protein in handcrafted soap
TRANSCRIPT
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Protein in Handcrafted Soap
Kevin M. Dunn
Spring 2014
$Revision: 1.4 $
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2
Acknowledgements
• Mike Lawson/Columbus Foods
• Hampden-Sydney College
• Lee Ayescue
• Alan Fish
• Ben Jenkins
• Josh Isaacs
• Hakeem Mohammed
• Taylor Redmond
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Things People Add to Soap
• Colorants
• Essential Oils, Fragrance Oils
• Exfolients (Pumice, Oatmeal)
• Sugar, Honey
• Lavender Buds, Rosebuds
• Jojoba, Cetyl Alcohol
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Things People Add to Soap
• Colorants
• Essential Oils, Fragrance Oils
• Exfolients (Pumice, Oatmeal)
• Sugar, Honey
• Lavender Buds, Rosebuds
• Jojoba, Cetyl Alcohol
• Milk (Particularly Goat’s Milk)
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Things People Add to Soap
• Colorants
• Essential Oils, Fragrance Oils
• Exfolients (Pumice, Oatmeal)
• Sugar, Honey
• Lavender Buds, Rosebuds
• Jojoba, Cetyl Alcohol
• Milk (Particularly Goat’s Milk)
• Silk (Various Grades)
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What is Milk?
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What is Milk?
• Water (218.4 g per 8 fluid ounces)
• Sugars (10.8 g per 8 fluid ounces)
• Protein (8.5 g per 8 fluid ounces)
• Fats (7.2 g per 8 fluid ounces)
Meyenberg Whole Goat Milk
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What is Milk?
• Water (89%)
• Sugars (4%)
• Protein (3%)
• Fats (3%)
Meyenberg Whole Goat Milk
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What is Milk?
• Water
• Sugars (Mostly Lactose)
• Protein (Mostly Casein)
• Fats (Mostly Small Saturated Fats)
Meyenberg Whole Goat Milk
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What is Silk?
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What is Silk?
• Protein (Mostly Fibroin)
• “Silk Protein,” “Silk Peptides,” “Silk Amino Acids”
wikipedia.org/wiki/Silk
Silk products were purchased from New Directions Aromatics.
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Questions I Am Not Qualified to
Address
• Do silk/milk soaps moisturize dry skin?
• Do they treat excema?
• Do they treat psoriasis?
• Do they treat acne?
• Do they remove dead skin cells?
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Questions I Am Not Qualified to
Address
• Do silk/milk soaps reduce wrinkles?
• Do they repair damaged skin?
• Do they nourish the skin with vitamins?
• Do they prevent skin cancer?
• Are they “better” than other soaps?
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Questions I Am Qualified to Address
• Does lactose react with lye?
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Questions I Am Qualified to Address
• Does lactose react with lye?
• Do casein and fibroin react with lye?
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Questions I Am Qualified to Address
• Does lactose react with lye?
• Do casein and fibroin react with lye?
• Do the capric milk fats react with lye?
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Questions I Am Qualified to Address
• Does lactose react with lye?
• Do casein and fibroin react with lye?
• Do the capric milk fats react with lye?
• What is the saponification value of goat’s milk?
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Background Chemistry
Background Chemistry
Oil and water don’t mix.
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Background Chemistry
Oil and Water
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Background Chemistry
Nerds and Cheerleaders
Lipophilic
Hydrophilic
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Oil, Lye and and Soap
Oil and Lye
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Oil, Lye and and Soap
One Soap
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Oil, Lye and and Soap
Two Soaps
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Oil, Lye and and Soap
Three Soaps and a Glycerin
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Oil, Lye and and Soap
Soap: A Nerdy Cheerleader
Amphiphilic
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Oil, Lye and and Soap
Soap + H+ = Fatty Acid
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Oil, Lye and and Soap
Saturated Fatty Acids
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Oil, Lye and and Soap
Unsaturated Fatty Acids
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Oil, Lye and and Soap
Fatty Acids from Goat’s Milk
Capric Acid
Caprylic Acid
Caproic Acid
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Protein
Amino Acid
Alanine, one of twenty-three amino acids
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Protein
Dipeptide
Two alanine molecules hooked together
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Protein
Tripeptide
Three alanine molecules hooked together
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Protein
Casein Micelle
Proteins such as casein (milk) and fibroin (silk) consist of thou-
sands of amino acid "residues."
Image source: ag.tennessee.edu/news/Pages/3T-08harte-13.aspx
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Sugar
Lactose
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Condensation vs Hydrolysis
• Condensation: small molecules join to make large ones
• Hydrolysis: large molecules are split into small ones
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Condensation vs Hydrolysis
• Condensation: amino acids become proteins; fatty acids become
fats
• Hydrolysis: proteins become amino acids; fats become fatty
acids
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Solution vs Suspension
• Solution: transparent (wine, apple juice, honey)
• Suspension: milky or cloudy (milk, blood, dishwater)
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Solution vs Suspension
• Solution: small, hydrophylic molecules (sugars, amino acids)
• Suspension: large, hydrophobic molecules (fats, proteins)
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Terms to Keep Straight
• Fat vs Fatty Acid vs Soap
• Protein vs Amino Acid
• Lactose
• Condensation vs Hydrolysis
• Solution vs Suspension
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Question 1
Questions I Am Qualified to Address
• Does lactose react with lye?
