what is a mostly manual process.

Trofal is launching its Natur Troofs brand and will add a “vegan” label to a small part of its collection that is free from any type of animal-origin products. “We try to guide our business according to the market demands and meet the niches,” said Luís Couto, the company’s administrator.

Olhamar broadens horizons

It is already on the third generation and just celebrated its 40th anniversary. Olhamar is, however, younger than even. It specialized in the production of belts and other luxury fashion accessories, specifically for major international brands, and it is preparing to face new challenges. With confidence. “We have been committed since early on to the production of belts with high added value,” Manuel Ramalho said, especially destined to the Portuguese market. Currently, the company produces more than two thousand belts each day - with a stock of over five thousand distinct models - and has a presence in more than ten different markets. “We started exporting in the eighties,” he highlighted. Exports have even increased 36% in 2011. Numbers that are, nevertheless, insufficient. The priority, now, is to diversify the export base and enter new markets. For that to happen, Olhamar has compelling arguments. “We are flexible, we invest heavily in development and our service is beyond reproach.” For this reason, time has also arrived to invest in other market segments. “We are taking advantage of our internal skills to develop and produce other fashion accessories, like bags and purses,” said the company’s representative. The first reaction was “excellent, because we have the internal skills to execute small orders very quickly.”

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NAE: Ecological footwear with an open path to internationalization

It is a universal trend. Veganism is a broad philosophy that not only encompasses eating habits, but also the refusal of exploitation, abstaining from the use of all animal products. Inspired by this ideology, two Portuguese entrepreneurs decided to revolutionize the concept and apply it to footwear. NAE - No Animal Exploitation - is a Portuguese company that produces and sells vegan, animal-friendly shoes.

The idea for the project came to Paula Pérez and Alex Pérez in 2008, when they realized that it was “possible to start a business based on the principle that it is not necessary to exploit non-human animals to live, contrary to what happens with most current businesses.”

Allying ethics to a creative approach, the mentors of NAE proposed a footwear alternative “for people who live by this philosophy, who don’t consume any kind of animal products and, therefore, don’t wear leather.”

Sandals, boots, trainers and even high-heeled shoes are part of the brand’s diversified offer. They all have in common the fact that they are manufactured “with components that are not derived from animals and by a process that minimizes its impact on the environment.”

The commercialization of NAE footwear is made predominantly online, through the brand’s official website, but also in stores. Most customers are foreign, particularly from Germany, Austria, Spain and the United Kingdom.

Cork inspires creation of Rutz

It was born in 2012 and it allies two of the most representative sectors of the Portuguese economy - footwear and cork. Rutz seeks to set itself apart by its design and use of colour, and already has the international markets in its sights.

“The name [which is pronounced ‘roots’] refers us to the Portuguese origins and traditions that are a source of inspiration to our various collections,” said Raquel Castro, the brand’s Executive Director. On the other hand, “it evokes the routes or paths we take towards a better future: the choice of an eco-friendly material, the concern with lightness and comfort.” Generically, Rutz wants to bring opposing concepts together, “past and future, tradition and modernity, which is the result of a very contemporary trend: rurbanism.”

Rutz wants “to make women fall in love with the reinvention of cork, introducing colour and design to urban, sexy, youthful and sophisticated footwear.” The initial goal included only the Portuguese domestic market. However, the “response to the brand has been excellent and the first international contacts have already begun.” “We will be investing in the foreign markets a lot sooner than we had initially anticipated,” confessed Raquel Castro.

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For Sílvia Marinho, from Savana, “the number of customers requesting tests (which in the children’s segment are very demanding), declarations, contracts and related documents is always increasing, which results from the growing requirements made by (mostly) European environmental-protection legislation, and also by the consumers. Production in Europe is, beyond any doubt, the one that provides the most safeguards and Portugal is one of the countries that offer the best value for money.” Fernando Silva, from Bo-bell, assures that “the proximity to European markets, the decrease of large series orders and the credit constraints contributed to the return of orders that had been sourced to Northern African and Asian countries.”But exactly what can Portuguese companies specialized in children’s footwear offer the markets?

“We place extreme importance on the details. Our shoes have outstanding characteristics when it comes to comfort, but are also interesting from a design point of view,” says Savana’s commercial representative. To the contemporaneity of the collections, Fernando Silva adds the “careful choice of materials, the ergonomic concerns, the production flexibility and the guarantee of meeting delivery deadlines.” In addition to all this, there’s the “product reliability, price, the proximity to the centre of Europe and the existence of a true productive centre that aggregates skills, partners and suppliers.

Portugal exported, in 2011, five million pairs of children’s shoes, worth 98 million euros. Comparatively to the previous fiscal year, it represents a growth of 7% in quantity and 17% in value. What factors contributed to this growth? APICCAPS heard from some specialists.

FOR CHILDREN WITH STYLE

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An original concept that associates her art to an exclusive line of footwear. Each shoe is connected to a work by the painter. The combination between the painting and the footwear results in different and personalized designs.

The products’ innovation lies on the way the art pieces are exuberantly merged with fashion and footwear items, promoting new emotions in new market fringes. Currently, the brand already has thirteen collections, each based on a painting or on the illustration of a theme, and each made up of different models of shoes, bags, belts and scarves.

Production of these items is assured by three national factories and, at present, limited-edition collections are being produced for specific regions and events. The company has three points of sale, in Lisbon, Porto and Barcelona, and soon in Amsterdam. A promotion and dissemination campaign is ongoing in various urban centres, in Portugal and abroad, like in Asia, where collections were presented in Macau and in Hong Kong, and in Africa, namely in Angola.

SHOES THAT ARE A WORK OF

ART ON SHOES is artist Alexandra Prieto’s new brand

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JUST LIKE HEAVENphoto: frederico martins

STYLING: FERNANDO BASTOS PEREIRA

shoes-CENTURYdouble breasted wool jacket , shirt and trousers-JÚLIO TORCATOnecklace-TOPMANlace collar stylists studio

shoes-SHOES CLOSETsilk jumpsuit-NUNO BALTAZARleather gloves and necklaces stylists studio

boots-EXCEEDwool jacket with leather sleeves ,quilted vest and wool trousers-JULIO TORCATOshirt collar with stud-BROMLEYSskull pin-TOPMANvintage sunglasses

shoes-BASILIUSsilk dress and leather gloves-NUNO BALTAZARnecklaces stylists studio

shoes-LUIS ONOFREwool jacket and skirt-LUIS BUCHINHOshirt collar with stud-BROMLEYSgold metal wave ring-UTERQUEgold metal necklace , bracelet and ring stylists studio

wool and fur jacket with leather sleeves and wool skirt-LUIS BUCHINHOleather clutch-HELSARstrass , resin and metal bangles-UTERQUE

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ankle boots-XUZwool and rubber bomber jacket and silk skirt-DIOGO MIRANDAnecklace stylists studio

sneaker boots-METRO SNEAKERSnylon kilt and rubber t-shirt-ELISABETH TEIXEIRAleather and metal cuffs-UTERQUE

wool jacket and skirt-LUIS BUCHINHOshirt collar with stud-BROMLEYSgold metal wave ring-UTERQUEgold metal necklace , bracelet and ring stylists studio

ankle boots and leather clutch-HELSARwool and fur jacket with leather sleeves and wool skirt-LUIS BUCHINHOleather clutch-HELSARstrass , resin and metal bangles-UTERQUE

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FREDERICO MARTINSFERNANDO BASTOS PEREIRA PAULO GONÇALVES ''APICCAPS''PATRÍCIA LIMARUI ROCHA with senscience Shiseido PEDRO SÁNELSON LIMAMARTA FONSECA RESENDEHELENA ALMEIDAJULIA E LOURENÇO ''ELITE LISBON''LALALANDSTUDIOS

patent leather bag-LUIS ONOFREsilk dress-DIOGO MIRANDAleather gloves-NUNO BALTAZARnecklaces-stylists studio

Inspires designers

“Dressing Fado” is the theme of Miguel Vieira’s collection for next winter. “We have fadistas that were wonderful in the past, like Amália Rodrigues, Carlos do Carmo or Carlos Paredes and now a new generation of performers is emerging with an entirely new image, and which has been projecting the name of Portugal beyond its borders,” explained the designer born in São João da Madeira.

