poznan in your pocket

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PoznańNo. 39, November 2014 - February 2015

No. 3

9 -

5zł

No. 3

9 -

5zł

inyourpocket.cominyourpocket.com

November 2014 - February 2015 3 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

Contents

Feature Taczaka Street Pub Crawl 6

Arrival & Transport 10

City Basics 14

Basic History 16

Culture & Events 18

Restaurants 24

Cafés 40

Nightlife 42

Sightseeing

Essential Poznań 51

Sightseeing 52

Ostrów Tumski 60

Citadel Park 62

Wielkopolska Uprising 64

1956 Uprising 65

Jewish Poznań 66

Further Afi eld Gniezno 68

Leisure 72

Lake Malta 74

Shopping 76

Directory 80

Hotels 82

Maps & IndexCity Centre Map 89

City Map 90-91

Street Index 92

Listings Index 93

Features Index 94

IN PRINT

ONLINE

ON YOUR MOBILE

Start refl ecting on the beauty of Stary Rynek by turning to page 52. Photo by Florian Leidoux; courtesy of City of Poznań.

4 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com

ForewordWhile we’ll admit that this undermines our ability to gripe about the weather (one of our favourite winter activities), we have to give credit where it’s due, and Poznań does a really impressive job of keeping up its energy during the colder months. Rather than an icy ghost town, unlikely visitors to the city this time of year will fi nd it full of activity, as the famed local nightlife experiences almost no let-up at all, and Poznanians seem to be constantly out and about celebrating one holiday and festival after another, from St. Martin’s Day (November 11th, see page 23) to Andrzejki (November 29th) to the festive run up to Christmas and New Year’s, including the amazing Ice Sculpture Festival on Stary Rynek (December 12th and 13th, see page 22). Of course the Polish way to boost your spirits and body temperature is to pour yourself full of hot soups and vodka, and with that second part in mind, we’ve put together a pub crawl for this issue’s feature on page 6. Whatever it is you choose to do while you’re in town, we hope you’ll clutch this guide close, and use it to discover all the city has to off er over the next four months. Na zdrowie, and enjoy Poznań!

CZECHREPUBLIC

SOUTHAFRICA

DUTCHCARIBBEAN

POLAND

ROMANIAHUNGARY

SERBIABOSNIA

ALBANIA

GREECE

FYR MACEDONIA

BULGARIAMONTENEGRO

ITALYCROATIASLOVENIA

AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND

UKRAINE

GEORGIA

BELARUS

LITHUANIA

LATVIA

ESTONIA

RUSSIA

GERMANYBELGIUM

NETHERLANDS

NORTHERNIRELAND

IRELAND

FEATURE

Nobody parties harder in Poznań than the city’s students, and it’s where they are that you’ll fi nd the most fun to be had, especially in the cooler months. This issue we take you deep into the ‘student ghetto’ (as some would call it) with a pub crawl down the ever-popular, if a bit potty, ul. Taczaka. Turn to page 6 to begin.

PublisherIYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Krakó[email protected] www.inyourpocket.com

Company Offi ce & AccountsGeneral Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 58 555 08 31

Circulation15,000 copies published 3 times per year

Editorial Editor: Garrett Van Reed; Contributing Writer: Steve Sibbald; Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan, Kalina Klimaszewska; Layout: Tomáš Haman; Events: Maria Rulaff, Janina Krzysiak; Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated; Cover © Tomasz Hejna; courtesy of the City of Poznań

Sales & Circulation Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager: Monika Szymanek 668 876 351Warszawa/Łódź Manager: Marta Ciepły 606 749 643Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Agata Trocha 606 749 642Gdansk/Bydgoszcz Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824

Copyright Notice & Editor’s NoteText, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every eff ort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

ABOUT IYP

We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the fi rst In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world. The publication earlier this year of guides to Johannesburg and to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our fi rst guides in the Southern Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over fi ve million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

Traditional Polish Cuisine & Sous Vide Technique

Restauracja RATUSZOVA

Stary Rynek 55, 61-772 Poznań

tel. +48 618 510 513

www.ratuszova.pl

[email protected]


ul. Taczaka

ul. Taczaka Pub CrawlWith the students back in force and holidays on the horizon,

winter’s approach in Poznań doesn’t lead to a letdown, but literally

awakens the spirits and fi lls shot glasses to the brim. Get off the

market square and get down on all fours as IYP leads you on a crawl

through one of the city’s most prodigious nightlife expressways.

The popular concept of the ‘pub crawl’ is something that hasn’t quite taken off locally in PL. Generally speaking, Polish pub-goers prefer to fi nd themselves a decent bar, park themselves up for the night at a table and let the alcohol do the rest. Not a bad idea, but don’t let yourself fall too far into that trap when visiting Poznań - this city has made a name for itself when it comes to nightlife, and is simply too full of fi ne boozers to limit yourself to just a few. In addition to the almost boundless drinking opportunities on the main square, more adventurous visitors should check out the less touristy areas outside of the Old Town, where locals and students fl ock to punish their livers.

Ulica Taczaka (A/B-3) - the ‘high street’ of Poznań’s down-at-heel ‘student ghetto’ - off ers one such opportunity to approach the city’s alcohol culture as one might sightseeing - and absorb as much as you can as effi ciently as possible. Located just a fi ve minute stroll away from the main square, this street is about as far removed from the bright lights and tourist-packaging of Stary Rynek as you could wish for, and arguably more authentic. Here you’ll discover scores of cellar pubs within staggering distance of each other, all of them worth investigating on their own merits, and all of them full of Poznań’s fi nest steering themselves towards the same good time you’re likely searching for. As such, don’t be surprised to come across hoards of boozed-up students and drunken expats testing their pigeon Polish on the local ladies. It’s not for everyone, but if that sounds like your society, start at Taczaka’s top end (off ul. Ratajczaka, B-3) and follow us as we guide you through one of Poznań’s most densely packed nightlife thoroughfares.

TANKI PUBSituated at the top end of ul. Taczaka, Tanki is a good place to start pioneering a pub crawl, with its main draw being the ‘bright beer’ Tyskie brewing tanks that ensure the pints here are as fresh as the kielbasa you’ll need to help cure your hangover. Typical of pubs in the area, it’s a lively brick basement with a tiny cupboard-sized dance room at the back and a decent-sized TV for watching the match. Those planning on sticking around (and too lazy for return trips to the bar) can order one of their five litre table-top taps and engage in a spirited kerfluffle with the stairs until finishing.QB-3, ul. Taczaka 22, tel. (+48) 600 04 61 87. Open 14:00 - 02:00. XW

ROZLEWNIAFormerly ‘U Honzika’, Rozlewnia has hardly changed and still features thick timber tables to slam your pint down on, lots of mad foreign signage and a great selection of beers that you’ve never heard of shipped in from Ukraine, Lithuania and the Czech Republic. But while its predecessor may have been regarded as one of the city’s ‘rougher’ pubs, the new owners have managed to bring in a more friendly vibe, which we’re all in favour of.QB-3, ul. Taczaka 21, tel. (+48) 502 43 31 53. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. XW

KAWIARNIA NOCNA KISIELICEKawiarnia Nocna Kisielice (formerly just Kisielice) has somehow always managed to divide opinion and its refurb will continue to do just that. Gone are the knackered old sofas and warm red and orange colours that used to don the walls, replaced instead by smart new chairs, a predominantly dark decor and an extremely low bar, which might take the regulars a little while to get used to. The K-Hole has always been one of the city’s more experimental bars when it comes to music policy (think hardcore punk to electronica to African tribal chanting) and if our recent trip is anything to go by, little here has changed. Defi nitely original and worth a look.QB-3, ul. Taczaka 20, tel. (+48) 509 82 54 45, www.kisielice.com. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:30. Closed Sun. EXW

KLUB GALERIA SHISHAAmid all the madness and spilt pints found on Taczaka, this Egyptian-themed venue is an oasis of relaxation. Wall-paintings of falcon-winged gods and pharaohs keep an eye on the fun, while plenty of hookah pipes cloud the evening. Laze about on the low sofas to soak up the spaced-out atmosphere, or enjoy the action at the bar area where hoards of foreign students play Super Mario Bros. and sling back half-price/half-strength shots for only 2zł apiece. A great detour from the spit and sawdust atmosphere of the nearby beer halls.QA-3, ul. Taczaka 15, tel. (+48) 500 37 23 72, www.shisha.net.pl. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. XW

Żółłty ty BalalBaBaloonionikk

Tanki Pub

Klub Galeria Shisha


ul. Taczaka

ACADEMIC PUBDespite what the name might suggest, the only work that gets done here is the carrying of booze-fi lled trays to and from the bar. There’s little to distinguish Academic Pub from any other cheap student haunt: beer-brand posters, fl ashing darts machines, off ensive toilets, a jukebox ceaselessly cycling Polish pop hits, and what has to be the oldest TV in town. It might not sound that special, but crawlers can’t be choosers, and this place is big, busy and full of eye candy you can ogle while sinking a few shots.QB-3, ul. Taczaka 11, tel. (+48) 61 853 69 80. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. XW

CORNER PUB / COLLOQUIUM CLUBTwo for the price of one here, but choose carefully. While there’s little differentiating these sister venues (both are stupidly popular brick cellar bars with dance floors at the end of them), Colloquium Club attracts the teeny-boppers and features a less-than-friendly bouncer, making Corner Pub the better choice. Though local opinion is divided, if you check your self-awareness at the door and are happy to sacrifice design extras for near giveaway beer, a good time is almost guaranteed. Flashing lights, cheesy chart-disco and giggling coeds make this a must for any local pub crawl - we just suggest you’ve already emptied a few glasses before entering.QA-2, ul. Taczaka 10, tel. (+48) 61 633 23 32, www.imprezadorana.pl. Open 09:00 - 05:00. EXW

ŻÓŁTY BALONIKA perfect place to end the night. With laid-back tunes, a full-on smoking area and furniture which looks like it’s been liberated from a skip, Zółty Balonik is a legendary dive that hasn’t seen a lick of paint since it opened. Prop up the bar or sink into one of the broken armchairs to lose count of the pints while discussing the night’s travails. Truly a time warp, looking at your watch will only add to the confusion.QB-3, ul. Taczaka 7, tel. (+48) 533 45 75 33, www.zoltybalonik.pl. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri 15:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. NXW

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The onlysuch placein Poznań

TACZAKA STREET EATS

Unless you want to get agitated and black out, it’s probably unwise to imbibe on an empty stomach. For-tunately, ul. Taczaka is home to its fair share of eateries as well, and we list the best of them below:

BAR A BOOLooking for Poznań’s best pizzeria? Look no further. To be honest, labelling this place a pizzeria is a bit of a cop out as the menu also off ers up breakfasts, pasta and salads, and the smart, elegant interior rivals some of the city’s fi ner restaurants. A good wine list and plenty of beers and spirits mean that if you’re coming here to line your stomach, that inevitable ul. Taczaka pub crawl may kick off later than you planned.Qul. Taczaka 11, tel. (+48) 61 883 43 15, www.baraboo.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (10-24zł). TUXSW

FISZKAEx-pat ears pricked up when the news broke that there was a ‘British fi sh & chips’ shop opening in town - and rightly so. Though the owners here stress that they are tailoring the food more to Polish tastes rather than try-ing to copy the British style, the deep-fried battered cod goes down a treat. The chips may not be exactly what you’d expect from a chippy back in the UK, but having a few diff erent sauces (including proper Heinz ketchup) and decent malt vinegar to douse your grub in gets a big thumbs up. Also at ul. Wrocławska 17 (G-3).QB-2, ul. Taczaka 17/3, tel. (+48) 535 06 82 63. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (8-14zł). GS

RESTAURACJA MAMASITASThis bright, industrial-styled Mexican restaurant boasts all the usual classics, such as tacos, enchiladas and nachos, and there’s even a decent section for the little ones as well. These boys clearly know what they’re doing and the place was absolutely roaring when we visited.QB-3, ul. Taczaka 24, tel. (+48) 61 225 77 55. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (15-46zł). TGSW

TARTAKThis trendy eatery specialises in homemade tarts, quiches and savoury pies, which can be purchased by the slice (12zł) - or just go whole hog and take the whole thing. There’s also a nice selection of soups and salads that the staff are more than happy to talk you through. With a fi ne sampling of bottled beers and chilled-out tunes, Tartak makes it possible for you to do your drinking in a more civilised manner here than elsewhere on Taczaka Street, if that’s what you’re after.QB-3, ul. Taczaka 22, tel. (+48) 506 17 61 00, www.tarta-k.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (12-19zł). T6GSW

Rozlewnia

10 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com November 2014 - February 2015 11 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

Arrival & Transport

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Arrival & Transport

to buy tickets onboard the train from the conductor for a small surcharge. Check the timetables online at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited, but eff ective English functionality; if you want a seat on a par-ticular train, it is best to book ahead.

Taxis await you immediately outside, and a ride to the main square costs about 10-20zł. Bus 51 also runs near the city centre (drops at ‘Małe Garbary,’ D-1) with buses leaving every 15 minutes; a 15-minute transport ticket is enough to get you there. Construction work still being done close to the station means that the tram network is in a bit of a mess at the moment, but tram number 6 from ‘Most Dwor-cowy’ will take you to ‘Półwiejska’ (G-4), which is an easy 10 minute walk from the main square.QE-4, ul. Dworcowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system main-tenance seat reservations cannot be made between 00:00 - 01:00.

BY BUSMAIN BUS STATIONAt the end of 2013, PKS Poznań Bus Station moved from its old haunt to much classier digs beneath Poznań City Cen-tre as part of the city’s spiff y new transportation centre. The underground complex includes a waiting room and infor-mation point, as well as other amenities connected to the transportation hub - more on which you can learn in our section on the Main Train Station, in addition to info on how to get to the centre of town from here.QF-4, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 703 30 33 30, www.pks.poznan.pl. Ticket offi ce open 06:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.

BY PLANEPOZNAŃ ŁAWICA AIRPORT

Poznań Ławica Airport lies 7km west of central Poznań and recently opened a new arrivals terminal, with the old terminal utilised for departures. On arrival there is an exchange bureau (kantor) and a cash machine (bankomat) to get Polish cur-rency (złoty). Food vendors can be found in the new terminal, as well as a tourist info point where you can pick up additional copies of Poznań’s best guidebook. As with all sensible air-ports in this day and age, there is absolutely no left luggage facility. Calling home is no problem; fi nd phone booths lo-cated before passport control - chip cards to operate them are available from every newsagent. They’ll also be able to sell you SIM cards and pre-paid cards for your mobile phone. Car rental companies can be found in both terminals. Getting to town is a cinch. Taxis stand right outside the entrance, but you’ll probably overpay to take one; with prices to the centre rather ridiculously ranging from 20-50zł depending on the time of day, it’s hard for us to say how much you should pay, but you should always agree on a fare with the driver before committing.Alternatively, cut costs by catching a bus, which will get you to the centre in 15-20 minutes. From the stop right out-side the entrance, Line 59 heads to Rondo Kaponiera every half an hour from 05:05 to 22:55; Express Line L (Airport - Central Station) sends two buses per hour from 5:15 - 22:15. At other times the airport is connected to the central train station by a night bus 242, with one an hour from 23:52 till 03:52; journey time 23 mins. Single 30-minute tickets (3.60/1.80zł) can be bought from kiosks, TI or ticket ma-chines; remember to validate your ticket immediately upon boarding.Qul. Bukowska 285 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 43, www.airport-poznan.com.pl.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTPoznań is criss-crossed by 19 tram routes (of which one runs at night), and 58 bus lines (20 at night). During the day these run from around 05:00 to 23:00 with trams and buses running approximately every ten minutes. Tickets are bought from automated machines found on most buses and trams, as well as at most transport stops, and the fact that you can pay by card means you don’t have to stress about having change. The galaxy of ticket options travellers are presented with is far too complex to review here; you can take it to heart that you won’t be leaving ‘Zone A’ unless you’re travelling far outside of the city-centre, as even Lake Malta is within Zone A. Tickets are timed, and the cheap-est option is a not-very-cheap 3zł for only 10mins - which might only get you 3 or 4 stops. A 40-min ticket for 4.60zł is the safer bet, but if you plan on travelling often, you may want to consider a 24hr or 48hr ticket. Another option if you are here for a few days is the Poznan City Card which gives you free unlimited use of the public transport system as part of the price. It’ll save an awful lot of headaches.Children under fi ve and adults over 70 travel for free, and dis-counted tickets are available for foreign students under age 26 in possession of an ISIC card. Finally, it is extremely impor-tant that you remember to validate your ticket by punching it in the ‘kasowniks’ found by the bus/tram exit as soon as you board. If you don’t have a valid ticket and fi nd yourself nicked by a plain clothes inspector you’ll be fi ned 140zł on the spot as well as the cost of the ticket you didn’t purchase/validate. Many don’t look very offi cial so you are within your rights to ask for their ID. You can opt to pay within seven days (in which case the fi ne rises to 196zł), or within 14 days (280zł).

BY TRAINMAIN TRAIN STATIONPoznań’s main train station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is opposite the Trade Fair Centres and about 10 minutes by taxi to the main square. The site of a massive 160 million złoty redevelopment project over the last few years, a new transportation centre has arisen alongside the old train sta-tion building, which integrates rail, tram, and bus connec-tions in one modern, state-of-the-art underground transit station. As a result, this is now the point of entry for most visitors to the city, including those arriving at the airport and taking the direct bus to the centre, which drops off here. For the most part, the new station is open and opera-tional, though at press time construction was still ongoing in some areas around the complex.

In this day and age, ‘modern’ and ‘state-of-the-art’ not only connote sleek, fully handicap-accessible facilities, but the incorporation of a new shopping mall (with parking for 900 cars), plus dozens of other opportunities for consumerism and refreshment dotted around the station (welcome to the 21st century). Other now-standard amenities include lockers for large luggage (have some coins handy), curren-cy exchange and bank machines. The city of Poznań oper-ates a tourist information desk, but there’s also the PKP-op-erated Train Station Offi ce (open 07:00 - 21:00), which can help you plan your trip, get tickets, and even get into town.

Normal ticket windows are conveniently open 24hrs, but using the ticket machines (which have English options) is just as easy. If you’re running late, note that it is possible © Tomasz Francuzik; courtesy of City of Poznań

USEFUL TRANSPORT APPS

Poznań’s tram and bus network is incredibly easy to use, but if you want to make it even easier, check out the poznan.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former is a great tool for ad-vance planning, but the app is more practical for fi guring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destina-tion, select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop and even tell you which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and absolutely worth the couple Euros you’ll spend to download it.If you don’t have the patience for public transport in the fi rst place, there’s a nifty app for ordering taxis in PL: iTaxi.pl. iTaxi allows you to compare rates, arrival times, car models and more, sending the cab of your choice to your location without you having to talk to any dispatchers. Best of all, the drivers register to cre-ate a profi le, and are heavily vetted so there’s no funny business. Download it for free from their website.


Arrival & TransportArrival & Transportregistration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will fi nd their licences technically invalid (though this has never been a problem for anyone we know).

Driving to Poznań is fairly easy as it’s on the main E30 highway between Warsaw and Berlin. Once you’ve arrived, driving around Poznań’s congested one-way streets can be incredibly trying, however, so we suggest you ditch your vehicle for public transport at the fi rst opportunity, which raises the question of where to put it.

Public parking lots are marked on the maps in the back of our print guide, and free parking is basically non-existent, though some hotels have limited parking spaces for guests; check when booking your room. For street parking you’ll easily recognise the universal large blue ‘P’ sign, but be aware that a blue circle with a red ‘X’ over it means ‘No Park-ing’ (not sure which universe that sign is from). Pay via the automated ticket machines on the sidewalk, but note that they only take coins or special chip cards from the parking authority offi ce (so forget that option). Generally having a private car in Poznań is a bad idea unless you have a safe, inexpensive place to keep it.

Avis, the global leader in car rentals, off er short and long rental cars, vans and chauff eur

driven vehicles, including everything from small city cars to shared vans. Over 1,000 models are available with all equipped with air conditioning, airbags and ABS to ensure both comfort and safety. Flexible terms of cooperation from experts in professionalism, conve-nience and safety. Also at Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel, G-4).Qul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 35, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Telephone line manned 24hrs a day.

Europcar is one of the biggest car rental companies in Poland

off ering many rental options (both short and long term) that will suit all needs (8 diff erent categories of cars are available). Present at all Polish airports and many other convenient locations, Europcar creates fl ex-ible driving solutions to meet your individual mobility needs. In doing so they deliver excellent service and benefi ts tailored to meet your specifi c requirements.Qul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 57, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

CAR RENTALAll you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid foreign driver’s licence or international driving permit. Be aware, however, that citizens from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk America, Australia) cannot legally drive on their licences and run the risk of hassle from the police (not that it ever stopped anyone we know from borrowing their girlfriend’s car, or renting one for that matter). Enjoy cruising the EU, but don’t try leaving it in a rental car.

BY CARPoland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of getting behind the wheel here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of diff erent traffi c and, most of all, aggressive driver be-haviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.

The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside ur-ban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, fi rst aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper

CONTACT:tel: +48 22 572 65 65www.avis.pl

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TAXISNot the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable and use their metres without any fi ddling around. Calling ahead should get you a better fare, but if you hail one from the street make sure you choose a clearly marked cab with a company name and phone number displayed, as well as a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journey’s end further limiting the likelihood of any funny business. You should expect to pay 5zł for entering the taxi followed by 2zł per kilometre. Prices rise on Sundays, holidays, late at night and for travel outside of the city limits.

Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a point of contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates a tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver may not expect one. But double standards being what they are, it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you.

EURO TAXIQtel. (+48) 618 11 11 11, www.euro-taxi.com.pl.

M1 TAXIQtel. (+48) 61 196 69, www.taxi.poznan.pl.

RADIO LUX TAXIQtel. (+48) 61 196 62, www.luxtaxi.com.pl.

ZTP POZNAŃQtel. (+48) 61 196 22, www.taxi.com.pl.


City BasicsCity Basics

HEALTH & EMERGENCYIn case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for an ambulance, 998 for the fi re brigade and 997 for the police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forward-ed to the relevant department. English speaking assistance is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabilities of the operator.English, German and Russian speakers have the option of using separate lines specifi cally designed for foreigners in distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or + 48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay. The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season. If you've woken up to fi nd you've got a raging headache, a swollen foot you can't put weight on and vague memories of some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by call-ing a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notori-

ously long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can be found in the Directory section of our guide. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which can also be found in the Directory. If it's a fi nancial emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out for the Western Union logo.

LAW & ORDERIn general Poznań is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply em-ploy common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets; if you're in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around the train station and air-port. The vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train station are by in large harmless and easily ignored. Staying on the right side of the law is signifi cantly easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you're determined to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it's not in front of the law. In recent years visitors ranging from folks in Chewbacca costumes to complete fools who've thought it's perfectly ac-ceptable to drop trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain have tested the patience of the local law enforcement. Their tolerance threshold is now decidedly low so don't push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Poznań's premier drunk tank (ul. Podolańska 46), where you can ex-pect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrantsa chastening experience which will set you back 250zł for a 6-24 hour stay. In return for your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the

company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fi ne (credit cards not accepted, of course).Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding pub-lic transport without a ticket (see Arrival & Transport, Public Transport) and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking. If you are from a country which doesn't have or respect jaywalking laws, you'll be surprised to see crowds of people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying this little rule is the fact that the lo-cal city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50-100zł fi ne for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fi ne when the ‘walk' light is red. And don't think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to the law and your non-residency means you will be forced to pay the fi ne on the spot.

MONEYThinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, news-agents, public toilets, even the occasional restaurant or bar will often refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments.Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming 'Kantor'. Kantors will often provide better value than the banks in your home country or the ATM, though for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sites. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. For a list of Kantors in Poznań, see Directory.Since EU ascension, prices in Poland have been on the rise, making the country less of a bargain than it was ten years ago. Having said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural ven-ues and transport still remain comparably cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the cinema typically costs 15-25zł while admission to most museums costs around 5-15zł.

RELIGIONAccording to the Ministry of Foreign Aff airs, 95% of Poles are Roman Catholics. And though that fi gure is based on baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is probably clos-er to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one of the most reli-gious countries in Europe. For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fi ghting against the hor-rors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the Church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may fi nd the Polish enthusiasm a bit un-nerving at fi rst, particularly the solemn and opulent proces-sions that occur from time to time and the droves that fl ock to mass. Tourists should remember while visiting Poznań's many churches that these aren't museums, but active places of wor-ship to be treated with the requisite respect.

FACTS & FIGURES

TerritoryPoland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the mysterious Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).

Longest RiverThe river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at 1,047km and fl ows through Krakow and Warsaw before reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Poznań sits on the Warta river which reaches the Baltic via the Odra at Szczecin.

Highest PointThe highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the Tatra Moun-tains on Poland’s southern border.

Population (2013)Poland - 38,502,396Warsaw - 1,718,219Kraków - 758,940Łódź - 715,360Wrocław - 631,263Poznań - 549,082Gdańsk - 460,815

Local TimePoland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Poznań it’s 6:00 am in New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

LANGUAGE SMARTS

Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Many are also adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fi ercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’ the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a reasonable understanding.Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal, often resulting in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your fl ustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in Poznań and may even win you friends and admirers.On the downside, Polish is one of the most diffi cult lan-guages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases

Yes Tak (Tahk)

No Nie (Nyeh)

Hi/Bye (informal) Cześć (Cheshch)

Hello/Good day (formal) Dzień dobry (Jen doh-bri)

Good evening (formal) Dobry wieczór (Doh-bri vyeh-choor)

Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya)

Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats)

Please Proszę (Prosheh)

Thank you Dziękuję (Jen-koo-yeh)

Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... Mam na imię... (Mam nah ee-myeh…)

I’m from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee)

Do you speak English? Czy mówisz po angielsku? (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)

I don’t speak Polish. Nie mówię po polsku. (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)

I don’t understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)

Two beers, please. Dwa piwa proszę. (Dvah peevah prosheh.)

Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!)

Where are the toilets? Gdzie są toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)

You are beautiful. Jesteś piękna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)

I love you. Kocham cię. (Ko-hahm chuh.)

Please take me home. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu.

(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.)

Call me! Zadzwoń do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko)

Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)

Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)

One ticket to… Jeden bilet do… (Yeh-den bee-let doh…)

MARKET VALUES

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of October 17, 2014 based on €1 = 4.19zł

McDonald's Big Mac 9.60 zł € 2.29

Snickers 1.69 zł € 0.40

0.5ltr vodka (shop) 29.90 zł € 7.14

0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.99 zł € 0.71

0.5ltr beer (bar) 8.00 zł € 1.91

Loaf of white bread 2.39 zł € 0.57

20 Marlboros 14.70 zł € 3.51

1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.25 zł € 1.25

Local transport ticket (1 journey) 4.60 zł € 1.10


Basic HistoryBasic HistorySeeing that Poland occupies a fair chunk of Europe it’s safe to assume it has a history to match the greatest of na-tions. Indeed, to pen the full story of Poland and its origins would be to come up with a tome thick enough to stun an elephant. So we’ve taken a few shortcuts and present you here with some highlights of Poznań’s millennium-long journey - from its Dark Ages

settlement to its 21st century commercial awakening.

10th centuryIn 968 the fi rst Polish cathedral is erected here. In 992 Mieszko I, the fi rst ruler of Poland, is buried in Poznań Ca-thedral.

12th centuryPoznań begins to develop. At the end of the century, mem-bers of the Knights of Malta settle at St. Nicholas’ Church and found the fi rst hospital in Poznań.

13th centuryIn 1253, Przemysł, Prince of Wielkopolska, bestows Mag-deburg Law rights to the town of Poznań. A regular street system is laid out around a central marketplace and a castle is added to the fortifi cations.

14th centuryPoznań goes through its greatest period of expansion and is soon a major centre of European trade.

16th centuryA golden age in the city’s development, though in 1536 a fi re devastates the Jewish quarter, the market square, Town Hall and the Castle.

17th centuryProsperity falls after the devastatingly expensive Swedish Wars of 1655-1657 and a series of fi res and fl oods. Swedes occupy Poznań in 1655, Brandenburgians in 1656.

18th centuryPoznań runs out of luck. During the Northern War, Russian and Saxon troops besiege the city in 1704. In 1710 a plague largely depopulates the town and its suburbs. In 1725 a hurricane destroys the towers of the Town Hall and the Ca-thedral. And in 1736, the worst fl ood in the town’s history wipes out almost a third of its buildings.

19th centuryNapoleon has his headquarters here for two weeks in 1806. As the Prussians convert Poznań into a military stronghold, the local Poles resist the Germanisation process and form their own cultural and economic organisations.

20th centuryThe Wielkopolska Uprising of December 1918 starts in Poznań and wins freedom for the region. In 1918-1919, Poznań is the base of the National People’s Council and the administrative centre for lands formerly under Prussian rule. From 1939-1945, the local Jewish community is wiped out, much of the town’s population is killed or displaced and about half of the city’s buildings are destroyed. On January 23, 1945, Russian troops reach Poznań. With 5,000 mobil-ised locals, they drive out the Germans after a month. The Warsaw Pact is created in 1955.

1956In what becomes known as the 1956 Uprising, in late June 120,000 protestors in Poznań demand “bread, truth and freedom,” and 76 are killed in street fi ghting with the army. A political thaw begins that year under Władysław Gomułka.

1970Gdańsk shipyard workers strike in December to protest poor living standards and rising prices. The police and army intervene, killing 44 strikers. Unrest forces Gomułka out of the government.

1978Polish Cardinal Karol Wojtyła is elected Pope and takes the name John Paul II.

1980The fl edgling Solidarność trade union, led by shipyard elec-trician Lech Wałęsa, calls a general strike.

1981The Prime Minister, General Wojciech Jaruzelski, declares martial law on December 13th.

1983Pope John Paul II makes his fi rst visit to Poznań. Martial law is lifted and Wałęsa wins the Nobel Peace Prize.

1985-88Poland’s economic crisis deepens and popular frustration grows.

1989Solidarność is legalised and the government agrees to meet 21 demands for improved living and working conditions. Partly free elections are held. When Solidarność sweeps the elections the communist regime collapses. Nonetheless, the parliament elects General Jaruzelski president, and the fi rst post-communist prime minister, Tadeusz Mazowiecki, forms a coalition government.

1990Price and monetary restrictions are abandoned in an at-tempt to fi nd a natural economic equilibrium. Infl ation leaps, at one point reaching 79% per year. In December Lech Wałęsa becomes the fi rst popularly elected president of post-communist Poland.

1995Former communist Aleksander Kwaśniewski defeats Lech Wałęsa in the November presidential elections.

2001Populist parties enjoy unprecedented success in parlia-mentary elections and Solidarność, a major force in 1989, disappears from the political scene.

2004Poland enters the European Union on May 1, 2004 spark-ing a mass exodus of young Poles seeking their fortunes abroad.

2005Following a long battle with illness Pope John Paul II passes away on April 2. His funeral in the Vatican is attended by a million Poles.

2010Poland hits world headlines after the sign above Auschwitz concentration camp is stolen, but later recovered. In April, Poland enters national mourning after a plane carrying president Lech Kaczyński crashes killing all on board.

2012Poland successfully co-hosts the Euro 2012 football tourna-ment with neighbouring Ukraine (though the Polish team didn’t make it out of the group stage).