• Do casein and fibroin react with lye?
• Do the capric milk fats react with lye?
• What is the saponification value of goat’s milk?
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Question 1
Does Lactose React with Lye?
• Centrifugation of Milk
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Question 1
Does Lactose React with Lye?
• Centrifugation of Milk
• Top Layer Mostly Fat
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Question 1
Does Lactose React with Lye?
• Centrifugation of Milk
• Top Layer Mostly Fat
• Bottom Layer Mostly Protein
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Question 1
Does Lactose React with Lye?
• Centrifugation of Milk
• Top Layer Mostly Fat
• Bottom Layer Mostly Protein
• Middle Layer Sugar/Water
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Question 1
Does Lactose React with Lye?
• Middle Layer is Colorless and Transparent
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Question 1
Does Lactose React with Lye?
• Middle Layer is Colorless and Transparent
• Turns Transparent Orange/Brown When Lye is Added
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Question 1
Does Lactose React with Lye?
• Middle Layer is Colorless and Transparent
• Turns Transparent Orange/Brown When Lye is Added
• Lactose from Aldrich Chemical Forms Colorless Transparent
Solution
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Question 1
Does Lactose React with Lye?
• Middle Layer is Colorless and Transparent
• Turns Transparent Orange/Brown When Lye is Added
• Lactose from Aldrich Chemical Forms Colorless Transparent
Solution
• Turns Transparent Orange/Brown when Lye is Added
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Question 1
Does Lactose React with Lye?
• Yes
• Lactose browns in minutes when it reacts with lye, the result
either of caramelization or the Maillard reaction. This is likely
responsibility for the color of goat milk soap.
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Question 2
Questions I Am Qualified to Address
• Does lactose react with lye? Yes
• Do casein and fibroin react with lye?
• Do the capric milk fats react with lye?
• What is the saponification value of goat’s milk?
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Question 2
Does Casein React with Lye?
• Centrifugation of Milk
• Bottom layer is mostly protein.
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Question 2
Does Casein React with Lye?
• Centrifugation of Milk
• Bottom layer is mostly protein.
• Bottom layer curdles when lye is added.
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Question 2
Does Casein React with Lye?
• Centrifugation of Milk
• Bottom layer is mostly protein.
• Bottom layer curdles when lye is added.
• Bottom layer does not dissolve in lye.
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Question 2
Does Fibroin React with Lye?
• Silk amino acid forms transparent solution in water.
• Silk amino acid remains transparent when lye is added.
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Question 2
Does Fibroin React with Lye?
• Silk amino acid forms transparent solution in water.
• Silk amino acid remains transparent when lye is added.
• Silk peptide forms translucent suspension in water.
• Silk peptide remains translucent when lye is added.
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Question 2
Does Fibroin React with Lye?
• Silk amino acid forms transparent solution in water.
• Silk amino acid remains transparent when lye is added.
• Silk peptide forms translucent suspension in water.
• Silk peptide remains translucent when lye is added.
• Silk powder forms milky suspension in water.
• Silk powder remains milky when lye is added, even after
months.
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Question 2
Do casein and fibroin react with lye?
• Not much.
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Question 2
Do casein and fibroin react with lye?
• Not much.
• Milk protein curdles, indicating that there is some change in its
molecular structure, but it does not hydrolyse into amino acids.
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Question 2
Do casein and fibroin react with lye?
• Not much.
• Milk protein curdles, indicating that there is some change in its
molecular structure, but it does not hydrolyse into amino acids.
• Silk powder does not visibly react with lye, even over a period
of months.
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Question 3
Questions I Am Qualified to Address
• Does lactose react with lye? Yes.
• Do casein and fibroin react with lye? Not much.
• Do the capric milk fats react with lye?
• What is the saponification value of goat’s milk?
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Question 3
Do the Capric Milk Fats React with
Lye?
• Centrifugation of Milk
• Top layer is mostly fat.
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Question 3
Do the Capric Milk Fats React with
Lye?
• Centrifugation of Milk
• Top layer is mostly fat.
• Top layer reacts with lye.
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Question 3
Do the Capric Milk Fats React with
Lye?
• Centrifugation of Milk
• Top layer is mostly fat.
• Top layer reacts with lye.
• The product produces suds when shaken with water.
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Question 3
Do the Capric Milk Fats React with
Lye?
• Yes.
• Capric fats react with lye as expected, and become soap.
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Question 4
Questions I Am Qualified to Address
• Does lactose react with lye? Yes, it turns brown.
• Do casein and fibroin react with lye? If they do, they do not
hydrolyse to amino acids.
• Do the capric milk fats react with lye? Yes, they turn to soap.
• What is the saponification value of goat’s milk?
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Question 4
What is the Saponification Value of
Goat’s Milk?
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Question 4
What is the Saponification Value of
Goat’s Milk?
• Boil a weighed amount of oil in 6% KOH in ethanol for an hour.