Cubanas, one of the strongest brands in Portuguese footwear, launched a special edition as a homage to Fado, which was recently added to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. The official presentation took place during GDS. The limited and exclusive special edition includes a pair of shoes and a bag that stand out for the careful selection of noble, national materials, such as leather, cork and wood, with a black and copper colour palette.

Still on the catwalks, Luís Buchinho took inspiration from Portuguese calçada pavement in the development of his new collection. Combining natural and synthetic materials, as well as knitted fabrics, and with a range of colours that goes from black and strong blues to stone hues and white, the silhouettes follow the lines of the body and accentuate the narrow waists. In an interplay of geometric shapes, Luís Buchinho’s designs continue to give women a unique touch of sophistication, elegance and femininity.

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Cock of Barcelos. Portuguese calçada pavement. Fado. Lovers’ handkerchiefs. What do these things have in common? They are all symbols of Portuguese culture, and they are the inspiration, more than ever, behind the work of national brands and designers.

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interview

Francisco Maria Balsemão is trained as an engineer and is president, since 2009, of ANJE - National Association of Young Entrepreneurs -, the entity in charge of organizing Portugal Fashion, a platform for the promotion and dissemination of the work of the Portuguese textile and footwear industry and designers, directed at national and international markets. Portuguese Shoes discovered more about this entrepreneur’s projects to help create better structures for a brighter future for Portuguese fashion.

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The Show Must Go On

Another edition of Portugal Fashion, a platform organized by the entity you preside over, ANJE, took place in March. How have you been seeing the evolution of this event throughout the last few years, regarding the promotion of Portuguese fashion?

The evolution is clearly positive. Each edition comes with the need to create a new energy, a sense of vitality and innovation. In recent years, Portugal Fashion reinforced its national and international reputation; it continued to generate synergies with the sectors of clothing and footwear; it supported the internationalization of several designers, like Anabela Baldaque, Luís Buchinho, Miguel Vieira and Storytailors; it contributed to the consolidation of the international careers of Fátima Lopes, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Ana Salazar and Alves/Gonçalves. It made a bet on the renovation of national fashion with new designers - the success of Espaço BLOOM is an example of that - and we can already mention names like Estelita Mendonça, Susana Bettencourt, Hugo Costa, Andreia Lexim and Daniela Barros; and it stimulated its commercial component with the opening of showrooms in Portugal and abroad. Today, it is an event with a relevance for national fashion that extends beyond borders, and its organizational, promotional and endorsement efficiency is recognized both by those who are part of the industry and by policy makers, as well as by public opinion and the media.

The most recent edition marked the return of this platform to Lisbon, as had happened in 2008. Is Portugal Fashion’s desire to always include in its programme catwalk shows held in the capital?

As we explained at the time, holding shows in Lisbon was an exception to the itinerant approach that Portugal Fashion took for many of its past editions. For this 30th edition of the event, is seemed pertinent to conduct a charm offensive from the Portuguese capital, programming four catwalk shows (two of which double features) with auteur fashion, but very diverse and including different generations of designers.Lisbon is, in fact, a platform where different cultures and skills cross paths, where many of those interested in our country focus, and where creative dynamics, capable of seducing the world, are generated. In that sense, our presence in the Portuguese capital served the goal of strengthening our project of promoting national designers’ creations, as part of the innovating dynamics and cosmopolitan nature of Portugal Fashion.

Does this mean that it will not happen again?

We shall see…

There is a large gap between the industry and the designers. A kind of fear, by those who can manufacture, in investing on those who have the creative skills. What could be done to create synergies between these two sectors, to create, once and for all, a base for solid export performances, so that Portuguese fashion takes a step towards achieving the international visibility it deserves?

I do not agree with the idea that there is a “large gap between the industry and the designers.” In fact, the most competitive companies of the textiles, clothing and footwear sectors have in-house design departments where several professionals develop collections for the brands. Of course, many of these designers don’t have a high profile, but their work is extremely valuable and a critical factor for competitiveness, especially in foreign markets. The existence of these in-house design departments shows that the industry is, in fact, investing in creative skills. The entrepreneurs and managers of the sector are aware that, to outperform global competitors, and in particular those from emerging economies, it is fundamental to consolidate their brands with quality products and design that is attentive, modern, and in line with international trends.

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Which project would you like to implement in the short term to help Portuguese fashion?

Our intention, in the short term, is to create the conditions for more Portuguese designers to present their collections in major international fashion events (both catwalk shows and showrooms). In this context, our ambition is for young designers from Espaço BLOOM to gain international experience, as happened with Susana Bettencourt, who, on March 19, presented her 2012 spring/summer collection in Malaysia, with Portugal Fashion’s support.

The main catwalk programme has been improving in the latest editions, although there are still some imbalances. Are there any changes planned, or do you want to maintain this programme?

As you may have noticed, some designers and brands have evolved significantly from one edition to the next. And this is also one of the goals of Portugal Fashion: to give time and conditions to the participants of the event to evolve, both in terms of design and in terms of catwalk presentation of the collections. Having said this, it’s important to remember that Portugal Fashion has always been a very diverse event. The catwalk programme includes auteur fashion, commercial lines and more experimental designs. Additionally, collections by established creators and brands share the catwalk with up-and-coming stylists and young designers. This diversity can, sometimes, generate imbalances, but to us, it is one of the great merits of Portugal Fashion.

After the shows, the organization talks with the designers/brands about the result of the collections presented, if they don’t live up to expectations. Or is the creative line-up never put into question?

After each edition, we try to promote an internal reflection on the way the catwalk shows went. However, we don’t think it is right to reproach this or that brand or designer because of the collections they presented, if that were the case. We are primarily responsible for all the shows and, in almost 20 years of Portugal Fashion, there hasn’t been a single show that has embarrassed us or put into question the quality of the event. On the other hand, the brands and the designers are invited by us, on the assumption that they have the freedom to create their collections in any way they see fit. It would be at the very least inelegant to invite them and then impose aesthetic criteria on their collections.

As we know, due to its more exclusive nature, auteur fashion faces greater difficulties to be produced in larger quantities and to promote widespread demand. However, there are auteur fashion designers that developed more commercial lines, like Luís Buchinho, who, during the latest edition of Portugal Fashion, presented his Knitwear brand, and Storytailors with their Narkë brand. With this capacity for being multifaceted, designers can more easily have their collections produced with quality and distributed in foreign markets thanks to partnerships within the industry. This way, we can reconcile the interests of the industry with those of the designers, who, with their commercial lines, not only get greater financial gains from their activity, but also promote their auteur collections

Portugal Fashion has shown a lot of maturity in the search of new talents by creating the Bloom platform. What return do you think these young designers are having from those who can produce their creations?

For now, the young designers of Espaço BLOOM are developing auteur fashion and are still consolidating their work methods, their aesthetic languages, and their ways of presentation on the catwalk. At the same time, there’s an effort on their part to place their pieces in multi-brand boutiques and in other very specific points of sale. Once this maturing process is completed, it is foreseeable that the industry and purchasing agents will take an interest in the works of these new designers, which in some cases already show remarkable quality. In this context, the purpose of Espaço BLOOM is precisely to promote these new designers’ creations to a specialized audience.