THE BAMBERGERS

Explore the alleys hidden behind the Town Hall and you’ll come across a fountain featuring a traditionally-dressed Bamberg peasant girl carrying pails of water. The Bambergers were poor Catholic farmers from Ba-varia, Germany, who came to Poznań about 300 years ago at the invitation of the city authorities to help rebuild villages devastated by war and plague. The Bambergers quickly assimilated, becoming patriotic Poles and later even resisting Prussian attempts to re-Germanize them. The bambrzy, as they were called, played an important part in the history and culture of Poznań, and you can learn more about them by visiting the Poznań Bamber Museum (ul. Mostowa 7/9, D-2).

THE PIASTS

More than any other major city in the country, Poznań’s history is tied to the Piast dynasty and the very birth of Poland. Poland’s fi rst ruling family were the Piasts, and though the family line goes back to the 8th century we’ll start with Mieszko I, Poland’s fi rst ruler (he’s the fella on the 10zł note). Born in 935AD his life generally revolved around the battlefi eld, but when he wasn’t leading his troops into confl ict from the Baltic Coast to the plains of Silesia, he spent most of his time here in Wielkopol-ska, specifi cally his fortresses in Poznań, Gniezno and Ostrów Lednicki. Baptised in 966 he founded Poznań Cathedral two years later, a move seen by many as the beginning of the nation’s Christianisation.

Meanwhile, Adalbert - the fi rst Bishop of Prague - ar-rived in Gniezno in search of a quieter life. Soon, how-ever, he was persuaded out of exile to convert the barbarous Prussian tribes to Christianity, but his head almost immediately ended up on a spike. Back in Poz, Mieszko had been succeeded by his son Bolesław I (fi nd him on the 20zł note) in 992, who decided he would personally make the perilous journey to recover Adalbert’s corpse. Bolesław’s act so impressed the Pope that he sent Otto III - the head of the Holy Roman Em-pire - to Gniezno in 1000 to view Adalbert’s remains and meet with Bolesław. It was during this meeting that an archbishopric was established in Gniezno, and 25 years later Bolesław had himself crowned King. Commonly known as ‘Bolesław the Great’ or ‘Bolesław Chrobry’ the nation’s fi rst regent is credited with uni-fying the regions of Poland, as well as strengthening Poland’s international standing through his smart di-plomacy. Although his son and heir, Mieszko II, died in suspicious circumstances nine years into his reign, the Piasts remained in power and continued to rule Poland for centuries, despite frequently fi nding themselves in confl ict with the landowners. Poland’s fragile unity regularly threatened to disintegrate, and upon the 1320 coronation of Władysław I concerted eff orts were again made to unite Poland’s various provinces. The work of Władysław was carried on by King Kazimierz, who would later be known as ‘Kazimierz the Great’ - he doubled the size of Poland, stabilised the economy, commissioned the construction of a numerous castles and forts, and eventually got himself on the 50zł note. What he failed to do, however, was have a son (despite the eff orts of four wives), and his death in 1370 marked the end of the Piast dynasty. Although the royal court was moved to Kraków in the 11th century the Wielko-polska region is synonymous with the Piasts and their time at Poland’s helm. Today, a special tourist route called ‘The Piast Route’ connects the most important sites integral to Poland’s early beginnings; for a com-prehensive list visit the website of the Piast Route Tour-ist Organisation: www.turystyka.powiat-gniezno.pl.


Culture & Events

Graaammatik, 14.11 in SQQ ClClubub

Culture & Events

THEATRE STAGESMUSIC THEATRE (TEATR MUZYCZNY)QG-4, ul. Niezłomnych 1e, tel. (+48) 61 852 29 27, www.teatr-muzyczny.poznan.pl. Box offi ce open 09:00 - 19:00, Mon 09:00 - 15:00, Sat 15:00 - 18:00; Sun 15:00 - 17:00 on performance days only. Tickets 5-120zł.

POLISH THEATRE (TEATR POLSKI)QB-2, ul. 27 Grudnia 8/10, tel. (+48) 61 852 56 28, www.teatr-polski.pl. Box offi ce open from 10:00 until the last performance; Sat, Sun 1 hour before performances. Closed Mon. Tickets 30-70zł.

BALLET13.12 SATURDAYMOSCOW CITY BALLET - THE NUTCRACKERTchaikovsky's beloved Christmastime classic The Nutcracker is making an appearance this holiday season. And yes, there will be the Sugar Plum Fairy, Snowfl akes, Flowers, the Nutcracker himself - and plenty of magic, no matter if you're a child or an adult. All performed by the Moscow City Ballet, and you better believe those Russians know how to dance!QE-4, Poznań International Fair, ul. Głogowska 14, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 120-160zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

14.12 SUNDAYMOSCOW CITY BALLET - SWAN LAKEThis timeless and well-known performance, with its costumes, music, and fantastic story, needs no intro-duction. It is with dexterity and perfection that the dancers of the Moscow City Ballet bring Peter Tchai-kovsky's fantasy “Swan Lake” back to life once more. Briefly, the story is of girls that have been turned into swans and live on a lake of tears - a curse that can only be broken by a prince's love. But even if you know the story, the world class performance by the Moscow City Ballet is enough reason to attend a second time.QE-4, Poznań International Fair, ul. Głogowska 14, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Event starts at 17:00. Tickets 120-160zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

25.01 SUNDAYSARA BARASEnjoying Kejaleo? For more fl amenco, look no further than Sara Baras and her ballet show Voces (Voices). If you miss the award-winning dancer in Poznań, fear not: she's tour-ing all over, so you'll also get to see her perform in Warsaw, Kraków, Łódź, Gdańsk, and Wrocław.QPoznań Interna-tional Fair, ul. Głogowska 14. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 220-250zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

ART GALLERIESARSENAŁ CITY GALLERYQC-2, Stary Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 61 852 95 02, www.arsenal.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

ARTISTIC CERAMICSQD-2, ul. Woźna 4, tel. (+48) 61 853 02 35, www.ceramikawozna.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

ART STATIONS FOUNDATIONQG-4, Stary Browar, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 61 859 61 22, www.artstationsfoundation5050.com. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

GARBARY 48 GALLERYQD-3, ul. Garbary 48, tel. (+48) 61 852 91 70, www.garbary48.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

CINEMASCHARLIE MONROE KINO MALTAQC-3, ul. Rybaki 6a, tel. (+48) 605 47 44 99, www.kinomalta.pl. Box offi ce open from 15 minutes before the fi rst showtime. Tickets 7-16zł.

MULTIKINO MALTAQK-5, Galeria Malta, ul. Abpa A. Baraniaka 8, tel. (+48) 61 628 17 24, www.multikino.pl. Box offi ce open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 16-36zł.

PAŁACOWEQA-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (Castle Cultural Centre), tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.ckzamek.pl. Box offi ce open 10:00 - 21:00. Tickets 14-17zł. Groups (minimum 10 people) 13zł/person.

RIALTOQE-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. (+48) 61 847 53 99, www.kinorialto.poznan.pl. Box offi ce open from 30 min-utes before the fi rst showtime to 15 minutes after last showtime. Tickets 10-18zł, 3D screenings 15-20zł.

CULTURAL CENTRESCASTLE CULTURAL CENTREQA-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.ckzamek.pl. Box offi ce open 10:00 - 21:00. Admis-sion depending on repertoire.

POZNAŃ ESTRADAQC-1, ul. Masztalarska 8, tel. (+48) 61 852 88 33, www.estrada.poznan.pl. Box offi ce open 15:00 - 18:00; Tue, Fri 10:00 - 13:00; Sat, Sun on performance days only.

PHILHARMONIC STAGESPOZNAŃ PHILHARMONIC (FILHARMONIA POZNAŃSKA IM. TADEUSZA SZELIGOWSKIEGO)QC-2, ul. Św. Marcin 81, tel. (+48) 61 852 47 08, www.fi lharmoniapoznanska.pl. Box offi ce (University Hall, F-3, ul. Wieniawskiego 1) open 13:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 1 hour before the performance. Tickets 15-400zł.

CONCERTS12.11 WEDNESDAYLIVING COLOURThis American rock band formed in 1984 in NYC and have gone through numerous line-up changes through the years. The song you're most likely to know them for is "Cult of Personality", a 1988 hit that won the group a Grammy. We're waiting for their newest album, Shade!QEskulap Club, ul. Przybyszewskiego 39 (Grunwald), www.livingcolour.com. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100-125zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

17.11 MONDAYYIRUMA36-year-old South Korean composer and pianist Yiruma does what could arguably be called contemporary classical music, but his style is not so simple to classify. He studied in King's College London, breaking into the European mar-ket - now his concerts regularly sell out.QE-4, Poznań In-ternational Fair, ul. Głogowska 14, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 130-190zł. Avail-able at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

22.11 SATURDAYYAMATOFollowing on from their last successful trip, this famous collection of Japanese drummers are visiting Poland once again to give another series of concerts. The programme involves... well... lots of drumming, mixed in with tradi-tional string instruments such as koto, chappa, shino-bue and samisen. But it's not just about the music - the energy and humour of the musicians means there's never a dull moment and the choreography and acrobatics add extra spice.QE-4, Poznań International Fair, ul. Głogowska 14, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 135-195zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

RED BOX

07.11 FRIDAYRED BOXBritish band Red Box have an interesting story behind their name: the box in question was left behind after a college performance by rock band Slade. The pop group attach additional meaning to the rather political color and the shape itself - apparently a square is the North Native American term for a white man. Do “Lean on Me” and “For America” ring a bell?QA-1, Blue Note Jazz Club, ul. Kościuszki 79, www.bluenote.poznan.pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 59-80zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).


Culture & EventsCulture & Eventsversity Hall, ul. Wieniawskiego 1. Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 105-125zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

20.12 SATURDAYVIENNA MOZART ORCHESTRAWhat would Vienna be without its Mozart Orchestra? Well, all right - the city would still be great with its abundance of cultural wealth, but the truth is that the Orchestra has been a fi xture of Viennese concert life since its foundation in 1986, and it's diffi cult to imagine its lack. Now they are bringing the magic of Mozart to the Poznań International Fair - just in time for Christmas, too.QE-4, Poznań Interna-tional Fair, ul. Głogowska 14, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 159-239zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

21.12 SUNDAYGREGORIANNotoriously diffi cult to google, Gregorian are a German band that does exactly what you would expect: Gregorian chants. But this being the 21st century, they mix it up a bit by performing their own versions of modern hits - every-thing from "Nothing Else Matters" to "My Heart Will Go On". Worth a listen - it's a novelty.QPoznań International Fair, ul. Głogowska 14, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 139-199zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

11.01 SUNDAYANNEKE VAN GIERSBERGEN & DANIEL CAVA-NAGHThis three-part concert will consist of solo Anneke, solo Danny, and a lovely duet. Van Giersbergen is best known for singing in Dutch atmospheric doom metal band The Gathering (which is currently on hiatus), but she has also worked on a solo project titled after herself. Cavanagh, on the other hand, is a founding member of British prog rock band Anathema. The two will perform acoustic versions of their hits.QB-1, Pod Minogą Club, ul. Nowowiejskiego 8. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 79-89zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

EXHIBITIONS06.11 THURSDAY - 30.11 SUNDAYTHE HALTSlovak artist Patrik Kovačovský and Polish artist Marcin Berdyszak have been collaborating since the early nine-ties. This exhibition showcases their diff ering approaches towards sculpture, photography, objects, and new media - and for both of them culture and art itself are reference points (whatever that means).QA-2, Centum Kultury Zamek, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

28.11 FRIDAYEDYTA BARTOSIEWICZEdyta Bartosiewicz is a vocalist and music producer from Warsaw - and also a fi ve-time Fryderyk laureate. Her fi rst solo pop-rock album, Love, was released in 1992, but real commercial success came with her 1994 album Sen (Dream), which went triple-platinum in Poland. Her newest, Renovatio, came out in October of last year.QA-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 75-85zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

29.11 SATURDAYDISCOTEXThis one-day "disco music festival" features plenty of one-hit wonders of yesteryear, mercifully given only 30 minutes each to woo the crowd with their known radio hits, though we wouldn't even describe all of those songs as "disco". This year's acts will include Alphaville, BoneyM, Francesco Na-poli, and Bad Boys Blue.QArena Hall, ul Wyspiańskiego 33 (Grunwald). Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 79-199zł. Avail-able at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

01.12 MONDAYROCK HITS: SYMPHONIC ORCHESTRASymphonic rock is one of the best things to emerge in con-temporary music, and here's a good, solid helping of it. The chamber group résonance (sic) will take on hits by Queen, The Beatles, Nirvana, The Doors, Scorpions, Pink Floyd, AC/DC, Deep Purple, Black Sabbath, Guns N' Roses, RHCP, Bon Jovi, Kiss, Eagles, Europe, Led Zeppelin, and The Rolling Stones - the entire arsenal.QPoznań International Fair, ul. Głogowska 14. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 70-150zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

06.12 SATURDAYTOMMY EMMANUELIt was a story that could easily become a feel-good Hol-lywood blockbuster: once upon a time, half a century ago, little Timmy sent a heartfelt letter to his hero, guitarist Chet Atkins and received words of encouragement; years later, in 1997, the two would record as a duo, receiving a Grammy award nomination for their song "Smokey Mountain Lul-laby". Now Emmanuel has an impressive 26 albums to his name.QA-1, University Hall, ul. Wieniawskiego 1. Con-cert starts at 19:00. Tickets 120-150zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

07.12 SUNDAYZAKOPOWER CHRISTMAS CAROLSBeing from the highland city of Zakopane, Zakopower know a thing or two about the holiday traditions of the region, and they'll combine their rich heritage with classic rock to deliver unique versions of beloved Christmas carols. So get in the holiday spirit and such.QA-1, Poznań Uni-

SQ CLUB

14.11 FRIDAYGRAMATIK30-year-old Slovenian hip-hop/dubstep artist Gramatik (aka Denis Jasarevic) has released eight albums since 2008 - most recently The Age of Reason. He initially signed to the Pretty Lights Music label, but left it last year to form his own, called Lowtemp.QConcert starts at 22:00. Tickets 35-40zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

28.11 FRIDAYOLIVER KOLETZKIScandinavia has heavy metal, Germany has DJs - a known fact. Oliver Koletzki is one of them, a 40-year-old disk jockey who’s been active for fi ve years now, after rising to international fame with the track “Der Mück-enschwarm” (“Mosquito Swarm”).QConcert starts at 22:00. Tickets 20-29zł. Available at www.biletomat.pl.

13.12 SATURDAYH.O.S.H.H.O.S.H. aka Holger Behn is a German DJ and producer and an “integral cog” in the wheel that is the Hamburg-based Dyinamic music collective. He has collaborated with Kindisch, Get Physical, Freerange, Strictly Rhyth, Dessous, and Tsuba.QConcert starts at 22:00. Tickets 20-25zł. Available at www.biletomat.pl.

H.O.S.H.

26.11 WEDNESDAYSTRAUSS GALAWaltz back to nineteenth century Vienna with beautiful music by the Strausses (father and son) performed by the ever-talented Strauss Festival Orchestra, led by conduc-tor Wojciech Rodek. Not counting the obligatory waltzes, you'll have the opportunity to listen to overtures from The Gypsy Baron and The Bat, polkas, gallops, and marches.QA-1, University Hall, ul. Wieniawskiego 1. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 70-120zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).


Culture & EventsCulture & EventsSome of the events will take place at the Poznań Stage on ul. Masztalarska 8 (C-1) and some at the New Gas House Pavilion on ul. Ewangelicka 1 (H-3) - make sure to check the programme.Qwww.madeinchicago.pl. Tickets 10-80zł. Available at www.bilety24.pl, Poznań Estrada box offi ce (C-1, ul. Masztalarska 8; open 15:00 - 18:00; Tue, Fri 10:00 - 13:00 and before the concert. Closed Sat, Sun).

19.11 WEDNESDAY - 23.11 SUNDAYOFF CINEMAOff Cinema is just what you'd expect - hand-picked un-derground fi lms that you probably won't see in your lo-cal Multikino. What the name doesn't tell you is that the focus is on documentaries from around the world; the movie selection will be accompanied by meetings with fi lmmakers, exhibitions, concerts, workshops, lectures, and discussions.QA-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, www.off cinema.pl. Please check website for updates.

21.11 FRIDAYPOZNAŃ HIP HOP FESTIVALSupposedly the biggest hip hop festival in Poland? Not sure if we're buying, but it could be a useful alternative to the numerous jazz and opera options. Here's this year's line-up: Ten Typ Mes, Sokół & Marysia Starosta, WSRH, Dongurales-ko, JWP / Bez Cenzury, O.S.T.R., and Kaczor feat Ina.QArena Hall, ul Wyspiańskiego 33 (Grunwald). Event starts at 18:00. Tickets 59-79zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

13.12 SATURDAY - 14.12 SUNDAYINTERNATIONAL ICE SCULPTURE FESTIVALIt is winter (almost), and we are in Northern Europe, so an ice sculpting festival is practically a must, don't you think? This one here has been organised for nine years now, and draws an international crowd, with expected appearances by artists from Poland, France, Bulgaria, USA, Canada, Rus-sia, Japan, and Malaysia (do they even have snow?!). Don't miss the Speed Ice Carving competition on December 13th!QC/D-1/2, The Old Town Square.

FOR THE KIDS10.12 WEDNESDAYSNOW WHITE ON ICEAfter the success of last year's Peter Pan on Ice show, Wild Rose UK Production is back with its latest off ering - Snow White on Ice.Performed by professional ice skating champions (who can boast over 200 medals in competitions including the Win-ter Olympics), this spectacle brings together a mix of ballet, dancing, circus tricks and much, much more. With music by Silvio Amato, the show has already been performed in the UK, Italy, Germany and Switzerland. Perfect for those looking to entertain their kids on those cold winter eve-nings - especially as children under two years of age are granted free entrance (with ID and a parent's lap to sit on).

QArena Hall, ul. Wyspiańskiego 33 (Grunwald), www.makroconcert.com/pl. Event starts at 18:00. Tickets 60-130zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

11.12 THURSDAYBEAUTY AND THE BEAST ON ICEDisney / related storybook characters on ice: classic fam-ily fun this time of year. Spend an afternoon watching top-notch choreography by the renowned Giuseppe Arena and listening to music composed by Silvio Amato. Beautiful rendition of a timeless fairytale.QArena Hall, ul. Wyspiańskiego 33 (Grunwald), www.makroconcert.com/pl. Event starts at 14:30. Tickets 60-130zł. Avail-able at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

OPERA13.12 SATURDAYTHE METROPOLITAN OPERA: LIVE IN HD - DIE MEISTERSINGER VON NÜRNBERGRichard Wagner's Die Meistersinger von Nürnberg (The Mas-ter-Singers of Nurenberg) is a 1868 three-part music drama fi rst performed in Munich. It tells the story of the real-life guild of Master Singers, and is perhaps most successful in its depiction of 16th-century Nureberg.QA-2, Pałacowe Cinema, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (Castle Cultural Centre), tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Event starts at 18:00. Tickets 50/40zł. Pass 450/360zł. Available at Pałacowe Cinema box offi ce (open 10:00 - 21:00).

17.01 SATURDAYTHE METROPOLITAN OPERA: LIVE IN HD - THE MERRY WIDOWThe Merry Widow, aka Die lustige Witwe, is an operetta by Austro-Hungarian composer Franz Lehár. It premiered in 1905 in Vienna, enjoying tremendous success - back then, and to this day. Strauss's The Bat is the only other oper-etta deemed good enough to be regularly performed by world-class operas!QA-2, Pałacowe Cinema, ul. Św. Mar-cin 80/82 (Castle Cultural Centre), tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Event starts at 18:55. Tickets 50/40zł. Pass 450/360zł. Available at Pałacowe Cinema box offi ce (open 10:00 - 21:00).

SPECIAL EVENTS11.11 TUESDAYST. MARTIN'S DAYFor Poznań, November 11th is not only Polish Indepen-dence Day, but also St. Martin's Day - a holiday that has been celebrated here since the Medieval times. The festival in its current form has been around since 1993, and takes the form of "St. Martin Street's Name Day". There will be a full day of attractions, including a parade at 13:00 (starting in front of St. Martin's Church), a HEY concert at 19:30, and fi reworks at 21:00.

08.11 SATURDAY - 14.12 SUNDAYERNST STEWNER - GERMAN PHOTOGRAPHER OF POLANDInter-war & WWII Poland seen through a German lens? This extensive (2000-piece) collection was discovered only very recently, in 2010 - in the Berlin archive of the photogra-pher's daughter. They were taken out of Poznań in the fi nal months of the war, as the Stewner family fl ed west in fear of the encroaching Soviet army. This exhibition will feature 160 works.QA-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/6zł. Box offi ce open 10:00 - 21:00.

28.11 FRIDAY - 10.12 WEDNESDAYGREATER POLAND: REVOLUTIONSThe purpose of the Revolutions programme is integrating and creatively provoking the local community, connecting generations, and defi ning identity through place of resi-dence. The Poznań Castle will present two projects: the Us and Them photo exhibition and We, Children of Project Earth.QA-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

FESTIVALS05.11 WEDNESDAY - 15.11 SATURDAYPOZNAŃ BAROQUEWhen the days are short and cold, sightseeing isn't as fun. Luckily music makes everything better, and this lovely Baroque Festival will grant you the opportunity to enjoy masterpieces by Bach, Händel, Vivaldi, and Monteverdi in rather fetching locations, such as the Imperial Castle. Ditch the chilly streets and come listen to international artists play the chitarrone, lirone, and arpa doppia.QEvent takes place in various locations. Tickets 20zł. Available at www.bilety24.pl and Poznań Estrada box offi ce (C-1, ul. Masztalarska 8; open 15:00 - 18:00; Tue, Fri 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun).

17.11 MONDAY - 23.11 SUNDAYMADE IN CHICAGOAh, Chicago - according to all the stats we've heard, the Windy City has the biggest Polish populace of any metro area other than Warsaw. So it's really not a big surprise that a festival of this name would exist and would indeed be or-ganized in collaboration with the Jazz Institute of Chicago.

TICKETS

CITY INFORMATION CENTREThe city information offi ce sells tickets for many local concerts, and can inform you of the theatre programme as well.QB-2, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 851 96 45, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

GREAT THEATRE

GREAT THEATRE (TEATR WIELKI)The name is a bit of a misnomer as the Great Theatre today is home to Opera and Ballet. Built in 1910 by Max Littman as a city theatre house for the German population of what was then Prussian Posen, the last German performance was held in 1919 before the Wielkopolska Uprising. Plays continued to be performed until 1924 when it became the full-time home to Polish Opera. Under the Nazis the building received a renovation led by the German architect Paul Bankarten but was soon caught up in the whirlwind of WWII where it served as a hospital for wounded German soldiers between 1943 and 1945. Despite extensive damage to the city of Poznań in the German retreat to Berlin, the ‘theatre’ was able to begin performances of Opera and Ballet again in 1945, something which has continued to this day.QA-1, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 00, www.opera.poznan.pl. Box offi ce open 13:00 - 19:00; Sun 16:00 - 18:00 on performance days only. Tickets 6-130zł. Y

11.01 SUNDAYPORTRAITPortrait is a Polish opera by Mieczysław Wajnberg based on the short story by Russian writer Nikolai Gogol, and it deals with a young, talented writer who comes into the possession of a portrait endowed with magical properties. Directed by David Pountney, this show won Best Play at the Jan Kiepura Theatre Music Awards in 2014.QTickets 20-90zł.

09.11 SUNDAY, 12.11 WEDNESDAY, 08.01 THURSDAY, 09.01 FRIDAYTHE ANGEL OF THE ODDThe Angel of the Odd, the original Series of Unfortunate Events from the twisted but no less brilliant mind of Edgar Allen Poe is coming to the opera in a new songifi ed version composed by Bruno Coli. The grotesque and darkly humorous tale is premiering in the original English language edition - that’s right, no getting lost in translation this time.QTickets 10zł.

Photo by K. Zalewska


RestaurantsRestaurants

AMERICAN CLASSICSeemingly divorcing themselves from the well-known Sioux franchise, but changing almost nothing, this hokey, but endearing Central European take on the Wild West is good fun, especially with little outlaws. The spaghetti western décor of wagons, wigwams and staff dressed as ranch hands lends it a bit of a theme park at-mosphere, and the menu can’t seem to decide between steakhouse, Mexican cantina, American diner, and Eu-ropean tavern, but most everyone we know admits this tourist trap is a guilty pleasure.QD-2, Stary Rynek 93, tel. (+48) 61 851 62 86, www.restauracjaclassic.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (15-99zł). TGSW

SOMEPLACE ELSESome baulk at the prices, but there’s no escaping that Someplace Else is the full monty - here’s a place that gets both food and drink completely right, with a largely American/Tex-Mex menu hitting points for the best burger for miles - sometimes that’s just what you need. The diner design is straight out of road-trip USA, and a great spot for ties-off , after-offi ce chow and beers. Check out their new menu and make it one of the options if you’re looking for that game - European or American.QE-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl. Open 17:00 - 00:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (14-67zł). TUGSW

FRENCH LE PALAIS DU JARDINA standout restaurant that’s been winning the plaudits for years. The main square location may mark it out as a tourist trap, but that couldn’t be further from the truth - Le Palais scores points for excellent nouvelle cuisine, as well as a wine cellar that knocks spots off the com-petition. As evening hits expect this modern, cream-coloured eatery to fill out with big shots making full use of the expense account.QC-2, Stary Rynek 37, tel. (+48) 61 665 85 85, www.lepalaisdujardin.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (19-89zł). TGSW

Poznań might have a reputation as an international centre of commerce but its restaurant scene is still very much in its infancy. You will fi nd a scattering of world-class restaurants, but you’re ethnic options are limited in both number and quality. While In Your Pocket once listed every venue in the city, the explosion of the market and its sheer redundancy now makes that pursuit impossible. Our print guide carries a wide selection of what we feel are Poznań’s most note-worthy restaurants, however there are many more listed on our website (poznan.inyourpocket.com) where we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places you’ve visited.

All our reviews are updated regularly, completely subjec-tive and unsolicited. The fi gures we quote in brackets repre-sent the cheapest and costliest main courses on the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when you can expect the chef to be working. Where the venue is not on our map we have included the district it is located in brackets.

Here is a selection of recommendations depending what you are looking for.

SPLURGEAny ‘best of’ list in Poznań is invariably going to see a slew of nominations for Blow Up Hall 5050 (International), where you’ll fi nd very modern versions of Polish cooking in an impossibly cutting edge neo-industrial setting. For upmarket on the market square, think nowhere else but Le Palais (French), or for something out of the centre the dar-ingly modern Hugo (International) is an ideal destination.

COUPLESFigaro (Italian) is so over-the-top you half expect to be served by Cupid himself. For something completely diff er-ent, think of all the naughty things you can do under the table in the pitch black of Dark Restaurant (see our box on p.27). And what could be more intimate than dining in Poznań’s smallest restaurant? Vine Bridge (International) promises the cosiness of only two other tables besides your own, and creative dishes you can share with your date.

POLISHRatuszova is ideal for the seminal ‘meat piled three feet high’ experience. Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem serves up Polish food like pierogi and pork loin in a rustic mountain lodge setting, while Restauracja MUGA takes Polish cui-sine and gives it a modern makeover.

ETHNICMost ethnic options in Poz are famously sub-standard, but if you’re already sick of Polish food, Le Palais (French) is leg-endary, and the Turkish delights at Mavi Kus (Vegetarian) are a serious breath of fresh air. Sushi has been the fad food in PL for several years and we can recommend Zindo.

SQUAREThe options here can be overwhelming, but Brovaria (International) is always reliable for a meaty meal or beer snacks to accompany your Pils, while Gospoda Poznańska is the place to go for quality traditional food served by cos-tumed waitresses. For a less formal meal Whiskey In the Jar (see Bars & Pubs) serves up burgers, whiskey cocktails and live rock bands.

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SYMBOL KEY

G No smoking T Child-friendly

6 Animal friendly N Credit cards not accepted

S Take away U Facilities for the disabled

V Home delivery X Smoking room available

E Live music W Wi-fi connection

Fusion means uniqueness and creativity in searching for new and surprising combinations. Our open-kitchen restaurant serves fusion-style cuisine, blending European taste with oriental note.

Please join us for Sunday Brunches,

Thursday Mediterranean Buffets and

many other delicacies from our Fusion

menu.

Book the unique Chef’s Table. Enjoy a

wide variety of wines in our Wine Tower.

Advanced reservation required.