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Question 4
What is the Saponification Value of
Goat’s Milk?
• Boil a weighed amount of oil in 6% KOH in ethanol for an hour.
• Add 4-5 drops 1% phenolphthalein. The solution turns pink.
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Question 4
What is the Saponification Value of
Goat’s Milk?
• Boil a weighed amount of oil in 6% KOH in ethanol for an hour.
• Add 4-5 drops 1% phenolphthalein. The solution turns pink.
• Add 500 ppt citric acid solution until pink color disappears.
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Question 4
What is the Saponification Value of
Goat’s Milk?
• Boil a weighed amount of oil in 6% KOH in ethanol for an hour.
• Add 4-5 drops 1% phenolphthalein. The solution turns pink.
• Add 500 ppt citric acid solution until pink color disappears.
• From the weight of the oil and the weight of the citric acid, the
saponification value may be calculated.
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Question 4
What is the Saponification Value of
Goat’s Milk?
mg NaOH/g mg KOH/g
Coconut Oil 182 255
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Question 4
What is the Saponification Value of
Goat’s Milk?
mg NaOH/g mg KOH/g
Coconut Oil 182 255Evaporated Goat’s
Milk
47 66
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Question 4
What is the Saponification Value of
Goat’s Milk?
mg NaOH/g mg KOH/g
Coconut Oil 182 255Evaporated Goat’s
Milk
47 66
Reconstituted
Evaporated Goat’s
Milk
23 33
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Question 4
So What?
• 100 g coconut oil requires 18.2 g NaOH for complete saponifica-
tion.
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Question 4
So What?
• 100 g coconut oil requires 18.2 g NaOH for complete saponifica-
tion.
• 36.4 g reconstituted goat’s milk would make a 33% lye solution.
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Question 4
So What?
• 100 g coconut oil requires 18.2 g NaOH for complete saponifica-
tion.
• 36.4 g reconstituted goat’s milk would make a 33% lye solution.
• That milk will consume 0.8 g NaOH.
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Question 4
So What?
• 100 g coconut oil requires 18.2 g NaOH for complete saponifica-
tion.
• 36.4 g reconstituted goat’s milk would make a 33% lye solution.
• That milk will consume 0.8 g NaOH.
• This constitutes a 4% lye discount.
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Question 4
So What?
• 100 g coconut oil requires 18.2 g NaOH for complete saponifica-
tion.
• 36.4 g reconstituted goat’s milk would make a 33% lye solution.
• That milk will consume 0.8 g NaOH.
• This constitutes a 4% lye discount.
• For an oil blend, the discount would be about 6%.
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Question 4
So What?
• For test soaps, I used 100 g coconut oil, 19.1 g NaOH, 18.3 g
evaporated goat’s milk (EGM), and 19.1 g water.
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Question 4
So What?
• For test soaps, I used 100 g coconut oil, 19.1 g NaOH, 18.3 g
evaporated goat’s milk (EGM), and 19.1 g water.
• This constitutes a 0% lye discount, including the milk.
• A) NaOH added to frozen reconstituted milk
• B) NaOH added to reconstituted milk at room temperature
• G) EGM mixed with oil; NaOH mixed with water; both com-
bined at room temperature
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Scientific Soapmaking
Questions I Am Qualified to Address
• Does lactose react with lye? Yes, it turns brown.
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Scientific Soapmaking
Questions I Am Qualified to Address
• Does lactose react with lye? Yes, it turns brown.
• Do casein and fibroin react with lye? Not much.
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Scientific Soapmaking
Questions I Am Qualified to Address
• Does lactose react with lye? Yes, it turns brown.
• Do casein and fibroin react with lye? Not much.
• Do the capric milk fats react with lye? Yes, they turn to soap.
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Scientific Soapmaking
Questions I Am Qualified to Address
• Does lactose react with lye? Yes, it turns brown.
• Do casein and fibroin react with lye? Not much.
• Do the capric milk fats react with lye? Yes, they turn to soap.
• What is the saponification value of goat’s milk? It consumes 4%
to 6% of the lye in a typical soap.
![Page 90: Protein in Handcrafted Soap](https://reader031.vdocuments.net/reader031/viewer/2022022418/58a16c4a1a28abb5488b4b26/html5/thumbnails/90.jpg)
Scientific Soapmaking
Questions I Am Qualified to Address
• Does lactose react with lye? Yes, it turns brown.
• Do casein and fibroin react with lye? Not much.
• Do the capric milk fats react with lye? Yes, they turn to soap.
• What is the saponification value of goat’s milk? It consumes 4%
to 6% of the lye in a typical soap.
• If you use goat’s milk instead of water, you don’t need to dis-
count your lye further.
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Scientific Soapmaking
Questions
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Scientific Soapmaking
Scientific Soapmaking
These lecture slides are available at ScientificSoapmaking.com.
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Scientific Soapmaking
Scientific Soapmaking
Thanks to the HSCG for all the questions I could not have an-
swered 9 years ago.
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Scientific Soapmaking
Scientific Soapmaking
Thanks to the HSCG for all the questions I may be able to answer
in the coming years.