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Endless creativity. Magical colour. Raw talent. Once again, Portugal Fashion revealed itself to be a platform of excellence for the promotion of “made in Portugal” fashion. On the catwalk, experienced designers like Alves/Gonçalves, Ana Salazar, Filipe Oliveira Batista, Luís Buchinho and Miguel Vieira coexisted with promising talents like Estelita Mendonça, Hugo Costa and Fernando Lopes. Espaço Bloom was a prominent feature, displaying the excellence of new designers.

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The footwear sector was also, once again, one of the highlights of Portugal Fashion. In fact, several creators, like Felipe Oliveira Baptista and Luís Buchinho, invested in partnerships with footwear companies and were able to present richer, broader, and more comprehensive fashion concepts. Luís Onofre emerged, once and for all, as one of the big names of Portuguese fashion, and his catwalk show was again one of the most highly anticipated.

Also featured were the proposals of six of the most representative brands of the footwear sector (Atelier do Sapato, Cohibas, DKODE, Fly London, Nobrand and Silvia Rebatto).

Atelier do Sapato presented vintage masculinity as the main theme for the 2012 winter season. Men’s classics, like army boots, zip-up boots and shoes were redesigned with a more contemporary and elegant style. Punch holes, relief engraving, colour contrast, combining materials, layering and buckle straps are details that can be seen throughout the collection.

With an “avant-garde” style, Cohibas has been staking its claim in the international markets, reinventing classical models and adapting them to the new trends in the men’s market. The Cohibas models are characterized by their great versatility in classic, urban and casual lines.

The new DKODE collection, however, took inspiration from the urban rhapsody. The combination of different cultures, aesthetics and life styles is ever more common. The past and the future merge in an alternative present.

“Always progressive, never conventional,” Fly London’s collection reflects its 1960s, 70s and 80s inspiration and is characterized by the combination of different materials and finishing techniques, including dyeing and washing of finished shoes.

Young and modern, Nobrand is one of the Portuguese footwear brands with the greatest international visibility. For next winter, they present unconventional proposals, with free-spirited and bohemian influences.

Returning to Portugal Fashion after several years of absence, Silvia Rebatto surprises with very feminine proposals, in a mixture of irreverence and fantasy that is marked by simplicity and good taste.

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Fernando Cabral

One of his first modelling jobs was for H&M’s worldwide campaign. Since then, he has been unstoppable and is the star of editorials in the most highly respected magazines in the world.

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It is a phenomenon that arrived faster to other areas than to fashion, but after decades of interaction between Portugal and the various African countries, the scene seems to finally be changing. From music to gastronomy, the cultural encounter is evermore intense and, naturally, this exchange has also arrived to fashion. After the presentation of next winter’s collection has been taken by storm by excellent African models, there are no more doubts: Fernando Cabral, Djedi, and elegant gazelles like Sharam, Maria Borges, Mauza, Maura, Adelia and Elsa are the names of the hour.

The first participation of African models in national fashion dates back to the days when the Miss Portugal competition was the ideal recruitment ground for new talents. The competition was a truly national event and the winner would, overnight, become a celebrity and a muse for the main designers. Born in Moçâmedes, Angola, Riquita won the crown in 1971 and became the first major African ambassador on the Portuguese catwalks. Meanwhile, as Portugal took its first steps towards plurality in its paradigms of beauty, a decade had already passed since, in 1962, Yves Saint Laurent had started to include black models in his shows and campaigns.

Despite names like Júlia Schönberg, muse of Jean Paul Gaultier, and Sofia Baessa, whose mother was Mozambican, having left their mark on the history of national fashion, the presence of African models on our catwalks was only intermittent. However, the few models who stood out, did it in full splendour. An example of longevity in the industry, with an African continent shaped pendant hanging from her neck, Angolan model Nayma is known as the black panther of the catwalks. However, despite her popularity, even Nayma faced integration difficulties early in her career. “When I started in Portugal there were very few castings and I remember my agent calling me to the side and saying: ‘I’m not going to send you to the casting because I don’t want you to go through a humiliation’. She showed me the note that said, ‘we don’t want black people’. This was ten years ago,” says the model who, curiously, lent her voice to the first black princess in a Walt Disney animated film one year ago. “I had castings scheduled and then cancelled because they said they didn’t have make-up for my skin. Others said they cancelled because they had no way of styling my hair. An agent even told me that ‘black girls don’t do haute couture or make it to magazine covers’,” she said to the newspaper Sol.

This season, African models took national and international catwalks by storm and were the centre of all attention.

by Manuel Arnaut

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Fortunately, the most recent shows prove that the situation is no longer the same and that a

unique cooperation between Portuguese modelling agencies and African models has started.

This was reflected in the refreshing and overwhelming presence of black models on the

catwalks of ModaLisboa and of Portugal Fashion. “I always enjoyed including multiple races

and ethnicities in casting calls. The problem was that, until now, the African models we had

available were too curvaceous and didn’t match what I was looking for,” says Luís Pereira, the

casting director for both national events. “I am Angolan myself and, during my youth, I don’t

recall seeing models like the ones that are showing up now. They are tall, elegant, very friendly

and no designer can remain indifferent when these 1.80 m women arrive.”The explanation for the appearance of these models is connected to the professionalization of

the African fashion market. With limitless human potential, it’s obvious that several countries

have everything to “produce” the future big stars. Especially now that the scouting processes

are increasingly more sophisticated and that international competitions, like the Elite Model

Look and the Ford Supermodel of the World, arrived in Angola. “The models are also well

prepared because, recently, former-model Ana Marta has been travelling across the different

provinces, where she finds and trains several girls,” Luís Pereira stresses.

Sharam

Living in London, she has already modelled on the catwalk for Hervé Leger and BCBG Max Azria and was a catalogue star for brands like Anne Taylor and Neiman Marcus.

Maria Borges

She won the Angolan edition of the Ford Supermodel of the World competition, participated in seventeen catwalk shows in New York and opened, in Milan, Rocco Barocco’s presentation.

Djedi Ross

The Guinean residing in Paris was seen in Vogue editorials and is a regular presence at Portuguese Fashion Weeks.

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Now, they work in international markets

like South Africa, Portugal, Italy, the United

States, and we have outstanding models

in the main fashion capitals. However,

there is still the problem of the low volume

of work for black girls, but there are more

opportunities on the catwalks.”

Looking at what this new generation of

models has already achieved, the future

can only be even brighter. Brothers

Armando and Fernando Cabral modelled

for all the greats and added worldwide

campaigns for brands like Michael Kors

and H&M to their résumés. This season,

Djedi was photographed for Vogue,

Sharam for Max Azria, and Maria Borges, in

New York, totalled nineteen catwalk shows

during Fashion Week. Definitely, Africa is in

fashion.

The Portuguese former-model Karina

Barbosa is definitely one of the people who

has contributed the most to the growth

of Angolan fashion. After a successful

career in Portugal and after finishing as

the runner-up in the Look of the Year

competition, where she received her award

from the hands of Naomi Campbell, Karina

established herself in Luanda, where she

directed the first modelling agency in the

city. Now, at the head of Step Models,

Karina Barbosa manages the careers

of young talents like Sharam and Maria

Borges, both working in Paris, New York

and Milan. “In my days, 19 years ago, it

was a lot more difficult because there was

the stigma that there could only be one

black model working. There were a lot of

clients that would not hire black models

at all, and in advertising it was almost

impossible to find a black girl in an ad other

than for coffee or chocolate,” she recalls.

“There was a great evolution, especially in

what concerns the models.

Roberta Narciso

Under contract with Elite Paris, she has modelled on the catwalk for names like Prada, Louis Vuitton and Ellie Saab.