Fusion Restaurant (Sheraton Poznan Hotel)ul. Bukowska 3/9, Poznanphone 61 655 [email protected] facebook.com/restauracja.fusion.poznan


Restaurants Restaurants

FUSION FUSION RESTAURANTTop class dining in the Sheraton’s showpiece restaurant. Chic and sexy this is designer dining the way it’s meant to be with inventive dishes like Thai style noodles appearing from out of the open kitchen. Floor to ceiling windows al-low for plenty of light, as well as views of the proletariat scurrying to work. Also of interest is their intimate wine room which can be booked in advance for up to 4 people, a menu created with the chef and where over 60 wines are available to go with the meal of your choice.QE-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.fusion-poznan.pl. Open 06:30 - 11:00, 12:00 - 22:30, Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 13:00 - 17:00. (40-85zł). TUGSW

PRACOWNIAThere was a time back when non-carnivore tourists had to make do with either cheese-fi lled pierogi, boiled cabbage or potatoes. But the times they are certainly a-changing. This little restaurant sets the standards high and the gar-den, with its perfect mix of candles and plants, makes for the perfect romantic setting. In a country not known for its love of spicy cuisine, the ‘hot Thai curry’ goes down very well and the samosa starters are a great way to get you prepared for your main dish. Big thumbs up all round.QD-2, ul. Woźna 17, tel. (+48) 61 639 35 95, www.pracowniacafe.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (16-35zł). T6G�SW

SHADESThe Don Prestige has seen an impressive reboot from top to bottom, with the new ShaDes restaurant the fi-nal touch on one of the better city centre hotels. The space is a cozy mix of plums and greens with an elabo-rate bar that promotes an impressive array of cocktails and a seasonal menu of simple sandwiches and entrees that prove ShaDes was not an afterthought in the ho-tel’s redesign.QC-2, ul. Św. Marcin 2 (Don Prestige Ho-tel), tel. (+48) 61 859 05 05, www.donprestige.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. (12-70zł). TGSW

INDIAN SHIVAZRegular readers of our Poznań guide will know that the city has had some issues with ethnic food over the years, none so much as Indian. Not here though. If it’s Indian you want then this is the recommended place in this city, though because of the paucity of the competition that’s not the plaudit it might sound. Lunches from 11:30-15:30 Mon-Fri include a 19zł vegetarian option and an 24zł meat option.QF-3, Ul. Mierzyńskiego 16/3a (entrance from ul. 27 Grudnia), tel. (+48) 61 855 75 57, www.restauracjaindyjskashivaz.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:30, Sun 12:00 - 21:30. (20-34zł). UVGSW

TAJ INDIAFor those staying in the centre, it’s easy to overlook Taj India due to its location up at Lake Malta. But if a walk around Malta is on your to-do list then you could do a lot worse than pop in for a bite to eat. Granted, from the outside it doesn’t look like much, but the inside decor is authentic without being too over the top and the staff are extremely helpful. The menu provides all you’d expect from an Indian restaurant, including Chicken Vindaloo, Lamb Roghan Josh, a good selection of veggie options and all the extras - naans, beers, poppadoms and the like - required to supplement the meal.QJ-4, ul. Wi-ankowa 3, tel. (+48) 61 876 62 49, www.tajindia.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (18-44zł). TUGSW

INTERNATIONAL 3 KOLORYOverlooking Lake Malta, 3 Kolory is a bright, modern and wel-coming restaurant which is defi nitely worthy of a visit despite its location on the far side of the lake. The menu caters to all tastes (salads, fi sh, steaks, pizzas, spaghetti) and the dishes are so beautifully presented (steaks served on cedar planks!) that it’s almost a shame to have to eat them. But don’t let that stop you. The food is cooked via the sous vide technique (low temps) and on grill stones to create unique fl avours. The karkówka steak would be our personal recommendation, but to be fair every dish being brought out of the kitchen looked tempting and a return visit is certainly on the cards.QK-4, ul. Wiankowa 3, tel. (+48) 501 40 28 27, www.3-kolory.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. (25-105zł). TVGSW

BISTRO FRIENDLY FOODLocated slap-bang in student central this little cafe-bar is a hit. With a warm organic feel and a delicious menu of light meals and snacks (such as pancakes, hot dogs and salads), we sampled a salmon sandwich and fresh fruit milkshake and were very impressed. What sets Bistro Friendly Food apart are two things. One is its claim as the fi rst gluten-free bistro in Poland. The second is that it also doubles as a shop, allow-ing clients to stock up on healthy products, including breads, natural jams, spices and other tasty treats we guarantee you won’t be able to refuse.QB-3, ul. Taczaka 17, tel. (+48) 665 45 08 58, www.friendlyfood.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. (12-22zł). TGSW

BLOW UP HALL 5050Blow Up 5050 is a combination of gastronomy and art that will blow your socks off . The name is a combination of the 1966 Antonioni thriller combined with the owner’s philoso-phy of making all her enterprises 50% art and 50% business. Complementing the award winning hotel and bar is the res-taurant, where prices are at the very top end of the Poznań market - as is the quality. Pop in for the four course lunch from Mon-Fri 13:00-17:00 and you’ll only be shelling out 46zl. The surroundings will leave you feeling you’ve become part of a living art exhibition, making it a truly unique experience in Poland, and perhaps even Europe.QG-4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 90, www.blowuphall5050.com. Open 07:00 - 10:30, 13:00 - 23:00. (40-150zł). TUGW

Restaurant & Bar

SEASONAL | HOMEMADE | ARTISTIC

DELICIOUS | ENJOYABLE | SMART

ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. +48 61 859 05 [email protected], www.donprestige.com

DARK RESTAURANT“Adventurous” isn’t a word we often like to pair with the word “dining” (after all, that’s how folks on reality TV end up eating spiders), but this place proves to be the exception. As its name implies, Dark Restaurant is devoted to having diners eat their dinner in inky black-ness. We’re not talking mood lighting, either; the cav-ernous room is so dark that the waiters actually wear night vision goggles. The idea behind Dark Restaurant is that by impairing your sense of sight, you enhance your other senses, which makes for a more exciting dining experience. It’s also a great excuse to eat with your hands, because utensils are completely useless without the benefi t of eyesight. Each of the menu themes - bizarre food, mood food, and a more standard option - comes with a variety of courses, and you aren’t told what you’re digging into until the meal is over. All these factors add up to a messy and intriguing meal that will have you guessing with every bite. Sure, some of the foods are obvious, but basil ice cream? Oranges with sea salt? Your tongue will undoubtedly be tan-talized. Fortunately, your meal ends with a chance to talk with your waiter and the head chef, who delight in making you guess what you ate.QD-2, ul. Garbary 48, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 57, www.darkrestaurant.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:30, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (60-120zł). T6GSW


Restaurants Restaurants BROVARIAGo formal and pick the right hand room for a smoothly subdued dining area or else do as the rank-and-fi le and head either to the brewing hall outback, the bar to the side, or the al fresco terrace. Brovaria have something for everyone, with the premium prices reserved for a tender fi llet steak served with a separate bowl of swirly mashed potato. Or consider tucking into the beer feast - essentially a huge platter piled inches high with a mix of seafood and meat. Not for nothing have Brovaria been crowned king of the expatriate scene.QC-2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (23-64zł). TGSW

CONCORDIA TASTEThis place has always been an editorial favourite thanks to its willingness to buck trends and try something dif-ferent. The design is what you would call post-industrial and the clientele sharp-dressed and out to impress. The food comes beautifully presented by effi cient staff and the menu features some mouth-watering options such as lamb with roasted beets, artichokes and port sauce. There’s now a live cooking station, and local DJs some-times take to the decks to provide a chilled-out mood, so check out what’s on beforehand.QE-3, ul. Zwierzyniec-ka 3, tel. (+48) 61 667 44 19, www.concordiataste.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (18-69zł). TUGSW

DĄBROWSKIEGO 42Climb up the steps and enter what is one of the city’s more innovative and fresh-looking restaurants. The light and airy wood-fi lled rooms make it a great place to drool over the menu (while we weren’t able to sample everything this time, the pork tenderloin with chanterelle mushroom sauce has certainly given us an excuse to return) and a great little kids area allows you to enjoy your meal in peace.QE-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 42 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 797 99 79 95, www.dabrowskiego.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (18-62zł). T6IGSW

DELICJAPoznań fi ne dining doesn’t get better than this. Winner of countless accolades, Delicja serves a combo of French, Italian and Polish recipes including superb pieces of cooking such as roast lamb and fi sh atop truffl e puree. This defi nitely falls at the upper end of the food chain, and the interior comes fi lled with silver candleholders, immaculate linen and classical music, which is performed live on Friday evenings.QB-2, Pl. Wolności 5, tel. (+48) 61 852 11 28, www.delicja.eu. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Sunday by prior arrangement only. (48-85zł). T6EGSW

FLAVORIATucked away deep inside the IBB Andersia Hotel, Fla-voria isn’t the type of place you just stumble across by accident. But those willing to sniff it out will find a

smart, modern restaurant with a good mixture of inter-national cuisine ranging from standard buffet break-fasts (06:30 - 11:00 daily) to more sophisticated evening dishes like boar loin and garlic. With daylight streaming through the large windows by day and dim candle-light during dinner, Flavoria is one of the city’s more formal restaurants, ideal for business lunches and other such upmarket eating occasions.QG-4, Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 667 80 81, www.andersiahotel.pl. Open 06:30 - 11:00, 13:00 - 23:00. (33-95zł). TGW

HUGOWe’re pretty sure Hugo is where the term ‘food porn’ was invented. The menu of modern European fare is so artfully presented it’s hard to decide whether to grab your fork or your camera. The menu changes so often that the only static dish we can mention is the worthy truffle egg starter. And after some of the over-the-top interiors found in Old Town restaurants, the chic simplicity and soft lighting of Hugo (which is located inside a renovated military barracks) makes you feel like an actual adult, not a bull in a knickknacks shop.Qul. Wojskowa 4 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 697 99 01 93, www.hugorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 16:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (39-80zł). TUXSW

LE TARGAn excellent place to indulge in some fine food whilst taking in the sights and sounds of Stary Browar. A modern and classy interior is matched with a spot-on menu which uses fresh, organic ingredients. As well as serving up all-day breakfasts, salmon fillets, piz-zas and pastas, the bread is cooked on-site and their home-made jams will leave you licking your lips and wanting more. If the sun is shining, enjoy your lunch in the garden terrace.QG-4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 44, www.le-targ.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. (19-59zł). TUGBSW

NEW RESTAURACJA MUGAThere have been plenty of new restaurants opening their doors over recent months, but if one deserves a watchful eye it’s MUGA. Located right next door to Casa de Vinos wine bar (just step through the glass door), this place has managed to serve up a perfect mixture of fine European food, great service and excellent wine. The seasonal menu rivals anything else we’ve sampled and the bright, well-lit interior makes for a warm and invit-ing stay. Veering towards the higher-end of the scale, MUGA is a perfect spot for courting couples, business deals and those looking to impress. First-daters should head to the far corner where intimacy is almost encour-aged.QC-3, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 10 35, www.restauracjamuga.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (55-90zł). TGW

DECODING THE MENU

Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego! (Enjoy your meal!)

śniadania breakfastzupa soupprzystawki appetisersdania główne main dishesdodatki side dishesziemniaki potatoeskapusta cabbageser cheesechleb breadwarzywa vegetablesowoce fruitmięso meatkurczak chickenwieprzowina porkwołowina beefryba fi shdeser dessertciasto cakelody ice creamnapoje drinkskawa coff eepiwo beer

TIPPING TRIBULATIONS

Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for for-eigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrifi ed to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultur-al slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pock-eted all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment.Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generos-ity). As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually un-heard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change.


Restaurants RESTAURACJA U MYŚLIWYCHThe majority of visitors to Poznan will stick to the res-taurants dotted around the main market square but U Myśliwych off ers a great alternative. This is a top-notch joint with some of the most mouth-watering dishes you will encounter in the city. Specialising in game, the menu boasts plenty of venison dishes a well as a fi ne selection of fi sh and other meats. As you’d imagine, the setting is pretty smart, so make sure you dress accordingly and keep enough change for a taxi fare as there’s not much chance you’ll want to be doing any walking afterwards.QA-1, ul. Karola Libelta 37, tel. (+48) 61 852 99 03, www.umysliwych.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. (30-100zł). TGS

SPOT.A beautiful looking place with a post-industrial swagger inside a former red brick factory complex. Black/white co-lours, retro kitsch plastic chairs and a few bare bricks give it a sharp, design look, while the petite international menu now includes gluten-free dishes. With Belgian lagers, a large selection of wines and their own sommelier, this is Poznań at its cutting edge best.QG-5, ul. Dolna Wilda 87, tel. (+48) 61 835 88 40, www.spot.poznan.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (28-61zł). TUGSW

VINE BRIDGEIs Vine Bridge the smallest restaurant in Poland? Their three-table dining room sure makes a good case for their claim. Each table is garnished with a tiny tomato plant, echoing the wee-ness of the experience. The menu off ers intriguing dishes like “stone soup,” “meat in clay” and “bear paw,” which are meant to echo items made hundreds of years ago in Ostrówek (appropriately, Poland’s smallest city), where the restaurant is located. The restaurant is the brainchild of the Dark Restaurant folks, which means it’s unlikely you will leave unsatisfi ed - and the dishes themselves will be worthy of photographs. And though it’s the last place we’d bring kids, they even have a tiny two-item children’s menu.QI-3, ul. Ostrówek 6, tel. (+48) 61 875 09 34, www.vinebridge.pl. Open 12:30 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (20-45zł). T6GSW

WERANDA LUNCH & WINEWeranda is a restaurant worthy of its setting at the con-fl uence of the old and new portions of the vast Stary Bro-war shopping centre, with an open two-story skylit space (what the hell are those colourful things hanging from the ceiling?) that is breathtaking even in a building that’s known for its architecture. If upscale mall dining exists then Weranda has perfected it, with a dish of the day (27zl from 12:00-16:00) that can be anything from pasta to grilled meat to whatever strikes the chef’s fancy. All of it can be paired with wine, easily making shopping an afterthought.QG-4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 859 69 69, www.werandafamily.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 09:45 - 20:00. (30-37zł). TUGSW

MILK BARS

A lot has changed since communism got knee-capped and Poland joined the EU. While many of the old ways of the old days have dis-appeared or become slightly disneyfi ed in today’s tourist-laden

Kraków, one relic remains resolutely un-Western: the Polish milk bar, or bar mleczny. These steamy caf-eterias serving proletariat cuisine to an endless queue of tramps, pensioners and students provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the at-mosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas station rest-room. We love them. For the cost of a few coins you can eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely well-fed one. Put Ostrów Tumski on hold, a visit to the milk bar is a required cultural experience for anyone who has just set foot in the country.As restaurants were nationalised across the country by PL’s communist authorities after WWII, milk bars appeared in their place to provide cheap, dairy-based meals to the masses (as cheerlessly as possible, ap-parently); in fact meals at the local milk bar were of-ten included in a worker’s salary. In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars off ered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as fl our-based foods like pierogi. Times were so desper-ate under communism that many milk bars chained the cutlery to the table to deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning you’ll notice that most milk bars today use disposable dishes and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic cups with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still taken by ashen-faced, all-business babcias (Polish grannies), and the food is as inspired as ever - the only diff erence being that meat is no longer rationed in modern PL. With the collapse of commu-nism most bar mleczny went bankrupt, however, some of these feed museums were saved and continue to be kept open through state subsidies. The range of avail-able dishes begins to fall off as closing time approach-es, so go early, go often.

APETYTQG-3, ul. Szkolna 4, tel. (+48) 61 852 07 42. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.

POD ARKADAMIQG-3, Pl. Ratajskiego 10, tel. (+48) 61 852 22 98. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. N

PRZYSMAKQG-3, ul. Podgórna 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 13 39. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. N

TRATTORIA DONATELLO


Restaurants Restaurantshome. You can’t. Even the straightforward grilled veggies seem elevated somehow. An Italian restaurant delightfully free of cliché but full of fl avour.QB-2, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. (+48) 61 852 53 33, www.mollini.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (20-60zł). TGSW

PIANO BAR RESTAURANT & CAFEAttached to the side of the Stary Browar Shopping Mall, Piano Bar rates as one of the top options in Poz. The back-ground aesthetics are fantastic, with cream shades paired with moody lighting and striking art exhibitions. Although you’ll fi nd all the expected pasta and meat meals it’s the fi sh that tends to steal the show here, which is something of a result in landlocked Poznań.QC-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (28-140zł). T6UEGSW

JAPANESE GOKOGoko should shorten their name to Go: it’s good, and that’s all you need know. The Poznań sushi race is hotting up, and Goko are a good bet if you want to land fresh fi sh in a de-cent atmosphere. Seen as a narrow space kitted out with red leather seating, the only disappointment are whited out windows that render people watching impossible. An additional reason to dine: there are regular discounts on various dishes and drinks depending on when you stumble in.QB-3, ul. Ratajczaka 18 (Pasaż Apollo), tel. (+48) 61 639 06 39, www.goko.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (11-79zł). TUVGSW

KURO BY PANAMOThe tendency in Poland is for a new cuisine to be launched and then a procession of new restaurants to open all serv-ing pretty much the same ‘fashionable’ cuisine. Here Kuro have taken the cuisine of a few years ago - Sushi - and mixed it with the cuisine of the last year - Thai. The results to be fair are very, very good and the ul. Wodna location means you won’t have to go far to fi nd it. Find both hot and cold Japanese dishes and some very tasty Thai in a hand-some room with remarkably friendly people working there.QD-2, ul. Wodna 8/9, tel. (+48) 61 887 04 30, www.kuro.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20-40zł). TGSW

KYOKAI SUSHI BARThe City Park development just to the west of the centre (past the trade fairs) is home to some of the city’s best eating establishments and this is true for Kyokai, one of Poznań’s best Japanese eff orts. Sushi sets revolve around a circular bar, Tokyo-style, while a sushi sensei multitasks in the thick of it all. The surroundings, set in a series of converted red brick buildings, look chic and sexy as do the clientele. Defi nitely one to check out.Qul. Wojskowa 4 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 519 37 61 82, www.kyokai.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (35-60zł). TU�VGSW

ITALIAN DONATELLOIf fi ve pages of pizzas to choose from doesn’t convince you of what Donatello’s star attraction is, then the swift trade in takeout will: we watched one employee whose sole task it was to assemble pizza boxes for delivery. Toppings include ev-erything from mussels to anchovies, and you can even build your own if the double-digit options somehow don’t appeal to you. The customary trattoria décor is easily outshined by the food, which also includes plenty of pasta dishes and crispy garlic bread. Also at ul. Wrocławska 7, and ul. Tatrzańska 1-5 (Jeżyce).QE-3, ul. Grunwaldzka 29c, tel. (+48) 61 865 32 99, www.donatello.poznan.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. (17-60zł). TUIVGS

FIDELIOA Venetian-style restaurant with so much garlic dangling from the ceiling that vampires should beware. The rustic and romantic décor also includes the traditional empty wine bottles and piles of fake fruit, not to mention ‘amore mio’ scratched into one wall. A good spot for an intimate twosome, where you can fi ll your date with fresh pasta and gnocchi.QH-3, ul. Garbary 50, tel. (+48) 61 852 67 94, www.fi delio-ristorante.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (19-78zł). TGSW

FIGARORomantic repasts and serious business dinners take place amongst these starched tablecloths and vases of fl owers. Prices are steep, but well within the spending power of most Western visitors. Diners can choose from a large list of pastas, beef tenderloin, veal and an expansive wine list. What Figaro is famous for though is its fi sh menu, said to be the best in the city. Those wanting to really push the boat out may wish to take advantage of the restaurant’s newly-opened VIP room, which can be hired out for those extra special occasions.QC-3, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 856 01 89, www.restauracjafi garo.eu. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (25-83zł). TGSW

MILANO RISTORANTEAn interior of polished woods, potted palms and crisp linen is the backdrop for one of the best meals in Poznań. The waiters are immaculate, the cooking creative. The prices can be steep, but you’re rewarded with excellent lamb, and seafood choices.QF-2, Al. Wielkopolska 42, tel. (+48) 61 852 87 45, www.milano.poznan.pl. Open 12:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 19:00. (21-130zł). TGSW

MOLLINIThis charming Italian venture sets itself apart by letting the food speak for itself with simple dishes that will knock you out. The 25zł lunch special (which includes soup and a main course) is a steal and easily one of the city’s best-kept secrets. We aren’t kidding about the simple - your pasta can be as basic as spaghetti noodles with olive oil, garlic, to-matoes and parmesan, and in your snobbier moments you might think it sounds like something you could easily do at


Stary Rynek 55, 61-722 Poznań

Tel.: +48 618 510 513, www.ratuszova.pl

Traditional beef roulade served with black lentils and beetroot puree

Traditional Polish Cuisine

Sous Vide Technique

ul. Kramarska 15, www.zindo.plreservation (61) 853-01-78

Korean-Japanese cuisineCircular sushi bar

15% DISCOUNT ON TAKEAWAYFREE DELIVERY WITHIN 10 KM FOR ORDERS OVER 80 ZŁ

sushi60zł per person

Eat all you want

All week!

Happy hour

Buffet

12:00 - 17:00

RISTORANTE FIGAROul. Ogrodowa 17, 61-821 Poznań

tel. +48 61 856 01 89www.restauracjafigaro.eu

[email protected]


Restaurants Restaurants ZINDO SUSHI KOREAN - JAPANESE RESTAURANTAn expansion from their Warsaw and Wrocław operations, Zindo’s modern beige-heavy space still appears to be struggling to attract attention from the folks in Poznań. A lunchtime sushi buff et was the busiest we saw the place, and provides more of a bang-for-your-buck experience than the pricier dinner option. The Korean menu is a stand-out, and adventurous eaters can indulge in octopus, fried squid or raw fi sh with vegetables to test their mettle. More traditional options like kimchi are reliably well done.QD-1, ul. Kramarska 15, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 78, www.zindo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (30-70zł). TGBSW

JEWISH LUDWIKU DO RONDLAPoznań’s classic Jewish restaurant Cymes has morphed into Ludwiku do Rondla (Ludwik to the Pan, a way of saying “make my dinner!”), which means the menu is now a mix of traditional Polish cuisine as well as the consistent Jew-ish dishes (like herring in marinade and a Jewish caviar) that were the hallmark of Cymes. Note that you will have to stifl e a giggle while paging through the English transla-tions of the Jewish dishes as the poultry stomachs brewed in curry have been randomly translated as “goose cunt.” Yes, we snapped a picture too.QD-2, ul. Woźna 2/3, tel. (+48) 61 851 66 38. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (14-32zł). TGS

MEXICAN CACTUS FACTORIAThis devil-red dining spot seems to be half-heartedly at-tempting a Tex-Mex theme. Our margarita, though deli-cious, was curiously served in a martini glass, and the bar off ers signifi cantly more vodka than tequila for sampling. The schizophrenic 20+ page menu features everything from a list of pastas to aztec soup along with a smattering of quesadillas, which only adds to the confusion. Despite its fl aws the back garden appears popular, and at night the second-story club makes it easy to forget that your entrée of grilled pork neck wasn’t particularly Tex or Mex - espe-cially if you’re downing one of the bar’s more exotic fruit-laden cocktails.QD-2, ul. Ślusarska 5, tel. (+48) 510 11 18 02, www.cactusfactoria.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. (16-64zł). TGS

THE MEXICANIs the Polish food in Mexico this bad? Boyish waiters dressed as cowboys greet diners at the door, then lead you to take your chances on what might stand out as the most shock-ing meal of your year. We’d like to see a picture of the cook added to the Wanted posters, as the man is clearly a char-latan of the most sinister design. Barely defrosted tortillas arrive hidden under sickly green gunk that wastes no time in letting the guts know they’re in serious trouble.QC-1, ul. Kramarska 19, tel. (+48) 61 851 05 36, www.mexican.pl. Open 13:30 - 24:00, Wed, Thu, Sun 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. (20-41zł). TEGSW

Traditional Polish cuisine

Gospoda PoznańskaStary Rynek 82, Poznań

Reservation:[email protected]

+48 (61) 851 80 22www.gospodapoznanska.pl


Stary Rynek 55, Poznań

Tel.: +48 618 510 513

www.ratuszova.pl

Where King Jan II Kazimierz Waza

resided in 1657-1658 you may savour

authentic traditional Polish cuisine

and dishes of an international flavour

expertly prepared by our highly

experienced Chef. Four different areas

are available for our Guests:

Restaurant, Cafe, Bar & Summer Garden

Sous - Vide beef sirloin steak in cracked pepper sauce

Traditional polish ginger cake with vanilla ice - creams

Traditional Polish Cuisine

Sous Vide Technique

POLISH FOOD

Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the following to the test:

Soup: Keep your eyes peeled for Poland’s two signa-ture soups; żurek (sour rye soup with sausages and po-tatoes fl oating in it) and barszcz (beetroot, occasionally with dumplings thrown in). Table manners go out of the window when eating these two, so feel free to dunk bread rolls in them.

Bigos: You’ll either love it or vomit. Bigos, a.k.a hunters stew, is made using meat, cabbage, onion and sauer-kraut before being left to simmer for a few days. If you have second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by default.

Gołąbki: Boiled cabbage leaves stuff ed with beef, on-ion and rice before being baked in a tomato sauce. Ur-ban myth claims Poland’s King Kazimierz fed his army gołąbki before his victory outside Malbork in a battle against the Teutonic Order. The unlikely victory was attributed to the hearty meal his troops had enjoyed before hand.

Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Poland you’ll fi nd several varieties made primarily with pork, but sometimes us-ing turkey, horse, lamb and even bison. Few varieties to watch for including Krakowska, a Kraków specialty which uses pepper and garlic, kabanosy which is a thin, dry sausage fl avoured with carraway seed and wiejska; a monster-looking u-shaped sausage. Kiełbasa was also the nickname of one of Poland’s most notorious gang-land fi gures of the 90s.

Pierogi: Pockets of dough traditionally fi lled with meat, cabbage or cheese, though you will also occasionally fi nd maverick fi llings such as chocolate or strawberries.

Placki: Nothing more than potato pancakes, often paired with lashings of sour cream. Again, all your tra-ditional folksy Polish restaurants will have these on the menu, if not you have every right to raise a few ques-tions in the direction of the kitchen.

quinn.anya/www.fl ickr.com/CC BY-SA 2.0


Restaurants Restaurants

TYPICAL POLISH CUISINE - SLOW FOOD

Poznań, ul Garbary 54tel.: 061 851 99 70

[email protected]

A kitchen like at mama‘s with recipes like at Granny‘s

POLISH BAZAR 1838Set in the historic building that once housed (and will house again from 2015) the Hotel Bazar, the name of this smart restaurant honours both the building and the year it was built. Looking far pricier from the outside than it actu-ally is, the food scores well in the price to quality ratio, and is served by a friendly English-speaking staff . Along with imaginative interpretations of typical Polish dishes such as golonka (pork knuckle) you’ll fi nd pastas, salads and a vari-ety of original dishes. Defi nitely a place to impress without buckling the credit card, though you may have to protect the plastic from the exclusive shops nearby.QC-2, ul. Pa-derewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 222 68 64, www.bazar1838.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (34-66zł). TUGSW

GOSPODA POZNAŃSKALocated in what used to be the retro theme bar ‘Fever,’ Gos-poda Poznanska has certainly changed things - and for the better. The card features a fi ne choice of typical Polish fare (think lots of meat and spuds) that won’t break the bank or leave your stomach rumbling. And for those who miss the venue of old, fear not - the dance fl oor and disco ball at the back provide a good way to shake off those added pounds when the lights get dimmed and the tunes come on.QC-2, Stary Rynek 82, tel. (+48) 61 851 80 22, www.gospodapoznanska.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. Note, however, that opening hours may change from 09:00 to 10:00. (18-57zł). T6XSW

MŁYŃSKIE KOŁOFilled with dusty bottles and timber touches, the Mill Wheel is a signature Polish restaurant with a menu that takes its ingredients seriously; the fi sh are caught fi rst thing in the morning, while the duck apparently comes from the ad-jacent lake. Tell them in advance and they’ll spit-roast a pig for you. Recommended.Qul. Browarna 37 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 878 99 35, www.mlynskiekolo.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (30-70zł). T6UGSW

NOWA BAŻANCIARNIAThis Market Square restaurant recently saw a new owner take over the reins (hence a small change in name) but everything, from the menu to the interior, remains exactly as it was before. Find yourself surrounded by a selection of faux pheasant carcasses, dried fl owers and oil paintings of fruit as you scour through a menu featuring all the animals you’d expect to fi nd on a forest fl oor.QC-2, Stary Rynek 94, tel. (+48) 61 855 33 58, www.nowabazanciarnia.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Note that from December opening hours may be subject to change. (43-159zł). TIGSW

OBERŻA POD DZWONKIEMResembling a traditional mountain lodge, ‘Under the Bell’ is about as rustic as Poznań gets - and that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Giant timber beams, beauti-

ful 200-year-old wooden furniture, plus shelves burst-ing with rusty machinery, old pots and piles of dusty books help create a great atmosphere while the bar-stools are fashioned out of saddles, enabling drinkers to enjoy their cold pints in comfort. The menu focuses on traditional Polish fare and customers can expect mouth-watering dishes such as żurek soup, pork loin, pierogi (dumplings) and other local options. Score a sweet deal with soup and an entree for only 15zł Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00.QD-2, ul. Garbary 54, tel. (+48) 61 851 99 70, www.oberza.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (15-69zł). T6UGSW

PRZY BAMBERCEA long-standing restaurant squirreled away in the com-plex of buildings at the centre of the town square. Tiff any lamps, stained glass panels and other classic touches add an awkwardly formal feel to the restaurant, though that does nothing to detract from a strong European menu that includes several local dishes. The pierogi are excel-lent.QC-2, Stary Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 99 17, www.bamberka.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (20-50zł). TGSW

NEW RACJA MIĘSABare brick walls, chalked-up menus and a general stripped-down approach seems to be all the rage for new eateries in Poznań these days - and that’s certainly the path Racja Mięsa have chosen to go down. But why change a win-ning formula? It’s basic, it’s minimal but the food’s decent enough (think local soups and steaks) and the staff are happy to talk you through the menu, which changes on a regular basis. The on-wall diagrams depicting the diff erent parts of pigs and cows should be enough to get any avid meat eater excited. Yep, we like it.QD-1, ul. Szewska 20, tel. (+48) 515 692 020. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (21-55zł). 6UGSW

RATUSZOVAOne of the longest established places in town and with good reason. Located right on the main square, Ratuszova serves up a vast array of healthy and modern seasonal dishes using the innovative sous vide method not found in many other Poznań restaurants. If the beautiful and unique interior doesn’t impress you (and it should) then the menu surely will. Prepare to indulge yourself with classics such as roast duck with apple, veal cheeks, czernina (duck blood) soup, pierogi and other Polish standards. A perfect spot to spoil yourself.QC-2, Stary Rynek 55, tel. (+48) 61 851 05 13, www.ratuszova.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (19-99zł). T6GSW

Szewska 20tel. (+48) 515 692 [email protected]

/RacjaMiesaPoznan

MODERN P O L I S H CUISINE

Breakfast from 8 a.m.

tel. +48 600 836 [email protected]

More reviews online:

poznan.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants RestaurantsNEW WARTO NAD WARTĄWarto nad Wartą seems to have it bang on - a classy joint located plonk in the centre, but just far away enough to escape the hustle and bustle of the main market square. To simply label this as a Polish restaurant would be an in-justice given its range of international dishes and our main picks would be the mushroom risotto and the Rib Eye steak. The fi ne selection of desserts (and great selection of wines) coupled with a smart interior make this a fi ne start-ing point before hitting some of the city’s more upmarket bars.QC-1, Al. K. Marcinkowskiego 27a, tel. (+48) 600 83 68 46, www.wartonadwarta.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (30-80zł). T6U�VEGSW

WIEJSKIE JADŁOAfter hearing that Wiejskie Jadło had undergone a recent refurb and drafted up a new menu, we were tempted back to sample the results. We weren’t disappointed. It’s what you expect from a Polish restaurant - a warm wooden in-terior, bustling staff and big decent portions of hearty grub. We enjoyed the żurek soup and after gut-busting sausages, it’s good we didn’t have far to go - they’re located just off the market square.QD-2, Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from ul. Franciszkańska), tel. (+48) 61 853 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (17-53zł). T6UIGSW

YEŻYCE KUCHNIAYeżyce Kuchnia offers the perfect opportunity to feel like “part of the scene” and mingle with Poznan’s young, local in-crowd. The cool common room/caff-style decor is enough to keep people returning, but combine that with an ever-changing top-draw menu and you’ll soon see why this place is one of the most talked about venues in town. Food-wise, it’s traditional Polish fare served up with a bit of imagination, but the desserts and cakes make a visit to Yeżyce Kuchnia worth it alone. During the summer months, shade-totting hipsters sit in the tiny outdoor garden playing board games and swinging on hammocks.Qul. Sza-marzewskiego 17 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 663 05 06. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (15-40zł). T6GSW

SPANISH CZERWONA PAPRYKAThere’s a distinct pre-party feel to Czerwona Papryka - from the huge black bull welcoming you out front to the lively buzz and Spanish music found inside, those looking for a decent restaurant to kick-start their evening could do a lot worse. The menu allows you the chance to relive those magical mediterranean moments with a choice se-lection of tapas and other dishes to get you in the mood for the night ahead. For those not wanting to wander too far from the local fl avours, there are also a few Polish stan-dards such as zurek and gzik to tuck into. As you’d imag-

ine, there’s a decent selection of Spanish wine to work through and plenty of bubbly staff willing to keep your glasses full.QD-2, Stary Rynek 49, tel. (+48) 61 855 04 13. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (5-55zł). T6GSW

THAI FAST WOKA little gem of a place if you fancy quick, simple and tasty Thai favourites at lunch special prices, Fast Wok was recent-ly enlarged to accommodate more traffi c. Found through an archway leading from ul. Ratajczaka, Fast Wok, while having a Pole in the open kitchen, does seem to have got the basics of this ethnic dish right, something which isn’t a given in Poland. Nasi Goreng, red and green curry and chicken in black bean sauce are a few of the dishes on the concise menu.QB-2, ul. Ratajczaka 18 (Pasaż Apollo), tel. (+48) 508 52 89 89, www.fastwok.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (17-28zł). VGS

VEGETARIAN CHWIROTPoznan’s veggie restaurant scene isn’t exactly buzzing and this place will do little change that. Nondescript and with next to nothing in the way of decorations, Chwirot is more a canteen than a restaurant, off ering all the standards such as macaroni dishes, vegetable stews and potato cutlets. The service is fast and friendly and the ladies are more than happy to go through the menu in more detail with cus-tomers which does partly compensate for the lack of atmo-sphere. Perhaps a few extra touches and decorations here and there would add the something it’s missing and help transform it into a decent little eatery.QC-3, ul. Rybaki 10, tel. (+48) 61 851 04 10. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (11-17zł). 6NGS

GREEN WAYA chain of budget vegetarian restaurants that are a Polish success story. Often packed with students who know a good deal when they see one, fi nd a well prepared and generous range of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free dishes, includ-ing excellent pancakes and juices. Also at ul. Taczaka 2 (B-3) and ul. Zeylanda 3 (E-3).QB-1, ul. 23 Lutego 11, tel. (+48) 61 852 52 41, www.greenway.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (7-19zł). T6GS

MAVI KUŞPoznan’s ethnic restaurant scene has certainly blossomed over recent years and this is a great addition. Hidden down one of Poznan’s little side streets, this cosy Turkish haunt of-fers a wide variety of nutritious, healthy vegan and veggie dishes such as curries, baked potatoes, burgers, soups and salads. For those with a bit more of a sweet tooth, you could do far worse than sample one of their desserts (pancakes, waffl es, cheesecakes) or fruit cocktails. A sure-fi re winner.Qul. Jaskółcza 15, tel. (+48) 511 76 35 83. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (12-20zł). T6GSW

tel.: +48 61 855 04 13 www.tapasczerwonapapryka.pl

FIND THE BULL

The duck- specialite de la maison.

You ought to taste it.Eat Polish.

We serve traditional polish cuisine.Be sure to try the dumplings cooked

by the traditional way with a delicious filling.

Stary Rynek 77(entrance from the Franciszkańska street)

tel. (+48) 618 53 66 00e-mail: [email protected]

www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl


CafésCafésHearing the word ‘Poland’ might not immediately con-jure connotations to coff ee, cakes and cafe culture, but let’s remember it was a Pole - Jerzy Kulczycki - who opened the fi rst coff eehouse in Vienna. Poznań has more than its fair share of great cafes, though the line between cafe and bar can often be a blurry one, with clients shift-ing from coff ee to beer in the same place as day turns to night. The venues we’ve listed here tend to favour caf-feine and sweets over beer and booze, and when most cafe/bar establishments are turning up the music for their “til last guest” clientele, these are more often clos-ing their doors.

CAFE MISJASet overlooking the inner courtyard of the City Hall build-ing next to the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus, Cafe Misja is a cultural meeting place as much as anything. With a range of artistic events this is a wonderful place to sit back in what feels like someone’s lounge with fair trade coff ee and cake during the day or a beer in the evening. The very friendly staff make you feel right at home and seem happy to give you advice of how best to enjoy their city.QD-2, ul. Gołębia 1, tel. (+48) 531 58 41 87, www.cafemisja.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. T6UGSW

FARMANamed after their signature drink, a toxic coff ee liqueur, this is a great bolthole on a cold day. A direct replica of a warm continental kitchen, Farma comes crowded with lamps, fl owers and candles, as well as academic sorts leafi ng through important newspapers.QC-2, ul. Wrocławska 25, tel. (+48) 61 816 01 28, www.cafefarma.pl. Open 10:30 - 21:30, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. GSW

JUICE DRINKERSThis little juice bar hasn’t been open that long but it’s al-ready developed something of a loyal following thanks to its cosy lighting, light snacks and freshly-made smoothies. With wooden crates for tables and chairs and a basic indus-trial design, there seems to be a steady fl ow of student and business bods coming in and out of the door at all times; on our stop, we tried the ‘Cherry Hill’ smoothie (a mixture of cherry, banana, mint and apple) and can now understand why.QE-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 8, tel. (+48) 517 59 41 59. Open 08:05 - 20:05, Sat 11:05 - 20:05, Sun 11:05 - 17:05. UGSW

LAVENDA CAFFE DRINKS FOODThere are a slew of cosy little cafes dotted around the back streets of Stary Rynek, and competition is indeed tough; Lavenda slots right in there with the very best of them though. A relaxed atmosphere and a great array of hot drinks, wines and snacks (salads and pasta etc.) make this the perfect place to share a lunchtime coff ee or to meet for an intimate fi rst date.QD-2, ul. Wodna 3/4, tel. (+48) 61 852 49 95, www.lavenda-cafelunch.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. T6G�SW

MINISTER CAFEMinisterstwo Browaru has earned itself quite a reputation and is the perfect pub to fi nd a healthy mixture of expats, business types and tourists enjoying one of the best selec-tion of beers in Poz. But its sister venue - Minister CAFE - has also earned a faithful following and it’s easy enough to see why. A laid-back and homely interior awaits those who venture in and their creative menu off ers up an array of sar-nies, soups, home-made cakes and other delightful pud-dings that will leave you watching your waistline.QB-2, ul. Ratajczaka 34 (1st fl oor), tel. (+48) 601 53 37 47, www.ministerstwobrowaru.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. GW

REPUBLIKA RÓŻA three-room aff air (although the downstairs room some-times opens later than the rest) a couple minutes walk from the Market Square and directly opposite the beautiful, if rather pink, offi ces of the local city government. Wooden fl oors, fl oral prints and fl owers are the backdrop to a bus-tling little place staff ed by pretty, black uniformed women where you can enjoy a coff ee and babeczka (a Polish muf-fi n) or settle in for one of their light eats such as pierogi or salads. A local favourite famed for its breakfasts and child friendly atmosphere.QD-2, Pl. Kolegiacki 2a, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 31, www.republikaroz.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. T6GSW

TACZAKA 20The owners of the popular Kawiarnia Nocna Kisielice bar have opened an equally cool (if not cooler) café upstairs, drawing the same artsy crowd during daylight hours when they’re in need of coff ee and sandwiches. The interior fea-tures one wall covered in stray pieces of wood (more in-triguing than it sounds, we promise), the menu is a simple array of salads, pastas and snacks like hummus, while the true standout is their minimal beer selection, featuring bottled beer made locally by nearby shop Ministerstwo Browaru, German Kirsch Porter and Berliner. A low-key winner.QB-3, ul. Taczaka 20, tel. (+48) 509 82 54 45. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. T6GSW

ZIELONA WERANDANot the easiest place to fi nd despite being only a stone’s throw from the square, which makes its discovery (head into what looks like a shop to fi nd it tucked away at the back) even more of a pleasant surprise. Clearly a labour of love as refl ected by the hundreds of paper birds hanging from the ceiling which create a riot of colour set against the mismatch of wooden furnishings, exposed brick and copious shrubbery. Spread over a number of small rooms, Zielona Weranda is one of our favourite lunch spots with a tasty, well-prepared range of soups, salads, sandwiches and snacks. The tea, coff ee and cake options are so encyclo-paedic, the harder aspect of spending time here is decid-ing what to have.QC-2, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 851 32 90, www.werandafamily.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. T6UGS

BREAKFAST

Not a popular meal in Poland, breakfast (śniadania) means a cigarette and coff ee to most, or if you’re lucky a plate of ham, cheese, tomato and bread. Breakfast on Poznań’s main square is elusive, and often not available until at least 10:00. But who’s getting up early after a night on the town? Here are your best local bets for a fortifying start to the day.

BROVARIAAn open buff et costing 38zł in one of Poznan’s top locations, right on the square.QC-2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Breakfast served 07:00 - 10:00. (38zł). TGSW

FUSION RESTAURANTThe Sheraton Sunday Brunch is one of the best reasons to get out of bed. Adults pay 130zl (half price kids be-tween 6-12, free for anything younger), which covers a lavish buff et spread and a free fl ow of booze. Popular with high rolling Poles and expats who’ve just got-ten out of bed, you’ll be hard pressed to fi nd a better use for a Sunday afternoon. With Someplace Else just feet away, you can also build the live games into your schedule as well.QE-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.fusion-poznan.pl. Brunch served 13:00 - 17:00. TUG�SW

PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIEA perfect breakfast option, where the most impor-tant meal of the day is served all day. Choose from French classics like croque madame, crepes, crois-sant sandwiches, tartines and more - all made from authentic French ingredients, and delicious fresh bread that is baked on-site.QG-4, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (10-20zł). UGSW

REPUBLIKA RÓŻA recommended spot for breakfast in a cosy cafe close to the centre. Breakfast gets pride of place on the menu, and features several creative full breakfast platters, in addition to standards like scrambled eggs and omelettes.QD-2, Pl. Kolegiacki 2a, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 31, www.republikaroz.pl. Breakfast served 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (10-25zł). T6GSW

PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIEA prime location on the ground fl oor of Poznan’s bus-tling Stary Browar shopping complex means that this cafe/boulangerie is never short of customers looking to take a break from their latest spending spree. The in-terior is smart but informal, and the friendly staff busy themselves serving up everything from fresh coff ees and teas to crepes, tarts and pastries. For those look-ing for something a little more substantial it has an excellent breakfast selection and daily soups to line your stomach before sampling one of their wines. Bon appétit!QG-4, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. UGSW

HAVE YOUR SAY

If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in this guide, let the 1.1 million yearly unique visitors to our website, poznan.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every venue on our website has a function for comments, be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it.

BASILIUM Bars & PubsAbout the only place to get cider in Poznan, though not cheap! Craft beer selection is amazing,though for obvious reasons, not on the cheaper side. Spoiled by cheap, student haunts, this place can seem a little steeper, but I suppose in the grand scheme of things, 22 zloty for 2 drinks isn’t the end of the world!

Megan from Yorkshire

THE MEXICAN Mexican RestaurantsI gave this place a second chance this evening - it is worse then 3 years ago. Itshould be called (Not Mexican). I asked for a margarita and they didn’t understand what I was wanted. I could write pages about what’s wrong with the food but they don’t care. The Mexican will continue to serve gunk and junk with a smell of funk. Stay away from this place in Poznan. I feel like I was taken advantage of. My wife and 7 year old little girl who like everything only liked the Nachos that came out of a bag. It’s just wrong, what they are serving is not Mexican food. The place looks nice but don’t eat there.

Tom from Poznań


NightlifeNightlife

BARS & PUBS BASILIUMA smart and cosy little location found just off the Rynek, and well-loved by the entire IYP team. Warm lighting and decorations ranging from old gramophones to flattened beer bottles suspended from the ceiling help create a laid-back atmosphere, but the main reason for parking yourself in one of the comfy chairs or propping yourself up an empty wooden barrel is the vast selec-tion of beer on offer. Whilst there are a few on draught, it’s the rows and rows of bottles on the shelves that will have you gawping and unsure quite where to start. With over 150 brews, this is one of the best craft beer bars in Poz. In addition to this, there’s a nice selection of snacks. QD-2, ul. Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56, www.basilium.pl. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. 6UGW

BLOW UP HALL 5050Woah, if there’s one place that keeps leaving an impact it’s the Blow Up. The bar is the final word in industrial chic, with metal floors, exposed brickwork and ceilings that stretch to the clouds. The artwork is mad, and deliberately messes with your head, as do the cocktails, truly the work of a scientific hand. As for the bar itself, that’s a multi-angled, zinc plated masterpiece that has no rival, and features a Davidoff Lounge where you can buy cigars. It’s not often we attach the words unmissable to a venue, so take note and visit.QG-4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 91, www.blowuphall5050.com. Open 15:00 - 23:00. UXW

BLUE NOTE JAZZ CLUBA vast multi-level jazz club whose spangly inte-rior has shades of 90s club tragedy written all over it. Don’t let that discourage you, however, this is a legendary venue that has hosted some of the big-gest names in Polish and international jazz. Do check their website for what’s cooking first - this space has been known to be rented out for teen hip-hop nights and other hooded-top twaddle, and if there’s no concert scheduled then they aren’t open.QA-1, ul. Kościuszki 79, tel. (+48) 61 851 04 08, www.bluenote.poznan.pl. Open 1 hour before event; check website. EG

Poznań bars are flexible - no matter what the official closing times are, most bars and pubs will stay open un-til the last customer has stumbled out. Most night spots are concentrated around the Old Town Square area, but also check out ul. Nowowiejskiego (B-1) and ul. Taczaka (B-3) both of whom draw students in their droves. Where the venue is not on our map we have included the dis-trict it is located in brackets. Visit our website - poznan.inyourpocket.com - for reviews of almost every place in town, and the opportunity to leave your comments about all of them.Here are a few suggestions depending on what you are looking for:

LADSMinisterstwo Browaru emphasises plenty of obscure beers (including their own) for connoisseurs, while Br-ovaria has excellent lagers brewed right on-site. Also consider heading to Kriek to sample more than 160 types of beer poured into their appropriate glasses. For sports it’s Falstart, or go more classy at Someplace Else in the Sheraton,

SPLURGEThe best cocktails in Poznań are found in Blow Up 50 50, which is conveniently situated close to one of the most exclusive danceterias in town - SQ. Look the part if you want to be accepted into either. If you don’t want snooty, you can easily run up your tab sipping choice monastic ales at Kriek Belgium Pub & Cafe, while Piano Bar mixes luxury drinks and atmosphere for a swanky well-rounded experience.

COUPLESAnother vote for Blow Up 50 50, the best destination for seduction cocktails. If it’s entertainment you’re after check out Blue Note Jazz Club, which attracts great internation-al performers to serenade your better half. Basilium does an excellent job of combining cocktails with cosy spaces as well.

LOCALBrave the dark basement to experience Kawiarnia Nocna Kisielice, a Poz mainstay that locals love for the music and unique ‘K-hole’ atmosphere (see our feature on p.7). Glimpse the past by drinking in the commie themed con-fi nes of Proletaryat. And be sure to end your night in typi-cal Polish style at Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa, a cheap 24-hour eatery on the Rynek that will help you off set your hangover with piles of sausage and pickled herring.

SQUAREWithout doubt the most popular place to drink on the square is Brovaria, which regularly sees people queuing for tables to become available from where they can enjoy the in-house brewed beers. Of course it’s impossible not to mention Pacha here - the legendary Ibiza club which has brought its international cred and celebrity crowds to Poz. Good luck getting in.



PhoPPPP to by Gregorz Babicz. Courtesy of City y ofof ofof PozPoPoPo nań.

SYMBOL KEY

G No smoking N Credit cards not accepted

6 Animal friendly U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music X Smoking room available

W Wi-fi connection

POLISH VODKA

The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll fi nd in any alcohol shop. But you won’t fi nd many tip-plers throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is the fl avoured vodkas, the most popular of which we describe below.

WIŚNIÓWKAUndoubtedly the most common fl avoured vodka, wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-fl avoured. You’ll see stu-dents and pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure.

ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKADue to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infi rm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka fl avoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is in-credibly palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice.

KRUPNIKA sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popu-lar personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mull-ing spices added.

ŻUBRÓWKAOne of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specifi c to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fra-grance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’


NightlifeNightlife BROVARIABrovaria feels an integral part of Poznań life, and it’s cer-tainly become established as the main expat haunt since the demise of Dom Vikingow. Yet while it feels an ingrained piece of Poznań one look at the design reveals a modern, industrial space, one where steel and glass combine to cre-ate a sharp looking area that looks as edgy now as when it fi rst opened. However, coming here to admire the in-teriors would be missing the point; this place is all about beer, namely the excellent house lagers that are brewed out back in the copper vats. Here’s one of the best micro-breweries in Poland, quite possibly the best: enjoy it.QC-2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open 10:00 - 01:00. GW

BROWAR PUBSet inside the old malt house (Słowdownia) of the former Brewery Huggerów which has now become the vast Stary Browar mall, Browar Pub attracts a monied and grown-up crowd you’re unlikely to see fi lling clubs around Poznań’s main square. The arched brick ceilings add architectural interest, though all eyes are typically focused on the dance fl oor. Theme nights are popular here, with Tuesdays off er-ing hip-hop and Thursdays slinging funk. Weekends are devoted to hits from 70s through to the present day, which might explain the classier crowd. Our only complaint is that Browar’s location deep inside the mall can make it tough to spot from outside, but follow the dolled up crowd up the outside stairs on Półwiejska as it’s worth the eff ort.QC-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.slodownia.com. Open 22:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. EG

CHMIELNIKUnlike the vast majority of its neighbours on Ż ydowska, Chmielnik is a bar fi rst and foremost - and a pretty decent one at that. Its smart wood and stone interior, onsite brew-ing tanks and spot on selection of diff erent bevies pull in a trendy 20-something crowd and the cool little garden outside means those summer evening get-togethers often go on a little later than usually planned...QD-1, ul. Żydowska 27, tel. (+48) 790 33 39 46. Open 15:00 - 02:00. 6GW

FALSTARTFormerly known as BSA Sports Pub, this bar is something of a Poznań institution amongst sports fans and hardcore boozers alike. Its recent makeover has seen a name change and a lick of paint but little else appears to have been al-tered. It’s a no-frills aff air with framed shirts, old tennis rackets and a shedload of TVs blasting out every sport from boxing to NBA to footy from around the globe. Above the bar is a list of the 100-some diff erent shots on off er - includ-ing ‘King Kong’, ‘Highway to Hell’ and the stickily-named ‘Cumshot’ - to bring on the afterglow. A welcome change from the soulless glam and glitz sports bars that seem to be all the rage these days.QC-3, ul. Długa 11, tel. (+48) 61 671 32 85. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. NGW

KRIEK BELGIAN PUB & CAFEIf ever we were pushed to name a favourite bar then this would be up there. Setting it apart is a collection of 170 Belgian beers, admirably promoted by Sławek, a gregarious giant whose principal aim is to spread the good gospel of lager. Permanently cast in shadow, Kriek is a sure-fi re win-ner, and a hefty bill is as expected as the heavy head that follows. Highly recommended.QD-2, ul. Wodna 23, tel. (+48) 508 26 75 70. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. UGW

MINISTERSTWO BROWARUOne of our favourite haunts for Polish craft beers, fi nd AleBro-war brews like Black Hope and Rowing Jack on tap alongside the establishment’s own Ministerstwo beers and top-rated European names like Delirium Tremens. If we had it our way all pubs would be run by folks as knowledgeable as these fel-lows, who’ve boiled it down to wood benches and great beer. Find the equally awesome Minister Cafe upstairs (open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00-24:00, Sat 12:00-24:00, Sun 12:00-22:00).QB-2, ul. Ratajczaka 34, tel. (+48) 601 53 37 47, www.ministerstwobrowaru.pl. Open 16:00 - 02:00. GW

NEW MROWISKOSzewska Street has always drawn in a decently mixed crowd of students and foreigners due to its lively pubs and location. And now there’s a new reason to take a look - Mrowisko. Known in local circles as ‘Mr. Whisky’ (due to its slightly confusing sign), this place has ‘hipster’ written all over it, from its graffi ti-laden design to its shopping trolley full of second-hand books. And that’s before you even sam-ple some of the off -beat beers on off er. Cheap and cheerful, this place is already making its mark on the Poznań scene.QD-1, ul. Szewska 20A, tel. (+48) 690 22 59 42. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. W

PIANO BARThe perfect spot to take clients. A clean cream interior punctuated by some well chosen local art. The mobile drinks cabinet can be dispatched to your party if an emer-gency surfaces, such as an inability to walk. Waiters are decked out suitably and can handle any cocktail you should require.QC-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. UEGW

PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWABuilt on the success of their ul. Wrocławska joint (and other locations across the entire country), here’s a second venue right on the Rynek for those who can’t quite muster up the energy to stumble to the old place when everywhere else rings time at the bar. The interior and idea is exactly the same: dirt cheap booze and dirt cheap grub to soak up the aforementioned booze. This place is packed at all hours al-though it’s best sampled during the later stages of the eve-ning when you’re guaranteed a right assortment of charac-ters who are happy to spill out their life story for the price of a 4zł beer. A welcome alternative to some of the Rynek’s

WINE BARS

NEW CASA DE VINOSThirty seconds from bustling Półwiejska Street, Casa de Vinos wine bar serves as an ideal stop-off for those who know they deserve a relaxing glass of wine (or two) after a hard day of shopping and sightseeing. The friendly and knowledgeable staff are happy enough to talk you through the 300 plus bottles on display before off ering you a comfy seat in which to enjoy your fi nal choice. It’s small, it’s intimate and it makes for a perfect little place to sample some of the fi nest wines from around the globe. Keep your credit card at hand - you’ll be needing it when it comes to ordering a bottle or three to take back home.QC-3, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. (+48) 61 815 28 26, www.casadevinos.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. GW

LA RAMBLA TAPAS BAR I VINOYou’ll love La Rambla, a scarlet venue whose principle pull is a top selection of wines and a range of tapas snacks to go with them. An irresistible place to take your date in spring and summer when you can sit streetside next to heavy wood shutters and fl ower pots.QD-2, ul. Wodna 5/6, tel. (+48) 618 52 37 21, www.larambla.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. GW

MIELŻYNSKI WINE BARSet in a scrubbed up industrial brick building Mielżynski is the wine bar that Poznań has been crying out for. It’s not central, but it is worth the ride, as a lengthy lurk among the crates soon proves. Educated service, hard-to-fi nd labels, a dash of neo factory chic and a winning menu make this a true destination of distinction.Qul. Wojskowa 4 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 866 00 57, www.mielzynski.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Mon 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 18:00. UG

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ul. Bukowska 3/9, 60-809 Poznańtel. 61 655 200

[email protected]

facebook.com/someplace.else.poznan


NightlifeNightlifemore expensive and snobby bars.QC-1, Stary Rynek 85, tel. (+48) 791 85 95 55. Open 09:00 - 05:00, Fri 09:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 10:00 - 05:00. UNGW

PROLETARYATSo what if Stalin killed umpteen times more people than Hitler? Communism can be a hoot, at least it is if you’re drunk, so head to this commie bar and raise a glass to Uncle Joe. Quality local lager ensures nights aren’t dull, and you’ll fi nd this piece of socialist paradise decidedly stuff ed with Cold War keepsakes and Iron Curtain mementos - pride of place goes to Lenin, with his giant plaster head peering through the street-side window.QD-2, ul. Wrocławska 9, tel. (+48) 61 852 48 58, www.proletaryat.pl. Open 13:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 15:00 - 02:00. G

SOMEPLACE ELSESPE is a natural born winner - few places are better geared to meet foreign demands, and while the prices are un-doubtedly steep (do you expect anything else from the Sheraton?), it’s a place where foreigners and locals mix with seamless ease. American in spirit, you’ll fi nd Route 66 extras mingled with rock pics, as well as more whimsical touches such as a car bonnet bursting from the wall. Taking centre stage is a circular bar, the perfect base to chat to staff while they fi x earthquake cocktails and velvet smooth Guinness.QE-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. UGW

THE DUBLINERThe most venerable of the city’s three Irish pubs, the Dubliner is on an upswing of late with regular live music acts booked and a Mon-Fri 13:00 - 18:00 (plus all day Sunday) special that knocks 50% off the food prices (we enjoyed the Irish stew). Tucked on the ground fl oor of the city’s landmark Zamek Castle, this tim-ber-cut pub feels like a secret clubhouse complemented with stained glass windows. The prices for Guinness or one of the many Irish whiskeys keep the students away - not a bad thing in our book. Squeeze onto one of the wooden benches and face the stage for a guaranteed good time, or come in on Weds at 20:30 to test your mettle in their English language pub quiz.QA-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (entrance from Al. Niepodległości), tel. (+48) 61 851 01 69, www.dubliner.com.pl. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 13:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00. EXW

WHISKEY IN THE JARWhat with Stary Rynek being most people’s fi rst port of call, it’s always good to have a bit of variety. Whiskey in the Jar ticks the box for ‘good-old-fashioned rock ‘n’ roll bar,’ but this isn’t your typical grubby rock pub - rather a classy joint serving steaks and burgers and killer cocktails guaranteed to leave your head spinning (Don’t believe us? See how many of their Jack Daniel’s Whisky Jars you can work your way through in one sitting). The stage hosts live bands Wed - Fri from 21:00, with DJs keeping the trendy punters entertained on Satur-day nights with the likes of Metallica, Jimi Hendrix and The Clash.QC-2, Stary Rynek 56, tel. (+48) 690 28 88 98, www.whiskeyinthejar.pl. Open 14:00 - 24:00. 6UEGW

CLUBSNEW ATMOSFERAThough most ‘rock bars’ in this town are head-banging student dives, Atmosphera is a smartly designed space for mixed drinks and live music, with plenty of instruments in-corporated into the design - the bar itself is even made from fl ight cases for extra eff ect. What helps Atmosfera stand out from other Rynek pubs is the fact it’s easy to mingle, so you can get chatting to that tasty leather-clad blonde on the other side of the room without too much hassle, and the fun only picks up the longer the night goes on: note that they host after parties here on Saturday starting at 05:00 in the morning, and don’t make ‘last call’ until 11:00 Sunday (just in time for ‘drunch,’ that is, drunken brunch).QC-2, Stary Rynek 67, www.atmosfera-klub.pl. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Sat 18:00 - 11:00. Closed Sun. GW

BLUEBERRY BAROne of the city’s trendier places and you can join the good-looking crowd by heading up the escalator inside the of-fi ce building mid-way down ul. Św. Marcin. There you will fi nd inside a large, open bar/ club covering 1,200m2 with white couches and disco balls defi ning a minimalist space that easily lures revellers away from the busy main square. The draw? A rotating list of DJs from around Europe that ensure no two nights are the same and an elevated chill out space to kick back and enjoy a cocktail.QB-2, ul. Św. Marcin 40, tel. (+48) 61 852 40 00, www.blueberrybar.pl. Open Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat only: 20:00 - 05:00. UEXW

CUBA LIBRESet down a shadowy courtyard basement the newly ex-panded Cuba Libre is a bouncy Latin venue replete with whitewashed walls, pics of Che and wall space dedicated to an assortment of Cuban goodies. This place goes for de-tail, so much so that drinkers can even take a seat in one of those clapped-out vintage bangers you see pootling round the streets of Havana. The Fiesta Latino nights on Friday and Disco Latino nights on Saturday prove seriously popular, though if you’ve got two left feet then consider brushing up on your dance jiggles at one of their Monday salsa classes.QC-2, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 61 855 23 44, www.cuba-libre.pl. Open 21:00 - 05:00, Mon, Tue 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. EXW

ul. Wroclawska 21tel. 061 855 23 44

www.cuba-libre.pl

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT

DEEP GO GOHead through the door, make your way down the steps and prepare to feast your eyes on some of the city’s top talent. Unlike some clubs of its ilk, Deep Go Go caters for both stag and hen parties, with a number of set-price options on off er depending on both budget and number of guests. Recently renovated, so you can expect the modern interiors to look as good as the ladies, and as we’ve learned fi rst-hand, anyone searching for an evening of spicy adult entertainment will not leave the club disappointed; check the website for more details and enjoy.QC-2, ul. Wrocławska 5 (entrance from ul. Kozia), tel. (+48) 531 39 36 36, www.deep-gogo.pl. Open 20:00 - 05:00. XW

MELODY GENTLEMEN’S CLUBA ‘Gentleman’s Club’ only a stone’s throw from the Old Market Square which, although conveniently positioned and attractively decorated, never seems to be that busy. Expect the usual overpriced drinks while the underdressed ladies perform gymnastics to pop music.QC-1, Stary Rynek 92, tel. (+48) 666 38 63 41, www.melody.com.pl. Open 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. GW

POZNAŃWrocławska 5 streetentrance from the street Kozia

Contact:Phone: +48 785 559 428+48 531 393 636E-mail: [email protected]

/NightClubDEEP

Everything in Pacha will look out-of-this-world once your retinas have been fried by laserbeams.


Nightlife CZEKOLADACredit crunch you say? Not in Poznań, people. While the rest of the world staggers around like a shot pig the denizens of Poznań are living the high life in places like Czekolada. To call this place sexy would be a dis-service, this is the final word in design drinking and the sort of cocktail spot/lounge club the city deserves. Huge chandeliers, shiny surfaces and black finishes lend a real svelte look to this spot, and you’d be a fool to turn up looking like anything less than a celebrity.QC-2, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. (+48) 665 55 08 91, www.klubczekolada.pl. Open 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. XW

PACHAPacha? As in, the world’s most famous clubbing fran-chise Pacha? In Poznań? We’re as shocked as you, but yep, those cherries are real, and this is the only Pa-cha in Central Europe - validating Poznań’s growing international rep as a prime party city. Decked out in plush design and pumping out house music for the masses, Pacha is a divorcee’s paradise and one which is attracting big crowds looking to dance away those working-week blues. Will its reputation be enough to pull in the punters from Warsaw, Wrocław and Ber-lin? Time will tell...QC-2, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. (+48) 519 30 02 60, www.pachapoznan.com. Open 22:00 - 05:00, Thu 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. XW

SQDance with the fi ttest and the hippest in SQ, by far the most envied dance space in town. Silly haircuts and ex-pensive wardrobes abound here, and they’re here for the music not the design - DJs arrive from all across Poland to play here, sometimes even further. The interior isn’t all that, but the nights are legend, and you’ll fi nd no better place to puff the chest out and behave like a big time Bertie.QC-3, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 663 78 65 47, www.sqklub.pl. Open 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. EX

VAN DIESELBefore Pacha came along, Van Diesel was the ‘in’ place on Poznan’s market square, and the long queues out front would suggest it still holds plenty of clout. Nego-tiate face police to discover a more mature crowd than in most Poznań nightspots, grooving to a mix of classics from the 70s through to the present day. Only open on weekends, arrive early to take advantage of discounts on booze.QC-1, Stary Rynek 88, tel. (+48) 515 06 54 59, www.vandiesel.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 21:00 - 05:00. UXW

DISCO POLO!

No, it’s not an equestrian sport involving bell-bottomed jockeys (good guess, though), Disco Polo is a rather pe-culiar and uniquely Polish sub-genre of dance music. In fact you may have already been exposed to it with-out even realising it. It could have been blaring from a suped-up Fiat Duze rolling by, pulsing from a radio in a Żabka convenience store or been the soundtrack to that local wedding you attended a few months back.

This cult genre fi rst emerged in the early 90’s as folk mu-sicians and wedding bands fi nally were able to upgrade their antiquated audio gear and buy some shiny new keyboards with built in drum machines (and 70’s disco presets). By mixing a little Italo Disco (read: Eurotrash Techno) into their Casiotone folk-anthems, a music rev-olution was born. Disco Polo quickly conquered every wedding hall, village disco and nightclub throughout the land. By 1995 there were Disco Polo programmes on every major radio and television station and even former Polish President Aleksander Kwasniewski used a Disco Polo song during his presidential campaign that year. Times were good and Disco Polo labels like Blue Star and ‘bands’ such as Bayer Full, Boys and Shazza were pumping out the hits and rolling in the zlotties. But alas, the good times couldn’t last forever.

Disco Polo was scoff ed at from the very beginning by the likes of intellectuals, music critics and professional musi-cians who viewed it as hokey and primitive (which it was/is). The tide began to turn for the genre as a whole when a few scandals involving disco polo artists and local ma-fi a bosses started to make headlines in ‘96 and ‘97. These scandals coincided with a huge drop in cassette and CD sales. By the late 90’s the wedding party was offi cially over and the long national hangover had begun. Public opin-ion and the mainstream media quickly turned and openly derided and lampooned the jovial genre.

Nowadays, the Disco Polo genre is about as respected as Country & Western or Smooth Jazz. Nonetheless, Disco Polo artists continue to break album sales records and tour regularly despite being the butt of almost every musical joke. The truth is, while it’s been offi cially cool to make fun of Disco Polo for the better part of a decade, it’s every red-blooded Pole’s guilty pleasure.