Claudio

Under contract with Central Models, and 1,88 m tall, he starred on the Keneth Cole campaign and modelled for Calvin Klein and Michael Bastian.

Mauro Lopes

A strong name amongst the Portuguese catwalks who was nominated, in 2010, for a Fashion Award.

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MODALISBOA

And the show went on…

With creativity and an extremely experienced organization, ModaLisboa has

proven its ability to rise to all challenges.

At a time when the European economy is facing great challenges, the latest

edition of ModaLisboa, which featured the Portuguese proposals for the 2013

winter, was a litmus test for its organization. Because fashion is synonymous

with renewal, the so-called ‘Freedom’ edition was full of innovations, from new

supports and sponsorships to an exhibition room and a reorganized line-up.

Ana Salazar and the Alves/Gonçalves duo, two cornerstones of the industry,

were absent from the event, but designers like Luís Buchinho, Nuno Baltazar,

Ricardo Dourado and Os Burgueses ensured the continuity of a seemingly

recession-proof craft. Judging by the features we now present to you, even in

fashion the show must go on.

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The ball gown

As happened in the summer of 2012, the ball gown twirled on the main international catwalks. The trend also extended to next winter, and Nuno Baltazar took inspiration from the aesthetics of Pina Bausch to create two gowns, in the diaphanous skirts of which approximately nine metres of fabric were used. “This type of silhouette is perfect for the Portuguese woman, which usually has a thinner waist and more voluminous hips, concealed by a skirt that can move more freely,” the designer assures.Statement jewels

After presenting his solo work in installations, Valentim Quaresma earned a spot on the catwalk for this edition. His conceptual jewellery, with a bellicose appearance, originated in the idea of “a virus as a vehicle of propagation for ideas and shapes.”

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A multitude of partnerships

Synergy was the recipe for success of several collections. At the Say My Name catwalk show, bionic jewellery designed by Olga Noronha was seen. To underscore her chic interpretation of the universe of hockey, Maria Gambina enlisted the pen of Portuguese tattoo artist and illustrator Hugo Makarov to create her printed fabrics. To complement his looks, Daniel Dinis invited make-up artist Sónia Pessoa to knit the virgin wool scarves, beanies and gloves that were included in his collection. “I learned this technique as a teenager, but didn’t use it between 2004 and 2011,” says Sónia. “The pieces were designed by Daniel, but adapted and made by me.” Sport attitude

The universe of sport was revisited by two of the programme’s heavyweights. As it was already mentioned, Maria Gambina took inspiration from hockey. Faithful to their DNA, the White Tent duo reinvented sportswear with a more commercial appeal. A smart move, confirmed by the fact that retail giant Asos has begun selling their pieces.

Portugality

The catwalk was taken over by truly Portuguese references. “The idea was to explore new ways of ‘dressing fado’,” explains Miguel Vieira, who presented printed fabrics with the image of iconic fadistas. With this collection, I wanted to honour both the great names of this art and the new generation of performers which has been taking the name of Portugal to all the major stages and which sings and dresses in such a contemporary fashion.” This trend was also present on Luís Buchinho’s catwalk show, which recreated the Portuguese calçada pavement in some of its pieces.

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Catwalk “wow”!

Dino Alves is a designer who likes a good mise-en-scène and his shows always have a surprise beyond the collection. His presentation, which played with the concepts of shadow and light, was a true multimedia show and included video-art and projections.

The dark side

A grim atmosphere marked the Portuguese collections, and several designers exorcized their attraction for the abyss. Vitor Bastos’s catwalk notes talk of life and death, Filipe Faísca uses the word mourning and Alexandra Moura opens her show with powerful total black looks.

Mastery of materials

Their names are relatively new to national fashion, but they have been standing up for the ever growing mastery with which they work challenging fabrics. Denim is dull? Change your mind with the Marques’Almeida duo, which took inspiration from 1990s grunge to create total denim looks that are the talk of the town in London. Also a duo, Os Burgueses opened their show with “eco-fur” outfits. “We have a special connection with some materials. Furs or, in this case, eco-furs, is one of them,” says Pedro Euletério. “The theme, which brought together Texas, bikers and travellers, made it difficult to not think of this material. Technically, the work is different from using fabrics, because one hole out of place leaves a mark.”

The new black is... Blue!

In the winter of 2013, blue is king, and it painted Luís Buchinho’s catwalk. “The choice of a blue palette comes in the sequence of previous collections, where several tones of this colour combined with black. This theme reached its peak this winter. Not to mention that navy-blue is perhaps my favourite colour, on a personal level. I think that the play between night-blue and black is one of the most beautiful for a winter collection,” says Buchinho, who has just opened his second store in Porto.

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Luís Buchinho

Nuno Baltazar is one of the most talented women’s fashion designers in Portugal. Emotions are the inspiration for his work, and the collections he presents are proof of that. It is likely that the single and complex idea that drives him is responsible for much of his success as a designer: “To see women beautiful.” The critics have been applauding and, at the end of 2011, elected Nuno Baltazar as the best designer, at the Fashion Awards.

“Someday he’ll come along, the man I love. And he’ll be big and strong, the man I love. And when he comes my way, I’ll do my best to make him stay.” ‘The man I love’ by George and Ira Gershwin (1924) and an excerpt from the play ‘Nelken’ by Pina Bausch (1983) are the point of departure for a journey of the multiple influences that come together in the 2012/2013 autumn/winter proposals by Nuno Baltazar, one of the most reputable designers in Portugal. In his latest collection, the proposals he presented included fluid dresses, overalls and shoulder-padded pieces, where neutral and orange tones highlight the glamorous side of women. The golden stilettos and belts stress the H silhouette and, as a whole, it is a collection that makes a personal interpretation of the Pina Bausch universe, of the women’s condition and of its multiple contrasts. The brand’s DNA is reinterpreted in demi-couture and easywear looks, in an urban, feminine and sophisticated universe.

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At age 36, Nuno Baltazar has already claimed his place as one of the best women’s fashion designers in Portugal. This is a recognition that came at the end of last year, when he was elected as the best designer at the Fashion Awards. It was one of the milestones of his career and an acknowledgement of the work developed over the last decade. “It was the confirmation of the respect I have accumulated throughout my career,” he says.

Fashion is a journey

It is impossible to stay indifferent to Nuno Baltazar’s collection and, year after year, the fashion designer always manages to surprise. The secret is the concept he adopts at the moment of creation and which can be summed up as “to see women beautiful.” A simple phrase but filled with complexities inherent to the feminine universe. “It is necessary to know the body and mind of women very well. That thought is part of my day-to-day and when I’m drawing I think about all the doubts, anguishes and uncertainties that are part of that universe, but also about their strength and the passionate way they live,” he describes.Nuno Baltazar always chooses a theme for his collections. The creative process is inspired by a specific woman, or even by a fictional one to whom he gives a name, a profession and a city: “I need to create a story, and only then do I start dressing up the character.” This is part of the reason fashion is a journey, and it is not unusual for the locations and the different cultures with which he regularly comes into contact to be sources of inspiration.The results speak for themselves and many Portuguese public figures wear the brand today. For the designer, the woman who chooses Nuno Baltazar is one who takes on several rolls in society: she works, she is a mother, a wife, needs to respond to multiple demands and, therefore, identifies with a wardrobe that allows her to respond to her needs in practical and urban manners, but at the same time feminine and sophisticated. She is, without a question, a woman of the 21st century. For this reason, Nuno Baltazar places extreme importance on the accessories. “The belts are, perhaps, the brand’s most iconic piece. I think it is essential to develop accessories, because I want the brand to have a rich and graphically strong universe.” Footwear is also one of the bets of the designer who has presented shoes as part of every collection. And because this is an area he wants to strengthen, he is currently planning a partnership with One Step.