Fanatic band © Wikipedia/User: FxJ/CC BY-SA 3.0




of the city of Poznań, but with the very birth of the Polish nation - a story which is now told in all its glory at the outstanding Porta Posnania (p.60). This modern complex in Sródka is now the mandatory starting point for exploring Ostrów Tumski - Poznań’s glorious ‘Cathedral Island.’ Once you’ve fi nished strolling the Old Town, make sure you have the better part of a day to enjoy the medieval ambience and relative tranquility of Ostrów Tumski.

Poznań also boasts some glorious parks and green spaces. Lake Malta (p.74), just east of the centre is one of the most unique urban leisure areas in the country, and off ers loads of family activities for all seasons, including skiing, roller-coasters, and the New Zoo. Meanwhile, just north of the Old Town, Citadel Park’s 89 hectares of public greenery are stuff ed with interesting monuments, and even two museums focussed on the city’s military history (p.62).

If you’re in the area for longer, you might also consider the comfortable day trip out to Gniezno (p.68) - Poland’s fi rst capital. No matter how long your stay, you’ll fi nd plenty in Poznań to keep your interest. Use our Sightseeing section to explore it all and enjoy one of Poland’s most ancient and exciting cities.

With a deep and typically complex history, Poznań is rife with historical monuments and has much to off er those who enjoy outstanding architecture and diverse cultural attractions. While part of the beauty of Poznań lies in aimlessly roaming the streets and alleys, making chance fi ndings from one turn to the next, there are a number of must-see sights whose discovery should not be left to chance.

Your natural start point should be the Old Town, and its main square, the glorious Stary Rynek (p.52). Taking centre stage is the Old Town Hall (p.55), once renowned as the most beautiful building north of the Alps. Today it is home to the Historical Museum of Poznań (p.56) as well as a pair of mechanical goats who emerge at noon to the delight of the sightseers gathered below. Of course there’s more to the Rynek than just the Town Hall, and visitors with plenty of time will enjoy investigating the other museums that line the perimeter of the square, including the charming Musical Instruments Museum (p.56), the brutal Wielkopolska Military Museum (p.58), and the Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (p.68) - chronicling the 1918 Uprising which culminated in Poznań switching from German to Polish hands.

Poznań also boasts two castles. First up is the Royal Castle (p.56), located just west of the Rynek, which was the seat of the fi rst Polish kings; neglected for decades, the castle is currently being returned to its pride of place and will be open to the public in summer of 2015. Further west is the Imperial Castle (p.57), built as the residence of Prussian ruler Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1910. Today the chambers and cellars of this fearsome complex house numerous restaurants and bars, as well as the 1956 Uprising Museum.

To avoid churches in Poznań would take a serious case of river blindness. The gem of the Old Town is the Lesser Basilica of St Stanislaus (p.52), which boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists, as well as a fl amboyant pink facade. The most important place of worship in Poznań, however, is the Poznań Cathedral on Ostrów Tumski (p.61) with its twin towers and surrounding chapels. This site is connected not only with the founding

Essential Poznań

Poznań SightseeingFROM THE OLD TOWN TO OUT OF TOWN,

AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN

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Poznań Cathedral Photo by Radosław Maciejewski; courtesy of City of Poznań

Poznań Goats Photo by Grzegorz Babicz, courtesy of City of Poznań

The Imperial Castle Photo by Radosław Maciejewski; courtesy of City of Poznań


SightseeingSightseeing

MONUMENTS HIPOLIT CEGIELSKIThe area where Podgórna and Św. Marcin converge has in the past been known for one thing - its super all night chicken stand. Now, at least as of September 19, 2009, it’s known for a 2.5 metre tall bronze cast of Hipolit Cegielski. Unveiled by his granddaughter, the statue commemorates one of the great industrialists of 19th century Poznań, and the man who founded the Cegielski factory. Not just a fat cat though, Cegielski was known for his philanthropy and patriotism.QC-3, Pl. Wiosny Ludów.

HYGIEIAThe Greek goddess Hygieia can be seen sitting serenely upon this water well on Plac Wolności. The story begins in 1841 when Edward Raczyński constructed the city water-works, choosing to place a well, decorated with intricate reliefs, between Marcinkowskiego and Lutego streets. In 1908 the well was moved down to ul. Podgórna, but not before Albert Wolf further embellished it with the goddess of good health, cleanliness and hygiene. The well found its current place in 1971.QC-2, Pl. Wolności.

MONUMENT OF THE 15TH POZNAŃ LANCERS REGIMENT

This feisty fellow mounted on horseback commemorates the 15th Poznań Lancers Regiment, which fought against the Bolsheviks in 1920 and with the Poznań Army in 1939. The original was created by Mieczysław Lubelski and Adam Ballenstaedt and unveiled in 1927, but it was destroyed by the Nazis during World War II. The version that exists today was installed in 1982 and created by Józef Murlewski and Benedykt Kasznia and is the site of military ceremonies and the annual Poznań Lancers Day event.QC-2, ul. Ludgardy.

CHURCHES CATHEDRALPoland’s fi rst bishopric was established in Poznań in 968AD, and from 1138-1295 Poznań briefl y operated as the home of Poland’s Royal Court. Though nothing remains of the 9th century fortress that once surrounded it, the Cathe-dral - Poland’s fi rst - is still open to visitors and an essential part of an trip to Poz. See Ostrów Tumski for more.QI-3, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00. No visiting during mass please. Crypt entrance 3.50/2.50zł, rest of the Ca-thedral free.

LESSER BASILICA OF ST. STANISLAUSOne of Poznań’s most impressive historic monuments, the The Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus, which it be-came in October 2010, was created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th century. It boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists, with some fine period ornamentation found in the chapels of the Holy Cross (which features a 16th-century crucifix), and the Virgin Mary (which has a precious copy of the paint-ing of The Mother of God of Incessant Help). The Basilica hosts organ concerts played on an instrument dating from 1876 on Saturdays at 12:15.QC/D-2, ul. Gołębia 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 69 50, www.fara.archpoznan.org.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:30. No visiting during mass please.

ST. ADALBERT’S CHURCHThis small, uniquely-shaped Gothic building was con-structed in the early 15th century and is notable for its adjacent wooden belfry and Art Nouveau murals. The high altar features a Late Gothic relief of the assumption of the Holy Virgin Mary and the other altars are manner-istic, dating from around 1630. Since 1923 it has held the Crypt of Eminent Citizens of Wielkopolska, the resting place of Jozef Wybicki, who wrote the words of the Pol-ish national anthem, and the urn containing General Jan Henryk Dąbrowski’s heart. The church also contains the sarcophagus of Karol Marcinkowski, the famous doctor and social activist. Every Christmas, visitors come to see the nativity scene with its mechanical fi gures of Polish kings, scholars, artists and other national heroes.QG-2, ul. Wzgórze Św. Wojciecha 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 69 85, www.swietywojciech.archpoznan.pl. Open before mass and by prior arrangement.

ST. JOSEPH’S SANCTUARYOpposite St. Adalbert’s Church you’ll fi nd St. Joseph’s, a Carmelite sanctuary whose late 17th century design typi-fi es the Wielkopolska Baroque style. It houses the grave of Mikołaj Skrzetuski, who defended the town of Zbaraż against the Tartars and Cossacks in 1649 and inspired the main character in Henryk Sienkiewicz’s novel, With Fire and Sword.QG-2, ul. Działowa 25 (St. Wojciech Hill), tel. (+48) 61 852 92 93, www.karmelici.info. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 19:00.

TOURIST INFORMATION

CITY INFORMATION CENTRETourist offi ce with detailed tourist and business infor-mation.QB-2, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 851 96 45, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

CITY INFORMATION CENTRELarge information desk in the new train station loaded with maps, guides and all the assistance a new arrival could need.QE-4, ul. Dworcowa 2 (Main Train Sta-tion), tel. (+48) 61 633 10 16, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTREMaps and guides in Polish, English and German. Assis-tance in those languages plus French, Spanish, Italian and Portuguese.QC-2, Stary Rynek 59/60, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 56, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

GUIDED TOURS

If an authoritative print guide, website and iPhone app simply aren’t enough, and you need someone to liter-ally take you by the hand (hey, we kid), there are plenty of tour companies to choose from in Poznań and we list the best of them here.

CITY GUIDE POZNAŃExcellent local guides off ering tours in English, Ger-man, Polish, Italian, Russian, French and Spanish to attractions throughout Poznań and beyond (the Piast Route). During Poland’s EU presidency, City Guides was chosen to show delegates of the European Commis-sion around the city - solid credentials indeed. Walking tours run 2-5 hours, with prices depending on length of tour and language required.Qtel. (+48) 608 28 42 08, www.cityguide-poznan.com.pl.

KULTOUR.PLCity guides off ering tours of Poznań and the surrounding area. Languages spoken include German, English, Russian, Ukrainian, Spanish. Please call in advance to book a tour.Qtel. (+48) 601 87 16 61, www.kultour.pl.

TOUR GUIDE SERVICESTour guide services provided by the city’s Tourist Infor-mation Centre, available in English, German, French, Spanish, Italian, Russian, Ukrainian and Czech. Call at least 2 days in advance to book a guide or organise a tour.Qtel. (+48) 61 852 61 56, www.cim.poznan.pl. 160zł/hour, 210zł/2 hours, 285zł/3 hours, 370zł/5 hours.

THE OLD TOWN SQUARE

The Old Town Square (Stary Rynek) was the centre of old Poznań, and to this day is rich in historic architec-ture, museums and restaurants. Around 60 per cent of the Old Town was fl attened during WWII, though most of the houses were meticulously rebuilt in the 1950s following Baroque and Renaissance styles. Aside from the two concrete carbuncles planted needlessly in the middle, the town square remains one of the most pic-turesque in Central Europe. Behind the Town Hall lies the City Scales building that once housed the hardware for weighing merchandise on its way to the market.

As you explore the market square, keep your eyes peeled for several interesting buildings rimming the Rynek:

Stary Rynek 43 - Poznań’s oldest pharmacy, Under the White Eagle has been operating here since 1564.

Stary Rynek 48 - Originally built in the 12th century the house boasts the oldest gothic cellars in the city. During the 16th century it was the residence of town mayor Kacper Goski. Author of Plague in the Air, Goski also dabbled in astrology. His unlikely, but ultimately accurate, prediction of the Turkish defeat at the Battle of Lepanto immortalised him across Europe.

Stary Rynek 50 - Worth noting for its gothic façade and the small portico over the doorway. During a bawdy drinking bout King August II of Saxony tumbled out of the window; the roof broke his fall and saved his life. Nearby a tablet marks the level that fl oodwaters reached in 1736.

Stary Rynek 52 - Once owned by Mikołaj Ridt, the trader was apparently turned into a werewolf after a foul-mouthed outburst directed at a neighbouring convent. Following war damage the house was rebuilt in 1945 in Renaissance style.QC/D-1/2.

© Radosław Maciejewski; courtesy of City of Poznań


SightseeingSightseeing MONUMENT OF THE POLISH UNDERGROUND STATE & HOME ARMYThe work of Gdańsk artist Mariusz Kulpa, this large installa-tion dedicated to the wartime Polish Underground State and Home Army was unveiled in September 2007 and consists of numerous tablets commemorating both individuals and or-ganisations, as well as six stone eagles seemingly suspended in mid-air, which represent Poland’s (seemingly paradoxical) fl ight and fi ght for independence. It’s truly a stunning work, and even more so in the evening when illuminated by the dim fl icker of candles placed in tribute.QA-1, Between ul. Wieniawskiego and Al. Niepodległości (Wieniawski Park).

MONUMENT TO THE VICTIMS OF KATYŃ & SIBERIAA walk around the castle grounds is a must, especially the rose garden out back. It’s here one fi nds the Katyń monu-ment, a 6.5 metre bronze eff ort permanently festooned with fl owers and candles. Unveiled on September 17, 1999 - the 60th anniversary of the Soviet invasion - this hefty memorial commemorates the 22,000 Polish offi cers mas-sacred by Beria’s NKVD in 1940.QA-1, Between ul. Fredry and Al. Niepodległości (The Casteled Garden).

STARY MARYCHThe bronze statue of a man with a bicycle that you may fi nd yourself colliding with is that of Stary Marych (Old Marych), one of Poznań’s most beloved citizens. A fi ctional character who came to symbolise the typical Poznanian, the grumpy but decent Stary Marych was the creation of Juliusz Kubel, and featured heavily on Polish radio, all the time speaking in his particular and highly amusing Poznań dialect. Sculpted by Robert Sobociński, the photogenic codger has stood since 2001.QC-3, Corner of ul. Półwiejska and ul. Strzelecka.

MUSEUMS1956 UPRISING MUSEUMSee 1956 Uprising on p.65 for full review.QA-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82. N

ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUMSee Ostrów Tumski, p.60.QI-2, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admis-sion 8/5zł, family ticket 12zł.

ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUMCurious to see an Egyptian mummy named Hat? Then step right in. Poznań’s Archaelogy Museum contains a collection of 42,000 rare and mystifying objects that chart life in Ancient Egypt and prehistoric Poland. The fi rst part of the museum takes you through the earliest settlements in the region, with life-sized fi gures as well as miniature dioramas depicting life from the Stone Age to the Iron Age. It’s here you’ll fi nd every-thing from fl ints and urns to models of hairy men holding aloft dead rabbits. The other permanent exhibit, ‘Death and Life in Ancient Egypt,’ features 120 rare pieces - of note are the granite obelisk of Rameses II that stands in the courtyard outside, and the granite statue of the lion-headed god Sachmet. The sec-tion on death presents colourful coffi ns, guides to the afterlife titled ‘Book Of What Is On The Other Side’ and the mummifi ed remains of Hat, a boy named Padiseb and sacred animals, in-cluding two cats, a falcon and a crocodile.QD-2, ul. Wodna 27 (Pałac Górków), tel. (+48) 61 852 82 51, www.muzarp.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, family ticket 20zł. Sat free. Guided tours by prior arrangement 70zł. Free audio guides avaliable in English. YUN

HISTORICAL MUSEUM OF POZNAŃThe show-stealing Town Hall proves a fi tting venue for a museum of this stature. The gothic cellars - originally the municipal prison - hold exhibits dating back to the earliest times of settlement in the 10th century. On the ground fl oor, rooms built in the 16th century hold exhibits covering the city’s urban and economic development during that time. The Renaissance Hall, Royal Hall and Court Hall on the fi rst fl oor hold the most valuable documents and artefacts, and the opulent vaulted ceilings - depicting griffi ns, lions and eagles - are worth the photography surcharge alone. Exhib-its include a 13th century crosier from Limoges, a table clock with the Poznań coat of arms from 1575 and a globe from 1688 - resist the temptation to give it a spin lest you wish to incur the wrath of hawkish curators. Much of the second fl oor is dedicated to the 19th century when the city was un-der Prussian rule, and features everyday objects and portraits of prominent citizens. The fi nal part of the museum depicts the history of 20th century Poznań, and exhibits include the disturbing photograph of a swastika fl uttering from the Town Hall.QC-2, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/1-5zł, Sat free. YN

THE OLD TOWN HALL

First erected in the early 14th century, Poznań’s glo-rious Town Hall (Ratusz) re-ally fl owered in mid-1500s when Italian architect Giovanni Quadro of Luga-no added the Renaissance loggia, attic, and classical tower, earning the struc-ture acclaim as ‘the most beautiful building north of the Alps.’ Unfortunately a catalogue of historic disas-

ters - including a 1675 fi re, 1725 hurricane and WWII bomb damage - have resulted in the sad reality that today little of the original structure actually remains, though it has been faithfully rebuilt to retain its status as the city’s showpiece.

Today the Old Town Hall houses the Historical Mu-seum of Poznań, whose collection encompasses exhibits from the 10th century till the present day. The biggest draw is the Great Entrance Hall with its elabo-rately decorated vault, supported by two huge pillars. The tableaux are inspired by the bible, astrology and fi gures from mythology. Directly outside the Town Hall is the original whipping post, dating from 1535, with a recently repaired fi gure of Poz’s executioner standing on top.

Crowds gather outside the Town Hall each day to witness two mechanical billy goats emerge from a door above the clock at precisely 12:00 and proceed to butt heads twelve times. Simultaneously, a trum-peter plays the town’s traditional bugle call from a balcony. The bugle call (hejnał) dates back at least to the 15th century, and the goats have been ramming heads 1551. Replaced and restored over the years, the present pair have been bludgeoning each other since 1954. Of course there’s a half-baked legend to go along with them: When the clock was completed in 1511, the governor of the Poznań province was invit-ed for the unveiling. The hapless cook preparing the celebratory feast burnt the venison, so he went out and managed to steal a pair of goats to serve instead. Alas, the goats escaped and traipsed up to the top of City Hall, where the governor saw them butting heads and decreed they be added to the clock. The rest, as they say, is history - much like the cook, who was likely tied to the whipping post and given a bloody good thrashing.QC-2, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admis-sion 7/1-5zł, Sat free.

JvM

WWII POZNAŃ

After being annexed by Nazi Germany in 1939, Poznań was incorporated into the Third Reich and underwent aggressive Ger-manisation, with over 100,000 ci-vilians expelled from the city and replaced with Volksdeutch settlers from the Baltic States and other

regions. Of those exiled many died in mass execu-tions conducted in 1940 in the area surrounding Lake Rusałka (E-1). Under occupation, Poznań’s Imperial Castle (ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, A-2) was remodelled as a residence for Nazi Governor Arthur Greiser by infamous Reich architect Albert Speer, though Greiser spent most of the war residing at ul. Berwińskiego 5. Gestapo HQ was located in Dom Żołnierza (ul. Niezłomnych 1), which became an interrogation centre with thousands of Poles tortured in the basement. It was stormed by the Red Army in February 1945 and fi ercely defended by the SS, who ultimately opted for mass suicide over capture. Completely battered by this siege, the only original remnant of the building is its tower, spared the brunt of Soviet aggression so it could be used as a refer-ence point by artillery units.Prisoners processed through Dom Żołnierza usually ended up in the (still functioning) prison on ul. Młynska (B-1), or the notorious Fort VII (Al. Polska) in the far west of the city. Used as a penal camp, this network of 19th century fortifi cations today serves as the Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum (see Museums), and its gloomy subterranean chambers are fi lled with relics recovered from the site – photographs, cutlery, wallets and rosaries. Outside the ‘Death Wall’ commemorates the thousands shot by fi ring squad.It was in Poznań in 1943 that Himmler declared Nazi intentions to exterminate Jewish life, and today little survives of Poznań’s Jewish heritage, with the early 19th century graveyard on ul. Głogowska (E-4) destroyed by the Nazis, before being incorporated into the MTP trade fair by communist authorities after the war.The Soviet siege of Poznań resulted in 90% total destruction of the city’s Old Town, and a few images of the city in ruins can be viewed in the Historical Museum of Poznań inside the Town Hall (Stary Rynek 1, C-1). Another area defended to the last man was the fortress in Citadel Park just north of the Old Town, which today houses two military museums - the Poznań Army Museum (H-2) and the Museum of Armaments (G-1, see Citadel Park). In addition to several war monuments, the Citadel Park also hosts a British military cemetery, which is the resting place of Allied airmen shot down over Poland during WWII and also several of those captured during “The Great Escape” - the famous POW escape story popularised by the Hollywood movie with Steve McQueen.

© City of Poznań



THE ROYAL CASTLE

Every European city worth its salt has a castle, and Poznań actually has two. Indeed, the 20th century ‘Za-mek’ west of the Old Town is neither Poznań’s oldest, nor most important castle. Wander just one block west of the market square and you’ll fi nd yourself at the foot of Góra Przemysła, crowned by Poznań’s former Royal Castle, which is currently being rebuilt by the city to refl ect its former glory.

Once the pride of Poznań, the original construction was begun approximately 1249 by Przemysł I - Duke of the Piast dynasty who had chosen Poz as his capi-tal. Work on the royal residence was continued by his son, and by the time Kazimierz the Great (a prince at the time) moved in in the early 14th century, Poznań’s Royal Castle was the largest non-ecclesiastical building in Poland. Its fortunes took a serious turn for the worse in early 18th century when it was sacked several times in quick succession by the Swedes, the Russians, and then disgruntled nobles. Governor General Kazimierz Raczyński restored the medieval buildings and created a state archive here in 1783 - a function it would serve until WWII. During the Siege of 1945, the castle had the misfortune of being in the line of fi re with the Nazi stronghold on Citadel Hill and that was that.

In 1959 the decision was taken to rebuild Raczyński’s contribution to the hill, which today houses the Ap-plied Arts Museum (currently closed for renova-tion). Until recently, the Castle’s rich historical value as the seat of early Polish royalty, numerous royal births, weddings and treaty signings seems to have been un-dervalued, but that’s in the past now. In 2002 a com-mittee for rebuilding the Castle was founded and work began in December 2010 on the total restoration of Poznań’s Royal Castle. To date, most of the exterior work has been completed, including the castle tower, while the interiors should be open to the public in June of 2015.QC-1/2, Góra Przemysła.

THE IMPERIAL CASTLE

More a palace than a ‘castle,’ work began on Poznań’s fearsome ‘Zamek’ in 1905 to serve as the provincial resi-dence of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Designed in the neo-Roman-esque style by Franz Schwechten, the west wing held Wilhelm’s living quarters, the east wing his immaculate throne room, with the northern part of the complex consisting of service rooms and beautiful gardens based on the Alhambra’s Courtyard of the Lions. The Kaiser got the keys in 1910 but didn’t stay long before WWI and the following Wielkopolska Uprising resulted in a Pol-ish Poznań once again. Between the wars the Zamek became the seat of Poznań University, before the Third Reich swooped in and Albert Speer, Hitler’s pet architect, transformed the tower chapel into the Fuehrer’s offi ce, and the second fl oor into the residence of Arthur Greiser (Nazi governor of the district). The castle was badly dam-aged during the Soviet liberation and there was even a post-war campaign to have the structure bulldozed. In the end the drastic measures stopped with reducing the principal tower to a third of its original height.Used by the University in the two years following the war, and then as the seat of local government, the Za-mek has operated as a cultural centre since 1962, hosting hundreds of theatre performances, concerts, fi lm screen-ings and other events in its palatial halls each year. The basement houses the 1956 Uprising Museum (see p.65), and throughout the large complex visitors will fi nd several restaurants, cafes and bars, including the popular Dubliner Irish Pub. Guided tours of the castle in English are available for 120zł but must be booked in advance by calling +48 61 646 52 88.QA-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.ckzamek.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Admission depending on repertoire.

LITERARY MUSEUM OF HENRYK SIENKIEWICZWinner of the Nobel Prize in 1905, and once one of the world’s most popular authors, Sienkiewicz is best known internationally as the author of Quo Vadis, a birth-of-Chris-tianity epic that has been translated into 50 languages. This museum dedicated to his legacy is located in a house that once belonged the Italian architect Jean Baptiste Quadro (that’s his bust you can see outside), and the collection is the life work of Ignacy Moś, who started collecting Sienkie-wicz memorabilia after paying the ransom to free Sienkie-wicz’s only son from the Gestapo. The exhibition includes the author’s Lennon-style specs, post-mortem facial and hand casts, correspondences and a collection of his novels including an English version of Quo Vadis dating from 1899. The opulent rooms are crowded with chandeliers, portraits and period furniture, his writing desk, and pictures of our hero posing with his series of wives. Though recently fully renovated and featuring more of the requisite multimedia trappings of modern museums, this special interest exhibit remains a domain that should probably be reserved for lit-erary scholars and Sienkiewicz’s extended family. If that’s you, you’ll be delighted to discover that an audioguide is now available in English and German.QD-2, Stary Rynek 84, tel. (+48) 61 852 89 71, www.bracz.edu.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admis-sion 4/2zł, Sat free. Audioguide 25zł.

MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTSSee Citadel Park, p.62.QG-1, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Ad-mission 6/3zł. Fri free. N

MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS MUSEUM

The only Polish museum of professional and folk instruments, with over 2000 items from Poland and around the world. Combining music, history and ethnography, it’s more interest-ing than it sounds. Three fl oors of exhibits include lutes dating back to the 15th century, a collection of 160 pianos illustrating the development of the instrument over the centuries, and a room of relics from the life of Frederic Chopin. Rounding off the exhibit is a collection of mechanical instruments: music boxes, barrel organs, juke boxes, player pianos and gramo-phones.QD-2, Stary Rynek 45-47, tel. (+48) 61 852 08 57, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/1-5zł, Sat free. YN

NATIONAL MUSEUM

An excellent museum with a rich collection of modern Pol-ish art (including interesting Impressionist works) in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian, Dutch and Flemish paintings in the connected old building. The museum also holds the largest collection of Spanish art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland and plenty of Polish art from the 16th century onwards. In addition, a Monet painting stolen in 2000 was recently recovered and is back on display. Selected paint-ings have extensive English explanations about the artist and topic.QC-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. (+48) 61 856 80 00, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/1-8zł, Sat free. YN

PHARMACEUTICAL MUSEUMOne of the smallest museums in Poznań, and certainly the trickiest to fi nd - go through the courtyard, ring the doorbell then climb to the second fl oor. The series of rooms here are fi lled with rusty pots, scales, vials and cast iron mortars from the 17-19th centuries. While once you’d fi nd yourself wander-ing around in ignorance, the museum now off ers small guides in English, German and French. One room has been designed to mimic a 19th century pharmacy - complete with a box for morphine - while another includes over 1,200 rare medical books, a stuff ed alligator and an inmate’s uniform recovered from Mathausen.QC-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 11, tel. (+48) 61 851 66 15. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission free.

POZNAŃ ARMY MUSEUMSee Citadel Park, p.62.QH-1, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00; Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł. Fri free. N

POZNAN BAMBER MUSEUMLearn more than you ever wanted to about the Bamber people inside an interesting museum that includes a 19th century timber house once owned by a wealthy Bamber farmer. Inside displays number a 17th century bonnet, looms, paintings, clothing and timber furniture - every-thing you’d expect in an ethnographic museum.QD-2, ul. Mostowa 7/9, tel. (+48) 605 62 16 11, www.bambrzy.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission free.

Photo by MOs810, WIkimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0



INEA STADIUM

The Poznań city stadium was the fi rst of a series of western-style stadiums built in the 1970s in Po-land, and was completed in 1980. When Poznań was chosen to host the

EURO2012 football championships, the stadium was redeveloped rather than completely reconstructed, and capacity raised from 27,000 to 43,090, at an investment of €160 million. Today the home of popular local side Lech Poznań, INEA Stadium is one of the top stadiums in Europe, featuring covered seating throughout, plus all the service points you would expect at a modern sports complex. Host to large-scale events throughout the year, the stadium has also become a bit of a tourist attraction, with guided tours off ered at regular intervals throughout the day (check the website for specifi c times). Tours are available in Polish, English, German, Spanish and French, and last 45mins-1hr, during which you’ll get a chance to experience the changing rooms that Lech Poznań call home, the Presidential boxes, press room, conference room, the Hall of Fame and, of course, the pitch itself.Qul. Bułgarska 17 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 886 30 31, www.ineastadion.pl. Admission 15zł, students 10zł, kids between 6-13: 5zł, kids under 5 free.

WIELKOPOLSKA MARTYRS MUSEUMOne of 18 forts built by the Prussians in the 1870s to pro-tect Poznań’s perimeter, ‘Fort VII’ gained notoriety when it was used as a Gestapo penal camp between 1939 and 1944. 18,000 Polish prisoners were processed here, of which 4,500 are estimated to have been killed. The wind-swept grassy grounds make for a thought-provoking walk and visitors can view the ‘death wall’ where up to seven prisoners were executed daily during Nazi rule, as well as dark tunnels used as improvised gas chambers. Else-where a vaulted brick room holds a small but haunting display that includes a guillotine, an execution block, truncheons, whips and arrest warrants. The personal ef-fects of prisoners have also been preserved including hand-written letters, playing cards, rosaries and identity papers. Chillingly graffi ti etched into the walls by prison-ers can still be discerned, the writing framed with red and white ribbons. Reaching Fort VII is not an easy task how-ever. Found in the western suburbs your best bet is a taxi, with reputable drivers charging around 20-22zł for the journey.QAl. Polska (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 848 31 38, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 2/1zł. Tue free. N

WIELKOPOLSKA MILITARY MUSEUMSituated inside a brutal post WWII pavilion the Military Mu-seum documents the history of the Polish military from the 11th century onwards. Starting with scythes and halberds the collection includes the armour of winged hussars, sa-bers, muskets and cannon, as well as portraits of Polish mil-itary commanders and famous moments in their history. The unwieldy musket ‘kolowy’ is a particularly impressive eff ort, and surely completely useless in combat. The 20th century section features grenades, compasses and medical kits, and the upstairs is devoted to the Wielkopolska Upris-ing, with medals, uniforms and postcards from the era. The collection was decimated with WWII, with the only surviv-ing item being a fragment of Wojciech Kossak’s 1901 paint-ing, The Battle of the Pyramids.QD-2, Stary Rynek 9, tel. (+48) 61 852 67 39, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/1-5zł. Sat free. YN

WIELKOPOLSKA UPRISING MUSEUMSee Wielkopolska Uprising, p.64.QC-2, Stary Rynek 3.

PLACES OF INTEREST MODELS OF POZNAŃ

A huge model that shows Poznań in its form as presented in Brau-Hogenburg’s illustration sketched in 1618. Constructed over a period of six years the model takes up a space of 50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150. The decorative details are im-pressive, and you can expect lots of kids as well as anoraked model enthusiasts pulling up the school seats around it as they wait for the show to begin. As the lights dim a recorded commentary begins and visitors are taken through the area-by-area story of Poznań’s development. Foreigners are given headsets broadcasting heavily accented commentary in the language of their choice, though this is at times drowned out by hilarious background noise that includes medieval soldiers screaming in agony. And it doesn’t end there. Now they’ve added similar models depicting Poznań in the 10th century, as well as a detailed model of the main square.QC-2, ul. Franciszkańska 2 (basement of the Franciscan Church, entrance from Ludgardy Street), tel. (+48) 61 855 14 35, www.makieta.poznan.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Ad-mission 14zł. YN

OKRĄGLAK

Looking for remnants of the Peoples’ Republic? Cast your camera to the western end of ul. Grudnia (A-2), where the imposing Okrąglak (Rotunda) presides over a four-point in-tersection. This cylindrical marvel is one of Poznań’s defi ning icons and has been a listed building since 2003. Constructed between 1948 and 1955 this beast is a leading example of Polish modernism, built to a blueprint by Marek Leykam. Originally slated to be ten storeys, this eight fl oor masterpiece once housed Poznań’s top department store, and it was here that during the lean years of communism locals would queue to buy ‘luxury’ products unavailable elsewhere.After years of abject neglect, the Okrąglak has been now been restored and converted into 51,000 square metres of A-class offi ce space. If you’re in need of a quick bite, visit the surprisingly good Kuchnia Marche restaurant inside.QA-2, ul. Mielżyńskiego 14, www.immobelpoland.com.

LECH VISITOR CENTRE

The Poznań Brewery - one of the largest in PL, and producers of Lech, Tyskie, Żubr and Redds - lies on the outskirts of the city and is a must for beer afi cionados. There is no minimum number of people required for a tour, so you can happily book by yourself, but they do ask that you make an appointment the day before, or at very least on the morning of your planned visit. Despite this, our unannounced arrival presented no signifi cant problems, other than having to wait half an hour in the bar (our preferred habitat) while a guide was rustled up.The two hour tour, available in English and German, is both informative and thorough, and guided by employ-ees of the brewery chosen for their experience and in-terest in the brewing process. The brewery itself, dating from 1980, is fairly impressive and thoroughly modern. The fi rst hour of the tour consists of a waltz through the production process, fermentation and mashing, as well as the usual guff about water purity and the like. The most striking thing about the production plant is the lack of humans and the sheer amount of sparkling steel and technology. For your second hour you’ll be whisked off to the ‘multimedia centre’ for a fi lm on the history of the company, as well as a galaxy of other attractions telling the story of Lech. We recommend that you take notes because you will be quizzed on the fi lm when it fi nishes, we kid you not. Later, have your photo taken inside a huge can of Lech, which you can then instantly email to all of your friends, or get involved in the bottling pro-cess which is guaranteed to bring out the child engineer in everyone. The tour fi nishes with a well-earned beer, which you can choose from their portfolio of brands, and you of course exit through the gift shop.To get to the brewery take tram 16 from ‘Most Teat-ralny’ (F-3) to the M1 shopping centre and you can’t miss the brewery opposite, as it has three huge towers draped in bright green Lech fl ags. Alternatively a taxi ride from the centre will set you back about 25zł.Qul. Szwajcarska 11 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 667 74 60, www.zwiedzaniebrowaru.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Tours start every 2 hours from 10:00 on-wards with the last tour at 18:00. You should book a day in advance. Admission 12/6zł. Y

© Marek Hołysz; courtesy of City of Poznań

© Michał Wrombel; courtesy of City of Poznań

Photo by Kwolana, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0.JPG


Ostrów Tumski

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Ostrów Tumski

Just north-east of the centre of Poznań sits Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) - the island where Poznań was founded, and “where Poland began” in the words of Pope John Paul II. According to the prolifi c legend, three Slav brothers known as Lech, Czech and Rus met on this tiny island after not seeing each other for many years. To commemorate their reunion the brothers named the place ‘Poznać,’ after the Polish word for ‘to meet.’ From there the island thrived, with a castle erected in the 9th century and Ostrow Tumski becoming a major centre of the Piast state. More than a millennium ago one of Poland’s fi rst rulers, Mieszko I, ushered the country into Catholicism here and soon after the fi rst bishopric was established in 968. The fi rst iteration of the Cathedral of Poznań was built in the second half of the 10th century, and in the island’s thousand-year history it has been home to kings and bishops alike. Remains of 19th century Prussian fortifi cations are still visible on the Cybina riverside, easily viewable from the Jordan Bridge (I-3). In more recent times the Communists showed their disdain for the Catholic Church’s heavy presence in Poznań by building a road across the island that bisected the Archbishop’s garden (what jerks!).

A trip to Ostrów Tumski not only makes a peaceful respite from the tackiness and tourist noise of Stary Rynek, but also serves as an important crash course on early Polish history and Poznań’s role in the country’s birth as a nation. Taking that task on as its very mission, in fact, is the new Porta Posnania Centre, which straddles the river (with its own bridge) between Ostrów Tumski and Śródka, and should be considered the mandatory starting point for all visitors before carrying on to the magnifi cent Poznań Cathedral itself.

PORTA POSNANIA INTERACTIVE HERITAGE CENTRE OF CATHEDRAL ISLANDOpened in early 2014, this modern culture complex symbolically connects Poznań’s two oldest districts - Ostrów Tumski and Śródka - via a covered ‘skywalk’ bridge between the main exhibition building and the restored 19th Cathedral Lock Gate. The main building is actually on the Śródka side of the Cybina River, and presents the fascinating history of the area from medieval times to the modern day, emphasising its importance to Polish national identity along the way, via an excellent audioguide and interactive multimedia displays designed for the entire family. The touring route concludes by leading visitors across the ‘skywalk’ straight into Ostrów Tumski itself, making this the ideal starting point for exploring the district. The audioguides are an extra charge, but are intended to be used to explore not just the Centre, but the entire district. Available in English, German, French and Spanish, there are three specially designed audiotour routes - one for individuals, one for groups, and one for families - that make the experience worthwhile for everyone, especially kids. Topping it off is a cafe/bar and a lovely rooftop terrace that offers unique views of Poznań Cathedral and the surrounding area. Highly recommended.QI-3, ul. Gdańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 647 76 34, www.bramapoznania.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission for the permanent exhibition 15/9zł. Family ticket (up to 5 people) 30zł. Group tickets (10+ people) 8zł per person. Audio guide 5/3zł, family 10zł. U

POZNAŃ CATHEDRALThe most stunning site on Ostrów Tumski is certainly Peter & Paul Cathedral, more commonly called ‘Poznan Cathedral,’ which ‘Cathedral Island’ takes its name from. Originally erected way, way back in 968, this was the fi rst cathedral in Poland, and has had a storied history. As it was razed, rebuilt and remodelled numerous times over the centuries, each resulted in the addition of a new architectural style: a 1622 fi re led to a Baroque fi nish, while a 1722 fi re ushered in a change to neo-Classicism. During the 1945 battle to liberate Poznań, 65 percent of the Cathedral again burned down, exposing the building’s buried Gothic elements and leading to its restoration in the style visitors see today.

The interior is a trove of sacral and historical treasures, surrounded by twelve diff erent chapels, including the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, which has several outstanding examples of Renaissance art (the tombstones of the Gorka family and Bishop Benedykt Izbienski, to be specifi c) and the Baroque altar houses a miraculous crucifi x brought to the Cathedral from the former Wrocławska town gate. The Golden Chapel was designed as the mausoleum of the fi rst Polish monarchs and houses the sarcophagi of Kings Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry; the two kings are also depicted in a bronze monument together, above which is a painting by January Suchodolski showing Mieszko I, the instigator of Catholicism in Poland, destroying pagan idols.

The eye-catching high altar at the centre of the Cathedral is a 14th/15th polyptych depicting Our Lady surrounded by 14 female saints, while the outer wings feature eight paintings depicting the Passion of the Christ. The Cathedral’s lavish Baroque pulpit is equally stunning and dates to 1720. Also worth noting are the Cathedral’s fi ve Gothic and early Renaissance bronze tomb slabs, which originated at the famed Nuremburg workshop of Herman and Peter Vischer. The slabs were originally on the Cathedral fl oor to cover the entrances to tombs, but were later mounted on pillars and chapel walls. Stolen during the war, the slabs were returned to Poznań in 1993 and are back on display.

Visit the vestry to request entry to the crypt, where you’ll see evidence of the pre-Romanesque and Romanesque versions of the Cathedral, and a 10th century baptismal font most likely used to baptise the fi rst Polish sovereign and his subjects. Excavations here also unearthed two tombs, most likely of the fi rst Polish monarchs Mieszko I and King Bolesław Chrobry. The second crypt houses an exhibition of artefacts found during the excavation, and it also leads to the crypt of the Poznań archbishops. Be aware that the lights in the crypt are motion-activated, so if you stand and look too long, you’ll suddenly end up in the dark.QI-3, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00. No visiting during mass please. Crypt entrance 3.50/2.50zł, rest of the Cathedral free.

ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUMAdjacent to the Cathedral is the large Lubrański Academy building, once home to Bishop Jan Lubrański’s institute of higher learning and today the Museum of the Archdiocese. The fi rst fl oor is devoted to temporary exhibits, while the next two fl oors are fi lled with all manner of religious art and relics, including numerous statues and paintings of the Madonna, Jesus, and various saints, plus well-preserved robes and heavily-bejewelled rings from Poznan’s long line-up of bishops.QI-2, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 8/5zł, family ticket 12zł. N

GENIUS LOCI ARCHEOLOGICAL PARKGenius Loci gives a diff erent view on Poznań’s medieval genesis by unearthing, reconstructing and off ering insight into the lives of those early individuals who inhabited the island one thousand years ago. Explore multimedia displays and documentary fi lms, and brave the glass walkways while peering down at the city’s original walls and embankments. An audioguide comes in both Polish and English and helps explain how Poznań took shape centuries ago.QI-3, ul. Ks. I. Posadzego 3, tel. (+48) 61 852 21 67, www.muzarp.poznan.pl/rezerwat. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket 10zł. Sun free. N


Citadel ParkCitadel Park

Just north of Poznań’s Old Town sits Winiary Hill and 89 hectares of picture-perfect green space known as Citadel Park. Much like any coveted location in Poland, this scenic overlook has a long history that involves multiple name changes, military battles and even some old-fashioned mystery. For visitors, the park off ers not only beautiful promenades and leafy city escapes, but also a plethora of monuments, museums and historical tales.

The hill itself didn’t become notable until Prussia took over Poland in 1793 and Poznań suddenly found itself in a stra-tegic location on the Prussian-Russian border, less than 300km from Berlin. A fort seemed in order, and design re-sponsibilities were given over to the exasperatingly-named General Carl Wilhelm Georg von Grolman. Work began in 1828 after moving two villages - Winiary and Bonin - to make room, and continued over the next decade. The result was an impressive polygonal brick fortress with 1.3-1.8 me-tre-thick walls, observation towers, artillery decks and even a moat, making it the central element of the city’s defences.

Despite the eff orts that went into the construction, and seemingly opportune wars with Denmark, Austria and France, the fort saw little military action, instead serving as a military prison throughout the 19th century. By the time WWI arrived, the fort was too outdated for modern war-fare and played no role until it was captured by insurgents during the Wielkopolska Uprising in 1918, after which it was home to Polish army units throughout the inter-war years. When Nazi Germany occupied Poland in 1939 the fort returned to its role as a POW camp (British, Russian and Polish soldiers ended up here) until it was thrust into the history books as the fi nal Nazi stronghold during the Battle of Poznań in 1945, fi nally captured by the Soviets on Febru-ary 23, 1945.

After the war, the ravaged and obsolete fort was largely dis-mantled, contributing its bricks to help rebuild local hous-ing estates and decimated cities like Warsaw. Yet plenty of the fort still remains, and those intrepid enough to wander off the park’s paths will be rewarded with a close-up look at history (this is where a guide comes in handy, as ours pointed out locations of strategic Russian movements, how the fort was breached, and even the charred bricks where a group of the last German soldiers evidently met their end). Under communism, the fort and surrounding area were given a new strategic purpose when Winiary Hill was turned into the chummy ‘Monument Park of Polish-Russian Friendship and Brotherhood’ in 1962, and a Russian cem-etery and Red Army memorial soon found a home here. Re-dubbed ‘Citadel Hall’ in 1992 after the regime fi nally fell, today visitors will fi nd this former military stronghold is home to art installations, monuments, several museums, cemeteries and large outdoor events. There are few better ways to spend an afternoon in Poznań than exploring all there is to see and do in the city’s largest park.

BRITISH MILITARY CEMETERYCitadel Park hosts several cemeteries, but the one typically of most interest to tourists is British Military Cemetery (also known as the Commonwealth Cemetery). Why? It’s here that you’ll fi nd the graves of several of the men involved in what is now known as “The Great Escape” (it wasn’t just a movie folks!). In addition to the 174 servicemen from the First World War (all of whom died in various parts of Poland as prisoners of war) there are also 283 World War II servicemen buried in the cemetery. Many of those graves are airmen who died in bombing operations over what is now the Polish city of Szczecin, but there are also several graves of soldiers involved in the mass escape from Stalag Luft 3 in Żagan, a feat depicted in the popular Hollywood fi lm, The Great Escape. The man considered to be the mas-termind of the escape is Squadron Leader Roger Bushell, renamed “Bartlett” in the fi lm and portrayed by Richard At-tenborough. Keep the name change in mind when looking for Bushell’s grave, and be sure to sign the visitor’s book that can be found inside a small door on the large white cross monument.QG-2, Park Cytadela.

HEADLESS FIGURESUnveiled as part of Poznań’s 750th birthday celebrations in 2002, this massive troop of towering, headless cast iron fi gures marching aimlessly across Citadel Park is offi cially titled “Unrecognised.” 112 in all, each measuring 2 metres tall, the odd installation is the work of local arts grad and in-ternational art star Magdalena Abakanowicz, who is keep-ing mum on its meaning. Those with ties to Chicago might recognise a similar installation in Grant Park, while a few more of Abakanowicz’s headless fright patrol can be found wandering lost in the courtyard of the Imperial Castle.QH-1, Park Cytadela.

MONUMENT TO THE HEROES OF THE POZNAN CITADELOne of the most noticeable features of Citadel Park is the Soviet Obelisk (also known as the Monument to the Heroes of the Poznań Citadel) located prominently at the top of the grand staircase as you enter the park from Aleja Armii Poznan (G-2). The giant Socialist Realism column is dedi-cated to the Russian soldiers killed during the 1945 siege of the fort, and it’s most interesting aspect is perhaps the one you can no longer see: the large red star affi xed to the top which disappeared in the dead of night after the fall of communism in Poland in 1989. Offi cial complaints by the Russian Embassy to track down the star and its thieves were, unsurprisingly, largely ignored by police, and for years the public was left to speculate what became of the red emblem (a rumour that the star was fi lled with jewels proved to be one popular urban myth). In recent years, however, a local journalist looking into the mystery was able to swiftly solve it: local fi remen had removed the

star using their rescue ladders. They fessed up and turned it over without consequence to the city, which has plans to restore it and eventually put it on display at the Historical Museum of Poznań.QG-1, Park Cytadela.

MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTSThe remains of this Prussian fort (which was used as a war laboratory to produce gunpowder and shells during World War II) prove to be the perfect location for the Museum of Armaments, which features displays of various weaponry and ammunition as well as photos of battles from Poznań’s history. Most interesting for military buff s however is the outdoor exhibition laden with a whole host of war ma-chinery including a T-34 tank, a ‘Katyusha’ rocket launcher, bombers and a MIG-15. Pick up the 0.50zl English language guide to get the most out of the place.QG-1, Park Cytade-la, tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł. Fri free. N

POZNAŃ ARMY MUSEUMRecently re-opened after a long renovation, the museum provides visitors with the chance to learn more about the city’s military history, with particular focus on the Second World War and the interwar period. A large number of items from these times are on display, including various newspaper cuttings, weapons, photos and uniforms. But other eras are covered too, with some artifacts - such as old bullets and army storage devices - dating back as far as 1897. Note that the ticket also includes entrance to the Museum of Armaments, also located in Citadel Park.QH-2, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Ad-mission 6/3zł. Fri free. N

THE BELL OF PEACE AND FRIENDSHIP AMONG NATIONSErected in 1986, the ‘Bell of Peace and Friendship Among Nations’ was installed too late to spare Poznań from a large-ly turbulent 20th century, but it plays a role in the remem-bering when its rung on holidays and anniversaries such as Liberation Day (February 23rd) when the Germans capitu-lated at the fort during World War II. Weighing 850 kg, the dove-embossed bell hangs 10m above the ground and can allegedly be heard from 10km away.QH-1, Park Cytadela.

GETTING THERE

If the weather is nice there’s no reason not to walk to Citadel Park from the Rynek. The stroll is just under 2km and should take 25-30 minutes. Those who pre-fer a quicker route can grab a bus at the ‘Fredry’ stop (near Pl. Ratajskiego, B-2) and take it four stops to the ‘Armii Poznan’ stop outside the park. Another option is tram #3 from ‘Małe Garbary’ near the Rynek (D-1); seven stops later you jump off at ‘Armii Poznań’ and you’re there.

Archiwum Urzędu Miasta Poznania, fot. D. Krakowiak

Archiwum Urzędu Miasta Poznania, fot. D. Krakowiak

Wikipedia/Mateusz.Woźniak/CC BY-SA 3.0

Archiwum Urzędu Miasta Poznania, fot. M. Forecki


1956 UprisingWielkopolska Uprising

Since 1795 - when it was carved between Imperial Russia, Prussia and Habsburg Austria - Poland had been off the map and eff ectively ceased to be a country. Poznań en-joyed brief freedom when Napoleon’s conquering troops liberated much of Poland during their march east in 1806, however Napoleon’s military disaster on the plains of Russia resulted in the 1815 Congress of Vienna, which saw Poznań delivered back into Prussian hands where it would remain for over a century.

With Europe reeling after World War I, Germany in collapse, and Russia plunged into revolutionary chaos, Polish patri-otic fervour once more simmered to the surface. The over-whelmingly Polish people of Poznań could sense indepen-dence was near, but there remained one crucial sticking point: German stubbornness to relinquish the Wielkopolska region. Woodrow Wilson’s plans for an independent Poland had failed to set any boundaries, and though Warsaw was back in the hands of a Polish government, Poznań was still answerable to Berlin. Ever since the Kaiser’s abdication on November 9, 1918, Poznań’s Poles had been plotting an uprising. Positions in local government and industry were forcibly seized by Poles and the countdown was on for out-right war.

Following weeks of tension the fuse was fi nally lit on De-cember 27th. Historical accounts of how the Uprising started vary; some sources claim it was the shooting of Franciszek Ratajczak and Antoni Andrzejewski on the steps of the police headquarters that started the initial fi ghting, though most point to a stirring speech given by the pia-nist and patriot Ignacy Jan Paderewski on the balcony of what was then the Bazar Hotel (Al. Marcinkowskiego 10, C-2). While addressing the Polish crowd assembled below a German counter-demonstration passed by - within mo-ments shots had been fi red and the Uprising had begun. Historians disagree on which side started the hostilities, but either way there was no turning back the clock. Within hours Polish forces had captured the Poznań train station and post offi ce, while other towns in the region joined them in rebellion.

Under the temporary charge of Stanisław Taczak, the Pol-ish forces scored swift successes against a German army shattered from four years of world war, liberating neigh-bouring Kórnik and Mogilno, but counter attacks suggest-ed a stiff ening German resolve. Fighting continued and by January the situation was out of hand. To save the region from total anarchy, the government in waiting (christened NRL) took charge of all civil and military issues, conscript-ing all Polish men born between 1897 and 1899 into military service. Taking their oaths of allegiance in what is today Plac Wolności (B-2), the Polish troops continued to march into increasingly fi erce battles with their German counterparts.

Thankfully, peace was just around the corner, due in no small part to French intervention. February 14, 1919 saw the beginning of international peace talks, and within two days the French delegation had persuaded the Germans to sign an extension of the Allied-German armistice, this time including the Wielkopolska front. Sporadic fi ghting contin-ued for the next few days, but to all intents and purposes, Poznań, and with it Wielkopolska, were liberated.

WIELKOPOLSKA UPRISING MONUMENTSitting in the northwest end of Drweckich Park, the Wiel-kopolska Uprising Monu-ment was designed by Alfred Wiśniewski and unveiled on September 19, 1965. The monument itself is a granite-covered 17 metre tall tower decorated with reliefs that depict the Wielkopol-ska struggle, including the student strike in Września, famed Polish revolutionary Marcin Kasprzak and the

death of the fi rst upriser Franciszek Ratajczak. Standing proudly next to the monument are statues of two upris-ers: one is an offi cer with a sabre, the other a private hold-ing a gun.QF-4, Corner of ul. Królowej Jadwigi and ul. Wierzbięcice.

WIELKOPOLSKA UPRISING MUSEUMPrimarily chronicling the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising (though the exhibition starts at the time of partition) this museum occupies a rebuilt structure that once served as home to the Royal Guard. The exhibition includes a 1908 Maxim heavy machine gun sitting behind a row of sandbags, a copy of the uniform worn by the Uprising’s commander-in-chief, as well as original state decorations awarded to him. Other points of interest include a replica banner fl own on the night of the Uprising’s outbreak, pho-tos of troop formations and a series of postcards issued to commemorate the event.QC-2, Stary Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 61 853 19 93, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł. Sat free. N

The Poznań Riots, or the ‘1956 Uprising’ (because PL loves its Uprisings), was the fi rst recognised strike and street demonstration in Communist Poland. Although brutally suppressed, this show of the people’s strength remains an intense source of pride for the local community, and though it would be another 33 years until the people of Po-land would enjoy complete freedom from the Kremlin, the uprising led to a signifi cant liberalisation of Soviet policy in Poland, and would act as a prelude to the 1980 Lenin Shipyard Strikes in Gdańsk that saw the birth of the Solidar-ity movement.

The death of comrade Stalin in 1953 provoked a certain degree of optimism among Poles, promising an end to the social and political terror associated with the Soviet Union’s hegemony of Central and Eastern Europe. Hopes were short-lived, however, as Nikita Khruschev’s address to the 20th Convention of the USSR’s Communist Party in 1956 spoke of strengthening socialism’s grip on the East, and of the dangers of individualism. Simmering with discontent the Polish media helped stir local discord and on June 28th strikes broke out in Poznań’s factories - fi rst in the Stalin brick factory (later the ‘Hipolita Cegielskiego Factory’), be-fore spreading to the city’s other major industrial plants. An estimated 100,000 workers descended on the Munici-pal National Council (now the Zamek building), chanting slogans like ‘Bread and Freedom’ and ‘Out with Bolshevism,’ while demanding lower prices, higher wages and a reduc-tion in work quotas.

Initially peaceful, the protests took a violent turn when it was revealed that the team negotiating on behalf of the strikers in Warsaw had been arrested and detained by the authorities. Infuriated, the demonstrators stormed Poznań prison, liberating 257 inmates, destroying records and seizing armaments. Armed with assorted small arms and petrol bombs, the insurgents marched back to the city centre to continue their protests. With a volatile atmo-sphere threatening to run out of control, the communist authorities reacted by deploying 10,300 soldiers, 400 tanks and 30 armoured personnel carriers to Poznań. Fierce street battles followed, but with the city cut off from the outside world, order was quickly restored by June 30th. The clashes offi cially left 76 civilians and eight soldiers dead, with over 600 strikers injured (though unoffi cial estimates were vastly higher). Victims included a thirteen year old boy shot through the heart while waving a Pol-ish fl ag, and the news of the riots helped spark an equally heroic anti-communist uprising in Budapest. Although Poland was to suff er another three decades of Communist control, the riots had a huge infl uence in the shaping of post-war Poland. The Polish Communist Party was left reel-ing from the chaos, and several Stalinist hardliners found themselves dismissed in a bid to appease the people, as limited social reforms and a small-scale lifting of press cen-sorship followed. A museum commemorating the events of 1956 in the Zamek (ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, A-2) is worth visiting to really understand the momentous events of the ‘Poznan June.’

1956 UPRISING MONUMENTHowever impressive the nearby Mickiewicz is, he fi nds himself outshone by the soaring 1956 Uprising Monument. Made of steel, the two crosses (21 and 19 metres for the number crunchers) were unveiled on June 28th, 1981, the 25th anniversary of the fi rst rebellion against Soviet con-trol. A tablet commemorates a visit by Pope John Paul II in 1997, while close by is an excellent multi-lingual electronic information point fi lled with facts about the rising.QA-2, Pl. Mickiewicza.

1956 UPRISING MUSEUMThe Zamek is an impressive building alright, but pride of place goes to the 1956 Uprising exhibition, honouring the fi rst armed resistance the communist regime faced. Hidden down a side entrance this basement masterpiece features stretchers used to carry the wounded, a tank, a display of arms and rifl es, a room of Socialist propaganda posters, a typical Poznań family’s fl at from the 1950s and a direct copy of a detention cell. Most poignant of all, though, is the space set aside for 13 year old Roman Strzałkowski, the youngest to die in the troubles. Exhibits include his harmonica and domino set, and newspaper clippings showing Strzałkowski picking up prizes for his piano skills.QA-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 852 94 64, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 6/3zł, Sat free. UN

Adam Szelagowski “Wiek XX”, Warszawa 1937

Radomil, pl.wikipedia.org


Jewish PoznańThe history of Jews in Poznań dates back to the fi rst days of the city, though like so many other towns in Central and Eastern Europe this rich heritage was all but extinguished with the horrors that followed Hitler’s rise to power. Al-though fi rst recorded mention of a Jewish presence is dat-ed to 1364, it is commonly accepted that the fi rst Jewish settlers arrived in the 13th century when Prince Bolesław the Pious issued a decree granting Jews his protection. As Poznań grew so did the Jewish population, and by the start of the 15th century it’s estimated that one in four build-ings on ulica Sukiennicza - the de facto centre of the Jew-ish community - were occupied by Jews, a fact not lost on city planners who promptly rechristened it ‘ulica Żydowska,’ or ‘Jewish Street’ (D-1). An infl ux of German burghers and suspicious arsons marked a 15th century decline for Poznań’s Jews, though Poznań’s Jewish population stood around 3,000 in the early 17th century when racial ten-sions reached a nadir with the infamous 1736 trial of Rabbi Yossef, who was accused of ritual slaughter and publicly burnt at the stake.

When the city fell under Prussian jurisdiction in the 19th century, however, Jews slowly found themselves accepted into the fold. Following the Great Fire of 1803 they were allowed to live freely throughout the rest of the city and as such ties between Jews and Germans strengthened. In fact, so solid were these relations that the Jewish community rallied around the Germans during the 1918-1919 Wiel-kopolska Uprising, a fact not forgotten by the local Poles. When Poznań was absorbed into the Polish nation in 1919 the Jews found themselves once more on the hard end of local feelings, and a signifi cant number migrated west to Germany, where they expected greater tolerance.

With WWII looming, Poznań’s Jewish population stood around 1,500 - a number that would vanish soon after the city was annexed into the Third Reich in 1939. The city was named capital of the Wartegau province, and a plan was hatched to rid the city of its Jews within three months. Deportations began on December 11th of the same year, with Jews packed into cattle trucks bound for the ghettos of Warsaw or Lublin, and on April 15, 1940, the fascist rag Ostdeutscher Beobachter gleefully reported the removal of the Star of David from the last synagogue left standing. Those who remained in the Poznań region were sent to a labour camp next to the city stadium where their du-ties primarily consisted of building roads and other back-breaking work. The camp operated until August 1943, when the decision was taken to liquidate both camp and inmates. Indeed, Poznań was something of a model Nazi city, and on October 4, 1943, Heinrich Himmler gave a sordid speech to his Nazi cronies about the extermination of the Jewish people. A small number of Jews survived in hiding, and after the war several hundred actually re-turned to re-settle in the city. However no eff ort was made by the government to re-establish Jewish culture, and the subsequent anti-Zionist policies of the post-war commu-nist government saw the number of Jews dwindle to well under a hundred.

The Nazis were meticulous in their destruction of Jewish heritage and traces of it are few and far between today. Rather miraculously, however, Poznań’s Old Synagogue (ul. Wroniecka 11a, D-1) survived the war by being con-verted into a swimming pool and rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht offi cers. The ‘swimagogue’ (as it was cheekily known) was returned to the Jewish community in 2002, however disrepair forced its closure and plans for its resto-ration have stalled.

The early 19th century Jewish cemetery on ul. Głogowska was destroyed and its tombstones used to pave roads during WWII, after which the area was in-corporated into the Trade Fair grounds. In recent times, however, steps have been taken to commemorate its ex-istence with a memorial plaque on ul. Głogowska 26a (E-4), and in 2008 a ceremony took place to commemo-rate Rabbi Akiva Eger - commonly accepted as Poznań’s greatest Rabbi. Previously a parking lot, his grave site has been turned into a grassy square named in his honour. A memorial to the victims of Poznań’s Nazi labour camp stands by the Multikino (ul. Królowej Jadwigi 51, G-5), and Poznań’s only functioning Jewish prayer house can be visited on ul. Stawna 10 (D-1). Other ef-forts have also been made to reintroduce Jewish culture to the city, and August sees the annual Tzadik Poznań Festival, a feast of music aimed at celebrating the past, building bridges and opening dialogue between local communities.

© Neo[EZN], fotopolska.eu

THE JEWISH COMMUNITY

Celebrating their 15th anniversary in 2014, Poznań’s Jewish community organises commemorative events and exhibitions around the city. This should be your fi rst contact for connecting with Poznań’s Jewish heri-tage.QD-1, ul. Stawna 10, tel. (+48) 61 855 21 18, www.poznan.jewish.org.pl.

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Gniezno

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Gniezno

While the people of Poznań are eager to claim their city as Poland's fi rst capital, anyone with a passing knowledge of Polish history will recognise this as a fi b. That title belongs to Gniezno, a picturesque town lying just 50km east of Poz. In all of Poland nowhere is more synonymous with the foundation of the Polish state than Gniezno. Although the capital was eventually shifted to Kraków and then Warsaw, Gniezno remained an important centre of worship and is still regarded today as Poland's ecclesiastical capital. For the visitor it is an intriguing town full of spires and cobbles, a superb medicine to the frantic fl ap of urban Poland.

SIGHTSEEING GNIEZNO ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUMIf your eyes are still hankering for the sight of more treasure then head here to view a lavish collection of ecclesiastical riches: golden goblets, embroidered vestments, state gifts received by cardinals, oil paintings, coffi n portraits and even a chalice purporting to have once belonged to St. Adalbert are all presented here. An absolute feast for the eyes that is sure to present moral dilemmas for kleptomaniacs. A recent renovation has added an additional fl oor of riches for you to peruse.Qul. Kolegiaty 2, tel. (+48) 61 426 37 78, www.muzeumag.com. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 6/4zł. N

THE MUSEUM OF THE ORIGINS OF THE POLISH STATEHoused in a functional concrete carbuncle this museum features numerous audio-visual presentations designed to appeal to the numerous school trips that file through the doors, as well copies of archaeological relics dating back to the founding of the Polish state - that means lots of pots, vases, bowls and daggers. There’s also a 3D movie about the beginning of the Polish state, which runs in several languages.Qul. Kostrzewskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 426 46 41, www.mppp.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 30zł, group ticket over 10 people 9/6zł per person, Sun free. UN

GNIEZNO CATHEDRALGniezno’s Cathedral is regarded as the spiritual home of Poland’s former monarchy - it’s here Poland’s fi rst fi ve kings were crowned. To truly enjoy it requires two visits; a guided tour sees all manner of stories and legends revealed, while a follow up solo tour allows you to really take stock of the riches and relics before you.

Ask anyone and they’ll tell you the principal highlight of the Cathedral is the ‘Gniezno doors,’ a pair of winged bronze doors from the 12th century where you naturally begin your tour. Featuring 18 panels, each masterfully engraved with scenes from the life of St. Adalbert, start from Adalbert’s birth on the bottom left panel, and then follow his story upwards and around. Of note are an exorcism illustrated on the sixth panel, and his murder on the fourteenth. Yep, that’s his head on a stick in the next.

Regarded as one of the most important pieces of Romanesque art in Poland, ironically no one has a clue who created them, unlike the portal that frames the door - look closely and you’ll notice the signature scribble of the craftsmen on the left side. Worthy of further investigation in its own right, the portal dates from 1400 and features an engraving of Jesus sitting on a rainbow (rainbows were believed to mark the entrance to heaven) with two swords in his mouth - symbolic of the power he wields in both heaven and earth.

Next up is a trip to the crypt - the highlights of which include Poland’s oldest gravestone, the coffi ns of the country’s past primates, and the pattern of the tiled fl oor (which you might recognise from the 10zł note) - before onto the Cathedral proper. Originally built between 1324 and 1370 the Cathedral has been patched up and embellished over the course of time, and nowadays it is the Baroque fl ourishes that steal the show. It’s impossible to put a fi gure on the number of must-see details, and it’s at this stage where having a guide becomes invaluable. The 13 arcades around the presbytery are symbolic of Jesus and the 12 apostles, and there’s a heavy emphasis on allegorical symbolism. At the rear of the Cathedral you can spot one of only two works by Wit Stwosz found outside Kraków. In total the Cathedral is surrounded by 13 side chapels holding a number of points of interest, including a miracle working crucifi x found in the Chapel of Jesus. The cross has accompanied the Polish army into battle since the 17th century when it was fi rst seen to bleed.

The elaborate gold confession, situated at the top end of the Cathedral, is stunning, and said to be modelled on the Confession of St. Peter’s in Rome. Beneath it is the silver sarcophagus of St. Adalbert, designed by Gdańsk master craftsman Peter van Rennen. Considered the most important relic in the country the silver coffi n is balanced on six eagles, and carried on the fi gures of a priest, peasant, townsperson and knight.