“Nuno Baltazar Atelier” label

Nuno Baltazar was born in Lisbon, but soon chose Porto as a place to live. He discovered his passion for fashion and drawing as a child, at age 12, during a vacation at his grandparents’ home, when he found some women’s magazines from the 1950s with fashion pages filled with illustrations rather than photos, as happens now. He started imitating the drawings and, after his ‘gift’ was discovered by a teacher, he never abandoned this creative process. Completing his degree in fashion design, in 1998, he always stood out, winning several young designers’ awards. The decisive step, becoming a professional, happened when he was invited to take part of the national catwalk line-up of Moda Lisboa. “It was a defining moment for me, because I grew up watching Moda Lisboa and wanting to be a part of that restricted core of designers who participated in the event,” he confesses. Another highlight of his career was the opening of his first store on Avenida da Boavista, in his adoptive city, Porto. In this studio, an extension of his workshop, his ready-to-wear collections are available. But the creation of unique pieces with the ‘Nuno Baltazar Atelier’ label answers the needs of those who, for one reason or another, wish to have in their wardrobes a piece made exclusively for them. At the same time, his creative studio has been developing several staff uniform projects for hotels and others, including IBIS hotels in Portugal, Aquafalls Spa Hotel and Casino da Póvoa.

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BLOOMED OUT photo: frederico martinsSTYLING: FERNANDO BASTOS PEREIRA

wool jacket and trousers-ESTELITA MENDONÇAvintage gold necklace

Espaço Bloom was the greatest bet made by the 2010 Portugal Fashion for the presentation of young designers’ proposals, in a more informal, urban and artistic atmosphere. Find out how they grew.

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special thanks to Centro Hospitalar Conde Ferreira

FREDERICO MARTINSFERNANDO BASTOS PEREIRA PAULO GONÇALVES ''APICCAPS''PATRÍCIA LIMARUI ROCHA with senscience Shiseido PEDRO SÁNELSON LIMAMARTA FONSECA RESENDEHELENA ALMEIDARODRIGO SANTOSLALALANDSTUDIOS

shoes-JÚLIO TORCATOcotton shirt with scarf-ESTELITA MENDONÇAcotton cropped trousers-HUGO COSTAleather leggings –CALZEDONIAmatt black metal cuff stylists studio

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YOU DON’T DARE TO ASK

1. What are your proposals for winter 2013? 2. What was your inspiration for this new collection?3. What is your favourite piece from the collection?4. What international personality would you like to dress?

Above all, perfect moulding and quality fabrics. Brocades, leathers, furs and bead-work fabrics were my choices for this season. Classic design allied to contemporary details.

This is a collection that redefines and revitalizes the approach to the culture and to the root of fado.

Perhaps a pure virgin wool long caviar-black dress, with raglan sleeves and with studs applied and embroidered by hand.

Man - Tom Ford; Woman - Angelina Jolie.

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A structure collection, the result of an idea of protection, very black, with light-play effects achieved with the use of pleatings, drapings, see-throughs and manipulations. The collection was inspired by a Hitchcokian woman, that is to say, strong and independent, but at the same time a little fragile; and by the association of the word “luto” in its double meaning: “luto” [mourning], related to the sorrow felt over an emotional loss; and “luto”, as a conjugation of the verb “lutar” [to fight], to react, and which, in Portuguese, are homonyms, since they are spelt and pronounced the same. The black leather and pleat pawn dress.

None in particular.

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For next winter, we propose a strong, urban and very sporty image.For the cold season, we designed a collection filled with ultra-comfortable jerseys that contrast the warm fabrics and the more dramatic look of the waste cloth.The nude tones underline the comfortable second-skin look, while the blacks, navy blue and dark yellow signal the strength and daring of women.

Taking inspiration from rugby and from the strong image maintained by the athletes, this is clearly a sporty collection, where femininity and sensuality contrast the strong and robust image of the structures that protect women. Using traditional techniques, like the waste cloth characteristic of Portuguese tapestry, maximized and externalized structures are developed, creating an extremely contrasting silhouette against the delicate lines of the female body.

The piece we highlight in this collection is inspired by the trench coat, a piece that is recognizable to most of the public, to which we try to give a sportier and more fluid appearance with the material used.

Jennifer Garner

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Our proposals for winter 2013 are multi-functional pieces, adaptable to more casual or more formal occasions, in materials that range from satin to astrakhan, including lacquer treatments of classic materials like tweeds and brocades.

This collection results from two distinct inspirations: on the one hand, an approach to workwear, in functionality and protection details; and on the other hand, the use of noble materials commonly associated to evening wear.

An overall-skirt in quilted satin.

Cate Blanchet, for her beauty and her attitude.

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Model, producer, choreographer, casting director, backstage coordinator and entrepreneur. Luís Pereira is one of the most complete and respected Portuguese professionals in the field of fashion. He is the man behind the curtain.

He was born in Angola, but took his first steps in the world of fashion in Portugal. At the age of 17 and already living in Porto, at a time when model agencies were still non-existent and fashion shows were only isolated events, Luís Pereira began his career as a model.

His passion for fashion grew progressively, as did his fascination with the backstage. Today, Luís Pereira is a choreographer, casting director of ModaLisboa and backstage coordinator of Portugal Fashion. He is also the director of Showpress, an important communication agency and fashion showroom, which promotes the work of some of the top Portuguese designers and brands like Decénio, Dino Alves, Guava, Fly London, Lacoste, Luís Buchinho, Luís Onofre, Miguel Vieira, Nuno Baltazar, Pedro Pedro, Pelcor, Valentim Quaresma and Wrong Wheter..

THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN

Photo: Frederico Martins

Luís Pereira

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OUR JEWELSPhotography: Cassiano Ferraz; Stylist: Filipe Candeias

The jewellery sector in Portugal has a rich tradition and a manufacturing expertise, as well as potential in terms of symbolic capital and authenticity, both inside and beyond its borders.

Throughout the years, the sector has reinvented itself, reaching new levels of excellence by developing solutions that bring together manual skill, creativity, design and innovation management.

The jewellery industry assembles a diversified range of companies and external agents. Its business fabric is made up of nearly 1800 companies, responsible for approximately 3000 collaborators.

AORP (Jewellery and Watchmaking Association of Portugal) represents the entire sector and intends to promote an international image of Portuguese jewellery in the foreign markets.

Companies:Affaire, António Marinho, Eleutério, Eugénio Campos, Monseo, Ouronor, Ouropa, Rosarinho Cruz, Topázio

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cassiano ferrazFilipe candeias aorptinoca makeuppedro ferreiraluís costaMARTA RESENDEkristina luskova and raquel rocha

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PASSION’S COUNTRY: PORTUGAL

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Design

Carlos Aguiar

Carlos Aguiar is the most renowned Portuguese designer worldwide, with enormous recognition from the most varied points of the globe, as proven by the many awards he has earned: Good Design G-Mark, attributed by the Japan Industrial Design Promotion Organization, Design Plus (Frankfurt), Red Dot (Essen) or Good Design (Chicago), amongst many more. He was also shortlisted for the IF (Hannover) and for the Design Award of the Federal Republic of Germany. Currently, he devotes almost 100% of his time to his company (D-Design Office), where he works for some of the most important international brands, after having taught for several years at the Faculty of Engineering of the University of Porto and at the University of Aveiro.