GETTING TO GNIEZNO

Nothing could be easier than getting to Gniezno from Poznań. Trains run frequently throughout the day and you’ve got two trains to choose from: the TLK is direct and costs 19zł; and the REGIO which is the slower as it lurches to a stop at every hamlet costing 13.50zł along the way. Journey time will take 35-55 minutes. Travel-lers using the TLK train should note that Gniezno is the fi rst stop on the route; don’t expect any announcements alerting you to your arrival. The train station is a simple aff air featuring an ATM, newsagent and cafe. Getting to town is ABC stuff with the Rynek lying little more than a ten minute walk from the station. Simply follow ul. Dworcowa until you reach ul. Mieszka I, and then follow the latter to its conclusion. Alternatively live the high life and splash out on a cab: 10zł should be enough to get you dropped off in the market square (Rynek).

HOLY TRINITY CHURCH

An interesting church with a Gothic tower whose key feature is a ‘millennium clock’ complete with a moving fi gure of St. Adalbert. Much of the church was destroyed by fi re and its interiors were thereafter treated with a baroque brush. Outside are the only skeletal remains of the ancient city walls which once ringed Gniezno.Qul. Farna 6, tel. (+48) 61 426 15 55, www.fara.gniezno.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. No visiting during mass please.

Photo by Janos Korom Dr., fl ickr.com, CC BY-SA 2.0

© gkordus/istockphoto.com


GnieznoUnfortunately visitors are denied the opportunity to view the library. Treasures here include Poland’s oldest book (dating from 880AD), a papal edict that features the fi rst recorded use of the Polish language, and numerous letters penned by Poland’s former regents. Though frustrating, this locked door policy is fully understandable. The Cathedral has had misfortune served up in spades. Its signifi cance to the Polish state has not been lost on invaders and as a result it’s been burned, looted, battered and destroyed on numerous occasions. Napoleon’s troops turned it into a stable, while the ‘liberating’ Red Army shelled it for no apparent reason.

The Nazis, meanwhile, replaced St. Adalbert’s portrait with that of Hitler and planned to use the building as a concert venue for high-ranking fascists. Legend goes, however, that on opening night a bishop drifted unannounced across the hall and disappeared into the crypt below. Shots were fi red at the unannounced gatecrasher, but none hit their mark, spooking the Nazis enough to scrap their plans and not set foot inside again. Unfortunately this didn’t stop them from employing Volksdeutsch workers and systematically stripping the building of its valuables, melting the gold and shipping off countless treasures to shady vaults. Only the confession and the organ escaped them - the latter only to be blown to smithereens by the Soviets in 1945. The bell tower shared the same fate, which explains why you’ll see the original bell lying outside the main entrance. Rebuilt (with no bell) the bell tower is open in better weather (though closed in winter) and its 231 steps lead to panoramic views across town.Qul. Łaskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 424 13 89. The Cathedral is open 09:00 - 11:45, 13:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Admission requires 3 tickets to see the Cathedral’s 3 highlights: Cathedral 1.5zł/1zł, Underground 2.5zł/2zł, Doors 2.5zł/2zł.

To get the most out of your visit we recommend you hire a guide; again each section is separate: Cathedral 30zł, Underground 20zł, Doors 10zł. Note the prices here are to hire the guide, not the price per person, and you still need a separate ticket/s.

Photo by Marcin Chady, fl ickr.com, CC BY 2.0

OLD TOWN

Gniezno received its city charter in 1285, as a bustling area of commerce developed around its market square (Rynek). The great fi re of 1819 gutted this area, and most buildings have been rebuilt. What remains of the city’s defensive walls can be found south of the Rynek close to ul. Słomianki and the Holy Trinity Church. You’ll notice religious buildings at every turn, though predictably none representing the Jewish faith; after a high-ranking Nazi offi cial broke his leg while clamber-ing up it in an alcoholic stupor, he ordered the town synagogue set ablaze. In recent years, Gniezno’s fi nest moment came when the Congress of Gniezno was held here in 2000. The leaders of Germany, Poland, Czech Republic, Hungary and Slovakia met in Gniezno to celebrate the town millennium, and in a symbol of unity planted fi ve oak trees in the ‘reconciliation valley’ running north of the Rynek. The German chancellor later dined in the restaurant of the Hotel Pietrak (itself a former vodka factory), and today diners have the op-portunity to order exactly what he ate.

TOURIST INFORMATION

An Aladdin’s cave of Gniezno-related info. Expect Eng-lish language pamphlets, maps and brochures, as well as hotel and restaurant lists and guided tours supplied courtesy of an amicable young team of local enthu-siasts.QRynek 14, tel. (+48) 61 428 41 00, www.szlakpiastowski.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.


LeisureLeisure

SLEIGH RIDESIf you’ve come from a country where the ‘Fun Police’ and litigation have soured a lot of the good time activities you remember as a child, suspend your disbelief and enjoy a traditional Polish sleigh ride by heading off into the snowy woods at night with a bottle of spirits and fl aming torches. Combining Sleepy Hollow creepiness with winter wonder-land romance, extreme sports excitement and campfi re ca-maraderie, a typical ride involves a large horse-drawn sled with sleigh bells jingling and fl aming torches lighting the way through the beautiful snow-draped countryside, while people take turns clinging for dear life to a small sledge tied to the back. Most include a mid-journey forest bonfi re with grilled sausages, tea or (in most cases) vodka. Great fun with the family or friends, the companies below off er such excursions for all ages from the season’s fi rst snowfall.

STAJNIA CZTERY KOPYTAAvailable as soon as the snow appears. Rides take place in a nearby forest, though can be done somewhere else if groups prefer. Prices begin at 20zl per person depending on time, number of people, perks (with torch or without), food and bonfi res.Qul. Okrężna 33, Dachowa, tel. (+48) 604 90 70 83, www.stajnia-czterykopyta.pl.

SPA & BEAUTY HARMONIA SPAYou’ll fi nd pretty much all you could ever need for some se-rious ‘R&R’ (that’s rest and relaxation) in this 500m2 beauty salon and wellness club on the 2nd fl oor of the Andersia Hotel. Includes a swimming pool with hydro-massage, jacuzzi, Finnish and steam sauna, gym, relaxation room, aerobics room, solarium, bar and more.QG-4, Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 667 83 00, www.spaharmonia.pl. Wellness section open 06:30 - 22:30; Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:30 (sauna, solarium, gym, jacuzzi). Spa open daily 10:00 - 22:30 (body treatments).

THAI-LAND MASSAGEExperience everything from a traditional Thai foot massage to a full body massage at Thai-Land, which features month-ly promotions and passes that give customers a welcome discount.Q(C-3), ul. Długa 14, tel. (+48) 510 40 45 04, www.thai-land.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

THAI SMILE MASSAGEAnyone looking to escape the raucous buzz of Poz’s city cen-tre could do a lot worse than relaxing with a fi ne massage. A peaceful, modern environment (with English speaking staff ) only fi ve minutes from the market square, Thai Smile Mas-sage is an ideal place to forget about the day’s woes while you let one of the authentic Thai massage therapists work their wonders. Two rooms to choose from (massage room and the oil room) and a cup of tea afterwards is enough for the IYP staff to give this place the thumbs up.QB-3, ul. Ogrodowa 17/4, tel. (+48) 727 90 52 96, www.thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

Whether you're looking to take a break from the bustle of the Rynek or just want an excuse to stretch your legs, Poznań off ers a multitude of parks, green spaces and recre-ational activities to consider. First and foremost are the 89 hectare Citadel Park (see p.62) - full of leafy promenades, historical monuments and museums, and Lake Malta (p.74) - one of the most unique urban recreation areas on the continent. As such, we’ve devoted a separate section of our Leisure pages especially for all of the attractions and activities around Lake Malta’s shores, from skiing and skat-ing in the winter to bike rentals and mini golf in the warmer months. The area is absolutely perfect for families, with the New Zoo and the fantastic Termy Maltańskie water park both located on Lake Malta. Whatever you’re looking for, use the listings below to stay active in every season.

ADRENALINE SPORTS PAINTBALL FORT DĘBIECAdd authenticity to the paintball experience by killing your mates in a 19th century military fort.Qul. 28 czerwca 1956 352 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 511 20 58 55, www.poznan-paintball.pl. Open by prior agreement. Prices are available via their website and depend on the type of route and play selected.

POZNAŃ INDOOR KARTINGPoznań’s premier Go Karting track with over 2,600 metres of track and carts for both kids and adults.Qul. Bolesława Krzywoustego 72, (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 872 01 97, www.gokartypoznan.pl. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Admission 22.50-37.50 zł per 12min.

BOWLING & BILLIARDS BILLABOOM BILLIARDS CLUBA few games of pool is always a good way to start a night out and this is the perfect choice for those stay-ing in the close-by Mercure or Sheraton hotels. There’s an ever-so-slight ‘clubby’ vibe to Billaboom, with the downstairs bar looking more like something you’d see on the main square. But it’s upstairs where you’ll find all the action taking place as groups of lads battle it out for bragging rights and seven ball supremacy.QE-3, ul. Mickiewicza 32, tel. (+48) 61 847 58 18, www.billaboom.com. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00.

MK BOWLINGAt first glance, MK Bowling looks like a cross between an American diner and a night club - mainly down to the red booths, large bar and larger choice of drinks - including the very American option of ordering beer by the pitcher. It’s on the lanes (seven in total) where you’ll find the real fun, however, and there are plenty of promotions including student discounts Mon-Thu until 17:00 (before which bowling is only 40zł/hour). If you can beat our top score of 268 then the next pitcher is on us.QB/C-2, ul. Święty Marcin 24 (Galeria MM), tel. (+48) 61 222 50 51, www.mkbowling.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. Prices vary depending on day of the week and hour of day: 10-14zł per person per game, or rent 1hr of lane time for everyone for 59-89zł.

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TRADITIONAL THAI MASSAGE

+48 727 905 296

www.Thai-Smile.pl

THE OLD ZOO

Poland’s oldest zoo dates to 1874 and still has some picturesque old pavilions, but most of the critters have been carted off to the New Zoo on the other side of the city, and the Old Zoo has largely been reshaped as a public park. There is, however, a modern Reptile House here, where you can watch Komodo dragons strutting their stuff , pythons slithering, and caymans splashing around. It’s worth the admission price, and enjoyable to visit without the exhaustion and crowds of the New Zoo.QE-3, ul. Zwierzyniecka 19, tel. (+48) 61 848 08 47, www.zoo.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Last en-trance 1 hour before closing. Admission free; 8/6zł for the Reptile House. YU


Lake Malta

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Lake Malta

Of Poznań’s many lakes it’s Malta - to the east - that is the best known, and its surroundings are well worth further investigation. Formed in 1952 as a result of damming the Cybina, this 2.2km long lake is the largest man-made lake in the city, with an average depth of 3.1 metres. Surrounded by parks and woodland, it is today one of the principal rec-reation areas in the region - in both summer and winter - with an ice-rink, ski slope (the fi rst in former communist Europe), a world-class regatta course, zoo, water park, and dozens of other attractions, including several historical sights. Just east of the centre, but miles from the madness of the market square, if you’re in town to decompress, head to Malta.

HISTORYWhat you see before you wasn’t always a lake, more of a river running by Poznań. In 1178 Prince Mieszko invited representatives of the Knights Hospitaller to the region, and they in turn built St. John of Jerusalem Church - now regarded as the oldest brick place of worship in the coun-try. By 1530 the West European branch of the Knights had resettled on Malta, and so their order found itself renamed The Knights of Malta. The chaps who had come to Poland followed suit, and soon the locals were also referring to the area they decamped to as ‘Malta.’

For the next few hundred years Malta went largely unno-ticed, and it was only in the 19th century that the people of Poznań suddenly realised they had a great place to head for a weekend stroll, or wobble around on a newfangled contraption called a bicycle. Adding to Malta’s appeal was its dense greenery and relative isolation from prying eyes, making it popular with frisky couples. After WWI numerous ideas for Malta came to the fore, but all eventually hit a wall with the exception of Adam Ballenstaedt’s ‘Freedom Mound.’ Not ones to faff around and wait for planning permission it was the Nazis who actually changed Malta to the Malta we know today. It was on their initiation that thousands of slave workers were drafted in and began damming the river to create a lake, and while they never saw their plans realised, the communists who took over did. The job was fi nished in 1952, and the results you can see for yourself.

Between 1980 and 1989 the lake was completely drained, and the surrounding area given a facilities facelift in time for the World Canoeing Championship in 1990. Today it’s still regarded as a top-quality course, as proved by the decision to hold the 2009 World Rowing Championships here. An enormously popular leisure destination for people throughout the region, new attractions and facilities are constantly being added as the area’s allure continues to grow.

GETTING TO LAKE MALTA

Lake Malta is situated just to the east of the city centre and is easily accessible by public transport or taxi. Here are the public transport options from three main points in the centre.

From the main train station (E-4): Take tram 6 from the Most Dworcowy stop directly to Rondo Śródka. The journey takes about 15 minutes.

From ul. Podgórna (C-3): There is no directly tram connecting Podgórna with Rondo Śródka. You should take trams 5 or 16 from the Wrocławska stop and get off at the Kórnicka stop. Then take trams 4 or 7 to the Rondo Śródka stop.

From Małe Garbary (D-1): Take tram 17 from the Małe Garbary stop and get off at Rondo Śródka.

TERMY MALTAŃSKIE

MALTESE BATHSThis new complex adds a whole new dimension to the Poznan leisure market. Located on the north shore of Malta Lake this year-round facility off ers sport pools (one Olympic-sized and another with a 10-metre diving tower), a water park (a series of 11 pools in-cluding a wave pool and children’s play pool) and 12 water slides along with two wild rivers. There is also the World of Saunas (13 saunas, two of which are outdoors, and a vapour bath) and, most recently, a full spa complex with underground thermal springs, off ering a range of therapeutic baths, massages and other health treatments from the fully trained staff .QK-4, ul. Termalna 1, tel. (+48) 61 222 61 61, www.termymaltanskie.com.pl. Sport pools open 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 23:00; water park open 09:00 - 23:00; World of Saunas open 15:00 - 23:00, Sat & Sun 13:00 - 23:00; spa centre 13:00 - 21:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Admission 30-20zł (sport pools + water park + saunas) for the fi rst hour with prices getting lower each additional hour.

www.termymaltanskie.com.pl

WHAT TO DO ADRENALINE ALPINE COASTER A 500 metre long roller coaster fi lled with twisting loops (even a 360 degree twist) that hauls screaming visitors around the track at 40km per hour.QK-4, ul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 61 878 22 12, www.maltaski.pl. Opening hours depend on the weather. 1 ride in a 1-person cart 7zł; 3rides 15zł. 1 ride in a 2-person cart 12zł; 3 rides 25zł.

MALTA SKATING RINKAn indoor rink at Lake Malta. Skate rental available, and for something completely diff erent why not visit on the weekend between 19:00 and 23:00. That’s when DJs enter the ring and play ‘hot hits with hot girls.’QJ-4, ul. Jana Pawła II (corner of ul. Abpa A. Baraniaka), tel. (+48) 61 877 03 54, www.malta.poznan.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. Weekdays 6-4/9-6zł, weekends 11/8zł.

MALTA SKITwo ski slopes, one 150 metres in length, the other over 30 metres. Hours depend heavily on the weather.QK-4, ul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 61 878 22 12, www.maltaski.pl. Should be open around November, weather depen-dent. . Prices are 18-61zł for normal passes, 15-47zł for reduced passes. Private lessons with an English speak-ing instructor are 115zł (requires booking two days in advance). Ski rental is included in price, snowboard is an additional 30zł. Y

MALTA SKI EQUIPMENT RENTALRent bikes, eco-bikes, etc. in summer and skis and snow-boards during the winter (those looking for equipment for Malta Ski should visit the internal ski rental situated near the Malta Ski slopes).QK-4, ul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 61 878 22 41, www.maltaski.pl. Opening hours depend on the weather. Y

THE NEW ZOOThe 116 hectare New Zoo was opened to the public in 1974 after seven years of construction. Housing over 2,000 beasts representing 140 species, it’s comprised of 60 percent pine and mixed forests with a man-made stream and string of ponds running through the grounds. In this way many of the creatures live in recreations of their natural habitats rather than concrete pens. Recent additions include the elephant house, and circling the whole shebang is a year-round mini-railway, meaning visitors can jump off at whatever creature cage takes their fancy.

Located on the far east end of the lake, you can take tram 8 to the end, but it’s bit of a hike from there (about 940m). A Taxi from the centre would cost about 25zł.Qul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 877 35 17, www.zoo.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 1 hour be-fore closing. Admission 8zł. YU


Shopping

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Shopping

in this simple space, which won’t take more than a few minutes to peruse.QB-1, ul. 23 Lutego 42, tel. (+48) 61 852 56 17, www.coco-boutique.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

FOOD & SWEETS SŁODKIE CZARY MARYWhen it comes to eateries and boozers, ul. Wrocławska has a fair few strings to its bow, but now here’s another reason to take a look - and it’s aimed at families. In this charming and colourful hand-made sweets shop, most of the interior is occupied by the long work counter where young ladies are busy rolling out the delicious goodies that cover the shop shelves as children and their parents watch in won-der. Not only a great local gift idea, but a unique experi-ence for children, choose from a range of reasonably-priced lollipops and hard candies that come in dozens of fl avours from rhubarb to whiskey-cola. Candy making takes place daily at 12:30, 14:00, and 16:00, and Sat-Sun they add two more chances at 15:00 and 17:00.QH-3, ul. Wrocławska 12, tel. (+48) 511 59 29 19, www.slodkieczarymary.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

ALCOHOLYou may have noticed that here in PL, it's a bit of a drink-ing culture; more of a national pastime, really, compared to the country's success at football. Indeed, nothing says 'I've been to Poland' like a suitcase of vodka (a new bride being the second hottest commodity). The Poles have been distilling and draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland can make a legitimate claim as the spirit's primordial homeland. As such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir list, even if it's not to your taste. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands you'll fi nd in fancy gift sets, but don't miss Żubrówka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka) and Żołądkowa Gorzka (herbal stomach liqueur). Alcohol shops are more ubiquitous than churches and cabbage in this country, so you should have no trouble stocking up at any time of night.

BASILIUMA shop for serious beer lovers, Basilium stocks around 150 diff erent types of the stuff , giving you a good chance to take home a few quality local fl avours with a bit more character than the mass-produced brews found stocked in supermarkets and local chain stores. There’s also a good selection of wines for those looking for something a bit classier to go with their evening meal and the friendly staff are more than happy to go through the choices with any-one looking for advice before making their purchase.QD-2, ul. Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56, www.basilium.pl. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. Open 15:00 - 02:00.

ANTIQUES & ART GALLERIESThe historic centre is fi lled to bursting with dusty little stores selling antiques - a quick exploration of the side streets will reveal everything from WWII memorabilia to 19th century coins and navigational charts. Do remember when purchasing that permission will be required if you’re planning on taking anything pre-1945 out of the country - for the most part such a certifi cate will be provided by the shop, though do check beforehand.

ANTYKWARIAT NAUKOWYA vintage bookseller that rewards those who are patient enough to dig through boxes of old postcards, prints and telegrams. It’s easy to lose track of time while meandering along the well-stocked shelves. Also at ul. Wielka 10 (D-2).QC-2, ul. Paderewskiego 3/5, tel. (+48) 61 852 63 12, www.antykwariat.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES COCO BOUTIQUEAn oasis of modern after wandering the antique-laden Rynek, Coco Boutique off ers stylish women’s clothing, jew-ellery and handbags. The selection is small but well-chosen

AMBER & JEWELLERY

Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland; the country is renowned for its amber and the crafts-men who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse.

GALERIA YESYes jewellery stores can be found throughout Poland, but this location on Paderewskiego sets itself apart by featuring only up-and-coming Polish designers. The basement gallery off ers a rotating collection of jewellery exhibits that’s always worth a peek.QC-2, ul. Paderews-kiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 851 58 48, www.galeria.yes.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

ŚWIAT BURSZTYNUMajor amber retailer and wholesaler with over 20 years of experience to their name.QC-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 66 88, www.desta-amber.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

W. KRUKPoland’s oldest and most revered chain of jewellery stores caters to men and women with tastes that range from classic amber pendants and Tag Heuer watches to modern designs of their own making. Also at ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar, G-4) and ul. Maltańska 1 (Galeria Malta, J-4).QC-2, ul. Paderewskiego 2, tel. (+48) 661 98 05 61, www.wkruk.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

TAX FREE SHOPPING

Non-EU residents are entitled to claim a VAT refund when the purchased goods are exported in an unused condition outside the EU in personal luggage. Shop wherever you see the Global Blue logo. The minimum total purchase val-ue with VAT per Tax Free Form is 200pln.

Keep the Tax Free Form, have it stamped when leaving the fi nal point of departure from the EU and reclaim your money. For full details check www.globalblue.com.

Yes, that’s a Burberry store you see in Poznań. And Armani. Even Versace. You can wander through the vast, award-winning Stary Browar mall or the expansive Galeria Malta on scenic Lake Malta and spend złoty until you’ve solved the European debt crisis. But if you’re bringing gifts back to show your loved ones what a trip to Poznań is like, a Burb-erry bag made in London won’t cut it. That’s why we’ve made suggestions for what to get for your list of nearest and dearest that actually says, “I went to Poland.”

WIFE / GIRLFRIENDYes is a Poland-wide chain of jewellery stores you can fi nd in nearly any mall, however the store on Paderewskiego off the Rynek in Poznań is set up as a showcase of Polish jewellery artists that constantly rotate through the store. Find amberwood earrings by Marta Włodarska or a sparkly pendant by Tomek Ogrodowski.

HUSBAND / BOYFRIENDOne word: alcohol. Take home any variety of Poland’s fa-mous vodka and a few bottles of local lager and you’ll make any man happy. If your guy’s into craft beer, enjoy booz-ing with the friendly beer afi cionados in Basilium, and get their advice on which bottles to take with you on your way out.

CHILDFor something a bit nicer than what the overstuff ed souve-nir stalls on Stary Rynek have to off er visit Salon Posnania, a souvenir shop where the word ‘tacky’ doesn’t even come into play. We like the child’s t-shirt with the famous City Hall butting goats comically rendered in the recognisable Poznań blue. Alternatively, you can’t lose with local sweets from Słodkie Czary Mary.

MOMWhen we think of what mom would like, one word comes to mind: amber. Poland is renowned for its handsomely-shaped fossilised resin, and you can easily fi nd mom a piece of unique jewellery by using our amber listings. If that fails, you simply can’t miss with Bolesławiec - Poland’s well-loved folk pottery brand; head to Ceramika Bolesławiecka to get yourself acquainted.

DADIf your dad is anything like ours he can lose hours of his life in interesting vintage bookshops. Poznań is packed with them, and Antykwariat just off the Stary Rynek is one of the best for old postcards, unique prints, old books and yel-lowing maps from last century.


Shopping

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS CEPELIAA leading chain of souvenir shops selling native arts and handi-crafts.QD-2, ul. Klasztorna 21, tel. (+48) 61 852 58 14, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

CERAMIKA BOLESŁAWIECKAHand-crafted and hand-painted ceramics originating in the south-west of Poland with many of the patterns forming an important part of the shared Silesian culture of Ger-mans and Poles. The ceramics available cover a wide range of designs and functions with everything from small egg cups to huge fl ower pots on off er. The designs are often attractively simple and can make for an interesting pres-ent.QB-2, ul. Mielżyńskiego 16, tel. (+48) 61 853 47 98, www.ceramicboleslawiec.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

LECH POZNAŃ OFFICIAL SHOPMake friends (or enemies) by popping round the club shop of Poland’s best supported football side. Find your usual collection of mugs, scarves, shirts and fl ags, as well as oddities such as jewellery and the Lech coat of arms.Qul. Bułgarska 17 (INEA Stadium), tel. (+48) 882 12 95 09, www.lechpoznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

SALON POSNANIAA wide selection of souvenirs connected with Poznań including lots of stuff with the most popular symbols of Poznań. Pick up t-shirts, cups, ornaments, post cards, and the like all associated with the head-banging goats for in-stance. You’ll also fi nd the most popular selection of books and albums relating to Poznań, Wielkopolska and Poland in foreign languages as well as locally produced art. A smaller selection of the above is also available at Stary Rynek 59/60 (C-2) and at the airport.QB-2, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 851 96 45, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

SHOPPING MALLS FACTORY OUTLETThis outlet centre is preoccupied with fashion, off ering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping malls. Recognisable names among the brands include Puma, Calzedonia, Desigual, Gino Rossi, Mango and more. One of the only such outlet centres in Europe, a free bus from Rondo Rataje (I-5) runs there regularly. If the Rondo is too far a hike, you can take trams 12 or 18 from ‘Most Dworcowy’ (E-4) to get there.Qul. Dębiecka 1, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 652 30 30, www.factory.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

GALERIA MALTAThe largest retail and entertainment centre in western Po-land with over 162,000 square metres of shopping and lei-sure opportunities. Opened in March 2009, Malta features a Multikino as well as a Marks & Spencer, H&M, TK Maxx, Benneton, Tatuum, Pull & Bear, Vero Moda and Empik. Din-ing opportunities include Salad&Co and Coff ee Heaven. Bus lines 57 and 84 go right to the door, as do trams number 4, 6 and 7.QJ-4, ul. Maltańska 1, tel. (+48) 61 658 10 22, www.galeriamalta.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

STARY BROWAR SHOPPING MALLHoused in an old brewery dating from 1844, the award-winning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed an art, leisure and shopping extravaganza, and its success a sign of Poznań’s economic renaissance. Its opening in 2003 also marked a successful move away from out-of-town developments, and a new trend for inner-city regeneration projects. Originally home to the Huggerów Brewery, the building produced beer until 1980, then mineral water un-til 1998 when it was bought by the Fortis Group and a $66 million USD investment transformed it into the shopping and entertainment Mecca it is today. Covering an area of over 100,000m2, and drawing an average of 40,000 people daily, Stary Browar features over 210 retail units, including the Van Graaf designer store, Alma gourmet delicatessen, several bookshops and much, much more. Summer 2007 marked the completion of phase II of the Stary Browar proj-ect - the expansion of a new wing, thereby nearly doubling it in size.QG-4, ul. Półwiejska 32, tel. (+48) 61 859 60 50, www.starybrowar5050.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

POZNAN CITY CENTERShopping ‘centres’ simply don’t get any more ‘central’ than this new modern marvel located right next to Poznań’s impressive new train station, meaning you can grab that new winter coat as soon as the fi rst blast of cold air hits you off the train. Featuring over 200 retail spaces, including Saturn, H&M, TK Maxx, Royal Collection and Toys R Us, Poznań City Centre also of-fers plenty of cafes, restaurants and fast food eateries, as well as a multi-level parking garage. Considering its location right in the centre of the city next to the train and bus stations, it couldn’t possibly be better con-nected to public transport or easier to get to. Opening as recently as October 2013, if nothing else this new mega-complex is worth checking out just to appreciate how much Poznań has developed and progressed over the last several years.QE-4, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 61 627 01 90, www.poznancitycenter.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

The biggest shopping mall in Poznań!Shopping Center, 200 shops, 30 restaurants.

Located next to the railway station.

www.poznancitycenter.pl

and more!

All under one roof in the very heart of Poznań:

next to the main train station

opposite the Poznań International Fair

shopping & leisure

free WiFi

restaurants & cafés

fitness club


DirectoryDirectory

PRIVATE CLINICSKLINIKA GRUNWALDZKAQE-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 324, tel. (+48) 61 867 99 01, www.klinikagrunwaldzka.pl.

LUXMEDQE-3, ul. Roosevelta 18, tel. (+48) 22 33 22 888, www.luxmed.pl.

REAL ESTATEGLOBAL INVESTQul. Fredry 1 (1st fl oor), tel. (+48) 602 21 55 09, www.globalinvestpoland.com.

MAMDOMQwww.mamdom.com.

OBER-HAUS REAL ESTATE ADVISORSQF-4, ul. Towarowa 41, tel. (+48) 61 851 90 00, www.ober-haus.pl.

RELIGIOUS SERVICES5N CHURCHPolish services translated to English at 10:00 every Sunday.QOs. Bolesława Chrobrego 117 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 514 919 664, www.k5n.pl.

MUSLIM CULTURE & RECREATION CENTREServices on Fridays at 12:30.Qul. Biedrzyckiego 13 (Wil-da), tel. (+48) 61 864 10 48.

POZNAŃ INTERNATIONAL CHURCHQE-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. (+48) 791 99 04 94, [email protected], www.international.pl. English-speaking service at 10:30 every Sunday.

RELOCATION COMPANIESCORSTJENS WORLDWIDE MOVERS GROUPQul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 737 72 00, www.corstjens.com.

UNIVERSAL EXPRESS WORLDWIDE MOVERSQul. Księdza Wawrzyniaka 2, Komorniki, tel. (+48) 61 665 01 61, www.uer.pl.

TRANSLATORS & INTERPRETERSBIURO TŁUMACZEŃ DELTAQul. Starowiejska 1a/5 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 828 80 81, www.btd.pl.

BUSINESS SERVICEQul. Szeherezady 47 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 868 44 47.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE

Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find in Poznań, but as with any international destination, it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never change your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that won’t rip you off, and don’t take a commission.

KANTOR GOLDQC-3, Pl. Wiosny Ludów 2 (Kupiec Poznański), tel. (+48) 61 850 89 51, www.kantor-gold.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

KANTOR PRZEMEKSQD-2, ul. Garbary 62, tel. (+48) 61 855 76 10, www.kantorprzemeks.pl. Open 09:30 - 17:30.

KANTOR PRZEMEKSQG-4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 859 64 66, www.kantorprzemeks.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

IRELANDQul. Mysia 5, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 849 66 33, www.embassyofi reland.pl.

NETHERLANDSQul. Kawalerii 10, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 559 12 00, www.nlembassy.pl.

RUSSIAQE-3, ul. Bukowska 53a, tel. (+48) 61 841 77 40.

SLOVAKIAQul. Litewska 6, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 525 81 10, www.mzv.sk/varsava.

TURKEYQul. Malczewskiego 32, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 854 61 10, www.warsaw.emb.mfa.gov.tr.

USAQC-2, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 851 85 16, poland.usembassy.gov.

EMERGENCY ROOMSHCP - CENTRUM MEDYCZNEQul. 28 Czerwca 1956 r. 186 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 831 29 03, www.centrum-medyczne-hcp.pl.

SZPITAL MIEJSKI IM. JÓZEFA STRUSIAQul. Szwajcarska 3 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 873 93 46, www.szpital-szwajcarska.poznan.pl.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLSBERLITZQF-3, ul. Mielżyńskiego 14A, tel. (+48) 61 222 20 22, www.berlitz.pl.

EMPIKQB-1, ul. 27 Grudnia 17/19 (2nd fl oor), tel. (+48) 61 851 00 62, www.empikschool.com.

POST OFFICESPOCZTA POLSKAQA-2, ul. Kościuszki 77, tel. (+48) 61 869 74 08, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

POCZTA POLSKAQE-4, ul. Głogowska 17, tel. (+48) 61 869 72 67, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.

POCZTA POLSKAQD-2, ul. Wodna 17/19, tel. (+48) 61 886 55 19, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

24HR PHARMACIESAPTEKA CENTRALNA DOZQC-1, ul. 23 lutego 18, tel. (+48) 61 852 26 25.

APTEKA GALENICAQC-3, ul. Strzelecka 2/6, tel. (+48) 61 852 99 22, www.aptekagalenica.pl.

24HR SHOPSLEWIATANQB-1, ul. Karola Libelta 6.

LOTOSQJ-3, ul. Jana Pawła II 2, tel. (+48) 519 07 56 26.

CONSULATES & EMBASSIESCZECH REPUBLICQul. Koszykowa 18, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 525 18 50, www.mzv.cz/warsaw.

DENMARKQul. Marszałkowska 142, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 565 29 00, www.polen.um.dk.

GREAT BRITAINQul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00, www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk.

What’s going on

in Poland?

Get a round-up of the major Polish news, business,

entertainment and sports in English each week by

subscribing free to our PDF. Visit us at

www.newpolandexpress.pl

The country was rocked this week by news that a high-ranking army of-ffficer had been held on suspicion of

spying for Russia.The unnamed man was held in a raid on

the Ministry of National Defence earlier in the week and this was followed by asecond detention, this time of a Warsaw-based lawyer who is believed to have takenpart in meetings of the parliamentary committee working on the fuel market. The lawyer was named as Stanislaw Sz. andRadio Zet reported that the man holds dualPolish and Russian citizenship.

The head of the Warsaw Appellate Prosecutor’s Office Dariusz Korneluk confirmed to TVN that a man had been held and was expected to be charged. “Iconfirm that we have today received a request for the provisional arrest of thesuspect. I confirm that this is a lawyer with dual citizenship,” he said. TVN reported that unofficial sources had told them the man was believed to have been working with GRU, the largest foreign intelligenceagency in the Russian Federation. The suspect faces up to 10 years in prisonif found guilty of helping a foreignintelligence agency against the Polish Republic.

Both the army officer and the lawyerwere detained by officers from the Internal

Security Agency (ABW) but the cases arebeing handled by different prosecutors – one military the other civilian. TVN sourcesclaim the two cases are not connected butthat both men were suspected of workingfor Russian Intelligence.

Head of the National Security Bureau (BBN) Stanislaw Koziej told RadioRMF FM that he did not find the arrests surprising as there was a constantinformation war going on in Europe withroutine battles between intelligence andcounter-intelligence. “The fight is going onall the time, you do not need to tell anyone that there is a vast intelligence network. In

every country, every intelligence agency has its own network and on the other hand is counterintelligence”.

Mr Koziej went on to warn that the success of Polish Intelligence should not be gauged by the number of arrests that are made. “The question is whether this network is being monitored, whether these agents are under control, and whether counter-intelligence knows what information they are passing,” he said pointing out that catching a spy often meant that further observation of them by the secret services would be of no furtheruse.

The seaside town of Sopot was hit by more controversy this week when highschool children held a huge party in thetown which left the popular resort facinga huge clean-up operation the followingmorning.

A former resident of Wroclaw jail hassuccessfully sued the institution on thegrounds that his cell’s toilet area did not afford him any “basic dignity”.

Adam W. initially filed for PLN 90,000 writes Gazeta Wyborcza, however the court eventually settled on PLN 1,000.

It has been a pretty long time ago sinceanything quite like this surrounded Po-land’s football national team - there was excitement, pride and praise, emotions rarely assigned to the proud, yet often too stubborn or too critical Poles.

Drunk teenagers trash SopotPrisoner successfully sues jail Happy, happy days

Tinker, Tailor, SOLDIER, Spy?

REGIONAL p.6NATIONAL p.4 SPORT p.10

Friday 17th October 2014

Polish News and Entertainment

©T

VN

24

Issue 35 (282)

held by ABW

The army officer was held by officers from the Internal Security Agency on Wednesday


Hotels

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Hotels

CREAM OF THE CROP BLOW UP HALL 5050QG-4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 80, www.blowuphall5050.com. 22 rooms (22 singles, 18 doubles). PHUKD hhhhh

CITY PARK HOTEL & RESIDENCEQE-4, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26a, tel. (+48) 61 221 84 00, www.cityparkhotel.pl. 88 rooms (88 apartments). PTH6FKDC hhhhh

IBB ANDERSIA HOTELQG-4, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. (+48) 61 667 80 00, www.andersiahotel.pl. 171 rooms (144 singles, 144 doubles, 27 apartments). PTH6UFLKDCw hhhh

NH POZNAŃQA-2, ul. Św. Marcin 67, tel. (+48) 61 624 88 00, www.nhpoznan.pl. 93 rooms (93 singles, 93 doubles). PTH6UFKDw hhhh

SHERATON POZNAN HOTELQE-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan. 180 rooms (167 singles, 167 doubles, 13 apartments). PTH6UFLK�DCw hhhhh

UPMARKET BROVARIAQC-2, Stary Rynek 73-74, tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. 21 rooms (3 singles, 17 doubles, 1 apart-ment). PTHK hhh

DON PRESTIGEQC-2, ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. (+48) 61 859 05 90, www.donprestige.com. 73 rooms (52 singles, 47 doubles, 20 suites, 1 apartment). PTH6FLK

HOTEL KOLEGIACKIQD-2, Pl. Kolegiacki 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 05 05, www.hotelkolegiacki.pl. 24 rooms (24 singles, 21 doubles). PHUK hhhh

HOTEL REGATTAQul. Chojnicka 49 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 502 78 78 10, www.regattahotel.pl. 23 rooms (22 singles, 22 doubles, 22 triples, 1 apartment). THUFKDCw hhhh

HP PARKQK-4, ul. Baraniaka 77, tel. (+48) 61 874 11 00, www.hotelepark.pl. 97 rooms (96 singles, 96 doubles, 1 apart-ment). PTYH6UK hhh

MAT’SQul. Bułgarska 115 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 868 78 31, www.hotelmats.pl. 35 rooms (3 singles, 21 doubles, 9 suites, 2 apartments). TH6UKD hhh

MERCURE POZNAŃ CENTRUMQE-3, ul. Roosevelta 20, tel. (+48) 61 855 80 00, www.mercure-poznan-centrum.com. 228 rooms (227 singles, 187 doubles, 1 apartment). PTH6U�FLKD hhhh

NOVOTEL POZNAŃ CENTRUMQG-4, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. (+48) 61 858 70 00, www.accorhotels.com. 480 rooms (160 singles, 310 doubles, 10 apartments). PTH6UFLK hhhh

Ul. Św. Marcin 2, 61-803 PoznańTel. +48 61 8590 590Fax. +48 61 8590 591

[email protected]

MORE THAN A HOTEL

THE ONLY SUCH PLACE

SYMBOL KEY

P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted

T Child-friendly H Conference facilities

F Fitness centre U Facilities for the disabled

K Restaurant L Guarded parking on site

D Sauna w Wellness

6 Animal friendly X Smoking rooms available

C Swimming pool

Visitors to Poznań will be pleasantly surprised to fi nd that the city is home to some of the most impressive hotel properties in the country. While Poznań's role as Poland's epicentre for conferences and fairs has clearly benefi ted those who like plush accommodations and modern conveniences to come standard, on the fl ip side those major conferences can cause prices to shoot up when space is in demand (rates tend to double during the annual MTP, Polagra, Budma and Infosystem fairs). Fortunately most hotels compensate by off ering impressive weekend discounts to encourage travellers to stick around and explore the city. With the increasing irrelevance of offi cial rack rates these days due to these special off ers, online booking discounts and other price variations, we no longer fi nd it particularly instructive to list room prices in our guide. Case in point, anyone who uses the Hotel Calculator function on our website - poznan.inyourpocket.com - will fi nd a better rate than the offi cial prices we once printed; as such, we encourage you to do just that and you can thank us later.On our website you'll also fi nd full reviews, plus photos and reader comments, on all of the hostels and hotels listed in our print guide, plus dozens of other accommodation options in the region; unfortunately, space constraints no longer allow us to print these reviews. Accommodation is categorised here subjectively based on a combination of lodging type, location, price and amenities. The venues listed here also serve as distribution points for our print guide, which can be picked up for free at the reception desks of the addresses listed. Sleep well.

HOTEL KOLEGIACKI **** www.hotelkolegiacki.pl

Restaurant PATIO PROVENCE

Wonderful cuisinein beautiful patio

Classical beauty in the excellent location


HotelsHotels

NOVOTEL POZNAŃ MALTAQK-3, ul. Termalna 5, tel. (+48) 61 654 31 00, www.accorhotels.com. 149 rooms (149 singles, 149 doubles). TH6UFLK hhh

PLATINUM PALACE RESIDENCEQul. Reymonta 19 (entrance from ul. Wyspiańskiego) (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 882 39 40, www.platinumpalace.pl. 14 rooms (14 singles, 13 doubles). PTH6K hhhh

ROYALQA-2, ul. Św. Marcin 71, tel. (+48) 61 858 23 00, www.hotel-royal.com.pl. 39 rooms (11 singles, 26 doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment). THL hhh

STARE MIASTO (THE OLD TOWN)QC-3, ul. Rybaki 36, tel. (+48) 61 659 00 43, www.hotelstaremiasto.pl. 23 rooms (3 singles, 18 doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment). PH hhh

TWARDOWSKIQE-5, ul. Głogowska 358a, tel. (+48) 61 839 98 00, www.hoteltwardowski.pl. 62 rooms (58 singles, 58 doubles, 3 suites, 1 apartment). PTHAR6UFGK�DCwW hhhh

VIVALDIQG-1, ul. Winogrady 9, tel. (+48) 61 858 81 00, www.vivaldi.pl. 48 rooms (38 singles, 9 doubles, 1 apartment). PTH6KD hhhh

MID-RANGE CAMPANILEQE-2, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 96, tel. (+48) 61 845 66 00, www.campanile.com. 80 rooms (76 singles, 76 doubles, 4 apartments). PTH6UK hh

GARDEN BOUTIQUE HOTELQD-1, ul. Wroniecka 24, tel. (+48) 61 223 66 35, www.gardenhotel.pl. 18 rooms (3 singles, 12 doubles, 2 suites, 1 apartment). PTK

HOTEL 222QE-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 222, tel. (+48) 61 899 32 63, www.hotel-222.pl. 51 rooms (51 singles, 51 doubles). PHK hh

HOTEL FORZAQul. Dworska 1 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 821 36 66, www.hotelforza.pl. 24 rooms (24 singles, 24 doubles). PTHK hhh

HOTEL KORELQul. 28 Czerwca 1956 r. 209 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 222 84 00, www.hotelkorel.pl. 41 rooms (34 singles, 13 doubles, 4 suites, 3 apartments). PTHK hhh

HOTEL KSIĘCIA JÓZEFAQul. Ostrowska 391/393 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 872 63 19, www.hotelkj.pl. 24 rooms (6 singles, 17 dou-bles, 1 apartment). PTHK hhh

HOTEL POZNAŃSKIQul. Krańcowa 4, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 649 99 88, www.hotelpoznanski.pl. 107 rooms (100 singles, 100 doubles, 7 suites). THUK hhh

HOTEL REZYDENCJA SOLEI R&CQul. Wałecka 2 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 847 58 38, www.hotel-solei.pl. 23 rooms (22 singles, 16 doubles, 1 apart-ment). TH6K hhhh

IBISQH-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 23, tel. (+48) 61 858 44 00, www.accorhotels.com. 146 rooms (146 singles, 146 doubles). PTH6UK hh

IKARQG-2, ul. Kościuszki 118, tel. (+48) 61 658 71 05, www.hotelewam.pl. 145 rooms (57 singles, 80 doubles, 8 suites). PTH6ULK hhh

LECHQA-2, ul. Św. Marcin 74, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 51, www.hotel-lech.poznan.pl. 77 rooms (77 singles, 44 doubles, 3 triples). hh

MERIDIANQE-1, ul. Litewska 22 (Park Sołacki), tel. (+48) 61 656 53 53, www.hotelmeridian.com.pl. 10 rooms (10 singles, 10 doubles). PH6K hh

POZNAŃ TOURIST CARD

Enterprising tour-ists should con-sider the Poznań Tourist Card - a splendid piece of plastic that entitles the bearer to free or discounted ad-

mission to more than 70 places, plus optional free travel on the city’s public transport system for a small addition-al fee. The card comes a guide explaining how to use it, which places off er free admission (most museums) and which off er discounts (a selection of restaurants, theatres and other attractions such as the zoos, Lech Visitors Cen-tre and various leisure activities). The card can also be used in selected places outside of the city, such as Kórnik Castle, where it is valid for an additional day on top of the number of days it is valid in the city.

Cards cost 35zł for 1-day (30zł without transport), 49zł for 2-days (35zł without transport), and 59zł for 3-days (45zł without transport), and can be pur-chased from every Tourist Information Centre as well as a few hotels. Every venue in our guide which accepts the Poznań Tourist Card has been marked with a TC symbol.


HotelsHotels MŁYŃSKIE KOŁO (THE MILLWHEEL)Qul. Browarna 37 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 878 99 35, www.mlynskiekolo.pl. 14 rooms (12 singles, 12 dou-bles, 2 apartments). 6K

QUALITY SYSTEM - HOTEL POZNAŃQul. Lechicka 101 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 821 07 00, www.quality-hotels.pl. 107 rooms (42 singles, 58 dou-bles, 7 apartments). PTH6UKDC hhh

REZYDENCJA SOLEI B&BQD-1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 510 11 01 30, www.hotel-solei.pl. 11 rooms (7 singles, 2 doubles, 2 apartments). P6

RZYMSKIQC-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22, tel. (+48) 61 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl. 87 rooms (28 singles, 53 doubles, 1 suite, 5 apartments). TH6ULK hhh

TOPAZQF-5, ul. Przemysłowa 34a, tel. (+48) 61 833 76 00, www.hotel-topaz.pl. 38 rooms (9 singles, 26 doubles, 2 triples, 1 suite). TH6UK hhh

VILLA ATELIERQD-2, ul. Klasztorna 19, tel. (+48) 61 224 94 22. 6 rooms (6 singles, 4 doubles, 2 quads). T6

BUDGET GOLDQul. Bukowska 127a (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 842 07 74, www.goldhotel.pl. 11 rooms (11 singles, 11 doubles). H6 hh

HOTEL RAMKAQul. Dąbrowskiego 474 (entrance from ul. Wejherows-ka 10, Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849 94 99, www.hotelramka.pl. 26 rooms (24 singles, 24 doubles, 2 suites). P6K

APARTMENTS APARTAMENTY VELVETQE-4, ul. Śniadeckich 7, tel. (+48) 606 88 88 00, www.evelvet.pl. 13 rooms (13 apartments). AGW

CAPITAL APARTMENTSQC-3, ul. Piekary 16, tel. (+48) 61 852 53 00, www.capitalapart.pl. 29 rooms (29 apartments). T6

PLATINUM PALACE APARTMENTSQB-3, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 671 05 66, www.apartamenty.platinumpalace.pl. 27 rooms (27 apart-ments). T6

POMARAŃCZARNIAQC-3, ul. Rybaki 12, tel. (+48) 515 377 320, www.apartamenty-pomaranczarnia.pl. 36 rooms (36 apart-ments). TA6GW

HOSTELS EXPLORER HOSTELQD-3, ul. Wszystkich Świętych 6, tel. (+48) 600 96 55 55, www.explorerhostel.pl. 22 rooms (22 singles, 12 doubles, 6 triples, 3 quads). LK

FUSION HOSTELQF-3, ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, tel. (+48) 61 852 12 30, www.fusionhostel.pl. 17 rooms (3 doubles, 3 triples, 70 dorm beds). U

LA GUITARRAQC-2, ul. Marcinkowskiego 20, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 74, www.lagitarra.com/poznan. 16 rooms (2 singles, 5 dou-bles, 6 quads, 60 dorm beds). T6

MELODY HOSTELQC-2, Stary Rynek 67 (entrance from ul. Kozia 16), tel. (+48) 61 851 60 60, www.melody-hostel.pl. 16 rooms (2 singles, 10 doubles, 1 quad, 22 dorm beds). T

POCO LOCO HOSTELQB-3, ul. Taczaka 23, tel. (+48) 796 23 05 55, www.hostel.poco-loco.pl. 10 rooms (2 doubles, 4 quads, 38 dorm beds). 6

ROSEMARY’S HOSTELQC-2, ul. Wrocławska 13, tel. (+48) 61 855 27 61. 9 rooms (9 singles, 9 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad). T

SLEEP IN HOSTEL & APARTMENTSQC-2, Stary Rynek 77, tel. (+48) 61 639 40 04, www.sleepinhostel.pl. 20 rooms (20 singles, 20 doubles). 6

SODA HOSTEL & APARTMENTSQE-3, ul. gen. Jana Henryka Dąbrowskiego 27a, tel. (+48) 793 27 27 20, www.sodahostel.com. 14 rooms (8 singles, 5 doubles, 3 quads, 36 dorm beds). T

VERY BERRY HOSTELQC-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 11/17, tel. (+48) 61 855 17 63, www.very-berry.pl. 21 rooms (8 singles, 13 doubles, 4 triples, 3 quads, 24 dorm beds). 6

OUT OF TOWN GREEN HOTELQul. Jeziorna 1a, Komorniki, tel. (+48) 61 810 80 75, www.greenhotel.pl. 44 rooms (40 singles, 36 doubles, 4 apartments). PTH6ULKD hhh

Full contents available online:


Traditional Thai MassageOpen 7 days a week

Reservation: ul. Długa14/2a+48 510 404 504

www.thai-land.pl

HOTEL CALCULATOR

Get the Best Rates on poland.inyourpocket.com

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ul. Stary Rynek 77

phone +48 61 639 40 04www.sleepinhostel.pl

THE BEST APARTMENTS AND HOSTEL LOCATED DIRECTLY ON THE OLD MARKET SQUARE.

COMFORTABLE ROOMS AND DELICIOUS BREAKFAST AT A GOOD PRICE.

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STANISŁAWA MATYI

L a k e M a l t a

SheratonPoznań

Old Zoo

Mat‘s

Fancy House

Gaja

Campanile

Poznań

Soda

Fusion

Poco Loco

La Guitarra

NH Poznań

City Park Hotel & Residence

ParkDrwęskich

Hotel

Twar

dowsk

i

Blow UpHall

Stary Browar

IBB Andersia

GardenBoutique Hotel

Puro Hotel

PortaPosnania

Kolejka Maltanka

Włoski

MeridianCitadel Park

MelodyRosemary’s

Explorer

JordanBridge

A2 HIGHWAY

MalteseBaths


IndexStreet Register23 Lutego B/C-1

27 Grudnia B-2

3 Maja B-1/2

Al. Armii Poznań G-1/2

Al. Cytadelowiczów G-1

Al. Marcinkowskiego C-1/2

Al. Niepodległości A-1/3

Al. Republik H-1

Al. Wielkopolska E-1/F-2

Barzyńskiego E/F-2

Bastionowa G-1

Berdychowo I-4

Bnińska K-2/3

Bolesława Krzywoustego

H/I-5

Brandstaettera H-1

Bukowska E-3/4

Bydgoska J-2/3

Cegielskiego H-4

Chopina F-2/3

Chwiałkowskiego F/G-5

Cicha F/G-2

Czartoria H/I-3

Długa C/D-3

Dominikańska D-1

Dożynkowa G-1

Droga Dębińska H-5

Drzewna F-4/5

Drzymały E/F-1

Dworcowa E/F-4

Działowa G-2

Działyńskich B-1

Dziekańska I-2/3

Ewangelicka H-3/H/I-4

Filipińska I/J-3

Franciszkańska C-2

Fredry A-1/2

Gajowa E-3

Garbary D-1/2

Garncarska A-2

gen. Dąbrowskiego E-3

gen. Maczka F-1

Głogowska E-4/5

Główna J-1/2/K-1

Gołębia C/D-2

Góra Przemysła C-1/2

Górna Wilda F/G-5

Graniczna E-5

Grobla D-2

Grochowe Łąki G-2/3

Grudzieniec E/F-2

Grunwaldzka E-3/4

Gwarna A-2

Infl ancka K-5

Jana Pawła II I-4/5/J-3/4

Jaskółcza C-2

Jeżycka E-2

Kaliska J-4

Kanałowa E-5

Kantaka B-2

kard. Wyszyńskiego I-3

Katowicka J-4/5

Kazimierza Wielkiego H-4

Klasztorna D-2

Kochanowskiego E-2/3

Kopernika G-4

Koronkarska J-2

Kościuszki A/B-1/2/3

Kozia C/D-2

Kórnicka I-4/5/I/J-5

Krakowska G-4

Kramarska C/D-1

Krasińskiego E/F-3

Kraszewskiego E-3

Królowej Jadwigi G-4/5

Krysiewicza C-3

ks. Posadzego I-3

ks. Wujka F-5

Księcia Józefa G-2

Ku Cytadeli H-2

Kurpiowska F-2

Kurza Noga C-2

Kwiatowa G-4

Libelta A/B-1

Lubrańskiego I-2/3

Ludgardy C-2

Łady E-2

Łaskarza J-3

Łazienna H-3/4

Łąkowa G-4

Łucznicza I-5

Majakowskiego J/K-4

Małachowskiego J-2

Małe Garbary D-1

Małeckiego E-5

Małopolska E-1

Mansfelda E-2/3

Mariacka K-1

Masztalarska C-1

Mazowiecka E-1

Mączna E-2

Mickiewicza E-3

Mielżyńskiego B-1

Młyńska B-1

Mokra D-1

Mostowa D-2

Murna C-2

Muśnickiego D-3

Mylna E-2

Na Podgórniku G/H-2

Na Szańcach H/I-1

Nad Bogdanką E-2

Nad Wierzbakiem E-1

Niedziałkowskiego F/G-5

Noskowskiego F-2/3

Nowowiejskiego B-1/2

Ogrodowa C-3

Ostrów Tumski I-3

Ostrówek I-3

Owsiana F/G-1

Paderewskiego C-2

Panny Marii I-2/3

Pasaż Apollo G-4

Piaskowa H-3

Piastowska H-5

Piekary B-3

Pl. Andersa G-4

Pl. Wolności B/C-2

Podgórna C/D-2/3

Podolska E-1

Podwale J-2/3

Powstańców

Wielkopolskich A-3

Poznańska E-2

Północna H-2

Półwiejska C-3

Prużańska K-5

Przemysłowa F-5

Przepadek G-2

Przystań I-4

Pszenna G-1

Pułaskiego F-2

Ratajczaka B-2/3

Ratuszowa C-2

Roosevelta E/F-3

Rybaki C-3

Rynkowa C-1/2

Serafi tek I-4/5

Sienkiewicza E-3

Sieroca C-2

Składowa A-3

Skośna F-3

Sochaczewska F-1

Sokoła E-1

Solna G-3

Sowia J-5

Spadzista G-5

Stary Rynek C/D-2

Stawna D-1

Strusia E-5

Strzałkowskiego E-2/3

Strzałowa C-3

Strzelecka C-3

Szelągowska I-1

Szewska D-1

Szkolna C-2

Szymańskiego C-3

Śląska E-1

Ślusarska D-2

Śródka I/J-3

św. Czesława F/G-5

św. Jacka I-3

św. Marcin A/B-2/3

św. Marii Magdaleny D-3

św. Michała J/K-3

św. Wawrzyńca E-2

św. Wojciech G-3

Święcickiego E-4

Świętojańska J-3

Świętosławska D-2

Święty Marcin F/G-3

Taczaka A/B-3

Taylora A-2/3

Topolowa H/I-3

Warszawska J-3

Wąska E-2

Wenecjańska H-3

Weteranów I-5

Wielka D-2

Wieniawskiego A-1

Wierzbięcice F-5

Wierzbowa H-4

Wieżowa I-3

Winogrady G-1

Wodna D-2

Wojska Polskiego E-1

Wolnica C-1

Wołyńska E-1

Woźna D-2

Wrocławska C-2

Wroniecka D-1

Wszystkich Świętych D-3

Wysoka B/C-3

Za Bramką D-3

Za Cytadelą G/H-1

Zachodnia E-4/5

Zagórze I-3

Zamkowa C-1

Zdrojowa K-3

Zeylanda E-3

Zielona D-3

Żniwna G-1

Żydowska D-1

3 Kolory 27

Academic Pub 8

Adrenaline Alpine Coaster

77

Antykwariat Naukowy 79

Apartamenty Velvet 88

Apetyt 30

Archdiocese Museum

55, 61

Archeological Museum 55

Atmosfera 47

Bar a Boo 8

Basilium 43, 79

Bazar 1838 36

Billaboom Billiards Club 74

Bistro Friendly Food 27

Blow Up Hall 5050

27, 43, 84

Blueberry bar 47

Blue Note Jazz Club 43

British Military Cemetery 66

Brovaria 28, 40, 44, 85

Browar Pub 44

Cactus Factoria 34

Cafe Misja 40

Campanile 87

Capital Apartments 88

Casa de Vinos 44

Cathedral 52

Cepelia 80

Ceramika Bolesławiecka 80

CHMIELNIK 44

Chwirot 39

City Guide Poznań 53

City Information Centre 53

City Park Hotel &

Residence 84

Classic 25

Coco Boutique 79

Concordia Taste 28

Corner Pub / Colloquium

Club 8

Cuba Libre 47

Czekolada 48

Czerwona Papryka 38

Dąbrowskiego 42 28

Dark Restaurant 26

Deep Go Go 47

Delicja 28

Donatello 32

Don Prestige 85

Explorer Hostel 89

FACTORY Outlet 80

Falstart 44

Farma 40

Fast Wok 39

Fidelio 32

Figaro 32

Fiszka 8

Flavoria 28

Former Phillipine

Congregation House 63

Fusion Hostel 89

Fusion Restaurant 26, 40

Galeria Malta 80

Galeria Yes 79

Garden Boutique Hotel 87

Genius Loci Archeological

Park 61

Gniezno Archdiocese

Museum 70

Gniezno Cathedral 71

Goko 33

Gold 88

Gospoda Poznańska 36

Green Hotel 89

Green Way 39

Harmonia SPA 75

Headless Figures 67

Hipolit Cegielski 53

Historical Museum of

Poznań 55

Holy Trinity Church 71

Hotel 222 87

Hotel ForZa 87

Hotel Kolegiacki 85

Hotel Korel 87

Hotel Księcia Józefa 87

Hotel Poznański 87

Hotel Ramka 88

Hotel Regatta 85

Hotel Rezydencja Solei

R&C 87

HP Park 85

Hugo 29

Hygieia 53

IBB Andersia Hotel 84

Ibis 87

Ikar 87

Jordan Bridge 63

Juice Drinkers 40

Kawiarnia Nocna Kisielice 7

Klub Galeria Shisha 7

Kriek Belgian Pub & Cafe 45

KulTour.pl 53

KURO by Panamo 33

Kyokai Sushi Bar 33

La Guitarra 89

La Rambla Tapas Bar i Vino

44

Lavenda Caffe Drinks Food

40

Lech 87

Lech Poznań Official Shop

80

Le Palais du Jardin 25

Lesser Basilica of St.

Stanislaus 52

Le Targ 29

Literary Museum of

Henryk Sienkiewicz 56

Ludwiku do Rondla 34

Malta Skating Rink 77

Malta Ski 77

Malta Ski Equipment

Rental 77

Maltese Baths 77

Mat's 85

Mavi Kuş 39

Melody Gentlemen's Club

47

Melody Hostel 89

Mercure Poznań Centrum

85

Meridian 87

Mielżynski Wine Bar 44

Milano Ristorante 32

Minister CAFE 41

Ministerstwo Browaru 45

MK Bowling 74

© Patrycja Silna; courtesy of City of Poznań


Index

FEATURES INDEX

Breakfast 40

Currency exchange 82

Dark Restaurant 26

Decoding the Menu 28

Disco POLO! 48

Facts & Figures 14

Have Your Say 41

Hotel Calculator 88

Language Smarts 15

Lech Visitors Centre 58

Market Values 14

Milk Bars 30

Polish Food 35

Polish Vodka 43

Poznań Tourist Card 86

The Bambergers 16

The Imperial Castle 57

The Old Town Hall 55

The Old Town Square 52

The Piasts 17

The Royal Castle 56

Tipping Tribulations 28

ul. Taczaka Pub Crawl 6

Useful Transport Apps 11

Wine Bars 44

World War II Poznan 54

Młyńskie Koło 36, 88

Models of Poznań 59

Mollini 32

Monument of the 15th

Poznań Lancers Regiment

53

Monument of the Polish

Underground State &

Home Army 54

Monument to the Heroes

of the Poznan Citadel 67

Monument to the Victims

of Katyń & Siberia 54

Mrowisko 45

Museum of Armaments

56, 67

Musical Instruments

Museum 56

National Museum 57

NH Poznań 84

Novotel Poznań Centrum

85

Novotel Poznań Malta 86

Nowa Bażanciarnia 36

Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem 36

Okrąglak 59

Pacha 48

Paintball Fort Dębiec 74

Petit Paris Boulangerie

40, 41

Pharmaceutical Museum

57

Piano Bar 45

Piano Bar Restaurant &

Cafe 33

Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 45

Platinum Palace

Apartments 88

Platinum Palace Residence

86

Poco Loco Hostel 89

Pod Arkadami 30

Pomarańczarnia 88

Porta Posnania Interactive

Heritage Centre of

Cathedral Island 60, 63

Poznań Army Museum

57, 67

Poznan Bamber Museum

57

Poznań Cathedral 61

Poznan City Center 80

Poznań Indoor Karting 74

Pracownia 26

Proletaryat 46

Przy Bamberce 37

Przysmak 30

Quality System - Hotel

Poznań 88

Racja Mięsa 37

Ratuszova 37

Reformist Monastery 64

Republika Róż 40, 41

Restauracja Mamasitas 8

Restauracja MUGA 29

Restauracja u Myśliwych 30

Rezydencja Solei B&B 88

Rosemary's Hostel 89

Royal 86

Rozlewnia 7

Rzymski 88

Salon Posnania 80

ShaDes 26

Sheraton Poznan Hotel 84

Shivaz 26

Sleep In Hostel 89

Słodkie Czary Mary 79

Soda Hostel & Apartments

89

SomePlace Else 25, 46

SPOT. 30

SQ 48

St. Adalbert's Church 52

Stajnia Cztery Kopyta 75

Stare Miasto 86

Stary Browar Shopping

Mall 80

Stary Marych 54

St. John of Jerusalem

Church Outside the Wall 64

St. Joseph's Sanctuary 52

St. Kazimierz Church 63

St. Margaret's Church 63

Świat Bursztynu 79

Taczaka 20 41

Taj India 27

Tanki Pub 7

Tartak 8

Thai-Land Massage 75

Thai Smile Massage 75

The Bell of Peace and

Friendship Among Nations

67

The Dubliner 46

The Mexican 34

The Museum of the

Origins of the Polish State

70

The New Zoo 77

Topaz 88

Tour Guide Services 53

Tourist Information Centre

53

Twardowski 86

Van Diesel 48

Very Berry Hostel 89

Villa Atelier 88

Vine Bridge 30

Vivaldi 86

Warto nad Wartą 38

Weranda Lunch & Wine 30

Whiskey in the Jar 46

Wiejskie Jadło 38

Wielkopolska Martyrs

Museum 58

Wielkopolska Military

Museum 58

Wielkopolska Uprising

Monument 68

Wielkopolska Uprising

Museum 58, 68

W. Kruk 79

Yeżyce Kuchnia 38

Zielona Weranda 41

Zindo Sushi Korean -

Japanese Restaurant 34

Żółty Balonik 8

BIGGEST SHOPPING IN THE CITY200 stores 30 restaurants 1 500 parking spaces - 1h free

poznan in your pocket

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