Architecture

Eduardo Souto Moura

Eduardo Souto Moura became, in 2011, the second Portuguese architect to win the Pritzker Prize, known as the “Nobel of Architecture.” The jury considered that the Portuguese produced, “during the past three decades,” buildings that display “a unique ability to convey seemingly conflicting characteristics – power and modesty, bravado and subtlety,” from amongst which stands out the Municipal Stadium of Braga, built on the site of a former quarry. Born in 1952, in Porto, the award attributed to Souto Moura places him next to other great architects of the world, like Oscar Niemeyer, Frank Gehry, Jean Nouvel and Rem Koolhaas. The Pritzker Prize was presented to Souto Moura in a ceremony held in Washington with the presence of the President of the USA, Barack Obama, who took the opportunity to praise the ‘artistry’ of the Portuguese architect.

PORTUGUESE ARE SUCCESSFUL IN THE WORLD

Art

Paula Rego

Paula Rego is the most highly acclaimed female painter worldwide, having been made by Queen Elizabeth II, in June 2010, a Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire for her contribution to the arts. In England, she is ranked amongst the four greatest living painters. Her 1987 painting, ‘Looking Back’, established a new record for a sale in auction of one of her works when it reached a price of approximately 850 thousand euros in 2011. The previous record of a Paulo Rego painting belonged to ‘Baying’, sold in 2008 for approximately 740 thousand euros. She began her studies at Colégio Integrado Monte Maior, followed by St. Julian’s School, where teachers quickly recognized her talent for painting. Encouraged by her father, she left for London in the 50s, where she studied at the Slade School of Fine Art.Science

Literature

António Lobo Antunes

Perennial candidate to the Nobel Prize in Literature, António Lobo Antunes is one of the greatest writers in the history of Portuguese language. Because of the acknowledged quality and depth of his works, his name has been talked about, since 1990, each time the Swedish Academy prepares to announce its winners. However, Lobo Antunes never won the most important literary award, despite the praise his vast body of work has earned him from all over the world. The Portuguese writer is a medical graduate, specialized in psychiatry, and took part, between 1970 and 1973, in the final stages of the colonial war in Angola, which has been a recurring theme in many of his books. In September 2008, he received one of the most important literary awards in the world, when the jury of the Guadalajara International Book Fair awarded him the FIL Literature Award in Romance Languages, for his book ‘I Shall Love a Stone’, which contained “a profound reflection on the internal experience of human beings.”

Portugal is no longer only known internationally for fado and football. From literature to design, from cinema to science, there are many Portuguese that are successful all over the world and in many different areas. In this report, we give you only some examples of Portuguese figures who are part of World History.

Music

Moonspell

Moonspell, born in the city of Amadora in the early 90s, is one of the most highly respected Black Metal bands in the world of music, having performed live in the most varied countries. This year, as they celebrate their 20th anniversary, the band whose line-up has always included Fernando Ribeiro (lead vocals) and Mike Gaspar (drums) released its tenth studio album, Alpha Noir, in 50 countries through the Austrian independent record label Napalm Records. But it was in 2006 that they produced what the critics considered to be their best album, Memorial, which reached first place on the Portuguese charts within one week of its release. With the success guaranteed by this work, Moonspell won, during this same year, the prize for Best Portuguese Act at the MTV Europe Music Awards. However, it is still outside of Portugal where the band has most of its legion of fans.

Cinema

João Salaviza

On May 24, 2009, João Salaviza won the Short Film Palme d’Or at the Cannes Film Festival, with his film ‘Arena’, becoming the first Portuguese to achieve such a distinction. He is one of the most brilliant film-makers of the new generation – born in Lisbon on February 19, 1984 –, having won yet another highly prestigious international award in 2012, when he received the Golden Bear for Best Short Film at the Berlin International Film Festival, this time for his film ‘Rafa’. These are only the two most important distinctions of this multi-award winning Portuguese director, who studied directing at the Cinema Department of the School of Theatre and Cinema in Lisbon.

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Science

António Rosa Damásio

António Damásio, a neuroscientist who is currently a professor at the University of Southern California, is one of the most brilliant international researchers in the field of brain function. He studied at the Faculty of Medicine of the University of Lisbon, where he also completed his doctorate, and after working at the Aphasia Research Centre in Boston (USA), he returned to the Department of Neurology of the University of Lisbon Hospital. Between 1996 and 2005, he also worked at the University of Iowa Hospitals and Clinics. One of his books – The Feeling of What Happens (1999) – was named by The New York Times as one of the top ten books of the year, one of many awards his brilliant work as earned. His studies are focused in the area of cognitive science and have been fundamental for the understanding of the brain structures of language and of memory.

Management

António Horta Osório

António Horta Osório was named, in 2011, Chief Executive of the Lloyds Banking Group, 41% of which is controlled by the British Governemnt, but it was mostly at the start of this year that he gained public notoriety by refusing a bonus of 2.9 million euros because he thought too many people were facing financial difficulties. This is a detail that helps explain an equally successful past in the area of management. He graduated in Management and Business Administration from the Catholic University of Portugal, but during his final year, in 1987, he was invited to join Citibank in Portugal, where he would become head of capital markets. Three years later, he concluded his MBA at INSEAD, where he was awarded the Henry Ford II prize for the best student. He was then recruited by Goldman Sachs to work in New York and in London, before joining the Santander Group. Today, he is at the head of one of the largest British banks, with 24 million customers, and was recently named one of the most influential men in the City of London.

Sport

José Mourinho

José Mourinho is, very likely, the best football coach of all times, having recently completed another unique achievement, by winning the three most important leagues in Europe (England, Italy and Spain.) In early 2011, he won the FIFA Ballon d’Or Best Coach Award of 2010, in what was the most important individual honour of his career. His collective résumé also includes two UEFA Champions League titles (2004 and 2010), one UEFA Cup (2003), seven domestic leagues for FC Porto, Chelsea, Internazionale and Real Madrid, and four domestic cups. The Portuguese coach is also desired by many internationally renowned brands for their advertisement campaigns, not only because he is a winner, but also for his charisma and unique style, which earned him the nickname of ‘The Special One’.

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SUCCESSFUL PORTUGUESE BRANDS

There are many Portuguese brands with long histories and successes. Iconic names that accompanied generations and are case studies of national creativity and labour. In this edition of Portuguese Soul, we introduce you to some examples.

by Ilídia Pinto

Ach Brito: The soaps that charmed Oprah

Claus Porto, a brand of soaps synonymous with luxury worldwide, enjoyed by actors like Nicholas Cage and models like Kate Moss and praised by Oprah Winfrey, is produced in Vila do Conde by Portuguese company Ach Brito. Its origin goes back to 1887 and its motto today is: “Preserving the past, stimulating the present and challenging the future.” In addition to the Claus products, the company also makes the Ach Brito and the Confiança soaps.

The hand-painted labels were only one of the distinctive details of the brand that seeks to restore its historical and highly differentiating packages, maintaining the use of only natural ingredients in the production of its soaps. They are handmade, and the secret of their quality is in the mixing process, which is repeated seven times, and in the natural drying process. Specialization and investing in niche markets form the winning strategy of Ach Brito, which does not fear confrontation with the largest multinational corporations, because there is no reason for it. Its soaps are in fashion.

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Renova: The World’s Sexiest Paper

The best paper in the world is Portuguese. And we are not necessarily the ones saying it. This was the headline of an article in the Spanish daily El Mundo, on September 17, 2010, about Renova, considered an example of creativity, through the reinvention of its products and the constant release of new ones. Famous for its toilet paper, the Torres Novas brand is not limited, however, to this product. It has an extensive line of everyday products, from tissues, napkins and kitchen rolls to packaging paper and writing and printing papers.

Yet, it was the launch of Renova Black, the black toilet paper, that took the brand to the pages of reputable international newspapers like El Mundo and The New York Times and led to the repositioning of this product as a piece of art and design. Renova even held a marketing event at the Louvre Museum in Paris. Since its launch, in late 2005, 10 million rolls were sold and Renova became the first Portuguese marketing case study at INSEAD business school, in Fontainebleau, on the outskirts of Paris.

Viarco: the only Portuguese pencil

We all learnt to write with Viarco pencils. It is the only pencil manufacturer in Portugal, with a history that goes back to 1907, and the traditional methods it still employs are unique in the Iberian Peninsula. Preserving its memory is a daily concern of Viarco, which plans to create a Museum of Pencil to house its extensive collection. While that project is in waiting, other projects are being organized, like the exhibition and reissue of classic pencil boxes and the ‘Viarco Express’, a travelling exhibition under the tag line ‘One Century, Ten Pencils, One Hundred Drawings’ which was open to the public at the Museum of the Presidency of the Republic.

But a brand can’t live off its past alone, and experimenting with new things and creating specialized products is part of Viarco’s philosophy and has been a guarantee of success for over a century. Coloured pencils for the colour-blind, spinning-top pencils and magnetic pencils are just some examples of innovation born out of partnerships between Portuguese artists and designers and Viarco. And if you want to gift a different pencil, know that Viarco offers the possibility of customizing it with your name or with that of the people you love. A product available in sets of 12 and packaged in a classic 1950s box.

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GALLO: An olive oil of renewed traditions In the world of olive oil, such a genuinely Portuguese product, few brands have as much tradition as GALLO. It is no wonder that the brand’s tag-line stresses just that: “GALLO Olive Oil, singing since 1919.” As the legend goes, Victor Guedes, the company’s founder, chose the name GALLO one morning when, as he woke up and opened the bedroom windows, he heard a cock. Faithful to his Galician origins, he registered the brand with a double L, a name which has been preserved for its grace and originality. Almost a century later, GALLO can be found in 47 markets, from Brazil to China, but the brand is no longer limited to this noble product, having diversified its production to include vinegars and olive paste. One goal, however, remains ever present: the reinforcement of the brand’s Portuguese identity. There is no shortage of examples. That is the case of the ‘Renewed Traditions’ campaign, which, in an attempt to communicate with the younger generations, shows a tattoo of the cock of Barcelos, traditional kiosks transforming into bars, and Portuguese guitars played at summer festivals. All to the sound of reinterpreted and “renewed” traditional music. Or of the more recent launch of a limited edition bottle honouring Portugal and its national heritage embodied in the Fado, the Sea and Art.

Regina: Portuguese chocolates melting hearts worldwide

It was the first Portuguese chocolate factory, and many Regina products are part of our national collective memory, like the chocolate umbrellas and the orange or pineapple-flavoured chocolate bars. The loss of competitiveness that the company faced in the 1980s was restored when it was taken over by its big rival, Imperial, in 2000, and the brand was relaunched in full strength to quickly reach the leadership of its market segment (chocolate-covered almonds and hazelnuts).

In addition to the new launches, the renowned Portuguese brand – with which consumers maintain a strong emotional connection – has also been relaunching several of its major hits from the 1970s and 80s. That’s the case of the already-mentioned umbrellas (shaped like a closed umbrella) and fruit-flavoured chocolates, and also its ‘Eat with bread’, the only chocolate bar specifically developed to go with the taste of bread. Revivalism at its best.

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Serra do Bussaco is a veritable botanical garden containing around 700 native and exotic species protected by a 17th century papal bull that threatened to excommunicate those who did them harm. Notable amongst these species are the Nordmann Fir, the Mexican White Cedar or the Coast Redwood (a large-sized tree that can reach a height of 100 metres). In the 16th century, the Vicar-General of the Discalced Carmelites determined this to be the ideal location for the friars to devote themselves to contemplative life in communion with nature. Thus, a modest convent and several penitential hermitages and chapels were built throughout the woodland, which, together with the numerous lakes and stone crosses, lend this place a magical quality.

From the Cruz Alta observation point, you can enjoy the dazzling beauty of the mountain range, manifest in places like Vale dos Fetos and Fonte Fria. Of the original convent, only the cloisters, the chapel and some of the cells remain, because part of its area was incorporated during the 19th century into a Neo-Manueline palace, now converted into Bussaco Palace Hotel.

The current Bussaco Royal Palace was designed in the late 1800s by Italian architect, Luigi Manini, but also had contributions from architects Nicola Bigaglia, Manuel Joaquim Norte Júnior and José Alexandre Soares. It is integrated in an architectonic and scenic setting that is unique in Europe, and the hotel into which it was converted is considered one of the most beautiful historical hotels in the world.

The architecture of the Palace is characterized by a mix of elements present in monuments like the Belém Tower, the Jerónimos Monastery and the Convent of the Order of Christ in Tomar and its interior is decorated with azulejo panels, frescoes and paintings illustrating the Portuguese Age of Discovery. All these elements are the work of great Portuguese masters: the azulejo panels are by Jorge Colaço, the sculptures by António Gonçalves and by Costa Mota, the canvases by João Vaz, the frescoes by António Ramalho and the paintings by Carlos Reis.

The furniture set also constitutes a valuable heritage made up of Portuguese, Indo-Portuguese and Chinese pieces, as well as tapestries. But the beauty of this palace is completed by the gardens of the park that envelops it. Visiting Bussaco is, therefore, to travel back in time, discovering endless wonders, discovering the best of Portugal.

BUSSACOIt is one of the most romantic locations in Portugal. It is a truly magical place, positively bewitching, a 16th century monastic retreat, isolated from the rest of the world.

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CVR

When you look back, it may seem strange that it happened this way, but it was in 2006 that the Design and Fashion Museum moved, lock, stock and barrel, from Centro Cultural de Belém, a modern building filled with amenities, to the Pombaline Lower Town, taking over the former building of Banco Nacional Ultramarino, with interiors made of semi-destroyed and gutted walls, in need of urgent repairs (some which ended up never happening). Rua Augusta then saw the birth of the new Museum of Design and Fashion, MUDE, under the direction of Bárbara Coutinho, a woman ready to, “on the one hand, contribute to the research, memory and history of design in Portugal, and support recent projects deserving of recognition; while on the other hand, working for MUDE to have a fundamental role in the presentation and promotion of national fashion (as well as of all other forms of design) on an international level and as a way of reaching a larger public.” Aware of the long path ahead that still can and should be made, Bárbara Coutinho wants to maximize the use of various tools at her disposal, such as the MUDE website “to promote current initiatives; to strengthen collaborations with universities and schools (a work in progress with the goal of introducing the museum in course final projects), theses and other ongoing investigations.” There is no shortage of ideas to increase the visibility of the most interesting and talented work made in Portugal, and that is why the 2012 MUDE programme includes the “Made in Portugal Space, devoted to the presentation of national products and brands, either historical or (preferably) current, that stand out as examples of excellence and innovation. Specifically, of good articulation between design and the productive sector, of reinterpretation of traditions and traditional techniques, of good design and of bold strategical positioning. The presentation of the brand or of the products should be associated to one or more Portuguese designers, introducing high-quality national production to a vast (national and international) public, so that it also serves as an incentive for new ideas.” The programming of the museum has shown the consistency and maturity of those involved, both in the choice of artists and in the rest of the surrounding projects, regardless of the financial resources available. “Money is not the only factor, nor the most important, for development and progress; I still believe it is all about the people and the ideas.

MUDEThe Museum of Design and Fashion, MUDE, requires no major introduction, devoted to national and international contemporary art, it also organizes events like catwalk shows, lectures and conferences, in order to promote design and fashion. Directing it, is a woman-at-arms named Bárbara Coutinho, who has managed to highlight the ‘made in Portugal’ at the same time she draws attention to its fragilities and for the low international reach of Portuguese creativity.

by Catarina Vasques Rito

I also believe that a crisis generates a more sustainable and humane development, where culture and design are determining factors and for which responsibility, citizenship, conviction and resilience are fundamental qualities. Making more with less. It is important to go back to that famous rule of modernist design.” The stopover of Portugal Fashion at MUDE, last March, “wasn’t an isolated experience, it was the first event of the partnership between MUDE and the National Association of Young Entrepreneurs (ANJE) as the organizer of Portugal Fashion, similar to the protocol established between MUDE and Associação ModaLisboa. The common goal is the promotion of national fashion, particularly its new talents, and the search for renewed training, presentation, debate and promotional practices.” Holding the responsibility, management, coordination and direction of a museum is not an easy task, but it is “always challenging and never dull.” Bárbara Coutinho gets involved and likes to know about all the processes of the exhibitions open to the public in “her” museum. “For the permanent exhibition, the criteria are the historical representativeness and significance the pieces had for the period or for the designer, but also their state of conservation. For temporary exhibitions, the selection is based on the exhibition’s discourse and its underlying idea. No matter how carefully everything is planned, there is no replacing the relationship of the object with the space and with ourselves. Therefore, occasionally, it’s necessary to regroup pieces, highlight others, differentiate some. Some gain importance. Others can fade to the background.”

The workday of a director…

No two days are alike... Married and mother of one child, Bárbara Coutinho reconciles her time the same way as many other women with a career and a family. “Except for a weekly coordination meeting with the entire MUDE team, my days vary between multiple tasks, depending on the time of the year and the moment of the programme. Sometimes, I am more centred in strategic issues, like the conception of MUDE’s exhibition programme or the implementation of specific projects in the areas of conservation, investigation, incorporation and promotion. In this regard, in recent times, I have been working in closer proximity to the Lisbon City Council architect responsible for the museum’s architecture project, and to the rest of the technical team. It is still an invisible work, but one of utmost importance for the future of the museum. At other times, the accompaniment of the production and assemblage of each new exhibition gains importance, with meetings with each member of the team responsible for each specific task (conservation, education, communication, graphic design, interior design).” She likes to be informed of every step, from start to finish, “from the major options to the details. I can’t be any other way. Then, there is always a substantial amount of administration processes and financial procedures to accompany, countless e-mails to respond to, and many other tasks that are a part of the daily management of a museum.” There is still the analysis and evaluation of proposals made, representation of MUDE in contacts with other institutions and partners, public and private, national and international, the guided tours, the drafting of texts and, sometimes, the curatorship of exhibitions. This is the life of the person at the head of a museum with the characteristics of MUDE.

“The goal is to promote national fashion”

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Joana Vasconcelos in Versailles

Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos will display her work at the Palace and Gardens of Versailles in July. The exhibition includes the presentation of iconic pieces as well as of new creations. Since 2008, the Estate of Versailles, near Paris, has been inviting contemporary artists to display in its spaces. Jeff Koons was the first, and then followed Takashi Murakami, Xavier Veilhan and, in 2011, Bernar Venet. Now, it is Joana Vasconcelos’s turn. The Gardens and Palace will host the work of the Portuguese artist who will present, amongst other pieces, the ‘Marilyn’ shoe (made of stainless steel pots) and ‘The Bride’ chandelier (in which tampons were used).

Ana MouraNew album with Larry Klein

Fadista Ana Moura’s new album begins to take shape. The follow-up to the double-platinum “Leva-me aos Fados” will be produced by one of the most famous producers of our days, Larry Klein, winner of four Grammy Awards. The album will be recorded in Los Angeles, at the historic Henson Recording Studios, established by Charlie Chaplin in 1917, and where the whole history of popular music of the last 100 years took place: John Lennon, The Doors, The Rolling Stones, U2, Bruce Springsteen, Pearl Jam, Metallica, Shakira, Lady Gaga, and many, many others... It was also in this studio that the legendary anthem and music video “We Are The World” was recorded, in 1985.The last three years of Ana Moura’s career have been filled with shows in all corners of the world. The fadista has performed at the most important venues worldwide.

ZAPP

ING

PortoOne of the best tourist destinations in Europe

The city of Porto has been considered one of the best tourist destinations in the world. Porto combines the simplicity of the riverside with the magnificence of the sea, combines tradition and comfort with modernity. In addition to the obligatory visit to the port wine cellars, where it is possible to see the old town acknowledged as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, it’s imperative to visit Casa da Música, the Serralves Foundation and the Botanical Garden.

Livraria LelloOne of the most beautiful bookshops in the world

Located on Rua das Carmelitas, in Porto, Livraria Lello is considered one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world. The building was inaugurated in 1906 and designed by engineer Francisco Xavier Esteves. It stands out for its gorgeous Art Nouveau façade, with Gothic Revival details. Inside, in addition to books that can be considered veritable treasures, a unique atmosphere can be found, dominated by the staircase to the upper floor, but also by the decorations in painted plaster, imitating wood, and by a beautiful stained glass skylight.

British banknotes Signed by a Portuguese

His name is António Horta Osório. He is Portuguese and is currently the head of the Bank of Scotland. He is the one who signs the sterling banknotes, especially the five pound notes. Usually, banknotes are printed by central banks, but in Scotland the notes can by signed by the Lloyds Group Chief Executive, the Portuguese António Horta Osório, who before moving to London was the Chairman of Santander Totta in Portugal.The Bank of Scotland is a part of the Lloyds Banking Group. It was the first European bank to print its own banknotes and continues to do so, since some commercial banks in the United Kingdom are allowed to issue currency.It is the first time that a Portuguese ‘issues’ British banknotes. The banknotes, including the five pound note with the effigy of Sir Walter Scott, are issued by the Bank of Scotland and are accepted as if legal tender throughout the United Kingdom. Sir Walter Scott, born in August 1971 in the Scottish city of Edinburgh, is a forerunner of the historical novel genre, and his books are directly connected to the history of Scotland. From amongst his works, the highlight goes to ‘Ivanhoe’.

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Ingredients: 20 shrimp size 30/40 raw | [puree]: 1/2 garlic french cut into thin julienne | 1 ap-ple cut into cubes | oil q.b | [vanilla scented oil]: 75 ml virgin olive oil | 1 vanilla pod fresh | [pineapple and chilli chutney]: 100 g of pineapple cut into cubes | 1 chilli, seeded cut into julienne | 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger | 1 stick of grass | Prince (lemongrass) fresh | 2-3 tablespoons of sugar | 1 tablespoon chopped fresh | coriander |

Preparation: In a pan sauté garlic french a little olive oil 6-8 minutes on low heat, add the ap-ple and cover with a little water. Season with a little salt and bake 4-5 min. Grind in order to obtaina mashed homogeneous. Heat olive oil with the vanilla pod to 70 degrees and leave for 1 hour infusion. In a pan add all ingredients except the coriander chutney, simmer about 30 minutes. Cool and reserve. Sauté the prawns in olive oil with a little vanilla and a clove of crushed garlic, serve withthe puree and add the coriander chutney. Follow the prawns with puree and chutney and garnish with chervil.

Henrique Sá Pessoa

PORTUGUESE CUISINE

Shrimp sautéed in vanilla scented olive oil with apple puree and leek and pineapple and chilli chutney

“At the invitation of a Portuguese footwear brand, Myst, several of the best chefs in Portugal devised the perfect recipe. Learn about one of the proposals, by Henrique Sá Pessoa.”

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Messe Düsseldorf GmbHPostfach 1010 0640001 DüsseldorfGermanyTel. +49 (0)2 11/45 60-01Fax +49 (0)2 11/45 60-6 68www.messe-duesseldorf.de

05.-07.09.2012düsseldorf, germany

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